VILNIUS - In Your Pocket
VILNIUS - In Your Pocket
VILNIUS - In Your Pocket
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°107 - 6Lt<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>VILNIUS</strong><br />
August - November 2012<br />
20<br />
Europe’s best city<br />
guides for more than<br />
20 years<br />
<strong>In</strong>side<br />
A fully updated, impartial scrutiny<br />
of the best things Vilnius has to<br />
offer visitors for the next four months<br />
Plus<br />
Things to see and do in<br />
Keturiasdešimt Totorių
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving in Vilnius 6<br />
Because it’s not as easy as you think<br />
Basics 6<br />
A quick cultural primer<br />
History 9<br />
A mind-boggling millennium<br />
Events 9<br />
Just the ticket<br />
Culture 13<br />
Art, ballet, cinema, photography and more<br />
Where to stay 16<br />
A bed for all budgets<br />
Dining & Nightlife<br />
Restaurants 24<br />
From cepelinai to sushi<br />
Visit the strange and beautiful past of Lithuania’s Islamic<br />
heritage in the tiny village of Keturiasdešimt Totorių some<br />
20km south of Vilnius. Find everything you need to know<br />
on p.61.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Contents<br />
Live music at Vienuolyno Kiemas.<br />
Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, who’ve finally realised<br />
the potential of the city centre’s empty spaces and<br />
consequently stuffed great big outdoor bars in several of<br />
them. This may seem somewhat passé to many a reader,<br />
but for the locals it’s literally a breath of fresh air. Find a<br />
selection of the most interesting on p.44<br />
Cafés 33<br />
Where to find the best espresso<br />
Nightlife<br />
Beer, clubs and a little bit of nakedness<br />
44<br />
Sightseeing<br />
A fully comprehensive guide<br />
54<br />
Getting around<br />
When walking isn’t enough<br />
68<br />
Mail & Phones<br />
Directory<br />
73<br />
Shopping 74<br />
Lifestyle 84<br />
Health 88<br />
Sport & Leisure 90<br />
Business<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
92<br />
Country map 93<br />
Street register 94<br />
City centre map 95<br />
City map 96<br />
<strong>In</strong>dex 98<br />
August - November 2012<br />
3
4 Foreword<br />
As we go to press at the end of July the Gulf Stream<br />
continues to act like a spoilt child, refusing to<br />
share its toys and generally making a mockery<br />
of the word summer. On behalf of Mother Nature,<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> would like to apologise for<br />
the gross inconvenience caused so far this year.<br />
Every cloud has a silver lining however, and the<br />
good news is that not only are you now reading a<br />
fully updated guide to everything you need to know<br />
about Vilnius for the next four months, the weather<br />
is set to improve, making the city’s glorious parks<br />
and gardens (see p.65) more tempting than ever.<br />
For those who need more from their lives than<br />
eating, drinking and chasing girls, we’ve also<br />
cobbled together a small feature about the tiny<br />
rural village of Keturiasdešimt Totorių (see p.61),<br />
where the residents once wrote Belarusian using<br />
the Arabic script and that still boasts a marvellous<br />
little mosque and cemetery. And you thought Vilnius<br />
was Lithuanian. Think again! Have a smashing<br />
time in Vilnius everyone, be good and come back<br />
soon. Enjoy the rest of the summer and the rest<br />
of this guide. Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> welcomes all<br />
comments, suggestions, death threats, marriage<br />
proposals and anything else you can throw at us<br />
as usual. Write to us at vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
and see you again in December.<br />
Cover story<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Bernardinų 9-4<br />
Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01124<br />
mob. (+370) 610 468 64<br />
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76<br />
fax (+370) 5 212 29 82<br />
vilnius@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1392-0057<br />
©UAB “VIYP”<br />
Printed by UAB “Lietuvos ryto”<br />
spaustuvė<br />
Published three times per year<br />
Print run 20,000<br />
Two tourists snapping images<br />
of the Cathedral-Basilica<br />
of St. Stanislaus & St.<br />
Ladislaus. Read about other<br />
famous and not-so famous<br />
things to see and visit in<br />
our What to see section<br />
on p.54.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Sco<br />
Research Vaida Kursevičiūtė<br />
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė<br />
Cover Richard Schofield<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
Publisher Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
General Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė<br />
Accounting VšĮ “ACORDO”<br />
Sales Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė<br />
This guidebook and all of our other<br />
Lithuanian guides are available for sale<br />
from kiosks, tourist information centres,<br />
the Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> office and other<br />
outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as<br />
well as online at www.inyourpocket.com.<br />
Complimentary copies of Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> are also available in many hotels.<br />
The World of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Northern<br />
Ireland<br />
Ireland<br />
Netherlands<br />
Germany<br />
Poland<br />
Belgium<br />
Czech<br />
Republic<br />
Austria<br />
Switzerland<br />
Slovenia<br />
Romania<br />
Croatia<br />
Italy Bosnia<br />
Serbia<br />
Bulgaria<br />
Montenegro Kosovo<br />
FYR Macedonia<br />
Albania<br />
Greece<br />
It was 20 years ago this summer that the first <strong>In</strong><br />
<strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania.<br />
Since then, we have grown to become the largest<br />
publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe.<br />
We now cover more than 75 cities across the<br />
continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to<br />
be pocketed) and the number of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
guides published each year is approaching an<br />
amazing five million.<br />
Always an innovative publisher, we have just<br />
launched a new version of our iPhone app, which<br />
can be downloaded for free from the AppStore.<br />
Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name.<br />
To keep up to date with all that’s new at <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong>, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/<br />
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/<br />
inyourpocket).<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Estonia<br />
Russia<br />
Latvia<br />
Lithuania<br />
Belarus<br />
Ukraine<br />
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP<br />
1992-2012; some photos, LATGA-A;<br />
maps, cartographer. All rights reserved.<br />
No part of this publication may be<br />
reproduced in any form, except brief<br />
extracts for the purpose of review,<br />
without written permission from the<br />
publisher and copyright owner. The brand<br />
name <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is used under license<br />
from UAB <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> (Bernardinų 9-4,<br />
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers’ comments and suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the information at the<br />
time of going to press and assume no<br />
responsibility for changes and errors.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
6 BasiCs<br />
Arriving in Vilnius<br />
Buy a print copy of Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> inside the<br />
airport, bus and train station for just 6Lt. If you’re coming<br />
into the city by public transport, see the information about<br />
major changes to the ticket system in the city on p.68.<br />
By bus Vilnius’ rather dreary bus station (autobusų stotis)<br />
is located less than 1km south of Old Town in a less than<br />
salubrious, albeit perfectly safe area. Not really geared up<br />
for foreign arrivals, most facilities are located inside one<br />
grey building and include kiosks and shops selling maps,<br />
cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, downstairs<br />
toilets (1Lt) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency exchange,<br />
use the Citadele bank across the street inside the train<br />
station. A bagažinė for left luggage is located at the far end<br />
of the platforms. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few<br />
minutes by turning left on exiting the station and walking<br />
down Sodų. Many buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can<br />
be found in the immediate area, all going off in different<br />
directions around the city. Among the useful trolleybuses<br />
going through the city centre are Nº2 and 5. Buy a ticket<br />
from the driver for 2.50Lt. Taxis are parked up in a number<br />
of places. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave.<br />
Expect to pay 20Lt or even more for a short trip to Old<br />
Town. Calling one in advance is the best option.<br />
By plane Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus<br />
Oro Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if<br />
you’re landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities<br />
are quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting<br />
your luggage find a compact arrivals hall complete with a<br />
kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile<br />
phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange offices and a small<br />
tourist information kiosk (Open 09:00 – 21:00). Toilets are<br />
to the right, and car rental companies to the left. Getting<br />
to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked<br />
outside the arrivals terminal will cost about 80Lt. Calling<br />
one in advance will cost considerably less. If you don’t<br />
know how to do it yourself ask the people in the tourist<br />
information kiosk to order one for you. If you’re travelling to<br />
the centre and don’t mind roughing it with the locals, save<br />
a small fortune and take public transport. The bus stop<br />
is to the left of the taxi stand. Bus Nº1 goes to the train<br />
station and bus Nº2 to Lukiškių Aikštė and north over the<br />
river past the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. A timetable is<br />
posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt.<br />
Alternatively, hop on a train and in less than 10 minutes<br />
be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket<br />
on board for just 2Lt. The airport train station can be found<br />
along the road outside the main exit and on the left. Trains<br />
leave every hour or so from around 06:00 until 21:30, with<br />
a journey time of just seven minutes.<br />
By train The train station (geležinkelio stotis) is fairly<br />
large by local standards and unfortunately not very well<br />
signposted in English. Find kiosks and shops for snacks,<br />
maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scattered<br />
in and around the building, free toilets downstairs,<br />
ATM’s and a 24-hour Citadele bank outside to the left for<br />
changing money. The train station also has a small tourist<br />
information kiosk, which among other things features<br />
friendly staff who speak English. Getting to town Get<br />
to Old Town in a few minutes by going straight ahead<br />
on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sodų).<br />
The train station is just across the street from the bus<br />
station. See By bus for more information about getting<br />
to the centre by public transport.<br />
Exchange rates<br />
€1=3.45Lt £1=4.39Lt US$1=2.84Lt<br />
Alcohol<br />
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light,<br />
crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and<br />
you’re recommended to test a few before settling on a<br />
regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the<br />
magnificent Švyturys from Klaipėda, Utenos from Utena and<br />
Kalnapilis from Panevėžys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius can’t<br />
claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made in the<br />
capital you’ll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see Nightlife).<br />
Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than their<br />
Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest<br />
words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple of the<br />
most lethal. <strong>In</strong> Old Town expect to pay somewhere in the<br />
region of 5-10Lt for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtinė)<br />
is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto<br />
at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the<br />
more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century Polish-<br />
Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with<br />
apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater,<br />
samagonas, available through the right connections. Take<br />
note that imported alcohol isn’t cheap. Don’t go falling into<br />
the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is giveaway<br />
everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid<br />
an embarrassingly large bill at the end of the evening. At the<br />
time of writing it was illegal to buy alcohol in shops between<br />
22:00 and 08:00 anywhere in Lithuania, one of the country’s<br />
more cynical pieces of legislation that does nothing except<br />
penalise the country’s poor.<br />
Borders<br />
Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia,<br />
Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the<br />
ashes of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that<br />
is Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements<br />
have as good as removed all border formalities with<br />
Latvia and Poland whilst getting in an out of Belarus and<br />
Kaliningrad remains wrapped up in red tape for holders of<br />
most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from the<br />
Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius as well as<br />
from a few travel agencies. Visas for Kaliningrad are now<br />
available if you arrive there by air. For more information<br />
about getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at<br />
www.pasienis.lt.<br />
Basic data<br />
(July 26, 2012)<br />
Population Lithuania 3,184,054 Vilnius 541,113<br />
Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 83.7%<br />
Poles 6.6% Russians 5.3% Belarusians 1.3% Ukrainians<br />
0.6% Others 3.3%<br />
Territory 65,303km 2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium,<br />
and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,<br />
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest<br />
distance is 276km, east to west is 373km<br />
Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia<br />
453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km<br />
Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)<br />
Largest lake Drūkščiai 4,479ha<br />
Highest point Aukštasis 293.8m<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Crime & Safety<br />
Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place<br />
inside the clandestine world of business and politics and<br />
consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor.<br />
Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as<br />
having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing<br />
purses and mobile phones. Don’t leave valuables in unattended<br />
pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting<br />
robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did<br />
anybody any harm, and you’re advised not to flaunt your wallet in<br />
stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth<br />
by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. Walk tall, look<br />
like you know what you’re doing, and you won’t be troubled.<br />
Green-uniformed police (policija) are supposed to be keeping<br />
the peace in Old Town, although finding one when you need is<br />
like looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack.<br />
Customs<br />
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import<br />
restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to make<br />
it known if they’re arriving with more than €10,000 worth of<br />
cash. When arriving from non-EU countries you’re entitled<br />
to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine or sixteen<br />
litres of beer. If arriving by air you can bring 200 cigarettes,<br />
100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, a figure that’s<br />
drastically reduced to 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos, 10 cigars<br />
or 50g of tobacco if arriving by any other means. You can’t<br />
bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU except<br />
under certain circumstances. You can’t arrive with live birds<br />
other than pets for non-commercial purposes. Dogs require<br />
vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination).<br />
You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless<br />
it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per<br />
cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece and your<br />
passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, Šnipiškių 3,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 273 42 56. Many of the better antique shops in<br />
Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more<br />
detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for information<br />
on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.<br />
Disabled travellers<br />
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over<br />
the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to<br />
get around on anything other than two well functioning<br />
legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly are<br />
often flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on<br />
cobbled streets. Outside the capital, you’ll be lucky to find<br />
Climate<br />
The climate information below only gives an average<br />
indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures often<br />
plummet to below -20°C.<br />
Temperature, °C<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
-10<br />
-20<br />
J<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Rainfall, mm<br />
100<br />
F M A M J J A S O<br />
N<br />
D<br />
75<br />
50<br />
25<br />
0<br />
Tourist information<br />
BasiCs<br />
Vilnius Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation<br />
(Vilniaus Turizmo<br />
<strong>In</strong>formacijos Centras ir<br />
Konferencijų Biuras) B-2,<br />
Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5<br />
262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262<br />
81 69, tic@vilnius.lt, www.<br />
vilnius-tourism.lt. Tour bookings<br />
for groups and individuals,<br />
audio guides, Vilnius City Card, maps, tourist-related<br />
publications, cultural events (www.vilnius-events.lt), taxi<br />
and accommodation booking. English-, German-, Polish-<br />
and Russian-speaking staff. See their extensive website<br />
for more information. Also at Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), tel.<br />
(+370) 5 262 64 70. Geležinkelio 16 (Train Station),<br />
tel./fax (+370) 5 269 20 91. Šventaragio 2 (Cathedral<br />
Square), Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport),<br />
tel. (+370) 5 230 68 41. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. J<br />
any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The<br />
newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entries, spaces for<br />
wheelchairs, and hearing loops.<br />
Driving<br />
The common or garden Lithuanian driver is notable for possessing<br />
certain eccentric habits almost unheard of in the<br />
West. A typical, edge-of-the-seat adventure sat beside a<br />
local Lewis Hamilton comes with lashings of tailgating, cutting<br />
lanes and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres. It comes as no<br />
great surprise to non-Italian Westerners who’ve been in the<br />
country for more than a couple of days to learn that Lithuania<br />
has the highest rate of road fatalities in the European Union.<br />
If you’re unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident in<br />
which any material or personal damage occurs, you must<br />
leave your vehicle exactly where it is, call the police (tel. 112)<br />
and wait for them to arrive. Even if your car is obstructing the<br />
flow of traffic, don’t move it until the police get there and have<br />
danced about the wreckage with a tape measure and some<br />
lollipops, drawn some little pictures, and given you the all-clear.<br />
Not only is leaving the scene of an accident an offence, but the<br />
lack of an official police report will give insurance companies<br />
the excuse they’re looking for not to pay. Seat belts must be<br />
worn and headlights must be on at all times while driving. All<br />
vehicles must be fitted with a small fire extinguisher and carry<br />
a first-aid kit, a reflective road-side warning triangle and a<br />
reflective safety vest. You must have your vehicle registration<br />
papers and licence with you at all times. During the winter, you’ll<br />
also want to make sure you have an ice scraper and maybe<br />
a brush for getting all the weather off your car before you set<br />
off. Winter tyres are mandatory between November 10 and<br />
April 10. <strong>In</strong> and around town the speed limit is 50km/h unless<br />
indicated otherwise. Elsewhere you can drive at 90km/h on<br />
asphalt roads and 70km/h on dirt roads, and on highways<br />
you can drive at 130km/h until November 1, when you’ll have<br />
to stick to 110km/h.<br />
Electricity<br />
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls<br />
at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round<br />
two-pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still<br />
exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the<br />
plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should<br />
bring an appropriate adaptor, as they’re almost impossible<br />
to find in Lithuania.<br />
August - November 2012<br />
7
8 BasiCs<br />
Language<br />
Lithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the<br />
oldest still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is<br />
supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing<br />
many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With<br />
seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutely<br />
no similarity to anything you’ve ever heard before and<br />
an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in<br />
the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being<br />
understood, getting to grips with the local lingo is at best<br />
tough although there is the advantage when learning it<br />
that it’s bound by rules that simply need to be learnt by<br />
rote. Thankfully, most places where tourists congregate in<br />
the country are now fairly English-friendly, plus Lithuania’s<br />
rich cultural past has left an accumulation of polyglots<br />
nationwide, with Russian spoken almost everywhere,<br />
Polish in and around the capital and German the closer<br />
you get to the coast.<br />
Local time<br />
Lithuania is in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone at<br />
GMT+2hrs. When it’s 12:00 in Vilnius it’s 05:00 in New York,<br />
10:00 in London, 11:00 in Warsaw, 13:00 in Moscow and<br />
19:00 in Tokyo. Eastern European Summer Time (EEST,<br />
GMT+3hrs) falls between the last Sundays of March and<br />
October respectively.<br />
Money & Costs<br />
The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which<br />
comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt<br />
and 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a number of<br />
weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/centų<br />
coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt<br />
to €1. Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept<br />
major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to<br />
any foreigner with money in their account. If you’re planning<br />
a trip to the countryside however, make sure you take plenty<br />
of cash along as it can still be rather old fashioned to say<br />
the least. Vilnius is no longer the cheap city for foreigners<br />
it used to be, although it still offers value to most visitors<br />
from the West. A good night out for two in Vilnius’ Old Town<br />
including a meal in a posh restaurant followed by drinks<br />
in a bar and a club to finish off won’t leave you with much<br />
change, if any change at all, from €100. Most prices have<br />
rocketed of late, although short-term accommodation is still<br />
extremely good value.<br />
Religion<br />
Contemporary Lithuania is a predominantly Catholic country<br />
with almost 80 per cent of the population pledging allegiance<br />
to the Pope. Pagan Lithuanians avoided Christianity until<br />
relatively late in European history, finally converting for<br />
political reasons in 1387 in the eastern half of the country<br />
and in 1413 in the west. The country’s pagan heritage can<br />
still be seen in many aspects of life including the days of<br />
the week (literally First Day, Second Day etc.), the continued<br />
naming of its female population after flowers and plants and<br />
the countless festivals throughout the year that remain very<br />
much as they were before the coming of Christianity. The area<br />
that makes up contemporary Lithuania has historically been<br />
the proud home of countless religions over the centuries,<br />
among them Russian Orthodox, Protestantism, Islam and of<br />
course Judaism, of which the former makes up the second<br />
largest population at just under five per cent. It’s considered<br />
polite for men to remove their hats and women to cover their<br />
shoulders when visiting a Catholic church.<br />
National holidays<br />
January 1 New Year’s Day & National Flag Day<br />
February 16 <strong>In</strong>dependence Day<br />
March 11 Restoration of <strong>In</strong>dependence Day<br />
March 31 (2013) Easter Sunday (Catholic)<br />
April 1 (2013) Easter Monday (Catholic)<br />
May 1 A day off for the workers!<br />
May 5 (2013) Mothers’ Day<br />
June 24 Joninės, or Midsummer<br />
July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas<br />
August 15 Žolinė (Assumption)<br />
November 1 All Saints’ Day<br />
December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)<br />
Service<br />
Anyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed<br />
in Lithuanian life can’t fail to notice just how extraordinarily<br />
indifferent if not just plain rude some public servants can<br />
be. From the middle-aged lady in the post office to the<br />
waitress in the expensive restaurant you’re dining in, don’t<br />
be surprised to get no eye contact, and if you do get eye<br />
contact, don’t be too surprised either to watch those eyes<br />
roll with utter contempt. Even the ever-increasing examples<br />
of friendly service here often come with an ineptitude of<br />
mammoth proportions, so, if you’re sensitive to these things<br />
be prepared to bite your lip and suffer. If there’s a culprit at<br />
work then it’s surely management, from the mandarins who<br />
oversee the large state organisations to the bar owners who<br />
can’t be bothered to train their staff.<br />
Smoking<br />
If it’s Lithuanian and it’s got a lung that works then it probably<br />
smokes. Many popular international cigarette brands are<br />
readily available, and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and<br />
cigarette papers are also reasonably well represented.<br />
Compared to somewhere like the UK, cigarettes in Lithuania<br />
are ridiculously cheap. Lithuania’s pipe-smoking former<br />
Prime Minister Gediminas Kirkilas not so long ago forgot<br />
to remember that smoking is banned in all cafés, bars,<br />
restaurants, and clubs. He should have checked our listings<br />
for venues with special smoking rooms and avoided a<br />
1,000Lt fine.<br />
Toilets<br />
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (where’s the<br />
toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you<br />
use their facilities, although some have started to enforce<br />
a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few<br />
non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with<br />
plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone<br />
by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest<br />
establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next<br />
to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.<br />
Visas<br />
Lithuania is a member of the European Union and the<br />
Schengen area. Visitors from the EU as well as from 30 or<br />
so other countries including Australia, Canada, Japan, New<br />
Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States<br />
don’t require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six<br />
month period. A visa issued for any Schengen country is<br />
also valid in Lithuania. For more information, take a look<br />
at www.urm.lt.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter<br />
the religious fervour of crusading German knights. Lithuania<br />
was the last European country to convert to Christianity,<br />
and has seen countless invasions and occupations over<br />
the centuries.<br />
7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish themselves<br />
on what’s now known as Lithuanian territory.<br />
11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written<br />
texts in AD 1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built<br />
on Vilnius’ Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the<br />
construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it.<br />
13th century Žemaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at<br />
the Battle of Saulė in 1236, establishing the settlement<br />
of Šiauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253<br />
Mindaugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuania’s one<br />
and only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign<br />
of the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority<br />
of the population remains pagan.<br />
14th century <strong>In</strong> 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 1275-<br />
1341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns,<br />
inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius with<br />
the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure peace, in<br />
1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his daughter<br />
Aldona to the Polish king’s son. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth<br />
comes into being with the 1387 Krėva Union,<br />
whereby Gediminas’ grandson Jogaila (circa 1348-1434)<br />
becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess Jadwiga<br />
(circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security,<br />
the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the<br />
1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius.<br />
15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated<br />
on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led by<br />
Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the Battle<br />
of Grunwald (Lithuanian, Žalgiris. German, Tannenberg),<br />
one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The country<br />
flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic<br />
to the Black Sea.<br />
16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural<br />
advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book<br />
in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The<br />
end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political<br />
and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the<br />
state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with Russia<br />
and Sweden drain the Commonwealth’s resources.<br />
18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish<br />
and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. <strong>In</strong> 1795<br />
Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year<br />
Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short liberation<br />
by Napoleon’s army in 1812 on his failed campaign<br />
to Moscow. During the Napoleonic army’s return through<br />
Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation<br />
and extreme cold.<br />
19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent<br />
against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 November<br />
Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution.<br />
Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly<br />
closed, the Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the<br />
country named the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin<br />
script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring<br />
East Prussia. Another uprising takes place in 1863 and<br />
General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to<br />
restore order, resulting in deaths by hanging for most of the<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
20th century<br />
history<br />
leading activists. The repression is countered and defied by<br />
a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. <strong>In</strong> 1883 Jonas<br />
Basanavičius (1851-1927) publishes the first Lithuanianlanguage<br />
newspaper, Auszra (Aušra, or Dawn).<br />
<strong>In</strong>dependence & Beyond<br />
1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sąjūdis is<br />
founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia,<br />
advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August<br />
23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th<br />
anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.October 7 The<br />
Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle.<br />
1989 February 16 Lithuanian <strong>In</strong>dependence Day is officially<br />
commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000<br />
Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human<br />
chain stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to<br />
protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop<br />
Pact.<br />
1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachev’s visit to Vilnius<br />
is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence<br />
demonstrators turn out to ‘welcome’ him. March 4 Proindependence<br />
Sąjūdis candidates receive an overall majority<br />
in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March<br />
11 The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or<br />
Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence<br />
and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas<br />
Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17<br />
Moscow imposes an economic blockade.<br />
During the WWI German<br />
occupation of 1915-<br />
1918 the Lithuanian<br />
Council proclaims independence<br />
on February<br />
16, 1918. As the<br />
Germans retreat, the<br />
Lithuanian state comes<br />
under attack by the Polish General Józef Piłsudski (1867-<br />
1935) who seizes control of Vilnius and areas south of<br />
it from1920-1939. Poland maintains control of these<br />
areas by claiming they were a portion of the pre-war<br />
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes<br />
the interim capital of Lithuania until 1940. During the<br />
inter-war period independent Lithuania prospers under<br />
the 14-year dictatorship (1926-1940) of the nationalist<br />
president Antanas Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian<br />
independence ends with the clandestine signing on August<br />
23, 1939 of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between<br />
Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to<br />
be controlled by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union.<br />
Lithuania is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation.<br />
Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian<br />
henchmen organise the mass murder of over 200,000<br />
Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population. The return of<br />
the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into<br />
the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of<br />
some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task they’d already<br />
begun in 1940 before the Nazis arrived. Lithuanian<br />
partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miško Broliai),<br />
wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. <strong>In</strong> an act of protest<br />
against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19year-old<br />
student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in<br />
public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds.<br />
August - November 2012<br />
9
10 history<br />
1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm<br />
the parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the<br />
delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to<br />
reclaim the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people<br />
are killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to<br />
recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border<br />
guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border<br />
checkpoint by Soviet Special Forces. August 21The Moscow<br />
putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings they’ve<br />
occupied since January. Lenin’s statue is removed from<br />
Vilnius’ Lukiškių Aikštė (Lukiškės Square). A photograph of<br />
the event appears on the cover of Issue N°1 ofVilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong>, published on May 1, 1992.August 29 Sweden<br />
becomes the first Western country to open an embassy in<br />
Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia<br />
and Estonia. September 17 All three Baltic countries are<br />
re-admitted into the UN.<br />
1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own<br />
flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928.<br />
1993 June 25 Lithuania’s pre-war currency, the litas, is<br />
re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves<br />
Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits.<br />
1994 December Vilnius’ Old Town joins the list of Unesco<br />
World Heritage sites.<br />
1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president.<br />
Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official<br />
at the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before<br />
returning to Lithuania to run for president. December<br />
21 Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to<br />
international pressure from the EU.<br />
21st century<br />
2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting<br />
various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas.<br />
2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US<br />
dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which<br />
the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22<br />
Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George<br />
Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US<br />
president to visit the city.<br />
2003 <strong>In</strong> the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas<br />
Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right wing<br />
underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91%<br />
of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote give a<br />
resounding Yes to EU membership.<br />
2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as<br />
president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the<br />
Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his<br />
dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. April<br />
2 Lithuania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and<br />
the EU on May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus<br />
is re-elected president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day<br />
job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal at the<br />
Athens Olympics in the discus. December 31 The Ignalina<br />
Nuclear Power Plant says farewell to the first of its two<br />
RBMK reactors.<br />
2007 December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone,<br />
allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen<br />
countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and<br />
Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia<br />
radio station.<br />
Historical names<br />
The national poem of Poland<br />
Pan Tadeusz (Lithuanian,<br />
Ponas Tadas) by<br />
the 19th-century Romantic<br />
poet Adam Mickiewicz<br />
(Lithuanian, Adomas<br />
Mickevičius, pictured)<br />
opens somewhat confusingly<br />
with the words ‘Oh<br />
Lithuania, my fatherland!’<br />
The fact that the Polish<br />
Mickiewicz referred to<br />
Lithuania as his fatherland serves as a good example as<br />
to just how linguistically — and ethnically — complicated<br />
and bewildering things are in this corner of the world. Consequently<br />
it should therefore come as no great surprise<br />
to learn that the Grand Duchy of Lithuania was ruled by<br />
somebody known as both Vytautas (Lithuanian) and Witold<br />
(Polish) whose capital was known as Trakai (Lithuanian),<br />
Troki (Polish) and Trok (Yiddish) and who spoke… Ruthenian.<br />
Vytautas/Witold quite possibly had kugel (Yiddish)<br />
and kugelis (Lithuanian) for lunch occasionally, and when<br />
he died was he buried in Vilnius (Lithuanian) and Wilno (Polish).<br />
A cause for much heated debate in Lithuania, not least<br />
among its more patriotic citizens, Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
apologises for any bad feeling caused by what some may<br />
consider a misuse of some of the words used in this guide.<br />
There’s not a lot we can do about it. Adam Mickiewicz<br />
incidentally was born in what’s now Belarus.<br />
2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and<br />
Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on<br />
basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis<br />
win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon<br />
at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team reach<br />
the semi-finals but eventually come home empty handed.<br />
2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was<br />
first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million<br />
of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends<br />
all services. Dalia Grybauskaitė, the so-called Iron Lady, is<br />
inaugurated as Lithuania’s first female president on July<br />
12. December 31 Vilnius bows out of a disastrous year as<br />
European Capital of Culture on the same day as the Ignalina<br />
Nuclear Power Plant closes for good.<br />
2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from<br />
the Soviet Union on March 11. <strong>In</strong> a sinister U-turn, on May 19<br />
a court in Klaipėda approves the public display of swastikas<br />
arguing that they represent Lithuania’s historical heritage, not<br />
Nazi Germany. On June 26, at the age of 77, Lithuania’s final First<br />
Secretary under the Communists and its first post-independence<br />
president dies after a short battle with cancer. Lithuania take<br />
bronze medal in the World Basketball Championship in Turkey<br />
after defeating Serbia 99-88 on September 12.<br />
2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the death of<br />
the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis.<br />
The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in<br />
cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18.<br />
Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia in the quarter<br />
finals in Kaunas on September 15.<br />
2012 The Lithuania Under-21 basketball team become the<br />
European champions on July 22, narrowly beating France<br />
50-49 in Ljubljana.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Until August 25<br />
Kinas Po Žvaigždėmis<br />
Translating as Cinema Under the Stars and organised by<br />
the city’s Pasaka cinema, this summer-long event shows<br />
a range of classic and art house films made over the last<br />
half century. Screenings take place on Thursday, Friday<br />
and Saturday evenings after 21:00 in the courtyard of the<br />
Contemporary Arts Centre (see p.13). See www.kinopasaka.<br />
lt for information on particular screenings.<br />
Until September 9<br />
Christopher Summer Festival 2012<br />
Artistic Director Donatas Katkus is responsible for the now<br />
well established annual Christopher Summer Festival, a<br />
veritable feast of music featuring everything from orchestral<br />
and organ works to the more obscure and unknown ends of<br />
the musical spectrum such as Gypsy swing and Senegalese<br />
drumming. Events take place in several locations around the<br />
city. Full repetoire online at www.vilniusfestivals.lt.<br />
August 1 - 30<br />
Pasaulio Muzika Gyvai ‘12<br />
A month-long celebration<br />
of world music including<br />
Jamaica’s Raymond Wright,<br />
OqueStrada from Portugal,<br />
Hungary’s exotic Romengo<br />
and US saxophonist Sax<br />
Gordon among others. The<br />
people who organise this and<br />
other world music events in<br />
Lithuania are doing a great<br />
job at bringing a diversity<br />
of cultures and sounds to<br />
Lithuania. The only problem is their website (www.gmgyvai.<br />
lt), which somewhat ironically if not entirely typically is, with<br />
the exception of a tiny amount of not particularly useful<br />
information in English, in Lithuanian only. Try and get a<br />
local to help.<br />
August 3 - 4<br />
Galapagai Roko Naktys 2012<br />
The annual Rock Nights festival comes around again, taking<br />
place on a fabulous island lake setting in the small town of<br />
Zarasai close to the Latvian border some 150km north of<br />
Vilnius. Expect a huge line-up of rock bands and performers<br />
from all over Europe and further afield, plus a raft of other<br />
associated frolics. Find out more on the festival website at<br />
www.galapagai.lt.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Galapagai Roko Naktys<br />
Sirenos’12<br />
September 27 - October 7<br />
This annual and at times<br />
highly recommended festival<br />
of contemporary theatre is<br />
well worth checking out. All of<br />
the necessary information in<br />
English for anyone interested<br />
in attending any of this year’s<br />
events is available on the<br />
festival website at www.<br />
sirenos.lt.<br />
events<br />
Rodrigo Garcia play Death and Reincarnation as a<br />
Cowboy, photo by Christian Berthelot<br />
August 4 - 29<br />
Piano.lt Summer Festival<br />
A short series of concerts at the excellent Piano.lt featuring<br />
several works favouring the pianoforte as well as other<br />
related events. See www.piano.lt for more information.<br />
August 24 - 26<br />
Mėnuo Juodaragis<br />
Another festival in Zarasai (see above), this one over two<br />
days and celebrating contemporary folk and pagan music<br />
from around 50 performers. The event will be joined by a<br />
simultaneous hot-air balloon competition taking place in the<br />
skies above. Read more at www.mjr.lt.<br />
August 25<br />
Velomarathon Vilnius 2012<br />
Taking the idea of the traditional marathon and transplanting<br />
it onto peddle-powered wheels, the third Velomarathon aids<br />
to promote healthy living, family values, road safety and other<br />
issues with the help of a number of bicycle-related events<br />
including a few races throughout the day. The website at<br />
www.velomaratonas.lt had basic information in English at<br />
the time of going to press and promises to publish a full<br />
schedule soon.<br />
September<br />
Vilnius City Fiesta<br />
A completely free open-air event taking place in several<br />
venues around the city, Vilnius City Fiesta features a huge<br />
variety of live music events, plus film screenings, fashion<br />
shows and much more besides. Exact dates are yet to be<br />
confirmed. Keep an eye on www.vilniusfestivals.lt for further<br />
information.<br />
August - November 2012<br />
11
12 events<br />
���������������������<br />
�����������������������<br />
C ����������������������������<br />
������������������<br />
�������������<br />
L����������������������������<br />
�������������<br />
��������������<br />
E����������<br />
�����<br />
����������������������������������������������<br />
�������������������������������������������������������<br />
��������������������������������������<br />
������������<br />
��������������������������������������������������<br />
�����������������������<br />
September 11<br />
Laurie Anderson<br />
Arguably one of the top events of the year, the American<br />
experimental composer, musician and performance artist<br />
and wife of Lou Reed Laurie Anderson performs for one night<br />
only inside the city’s Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (see<br />
p.14). Check online at www.teatras.lt or www.bilietupasaulis.<br />
lt for further information.<br />
September 22<br />
Vilnius Fireworks 2012<br />
It’s a bit daft billing yourself as an international event as<br />
Vilnius Fireworks 2012 does when all you can offer on your<br />
website is a few words in Lithuanian. From past experience<br />
however we can confirm that the event will be infinitely more<br />
satisfying that the dreadful promotion. The event takes place<br />
in Vingis Park (see p.65), after dark we assume.<br />
October<br />
Gaida 2012<br />
One of the highlights of Vilnius’ cultural calendar is the<br />
annual Gaida contemporary music festival. Taking place<br />
in several locations around the city, the festival was still<br />
in the process of being organised at the time of going<br />
to press, so little information is currently available.<br />
The website at www.vilniusfestivals.lt has a link to the<br />
festival in English which contains some extremely useful<br />
and helpful background information as well as a list of<br />
confirmed performances.<br />
October 11 - 14<br />
Vilnius Jazz<br />
The 25th Vilnius Jazz festival hits town again in October<br />
for four days of contemporary and experimental jazz<br />
concerts and related activities. Founded during the<br />
early days of perestroika, the festival has grown into<br />
one of the most highly regarded cultural events of the<br />
year in the country, although the experts still maintain<br />
that Kaunas’ international jazz fastival is better. Have<br />
a look at the festival website at www.vilniusjazz.lt and<br />
judge for yourself.<br />
November 7<br />
Juanes Unplugged<br />
Born Juan Esteban Aristizábal Vásquez in 1972 and better<br />
known as Juanes, the Colombian musician and former heavy<br />
metal star takes to the stage inside Vilnius’ Siemens Arena<br />
(see p.13) on November 7 for a night of accoustic music<br />
composed by the man himself and others. Tune into www.<br />
siemensarena.lt for further information.<br />
November 11<br />
BI-2<br />
The legendary MTV Russian Music Awards-winning Russian<br />
rock band who confusingly started life in Minsk, Belarus<br />
perform inside the city’s Forum Palace on November 11.<br />
See www.bilietai.lt for more.<br />
November 14 - 18<br />
Vilnius Mama Jazz<br />
Vilnius Mama Jazz has been going for several years now<br />
and offers a slightly wider spectrum than the festival above.<br />
Keep an eye on www.vilniusmamajazz.lt to see how things<br />
progress.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Not surprisingly for a capital city there’s a lot of culture to<br />
be had in Vilnius including some cracking classical music,<br />
a bit of worthy contemporary art and the occasional faded<br />
Western rock star.<br />
Arts & Crafts<br />
Amatų Gildija B-4, Pranciškonų 6, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
05 20, www.amatugildija.lt. The ceramic artist Mindaugas<br />
Rutkauskas is almost completely blind yet manages to produce<br />
some great ceramics from classic earthenware crockery<br />
to complete ceramic stoves. He shares this workshop with<br />
several other artists. Feel free to have a look around. Most<br />
of the work on display is for sale. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Jonas Bugailiškis Art Studio C-5, Aušros Vartų 17-<br />
10, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. A local mini-celebrity knocking<br />
out all manner of fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a<br />
combination of traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents<br />
of a very unique mind. Q By appointment only. J<br />
Meno Niša A-3, J. Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5<br />
231 38 11, www.menonisa.lt. Art to hang on your body<br />
as opposed to your wall, this combined gallery and workshop<br />
presents some of the best examples of the work of Lithuanian<br />
goldsmiths. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Molio Laumė A-4/5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 699<br />
424 56, www.ceramics.w3.lt. The ancient art of black<br />
ceramics brought to life inside this intriguing little hands-on<br />
gallery. Buy examples of the craft or attend one of their regular<br />
workshops. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Tautodailininko Dirbtuvė G-4, J. Basanavičiaus 29, tel.<br />
(+370) 687 906 50, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Folk artist<br />
Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day and creates<br />
some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel and piece of<br />
paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian as karpiniai,<br />
this old craft, which has been used to decorate homes during<br />
special celebrations for centuries, is available for sale, or<br />
with patience and a steady hand you can learn how to do it<br />
yourself. Q Open 17:00 - 20:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun<br />
call in advance.<br />
Užupio Galerija D-3, Užupio 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 231 23<br />
18, www.uzupiogalerija.lt. A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive<br />
metal and enamel works from a range of Lithuanian artists. A<br />
combined workshop and gallery, you’ll usually find somebody<br />
working there, who’ll be only too pleased to explain what<br />
they’re up to. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun. JA<br />
Užupio Kalvystės Galerija - Muziejus I-4, Užupio 26,<br />
tel. (+370) 687 512 55, www.vilniauskalviai.lt. A small<br />
working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch<br />
people at work, buy something as a unique gift or souvenir or<br />
ask about their regular workshops. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30,<br />
Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Cinemas<br />
Films are usually shown in their original language with<br />
Lithuanian subtitles.<br />
Forum Cinemas Vingis G-4, Savanorių 7, tel. 1567,<br />
www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly popular Hollywood films<br />
inside a dedicated multiplex close to the city centre. Also at<br />
Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:30 - 22:00.<br />
Multikino H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 219 53 78,<br />
www.multikino.lt. Hollywood blockbusters inside a large<br />
shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Pasaka B-3, Šv. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 261 15 16,<br />
www.kinopasaka.lt. A compact Old Town cinema specialising<br />
in predominantly independent and/or arthouse films<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Culture<br />
from a wide range of directors including Woody Allen and the<br />
interesting Lithuanian film maker Janina Lapinskaitė. J<br />
Skalvija H-3, A. Goštauto 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 261 05<br />
05, www.skalvija.lt. The best place in the city for arthouse<br />
and underground cinema and meeting people who like it in<br />
the attached café-bar. J<br />
Concert halls<br />
Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy (Lietuvos<br />
Muzikos ir Teatro Akademija) G-3, Gedimino 42, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 261 26 91, www.lmta.lt. The place to come and<br />
see performances by the cream of the country’s next generation<br />
of professional musicians. Concerts including established<br />
performers and conductors from Lithuania and abroad also<br />
take place here from time to time. J<br />
Lithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos<br />
Nacionalinė Filharmonija) C-5, Aušros Vartų 5, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.eu.<br />
Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the<br />
Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established in<br />
1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles including<br />
the aforementioned orchestra as well as the Čiurlionis<br />
String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana<br />
to name but a few. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. JA<br />
Piano.lt B-4, Trakų 9/1 (entrance on Kėdainių), tel.<br />
(+370) 5 203 28 91, www.piano.lt. Hidden away down an<br />
