VILNIUS - In Your Pocket

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VILNIUS
August - November 2012
20
Europe’s best city
guides for more than
20 years
Inside
A fully updated, impartial scrutiny
of the best things Vilnius has to
offer visitors for the next four months
Plus
Things to see and do in
Keturiasdešimt Totorių

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Arriving in Vilnius 6
Because it’s not as easy as you think
Basics 6
A quick cultural primer
History 9
A mind-boggling millennium
Events 9
Just the ticket
Culture 13
Art, ballet, cinema, photography and more
Where to stay 16
A bed for all budgets
Dining & Nightlife
Restaurants 24
From cepelinai to sushi
Visit the strange and beautiful past of Lithuania’s Islamic
heritage in the tiny village of Keturiasdešimt Totorių some
20km south of Vilnius. Find everything you need to know
on p.61.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Live music at Vienuolyno Kiemas.
Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, who’ve finally realised
the potential of the city centre’s empty spaces and
consequently stuffed great big outdoor bars in several of
them. This may seem somewhat passé to many a reader,
but for the locals it’s literally a breath of fresh air. Find a
selection of the most interesting on p.44
Cafés 33
Where to find the best espresso
Nightlife
Beer, clubs and a little bit of nakedness
44
Sightseeing
A fully comprehensive guide
54
Getting around
When walking isn’t enough
68
Mail & Phones
Directory
73
Shopping 74
Lifestyle 84
Health 88
Sport & Leisure 90
Business
Maps & Index
92
Country map 93
Street register 94
City centre map 95
City map 96
Index 98
August - November 2012
3

4 Foreword
As we go to press at the end of July the Gulf Stream
continues to act like a spoilt child, refusing to
share its toys and generally making a mockery
of the word summer. On behalf of Mother Nature,
Vilnius In Your Pocket would like to apologise for
the gross inconvenience caused so far this year.
Every cloud has a silver lining however, and the
good news is that not only are you now reading a
fully updated guide to everything you need to know
about Vilnius for the next four months, the weather
is set to improve, making the city’s glorious parks
and gardens (see p.65) more tempting than ever.
For those who need more from their lives than
eating, drinking and chasing girls, we’ve also
cobbled together a small feature about the tiny
rural village of Keturiasdešimt Totorių (see p.61),
where the residents once wrote Belarusian using
the Arabic script and that still boasts a marvellous
little mosque and cemetery. And you thought Vilnius
was Lithuanian. Think again! Have a smashing
time in Vilnius everyone, be good and come back
soon. Enjoy the rest of the summer and the rest
of this guide. Vilnius In Your Pocket welcomes all
comments, suggestions, death threats, marriage
proposals and anything else you can throw at us
as usual. Write to us at vilnius.inyourpocket.com
and see you again in December.
Cover story
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Vilnius In Your Pocket
Bernardinų 9-4
Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01124
mob. (+370) 610 468 64
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76
fax (+370) 5 212 29 82
vilnius@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1392-0057
©UAB “VIYP”
Printed by UAB “Lietuvos ryto”
spaustuvė
Published three times per year
Print run 20,000
Two tourists snapping images
of the Cathedral-Basilica
of St. Stanislaus & St.
Ladislaus. Read about other
famous and not-so famous
things to see and visit in
our What to see section
on p.54.
Editorial
Editor Sco
Research Vaida Kursevičiūtė
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė
Cover Richard Schofield
Sales & Circulation
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
General Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė
Accounting VšĮ “ACORDO”
Sales Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė
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6 BasiCs
Arriving in Vilnius
Buy a print copy of Vilnius In Your Pocket inside the
airport, bus and train station for just 6Lt. If you’re coming
into the city by public transport, see the information about
major changes to the ticket system in the city on p.68.
By bus Vilnius’ rather dreary bus station (autobusų stotis)
is located less than 1km south of Old Town in a less than
salubrious, albeit perfectly safe area. Not really geared up
for foreign arrivals, most facilities are located inside one
grey building and include kiosks and shops selling maps,
cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, downstairs
toilets (1Lt) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency exchange,
use the Citadele bank across the street inside the train
station. A bagažinė for left luggage is located at the far end
of the platforms. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few
minutes by turning left on exiting the station and walking
down Sodų. Many buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can
be found in the immediate area, all going off in different
directions around the city. Among the useful trolleybuses
going through the city centre are Nº2 and 5. Buy a ticket
from the driver for 2.50Lt. Taxis are parked up in a number
of places. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave.
Expect to pay 20Lt or even more for a short trip to Old
Town. Calling one in advance is the best option.
