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TURISMO DE LISBOA<br />
Rua do Arsenal, nº15<br />
1100-038 Lisboa<br />
T: (+351) 21 031 27 00<br />
F: (+351) 21 031 28 99<br />
E: atl@atl-turismo<strong>lisboa</strong>.pt<br />
W: www.visit<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
<strong>lisboa</strong> <strong>city</strong><br />
MY OWN<br />
LISBOA<br />
INTERVIEW<br />
MAFALDA ARNAUTH<br />
THE VOICE OF FADO<br />
WALKS<br />
IN THE SHADOW<br />
OF LISBOA’S<br />
SUNDIALS<br />
DESIGN<br />
<strong>lisboa</strong> <strong>city</strong><br />
EXPERIMENTADESIGN<br />
BIENNIAL RETURNS<br />
TO LISBOA<br />
ART THEATRE DANCE MUSIC NIGHT ART THEATRE DANCE MUSIC NIGHT
INDEX<br />
MY OWN LISBOA<br />
The magazine-guide for visitors to Lisboa<br />
Nº 1<br />
OWNED BY<br />
Turismo de Lisboa<br />
Rua do Arsenal, 15 - 1100-038 Lisboa<br />
T: +351 210 312 700; F: +351 210 312 899<br />
E: atl@atl-turismo<strong>lisboa</strong>.pt<br />
www.visit<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
DIRECTOR<br />
Paula Oliveira<br />
EDITOR<br />
Edifício Lisboa Oriente, Av. Infante D. Henrique,<br />
333H, Esc. 49 - 1800-282 Lisboa<br />
T: +351 21 850 81 10; F: +351 21 853 04 26<br />
E: lpmcom@lpmcom.pt<br />
DESIGN AND ARTWORK<br />
Euro RSCG Design & Arquitectura<br />
PRINTING<br />
Sogapal<br />
100.000 copies<br />
portuguese, spanish, english, french, german,<br />
italian - Registration nº 231744/05<br />
5<br />
ESPLANADES<br />
With its mild climate the whole<br />
year round, Lisboa’s esplanades<br />
are an open window onto the<br />
<strong>city</strong>.<br />
9<br />
INTERVIEW<br />
Mafalda Arnauth was “captured”<br />
by Fado and, in just a few years,<br />
her extraordinary voice and the<br />
poetry she writes have made a<br />
decisive contribution to the<br />
new wave that is sweeping the<br />
so called Portuguese national<br />
song.<br />
16<br />
THE LUSITANO<br />
HORSE<br />
Every week, a display of horses<br />
in Haute École (classical<br />
dressage) takes place in the<br />
grandiose setting of the Queluz<br />
Palace and Gardens.<br />
HOTEL<br />
APARTMENTS<br />
APARTHOTEL VIP EDEN<br />
Pç. dos Restauradores, 24<br />
1250-187 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 216 600<br />
F: +351 213 216 666<br />
E: aparthoteleden@viphotels.com<br />
W: www.viphotes.com<br />
HOTEL PESTANA CASCAIS<br />
Av. Manuel Júlio Carvalho e Costa,<br />
115<br />
2754-518 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 825 900<br />
F: +351 214 825 977<br />
E: pestana.cascais@pestana.com<br />
W: www.pestana.com<br />
REAL RESIDÊNCIA<br />
R. Ramalho Ortigão, 41<br />
1070-228 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 822 900<br />
F: +351 213 822 930<br />
E: info@hoteisrela.com<br />
W: www.hoteisreal.com<br />
SOLPLAY HOTEL DE<br />
APARTAMENTOS<br />
R. Manuel da Silva Gago, 2<br />
2795-132 LINDA-A-VELHA<br />
T: +351 210 066 000<br />
F: +351 210 066 199<br />
E: infohotel@solplay.pt<br />
W: www.solplay.pt/hotel<br />
TOURIST<br />
VILLAGES<br />
VILA BICUDA<br />
Vila Bicuda - Escritório<br />
R. dos Faisões<br />
2750-689 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 860 200<br />
F: +351 214 860 229<br />
E: info@vilabicuda.com<br />
W: www.vilabicuda.com<br />
TURISMO DE<br />
HABITAÇÃO<br />
(MANOR<br />
HOUSES) AND<br />
TURISMO NO<br />
ESPAÇO RURAL<br />
(RUSTIC<br />
HOUSES)<br />
CASA DA QUINTA NOVA DA<br />
CONCEIÇÃO<br />
R. Cidade de Rabat, 5<br />
1500-158 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 780 091<br />
F: +351 217 724 765<br />
E: qtnovaconceicao@netcabo.pt<br />
QUINTA DE SANTO ANTÓNIO DE<br />
BOLONHA<br />
Av. Dom Eduardo Veiga de Araújo,<br />
Apartado 43<br />
2625-055 PÓVOA DE SANTA IRIA<br />
T: +351 219 597 996<br />
F: +351 219 530 376<br />
E: qsabtr@hotmail.com<br />
W: www.portugalinsite.pt<br />
BED AND<br />
BREAKFASTS<br />
ALBERGARIA CHILLE<br />
R. António Pedro, 40<br />
1000-039 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 549 171<br />
F: +351 213 530 637<br />
E: albergaria.chille@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.albergariadochille.com<br />
ALBERGARIA RESIDENCIAL<br />
INSULANA<br />
R. da Assunção, 52<br />
1100-044 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 427 625<br />
F: +351 213 428 924<br />
E: insulana@netc.pt<br />
W: www.insulanacjb.net<br />
ALBERGARIA S. LOURENÇO<br />
Est. Nacional 10/10-5 Porto Alto<br />
2135-115 SAMORA CORREIA<br />
T: +351 263 654 447<br />
F: +351 263 654 694<br />
E: s.lourenco@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.hotelslourenco.com<br />
HOSPEDARIA JARDIM DA<br />
AMADORA<br />
Lg. Major Humberto da Cruz, 3<br />
2700-545 AMADORA<br />
T: +351 214 943 109<br />
F: +351 214 947 907<br />
E: jardim-amadora@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.jardimdaamadora.com<br />
PENSÃO CASAL RIBEIRO<br />
R. Braancamp, 10 R/C Dto<br />
1250-050 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 860 067<br />
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL CANADÁ<br />
Av. Defensores de Chaves,35<br />
1000-111 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 513 480<br />
F: +351 213 542 922<br />
E: vitor@residencial-canada.com<br />
W: www.residencial-canada.com<br />
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL CARAVELA<br />
R. Ferreira Lapa, 38<br />
1150-159 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 539 011<br />
F: +351 213 571 751<br />
E: residencial_caravela@sapo.pt<br />
W: http://caravela.do.sapo.pt<br />
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL ESTORIL<br />
LISBOA<br />
Av. João XXI, 6 - 2º<br />
1000-301 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 485 636<br />
F: +351 218 451 066<br />
E: pensao-estoril@netcabo.pt<br />
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL GERÊS<br />
Cç. do Garcia,6 - 1º e 2º<br />
1150-168 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 810 497<br />
F: +351 218 882 006<br />
E: info@pensaogeres.com<br />
W: www.pensaogeres.com<br />
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL PORTUENSE<br />
R. DAS Portas de Santo Antão, 149-<br />
157<br />
1150-267 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 464 197<br />
F: +351 424 239<br />
E: rportuense@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.pensaoportuense.com<br />
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL PRINCESA<br />
R. Gomes Freire, 130<br />
1150-180 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 193 070<br />
F: +351 213 193 079<br />
E: info@residencial-princesa.pt<br />
W: www.residencial-princesa.pt<br />
PENSÃO RESIDENCIAL TERMINUS<br />
Av. Almirante Gago Coutinho, 153<br />
1700-029 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 491 106<br />
F: +351 218 491 107<br />
RESIDÊNCIA AVENIDA PARK<br />
Av. Sidónio Pais,6<br />
1050-214 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 532 181<br />
F: +351 213 532 185<br />
E: info@avenidapark.com<br />
W: www.avenidapark.com<br />
RESIDÊNCIA MAR DOS AÇORES<br />
Av. Bernardim Ribeiro, 14<br />
1150-071 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 577 085<br />
F: +351 213 530 638<br />
E: nori@netcabo.pt<br />
RESIDENCIAL AMERICANO<br />
R. 1º de Dezembro, 73<br />
1200-358 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 474 976<br />
F: +351 213 479 979<br />
E: info@hotelamericano.com<br />
W: www.hotelamericano.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL ASTÓRIA<br />
R. Braamcamp, 10<br />
1250-050 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 861 317<br />
F: +351 213 860 491<br />
E: hotel<strong>lisboa</strong>astoria@evidenciagrupo.com<br />
W: www.evidenciahoteis.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL BORGES<br />
R. Garrett, 108<br />
1200-205 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 461 951<br />
F: +351 213 426 617<br />
T: info@hotelborges.com<br />
W: www.hotelborges.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL DELTA<br />
R. Ilha do Pico, 3<br />
1000-169 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 521 300<br />
F: +351 213 557 891<br />
E: residencial.delta@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.maisturismo.pt/delta<br />
RESIDENCIAL DOM JOÃO<br />
R. José Estevão, 43<br />
1150-200 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 144 171<br />
F: +351 213 524 569<br />
RESIDENCIAL DOM SANCHO I<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 202<br />
1250-147 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 513 160<br />
F: +351 213 548 042<br />
E: dsancho@iol.pt<br />
W: www.domsancho.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL DUAS NAÇÕES<br />
R. da Vitória, 41<br />
1100-618 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 460 710<br />
F: +351 213 470 206<br />
E: info@duasnacoes.com<br />
W: www.duasnacoes.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL HORIZONTE<br />
Av. António Augusto Aguiar, 42<br />
1050-017 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 539 526<br />
F: +351 213 538 474<br />
E: residehorizonte@netcabo.pt<br />
W: www.hotelhorizonte.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL ITÁLIA<br />
Av. Visconde de Valmor, 67<br />
1050-239 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 611 490<br />
F: +351 217 611 499<br />
E: reservas@residencial-italia.com<br />
W: www.residencial-italia.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL JOÃO XXI<br />
R. Gomes Freire, 179<br />
1150-177 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 155 018<br />
F: +351 213 533 580<br />
E: admin@residencialjoaoxxi.com<br />
W: www.residencialjoaoxxi.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL LAR DO AREEIRO<br />
Pç. Francisco Sá Carneiro, 4<br />
1000-159 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 493 150<br />
F: +351 218 406 321<br />
E: info@residencialardoareeiro.com<br />
W: www.residencialardoareeiro.com<br />
RESIDENCIAL LUENA<br />
R. Pascoal de Melo,9<br />
1000-230 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 558 246<br />
F: +351 213 543 456<br />
E: rluena@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.pensaoresidencialluena.pt<br />
SOLAR DOS MOUROS<br />
R. Milagre de Santo António, 6<br />
1100-351 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 854 940<br />
F: +351 218 854 945<br />
E: reservations@solardosmouros.pt<br />
W: www.solardosmouros.pt<br />
ACCOMMODATION<br />
50 _<br />
51
3* HOTELS<br />
BEST WESTERN HOTEL DE TURISMO<br />
Lg. de Santo António<br />
2200-348 ABRANTES<br />
T: +351 241 361 261<br />
F: +351 241 365 218<br />
E: sales@hotelabrantes.pt<br />
W: www.hotelabrantes.pt<br />
BEST WESTERN HOTEL FLAMINGO<br />
R. Castilho,41<br />
1250-068 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 841 200<br />
F: +351 213 841 208<br />
E: hotelflamingo@netcabo.pt<br />
W: www.bestwestern.com/pt/hotelflamingo<br />
BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL<br />
EDUARDO VII<br />
Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 5<br />
1069-114 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 568 822<br />
F: +351 213 568 844<br />
E: sales@hoteleduardovii.pt<br />
W: www.hoteleduardovii.pt<br />
COMFORT HOTEL PRÍNCIPE<br />
Av. Duque de Ávila, 201<br />
1050-082 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 536 151<br />
F: +351 213 534 314<br />
E: comfortprincipe@esoterica.pt<br />
W: www.hotelprincipe<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
HOTEL A.S. LISBOA<br />
Av. Almirante Reis, 188<br />
1000-055 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 429 360<br />
F: +351 218 429 374<br />
E: info@hotel-as<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
W: www.hotel-as<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
HOTEL AL FOZ<br />
Av. Dom Manuel I<br />
2890-014 ALCOCHETE<br />
T: +351 212 341 179<br />
F: +351 212 341 190<br />
E: comercial@al-foz.pt<br />
W: www.al-foz.pt<br />
HOTEL ALMIRANTE<br />
Av. Almirante Reis, 68<br />
1150-020 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 168 000<br />
F:+351 218 168 001<br />
E: sales@hotelalmirante.pt<br />
W: www.hotelalmirante.pt<br />
HOTEL ARRIBAS<br />
Av. Alfredo Coelho - Praia Grande<br />
2705-329 COLARES<br />
T: +351 219 289 050<br />
F: +351 219 292 420<br />
E: hotel.arribas@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.hotelarribas.com<br />
HOTEL BAÍA<br />
Av. Marginal<br />
2754-509 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 831 033<br />
F: +351 214 831 095<br />
E: reservas@hotelbaia.com<br />
W: www.hotelbaia.com<br />
HOTEL BOTÂNICO<br />
R. da Mãe D'Água,16/20<br />
1250-156 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 420 392<br />
F: +351 213 420 125<br />
E: hotelbotanico@netcabo.pt<br />
W: www.hotelbotanico.net<br />
HOTEL CRISTAL<br />
R. de Leiria, 112/114 - Embra<br />
2430-091 MARINHA GRANDE<br />
T: +351 244 574 530<br />
F: +351 244 574531<br />
E: cristalmarinha@hoteiscristal.pt<br />
W: www.hoteiscristal.pt<br />
HOTEL DA TORRE<br />
R. dos Jerónimos, 8<br />
1400-211 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 619 940<br />
F: +351 213 619 946<br />
E: hoteldatorre.belem@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.maisturismo.pt/torre.htm<br />
HOTEL DOM CARLOS LIBERTY<br />
R. Alexandre Herculano, 13<br />
1150-005 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 173 570<br />
F: +351 213 530 272<br />
E: comercial@domcarloshoteis.com<br />
W: www.domcarloshoteis.com<br />
HOTEL DOM CARLOS PARK<br />
Av. Duque de Loulé,121<br />
1050-089 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 512 590<br />
F: +351 213 520 728<br />
E: direccao@domcarloshoteis.com<br />
W: www.domcarloshoteis.com<br />
HOTEL EXCELSIOR<br />
R. Rodrigues Samapio, 172<br />
1150-282 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 537 151<br />
F: +351 213 578 779<br />
E: hotelexcelsior279@hotmail.com<br />
W: www.hotel-excelsior.pt<br />
HOTEL EXPRESS BY HOLIDAY INN<br />
LISBON-OEIRAS<br />
Est. de Paço de Arcos à Pç. Sérgio<br />
Vieira de Melo<br />
2740-243 PORTO SALVO<br />
T: +351 214 232 040<br />
F: +351 214 232 041<br />
E: carmo.rei@nsl.pt<br />
W: www.hiexpress-lisbonoeiras.com<br />
HOTEL ISIDRO<br />
R. Prof. Augusto Gomes,3<br />
2910-123 SETÚBAL<br />
T: +351 265 535 099<br />
F: +351 265 535 118<br />
E: hotelisidro@mail.com<br />
W: www.maisturismo.pt/hisidro<br />
HOTEL JORGE V<br />
R. Mouzinho da Silveira, 3<br />
1250-165 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 562 525<br />
F: +351 213 150 319<br />
E: info@hoteljorgev.com<br />
W: www.hoteljorgev.com<br />
HOTEL LISBOA TEJO<br />
R. dos Condes de Monsanto, 2<br />
1100-159 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 866 182<br />
F: +351 218 865 163<br />
E: hotel<strong>lisboa</strong>tejo@evidenciagrupo.com<br />
W: www.hotel<strong>lisboa</strong>tejo.com<br />
HOTEL LONDRES<br />
Av. Fausto de Figueiredo, 17<br />
2765-412 ESTORIL<br />
T: +351 214 648 300<br />
F: +351 214 672 633<br />
E: portugal@hotelondres.com<br />
W: www.hotelondres.com<br />
HOTEL MARÉ<br />
R. Mouzinho de Albuquerque, 10<br />
2450-901 NAZARÉ<br />
T: +351 262 561 122<br />
F: +351 262 561 750<br />
E: hotel.mare@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.marehotel.com<br />
HOTEL MÉTROPOLE<br />
Pç. Dom Pedro IV, 30<br />
1100-200 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 219 030<br />
F: +351 213 469 166<br />
E: metropole@almeidahotels.com<br />
W: www.almeidahotels.com<br />
HOTEL MIRAPARQUE<br />
Av. Sidónio Pais, 12<br />
1050-214 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 524 286<br />
F: +351 213 578 920<br />
E: hotel@miraparque.com<br />
W: www.miraparque.com<br />
HOTEL NACIONAL<br />
R. Castilho, 34<br />
1250-070 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 554 433<br />
F: +351 213 561 122<br />
E: hotelnacional@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-nacional.com<br />
HOTEL NOVOTEL LISBOA<br />
Av. José Malhoa, Lt. 1642<br />
1099-051 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 244 800<br />
F: +351 217 244 801<br />
E: ho784@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.accorhotels.com<br />
HOTEL OLISSIPPO MARQUÊS DE SÁ<br />
Av. Miguel Bombarda, 130<br />
1050-167 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 911 014<br />
F: +351 217 936 983<br />
E: dmv@olissippohotels.com<br />
W: www.olissippohotels.com<br />
HOTEL ROMA<br />
Av. de Roma,33<br />
1749-074 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 932 244<br />
F: +351 217 932 981<br />
E: info@hotelroma.pt<br />
W: www.hotelroma.pt<br />
HOTEL TRAVEL PARK LISBOA<br />
Av. Almirante Reis, 64<br />
1150-020 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 102 100<br />
F: +351 218 102 199<br />
E: reservas@hoteltravelpark.com<br />
W: www.hoteltravelpark.com<br />
HOTEL VIP BERNA<br />
Av. António Serpa, 13<br />
1169-199 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 814 300<br />
F: +351 217 936 278<br />
E: hotelberna@viphotels.com<br />
W: www.viphotels.com/vip-berna.htm<br />
HOTEL VIP ZURIQUE<br />
R. Ivone Silva, 18<br />
1050-124 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 814 000<br />
F: +351 217 937 290<br />
E: hotelzurique@viphotels.com<br />
W: www.viphotels.com/vip-zurique.htm<br />
SANA CAPITOL HOTEL<br />
R. Eça de Queirós, 24<br />
1050-096 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 536 811<br />
F: +351 213 526 165<br />
E: sanacapitol@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SANA ESTORIL HOTEL<br />
Av. Marginal,7034<br />
2765-247 ESTORIL<br />
T: +351 214 670 322<br />
F: +351 214 671 171<br />
E: sanaestoril@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SANA EXECUTIVE HOTEL<br />
Av. Conde de Valbom, 56<br />
1050-069 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 951 157<br />
F: +351 217 951 166<br />
E: sanaexecutive@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SANA RENO HOTEL<br />
Av. Duque de Ávila, 195/197<br />
1050-082 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 135 000<br />
F: +351 213 135 001<br />
E: sanareno@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SANA REX HOTEL<br />
R. Castilho, 169<br />
1070-051 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 882 161<br />
F: +351 213 887 581<br />
E: sanarex@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
2* HOTELS<br />
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - SALDANHA<br />
Av. Casal Ribeiro, 23<br />
1000-090 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 191 690<br />
F: +351 213 191 699<br />
E: h2117@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.accorhotels.com<br />
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - JOSÉ MALHOA<br />
Av. José Malhoa,lt. H<br />
1070-158 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 235 700<br />
F: +351 217 235 701<br />
E: h1668@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.accorhotels.com<br />
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA - OEIRAS<br />
Área de Serviço da Auto-Estrada A5<br />
- Km 9,6<br />
2780-826 OEIRAS<br />
T: +351 214 216 215<br />
F: +351 214 217 039<br />