Old Town backstreet, this small concert hall arranges concerts<br />
of many types including classical and jazz. J<br />
Pramogų Arena E-2, Ąžuolyno 9, tel. (+370) 5 242 44<br />
44, www.pramoguarena.lt. A large ice-skating rink on the<br />
outskirts of the city that also hosts the occasional concert.<br />
Siemens Arena H-1, Ozo 14, tel. 1588, www.siemensarena.lt.<br />
The quintessential all-purpose arena staging<br />
everything from international basketball matches to big name<br />
rock concerts. A<br />
St. Catherine’s Church (Šv. Kotrynos Bažnyčia)<br />
B-3, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, www.kultura.<br />
lt. A city-owned concert space inside a magnificent, converted<br />
18th-century Baroque church. Concerts are varied<br />
and often very good indeed. J<br />
Ūkio Banko Teatro Arena I-3, Olimpiečių 3, tel. (+370)<br />
683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. The main venue for the<br />
OKT theatre company (see Theatres), this large place on the<br />
edge of town is also a concert venue among other things.<br />
Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongresų Rūmai) B-1,<br />
Vilniaus 6/14, tel. (+370) 5 261 88 28, www.lvso.lt. Home<br />
to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre<br />
venue features some fine acoustics and organises everything<br />
from serious classical concerts to shows for children. Q Box office<br />
open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Galleries<br />
Academy (Akademija) C-3, Pilies 44/2, tel. (+370)<br />
5 261 20 94, www.vda.lt. The gallery of the Vilnius Art<br />
Academy hosts all manner of contemporary shows by artists<br />
from home and abroad and is always worth a look inside.<br />
Q Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Contemporary Arts Centre (Šiuolaikinio Meno<br />
Centras) C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45,<br />
www.cac.lt. Vilnius’ very own monstrous carbuncle on the<br />
face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete masterpiece conceals<br />
one of the country’s leading galleries for both Lithuanian<br />
and international contemporary art. Surplus to the 2,400<br />
square metres of exhibition space, the Contemporary Arts<br />
Centre also organises conferences and lectures, features a<br />
superb reading room and hosts a rather good bar. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4Lt. JU<br />
August - November 2012<br />
13
14 Culture<br />
Jewelry Art Studio C-4, Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 615 899<br />
29. A tiny gallery close to the Town Hall in the centre of Old<br />
Town selling a range of Lithuanian-produced contemporary<br />
arts and crafts including jewellery from some of the top names<br />
in the country, paintings and graphic art. QOpen , Tue, Wed,<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
TaDas F-3, Kęstučio 51, tel. (+370) 685 555 25, www.<br />
gutauskas.lt. The weird and occasionally wonderful world of<br />
the Lithuanian artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given<br />
over entirely to his painting, sculpture and other media.<br />
Bordering on the naïve and childlike, Gutauskas’ work is<br />
colourful to say the least and all of it is for sale. Q Open by<br />
appointment only.<br />
Terra Recognita C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 612 444 79.<br />
An interesting gallery representing the work of the contemporary<br />
and conceptual Lithuanian artist Saulius Vaitiekūnas. Much<br />
of his work is both fun and thought provoking and is generally<br />
available for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Titanikas D-2, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 36,<br />
www.titanikas.com. A series of exhibition halls owned and<br />
curated by the neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions<br />
run the gamut from student shows to serious work from home<br />
and abroad in just about every conceivable medium. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Užupio Meno <strong>In</strong>kubatorius (Užupis Art <strong>In</strong>cubator)<br />
D-3, Užupio 2, tel. (+370) 611 226 75, www.umi.lt. A<br />
tumbledown house on the riverbank, brightly painted and with<br />
a few works in the garden, this is Užupis’ unofficial Ministry of<br />
Culture as well as a lively gallery space, workshop and the<br />
home of Užupio Koliažai, the only place in the city to buy official<br />
Užupis Republic memorabilia, souvenirs, local artwork, a copy<br />
of the Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works<br />
from a wide range of contributors including established local<br />
artists, school children and the occasional American professor<br />
of mathematics. Follow the riverbank north from Užupio Kavinė.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. At<br />
the time of going to press the building was closed for reconstruction.<br />
Work is expected to continue until December although the<br />
gallery should be open again in August. J<br />
Vartai B-3, Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytojų Namai), tel.<br />
(+370) 5 212 29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Arguably the<br />
best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find<br />
works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their<br />
fields. Vartai also organises exhibitions by artists from abroad.<br />
Recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun, Mon. The gallery will be closed during August. J<br />
Znad Wilii C-3, Išganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20,<br />
http://znadwiliiwilno.lt. A Polish art gallery displaying and<br />
selling paintings, books and the Polish-language newspaper<br />
of the same name. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA<br />
<strong>In</strong>dependent cultural centres<br />
Menų Fabrikas G-5, Švitrigailos 29, info@menufabrikas.lt.<br />
An independent, non-profit cultural centre based<br />
inside a fabulous old factory providing creative opportunities,<br />
outlets and events for the community including parties,<br />
fashion shows, educational seminars, film screenings and<br />
much more. Also known as Loftas (The Loft), find them on<br />
Facebook (currently in Lithuanian only) for more information<br />
and details on upcoming events. Q Working hours depend<br />
on repertoire. Entrance 15 - 50Lt.<br />
Opera & Ballet<br />
Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (Lietuvos<br />
Nacionalinis Operos ir Baleto Teatras) H-3, A.<br />
Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 27, www.opera.lt. A<br />
stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole<br />
range of works. Worth a look inside even if you don’t plan on<br />
attending anything. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun (Summer time). JA<br />
Photography<br />
Prospekto Galerija G-3, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370)<br />
5 261 83 38, www.photography.lt. Owned and run by<br />
the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union, Prospekto Galerija is<br />
a hit and miss affair but really worth the effort just in case.<br />
Exhibitions range from the sublime to the awful, often let<br />
down partially by the artists themselves who submit badly<br />
presented work that’s often lit with no thought to the work.<br />
There’s also a small shop where you can buy books and<br />
postcards featuring the work of many famous and obscure<br />
Lithuanian art, news and documentary photographers past<br />
and present. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija C-4, Stiklių 4 (entrance<br />
from Didžioji 19), tel. (+370) 618 375 20, www.photography.lt.<br />
Situated above a picture-framing shop that you need to<br />
enter in order to get to the gallery, this small and rather basic affair,<br />
also the property of the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union, puts<br />
on a number of shows throughout the year, some of which are<br />
well worth attending. Find it tucked away in a courtyard. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Theatres<br />
Almost all performances are in Lithuanian or Russian.<br />
Some theatres provide occasional simultaneous translation.<br />
Arts Printing House (Menų Spaustuvė) D-2,<br />
Šiltadaržio 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32, www.menuspaustuve.lt.<br />
Housed inside a former tsarist-era printing house this<br />
intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to collect<br />
and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for various performers.<br />
Check the website for a full list of their activities. J<br />
Domino Theatre (Domino Teatras) G-4, Savanorių 7<br />
(Forum Cinemas Vingis), tel. (+370) 656 863 83, www.<br />
dominoteatras.lt. The brainchild of a small collective of<br />
like-minded local thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts<br />
on shows inside a cinema. Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:00,<br />
15:00 - 19:00. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun<br />
an hour before the performance (June - August).<br />
Lėlė Puppet Theatre (Vilniaus Teatras Lėlė) C-4,<br />
Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 86 78, www.teatraslele.lt. This<br />
inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages has been charming<br />
audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back in<br />
1958. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis<br />
Dramos Teatras) B-2, Gedimino 4, tel. (+370)<br />
618 757 80, www.teatras.lt. Pretty much what it says it is, the<br />
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre promotes theatre from home<br />
and abroad and stages it in two venues inside the same building.<br />
Look for the three muses guarding the main entrance. Q Box<br />
office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Rusų<br />
Dramos Teatras) H-4, J. Basanavičiaus 13, tel. (+370)<br />
5 262 05 52, www.rusudrama.lt. The only professional<br />
theatre in the country staging works exclusively in the Russian<br />
language, this fine old building also hosts other events<br />
including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival. Q Box office<br />
open 10:45 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Meno Fortas D-2, Bernardinų 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 268<br />
58 16, www.menofortas.lt. An Old Town theatre given over<br />
entirely to the visionary antics of the infamous Lithuanian theatrical<br />
director Eimuntas Nekrošius. Works include everything<br />
from Shakespeare to original works. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Culture<br />
Opera & Ballet Opera & Ballet continued<br />
August<br />
Concert<br />
28 19:00 Concert of the Gewandhaus<br />
Orchestra<br />
September<br />
Opera<br />
29 18:30 L’Elisir d’Amore G. Donizetti.<br />
Operetta<br />
28 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.<br />
Ballet<br />
15 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.<br />
16 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.<br />
19 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.<br />
21 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.<br />
22 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.<br />
26 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.<br />
27 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.<br />
For Children<br />
30 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.<br />
October<br />
Opera<br />
4 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.<br />
10 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet.<br />
13 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.<br />
18 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.<br />
20 18:30 Otello G. Verdi.<br />
25 18:30 Boris Godunov M. Musorgskis.<br />
26 18:30 Boris Godunov M. Musorgskis.<br />
Ballet<br />
3 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.<br />
11 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.<br />
12 18:30 Giselle A. Adam.<br />
17 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.<br />
19 18:30 Don Quixote L. A. Minkus.<br />
27 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus.<br />
28 12:00 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.<br />
30 18:30 The Fountain Of Bakhchisarai<br />
National Academic Bolshoi Ballet<br />
Theatre of the Republic of Belarus<br />
Concert<br />
6 19:00 Anniversary Concert of E.<br />
Kaniava<br />
For Children<br />
6 12:00 Burattino J. Gaižauskas.<br />
7 12:00 Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs<br />
B. Pawlowski.<br />
14 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.<br />
21 12:00 Snow White And The Seven<br />
Dwarfs B. Pawlowski.<br />
27 12:00 Burattino J. Gaižauskas.<br />
November<br />
Opera<br />
3 18:30 Otello G. Verdi.<br />
8 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.<br />
16 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A.<br />
Mozart.<br />
17 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A.<br />
Mozart.<br />
22 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet.<br />
29 18:30 La Juive J. F. Halevy.<br />
Operetta<br />
10 18:30 The Merry Widow F. Lehár.<br />
24 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Ballet<br />
2 18:30 Giselle A. Adam.<br />
7 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.<br />
9 18:30 Barbora Radvilaitė S. Vainiūnas,<br />
A. Malcys, H. M. Górecki and other<br />
composers.<br />
23 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.<br />
28 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus.<br />
30 18:30 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.<br />
For Children<br />
4 12:00 The Tiny Lingonberry J.<br />
Tamulionis.<br />
11 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofjev.<br />
18 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofjev.<br />
25 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.<br />
Performances take place at the Lithuanian National<br />
Opera and Ballet Theatre (see p. 14). More info at www.<br />
opera.lt<br />
National Youth Theatre (Valstybinis Jaunimo Teatras)<br />
C-4, Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61 26, www.jaunimoteatras.lt.<br />
Founded in 1966 the National Youth Theatre<br />
stages works of all kinds from the classics to experimental to<br />
innovative reworkings of original stories. Q Box office open<br />
11:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre (OKT/Vilniaus Miesto<br />
Teatras) B-4, Ašmenos 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99,<br />
www.okt.lt. Dedicated to modern theatre and modern<br />
interpretations of the classics. J<br />
Vilnius Old Town Theatre (Vilniaus Senamiesčio<br />
Teatras) A-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 5 213 40<br />
64, www.senamiescioteatras.lt. Founded during the final<br />
days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the theatre<br />
specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of the 16th<br />
and 17th centuries. With a varied repertoire, the company<br />
performs almost exclusively in public outdoor spaces.<br />
Vilnius Small State Theatre (Valstybinis Vilniaus<br />
Mažasis Teatras) A-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5<br />
249 98 69, www.vmt.lt. Only finding a permanent home<br />
in 2005, this interesting theatre company who stage a wide<br />
range of predominantly contemporary works are based inside<br />
a glorious building in the city centre. Q Box office open 11:00 -<br />
15:00, 16:00 - 18:30. Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Cultural centres<br />
American Center B-4, Akmenų 7, tel. (+370) 5 266<br />
53 00, vilnius.usembassy.gov. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00,<br />
Tue 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
British Council A-2, Vilniaus 31, tel. (+370) 5 210 04<br />
28, www.britishcouncil.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Danish Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 24 12, www.dki.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00<br />
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
French <strong>In</strong>stitute C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96<br />
96, www.institutfrancais-lituanie.com. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
17:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Library open 13:30<br />
- 18:30 Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Goethe <strong>In</strong>stitute B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 231<br />
44 33, www.goethe.de/vilnius. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Italian Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute C-3, Universiteto 4, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 261 10 76, www.iicvilnius.esteri.it. Q Open<br />
10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
August - November 2012<br />
15
16 where to stay<br />
Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation<br />
options in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in<br />
Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning<br />
staying right in the centre is always an option. Booking a<br />
room in advance is recommended, especially so during<br />
the summer.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking<br />
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly<br />
K Restaurant J Old town location<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
I Fireplace W Wifi<br />
Cream of the crop<br />
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square C-2, Universiteto<br />
14/2, tel. (+370) 5 220 11 00, fax (+370) 5 220 11 20,<br />
reservations.vilnius@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.<br />
com/vilnius. Finally due to open in September 2012, the long<br />
awaited arrival of Vilnius’ very own Kempinski hotel has definitely<br />
been worth the wait. Located in an unbeatable location<br />
opposite the Cathedral, this vast historical building has been<br />
fully renovated to the highest possible standards. Featuring a<br />
wide range of rooms from standards through to an awe-inspiring<br />
presidential suite, all with free wireless internet, minibars, interactive<br />
televisions and much more besides, if you can afford<br />
to stay here then we recommend that you do. Extras include a<br />
wellness and spa centre, impressive business and conference<br />
facilities, a boutique and even a ballroom. First class indeed.<br />
Q96 rooms (11 singles €200 - 260, 72 doubles €220 - 330,<br />
12 suites €490 - 3,500, 1 presidential suite €490 - 3,500).<br />
PTJHARUIFKDCW hhhhh<br />
Radisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@<br />
radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius.<br />
The name, building and location say it all, as indeed does<br />
the list of the great and the good who choose to stay here<br />
when in town. A beautiful collection of rooms and suites<br />
are on offer, some with spectacular views of Old Town. Top<br />
notch accommodation with all the trimmings, plus business<br />
facilities, swimming pool, express laundry, a French restaurant<br />
and a bar selling some of the freshest local beer in the city.<br />
Q119 rooms (16 singles €99 - 129, 99 doubles €109 - 229,<br />
4 suites €400 - 750). PJHARUFKDXCW<br />
hhhhh<br />
Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius C-5, Subačiaus 2, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 255 33 55, fax (+370) 5 255 33 11, hotel@ramadavilnius.lt,<br />
www.ramadavilnius.lt. Delicious opulence<br />
meets high standards of modernity. As you’d expect from a<br />
five-star hotel, the rooms are nothing short of spectacular,<br />
featuring classic antique designs mixed together with the<br />
latest technology such as flat screen televisions, DVD players<br />
and voicemail. There’s also a wellness centre, conference<br />
facilities and even an umbrella in every room. A celebrity<br />
favourite, past guests include Enrique Iglesias, Sting, Jean<br />
Michel Jarre, Chris Rea and Limp Bizkit. Q55 rooms (9 singles<br />
€117, 35 doubles €138, 9 suites €228, 2 apartments €348).<br />
PTJHAR6UIFLKDXW hhhhh<br />
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel C-3, Gaono 7, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, sales@<br />
stikliaihotel.lt, www.stikliaihotel.lt. Occupying a sumptuous<br />
building with Gothic and Baroque elements, the Stikliai<br />
is where millionaires have been taking themselves for a very<br />
long time indeed. Old fashioned in most senses of the term,<br />
the fully air-conditioned rooms come with such treats as<br />
satellite and cable television, internet, mini bars and Turkish<br />
baths in the best suites. Sauna, pool, conference facilities and<br />
an equally ostentatious restaurant can also be found here. It<br />
doesn’t come much better than this. Q43 rooms (11 singles<br />
€158, 17 doubles €190 - 220, 14 suites €350 - 500, 1 apartment<br />
€1,100). PJHAR6UIFLKDXCW<br />
hhhhh<br />
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies<br />
24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82,<br />
reservations@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. Totally<br />
gorgeous in every conceivable way, room interiors include<br />
everything from original 16th-century frescoes and wooden<br />
beams to Jacuzzis in the suites. Decorated with the ultimate<br />
in style and panache, there’s no need to roll off a list<br />
of everything in the rooms because they’ve really got it all.<br />
Add to that a location to die for, impeccable service, a fine<br />
restaurant and a magical spa and, if you can afford it, you’d<br />
be a nutter to stay anywhere else. Q53 rooms (8 singles<br />
€99 - 170, 24 doubles €109 - 210, 14 suites €129 - 260,<br />
2 apartments €400 - 900, 7 junior suites €156 - 900).<br />
PTJHAR6UKDXCW hhhhh<br />
Upmarket<br />
Amberton Hotel B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 210 74 61, fax (+370) 5 210 74 60, vilnius@<br />
amberton.lt, www.ambertonhotels.com. It could be made<br />
of damp straw and the restaurant could serve nothing but cabbage<br />
and you’d still probably book a room once you saw the<br />
view. Not that it is made of damp straw we should point out, and<br />
of course the restaurant’s pretty good too. Expect free internet<br />
in the rooms, minibars and all mod cons, good mannered staff<br />
and two of the best restaurants in the city next door in fact. An<br />
absolute winner for both facilities and location. Q 96 rooms<br />
(240 -700Lt). PJHARULKXW hhhh<br />
Artis Centrum Hotels B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 266 03 66, fax (+370) 5 266 03 77, artis@<br />
centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. Perfectly<br />
located between Old Town and Gedimino, this large white<br />
birthday cake-looking hotel has been catering to a better<br />
class of guest for years. Surplus to the marvellous views from<br />
the upper front rooms are air-conditioning throughout, Pay<br />
TV, internet access and for the nervous, peepholes in all the<br />
doors. Good for healthy-minded visitors, the hotel also manages<br />
to pack in a gym and swimming pool. Q108 rooms (12<br />
singles €87 - 139, 87 doubles €97 - 159, 9 suites €115 - 209).<br />
PJHARUFLKDXCW hhhh<br />
Atrium C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, fax<br />
(+370) 5 210 77 70, hotel@atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt.<br />
One of the favourite choices of visiting big-wigs and other<br />
VIPs, Atrium blends together the antiquities of Old Town<br />
with the very best of modern hotel accommodation to great<br />
effect. Complete with minibars, heated bathroom floors<br />
and everything else you’d expect when handing over this<br />
much money in return for a bed for the night, extras include<br />
conference facilities, sauna, a cracking little Argentinean<br />
restaurant and arguably the best location in Vilnius. Q30<br />
rooms (3 singles €65 - 89, 17 doubles €72 - 119, 6 triples<br />
€92 - 125, 5 suites €95 - 139, 5 apartments €105 - 160).<br />
PJHA6ULKDW hhhh<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Best Western Vilnius H-2, Konstitucijos 14, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 273 95 95, fax (+370) 5 273 95 00, office@<br />
vilniushotel.eu, www.vilniushotel.eu. Located in the<br />
heart of the city’s main business district just north of<br />
the river, the four-star Best Western Vilnius is accordingly<br />
geared towards business travellers although there’s no<br />
reason why anybody else can’t stay there either. A wealth<br />
of tastefully decorated rooms plus a gorgeous apartment<br />
with its own sauna are available, all coming with wireless<br />
internet, satellite television, minibars and other treats.<br />
A taxi to Old Town costs less than 10Lt. Q114 rooms<br />
(12 singles €61 - 130, 93 doubles €69 - 145, 4 triples<br />
€89 - 165, 4 suites €195 - 220, 1 apartment €232 - 260).<br />
PHA6UFLKDXCW hhhh<br />
Congress H-3, Vilniaus 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 269 19<br />
19, fax (+370) 5 251 42 80, info@congress.lt, www.<br />
congress.lt. If this hotel was a person, it would proudly<br />
strut about and puff its chest out. And rightly so. Everything<br />
has a neat, tidy confidence about it, and even if you’re in a<br />
standard room, the place has an elegant yet business-class<br />
feel about it. We also like the free wireless internet. After a<br />
good night’s rest you’ll be ready to take on the town, and<br />
will find yourself conveniently located mid-way between Old<br />
Town and the new business district north of the river. Q80<br />
rooms (21 singles 240Lt, 27 doubles 280Lt, 8 triples 360Lt,<br />
3 suites 560Lt, 1 apartment 1,000Lt, 3 de-luxe 440Lt).<br />
PJHARFLKDW hhhh<br />
Conti B-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. (+370) 5 251 41 11,<br />
fax (+370) 5 251 41 00, info@contihotel.lt, www.<br />
contihotel.lt. A good choice of singles, doubles, business<br />
class rooms, suites and apartments inside a well located<br />
hotel boasting a splendid jumble of old and new. Rooms<br />
come with the absolute minimum of internet connections,<br />
satellite television and minibars with add-ons including such<br />
opulence as a Jacuzzi in the luxury room and apartments.<br />
The lobby café’s a nice place for quiet drink, plus the upper<br />
floors provide some fabulous views of the city. Q88<br />
rooms (17 singles €70, 68 doubles €76, 1 suite €201, 2<br />
apartments €275). PJHARUFLKDXW<br />
hhhh<br />
Crowne Plaza Vilnius F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 84, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 274 34 00, fax (+370) 5 274 34 11, info@<br />
cpvilnius.com, www.cpvilnius.com. The only remaining<br />
features of <strong>In</strong>turist’s flagship Hotel Friendship are the foundations,<br />
one or two arty internal elements and the views, the<br />
latter being some of the greenest and most pleasant in the<br />
city. Plonked west of the centre on the edge of one of the<br />
capital’s finest parks, this business class box is a favourite<br />
among professionals travelling individually or as part of a<br />
group who are there to use the fine conference facilities. The<br />
16th-floor restaurant-bar offers one of the prettiest places<br />
to get plastered in Lithuania. Q108 rooms (29 singles €60<br />
- 80, 19 doubles €60 - 80, 19 triples €70 - 90, 38 suites<br />
€80 - 100, 3 apartments €100 - 140). PHAR6U�<br />
FLKDXCW hhhh<br />
Dvaras B-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 70, fax<br />
(+370) 5 261 87 83, hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt.<br />
Celebrating the former manor house status of the building<br />
it’s located in, Dvaras is a small hotel with grand ideas, noticeable<br />
in everything from the décor to the price. Just eight<br />
rooms, from singles to luxury suites, are on offer, all given an<br />
old world treatment and all coming with life’s little luxuries.<br />
There’s a couple of fancy restaurants as well, all of it packaged<br />
together just a two-minute walk from the Cathedral. Q8<br />
rooms (3 singles €75, 3 doubles €89, 2 suites €129 - 140).<br />
PJHARLKW hhhh<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
where to stay<br />
Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Aušros Vartų 6, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 266 07 70, fax (+370) 5 261 20 00, vilnius@<br />
europaroyale.com, www.EuropaRoyale.com. The Europa<br />
chain’s flagship Vilnius hotel continues to offer high standards<br />
of service in an admirable Old Town location that’s hard to<br />
beat. The choice of individual rooms and suites is impressive,<br />
with even the most basic featuring mini bars, free wireless<br />
internet, air-conditioning and satellite television. Also find<br />
meeting rooms, international press and the fabulous Medininkai<br />
restaurant. One of the better places to stay in town if<br />
you can afford it. Q 51 rooms (2 singles €75 - 119, 33 doubles<br />
€75 - 124, 11 suites €90 - 139, 5 apartments €149 - 240).<br />
PJHAR6ULKW hhhh<br />
Grotthuss B-5, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22,<br />
fax (+370) 5 266 03 23, info@grotthusshotel.com,<br />
www.grotthusshotel.com. This self-proclaimed aristocratic<br />
boutique hotel in a quiet Old Town street contains 20 rooms<br />
and suites complete with Italian furniture, original art on the<br />
walls, wireless internet, minibars and satellite television.<br />
Favoured by well-heeled visitors who like the personal touch,<br />
the hotel also features an in-house gourmet restaurant and<br />
state of the art business facilities. Q20 rooms (5 singles<br />
376Lt, 3 suites 790 - 860Lt, 12 superior doubles 550 - 620Lt).<br />
JHARLKXW hhhh<br />
Star spangled banter<br />
This guide uses the star system as defined by the<br />
Lithuanian Department of Tourism, in which stars are<br />
awarded for amenities offered, and don’t necessarily<br />
reflect the quality of those amenities or the standard<br />
of service provided.<br />
August - November 2012<br />
17
18 where to stay<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n H-3, Šeimyniškių 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 30<br />
00, fax (+370) 5 210 30 01, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www.<br />
holidayinnvilnius.lt. Hugely popular with visiting Americans<br />
who like the assurance of something they’ve slept in before,<br />
this world classic’s Vilnius incarnation is located just north of<br />
the river close to the business district. Swish and decidedly<br />
modern, the rooms all have that typical Holiday <strong>In</strong>n feel, plus<br />
there’s an excellent little bar at street level complete with<br />
complimentary press where it’s possible to spend an entire<br />
evening watching the world go by and drinking the night away<br />
on your company’s expense account. A taxi ride to Old Town<br />
is about 15Lt during the day. Q134 rooms (92 doubles €79,<br />
41 suites €109, 1 apartment €280). PHARUFLK�<br />
DXW hhhh<br />
Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
20 87, fax (+370) 5 212 22 40, mabre@mabre.lt, www.<br />
mabre.lt. Found inside a fabulous former monastery, some of<br />
it dating back as far as the 17th century, this swanky hotel can<br />
be found on the border of Old Town and Užupis inside a lovely<br />
quiet courtyard. Geared towards all types of traveller with a<br />
healthy bank account, rooms veer from more than adequate<br />
singles to the wonderful (and surprisingly affordable) presidential<br />
suite. Surplus to the rooms are all manner of treats,<br />
from the recommended sauna and small pool to the in-house<br />
steak restaurant. Q40 rooms (3 singles 408Lt, 27 doubles<br />
516 - 576Lt, 8 suites 696Lt, 2 apartments 936 - 992Lt).<br />
PJHAR6ULKDXCW hhhh<br />
Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 88, fax<br />
(+370) 5 212 22 99, book@neringahotel.com, www.<br />
neringahotel.com. The superb Neringa hotel stands out<br />
as one of the city centre’s major business-class hotels. The<br />
Scandinavian-styled rooms come in both standard and superior<br />
classes, offering good value whilst still managing to provide everything<br />
the modern business traveller requires. Extras include a<br />
selection of international newspapers and magazines, a small<br />
pool and the fabulous Neringa restaurant complete with original<br />
Soviet frescoes dating from 1959. Q60 rooms (22 singles<br />
€64 - 104, 34 doubles €64 - 114, 4 apartments €94 - 134).<br />
PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhh<br />
Novotel Vilnius Centre B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5<br />
266 62 00, fax (+370) 5 266 62 01, h5209@accor.com,<br />
www.novotel.com. Great comfort and four-star luxury from<br />
the international Novotel chain inside a large modern building<br />
in the heart of the city. Choices of rooms include Superior<br />
and Executive class as well as a handful of suites, all of them<br />
light and spacious, with many featuring magnificent Old Town<br />
views. Facilities inside the rooms all include free internet and<br />
a number of other excellent facilities. The hotel also features<br />
a good restaurant, bar, sauna, fitness centre and business<br />
options in a total of seven rooms complete with full services.<br />
Q159 rooms (88 singles €79 - 188, 44 doubles €91 - 200, 3<br />
suites €221, 20 executive €111 - 220, 4 handicap €79 - 200).<br />
PTJHA6UFKDXW hhhh<br />
Park Villa Vaidilutės 6a, tel. (+370) 5 211 33 56, fax<br />
(+370) 5 211 33 57, info@parkvilla.lt, www.parkvilla.<br />
lt. Located in almost certainly the best location for a hotel<br />
in Vilnius, Park Villa sits among pine trees on the edge of a<br />
river by a popular sandy beach. <strong>In</strong> the exclusive Valakampiai<br />
district, the hotel features rooms in several categories from<br />
the excellent value singles through to the Deluxe complete<br />
with whirlpool and a jolly super view of the river. There’s also a<br />
decent in-house restaurant and another restaurant next door.<br />
A 15-minute drive from the city centre, you’ll need a map to<br />
find it as signposts simply don’t exist. Q29 rooms (7 singles<br />
170 - 360Lt, 18 doubles 200 - 220Lt, 3 triples 210 - 340Lt, 1<br />
suite 360Lt). PTHA6LKDCW hhhh<br />
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva H-3, Konstitucijos 20,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, fax (+370) 5 272 62 70, info.<br />
lietuva.vilnius@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.<br />
com/lietuvahotel-vilnius. The city’s flagship 80s Soviet<br />
hotel received an enormous renovation several years ago<br />
and now boasts the best of two worlds. Located on the north<br />
bank of the Neris in the heart of the main business district,<br />
this 22-floor beauty is quality business class accommodation<br />
indeed. The rooms are bright and fresh, there’s a vast<br />
conference capacity space, the in-house restaurant is very<br />
good indeed and the bar on the top should be on everybody’s<br />
list of places to visit regardless of whether they’re staying<br />
in the building or not. Brilliant. Q 291 rooms (€79 - 500).<br />
POTHARUFLKDXW hhhh<br />
Šarūnas I-3, Raitininkų 4, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 88,<br />
fax (+370) 5 272 43 55, info@hotelsarunas.lt, www.<br />
hotelsarunas.lt. A good value business class hotel close<br />
to the centre of things and just north of the city’s emerging<br />
business district, complete with all of the necessary add-ons<br />
for today’s demanding traveller such as satellite television,<br />
minibar, air conditioning and free wireless internet. Everything<br />
is spotlessly clean, and the numerous perks include good<br />
conference facilities, sauna, fitness centre and a super<br />
restaurant-bar good for personal dining or group hire. For<br />
the price, this is by far one of the best hotels in its category.<br />
Q54 rooms (29 singles 250 - 270Lt, 18 doubles 270 -<br />
290Lt, 5 suites 300 - 320Lt, 2 apartments 350 - 600Lt).<br />
PHAR6UFLKDW hhhh<br />
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardinų 8/8,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, fax (+370) 5 266 58 86,<br />
info@shakespeare.lt, www.shakespeare.lt. To book a<br />
room, or not to book a room, that is the question. Dickens,<br />
Joyce, Shakespeare of course and Tolstoy all have rooms<br />
named after them in this literary-themed hotel in one of<br />
the quietest and nicest streets in Old Town. Surplus to<br />
the excellent facilities in the rooms, guests all get a free<br />
present on arrival, plus there’s a rather good restaurant<br />
and a refreshingly peaceful and recommended bar to<br />
boot. Q31 rooms (8 singles 360Lt, 13 doubles 560 -<br />
600Lt, 8 suites 640 - 680Lt, 2 apartments 720 - 760Lt).<br />
PJHAR6LKXW hhhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
AAA Mano Liza B-4, Ligoninės 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22<br />
25, fax (+370) 5 212 25 08, hotel@aaa.lt, www.hotelinvilnius.lt.<br />
A small, family-run hotel in a quiet Old Town backstreet,<br />
this place has been garnering constantly good opinions seemingly<br />
forever. And for good reason. With a boutique hotel feel,<br />
local art on the walls and the now almost standard inclusion<br />
that’s free wireless internet, Mano Liza offers a personal touch<br />
lacking in many similar places. Those who stumble back in at<br />
dawn should take advantage of their much talked about all-day<br />
breakfast. Q8 rooms (1 single €47, 2 doubles €64, 4 suites<br />
€81, 1 apartment €93). JA6KW hhh<br />
Alexa B/C-5, Pylimo 53/2, tel. (+370) 5 219 17 80,<br />
fax (+370) 5 278 40 95, reservations@hotelalexa.eu,<br />
www.hotelalexa.eu. The quintessential Lithuanian mixed<br />
bag accommodation option, by all accounts the people who<br />
work here are a charming bunch and the rooms are all perfectly<br />
fine for the price, even if one of two of them are a very<br />
strange shape. Close to the bus and train stations in a slightly<br />
lugubrious part of town, pitfalls include wireless internet you<br />
have to pay for and a lack of places to eat in the immediate<br />
area. Q 34 rooms (2 singles €35 - 45, 25 doubles €38 - 60,<br />
3 triples €59 - 85, 3 quads €75 - 100, 1 suite €80 - 100).<br />
JHA6ULKW hhh<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Long term rental<br />
Barbacan Apartments D-5, Bokšto 19/12,<br />
tel. (+370) 615 126 88, info@barbacan.lt, www.<br />
aparthotel.lt. A range of extremely high quality two- and<br />
three-room apartments in a quiet location and a lovely old<br />
building in Old Town. Facilities include underground parking,<br />
satellite television, internet, fully equipped kitchens<br />
and everything else necessary for a luxurious stay. Apartments<br />
are available to rent for both long and short stays.<br />
Q Apartments from €101/night. Discounts available for<br />
longer stays. PTJA6ULXW<br />
Stiklių Dvaras (Stikliai Apartments) C-3,<br />
Dominikonų 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370)<br />
5 212 38 70, apartments@stikliaihotel.lt, www.<br />
stikliaiapartments.lt. Luxuriously furnished apartments<br />
inside a 16th- and 17th-century building available<br />
for both short- and long-term rental. Tastefully decorated<br />
and located in the same building as the Relais & Chateaux<br />
Stikliai hotel, apartments come fully equipped<br />
with lounge, kitchen, bathroom, one or two bedrooms<br />
plus satellite television and internet access. There’s<br />
underground parking too, plus guests/residents have<br />
access to the adjoining hotel’s fitness centre and swimming<br />
pool. Q 10 apartments (€1,500 - 3,500/month).<br />
PTJHARFLKDXC<br />
Algirdas City Hotels G-5, Algirdo 24, tel. (+370) 5 232<br />
66 50, fax (+370) 5 232 66 54, info@algirdashotel.lt,<br />
www.algirdashotel.lt. Located inside a grand-looking building<br />
close to the action and tantalisingly near to a clutch of superb<br />
Chinese restaurants and a 24-hour supermarket, the Algirdas<br />
boasts everything necessary for a comfortable stay. The well<br />
appointed rooms all come with en suite facilities, wireless<br />
internet and a choice of extras according to price including<br />
refrigerators and kettles in the deluxe rooms. The in-house<br />
restaurant also churns out a menu of better than average food<br />
plus the staff on reception are extremely helpful when it comes<br />
to getting hold of things generally difficult to find. Q 42 rooms<br />
(7 singles from €43, 33 doubles from €55, 2 suites from €70).<br />
PJHAULKXW hhh<br />
Apia Hotel B-3, Šv. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26,<br />
fax (+370) 5 212 36 18, apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. A<br />
small, family-run hotel in a wonderful location in the heart of<br />
Old Town close to several good bars and restaurants, all rooms<br />
include free internet access and satellite television plus there’s<br />
guarded parking and a friendly staff to help with whatever you<br />
need. Located inside a collection of fabulously restored 17th<br />
century buildings, news filtering back from previous guests<br />
suggests this one is definitely worth further investigation. Q12<br />
rooms (7 singles 203Lt, 7 doubles 251Lt, 2 triples 299Lt, 3<br />
suites 272 - 320Lt). JHAR6LXW hhh<br />
Centro Kubas - Angel C-3, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266<br />
08 60, fax (+370) 5 266 08 63, hotel@centrokubas.<br />
lt, www.hotel.centrokubas.lt. Angels, windmills, farming<br />
implements and an altogether rustic feel inside another<br />
favourite Vilnius hotel. Small enough for the personal touch to<br />
still shine through yet not too small to cram plenty of useful<br />
gadgets in the rooms. Hidden away down a wiggly Old Town<br />
street a few metres from the historic centre’s main thoroughfare,<br />
it may not be the cheapest option around but if you’re<br />
planning on visiting regularly they do offer a good discount<br />
scheme. Q 14 rooms ( singles from €52, doubles from €57,<br />
triples from €79, suites €69 - 79, apartments from €79).<br />
PJHAR6UILXW hhh<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
where to stay<br />
City Gate C-5, Bazilijonų 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 06, fax<br />
(+370) 5 210 73 07, hotel@citygate.lt, www.citygate.lt.<br />
Close to the Dawn Gate, just outside Old Town and looking not<br />
unlike part of the set from Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, this<br />
lovely little hotel affords a healthy space between itself and the<br />
chaos of Friday night whilst still being just across the road from<br />
the sights. The rooms are decent, all coming with free wireless<br />
internet, plus there’s three conference halls. Q29 rooms (2 singles<br />
195 - 250Lt, 17 doubles 240 - 330Lt, 4 triples 300 - 450Lt,<br />
6 suites 250 - 380Lt). PJHAUILKXWhhh<br />
Comfort Hotel Lt H-5, Mindaugo 27, tel. (+370) 5 250<br />
51 11, fax (+370) 5 250 51 14, co.vilnius@choice.lt,<br />
www.comforthotel.lt. Still very much a building site at the<br />
time of going to press and promising to open its doors in the<br />
middle of August 2012, the brand new Comfort Hotel can be<br />
found close to the train and bus stations and little more than<br />
five minutes away from Old Town on foot. The rooms will all<br />
come with en suite facilities and free wireless internet, plus<br />
communal offerings include a small gym and business facilities.<br />
Q Open from August 15. 200 rooms (€39 - 149/night).<br />
PHA6UFLKW hhh<br />
Comfort Vilnius B-5, Gėlių 5, tel. (+370) 5 264 88 33,<br />
fax (+370) 5 264 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com,<br />
www.mikotelgroup.com. Simplicity and style get together<br />
and have a bit of a cuddle in this bare-basics but nonetheless<br />
comfortable little hide-away. Basically it’s a cheap-stay<br />
option with nice little touches (such as light-proof curtains<br />
and free parking) that other budget beds come without. A<br />
quality bargain. Q57 rooms (8 singles €86, 45 doubles €96,<br />
4 deluxe €125). JHAW hhh<br />
Domus Maria C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel. (+370) 5 264<br />
48 80, fax (+370) 5 264 48 78, domusmaria@vilnensis.<br />
lt, www.domusmaria.lt. Excellent value Old Town accommodation<br />
inside a 17th century former Carmelite monastery,<br />
find 39 well appointed rooms including singles, doubles,<br />
triples, quads and luxury, some with splendid views and all<br />
with televisions, internet connections and en suite bathroom<br />
facilities. There’s conference facilities available for those<br />
who need them plus an in-house café where meals can be<br />
ordered throughout the day. Q39 rooms (3 singles €52, 26<br />
doubles €77, 5 triples €92, 2 quads €98, 3 suites €72 - 82).<br />
JHARULKW hhh<br />
E-GuestHouse G-4, T. Ševčenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 266<br />
07 30, fax (+370) 5 233 57 10, info@e-guesthouse.lt,<br />
www.e-guesthouse.lt. Quite the oddest little guesthouse<br />
that there ever was, featuring compact, modern and well<br />
thought out rooms, all coming with internet connections<br />
and en suite bathrooms, plus conference facilities for up to<br />
60, guarded parking, sauna and two different places to eat<br />
and drink. Located at the top of the hill a good 15-minute<br />
walk from Old Town inside a modern building, the location<br />
may not be the best in town but, especially if you get one of<br />
the less expensive rooms, it does offer excellent value for<br />
money. Q34 rooms (4 singles €35 - 44, 14 doubles €54<br />
- 69, 4 triples €70 - 73, 2 suites €58 - 75, 10 apartments<br />
€83 - 123). PHAR6UFLDW hhh<br />
Sleep smarts<br />
I have a reservation<br />
Aš esu užsisakęs kambarį<br />
More toilet paper please<br />
Norėčiau dar tualetinio popieriaus<br />
August - November 2012<br />
19
20 where to stay<br />
Europa City Vilnius G-3, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5<br />
251 44 77, fax (+370) 5 251 44 76, vilnius@europacity.<br />
lt, www.europacity.lt. The perfect budget business class<br />
hotel, featuring comfortable rooms with all the conveniences<br />
from satellite television and minibar to top security card keys<br />
and internet connections. Add-ons include a fitness centre to<br />
keep in trim whilst you’re working abroad, conference facilities<br />
and a white tablecloth restaurant. Q 128 rooms (90 singles/<br />
doubles €55 - 69, 20 business class rooms €72 - 79, 10<br />
suites €77 - 84, 4 apartments €109). PHAR6U�<br />
FLKDXW hhh<br />
Europa Stay Vilnius Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 236<br />
22 22, fax (+370) 5 236 22 33, vilnius@europastay.<br />
com. Lots of bright blues and greens more than make up<br />
for the dull journey required to get to and from this budget<br />
class hotel a good 20 minutes from the city centre. Europa<br />
Stay Vilnius is the latest offering from the Europa hotel chain,<br />
a commendable and professional outfit who’ve applied the<br />
same business sense to their less exclusive hotels they do<br />
to the others. The 101 rooms are all en suite and come with<br />
satellite television and wireless internet. Health fans will be<br />
happy to discover the hotel is located inside a large sports<br />
centre. Q101 rooms (25 singles €36 - 51, 66 doubles €41<br />
- 56, 7 triples €46 - 61, 3 apartments €60). PHA6U�<br />
FLKDW hhh<br />
Grata Hotel G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 268 33 00,<br />
fax (+370) 5 213 27 60, hotel@gratahotel.com, www.<br />
gratahotel.com. It’s a bit of a safari to reach reception but<br />
once you do finally manage to find it you’ll be glad you did.<br />
Refreshingly welcoming, the hotel, perched on top of the hill<br />
not too far from Old Town, is geared towards the business<br />
traveller but that doesn’t mean you have to wear a suit to<br />
stay here. The rooms, which famously boast a computer in<br />
every one, feature classic business hotel blue carpets, en<br />
suite bathrooms, satellite television and minibars. Q101<br />
rooms (33 singles €38 - 110, 59 doubles €50 - 120, 4<br />
triples €70 - 140, 5 suites €78 - 150). HAR6ULK�<br />
DXCW hhh<br />
Green Vilnius Hotel Pilaitės 20, tel. (+370) 5 250<br />
06 95, fax (+370) 5 250 06 94, info@greenhotel.lt,<br />
www.greenhotel.lt. This surprisingly large budget hotel<br />
(126 rooms at the last count) is a budget hotel for a reason,<br />
namely because it’s not exactly what one could describe<br />
as being in the city centre. If you don’t mind lots of messing<br />
about on public transport or are prepared to run the gauntlet<br />
of the city’s taxi drivers then by all means be their guest. The<br />
rooms come in a range of sporty colours and are all fitted<br />
with showers, televisions with international channels and<br />
wireless internet, with an extra four floors featuring rooms<br />
with small kitchens for people who want to stay for more<br />
than a few days. Surplus to the super budget lodgings are<br />
conference facilities and a restaurant. Q126 rooms (singles<br />
159Lt, doubles 180Lt, quads 245Lt). HA6ULKW<br />
hhh<br />
Hotel Tilto B-1/C-2, Tilto 8/3, tel. (+370) 5 210 00<br />
21, fax (+370) 5 210 00 20, info@hoteltilto.com, www.<br />
hoteltilto.com. An excellent location on a quiet Old Town<br />
street close to the Cathedral and other major sites, Hotel<br />
Tilto garners much praise from those who’ve slept in their<br />
beds. Among the amenities are en suite facilities for all,<br />
satellite television and wireless internet access in a choice<br />
of rooms from compact singles through to mini apartments.<br />
The staff are a friendly bunch plus there’s a small bar specialising<br />
in draught Guinness in the cellar. Q34 rooms (6 singles<br />
166 - 307Lt, 15 doubles 200 - 363Lt, 6 triples 242 - 497Lt,<br />
7 suites 276 - 518Lt). PJHAKDW hhh<br />
Panorama B-6, Sodų 14, tel. (+370) 5 233 88 22, fax<br />
(+370) 5 233 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com,<br />
www.mikotelgroup.com. This surprising hotel rises above<br />
its location and offers wonderful views of Old Town and plenty<br />
of comfort and luxury without steep prices. While it is very<br />
convenient to be across the square from the bus and train<br />
stations, it is a convenience that is also enjoyed by all manner<br />
of scumbags, vagrants and weary commuters. Being in the<br />
freshly renovated hotel is lovely. Hanging around outside it is<br />
not. Still, it’s just a short stroll and a quick run of the gauntlet<br />
to Old Town, and the combination of views, basic comforts and<br />
reasonable prices is unmatched. Q223 rooms (13 singles<br />
€86 - 105, 195 doubles €96 - 115, 9 triples €115, 2 apartments<br />
€155, 3 deluxe €125). JHA6LKW hhh<br />
Park <strong>In</strong>n Vilnius North Ukmergės 363, tel. (+370)<br />
5 238 80 00, fax (+370) 5 238 85 55, info.vilnius@<br />
rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-vilnius.<br />
Located 6km or so north of the city centre on the main<br />
road north out of the capital, Park <strong>In</strong>n Vilnius North provides<br />
the usual excellent Park <strong>In</strong>n experience for visitors<br />
of all persuasions. Featuring 84 Standard and Business<br />
Friendly rooms, facilities include bright and comfortable<br />
accommodation with free wireless internet as standard<br />
and a host of other treats. Extras include a restaurant,<br />
bar, large meeting room and free parking. Q84 rooms (79<br />
singles €42 - 48, 79 doubles €47 - 53, 5 suites €62 - 73).<br />
HAR6ULKXW hhh<br />
Rinno A-4, Vingrių 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28, fax<br />
(+370) 5 262 59 29, info@rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt.<br />
Just west of Old Town in a small, quiet street, Rinno is a<br />
good-looking three-star hotel in an admirable location for<br />
an affordable price. The rooms come in several categories<br />
from the good value standards through to luxury rooms<br />
complete with a large bath and minibar. All rooms feature<br />
free wireless internet, although you should check first to<br />
make sure you get a room close to the wireless box to<br />
make sure the signal is strong enough. Q17 rooms (14<br />
singles €49 - 79, 14 doubles €55 - 89, 3 suites €69 - 99).<br />
JHA6LKW hhh<br />
Senatoriai C-2, Tilto 2a, tel. (+370) 5 212 64 91, fax<br />
(+370) 5 212 63 72, info@senatoriai.lt, www.senatoriai.<br />
lt. A super little hotel practically on top of the Cathedral,<br />
Senatoriai features a small selection of en suite rooms<br />
complete with chintzy curtains, refrigerators, extraordinarily<br />
comfortable beds, free wireless internet and, in Room N°9,<br />
a magical view of Gediminas Castle. The staff are friendly<br />
and the in-house restaurant (breakfast is extra and comes<br />
from a menu) is an extremely popular place for all manner<br />
of locals as well as a venue for rowdy weekend parties. The<br />
best Mexican restaurant in town also just so happens to be<br />
right next door. Q 11 rooms ( singles 190Lt, doubles 230Lt).<br />
PTJA6LKXW hhh<br />
Budget<br />
Ambassador B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 54<br />
50, fax (+370) 5 212 17 16, info@ambassador.lt, www.<br />
ambassador.lt. A magnificent throwback to an earlier age<br />
with a few 21st-century concessions, the Ambassador<br />
provides adequate lodging for a fine price with the added<br />
advantage of one of the best locations in town. The rooms<br />
are a little old-fashioned, but if you’re in the mood for a bargain<br />
complete with pleasant staff, surprisingly good breakfast and<br />
a cavalcade of top sights on your doorstep, look no further.<br />
Q18 rooms (3 singles 100 - 240Lt, 11 doubles 115 - 280Lt,<br />
2 triples 175 - 340Lt, 1 quad 235 - 400Lt, 1 suite 360Lt).<br />
JA6LX hh<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Corner Hotel G-5, T. Ševčenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 210<br />
23 61, fax (+370) 5 210 23 64, reservation@cornerhotel.lt,<br />
www.cornerhotel.lt. An excellent budget choice<br />
close to Old Town at the top of the hill, this clean and modern<br />
option provides a range of simple en suite rooms for between<br />
one and four guests, free wireless internet and a better than<br />
average breakfast. Corner Hotel is also worth considering<br />
if you’re coming to stay for a while, offering serviced en<br />
suite rooms with shared kitchen and laundry facilities. It’s<br />
also just around the corner from Algirdo, a street boasting<br />
several good restaurants. Q141 rooms (5 singles 177Lt,<br />
33 triples 216Lt, 5 quads 236Lt, 98 double (twin) 196Lt).<br />
HA6ULW hh<br />
Ecotel Vilnius H-3, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00,<br />
fax (+370) 5 210 27 07, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel.<br />
lt. Tucked away in a pleasant, quiet part of town just east of<br />
the city’s emerging business district, Ecotel offers a choice<br />
of sleek and comfortable rooms, all coming with telephone<br />
and television, and including a range for non-smokers and<br />
those with allergy problems. With conference facilities<br />
and a whole host of other services (including ‘rooms for<br />
tall guests’) this might be the lofty option you’re looking<br />
for. Q166 rooms (20 singles €40, 136 doubles €46, 10<br />
triples €51). HAR6ULW hh<br />
Mikotel C-6, Pylimo 63, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 26, fax<br />
(+370) 5 260 96 27, reservation@mikotel.lt, www.<br />
mikotelgroup.com. The receptionists are cheerful and<br />
outgoing at this modern hotel near the train station. Fortunately,<br />
unlike its dismal surroundings the hotel’s interior is<br />
clean and bright with the added touch of local artwork for<br />
sale on the walls. Q26 rooms (4 singles €55, 9 doubles<br />
€70, 4 triples €85, 2 quads €87, 6 family rooms €98).<br />
JA6L hh<br />
Rūdninkų Vartai B-5, Rūdninkų 15/46, tel. (+370)<br />
5 261 39 16, fax (+370) 5 212 05 07, rudninkai@<br />
cityhotels.lt, www.rudninkuvartai.lt. Situated at one<br />
of the city’s former gates and just across the road from<br />
one of the few remaining sections of the old city wall, this<br />
reasonable budget option with plenty of exposed brickwork<br />
for that old world feeling offers both standard rooms and<br />
something a little bit more special. All rooms are en suite,<br />
plus there’s free wireless internet throughout and at the<br />
time of writing an in-house Belgian restaurant. A splendid<br />
location right on the edge of Old Town and within easy<br />
walking distance of the bus and train stations. Q 17 rooms<br />
(5 singles from €49, 11 doubles from €61, 1 suite €104).<br />
JHA6ILKXW hh<br />
Bed & Breakfast<br />
The Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms<br />
to the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that<br />
the two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United<br />
Kingdom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run<br />
hotel, in Lithuania it’s more of an apartment kind of thing.<br />
<strong>In</strong>deed, most Lithuanian B&Bs are just that. Here it can<br />
also mean any kind of hosted accommodation, whether<br />
being a room in a family house to something similar in<br />
a building run by professional staff. So, not really Bed &<br />
Breakfast as is so famous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in<br />
doubt, make sure to ask plenty of questions before booking<br />
something you never really wanted.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
where to stay<br />