By plane Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus
Oro Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if
you’re landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities
are quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting
your luggage find a compact arrivals hall complete with a
kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile
phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange offices and a small
tourist information kiosk (Open 09:00 – 21:00). Toilets are
to the right, and car rental companies to the left. Getting
to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked
outside the arrivals terminal will cost about 80Lt. Calling
one in advance will cost considerably less. If you don’t
know how to do it yourself ask the people in the tourist
information kiosk to order one for you. If you’re travelling to
the centre and don’t mind roughing it with the locals, save
a small fortune and take public transport. The bus stop
is to the left of the taxi stand. Bus Nº1 goes to the train
station and bus Nº2 to Lukiškių Aikštė and north over the
river past the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. A timetable is
posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt.
Alternatively, hop on a train and in less than 10 minutes
be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket
on board for just 2Lt. The airport train station can be found
along the road outside the main exit and on the left. Trains
leave every hour or so from around 06:00 until 21:30, with
a journey time of just seven minutes.
By train The train station (geležinkelio stotis) is fairly
large by local standards and unfortunately not very well
signposted in English. Find kiosks and shops for snacks,
maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scattered
in and around the building, free toilets downstairs,
ATM’s and a 24-hour Citadele bank outside to the left for
changing money. The train station also has a small tourist
information kiosk, which among other things features
friendly staff who speak English. Getting to town Get
to Old Town in a few minutes by going straight ahead
on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sodų).
The train station is just across the street from the bus
station. See By bus for more information about getting
to the centre by public transport.
Exchange rates
€1=3.45Lt £1=4.39Lt US$1=2.84Lt
Alcohol
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light,
crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and
you’re recommended to test a few before settling on a
regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the
magnificent Švyturys from Klaipėda, Utenos from Utena and
Kalnapilis from Panevėžys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius can’t
claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made in the
capital you’ll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see Nightlife).
Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than their
Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest
words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple of the
most lethal. In Old Town expect to pay somewhere in the
region of 5-10Lt for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtinė)
is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto
at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the
more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century Polish-
Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with
apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater,
samagonas, available through the right connections. Take
note that imported alcohol isn’t cheap. Don’t go falling into
the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is giveaway
everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid
an embarrassingly large bill at the end of the evening. At the
time of writing it was illegal to buy alcohol in shops between
22:00 and 08:00 anywhere in Lithuania, one of the country’s
more cynical pieces of legislation that does nothing except
penalise the country’s poor.
Borders
Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia,
Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the
ashes of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that
is Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements
have as good as removed all border formalities with
Latvia and Poland whilst getting in an out of Belarus and
Kaliningrad remains wrapped up in red tape for holders of
most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from the
Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius as well as
from a few travel agencies. Visas for Kaliningrad are now
available if you arrive there by air. For more information
about getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at
www.pasienis.lt.
Basic data
(July 26, 2012)
Population Lithuania 3,184,054 Vilnius 541,113
Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 83.7%
Poles 6.6% Russians 5.3% Belarusians 1.3% Ukrainians
0.6% Others 3.3%
Territory 65,303km 2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium,
and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest
distance is 276km, east to west is 373km
Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia
453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km
Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)
Largest lake Drūkščiai 4,479ha
Highest point Aukštasis 293.8m
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Crime & Safety
Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place
inside the clandestine world of business and politics and
consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor.
Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as
having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing
purses and mobile phones. Don’t leave valuables in unattended
pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting
robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did
anybody any harm, and you’re advised not to flaunt your wallet in
stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth
by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. Walk tall, look
like you know what you’re doing, and you won’t be troubled.
Green-uniformed police (policija) are supposed to be keeping
the peace in Old Town, although finding one when you need is
like looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack.
Customs
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import
restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to make
it known if they’re arriving with more than €10,000 worth of
cash. When arriving from non-EU countries you’re entitled
to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine or sixteen
litres of beer. If arriving by air you can bring 200 cigarettes,
100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, a figure that’s
drastically reduced to 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos, 10 cigars
or 50g of tobacco if arriving by any other means. You can’t
bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU except
under certain circumstances. You can’t arrive with live birds
other than pets for non-commercial purposes. Dogs require
vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination).
You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless
it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per
cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece and your
passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, Šnipiškių 3,
tel. (+370) 5 273 42 56. Many of the better antique shops in
Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more
detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for information
on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.
Disabled travellers
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over
the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to
get around on anything other than two well functioning
legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly are
often flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on
cobbled streets. Outside the capital, you’ll be lucky to find
Climate
The climate information below only gives an average
indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures often
plummet to below -20°C.