E: h1634@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.ibishotel.com<br />
HOTEL D. AFONSO HENRIQUES<br />
R. Cristovão Falcão,8<br />
1900-172 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 146 574<br />
F: +351 218 123 375<br />
E: h.afonso.henriques@mail.telepac.pt<br />
HOTEL IBIS LISBOA LIBERDADE<br />
R. Barata Salgueiro, 53<br />
1250-043 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 300 630<br />
F: +351 213 300 631<br />
E: h1337-gm@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.accorhotels.com<br />
HOTEL VIP<br />
R. Fernão Lopes, 25<br />
1000-132 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 568 600<br />
F: +351 213 158 773<br />
E: hotelvip@viphotels.com<br />
W: www.viphotels.com<br />
HOTEL VIP PRAIA DO SOL<br />
R. dos Pescadores, 12<br />
2825-386 COSTA DA CAPARICA<br />
T: +351 212 900 012<br />
F: +351 212 902 541<br />
E: hotelpraiadosol@viphotels.com<br />
W: www.viphotels.com<br />
HOTEL VIP MIRAMONTE<br />
Av. do Atlântico, 155<br />
2705-287 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 288 200<br />
F: +351 219 291 480<br />
E: hotelmiramonte@viphotels.com<br />
W: www.viphotels.com<br />
HOTEL INTERNACIONAL<br />
R. da Bestesga, 3<br />
1100-090 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 240 990<br />
F: +351 213 240 999<br />
E: geral@hotel-internacional.com<br />
W: www.hotel-internacional.com<br />
HOTEL SUIÇO ATLÂNTICO<br />
R. da Glória, 3<br />
1250-114 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 461 713<br />
F: +351 213 469 013<br />
E: hotelsuiçoatlantico@grupofbarata.com<br />
W: www.grupofbarata.com<br />
POUSADAS,<br />
INNS AND<br />
OTHER HOTELS<br />
AS JANELAS VERDES<br />
R. das Janelas Verdes, 47<br />
1200-690 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 968 143<br />
F: +351 213 968 144<br />
E: jverdes@heritage.pt<br />
W: www.heritage.pt<br />
ESTALAGEM DO FAROL - DESIGN<br />
HOTEL<br />
Av. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 7<br />
2750-465 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 823 490<br />
F: +351 214 841 447<br />
E: faroldh@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.cascais.org<br />
ESTALAGEM DO SADO<br />
R. Irene Lisboa, 1/3<br />
2900-023 SETÚBAL<br />
T: +351 265 542 800<br />
F: +351 265 542 828<br />
E: pedro.costa@estalagemdosado.com<br />
W: www.estalagemdosado.com<br />
ESTALAGEM SENHORA DA GUIA<br />
Est. do Guincho<br />
2750-642 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 869 239<br />
F: +351 214 869 227<br />
E: senhora.da.guia@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.senhoradaguia.com<br />
ESTALAGEM VALE MANSO<br />
Martinchel<br />
2200-648 ABRANTES<br />
T: +351 241 840 000<br />
F: +351 241 840 009<br />
E: reservas@estalagemvalemanso.com<br />
W: www.estalagemvalemanso.com<br />
PALÁCIO BELMONTE<br />
Páteo Dom Fradique, 14<br />
1100-624 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 816 600<br />
F: +351 218 816 609<br />
E: office@palaciobelmonte.com<br />
W: www.palaciobelmonte.com<br />
POUSADA DA BATALHA - MESTRE<br />
AFONSO DOMINGUES<br />
Pousada da Batalha - Mestre Afonso<br />
Domingues<br />
2440-102 BATALHA<br />
T: +351 244 765 260<br />
F: +351 244 765 260<br />
E: recepcao.mestreafonso@pousadas.pt<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
POUSADA DE ÓBIDOS - CASTELO<br />
Pousada de Óbidos - Castelo<br />
2510-999 ÓBIDOS<br />
T: +351 262 955 080<br />
F: +351 262 959 148<br />
E: recepcao.castelo@pousadas.pt<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
POUSADA DE OURÉM - CONDE DE<br />
OURÉM<br />
Pousada de Ourém - Conde de<br />
Ourém<br />
2490-481 OURÉM<br />
T: +351 249 540 920<br />
F: +351 249 540 920<br />
E: recepcao.ourem@pousadas.pt<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
POUSADA DE PALMELA - CASTELO<br />
DE PALMELA<br />
Pousada de Palmela - Castelo de<br />
Palmela<br />
2950-997 PALMELA<br />
T: +351 212 351 226<br />
F: +351 212 330 440<br />
E: recepcao.palmela@pousadas.pt<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
POUSADA DE QUELUZ - DONA<br />
MARIA I<br />
Pousada de Queluz - Dona Maria I -<br />
Lg do Palácio<br />
2745-191 QUELUZ<br />
T: +351 214 356 158<br />
F: +351 214 356 189<br />
E: recepcao.dmaria@pousadas.pt<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
POUSADA DE SETÚBAL - SÃO FILIPE<br />
Pousada de Setúbal - São Filipe<br />
2900-300 SETÚBAL<br />
T: +351 265 550 070<br />
F: +351 265 539 240<br />
E: recepcao.sfilipe@pousadas.pt<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
SOLAR DO CASTELO<br />
R. das Cozinhas, 2 (ao Castelo)<br />
1100-181 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 870 909<br />
F: +351 218 870 907<br />
E: solar.castelo@heritage.pt<br />
W: www.heritage.pt<br />
VINHA DA QUINTA<br />
R. dos Malmequeres, 1- Janas<br />
2710-268 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 292 247<br />
F: +351 212 980 725<br />
E: vinhadaquinta@iol.pt<br />
W: www.vinhadaquinta.com<br />
YORK HOUSE<br />
R. das Janelas Verdes, 32<br />
1200-691 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 962 435<br />
F: +351 213 972 793<br />
E: manager@yorkhouse<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
W: www.yorkhouse<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
24<br />
EXPERIMENTA<br />
DESIGN<br />
The fourth edition of<br />
28<br />
Experimentadesign takes place<br />
from the 14th September to the<br />
10th October in Lisboa. SUNDIALS<br />
Lisboa also has sundials in<br />
public places. We would like to<br />
challenge all those visiting the<br />
<strong>city</strong> to discover them. They are<br />
usually very beautiful pieces,<br />
which often go unnoticed.<br />
12 | 13<br />
14 | 15<br />
19<br />
20 | 21<br />
22 | 23<br />
26<br />
27<br />
27<br />
31<br />
04 | 08 | 30<br />
FÁBRICA DOS PASTÉIS DE BELÉM<br />
THE TILE MUSEUM, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD<br />
COLOUR, MUSIC AND CEREMONY AT THE CHANGING OF THE<br />
GUARD OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC<br />
MARCHAS POPULARES, ONE OF THE BIGGEST EUROPEAN<br />
FESTIVALS<br />
FROM SARDINES… TO CHESTNUTS<br />
MODA LISBOA, A WORLD AT THE REACH OF A CLICK<br />
NEW HOTEL IN CHIADO<br />
A DIFFERENT WAY OF GETTING TO KNOW LISBOA,<br />
ON-BOARD A SIDE-CAR<br />
COMPANHIA NACIONAL DE BAILADO<br />
MY LISBOA,<br />
by Nuno Delgado, Helder Moutinho and João Lagos<br />
2<br />
_<br />
3
NUNO DELGADO<br />
JUDO ATHLETE, BRONZE MEDALLIST IN THE<br />
SYDNEY OLYMPIC GAMES, 2000<br />
“My vision<br />
of Lisboa”<br />
MY LISBOA<br />
So that you can really understand my<br />
choice for a day’s itinerary in the <strong>city</strong> of<br />
Lisboa, I suggest that the reader<br />
accompanies me over the course of a<br />
day, which would consist of my ideal<br />
programme for the <strong>city</strong> of seven hills.<br />
First, I must confess that I am a person<br />
who has travelled a great deal. Through<br />
judo, I have already been around the<br />
world. But Lisboa has a special place in<br />
my heart and you are about to see why.<br />
We’ll start our day early and make the<br />
most of it by having a good breakfast in<br />
Belém. We just have to sample some hot<br />
pastéis de Belém, fresh from the oven.<br />
While we are enjoying the cream pastry<br />
loaded with cinnamon and sugar, we<br />
can enjoy a view of the Jerónimos<br />
Monastery and the beautiful gardens.<br />
By walking along the underpass, we can<br />
visit the Tower of Belém and the<br />
Monument to the Discoveries. We can<br />
look out over the horizon and feel like<br />
the first Portuguese who set out to<br />
challenge the world.<br />
Talking about challenges, how about a<br />
jog along the riverfront to the Santo<br />
Amaro Docks?<br />
Heavenly, the sun is already hot, there’s<br />
a light breeze in the air and the river is<br />
by our side. After half an hour’s exercise,<br />
we have to restore our energy. Have you<br />
tried Portuguese bacalhau (codfish)? You<br />
can now, in this area.<br />
So, after an excellent meal, I suggest a<br />
trip along the Avenida da Liberdade,<br />
passing by Rossio and stopping at<br />
Chiado. Let’s go shopping!<br />
Now, already laden with shopping bags,<br />
we’re on our way to the Lisboa Regency<br />
Chiado Hotel for coffee. What a<br />
wonderful view! A pleasant conversation<br />
and the time just flies by. I check my<br />
watch, we’re already late!<br />
I have reserved a table at a Cape Verdean<br />
restaurant. Why? Because Cape Verde is<br />
also a part of Lisboa. We’re already<br />
comfortably seated when they bring us<br />
the pastéis de milho, (corn fritters), while<br />
we wait for the very popular cachupa, a<br />
typical Cape Verdean dish. This is<br />
delicious, it could have been made by<br />
my mother. The musicians are busy<br />
playing a song by Cesária, how<br />
wonderful! We’ve finished our dessert,<br />
asked for the bill and… No, sorry, I’m the<br />
one who invited you. We say our<br />
goodbyes and leave.<br />
Well, my friend it’s been a long day, and<br />
for me that’s enough. But why don’t you<br />
call by the Avenida 24 de Julho, and<br />
there you’ll find something of everything.<br />
At night time, Lisboa never stops…<br />
Lisboa 30th May, 2005<br />
ACCOMMODATION<br />
48 _<br />
49
5* HOTELS<br />
CORINTHIA ALFA HOTEL<br />
Av. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro<br />
1099-031 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 236 300<br />
F: +351 217 236 364<br />
E: alfa@corinthia.pt<br />
W. www.corinthiahotels.com<br />
HOTEL ALBATROZ<br />
R. Frederico Arouca, 100<br />
2750-353 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 847 380<br />
F: +351 214 844 827<br />
HOTEL ALTIS<br />
R. Castilho, 11<br />
1269-072 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 106 000<br />
F: +351 213 106 262<br />
E: reservations@hotel-altis.pt<br />
W. www.hotel-altis.pt<br />
HOTEL AVENIDA PALACE<br />
R. 1º de Dezembro, 123<br />
1200-359 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 218 100<br />
F: +351 213 422 884<br />
E: reservas@hotel-avenida-palace.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-avenida-palace.pt<br />
HOTEL BAIRRO ALTO<br />
Pç. Luís de Camões, 8<br />
1200-243 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 408 288<br />
F: +351 213 408 299<br />
E: mariajoao.rocha@bairroaltohotel.com<br />
W: www.bairroaltohotel.com<br />
HOTEL CASCAIS MIRAGEM<br />
Av. Marginal, 8554<br />
2754-536 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 210 060 600<br />
F: +351 210 060 626<br />
E: geral@cascaismirage.pt<br />
W: www.cascaismirage.com<br />
HOTEL DOM PEDRO LISBOA<br />
Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco, 24<br />
1070-109 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 896 600<br />
F: +351 213 896 601<br />
E: dp.<strong>lisboa</strong>@dompedro.com<br />
W: www.dompedro.com<br />
HOTEL PALÁCIO<br />
R. do Parque<br />
2769-504 ESTORIL<br />
T: +351 214 648 000<br />
F: +351 214 684 867<br />
E: info@hotelestorilpalacio.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-estoril-palacio.pt<br />
HOTEL REAL PALÁCIO<br />
R. Tomás Ribeiro, 115<br />
1050-228 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 199 500<br />
F: +351 213 199 502<br />
E: info@hoteisreal.com<br />
W: www.hoteisreal.com<br />
HOTEL TIVOLI LISBOA<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 185<br />
1269-050 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 198 900<br />
F: +351 213 198 950<br />
E: ht<strong>lisboa</strong>@tivolihotels.com<br />
W: www.tivolihotels.com<br />
HOTEL TIVOLI PALÁCIO DE SETEAIS<br />
Av. Barbosa du Bocage, 8 - Seteais<br />
2710-517 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 233 200<br />
F: +351 219 234 277<br />
E: htpseteais@tivolihotels.com<br />
W: www.tivolihotels.com<br />
LAPA PALACE<br />
R. Pau de Bandeira, 4<br />
1249-021 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 949 494<br />
F: +351 213 950 665<br />
E: info@lapa-palace.com<br />
W: www.lapa-palace.com<br />
LE MERIDIEN PARK ATLANTIC LISBOA<br />
R. Castilho, 149<br />
1099-034 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 818 700<br />
F: +351 213 890 500<br />
E: reservas.<strong>lisboa</strong>@lemeridien.pt<br />
W: www.lemeridien.pt<br />
PENHA LONGA HOTEL & GOLF<br />
RESORT<br />
Est. da Lagoa Azul - Linhó<br />
2715-511 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 249 011<br />
F: +351 219 249 007<br />
E: resort@penhalonga.com<br />
W: www.penhalonga.com<br />
PESTANA PALACE HOTEL<br />
R. Jau, 54<br />
1300-314 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 615 600<br />
F: +351 213 615 625<br />
E: sales.cph@pestana.com<br />
W: www.pestana.com<br />
PRAIA D'EL REY MARRIOTT GOLF &<br />
BEACH RESORT<br />
Av. Dona Inês de Castro, 1 - Vale das<br />
Janelas, Amoreira<br />
2510-451 ÓBIDOS<br />
T: +351 262 905 100<br />
F: +351 262 905 101<br />
E: info.pdr@marriott-pdr.com.pt<br />
W: www.marriott.com/lisdr<br />
RITZ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LISBOA<br />
R. Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88<br />
1099-039 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 811 400<br />
F: +351 213 831 783<br />
E: reservations.lis@fourseasons.com<br />
W: www.fourseasons.com<br />
SHERATON LISBOA HOTEL &<br />
TOWERS<br />
R. Latino Coelho, 1<br />
1069-025 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 120 000<br />
F: +351 213 547 164<br />
E: sheraton.<strong>lisboa</strong>@sheraton.com<br />
W: www.sheraton.com/<strong>lisboa</strong><br />
4* HOTELS<br />
ALTIS PARK HOTEL<br />
Av. Eng. Arantes e Oliveira, 9<br />
1900-221 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 434 200<br />
F: +351 218 460 838<br />
E: reservations@altisparkhotel.com<br />
W: www.altishotels.com<br />
BEST WESTERN HOTEL FLÓRIDA<br />
R. Duque de Palmela, 34<br />
1250-098 LISBOA<br />
T:+351 213 576 145<br />
F: +351 213 543 584<br />
E: sales@hotel-florida.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-florida.pt<br />
HOLIDAY INN LISBOA<br />
Av. António José de Almeida, 28 A<br />
1000-044 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 044 000<br />
F: +351 217 936 672<br />
E: hil@grupo-continental.com<br />
W: www.holiday-inn.com/lisbonprt<br />
HOLIDAY INN CONTINENTAL<br />
R. Laura Alves, 9<br />
1069-169 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 046 000<br />
F: +351 217 973 669<br />
E: hic@grupo-continental.com<br />
W: www.grupo-continental.com<br />
HOTEL AC LISBOA<br />
Lg. do Andaluz, 13 B<br />
1050-121 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 050 930<br />
F: +351 210 050 931<br />
E: ac<strong>lisboa</strong>@ac-hotels.com<br />
W: www.ac-hotels.com<br />
HOTEL AÇORES LISBOA<br />
Av. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro, 1<br />
1070-060 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 222 925<br />
F: +351 217 222 929<br />
E: comercialhoteis@bensaude.pt<br />
W: www.www.bensaude.pt<br />
HOTEL ATLÂNTICO<br />
Av. Marginal, 8023 A<br />
2765-249 ESTORIL<br />
T: +351 214 680 270<br />
F: +351 214 683 619<br />
E: hotel.atlantico@mail.telepac.pt<br />
HOTEL AVIZ<br />
R. Duque de Palmela, 32<br />
1250-098 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 402 000<br />
F: +351 210 402 199<br />
E: geral@hotelaviz.pt<br />
W: www.hotelaviz.com<br />
HOTEL BRITÂNIA<br />
Tv. do Salitre, 7<br />
1269-066 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 155 016<br />
F: +351 213 155 021<br />
E: britania.hotel@heritage.pt<br />
W: www.heritage.pt<br />
HOTEL CIDADELA<br />
Av. 25 de Abril<br />
2745-517 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 827 600<br />
F: +351 214 867 226<br />
E: hotelcidadela@hotelcidadela.com<br />
HOTEL D. MANUEL I<br />
Av. Duque de Ávila, 189<br />
1050-082 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 593 000<br />
F: +351 213 576 985<br />
E: dmanuel@hoteldmanuel.pt<br />
W: www.hoteldmanuel.pt<br />
HOTEL DO CAMPO GRANDE<br />
Campo Grande, 7<br />
1700-087 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 957 555<br />
F: +351 217 974 761<br />
E: rservas@hoteldocampogrande.com<br />
W: www.hoteldocampogrande.com<br />
HOTEL DO MAR<br />
R. General Humberto Delgado, 10<br />
2970-628 SESIMBRA<br />
T: +351 212 288 300<br />
F: +351 212 233 888<br />
E: hoteldomar@hoteldomar.pt<br />
W: www.hoteldomar.pt<br />
HOTEL ESTORIL EDEN<br />
Av. de Sabóia, 209<br />
2769-502 ESTORIL<br />
T: +351 214 667 600<br />
F: +351 214 667 601<br />
E: geral@hotelestorileden.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-estoril-eden.pt<br />
HOTEL FÉNIX LISBOA<br />
Pç. Marquês de Pombal, 8<br />
1269-133 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 862 121<br />
F: +351 213 860 131<br />
E: fenix<strong>lisboa</strong>@fenix<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
W: www.fenix<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
HOTEL HERITAGE AV. LIBERDADE<br />
Av. Liberdade, 28<br />
1250-145 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 404 040<br />
F:+351 213 404 044<br />
E: avliberdade@heritage.pt<br />
W: www.heritage.pt<br />
(Abre em 2006)<br />
HOTEL LISBOA PLAZA<br />
Tv. do Salitre, 7<br />
1269-066 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 218 218<br />
F: +351 213 471 630<br />
E: plaza.hotels@heritage.pt<br />
W: www.heritage.pt<br />
HOTEL LUTÉCIA<br />
Av. Frei Miguel Contreiras, 52<br />
1749-086 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 411 300<br />
F: +351 218 411 311<br />
E: lutecia@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-lutecia.pt<br />
HOTEL MARQUÊS DE POMBAL<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 243<br />
1250-143 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 197 900<br />
F: +351 213197 990<br />
E: info@hotel-marquesdepombal.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-marquesdepombal.pt<br />
HOTEL MERCURE LISBOA<br />
Av. José Malhoa, Lt. 1684<br />
1099-051 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 208 000<br />
F: +351 217 208 089<br />
E: h3346@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.mercure.com<br />
HOTEL MUNDIAL<br />
R. Dom Duarte, 4<br />
1100-198 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 842 000<br />
F: +351 218 842 110<br />
E: comercial@hotel-mundial.pt<br />
W: www.hotel-mundial.pt<br />
HOTEL NH LIBERDADE<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 180 B<br />
1250-146 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 514 060<br />
F: +351 213 143 674<br />
E: nhliberdade@nh-hotels.com<br />
W: www.nh-hotels.com<br />
HOTEL OLISSIPPO CASTELO<br />
R. Costa do Castelo, 126<br />
1100-179 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 820 190<br />
F: +351 218 820 194<br />
E: dmv@olissippohotels.com<br />
W: www.olissippohotels.com<br />
HOTEL PRAIA MAR<br />
R. do Gurué, 16<br />
2775-581 CARCAVELOS<br />
T: +351 214 585 100<br />
F: +351 214 573 130<br />
E: praiamar@almeidahotels.com<br />
W: www.almeidahotels.com<br />
HOTEL QUINTA DA MARINHA &<br />
VILLAS - GOLF RESORT<br />
Quinta da Marinha<br />
