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THE TILE MUSEUM<br />

UNIQUE<br />

IN THE<br />

WORLD<br />

Start by taking the Santa Justa Elevator (1) up to the ruins of the Carmo Convent (2),<br />

destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. This is the only remaining example of early gothic<br />

architecture in Lisbon. Walk up Rua da Trindade, where you can see the impressive<br />

façade of the Trindade Theatre (3), then continue down the road to visit the two<br />

churches, Igreja do Loreto (4) and Igreja da Encarnação (5). Go down Rua Garrett to<br />

the church called Igreja dos Mártires (6) , then go by Lisbon’s opera house, the São<br />

Carlos Theatre (7), and visit the Chiado Museum (8), in Rua Serpa Pinto. Go down the<br />

winding Calçada do Ferragial that takes you to the 17th cent. Corpo Santo Church<br />

(9) then turn left onto Rua do Arsenal, leading to Praça do Município (10), and the<br />

Lisbon Town Hall, built in 1774. Two blocks east lies one of Europe’s outstanding <strong>city</strong><br />

squares, the 18th cent. Praça do Comércio (11). From the SE corner of the square,<br />

in front of the ferry terminal (12), where you can take a river tour, go east to the<br />

Campo das Cebolas, where the odd Casa dos Bicos (13) stands. Now go back along<br />

Rua da Alfândega, where you’ll find the ornate Manueline façade of the church of<br />

Nossa Senhora da Conceição (14). Stop off for lunch, or a ‘bica’, a little cup of aromatic<br />

black coffee, in the 200 year old Café Martinho d’Arcada, a favourite haunt of the<br />

WALKS<br />

poet Fernando Pessoa, then pass under the great neo-classical archway called Arco<br />

da Vitória (15), where the pedestrian mall, Rua Augusta (16) begins, and take in the<br />

cosmopolitan buzz of one of Lisbon’s main shopping hubs. At the top is Praça D.<br />

Pedro IV, the square known to Lisboners as Rossio. Turn right off the NE corner of<br />

the square to the church of S. Domingos (17), founded in 1241, and reconstructed<br />

after the 1755 earthquake. Turn back to where Portugal’s National Theatre, the neoclassical<br />

Teatro Nacional D. Maria II (18), built 1842, stands at the north end of Rossio.<br />

From here, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão takes you to the Palácio da Independência<br />

(19) and Praça dos Restauradores (20). On the opposite side of this square are the<br />

Palácio Foz (21), the neo-Manueline Rossio railway station, and the Glória Funicular<br />

(22), which takes you up to the Bairro Alto, with its narrow streets and bohemian<br />

nightlife. As an alternative to the funicular, go back down through Rossio (23) and<br />

walk up Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, the streets that make up the earth of Chiado.<br />

An old quarter dear to Lisboners, the Chiado (24) suffered a serious fire in 1988 and<br />

has now been reconstructed following a master plan drawn up by leading Portuguese<br />

architect, Álvaro Siza Vieira.<br />

38 _<br />

39

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