Bernardinų B&B House D-2, Bernardinų 5, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 261 51 34, fax (+370) 5 260 84 10, reservation@bernardinuhouse.com,<br />
www.bernardinuhouse.<br />
com. An excellent value little guesthouse, smack bang<br />
in the middle of Old Town. Q 13 rooms (140 - 300Lt).<br />
JA6LXW<br />
Saulės Namai J-3, Saulės 15/23, tel. (+370) 5<br />
210 61 12, hotel@saules-namai.com, www.saulesnamai.com.<br />
To be found not too far from the centre<br />
in Antakalnis, five minutes from the nearest trolleybus<br />
stop, this place can’t come recommended enough. Run<br />
by a nice family who’ve done the design and building work<br />
themselves, there are a number of interesting rooms<br />
with lots of stripped pine, exposed brickwork and quirky<br />
paintings. There’s a large kitchen where you can prepare<br />
your own food or have it made for you, a beautiful living<br />
room with a large fireplace and a quiet, leafy garden.<br />
Exceptional value and highly recommended. Q 9 rooms<br />
(singles 70 - 120Lt, doubles 140 - 200Lt, triples 160 -<br />
220Lt). 6ILXW<br />
Guesthouses<br />
Ameda F-3, Latvių 27, tel. (+370) 601 704 40, hotelameda@gmail.com,<br />
www.hotelameda.lt. Splendid<br />
value rooms and apartments in lovely Žvėrynas with<br />
excellent public transport connections to the city centre<br />
or a 15-minute walk for the more energetic, all options<br />
come with at least satellite television and internet connections,<br />
with the recommended apartments also featuring<br />
such homely inclusions as fireplaces and fully equipped<br />
kitchens. Q 6 rooms (singles €25, doubles €25 - 30,<br />
apartments €45 - 60). 6IW<br />
August - November 2012<br />
21
22 where to stay<br />
Litinterp Guest House D-2, Bernardinų 7, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 212 38 50/(+370) 689 985 17, fax (+370)<br />
5 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.com.<br />
Close to the Cathedral and many of the major sights,<br />
this seasoned favourite has been providing quality, low<br />
cost accommodation to visitors for some two decades.<br />
Located inside a glorious historic building on one of Old<br />
Town’s prettiest streets, facilities are basic but more than<br />
ample, with options for everybody from single guests to<br />
families. All rooms come with their own small kitchens<br />
plus there’s a choice of en suite and shared bathroom<br />
facilities. Airport pick-up and help with car rental is also<br />
available. Q16 rooms (4 singles 80 - 100Lt, 9 doubles<br />
140 - 160Lt, 3 triples 180 - 210Lt, 4 apartments 160 -<br />
280Lt). JA hh<br />
Paupio Namai I-4, Paupio 31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31<br />
13, fax (+370) 5 264 31 12, hotel@paupio.lt, www.paupionamai.lt.<br />
A big friendly manor house full of big friendly<br />
staff tucked away just off the street. Here you can get just<br />
about any combination you require, from a shared dormitory<br />
and bathroom to self-contained apartments with en suite<br />
facilities. The rooms are basic, clean, and fairly good value,<br />
and if you want you can take advantage of the fully equipped<br />
downstairs kitchen to keep costs down even further. Prices<br />
include a large breakfast. Q 29 rooms (35 - 80Lt/person).<br />
AR6ILW<br />
More hotels online<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Hostels<br />
A Hostel B-6, Sodų 8, tel. (+370) 5 215 02 70, info@<br />
hostelsvilnius.lt, www.ahostel.lt. This well located hostel<br />
claims to provide accommodation along the lines of the<br />
Japanese pod system which on closer inspection appears to<br />
be nothing more than standard bunk beds. Extras include 15<br />
minutes of free wireless internet, no curfew and hot showers<br />
around the clock. This is the best of their addresses. Also at<br />
Sodų 17. Q (28 - 140Lt). JALW<br />
Come to Vilnius B-6, Šv. Stepono 15, tel. (+370) 656<br />
050 36, www.cometovilnius.eu. A small hostel between<br />
the train and bus stations and Old Town, facilities are few and<br />
far between featuring shared rooms and bathroom facilities.<br />
The staff dish out free maps on arrival and can also arrange<br />
everything from bicycle rental and tours to other touristrelated<br />
services. Q6 rooms (singles €13 - 20, doubles €29,<br />
triples €44, quads €52). TJNW<br />
Filaretai J-4, Filaretų 17, tel. (+370) 5 215 46 27, fax<br />
(+370) 5 212 01 49, info@filaretaihostel.lt, www.filaretaihostel.lt.<br />
A back-to-basics hostel in the quirky Užupis<br />
district, accommodation comes in the usual dormitory style<br />
or, as is increasingly popular in hostels these days, with twin<br />
rooms for more privacy. Bathroom and kitchen facilities are<br />
shared, there’s also laundry facilities, plus, unlike some, there’s<br />
no annoying curfew. Q20 rooms (1 single 70Lt, 7 doubles 50Lt,<br />
2 triples 40Lt, 10 dormitory rooms 34Lt). HARW<br />
Fortuna Hostel D-6, Pelesos 61/2, tel. (+370) 623<br />
450 50, fax (+370) 5 260 85 89, fortunahostel@lha.<br />
lt, www.fortunahostel.lt. From the same people as Old<br />
Town Hostel, Fortuna is located just south of Old Town close<br />
to the bus and train stations. Featuring lots of exposed<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
stonework alongside modern conveniences, rooms come in<br />
range of choices from the usual dorms to twins. Everyone<br />
speaks English, plus there’s a good kitchen and even a place<br />
to park a car. Q (doubles 90Lt, triples 120Lt, quads 160Lt).<br />
JA6LXW<br />
Old Town Hostel C-5, Aušros Vartų 20-15, tel. (+370)<br />
5 262 53 57, fax (+370) 5 268 59 67, oldtownhostels@<br />
lha.lt, www.oldtownhostel.lt. A classic hostel in the old<br />
sense, meaning you’re just as likely to find hard up Polish<br />
pensioners staying here as you are middle class English<br />
university students pretending to be poor. Ignore the fact<br />
that it’s not actually in Old Town and don’t expect all-night<br />
parties with new-found Australian soul mates and you’ll be<br />
fine. Facilities are thin on the ground as one would expect,<br />
but for the price you’d be an idiot to complain. Surplus to the<br />
army-style barracks are a few smaller rooms with en suite<br />
bathrooms and cooking facilities. Q (doubles 90Lt, triples<br />
120Lt, quads 160Lt). JRW<br />
Pogo Hostel C-2, B. Radvilaitės 3, tel. (+370) 670 795<br />
91, hostel@pogo.lt, www.pogo.lt. From the same people<br />
behind one of the best bars in Lithuania comes this new hostel,<br />
located in one of the best locations in the city, clean, simple,<br />
fun and amazingly good value for money. Rooms range from<br />
extremely affordable singles through to dorms that sleep up to<br />
10 and the people who run it are very friendly. An exceptionally<br />
good option for anyone looking to meet like-minded people with<br />
a youthful outlook and a taste for good beer. Q5 rooms (2<br />
doubles €30, 1 9 bed mixed dorms €11, 1 6 bed mixed dorms<br />
€12, 1 4 bed mixed dorms €12). ARW<br />
Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre (Vilniaus Jaunųjų<br />
Turistų Centras) I-4, Polocko 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 35<br />
76, fax (+370) 5 262 77 42, vjtc@delfi.lt, www.vjtc.lt.<br />
Set in a pastoral Užupis courtyard, the building is in a state of<br />
dilapidated charm characteristic of the area. Accommodation<br />
comes in a range of Spartan rooms that can sleep up to five,<br />
all with shared bathroom facilities. Other temptations include<br />
a communal kitchen and the chance to have breakfast, which<br />
is served outside during the summer, and made for you if<br />
you’re feeling flush. Q 16 rooms (34Lt/night). R<br />
Short term rental<br />
Apartments Domus247 Tel. (+370) 604 486 36, fax<br />
(+431) 253 033 300 05, info@domus247.com, www.<br />
domus247.com. A highly recommended agency dealing in<br />
properties of all kinds for rent everywhere in the city and<br />
slightly further afield. The choice of places is impressive to<br />
say the least, and the service is outstanding. A recent attempt<br />
to find accommodation in Vilnius for four nights during<br />
a particularly busy period saw them offering one of their own<br />
properties as everything else was fully booked. Marvellous.<br />
Q 120 - 700Lt/night. J<br />
Auksinis Trikampis C-3, Didžioji 8, tel. (+370) 655 043<br />
09, nona_mackiene@yahoo.com, www.auksinistrikampis.<br />
lt. A large, fully equipped apartment with two bedrooms right<br />
in the heart of the Old Town action. Spacious and close to all<br />
the major sights, amenities include kitchen, cable television,<br />
wireless internet and parking facilities. See the website for<br />
more information. Q (110 - 290Lt/night). JW<br />
Eugenijus Apartments H-4, Vilniaus 25-1, tel. (+370)<br />
699 424 56, eugenijp@takas.lt, www.vilniusapartments.lt.<br />
A choice of two decent, good value apartments in<br />
Old Town, located at street level for easy access and coming<br />
with everything required for a self-catering stay. Close to the<br />
main sights, the apartments are managed by a local husband<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
where to stay<br />
and wife who run a small ceramics workshop and gallery in<br />
the city. Other services include car and bicycle rental, guided<br />
tours and translation services. Q 2 apartments (€30 - 40/<br />
night). JL<br />
Rentida Apartments B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel.<br />
(+370) 682 281 42, gvidas@rentida.lt, www.rentida.<br />
lt. Modern and classy apartments with all the trimmings<br />
on a fabulous Old Town street close to the oldest church in<br />
the city. Peaceful, and with some great views out of the windows,<br />
facilities include wireless internet and cable television.<br />
Q (150 - 250Lt/night). TJW<br />
Skapo Apartments C-2, S. Skapo 8-17, tel. (+370) 610<br />
038 54, info@skapoapartments.lt, www.skapoapartments.lt.<br />
Fine modern apartments, beautifully restored in a<br />
historical building close to Vilnius University, available for stays<br />
of any length and complete with all necessary amenities.<br />
Q (€37 - 85/night). JA6W<br />
Stasys Apartments Tel. (+370) 699 326 72, stasys@<br />
apartment-vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com.<br />
A choice of several apartments to suit every taste and<br />
budget, centrally located, and featuring everything necessary<br />
for a pleasant, self-catering stay. Satellite television<br />
in every apartment. Q 8 apartments (120 - 300Lt/night).<br />
RW<br />
Vilnius Apartments C-3/4, Stiklių 6-1, tel. (+370) 600<br />
128 22, info@euapartments.lt, www.euapartments.lt.<br />
A wide range of one- and two-bedroom apartments for rent<br />
in Old Town for both short and long stays. Each apartment is<br />
very different in style and amenities, the latter including such<br />
useful attractions as free internet and washing machines.<br />
Q 7 apartments (160 - 240Lt/night). J<br />
August - November 2012<br />
23
24 restaurants<br />
With the exception of a handful of amusing and/<br />
or appalling disasters, eating out in Vilnius is both<br />
excellent and relatively affordable for all. The city’s<br />
restaurants and cafés literally cater to taste buds of<br />
every persuasion, offering everything from vast plates<br />
of potato-based local specialities to a surprisingly wide<br />
and generally palatable concoction of dishes from the<br />
kitchens of such far away places as <strong>In</strong>dia and Brazil.<br />
Service continues to be the main stumbling block even<br />
in the most aristocratic of eateries, and is easily the<br />
subject from which the majority of visitors gain the<br />
most displeasure. Although the bulk of restaurants<br />
worth visiting can be found within the city centre, the<br />
suburbs also offer a few treats, which we list when we<br />
feel that the plaudits is deserving. Tipping, if deserved,<br />
is up to the diner, with 10 per cent or a rounding up of<br />
the bill both being acceptable.<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking W Wireless <strong>In</strong>ternet access<br />
X Smoking place B Outside seating<br />
I Fireplace J Old town location<br />
Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to<br />
the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks.<br />
Lithuanian<br />
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant<br />
in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features<br />
pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of<br />
potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent<br />
of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and<br />
is perhaps best described as a restaurant or café serving<br />
predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites<br />
in an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere other than in<br />
Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the<br />
good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call the former of<br />
the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of<br />
restaurant together.<br />
Aula C-2, Pilies 11, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 73, www.<br />
aularestoranas.lt. A mixed Lithuanian and international<br />
menu of competent cooking brought to your table by staff<br />
whose lack of expertise is usually more than made up for by<br />
their friendliness. The last serving of potato pancakes eaten<br />
here went down a treat, plus there’s the added advantage of a<br />
downstairs live music club. Summertime brings a small terrace<br />
and large courtyard to this classic Old Town favourite. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:30 - 01:00, Sun<br />
10:30 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTJAUBSW<br />
Čili Kaimas B-4, Vokiečių 8, tel. (+370) 5 231 25 36,<br />
www.cili.lt. Walt Disney meets The Waltons inside the<br />
country’s most popular folk restaurant chain. Resplendent<br />
accessories include small farmyard animals to keep the children<br />
entertained, agricultural implements on the walls and a surprisingly<br />
friendly and efficient bunch of waitresses scuttling about in<br />
traditional costumes. The menu of artery-clogging indigenous<br />
dishes is pretty good considering the rate at which it’s pumped<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
out of the kitchen. An interesting point worth noting is that the<br />
last vegetable soup we had here had bits of chicken in it. Also at<br />
Gedimino 14. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. 16Lt.<br />
PTJAVSW<br />
Forto Dvaras C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 656 136<br />
88, www.fortas.eu. An increasingly large national franchise<br />
of folk restaurants pandering to people in danger<br />
of becoming increasingly large themselves, Forto Dvaras<br />
offers quality traditional Lithuanian food in a folksy interior<br />
without going completely over the top. The food is authentic,<br />
immensely filling if you choose the right dish, and for<br />
the location exceptionally good value for money, whilst the<br />
service is in general reasonably friendly and thoughtful. The<br />
summertime outdoor seating provides some of the best<br />
people-watching in the capital. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt.<br />
TJABSW<br />
Graf Zeppelin C-4, Savičiaus 9, tel. (+370) 674 629<br />
49, www.grafzeppelin.lt. One of the city’s more clever<br />
anomalies, bask in antiquity and fill yourself up with what’s<br />
claimed to be the largest cepelinai in the capital. The good<br />
value menu is made up of a range of Lithuanian and German<br />
dishes, most notably the aforementioned blimps which now<br />
feature as the Lithuanian national dish and that were surely<br />
based on something the Hun brought to the country it occupied<br />
during WWI. All in all a great place for a full blown,<br />
gut-busting meal and an equally enjoyable atmosphere when<br />
they’re busy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 18Lt. PJAS<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
Katpėdėlė I-1, Lukšio 34, tel. (+370) 5 278 88 14,<br />
www.katpedele.lt. A popular national chain of restaurants<br />
serving classic Lithuanian dishes in a folksy setting as well<br />
as more international offerings and that old favourite the<br />
lunchtime special offer. Find them scattered around the<br />
city and the country. An excellent value introduction to the<br />
wonders of local heart-blocking nosh. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,<br />
Thu 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
14Lt. PABSW<br />
Keisti Ženklai B-3, Trakų 13, tel. (+370) 5 261 07<br />
79. Strange Signs has been busily keeping a low profile in<br />
Old Town for a very long time indeed, a fact that deserves<br />
some recognition. Although dining here could never really be<br />
classed as a memorable experience, the experience is at<br />
least worth the time, effort and money. The menu lurches<br />
from taste bud to taste bud, offering a mind-boggling choice<br />
of food from local specialties to average pizza. Cheap beer<br />
too. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. 11Lt. PJAS<br />
Koldūninė C-4, Savičiaus 6, tel. (+370) 679 262 59. For<br />
the uninitiated, koldūnai are the Lithuanian version of ravioli,<br />
pelmeni, pierogi etc., small pillows of dough encasing a range<br />
of fillings. This friendly place in the heart of Old Town makes it<br />
on the premises and serves it in two sizes. Fillings include beef,<br />
chicken, mutton, cottage cheese and spinach plus one with<br />
sweet berries. An excellent introduction to the simplicities of<br />
local cuisine. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 22:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 12Lt. PTJSW<br />
August - November 2012<br />
25
26 restaurants<br />
Lokys C-4, Stiklių 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys.<br />
lt. One of Vilnius’ best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear)<br />
opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in 1972<br />
in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating back to the late<br />
15th century and has been serving so-called traditional hunters’<br />
dishes amidst a slightly tongue-in-cheek backdrop ever since. The<br />
limited menu focuses on unusual dishes including quail, venison<br />
and even beaver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep<br />
everybody happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you<br />
can rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experience.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. JABS<br />
Marceliukės Klėtis I-2, Tuskulėnų 35, tel. (+370) 5 272<br />
50 87. Fairytale waitresses deliver meals the size of your head<br />
from a menu of traditional Lithuanian dishes featuring more<br />
calories than there are stars in the universe. Located somewhat<br />
strangely in the middle of a large concrete housing estate, this<br />
barnlike restaurant is strewn with such archaic eye candy as<br />
wooden bicycles hung from the ceiling and a pink and green<br />
threshing machine by the front door. Large tables make this a<br />
firm favourite for families and groups. Gentlemen confronted<br />
with the strange machine in the toilet should know that it really<br />
is for weeing in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 17Lt. TAEBS<br />
Lithuanian cuisine<br />
Classic Lithuanian cuisine belongs to a long tradition of<br />
shared peasant gastronomy in the region, with the most<br />
renowned dishes being found in one form or another on<br />
the tables of neighbouring countries as well as among<br />
the descendants of the Ashkenazi Jews. Among the most<br />
popular ingredients are berries, mushrooms, pork, dairy<br />
products, dark rye bread, pickles, herring, and potatoes.<br />
The unofficial national dish is cepelinai (zeppelins), boiled<br />
potato dumplings filled with minced pork or cottage cheese<br />
(varškė) and similar to the Swedish kroppkaka and the<br />
French-Canadian râpée. Originally aimed at manual labourers<br />
working 16 hours or more a day, visiting systems<br />
analysts may find eating more than one a problem, although<br />
the experience is certainly recommended. Koldūnai are<br />
the local version of ravioli, pelmeni, pierogi etc. Like many<br />
other classic local dishes, authentic koldūnai are exceptionally<br />
good and equally hard to find. Next up, kibinai are<br />
meat-filled pies similar in appearance to Cornish pasties<br />
that feature (as kybyn) as the traditional dish of the Lithuanian<br />
Karaite, a bizarre Turko-Judaic ethnic group living in<br />
the region since the 14th century. The best kibinai can be<br />
found in Trakai (see p.64). Balandėliai (Polish, gołąbki),<br />
meaning ‘little pigeons’, are minced pork-filled cabbage<br />
rolls in a creamy sauce. The best ones take half a day to<br />
make and are worth the wait. The classic summer dish is<br />
šaltibarščiai (pictured), which translates as ‘cold borsch’<br />
and is a cold soup made from beetroot and kefyras (kefir)<br />
served with a side dish of hot potatoes. Šaltibarščiai can<br />
be found just about everywhere during the warmer part of<br />
the year and offers an excellent way of getting a quick and<br />
nutritious lunch when sightseeing. Along with kepta duona,<br />
fried black breadsticks served with garlic and/or cheese<br />
that have been known to make people move to Lithuania,<br />
šaltibarščiai is pretty much the only traditional local food<br />
available to vegetarians. Also recommended and found in<br />
restaurants and shops around the city are the baked potato<br />
pudding known as kugelis (Yiddish, kugel), bulviniai blynai<br />
(potato pancakes) and for dessert, lietiniai, better known<br />
in the English-speaking world as pancakes. The Lithuanian<br />
equivalent of bon appétit is skanaus.<br />
Bakeries<br />
Itališka Kepykla C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel.<br />
(+370) 686 310 23. The main supermarket chains<br />
in Lithuania have come a long way over the last few<br />
years when it comes to bread, but it’s still fairly impossible<br />
to find the perfect loaf. Hats off then to this<br />
oasis in the dessert, the brainchild of a local lady so<br />
enamoured by the kind of bread and pastries made<br />
by the Italians she introduced them here. Whereas<br />
the supermarkets get the recipes right but skimp on<br />
the basic materials (the wrong flour, cheap fat etc.),<br />
Itališka Kepykla uses only the best ingredients to<br />
make bread to knock your socks off. Magnificent and<br />
most highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JAS<br />
Thierry Kepykla D-3, Užupio 19, tel. (+370) 676<br />
608 89. Currently making waves as the best place in<br />
town for croissants and coffee for breakfast at one of<br />
just three tables, any half-way decent addition to the<br />
generally grim selection of bakeries in Vilnius is more<br />
than welcome. A bit out of the way at the top of a steep<br />
Užupis hill, by all accounts the walk is worth the effort.<br />
The ones in the city centre are yet to be tested. Also<br />
at Švitrigailos 29. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
18:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JASW<br />
Senoji Pasaga C-1, Vrublevskio 2/1, tel. (+370)<br />
687 880 40. A mildly disturbing interior that gives the<br />
impression of a recent burglary should in no way put diners<br />
off. The menu of local and international dishes is perfectly<br />
fine and quite affordable, whilst the tiny secluded garden<br />
at the back is a marvellous place for a quiet lunch during<br />
the summer. Its location close to the Cathedral is also a<br />
boon. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt.<br />
PTJAUIBSW<br />
Senoji Trobelė G-5, Naugarduko 36, tel. (+370) 609<br />
990 02, www.senojitrobele.lt. Perfect if you’re staying<br />
in one of the hotels nearby and worth the walk up the<br />
hill from Old Town to eat here, this intimate folk-themed<br />
restaurant is one of the best examples of its kind in the<br />
country. We like the place, especially on a sunny day when<br />
it’s possible to eat and drink on their fine small terrace.<br />
The food is classic unpretentious local cuisine, tastes<br />
good and is equally superb value for money. If you’d like to<br />
take a little piece of the place home, their unique crockery<br />
is available for sale.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 -<br />
23:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt.TAULVBSW<br />
Žemaičiai B-4, Vokiečių 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 65<br />
73, www.zemaiciai.lt. A brilliant collection of medieval<br />
cellars designed for a slightly upmarket folk-themed<br />
dining experience, ignore the international dishes and<br />
plunge into the traditional food. Those eating in groups<br />
should consider one of the big mixed platters, which are<br />
good value and fun to share. Also worth trying is the fresh<br />
in-house beer, made in the old-fashioned unpasteurised<br />
fashion and a rare treat indeed. Also check out their fast<br />
weekday lunch if you’re in a hurry. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
30Lt. JABS<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Argentinean<br />
El Gaucho Sano C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77<br />
73, www.atrium.lt. This dark downstairs restaurant is<br />
prized by those in the know for its steaks, but there’s also<br />
plenty of other Argentinean specialities on offer for those who<br />
like to experiment, making El Gaucho Sano an ideal place to<br />
head for diners bored of the usual offerings around town. This<br />
time round we went for the sirloin steak, which was ample in<br />
proportions, cooked to perfection and extremely good value<br />
considering this is basically a hotel restaurant. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. 60Lt. PJASW<br />
Armenian<br />
Ararat H-5, Kauno 3a, tel. (+370) 5 233 45 69, www.<br />
araratas.lt. Nobody cooks meat better than the people<br />
from the Caucasus and the people who cook it in this new<br />
Armenian restaurant are no exception to the fact. The menu<br />
of grilled meat dishes is impressive, not least because they<br />
all taste magnificent and leave diners with the kind of postmeal<br />
glowing sensation that only a handful of restaurants can<br />
deliver. The service is good too, and the bill looks like a typo.<br />
Excellent value for money indeed and well worth the slight<br />
detour required to eat here. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTABSW<br />
Asian<br />
Tokyo China A-1, A. Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 620 241<br />
16, www.cili.lt. You’ve got to hand it to these people, they’re<br />
not stupid. Taking advantage of the current obsession with<br />
sushi, Tokyo China has sprung up in the guise of an Asian<br />
restaurant offering a range of Asian dishes that’s really just<br />
a sushi joint underneath. If you can’t get to the party first,<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
come in disguise. The food is good by the way, although<br />
the friendly and attentive service is a wee bit over the top.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJAVBS<br />
Wok & Roll H-5, Šv. Stepono 19, tel. (+370) 642 444<br />
40. Currently making waves among the undergroundesque<br />
fashionistas of Vilnius, this slightly out of the way little hit is<br />
a cross between a classic Asian fast food restaurant and a<br />
DJ bar. The food, which also includes sandwiches and soup,<br />
is passable if not exactly legendary and if you hit it on a<br />
good night you’ll certainly enjoy the vibe. A good option for a<br />
few beers among interesting people with the added bonus<br />
of simple food on tap to stave off the hunger. Wok & Roll will<br />
also be dishing out food for the duration of the summer from<br />
the side of a van parked up in Žvėrynas by the (F-3) footbridge<br />
that leads to Vingio Parkas. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun<br />
15:00 - 23:00. 6VEBSW<br />
Brazilian<br />
Grill Brazil C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 43 61, www.<br />
grillbrazil.lt. A marvellous restaurant specialising in churrasco<br />
and espeto corrido cuisine, which for the uninitiated is<br />
a Brazilian buffet extravaganza wherein diners help themselves<br />
to endless portions of salad and other dishes whilst a procession<br />
of waiters do the rounds armed with large skewers loaded<br />
with grilled meat which is cut at the table and dropped onto the<br />
plate. Unquestionably one of the best restaurants in the country,<br />
there’s also an accompanying set menu for the less adventurous.<br />
Their Old Town venture is geared slightly more towards<br />
the tourist market, whereas their other place on the top floor<br />
of Panorama is a much more local affair. Both are excellent and<br />
highly recommended. Q Open Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 26Lt. PJA<br />
August - November 2012<br />
27
28 restaurants<br />
British<br />
Bokšto Vartai C-3, Bokšto 2, tel. (+370) 5 260 96<br />
64. Popular with locals and foreigners alike, this two-floor<br />
Old Town restaurant in a fabulous historical building is a<br />
joint Lithuanian-British venture that fuses together the best<br />
aspects of both cultures. The menu is impressive and has<br />
yet to disappoint, whether it’s their classic English breakfast<br />
or the monster burgers and fries. There’s a great selection<br />
of beers at good prices too, plus the occasional evening of<br />
live music. QOpen Mon, Tue 12:00 - 16:00, Wed 12:00 -<br />
23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 25Lt.<br />
PJASW<br />
Chinese<br />
Didžioji Kinija H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 263<br />
63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. One of a small chain of Chinese<br />
restaurants in town, all of them worthy of further culinary<br />
investigation, Didžioji Kinija’s location may not be exactly<br />
central but is certainly calling for a visit. As with the vast<br />
majority of Chinese food in Vilnius, this is the real thing, not<br />
the adulterated imitation usually served up in places like the<br />
UK. The menu itself is massive, not unlike the actual dishes<br />
of which there’s a good range to suit all, including vegetarians.<br />
The current business lunch served here, which can be eaten<br />
in-house or taken away, is ridiculously good value indeed.<br />
Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTAVBSW<br />
Fine dining<br />
California Gourmet C-5, Subačiaus 2 (Ramada Hotel<br />
& Suites Vilnius), tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, www.<br />
californiagourmet.lt. The five-star Ramada Hotel & Suites<br />
Vilnius’ flagship gourmet restaurant offers the ultimate in<br />
dining, from the sophisticated décor through to the mouth-<br />
watering food. Billed as the first gourmet restaurant in<br />
Lithuania, the food here is taken very seriously indeed and<br />
gets most of its inspiration from the melting pot of cuisines<br />
coming out of the United States. The menu is impressive<br />
and includes a wealth of classy dishes from a much talkedabout<br />
Caesar salad to fresh lobster to foie gras. QOpen<br />
18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 65Lt.<br />
PTJAULBSW<br />
La Provence B-4, Vokiečių 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 02<br />
57, www.laprovence.lt. This Vilnius favourite specialising<br />
in Mediterranean cooking at its best is generally crowded<br />
with tables full of well-heeled locals and foreigners tucking<br />
into a mouth-watering range of dishes including fish,<br />
grilled meat and a couple of vegetarian options. Prepared<br />
and delivered with the height of care, attention and even a<br />
little theatre, despite its reputation as a rather expensive<br />
restaurant, not only is it worth the money here there are<br />
also a number of dishes that won’t break the bank. Having<br />
said that, they do stock a couple of bottles of champagne<br />
for 1,000Lt a pop. Magnificent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 70Lt.<br />
PTJAS<br />
Narutis Restaurant C-2/3, Pilies 24 (The Narutis Hotel -<br />
Preferred Boutique), tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, www.narutis.<br />
com. Lush burgundy and orange fabrics and glorious 18thcentury<br />
frescoes, white tablecloths and staff with impeccable<br />
style, that’s what people have grown to expect in this top notch<br />
Old Town hotel restaurant. There’s plenty of imitators hereabouts,<br />
but in Naručio Restoranas you get the real thing, meaning great<br />
service and great food. The menu features an imaginative<br />
concoction of dishes from around the world, including one of the<br />
best kybyn (a Lithuanian Karaite speciality) in the country to a<br />
mouth-watering Chilean sea bass. Using fresh ingredients to<br />
create works of art on every plate, this one really is hard to beat.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 65Lt. PTJABSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370) 5<br />
264 95 80, www.stikliaihotel.lt. A small but magnificent<br />
menu of wonderful dishes featuring such classic favourites<br />
as black truffles and a proper sorbet, all served from soup<br />
to nuts by impeccable staff in truly sumptuous surroundings.<br />
Whereas most hotel restaurants are best avoided, this one<br />
is more than an exception. Backpackers and stag parties<br />
might like to find somewhere else to eat. People with style<br />
who know a good thing when they see it and who like to<br />
impress might like to book a table. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00,<br />
18:00 - 23:30. Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. 90Lt.<br />
PTJAUBW<br />
French<br />
Aux Champs - Elysées A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5<br />
205 81 92, info@mlgrupe.com, www.eliziejauslaukai.<br />
lt. Popular with a wide range of locals and foreigners alike,<br />
the décor is French without being over the top and the<br />
menu, including plenty of French favourites including snails<br />
and that also features weekly changing dishes, is genuinely<br />
excellent. There’s pleasant live music every Thursday from<br />
18:00 too.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. JA<br />
Balzac C-4, Savičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 614 892 23,<br />
www.balzac.lt. From the fun tables in the little back room<br />
to the slightly punky waitress to the fact that the place was<br />
heaving on a Monday night to the amusing music policy,<br />
everything during our last outing here was just right. The<br />
small menu also scored very well, with the red pepper<br />
soup and the steak being particularly exceptional. Recommended<br />
for all types of dining. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00,<br />
Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
30Lt. PTJABS<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
August - November 2012<br />
29
30 restaurants<br />
Central Asian<br />
Čingischanas (Genghis Khan) A - 3, J.<br />
Basanavičiaus 8/1, tel. (+370) 619 128 16, www.<br />
restoranas.net. Chefs from Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan,<br />
Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan have all contributed their<br />
own dishes to Lithuania’s only truly authentic Central<br />
Asian restaurant. Bursting with aromatic and spicy dishes<br />
you’ve probably never eaten before, the décor may be a<br />
little on the kitsch side but then that’s all part of the experience.<br />
Recommended for novelty value if not the food<br />
itself. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00<br />
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PJUES<br />
Brasserie de Verres en Vers C-4, Didžioji 35/2 (Radisson<br />
Blu Astorija Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 236 08 40, www.<br />
radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. As one would expect from<br />
the Radisson brand, their in-house Vilnius Old Town restaurant<br />
is pure top class. Tastefully decorated in cool browns, eat in a<br />
choice of two halls, one with a little privacy and the other with<br />
large windows looking out onto the street outside. The small<br />
but well-chosen menu features a cavalcade of classics with<br />
a predominantly French flavour. Recommended is the slow<br />
roasted rabbit with sauté potatoes. The service is friendly and<br />
attentive QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. 100Lt. PJAUBW<br />
Marché de Provence C-3, Pilies 27, tel. (+370) 686<br />
777 07. A really great-looking restaurant serving a limited<br />
choice of dishes from France and the Mediterranean region<br />
in general. We had a knockout salad followed by a cheese<br />
risotto, one of the hardest dishes to make well and that the<br />
chef made pretty much to perfection. There’s a good wine<br />
list too, the staff know what they’re talking about and the<br />
use of fresh herbs in every dish really helps make the place<br />
stand out from the crowd. A small terrace out the back of the<br />
building opens during the warmer part of the year. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. PJABS<br />
German<br />
Bunte Gans C-5/6, Aušros Vartų 11, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
83 12, www.buntegans.lt. Bunte Gans churns out excellent<br />
German cuisine and other dishes in this Old Town favourite. The<br />
imaginative, good value food on offer includes schnitzels, bratwurst,<br />
bangers and mash, lamb, boar, beef steaks, fresh fish and<br />
the house special dish of goose with fried potatoes and a host<br />
of other vegetables. There’s live music during the weekends and<br />
an extensive range of drinks including Riesling, Grauer Burgunder<br />
and the recommended German beer Zoller-Hof from Schwabia.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 21:00. 35Lt.TJAEBSW<br />
Georgian<br />
NEW<br />
Tiflisi-Dukani A-4, Naugarduko 12, tel. (+370) 656<br />
228 05. Featuring pleasant décor, an equally agreeable<br />
staff and some real magic taking place in the kitchen, Tiflisi<br />
Dukani’s menu features enough Caucasian cuisine to keep<br />
mouths watering for months to come. Because this is a real<br />
Georgian restaurant owned and run by people who know<br />
their business, the staff are on hand to advise as to what<br />
dishes to order. Highly recommended are any of the Georgian<br />
soups and the magnificent grilled meats. An extensive wine<br />
menu and plenty of classic desserts finishes everything off<br />
perfectly.QOpen 10:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 23:00.<br />
25Lt. PTAUVEBSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
<strong>In</strong>dian<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian Maharaja B-3, Trakų 4, tel. (+370) 662 116<br />
00, www.indianmaharaja.lt. What started out as a<br />
serious-looking contender to the unbeatable Sue’s <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Raja has over a relatively short period of time opted for the<br />
tedious Lithuanian habit of going downhill fast. You tend<br />
to get what you pay for in life, which in the case of <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Maharaja is at best average <strong>In</strong>dian food that panders more<br />
and more to local tastes. Although the food is by no means<br />
bad, proper <strong>In</strong>dian food needs to be, well, proper, and this<br />
is no longer the case here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri<br />
11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. 15Lt.<br />
PJAVSW<br />
Sue’s <strong>In</strong>dian Raja B-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18<br />
88, www.suesindianraja.lt. Cynics may baulk at the prices<br />
here, but to anyone with a sense of what an outstanding<br />
restaurant is all about, Sue’s <strong>In</strong>dian Raja is simply the best<br />
place to eat in Vilnius and is consequently worth every penny.<br />
Overseen with discreet showman flair by living legend Wing<br />
Commander Rajinder Chaudhary, the exemplary dishes are<br />
all made with hand-mixed spices for the absolute best in<br />
authenticity. The staff are on hand to advise, the spiciness<br />
of a dish can be raised or lowered on demand and the view of<br />
the Cathedral is the absolute icing on the cake. The perfect<br />
cure for just about any ailment, go for a selection of bhajis<br />
and pakoras to start with and follow it up with the ultimate<br />
Butter Chicken. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
30Lt. PTJAVBSW<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Bistro 18 C-3, Stiklių 18, tel. (+370) 677 720 91, www.<br />
bistro18.lt. A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro<br />
18 specialises primarily in dishes from the world of European<br />
seasonal cuisine including French onion soup, risotto, pasta and<br />
scores of meat-heavy dishes such as beef and rabbit. There’s<br />
pudding too, and the aforementioned wine shop stocks a huge<br />
selection of booze. There’s little sympathy for vegetarians here,<br />
but if you’re into classy dining on one of Vilnius’ poshest streets<br />
this might just be the place for you. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PTJAUS<br />
Cozy C-3, Dominikonų 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37,<br />
www.cozy.lt. By the time most people read this Cozy<br />
should be sporting new furniture, freshly painted walls and<br />
a highly recommended photography exhibition on the walls,<br />
although this shouldn’t prevent people from visiting before<br />
the makeover. This Dutch-owned masterpiece is one of the<br />
jewels in the crown of the Lithuanian capital, providing solace<br />
for a wide range of creative and media types who keep coming<br />
back because it’s friendly, the food’s very good and the bar is<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
one of the best bars in the city for getting delightfully tipsy at.<br />
Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 25Lt. PJABSW<br />
Buffet express<br />
Ponių Laimė C-3, Stiklių 14/1, tel. (+370) 5 264 95<br />
81. A combined patisserie and buffet restaurant with a<br />
distinctly feminine feel to the place, this is eating in a hurry<br />
at its best. The selection of ready-to-eat food may not be<br />
the largest in town, but the dishes are imaginative, taste<br />
superb and are, considering the location, excellent value<br />
for money. Just make sure you’ve got some cash on you,<br />
as they still don’t take credit cards. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PTJS<br />
August - November 2012<br />
31
32 restaurants<br />
NEW<br />
Druskos Namai I-4, Užupio 30, tel. (+370) 5 215 30<br />
04, info@druskosnamai.lt, www.druskosnamai.lt. The<br />
philosophy behind the recently opened Druskos Namai is<br />
to provide quality international food at affordable prices<br />
sourced as much as possible from local farms. This is<br />
generally the best way to establishing yourself as a quality<br />
restaurant as it ensures both food to talk about and a<br />
constantly changing menu that keep the punters coming<br />
again and again. Complete with a small outdoor courtyard<br />
(booking at peak times is highly recommended), we plucked<br />
for the gazpacho, the perfect choice for daytime outdoor<br />
eating, and a great little dish of pork with cherry tomatoes<br />
and mashed potato to die for. Certainly worth the struggle<br />
up the hill to get there. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00<br />
- 23:00. 30Lt. JABW<br />
Esse G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 25 11,<br />
www.esse.lt. A bustling restaurant in the city centre with an<br />
emphasis on Italian and Lithuanian cuisine, well-trained staff<br />
ferry a cavalcade of good-looking dishes to a predominantly<br />
business class clientèle. Among the favourite fare on offer<br />
are the mussels in a wine and cream sauce plus a highly<br />
recommended changing business lunch menu served during<br />
the working week between 11:00 and 16:00. There’s also<br />
over 100 wines to choose from plus, for those who can’t<br />
stand to be away from the office, that Vilnius rarity, free wireless<br />
internet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PTJAEBSW<br />
Grill <strong>In</strong>n B-3, Dominikonų 6, tel. (+370) 600 019 77,<br />
www.grillinn.lt. Friendly and well turned-out staff are on<br />
hand to serve a range of superb, meat-heavy dishes and a<br />
few peasant classics such as boiled pigs’ ears alongside a<br />
good choice of beers from local small breweries. There’s a<br />
choice of rooms in which to dine as well as the option of propping<br />
up the bar and getting quietly sloshed, whilst during the<br />
summer the addition of a small terrace out the back in which<br />
a young member of staff is known to appear with a barbecue<br />
and start grilling meat is a very welcome addition indeed.<br />
Pretty much perfect for any occasion. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,<br />
Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. JAUEBSW<br />
Holy Miko’s C-3, Šv. Mykolo 4, tel. (+370) 688 222<br />
10, www.holymikos.lt. A small, family-run restaurant on<br />
a quiet Old Town street specialising in both Lithuanian and<br />
international dishes served in sumptuous surroundings,<br />
the food is predominantly nouvelle cuisine and is exquisitely<br />
presented. There’s also an imaginative, changing<br />
daily lunch special for a good price and a remarkably good<br />
wine list. A good choice for the romantically inclined and/<br />
or small business occasions, Holy Miko’s also features an<br />
interesting selection of live music events. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 25Lt.<br />
TJAESW<br />
Jalta F-3, Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 636 102 52. Going<br />
from strength to strength, Jalta is an excellent reason to<br />
visit the leafy suburb populated with more than its fair<br />
share of wooden houses that’s Žvėrynas. The food leans<br />
in the direction of healthy, offering plenty of dishes made<br />
from locally sourced ingredients whilst they also organise<br />
a wealth of evening events including DJs in the greenhouse<br />
in the front garden. Complete with a peaceful, tree-laden<br />
terrace that’s a real knockout during the warmer part<br />
of the year, expect plenty of red-eyed alternative types<br />
turning up on bicycles. Definitely recommended. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.<br />
25Lt. TENBSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Kalvarijų 1 H-3, Kalvarijų 1, tel. (+370) 671 786 76.<br />
Sadly no longer possessing their rather splendid outdoor<br />
terrace, Kalvarijų 1 is still worth a visit if only for the unusually<br />
friendly staff. Touting itself as an international restaurant,<br />
the place is more than a place to dine in, although the food<br />
is definitely worth further investigation. This is also a fine<br />
spot for a few drinks in the evening, attracting an interesting<br />
mix of locals who, at least judging from our visits, tend<br />
to be a little more lively than the usual Vilnius restaurant<br />
goer. A good option if you find yourself on the north side<br />
of the river. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 24Lt.<br />
TAESW<br />
Kitchen C-3, Didžioji 11, tel. (+370) 5 231 38 84. An<br />
angular experience with plenty of creamy shades and exposed<br />
wooden features, this simple offering not only keeps<br />
the décor to a minimum but also doesn’t get carried away<br />
with the menu. The recommended dishes on offer include<br />
a recently eaten plate of miniature fishcakes that despite<br />
their laughable size tasted superb. There’s an extensive<br />
wine list too. A good choice for those wanting to impress<br />
without breaking the bank. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed<br />
Sun, Mon June - August. 24Lt. PTJASW<br />
La Pergola B-5, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22.<br />
White tablecloth gourmet dining in sumptuous surroundings<br />
inside the Grotthuss hotel, or, during the warmer months,<br />
on their lovely terrace just off a quiet street in the heart of<br />
Old Town. The menu of international dishes includes plenty<br />
of options to keep everybody happy, and is accompanied<br />
by an equally admirable wine list. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Sun. 60Lt. PTJAULBW<br />
Cafés<br />
Coffee <strong>In</strong>n A-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. (+370) 655 777<br />
63. One of the hippest addresses in town, find two floors<br />
of tables occupied by brightly coloured students taking<br />
advantage of the free wireless internet and updating their<br />
Facebook pages on their iPhones. Coffee, sandwiches,<br />
muffins, juice etc. Also at Trakų 7, Pilies 3, Gedimino 2,<br />
Gedimino 9, Gedimino 24, Gedimino 52, Didžioji 6, Didžioji<br />
40, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa).<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PJBSW<br />
NEW<br />
Salentino Café C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370)<br />
676 820 15. Owned and operated by the club with<br />
the same name inside the same building, this quaint<br />
little café overlooking Town Hall Square sells a range<br />
of drinks and snacks and for the summer features<br />
a super little terrace on which to sit and watch the<br />
hordes of tourists go trudging by. QOpen 24hrs. 7Lt.<br />
PJAVBSW<br />
Šviežia Kava B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 260<br />
96 53, www.svieziakava.lt. One of the country’s<br />
top coffee house chains, Šviežia Kava’s Gedimino 9<br />
outlet is housed inside a bookshop no less, making<br />
for the perfect environment to drink quality espresso<br />
and the like amidst a wealth of literature. Keep an eye<br />
out for their other branches around the city centre.<br />
Also at Gedimino 35, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos<br />
16 (VCUP), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Savanorių 22, J.<br />
Balčikonio 3. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
PJAUSW<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
August - November 2012<br />
33
34 restaurants<br />
NEW<br />
Lauro Lapas A-2, Pamėnkalnio 24, tel. (+370) 674<br />
510 45, www.laurolapas.lt. A brave new venture by two<br />
young local chefs promising both quality and innovation, Lauro<br />
Lapas offers a limited choice of à la carte dining plus dishes<br />
from a daily specials menu. The food features such rarities in<br />
Lithuania as pheasant alongside a more conservative menu of<br />
international food all cooked with panache and a twist. And if<br />
you like twists, despite the ‘food and wine’ subtext in the full<br />
restaurant title, at the time of visiting they were still waiting<br />
for an alcohol license. We hope to have a more substantial<br />
review later in the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00<br />
- 23:00. Closed Sun. 35Lt. JAW<br />
Medininkai C-5, Aušros Vartų 8, tel. (+370) 600<br />
864 91, www.medininkai.lt. One of Vilnius’ oldest and<br />
most well respected restaurants serves up sumptuous<br />
international food in a white tablecloth atmosphere in a<br />
choice of several halls as well as outside in a lovely 16thcentury<br />
courtyard during the summer. The menu features<br />
all manner of good things, from fresh seafood to pasta to<br />
some fine grilled meat, all overseen by an award-winning<br />
chef who maintains high standards throughout. Part of the<br />
classy Europa Royale hotel, diners can also take advantage<br />
of the adjoining hotel bar before or after their meal.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. TJABSW<br />
Neringa H-4, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 58,<br />
www.restoranasneringa.lt. A former nomenklatura<br />
favourite and still pulling in the cream of the city’s slightly<br />
older sophisticates, this positively mammoth restaurant<br />
features two dining halls separated by a bar with a fountain<br />
in it. Of particular interest are the original 1959 murals,<br />
protected by the State along with much of the rest of the<br />
interior. The international food on offer is good, honest<br />
fare, although not likely to win any awards. The desserts<br />
are particularly fine, making this marvellous institution<br />
a good place to visit regardless of whether you’re after<br />
a full meal or not. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00<br />
- 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 30Lt.<br />
PTJAUBSW<br />
Prie Katedros B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 605 775<br />
55, www.priekatedros.lt. Two recent visits to Prie Katedros<br />
have both been entirely positive, not least in part to the totally<br />
superb beer they brew on the premises of which the honey<br />
variety tastes like no other beer we’ve tasted and leaves one<br />
delightfully wobbly after just a couple. The food is also magnificent,<br />
with the soups worthy of a massive round of applause<br />
on their own. The beer snacks are excellent too, plus there’s<br />
free wireless internet and a spooky-looking hologram to greet<br />
you at the bottom of the stairs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu<br />
10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJABSW<br />
Fish<br />
Žuvinė C-4, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 682 191 72,<br />
www.zuvine.lt. From the same stable as the people<br />
with the same name in Palanga, the place is now fully up<br />
and running and serving a select range of predominantly<br />
locally caught fish accompanied with all manner of fancy<br />
additions. The style is very much upscale, the food is<br />
impressive and the location inside the historical Town<br />
Hall is more or less unbeatable. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
32Lt. PTJABSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
NEW<br />
Rib Room H-3, Šeimyniškių 1 (Holiday <strong>In</strong>n), tel.<br />
(+370) 5 210 30 12, www.ribroom.lt. The recently<br />
refashioned restaurant inside Vilnius’ Holiday <strong>In</strong>n hotel has<br />
also seen a revamp of its menu. Whilst still offering an extensive<br />
range of international dishes, they’ve really pushed<br />
the boat out here and now include several rib dishes that<br />
they claim to serve in surprisingly different ways. It all<br />
certainly looks impressive, plus there’s plenty of other<br />
options including a couple of classic sandwiches served<br />
with fries, Crème Brûlée and one of the best-looking business<br />
lunches in the city. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun<br />
07:30 - 23:00. 40Lt. PTJAUBSW<br />
Riverside H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel<br />
Lietuva), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 21, www.riverside.lt. Consistently<br />
great food and service courtesy of this exemplary<br />
in-house hotel restaurant, the well-chosen international menu<br />
may not be the cheapest in the city but is worth the trip over<br />
the river to sample from it. As well as serving one of the best<br />
buffet breakfasts in town, there’s also an excellent buffet lunch<br />
and plenty of dishes from the menu until late. The outdoor<br />
summer terrace, opposite the increasingly popular area by<br />
the river, is a fine place to visit, even if only for a drink. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 23:00. 45Lt. PTAULBSW<br />
Roast & Beer Pub B-1, Tilto 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 48 47,<br />
www.roastandbeer.lt. A self-styled antidote to the stresses<br />
of modern living, this Russian-owned venture is awash with<br />
wooden benches, photographs of celebrities, cheery waitresses<br />
and upbeat pop music. Designed to resemble that old<br />
favourite an English pub and aimed at a slightly older clientele<br />
of 20-somethings and upwards, the menu focuses primarily<br />
on English and Bavarian cuisine. Highly recommended is the<br />
marvellous steak, egg and chips. As of the summer 2012 they<br />
also have premises on Vilnius’ main street. Also at Gedimino<br />
26. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -<br />
06:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJASW<br />
Sensus Grill & Wine B-2, Totorių 16, tel. (+370) 5 261<br />
46 93, www.bonussensus.lt. A very nice restaurant indeed<br />
that also knocks out one of the city’s better business lunches<br />
during the week, this two-floored affair uses fresh ingredients<br />
and even bakes its own bread. The menu includes a small<br />
selection of good things including steak, grilled tuna, pasta<br />
and a few decent soups. There’s a recommended drinks menu<br />
to accompany too. An excellent choice for a sophisticated<br />
blow out that won’t break the bank. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. PTJABS<br />
Sonnets D-2, Bernardinų 8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel.<br />
(+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. That rare treat<br />
a hotel restaurant worth eating in, the Shakespeare’s in-house<br />
nosh-pit excels where others barely get off the ground. Sumptuous<br />
and elegant, everything here is polished to near perfection.<br />
A diverse menu tempts diners with all manner of delicacies<br />
from classic Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All<br />
overseen by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a<br />