2750-715 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 860 100<br />
F: +351 214 869 488<br />
E: sales@quintadamarinha.com<br />
W: www.quintadamarinha.com<br />
HOTEL REAL OEIRAS<br />
R. Álvaro Rodrigues de Azevedo, 5<br />
2770-197 PAÇO DE ARCOS<br />
T: +351 214 469 900<br />
F: +351 214 469 901<br />
E: realoeiras@hoteisreal.com<br />
W: www.hoteisreal.com<br />
HOTEL SOFITEL LISBOA<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 127<br />
1269-038 LISBOA<br />
T:+351 213 228 310<br />
E: h1319@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.sofitel.com<br />
HOTEL TIVOLI JARDIM<br />
R. Júlio César Mcahado, 7/9<br />
1250-135 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 591 000<br />
F: +351 213 591 245<br />
E: htjardim@tivolihotels.com<br />
W: www.tivolihotels.com<br />
HOTEL TIVOLI SINTRA<br />
Pç. da República<br />
2710-616 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 237 200<br />
F: +351 219 237 245<br />
E: htsintra@tivolihotels.com<br />
W: www.tivolihotels.com<br />
HOTEL TIVOLI TEJO<br />
Av. Dom João II<br />
1990-083 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 915 100<br />
F: +351 218 915 345<br />
E: httejo@tivolihotels.com<br />
W: www.tivolihotels.com<br />
HOTEL TRYP ORIENTE<br />
Av. Dom João II, Lt 1.16.02 B<br />
1990-083 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 930 000<br />
F: +351 218 930 099<br />
E: tryp.oriente@solmeliaportugal.com<br />
W: www.tryporiente.solmelia.com<br />
HOTEL VILA GALÉ ÓPERA<br />
Tv. do Conde da Ponte<br />
1300-141 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 605 400<br />
F: +351 213 605 450<br />
E: opera@vilagale.pt<br />
W: www.vilagale.pt<br />
HOTEL VILLA RICA<br />
Av. 5 de Outubro, 301/319<br />
1600-035 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 043 000<br />
F: +351 210 043 499<br />
E: villarica@fibeira.pt<br />
W: www.hotelvillarica.com<br />
HOTEL VIP DIPLOMÁTICO<br />
R. Castilho, 74<br />
1250-071 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 839 020<br />
F: +351 213 862 155<br />
E: hoteldiplomatico@viphotels.com<br />
W: www.viphotels.com<br />
HOTEL ZENIT LISBOA<br />
Av. 5 de Outubro, 11<br />
1050-047 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 102 200<br />
F: +351 213 102 209<br />
E: dir<strong>lisboa</strong>@zenithoteles.com<br />
W: www.zenithoteles.com<br />
LISBOA MARRIOTT HOTEL<br />
Av. dos Combatentes, 45<br />
1600-042 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 235 400<br />
F: +351 217 264 281<br />
E: lisbon@marriotthotels.com<br />
W: www.marriott.com/lispt<br />
LISBOA REGENCY CHIADO<br />
R. Nova do Almada, 114<br />
1200-290 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 256 100<br />
F: +351 213 256 161<br />
E: regencychiado@madeiraregency.pt<br />
W: www.regency-hotels-resorts.com<br />
RADISSON SAS HOTEL LISBOA<br />
Av. Marechal Craveiro Lopes, 390<br />
1749-009 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 045 000<br />
F: +351 210 045 001<br />
E: rad@grupo-continental.com<br />
W: www.radisson.com/lisbonpt<br />
REAL PARQUE HOTEL<br />
Av. Luís Bívar, 67<br />
1069-146 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 199 000<br />
F: +351 213 570 750<br />
E: info@hoteisreal.com<br />
W: www.hoteisreal.com<br />
SANA LISBOA HOTEL<br />
Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 8<br />
1069-310 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 064 300<br />
F: +351 210 064 301<br />
E: info@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SANA MALHOA HOTEL<br />
Av. José Malhoa, 8<br />
1099-089 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 061 800<br />
F: +351 210 061 801<br />
E: sanamalhoa@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SANA METROPOLITAN HOTEL<br />
R. Soeiro Pereira Gomes, Parcela 2<br />
1600-198 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 982 500<br />
F: +351 217 950 864<br />
E: sanametropolitan@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SANA SESIMBRA HOTEL<br />
Av. 25 de Abril<br />
2970-634 SESIMBRA<br />
T: +351 212 289 000<br />
F: +351 212 289 001<br />
E: sanasesimbra@sanahotels.com<br />
W: www.sanahotels.com<br />
SUITES DO MARQUÊS<br />
Av. Duque de Loulé, 45<br />
1050-086 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 510 480<br />
F: +351 213 531 865<br />
E: <strong>lisboa</strong>.hotel@suitesmarques.com<br />
W: www.hotelsuitesdomarques.com<br />
TURIM EUROPA HOTEL<br />
R. São Sebastião da Pedreira,17/19<br />
1050 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 139 410<br />
F: +351 213 139 419<br />
E: geral@hotelturim.com<br />
W: www.turimhotels.com<br />
TURIM LISBOA HOTEL<br />
R. Filipe Folque, 20<br />
1050-113 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 139 410<br />
F: +351 213 139 419<br />
E: geral@hotelturim.com<br />
W: www.turimhotels.com<br />
LISBOA’S<br />
ESPLANADES<br />
TIME CAN WAIT<br />
With its mild climate the whole year round, Lisboa’s<br />
esplanades are an open window onto the <strong>city</strong>.<br />
4<br />
_<br />
5
Rising up over the Tagus Estuary, one of the largest in<br />
Europe, Lisboa stands to be observed – its light, the<br />
colours of its buildings, its dark red rooftops, like the<br />
scales of some giant fish slumbering on the shore of<br />
the river’s edge. It is an unforgettable picture for those<br />
first visiting it. Moreover, with its famous seven hills,<br />
like Rome, there are many high points in the <strong>city</strong> from<br />
So here are some suggestions for the best viewing points:<br />
At Chiado, if you go up to the last floor of the hotel<br />
bearing the same name, next to the Grandes Armazéns,<br />
there is a cosy terrace where you can have breakfast,<br />
or make time before dinner, whilst admiring a view of<br />
the houses descending down to the river and rising<br />
up to the São Jorge Castle.<br />
Next, is the Largo das Portas do Sol, perhaps the most<br />
famous esplanade for foreign visitors, and one that is<br />
mentioned in all the guidebooks as an absolute must.<br />
Although the terrace is quite small, the actual view<br />
opens out onto practically the whole of the old <strong>city</strong>,<br />
spanning east to west.<br />
which one can admire the panorama. And what better<br />
plan could there be, after the climbs and descents on<br />
foot through the narrow streets of the old<br />
neighbourhoods, than to watch a sunset with the Tagus<br />
as the backdrop, whilst enjoying a coffee or a fresh<br />
drink? With its mild climate the whole year round,<br />
Lisboa’s esplanades are an open window onto the <strong>city</strong>.<br />
Yet another vantage point is the esplanade above the<br />
Eduardo VII Park, set alongside a small lake, or the<br />
second floor of the top-class restaurant, Eleven,<br />
overlooking the greenery of one of <strong>city</strong>’s largest gardens.<br />
In the distance is the Tagus, always present. Close by,<br />
at the Estufa Fria, (Cool House), there is a small covered<br />
esplanade, surrounded by exotic plants. A relatively<br />
unknown, shady spot, ideal for a small break to catch<br />
up on your guidebook, and for some silence.<br />
Then, there are the esplanades that are more suited<br />
for observing the to-and-fro of people, their<br />
conversations, gestures, faces, clothes…<br />
You can begin at Martinho da Arcada, at the Terreiro<br />
do Paço. This was a favourite haunt of the poet and<br />
writer, Fernando Pessoa, who spent many of his late<br />
afternoons here, after leaving work.<br />
LEISURE<br />
46 _<br />
47
HANDICRAFTS AND<br />
SOUVENIRS<br />
ALBERTO SANTOS<br />
Pç. dos Restauradores, 64<br />
1250-188 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 477 875<br />
F: +351 213 420 236<br />
ARTESANATO DO TEJO<br />
R. do Arsenal, 25<br />
1100-038 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 312 820<br />
F: +351 210 312 819<br />
E: info@atlx.pt<br />
W: www.atlx.pt<br />
BAZAR MUMI<br />
Lg. Santo António da Sé, 6/8<br />
1100-499 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 870 089<br />
E: bazar_mumi@hotmail.com<br />
ELÉCTRICO DE LISBOA<br />
Apartado 14334<br />
1064-004 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 540 093<br />
F: +351 217 540 123<br />
E: electricode<strong>lisboa</strong>@hotmail.com<br />
LINHO BORDADO<br />
R. Cidade de Horta, 36 A<br />
1000 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 962 827 365<br />
F: +351 218 476 941<br />
LOJA DOS DESCOBRIMENTOS<br />
R. dos Bacalhoeiros, 12 A<br />
1100-070 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 865 563<br />
E: loja-dos-descobrimentos@ciberguia.pt<br />
MATEUS SHOP<br />
R. Castilho, 61 B<br />
1250-068 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 863 830<br />
F: +351 213 860 879<br />
E: info@mateus-shop.com<br />
W: www.mateus-shop.com<br />
SANTOS OFÍCIOS<br />
R. da Madalena, 87<br />
1100-319 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 872 031<br />
E: santosoficios@santosoficios-artesanato.pt<br />
W: www.santosoficios-artesanato.pt<br />
SOPA DE XILOFONE<br />
R. da Bica Duarte Belo, 12 A<br />
1250-052 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 938 647 888<br />
F: +351 219 759 109<br />
E: silviabruno-barradas@yahoo.com<br />
W: www.sopadexilofone.com<br />
BARS AND<br />
DISCOTHEQUES<br />
BELÉM BAR CAFÉ<br />
Av. Brasília, Pavilhão Poente<br />
1300-598 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 624 232<br />
F: +351 213 624 243<br />
E: belembarcafe@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.belembarcafe.pt<br />
BLUES CAFÉ - RESTAURAÇÃO<br />
R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa - Edif. 226<br />
1300 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 957 085<br />
F: +351 213 957 106<br />
E: blues@bluescafe.pt<br />
W: www.bluescafe.pt<br />
CAFÉ TEATRO SANTIAGO ALQUIMISTA<br />
R. de Santiago, 19<br />
1100-493 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 820 533<br />
F: +351 218 868 917<br />
E: mail@santiagoalquimista.com<br />
W: www.santiagoalquimista.com<br />
CHAMPAGNE CLUB<br />
Cais da Rocha do Conde de óbidos - Armazém<br />
115<br />
1350-352 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 961 886<br />
F: +351 213 961 923<br />
W: www.champagne-club.com<br />
DANÇARTE - DANÇAS COM SABORES<br />
Complexo Desportivo Municipal de Sintra -<br />
Lourel<br />
2710 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 246 178<br />
F: +351 219 246 180<br />
E: dancarte@dancarte.com<br />
W: www.dancarte.com<br />
HENNESSY'S IRISH PUB<br />
R. Cais do Sodré, 32/38<br />
1200-450 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 431 064<br />
F: +351 213 431 064<br />
E: info@hennessys.com.pt<br />
W: www.hennessys.com.pt<br />
KAIS - RESTAURANTE BAR<br />
R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa - Cais da<br />
Viscondessa<br />
1200-109 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 932 930<br />
F: +351 213 932 939<br />
E: comercial@kais.co.pt<br />
W: www.kais-k.com<br />
NUTS CLUB<br />
Av. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 7<br />
2750-461 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 844 109<br />
F: +351 214 836 461<br />
E: coconuts@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.nuts-club.com<br />
OGILIN'S IRISH PUB<br />
R. dos Remolares, 8<br />
1200-371 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 421 899<br />
F: +351 219 282 949<br />
ONDAJAZZ<br />
Arco de Jesus, 7 - Alfama<br />
1100-033 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 873 064<br />
F: +351 214 572 248<br />
E: contact@ondajazz.com<br />
W: www.ondajazz.com<br />
PASSERELLE<br />
Av. Óscar Monteiro Torres, 8 A<br />
1000-219 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 932 944<br />
F: +351 213 562 349<br />
E: grupo.vt@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.passerelle.pt<br />
PIANO-BAR COPU'S<br />
Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos<br />
R. Manuel da Silva Gaio, 2<br />
2795-132 LINDA-A-VELHA<br />
T: +351 210 066 000<br />
F: +351 210 066 199<br />
W: www.solplay.pt/hotel<br />
THE FROG AT EXPO<br />
R. da Pimenta, 17/21<br />
1990-254 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 952 898<br />
F: +351 218 952 899<br />
E: frog.<strong>lisboa</strong>@frogpubs.com<br />
W: www.frogpubs.com<br />
FOOD AND WINES<br />
ADIVINHO<br />
Tv. do Almada, 24<br />
1100-018 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 860 419<br />
F: +351 218 860 419<br />
E: info@adivinho.com<br />
W: www.adivinho.com<br />
CASA CADAVAL<br />
R. Vasco da Gama<br />
2125-317 MUGE<br />
T: +351 243 588 040<br />
F: +351 243 581 105<br />
E: geral@casacadaval.pt<br />
W: www.casacadaval.pt<br />
CASA DOS SABORES DE PORTUGAL<br />
Aeroporto de Lisboa – Partidas, Lj. 11/12<br />
T: +351 218 494 913<br />
F: +351 213 575 427<br />
E: casadossabores@sapo.pt<br />
COISAS DO ARCO DO VINHO<br />
Centro Cultural de Belém<br />
R. Bartolomeu Dias, Lojas 7 e 8<br />
1400-026 LISBOA<br />
T: 213 642 031<br />
F: 213 642 031<br />
E: arcodovinho@net.sapo.pt<br />
W: www.coisasdoarcodovinho.pt<br />
COISAS DO VINHO - ADEGA REGIONAL DE<br />
COLARES<br />
Alam. Corornel Linhares de Lima, 24/32<br />
2705-135 COLARES<br />
T: +351 219 282 733<br />
F: +351 219 282 735<br />
E: coisasdovinho@coisasdovinho.pt<br />
W: www.coisasdovinho.pt<br />
COMPANHIA AGRÍCOLA DO SANGUINHAL -<br />
ENOTURISMO<br />
Quinta das Cerejeiras - Apdo. 5<br />
2544-909 BOMBARRAL<br />
T: +351 262 609 190<br />
F: +351 262 609 191<br />
E: info@vinhos-sanguinhal.pt<br />
W: www.vinhos-sanguinhal.pt<br />
GARRAFEIRA NACIONAL<br />
R. de Santa Justa, 18<br />
1100-485 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 879 080<br />
F: +351 218 877 526<br />
E: info@garrafeiranacional.com<br />
W: www.garrafeiranacional.com<br />
MAGNÓLIA CAFFÉ FINE FOOD<br />
Campo Pequeno, 2 A<br />
1000-078 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 959 852<br />
F: +351 217 931 152<br />
E: geral@magnoliacaffe.com<br />
W: www.magnoliacaffe.com<br />
NAPOLEÃO WINE SHOPS<br />
R. dos Fanqueiros, 70<br />
1100-231 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 872 042<br />
F: +351 218 861 109<br />
E: wine@napoleao.co.pt<br />
W: www.napoleao.co.pt<br />
NOVA AÇOREANA<br />
R.da Prata, 116/118<br />
1100-420 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 879 870<br />
TOURIST<br />
FACILITIES<br />
CHAPITÔ<br />
Costa do Castelo, 1/7<br />
1149-079 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 855 550<br />
F: +351 218 861 463<br />
E: mail@chapito.org<br />
W: www.chapito.org<br />
ESPAÇO RIBEIRA<br />
Av. 24 de Julho - Mercado da Ribeira<br />
1200-479 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 312 600<br />
F: +351 210 312 621<br />
E: espacoribeira@espacoribeira.pt<br />
W: www.espacoribeira.pt<br />
JARDIM ZOOLÓGICO DE LISBOA<br />
Est. de Benfica, 158-160<br />
1549-004 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 232 900<br />
F: +351 217 232 901<br />
E: turismo@zoo<strong>lisboa</strong>.pt<br />
W: www.zoo.sapo.pt<br />
OCEANÁRIO DE LISBOA<br />
Esplanada Dom Carlos I - Doca dos Olivais<br />
1990-005 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 917 002<br />
F: +351 218 955 762<br />
E: info@oceanario.pt<br />
W: www.oceanario.pt<br />
PARQUE EXPO 98<br />
Av. Dom João II. Lt. 1.07.2.1 - Edif.<br />
Administrativo<br />
1998-014 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 919 898<br />
F: +351 218 919 789<br />
E: anaoliveira@parquedasnacoes.pt<br />
W: www.parqueexpo.pt<br />
SOLPLAY FAMILY HEALTH CLUB<br />
Av. 25 de Abril, 33<br />
2799-506 LINDA-A-VELHA<br />
T: +351 214 146 000<br />
F: +351 214 144 449<br />
E: info@solplay.pt<br />
W: www.solplay.pt<br />
FADO HOUSES<br />
A SEVERA - RESTAURANTE TÍPICO<br />
R. das Gáveas, 51/61<br />
1200-206 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 428 314<br />
F: +351 213 464 006<br />
E: info@asevera.com<br />
W: www.asevera.com<br />
ADEGA MACHADO<br />
R. do Norte, 91<br />
1200-284 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 224 640<br />
F: +351 213 467 507<br />
ADEGA MESQUITA<br />
R. do Diário de Notícias, 107<br />
1200-142 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 219 280<br />
F: +351 213 467 131<br />
E: adegamesquita@hed-web.com<br />
W: www.adegamesquita.com<br />
BACALHAU DE MOLHO<br />
Beco dos Armazéns do Linho, 1<br />
1100-037 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 865 088<br />
F: +351 218 865 078<br />
E: booking@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.casadelinhares.com<br />
CAFÉ LUSO<br />
Tv. da Queimada, 10<br />
1200-365 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 422 281<br />
F: +351 213 478 320<br />
E: cafeluso@cafeluso.pt<br />
W: www.cafeluso.pt<br />
CLUBE DO FADO<br />
R. São João da Praça, 94<br />
1100-521 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 852 704<br />
F: +351 218 882 694<br />
E: comercial@clube-do-fado.com<br />
W: www.clube-do-fado.com<br />
SR. VINHO<br />
R. do Meio à Lapa, 18<br />
1200-723 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 972 681<br />
F: +351 213 952 072<br />
E: restsrvinho@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.restsrvinho.com<br />
TAVERNA D'EL REY<br />
Lg. do Chafariz de Dentro, 15<br />
1100-139 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 876 754<br />
F: +351 218 876 754<br />
E: tavernadelrey@hotmail.com<br />
W: www.tavernadelrey.com<br />
TIMPANAS<br />
R. Gilberto Rola, 22/24<br />
1350-155 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 906 655<br />
F: +351 213 972 431<br />
VELHO PÁTEO DE SANT'ANA<br />
R. Dr. Almeida Amaral, 6<br />
1150-138 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 141 063<br />
F: +351 213 153 153<br />
E: pateo_santana@velhopateosantana.com<br />
w: www.velhopateosantana.com<br />
And, if you want to continue the Pessoa tour, then you<br />
will naturally want to meet his statue, seated at the<br />
esplanade of the Brasileira, in the Chiado. This is one of<br />
the busiest areas of the <strong>city</strong>, its underground station<br />
registering more passengers than any other.<br />
Going down to Rossio provides you with the<br />
opportunity of sitting at what has been for decades<br />
the most famous esplanade in the capital – the<br />
Pastelaria Suíça. Sitting here, you’ll be able to appreciate<br />
why they say that Lisboa is made up of many different<br />
types of people – cultures from all the continents come<br />
together in this area, residents and foreigners, in an<br />
agreeable confusion of languages, styles of dressing<br />
and gesticulating.<br />
If you then continue, walking up the <strong>city</strong>’s main avenue,<br />
you will find plenty of esplanades on the pavement<br />
along the Avenida da Liberdade, which used to be the<br />
old pedestrian thoroughfare. In between the trees,<br />
alongside small ponds, it is a great place to take a rest.<br />
It also follows the underground line, so it can serve as<br />
a useful point of departure for more distant excursions.<br />
The same goes for the esplanades at the Campo Grande<br />