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
-10
-20
J
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Rainfall, mm
100
F M A M J J A S O
N
D
75
50
25
0
Tourist information
BasiCs
Vilnius Tourist Information
(Vilniaus Turizmo
Informacijos Centras ir
Konferencijų Biuras) B-2,
Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5
262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262
81 69, tic@vilnius.lt, www.
vilnius-tourism.lt. Tour bookings
for groups and individuals,
audio guides, Vilnius City Card, maps, tourist-related
publications, cultural events (www.vilnius-events.lt), taxi
and accommodation booking. English-, German-, Polish-
and Russian-speaking staff. See their extensive website
for more information. Also at Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), tel.
(+370) 5 262 64 70. Geležinkelio 16 (Train Station),
tel./fax (+370) 5 269 20 91. Šventaragio 2 (Cathedral
Square), Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Vilnius International Airport),
tel. (+370) 5 230 68 41. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. J
any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The
newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entries, spaces for
wheelchairs, and hearing loops.
Driving
The common or garden Lithuanian driver is notable for possessing
certain eccentric habits almost unheard of in the
West. A typical, edge-of-the-seat adventure sat beside a
local Lewis Hamilton comes with lashings of tailgating, cutting
lanes and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres. It comes as no
great surprise to non-Italian Westerners who’ve been in the
country for more than a couple of days to learn that Lithuania
has the highest rate of road fatalities in the European Union.
If you’re unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident in
which any material or personal damage occurs, you must
leave your vehicle exactly where it is, call the police (tel. 112)
and wait for them to arrive. Even if your car is obstructing the
flow of traffic, don’t move it until the police get there and have
danced about the wreckage with a tape measure and some
lollipops, drawn some little pictures, and given you the all-clear.
Not only is leaving the scene of an accident an offence, but the
lack of an official police report will give insurance companies
the excuse they’re looking for not to pay. Seat belts must be
worn and headlights must be on at all times while driving. All
vehicles must be fitted with a small fire extinguisher and carry
a first-aid kit, a reflective road-side warning triangle and a
reflective safety vest. You must have your vehicle registration
papers and licence with you at all times. During the winter, you’ll
also want to make sure you have an ice scraper and maybe
a brush for getting all the weather off your car before you set
off. Winter tyres are mandatory between November 10 and
April 10. In and around town the speed limit is 50km/h unless
indicated otherwise. Elsewhere you can drive at 90km/h on
asphalt roads and 70km/h on dirt roads, and on highways
you can drive at 130km/h until November 1, when you’ll have
to stick to 110km/h.
Electricity
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls
at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round
two-pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still
exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the
plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should
bring an appropriate adaptor, as they’re almost impossible
to find in Lithuania.
August - November 2012
7

8 BasiCs
Language
Lithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the
oldest still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is
supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing
many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With
seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutely
no similarity to anything you’ve ever heard before and
an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in
the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being
understood, getting to grips with the local lingo is at best
tough although there is the advantage when learning it
that it’s bound by rules that simply need to be learnt by
rote. Thankfully, most places where tourists congregate in
the country are now fairly English-friendly, plus Lithuania’s
rich cultural past has left an accumulation of polyglots
nationwide, with Russian spoken almost everywhere,
Polish in and around the capital and German the closer
you get to the coast.
Local time
Lithuania is in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone at
GMT+2hrs. When it’s 12:00 in Vilnius it’s 05:00 in New York,
10:00 in London, 11:00 in Warsaw, 13:00 in Moscow and
19:00 in Tokyo. Eastern European Summer Time (EEST,
GMT+3hrs) falls between the last Sundays of March and
October respectively.
Money & Costs
The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which
comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt
and 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a number of
weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/centų
coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt
to €1. Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept
major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to
any foreigner with money in their account. If you’re planning
a trip to the countryside however, make sure you take plenty
of cash along as it can still be rather old fashioned to say
the least. Vilnius is no longer the cheap city for foreigners
it used to be, although it still offers value to most visitors
from the West. A good night out for two in Vilnius’ Old Town
including a meal in a posh restaurant followed by drinks
in a bar and a club to finish off won’t leave you with much
change, if any change at all, from €100. Most prices have
rocketed of late, although short-term accommodation is still
extremely good value.
Religion
Contemporary Lithuania is a predominantly Catholic country
with almost 80 per cent of the population pledging allegiance
to the Pope. Pagan Lithuanians avoided Christianity until
relatively late in European history, finally converting for
political reasons in 1387 in the eastern half of the country
and in 1413 in the west. The country’s pagan heritage can
still be seen in many aspects of life including the days of
the week (literally First Day, Second Day etc.), the continued
naming of its female population after flowers and plants and
the countless festivals throughout the year that remain very
much as they were before the coming of Christianity. The area
that makes up contemporary Lithuania has historically been
the proud home of countless religions over the centuries,
among them Russian Orthodox, Protestantism, Islam and of
course Judaism, of which the former makes up the second
largest population at just under five per cent. It’s considered
polite for men to remove their hats and women to cover their
shoulders when visiting a Catholic church.
National holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day & National Flag Day
February 16 Independence Day
March 11 Restoration of Independence Day
March 31 (2013) Easter Sunday (Catholic)
April 1 (2013) Easter Monday (Catholic)
May 1 A day off for the workers!
May 5 (2013) Mothers’ Day
June 24 Joninės, or Midsummer
July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas
August 15 Žolinė (Assumption)
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)
Service
Anyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed
in Lithuanian life can’t fail to notice just how extraordinarily
indifferent if not just plain rude some public servants can
be. From the middle-aged lady in the post office to the
waitress in the expensive restaurant you’re dining in, don’t
be surprised to get no eye contact, and if you do get eye
contact, don’t be too surprised either to watch those eyes
roll with utter contempt. Even the ever-increasing examples
of friendly service here often come with an ineptitude of
mammoth proportions, so, if you’re sensitive to these things
be prepared to bite your lip and suffer. If there’s a culprit at
work then it’s surely management, from the mandarins who
oversee the large state organisations to the bar owners who
can’t be bothered to train their staff.
Smoking
If it’s Lithuanian and it’s got a lung that works then it probably
smokes. Many popular international cigarette brands are
readily available, and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and
cigarette papers are also reasonably well represented.
Compared to somewhere like the UK, cigarettes in Lithuania
are ridiculously cheap. Lithuania’s pipe-smoking former
Prime Minister Gediminas Kirkilas not so long ago forgot
to remember that smoking is banned in all cafés, bars,
restaurants, and clubs. He should have checked our listings
for venues with special smoking rooms and avoided a
1,000Lt fine.
Toilets
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (where’s the
toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you
use their facilities, although some have started to enforce
a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few
non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with
plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone
by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest
establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next
to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.
Visas
Lithuania is a member of the European Union and the
Schengen area. Visitors from the EU as well as from 30 or
so other countries including Australia, Canada, Japan, New
Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States
don’t require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six
month period. A visa issued for any Schengen country is
also valid in Lithuania. For more information, take a look
at www.urm.lt.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter
the religious fervour of crusading German knights. Lithuania
was the last European country to convert to Christianity,
and has seen countless invasions and occupations over
the centuries.
7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish themselves
on what’s now known as Lithuanian territory.
11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written
texts in AD 1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built
on Vilnius’ Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the
construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it.
13th century Žemaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at
the Battle of Saulė in 1236, establishing the settlement
of Šiauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253
Mindaugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuania’s one
and only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign
of the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority
of the population remains pagan.
14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 1275-
1341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns,
inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius with
the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure peace, in
1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his daughter
Aldona to the Polish king’s son. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
comes into being with the 1387 Krėva Union,
whereby Gediminas’ grandson Jogaila (circa 1348-1434)
becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess Jadwiga
(circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security,
the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the
1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius.
15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated
on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led by
Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the Battle
of Grunwald (Lithuanian, Žalgiris. German, Tannenberg),
one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The country
flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic
to the Black Sea.
16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural
advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book
in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The
end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political
and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the
state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with Russia
and Sweden drain the Commonwealth’s resources.
18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish
and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795
Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year
Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short liberation
by Napoleon’s army in 1812 on his failed campaign
to Moscow. During the Napoleonic army’s return through
Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation
and extreme cold.
19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent
against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 November
Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution.
Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly
closed, the Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the
country named the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin
script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring
East Prussia. Another uprising takes place in 1863 and
General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to
restore order, resulting in deaths by hanging for most of the
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
20th century
history
leading activists. The repression is countered and defied by
a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. In 1883 Jonas
Basanavičius (1851-1927) publishes the first Lithuanianlanguage
newspaper, Auszra (Aušra, or Dawn).
Independence & Beyond
1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sąjūdis is
founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia,
advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August
23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th
anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.October 7 The
Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle.
1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially
commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000
Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human
chain stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to
protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop
Pact.
1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachev’s visit to Vilnius
is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence
demonstrators turn out to ‘welcome’ him. March 4 Proindependence
Sąjūdis candidates receive an overall majority
in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March
11 The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or
Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence
and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas
Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17
Moscow imposes an economic blockade.
During the WWI German
occupation of 1915-
1918 the Lithuanian
Council proclaims independence
on February
16, 1918. As the
Germans retreat, the
Lithuanian state comes
under attack by the Polish General Józef Piłsudski (1867-
1935) who seizes control of Vilnius and areas south of
it from1920-1939. Poland maintains control of these
areas by claiming they were a portion of the pre-war
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes
the interim capital of Lithuania until 1940. During the
inter-war period independent Lithuania prospers under
the 14-year dictatorship (1926-1940) of the nationalist
president Antanas Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian
independence ends with the clandestine signing on August
23, 1939 of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between
Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to
be controlled by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union.