little heavy but is worth every penny. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PTJALBSW<br />
Tores I-4, Užupio 40, tel. (+370) 656 490 32, www.tores.<br />
lt. They’ve got lovely distressed furniture inside, with a jumble<br />
of chairs and tables ready for the demolishing of a small choice<br />
of Lithuanian and international dishes including that rarity<br />
cauliflower cheese, all washed down with a range of beers and<br />
wines from around the world. What really sets this place apart<br />
though is the terrace, one of the best in the city when it’s open,<br />
and featuring a delightful view of Old Town spread out below.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. TABSW<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
August - November 2012<br />
35
36 restaurants<br />
PIZZAS, PASTAS<br />
starting<br />
from<br />
SALADS<br />
starting<br />
from<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational fast-casual<br />
restaurant concept<br />
now in Vilnius!<br />
Best venue in town!<br />
13.90 LTL<br />
10.90 LTL<br />
Veranda F-2, Kęstučio 39, tel. (+370) 5 273 01 07. Another<br />
Žvėrynas classic, Veranda is a great place to eat in, to have too<br />
many beers with a friend in or to take a fussy elderly relative to.<br />
The international and Lithuanian food is surprisingly good plus<br />
there’s a superb selection of booze including Guinness, Leffe and<br />
draught Bernard. There’s live music several evenings a week, and<br />
out the back is a large garden complete with barbecue for splendidly<br />
lazy Sunday summer afternoons. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. 16Lt. TAEBSW<br />
Door smarts<br />
Open Atidaryta<br />
Closed Uždaryta<br />
Push Stumti<br />
Pull Traukti<br />
WWW.VAPIANO.LT<br />
<strong>VILNIUS</strong> TALLINN STOCKHOLM LONDON VIENNA AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG COLOGNE BUDAPEST<br />
Zoe’s Bar & Grill B-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5<br />
212 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Although by no<br />
means extravagant, you get what you pay for, which here<br />
is quality food prepared in an open kitchen and served<br />
by waiting staff genuinely happy to see you. The décor<br />
has an upmarket-diner feel to it, plus there are a couple<br />
of excellent beers to compliment the food. Consistently<br />
great, which is a very rare thing indeed in this city. Recommended.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu,<br />
Fri 11:30 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
27Lt. PTJABS<br />
Italian<br />
Da Antonio B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 01 09,<br />
www.antonio.lt. An old favourite with several embassies in<br />
town, Da Antonio is everything an Italian restaurant should<br />
be. Classy without any unnecessary frills and with superb<br />
people-watching windows at the front, native Italian chef<br />
Manfredo Molteni oversees a menu including fresh fish soup,<br />
grilled beef fillet and a wealth of great pasta dishes for meat<br />
eaters and vegetarians alike. There’s a great choice of Italian<br />
wines to compliment plus some truly gut-busting desserts<br />
for those who can cram a little more in. Also at L. Stuokos-<br />
Gucevičiaus 1 (Amberton Hotel), Vilniaus 6/16. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 50Lt.<br />
PTJABS<br />
Fiorentino C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 09<br />
25, www.fiorentino.lt. A good choice of Tuscan dishes<br />
with accompanying Tuscan wine, all overseen by an Italian<br />
from the region with the kind of passion sadly almost never<br />
seen in the city. <strong>In</strong>side it’s all plain white interiors and specials<br />
chalked on the blackboard, whilst the warmer months add<br />
a magnificent 16th-century Renaissance courtyard into the<br />
bargain. Tuscany is of course considered the birthplace of<br />
the Renaissance, so it’s rather fitting that the restaurant<br />
should be here. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Fri<br />
11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt.<br />
TJABW<br />
Osteria da Luca B-4, Trakų 11/2, tel. (+370) 679 594<br />
20. Not your typical Italian restaurant, Osteria da Luca opts<br />
for a more nouvelle cuisine approach to its cooking and does<br />
it surprisingly well. Situated inside a fine Old Town building<br />
with a snazzy dining area at ground level and an atmospheric<br />
cellar, there’s also the option during the summer on its small<br />
outdoor terrace opposite the fine Franciscan Church. We<br />
were particularly impressed with the fresh pasta, although<br />
there’s plenty more on offer besides but be warned that this<br />
is nouvelle cuisine, meaning most of the things on the menu<br />
aren’t going to fill you up. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 -<br />
24:00. Closed Sun. 25 Lt. PABSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
St. Valentino B-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 652<br />
657 77, www.stvalentino.lt. An unbeatable location<br />
and years of good service mark St. Valentino out as one<br />
of Vilnius’ most beloved and respected restaurants by the<br />
city’s business community and wealthy citizens who continue<br />
to favour the place over any other. Whilst wolfing down a<br />
plate of their excellent Italian food, expect to rub shoulders<br />
with anyone from foreign millionaires to politicians to trophy<br />
wives. Choose to dine in discreet comfort, with the help of a<br />
television or, as the weather improves outside on their great<br />
little people-watching terrace. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri<br />
07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 35Lt.<br />
PTJABSW<br />
Vapiano H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5<br />
238 34 89, www.vapiano.lt. Redolent of a millionaire’s<br />
greenhouse, it’s all stone, marble and oak with a particular<br />
emphasis on flora and natural light in here, the perfect environment<br />
in fact for quality Italian food in the city. Featuring<br />
open kitchens making pasta, salads and pizza, the food is<br />
made using fresh ingredients and comes in ample portions.<br />
We’ve eaten here four times now and can’t complain at all.<br />
A super place to eat in an area crying out for this kind of<br />
quality. Note that the kitchen closes 30 minutes before they<br />
lock the doors. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
20Lt. PTABSW<br />
Japanese<br />
Labuki C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 88. With<br />
suave surroundings and a choice of rooms including a main area<br />
with large windows overlooking the Town Hall, Labuki offers a<br />
wealth of dishes to please all tastes and budgets. The goodlooking<br />
sushi sets are well priced and flavoured, the tempura is<br />
terrific and the solitary noodle dish with beef is absolutely out<br />
of this world. The Korean chef also makes a mean soup and<br />
the classic Oriental desserts are very good indeed. There are<br />
fresh flowers on the tables, the service is friendly and there’s<br />
also a good value business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat<br />
with a knife and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when<br />
ordering their food. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 240 55<br />
55. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PJAVBSW<br />
Miyako H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 618<br />
521 12, www.miyako.lt. Miyako provides the full Japanese<br />
experience without shoving it down your throat. What you<br />
should shove down your throat are selections from the sushi<br />
and sashimi menus, all prepared in the front bar area, and<br />
all very good indeed for Vilnius. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 21:00. 25Lt. PTAS<br />
Ice-cream<br />
Soprano C-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 60 42,<br />
www.soprano.lt. Our last outing here involved entertaining<br />
a couple of under-sevens who demolished so<br />
much cake and ice cream they had to be hosed down<br />
before leaving. The treats on offer really are exceptionally<br />
good at any time of year. The ice-cream is made locally<br />
to a traditional Italian recipe. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
PJABSW<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
August - November 2012<br />
37
38 restaurants<br />
Fun<br />
René C-4, M. Antokolskio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
68 58. The winner of the 2011 longest wait for food<br />
competition by at least 30 minutes (the total time was<br />
getting dangerously close to an hour and a half), René’s<br />
various attempts at quirkiness through the connection<br />
between its name and a certain Belgian artist are wearing<br />
a bit thin to say the least. Bowler-hatted waitresses and<br />
the opportunity to draw on the tables may have some in<br />
raptures but when it’s all accompanied by a slip in general<br />
standards the whole thing can start to look like a bit of a<br />
joke. The food is good although by no means outstanding<br />
and Belgian beer is now available in several places<br />
around the city. When they get the food right here they<br />
really get it right, but as with so many places in Lithuania<br />
they just can’t seem to get it right all the time. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 21:00. 28Lt. PTAUBSW<br />
Studio 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 698 529 99,<br />
hello@studio9.lt. Yes, yes, yes and yes again! Hats off<br />
to the good people of Vilnius who strive to make the city<br />
a better place such as the owners of Studio 9, a marvellous<br />
addition to the capital’s list of places to go out. Reinventing<br />
the bar and grill experience by screwing angle<br />
poise lamps to every available surface and promoting a<br />
superb recorded and live music policy, there’s hamburgers<br />
to be had, beer to be drunk and a friendly crowd of<br />
mostly young, educated and liberally-inclined locals<br />
currently packing the place out. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,<br />
Thu 10:00 - 03:00, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 05:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. 20Lt. PJAEBS<br />
Osaka A-2, Vilniaus 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 71 76, www.<br />
osaka.lt. Recommended quality Japanese classic and modern<br />
favourites including nigiri sushi, hoso maki, sashimi, pungent<br />
spicy soups, noodles and more inside a wee little restaurant<br />
between Old Town and Gedimino. Ideal for meals out, Osaka<br />
also deliver and provide good value takeaway lunch sets. Unlike<br />
many others in town, it also manages to keep its standards<br />
high and is very well regarded by many who know a thing or<br />
two about Japanese food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -<br />
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PTJAVBSW<br />
Shanti A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 261 29 51. Reassuringly<br />
pricey in the way only a Slavic-styled Oriental restaurant<br />
can be, this is pure class without the unnecessary ostentatious<br />
overkill. The food is gaining a reputation as being the real<br />
deal, and everything appears to be in perfect working order.<br />
The aforementioned reason for visiting stretches all the Asian<br />
boundaries, with a menu featuring classic dishes from a number<br />
of different regional cuisines as well as some truly outstanding<br />
fushion offerings.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 -<br />
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. TJABSW<br />
Juice bars<br />
Sulčius B-2, Totorių 15, tel. (+370) 603 531 02. <strong>In</strong>stantly<br />
recognisable if you’ve ever been to Brighton or Berlin, this<br />
handsome-looking little juice bar that bears more than a<br />
passing resemblance to a 1970s hippy’s kitchen also sells<br />
a wealth of other things from biodegradable washing powder<br />
to samosas. The juice in question, which could do with being<br />
a little colder, is concocted by flustered girls with nose rings<br />
to a soundtrack courtesy of Bob Marley. Limited seating is<br />
available if you don’t want to ingest your vitamins on the hoof.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
PJNSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Kebabs<br />
Baku-Ceyhan C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 607 747 27,<br />
www.eurodoner.lt. Don’t let the stereotype fool you, for<br />
what appears at first glance to be just another kebab shop is<br />
hiding a proper restaurant serving not only excellent kebabs<br />
in the finest Turkish tradition but whose menu also features<br />
a few splendid dishes from Azerbaijan and Georgia. For those<br />
who like their meat of the highest quality and prepared in a<br />
way only those from the Caucasus can do, this is definitely one<br />
for the 2012 dinner diary. QOpen 24hrs. 10Lt. JAS<br />
Korean<br />
Sura H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 277 70 00, www.<br />
sura.lt. A brilliantly thrown-together design of bare concrete,<br />
flashing lights and a few more conservative elements surround<br />
diners whilst they feast on a menu made up of mostly<br />
decent sushi plus a few classic Korean dishes. The pulkogi<br />
was a bit lacking in vegetables but the beef was good and<br />
the sauce was exceptional. They even serve it with short<br />
grain rice for that final authentic touch. The giggling (homegrown)<br />
waitresses are fun too, although why they chose to<br />
put it in a shopping centre in the middle of nowhere with a<br />
rather depressing view is hard to fathom. Definitely worth the<br />
bother anyway. A taxi there if called in advance is about 10Lt.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PTASW<br />
Lithuanian Karaite<br />
Kibin <strong>In</strong>n A-2, Vilniaus 21, tel. (+370) 676 444 22,<br />
www.kibininn.lt. Kibin, kybyn, kibinai, however you<br />
choose to spell it, one of the most popular dishes in the eastern<br />
half of the country comes from the Lithuanian Karaite<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
(or Karaim), a mysterious Turkish sect embracing elements<br />
of Judaism and Islam who’ve been resident in the area for<br />
600 years and whose national dish is a Cornish pasty-type<br />
affair usually filled with mutton or pork and dripping with<br />
fat. Delicious indeed. This strangely decorated Lithuanian<br />
celebration of the food is currently the best place in town<br />
to try them. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 6Lt.<br />
PTJABSW<br />
Fusion<br />
Coco Restobar B-2, Labdarių 8, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
29 09. A huge padded mirror over the door marks the<br />
spot where Coco Restobar can be located. <strong>In</strong>side is a<br />
well though-out affair populated with a mostly young<br />
and intelligent crowd who when they’re not drinking and<br />
ogling the DJs take advantage of a cracking little changing<br />
menu of great experimental food with a distinctive<br />
Asian twist. A small garden should also open as soon<br />
as the weather improves. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu<br />
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABSW<br />
Reinis The Cook Ševčenkos 16a (Daiktų<br />
Viešbutis), tel. (+370) 662 743 39. Reinaldas churns<br />
out a range of interesting, good-looking dishes using a<br />
blend of sound knowledge and improvisation. Somewhere<br />
between a café and a restaurant, find it inside one of the<br />
most fashionable designer shops in the city. Top marks<br />
for joining the 21st century. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. 15Lt. PTNSW<br />
August - November 2012<br />
39
40 restaurants<br />
Mexican<br />
Sofa de Pancho B-5, Visų Šventųjų 5, tel. (+370) 673<br />
890 02. We like what’s currently going on in this part of town.<br />
Like much of the service, openings may be slow but they’re<br />
always interesting. Sofa de Pancho may not have any Mexicans<br />
working in the open kitchen but that doesn’t stop them from<br />
being enthusiastic and actually not too bad at cooking. Probably<br />
the best thing about the place though, like the bar next<br />
door, is that everything’s been thrown together in a jumble-sale<br />
fashion that quite simply adds a touch of class to a city with<br />
just too many sterile restaurants. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat<br />
13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 19Lt. TJABSW<br />
Tres Mexicanos C-2, Tilto 2, tel. (+370) 674 186 00,<br />
www.tresmexicanos.lt. Freshly decorated for 2012, the<br />
Mexican-owned Tres Mexicanos continues to be the best place<br />
in town for authentic Mexican food. Boasting a superb location<br />
just around the corner from the Cathedral, this intimate, brightly<br />
decorated affair features all the classic dishes plus proper beer<br />
to wash it down with, all overseen by people in the kitchen who<br />
know how to make the stuff and waiting staff who can advise on<br />
important issues such as which dish is likely to blow your head<br />
off. Further proof that Vilnius is no longer a provincial backwater<br />
but a city to be reckoned with. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun<br />
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 21Lt. PJABS<br />
Pancakes<br />
La Crepe A-1, Gedimino 13, tel. (+370) 616 465 49, www.<br />
lacrepe.lt. Featuring a fairly gargantuan collection of pancakes<br />
both sweet and sour in the perfect central location, as well as<br />
serving the aforementioned blynai this is also a worthy place for<br />
a quick coffee and a slice of cake. Popular with the local workers<br />
in the area, the menu extends well beyond the pancake zone to<br />
include hot dishes from both home and abroad and that all time<br />
favourite, pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JAB<br />
Fast food<br />
KFC G-3/4, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 205 99<br />
72. The main Vilnius address for the Lithuanian KFC<br />
franchise is a large building located close to Gedimino and<br />
the river in the city centre. Serving up all your favourite<br />
KFC dishes, the place is genuinely worth a visit if you’re<br />
a fan of Colonel Sanders as, unlike many other places to<br />
eat in town, the owners keep a close eye on things. They<br />
also have counter on the top floor of the Ozas shopping<br />
centre if you happen to be visiting. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas).<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. PTAUSW<br />
McDonald’s A-1, Gedimino 15, tel. (+370) 685<br />
421 78, www.mcd.lt. Vilnius’ premier address for<br />
their string of outlets in the city can be found on the<br />
main street that leads to the Cathedral. The décor inside<br />
the large, two floor space has been specially designed<br />
to give a local flavour, and you’ll find both the classic<br />
McDonald’s layout as well as a McCafé inside. There’s<br />
also a small window where food and drink can be ordered<br />
around the clock. Also at Seinų 3, Kareivių 15, Ukmergės<br />
173, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,<br />
Sat 07:00 - 05:00. Open 00:00 - 05:00, 06:00 - 00:00<br />
(Thu, Fri, Sat). Open 07:00 - 03:00 (Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed).<br />
10Lt. PTJABSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Pizza<br />
Charlie Pizza C-4, Vokiečių 3, tel. (+370) 695 304<br />
11, www.charlie.lt. The nationwide Charlie Pizza chain<br />
serves classic and exotic pizzas alongside other international<br />
fare throughout the land. Their Old Town location<br />
is on one of the best streets in the city. Good value for<br />
money any day of the week, keep an eye out for their<br />
special offers which make eating in Vilnius almost free at<br />
times. For those with kids in tow, the Panorama branch<br />
offers all kinds of incentives for young children to visit. Also<br />
at Pilies 8. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. JA<br />
Čili Pica A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90<br />
71, www.cili.lt. The bible-proportioned menu includes<br />
a frightening array of decent pizzas as well as a small yet<br />
well-chosen collection of pasta and meat dishes to boot.<br />
Those who are generally offended by the possibility of<br />
smothering one’s meal in tomato ketchup really should<br />
try it. It’s actually not that bad. To top it all (so to speak),<br />
the service is usually very good indeed. Also at Didžioji<br />
5. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. 15Lt.<br />
PTJAVBSW<br />
Gourmet Pizza C-2, Gedimino 52/1, tel. (+370) 606 043<br />
54. A novel approach to a pizza place, Gourmet Pizza comes<br />
with its own deli as well as selling a small range of pre-cooked<br />
pizza slices that rank among the best in town. Also serving an<br />
average set business lunch, try to avoid during the middle of<br />
the day as it gets stupidly chaotic to the point that even the<br />
stoic locals leave the queue and go somewhere else. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 8Lt. TJASW<br />
Pizza Hut Express H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5<br />
259 61 28. Under new management and a much better<br />
experience all round, Lithuania’s adventures into the world<br />
of pizza franchising are finally worth talking about with a<br />
positive spin. The slice of deep-pan pizza we recently gobbled<br />
down hit the spot exactly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 13Lt.<br />
PTAUSW<br />
Pomodoro A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 22, www.<br />
pomodoro.lt. After numerous visits to several Pomodoro restaurants<br />
it’s still almost impossible to fault them. For the price,<br />
the pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak<br />
continues to amaze and impress. Service is attentive, salads<br />
lower their standard during the winter like they do anywhere in<br />
the north, and the early morning pancakes continue to be a fine<br />
way to start the day. Also at P. Lukšio 32, Goštauto 40c. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PTJAUBSW<br />
Submarine B-3, Vilniaus 37, tel. (+370) 616 344 21,<br />
www.submarinas.lt. Latter-day Teutonic Knights of the<br />
pizza world, Submarine just won’t leave Lithuania alone.<br />
Preferring to serve Italian food rather than convert people<br />
to Christianity, Submarine also provide free wireless internet<br />
which is something the marauding Germans never did.<br />
The pizzas are good for the price, the staff are genuinely<br />
friendly and for lovers of trivia the place was named after<br />
the make-believe yellow underwater vessel made popular by<br />
the Beatles. Welcome to Vilnius. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri<br />
08:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. 15Lt.<br />
PTABSW<br />
Užupio Picerija D-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215 36<br />
66. Parked in a street just around the corner from the Užupis<br />
Angel, this tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy or<br />
dead as a door nail. Whatever state it’s found in, the pizza<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
they serve is decent enough if not exactly gourmet. Eschew<br />
the other meals and stick to the house food and you’ll be<br />
just fine. Service is of course amusing, and the outdoor<br />
seating during the warmer part of the year is exceedingly<br />
pleasant. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
17Lt. JABSW<br />
Russian<br />
Царское Cело H-2, Šeimyniškių 3, tel. (+370) 5 272<br />
86 18, www.carskojeselo.lt. Named after a former home<br />
of the Russian royal family, these classic Russian-themed restaurants<br />
pander to the average crowd, are child-friendly and<br />
come with all the folk-themed trappings any self-respecting<br />
restaurant of this kind needs. The food is exceptionally good<br />
for a chain restaurant, providing a fine introduction to the<br />
cuisine of the world’s largest country. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 18Lt.<br />
PTAEBS<br />
Salad<br />
Mano Guru B-2, Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
01 26. Opened in August 2004 and still going strong, the<br />
recommended Mano Guru offers a mind-boggling array of<br />
substantial salads plus desserts and soft drinks in something<br />
of a boutique setting. Popular particularly with women<br />
watching their weight, other people are encouraged to visit<br />
not least because of the idea behind the place. Begun on<br />
the initiative of local legend and resurrected mayor of Vilnius<br />
Artūras Zuokas, over half of the staff working here are recovering<br />
drug addicts involved in what’s probably the most<br />
enlightened project in the city, and one that’s well worth<br />
supporting. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. 15Lt. TJASW<br />
August - November 2012<br />
41
42 restaurants<br />
Sandwiches<br />
Gimme C-5, Aušros Vartų 4, tel. (+370) 685 006 84. Now<br />
in its third incarnation and possessing its third name in as many<br />
years, the best thing about this place was the fact that they somehow<br />
managed to get a bus inside. Sadly, the new management<br />
have seen fit to not exactly throw it out but to cunningly disguise<br />
it so it just looks a bit like a bank. Out go the pancakes and the<br />
kebabs and in comes a small choice of sandwiches including one<br />
vegetarian option and a handful of soups. The location is unbeatable,<br />
although for the simple pleasure of eating meat wrapped in<br />
bread we recommend the kebab shop at the far bottom of the<br />
street on the right.QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 05:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 9 Lt. JA<br />
Soup<br />
Sriubos Namai B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 683 152<br />
56. Conjuring comparisons with 1930s Britain, Vilnius is at the<br />
time of writing in a bit of a soup restaurant-opening mood. This<br />
latest attempt, far from providing bland, vitamin-rich comfort<br />
at rock-bottom prices produces bland, vitamin-rich comfort at<br />
a mildly alarming cost. Add to this the addition of thin slices of<br />
stale bread and what you’ve got is a sad attempt in a street<br />
usually better known for its good food. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 12Lt. PTAUSW<br />
Spanish<br />
California Tapas & Wine C-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370)<br />
652 655 51, www.california.lt. Growing from strength to<br />
strength, it’s a breath of fresh air to see a restaurant in Lithuania<br />
improve over time rather than the usual opposite. Aiming to<br />
introduce tapas to the local population among other things, this<br />
Spanish-themed restaurant-bar on two floors provides a bit of<br />
everything, from a first-floor café complete with open kitchen<br />
serving dishes including Basque fish soup to grilled meat to a<br />
labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating and<br />
drinking. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00.<br />
16Lt. PTJABSW<br />
Steak<br />
Markus ir Ko C-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 31<br />
85, www.markusirko.lt. Serving various bits of cow to those<br />
who can afford it for as long as many care to remember, Markus<br />
ir Ko is an institution that fails to go away. Once famed for cooking<br />
the best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely<br />
upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by others but<br />
still knocks out by almost everybody’s account a damn fine steak.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PTJAESW<br />
Meat Lovers Pub B-3, Šv. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 652<br />
512 33, www.meatloverspub.lt. Cooking meat to perfection,<br />
we had a steak that couldn’t be argued with, a soup that was<br />
up there with soups costing five times as much and some pork<br />
that was absolutely the best meat we’ve eaten in Vilnius for<br />
months. The service isn’t great and there wasn’t much in the<br />
way of heating, but don’t let these minor blips deter diners from<br />
some of the best value meat in town. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,<br />
Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 20:00. 25Lt. PTABSW<br />
Steak House Hazienda D-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel),<br />
tel. (+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Using beef from<br />
cattle grazed on Lithuanian grassland, Steak House Hazienda<br />
has been through a bit of a wobbly period but is now back<br />
on track. We recently demolished a sirloin steak which was<br />
cooked perfectly and that came with an excellent choice of<br />
garnishes. Beware of the complimentary appetiser of homemade<br />
bread, as it may leave you with no space left inside to<br />
finish the main course. A welcome return of high standards<br />
from one of our old favourites. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 60Lt.<br />
PTJAEBW<br />
Sushi<br />
Sushi Express G-3, J. Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370) 699 693<br />
43, www.sushiexpress.lt. It’s a bit cheeky using the word<br />
express in a restaurant name when waiting can easily take<br />
40 minutes or so, but if you can put up with a long wait you’ll<br />
probably be as impressed with Sushi Express as we are. The<br />
local lad in their new Konstitucijos venue who makes the stuff<br />
looks like he’s only just stopped wearing short trousers but he<br />
certainly knows his stuff. The menu is impressive, and the last<br />
offering of tempura yasai we gorged on was absolutely spot<br />
on. If not the best then certainly the most consistent place for<br />
sushi in town. Also at Konstitucijos 20. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 16Lt. PABSW<br />
Uzbek<br />
Čaichana A-4, Naugarduko 14, tel. (+370) 611 411 19,<br />
www.caichana.lt. Pay no attention to the garish décor and<br />
the bewildered staff bumbling about with grubby orange Crocs<br />
on their feet and what you’ve got here is a truly outstanding<br />
restaurant, assuming you eat meat that is. The lagman (laghman)<br />
takes an age to arrive, but the homemade noodles and<br />
exquisite sauce are more than worth the time and effort the<br />
chef put into them. Also on offer on the Lithuanian-only menu<br />
are Uzbek kebabs, lots of delicious dishes made with fresh<br />
yoghurt, a recommended mantai (manti) and hot bread made<br />
on the premises. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 22:00,<br />
Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
17Lt. PTJAUSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
NEW<br />
Uzbekistanas A-1, Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 04<br />
29. A truly welcome addition to Vilnius’ restaurant scene,<br />
Uzbekistanas operates on the posher end of the décor<br />
scale but stays true to the cuisine of the country the place<br />
is named after. The only problem here is knowing what<br />
to choose, either because Uzbek food has passed you<br />
by entirely or because every dish demands to be eaten.<br />
Amidst a fine selection of items on the menu including a<br />
chayhana plov that needs to be ordered 90 minutes in<br />
advance alongside the more usual plov we went for the<br />
lagman, a spicy lamb and noodle soup that’s almost a<br />
meal in itself and a plate of manti, essentially oversized<br />
ravioli with soured cream that were both prepared and<br />
cooked to perfection. It’s a bit pricey here, but well worth<br />
the expense. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
25Lt. PTJAUVEBSW<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Balti Drambliai B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 08<br />
75. Struggle down a set of wobbly medieval steps to a cacophony<br />
of sitars and whale songs to be served a range of average<br />
vegetarian fare from a menu that regularly changes colour but<br />
more or less stays the same otherwise by waitresses whose<br />
cigarette breaks often bring them back inside with big grins on<br />
their faces. Welcome to the crazy world of Balti Drambliai (White<br />
Elephants), the restaurant that didn’t put the hip in hippy but<br />
that’s worth a visit all the same. The food’s cheap and perfectly<br />
safe, and the live music and parties can be fun, especially when<br />
it’s warm outside and they open up their legendary terrace.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABW<br />
Raw42 B-5, Rūdninkų 12, tel. (+370) 659 530 29,<br />
www.raw42.lt. Recently popping up in another little<br />
triangle of Vilnius currently making something of a name<br />
for itself, the food stretches beyond sandwiches and they<br />
even offer short courses in making food. Very trendy and<br />
very welcome, note that none of the food is cooked at a<br />
temperature higher that +42°C. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 10Lt. JNBS<br />
Raw Raw C-2, Totorių 3, tel. (+370) 699 520 22, www.<br />
rawraw.lt. Recently upping sticks and moving to far more<br />
sensible location, Raw Raw is a slightly misleading name<br />
because they use ovens, although the bread is dried not<br />
cooked. That aside, what they do produce is good healthy<br />
food made from unprocessed ingredients. The menu is fairly<br />
extensive and includes everything from vitamin-packed salads<br />
to pasta dishes made from vegetables. Also a good selection<br />
of freshly squeezed fruit juices. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 18:00. 15Lt. PTJABS<br />
Vegafé C-4, Augustijonų 2/13, tel. (+370) 659 770<br />
72. An excellent little addition to Vilnius’ small selection<br />
of vegetarian restaurants, this one features an impressive<br />
menu of dishes made from fresh ingredients and with a nod<br />
in the general direction of Asia. The freshly squeezed fruit<br />
juices are especially good here and the food comes in all<br />
shapes and sizes from simple snacks to full blown meals.<br />
Also at Totorių 3. QOpen 11:00 - 21:30. 11Lt. JS<br />
Vieta B-3, Šv. Ignoto 12-1, tel. (+370) 687 134 75.<br />
It’s all funny haircuts, constant references to ganja and<br />
A Tribe Called Quest inside Vilnius’ newest vegetarian<br />
restaurant. Friendly if your face fits and good value for<br />
money, the food’s basic but edible, although writing the<br />
menu on one of the tablecloths is a bit silly. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 02:00. 10Lt. TJW<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
August - November 2012<br />
43
44 nightliFe<br />
The Lithuanian capital’s disparate nightlife options run the<br />
breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and budget,<br />
from quiet cafés full of serious-looking men huddled over a<br />
game of chess to steamy underground caverns dedicated<br />
to the time-honoured pursuit of getting ordinarily level-headed<br />
businessmen so horribly drunk that they willingly empty<br />
the contents of their bank account inside a stripper’s knickers.<br />
Now that the city’s wine-drinking crowd have been given<br />
their own places to imbibe, Vilnius’ nightlife entrepreneurs<br />
are turning their attention to the subject of beer, namely<br />
with the regular opening of a new place selling warm brown<br />
froth made in small microbreweries around the country. The<br />
best are of course listed here. Clubs remain almost exclusively<br />
mainstream, whilst the city’s gay and lesbian scene<br />
is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site.<br />
With the exception of perhaps Pyongyang, no capital city in<br />
the world is without its more sinister side, and that includes<br />
Vilnius. Violence and alcohol occasionally combust into<br />
fisticuffs, and with wages to make a sweatshop worker stay<br />
in bed it’s no surprise to learn that wallets, mobile phones<br />
and even the occasional camera disappear from ineptly attended<br />
tables, pockets and bags. Finally, face control is ever<br />
on the rise. If yours doesn’t fit, forget it. Have fun!<br />
Bars<br />
Alaus Studija E-1, S. Žukausko 20, tel. (+370) 685<br />
608 85. Exactly why it took just over a thousand years for<br />
somebody to open a really outstanding bar in Vilnius is anyone’s<br />
guess, but open it they finally did. True, the location could be<br />
more central, but when it’s as good as this there’s no particular<br />
need to complain. Selling only foreign beers alongside a few<br />
stronger options and decorated with leftover technology from<br />
the recently expired Lithuanian Film Studios, the Murphy’s is<br />
refreshingly affordable and goes down a treat. A menu of bar<br />
snacks is also available, plus there’s hot nachos, nuts and<br />
blankets for chilly spring evenings sat outside on the terrace.<br />
A taxi from Old Town shouldn’t cost more than 10Lt. Highly<br />
recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PAB<br />
Amatininkų Užeiga C-4, Didžioji 19/2, tel. (+370) 687<br />
223 66. An Old Town institution popular with locals and tourists<br />
alike, the service here has always been pretty bad even at<br />
the best of times although that’s never stopped the punters<br />
from coming. The nondescript interior fills during the colder<br />
part of the year with a motley collection of inebriated locals<br />
whilst the sprawling outdoor terrace continues to be one of<br />
the most popular drinking spots in the city. If you can handle<br />
the wait, the food is edible and, best of all, famously keeps<br />
arriving on your table until sunrise. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00. PJABW<br />
NEW<br />
Entry C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 624 943 17. Hovering<br />
mid-way between sports bar and a pool venue, this place<br />
just makes it into this section on account of the 12 plasma<br />
screens that show regular local and international sporting<br />
events. There’s a decent bar too, and even the option to eat.<br />
As for its pool venue credentials, find six excellent pool tables<br />
and a further table for snooker. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 02:00. PJNSW<br />
Fortas H-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 652 011 38, www.fortas.eu.<br />
Despite its slightly crappy beer collection, Fortas can<br />
do no wrong. Perched up on top of the hill above Old Town, this<br />
always busy spot plays host to everyone from shady-looking<br />
Russian-speakers without any hair to immaculately turned out<br />
Japanese tourists. Perfect for an outdoor summertime drink<br />
despite the appalling view and equally rewarding indoors, it<br />
would be unfair to not mention the food, which is consistently<br />
marvellous. Top banana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PABW<br />
Gringo A-3, Vilniaus 31/1, tel. (+370) 654 905 41. The<br />
friendly bar staff certainly make a change from many others in<br />
the area, and the cold beers on offer are both well chosen and<br />
priced (Gringo currently serves one of the best pints of Guinness<br />
in the region). Also find the added incentives of free wireless<br />
internet and table football. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Tue, Wed<br />
11:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JABW<br />
Summer Bars<br />
Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, who’ve<br />
simultaneously realised the potential of the city centre’s<br />
empty spaces and stuffed great big bars in several<br />
of them. This may seem somewhat passé to many a<br />
reader but for the locals it’s literally a breath of fresh air.<br />
Even better, most, if not all by the time this sentence is<br />
finished, come with a clutch of DJs to help swing things<br />
along. The following list is far from complete, but does at<br />
least represent the best of the bunch. All listed venues<br />
will be open until the end of the good weather, some<br />
time around the start of October.<br />
Sensus Terasa B-2, Totorių 13, tel. (+370) 5<br />
261 46 93, www.bonussensus.lt. Occupying the<br />
former Chaplin Terasa space for those who remember<br />
it, the good people at Sensus Bar & Grill have caught<br />
the summer terrace bug and are at the time of going to<br />
press fighting the elements with this cracking outdoor<br />
space mid-way between Old Town and Gedimino. A good<br />
alternative to most of the other summer terraces in town<br />
that tend to attract a younger crowd, this one aims to<br />
keep a broader public whilst keeping the summer bar<br />
tradition of serving cold beer and providing a range of<br />
evening entertainment. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun<br />
14:00 - 24:00. JAB<br />
Vasaros Terasa B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 620<br />
856 89. <strong>In</strong>side the large Mokytojų Namai courtyard,<br />
Vasaros Terasa (Summer Terrace) functions as all<br />
things but is most comfortable in its role as a bar. A<br />
great location for a drink any time of day, the people who<br />
come here tend to be young and about as alternative<br />
as it gets in Vilnius. Service is consistently dreadful, but<br />
once you’ve resigned yourself to the fact that there’s<br />
nothing you can do about it, it’s definitely one of the<br />
top summer spots in the city. The courtyard also plays<br />
host to a regular supply of music acts and DJs as well<br />
as the occasional work of art. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri<br />
11:00 - 03:30, Sat 12:00 - 03:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
JEBXSW<br />
Vienuolyno Kiemas B-3, Trakų 9/1. Currently the<br />
top venue among the city’s outdoor drinking spaces,<br />
this place is embarrassingly difficult to find for some<br />
people who claim to call Vilnius home. Find friendly<br />
staff, affordable drinks, a family atmosphere, plenty of<br />
wooden platforms for tripping over and the best pick<br />
of the DJs currently playing to outdoor crowds in the<br />
capital. The marvellous setting is somewhat ruined by<br />
a proliferation of massive umbrellas (here’s a tip for you<br />
Vienuolyno Kiemas, why don’t you take them down when<br />
it’s not raining eh?), although after the sixth beer you’ll<br />
hardly notice. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. JE<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
NEW<br />
Leičiai C-4, Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 90 87. The<br />
next logical step in the evolution of the specialist Lithuanian<br />
beer bar, Leičiai also doubles as a restaurant serving classic<br />
traditional local food. As well as a space for drinking<br />
the range of superb Lithuanian beers on offer from small<br />
microbreweries around the country, this pleasant watering<br />
hole also features two dining halls, one with an open kitchen<br />
and a small beer garden out the back. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
PJABSW<br />
Marsas B-3, Trakų 15, tel. (+370) 616 513 77. The<br />
former Bobo is now called Marsas, and although they’re doing<br />
their very best to offer something interesting and slightly<br />
alternative like their predecessor, it’s all a bit vague in here.<br />
There’s a good range of alcohol behind the bar, an imaginative<br />
menu (the burger and fries are supposed to be very good<br />
indeed) and a prerequisite DJ, but it’s not really working out<br />
in our opinion. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00,<br />
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. JAW<br />
(M)isterija B-2/3, Totorių 18, tel. (+370) 5 212 50 51,<br />
www.misterija.lt. Popular with a regular crowd of friendly hedonists,<br />
the drinks menu is fairly impressive and the food is more than<br />
edible. Extras at press time include board games, a regular pub<br />
quiz which can be translated into English for non-native-speakers,<br />
themed weekend parties and a policy that encourages people<br />
to dance on the bar if they feel so inclined. The website features<br />
photographs of girls in bras and gentlemen on stag dos. You get<br />
the idea. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 -<br />
06:00, Sun 18:00 - 04:00.PJASW<br />
Piano Man A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 650 969<br />
25. Consistently busy during the weekend when propping up<br />
the bar is generally the only option left for people arriving after<br />
21:00, the mixed and predominantly chirpy crowd at Piano Man<br />
provides a buzz lacking in many of its competitors. The bar<br />
stocks a good range of drinks including draught Guinness and<br />
Hoegaarden, there’s table football in the corner and from time<br />
to time there’s also the added bonus of live music. An excellent<br />
choice indeed for anyone looking for a place to add to their pub<br />
crawl or for staying the course and spending the entire evening<br />
here. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00<br />
- 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PJAB<br />
Plieno Paukštis H-4, K. Kalinausko 11b, tel. (+370) 5<br />
231 21 81. Blink and you’d miss it, the Steel Bird is one of<br />
those rare finds that leads to something akin to a love affair<br />
once discovered. Discreet during the winter, this is the perfect<br />
place for a fireside tryst, whilst the warmer parts of the year<br />
trumpet the opening of a magnificent secluded garden. Full of<br />
staff from the American embassy during the week, the place<br />
is given back to the locals at the weekend and is well worth<br />
the treck up the hill. Recommended is their cheese-covered<br />
kepta duona, a real treat with a couple of ice-cold beers.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
Closed Sun. AB<br />
Pogo A-2, Vilniaus 12, tel. (+370) 604 195 67, www.<br />
pogobaras.lt. You can say what you like about rock fans but<br />
you can’t deny the fact that the ones who opened Pogo should<br />
be hugged and generally smothered in affection. Risking their<br />
necks transforming an empty Chinese restaurant into a bar<br />
with a live music venue at a time when the economy was<br />
falling to pieces, our heroes have been rewarded with a loyal<br />
clientele of lads and lasses in leather and a damn fine place<br />
to drink if this is your sort of thing. The beer is stupidly cheap<br />
and the kepta duona is what drinking was invented for. Totally<br />
recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri 18:00 - 06:00, Sat<br />
18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAEW<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
nightliFe<br />
ŠMC C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 656 756 17. Round<br />
the back of the Contemporary Arts Centre and equipped<br />
with staff and clientele to suit, although it’s a bit cramped<br />
and frequently morose indoors during the colder part of the<br />
year the arrival of the city’s clement weather brings with it<br />
a concrete terrace that can get extremely lively during the<br />
evenings. An interesting option for a drink and the possibility<br />
of meeting some of the city’s more imaginative inhabitants<br />
and even play chess if you so desire. Not bad food either.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJABSW<br />
Transilvanija B-4, Mėsinių 3, tel. (+370) 5 203 43<br />
79. A good old-fashioned beer-drinking venue popular with<br />
a 20-something crowd and with a penchant for rock music,<br />
Transilvanija recently moved to a great new Old Town location<br />
and continues to bring in the crowds. Featuring an excellent<br />
stock of booze and a weekly pub quiz on Wednesdays at<br />
19:00, the latest news is the opening on May 1 of a large<br />
beer garden in the square opposite. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PJAB<br />
Universiteto Pub B-3, Dominikonų 9, tel. (+370) 678<br />
833 63. A slightly streamlined Universiteto has shed its wine<br />
and sports appendages and is now functioning more or less as<br />
a bar with a backup plan of pub grub and the occasional student<br />
party. With a clutch of worthy drinking holes in the immediate<br />
area, this one-time expat favourite has had a hard time since<br />
it relaunched, but it seems to be doing ok with a more rowdy<br />
crowd of local youngsters who appreciate the affordable prices<br />
and endless procession of blondes. A great people-watching<br />
pub, although almost certainly not one for spending the entire<br />
evening in. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Tue, Wed 22:00 - 05:00,<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PJAW<br />
August - November 2012<br />
45
Clubs<br />
Due to the universal law stating that it’s impossible to be in<br />
all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are written<br />
to provide a general overview of what’s to be expected<br />
if you visit them. As any serious clubber already knows,<br />
nights change with alarming regularity, good promoters<br />
come and go and expected crowds fail to turn up. The good<br />
news about clubbing in Vilnius is that entrance prices are<br />
relatively low and the city is remarkably small. If you happen<br />
to stumble on a non-event, relocating to another club is<br />
both quick and affordable.<br />
Brodvėjus B-4, Mėsinių 4, tel. (+370) 652 577 90,<br />
www.brodvejus.lt. Celebrated for the slightly creepy fact<br />
that this is arguably the top spot in town for visiting foreigners<br />
of a questionable age to leer at teenage girls, downstairs is<br />
primarily for dancing, spilling drinks and getting stuck in conversations<br />
with local simpletons, whilst the quieter upstairs<br />
bar is always worth a go, especially if you want to sit down.<br />
Still hugely popular, live acts include everything from DJs who’d<br />
find it hard to get a gig at a wedding to the occasional decent<br />
band. QOpen Mon 22:00 - 02:00, Tue 20:00 - 03:00, Wed,<br />
Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00.<br />
Entrance free - 20Lt. PJAEW<br />
Cocainn B-2, Gedimino 2a, tel. (+370) 600 478 62.<br />
Occupying three main rooms catering to different tastes,<br />
there’s a lounge for cocktails and the dreaded Tuborg, a<br />
quiet room where guests can eat from a menu of gourmet<br />
dishes and a good old-fashioned night club with dancing girls<br />
dressed as nurses among other things. There’s also a place<br />
for smoking cigars. The perfect introduction to Eastern European<br />
nightlife. QOpen Tue 22:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 22:00<br />
- 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Entrance<br />
10Lt. PJAXW<br />
Opium A-2, Islandijos 4. Located in the brickwork bowels of<br />
Briusly, Opium is the brainchild of a small group of like-minded local<br />
DJs of some pedigree, each with their own distinctive take on<br />
the world. It’s a bit cramped down here, but for purists looking<br />
for some of the best DJs in the country there are few places to<br />
beat it at the moment. Opium is also currently one of the places<br />
to catch the legendary and highly recommended Mondayjazz<br />
sessions. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,<br />
Sat, Sun. Open from September 1. Entrance 10Lt. J<br />
Pabo Latino A-4, Trakų 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 45,<br />
www.pabolatino.lt. Featuring three halls and two bars of<br />
sheer class, Pabo Latino is an oasis of Latin culture in a country<br />
where human warmth is far from overwhelming. A tough but fair<br />
door policy keeps the low life out, meaning what you get inside<br />
is a well behaved bunch of good-looking people out for a fun<br />
evening in pleasant albeit sometimes frenetic surroundings.<br />
The music is both live and courtesy of DJs, the cocktail menu<br />
is massive and if you don’t know how to dance Latin style, they<br />
even organise lessons for anyone willing to give it a go. QOpen<br />
Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,<br />
Wed, Sun. Entrance 15 - 30Lt. PJAEBW<br />
Salento DiscoPub C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820<br />
15, www.salentodiscopub.com. Nights of foam in which<br />
the ladies get all wet and lathery, cheap offers on cocktails,<br />
deckchairs, large television screens and a predominantly<br />
young crowd are the things to expect inside this heaving Old<br />
Town favourite. The brainchild of Italian Piero, the idea is to<br />
bring an Italian and Spanish pub-disco feel to the Lithuanian<br />
capital. Each night promises a different theme, with music<br />
focusing on pop and old favourites. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.<br />
Entrance free - 25Lt. PJAEB<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
nightliFe<br />
August - November 2012<br />
47
48 nightliFe<br />
Seacret C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 670 232 37, www.<br />
seacret.lt. This Old Town club created by the owners of<br />
several successful Vilnius businesses offers cocktails from<br />
freshly squeezed juice, juggling barmen, DJs, live music and<br />
dancers. According to the people who run the place, visitors<br />
are promised a mysterious atmosphere, helped along no<br />
doubt by the fact that they’re also proud to announce that the<br />
name of the club cleverly conceals the words sea and secret.<br />
QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue,<br />
Wed, Sun. Entrance free. PJAEBW<br />
Cocktails<br />
Alchemikas A-2, Islandijos 1, tel. (+370) 612 998 00. It’s<br />
about time a cocktail bar came along that was more about the<br />
art of cocktails than the pretence of the cocktail bar sensation.<br />
Specialising in both classic and modern mixed drinks, it’s worth<br />
paying them a visit just to have a peep at the extraordinary<br />
interior, and if you do choose to stick around, expect to be<br />
bankrupt by the end of the evening thanks to the addictive<br />
allure of their magnificent mixology. Recommended. QOpen<br />
Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. JAB<br />
Berlin A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 609 616 16. If it<br />
really was in Berlin it wouldn’t be open for long, this rather halfarsed<br />
attempt at sophistication seems to think expensive<br />
clothes are more important than culture. Excellent for ogling<br />
dolly birds and little else, Berlin is at least in the part of the<br />
city that’s currently opening new and decent venues at the<br />
drop of a hat. There’s plenty more to choose from less than<br />
a minute away if you don’t like it. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJB<br />
LGBT Friendly<br />
Attitudes towards all<br />
manner of minority<br />
groups in Lithuania are<br />
slowly changing for the<br />
better, with a handful<br />
of brave individuals<br />
spearheading their respective<br />
campaigns<br />
armed with a combination<br />
of courage and a firm understanding of Lithuanian<br />
law. One such person is the openly gay 22-year-old film<br />
director Romas Zabarauskas, who recently returned to<br />
Vilnius after a period of mind-altering study in New York.<br />
Already gaining support for his day job from the likes of<br />
Gus Van Sant and John Cameron Mitchell, Zabarauskas<br />
recently turned his attention to the gaping chasm between<br />
attitudes towards the LGBT communities in New York and<br />
Vilnius in the form of a spontaneous decision to contact<br />
Vilnius’ bar and restaurant owners to see if they were<br />
willing to put small LGBT Friendly stickers (pictured) on<br />
the doors and windows of their premises. Despite the<br />
usual whinging and threats from certain conservative<br />
members of the local Municipality, reactions have been<br />
overwhelmingly positive, the result being that a growing<br />
number of venues in the Lithuanian capital now proudly<br />
proclaim their support for the LGTB community. This is<br />
good news for everyone, including LGBT visitors to Vilnius<br />
who no longer have to play a game of Russian roulette<br />
when visiting bars and restaurants that may or may not be<br />
owned and frequented by knuckle-heads. Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> would like to congratulate Romas and the other<br />
people who worked on the project and looks forward to<br />
continuing to write about an increasingly friendly city.<br />
Blusynė Lounge C-4, Savičiaus 5, tel. (+370) 605 191<br />
27. Recently reinventing itself as a cocktail bar has in no way<br />
compromised one of Vilnius’ more quirky and original bars, a<br />
compact affair with an improved garden out the back and a menu<br />
of dishes including some great soups and one of the capital’s<br />
better burgers. Popular with Vilnius’ trendier individuals this is a<br />
great choice for summer drinks and the chance to meet some<br />
of the city’s more interesting locals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PJBW<br />
Mojitos B-2, Totorių 11, tel. (+370) 601 125 55. Woe<br />
betide any Cuban or anybody who’s been to Cuba who<br />
ventures through the door of Mojitos, because as was to be<br />
expected this place is about as Cuban as the Helms-Burton<br />
Act. Billing itself as a Cuban cocktail bar, although there’s<br />
nothing wrong with their cocktails they’re not exactly the sort<br />
of thing that would set Havana alight, whilst the food is best<br />
left undiscussed (and in the kitchen). The good news is that<br />
on the saucy scale it doesn’t do a bad job at all, with plenty<br />