gardens, generally frequented by university students,<br />
from the neighbouring faculties. This is an area with a<br />
big lake and lots of trees and it also has a cycle path.<br />
Many of the <strong>city</strong>’s museums have small esplanades.<br />
That of the Museum of Ancient Art enjoys an excellent<br />
view over the Tagus. The Museum of Chiado has an<br />
interior patio which is an interesting example of modern<br />
architecture. The gardens of the Gulbenkian Foundation<br />
LISBOA’S<br />
ESPLANADES<br />
TIME<br />
CAN<br />
WAIT<br />
are full of small esplanades hidden amidst the trees<br />
and plants, where you can take a rest. In the area of<br />
Belém, the upper terrace of the Cultural Centre,<br />
landscaped with olive trees and just in front of the<br />
Tagus, is a perfect place from which to appreciate the<br />
celebrated light of Lisboa, reflected and diffused on<br />
the river’s water. Moreover, there are often music recitals<br />
at the end of the day at the Centre.<br />
Lisboa’s Esplanades – sitting at them, is like taking part<br />
in a film. The anonymous extra in an eternal film who<br />
forgets the time that passes.<br />
6<br />
_<br />
7
HELDER<br />
MOUTINHO<br />
FADO SINGER<br />
MY LISBOA<br />
Lisboa has a thousand windows<br />
A thousand stories of caravels<br />
A thousand guitars strumming<br />
I have almost nothing<br />
I have my dawn<br />
And a little of your glance<br />
Lisboa has its trees<br />
A castle with nothing left to fear<br />
And a river the colour of the sea<br />
I have my joy<br />
Painted with fantasy<br />
And a little of your glance<br />
Lisboa has its ferries<br />
Who try to be the first<br />
To see Lisboa waking up<br />
I have a boat on the Tagus<br />
That I haven’t seen for a while<br />
And a little of your glance<br />
Lisboa has the smell of the sea<br />
On calm nights<br />
When one sings and dreams<br />
I have fado in my heart<br />
And a sound voice<br />
And a little of your glance<br />
Lisboa, 1994<br />
“Lisboa of a thousand<br />
windows”<br />
MONUMENTS<br />
& MUSEUMS<br />
44 _<br />
45
MONUMENTS AND MUSEUMS<br />
ARTE GALERIA<br />
Lisboa Welcome Center<br />
R. do Arsenal, 15 - 1º<br />
1100-038 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 964 077 879<br />
E: artejovem.galeria@oninet.pt<br />
W: www.artegaleria.com.pt<br />
HOUSE-MUSEUM MEDEIROS E ALMEIDA FOUNDATION<br />
R. Rosa Araújo, 41<br />
1250-194 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 547 892<br />
F: +351 213 561 951<br />
E: fmamuseu@hotmail.com<br />
W: www.fundacaomedeirosealmeida.pt<br />
HOUSE-MUSEUM DR. ANASTÁCIO GONÇALVES<br />
Av. 5 de Outubro, 6/8<br />
1050-055 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 540 823<br />
F: +351 213 548 754<br />
E: cmag@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.cmag-ipmuseus.pt<br />
HOUSE-MUSEUM MESTRE JOÃO DA SILVA<br />
R. Tenente Raul Cascais, 11 R/C<br />
1250-268 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 961 396<br />
F: +351 213 961 396<br />
MUSEUM OF THE MACAO CULTURAL AND SCIENTIFIC CENTRE<br />
R. da Junqueira, 30<br />
1300-343 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 617 570<br />
F: +351 213 617 598<br />
E: geral@cccm.mces.pt<br />
W: www.cccm.mcies.pt<br />
MODERN ART CENTRE MUSEUM JOSÉ AZEVEDO PERDIGÃO<br />
R. Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt<br />
1050-078 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 823 474<br />
F: +351 217 823 037<br />
E: camjap@gulbenkian.pt<br />
W: www.gulbenkian.pt<br />
ARPAD SZENES-VIEIRA DA SILVA FOUNDATION<br />
Pç. das Amoreiras, 56/58<br />
1250-020 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 880 044<br />
F: +351 213 880 039<br />
E: fasvs@fasvs.pt<br />
W: www.fasvs.pt<br />
CULTURSINTRA FOUNDATION<br />
Quinta da Regaleira<br />
2710 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 106 650<br />
F: +351 219 244 725<br />
E: regaleira@mail.telepac.pt<br />
RICARDO ESPÍRITO SANTOS SILVA FOUNDATION<br />
Lg. das Portas do Sol, 2<br />
1100-411 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 814 600<br />
F: +351 218 814 638<br />
E: geral@fress.pt<br />
W: www.fress.pt<br />
INSENSATEZ - GALERIA DE ARTE<br />
R. Bartolomeu de Gusmão, 21<br />
1100-078 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 880 553<br />
F: +351 218 880 553<br />
E: insensatez@netcabo.pt<br />
W: www.insensatez.net<br />
JERÓNIMOS MONASTERY<br />
Pç. do Império<br />
1400-206 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 620 034<br />
F: +351 213 639 145<br />
E: mosteirojeronimos@mosteirojeronimos.pt<br />
W: www.mosteirojeronimos.pt<br />
THE CARMO ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM<br />
Lg. do Carmo- Ruínas do Convento do Carmo<br />
1200-092 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 460 473<br />
F: +351 213 244 252<br />
PHARMACY MUSEUM<br />
R. Marechal Saldanha, 1<br />
1249-069 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 400 680<br />
F: +351 213 472 994<br />
E: joao.neto@anf.pt<br />
W: www.anf.pt<br />
MUSIC MUSEUM<br />
Estação de Metropolitano do Alto dos Moínhos<br />
R. João de Freitas Branco<br />
1500-359 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 710 991<br />
F: +351 217 710 999<br />
E: mmusica@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.museudamusica-ipmuseus.pt<br />
PRESIDENTS OF THE REPUBLIC MUSEUM<br />
Pç. Afonso de Albuquerque<br />
1349-022 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 614 660<br />
F: +351 213 614 764<br />
E: museupr@zmail.pt<br />
W: www.museu.presidencia.pt<br />
RÁDIO MUSEUM<br />
R. de Quelhas, 21<br />
1200-779 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 950 762<br />
F: +351 213 957 149<br />
E: museudaradio@rdp.pt<br />
W: www.rdp.pt/geral/museu/index.htm<br />
COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM<br />
R. do Instituto Industrial, 16<br />
1200-225 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 935 159<br />
F: +351 213 935 006<br />
E: museu@fcp.pt<br />
W: www.fcp.pt<br />
FOLK ART MUSEUM<br />
Av. Brasília<br />
1400-038 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 011 282<br />
F: +351 213 011 128<br />
E: martepopular@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.ipmuseus.pt/portu/museus/apopular.htm<br />
FÁTIMA WAX MUSEUM<br />
R. Jacinto Marto<br />
2495-450 FÁTIMA<br />
T: +351 249 539 300<br />
F: +351 249 539 301<br />
E: museu@mucefa.pt<br />
W: www.mucefa.pt<br />
NAVAL MUSEUM<br />
Pç. do Império<br />
1400-206 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 620 019<br />
F: +351 213 631 987<br />
E: geral@museumarinha.pt<br />
W: www.museumarinha.pt<br />
CHIADO MUSEUM<br />
R. Serpa Pinto, 4<br />
1200-444 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 432 148<br />
F: +351 213 432 151<br />
E: mchiado@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.museudochiado-ipmuseus.pt<br />
MILITARY MUSEUM<br />
Lg. de Santa Apolónia<br />
1196 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 842 568<br />
F: +351 218 842 556<br />
E: museumilitar@portugalmail.pt<br />
W: www.geira.pt/militar<br />
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY<br />
Pç. do Império<br />
1400-206 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 620 000<br />
F: +351 213 620 016<br />
E: mnarqueologia@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.mnarqueologia-ipmuseus.pt<br />
NATIONAL ART MUSEUM<br />
R. das Janelas Verdes<br />
1249-017 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 912 800<br />
F: +351 213 973 703<br />
E: mnarteantiga@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt<br />
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY<br />
Av. Ilha da Madeira<br />
1400-203 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 041 160<br />
F: +351 213 013 994<br />
E: mnetnologia@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.mnetnologia-ipmuseus.pt<br />
NATIONAL TILE MUSEUM<br />
R. da Madre de Deus, 4<br />
1900-312 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 100 340<br />
F: +351 218 100 369<br />
E: mnazulejo@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt<br />
NATIONAL THEATRE MUSEUM<br />
Est. do Lumiar, 10/12<br />
1600-495 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 567 410<br />
F: +351 217 575 714<br />
E: mnteatro@ip-museus.pt<br />
W: www.museudoteatro-ipmuseus.pt<br />
NATIONAL DRESS MUSEUM<br />
Lg. Júlio de Castilho<br />
1600-483 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 590 318<br />
F: +351 217 591 224<br />
E: mntraje@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.museudotraje-ipmuseus.pt<br />
NATIONAL COACH MUSEUM<br />
Pç. Afonso de Albuquerque<br />
1300-004 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 610 850<br />
F: +351 213 637 246<br />
E: mncoches@ipmuseus.pt<br />
W: www.museudoscoches-ipmuseus.pt<br />
AJUDA NATIONAL PALACE<br />
Lg. da Ajuda<br />
1349-021 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 620 264<br />
F: +351 213 648 223<br />
E: pnajuda@ippar.pt<br />
W: www.cidadevirtual.pt/palacio-ajuda/<br />
PENA NATIONAL PALACE<br />
Palácio Nacional da Pena<br />
2710-609 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 105 340<br />
F: +351 219 105 341<br />
E: pnpena@ippar.pt<br />
W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_pena.html<br />
MAFRA NATIONAL PALACE<br />
Palácio Nacional de Mafra<br />
2640-492 MAFRA<br />
T: +351 261 817 550<br />
F: +351 261 811 947<br />
E: pnmafra@ippar.pt<br />
W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_mafra.html<br />
QUELUZ NATIONAL PALACE<br />
Lg. do Palácio<br />
2745-191 QUELUZ<br />
T: +351 214 343 860<br />
F: +351 214 343 878<br />
E: pnqueluz@ippar.pt<br />
W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_queluz.html<br />
SINTRA NATIONAL PALACE<br />
Lg. Rainha Dona Amélia<br />
2710-616 SINTRA<br />
T: +351 219 106 840<br />
F: +351 219 106 851<br />
E: pnsintra@ippar.pt<br />
W: www.ippar.pt/monumentos/palacio_sintra.html<br />
PAVILLION OF KNOWLEDGE LIVE SCIENCE<br />
Parque das Nações - Alam. dos Oceanos<br />
1990-223 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 917 100<br />
F: +351 218 917 171<br />
E: info@pavconhecimento.pt<br />
W: www.pavconhecimento.pt<br />
MAFRA NATIONAL WILD LIFE PARK<br />
Portão do Codeçal<br />
2640-602 MAFRA<br />
T: +351 261 817 050<br />
F: +351 261 814 984<br />
E: informacoes@tapadademafra.pt<br />
W: www.tapadademafra.pt<br />
BELÉM TOWER<br />
Av. de Brasília<br />
T: +351 213 620 034<br />
F: +351 213 639 145<br />
E: torrebelem@mosteirojeronimos.pt<br />
W: www.mosteirojeronimos.pt<br />
MAFALDA ARNAUTH,<br />
a young woman “captured” by fado<br />
LISBOA FOR<br />
WALKING,<br />
WATCHING<br />
AND<br />
EATING<br />
Not even she knows how destiny got her involved in<br />
this. But Mafalda Arnauth was “captured” by Fado and,<br />
in just a few years, her extraordinary voice and the<br />
poetry she writes have made a decisive contribution<br />
to the new wave that is sweeping the so called<br />
Portuguese national song. Born in Lisboa, she spoke to<br />
us of the Lisboa she belongs to and for which she<br />
experiences immediate saudades (a sense of longing)<br />
when she has to spend time away from the light, the<br />
river and her people.<br />
8<br />
_<br />
9
MAFALDA ARNAUTH<br />
THE<br />
ENCHANTMENT<br />
OF<br />
LISBOA<br />
The olive trees at the esplanade of the Belém Cultural<br />
Centre offer little shade on an afternoon in which the<br />
sun is already high in the sky and there is no breeze<br />
from the sea. An intense, yet diffuse light is reflected<br />
from the Tagus, spreading across Lisboa, the <strong>city</strong> built<br />
on steps, stage to a spectacle of a thousand colours.<br />
Mafalda Arnauth, a young fado singer whose voice and<br />
style, in just a few years, have gained a new generation<br />
of admirers of Fado, is about to release another album.<br />
She talks to MY OWN LISBOA about her plans and the<br />
relationship she has with Lisboa, “a <strong>city</strong> to fall in love<br />
with“.<br />
“This is the album of my life, in terms of histories,<br />
moments, influences”, she explains. It contains songs<br />
she has written and composed herself, as well as<br />
adaptations. It includes Milonga do Chiado (a<br />
neighbourhood of Lisboa), to which Mafalda has added<br />
the refrain – “Ah, how I understand / that I still miss you<br />
/ The cruel ashes that remember / A happy time. I was<br />
also left / without all that I wanted / Without all that I<br />
loved /And whenever I return here/ I share with you<br />
the smell of what it was to love”.<br />
Mafalda Arnauth loves Lisboa, she walks around it every<br />
day – but she does have a favourite area, Graça. One<br />
day, whilst she was showing the <strong>city</strong> to an Argentinean<br />
friend, from the top of this hill, she was inspired to write<br />
a fado: “And I run down to the river / kissing the<br />
Cathedral on the way/ I reach the Alfama in a delirium<br />
/ because my Faith is larger”.<br />
“I really miss Lisboa. When I travel, I have enormous<br />
saudades, especially because of the never ending<br />
contact we have with the river and the sea”, she says.<br />
“And then, Lisboa is this mix of so many different people.<br />
The old part, where in some quarters neighbours live<br />
so closely together almost as if it was still the Middle<br />
Ages, and the more modern areas, with their<br />
cosmopolitan rhythm, which is in complete contrast”.<br />
The ascents and descents of the trams also have their<br />
charm, but Mafalda recommends walking. From Graça,<br />
Castelo, through the Alfama, down to the river, then<br />
along the riverside to Belém. “So that a foreigner can<br />
get to know the people of Lisboa better, because there<br />
is a characteristic common to all the Portuguese – a<br />
playful cheekiness, it’s very typical, at the same time as<br />
being sweet and open. It’s something you can’t describe<br />
with words. You can only discover alfacinhas (an<br />
affectionate term for the people of Lisboa – meaning<br />
baby lettuce) by having real contact with them”.<br />
Mafalda made her debut in 1995, at the São Luís Theatre,<br />
a venue in the area of Chiado, which she describes as<br />
magical. However, her voice has taken her to other<br />
exceptionally beautiful places with a very special<br />
atmosphere, such as the Ajuda Palace.<br />
It can’t be said that the fado singer only likes the food<br />
of Lisboa – “The problem is that I like everything, that’s<br />
my weakness”, she laughs. However, she loves traditional<br />
Portuguese cooking and the advice she gives to anyone<br />
who isn’t familiar with it, is to eat fresh fish and sea<br />
food, bacalhau (codfish), naturally, and the sweets. And,<br />
if it’s during the summer they mustn’t miss sardines.<br />
“For a restaurant, try the Solar dos Presuntos, near<br />
Avenida da Liberdade (on the same road as the Coliseu<br />
dos Recreios). It’s always good, the dishes are really<br />
Portuguese, not touristy”. Or try Guincho or the left<br />
bank of the Tagus, for fish and seafood, “there are a lot<br />
of good restaurants over on the other side”.<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
42 _<br />
43
RESTAURANTS<br />
A COMMENDA<br />
Centro Cultural de Belém - Pç. do<br />
Império<br />
1499-003 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 648 561<br />
F: +351 213 612 610<br />
E: cerger@cerger.com<br />
A PESCARIA<br />
Cais da Ribeira Nova, Armazém<br />
18/19<br />
1200 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 463 588<br />
F: +351 213 463 588<br />
E: pedro-valido@clix.pt<br />
ADEGA DO TEIXEIRA<br />
R. do Teixeira, 39 - Bairro Alto<br />
1200-459 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 428 320<br />
AFREUDITE<br />
Passeio das Garças, Lt. 4.39- Lj. 1 J<br />
1880-388 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 940 660<br />
F: +351 219 459 604<br />
E: afreudite@netcabo.pt<br />
W: www.afreudite.com<br />
ÁGUA E SAL<br />
Oceanário de Lisboa - Esplanada<br />
Dom Carlos I- Doca dos Olivais<br />
1990-005 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 936 189<br />
F: +351 218 936 187<br />
E: aguaesal@iol.pt<br />
ALECRIM ÀS FLORES<br />
Tv. do Alecrim, 4<br />
1200-019 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 225 368<br />
F: +351 213 431 600<br />
E: alecrimasflores@famigeste.com<br />
ARMAZÉM F<br />
R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa -<br />
Armazém 65, Cais do Gás<br />
1200-109 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 220 160<br />
F: +351 213 471 135<br />
E: armazemf@netcabo.pt<br />
W: www.armazemf.com<br />
ATANVÁ<br />
R. da Pimenta, 43/45<br />
1990-254 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 950 480<br />
F: +351 218 950 484<br />
E: atanva@clix.pt<br />
W: www.parquedasnacoes.pt/pt/restauracao/<br />
BELÉM TERRACE<br />
Av. Brasília -Edif. de Apoio à Náutica<br />
Belém<br />
1400-038 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 620 865<br />
E: margarida.serra@cerger.com<br />
BICA DO SAPATO<br />
Av. Infante Dom Henrique - Cais da<br />
Pedra a Santa Apolónia B<br />
1900 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 810 320<br />
F: +351 218 810 329<br />
E: bsapato@mail.teleweb.pt<br />
W: www.luxfragil.com/bicasapato/bica_beta.html<br />
BUFFET DO PLAZA<br />
Hotel Lisboa Plaza- TV. do Salitre, 7<br />
1269-066 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 218 218<br />
F: +351 213 471 630<br />
E: plaza.hotels@heritage.pt<br />
W: www.heritage.pt<br />
CAFÉ IN<br />
Av. Brasília, Pavilhão Nascente, 311<br />
1300-123 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 626 248<br />
F: +351 213 625 999<br />
E: café-in@gastronomias.com<br />
W: www.gastronomias.com/café-in<br />
CAFÉ MARTINHO DA ARCADA<br />
Pç. do Comércio, 3<br />
1100-148 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 866 213<br />
F: +351 218 867 757<br />
CASA DO BACALHAU<br />
R. do Grilo, 54<br />
1900-706 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 620 000<br />
F: +351 218 620 008<br />
E: acasadobacalhau@netcabo.pt<br />
W: www.acasadobacalhau.restaunet.pt<br />
CASA MÉXICO<br />
Av. Dom Carlos I, 140<br />
1200-651 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 974 790<br />
F: +351 213 975 390<br />
E: contacto@casamexico.pt<br />
W: www.casamexico.pt<br />
CLARA - JARDIM RESTAURANTE<br />
Campo Mártires da Pátria, 49<br />
1150-225 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 853 053<br />
F: +351 218 852 082<br />
E: clararestaurant@mail.telepac.pt<br />
W: www.<strong>lisboa</strong>-clara.pt<br />
CONSENSO<br />
R. Academia das Ciências, 1<br />
1200-003 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 431 311<br />
F: +351 213 431 312<br />
COSMOS CAFÉ<br />
Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazém<br />
243 - Pavilhão 5<br />
1350-353 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 972 747<br />
F: +351 213 972 747<br />
DOM POMODORO<br />
Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazém 13<br />