Lithuania is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation.
Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian
henchmen organise the mass murder of over 200,000
Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population. The return of
the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into
the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of
some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task they’d already
begun in 1940 before the Nazis arrived. Lithuanian
partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miško Broliai),
wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of protest
against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19year-old
student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in
public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds.
August - November 2012
9

10 history
1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm
the parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the
delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to
reclaim the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people
are killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to
recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border
guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border
checkpoint by Soviet Special Forces. August 21The Moscow
putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings they’ve
occupied since January. Lenin’s statue is removed from
Vilnius’ Lukiškių Aikštė (Lukiškės Square). A photograph of
the event appears on the cover of Issue N°1 ofVilnius In Your
Pocket, published on May 1, 1992.August 29 Sweden
becomes the first Western country to open an embassy in
Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia
and Estonia. September 17 All three Baltic countries are
re-admitted into the UN.
1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own
flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928.
1993 June 25 Lithuania’s pre-war currency, the litas, is
re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves
Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits.
1994 December Vilnius’ Old Town joins the list of Unesco
World Heritage sites.
1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president.
Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official
at the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before
returning to Lithuania to run for president. December
21 Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to
international pressure from the EU.
21st century
2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting
various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas.
2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US
dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which
the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22
Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George
Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US
president to visit the city.
2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas
Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right wing
underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91%
of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote give a
resounding Yes to EU membership.
2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as
president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the
Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his
dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. April
2 Lithuania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and
the EU on May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus
is re-elected president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day
job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal at the
Athens Olympics in the discus. December 31 The Ignalina
Nuclear Power Plant says farewell to the first of its two
RBMK reactors.
2007 December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone,
allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen
countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and
Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia
radio station.
Historical names
The national poem of Poland
Pan Tadeusz (Lithuanian,
Ponas Tadas) by
the 19th-century Romantic
poet Adam Mickiewicz
(Lithuanian, Adomas
Mickevičius, pictured)
opens somewhat confusingly
with the words ‘Oh
Lithuania, my fatherland!’
The fact that the Polish
Mickiewicz referred to
Lithuania as his fatherland serves as a good example as
to just how linguistically — and ethnically — complicated
and bewildering things are in this corner of the world. Consequently
it should therefore come as no great surprise
to learn that the Grand Duchy of Lithuania was ruled by
somebody known as both Vytautas (Lithuanian) and Witold
(Polish) whose capital was known as Trakai (Lithuanian),
Troki (Polish) and Trok (Yiddish) and who spoke… Ruthenian.
Vytautas/Witold quite possibly had kugel (Yiddish)
and kugelis (Lithuanian) for lunch occasionally, and when
he died was he buried in Vilnius (Lithuanian) and Wilno (Polish).
A cause for much heated debate in Lithuania, not least
among its more patriotic citizens, Vilnius In Your Pocket
apologises for any bad feeling caused by what some may
consider a misuse of some of the words used in this guide.
There’s not a lot we can do about it. Adam Mickiewicz
incidentally was born in what’s now Belarus.
2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and
Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on
basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis
win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon
at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team reach
the semi-finals but eventually come home empty handed.
2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was
first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million
of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends
all services. Dalia Grybauskaitė, the so-called Iron Lady, is
inaugurated as Lithuania’s first female president on July
12. December 31 Vilnius bows out of a disastrous year as
European Capital of Culture on the same day as the Ignalina
Nuclear Power Plant closes for good.
2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from
the Soviet Union on March 11. In a sinister U-turn, on May 19
a court in Klaipėda approves the public display of swastikas
arguing that they represent Lithuania’s historical heritage, not
Nazi Germany. On June 26, at the age of 77, Lithuania’s final First
Secretary under the Communists and its first post-independence
president dies after a short battle with cancer. Lithuania take
bronze medal in the World Basketball Championship in Turkey
after defeating Serbia 99-88 on September 12.
2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the death of
the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis.
The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in
cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18.
Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia in the quarter
finals in Kaunas on September 15.
2012 The Lithuania Under-21 basketball team become the
European champions on July 22, narrowly beating France
50-49 in Ljubljana.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Until August 25
Kinas Po Žvaigždėmis
Translating as Cinema Under the Stars and organised by
the city’s Pasaka cinema, this summer-long event shows
a range of classic and art house films made over the last
half century. Screenings take place on Thursday, Friday
and Saturday evenings after 21:00 in the courtyard of the
Contemporary Arts Centre (see p.13). See www.kinopasaka.
lt for information on particular screenings.
Until September 9
Christopher Summer Festival 2012
Artistic Director Donatas Katkus is responsible for the now
well established annual Christopher Summer Festival, a
veritable feast of music featuring everything from orchestral
and organ works to the more obscure and unknown ends of
the musical spectrum such as Gypsy swing and Senegalese
drumming. Events take place in several locations around the
city. Full repetoire online at www.vilniusfestivals.lt.