of sexy young things in their underwear jiggling about until the<br />
early hours. A good night out for a bit of fun, if you’re looking for<br />
something more authentic you’d better start saving for a flight<br />
across the Atlantic. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00,<br />
Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJAB<br />
Pantera A-2, A. Smetonos 5, tel. (+370) 657 614 45. Currently<br />
open just a couple of nights a week, Pantera is the latest<br />
cocktail bar to come crashing onto the scene in a city that quite<br />
frankly could do with a decent one. <strong>In</strong> the same capable hands<br />
as the people who run the best club in Kaunas, nights here are<br />
busy and fun although it’s arguably easier to get a visa for North<br />
Korea than make it past face control here. Word on the street<br />
from those handsome enough to have gained the approval of the<br />
beauty police on the door report back nothing but very good news<br />
indeed. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.<br />
Open from September 1. Entrance free. PJA<br />
Paparazzi B-2, Totorių 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 35, www.<br />
paparazzi.lt. Recently moving next door, Paparazzi continues<br />
to dazzle in the way only Lithuanians can dazzle with plenty<br />
on offer to help the cocktails go down. Popular with a youngish,<br />
after-work crowd, each evening sees something different<br />
going on from a pub quiz to table football tournaments to live<br />
jazz. The website’s in Lithuanian only but a quick Google<br />
translate provides enough to get the general idea of what to<br />
expect over the coming summer. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW<br />
Shooters A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 655 525 17,<br />
www.shooters.lt. Over 300 cocktails and the promise of<br />
being smothered with attention await visitors to this friendly,<br />
ever-so cocktail bar-looking cocktail bar. Complete with juggling<br />
bartenders, wacky furnishings and the cream of Vilnius hip cat<br />
community, other delights include special theme nights and a<br />
range of nibbles to stave off the hunger. Former visitors should<br />
take note that they’ve recently upped sticks and moved around<br />
a couple of corners. Beyond that it’s business as usual. QOpen<br />
17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW<br />
Wine<br />
<strong>In</strong> Vino C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 10,<br />
www.invino.lt. Catching on to the current craze for wine bars<br />
in the city early on, they’ve obviously got a real appreciation for<br />
wine of which they stock a fair amount. Perhaps best enjoyed<br />
on a Friday or Saturday night, this is one of the best places in<br />
town to mingle with the cream of the city’s C-list celebrities.<br />
One bone of contention though, namely a serious lack of<br />
toilet facilities. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00.<br />
PJAUBSW<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
La Bohème B-3, Šv. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10<br />
87. They still can’t cook pasta but they do at last have a<br />
space to drink outside when it’s warm, making Old Town’s<br />
favourite upscale boozer better than ever. The grandiose<br />
medieval interior is perfect for group celebrations (although<br />
you should definitely think twice before ordering the pasta),<br />
and the wine list is both thoughtful and extensive. All in all a<br />
most suitable venue for everyone from passing lads on the<br />
pull to a coach-load of grandmothers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. JABSW<br />
Mimoza/Vinchenso A-2, Islandijos 1/33, tel. (+370)<br />
652 935 87. A little bit of everything here inside one of<br />
the latest sensations to appear on the scene. Crowded<br />
much of the time, it’s both a classy wine bar complete<br />
with shop as well as an Asian restaurant serving the<br />
usual collection of dishes including butterfish sashimi,<br />
tofu soup, a range of tasting dishes and a couple of vegetarian<br />
options. Get here early if you want a seat and rub<br />
shoulders with some of the capital’s prettier specimens.<br />
On top of everything else, they’re attempting to woo even<br />
more customers by booking some decent DJs. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00.<br />
PJAESW<br />
Notre Vie C-3, Stiklių 10, tel. (+370) 614 245 21. Yet<br />
another wine bar, this one is small and intimate with friendly<br />
staff and a good selection of booze and snacks. Although<br />
nothing to get too excited about, it is at least the real thing<br />
unlike so many of the others in Vilnius. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.<br />
PJABSW<br />
Savas Kampas C-4, Vokiečių 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 32<br />
03, www.savaskampas.lt. Well this is a surprise. Certain<br />
that Savas Kampas was on the way out in the last issue,<br />
we’re now forced to eat a slice of humble pie. Constantly<br />
busy and with friendly staff to boot, we didn’t try the wine the<br />
last time we were here but the beer went down well and the<br />
atmosphere was excellent. Savas Kampas is without doubt<br />
a survivor. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri<br />
11:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JABW<br />
Tappo D’oro B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 7, tel. (+370)<br />
686 168 66. Hidden away between the Cathedral and the<br />
President’s Palace, this little gem adds yet another string<br />
to the maestro’s bow also known as contemporary Vilnius.<br />
Hitching a ride on the coat tails of the city’s current obsession<br />
with wine bars and gourmet food, Tappo D’oro is part<br />
wine bar and part delicatessen. As well as a chilled cabinet<br />
full of speciality meats, cheese and olives, find a tastefully<br />
decorated drinking area complete with a long list of Italian<br />
wines. Massively busy in 2010, the owners have gone and<br />
opened a second bar in the heart of Old Town. Also at Vokiečių<br />
8. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JABS<br />
Microbreweries<br />
For the record, our definition of a microbrewery includes<br />
bars selling beer from microbreweries scattered around<br />
the country. Enjoy.<br />
Bambalynė C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 5 240 56 70.<br />
Featuring a rapidly approaching total of close to 100 types of<br />
beer from microbreweries across the country and a spooky<br />
brick cellar ambience, Bambalynė counts among a number<br />
of specialist bars in the city catering to the tastes of those<br />
who like their ale local rather than multinational. The beers<br />
in question range from light to dark and should keep all but<br />
the fussiest from hours of drunken appreciation. A little bit<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
nightliFe<br />
classier than its counterparts, the bar is fashionable among<br />
the capital’s more urbane guzzlers, plus there’s a shop inside<br />
and a beer-tasting lounge for true aficionados. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 24:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PJAW<br />
Būsi Trečias B-2, Totorių 18, tel. (+370) 5 231 26<br />
98, www.busitrecias.lt. Meaning something along the<br />
lines of You’ll be the third, which in this part of the world<br />
spells bad luck, Būsi Trečias functions as one of the capital’s<br />
only microbreweries as well as a better than average<br />
place to dine on gut-busting local dishes. Downstairs is<br />
a genuinely good bar, whilst the large upper level has the<br />
feel of a demented German beer hall complete with sozzled<br />
groups of locals singing patriotic songs and falling<br />
off the wooden benches. The in-house beer is good stuff,<br />
although we recommend you steer clear of the flavoured<br />
versions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.<br />
PJABW<br />
Šnekutis B-5, Šv. Stepono 8, tel. (+370) 650 470 58.<br />
Not a microbrewery as such, Šnekutis sneaks into this section<br />
on account of hoarding traditional, microbrewery-brewed<br />
beers from all corners of the country. Some of this is live,<br />
meaning it only lasts a few days, not unlike the hangover<br />
that goes with the superb 12% Stačias from Panevėžys. A<br />
couple of large ones of these and you might find yourself<br />
rolling down the mysterious staircase by the toilet. Should<br />
this happen, don’t be surprised to find yourself fished out<br />
by the barman, a personable gentleman with a theatrical<br />
moustache. Highly recommended, and extremely popular,<br />
meaning it’s not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench<br />
with a strange Lithuanian man eating unidentified animal<br />
parts from a bowl. Rare for Lithuania, Šnekutis doesn’t have<br />
table service. Order at the bar. Also at Polocko 7a. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. PJS<br />
August - November 2012<br />
49
52 nightliFe<br />
LGBT<br />
Soho G-4, Švitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395<br />
67, www.sohoclub.lt. One main space for drinking<br />
and chatting and another for dance-orientated activities<br />
both sub-divided even further and decorated in the<br />
style of a vampire’s Council house. Punters have the<br />
chance to send SMS messages to a large screen for<br />
the purposes of making mobile phone companies rich.<br />
QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.<br />
Entrance free - 20Lt. A<br />
Live music<br />
Tamsta D-5, Subačiaus 11a/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 44 98,<br />
www.tamstaclub.lt. A brave attempt by the people who run<br />
the excellent music shop downstairs to bring live bands of<br />
many persuasions to a half-starved audience. Music ranges<br />
from jazz to art-rock to old fashioned rock and roll, there’s a<br />
long bar to keep everyone fed and watered, plus once a month<br />
they organise a so-called Open Mic Day where outsiders can<br />
come and improvise along with other like-minded musicians.<br />
QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri 19:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Open from September. Entrance 7 -<br />
30Lt. JAE<br />
Cabaret<br />
New York H-2, Kalvarijų 85, tel. (+370) 699 155 87,<br />
www.newyorkclub.lt. Opened in 2004 in the style of an<br />
old-fashioned musical theatre, New York’s finally found its feet<br />
as more of a live music club than anything else. Set among<br />
authentic theatrical décor, evenings here include everything<br />
from the occasional cabaret act to all sorts of music shows to<br />
the theatre’s long-running play, Urvinis Žmogus (Defending the<br />
Caveman). See their website for more information. Q Opening<br />
hours depend on repertoire. Entrance 20 - 70Lt. PAE<br />
Adult entertainment<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> doesn’t mention what one’s expected<br />
to pay for alcohol and ‘other services’ in the places<br />
listed in the Adult entertainment section of this guide.<br />
Although by no means expensive relatively speaking, strip<br />
clubs here aren’t exactly cheap. The memorable story of<br />
a visiting businessman from a country that shall remain<br />
nameless suffering an attack of serial private dancing and<br />
then not being able to pay his bill is one of many similar<br />
tales, and is worth remembering, especially if, as in the<br />
case of this gentleman, it’s someone from your embassy<br />
that has to get up in the middle of the night and sort it out.<br />
So, please, before you indulge too much, make sure you<br />
know exactly what you’re getting yourselves into.<br />
Club smarts<br />
You have a jolly smashing face<br />
Tavo veidelis klaikiai gražus<br />
Can I buy you a drink?<br />
Galiu pavaišinti gėrimu?<br />
Golly, you‘re a fabulous dancer!<br />
Vajetau, tu šoki nuostabiai!<br />
Get your coat sweetie, you‘ve pulled<br />
Susirink skudurus, zuiki, ir varom<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Casinos<br />
Nesė Casino (Pramogų Bankas) A -2,<br />
Pamėnkalnio 7/8, tel. (+370) 700 555 55, www.<br />
nese.lt. Q Open 24hrs. PJ<br />
Dolls H-3, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82.<br />
Dollicious! This is an absolutely fantastic place to indulge in<br />
the truly titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best in<br />
town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their scantily clad flesh<br />
before you, above you and possibly even beneath you for a<br />
price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from Old Town<br />
to visit the Barbie of your dreams. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Entrance 80Lt. PA<br />
Old Town Strip Club C-4, Rūdninkų 14, tel. (+370) 5<br />
212 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Expect a thumping, throbbing,<br />
erotically charged escapade. These ladies don’t mess around<br />
when it’s show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot<br />
of toys. The hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in<br />
this city, but the very best part might just be the deliciously<br />
innocent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their<br />
clothes on. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Entrance<br />
80Lt. PJA<br />
Paradise A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 630 111 12,<br />
www.paradiseclub.lt. This perfect combination of gentlemen’s<br />
leisure and entertainment provides a range of<br />
services and facilities from saucy dancing to whirlpools.<br />
What more could a man with a credit card need? They don’t<br />
call it Paradise for nothing. QOpen 20:00 - 07:00. Entrance<br />
100Lt. PJAW<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
nightliFe<br />
August - November 2012<br />
53
56 what to see<br />
Museums & Galleries<br />
Applied Arts Museum (Taikomosios Dailės Muziejus)<br />
D-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 5 262 80 80, www.<br />
ldm.lt. Housed inside what was the far northeast corner of<br />
the city’s original defensive walls, of which some including an<br />
original gate can still be seen inside, this worthy inclusion into<br />
the city’s national treasures is stuffed full of good things to<br />
see, among them little models of how the city once looked,<br />
furniture, paintings and much more besides. Among the permanent<br />
exhibits find three unmissable collections of sacred<br />
Lithuanian art including examples from both the Catholic and<br />
Orthodox Churches dating back as far as the 15th century.<br />
Temporary exhibitions also take place throughout the year.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Admission 6/3Lt. J<br />
Archaeology Museum (Archeologijos Muziejus)<br />
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 24 52. Rather awkward<br />
to find hidden away inside a courtyard opposite the<br />
funicular station, this often overlooked collection of clothing,<br />
documents and other articles tracing the history and culture<br />
of Lithuania from the 13th century to the present is equally<br />
interesting for being housed inside a splendid historical building<br />
that once made up part of the city’s defensive wall. Blind<br />
you with its ingenuity it won’t, but for a pleasant 30 minutes<br />
that takes in one or two especially lovely exhibits, locating<br />
the hole in the wall to find the entrance is definitely worth the<br />
bother. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (until April<br />
30). Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon<br />
(from May 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J<br />
Church Heritage Museum (Bažnytinio Paveldo<br />
Muziejus) D-3, Šv. Mykolo 9, tel. (+370) 5 269 78<br />
03, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Founded in October 2005 by the<br />
Archbishop of Vilnius, Audrys Juozas Bačkis, and moved<br />
to the splendour of the former 17th-century St. Michael’s<br />
Church in 2009, this recommended museum, which in reality<br />
celebrates just the Lithuanian Catholic Church, features two<br />
floors of paintings, liturgical articles, literature and some fine<br />
wooden carvings from the collections of some of the finest<br />
churches in the country. <strong>In</strong> English, and with an optional audio<br />
guide, there’s no thread to the things on display, although<br />
almost with exception each piece is fascinating in its own<br />
way. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission<br />
10/5Lt. J<br />
Genocide Victims’ Museum<br />
Essential Vilnius<br />
If you haven’t got a lot of time in Vilnius, the Cathedral-<br />
Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (p.59),<br />
Dawn Gate (p.61), Gediminas Castle & Museum (see<br />
below), Genocide Victims’ Museum (see below), and<br />
St. Anne’s Church (p.60) are generally considered to<br />
be the major sights. This list is of course highly subjective,<br />
and in no way reflects the expectations of every<br />
single visitor to the city. Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> strives<br />
to bring you the widest range of historical and cultural<br />
sights and sensations, and is adding to the list all the<br />
time. If you think there’s something missing, write to us<br />
and let us know.<br />
Diamond Museum (Deimantų Muziejus) B-4,<br />
Vokiečių 11, tel. (+370) 5 260 06 44, www.dsm.lt. A<br />
multimedia journey explaining the history and the processing<br />
of diamonds with the help of a disembodied voice emanating<br />
from a number of expensive televisions. Founded by Israeli<br />
businessman Eli Katz, who also owns the aforementioned<br />
voice, after taking the tour the final room sees a hologram<br />
of Mr. Katz in a room full of treasures and a computer game<br />
for children. An interesting museum indeed, but be warned,<br />
you can’t just walk around willy nilly, so be prepared to give<br />
up at least 30 minutes of your time to visit the place. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 15/10Lt. J<br />
Gediminas Castle & Museum (Gedimino Pilis ir<br />
Muziejus) C-1, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53.<br />
Dating from the 13th century the castle was rebuilt in 1419<br />
by Grand Duke Vytautas following the great fire of Vilnius. <strong>In</strong><br />
1610 it was used as a prison for the ruling classes, and during<br />
the 1655-1661 Russian occupation the towers and defensive<br />
walls were almost completely destroyed, with serious albeit<br />
only partial restoration work beginning (presumably by the<br />
Poles) as late as 1930. <strong>In</strong>side the tower itself find models of<br />
the castle as it was in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other<br />
miscellaneous bits and pieces concerned with the building’s<br />
history and knights in dented armour. The view on a good day<br />
is recommended. The walk to the top is a bit of a struggle for<br />
many, although there are benches thoughtfully provided along<br />
the way. Alternatively, use the funicular-type train (tickets<br />
3/2Lt) which runs up and down the hill’s northern slope. Find<br />
it hidden in a courtyard immediately west of the Applied Art<br />
Museum on Arsenalo. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00 (until April 30).<br />
Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from May 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J<br />
Genocide Victims’ Museum (Genocido Aukų Muziejus)<br />
G-4, Aukų 2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64, www.genocid.<br />
lt/muziejus. The sign outside reads that between 1940 and<br />
1991 this building housed the representative institutions of<br />
the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate<br />
almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called<br />
genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime.<br />
Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people<br />
wishing to understand this often bleak and violent period in the<br />
country’s history, what the sign fails to point out is that between<br />
1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by the Gestapo,<br />
whose role in the systematic murder of the vast majority of the<br />
city’s Jewish population with the willing participation of many<br />
ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely<br />
overlooked, although the recent addition of a room dedicated<br />
to just this issue is a welcome addition. Controversy aside, as<br />
a testament to the suffering endured by the ethnic Lithuanians,<br />
especially under the lunacy of Stalin, the place is a must-see for<br />
any visitor to Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Lithuanian Energy and Technology Museum (Lietuvos<br />
Energetikos ir Technikos Muziejus) I-3, Rinktinės<br />
2, tel. (+370) 5 278 20 85, www.emuziejus.lt. Housed<br />
inside Vilnius’ first power station, built in 1903, this tremendous<br />
museum is packed full of displays including a room full of old<br />
cars and motorbikes, a fascinating collection of machines and<br />
photographs dedicated to the post-war Soviet industrialisation<br />
of the country and the history of Lithuanian manufacturing in<br />
general plus, on the top floor, two rooms for children complete with<br />
touch-screen displays and interactive games aimed at explaining<br />
the basics of science, which is in English as well as Lithuanian.<br />
Everything has been built around the old power plant turbines<br />
and steam boilers, giving the place a really special atmosphere.<br />
Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5Lt.<br />
Lithuanian Radio & Television Museum (Lietuvos<br />
Radijo ir Televizijos Muziejus) F-4, Konarskio 49 (inside<br />
the LRT building), tel. (+370) 5 236 32 14, www.lrtc.lt. A<br />
little gem of a corridor lined with several large, glass-fronted displays<br />
showcasing the history of radio and television in Lithuania<br />
from its inception through to the modern day. Among the old radio<br />
sets, costumes and photographs of stars you won’t recognise<br />
is a fabulous selection of things dedicated to the tragic events<br />
of January 13, 1991, including the telephone used by Lithuanian<br />
television bosses to communicate with the KGB and a video<br />
camera complete with a smashed lens, courtesy of an unknown<br />
Russian soldier who shot it with his rifle. Q Open by appointment<br />
only. Admission free.<br />
Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Lietuvos<br />
Teatro, Muzikos ir Kino Muziejus) B-3, Vilniaus<br />
41, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 06, www.ltmkm.lt. Originating in<br />
1926 as a theatre museum and slowly collecting departments<br />
and exhibits over the decades until it became what it is today,<br />
this mildly interesting cultural diversion inside a glorious 18thcentury<br />
former palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history<br />
of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of<br />
harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings of<br />
famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including<br />
several displays given over to the life of the actress Unė Babickaitė<br />
(aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum<br />
of cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The<br />
museum also features several temporary exhibitions of painting<br />
and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard<br />
the place from pestering you every couple of minutes you might<br />
just find you enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the<br />
building. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Sun.Admission 5/3Lt. J<br />
Money Museum (Pinigų Muziejus) B-2, Totorių 2/8,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 268 03 34/(+370) 5 268 00 77. Featuring five<br />
small rooms on two floors celebrating the history of world and<br />
Lithuanian money, despite the inclusion of lots of fancy interactive<br />
bits and bobs and plenty of information in English, this relatively<br />
new museum’s best attribute is the fact that it’s free to enter. If<br />
money’s your hobby then there’s no doubt it’s worth a visit. If it<br />
isn’t, then it probably isn’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J<br />
National Art Gallery (Nacionalinė Dailės Galerija)<br />
G-3, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 60, www.ndg.<br />
lt. Found inside a renovated and enlarged building that once<br />
housed the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet<br />
Socialist Republic, this bold endeavour showcases the work<br />
of a multitude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and<br />
21st century. Among the commendable cast of contributors,<br />
examples on permanent display include work from a diverse<br />
range of artists including the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz<br />
(1891-1973) and the country’s most outstanding documentary<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
what to to see<br />
Vilnius City Card<br />
We’ve been delaying<br />
writing<br />
about the Vilnius<br />
City Card<br />
for a long time<br />
now, based on<br />
the simple fact<br />
that it never really<br />
offered value<br />
for money,<br />
a truth that’s no longer the case. Available from any<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre in the city (see p.7) and<br />
online via www.vilnius-tourism.lt, there are two different<br />
types of card valid for either 24 hours (58Lt) or 72<br />
hours (86Lt), both of which come with public transport,<br />
with a further 24-hour version without public transport<br />
for just 45Lt. The Vilnius City Card entitles holders<br />
to all sorts of deals including free museum entry<br />
and guided tours as well as discounts on a range of<br />
things including concerts, meals in restaurants and<br />
hotel bookings. Check the aforementioned website<br />
for more detailed information.<br />
photographer Antanas Sutkus (b. 1939). The museum is organised<br />
to highlight particular styles, eras and political attitudes to<br />
art in Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past century<br />
and also stages temporary exhibitions that are well worth visiting.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt.<br />
National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muziejus)<br />
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 26, www.lnm.lt.<br />
Lithuania’s oldest museum, parts of the collection inside this<br />
intriguing history lesson date back to the 13th century. On permanent<br />
display are religious and secular items highlighting the<br />
cultural and ethnographic life of the nation, including recreations<br />
of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more.<br />
Also to be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass<br />
grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also<br />
puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly outstanding.<br />
A vital key for unlocking the secrets of the Lithuanian people.<br />
Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (until April 30). Open<br />
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon (from May 1).<br />
Admission 5/2Lt. J<br />
Tuskulėnai Peace Park Memorial Complex<br />
(Tuskulėnų Rimties Parko Memorialinis Kompleksas)<br />
Žirmūnų 1f, tel. (+370) 5 275 07 04. Between<br />
1944 and 1947 over 700 Lithuanians, Poles and Jews were<br />
executed on this site by the forerunner to the KGB and buried<br />
in what was at the time State-owned property in the grounds<br />
of the 19th-century Tuskulėnų Dvaras manor house. <strong>In</strong> 1994<br />
the remains of the bodies were discovered and the area has<br />
since been turned into a memorial park. The park complex<br />
comprises the manor house, the former stable building next<br />
door that now houses an art gallery and the Secrets of<br />
Tuskulėnai Manor exhibition, dedicated to both the history<br />
of the estate and the crimes that took place there during<br />
the Soviet occupation. The jewel in the crown however is the<br />
columbarium (kolumbariumas), an extraordinary underground<br />
burial chamber that’s more of a mass a mausoleum and where<br />
the remains of the deceased are now kept. Tours in English<br />
are available, and calling in advance to make sure everything’s<br />
open is recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 -<br />
15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Exposition open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Also by appointment.<br />
August - November 2012<br />
57
58 what to see<br />
Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveikslų Galerija)<br />
C-3, Didžioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.lt.<br />
Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkevičiai (Chodkiewicz)<br />
family palace, this splendid little museum is of the type<br />
in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around<br />
from room to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and<br />
enjoy a great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture<br />
plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of exemplary furniture, all of<br />
it representing the last several hundred years of achievement.<br />
They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some<br />
are well worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J<br />
Churches<br />
Bernardine Church & Monastery (Bernardinų<br />
Bažnyčia ir Vienuolynas) D-3, Maironio 10, tel. (+370)<br />
5 260 92 92. Once forming part of the city’s original defensive<br />
walls and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church<br />
dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest of<br />
an order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church<br />
with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the early<br />
part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs on<br />
display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before<br />
the Soviet authorities took control of the building, handing it<br />
over to the Vilnius Art <strong>In</strong>stitute who among other things allegedly<br />
incorporated parts of the interior into the works of art the<br />
academy was producing. Returned to the monks soon after<br />
independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to<br />
this day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo<br />
altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dating<br />
from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery is the<br />
oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive<br />
library and independent-minded monks, the monastery was<br />
closed soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into<br />
a barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of the<br />
city’s Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now houses<br />
the Vilnius Art Academy. Q Mass Mon, Tue, Thu 07:30, Wed<br />
07:30, 18:00, Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00<br />
(English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J<br />
Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine (Šv. Konstantino<br />
ir Michailo Cerkvė) H-4, J. Basanavičiaus<br />
27, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 90. Built in 1913 at the very end<br />
of tsarist rule within the city as part of the 300th anniversary<br />
celebrations of the Romanov Dynasty, this rather absurdlooking<br />
Russian Orthodox church is famed hereabouts for its<br />
garish green domes. On closer inspection, the church, which<br />
supposedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and<br />
Suzdal styles, is a beautiful design, as early postcards showing<br />
the original dome designs attest. The interior is relatively plain,<br />
and only really recommended for serious enthusiasts.<br />
Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of<br />
God (Znamenskaya) G-3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370) 5<br />
275 13 75. Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful<br />
Neo-Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the best loved Russian<br />
Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons<br />
hanging inside are potted plants that make the place feel<br />
really alive. Next to the icons are special prayers for each<br />
saint, but as everything in the church is written in Old Church<br />
Slavonic you’ll need a translator to help work them out. The<br />
church was fully restored inside and out in 2009 Q Service<br />
Sat 16:00, Sun 09:00.<br />
Church of the Holy Cross (Šv. Kryžiaus Bažnyčia)<br />
B-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93 47. On the other<br />
side of the Presidential Palace from the University, this charming<br />
little church’s history dates back to 1543 and the building<br />
of a chapel on the site to commemorate the martyrdom of a<br />
group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over<br />
the centuries, including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the<br />
church is now more or less late Baroque in appearance with a<br />
few rococo flourishes, and is notable as being the only church<br />
in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being<br />
purpose-built. The small interior is well worth having a peep at<br />
if the main doors aren’t bolted as they usually are, the most<br />
outstanding feature being the painting, Holy Virgin Mother<br />
of Snow on the high altar, a copy of which can be found on<br />
the fresco over the main entrance. The small square in which<br />
the church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-era bust<br />
of Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius (1753-1798), Lithuania’s first<br />
serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary<br />
look of the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus<br />
among other buildings in the city. Q Mass 17:15, Sun 09:30,<br />
12:00.<br />
Church of the Holy Mother of God (Skaisčiausios<br />
Dievo Motinos Cerkvė) D-3, Maironio 14, tel. (+370)<br />
5 215 37 47. Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th<br />
century, this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions<br />
as the city’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such is<br />
often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius<br />
owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruction<br />
work completed in 1522. <strong>In</strong> 1808, soon after the start of<br />
tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius<br />
University who divided it into two floors, constructing a library,<br />
classrooms and dissection rooms for anatomy classes inside.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks<br />
before it took on several other uses before General Muravyov<br />
and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian appearance<br />
and used as a house of worship towards the end of the<br />
1860s. Q Service Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Church of the Holy Spirit (Šventosios Dvasios<br />
Bažnyčia) B-3, Dominikonų 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 95<br />
95. Like many of the city’s churches, the Dominican Church<br />
of the Holy Spirit was built on the site of a former wooden<br />
house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current building’s<br />
appearance started taking shape towards the end of the<br />
14th century. <strong>In</strong> 1501 it was given to an order of Dominican<br />
monks who built a monastery nearby. Its present Baroque<br />
appearance dates to the mid-18th century when the church<br />
was rebuilt after serious fire damage. <strong>In</strong>side is a wealth of<br />
Baroque and rococo splendour, well worth further investigation.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terestingly, the building, which functions as Vilnius’<br />
Polish Catholic community’s main church, remained opened<br />
throughout the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access<br />
to the church’s crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst<br />
some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from<br />
the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly<br />
victims of the plague. Q Mass only in Polish 15:00, 18:00,<br />
Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J<br />
Cathedral<br />
Cathedral-Basilica of<br />
St. Stanislaus & St.<br />
Ladislaus (Vilniaus<br />
Šv. Stanislovo ir Šv.<br />
Vladislovo Arkikatedra<br />
Bazilika) C-2,<br />
Katedros 1, tel. (+370)<br />
5 261 11 27. The most<br />
important Catholic building<br />
in Lithuania, Vilnius Cathedral as it’s more usually known<br />
was first built in 1251 by a newly converted Grand Duke<br />
Mindaugas on the site of a supposed pagan temple.<br />
Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas’ death in 1263,<br />
the church was given back to the Catholic Church on the<br />
country’s official conversion to Christianity in 1387, although<br />
the building that now stands in its place has little to<br />
do with the original structure. The current building dates to<br />
around 1419, with countless modifications and additions<br />
made after that. Its present Neo-Classical form is largely<br />
down to the work of the Lithuania’s first true architect,<br />
Laurynas Stuoka Gucevičius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz,<br />
1753-1798), who was also responsible for a number of<br />
other notable buildings in the city including the Town Hall.<br />
The rather plain nave betrays eleven chapels, among them<br />
the must-see High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-<br />
1484), Lithuania’s patron saint. Built in 1636 to house<br />
his remains, the chapel is one of the country’s national<br />
treasures. The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena<br />
and Casimir on the roof, supposedly representing Poland,<br />
Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century<br />
originals which were taken down and lost by the Soviets<br />
in 1950, the year the building was confiscated from the<br />
Catholics. Spending several years as an art gallery and<br />
even mooted as a car repair workshop at one time, the<br />
Cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church on October<br />
22, 1988 during the eventful Sąjūdis Congress and was<br />
re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The 57-metre freestanding<br />
bell tower, a popular contemporary meeting<br />
place, was originally part of one of the gates in the city’s<br />
defensive wall and has been added to several times over<br />
the centuries which gives it its peculiar shape. It received<br />
six new bells in 2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bačkis,<br />
the current Archbishop of Vilnius, in a special ceremony.<br />
Q Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00,<br />
11:15, 12:30, 17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
what to see<br />
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Evangelikų<br />
Liuteronų Bažnyčia) B-4, Vokiečių 20, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 21 25. Built in 1555, two years after the first<br />
German-speaking Lutheran community is said to have<br />
arrived in Vilnius, the crowning glory of this small Gothic<br />
and Baroque church on the street named after the city’s<br />
German community is the gorgeous rococo altar, dating<br />
from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz<br />
(Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767), a Lithuanian<br />
of German extraction and the city’s foremost architect<br />
at the time. Serving as a workshop and basketball court<br />
under the Communists, the building was returned to its<br />
congregation in 1991 and has since become the predominant<br />
house of worship for the capital’s multi-denomination,<br />
English-speaking Christians. Q Service Tue, Thu 08:00,<br />
Wed 18:00, Fri, 17:00, Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumenical<br />
Protestant), 11:00 (Lithuanian). J<br />
Franciscan Church (Pranciškonų Bažnyčia) B-4,<br />
Trakų 9-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 42. The Franciscan<br />
Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed<br />
Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to give it<br />
its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th century.<br />
Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling Gothic<br />
and Baroque magnificence, work continues both inside<br />
and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst the<br />
hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on the<br />
sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly moving<br />
forwards. At the time of our last visit, the Chapel of the<br />
Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the lady reputed<br />
to have miracle-working powers, was nearing completion,<br />
giving some indication of how things will eventually look.<br />
Q Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00<br />
(Lithuanian), 11:30 (Polish), 13:00 (Polish). J<br />
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate (Šv. Trejybės<br />
Cerkvė ir Bazilijonų Vartai) C-5, Aušros Vartų 7b, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 212 25 78. Consisting of a church, monastery,<br />
belfry and beautiful rococo gate, with the exception of the<br />
latter much of it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity<br />
Church originally dates from 1514 and features elements of<br />
Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the<br />
behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich<br />
Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogiškis, ca. 1460-1530), the<br />
church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire in<br />
the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates or<br />
Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses together<br />
many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as God’s<br />
representative on Earth. The church is a complete mess<br />
inside, almost completely empty with the exception of some<br />
wonderful, barely visible frescos both inside and out. There’s<br />
also a small chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation<br />
work is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761<br />
to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas<br />
Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767). Q Service only in Ukrainian Mon<br />
- Wed 06:30, Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00. J<br />
Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnickaya)<br />
C-3, Didžioji 2. Dating back to the middle of the 14th century<br />
and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a former<br />
pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat diminutive<br />
Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not only claim to have<br />
been the first church in Vilnius to be made of stone but is also<br />
the alleged location of the baptism in 1705 of none other than<br />
Hannibal, the African prince and great grandfather of Alexander<br />
Pushkin who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the<br />
part of Africa that’s now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the<br />
Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on several occasions<br />
due to fire, fell into disrepair around the time of the Third<br />
Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for seven decades before<br />
August - November 2012<br />
59
60 what to see<br />
being almost completely rebuilt in 1864 only to suffer major<br />
fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building<br />
closed in 1961, opening a year later as a museum of painting<br />
before being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991.<br />
Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services<br />
are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday. J<br />
Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Stačiatikių Šv.<br />
Dvasios Cerkvė) C-5, Aušros Vartų 10, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
77 65. Dating originally from the mid-16th century but predominantly<br />
now the combined work of the city’s most renowned and<br />
prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas<br />
Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years on the<br />
rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century<br />
Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is comprised<br />
of the church, a free-standing bell tower, monastery and convent<br />
although it’s the church interior that’s of most interest, being<br />
positively bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and<br />
rich blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the church’s<br />
crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as<br />
the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints<br />
Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose<br />
remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in black<br />
during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the exception of<br />
June 26 when they’re put on display entirely naked. Q Service<br />
08:00, 17:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. J<br />
Reformed Evangelical Church (Evangelikų<br />
Reformatų Bažnyčia) A-3, Pylimo 20, tel. (+370) 5 279<br />
10 52. The origin of the Protestant Church in Lithuania, whose<br />
three traditional strongholds still exist in Biržai, Kėdainiai and<br />
Vilnius, dates back to John Calvin’s lifetime in 1557, although<br />
this particular church, considered one of the finest examples of<br />
Neo-Classical architecture in the country, was built considerably<br />
later between 1830 and 1835. The work of one of the best<br />
local Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podčašinskis<br />
(Pol. Karol Podczaszyński, 1790-1860), the church was closed<br />
by the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact<br />
the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still in<br />
use. Q Service in Lithuanian Sun 11:00. J<br />
St. Anne’s Church (Šv. Onos Bažnyčia) D-3,<br />
Maironio 8. Unquestionably one of the city’s most famous<br />
landmarks and quite rightly so, the history of St. Anne’s starts<br />
with the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden<br />
house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the wife of Vytautas<br />
the Great. The first historical records of a church here<br />
date from 1394, although the current Gothic masterpiece is<br />
believed to have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a<br />
design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534),<br />
most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike<br />
other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Anne’s has managed<br />
to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is arguably<br />
the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different<br />
styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole,<br />
the effect is simply quite stunning. It’s been said the façade<br />
incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the country’s<br />
earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking<br />
at it. The interior is surprisingly free of ostentation, although<br />
this is hardly needed due to the spectacular design of the<br />
structure. The free-standing bell tower has nothing to do with<br />
the original design, being built only in 1873. A visiting Emperor<br />
Napoleon in 1812 famously if somewhat apocryphally noted<br />
he’d like to take the building back to Paris in the palm of his<br />
hand. Q Mass 18:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J<br />
St. Casimir’s Church (Šv. Kazimiero Bažnyčia)<br />
C-4, Didžioji 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 15. St. Casimir’s<br />
in many ways represents a microcosm of Lithuania itself.<br />
Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuania’s patron<br />
saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (1458-1484), construction<br />
on the mighty building began in 1604 and was completed<br />
in 1635. Burnt to the ground just 20 years later when the<br />
Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again<br />
within the next century in 1709 and 1749 before the architect,<br />
mathematician and astronomer Tomas Žebrauskas (Pol.<br />
Thomas Zubrówka, 1714-1758) restored it to more or less<br />
the form it’s seen in today. Over the centuries the church<br />
fell into the hands of the Augustinians, Napoleon’s Grande<br />
Armée, the Russian Orthodox Church (who significantly<br />
altered its appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the<br />
garrison church for the occupying German Army during WWI)<br />
and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place<br />
into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic<br />
Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and<br />
has since undergone a massive renovation project, restoring<br />
its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Renaissance<br />
touches. Of particular interest inside are three late Baroque<br />
altars and a recently discovered 17th-century crypt containing<br />
dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs.<br />
Q Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00 (Russian), 10:30, 12:00. J<br />
St. Nicholas’ Church (Šv. Mikalojaus Bažnyčia)<br />
B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 69. Predating<br />
the country’s conversion to Christianity by some seven<br />
decades, Vilnius’ oldest surviving church was built in 1320 by<br />
German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the first time<br />
in 1387, the impressive, classic red brick Gothic exterior<br />
remains pretty much as it looked the day it was finished with<br />
the interior having received numerous changes and additions<br />
over the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the<br />
Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the only<br />
church in the city open to the city’s small Lithuanian-speaking<br />
Catholic community. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun<br />
08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J<br />
St. Nicolas’ Church (Šv. Nikolajaus Cerkvė) C-4,<br />
Didžioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 85 59. The forerunner to<br />
this church supposedly dates back to the second decade<br />
of the 16th century, belonging from 1609 until 1827 to the<br />
Uniate Church. At some time during the 18th century the<br />
original church burnt down and was replaced soon after in the<br />
Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between<br />
the Russians and several other ethnic communities in the<br />
city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General<br />
Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church<br />
with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With<br />
its predominantly Catholic tower and typically Orthodox<br />
dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses<br />
of worship in the capital. Q Services Sat 09:00, 17:00,<br />
Sun 09:00. J<br />
Sts. Johns’ Church (Šv. Jonų Bažnyčia) C-3, Šv.<br />
Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55. Built at the same time<br />
as Lithuania’s conversion to Christianity in 1387, albeit with<br />
numerous radical alterations through the centuries, the<br />
vast and imposing Sts. Johns’ Church was given to the<br />
Jesuit Church in 1571 by Zygmunt II August (Žygimantas<br />
Augustas, 1520-1572). On the dissolution of the Jesuit<br />
Order in 1773, the church was handed over to the adjoining<br />
University. The present building, which contains elements<br />
of all of the major architectural styles associated with Old<br />
Town boasts an extraordinary and predominantly Gothic<br />
interior whose crowning glory is its organ of which parts<br />
date back to an organ that came from the Belarusian city of<br />
Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the largest in country and that<br />
received a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and<br />
2000, is used extensively in classical concerts the church<br />
is now famous for. Q Mass Tue - Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00,<br />
13:00. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Sts. Peter & Pauls’ Church (Šv. Apaštalų Petro ir<br />
Povilo Bažnyčia) J-3, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5 234<br />
02 29. Believed to have been built on the site of a site of<br />
worship to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking<br />
Late Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate<br />
victory over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac,<br />
the Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived<br />
to see its completion. Financed by two of Pac’s cousins and<br />
completed under several master craftsmen including the<br />
Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather<br />
plain façade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and<br />
Giovanni Maria Galli that’s quite simply out of this world. Containing<br />
over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing<br />
miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal<br />
magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing a wooden<br />
figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jėzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which<br />
features real human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the<br />
Latvian chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating<br />
from 1905. Q Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00, Sun<br />
07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 (Polish), 18:00.<br />
St. Theresa’s Church (Šv. Teresės Bažnyčia) C-5,<br />
Aušros Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Probably Vilnius’<br />
best surviving example of Early Baroque religious architecture,<br />
work on the first incarnation of St. Theresa’s was completed<br />
in around 1650. Built at the behest and expense of the then<br />
Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac), the<br />
straightforward idea behind its construction was to create<br />
the most beautiful church in the city, a fact that can clearly<br />
be seen by its elaborate façade, predominantly the work of<br />
the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647) who also<br />
worked on St. George’s Chapel inside the city’s Cathedral.<br />
The spectacular and predominantly rococo interior, much of<br />
it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds<br />
and pinks. J<br />
Places of interest<br />
Centre of Europe (Europos Centras) Lithuania has<br />
the proud and noble distinction along with at least six other<br />
places of being smack in the middle of Europe. The Lithuanian<br />
claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George Affholder of<br />
France’s <strong>In</strong>stitut Géographique National who announced that<br />
the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village of Purnuškės<br />
some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point, which can be<br />
reached by driving out of the city on the A14 in the direction<br />
of Molėtai and looking for the signs, has been commemorated<br />
with the construction of an expensive monument, a fact that<br />
may go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation<br />
placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius<br />
is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation.<br />
Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept<br />
and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair<br />
slightly ridiculous in the first place.<br />
Dawn Gate (Aušros Vartai) C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 212 35 13. Completed in 1522, the Dawn Gate (or<br />
Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama) as it’s known to the Poles) is the<br />
only remaining gate from the city’s original defensive walls.<br />
As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary<br />
was placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story<br />
of the Dawn Gate starts from this simple historic fact. The<br />
current image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother<br />
of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630<br />
by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver<br />
about 40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-built<br />
chapel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic<br />
healing powers. <strong>In</strong>terestingly, the Dawn Gate is revered by<br />
both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an important<br />
part of the city’s cultural heritage that it remained open<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
what to see<br />
Keturiasdešimt Totorių<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1397, Vytautas<br />
the Great,<br />
known as Vitaut<br />
(Вітаўт) to the<br />
Belarusians and<br />
Witold to th e<br />
Poles, famously<br />
settled a group<br />
of former Tatar<br />
p r i s o n e r s o f<br />
war and their<br />
families in the<br />
Grand Duchy of<br />
Lithuania in the<br />
then culturally<br />
and ethnically<br />
complex region<br />
around Vilnius,<br />
Richard Schofield<br />
or Vilna as it<br />