1350-353 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 909 353<br />
F: +351 213 909 354<br />
E: geral@donpomodoro.com<br />
W: www.donpomodoro.com<br />
ELEVEN<br />
R. Marquês de Fronteira - Jardim<br />
Amália Rodrigues<br />
1070 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 862 211<br />
F: +351 213 862 214<br />
E: 11@restauranteleven.com<br />
W: www.restauranteleven.com<br />
ESPAÇO LISBOA<br />
R. da Cozinha Económica, 16/28<br />
1300-149 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 610 210<br />
F: +351 213 610 211<br />
E: espaco<strong>lisboa</strong>@sapo.pt<br />
ESPÍRITO DOS TACHOS<br />
Cç. da Estrela, 35/37<br />
1200-166 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 970 003<br />
HARD ROCK CAFÉ<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 2<br />
1250-144 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 245 280<br />
F: +351 213 245 288<br />
E: lisbon_sales@hardrock.com<br />
W: www.hardrock.com<br />
IMPÉRIO DOS SENTIDOS<br />
R. da Atalaia, 35/37<br />
1200-037 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 431 822<br />
E: imperio.dos.sentidos@clix.pt<br />
INÍCIO - RESTAURANTE/BAR<br />
R. Presidente Arriaga, 55<br />
1200 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 905 164<br />
W: www.iniciorestaurante.com<br />
JARDIM DO MARISCO<br />
Av. Infante Dom Henrique - Doca<br />
do Tabaco, Pavilhão A/B<br />
1100-282 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 824 240<br />
F: +351 218 824 249<br />
E: geral@jardimdomarisco.pt<br />
W: www.jardimdomarisco.pt<br />
LA CAFFÉ - AV. LIBERDADE<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 129 B - 1º<br />
1250-140 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 256 736<br />
F: +351 217 986 417<br />
E: sabreu@lanidor.com<br />
W: www.lanidor.com<br />
LA CAFFÉ - CAMPO GRANDE<br />
Campo Grande, 3 B<br />
1700-087 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 986 418<br />
F: +351 217 986 417<br />
E: sabreu@lanidor.com<br />
W: www.lanidor.com<br />
LX IT LISBONNA ITALIANA<br />
R. das Gáveas,15/17 Bairro Alto<br />
1200-206 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 432 124<br />
E: lx_it@hotmail.com<br />
MAGNOLIA CAFFÉ - LONDRES<br />
Av. de Roma, 7<br />
1000-260 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 471 163<br />
E: geral@magnoliacaffe.com<br />
W: www.magnoliacaffe.com<br />
MAR DE SABORES<br />
Passeio das Tágides, Lt. 2.25.01<br />
1990-280 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 922 750<br />
F: +351 218 922 757<br />
E: geral@mardesabores.pt<br />
W: www.mardesabores.pt<br />
NARIZ DE VINHO TINTO<br />
R. do Conde, 75 R/C<br />
1200-636 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 953 035<br />
F: +351 213 932 281<br />
NUNE'S REAL MARISQUEIRA<br />
R. Bartolomeu Dias, 120 - Lt. D 1,<br />
R/C<br />
1400-031 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 019 899<br />
F: +351 213 019 899<br />
E: geral@nunesrealmarisqueira.com<br />
W: www.nunesrealmarisqueira.com<br />
PASTELARIA MEXICANA<br />
Av. Guerra Junqueiro, 30 C<br />
1000-167 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 486 117<br />
F: +351 218 488 462<br />
E: pastelariamexicana@iol.pt<br />
W: www.pastelariamexicana.pt<br />
PASTELARIA SUIÇA<br />
Pç. Dom Pedro IV, 96/101<br />
1100-202 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 214 090<br />
F: +351 213 214 099<br />
E: casasuica@casasuica.pt<br />
W: www.casasuica.pt<br />
PEIXÃO<br />
R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa -<br />
Edif. 254, Armazém I<br />
1200-109 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 971 507<br />
F: +351 213 971 203<br />
E: peixao@netcabo.pt<br />
REAL FÁBRICA<br />
R. da Escola Politécnica, 275<br />
1250-101 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 852 090<br />
F: +351 213 872 919<br />
E: realfabrica@realfabrica.pt<br />
W: www.realfabrica.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE A TRAVESSA<br />
Tv. do Convento das Bernardas, 12<br />
1200-687 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 902 034<br />
F: +351 213 940 839<br />
E: a.travessa@netcabo.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE AD-LIB<br />
Hotel Sofitel Lisboa<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 127<br />
1269-038 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 228 350<br />
F: +351 213 228 310<br />
E: h1319-fb@accor-hotels.com<br />
W: www.sofitel.com<br />
RESTAURANTE AVIZ<br />
Hotel Aviz<br />
R. Duque de Palmela, 32<br />
1250-098 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 402 000<br />
F: +351 210 402 199<br />
E: geral@hotelaviz.pt<br />
W: www.hotelaviz.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE BELCANTO<br />
Lg. de São Carlos, 10<br />
1200-023 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 420 607<br />
F: +351 213 420 608<br />
E: belcanto@netcabo.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE BOULEVARD<br />
Hotel Travel Park Lisboa<br />
Av. Almirante Reis,64<br />
1150-020 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 102 100<br />
f: +351 218 102 198<br />
E: reservas@hoteltravelpark.com<br />
W: www.hoteltravelpark.com<br />
RESTAURANTE CASA 21<br />
R. Prof. Fernando da Fonseca -<br />
Complexo Alvalade XXI<br />
1600-616 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 217 512 380<br />
F: +351 217 512 399<br />
E: casa21@casa21.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE CASA DO LEÃO<br />
Castelo de São Jorge<br />
1100-129 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 880 154<br />
F: +351 218 876 329<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE COZINHA VELHA<br />
Pousada de Queluz - Dona Maria I<br />
Lg. do Palácio<br />
2745-191 QUELUZ<br />
T: +351 214 350 232<br />
F: +351 214 356 189<br />
W: www.pousadas.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE DO TEATRO<br />
Hotel NH Liberdade<br />
Av. da Liberdade, 180 B<br />
1250-146 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 514 060<br />
F: +351 213 143 674<br />
E: nhliberdade@nh-hotels.com<br />
W: www.nh-hotels.com<br />
RESTAURANTE DOCA 6<br />
Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazém 6<br />
1350-353 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 957 905<br />
F: +351 213 957 894<br />
E: cerger@doca6.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE ESTUFA REAL<br />
Cç. do Galvão - Jardim Botânico da<br />
Ajuda<br />
1400 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 619 400<br />
F: +351 213 619 018<br />
E: estufa.real@mail.telepac.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE FAZ FIGURA<br />
R. do Paraíso, 15 B<br />
1100-396 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 218 868 981<br />
F: +351 218 822 103<br />
E: faz_figura@hotmail.com<br />
RESTAURANTE PAP'AÇORDA<br />
R. da Atalaia,57/59<br />
1200-037 LISBOA<br />
T: 213 464 811<br />
F: 213 423 765<br />
RESTAURANTE PARIS<br />
R. dos Sapateiros, 126<br />
1100-580 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 469 797<br />
F: +351 213 421 280<br />
E: restauranteparis@sapo.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE PORÃO DE SANTOS<br />
Lg. de Santos, 1<br />
1200-808 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 965 862<br />
F: +351 213 612 500<br />
RESTAURANTE PRATU'S<br />
Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos<br />
R. Manuel da Silva Gaio, 2<br />
2795-132 LINDA-A-VELHA<br />
T: +351 210 066 056<br />
T: +351 210 066 187<br />
W: www.solplay.pt/hotel<br />
RESTAURANTE SACRAMENTO<br />
Cç. Sacramento, 40/46<br />
1200-241 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 420 572<br />
F: +351 213 420 567<br />
W: www.sacramento<strong>lisboa</strong>.com<br />
RESTAURANTE SOL DOURADO<br />
R. Jardim do Regedor, 21/25<br />
1150-183 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 472 570<br />
RESTAURANTE TAVARES<br />
R. da Misericórdia, 35 R/C<br />
1200-270 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 421 112<br />
F: +351 213 478 125<br />
E: reservas@tavaresrico.pt<br />
W: www.tavaresrico.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE TERREIRO DO PAÇO<br />
Pç. do Comércio<br />
1100-148 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 210 312 850<br />
F: +351 210 312 859<br />
E: terreirodopaco@quintadaslagrimas.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE TÍPICO O<br />
MADEIRENSE<br />
Centro Comercial das Amoreiras,<br />
Lj. 3027<br />
T: +351 213 830 827<br />
E: paula.fernandes@omadeirense.pt<br />
W: www.omadeirense.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE UAI<br />
Cais da Rocha de Conde de Óbidos<br />
- Armazém 114<br />
1350-352 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 900 111<br />
F: +351 213 860 880<br />
E: uai@uai.pt<br />
W: www.uai.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE VALLE FLOR<br />
Pestana Palace Hotel<br />
R. Jau, 54<br />
1300-314 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 615 600<br />
F: +351 213 615 625<br />
E: sales.cph@pestana.com<br />
W: www.pestana.com<br />
RESTAURANTE VARANDA<br />
Best Western Premier Hotel Eduardo<br />
VII<br />
Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo, 5<br />
1069-114 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 568 815<br />
F: +351 213 568 833<br />
E: sales@hoteleduardovii.pt<br />
W: www.hoteleduardovii.pt<br />
RESTAURANTE VARANDAZUL<br />
Estádio do Restelo - Av. do Restelo<br />
1449-015 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 012 006<br />
F: +351 213 051 585<br />
E: varandazul@gastronomias.com<br />
W: www.varandazul.gastronomias.com<br />
ROSA MÉXICO<br />
Marina de Cascais, lj. 27 A<br />
2750-000 CASCAIS<br />
T: +351 214 818 010<br />
F: +351 213 975 390<br />
E: contacto@casamexico.pt<br />
W: www.casamexico.pt<br />
STEAKHOUSE<br />
R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa -<br />
Armazém 255<br />
1200-109 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 242 910<br />
F: +351 213 242 911<br />
E: pg01.autebeque@mail.telepac.pt<br />
TEMPLO DOS SABORES<br />
Tv. do Conde de Soure, 15<br />
1200-119 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 476 022<br />
E: geral@templodossabores.com<br />
W: www.templodossabores.com<br />
TERTÚLIA DO TEJO<br />
Doca de Santo Amaro, Pavilhão 4<br />
1350-353 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 955 552<br />
F: +351 213 955 596<br />
TRIPA FORRA<br />
Tv. das Mercês, 16<br />
1200-269 LISBOA<br />
T: +351 213 433 151<br />
Mafalda Arnauth complains about the major building<br />
works in strategic areas of Lisboa, such as the Marquês<br />
de Pombal and the Terreiro do Paço (“But I suppose<br />
the renovation of the big cities has to be like that”) and<br />
the traffic and problems with parking. But she tries to<br />
appreciate the <strong>city</strong>, without letting stress get a hold of<br />
her, given all the rushing about she does due to the<br />
fact she is a composer, writer, singer and she produces<br />
her own albums and shows.<br />
“Mafalda Arnauth”, “Esta voz que me atravessa” (This<br />
Voice that crosses through me) and “Encantamento”<br />
(Enchantment) are the three albums that the singer<br />
has produced so far. Essentially, they amount to a kind<br />
of sung biography by someone who has written poetry<br />
since she was 15 and who sees herself as “more than<br />
just optimistic, someone who is able to overcome<br />
adversities”.<br />
It was her school friends that first recognised her talent.<br />
“I never imagined that one day I would become a fado<br />
singer”, she confesses. “Listening to live fado, creates<br />
a very special empathy that can’t be reproduced on an<br />
album. And for the person singing it there is a rush of<br />
adrenalin. It’s very emotional and quite special”, she<br />
explains. Once she tried it “she was captured by Fado”,<br />
which even led to her physical transformation. She<br />
concludes, quoting Amália Rodrigues: “Fado happened<br />
to me”.<br />
Mafalda Arnauth was born in Lisboa on 4th October,<br />
1974 and revealed a passion for music from very early<br />
on. Without ever having aspired to be a performer,<br />
Mafalda Arnauth found herself immediately transported<br />
into the world of concerts, tours, rehearsals and fado<br />
houses, where she was soon overwhelmed by the<br />
audience’s enthusiastic applause and the discovery of<br />
herself through song.<br />
With the freshness characteristic of a voice without<br />
“vices”, she captivated audiences, firstly, through her<br />
spontaneity, then, through the memories she evoked<br />
with a repertoire of old favourites and finally, because<br />
of her nature, her compositions and her personality,<br />
showing herself in a more genuine and truthful way.<br />
Inspired by this approach, even her first album is full<br />
of her own compositions.<br />
During the course of her concerts that have taken her<br />
to many places in the world, her shows have developed<br />
their own particular style. It is through her own songs<br />
that she has revealed herself most deeply and her<br />
concern is to increase her own repertoire even further<br />
so that in time she will leave a mark for her country,<br />
her culture, but with her own words. In every continent,<br />
she leaves behind her a mark of the past which inspired<br />
her, of the present that she inhabits and the future she<br />
plans for. Above all, Mafalda Arnauth wants to<br />
communicate...<br />
A VOICE<br />
WITHOUT<br />
VICES<br />
10<br />
_<br />
11
FÁBRICA DOS PASTÉIS DE BELÉM<br />
THEY SMELL GOOD,<br />
THEY SMELL OF<br />
PASTÉIS<br />
This walk begins at the Martim Moniz Metro station in Rua do Capelão (1) and<br />
continues along Rua da Mouraria to the Church of Senhora da Saúde (2), with its<br />
beautiful tiles and carved wood altar. The church is open for visits on afternoons or<br />
whenever there is a mass. In the recently reconstructed Martim Moniz square (3) is<br />
the singularly multi-racial shopping center called Centro Comercial da Mouraria.<br />
Enter the picturesque Mouraria quarter by the steps called Escadinhas da Saúde (4)<br />
and go on to Largo da Rosa, where there is a convent of the same name (5), and the<br />
Church of S. Lourenço. Now go on to Largo da Achada (6) and the Church of S.<br />
Cristóvão (7). Then take Calçada Marquês de Tancos, and you´ll come to the municipal<br />
market called Mercado Municipal do Chão de Loureiro (8), with its painters’ studios<br />
and splendid terrace. Take Rua da Costa do Castelo past the Chapitô circus school<br />
(9) then take the S. Crispim stairs (10), down to Rua de São Mamede, with the Correio<br />
Velho Palace (11) on the left. Take Travessa do Almada to the Church of Santa Maria<br />
Madalena (12). From there, Rua da Sé takes you to Largo de Santo António (13) with<br />
its taverns and the St. Anthony Museum. A little farther up is the Cathedral (14), built<br />
WALKS<br />
in 1147, where you can visit the church, the treasury and the Roman ruins. Take Rua<br />
Augusto Rosa up to the Santa Luzia belvedere (15) and enjoy the panoramic views<br />
of the Tagus and the Alfama. But there is still St. George’s Castle (16) to be seen -<br />
Centro de Interpretação da Cidade. You can reach it with the aid of the map via Rua<br />
de S. Tiago. It is worth the climb. The finest views of the <strong>city</strong> and the river can be had<br />
from its gardens and parapets. When you leave, turn left onto Rua do Chão da Feira,<br />
to get to Largo Mor and the Church of Santa Luzia (17). Largo das Portas do Sol (18)<br />
with its popular café terraces is an ideal place to take a rest and admire the views.<br />
If you feel like continuing, take the stairs on the right down to Largo de S. Miguel,<br />
then take the narrow Beco do Carneiro to the Church of Santo Estevão (19). Rua dos<br />
Remédios will take you to Largo do Chafariz de Dentro (20) - Fado House and<br />
Portuguese Guitar Museum. If it happens to be June, when the Festas Populares take<br />
place, you’ll find the narrow streets and alleys festooned with lamps and decorations<br />
and packed with revellers.<br />
40 _<br />
41
MOURARIA<br />
CASTELO<br />
ALFAMA<br />
CHURCH<br />
BELVEDERE<br />
STEPS<br />
TRAM LINE<br />
ELEVATOR /<br />
FUNICULAR<br />
TRAM<br />
TRAIN<br />
FERRY<br />
METRO<br />
An aroma of cream and cinnamon<br />
permeates the air and from even a<br />
hundred metres away you can already<br />
smell the proximity of one of the “sacred”<br />
sites of world famous patisserie: having<br />
resisted industrialisation, being sold or<br />
franchised, the Pastéis de Belém are still<br />
one of Lisboa’s best ambassadors.<br />
Everyone falls for their sweet temptation.<br />
In the area of Belém, a compulsory stopping place for<br />
any tourist visiting Lisboa, there is a very special pastry<br />
shop whose fame has spread throughout the world:<br />
“the only, genuine bakery of Pastéis de Belém”. During<br />
the day, every day of the year, around ten thousand<br />
pastéis (a kind of custard tart), made completely by<br />
hand, leave here, fresh and ready to eat.<br />
According to the legend, just like all other traditional<br />
Portuguese sweets, the Pastéis de Belém originated<br />
from a receita conventual (convent recipe) from the<br />
neighbouring Jerónimos Monastery. Following the<br />
Liberal revolution in 1820, religious orders were<br />
abolished in Portugal, and their convents and<br />
monasteries nationalised.<br />
The lay workers who lived in them, among them the<br />
cooks, had to find employment elsewhere. A pastry<br />
cook from the Jerónimos Monastery, owner of the<br />
precious recipe, is said to have gone to work at a sugar<br />
refinery in the surrounding neighbourhood, and within<br />
a short time the “genuine Pastéis de Belém” were being<br />
sold to the public.<br />
They were an immediate success with the people of<br />
Lisboa, who rushed to buy the new pastries. After that,<br />
they became famous throughout the country. With<br />
the emergence of mass tourism, in the mid 20th century,<br />
the fame of the Pastéis de Belém spread across the<br />
whole world, from New York to Japan. No wonder, that<br />
with such success many have tried both in Portugal<br />
and abroad to imitate this product. However, up until<br />
now they haven’t succeeded<br />
The first pastry cook, the one that came from the<br />
Jerónimos Monastery, worked late into the night, in<br />
secret. He shut himself in his room, not letting anyone<br />
enter, while he mixed the ingredients in exactly the<br />
right proportions, just as the monk who invented the<br />
recipe had taught him. Fearing that the pastéis would<br />
be copied, the owner of the pastry shop later patented<br />
the recipe, which up until now has been kept secret.<br />
At present, only three people have access to the magic<br />
recipe – a pastry cook who has worked for the<br />
establishment for half a century, and two trustworthy<br />
assistants, who have also been there for decades. They<br />