August 1 - 30
Pasaulio Muzika Gyvai ‘12
A month-long celebration
of world music including
Jamaica’s Raymond Wright,
OqueStrada from Portugal,
Hungary’s exotic Romengo
and US saxophonist Sax
Gordon among others. The
people who organise this and
other world music events in
Lithuania are doing a great
job at bringing a diversity
of cultures and sounds to
Lithuania. The only problem is their website (www.gmgyvai.
lt), which somewhat ironically if not entirely typically is, with
the exception of a tiny amount of not particularly useful
information in English, in Lithuanian only. Try and get a
local to help.
August 3 - 4
Galapagai Roko Naktys 2012
The annual Rock Nights festival comes around again, taking
place on a fabulous island lake setting in the small town of
Zarasai close to the Latvian border some 150km north of
Vilnius. Expect a huge line-up of rock bands and performers
from all over Europe and further afield, plus a raft of other
associated frolics. Find out more on the festival website at
www.galapagai.lt.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Galapagai Roko Naktys
Sirenos’12
September 27 - October 7
This annual and at times
highly recommended festival
of contemporary theatre is
well worth checking out. All of
the necessary information in
English for anyone interested
in attending any of this year’s
events is available on the
festival website at www.
sirenos.lt.
events
Rodrigo Garcia play Death and Reincarnation as a
Cowboy, photo by Christian Berthelot
August 4 - 29
Piano.lt Summer Festival
A short series of concerts at the excellent Piano.lt featuring
several works favouring the pianoforte as well as other
related events. See www.piano.lt for more information.
August 24 - 26
Mėnuo Juodaragis
Another festival in Zarasai (see above), this one over two
days and celebrating contemporary folk and pagan music
from around 50 performers. The event will be joined by a
simultaneous hot-air balloon competition taking place in the
skies above. Read more at www.mjr.lt.
August 25
Velomarathon Vilnius 2012
Taking the idea of the traditional marathon and transplanting
it onto peddle-powered wheels, the third Velomarathon aids
to promote healthy living, family values, road safety and other
issues with the help of a number of bicycle-related events
including a few races throughout the day. The website at
www.velomaratonas.lt had basic information in English at
the time of going to press and promises to publish a full
schedule soon.
September
Vilnius City Fiesta
A completely free open-air event taking place in several
venues around the city, Vilnius City Fiesta features a huge
variety of live music events, plus film screenings, fashion
shows and much more besides. Exact dates are yet to be
confirmed. Keep an eye on www.vilniusfestivals.lt for further
information.
August - November 2012
11

12 events
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September 11
Laurie Anderson
Arguably one of the top events of the year, the American
experimental composer, musician and performance artist
and wife of Lou Reed Laurie Anderson performs for one night
only inside the city’s Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (see
p.14). Check online at www.teatras.lt or www.bilietupasaulis.
lt for further information.
September 22
Vilnius Fireworks 2012
It’s a bit daft billing yourself as an international event as
Vilnius Fireworks 2012 does when all you can offer on your
website is a few words in Lithuanian. From past experience
however we can confirm that the event will be infinitely more
satisfying that the dreadful promotion. The event takes place
in Vingis Park (see p.65), after dark we assume.
October
Gaida 2012
One of the highlights of Vilnius’ cultural calendar is the
annual Gaida contemporary music festival. Taking place
in several locations around the city, the festival was still
in the process of being organised at the time of going
to press, so little information is currently available.
The website at www.vilniusfestivals.lt has a link to the
festival in English which contains some extremely useful
and helpful background information as well as a list of
confirmed performances.
October 11 - 14
Vilnius Jazz
The 25th Vilnius Jazz festival hits town again in October
for four days of contemporary and experimental jazz
concerts and related activities. Founded during the
early days of perestroika, the festival has grown into
one of the most highly regarded cultural events of the
year in the country, although the experts still maintain
that Kaunas’ international jazz fastival is better. Have
a look at the festival website at www.vilniusjazz.lt and
judge for yourself.
November 7
Juanes Unplugged
Born Juan Esteban Aristizábal Vásquez in 1972 and better
known as Juanes, the Colombian musician and former heavy
metal star takes to the stage inside Vilnius’ Siemens Arena
(see p.13) on November 7 for a night of accoustic music
composed by the man himself and others. Tune into www.
siemensarena.lt for further information.
November 11
BI-2
The legendary MTV Russian Music Awards-winning Russian
rock band who confusingly started life in Minsk, Belarus
perform inside the city’s Forum Palace on November 11.
See www.bilietai.lt for more.