was called at the<br />
time. These Turkic newcomers, who became known as<br />
the Lipka Tatars (Lipka probably from the Crimean Tatar<br />
word for Lithuania), sprang up in several settlements in<br />
the area including today’s tiny village of Keturiasdešimt<br />
Totorių (Forty Tatars), one of the oldest Lipka Tatar<br />
settlements in the former Grand Duchy of Lithuania and<br />
just 20km south of Vilnius. The history and culture of the<br />
Lipka Tatars is a beguiling mix of influences embodying<br />
the religions of shamanism, Islam and Christianity and a<br />
language that evolved into a form of spoken Belarusian<br />
that was written in the Arabic script, a unique language<br />
that lasted well into the 1930s. Predominantly Islamic,<br />
the Lipka Tatars had an unusually liberal attitude towards<br />
women, with co-education being the norm, although this<br />
didn’t stop polygamy, a practice that allegedly bought<br />
about the name Keturiasdešimt Totorių with the no doubt<br />
apocryphal story of a local Lipka Tatar man who had four<br />
wives that each bore him 10 sons. Keturiasdešimt Totorių<br />
is a typical local anomaly, being both infamous although<br />
seldom visited, the latter perhaps for good reason as<br />
there’s little to see beyond the village’s wooden mosque,<br />
first mentioned in written sources in 1558 and rebuilt in<br />
1815 after Napoleon’s Grande Armée raised it to the<br />
ground during the ill-fated invasion of Russia two centuries<br />
ago. Despite the lack of local attractions, a short<br />
visit to Keturiasdešimt Totorių is highly recommended,<br />
not least for anyone with even a passing interest in the<br />
strange and illustrious history of the region. Now looking<br />
entirely out of place, the mosque is the Islamic version<br />
of the local Catholic wooden village church, simple in<br />
design and unfortunately seldom open to the public. The<br />
main attraction however is the surrounding cemetery<br />
complete with gravestones dating back hundreds of<br />
years and many carved with a star and the Moon at the<br />
top with Arabic inscriptions underneath. Getting to the<br />
village can be a bit of an adventure for those without<br />
access to a car or the strength to cycle there. The N°42<br />
bus service runs fairly regularly from the stop in the<br />
northwestern corner of the large square outside the<br />
train and bus stations, but only goes as far as the small<br />
town of Pagiriai, two kilometres short of the required<br />
destination. Alternatively, a local service runs from the<br />
bus station all the way to Keturiasdešimt Totorių several<br />
times a day, continuing the journey to Skarbutenai before<br />
turning round and coming back again. This gives visitors<br />
about 45 minutes to see the mosque.<br />
August - November 2012<br />
61
62 what to see<br />
Europos Parkas<br />
Europos Parkas (Open Air Museum of the<br />
Centre of Europe) Joneikiškės, 10km north<br />
of Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 237 70 77, www.europosparkas.lt.<br />
Founded in 1991 by the Lithuanian<br />
sculptor Gintaras Karosas, this wildly different and<br />
recommended countryside excursion brings together<br />
a number of names in local and international sculpture<br />
including Karosas himself, the Polish artist Magdalena<br />
Abakanowicz as well as Dennis Oppenheim and the late<br />
Sol Le-Witt from the United States to create a vision<br />
that in the words of the park’s founder ‘…give[s] an<br />
artistic significance to the geographic centre of the<br />
European continent…’. Featuring close on 100 works<br />
by artists from countries as diverse as Armenia, Japan<br />
and Venezuela, the park is spread out over 55 hectares<br />
of rolling hills and woodland and includes static and<br />
interactive art as well as the now infamous <strong>In</strong>fo Tree,<br />
Karosas’ crumbling shrine to propaganda made up<br />
of some 3,000 televisions with a prostrate Lenin at<br />
its centre. With the addition of a restaurant and gift<br />
shop, the park offers a splendid few hours away from<br />
the city for people of all ages. To get there by car,<br />
take Kalvarijų north to the Santariškės roundabout,<br />
turn right towards the Green Lakes (Žalieji Ežerai) and<br />
follow the signs. Buses leave from the Žalgirio stop on<br />
Kalvarijų, including a minibus to Skirgiškės which goes<br />
all the way to the park itself. Alternatively, bus N°36<br />
goes part of the way there but requires the last couple<br />
of kilometres to be made on foot. Q Open 10:00 - two<br />
hours before sunset. Admission 25/11Lt.<br />
Dennis Oppenheim. Drinking Structure with exposed<br />
Kidney Pool<br />
throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closely as people<br />
walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is open<br />
to the public and is accessed via a small door on the left as<br />
you’re walking up the hill. Q Mass 07:30 (Latin), 09:00, 10:00<br />
(Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun 09:00 (Polish), 09:30,<br />
11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30. J<br />
Green Bridge (Žaliasis Tiltas) H-3. A bridge of one<br />
description or another has stood on the spot of the Green<br />
Bridge since 1536. The current 103-metre metal construction<br />
dates from 1952 and was originally named after a Red Army<br />
general. The four groups of extraordinary sculptures at each<br />
corner represent agriculture (3.2m, sculptors B. Bučas and P.<br />
Vaivada), industry and construction (3.2m, sculptors N. Petrulis<br />
and B. Vyšniauskas), peace (4m, sculptor B. Pundzius) and that<br />
old Soviet chestnut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J. Mikėnas and J.<br />
Kėdainis). One of a few examples of blatantly Soviet art still in<br />
a public place, the Socialist Realist masterpieces have evaded<br />
removal on the grounds that they represent no real people living<br />
or dead. Criminally rusting and falling apart, something needs<br />
to be done to ensure that they stay around for many years to<br />
come. Meanwhile, underneath the bridge can be found Kunotas<br />
Vildžiūnas’ contemporary work Grandinė (Chain). Yawn.<br />
Hill of Three Crosses (Trijų Kryžių Kalnas) I-3.<br />
Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were<br />
crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin had<br />
the crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were they<br />
rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are a great<br />
symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An excellent<br />
view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot.<br />
Kenesa F-3, Liubarto 6. The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim are<br />
the smallest ethnic historical community in Vilnius, with just 150<br />
or so remaining members of a people who settled in the region in<br />
the 14th century. The Karaite, from whom they get their name, are<br />
a Jewish sect who can be traced back to Mesopotamia (modern<br />
day Iraq) who adhere to the Old Testament and the Decalogue,<br />
but don’t accept the Talmud. The Lithuanian Karaite were<br />
originally Tatars living on the Black Sea, almost certainly Muslim<br />
and who were converted to the Karaite faith in the 13th century.<br />
Enigmatic and as yet not properly understood, the Lithuanian<br />
Karaite, who number less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge<br />
of extinction. During the Soviet occupation, their Moorish-looking<br />
kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into a warehouse.<br />
Like the country’s other remaining kenesa in Trakai, the building<br />
is almost always locked.<br />
Literatų Gatvė C-2/3, Literatų. <strong>In</strong>spired by Aidas<br />
Marčėnas’s poem Literatų Gatvė about a wistful young man<br />
drinking and smoking with his friends on the street of the same<br />
name, the highly recommended permanent outdoor gallery on<br />
Literatų is dedicated to writers past and present who’ve all<br />
left their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media<br />
prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from<br />
Jonas Mekas to Czesław Miłosz to Romain Gary, the gallery,<br />
all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in<br />
2008 and now features over 100 superb pieces.<br />
M. K. Čiurlionis’ House (M. K. Čiurlionio Namai)<br />
C-4, Savičiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 51. Although more<br />
famous for his painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis<br />
(1875-1911) has quite a reputation as a composer. This is<br />
the house in which the great man lived for a short time in<br />
a small room that can be visited. The rest of the building,<br />
which during Čiurlionis’ time was both a family house and<br />
a shop, features reproductions of his paintings and a small<br />
concert space which stages musical productions almost<br />
every Wednesday evening. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. Admission free. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Presidential Palace (Prezidentūra) C-2, S. Daukanto<br />
Aikštė 3/8, www.president.lt. The official residence<br />
of the President of Lithuania, the Presidential Palace started<br />
life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure built<br />
at the behest of the city’s first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzębiec<br />
(?-1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later,<br />
the building remained the home of the cream of the city’s<br />
Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when it became<br />
the residential address of Vilnius’ tsarist governors. Many<br />
illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over the<br />
centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte<br />
and local boy, some-time dictator, military giant and<br />
Polish national hero Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) to name<br />
but a few. After independence in 1990 the building served<br />
several purposes until assuming its current role in 1997.<br />
The presidential flag can be seen flying over the building<br />
when the President is in residence or in the city. Changing<br />
of the Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. Q Free<br />
tours of the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays and<br />
Saturdays. Tours are limited to 25 people and are currently<br />
in Lithuanian only. For more information, see www.president.<br />
lt or call tel. (+370) 5 266 40 73. J<br />
Stebuklas C-2, Arkikatedros Square. About halfway<br />
between the Cathedral and the bell tower is the stebuklas,<br />
or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone believed to perform<br />
wonders and with the word stebuklas written on it, the site<br />
marks the spot where one end of the human chain of some<br />
two million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians<br />
stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on August<br />
23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on the miracle,<br />
turn a complete clockwise circle and make a wish. J<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
what to see<br />
Television Tower (Televizijos Bokštas) Sausio 13osios<br />
10, tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33, www.lrtc.net. The<br />
tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television Tower was<br />
built from reinforced concrete and steel between 1974 and<br />
1980 to a design by V. Obydovas and K. Balėnas. On January<br />
13, 1991 as the disintegration of the USSR reached a frenzied<br />
pace and Moscow attempted to retake control of the Lithuanian<br />
media, Soviet tanks surrounded it in an assault that<br />
killed 13 unarmed civilians. The tower has since become a<br />
potent Lithuanian symbol. Around it are a few monuments and<br />
photographs of those who lost their lives and whose names<br />
the nearby streets are now called in honour of. <strong>In</strong>side at<br />
ground level is the small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January<br />
13th Exhibition) commemorating the brutal events including<br />
a copy of the original Soviet military attack plan, weapons<br />
used to beat protesters and some disturbing photographs.<br />
The exhibition is free, although the 40-second ride in the lift<br />
to visit the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station<br />
isn’t. The ticket office also sells several Television Tower<br />
souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the<br />
region of 20Lt. Alternatively, take trolleybus Nº1, 3, 7 or 16<br />
to the Televizijos Bokštas stop. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Last<br />
entrance 21:00. Admission 21Lt.<br />
Town Hall (Rotušė) C-4, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 5 261<br />
80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. First mentioned in 1503,<br />
the Town Hall most likely dates from the 15th century, while<br />
the present Classical structure was built at the end of the<br />
18th century. <strong>In</strong> 1810 the governor general ordered that the<br />
Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave performances on and<br />
off until 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum.<br />
Until the reestablishment of independence it served as the<br />
Lithuanian Art Museum. Today it’s the Artists’ Palace where<br />
you can see gallery art. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. J<br />
August - November 2012<br />
63
64 what to see<br />
Trakai<br />
First mentioned in 1337 by the Teutonic Knights, and one<br />
of Lithuania’s former medieval capitals, despite being<br />
home to just 5,400 souls modern-day Trakai provides<br />
boundless cultural and pastoral experiences for scores<br />
of urbanites of both local and foreign persuasion, year<br />
round. Crowned by a magnificent Gothic castle (see<br />
below), Trakai is equally well known for its many inhabitants<br />
both past and present, among them Lithuanians,<br />
Jews, Poles (who still make up a small percentage of the<br />
population and who know the town as Troki), Russians,<br />
Tatars and the Lithuanian Karaite, an intriguing, Turkicspeaking<br />
offshoot of the larger Judaic Karaite movement<br />
who arrived in the town from the Crimea at the end of<br />
the 14th century and who are currently teetering on the<br />
border of extinction. Just 28km west of Vilnius, Trakai is<br />
both a tempting daytrip as well as a destination worthy<br />
of further attention thanks to it being located inside the<br />
country’s smallest national park. More like playing a giant<br />
game of snakes and ladders designed by MC Escher<br />
than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai History<br />
Museum is spread around the Castle and linked via a baffling<br />
array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and dark,<br />
plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections are<br />
to be found inside the western casemates (casements)<br />
and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting<br />
made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory<br />
walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collection<br />
of items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a huge<br />
collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the<br />
Lithuanian Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval<br />
gentlemen with enormous handlebar moustaches. Some<br />
explanations are in English, but much remains in Lithuanian,<br />
Russian and German only. More than worth it for<br />
a look around the Castle if nothing else.<br />
Castle & Trakai History Museum (Trakų Pilis<br />
ir Trakų Istorijos Muziejus) Tel. (+370) 5 285<br />
39 46, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00<br />
(until April 30). Closed Mon. Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from<br />
May 1). Admission 14/8/6Lt.<br />
Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas)<br />
C-2/3, Universiteto 3, tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.<br />
vu.lt. Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universities<br />
in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes<br />
up Vilnius University’s main campus buildings embraces<br />
just about every major architectural style of the last 400<br />
years. Originally belonging to the Catholic Church, the<br />
University became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and<br />
has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th<br />
and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past<br />
students who’ve studied here include the Polish Romantic<br />
poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, the Lithuanian<br />
author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him<br />
on any 100Lt note) and the Lithuania-born Polish Nobel<br />
Prize-winning author Czesław Miłosz. As well as housing<br />
the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also<br />
famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on<br />
your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12<br />
or 13. The University itself claims 13, although by rights<br />
the correct number should be 12 as one of them only<br />
has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during<br />
construction work on the neighbouring Presidential Palace.<br />
The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well<br />
worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto<br />
7 explaining where everything is. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Admission 5/1Lt. J<br />
Monuments<br />
Frank Zappa A-3, K. Kalinausko 1. Hot Rats! Deceased<br />
rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer, father of<br />
Moon Unit and all round creative genius Frank Vincent Zappa<br />
(1940-1993) has had his head immortalised in brass and<br />
stuck on a stainless steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just<br />
west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created<br />
by the late sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011) who<br />
once churned out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for<br />
the bureaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being<br />
the first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the<br />
world. If you’re now wondering what the connection between<br />
Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, don’t. There isn’t one. J<br />
Grand Duke Gediminas C-2, Arkikatedros Square.<br />
Unveiled in September 1996, the monument to Gediminas<br />
(Pol. Giedymin, 1275-1341), who famously founded Vilnius in<br />
1323 and who was also Grand Duke of Lithuania from 1316<br />
until his death, stands more or less on the spot where a howling<br />
iron wolf that inspired the moving of the country’s capital<br />
from Trakai allegedly appeared in his dream. Strangely, the<br />
aforementioned beast is represented in V. Kašuba’s creation<br />
not in metal as one would expect, but in stone. J<br />
Lazdynų Pelėda C-5, Karmelitų & Arklių. Lazdynų<br />
Pelėda (Hazelnut Owl) was the collective pen name of two<br />
sisters, Sofija Ivanauskaitė-Pšibiliauskienė (1867-1926) and<br />
Marija Ivanauskaitė-Lastauskienė (1872-1957). Born into a<br />
family of Polish-speaking nobility in the village of Paragiai in<br />
northeast Lithuania, their stories, often full of political observation,<br />
were written in Polish by Marija and then translated<br />
into Lithuanian by her sibling. The Egyptian style sculpture<br />
made in their likeness and unveiled in 1995 is officially known<br />
as Seserys (Sisters) and is the work of the sculptor Dalia<br />
Matulaitė and the architects Rimantas Buivydas and Juras<br />
Pankevičius. J<br />
Mindaugas C-1, Arsenalo 1. Taking pride of place outside<br />
the National Museum since July 6, 2003, the 750th anniversary<br />
of the crowning of the country’s one and only king in<br />
1253, Mindaugas (Pol. Mendog, 1200-1263), who’s generally<br />
considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
it of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal affairs<br />
and switching from paganism to Catholicism and back<br />
to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventually<br />
assassinated by his nephew and served as little more than<br />
a footnote in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by<br />
the national revival movement of the late 19th century. R.<br />
Midvikis’ granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his<br />
sostas (throne), from which the Lithuanian language gets<br />
its word for capital, sostinė, literally ‘the place where the<br />
throne is’. J<br />
Užupis Angel D-3, Užupio. After a long and singularly<br />
strange career as an oversized egg cup, the tall pillar in the<br />
heart of Vilnius’ breakaway republic Užupis (where every<br />
dog has the right to be a dog) finally gave birth to a long<br />
awaited angel on April 1, 2002, the official independence<br />
day of the wacky district. After a long and sometimes tedious<br />
unveiling ceremony, the covers were finally lifted, and<br />
in a big burst of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful<br />
figure of an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and<br />
generally being rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian<br />
sculptor R. Vilčiauskas, find it at the junction of Užupio and<br />
Malūnų. J<br />
Žemaitė A-1, Gedimino 27-29. Born into an impoverished<br />
Polish-speaking family with aristocratic roots and affectations,<br />
as a child the Lithuanian novelist Žemaitė (real name Julija<br />
Beniuševičiūtė-Žymantienė, 1845-1921) was forbidden to<br />
speak Lithuanian, at the time the language of the common<br />
people. <strong>In</strong>quisitive and defiant, the young Žemaitė made<br />
friends with local serfs and was soon fluent in her mother<br />
tongue, the language in which she was eventually to write in.<br />
Self taught and unusually political for a woman at the time,<br />
Žemaitė’s sombre tales concentrate on issues surrounding<br />
the miseries of peasant life and family squabbles, all written<br />
in the local vernacular. Her statue, the work of the sculptor<br />
Petras Aleksandravičius and architect brothers Algimantas<br />
and Vytautas Nasvytis, was unveiled, somewhat strangely,<br />
at the height of the Cold War in 1970.<br />
Parks & Gardens<br />
Although they like to flee en masse to the countryside during<br />
the warmer part of the year, the good people of Vilnius<br />
are also fond of spending time in the city’s many public<br />
green spaces. Regardless of the fact that there’s very<br />
little in the way of chaos to get away from, Vilnius’ parks<br />
and gardens can still provide a welcome relief from the<br />
immediate concerns of the 21st century. Here are some of<br />
the highlights.<br />
Kalnų Parkas D-1. Covering some 25 hectares immediately<br />
northeast of Old Town at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia,<br />
Kalnų Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular retreat for walks and, during<br />
the summer, concerts on the park’s Soviet-era outdoor stage.<br />
Also home to the Hill of Three Crosses (see Places of interest),<br />
the area the park now occupies is shrouded in a number of<br />
contentious mysteries. The so-called Gedimino Kapo Kalnas<br />
(Gediminas’ Grave Hill) for example, one of the park’s four hills<br />
and now a spiritual gathering ground for many followers of the<br />
country’s pagan Romuva organisation, is supposedly the site<br />
where the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Grand Duke<br />
Gediminas (ca. 1275-1341) is buried. No such evidence exists<br />
to support the claim however.<br />
Vingio Parkas F-4. Situated to the west of the city along<br />
the meandering Neris river, this wooded park covering 160<br />
hectares of pine woods was famed as far back as the 16th<br />
century. It’s believed that Alexander I was at a ball here when<br />
he received news of Napoleon’s invasion in 1812, an event<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
what to see<br />
mentioned in Tolstoy’s War and Peace. The park is more<br />
famous these days as the setting for rock concerts, firework<br />
displays, jogging and the launching of hot-air balloons during<br />
balmy summer evenings. Also within its confines are a botanical<br />
gardens and a fabulous little children’s zoo.<br />
Cemeteries<br />
Vilnius’ extraordinary cemeteries offer an often emotional<br />
and always interesting journey through the rich tapestry<br />
of races and cultures that built the city. For information on<br />
the city’s two Jewish cemeteries, see Jewish Vilnius.<br />
Antakalnis Cemetery (Antakalnio Kapinės) J/K-2,<br />
Karių Kapų 11. Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way<br />
back in 1809, the so-called Soldiers’ Cemetery (Karių Kapinės)<br />
can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple of<br />
kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers’ graveyard,<br />
distinguished by undulating rows of identical headstones, lies<br />
to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands a small collection of<br />
Tartar graves complete with Islamic symbols. To the left and<br />
deeper into the cemetery, large Soviet soldiers guard the (nolonger<br />
burning) eternal flame. To the soldiers’ right is the ghastly<br />
Soviet memorial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuania’s<br />
dignitaries. Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the<br />
‘red star’ graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian<br />
partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the border<br />
guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on July 31, 1991<br />
and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroopers during the January<br />
1991 demonstrations, all guarded by a stunning Pietà. Still<br />
in use, among the more notable recent additions are a large<br />
patch of grass surrounded by a tiny concrete wall and containing<br />
the remains of the Napoleonic soldiers discovered in the<br />
city in 2002, and the final resting place of the often overlooked<br />
Lithuanian composer Antanas Rekašius (1928-2003).<br />
August - November 2012<br />
65
66 what to see<br />
Sightseeing tours<br />
Astrida G-3, J. Tumo-Vaižganto 5, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 27 90, www.astrida.lt. Miscellaneous city<br />
tours and tours further afield in a range of languages<br />
including such rarities as Chinese, Japanese and<br />
Portuguese. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center<br />
C-4, Subačiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. Guided<br />
tours around the city, region and country. Must be booked<br />
in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Lithuanian Holidays H-1, Šeimyniškių 1a, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt.<br />
Jewish and other Vilnius tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Oreivystės Centras (Ballooning Centre) H-3,<br />
Upės 5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.ballooning.lt.<br />
As well as organising a wealth of balloon-related activities<br />
nationwide, these people also offer balloon trips over<br />
Vilnius and locations around the country. The trips are<br />
well priced and last on average about one hour.<br />
Vilnius City Tour C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370)<br />
699 540 64, www.vilniuscitytour.com. Tours of the<br />
historic centre in a number of languages. Also audio<br />
guides available. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30<br />
- 15:00. JA<br />
Bernardine Cemetery (Bernardinų Kapinės) J-4,<br />
Žvirgždyno 3. Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the<br />
cemetery is perhaps the most attractive and romantic<br />
cemetery in Vilnius. Located over a little less than four<br />
hectares on a rolling hill running down to the Vilnia river,<br />
the cemetery fell into disrepair soon after WWII before<br />
being finally shut in 1970. <strong>In</strong>dependence has seen it<br />
flourish with the assistance of the Lithuanian and Polish<br />
governments, although much work remains to be done.<br />
Of particular interest are the columbaria, once used for<br />
holding urns full of ashes and now slowly crumbling away.<br />
Among the eminent university professors, scientists and<br />
painters buried here find a few surprises including Geleda<br />
Dzerzhinskaja (1849-1896), whose claim to fame was giving<br />
birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Felix<br />
Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas Dzeržinskis).<br />
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar Cemetery (Karaimų ir<br />
Totorių Kapinės) Žirnių. Following the destruction in the<br />
mid-1960s of the original cemetery in Lukiškės, the former<br />
traditional home of the city’s Lithuanian Karaite and Tatar<br />
communities, a new cemetery was opened in a remote area<br />
in the southern part of Vilnius close to the airport. Among<br />
the graves, which are marked in an extraordinary mixture<br />
of Hebrew (Lithuanian Karaite) and Arabic (Tatar), is that of<br />
the Lithuanian Karaite scientist, historian and head of the<br />
Lithuanian and Polish Karaite communities Chadži Seraja<br />
Chan Šapšalas (Pol. Hadżi Seraja Chan Szapszał, 1873-<br />
1961). The cemetery is still in use, but is generally closed<br />
to visitors (although the fence surrounding it is hardly very<br />
high). According to tradition, women are forbidden from visiting.<br />
Find it on the stretch of Žirnių to the east of the road to<br />
the airport, before the ski slopes on the north side.<br />
Rasos Cemetery (Rasų Kapinės) I/J-5, Rasų/<br />
Sukilėlių. Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of<br />
many of the country’s social elite, this extraordinary cemetery<br />
stretched over a large area divided by a main road is<br />
still in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the<br />
cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the artist and<br />
composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875-1911), the<br />
author and publicist Jonas Basanavičius (1851-1927), whose<br />
grave is inscribed with a peculiar, 19th-century version of<br />
Lithuanian that predates its written standardisation, and the<br />
heart of Marshall Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935), the local-born<br />
Polish general who played a key role in re-establishing Polish<br />
independence in 1918 as well as the country’s subsequent<br />
annexation of Vilnius in 1920. Buried with his mother under<br />
a black granite slab and surrounded by the graves of Polish<br />
soldiers, the rest of him lies in Poland’s most sacred burial<br />
place under Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral.<br />
Vingio Parkas Soldiers Cemetery (VIlniaus<br />
Vingio Parko Karių Kapinės) F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio.<br />
A cemetery of one sort or another has been known to exist<br />
here since victims of the plague were buried on the site in<br />
1710. During the German occupation of Vilnius during WWI<br />
the cemetery was used for soldiers from the German, Turkish,<br />
Polish and Russian armies. <strong>In</strong> 1948 at the height of the<br />
destruction of the final resting places of many of the former<br />
inhabitants of the city, the Soviet authorities ripped up the<br />
gravestones and the site lay abandoned until 1980 when<br />
it was unceremoniously turned into a children’s playground<br />
and public toilet. Thanks to the efforts of the Germans,<br />
the 6.5 hectare site was renovated in 2001, with various<br />
markers and a large monument placed where specific<br />
burial sites were known to exist. At the eastern entrance<br />
of Vingio Parkas, the cemetery offers a poignant glimpse<br />
inside the former rich ethnic tapestry that once made up<br />
the population of the city.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
For a complete guide to Jewish Vilnius see the website at<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com.<br />
Jewish life<br />
Chabad Lubavitch Centre (Chabad Lubavitch<br />
Žydų Religinė Bendruomenė) H-5, Bokšto 19/12,<br />
tel. (+370) 615 838 44. This combined community<br />
centre and synagogue is engaged in numerous religious<br />
projects aimed at enlightening those who need enlightening<br />
and restoring the spirit and sensibilities of religious<br />
Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber<br />
Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in Lithuania over the<br />
last decade and a half, Chabad is especially known for its<br />
festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at which everybody<br />
is welcome. It also supplies visitors with kosher food and<br />
needed religious items and services. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Choral Synagogue (Choralinė Sinagoga) H-4,<br />
Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Built in a Moorish<br />
style in 1903, this is the only one out of over 100 prewar<br />
Jewish prayer houses that still functions. The term Choral<br />
Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a choir section, a feature<br />
considered by some a revolutionary form of modernisation<br />
and assimilation at the time it was built. Rabbi Chaim Burstein,<br />
who is here part of each month, officiates.<br />
Jewish Community of Lithuania (Lietuvos Žydų<br />
Bendruomenė) A-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30<br />
03, www.lzb.lt. This is the country’s primary address for<br />
its living Jewish people, providing a wide range of cultural,<br />
communal and social services from kindergarten through to<br />
senior level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich<br />
(Simonas Alperavičius), legendary for standing up for Jewish<br />
rights however and whenever the community comes under<br />
challenge. Along with the two functioning houses of worship,<br />
this is where you can meet the genuine Jewish locals. The<br />
building also houses a youth club, Jewish Student Union,<br />
Union of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp <strong>In</strong>mates and<br />
the Union of WWII Jewish Veterans. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Museums<br />
Holocaust Museum (Holokausto Muziejus) H-4,<br />
Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30. The smallest<br />
but most important and best known component of the<br />
three addresses that collectively comprise the city’s Vilna<br />
Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also known<br />
as the Green House) has been led for many years by the<br />
indomitable champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel<br />
Kostanian. One of its founders, Dr. Rachel Margolis, now<br />
in her late 80s, has been in the news for several years as<br />
one of the Jewish anti-Nazi partisan veterans wanted for<br />
questioning by Lithuanian prosecutors. Unable to return<br />
to Lithuania from Israel, her cause has been taken up by<br />
US congressmen, members of the British House of Lords<br />
and others internationally. The museum is famous for its<br />
unvarnished, accurate account of the Holocaust in Lithuania<br />
and the massive local involvement in the actual killing. Its<br />
modest, old-fashioned exhibits are far from high modern, but<br />
the heartfelt creation of local Holocaust survivors. Outside<br />
is a small monument to Japan’s pre-war Vice Consul to<br />
Lithuania, Chiune Sugihara, who issued thousands of visas<br />
against orders, saving many Jews from certain death. Find<br />
it at the top of a steep driveway and invisible to anyone<br />
simply walking along on the street below. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.<br />
Admission 5/2Lt.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Jewish vilnius<br />
Jewish tours<br />
Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew<br />
through the Baltics and Belarus.<br />
Yulik Gurvitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09<br />
Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85<br />
Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56<br />
Justina Petrauskaitė Tel. (+370) 699 540 64<br />
Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91.<br />
Statues & Memorials<br />
Jewish Cemetery (Žydų Kapinės) E-1, Sudervės<br />
Kelias 28. By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries<br />
were destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign<br />
diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as<br />
the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to<br />
the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually<br />
opened just before the war and nowadays, especially on<br />
Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves<br />
of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals. The<br />
Gaon’s grave attracts visitors from many countries who<br />
leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of<br />
the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery<br />
can be obtained if it’s open. Gravestones are covered in<br />
the writing of many languages including Yiddish, Lithuanian,<br />
Russian, Polish and English. To get there by public transport<br />
from the centre, take bus Nº73 from the Lukiškės stop or<br />
Nº43 from the station.<br />
Map of the Ghetto (Geto Žemėlapis) B-5,<br />
Rūdninkų 18. On the site of the former gate to the larger<br />
of Vilnius’ two ghettos, find a map showing the size and<br />
positioning of the area where the city’s Jewish population<br />
were kept before liquidation commenced. J<br />
Paneriai<br />
Paneriai Memorial Museum (Panerių Memorialinis<br />
Muziejus) Agrastų 17, tel. (+370) 680 812<br />
78. Between July 1941, and August 1944, approximately<br />
100,000 people of whom over half were Jewish were<br />
murdered at this site by the Nazis and a hotpotch of willing<br />
Lithuanians from such sinister organisations as the<br />
Ypatingasis Būrys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic<br />
but necessary part of any Jewish-related visit to Lithuania,<br />
find several monuments and the remains of the<br />
pits where the victims were burned. The typical Sovietera<br />
museum inside a small building on the murder site<br />
features exhibits explained in a baffling and irregular mix<br />
of languages including everything from stomach-churning<br />
photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job it<br />
was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold.<br />
Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the<br />
Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of Old<br />
Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get off at<br />
Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The site is<br />
at the very end of the road. To get there by car, drive out<br />
on Savanorių in the direction of Kaunas until you reach<br />
the E28 highway, peel off here and look for the pitifully few<br />
signs put up in order to help you get there. For a chilling,<br />
eye-witness account of the events that took place here,<br />
read Kazimierz Sakowicz’s extraordinary book Ponary<br />
Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale. Q Museum open<br />
09:00 - 17:00. Fri, Sat by appointment. Admission free.<br />
August - November 2012<br />
67
68 getting around<br />
Public transport<br />
Vilnius’ public transport system is made up of city and private<br />
buses, minibuses and trolleybuses, with most routes running<br />
from 05:00 until around 23:00. Single tickets for city buses<br />
and trolleybuses can be purchased from any Lietuvos Spauda<br />
kiosk or direct from the driver for a little extra. A single ticket<br />
is valid for any one journey of any distance over any period of<br />
time on any singular vehicle. With the exception of a coulple<br />
of new bus services, almost no public transport runs in<br />
Old Town. Travelling by public transport, especially during<br />
rush hour, is not for the faint hearted. Expect to be poked,<br />
squeezed and trod on. Pickpockets work several routes<br />
around the city. It’s also worth mentioning that if you’re travelling<br />
with a bag larger than 60cm x 40cm x 20cm you’re liable<br />
for a 20Lt fine if it doesn’t have a ticket. See the box at the<br />
bottom of this page for information on major changes to the<br />
ticket system from August 15.<br />
Buses Most buses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the<br />
city, with a few private buses offering a ride for the same price<br />
as a city bus if you bought your ticket from a kiosk (2Lt). For<br />
the uninitiated, recognising which is a private and which is a<br />
city bus isn’t easy. As a rule, city buses tend to be blue and<br />
yellow, but not always. Private buses are a little faster as they<br />
don’t always pull in at every stop along the route, although<br />
they should. Tickets for private buses are only available on<br />
board, and are sold by a conductor who makes a tour of the<br />
vehicle every few stops. If riding on a city bus, single tickets<br />
need to be validated in the appropriate device. Buy a ticket<br />
from the driver if you don’t already have one for 2.50Lt.<br />
Minibuses The minibus, or maršrutinis taksi to give it its correct<br />
name (you may also hear one referred to as a Latvija), is a<br />
privately-owned phenomenon as favoured in many former Soviet<br />
republics. Often but not always bright yellow, minibuses currently<br />
follow similar routes to buses and trolleybuses, are much faster,<br />
and accordingly cost a little more to use (currently 3Lt). They have<br />
no official stops, so in order to stop one you need to stand by the<br />
side of the road and get its attention by waving your arm. Likewise,<br />
you need to tell the driver when you want to get out again. When<br />
crowded, hand your payment via other passengers to the driver.<br />
At the time of going to press there’s a lot of talk about these<br />
routes being changed so they don’t clash with the city-owned<br />
buses. There’s also talk of stopping the services altogether. As<br />
usual, nobody knows what’s going on, although it’s interesting<br />
to note the city-owned bus company has just introduced their<br />
first two minibus routes in the city. Coincidence?<br />
Trolleybuses Many of them done up like a French tart’s<br />
boudoir, Vilnius’ upside-down railway keeps a large part of<br />
the city’s population on the move. Trolleybuses are often<br />
policed by the sort of sweet old ladies usually found staffing<br />
counters in English charity shops, although this lot are trained<br />
in the martial arts, and can effortlessly remove ticketless lit-<br />
Major ticket changes<br />
As of August 15, tickets for city-owned buses and trolleybuses<br />
will no longer be sold at kiosks. All paper tickets will<br />
need to be bought from the driver at a flat rate of 2.50Lt for<br />
any number of journeys within 30 minutes or 3.50Lt for any<br />
number of journeys within one hour. The changes are part<br />
of a major plan to encourage everyone to use a reusable<br />
electronic ticket, known as a Vilniečio Kortelė or e-bilietas<br />
and available from kiosks for 4Lt. These tickets should be<br />
topped up from kiosks and scanned on board all vehicles,<br />
for which the same amount as above will be deducted.<br />
Further information is available online at www.vilniusticket.<br />
lt, a website that is in Lithuanian only.<br />
Public transport tickets<br />
Bus Trolleybus Both<br />
Single ticket 2Lt* 2Lt* n/a<br />
Monthly pass Mon-Fri 75Lt 75Lt 100Lt<br />
Monthly pass Mon-Sun 85Lt 85Lt 110Lt<br />
Fine for no ticket 60-100Lt<br />
As well as single-journey tickets, tickets valid for 24 hours<br />
(13Lt), 72 hours (23Lt) and 240 hours (46Lt), that can be<br />
used on all city buses and trolleybuses, can be bought from<br />
the small kiosk just to the left of the (B-6) train station close<br />
to the trolleybus stop as well as inside the little (B-1) Klientų<br />
<strong>In</strong>formacinis Centras opposite the Novotel at Gedimino 9a.<br />
A more convenient ticket system for people staying in Vilnius<br />
for extended periods is the e-bilietas. Available for a onetime<br />
payment of 8Lt, e-bilietas ticket prices are the same<br />
as for ordinary tickets. Monthly tickets can be bought in any<br />
Lietuvos Spauda kiosk showing the e-bilietas logo. One-day,<br />
three-day and 10-day tickets can be bought from the small<br />
kiosk (above) or online at www.transportobilietai.lt, which<br />
was at the time of going to press sadly in Lithuanian only.<br />
* From kiosks. Tickets from the driver cost 2.50Lt.<br />
tle boys from vehicles by their ears. Ticket etiquette, should<br />
you prefer to buy one rather than pay a fine or argue with an<br />
elderly spinster, is the same as for city buses.<br />
Long-distance buses<br />
All long-distance national and international buses leave<br />
from Vilnius’ main bus station. Tickets for many journeys<br />
can be bought directly from the driver, although it’s worth<br />
getting one in advance at no extra cost. The ticket office<br />
for national bus services is located inside the waiting room.<br />
Budget travellers might be surprised to learn that bus travel<br />
in Lithuania is more expensive that using the train.<br />
Taxis<br />
Despite recent creeping taxi (taksi) prices, travelling by taxi<br />
in Vilnius remains relatively cheap, especially if you order<br />
one in advance by telephone. <strong>In</strong> an attempt to stem the<br />
flow of moonlighters, all taxis in Lithuania are now instantly<br />
recognisable by their compulsory yellow number plates,<br />
although this should in no way lure anyone into believing<br />
this has changed the free-market spirit of the average<br />
taksistas (taxi driver). Taxi drivers in Vilnius are no different<br />
to taxi drivers anywhere else, and will in general take any<br />
opportunity to relieve clients of more money than they need<br />
to. The standard rule is to make sure the meter is running<br />
and set to the correct tariff (generally 1 most of the time<br />
and 2 after midnight) before setting off. Arguments with<br />
taxi drivers are futile, and there are several stories floating<br />
around of drunken foreigners being assaulted when arguing<br />
about the fare. Finally, be extremely cautious of hotels<br />
who offer deals with individual taxi companies as they are<br />
usually set at extortionate rates. Prices listed below are for<br />
standard daytime journeys within the city limits.<br />
Company Tel. Rate/km*<br />
Ekipažas (+370) 5 239 55 39 2.20Lt<br />
Romerta Plius (+370) 5 278 88 88 2.29Lt<br />
Standart Taxi (+370) 5 240 00 04 2.30Lt<br />
Vilniaus Taksi (+370) 5 261 61 61 2.29Lt<br />
* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Bus Station (Autobusų Stotis) B-6, Sodų 22, tel.<br />
1661, www.toks.lt. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00, Fri 06:00 -<br />
19:30. JA<br />
Lux Express B-6, Sodų 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 233 66<br />
66, www.luxexpress.eu. Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama).<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. JA<br />
Trains<br />
Vilnius’ main train station (geležinkelio stotis) handles<br />
services to a number of destinations within Lithuania as well<br />
as international trains to Belarus, Poland, Russia and Ukraine.<br />
Most tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the right of<br />
the main entrance. Tickets for international trains can also be<br />
purchased from a small office inside and immediately to the<br />
left of the main entrance. The general rule is that tickets are<br />
stopped being sold 10 minutes before a train is due to depart.<br />
Train Station (Geležinkelio Stotis) B-6, Geležinkelio<br />
16, tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt. J<br />
Car rental<br />
Avis Laisvės 3, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 230 68 20,<br />
www.avis.lt. Mostl y<br />
cars under six months<br />
old, available with or without a driver. Also at Rodūnios<br />
Kelias 2 (Airport).QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun<br />
09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Budget Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230<br />
67 08, www.budget.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Rimas Tel. (+370) 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt.<br />
Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Sixt Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239<br />
56 36, www.sixt.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Airport transfer<br />
ViniusTransfer.com Laisvės 60, tel. (+370) 645 451<br />
24, booking@vilniustransfer.com, www.vilniustransfer.<br />
com. Specialists in minibus, bus and car rental with or without<br />
a driver in Lithuania and further afield, plus a wide range of<br />
transfer services including private transfers, large group<br />
transfers and airport taxis. QOpen 24hrs. A<br />
Parking<br />
Street parking in Vilnius is divided into four colour-coded<br />
zones, namely blue, red, yellow and green. Colour-coded<br />
parking meters eat coins and regurgitate a little printed<br />
ticket. Times when payments are required are marked on<br />
blue signs using Roman numerals to represent days, and<br />
numbers to represent times. A sign displaying I-V 8-22<br />
for example means you must pay to park on Monday (I)<br />
to Friday (V) from 08:00 to 22:00. Signs can be hidden<br />
or placed miles away from the parking space in question.<br />
Be careful. A pay-by-SMS system is also in operation,<br />
although in order to use it you must have a local SIM card.<br />
Buy a bar-coded windscreen sticker and register it in order<br />
to use this service if you’re planning on living in the city or<br />
staying for an extended period of time. Keep valuables<br />
hidden at all times, including radios if possible.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting around<br />
August - November 2012<br />
69
70 getting around<br />
Train schedule Airport<br />
From Vilnius To Vilnius<br />
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.<br />
04:50 06:47 IGNALINA 04:09 05:55<br />
08:31 10:23 IGNALINA 05:15 06:52<br />
11:22 13:15 IGNALINA 06:56 08:18<br />
15:00 16:48 IGNALINA 08:50 10:23<br />
16:431 18:34 IGNALINA 12:28 14:23<br />
18:24 20:08 IGNALINA 15:16 17:11<br />
19:32 20:54 IGNALINA 18:40 20:29<br />
20:49 22:25 IGNALINA 20:10 21:44<br />
04:385 12:01 KALININGRAD 09:558 15:26<br />
10:476 18:17 KALININGRAD 11:489 17:28<br />
13:127 20:23 KALININGRAD 16:3710 22:19<br />
04:251 05:31 KAUNAS 04:523 06:30<br />
04:54 06:37 KAUNAS 05:32 07:20<br />
06:20 07:35 KAUNAS 06:201 07:35<br />
07:27 08:45 KAUNAS 06:57 08:41<br />
08:42 10:26 KAUNAS 08:08 09:23<br />
10:25 11:38 KAUNAS 09:09 10:40<br />
11:15 12:29 KAUNAS 10:52 12:40<br />
11:40 13:23 KAUNAS 12:07 13:22<br />
13:50 15:05 KAUNAS 13:40 15:15<br />
14:45 16:30 KAUNAS 15:22 17:10<br />
16:30 17:34 KAUNAS 17:00 18:15<br />
16:36 18:19 KAUNAS 07:10 19:00<br />
17:27 18:35 KAUNAS 17:54 19:09<br />
17:47 19:16 KAUNAS 18:43 20:29<br />
18:30 20:14 KAUNAS 19:40 20:55<br />
19:40 20:56 KAUNAS 20:15 21:44<br />
20:402 22:11 KAUNAS 21:16 22:34<br />
06:45 11:12 KLAIPĖDA 06:50 11:34<br />
09:41 14:40 KLAIPĖDA 11:50 16:29<br />
17:40 22:17 KLAIPĖDA 17:05 21:54<br />
07:05 10:05 MINSK 05:42 11 10:30<br />
16:55 21:39 MINSK 23:5212 04:21<br />
17:45 9 22:02 MINSK<br />
22:3610 02:56 MINSK<br />
15:4313 11:09 ST. PETERSBURG 18:2214 12:55<br />
19:32 10:25 ST. PETERSBURG 19:40 08:18<br />
06:45 09:17 ŠIAULIAI 08:55 11:34<br />
09:41 12:18 ŠIAULIAI 13:51 16:29<br />
17:40 20:12 ŠIAULIAI 19:11 21:54<br />
04:07 04:49 TRAKAI 05:26 06:09<br />
05:12 05:52 TRAKAI 06:041 06:47<br />
06:05 06:42 TRAKAI 07:15 07:54<br />
07:41 08:21 TRAKAI 08:32 09:13<br />
10:314 11:08 TRAKAI 11:234 12:02<br />
12:30 13:06 TRAKAI 13:21 14:00<br />
13:29 14:05 TRAKAI 14:20 14:59<br />
15:35 16:11 TRAKAI 16:38 17:17<br />
18:15 18:52 TRAKAI 19:26 20:05<br />
20:20 21:04 TRAKAI 21:28 22:11<br />
1 2 3 4 - Mon- Fri, - Mon-Fri, Sun, - Mon- Sat, till 31 08 2012<br />
5 - till 01 09 2012. From 02 09 2012 odd days of the month.<br />
6 - till 01 09 2012. From 03 09 2012 even days of the month.<br />
7 - till 30 08 2012 and 01 09 2012 odd days of the month.<br />
From 02 09 2012 only Thu and Mon. 8 - till 31 08 2012 odd<br />
days of the month. From 01 09 2012 only Tue and Sat. 9 - till<br />
31 08 2012. From 01 09 2012 odd days of the month. 10 - till<br />
31 08 2012. From 02 09 2012 even days of the month. 11 -<br />
till 01 09 2012. From 03 09 2012 even days of the month.<br />
12 - till 01 09 2012. From 02 09 2012 odd days of the month.<br />
13 - till 31 08 2012 odd days of the month. From 01 09 2012<br />
only Tue and Sat. 14 - till 30 08 2012 even days of the month.<br />
From 02 09 2012 only Wed and Sun.<br />
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to<br />
change during the lifetime of this guide. More information<br />
at www.litrail.lt. Valid until November 30, 2012.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus<br />
Oro Uostas) Rodūnios Kelias 10a, tel. (+370) 5<br />
230 66 66, www.vno.lt. Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport, situated<br />
approximately 5km south of the city centre, is small<br />
and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and bar can be found<br />
above the main entrance for fond farewells and devilishly<br />
expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of Duty Free shops<br />
and cafés are located the other side of customs control.<br />
Free wireless internet is available throughout the airport.<br />
To get there by bus (see Public transport for information<br />
on tickets), take Nº2 from Lukiškių Aikštė or Nº1 from the<br />
train station, or use the shuttle train service that departs<br />
from the train station every 30 minutes between 06:30<br />
and 19:30. Buy a ticket on board for just 2Lt. A taxi from<br />
Old Town currently costs around 50Lt using a hotel-booked<br />
firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get<br />
a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company.<br />
By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5<br />
266 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make<br />
the trip for just 18Lt.<br />
Cycling<br />
Lithuania is as flat as a pancake, has relatively little<br />
traffic, a bracing coastline and lots of interesting places<br />
to see and explore making it an attractive destination for<br />
cyclists. Likewise, Vilnius is criss-crossed with cycle paths,<br />
is positively overflowing with parks and wherever you are<br />
in the city you’re never more than a brisk 15-minute pedal<br />
from the countryside. A well established, national nonprofit<br />
organisation exists to help cyclists in many ways.<br />
Baltic Cycle offers everything from maps, cycling tours<br />
and even bicycle rental where you can pick up a machine<br />
in one country and drop it off in another. Political cyclists<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational bus schedule<br />
Dep Arr Destination Dep Arr<br />
14:30 1 17:15 COLOGNE 10:15 2 14:50<br />
14:30 3 20:00 STUTTGART 08:00 4 14:50<br />
17:00 5 07:20 ROME 19:00 6 09:50<br />
14:30 7 05:45 LONDON 21:30 8 14:50<br />
06:30 10:50 RIGA 07:00 10:55<br />
12:30 17:00 RIGA 10:35 15:00<br />
16:10 20:25 RIGA 12:30 17:00<br />
18:30 22:25 RIGA 18:15 22:20<br />
10:00 14:30 RIGA 02:55 06:55<br />
14:15 18:15 RIGA 08:30 12:40<br />
22:30 02:30 RIGA 14:45 19:05<br />
07:00 11:25 RIGA 16:00 20:40<br />
16:10 00:50 TALLINN 06:00 15:00<br />
10:00 19:05 TALLINN 10:00 19:05<br />
22:30 06:55 TALLINN 22:30 06:55<br />
14:45 03:15 POzNAń 01:55 15:50<br />
22:30 10:40 POzNAń 18:30 08:45<br />
06:40 10:20 MINSK 14:20 18:00<br />
09:00 12:10 MINSK 16:05 19:45<br />
12:30 16:10 MINSK 19:00 22:30<br />
14:45 22:10 WARSAW 06:05 15:50<br />
22:30 05:40 WARSAW 23:05 08:45<br />
*only 01 06 - 31 08, 1 1 2* 3* 4 5* 6 -, 2 1 - 3* 4 5* 6 7,<br />
3 1 - - 4 - 6 7*, 4 1 2* - 4 - 6 -, 5 - - - 4* - 6 -, 6 1 - - - - 6* -,<br />
7 1 2* 3* 4 5* 6 -, 8 1* 2* 3 4* 5 6* 7<br />
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to<br />
change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all services<br />
listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
in Vilnius will be pleased to hear that the city now holds its<br />
very own Critical Mass (Kritinė Masė) on the last Friday of<br />
every month, weather permitting, starting from Cathedral<br />
Square at 18:00 sharp.<br />
VeloCity Tours & Rent C-5,<br />
Aušros Vartų 12, tel. (+370)<br />
674 121 23, info@velovilnius.lt,<br />
www.velo-city.lt. A local organisation<br />
that rents bicycles, organises<br />
city tours by bicycle, provides maps<br />
and information about cycling in<br />
the city, sells used bicycles, runs a<br />
self-repair workshop (15:00 - 19:00)<br />
and bicycle repair shop (both at Kauno 5) and organises free<br />
cycling events. Their free daily bicycle tour and the All Sides<br />
of Vilnius tour both begin at 11:00 at the bicycle rental point<br />
Aušros Vartų 12. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at Kauno 5.<br />
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Veloklinika.lt G-4, A. Domaševičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 606<br />
877 54, www.veloklinika.lt. Tucked away in a courtyard<br />