had to swear and oath and sign a declaration promising<br />
never to teach the secret to anyone.<br />
Today, an average of 10 thousand pastéis are made<br />
daily. According to the cooks what distinguishes Pastéis<br />
de Belém from normal pastéis de nata sold in other<br />
establishments is, besides the recipe with the exact<br />
proportions, the fact that they are prepared by hand<br />
using top quality ingredients– flour, sugar, milk and<br />
eggs.<br />
The success of the Pastéis de Belém has been an object<br />
of study for the most varied of reasons. From primary<br />
school pupils who send handwritten letters asking<br />
what ingredients are used in the recipe, to students of<br />
Anthropology writing theses on this pastry. Pedro<br />
Clarinha, manager of the house since 1984, has received<br />
them all. He gives his assurance that he replies to all<br />
queries and proof of his interest in the history of the<br />
Pastéis de Belém is the fact that he collects, not just all<br />
this work, but also newspaper cuttings, curiosities,<br />
photographs and autographs of all the famous people<br />
who have passed by there.<br />
The process of making the pastéis is still done by hand.<br />
The pastry is moulded into forms by a group of women.<br />
They could have been replaced by machines were it<br />
not for the concern to preserve this traditional method,<br />
which is part of the establishment’s philosophy.<br />
Besides this, the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém has<br />
frequently found itself “against the current”, explains<br />
Pedro Clarinha. Some years ago, when many cafés<br />
where getting rid of their chairs in order to deter<br />
customers who spend a whole afternoon with just a<br />
bica (small coffee), the Fábrica decided to invest in<br />
more tables – and with success. More recently, offers<br />
to buy the business or franchise it have been increasing.<br />
However, so far, although not rejecting the idea of<br />
expanding the business, the owner has resisted such<br />
proposals.<br />
12 _<br />
13
THE TILE MUSEUM<br />
UNIQUE<br />
IN THE<br />
WORLD<br />
Start by taking the Santa Justa Elevator (1) up to the ruins of the Carmo Convent (2),<br />
destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. This is the only remaining example of early gothic<br />
architecture in Lisbon. Walk up Rua da Trindade, where you can see the impressive<br />
façade of the Trindade Theatre (3), then continue down the road to visit the two<br />
churches, Igreja do Loreto (4) and Igreja da Encarnação (5). Go down Rua Garrett to<br />
the church called Igreja dos Mártires (6) , then go by Lisbon’s opera house, the São<br />
Carlos Theatre (7), and visit the Chiado Museum (8), in Rua Serpa Pinto. Go down the<br />
winding Calçada do Ferragial that takes you to the 17th cent. Corpo Santo Church<br />
(9) then turn left onto Rua do Arsenal, leading to Praça do Município (10), and the<br />
Lisbon Town Hall, built in 1774. Two blocks east lies one of Europe’s outstanding <strong>city</strong><br />
squares, the 18th cent. Praça do Comércio (11). From the SE corner of the square,<br />
in front of the ferry terminal (12), where you can take a river tour, go east to the<br />
Campo das Cebolas, where the odd Casa dos Bicos (13) stands. Now go back along<br />
Rua da Alfândega, where you’ll find the ornate Manueline façade of the church of<br />
Nossa Senhora da Conceição (14). Stop off for lunch, or a ‘bica’, a little cup of aromatic<br />
black coffee, in the 200 year old Café Martinho d’Arcada, a favourite haunt of the<br />
WALKS<br />
poet Fernando Pessoa, then pass under the great neo-classical archway called Arco<br />
da Vitória (15), where the pedestrian mall, Rua Augusta (16) begins, and take in the<br />
cosmopolitan buzz of one of Lisbon’s main shopping hubs. At the top is Praça D.<br />
Pedro IV, the square known to Lisboners as Rossio. Turn right off the NE corner of<br />
the square to the church of S. Domingos (17), founded in 1241, and reconstructed<br />
after the 1755 earthquake. Turn back to where Portugal’s National Theatre, the neoclassical<br />
Teatro Nacional D. Maria II (18), built 1842, stands at the north end of Rossio.<br />
From here, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão takes you to the Palácio da Independência<br />
(19) and Praça dos Restauradores (20). On the opposite side of this square are the<br />
Palácio Foz (21), the neo-Manueline Rossio railway station, and the Glória Funicular<br />
(22), which takes you up to the Bairro Alto, with its narrow streets and bohemian<br />
nightlife. As an alternative to the funicular, go back down through Rossio (23) and<br />
walk up Rua do Carmo and Rua Garrett, the streets that make up the earth of Chiado.<br />
An old quarter dear to Lisboners, the Chiado (24) suffered a serious fire in 1988 and<br />
has now been reconstructed following a master plan drawn up by leading Portuguese<br />
architect, Álvaro Siza Vieira.<br />
38 _<br />
39
CHURCH<br />
BELVEDERE<br />
STEPS<br />
TRAM LINE<br />
ELEVATOR /<br />
FUNICULAR<br />
TRAM<br />
TRAIN<br />
FERRY<br />
METRO<br />
BAIXA<br />
CHIADO<br />
Perhaps its most spectacular piece is a gigantic panel of Lisboa seen from<br />
the River Tagus. It depicts the <strong>city</strong> just a few years before the fateful day<br />
of 1st November, 1755, when it was destroyed by an earthquake followed<br />
by a giant tidal wave. From this panel you can recreate the story and see<br />
what the <strong>city</strong> looked like before the dreadful event that, at the time,<br />
shocked the whole of civilised Europe.<br />
However, the Tile Museum, with its collection of over 7 thousand pieces,<br />
has much more than this to show of a form of art which has become<br />
one of Portugal’s most recognisable “hallmarks”.<br />
Founded in 1509 by Queen Leonor, the Convent of<br />
Madre de Deus was occupied by barefoot Franciscan<br />
nuns from the order of Saint Clare. It is these premises,<br />
on the east side of Lisbon, that today house the Tile<br />
Museum.<br />
The museum’s impressive display contains tiles,<br />
ceramics, graphic material and tools. It is believed to<br />
be the most extensive collection of tiles in the world,<br />
at present totalling 7,300 inventoried pieces.<br />
The tradition of the Portuguese tile is rooted in a strong<br />
Arabic influence, the result of the occupation of the<br />
territory between the 8th and 13th centuries.<br />
The collection was initially exhibited at the National<br />
Museum of Ancient Art, making up part of the ceramics<br />
section.<br />
At the beginning of the 1960’s this collection was<br />
transferred to the Convent of Madre de Deus and<br />
enlarged with additions from other museums and state<br />
institutions.<br />
The collection has been constantly enriched by<br />
acquisitions and donations from private individuals<br />
and institutions.<br />
The Tile collection documents the important production<br />
of tiles in Portugal from the 15th century up to the<br />
present day.<br />
Amongst its most outstanding pieces is the panel of<br />
Nossa Senhora da Vida (Our Lady of Life), the oriental<br />
style altar decoration, from the third quarter of the 17th<br />
century, the complete set of tiles from the Hunting<br />
Hall, circa 1680, panels from the Master’s Cycle, which<br />
include the Cena Mitológico (Mythological Scene) by<br />
Gabriel Del Barco, circa 1695, the monumental Vista de<br />
Lisboa (View of Lisboa), circa 1700, A Fuga do Egipto<br />
(the Flight from Egypt) by Oliveira Bernardes, circa 1730,<br />
the series Vitórias de Alexandre, (Alexander’s Victories),<br />
circa 1745, the series Vida de Cristo (Life of Christ), circa<br />
1760, the panel Quatro Estações (Four Seasons) circa<br />
1770, or the História do Chapeleiro António Joaquim<br />
Carneiro (Story of the Hat Maker António Joaquim<br />
Carneiro), circa 1800.<br />
The 19th century is represented by an important section<br />
of semi-industrially and industrially produced tiles from<br />
the Fábricas (Factories) de Roseira, Viúva Lamego,<br />
Santana and Constância in the region of Lisboa, and<br />
the china factory, the Fábrica de Louça de Sacavém.<br />
There are also examples from the Fábrica de Massarelos<br />
in Porto, the Fábrica das Devesas from Gaia; and the<br />
ceramics factory, the Fábrica de Cerãmica das Caldas<br />
da Rainha.<br />
Museu Nacional do Azulejo<br />
Rua da Madre de Deus, 4<br />
1900-312 Lisboa<br />
Tel.: 218 100 340<br />
Tuesdays from 14h00 to 18h00<br />
Wednesdays to Sundays 10h00 to<br />
18h00<br />
Closed Mondays, Easter Sunday,<br />
1st January, 1st May and 25th<br />
December.<br />
Entrance: 2.24 Euros<br />
Free on Sundays and public<br />
holidays up to 14h00<br />
Buses: 18, 42, 104, 105<br />
Documenting the 20th century are works by Rafael<br />
Bordalo Pinheiro, Raul Lino, Jorge Barradas, Maria Keil,<br />
Querubim Lapa, Manuel Cargaleiro, Cecília de Sousa,<br />
Eduardo Nery. Outstanding amongst these, are works<br />
by several artists commissioned for the decoration of<br />
the Lisbon Underground, and the work of contemporary<br />
artists such as Luís Camacho, Bela Silva, Fernanda<br />
Fragateiro or Ilda David.<br />
Industrial production is represented by tiles from the<br />
Fábrica de Louça de Sacavém, from the Fãbrica<br />
Cerâmica Viúva Lamego and the Fábrica Lusitânia.<br />
Amongst the collection of international tiles is an<br />
important section on Hispano-Mouresque tiles which<br />
were used in Portugal towards the end of the 15th and<br />
beginning of the 16th century, an example of which is<br />
the corda-seca (a technique in which the clay plate<br />
was moulded with the drawings in relief) bearing King<br />
Manuel’s coat of arms (who reigned from 1495 to 1521),<br />
the group of Dutch tiles depicting single figures and<br />
the panel A Lição de Dança, (the Dancing Lesson) by<br />
Willem Van der Kloet, (1707), as well as the section of<br />
Art Nouveau tiles produced in France, Belgium,<br />
Germany and England from the beginning of the 20th<br />
century.<br />
There are also pieces by Arnold Zimmerman or Philipe<br />
Barde representing examples of contemporary<br />
production.<br />
14 _<br />
15
Filipe Figueiredo (Graciosa) shows, half seriously and<br />
half jokingly, an X ray of his ankle on which you can<br />
clearly see 8 screws. “It was completely broken. This<br />
was how they put it back together”, he explains, in<br />
relation to a riding accident which occurred two years<br />
ago. “I don’t limp as much now, but two screws had to<br />
remain in there, forever, and became part of the bone”.<br />
It is on a radiantly sunny morning that the Director of<br />
the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art receives us in<br />
his small office, in one of the buildings adjacent to the<br />
Queluz National Palace. “It was the most serious accident<br />
I have ever had, over decades of riding, but I still had<br />
my leg in a cast when I was back mounted on a horse”,<br />
he says<br />
Outside, trainers, grooms and riders are saddling the<br />
horses, preparing them for another display of Haute<br />
École.<br />
Dressed up in Baroque costumes from the times of<br />
King João V, in the mid 18th century, the riders are<br />
completing the final touches to their horses. They speak<br />
to their animals, mount up and move towards the<br />
paddock for the warm ups.<br />
At the top of the Glória Funicular (1) are the gardens and belvedere of S. Pedro de<br />
Alcântara (2). Continue past them along Rua D. Pedro V until you come to the<br />
Príncipe Real Gardens (3), under which there is a water cistern, built in 1864 that can<br />
be visited on weekdays. Farther down the road are the museums of Natural History<br />
and Science (4) and the Botanical Gardens (5). The streets Miguel Pais and Monte do<br />
Carmo will take you to Rua Cecílio de Sousa, from which a flight of stairs (6), will take<br />
you back up to the Príncipe Real Gardens. Cross the gardens and go down Rua do<br />
Século, turning right at the bottom into Rua da Academia das Ciências, where the<br />
Portuguese Academy of Science and Geological Museum are located (7). Now take<br />
Rua de S. Marçal up to the romantic little square called Praça das Flores (8), where<br />
some excellent restaurants are located. Go down Rua de S. Bento, where there are<br />
a number of antique shops and, on the left hand side, Espaço por Timor (9), the<br />
center created to support the rights of the people of Timor to independence and<br />
their courageous resistance to the Indonesian occupation. At the end of the street<br />
on the right is the São Bento Palace where the Portuguese Parliament sits (10).<br />
WALKS<br />
Continue in the same direction down Av. D. Carlos I to the fountain called the Chafariz<br />
Monumental da Esperança (11), by the architect Carlos Mardel, then take Rua do<br />
Poço dos Negros and Calçada do Combro up to the Church of Santa Catarina (12)<br />
and the magnificent belvedere of the same name (13). Ride the Bica funicular (14)<br />
down to Rua de S. Paulo, and to the square, Largo de São Paulo (15), built in 1849,<br />
with its church and fountain (16). In Travessa do Carvalho are the old baths known<br />
as the Banhos de São Paulo and farther ahead, going west through Praça D. Luis I<br />
(17), is the municipal market known as the Mercado Municipal de 24 de Julho (18),<br />
built in 1876. There is an important public transport interface with bus, metro, tram<br />
and ferry lines at Cais do Sodré (19) railway station, where the Cascais train line<br />
begins. Try some charcoal-grilled fish along the attractive Passeio Ribeirinho (riverside<br />
walk) (20), then climb Rua do Alecrim to Luis de Camões Square (21) and the Church<br />
of S. Roque (22). Go into the Bairro Alto quarter (23) and sample its renowned<br />
nightlife. You can hear genuine Fado and pass some enjoyable hours without any<br />
worry about personal safety.<br />
36 _<br />
37
BAIRRO ALTO<br />
CAIS DO<br />
SODRÉ<br />
CHURCH<br />
BELVEDERE<br />
STEPS<br />
TRAM LINE<br />
ELEVATOR /<br />
FUNICULAR<br />
TRAM<br />
TRAIN<br />
FERRY<br />
METRO<br />
da Ribeira<br />
AN ART WITH CENTURIES OF HISTORY AND TRADITION<br />
A JOURNEY TO<br />
THE BAROQUE WITH<br />
THE LUSITANO<br />
H O R S E<br />
At the old Royal Riding School, in the open air, dozens<br />
of people, most of them children from neighbouring<br />
schools and groups of tourists, are waiting impatiently<br />
around the arena for the show to begin.<br />
Every Wednesday, during spring and summer, at around<br />
11h00 there is a classical dressage show. Training from<br />
Mondays to Fridays, between 10h00 and 13h00, is open<br />
to the public, free of charge.<br />
There are several characteristics that are unique about<br />
this riding school: for one thing, all the horses are<br />
Lusitano thoroughbreds that come from the old Royal<br />
Stud Farm of Alter (Alto Alentejo), founded in 1748 by<br />
King João V. Over the centuries, this breed has evolved<br />
through the influence of crossbreeding with horses<br />
native to Lusitania (the ancient name for Portugal),<br />
which were famous for their speed during the Roman<br />
Empire, the neighbouring Andalusian horse and the<br />
Arabian thoroughbred. The end product is an animal<br />
which is not very large, yet versatile, intelligent and<br />
resistant.<br />
A DISPLAY<br />
OF RHYTHM<br />
AND<br />
COLOUR<br />
The display lasts around an hour and involves eight to<br />
ten pairs, led by Filipe Figueiredo. The sequence of<br />
movements of horses and riders belong specifically to<br />
the Portuguese School and are a form of dressage<br />
related to the art of bullfighting on horseback, a unique<br />
feature in the world and one that Portugal has<br />
preserved.<br />
The audience, especially its younger members, noisily<br />
applauds the appearance of a rider just coming into<br />
sight, a sign that the show is about to begin. The music,<br />
which consists of extracts from Baroque composers,<br />
fills the air and horses and riders advance in step to its<br />
rhythm. Splendidly colourful, with the red of the jackets<br />
contrasting with the deep greens of the magnificent<br />
gardens and woodlands of the Queluz Palace, Filipe<br />
Figueiredo’s team straightens itself, parades past and<br />
makes a formal salute. With a moustache fashioned<br />
Every week, a display of horses in Haute<br />
École (classical dressage) takes place in<br />
the grandiose setting of the Queluz<br />
Palace and Gardens. The star of the event<br />
is the Lusitano, a horse which was on<br />
the verge of extinction, but is now bred<br />
and admired throughout the world.<br />
according to the style of bygone eras, the head<br />
horseman leads his mount through specific steps,<br />
followed immediately by the other horses.<br />
“The temperament of the Lusitano horse is ideal for<br />
Haute École. They are docile animals but steady,<br />
intelligent but creative”, Filipe Figueiredo explains to<br />
us. “And each one has his own personality. There are<br />
those that get nervous when they hear clapping, which<br />
they have to get used to; and there are those that get<br />
excited when they hear clapping, and perform even<br />
better, true artists”.<br />
The Lusitanos, which were on the verge of extinction<br />
only decades ago, are today bred by the Portuguese<br />
State at public stud farms. They are now highly sought<br />
after and twice a year they are sold at auction. In<br />
Portugal, private breeders have regained an interest in<br />
rearing Lusitanos and just about all over the world,<br />
especially in Brazil and the United States, this breed is<br />
becoming increasingly popular.<br />
Heir to a cultural heritage unique in the world, the<br />
Portuguese school of Equestrian Art is definitely worth<br />
a visit.<br />
16 _<br />
17
A JOURNEY TO<br />
THE BAROQUE WITH<br />
THE LUSITANO<br />
H O R S E<br />
THE FIGURES<br />
Work in hand – used for teaching Ares Altos (airs above<br />
the ground). The preparatory exercise is the piaffe which<br />
involves the horse trotting on the spot with a high<br />
action of the legs. The exercises also include the capriole,<br />
in which the horse leaps upwards with a vertical kick<br />
of its hind legs, remaining momentarily in the air,<br />
reminding one of a winged horse; the levade, in which<br />
the horse rears up on its hind legs gracefully bending<br />
its forelegs in the classic posture of many equestrian<br />
statues; the courbette in which the horse jumps<br />
forwards on its hind legs from the levade position;<br />
finally, the piaffer nos pilões (piaffe on the pillars). The<br />
old riding masters used the pilões (poles with two rings<br />
in the centre of the arena, between which the horse<br />
was held) in order to increase the horse’s concentration.<br />
LONG REIGNS<br />
Through training, the horse becomes docile and<br />
acquires a slow gait which allows it to be lead at a walk.<br />
Indications from the reigns and the crop are sufficient<br />
for the Lusitano to perform the most difficult dressage<br />
exercises when mounted.<br />
SOLO<br />
Presentation of a mounted horse with three gaits –<br />
walking, trotting, cantering<br />
ARES ALTOS<br />
The exercises which were carried out in hand are now<br />
performed on a mounted horse. The ares altos are the<br />
climax of the art of Baroque horsemanship.<br />
PAS-DE-TROIS<br />
Demonstration by three riders of the various<br />
movements and figures in the three gaits.<br />
QUADRILLE<br />
A group of eight to ten riders perform a kind of<br />
equestrian ballet in perfect synchronisation, enthralling<br />
the audience who often clap in time to the rhythm of<br />
the movements.<br />
Display of Equestrian Art<br />
Portuguese School of Equestrian<br />
Art<br />
Queluz National Palace<br />
For more information:<br />
www.cavalonet.com/epae<br />
From May to October<br />
Displays every Wednesday at<br />
11h00<br />
Tickets: 9 euros, 50 percent<br />
discount for the over 65’s, free for<br />
children up to the age of 8.<br />
Training, during the whole year,<br />
from Mondays to Fridays, from<br />
09h30 to 13h00, at the Queluz<br />
National Palace Gardens, entrance<br />
free.<br />
Begin your walk at the Estrela Gardens (Jardim da Estrela) (1) with their wrought iron<br />
bandstand: Buses: 9, 27; Trams: 25, 28. Facing the gardens is the Estrela Basilica (Basílica<br />
da Estrela) (2), in late baroque and neo-classical style. The four columns on the façade<br />
are topped with statues representing Faith, Devotion, Gratitude and Generosity. The<br />
relief behind is thought to be the work of Portugal’s foremost 18th cent. sculptor,<br />
Machado de Castro. Take the streets Domingos Sequeira and Saraiva de Carvalho to<br />
the square Praça São João Bosco and the Prazeres Cemetery (Cemitério dos Prazeres)<br />
(3) and then, taking Rua Possidónio da Silva, go on to Tapada das Necessidades (4)<br />
to see its excellent cactus gardens. Nearby is the Necessidades Palace (5), built in<br />
the 18th cent. and now home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. From the square in<br />
front (6) you can pick out the 25 of April bridge, inaugurated in 1966, and the Christ<br />
the King monument on the other side of the river. Note the bronze cross on a thorned<br />
sphere in the 1747 fountain, and an obelisk in pink marble. Now go down Calçada<br />
WALKS<br />
do Sacramento leading to the Alcântara quarter (7) and Praça da Armada (8), where<br />
there are a number of good, low-priced restaurants and taverns. Continue your walk<br />
along Calçada da Pampulha to Rua das Janelas Verdes: on one side is the Dr. José<br />
Figueiredo square (9) with its great fountain, and on the other the National Museum<br />
of Art (10). From the gardens (Jardim 9 de Abril) (11) beside it there are views over<br />
the river and the Port of Lisbon. Overlooking the gardens is the Red Cross Palace,<br />
the stairs leading of the gardens will take you down to Av. 24 de Julho. Cross the<br />
avenue and the railway line alongside it then turn right on to Av. Brasília and follow<br />
it to the Alcântara Dock (12) where you’ll find the Maritime Terminal (13) with its<br />
great mural panels by the Portuguese modernist painter Almada Negreiros. Walk<br />
through the bustling, cosmopolitan Santo Amaro Dock (14), packed with riverside<br />
café terraces, bars and discos. Buses 14, 32, 43, 28 will take you back to the center.<br />
34 _<br />
35
ESTRELA<br />
PRAZERES<br />
ALCÂNTARA<br />
DOCAS<br />
CHURCH<br />
BELVEDERE<br />
STEPS<br />
TRAM LINE<br />
ELEVATOR /<br />
FUNICULAR<br />
TRAM<br />
TRAIN<br />
FERRY<br />
METRO<br />
The National Republican Guard is<br />
responsible for the security of the Belém<br />
Palace, the President of Portugal’s official<br />
residence. The guards on sentry duty<br />
outside the Palace change over regularly,<br />
according to military rules. However,<br />
once a month there is a much bigger<br />
and more elaborate ceremony.<br />
All the members of the Guard (those<br />
going off duty and those taking over),<br />
the Bugles of the Infantry Regiment, the<br />
Band of the Commander-General, a<br />
Cavalry Platoon and the Cavalry Band.<br />
The ceremony begins at 11h00, with the<br />
lining up of the two guards in front of<br />
the Palace, to the accompaniment of<br />
music played by the Band. This is<br />
followed by the “Salutation” between<br />
the Guards and the “Handing over of the<br />
Sentry Duty”, during which the<br />
Portuguese National Anthem is played.<br />
The Cavalry Platoon goes into the Palace,<br />
accompanied by the Cavalry Band, now<br />
playing different music. The Band and<br />
the Bugles then carry out a ceremony of<br />
sound and movement. This involves<br />
different steps, both on foot and on<br />
horseback and is called Brinco da Banda.<br />
After this, they leave the Palace and make<br />
their way back to the Cavalry Regiment<br />
barracks, in the neighbouring area of<br />
Ajuda.<br />
After the “Final Salutation” between the<br />
Guards, the ceremony ends with the exit<br />
from the palace of the Guard going off<br />
duty, which marches to the Jerónimos<br />
Monastery, whilst the Guard taking over,<br />
enters the palace, to the music of the<br />
band, marking the beginning of their<br />
shift.<br />
One of the main attractions of this<br />
ceremony is the performance of the GNR<br />
Cavalry Band, the only one in the world<br />
which plays music at a gallop. The riders,<br />
besides being accomplished musicians,<br />
also know how to ride a horse, and<br />
coordinate its movements with the rest<br />
of the group<br />
COLOUR, MUSIC AND CEREMONY<br />
AT THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD<br />
OF THE PRESIDENT<br />
OF THE REPUBLIC<br />
Horses, riders, standards, sparkling uniforms, gleaming helmets,<br />
drums, cymbals and trumpets in a fusion of rhythm and ceremony.<br />
The Changing of the Guards is a unique event in Lisboa and takes<br />
place outside the Belém Palace on the third Sunday of each month,<br />
at 11h00.<br />
18 _<br />
19
MARCHAS POPULARES<br />
ONE OF THE BIGGEST<br />
EUROPEAN<br />
FESTIVALS<br />
The most original parade, the best<br />
music, the best choreography or visual<br />
arrangement and the most original<br />
lyrics are the subject of heated debate<br />
between the rival neighbourhoods in<br />
the months following the marchas<br />
populares.<br />
This western suburb has an enormous number of prime tourist sights and cultural<br />
attractions. Bus: 14, 27, 29, 43, 49, 51. Tram: 15. Train: Belém station on the Cais do<br />
Sodré – Cascais line. Begin at the Belém Palace (Palácio de Belém) (1), official residence<br />
of the President of the Republic, and try one of the renowned Belém pastries in the<br />
traditional pastry shop on the corner (2). Walk up Calçada do Galvão to the Tropical<br />
Agricultural Garden-Museum (Jardim-Museu Agrícola Tropical) (3) and then go back<br />
down to the Jeronimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) (4) and to the<br />
Archaeological Museum (Museu de Arqueologia) (5). Visit the Gulbenkian Planetarium<br />
(Planetário Gulbenkian) (6) and the Maritime Museum (Museu de Marinha) (7). Take<br />
a look in the spectacular Belém Cultural Center (Centro Cultural de Belém) (8),<br />
designed by Italian architect Vittorio Gregotti and Portuguese architect Manuel<br />
Salgado, and have lunch looking out over the Tagus and the Belém gardens (9). Cross<br />
over to the riverfront using the pedestrian underpass and visit the Discoveries<br />
WALKS<br />
Monument (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) (10). Take the elevator up to the top, enjoy<br />
the panoramic views, and don’t miss the bird’s-eye view of the great Compass Rose<br />
(Rosa dos Ventos) on the pavement below. Next walk west along the riverfront to<br />
the Museum of Folk Art (Museu de Arte Popular) (11). Continuing in the same<br />
direction, walk by the Bom Sucesso dock (Doca do Bom Sucesso) (12) until you come<br />
to the famous Belém Tower (Torre de Belém) (13). After visiting it, continue past the<br />
Bom Sucesso fort (Forte do Bom Sucesso) (14) next door and use the pedestrian<br />
bridge to cross the train tracks and highway to Av. Torre de Belém (15), walk up it<br />
to Rua de Pedrouços where you can catch a number 15 tram to Praça Afonso de<br />
Albuquerque (16) and the Belem River Ferry Station (Estação Fluvial de Belém) (17).<br />
A short walk east is the Electri<strong>city</strong> Museum (Museu da Electricidade) (18). After a visit<br />
here, relax on one of the river front terraces. Buses for the center: 14, 28, 43, 49, 51.<br />
32 _<br />
33
BELÉM<br />
CHURCH<br />
BELVEDERE<br />
STEPS<br />
TRAM LINE<br />
ELEVATOR /<br />
FUNICULAR<br />
TRAM<br />
TRAIN<br />
FERRY<br />
METRO<br />
Lisboa is in a state of permanent street partying at the<br />
beginning of Summer. The reason is the<br />
commemoration of the Popular Saints – Saint Anthony,<br />
Saint John and Saint Peter - on 13th ,24th and 29th<br />
June, respectively. One of the high points of the street<br />
celebrations are the Marchas Populares, a costumed<br />
parade of local neighbourhood groups along the<br />
Avenida da Liberdade.<br />
They represent months and months of work, of<br />
rehearsals, involving thousands of people, of all ages<br />
and social groups, whose aim is to present to the public,<br />
the best dances, the best costumes, the most<br />
spectacular arrangement, sung and danced to the<br />
rhythm of a musical genre – the march - a typical form<br />
of song for Lisboa and the alfacinhas, the name by<br />
which its inhabitants are known. The sea, fishing, fado,<br />
traditional trades, political satire, arches and vases of<br />
flowers, the ephemeral manjerico (a kind of basil which<br />
is one of the traditions of the festival) with its distinctive<br />
and unforgettable smell, are themes which are always<br />
present in the parade. Each entry is judged by a jury<br />
and the results of the prizes for the most original parade,<br />
the best music, the best choreography or visual<br />
arrangement, the most original lyrics are the subject<br />
of heated debate between the rival neighbourhoods<br />
in the months following the marchas populares.<br />
The major champions in the category of Best March,<br />
have been the neighbourhoods of the Alfama (which<br />
has won 12 times), Madragoa (9 times) and Bica (7<br />
times). However, Graça, Ajuda, Carnide, Bela Flor,<br />
Mouraria, Lumiar, Bairro Alto, Olivais, Campolide, S.<br />
Vicente, Marvila, Benfica, Castelo, Alto do Pina, Alcântara,<br />
Beato and the groups representing the Markets, all put<br />
up some fierce competition. The Children’s March<br />
organised by the Voz do Operário, although not part<br />
of the competition, is one of the highlights of the<br />
parade, going by the applause of the crowds lined up<br />
along the Avenida da Liberdade.<br />
The judging of the parade takes place at the Atlantic<br />
Pavilion, at the Park of Nations.<br />
The Marchas Populares began in 1932 and the Popular<br />
Saints Celebrations are ranked 19th amongst the 50<br />
best European festivals, coming just after such well<br />
known European events as the Aalborg Carnaval, in<br />
Denmark and the Tomatina (Tomato Festival) in Spain,<br />
on a list headed by the Fallas de Valência.<br />
20 _<br />
21
COMPANHIA NACIONAL DE BAILADO<br />
CLASSICAL<br />
AND<br />
MODERN<br />
BALLET<br />
Set up in 1977, the Companhia Nacional de Bailado is<br />
Portugal’s leading dance company. Throughout its 30<br />
years of existence, it has been responsible for the first<br />
national productions of classical ballets such as Swan<br />
Lake, Romeo and Juliet, Giselle, The Firebird, The Nut<br />
Cracker Suite and The Consecration of Spring. It has<br />
also presented works by modern and contemporary<br />
creators such as Balanchine, Lifar, Limon, Forsythe,<br />
Keersmaeker, amongst others. In relation to Portuguese<br />
choreographers, its repertory includes works by<br />
Armando Jorge, Fernando Lima, Carlos Trincheiras and<br />
Olga Roriz.<br />
Besides its regular tours in Portugal, the Companhia<br />
Nacional de Bailado has performed in Spain, France,<br />
Switzerland, Germany, Brazil and China.<br />
With its Turkish artistic director, Mehmet Balkan, the<br />
CNB and its corps of 80 ballerinas has worked regularly<br />
with the Portuguese Symphonic Orchestra, the Lisboa<br />
Metropolitan Orchestra and the Porto National<br />
Orchestra. It is based at the Camões Theatre at the Park<br />
of Nations.<br />
In May and June, the Companhia Nacional de Bailado<br />
performed A Midsummer Night’s Dream. The Company<br />
then began a national tour of the ballet, taking it to<br />
Coimbra, Porto, Évora, Alcobaça, Figueira da Foz, Faro,<br />
Serpa and Aveiro.<br />
In November, when it returns to Lisbon, it will present<br />
Dançar (Dance) a work by Hans von Manen, and in<br />
December, D. Quixote.<br />
Teatro Camões<br />
Passeio de Neptuno<br />
Park of Nations<br />
Tel.: 21 892 36 70<br />
30 _<br />
31
JOÃO LAGOS<br />
Organiser of sports events<br />
MY LISBOA<br />
“The magnificent light<br />
of Lisboa”<br />
Lisboa is my <strong>city</strong>, where I was born and<br />
which I learned to explore and love from<br />
my childhood. At that time, it was a<br />
much calmer <strong>city</strong> than it is today, with<br />
the trams travelling up and down the<br />
hills, and the boys playing football out<br />
on the street, or on some terrace,<br />
chasing after a cloth ball, which didn’t<br />
bounce as much and was easier to<br />
control. I owe my love of sport to Lisboa<br />
because that’s where it all began.<br />
Today the <strong>city</strong> has grown, modernised<br />
itself, but the light has remained<br />
unaltered. The magnificent light of<br />
Lisboa, on the rooftops and the pale<br />
coloured houses, the marvellous<br />
riverside and the <strong>city</strong> which stretches<br />
down to the edge of the Tagus, are all<br />
what make Lisboa so unique and<br />
unrepeatable.<br />
The whole <strong>city</strong> faces towards the river,<br />
to the south, and at midday, it is filled<br />
with light, giving it a joyful air, which<br />
warms the houses and their inhabitants.<br />
Lisboa is today, as it always has been, a<br />
gentle, agreeable <strong>city</strong>, enjoyable to walk<br />
around, whether it be through the<br />
streets of the old neighbourhoods which<br />
meander up the hills, or along the<br />
modern riverside area, where we can<br />
find a vast array of bars, restaurants and<br />
shops, ready to satisfy any tastes and<br />
any budgets. I confess that this is my<br />
favourite area of Lisboa, because of the<br />
light, because of the wide-open views,<br />
and it’s here that I would like to take<br />
you, the reader, when you come to visit<br />
our <strong>city</strong>.<br />
The Belém area/ the Jerónimos<br />
Monastery: There is certainly a lot to see<br />
at the Jerónimos Monastery, which any<br />
guidebook can tell you about much<br />
better than I can. But, walk towards<br />
Belém (even before the famous Pastéis<br />
de Belém, that you absolutely cannot<br />
miss) and explore the Tropical Gardens.<br />
These are beautiful, spacious and<br />
extremely quiet. Leaving them, go down<br />
towards the river, crossing the Praça do<br />
Império on foot, and you will find an<br />
underpass that brings you out directly<br />
in front of the Monument to the<br />
Discoveries. This monument, along with<br />
the Tower of Belém, definitely deserves<br />
a visit and you will find detailed<br />
descriptions in all the guidebooks.<br />
However, you should also know that<br />
there is a great restaurant just 2 steps<br />
away, which is the Vela Latina. If you<br />
can, choose the restaurant section and<br />
not the terrace, otherwise you will have<br />
your back to the river. The menu<br />
certainly has excellent fresh fish cooked<br />
to suit your choice and neither will you<br />
remain indifferent to the wine list.<br />
Having eaten, return by the pedestrian<br />
footbridge and visit the Belém Cultural<br />
Centre which stages some of the best<br />
cultural events that Europe has to offer.<br />
Architecturally, the building is very<br />
interesting and its contents are very<br />
varied. There is an excellent view of the<br />
river from the esplanade. There are also<br />
various options for shopping and eating.<br />
Continuing on our journey: just two<br />
steps away from the same place is the<br />
Maritime Museum, which has a lot to<br />
tell about the Portuguese and the sea.<br />
After that, the Planetarium, an<br />
extraordinary display and a chance for<br />
a rest in a comfortable chair looking at<br />
the night sky of Lisboa.<br />
Imagining that you will want to go out<br />
on this particular night, I have some<br />
more suggestions: head along the<br />
riverfront, but take something warm<br />
because the night can be chilly.<br />
In Santa Apolónia there is the restaurant<br />
Bica do Sapato, which will certainly<br />
exceed your expectations: ask your hotel<br />
to reserve you a decent table so you<br />
won’t run the risk of having to eat late.<br />
If you feel like dancing you have Lux just<br />
nearby. Getting in might seem a bit<br />
restrictive but it’s for your own comfort.<br />
Dress up in your best “fashion style” and<br />
they’ll certainly let you in.<br />
If you prefer something more local, you<br />
have the Docas where, bar after bar,<br />
restaurant after restaurant, will guarantee<br />
you a fun and a well-spent night.<br />
If you can last the pace until dawn, I<br />
leave you with two final suggestions:<br />
watch the sun come up from the<br />
Adamastor gardens in the Santa Catarina<br />
neighbourhood or from the Portas do<br />
Sol, near the Castle, and you will<br />
understand what I mean about the light<br />
of Lisboa.<br />
Welcome to my <strong>city</strong>!<br />
FROM SARDINES…<br />
Another of Lisboa’s urban rituals is the<br />
celebration of Saint Martin’s day, on 11th<br />
November. According to tradition, at this<br />
time of year, chestnuts are roasted and<br />
the new wine tasted. As a sign that winter<br />
has arrived, the <strong>city</strong> fills up with street<br />
vendors selling roast chestnuts. The white<br />
smoke billowing from the fire, the strong<br />
but pleasant smell, the crackling of the<br />
salt thrown on to the chestnuts, all help<br />
to warm the souls of passers by, who<br />
interrupt their hurried pace to buy a<br />
dozen, wrapped up in a typical cone<br />
made of newspaper. “Hot and tasty…<br />
Hot and tasty”, cry the street vendors.<br />
Roast chestnuts, just like sardines, have<br />
to be eaten hot from the coals.<br />
According to tradition, the festas de São<br />
Every year, the people of Lisboa greet<br />