on the small street connecting Kudirkos with Pamėnkalnio,<br />
this highly recommended bicycle repair workshop is staffed<br />
mostly by young gentlemen listening to Bob Marley with the<br />
addition of one older fellow. All maintenance and repair work<br />
is undertaken, all of it to a high standard and for a good<br />
price. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by<br />
appointment only.<br />
Travel agencies<br />
Amber Tours H-4, Pamėnkalnio 34b, tel. (+370) 5<br />
275 69 85, www.ambertours.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Baltic Clipper G-3, Gedimino 64, tel. (+370) 5 231 23<br />
23, www.bc.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center C-4,<br />
Subačiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
BPC Travel H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 210<br />
25 90, www.bpctravel.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. A<br />
Kelionių Panorama I-3, Šeimyniškių 21, tel. (+370) 5<br />
261 87 26, www.kelioniupanorama.lt. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Krantas Travel A-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370) 5 231<br />
33 14, www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Flight schedule<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting around<br />
Local bus schedule<br />
DRUSKININKAI<br />
07:20, 08:40, 09:35, 10:00, 11:00, 12:10, 13:05, 14:20,<br />
15:40, 16:151 , 17:10, 17:551 , 18:20, 18:40, 20:30.<br />
KAUNAS<br />
05:40, 06:20, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15, 07:30, 07:40, 08:10,<br />
08:20, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 10:05, 10:30, 10:45,<br />
11:00, 11:30, 11:45, 12:10, 12:20, 12:35, 13:00, 13:30,<br />
14:00, 14:35, 15:00, 15:15, 15:30, 16:05, 16:25, 17:00,<br />
17:25, 18:00, 18:15, 18:40, 19:001 , 19:20, 19:45,<br />
21:10.<br />
KLAIPĖDA<br />
06:00, 06:35, 07:00, 07:50, 08:50, 11:35, 11:55, 13:20,<br />
14:50, 16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30.<br />
PALANGA<br />
06:50, 08:50, 11:00, 11:55, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30.<br />
TRAKAI<br />
07:10, 08:202 , 08:55 2 , 09:15, 09:30, 09:45, 10:40, 13:00,<br />
13:30, 14:00, 14:40, 15:20, 16:10, 16:40, 17:00, 17:45,<br />
18:10, 18:454 , 20:00.<br />
1 2 3 4 - Fri, Sun, - Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, - Sun, - Mon,<br />
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.<br />
Valid until November 30, 2012.<br />
Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to press<br />
and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. The<br />
website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for<br />
up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus in<br />
Lithuania.<br />
Lithuanian Tours I-2, Šeimyniškių 18, tel. (+370) 5 272<br />
41 54, www.lithuaniantours.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Fri 09:00 - 16:45. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Ryanair Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232<br />
93 77, www.ryanair.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
15:00 - 21:00.<br />
Senamiesčio Gidas C-5, Aušros Var tų 7, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com.<br />
Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00.<br />
JA<br />
The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind D-3, Užupio 23-9,<br />
tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00. JA<br />
Visit Lithuania B-2, L. Stuokos Gucevičiaus 1, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
From Vilnius To Vilnius<br />
Days Dep. Arrival Destination Days Dep. Arrival<br />
1 – – – 5 – – 19:30 21:55 till 26 10 BARCELONA till 26 10 (WZZ) 1 – – – 5 – – 22:30 02:55 (+1)*<br />
– – 3 – – – 7 21:30 00:05 (+1)* till 24 10 BARCELONA till 24 10 (RYR) – – 3 – – – 7 16:30 21:05<br />
– – 3 – – – 7 06:05 07:25 till 24 10 BERGEN till 24 10 (FLESLAND) (WZZ) – – 3 – – – 7 07:55 11:15<br />
– – 3 – – – – 10:00 10:50 15 08 - 24 10 BREMEN 15 08 - 24 10 (RYR) – – 3 – – – – 06:45 09:35<br />
– – – – 5 – – 10:50 11:40 17 08 - 26 10 BREMEN 17 08 - 26 10 (RYR) – – – – 5 – – 07:35 10:25<br />
1 – – – – – – 10:10 11:00 from 20 08 till 22 10 BREMEN 20 08 - 22 10 (RYR) 1 – – – – – – 06:55 09:45<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 15:40 BRUSSELS (BRU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 13:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:10 16:40 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 13:10 15:40<br />
– – – – – – 7 15:10 15:40 COPENHAGEN (SAS) – – – – – – 7 12:10 14:40<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:10 16:40 till 26 10 COPENHAGEN (SK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:55 23:25<br />
– – – – – 6 – 14:15 14:50 COPENHAGEN (SAS) – – – – – 6 – 11:10 13:40<br />
– – – – – – 7 15:10 15:40 till 21 10 COPENHAGEN till 21 10 (SK) – – – – – – 7 12:10 14:40<br />
August - November 2012<br />
71
72 getting around<br />
Flight schedule continued<br />
From Vilnius To Vilnius<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 12:40 13:15 20 08 - 26 10 20 08 - 26 10 COPENHAGEN (SK) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 09:35 12:05<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 17:45 19:10 till 02 10 till 26 10 CORK (WZZ) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 19:40 (+1)* 00:50<br />
– 2 – – – 6 – 17:45 19:10 06 10 - 27 10 06 10 - 27 10 CORK (WZZ) – 2 – – – 6 – 19:40 (+1)* 00:50<br />
– 2 – – – 6 – 19:05 19:55 DONCASTER (SHEFIELD) (WZZ) – 2 – – – 6 – 20:25 00:55 (+1)*<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 22:45 23:45 DUBLIN (RYR) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 17:20 22:20<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 23:50 01:10 (+1)* DUBLIN (EIN) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 18:00 23:05<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 06:40 08:00 EINDHOVEN (WZZ) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 14:00 17:10<br />
1 – – – – – – 05:50 07:05 till 22 10 till 21 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – – – – – – 7 10:55 14:00<br />
– 2 3 4 5 – – 06:00 07:15 till 26 10 till 26 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) 1 – 3 4 5 – – 10:50 13:55<br />
– – – – – 6 7 06:00 07:15 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – – – – – 6 – 10:50 13:55<br />
1 – 3 – 5 – – 14:40 15:55 till 26 10 till 23 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – 2 – – – – – 11:05 14:10<br />
– – – 4 – – 7 14:50 16:05 till 25 10 till 25 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – 2 3 4 – – – 22:20 23:25<br />
– – – – – 6 – 14:40 15:55 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – – – – – 6 – 20:20 23:25<br />
– 2 – – – – – 14:55 16:10 till 23 10 till 26 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) 1 – – – 5 – 7 20:30 23:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 11:45 12:55 till 26 10 till 26 10 HELSINKI (VANTAA) (FIN) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 09:45 11:00<br />
– 2 3 4 5 6 – 18:05 19:20 HELSINKI (VANTAA) (FIN) – 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:15 17:30a<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 10:10 11:25 KARLSRUHE (BADEN BADEN) (RYR) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 06:35 06:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 05:35 07:05 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 16:20<br />
– – – – – – 7 07:05 08:35 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:15 00:05 (+1)*<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:20 18:50 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW)<br />
1 – – – 5 – – 11:15 12:25 till 26 10 till 26 10 LIVERPOOL (WZZ) 1 – – – 5 – – 17:35 12:55<br />
1 – 3 4 5 6 7 06:10 07:00 LONDON (LUTON) (WZZ) 1 – 3 4 5 6 7 07:30 12:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:50 22:30 LONDON (STANSTED) (RYR) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:50 21:25<br />
– – 3 – 5 – – 10:30 12:05 05 09 - 26 10 05 09 - 26 10 MILAN (BERGAMO ORIO AL<br />
SERIO) (RYR)<br />
– – 3 – 5 – – 06:30 10:05<br />
1 – – – – – – 11:00 12:35 till 22 10 till 22 10 MILAN (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO) 1 – – – – – – 07:00 10:35<br />
(RYR)<br />
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 12:55 14:25 MILAN (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO) (RYR) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 14:55 18:20<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 05:40 08:05 MOSCOW till 30 08 (SHEREMETYEVO) (AFL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:40 22:15<br />
MOSCOW 31 08 - 09 09 (SHEREMETYEVO) (AFL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:30 23:05<br />
MOSCOW 10 09 - 26 10 (SHEREMETYEVO) (AFL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:40 22:15<br />
1 – – – – – 7 13:30 16:10 till 22 10 MOSCOW till 22 10 (DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) 1 – – – – – 7 12:05 12:40<br />
– – – 4 – – – 18:30 21:10 till 25 10 MOSCOW till 25 10 (DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) – – – 4 – – – 16:55 17:40<br />
– – – – – 6 – 10:20 13:00 MOSCOW (DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) – – – – – 6 – 08:50 09:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 09:00 MOSCOW (VNUKOVO) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:50 22:00<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 17:55 MOSCOW (VNUKOVO) (UTA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:40 12:40<br />
– – 3 – – – 7 12:55 13:50 till 24 10 OSLO till 24 10 (SANDEJFORD) (WZZ) – – 3 – – – 7 14:20 17:15<br />
1 – – – 5 – – 12:55 14:40 till 26 10 PARIS till 26 10 (BEAUVAIS–TILLE) (WZZ) 1 – – – 5 – – 15:10 18:55<br />
1 – – – 5 – – 13:10 14:50 till 26 10 PARIS till 26 10 (BEAUVAIS–TILLE) (RYR) 1 – – – 5 – – 09:00 12:45<br />
– – 3 – – – – 18:45 20:25 till 24 10 PARIS till 24 10 (BEAUVAIS–TILLE) (RYR) – – 3 – – – – 14:35 18:20<br />
– 2 – 4 – – – 15:00 15:40 till 25 10 PRAGUE till 25 10 (RUZYNE) (CSA) – 2 – 4 – – – 11:35 14:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 04:55 05:50 till 26 10 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:45 07:40<br />
– – – – – 6 – 05:05 06:00 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:40 11:35<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:30 09:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:20 14:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:05 11:00 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:35 19:30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:00 12:55 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:35 00:40 (+1)*<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 16:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:45 00:40 (+1)*<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:05 21:00 RIGA (BT)<br />
– – – – – 6 – 14:20 16:15 ROME (CIAMPINO) (RYR) – – – – – 6 – 10:00 13:55<br />
– 2 – 4 – – – 14:40 16:32 till 25 10 ROME till 25 10 (CIAMPINO) (RYR) – 2 – 4 – – – 10:20 14:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:00 07:00 TALLINN (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 07:35 09:00<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 09:25 10:55 TALLINN till 26 10 (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 14:00 15:05<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:00 17:00 till 26 10 TALLINN till 26 10 (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:50 21:15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 21:40 23:10 till 26 10 TALLINN till 26 10 (ULEMISTE) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 23:50 00:50 (+1)*<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:40 14:30 VIENNA (AUA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 12:55<br />
1 2 – 4 5 6 – 06:25 06:30 20 09 - 27 10 WARSAW (LOT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:45 14:10<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 15:15 WARSAW (LOT) – 2 – – 5 6 – 22:35 00:40 (+1)*<br />
Valid until 27 10 2012. *+ 1 arrival next day<br />
Airline codes: WZZ - Wizz Air, SK - Scandinavian Airlines, BT - Air Baltic, SNBA - Brussels Airlines, DLH - Lufthansa,<br />
AEW - Aerosvit Airlines, AFL - Aeroflot, UTA - Utair Aviation, TSO - Transaero, LOT - Polish Airlines, CSA - Czech<br />
Airlines, ELL - Estonian Air, RYR - Ryanair, AUA - Austrian Airlines, FIN - Finnair, EIN – Aerlingus.<br />
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. Airport information is on<br />
p. 70.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Post<br />
Central Post Office (Centrinis Paštas) B-1, Gedimino<br />
7, tel. (+370) 700 554 00, www.post.lt. The<br />
glorious 1969 Soviet design inside the city’s main post office<br />
betrays a recently improved service that’s finally catching up<br />
with the 21st century. A ticket machine has been installed with<br />
instructions in English, making a visit finally something to look<br />
forward to rather than the nightmare it was in the past. Selecting<br />
a ticket in English should send you to a window where<br />
somebody speaks it. Note the extraordinary calendar on the<br />
wall on the right at the back that needs changing by hand<br />
daily. Late night post offices operate in two of the city’s large<br />
shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00 - 22:00,<br />
and Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), open 10:00 - 22:00. QOpen<br />
07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Laptop login<br />
Wireless W If you’re wireless enabled, you’re ready to go<br />
online. There are many cafés, restaurants, hotels and public<br />
spaces in Vilnius that are a part of a network of paid wireless<br />
internet hotspots. Notable locations include the whole of<br />
Pilies and Gedimino, the city’s tourist information centres and<br />
the airport, of which the latter also has a few areas where<br />
you can connect for free. To use these hotspots, just turn<br />
your wireless on and choose the Zebra network. When you<br />
open your web browser you’ll see a page with instructions<br />
and prices. You can pay via SMS if you’ve got a local SIM<br />
card. Be warned, however, that the Zebra network is neither<br />
cheap nor particularly reliable. Several cafés and hotel lobbies<br />
around town provide free wireless access.<br />
3G Both Bitė (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel (www.omnitel.lt)<br />
provide 3G services for laptop connection to the internet<br />
allegedly wherever you are within Lithuania. What you actually<br />
get is far from perfect, but if you’re prepared for slightly<br />
slower speeds than broadband, your connection dropping<br />
out a few times a day and incompatible software that could<br />
conflict with your operating system then one of these<br />
services might be just for you. With the added convenience<br />
of GPRS backup for obscure locations, both companies<br />
offer a range of prepaid and contract options.<br />
Dialup Assuming you’ve got an RJ-11 plug on the end of<br />
your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you probably<br />
don’t), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option is available for<br />
those who can’t find any other connection. Simply dial tel.<br />
890 15 55 55 from anywhere in the country using your dialup<br />
software of choice leaving the username and password<br />
blank and away you go. Calls are charged at a standard<br />
0.12Lt/min at all times from a private line (this figure may<br />
well be a lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged<br />
directly to whoever’s telephone account you’re using.<br />
Prepaid SIM cards<br />
Card Price<br />
(Lt)<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Local<br />
(Lt/min)<br />
London<br />
(Lt/min)<br />
Top-up<br />
(Lt)<br />
Mail & Phones<br />
Emergency numbers<br />
Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112<br />
Postal rates<br />
Lithuania EU Outside EU<br />
Letter (44g) 1.65Lt 2.95Lt 3.35Lt<br />
Postcard (20g) 1.55Lt 2.45Lt 2.90Lt<br />
CD (130g) 2.50Lt 5.90Lt 11.75Lt<br />
Express mail rates<br />
Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a<br />
maximum of 500g.<br />
London Paris New York<br />
DHL 170Lt 170Lt 240Lt<br />
EMS 215Lt 213Lt 210Lt<br />
TNT 163Lt 181Lt 265Lt<br />
UPS 174Lt 192Lt 279Lt<br />
Mobile phones<br />
Bitė G-5, Žemaitės 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www.<br />
bite.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Omnitel B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. 1533, www.omnitel.lt.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TELE2 G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 601 102 00,<br />
www.tele2.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet cafés<br />
Taškas G-4, J. Jasinskio 1/8 (entrance from V. Kudirkos,<br />
2nd floor), tel. (+370) 685 240 24. Reasonably central,<br />
climb the flight of stairs and fight with the teenagers for a<br />
battered albeit perfectly decent PC. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Express mail<br />
DHL Dariaus ir Girėno 81, tel. (+370) 5 236 07 00, www.<br />
dhl.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
EMS Rodūnios Kelias 9, tel. (+370) 5 239 83 28,<br />
www.post.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. 1<br />
TNT Dariaus ir Girėno 44, tel. (8-800) 252 22, specialservices.vno@tnt.com,<br />
www.tnt.lt. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
UPS E-5, Eigulių 15, tel. (+370) 5 247 22 22, www.skubiossiuntos.lt.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
SMS<br />
(Lt)<br />
Voicemail<br />
(Lt/call)<br />
Bitė (Labas) 6 0.49 1.99 5/10/20/40/99 0.11 0.10 99%<br />
Omnitel (Ežys) 5 0.46 2.03 From 5 0.10 Free 99%<br />
TELE2 (Pildyk) 4.50 0.48 1.85 5/7/10/15/20/35/50 0.10 0.15 96%<br />
Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.<br />
Coverage<br />
August - November 2012<br />
73
74 shoPPing<br />
Unless you’re Latvian or Polish, you probably didn’t come<br />
to Vilnius to shop. However, shopping is fun, and, in the<br />
case of certain products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, cigarettes<br />
and amber) a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the<br />
West. The main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided<br />
neatly into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber,<br />
books old and new and some nice pieces of art) and parts<br />
of the city’s classiest street, Gedimino (designer clothes,<br />
mobile phones and more books). The city’s markets are<br />
also well worth a visit for an authentic, blast to the past<br />
experience if nothing else, as indeed are the increasing<br />
number of large shopping centres around the edge of the<br />
city, where among other things you’ll find all the clothing<br />
and footwear shops we’ve chosen not to list here.<br />
Shopping centres<br />
Akropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. A<br />
huge place full of shops and the flocks that visit them. <strong>In</strong> case<br />
shopping isn’t your thing, you can try ice-skating, bowling, or see<br />
a film. There’s also a good range of restaurants and a constant<br />
cacophonous argument between the cheap car alarms in the<br />
enormous car park. Not very central, find it about 3km north of<br />
the action. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULXW<br />
Europa H-3, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 616 956 80,<br />
www.pceuropa.lt. <strong>In</strong> the heart of the business district just<br />
north of the river, find three floors of mostly clothes shops<br />
plus a couple of restaurants and a handful of little pods for<br />
drinking coffee in. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
PTALW<br />
Gedimino 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 262 98 12,<br />
www.gedimino9.lt. Located inside a grand 19th-century<br />
building in the heart of the city, this bustling shopping centre<br />
includes a wide range of retail outlets selling everything from<br />
fashion to fish, some great antique stalls, restaurants and<br />
cafés, a gallery and even a place for small business start-ups.<br />
Best of all are the highly recommended Studio 9 restaurant<br />
and the free wireless internet throughout.QOpen 10:00 -<br />
20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAW<br />
IKI Commercial Centre I-2, Žirmūnų 2, tel. (+370) 5<br />
272 19 68, www.iki.lt. This three-floor shopping centre<br />
features a large Iki supermarket at ground level, a handful of<br />
average shops downstairs and up the escalators some fashion<br />
outlets, a shoe shop, a Čili Kaimas restaurant and, at the time<br />
of going to press, a small kiosk selling ready-made sushi. Also<br />
at J. Jasinkio 16. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAUL<br />
Ozas H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 50, www.ozas.lt.<br />
Opened in August 2009, the large Ozas shopping centre offers<br />
more gargantuan shopping and restaurant services to the city.<br />
Find inside a veritable cavalcade of shops selling everything<br />
from designer clothes to food. The large Prisma supermarket<br />
stocks one of the most extensive ranges of alcohol in Vilnius.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULXW<br />
Panorama G/F-2, Saltoniškių 9, tel. (+370) 5 219<br />
58 11, www.panorama.lt. Loads of retail outlets, entertainment<br />
centres and restaurants close to the centre in<br />
Žvėrynas. Many high street names, a top floor of restaurants,<br />
the country’s first electric go-carting centre and smoking<br />
rooms next to the public toilets. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
PTAULXW<br />
Rimi Hypermarket G-4, Savanorių 16, tel. (+370)<br />
5 246 12 00, www.rimi.lt. Not quite everything under<br />
one roof (they don’t sell roofs for example), but not far<br />
off it. A huge heated expanse offering electrical goods,<br />
clothes, books, tools, toys and household essentials as<br />
well as a fairly extensive collection of local and imported<br />
foodstuffs. Also a few other shops inside the same building.<br />
Also at Žirmūnų 64, Ateities 91. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
AL<br />
VCUP H-3, Konstitucijos 16, tel. (+370) 5 273 15 15,<br />
www.vcup.lt. Once colossal, this former flagship Soviet<br />
shopping sensation looks more like a corner shop than an<br />
experience these days. Limited retail and dining just north of<br />
the river. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULW<br />
Markets<br />
Shopping in a Lithuanian market (turgus), although<br />
perhaps not for the faint hearted, is an experience to<br />
be savoured if at all possible when visiting the country.<br />
Remember that many things can be haggled down in<br />
price, and please watch your wallets, especially during the<br />
weekends.<br />
Akropolio Blusų Turgus G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.<br />
akropolis.lt. Catching on to the latest craze to sweep the<br />
nation, this weekly flea market outside the vast Akropolis<br />
shopping centre features a fairly decent selection of stalls<br />
selling everything from old paintings to Soviet memorabilia.<br />
QOpen Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri,<br />
Sat.<br />
Collectors’ Club (Kolekcininkų Klubas) G-4, V.<br />
M. Putino 5. What started out as a small gathering of<br />
like-minded aficionados trading miscellaneous antiquities<br />
in exchange for a bit of pocket money has slowly evolved<br />
into a serious weekly event. Stretched out round two full<br />
sides of the Trade Union Palace as well as inside, items<br />
up for grabs include everything from Czechoslovakian<br />
clarinets to furniture to WWII-era Nazi propaganda posters<br />
in Lithuanian. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
The biggest shopping<br />
centre in Baltics!<br />
AKROPOLIS offers You the best shopping experience in Vilnius: over 240 stores<br />
with world known brands, 14 restaurants, a cinema, an ice rink, a bowling alley<br />
and a children´s playground. Open daily 10:00 – 22:00.<br />
Tax free service at most of the shops.<br />
<strong>VILNIUS</strong><br />
OZO STR. 25, WWW.AKROPOLIS.LT
76 shoPPing<br />
Halės Market (Halės Turgus) C-5, Pylimo 58/1, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 262 55 36, www.halesturgaviete.lt. The modern,<br />
glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing that went<br />
out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and raw meat at the<br />
back is perhaps best worth avoiding, whereas the beautifully<br />
restored brick building dating from 1900 to the right is more<br />
than worth a look inside. A trip through the doors rewards<br />
visitors with a nasal blast of several tonnes of smoked meat,<br />
which can be bought in here along with a few other specialities<br />
including fresh fruit and vegetables plus a nice range of locallyproduced<br />
honey you can taste before you purchase. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 17:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Kalvarijų Market (Kalvarijų Turgus) H-2, Kalvarijų<br />
61, tel. (+370) 696 357 18. Featuring everything from old<br />
ladies selling garlic bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional<br />
bargain goat (cash only), one of the city’s most endangered<br />
species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a<br />
taste of what the rest of the country’s really like. One of the<br />
best places in town for meat, locally-produced honey and<br />
cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also find tropical fish,<br />
manbags, Minsk bicycles and cheap cigarettes from the<br />
Roma girls near the main entrance. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon.<br />
Sostinės Turgus H-2, Kalvarijų 88, tel. (+370) 613<br />
252 50. Opened towards the end of 2010, presumably as<br />
a way of threatening the nearby and highly recommended<br />
Kalvarijų Market who many in power would like to see closed,<br />
this dreadful indoor market would be an embarrassment in a<br />
poverty-stricken Siberian village. Totally low budget, expect<br />
a hopeless selection of awful clothing and not a lot more.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Souvenir Market (Suvenyrų Turgus) C-2/3, Pilies<br />
23. The only market we list aimed exclusively at foreigners’<br />
wallets is a predominantly lacklustre hotchpotch of stalls<br />
selling amber, linen, wood carvings, hand-knitted socks,<br />
Soviet-era bits and pieces and a few paintings. Some pieces<br />
are really nice, but most of the stuff here is very average.<br />
Every tourist destination has one. This is Vilnius’. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Tymo Turgus D-4, Aukštaičių/Maironio, tel. (+370)<br />
612 289 26. Labouring under the unofficial moniker The<br />
Little Good Food & Culture Festival, this once-a-week jaunt<br />
into the world of possible alternatives churns out all manner<br />
of environmentally friendly food from local farmers and well as<br />
soaps, cosmetics and the like. Politically edgy in the fluffiest<br />
sense, the market also hosts a regular event where people<br />
can vent their spleens a la Hyde Park Corner, plus there’s a<br />
place to go for free second-hand clothing and the occasional<br />
musical performance. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.<br />
Verslo Parkas Gariūnai 4km from Vilnius just off the<br />
Kaunas highway, www.gariunai.lt. Covering a vast area of<br />
120 hectares (there are some who say it’s the largest outdoor<br />
market in Europe) and attracting an average 50,000 shoppers<br />
every day, Gariūnai sells cars on one side of the road plus all<br />
manner of cheap consumer goods of dubious quality on a truly<br />
expansive scale on the other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs<br />
around 30Lt to get there from the city centre. Alternatively,<br />
look for the minibuses around the train and bus stations with<br />
Gariūnai signs on the front. QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu<br />
04:00 - 14:00, Sat 05:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Amber<br />
According to local legend, amber (gintaras) originates<br />
from the tears of the sea goddess Jūratė and the stones<br />
from her castle, which was destroyed by Perkūnas, the<br />
pagan god of thunder, when he discovered her passionate<br />
love affair with the mortal fisherman Kastytis. Scientists,<br />
not generally being of the pagan faith, think different.<br />
Some 40 million years ago or thereabouts the earth got<br />
warmer, causing an increase in the secretion of resin in<br />
the pine forests in the region. The streams of resin swept<br />
down rivers and into the Baltic Sea, sometimes sweeping<br />
up a stray bug along the way. It’s this fossilised resin that<br />
now sits in deltaic deposits off the coasts of Kaliningrad,<br />
Lithuania, Poland and Sweden. Ask most people and<br />
they’ll tell you amber is a dark honey colour. However, visit<br />
anywhere selling the stuff and you’ll soon see it comes<br />
in such diverse colours as blue, black, white and yellow.<br />
White amber is called royal amber and is widely available<br />
in Lithuania. Blue and black amber are more rare here.<br />
Amber C-5, Aušros Vartų 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 88,<br />
www.ambergift.lt. An astounding Aladdin’s cave of amber.<br />
The walls and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of the<br />
stuff while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures<br />
and more. Worth visiting even if you’re not interested in<br />
shopping. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00 (until Sept 30). Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sun (from Oct 1). JA<br />
Amber Museum-Gallery C-3, Šv. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370)<br />
5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. A great little place<br />
apt at displaying amber at its best. The knowledgeable and<br />
friendly staff speak English, and can waffle on for hours about<br />
the stuff if you want to know all about it. Also at Šv. Mykolo<br />
12. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA<br />
Beata Amber C-3/4, Stiklių 9/10, tel. (+370) 5 234 46<br />
85, www.beataamber.lt. As much a wholesaler as retailer,<br />
you can pick up amber at a variety of stages of production<br />
here. There are hunks of raw amber, various polished beads<br />
and blobs that you can use to make your own jewellery and<br />
fine finished creations. Also at M. K. Čiurlionio 84 (Crowne Plaza<br />
Vilnius), Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva). Q Open<br />
10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Antiques<br />
Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old,<br />
some degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be<br />
required to get antiques out of the country. A reputable<br />
antiques salesperson will assist you with this. If they can’t,<br />
you might like to think again about making the purchase.<br />
e.k.art C-4, Didžioji 27, tel. (+370) 605 222 22, info@<br />
ek-art.lt, www.ek-art.lt. An incredible collection of paintings,<br />
furniture, religious objects and other works of art from<br />
Lithuania, Russia, Germany and beyond established over two<br />
decades ago and one of the most reliable places in town to<br />
buy antiques. An excellent place to know about for all serious<br />
collectors, the shop now also stocks a range of antique<br />
Persian carpets. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Fabra Ars C-4, Didžioji 20, tel. (+370) 652 815 58. Classic<br />
and original artworks, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries.<br />
Mostly of interest to collectors and dealers. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Senasis Kuparas B-3, Dominikonų 14, tel. (+370) 5<br />
262 10 24. An excellent shop full of beautiful and highly<br />
sought-after pieces adjoining a shop selling some quite exquisite<br />
glassware. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun. JA<br />
Vilnius Antiques Centre C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 262 74 79, www.antiques.lt. A wide selection<br />
of paintings, icons, furniture, silverwear and other curiosities.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
shoPPing<br />
Books etc.<br />
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition<br />
to the following bookshops, reading matter can be found<br />
at various libraries listed in our Directory. <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
press is best found in the city’s better hotels, of which<br />
some offer a pre-ordering service for newspapers and<br />
magazines they don’t usually stock.<br />
Akademinė Knyga C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5<br />
266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. A wide range of works for<br />
lexicographers, plus the usual dictionaries, reference books and<br />
paperback novels. One of the better places in town for foreign<br />
literature, which you’ll find in the back room downstairs. Q Open<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun (Sept - June). Open<br />
10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun (July and August). JA<br />
Didysis Pegasas G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5<br />
238 77 52, www.pegasas.lt. A bit of a way to go but the trip’s<br />
usually worth it. Upstairs is a selection of paperbacks in English<br />
that vary in quantity from a handful to over 1,000. To the left as<br />
you enter is a good selection of titles on art, photography etc. To<br />
the right find guidebooks aplenty. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Draugystė B-2, Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 5 268 50<br />
80, www.vaga.lt. This former largish bookshop recently<br />
removed half its stock and replaced it with a café operated<br />
by the best café chain in the country. The English-language<br />
novels can still be counted on one hand, but now there’s a<br />
reason to visit. Also find a decent selection of books about<br />
Lithuania in English. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. JA<br />
French Bookshop Pegasas C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. (+370)<br />
5 262 05 17, www.pegasas.eu. Adjoining the French Cultural<br />
Centre, if they don’t stock it they will happily order. You can<br />
also subscribe to French-language magazines here. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
August - November 2012<br />
77
80 shoPPing<br />
Humanitas B-3, Dominikonų 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53,<br />
www.humanitas.lt. Glossy books about art, architecture,<br />
interior design, shoes and Jamie Oliver. Also travel guides<br />
and atlases. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Mint Vinetu B-3, Šv. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370) 618<br />
203 47, www.mintvinetu.com. Hooray for the lovely people<br />
who opened this very welcome second-hand bookshop<br />
with small attached café in Old Town. The choice of books,<br />
including titles in English, may be small but it’s the best<br />
anybody’s managed to do so far. Recommended. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 20:00. JAW<br />
Rūdninkų Knygynas B-5, Rūdninkų 20, tel. (+370) 5<br />
261 02 66, www.rudninkuknygynas.lt. A rather cute little<br />
shop on the very edge of Old Town, as well as a good selection<br />
of a fine range of English language magazines on the subject<br />
of design, photography etc. find 12inch records from home<br />
and abroad. Also available are a few eco and handmade<br />
souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 15:00. JA<br />
Vaga G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 92,<br />
www.vaga.lt. An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few<br />
English books upstairs. Also at Konstitucijos 7a, Gedimino 9.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Sūrininkų Namai<br />
About six years ago two people called Valdas and Rasa<br />
started making cheese from cows’ and goats’ milk on<br />
a small farm in the village of Dargužiai some 50km<br />
southwest of Vilnius. What started out as a classic<br />
cottage industry caught the imagination of three other<br />
couples and has since ballooned into a thriving business<br />
producing 20 different cheeses made to traditional<br />
Lithuanian and French recipes (Valdas originally<br />
learnt his skills in France) from a total of 10 cows, 20<br />
goats and 20 sheep. Collectively known as Sūrininkų<br />
Namai, which roughly translates as The Home of<br />
Cheese, the organisation runs a small cheese shop<br />
and café in Dargužiai and, along with a local baker and<br />
chocolate-maker, sets up shop for a loyal fan base of<br />
eaters (they avoid using the word consumers) in Vilnius’<br />
Mano Guru restaurant (pictured, see p.41) every Sunday<br />
between 10:00 and 13:00. Dedicated to reviving Lithuania’s<br />
small-scale farming community, these people<br />
really know how to make good cheese. Newcomers to<br />
the Sunday event are welcome for spontaneous tasting<br />
sessions. Alternatively, cheese can be ordered in<br />
advance. See their website at www.surininkunamai.lt<br />
for more information.<br />
Flowers & Plants<br />
Flower Market (Gėlių Turgus) G-4, J. Basanavičiaus<br />
42. Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at<br />
Reformatų, which was a firewood market before that and<br />
even further back served as a cemetery for the church<br />
across the street. After the erection of the 1983 Monument<br />
to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the market was moved<br />
to its current location. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Gėlės ir Manufaktūra B-5, Rūdninkų 11/11,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 261 51 61, www.sododizainas.lt. A<br />
good selection of flowers and plants for the home and/<br />
or special occasions. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Computers<br />
iDeal Solution B-4, Vokiečių 5, tel. (+370) 5 240 54<br />
26, www.idealsolution.lt. The best place in town for Apple<br />
products, from laptops to iPods. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
The Notebook Shop I-1, S. Žukausko 17, tel. (+370)<br />
5 274 15 28, www.nshop.lt. A fine selection of PC laptops<br />
plus spare parts, peripheries, service and software. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Department stores<br />
Marks & Spencer A-1, Gedimino 20/1, tel. (+370) 5<br />
266 00 88, www.marks-and-spencer.lt. The wonderful M&S<br />
recently upped sticks and moved across the road to a new, bigger<br />
address. Expect the same brands of clothing for all plus the usual<br />
highly recommended food outlet. The new peanut butter in stock<br />
is particularly good, plus there’s all sorts of goodies including<br />
bitter lemon, sweet pickle and other classic goods from the UK.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Food department<br />
open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PJAU<br />
Fashion<br />
Vilniaus Kailiai G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5<br />
238 77 91, www.kailiai.lt. Lithuania’s largest natural fur<br />
and leather garment manufacturers produce a wide range of<br />
clothing from classic fur coats to accessories. Their retail outlet<br />
in Akropolis is the place to head for the fashion conscious<br />
as well as those who plan on spending the winter here. Also<br />
at Paupio 28. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Food & Drink<br />
AJ Šokoladas C-2, Pilies 8, tel. (+370) 655 955 55,<br />
www.ajsokoladas.lt. Delicious chocolates made daily in<br />
Trakai and delivered fresh. Sold by the gramme, so you can be<br />
as picky as you like. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Gedimino<br />
46. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTJA<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Austrian Gourmet & Bistro H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5<br />
269 72 81. A combined shop and small restaurant specialising<br />
in Austrian cuisine including chocolates, Mozartkugel,<br />
sparkling wine and schnapps. Visitors to the restaurant can<br />
enjoy a decent cup of coffee with an authentic slice of apple<br />
strudel, or even indulge in a classic Viennese schnitzel with<br />
potato salad. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. VNS<br />
Biosala B-4, Vokiečių 13, tel. (+370) 686 262 52. A<br />
good selection of mostly organic food in tins and packets<br />
plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing powder<br />
etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you enter. Also<br />
at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
Didžioji Krautuvė I-1, Verkių 29-22, tel. (+370) 612<br />
956 13, www.vilniausalus.lt. Over 20 different types of<br />
live Lithuanian beer from the good people at the Vilniaus Alus<br />
brewery plus a range of Lithuanian, German and Latvian beer<br />
in bottles. As well as being an ordinary shop, there’s also a<br />
window for buying without having to get out of your car. Also<br />
a range of snacks and smoked fish. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Eastanbul H-3, Kalvarijų 24a (Ibrahim), tel. (+370) 5<br />
273 17 38, www.ibrahim.lt. This predominantly Turkish<br />
food shop is the only thing of its kind in the city. Find the<br />
shelves bulging with an ever-increasing collection of things to<br />
eat including hummus, chalva (halva), several kinds of ajvar,<br />
Turkish yoghurt, herbs and spices, the fabulous rarity that’s<br />
haloumi and much more besides. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A<br />
Gourmet Delicafe C-3, Didžioji 8, tel. (+370) 5 264<br />
38 48. Hitching a ride of the coattails of the latest trend,<br />
find a small shop selling an admirable choice of food from<br />
Italy including pasta, meat, pesto, olive oil, coffee etc.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -<br />
20:00. JAW<br />
Gyvo Alaus Krautuvėlė H-3, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP),<br />
tel. (+370) 652 164 54, www.gyvasalus.lt. A small but<br />
highly recommended selection of traditional Lithuanian live<br />
beers for sale, among them the delicious Butautų Dvaro Alus,<br />
available in both light (šviesus) and dark (tamsus) varieties.<br />
Find it on the floor at ground level close to the coffee shop.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
IKI G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 40, www.<br />
iki.lt. Lithuania’s first supermarket chain, and still sticking<br />
to their core values of quality and freshness. Notable for<br />
having top-notch in-house bakeries in the bigger stores.<br />
Also at Žirmūnų 2, Sodų 22, Architektų 43/31. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 22:00. AL<br />
Iki Express D-3, Užupio 7/1, tel. (+370) 5 260 84 88,<br />
www.iki.lt. Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with<br />
edible treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked<br />
goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of groceries.<br />
Also at Pylimo 21, Vokiečių 13. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. JA<br />
Mamma Mia! C-4, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 653 800 85,<br />
www.dovanukrepsys.lt. A highly recommended new deli<br />
in the heart of Old Town selling a superb range of food and<br />
drink, mostly from small producers in Italy, Spain, Portugal,<br />
Belgium and Germany. As well as a shopping space there’s<br />
also a small café inside, where coffee and other drinks are<br />
served alongside the aforementioned wonderful food. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JAVSW<br />
Rūta A-1, A. Jakšto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 68,<br />
www.ruta.lt. Established in Šiauliai in 1913 and still<br />
based in the city, support your local confectioner and buy<br />
some of their treats as a gift or for the simple pleasure<br />
of stuffing them in your face. Everything from chocolate<br />
bars to caramel to truffles. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis) and<br />
Klaipėdos 1. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
shoPPing<br />
Senamiesčio Krautuvė C-3, Literatų 5, tel. (+370)<br />
5 231 28 36. An interesting idea that takes the old-fashioned<br />
deli idea of fresh products laid out in baskets sold<br />
by friendly, rosy-cheeked people and transforms it into a<br />
total Lithuanian experience. All the food for sale is local,<br />
including fruit, vegetables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes<br />
and drinks. During the summer months the shop turns into<br />
a bit of a café, with chairs and tables in the street. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
Skonio Studija A-3, J. Basanavičiaus 18, tel. (+370)<br />
5 243 62 26. This glorious shop mostly sells spices including,<br />
rather annoyingly, some but not all of the basic spices<br />
required to make <strong>In</strong>dian food. The best thing about it however<br />
are the little corners hiding such treats as chilli noodles,<br />
Dutch peanut butter and a range of Chinese and Japanese<br />
sauces. Also a small range of rice cookers and a few quality<br />
kitchen knives. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
JA<br />
Šturmų Švyturio Žuvys D-3, Užupio 9, tel. (+370)<br />
641 535 67, www.sturmuzuvys.lt. A small fishmongers<br />
selling a range of fish they catch and smoke themselves<br />
from the Curonian Lagoon and Baltic Sea. We haven’t<br />
tried it yet, but we will. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Sveiki Produktai H-3, A. Jakšto 9, tel. (+370) 659<br />
441 44, www.sveikiproduktai.lt. A fine selection of<br />
mostly food products, including a range of goods from<br />
the UK-based <strong>In</strong>finity Foods. Among the selection are<br />
Fair Trade organic basmati rice, organic peanut butter<br />
and large tins of ghee. Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama),<br />
Ozo 18 (Ozas), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Žirmūnų 64 (Rimi Hypermarket),<br />
Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ukmergės 264 (BIG).<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
August - November 2012<br />
81
82 shoPPing<br />
Užupio Krautuvė I-4, Užupio 23, tel. (+370) 686 793<br />
50, www.uzupiokrautuve.lt. An early contender for the prize<br />
title in the city’s delicatessen sweepstakes, the lovely Užupio<br />
Krautuvė offers a fine selection of Mediterranean gourmet<br />
food including olive oil, meat, cheese, a small selection of<br />
wine, foie gras and other welcome treats. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
Aukso Avis C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 261 04 21.<br />
Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian<br />
culture through a modern context. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
Aušros Vartų Meno Galerija C-5, Aušros Vartų 12,<br />
tel. (+370) 699 099 51. One of the better gift and souvenir<br />
shops in an area dripping in mediocre ones, find a small<br />
selection of locally-produced folk arts and crafts including<br />
some really lovely paper cuttings, intricate lacework, paintings<br />
and more besides. As if this wasn’t enough, the bright<br />
sparks who run the place also offer light refreshments and<br />
ice-cream complete with summer outdoor seating. Magic.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JA<br />
Gintraka C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 612 405 01, www.<br />
ambershop.lt. Amber, trinkets, knick-knacks, souvenirs and a<br />
delightful array of miscellaneous bits and bobs. Also at Aušros<br />
Vartų 13, Aušros Vartų 4, Pilies 23, Pilies 30, Pilies 9, Ozo 25<br />
(Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA<br />
Linen & Amber Studio C-4, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5<br />
261 02 13, www.lgstudija.lt. One of the best places to<br />
buy linen and amber. They have a great selection, and the<br />
girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didžioji 10,<br />
Didžioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 10. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
Lino Namai C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22, www.<br />
siulas.lt. Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for<br />
just about any part of the body or home. One of the city’s top<br />
shops. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
Mano Lietuviški Namai G-5, Ševčenkos 16, tel.<br />
(+370) 699 321 35, www.manolietuviskinamai.lt.<br />
Started by two female interior designers, this fine shop<br />
specialises in gathering the most interesting work from local<br />
craftspeople working in ceramics, metal, textiles and general<br />
interior design. As well as selling items for interiors, they also<br />
provide a full interior design and decorating service. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Sauluva C-3, Pilies 21/12, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 30,<br />
www.sauluva.lt. A great choice for souvenir and holiday<br />
shopping featuring a very respectable collection of amber jewellery<br />
plus Lithuanian made handicrafts mostly made of wood<br />
and glass. Also at Literatų 3. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J<br />
House & Garden<br />
Senukai Ukmergės 244, tel. (+370) 5 252 52 55, www.<br />
senukai.lt. A huge shopping centre with building materials,<br />
electrical equipment, miscellaneous household essentials, some<br />
basic office furniture, garden centre and outdoor furniture. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Jewellery<br />
Jūratės Akmenėliai A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 262<br />
02 79, www.juratesakmeneliai.lt. Why just buy jewellery<br />
when you can make your own? The concept here is all about<br />
importing a glittering array of beads and stuff from all over<br />
the world and allowing you to string them together to make<br />
whatever you please. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA<br />
Yurga B-3, Trakų 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56, www.<br />
yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes from<br />
nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and silver. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Lithuanian couture<br />
Julia Janus C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 619 640 20, www.<br />
juliajanus.com. Surplus to the Lithuanian designer Julija’s<br />
haute couture is a range of off-the-peg clothing for women of<br />
all shapes and sizes available at reasonable prices. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Julija Fashion House C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 618<br />
059 09, www.julija.lt. Applying a soft touch with stunning<br />
effect, Julija is the sort of designer who’d like to get to know you<br />
before you get dressed. Not only can she design your personal<br />
wardrobe, but your whole house too. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
Lino Kopos H-3, Krokuvos 6, tel. (+370) 5 275 12 00,<br />
www.linokopos.lt. The name means linen dunes, which<br />
sounds like a laundry nightmare, but is actually a fair reflection<br />
of the range and beauty of creations made exclusively<br />
from this versatile natural fibre. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Ramunės Piekautaitės Mados Namai C-4, Didžioji<br />
20, tel. (+370) 5 231 22 70, www.ramunepiekautaite.<br />
com. Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of<br />
daring and/or fruity nonsense and press the puree button. Or<br />
just pop along here to see the results, courtesy of another internationally<br />
successful local designer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA<br />
Zoraza C-3, Stiklių 9, tel. (+370) 687 517 31, www.<br />
zoraza.com. Bags, boots, shoes, furry things, shiny things,<br />
florid frocks, and a glitzy upholstered toilet. The only thing<br />
we can find in common among all the creations tucked away<br />
in this bristling boutique, other than the fact that they’ve<br />
tumbled from the presumably chaotic cognitions of designer<br />
Daiva Urbonavičiūtė, is a certain wacky weirdness. Not for the<br />
straight-laced. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Photography<br />
Fototechnika G-5, Smolensko 10a, tel. (+370) 5 279<br />
15 45, www.fototechnika.lt. Although this is arguably the<br />
best photography shop in Vilnius if not the country, don’t go<br />
getting too excited. Although they stock an impressive range<br />
(for local standards) of cameras, accessories, film stock,<br />
lighting, paper and chemicals alongside such hard-to-find<br />
things as cable releases, the selection remains rather small.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Vilbra Foto G-5, Švitrigailos 11b, tel. (+370) 5 239 41<br />
30, www.vilbrafoto.lt. The best choice of dSLRs and digital<br />
compact cameras for the serious enthusiast in the city. Also,<br />
tripods, flashguns, lenses etc. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Vilniaus Antikvaro Centras Fotoprekių Skyrius<br />
C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 64 76. Tucked<br />
away to the right of the main antiques shop is a man behind<br />
a desk selling a beautiful selection of old film cameras and<br />
other related equipment include Leicas and some Soviet<br />
classics. Worth a peep at least. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Recorded music<br />
IMuzika H-3, A. Jakšto 24/3, tel. (+370) 615 940 01,<br />
www.imuzika.lt. Lithuania’s biggest label and one hip shop<br />
presenting jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music.<br />
Orders accepted. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Ragainė C-2, Pilies 6, tel. (+370) 688 196 55, info@<br />
ragaine.org, www.ragaine.org. Barely recognisable at the<br />
bottom of a small flight of steps, this tiny shop specialises<br />
in darkish-leaning underground music from the Baltic States<br />
as well as a few other more recognisable CDs from around<br />
the world. Also for sale is a range of pre-Christian-style ethnic<br />
jewellery, badges, black ceramics, t-shirts and more. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Rūdninkų Knygynas B-5, Rūdninkų 20, tel. (+370)<br />
5 261 02 66, info@rudninkuknygynas.lt, http://shop.<br />
rudninkuknygynas.lt. A rather cute little shop on the very<br />
edge of Old Town, as well as a good selection of 12inch records<br />
from home and abroad find a fine range of English language<br />
magazines on the subject of design, photography etc. Also<br />
available are a few eco and handmade souvenirs. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.<br />
Thelonious C-3, Stiklių 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 76,<br />
www.thelonious.lt. A superb choice of second-hand CDs<br />
and vinyl, mostly jazz but also a few other gems you won’t<br />
find in a mainstream music shop. They also sell a range of<br />
old-fashioned hi-fi equipment for those who don’t know their<br />
iPods from their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious<br />
now organise the occasional jazz concert. See the website for<br />
more information. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. J<br />
Speciality shops<br />
Bitinėlis B-6, Šopeno 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233 05 70,<br />
www.bitinelis.lt. A glorious little shop selling a range of<br />
locally-produced honey plus everything you ever needed to<br />
start producing the stuff yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri<br />
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Boutique of Various Things (Visokių Daiktų<br />
Krautuvėlė) D-3, Užupio 20, tel. (+370) 5 210 52 17,<br />
www.vdk.lt. A delightfully Užupisesque experience, this<br />
smart little shop accessed via a door down an alleyway<br />
specialises in miniature steam engines, musical boxes,<br />
animated tin toys, other fun things and a whole range of<br />
niche perfumes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Daiktų Viešbutis G-5, Ševčenkos 16a, tel. (+370)<br />
686 497 43, www.daiktuviesbutis.lt. Located in an area<br />
rapidly making a name for itself as the place to come for<br />
expensive designer bits and pieces for the home, Daiktų<br />
Viešbutis (Hotel of Things) is packed with goodies, from<br />
clothing to impossible-looking cardboard tables to the latest<br />
swanky offerings from the Lomo people. Q Open 11:00 -<br />
19:00. Closed Sat (June - August).Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 16:00. A<br />
De’ Žavu C-4, Savičiaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 15 56. A<br />
small and rather natty boutique selling vintage clothing and<br />
accessories as well as a small range of new fashion. Find everything<br />
from old wedding dresses and sunglasses to shoes to<br />
ties to mirrors. Also at Šv. Ignoto 3/1. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. JA<br />
Komisas G-4, V. Kudirkos 1/7, tel. (+370) 684 831 54.<br />
Second-hand clothes, furniture, televisions, hi-fi equipment<br />
and more. An excellent little place to rummage around, they<br />
also buy stuff as well as sell it. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ona C-4, Šv. Kazimiero 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 63,<br />
www.ona.lt. A multitude of things for the home, paintings,<br />
photographs, jewellery, paper cuts and a host of other<br />
similar articles, all made by small-scale artists, designers<br />
and producers in Lithuania. Promoting ecologically-friendly<br />
products and worthy of much over-needed applause, if that<br />
isn’t enough you can buy everything online and three per cent<br />