the beginning of Summer by “decreeing”<br />
the opening of the sardine season. Taking<br />
advantage of the warm nights, ideal for<br />
eating out in the open-air, the alfacinhas<br />
(an affectionate term for natives of Lisboa,<br />
meaning baby lettuces) commemorate<br />
the 13th June, the day of their patron<br />
saint, Saint Anthony, with a series of<br />
initiatives in which grilled sardines are<br />
an essential feature.<br />
The marchas populares, a costumed<br />
parade of the traditional<br />
neighbourhoods down the Avenida da<br />
Liberdade, arraiais (street parties) at the<br />
Castelo, Graça, Mouraria and the Alfama,<br />
and the Lisboa nights buzzing with light,<br />
colour and music.<br />
From the very old to the very young,<br />
from the most traditional to the most<br />
fashionable, at this time of year all the<br />
alfacinhas have one thing in common,<br />
which brings them all together in the<br />
same space in cheerful interaction –<br />
grilled sardines.<br />
Accompanied by red wine or beer, eaten<br />
with boiled potatoes moistened with<br />
olive oil and a salad of lettuce, tomatoes<br />
and peppers, the sardines are grilled and<br />
eaten hot, preferably on a piece of bread,<br />
which absorbs the oil. The final treat is<br />
to eat the piece of bread, which has been<br />
soaked with the juice of ten, twelve or<br />
even more sardines…. A typical<br />
Mediterranean diet.<br />
Where can you eat this typical Lisboa<br />
dish? In hundreds of places, from the<br />
more classical restaurants, in modern<br />
areas, to the local taverns, in the old<br />
neighbourhoods of the <strong>city</strong>. If you can,<br />
try eating the sardines in the open air –<br />
this is more in line with the spirit of the<br />
dish, and the strong smell (possibly the<br />
only inconvenience) evaporates more<br />
rapidly.<br />
… TO CHESTNUTS<br />
Martinho (Saint Martin’s celebrations),<br />
are rooted in pagan times. They include<br />
the roasting of chestnuts, the sampling<br />
of the wine in the wine cellars (of which<br />
the água-pé, a wine lower in alcohol, is<br />
the preferred choice for the occasion)<br />
and jumping over the bonfire. This is a<br />
social occasion for all generations and it<br />
is called the magusto, the time of rest,<br />
after the intense harvest period for the<br />
wine in September and October.<br />
Before the advent of the potato in<br />
Europe, which spread to its far corners<br />
(17th century), the chestnut was part of<br />
the essential diet, especially in the<br />
countryside. Besides roasting, it can be<br />
boiled, puréed, used in soups, sweets<br />
etc.<br />
How to prepare chestnuts<br />
for roasting?<br />
Wet them (this helps the salt to stick<br />
to them). Make a cut in each of them.<br />
Add the salt. Add some herbs (this<br />
increases the flavour). Place them in<br />
the fire (or on a tray in the oven, or<br />
on a grill).<br />
A quarter of an hour later, the<br />
chestnuts will be roasted.<br />
22 _<br />
23
EXPERIMENTADESIGN<br />
THE CITY’S LEADING CULTURAL EVENT<br />
LISBOA’S DESIGN<br />
BIENNIAL<br />
The fourth edition of Experimentadesign takes place from the<br />
15th September to the 30th October in Lisboa. This is the<br />
most recent biennial of European design that in just seven<br />
years has become the biggest, regular, cultural event in<br />
Portugal, earning worldwide recognition.<br />
The 2005 edition of Experimentadesign, once again<br />
working in partnership with the Lisboa Municipal<br />
Council and with the support of the Portuguese Ministry<br />
of Culture, is centred around the theme “The Medium<br />
is the Matter”.<br />
According to the organisers, this year’s theme completes<br />
a cycle. In 2001, the biennial focused on “Modus<br />
Operandi”, reflecting an interest in specific ways of<br />
producing culture in the different areas of design, art<br />
and architecture. In 2003, the subject for reflection was<br />
“Beyond Consumption” and was related to the position<br />
of the consumer, spectator and user. Now, “The Medium<br />
is the Matter” will focus on the medium and the<br />
materials used for transmission in the stage between<br />
creator and receiver. The discussion will centre on the<br />
means of communication and communicative objects<br />
– a realm where sometimes the matter seems less<br />
important than the message it conveys, and in which<br />
the interaction between those who create and those<br />
who receive becomes the actual product.<br />
SUNDIALS IN LISBOA<br />
FOLLOWING<br />
THE SHADOW<br />
OF<br />
This marked the discovery of the basic principles of<br />
gnomonics (from the Greek gnomon, the pointer, which<br />
casts the shadow). Gnomonics is the science which<br />
studies ways of measuring time by using the Sun. Man<br />
was soon replaced by a stick in the ground, and the<br />
movement of the shadow led to the idea of the first<br />
“dial”. Combining the astrological observation of the<br />
skies (for religious motives) with the first rudiments of<br />
spatial direction – East, West, North, South - the religious<br />
elite constructed carefully positioned megalithic<br />
structures in many parts of the world. Stonehenge is<br />
the most famous example of these stone circles.<br />
However, many more of this species of giant sundial<br />
exist throughout Europe, Portugal included, stretching<br />
as far as the Atlantic, and at certain times of the year<br />
they still mark the time of solstices and equinoxes.<br />
Gnomonics was first developed by the Chaldeans, then<br />
the Greeks and later the Romans. The first nonmegalithic<br />
sundials arrived in the territory that is<br />
Portugal today through the Roman occupation (218<br />
BC. – 409 AD.) and examples of these are still being<br />
found. With the Middle Ages and the occupation of<br />
TIME<br />
the Iberian Peninsular by invaders coming from the<br />
north, gnomonics , along with many other areas of<br />
knowledge, disappeared. With the Arab occupation<br />
which followed, it was still not used. Only when the<br />
Christian forces began to reconquer the territory, with<br />
the help of the religious orders, particularly the<br />
Benedictines, did gnomonics enjoy a renaissance. In<br />
the early days of the Portuguese expansion, gnomonics<br />
was very much used in the art of navigating, although<br />
it wasn’t able to provide the answer to the principle<br />
question – the discovery of the longitude at sea (which<br />
was only resolved through mechanical watches). But,<br />
still today, in Portuguese museums (the Maritime<br />
Museum, in the area of Belém, is one of them), one can<br />
find many portable sundials. These are usually finely<br />
carved in ivory and capable of providing the time in<br />
Paris or Rome, London, Hamburg or Lisboa.<br />
However, it was during the Baroque period, that sundials<br />
enjoyed a surge in popularity – with the money from<br />
gold from Brazil, the monarch at the time, King João V,<br />
furnished almost all the monasteries and convents in<br />
Portugal with sundials. Moreover, the nobility ordered<br />
beautiful sundials for their palaces and estates. Most<br />
of these have already been removed from their original<br />
sites, but others have remained in tact.<br />
There are vertical, horizontal and equatorial sundials<br />
and sundials for solstices, or sundials that incorporate<br />
all of these. Lisboa also has sundials in public places.<br />
We would like to challenge all those visiting the <strong>city</strong> to<br />
discover them. They are usually very beautiful pieces,<br />
which often go unnoticed in an age in which time<br />
rushes by and there isn’t enough of it to appreciate the<br />
evolution of the shadow of the Sun… Have you ever<br />
noticed that the Sé de Lisboa (Lisboa Cathedral) has a<br />
sundial?<br />
Above, on the opposite page, are some examples of<br />
Lisboa’s gnomonics. These are just a few of them, but<br />
there are others out there waiting for you.<br />
28 _<br />
29
RUA DE CAMPOLIDE, PRIVATE HOUSE AMOREIRAS, ANADIA PALACE AMOREIRAS, MÃE DE ÁGUA SÃO SEBASTIÃO DA PEDREIRA, CHURCH OF SÃO SEBASTIÃO DA PEDREIRA<br />
Text: Fernando Correia de Oliveira<br />
Photos: Jorge Correia Santos<br />
The first natural rhythm that Man became aware of was<br />
the sequence of day into night. He then began to<br />
appreciate the more subtle rhythms of nature with the<br />
perceptible changes of the seasons. By observing its<br />
movement, primitive man understood that sometimes<br />
the Sun made a higher and sometimes a lower curve<br />
on the horizon, from East to West. With the emergence<br />
of Agriculture, and the settling of humans in one place,<br />
primitive societies developed a more palpable<br />
relationship with time – imitating the rhythms of nature.<br />
There was a period for sowing seed, a period of waiting<br />
for the plants to grow, a period for gathering or<br />
harvesting the produce, a period of rest for all nature,<br />
when it appeared to have died, only to surge to life<br />
again. Through variations in the height of the Sun and<br />
the changes of the seasons, Man was able to understand<br />
the period of the year. Moreover, a certain class, the<br />
elite who observed the sky and guarded this knowledge,<br />
began to work out a calendar. This became an<br />
instrument of power, whatever the society or the times.<br />
In order to measure the time of one day, almost<br />
instinctively, man began measuring his own shadow<br />
cast on the ground. When the Sun reached its highest<br />
point – the zenith of a certain place – the shadow was<br />
shorter, expanding and diminishing before and after,<br />
respectively.<br />
Since 1999, Experimentadesign has been building an<br />
international platform in Lisboa. This has been geared<br />
towards reflection and experimentation, as well as<br />
raising awareness of the importance of design in it its<br />
many different forms, not only within the context of<br />
Portuguese society, but also internationally.<br />
Design as a creative activity, responsible for producing<br />
the most adequate responses to the needs of<br />
contemporary society has been Experimentadesign’s<br />
focus of attention. The economic, ecological,<br />
technological, sociological aspects of design, within<br />
the specialised areas of interior design, architecture,<br />
photography, new media, dance, visual arts, cinema,<br />
fashion design and web design, will once again be the<br />
subject of discussion as part of the creative process of<br />
the Lisboa Biennial.<br />
The week of the 15th to 18th September, which<br />
inaugurates Experimentadesign 2005, will be an<br />
authentic whirlwind of events, from exhibitions to<br />
conferences, in which the various creative disciplines<br />
will be represented by guests from all over the world.<br />
The exhibitions “Catalysts!”, “My World, New Crafts”,<br />
“S’Cool Ibérica”, “Architecture and Design of Portugal<br />
1990-2004” and “Casa Portuguesa” (Portuguese House),<br />
among others, will be accompanied by the series,<br />
Conferences of Lisboa, in which specialists and<br />
practitioners from the international arena of design<br />
and the various disciplines included within the Biennial<br />
will speak and participate in debates. These will take<br />
place in the Belém Cultural Centre and at the Palácio<br />
Pombal (Chiado).<br />
As usual, the Biennial with have a Lounging Space at<br />
the Palácio de Santa Catarina. This will be open during<br />
the 45 days of Experimentadesign, and will provide a<br />
place for the general public to get information, enjoy<br />
a drink at the bar and buy publications and<br />
merchandising goods.<br />
The 2003 Biennial had around 150 thousand visitors,<br />
almost double the number in 2001 and ten times that<br />
of the 1999 edition. It is expected that the<br />
Experimentadesign 2005 will beat new records in public<br />
attendance.<br />
For further details:<br />
www.experimentadesign.pt.<br />
“The most recent biennial of European design has<br />
received world recognition, thanks to the extreme<br />
professionalism of its organisers and creators […] As a<br />
unique regular event in the field of theoretical reflection<br />
on design, Experimenta has already assumed a crucial<br />
role in discovering new forms of repositioning the<br />
culture of design as a point of strategic balance between<br />
economic capa<strong>city</strong> and cultural identity”.<br />
IN MODEM – THE INTERNATIONAL DESIGN REFERENCE<br />
GUIDE (PARIS), 2003<br />
“[…] it has managed to establish something like a<br />
private centre for design. It is completely independent<br />
and promotes national design both in cultural terms,<br />
as well as in economic terms. In short, it does exactly<br />
what the 16 German design centres do. But with one<br />
fundamental difference: it is much more successful”.<br />
IN FORM (GERMANY), Jan/Feb 2004<br />
24 _<br />
25
MODA LISBOA<br />
In only a very short time, a dynamic team<br />
of young designers and entrepreneurs<br />
have established a vast universe of<br />
Portuguese products and concepts,<br />
under the umbrella label, “Moda Lisboa”.<br />
What began 12 years ago as a fashion<br />
show, has turned into a galaxy of events,<br />
support for artists and the exportation<br />
of the image of a modern and<br />
cosmopolitan Portugal.<br />
Aforest-Design, Alexandra Moura,<br />
Alves/Gonçalves, Ana Salazar, Anabela<br />
Baldaque, Cheyenne, Dino Alves, José<br />
António Tenente, Katty Xiomara, Lanidor,<br />
Lidija Kolovrat, Lion of Porches, Luís<br />
Buchino, Maria Gambina, Miguel Vieira,<br />
Nuno Baltazar, Osvaldo Martins, Pedro<br />
Mourão, Ricardo Dourado and Story<br />
Tailors are all designers sponsored by<br />
Moda Lisboa. Information about them<br />
can be found on the site<br />
www.moda<strong>lisboa</strong>.pt.<br />
On the site, tourists can access<br />
information, which includes much more<br />
than just fashion. In the Design section,<br />
there are pieces by Fernando Brízio,<br />
Marco Sousa Santos, Miguel Vieira<br />
Baptista and Ricardo Mealha/Ana Cunha.<br />
Portuguese products, from china to<br />
soaps, through to glass, cork and cutlery<br />
are also connected to this creative<br />
national universe.<br />
In art, names such as Ana Jotta, Joana<br />
Vasconcelos or Noé Sendas display their<br />
most recent work. The site also houses<br />
the more traditional handicrafts,<br />
alongside the very latest creations in this<br />
area – Aliança Artesanal, Cecília Povoas<br />
and Santos Ofícios are suggestions for<br />
those wanting to acquire something of<br />
the spirit of Portugal.<br />
The label is gaining recognition<br />
internationally and has already carried<br />
out initiatives promoting Portuguese<br />
fashion and design in Madrid, Paris,<br />
London, Milan, Tokyo and New York. This<br />
October it celebrates its 25th edition.<br />
FÁTIMA LOPES LENA AIRES<br />
A WORLD<br />
AT THE REACH OF A<br />
CLICK<br />
In the last decade, two areas in Lisboa have<br />
begun “specialising” in cutting edge fashion<br />
and design shops. The Bairro Alto/Chiado<br />
area and Santos, near the river. From small<br />
shops to larger stores, in a young and<br />
cosmopolitan environment, this is where<br />
the showcase for Portuguese creativity can<br />
be found. It’s also in these areas that you<br />
can find most of Lisboa’s cyber cafés. In<br />
Santos, for example, the Fundação<br />
Portuguesa das Comunicações (Rua do<br />
Instituto Industrial, 15) has a Multimedia<br />
Centre, where any visitor can easily access<br />
the site, Moda Lisboa.<br />
With the comfort of the net, a visit to the<br />
site Moda Lisboa opens up a world of<br />
creativity, and gives you some suggestions<br />
for the best you can buy and the most<br />
genuine in terms of Portuguese creativity.<br />
Click onto www.moda<strong>lisboa</strong>.pt and give<br />
yourself a pleasant surprise.<br />
NEW<br />
HOTEL IN<br />
CHIADO<br />
The most recent “boutique” hotel has just opened in<br />
the heart of the historic, cultural and commercial centre<br />
of Lisboa. This is the Bairro Alto Hotel, a building which<br />
has preserved its classical Portuguese facade. It has 55<br />
rooms and suites, equipped with the latest technology<br />
(access to the Internet, HI-FI system, TV with LCD/DVD).<br />
With the wind in your hair, enjoy the agility of a vehicle<br />
that can dodge just about any traffic jam. Moving at its<br />
own pace, the sidecar is a way of travelling around<br />
Lisboa and its surroundings. From the top of the hills<br />
to the bottom of the valleys. From the banks of the<br />
Tagus to the north flank of the <strong>city</strong>, along the wide<br />
avenues and the narrow streets of the old<br />
neighbourhoods. Through the mountains of Sintra or<br />
of Arrábida. Stopping your sidecar where you want to,<br />
for a meal, to take some photographs or to watch a<br />
romantic sunset…<br />
A drive around Lisboa, along the Estoril Coast or through<br />
the Mountains of Sintra and Arrábida, is what Sidecar<br />
Touring Co proposes. A journey reliving the 40’s, when<br />
motorbikes and sidecars were at the peak of their<br />
popularity. Without any particular hurry and at your<br />
own pace, the driver can take you through the most<br />
The hotel also has the Restaurant Flores (inspired by<br />
Romanticism), the Café Bar Garrett, a fitness room,<br />
underground car park and excellent access served by<br />
trams, buses and the underground.<br />
Bairro Alto Hotel<br />
Praça Luís de Camões, nº 8<br />
1200-243 Lisboa<br />
Tel.: (351) 21 340 8222<br />
e-mail:<br />
reservations@bairroaltohotel.com<br />
website:<br />
www.bairroaltohotel.com<br />
A DIFFERENT WAY OF GETTING TO KNOW LISBOA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS<br />
ONBOARD A<br />
SIDECAR<br />
famous streets of the <strong>city</strong>, stopping when and where<br />
you want to in order to enjoy the best that Lisboa can<br />
offer.<br />
If you happen to be a nature lover, however, then you<br />
can roll along the Estoril Coast, towards the Sintra<br />
Mountains, in a replica of the mythical Second World<br />
War sidecar, the BMW R71, or in a model from a more<br />
recent era. There you can feel the breezes and scents<br />
of century-old roads, culminating in the town of Sintra.<br />
Besides the various standard tours that STC has to offer,<br />
there are also trips especially designed for children<br />
from the age of 7, upwards. These include visits to the<br />
Oceanarium, the Zoo or the Toy Museum.<br />
This is the ideal way of travelling around, without the<br />
usual sight restrictions. Sidecars are also very popular<br />
with people who suffer from problems with physical<br />
mobility, who can enjoy a discount of 20%.<br />
For more information, visit www.sidecartouring.co.pt<br />
or tel. 963 965 105.<br />
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