of the money you spend goes to a charity of your choice.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Lietuvos Kvapas<br />
shoPPing<br />
Visitors to Lithuania looking for a unique gift or souvenir<br />
look no further! For just 99Lt it’s now possible to buy a<br />
scent that, according to its Lithuanian creators, not only<br />
impersonates the fragrances of the country but that<br />
also recreates the history of its towns and villages, its<br />
nature, traditions, heritage and the achievements of its<br />
people. We kid you not. Called Lietuvos Kvapas (Scent of<br />
Lithuania), the three-note perfume features a cavalcade<br />
of odours including bergamot, ginger, lily of the valley,<br />
amber and patchouli and was developed by the French<br />
perfumier Galimard to be used as an air freshener rather<br />
than a body perfume. The American political satirist<br />
Stephen Colbert recently picked up the scent of the<br />
story, describing Lietuvos Kvapas as smelling of a goat<br />
slaughtered at a lesbian drum circle. The good news is<br />
that it doesn’t smell that bad at all, although we’re still<br />
struggling to get the connection between Lithuania and<br />
patchouli. Lietuvos Kvapas, which is now also available<br />
in scented candle form, is available in several souvenir<br />
shops in Old Town, the Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre,<br />
Kaunas Airport and online from the dedicated website<br />
at www.lietuvoskvapas.lt.<br />
Sport & Recreation<br />
Dviratis Tau G-4, Švitrigailos 5, tel. (+370) 5 265 12<br />
59, www.dviratistau.lt. A well established national chain of<br />
shops selling quality bicycles of all types plus spares. Makers<br />
include Focus, Kalkhoff, Specialized and Wheeler. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Golf City G-4, Savanorių 1 (Helios City, 2nd floor),<br />
tel. (+370) 615 161 61, www.golfcity.lt. There are two<br />
golf clubs in the Vilnius area (see www.capitals.lt and www.<br />
golfclub.lt for more) and this is the shop that serves them.<br />
Everything from clubs to tees to those ridiculous patterned<br />
trousers golfers love to wear. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A<br />
Laisvės Turas Laisvės 123, tel. (+370) 5 273 67 11,<br />
www.laisvesturas.lt. For lovers of the outdoor life, find<br />
everything from tents and camping gear in general to sports<br />
clothing to canoes and even barbecue equipment. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A<br />
Prosport Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 682 437 13, www.<br />
prosport.lt. Trainers, footballs, rugby balls, golf clubs,<br />
racquets, skis, swimming costumes and much much more.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Sportas ir Mada B-4, Pylimo 36, tel. (+370) 5 262 41<br />
27, www.expedition.lt. A good selection of sports equipment<br />
and a limited range of clothing. Excellent location right<br />
on the edge of Old Town. Also at Šeimyniškių 5a. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
August - November 2012<br />
83
84 liFestyle direCtory<br />
Barbers & Beauty<br />
Beauty <strong>In</strong>stitute B-3, Vokiečių 28/17, tel. (+370) 5<br />
262 91 87, www.sugihara.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Figaro B-4, Vokiečių 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 12,<br />
www.figaro.lt. Chopping locks here there and everywhere.<br />
Also at Gedimino 9, Gedimino 54, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa),<br />
Jogailos 4. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sun. JA<br />
Franko C-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370)<br />
5 262 00 82/(+370) 670 225 54,<br />
frankosalonas@gmail.com. Get a<br />
sprucing-up in this recommended<br />
salon right on Pilies. The bright-eyed,<br />
English-speaking staff will make<br />
your hair swell with style.QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Gatineau B-2, Totorių 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 64,<br />
www.haircut.lt. A very pleasant hairdressing, manicure,<br />
pedicure, make-up, massage, cosmetology salon with early<br />
hours and smiling English- and Italian-speaking staff. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Cable television<br />
The companies listed below provide cable television services<br />
to different parts of the city. Ask your landlord/lady<br />
or a local friend about which one is available in your area.<br />
They also all provide broadband internet.<br />
C Gates F-5, S. Konarskio 49, tel. (+370) 5 210 75<br />
75, www.cgates.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 20:00. J<br />
Vinita S. Stanevičiaus 21a, tel. (+370) 5 230 13 01,<br />
www.vinita.lt. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:00 -<br />
19:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:45. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Cleaning services<br />
DD Projects Laisvės 77-323, tel. (+370) 683 461 41.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 24hrs.<br />
Computer repair<br />
Matrix G-5, Vytenio 10, tel. (+370) 5 213 45 74, www.<br />
matrix.lt. Hard drive recovery et al. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Currency exchange<br />
Citadele B-6, Geležinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 5 213 54<br />
54, www.keitykla.lt. Capable of changing just about any<br />
convertible currency as well as all Baltic denominations and<br />
Belarusian roubles. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Dress hire<br />
Kino Studija I-1, Kareivių 6, tel. (+370) 656 688 28,<br />
www.lfs.lt. These people can rent you anything they have in<br />
stock from their wide range of silly costumes. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Dry cleaners & Launderettes<br />
Joglė G-3, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Goštauto),<br />
tel. (+370) 5 264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. The full range of dry<br />
cleaning and laundry services. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima),<br />
Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Skalbiu Sau Saulėtekio 41, tel. (+370) 5 269 60 98,<br />
www.skalbiusau.lt. A good old-fashioned launderette that<br />
can also pick up and drop off your laundry if you can’t be<br />
bothered to do it yourself. Also at Šeškinės 26, Savanorių 176,<br />
Liepkalnio 112. QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
LGBT<br />
The websites at www.gayline.lt and www.gay.lt have<br />
information about gay and lesbian organisations, events<br />
and accommodation in Lithuania, plus community news,<br />
chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania remains stuck<br />
in the Stone Age concerning its attitude towards gay and<br />
lesbians, including in the capital. Be very, very careful.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Genealogy<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation Bureau Tel. (+370) 699 599 88, www.<br />
lithuaniavisits.com. Former journalist and six times European<br />
Ham Radio Operator champion, Vilius Vaseikis provides<br />
a unique and fascinating service arranging tours of Lithuania<br />
for people of Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from helping<br />
to locate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is<br />
also the man to speak to if you’re thinking of relocating to<br />
Lithuania or are simply looking to rent an apartment.<br />
Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (Istorijos<br />
Archyvo Skyrius) G-3, K. Kalinausko 21, tel. (+370)<br />
5 233 78 46, www.archyvai.lt. The entire Lithuanian civil<br />
registry archives from 1940 to the present day, including<br />
records of all births, deaths and marriages. <strong>In</strong> order to use this<br />
service, location and approximate date are essential. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos Centrinis<br />
Valstybės Archyvas) O. Milašiaus 21, tel. (+370) 5 247<br />
78 11, www.archyvai.lt/lt/lcva.html. When the Nazis invaded<br />
Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to prepare an extensive<br />
set of records of everyone living in the country, proving that every<br />
cloud, no matter how dark and evil it is, does indeed have a silver<br />
lining. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the<br />
period of 1941-1942 should consult this archive. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos<br />
Valstybės Istorijos Archyvas) F-6, Gerosios Vilties<br />
10, tel. (+370) 5 213 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. The same<br />
as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), only<br />
these archives are from the church registry up until 1940.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Registry (Gyventojų Registro Tarnyba) G-4, Vivulskio<br />
4a, tel. (+370) 5 271 77 88, www.gyvreg.lt. If you<br />
have a name and need an address these people will help<br />
you locate the person in question (the addition of a town<br />
helps speed things up no end), although non-Lithuanians be<br />
warned that if the person in question is located they are first<br />
asked if they actually want to be ‘found’ before the address<br />
is given. The sensible thing for non-nationals to do is to use<br />
this service with a Lithuanian intermediary. QOpen 07:30 -<br />
16:30, Fri 07:30 - 15:15. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational schools<br />
American <strong>In</strong>ternational School of Vilnius I-5,<br />
Subačiaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 31, www.aisv.lt.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
French <strong>In</strong>ternational School J-2, Šilo 13, tel. (+370)<br />
5 276 91 32, www.efv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Saulės Gojus Šumsko plentas 86, Grigaičiai, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 248 59 88, www.saulesgojus.lt. A good few<br />
kilometres east of the city, this recommended kindergarden<br />
provides care and pre-school education to boys and girls from<br />
three upwards in either Lithuanian/English or Lithuanian/German.<br />
Reports from parents say that the standard of care is<br />
Special interest groups<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Women’s Association K. Borutos<br />
26-58, tel. (+370) 685 212 43, iwavilnius@gmail.<br />
com, www.iwavilnius.com. Vilnius’ long established<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Women’s Association welcomes women<br />
from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian<br />
capital. As well as organising such traditional social<br />
events as coffee mornings, the IWA runs a playgroup and<br />
is involved in a number of charitable activities.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
liFestyle direCtory<br />
exceptionally high and that the country setting is delightful.<br />
A bus ferries everyone from the city and back again. They’ve<br />
also now opened an accompanying primary school. QOpen<br />
07:30 - 19:00, Fri 07:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational School C/D-3, Rusų 3, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 276 15 64, www.vischool.lt. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Vilnius Montessori pre-School Naujakurių 29, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 270 08 80, www.vms.lt. Enrolment is throughout<br />
the year. Places are limited. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Key cut<br />
Raktinė D-2, B. Radvilaitės 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 65 65,<br />
www.raktine.lt. Also at Pylimo 49. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />
Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Raktų Centras B-5, Pylimo 37, tel. (+370) 5 260 88<br />
22. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
24hrs emergency. J<br />
Language courses<br />
Lingua Lituanica A-1, Gedimino<br />
26, tel. (+370) 5 231<br />
32 39, www.lingualit.lt. Learn<br />
Lithuanian with courses of varying<br />
length suitable for everyone from short-term visitors<br />
to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week summer<br />
and winter courses are also available and include plenty<br />
of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are competitive<br />
compared to courses offered by the universities.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
August - November 2012<br />
85
86 liFestyle direCtory<br />
Jaunimo Perspektyva A-2, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370)<br />
687 494 22, www.ltmrs.lt/jp. Various levels of Lithuanian<br />
language instruction on an individual or group basis. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. J<br />
Libraries<br />
CAC Reading Room (ŠMC Skaitykla) C-4, Vokiečių<br />
2 (Contemporary Art Centre), tel. (+370) 5 260 89 60,<br />
www.cac.lt. Archives of information on contemporary art.<br />
Dynamic library with an extensive collection of exhibitions<br />
catalogues, theoretical books, periodicals, videotapes and<br />
CDs. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Martynas Mažvydas Lithuanian National Library<br />
(Lietuvos Nacionalinė Martyno Mažvydo Biblioteka)<br />
G-3, Gedimino 51 (Entrance from A. Tumėno),<br />
tel. (+370) 5 249 70 28, www.lnb.lt. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Open 11:00 - 19:00,<br />
Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun (July - August).<br />
Photographic services<br />
Kodak ProCentras G-4, Savanorių 22, tel. (+370) 5 213<br />
27 52, www.procentras.lt. The only truly pro shop in town<br />
can provide index prints and rush all manner of film formats<br />
through in an hour if you ask them nicely, although the usual<br />
turnaround is more usually a day. Transparency films get done<br />
in batches, and rather annoyingly can take up to a month to<br />
process. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Shoe repair<br />
Avalynės Taisykla B-4, Labdarių 1/22, tel. (+370) 5<br />
262 88 63. Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Tattoos & Piercing<br />
Drakono Ženklas B-3, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 5 261<br />
40 64, www.tattoo.lt. Prices start from around 50Lt, but<br />
changing the name of a former lover into an anchor and chain<br />
usually involves a bit of work and costs more. Especially<br />
if you’re trying to remove a Lithuanian surname. Piercing<br />
is offered, but they won’t touch your naughty bits. Unless<br />
you’re very sexy. They have previously refused to tattoo<br />
tongues, but did once tattoo someone’s foot. They limped<br />
home. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed<br />
Sun. J<br />
Modus A-6, Kauno 6, tel. (+370) 5 233 42 38, www.<br />
modus.lt. A little out of the centre but worth it because<br />
they only charge 80Lt to change ‘Asta’ to ‘Pasta’. They claim<br />
they will tattoo anything anywhere for the right price, so take<br />
your granny along and give them a challenge. They have<br />
previously slapped tatts on little toes and bald heads. They<br />
also do piercing. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. J<br />
Paradizė B-2, Totorių 15, tel. (+370) 688 589 90, www.<br />
paradize.lt. For 50 - 150Lt you can get a matchbox, or any<br />
similarly sized design, tattooed almost anywhere. (There are<br />
body parts that they won’t fill with ink, but they wouldn’t tell us<br />
which ones.) Somewhat worryingly, they couldn’t remember<br />
the strangest tattoo they’ve ever been asked to do. They will<br />
also poke holes in you. Q By appointment only. J<br />
Vets & Pets<br />
Senamiesčio Veterinarijos Klinika B-2/3, Liejyklos<br />
6/21, tel. (+370) 699 612 65, www.veterinaras.lt.<br />
House calls can be arranged. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. JA<br />
Wellness<br />
Amber Massage SPA C-5/6, Aušros Vartų 15, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 261 49 23. The brainchild of a lady from Israel,<br />
this strange and rather beguiling addition to the city’s growing<br />
wellness community provides a range of massages using<br />
amber, from little rods of it to bags of crushed amber to an<br />
entire mini beach of the stuff that you lie on whilst a young<br />
lady walks on top of you. There’s a sauna too, and the whole<br />
thing has been designed to re-energise owning to amber’s<br />
peculiar proclivity to generate small amounts of electricity.<br />
Note that the opening hours listed here are a guideline. Appointments<br />
can be made outside of office hours. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00. JA<br />
Ayurvedic SPA Centre Shanti J-4, Subačiaus 17,<br />
tel. (+370) 606 755 57, www.ajurveda.lt. Enjoy a<br />
steam sauna, a copper rose bath, massage for two, tea<br />
ceremony or ayurvedic relaxing massage and peeling. They<br />
speak English and also offer gift vouchers. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 21:00. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun (June - August).<br />
JA<br />
Azia Spa B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 244 46 46,<br />
info@aziaspa.lt, www.aziaspa.lt. A range of Eastern-style<br />
massages with a Buddhist philosophy, plus spa treatments,<br />
body scrubs, aromatherapy and more. Thai masseurs on<br />
hand fo the ultimate authentic experience. Special massages<br />
for couples also available. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 -<br />
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA<br />
East Island Exotic C-4, Didžioji 40/2, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
55 99, www.eastisland.lt. Spice up your life with a range of<br />
massages including several delivered with the aid of stones,<br />
honey and even chocolate. They also offer their so-called ‘exciting<br />
erotic all body massage’ alongside a less risqué range<br />
of facials, body masks and scrubs. Also at Šv. Kazimiero 2.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. J<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Exotic Spa I-1, Kareivių 14 (Impuls Plius), tel. (+370)<br />
605 556 66, www.exoticspa.lt. A choice of fabulous and<br />
titillating massages from the conventional to the naughty. Also<br />
a wide range of spa bath treatments, seaweed body wraps<br />
and plenty, plenty more. Also at Šv. Mikalojaus 5. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 21:00. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00<br />
(June - August). A<br />
Exotic Spa Morocco B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 12 15/(+370) 605 556 66, spa@exoticspa.lt,<br />
www.morocco.exoticspa.lt. A wide range of massages and<br />
spa procedures, spa treatment packages for couples and a<br />
few saucy options for gentlemen, all inside an atmospheric Old<br />
Town cellar. See the website for a full list of services.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Idzumi Spa I-2, Sporto 12, tel. (+370) 5 247 24 70,<br />
www.idzumi.lt. An Asian atmosphere permeates and<br />
soothes, as do all the treatments and services including spa,<br />
sauna, massage, cosmetics, solarium and more. It’s a fresh<br />
approach which will leave you feeling very alive and refreshed.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Open<br />
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (June - August) A<br />
Joga Visiems G-3, Lukiškių 3, tel. (+370) 689 098 16,<br />
www.asana.lt. Weekly 90-minute Iyengar Yoga classes in English<br />
by local man Antanas who trained in Amsterdam. Classes<br />
start 19:00 every Sunday. Q No classes June - August.<br />
Spa Centre East Island G-2, Konstitucijos 26 (Forum<br />
Palace 1st floor), tel. (+370) 5 272 22 27, www.eastisland.lt.<br />
One of the city’s largest spas, services here include<br />
aromatic bathtubs, a wide range of Thai massages, facials<br />
etc. and a wealth of cosmetic procedures to make you feel reborn.<br />
The centre comes complete with an Oriental ambience<br />
including representations of Buddha on the wall and a tranquil<br />
Eastern soundtrack. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A<br />
News agencies<br />
BNS A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 205 85 01, www.<br />
bns.lt. J<br />
Online news<br />
Lithuania Tribune, tel. (+370) 614 312 15, editor@<br />
lithuaniatribune.com, www.lithuaniatribune.com. A recommended<br />
site featuring news about Lithuania on subjects<br />
including politics, economics and international relations.<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation is gathered from other news sources, academia<br />
and the political world and translated into English.<br />
Print media<br />
Baltic Times B-5, Raugyklos 15-305, tel. (+370) 5<br />
212 44 90, www.baltictimes.com. A weekly newspaper<br />
in English with news about all three Baltic states. Published<br />
every Friday and available for sale in some bookshops as well<br />
as for free in a number of hotels. J<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> D-2, Bernardinų 9-4, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
29 76, www.inyourpocket.com. Europe’s leading provider<br />
of locally produced urban information in print, online, video,<br />
PDF and now on the iPhone. Practical information from Dublin<br />
to Moscow, Tallinn to Tirana. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Radio<br />
BBC World Service 95.5FM, www.bbc.co.uk/<br />
worldservice.<br />
Start FM 94.2FM. A campus radio station run by students<br />
from Vilnius University, Start FM is the only non-commercial radio<br />
station currently operating in the capital. The music policy is<br />
to concentrate and highlight a wealth of home-grown music.<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
liFestyle direCtory<br />
August - November 2012<br />
87
88 health<br />
All you need to<br />
know about<br />
where to sleep,<br />
eat, drink, visit<br />
and enjoy<br />
Print<br />
Mobile<br />
Online<br />
Europe’s biggest publisher of<br />
locally produced city guides<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
Dentists<br />
Dentists in Vilnius are of a high quality and relatively<br />
inexpensive by Western standards. The following dentists<br />
all have English-speaking staff.<br />
A ir B Mackevičių Odontologijos<br />
Klinika B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus<br />
9-9, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 12, mackeviciai@mail.lt,<br />
www.dentaltravel.lt.<br />
Laser-whitening 1,000Lt, implant 2,000<br />
- 3,000Lt/tooth, prosthetic-CAM-DAM<br />
CEREC 3 system 800 -1,500Lt, treatment with magnification<br />
(microscope and lens). Also at Nemenčinės 54a (Baltic-<br />
American Clinic), K. Dineikos 1, Druskininkai (SPA Vilnius).<br />
Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Dr. Br. Sidaravičius A-3, Klaipėdos 2/14-3, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 262 97 60. Check-up 30 - 120Lt, cleaning<br />
250Lt, whitening 117Lt/tooth, filling 160 - 600Lt, implant<br />
from 6,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. J<br />
Gidenta H-3, A.Vienuolio 14-3, tel. (+370) 5 261 71<br />
43, www.gidenta.lt. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 5 - 6Lt /<br />
tooth, laser - whitening 780Lt, filling 80 - 200Lt, extraction<br />
50 - 400Lt, implant 1,800 - 2,200Lt/tooth. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Odontika I-4, Krivių 5, tel. (+370) 5 215 31 35, www.<br />
odontika.com. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 150Lt, laser-whitening<br />
25Lt/tooth, filling 100 - 160Lt, extraction 80 - 400Lt,<br />
implant 1,650Lt/tooth. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun by<br />
appointment only. A<br />
V. Pūro Odontologijos Klinika C-3, Universiteto 2/18,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 231 29 52, www.odontologijosklinika.lt.<br />
Check-up 40 - 50Lt, cleaning 6Lt/tooth, laser - whitening,<br />
1,000Lt, filling 150 - 300Lt, extraction 150 - 400Lt, implant<br />
4,000 - 5,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. JA<br />
HIV & AIDS<br />
Communicable Diseases & AIDS Centre<br />
(Užkrečiamųjų Ligų ir AIDS Centras) Nugalėtojų<br />
14d, tel. (+370) 5 230 01 25, fax (+370) 5 276 79 67,<br />
www.ulac.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Hospitals<br />
Vilnius University Hospital (Respublikinė Vilniaus<br />
Universitetinė Ligoninė) Šiltnamių 29, tel. (+370) 5<br />
216 90 69, www.rvul.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 19:00. 24hrs.<br />
Medical services<br />
Baltic-American Clinic Nemenčinės 54a, tel. (+370) 5<br />
234 20 20/(+370) 698 526 55, www.bak.lt. Highly recommended<br />
modern professional health care and diagnostics,<br />
now bigger and better than ever. Q Open 24hrs. A<br />
Fertility Centre C-2, Maironio 25-22, tel. (+370) 5 261<br />
42 26, www.vaisingumocentras.lt. Highly recommended<br />
modern fertility treatments. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. JA<br />
Fertility Clinic Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 656 444<br />
40, www.vaisingumas.lt. Full-service gynaecologist.<br />
Fertility treatments, obstetrics and modern therapies for<br />
menopause. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Fri 08:30 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Kardiolita Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 00, www.<br />
kardiolita.lt. Privately-run general hospital. Broad range of<br />
medical services. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Medical Diagnostic and Treatment Centre (Medicinos<br />
Diagnostikos ir Gydymo Centras) J-1, V.<br />
Grybo 32a, tel. (+370) 5 270 91 20, www.medcentras.<br />
lt. Excellent staff and facilities for everything from regular<br />
check-ups to major surgery, with all the lab tests, scans and<br />
caring guidance along the way. English speaking doctors.<br />
24-hour urgent surgery services. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Medicine General Private Clinics B-2, Gedimino<br />
1a-19, tel. (+370) 684 331 00 (appointments). Excellent<br />
English-speaking doctor for general and family health located<br />
in the city centre opposite the Cathedral. High quality care.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA<br />
Northway Medical Center I-1, S. Žukausko 19, tel. (+370)<br />
5 264 44 66, www.nmc.lt. General practitioners and specialists<br />
in cardiology, gynaecology, otorhinolaryngology and more. QOpen<br />
07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Novana G/H-4, Basanavičiaus 18, tel. (+370) 686 122<br />
43, www.novana.lt. Laser-related aesthetic procedures<br />
including permanent hair removal with IPL, skin pigmentation<br />
treatment, lymph draining massage and much more. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Šeimos Medicinos Centras (Family Medical<br />
Centre) A-3, Pylimo 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 86 84, www.<br />
seimosgydytojas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />
15:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Skin & Laser Surgery Center G-4, M. K. Čiurlionio<br />
19/36-30, tel. (+370) 5 264 73 04, www.lazerinechirurgija.lt.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Sugihara Beauty Therapy & Surgery Clinic E-1, Č.<br />
Sugiharos 3, tel. (+370) 5 270 57 10, www.sugihara.lt.<br />
A highly trained team of consulting doctors will come to the<br />
rescue if your beauty is slipping away. You can also indulge<br />
yourself with a massage or various other forms of pampering.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 18:00 (June - August). A<br />
Opticians<br />
Optometrijos Centras B-4, Vokiečių 26, tel. (+370) 5<br />
262 75 91, www.optometrija.lt. Also at Gedimino 9. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Rega C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 73, www.<br />
rega.lt. Also at Gedimino 49a/2. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA<br />
Vision Express B-4, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), tel.<br />
(+370) 5 262 26 69, www.visionexpress.lt. Also at A.<br />
Vienuolio 14, Gedimino 3a. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Aušlavis C-2, Tilto 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 85 88. Homeopathic.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA<br />
Eurovaistinė Ukmergės 282 (Maxima), tel. (+370) 5<br />
230 37 59. Q Open 24hrs. A<br />
Gedimino Vaistinė H-3, Gedimino 27, tel. (+370) 5<br />
261 01 35. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 16:00. JA<br />
Operos Vaistinė A-1, A. Vienuolio 6-21, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 61 16. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Universiteto Vaistinė C-3, Universiteto 2, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 12 19. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JA<br />
Vokiečių Vaistinė C-4, Didžioji 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 42<br />
32. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA<br />
vilnius.inyourpocket.com<br />
health<br />
August - November 2012<br />
89
90 sPort & leisure<br />
Active leisure<br />
Force One Tel. (+370) 5 233 98 07, info@forceone.lt,<br />
www.forceone.lt. Extreme, outdoorsy and team-building<br />
type activities. Mostly caters to corporate clients.<br />
Labas Nuotykių Parkas (Labas Adventure Park) Lizdeikos,<br />
tel. (+370) 602 323 66, www.labasnuotykiuparkas.lt.<br />
Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the<br />
Neris river, Labas Nuotykių Parkas offers over 1.5km of tracks<br />
up in the trees aimed at everyone from children to beginners to<br />
professional Tarzans. Each track comes with zip-lines for aerial<br />
flights, plus there’s a 16m swing for the completely insane and<br />
an aerial runway across the river. The place is hidden from the<br />
road and there are no signposts at all. A map on their website<br />
partially solves the mystery. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Bowling & Billiards<br />
Boulingo Klubas G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249<br />
66 00, www.boulingoklubas.lt. Complete with Lithuanian<br />
dishes and beer, the six lanes squeezed next to each other<br />
allow for much drunken bowling. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Wed,<br />
Thu 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 21:00. PAW<br />
Cosmic Bowling G-4, Vytenio 6/23, tel. (+370) 5 233<br />
99 09, www.bowling.lt. Wonky lanes and pins on strings.<br />
Better lanes and equipment upstairs, where prices are also<br />
higher. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PW<br />
Free Ball H-2, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 656<br />
205 80. A pleasant enough space featuring a bar and several<br />
pool tables in excellent condition. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA<br />
Fitness & Gyms<br />
Forum Sports Club G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370)<br />
5 210 31 49, www.forumfitness.lt. Gym, aerobics, 25m<br />
pool, saunas, modern equipment and the option of a personal<br />
trainer to shout at you while you use it. Q Open 06:30 - 22:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00 (Aug). Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun<br />
08:00 - 22:00 (from September). AFDC<br />
Impuls Plus I-1, Kareivių 14, tel. (+370) 615 400<br />
72, www.impuls.lt. Strength and cardiovascular workout<br />
gear, aerobics, sauna, spa, pool and waterslide. Also at L.<br />
Asanavičiūtės 15, Savanorių 28, Fabijoniškių 97a. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 21:00. Open 06:30 - 21:30,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00 (June - August). ADC<br />
On wheels<br />
Fun2Go Plytinės 27, tel. (+370) 699 567 04, www.<br />
kartodromas.lt. This go-cart track offers speed, mayhem,<br />
danger, so it’s just like the rest of Lithuania’s road network,<br />
but with smaller cars and more fun. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.<br />
Racquet sports<br />
Teniso Pasaulis E-1, Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 246 08<br />
36, www.sebarena.lt. 30 - 95Lt/hour depending on when<br />
you want to play. A<br />
Saunas<br />
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies<br />
24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82,<br />
info@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. There’s a sauna,<br />
steam room and a modest pool with spa bath. And a nice<br />
little fountain. A hidden treat on the main tourist promenade<br />
of Old Town. JA<br />
Sky stuff<br />
Oreivystės Centras (Ballooning Centre) G-3, Upės<br />
5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.ballooning.lt. Hot-air<br />
balloons and other off-the-ground antics.<br />
Social sports<br />
Hash House Harriers Tel. (+370) 685 212 43,<br />
www.vilniushhh.blogspot.com. Run or walk around for<br />
a bit, then drink and chat. The Vilnius chapter of this world<br />
phenomenon meet once a month. See their blog for more<br />
information.<br />
Table tennis<br />
Sostinės Stalo Teniso Sporto Klubas J-3, Olandų<br />
6/1, tel. (+370) 654 020 59, www.vilniaus-stalo-tenisas.lt.<br />
A large, modern table tennis club complete with lots<br />
of tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching<br />
or just playing for pleasure. Find it above the Maxima supermarket<br />
on the left going up the hill. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Water sports<br />
Diugonis (Scuba-diving) J. Matulaičio 7-38, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 240 70 15, www.scubadiving.lt. A PADI<br />
dive centre, with English-speaking staff, who can arrange<br />
dives in the lakes around Trakai. Scuba gear available<br />
for hire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Lietuvos Vaikų ir Jaunimo Centras G-2, Konstitucijos<br />
25, tel. (+370) 5 273 33 33, www.lvjc.lt. The pool is only<br />
25m long but it’s clean as a whistle and, despite being in a<br />
children’s and youth centre, it’s not just for kiddies.<br />
Vichy Aqua Park H-1, Ozo 14c, tel. 118, www.<br />
vandensparkas.lt. A big explosion of aquatic fun with a<br />
pleasantly up-lifting Polynesian theme throughout. There<br />
are dizzying water slides, a pretend beach with real waves,<br />
oodles of pools of various types (one with a bar) and all<br />
sorts of saunas and spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs,<br />
the taxi fare’s still worth it, or take bus N°53 if you’re feeling<br />
cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
TAEKDC<br />
Chess<br />
The general consensus among historians is that chess<br />
(šachmatai) arrived in Lithuania in the 17th century,<br />
brought here by the ruling classes from Western Europe.<br />
Others claim its history goes back a good deal further.<br />
What is undeniable however is the fact that the first ever<br />
documented game played in the country took place in<br />
1887, the year the first chess club was founded in Lithuania.<br />
The first international tournament took place in<br />
Vilnius in 1912, attracting many skilful exponents from<br />
abroad, including the great Polish master Akiba Rubinstein<br />
(1882-1961), who won and took the title back to<br />
his native homeland. Lithuania’s most notable exponent<br />
was a man by the name of Vladas Mikėnas (1910-1992),<br />
famous for beating the world champion at the time in an<br />
albeit informal game way back in 1937. Chess remains a<br />
favourite sport (call it a game in front of a serious player<br />
at your own peril) among the Lithuanians, and as well as<br />
one or two specialist clubs in Vilnius, it’s possible to find<br />
the game being played every evening in a few bars.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
���������<br />
�������������������<br />
���������������������<br />
�� ��������������������������������������������������������<br />
�� �������������������������������������������������������<br />
�����������������������������������<br />
�� ���������������������������������������������<br />
���������������������<br />
Ozo St. 14C, Vilnius; info@vandensparkas.lt;<br />
���������������������
92 Business direCtory<br />
Banks<br />
SEB Bankas C-4, Vokiečių 9, tel. 1528.<br />
Accountants<br />
Financial Services Center<br />
B-1, Ž. Liauksmino 3, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 262 05 34, fax<br />
(+370) 5 262 05 35, info@fscenter.lt, www.fscenter.<br />
lt. Accounting services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Business connections<br />
American Chamber of Commerce H-3, Konstitucijos<br />
7, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 81.<br />
Association of Lithuanian Chambers of Commerce,<br />
<strong>In</strong>dustry & Crafts G-3, Vašingtono 1/63a,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 261 21 02.<br />
British Chamber of Commerce C-3/4, Didžioji 5,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 269 00 62.<br />
European Business Network P.O. Box 1125, tel.<br />
(+370) 671 811 57.<br />
<strong>In</strong>vest Lithuania (<strong>In</strong>vestuok Lietuvoje) C-3, Jogailos<br />
4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38.<br />
Vilnius Chamber of Commerce, <strong>In</strong>dustry and<br />
Crafts G/H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 5 213 55 50.<br />
Consumer rights<br />
European Consumer Centre (Europos Vartotojų<br />
Centras) B-2, Odminių 12, tel. (+370) 5 265 03 68.<br />
Coworking<br />
Hub Vilnius B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 615 331<br />
56.<br />
European Commission<br />
European Commission A-4, Naugarduko 10, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 231 31 91.<br />
European Commission <strong>In</strong>formation Centre A-4,<br />
Naugarduko 10, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 83.<br />
Foreign representations<br />
Armenia F-3, Lenktoji 17, tel. (+370) 5 207 50 40.<br />
Australia (Consulate) B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370)<br />
5 212 33 69.<br />
Austria C-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80.<br />
Azerbaijan G-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 219 56 01.<br />
Belarus Muitinės 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55.<br />
Belgium A-3, K. Kalinausko 2b, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 20.<br />
Canada A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50.<br />
China H-5, Algirdo 36, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 62.<br />
Čilė (Consulate) A-1, A. Jakšto 11, tel. (+370) 5 260<br />
89 19.<br />
Czech Republic F-3, Birutės 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 10<br />
54.<br />
Denmark J-3, T. Kosciuškos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87 60.<br />
Estonia F-3, A. Mickevičiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02<br />
00.<br />
Finland G-4, K. Kalinausko 24 (2nd floor), tel. (+370)<br />
5 266 80 10.<br />
France C-3, Švarco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00.<br />
Georgia F-3, D. Poškos 13, tel. (+370) 5 273 69 59.<br />
Germany G-4, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 5 210<br />
64 00.<br />
Greece C-4, Didžioji 33/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26.<br />
Hungary A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38.<br />
Iceland (Consulate) F-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel. (+370)<br />
5 215 05 75.<br />
Ireland C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 60.<br />
Italy F/G-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20.<br />
Japan F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04<br />
62.<br />
Kazakhstan F-3, Birutės 20a/35, tel. (+370) 5 212<br />
21 23.<br />
Kyrgyzstan (Consulate) P. Lukšio 16-247, tel. (+370)<br />
687 471 72.<br />
Latvia F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12 60.<br />
Malta (Consulate) C-4/5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370)<br />
5 251 44 91.<br />
Moldova F-2, Miglos 61a, tel. (+370) 5 260 79 14.<br />
Netherlands A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 72.<br />
Norway A-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd floor), tel. (+370)<br />
5 261 00 00.<br />
Philippines (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 4 (B corps), tel.<br />
(+370) 5 212 00 33.<br />
Poland J-2, Smėlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 270 90 01.<br />
Romania G-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05 57.<br />
Russia F-3, Latvių 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 17 63.<br />
Spain G-4, Algirdo 4, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61.<br />
Sweden C-4, Didžioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10.<br />
Thailand (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370)<br />
5 268 18 92.<br />
Turkey C-4, Didžioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 70.<br />
UK J-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00.<br />
Ukraine A-3, Teatro 4, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 82.<br />
USA G-4, Akmenų 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00.<br />
Vatican H-4, T. Kosciuškos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 96.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terpreters<br />
balTICK Language Services D-2, Bernardinų 9-4,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 24.<br />
Lawyers<br />
Sabaliauskas ir Partneriai B-1, Ž. Liauksmino 3, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 212 42 44.<br />
Lithuanian officials<br />
Department of Customs (Muitinės Departamentas)<br />
H-3, A. Jakšto 1/25, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 27.<br />
Government (LR Vyriausybė) B-1, Gedimino 11, tel.<br />
(+370) 706 638 46.<br />
Ministry of Foreign Affairs (LR Užsienio Reikalų<br />
Ministerija) G-3, J. Tumo-Vaižganto 2, tel. (+370) 5<br />
236 24 44.<br />
Municipality (Savivaldybė) B-1, Konstitucijos 3, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 211 20 00.<br />
Parliament (LR Seimas) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel.<br />
(+370) 5 239 60 60.<br />
President’s Office (LR Prezidento Rūmai) C-2, S.<br />
Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 706 641 54.<br />
Notaries<br />
Vilniaus m. 2-asis Notarų Biuras C-2, Tilto 15/7,<br />
tel. (+370) 5 231 46 83.<br />
Office rental<br />
Start Office A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 69.<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
94 street register<br />
All of the venues in this<br />
guidebook marked with<br />
an Old Town symbol (J)<br />
are featured as such<br />
because even if they’re<br />
not in Old Town per se,<br />
they are at least on the<br />
map opposite which we<br />
call Old Town. Confused?<br />
Don’t be.<br />
Aguonų A-4/6<br />
A. Jakšto A-1<br />
Alkūnės D-6<br />
Arklių C-4/5<br />
Arsenalo C/D-1<br />
A. Smetonos A-1/2<br />
A. Strazdelio D-5<br />
A. Stulginskio A-2/1<br />
Ašmenos B-4<br />
Augustijonų C-4<br />
Aukštaičių D-4<br />
Aušros Vartų C-5/6<br />
A. Volano D-3<br />
Bazilijonų C/D-5<br />
Beatričės A1<br />
Benediktinių B-3<br />
Bernardinų C-2/D-3<br />
Bokšto C-3/D-5<br />
B. Radvilaitės C/D-2<br />
Didžioji C-3/4<br />
Dominikonų B/C-3<br />
Dysnos B-4<br />
Etmonų C-4<br />
Gaono C-3<br />
Gedimino A-1/D-2<br />
Geležinkelio C-6<br />
Gėlių B-5<br />
Islandijos A-2<br />
Išganytojo C/D-3<br />
J. Basanavičiaus A-3/4<br />
J. Jablonskio A-5/6<br />
J. Lelevelio A/B-1<br />
Jogailos A-1/2<br />
Karmelitų C-4/5<br />
Kaštonų A1<br />
Kauno A/B-6<br />
Kėdainių A/B-4<br />
K. Griniaus A-2<br />
K. Kalinausko A-3<br />
Klaipėdos A/B-3<br />
Kruopų B-5<br />
K. Sirvydo B-1<br />
K. Škirpos D-1/2<br />
Kūdrų D-4<br />
K. Vanagėlio D-5<br />
Labdarių B-2<br />
Lapų C-5/6<br />
Latako C/D-3<br />
Liejyklos B-2/3<br />
Liepkalnio D-6<br />
Ligoninės B-4/5<br />
Literatų C/D-3<br />
Lydos B-4<br />
L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus<br />
B/C-2<br />
M. Antokolskio C-3/4<br />
Maironio D-2/4<br />
Malūnų D-3<br />
M. Daukšos D-5<br />
Mėsinių B-5/C-4<br />
Mindaugo A-4/6<br />
Naručio D-6<br />
Naugarduko A-4/5<br />
Odminių B-2<br />
Palangos A-3<br />
Pamėnkalnio A-2<br />
Pasažo C-5<br />
Paupio D-3<br />
Pelesos C/D-6<br />
Pilies C-2/3<br />
Plačioji B-5<br />
Pranciškonų B-3/4<br />
Punsko A-6<br />
Pylimo A-2/C-6<br />
Radvilų B-1<br />
Raugyklos A-6/B-5<br />
Rožių A-3/2<br />
Rusų C/D-3<br />
Rūdninkų B-5/C-4<br />
Savičiaus C-4<br />
Seinų B/C-6<br />
Sodų B-5/6<br />
S. Skapo C-2<br />
Stiklių C-3/4<br />
Stoties B-6<br />
Subačiaus C/D-5<br />
Šaltinių A/B-5<br />
Šermukšnių A1<br />
Šiaulių B-4<br />
Šiltadaržio D-2<br />
Švarco C-3<br />
Šventaragio C-2<br />
Šv. Dvasios D-5<br />
Šv. Ignoto B-3<br />
Šv. Jono C-3<br />
Šv. Kazimiero C/D-4<br />
Šv. Mikalojaus B-4<br />
Šv. Mykolo C/D-3<br />
Šv. Stepono A-6/B-5<br />
Teatro A-3<br />
Tilto B-1/C-2<br />
Totorių B-2/3<br />
Trakų A-4/B-3<br />
Turgelių D-6<br />
T. Vrublevskio C-1<br />
Universiteto C-2/3<br />
Užupio D-3<br />
Vienuolio A1<br />
Vilniaus B-1/3<br />
Vingrių A/B-4<br />
Visų Šventųjų B/C-5<br />
Vokiečių B-3/C-4<br />
V. Šopeno B-6<br />
Žemaitijos B-4<br />
Žiupronių D-5<br />
Ž. Liauksmino B-1/C-2<br />
Žydų B-4/C-3<br />
Žygimantų B/C-1<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com
98 index<br />
AAA Mano Liza 18<br />
Academy 13<br />
A Hostel 22<br />
A ir B Mackevičių<br />
Odontologijos Klinika 88<br />
AJ Šokoladas 80<br />
Akademinė Knyga 77<br />
Akropolio Blusų Turgus 74<br />
Akropolis 74<br />
Alaus Studija 44<br />
Alchemikas 48<br />
Alexa 18<br />
Algirdas City Hotels 19<br />
Amatininkų Užeiga 44<br />
Amatų Gildija 13<br />
Ambassador 20<br />
Amber 76<br />
Amber Massage SPA 86<br />
Amber Museum-Gallery 76<br />
Amberton Hotel 16<br />
Amber Tours 71<br />
Ameda 21<br />
American Center 15<br />
American <strong>In</strong>ternational School<br />
of Vilnius 85<br />
Antakalnis Cemetery 66<br />
Apartments Domus247 23<br />
Apia Hotel 19<br />
Applied Arts Museum 56<br />
Ararat 27<br />
Archaeology Museum 56<br />
Armenia 92<br />
Artis Centrum Hotels 16<br />
Arts Printing House 14<br />
Astrida 64<br />
Atrium 16<br />
Auksinis Trikampis 23<br />
Aukso Avis 82<br />
Aula 24<br />
Aušlavis 89<br />
Aušros Vartų Meno Galerija 82<br />
Austrian Gourmet & Bistro 81<br />
Aux Champs - Elysées 29<br />
Avalynės Taisykla 86<br />
Ayurvedic SPA Centre<br />
Shanti 86<br />
Azia Spa 86<br />
Baku-Ceyhan 39<br />
Baltic-American Clinic 88<br />
balTICK Language<br />
Services 92<br />
Baltic Times 87<br />
Baltic Travel Service<br />
Lufthansa City Center 64, 71<br />
Balti Drambliai 43<br />
Balzac 29<br />
Bambalynė 49<br />
Barbacan Apartments 19<br />
BBC World Service 87<br />
Beata Amber 76<br />
Beauty <strong>In</strong>stitute 84<br />
Berlin 48<br />
Bernardine Cemetery 66<br />
Bernardine Church &<br />
Monastery 58<br />
Bernardinų B&B House 21<br />
Best Western Vilnius 17<br />
Biosala 81<br />
Bistro 18 31<br />
Bitė 73<br />
Bitinėlis 83<br />
Blusynė Lounge 48<br />
BNS 87<br />
Bokšto Vartai 28<br />
Boulingo Klubas 90<br />
Boutique of Various Things 83<br />
BPC Travel 71<br />
British Council 15<br />
Brodvėjus 47<br />
Budget 69<br />
Bunte Gans 30<br />
Buses 68<br />
Būsi Trečias 49<br />
Bus Station 69<br />
By train 6<br />
CAC Reading Room 86<br />
Čaichana 42<br />
California Gourmet 28<br />
California Tapas & Wine 42<br />
Castle & Trakai History<br />
Museum 65<br />
Cathedral-Basilica of St.<br />
Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus 59<br />
Central Post Office 73<br />
Centre for Tolerance 67<br />
Centre of Europe 61<br />
Centro Kubas - Angel 19<br />
C Gates 84<br />
Chabad Lubavitch Centre 67<br />
Charlie Pizza 41<br />
China 92<br />
Choral Synagogue 67<br />
Church Heritage Museum 56<br />
Church of Sts. Michael &<br />
Constantine 58<br />
Church of the Holy Cross 58<br />
Church of the Holy Mother<br />
of God 58<br />
Čili Pica 41<br />
Citadele 84<br />
City Gate 19<br />
Cocainn 47<br />
Collectors' Club 74<br />
Come to Vilnius 22<br />
Comfort Hotel Lt 19<br />
Comfort Vilnius 19<br />
Communicable Diseases &<br />
AIDS Centre 88<br />
Congress 17<br />
Contemporary Arts Centre 13<br />
Conti 17<br />
Corner Hotel 21<br />
Cosmic Bowling 90<br />
Cozy 31<br />
Crowne Plaza Vilnius 17<br />
Da Antonio 36<br />
Daiktų Viešbutis 83<br />
Danish Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute 15<br />
Dawn Gate 61<br />
DD Projects 84<br />
De' Žavu 83<br />
DHL 73<br />
Didysis Pegasas 77<br />
Didžioji Krautuvė 81<br />
Diugonis 90<br />
Dolls 53<br />
Domino Theatre 14<br />
Domus Maria 19<br />
Drakono Ženklas 86<br />
Draugystė 77<br />
Druskos Namai 32<br />
Dvaras 17<br />
Dviratis Tau 83<br />
Eastanbul 81<br />
East Island Exotic 86<br />
Eat East 27<br />
Ecotel Vilnius 21<br />
Eden Club 53<br />
El Gaucho Sano 27<br />
EMS 73<br />
Entry 44<br />
Esse 32<br />
Estonia 92<br />
Eugenijus Apartments 23<br />
Europa 74<br />
Europa City Vilnius 20<br />
Europa Royale Vilnius 17<br />
Europa Stay Vilnius 20<br />
Europos Parkas 62<br />
Eurovaistinė 89<br />
Exotic Spa 87<br />
Exotic Spa Morocco 87<br />
Fabra Ars 77<br />
Fertility Centre 88<br />
Fertility Clinic 88<br />
Figaro 84<br />
Filaretai 22<br />
Financial Services Center 92<br />
Fiorentino 36<br />
Flower Market 80<br />
Force One 90<br />
Fortas 44<br />
Forto Dvaras 25<br />
Forum Cinemas Vingis 13<br />
Forum Sports Club 90<br />
Fototechnika 82<br />
France 92<br />
Franciscan Church 59<br />
Franko 84<br />
Frank Zappa 64<br />
Free Ball 90<br />
French Bookshop Pegasas 77<br />
French <strong>In</strong>stitute 15<br />
French <strong>In</strong>ternational School 85<br />
Gatineau 84<br />
Gediminas Castle &<br />
Museum 56<br />
Gedimino 9 74<br />
Gedimino Vaistinė 89<br />
Gėlės ir Manufaktūra 80<br />
Genocide Victims' Museum 56<br />
Georgia 92<br />
Germany 92<br />
Gidenta 88<br />
Gimme 42<br />
Gintraka 82<br />
Goethe <strong>In</strong>stitute 15<br />
Golf City 83<br />
Gourmet Delicafe 81<br />
Gourmet Pizza 41<br />
Government 92<br />
Graf Zeppelin 25<br />
Grand Duke Gediminas 64<br />
Green Bridge 62<br />
Green Vilnius Hotel 20<br />
Grill Brazil 27<br />
Grill <strong>In</strong>n 32<br />
Gringo 44<br />
Grotthuss 17<br />
Gyvo Alaus Krautuvėlė 81<br />
Halės Market 76<br />
Hash House Harriers 90<br />
Hill of Three Crosses 62<br />
Holiday <strong>In</strong>n 18<br />
Holy Miko's 32<br />
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian<br />
Gate 59<br />
Humanitas 80<br />
iDeal Solution 80<br />
Idzumi Spa 87<br />
IKI 81<br />
IKI Commercial Centre 74<br />
Iki Express 81<br />
Impuls Plus 90<br />
IMuzika 82<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian Maharaja 31<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation Bureau 85<br />
<strong>In</strong>vest Lithuania 92<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> 87<br />
Ireland 92<br />
Italian Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute 15<br />
Jalta 32<br />
Japan 92<br />
Jaunimo Perspektyva 86<br />
Jewelry Art Studio 14<br />
Jewish Community of<br />
Lithuania 67<br />
Joga Visiems 87<br />
Joglė 84<br />
Jonas Bugailiškis Art Studio 13<br />
Julia Janus 82<br />
Julija Fashion House 82<br />
Kalnų Parkas 66<br />
Kalvarijų Market 76<br />
Kardiolita 89<br />
Katpėdėlė 25<br />
Kazakhstan 92<br />
Keisti Ženklai 25<br />
Kelionių Panorama 71<br />
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral<br />
Square 16<br />
Kenesa 62<br />
KFC 40<br />
Kibin <strong>In</strong>n 39<br />
Kino Studija 84<br />
Kitchen 33<br />
Kodak ProCentras 86<br />
Koldūninė 25<br />
Komisas 83<br />
Krantas Travel 71<br />
La Bohème 49<br />
Labuki 37<br />
La Crepe 40<br />
Laisvės Turas 83<br />
La Pergola 33<br />
La Provence 28<br />
Lauro Lapas 34<br />
Lazdynų Pelėda 64<br />
Leičiai 45<br />
Lėlė Puppet Theatre 14<br />
Linen & Amber Studio 82<br />
Lingua Lituanica 85<br />
Lino Kopos 82<br />
Lino Namai 82<br />
Literatų Gatvė 62<br />
Lithuanian Central Registry<br />
Archive 85<br />
Lithuanian Central State<br />
Archive 85<br />
Lithuanian Holidays 64<br />
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar<br />
Cemetery 66<br />
Lithuanian Music & Theatre<br />
Academy 13<br />
Lithuanian National Drama<br />
Theatre 14<br />
Lithuanian National Opera &<br />
Ballet Theatre 14<br />
Lithuanian National<br />
Philharmonic 13<br />
Lithuanian Tours 71<br />
Lithuania Tribune 87<br />
Litinterp Guest House 22<br />
Lux Express 69<br />
Mabre Residence 18<br />
Mamma Mia 81<br />
Mano Guru 41<br />
Mano Lietuviški Namai 82<br />
Map of the Ghetto 67<br />
Marceliukės Klėtis 26<br />
Marks & Spencer 80<br />
Markus ir Ko 42<br />
Matrix 84<br />
McDonald's 40<br />
Meat Lovers Pub 42<br />
Medininkai 34<br />
Meno Fortas 14<br />
Meno Niša 13<br />
Menų Fabrikas 14<br />
Mikotel 21<br />
Mimoza/Vinchenso 49<br />
Mindaugas 64<br />
Minibuses 68<br />
Mint Vinetu 80<br />
Miyako 37<br />
M. K. Čiurlionis' House 62<br />
Mersera 68<br />
Mojitos 48<br />
Molio Laumė 13<br />
Money Museum 57<br />
Multikino 13<br />
Municipality 92<br />
Narutis Restaurant 28<br />
National Art Gallery 57<br />
National Museum 57<br />
National Youth Theatre 15<br />
Neringa 18, 34<br />
Nesė Casino 53<br />
New York 52<br />
Northway Medical Center 89<br />
Notre Vie 49<br />
Novana 89<br />
Novotel Vilnius Centre 18<br />
Odontika 88<br />
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre 15<br />
Old Town Hostel 23<br />
Old Town Strip Club 53<br />
Omnitel 73<br />
Ona 83<br />
Operos Vaistinė 89<br />
Opium 47<br />
Optometrijos Centras 89<br />
Oreivystės Centras 64, 90<br />
Orthodox Church of St.<br />
Paraskeva 59<br />
Orthodox Church of the Holy<br />
Spirit 60<br />
Osteria da Luca 36<br />
Ozas 74<br />
Pabo Latino 47<br />
Paneriai Memorial Museum 67<br />
Panorama 74<br />
Pantera 48<br />
Paparazzi 48<br />
Paradise 53<br />
Paradizė 86<br />
Park <strong>In</strong>n Vilnius North 20<br />
Park Villa 18<br />
Pasaka 13<br />
Paupio Namai 22<br />
Piano.lt 13<br />
Piano Man 45<br />
Pizza Hut Express 41<br />
Pogo Hostel 23<br />
Pomodoro 41<br />
Ponių Laimė 31<br />
Pramogų Arena 13<br />
Prie Katedros 34<br />
Prospekto Galerija 14<br />
Prosport 83<br />
Radisson Blu Astorija 16<br />
Ragainė 83<br />
Raktinė 85<br />
Raktų Centras 85<br />
Ramada Hotel & Suites<br />
Vilnius 16<br />
Rasos Cemetery 66<br />
Raw42 43<br />
Raw Raw 43<br />
Reformed Evangelical<br />
Church 60<br />
Rega 89<br />
Registry 85<br />
Reinis The Cook 39<br />
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai<br />
Hotel 16<br />
Rentida Apartments 23<br />
Rib Room 35<br />
Rimas 69<br />
Rimi Hypermarket 74<br />
Rinno 20<br />
Riverside 35<br />
Roast & Beer Pub 35<br />
Romania 92<br />
Rūdninkų Knygynas 80, 83<br />
Rūdninkų Vartai 21<br />
Russia 92<br />
Rūta 81<br />
Ryanair 71<br />
Salentino Café 33<br />
Salento DiscoPub 47<br />
Šarūnas 18<br />
Saulės Gojus 85<br />
Saulės Namai 21<br />
Sauluva 82<br />
Savas Kampas 49<br />
Senamiesčio Gidas 71<br />
Senamiesčio Krautuvė 81<br />
Senasis Kuparas 77<br />
Senatoriai 20<br />
Senoji Pasaga 26<br />
Sensus Grill & Wine 35<br />
Sensus Terasa 44<br />
Senukai 82<br />
Shakespeare Boutique<br />
Hotel 18<br />
Shanti 38<br />
Shooters 48<br />
Siemens Arena 13<br />
Sixt 69<br />
Skalbiu Sau 84<br />
Skalvija 13<br />
Skin & Laser Surgery<br />
Center 89<br />
Skonio Studija 81<br />
ŠMC 45<br />
Šnekutis 49<br />
Sofa de Pancho 40<br />
Soho 52<br />
Sonnets 35<br />
Sostinės Turgus 76<br />
Souvenir Market 76<br />
Spa Centre East Island 87<br />
Spain 92<br />
Sportas ir Mada 83<br />
Sriubos Namai 42<br />
St. Anne's Church 60<br />
Start FM 87<br />
Stasys Apartments 23<br />
St. Casimir's Church 60<br />
St. Catherine's Church 13<br />
Steak House Hazienda 42<br />
Stiklių Dvaras 19<br />
St. Nicholas' Church 60<br />
Sts. Johns' Church 60<br />
St. Theresa's Church 61<br />
Studio 9 38<br />
Šturmų Švyturio Žuvys 81<br />
Submarine 41<br />
Sue's <strong>In</strong>dian Raja 31<br />
Sulčius 38<br />
Sura 39<br />
Sveiki Produktai 81<br />
Šviežia Kava 33<br />
TaDas 14<br />
Tamsta 52<br />
Tappo D'oro 49<br />
Taškas 73<br />
Tautodailininko Dirbtuvė 13<br />
Television Tower 63<br />
Terra Eldorado 30<br />
Terra Recognita 14<br />
Thailand 92<br />
The Beautiful Land Of<br />
Nevermind 71<br />
Thelonious 83<br />
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred<br />
Boutique 16, 90<br />
The Notebook Shop 80<br />
Thierry Kepykla 26<br />
Tiflisi-Dukani 30<br />
Titanikas 14<br />
TNT 73<br />
Tores 35<br />
Town Hall 63<br />
Train Station 69<br />
Transilvanija 45<br />
Tres Mexicanos 40<br />
Tymo Turgus 76<br />
Ūkio Banko Teatro Arena 13<br />
Universiteto Vaistinė 89<br />
Uzbekistanas 43<br />
Užupio Galerija 13<br />
Užupio Kalvystės Galerija -<br />
Muziejus 13<br />
Užupio Krautuvė 82<br />
Užupio Meno <strong>In</strong>kubatorius 14<br />
Užupis Angel 65<br />
Vaga 80<br />
Vapiano 37<br />
Vartai 14<br />
Vasaros Terasa 44<br />
Vatican 92<br />
VCUP 74<br />
Vegafé 43<br />
VeloCity Tours & Rent 71<br />
Veloklinika.lt 71<br />
Veranda 36<br />
Vichy Aqua Park 90<br />
Vienuolyno Kiemas 44<br />
Vieta 43<br />
Vilbra Foto 82<br />
Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija 14<br />
Vilnius Antiques Centre 77<br />
Vilnius Apartments 23<br />
Vilnius City Tour 64<br />
Vilnius Congress Hall 13<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport 70<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong>ternational School 85<br />
Vilnius Montessori<br />
pre-School 85<br />
Vilnius Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation 7<br />
Vilnius University 64<br />
Vilnius University Hospital 88<br />
Vilnius Youth Tourist<br />
Centre 23<br />
ViniusTransfer.com 69<br />
Visit Lithuania 71<br />
Wok & Roll 27<br />
Yurga 82<br />
Žemaičiai 26<br />
Žemaitė 65<br />
Znad Wilii 14<br />
Zoe's Bar & Grill 36<br />
Žuvinė 34<br />
Vilnius <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> vilnius.inyourpocket.com