November 14 - 18
Vilnius Mama Jazz
Vilnius Mama Jazz has been going for several years now
and offers a slightly wider spectrum than the festival above.
Keep an eye on www.vilniusmamajazz.lt to see how things
progress.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Not surprisingly for a capital city there’s a lot of culture to
be had in Vilnius including some cracking classical music,
a bit of worthy contemporary art and the occasional faded
Western rock star.
Arts & Crafts
Amatų Gildija B-4, Pranciškonų 6, tel. (+370) 5 212
05 20, www.amatugildija.lt. The ceramic artist Mindaugas
Rutkauskas is almost completely blind yet manages to produce
some great ceramics from classic earthenware crockery
to complete ceramic stoves. He shares this workshop with
several other artists. Feel free to have a look around. Most
of the work on display is for sale. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Jonas Bugailiškis Art Studio C-5, Aušros Vartų 17-
10, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. A local mini-celebrity knocking
out all manner of fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a
combination of traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents
of a very unique mind. Q By appointment only. J
Meno Niša A-3, J. Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5
231 38 11, www.menonisa.lt. Art to hang on your body
as opposed to your wall, this combined gallery and workshop
presents some of the best examples of the work of Lithuanian
goldsmiths. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. J
Molio Laumė A-4/5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 699
424 56, www.ceramics.w3.lt. The ancient art of black
ceramics brought to life inside this intriguing little hands-on
gallery. Buy examples of the craft or attend one of their regular
workshops. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Tautodailininko Dirbtuvė G-4, J. Basanavičiaus 29, tel.
(+370) 687 906 50, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Folk artist
Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day and creates
some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel and piece of
paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian as karpiniai,
this old craft, which has been used to decorate homes during
special celebrations for centuries, is available for sale, or
with patience and a steady hand you can learn how to do it
yourself. Q Open 17:00 - 20:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun
call in advance.
Užupio Galerija D-3, Užupio 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 231 23
18, www.uzupiogalerija.lt. A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive
metal and enamel works from a range of Lithuanian artists. A
combined workshop and gallery, you’ll usually find somebody
working there, who’ll be only too pleased to explain what
they’re up to. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Užupio Kalvystės Galerija - Muziejus I-4, Užupio 26,
tel. (+370) 687 512 55, www.vilniauskalviai.lt. A small
working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch
people at work, buy something as a unique gift or souvenir or
ask about their regular workshops. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30,
Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Cinemas
Films are usually shown in their original language with
Lithuanian subtitles.
Forum Cinemas Vingis G-4, Savanorių 7, tel. 1567,
www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly popular Hollywood films
inside a dedicated multiplex close to the city centre. Also at
Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:30 - 22:00.
Multikino H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 219 53 78,
www.multikino.lt. Hollywood blockbusters inside a large
shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Pasaka B-3, Šv. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 261 15 16,
www.kinopasaka.lt. A compact Old Town cinema specialising
in predominantly independent and/or arthouse films
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Culture
from a wide range of directors including Woody Allen and the
interesting Lithuanian film maker Janina Lapinskaitė. J
Skalvija H-3, A. Goštauto 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 261 05
05, www.skalvija.lt. The best place in the city for arthouse
and underground cinema and meeting people who like it in
the attached café-bar. J
Concert halls
Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy (Lietuvos
Muzikos ir Teatro Akademija) G-3, Gedimino 42, tel.
(+370) 5 261 26 91, www.lmta.lt. The place to come and
see performances by the cream of the country’s next generation
of professional musicians. Concerts including established
performers and conductors from Lithuania and abroad also
take place here from time to time. J
Lithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos
Nacionalinė Filharmonija) C-5, Aušros Vartų 5, tel.
(+370) 5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.eu.
Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the
Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established in
1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles including
the aforementioned orchestra as well as the Čiurlionis
String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana
to name but a few. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. JA
Piano.lt B-4, Trakų 9/1 (entrance on Kėdainių), tel.
(+370) 5 203 28 91, www.piano.lt. Hidden away down an
Old Town backstreet, this small concert hall arranges concerts
of many types including classical and jazz. J
Pramogų Arena E-2, Ąžuolyno 9, tel. (+370) 5 242 44
44, www.pramoguarena.lt. A large ice-skating rink on the
outskirts of the city that also hosts the occasional concert.
Siemens Arena H-1, Ozo 14, tel. 1588, www.siemensarena.lt.
The quintessential all-purpose arena staging
everything from international basketball matches to big name
rock concerts. A
St. Catherine’s Church (Šv. Kotrynos Bažnyčia)
B-3, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, www.kultura.
lt. A city-owned concert space inside a magnificent, converted
18th-century Baroque church. Concerts are varied
and often very good indeed. J
Ūkio Banko Teatro Arena I-3, Olimpiečių 3, tel. (+370)
683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. The main venue for the
OKT theatre company (see Theatres), this large place on the
edge of town is also a concert venue among other things.
Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongresų Rūmai) B-1,
Vilniaus 6/14, tel. (+370) 5 261 88 28, www.lvso.lt. Home
to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre
venue features some fine acoustics and organises everything
from serious classical concerts to shows for children. Q Box office
open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Galleries
Academy (Akademija) C-3, Pilies 44/2, tel. (+370)
5 261 20 94, www.vda.lt. The gallery of the Vilnius Art
Academy hosts all manner of contemporary shows by artists
from home and abroad and is always worth a look inside.
Q Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J
Contemporary Arts Centre (Šiuolaikinio Meno
Centras) C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45,
www.cac.lt. Vilnius’ very own monstrous carbuncle on the
face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete masterpiece conceals
one of the country’s leading galleries for both Lithuanian
and international contemporary art. Surplus to the 2,400
square metres of exhibition space, the Contemporary Arts
Centre also organises conferences and lectures, features a
superb reading room and hosts a rather good bar. QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4Lt. JU
August - November 2012
13

14 Culture
Jewelry Art Studio C-4, Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 615 899
29. A tiny gallery close to the Town Hall in the centre of Old
Town selling a range of Lithuanian-produced contemporary
arts and crafts including jewellery from some of the top names
in the country, paintings and graphic art. QOpen , Tue, Wed,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
TaDas F-3, Kęstučio 51, tel. (+370) 685 555 25, www.
gutauskas.lt. The weird and occasionally wonderful world of
the Lithuanian artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given
over entirely to his painting, sculpture and other media.
Bordering on the naïve and childlike, Gutauskas’ work is
colourful to say the least and all of it is for sale. Q Open by
appointment only.
Terra Recognita C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 612 444 79.
An interesting gallery representing the work of the contemporary
and conceptual Lithuanian artist Saulius Vaitiekūnas. Much
of his work is both fun and thought provoking and is generally
available for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J
Titanikas D-2, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 36,
www.titanikas.com. A series of exhibition halls owned and
curated by the neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions
run the gamut from student shows to serious work from home
and abroad in just about every conceivable medium. QOpen
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Užupio Meno Inkubatorius (Užupis Art Incubator)
D-3, Užupio 2, tel. (+370) 611 226 75, www.umi.lt. A
tumbledown house on the riverbank, brightly painted and with
a few works in the garden, this is Užupis’ unofficial Ministry of
Culture as well as a lively gallery space, workshop and the
home of Užupio Koliažai, the only place in the city to buy official
Užupis Republic memorabilia, souvenirs, local artwork, a copy
of the Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works
from a wide range of contributors including established local
artists, school children and the occasional American professor
of mathematics. Follow the riverbank north from Užupio Kavinė.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. At
the time of going to press the building was closed for reconstruction.
Work is expected to continue until December although the
gallery should be open again in August. J
Vartai B-3, Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytojų Namai), tel.
(+370) 5 212 29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Arguably the
best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find
works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their
fields. Vartai also organises exhibitions by artists from abroad.
Recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun, Mon. The gallery will be closed during August. J
Znad Wilii C-3, Išganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20,
http://znadwiliiwilno.lt. A Polish art gallery displaying and
selling paintings, books and the Polish-language newspaper
of the same name. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Independent cultural centres
Menų Fabrikas G-5, Švitrigailos 29, info@menufabrikas.lt.
An independent, non-profit cultural centre based
inside a fabulous old factory providing creative opportunities,
outlets and events for the community including parties,
fashion shows, educational seminars, film screenings and
much more. Also known as Loftas (The Loft), find them on
Facebook (currently in Lithuanian only) for more information
and details on upcoming events. Q Working hours depend
on repertoire. Entrance 15 - 50Lt.
Opera & Ballet
Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (Lietuvos
Nacionalinis Operos ir Baleto Teatras) H-3, A.
Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 27, www.opera.lt. A
stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole
range of works. Worth a look inside even if you don’t plan on
attending anything. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun (Summer time). JA
Photography
Prospekto Galerija G-3, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370)
5 261 83 38, www.photography.lt. Owned and run by
the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union, Prospekto Galerija is
a hit and miss affair but really worth the effort just in case.
Exhibitions range from the sublime to the awful, often let
down partially by the artists themselves who submit badly
presented work that’s often lit with no thought to the work.
There’s also a small shop where you can buy books and
postcards featuring the work of many famous and obscure
Lithuanian art, news and documentary photographers past
and present. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun.
Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija C-4, Stiklių 4 (entrance
from Didžioji 19), tel. (+370) 618 375 20, www.photography.lt.
Situated above a picture-framing shop that you need to
enter in order to get to the gallery, this small and rather basic affair,
also the property of the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union, puts
on a number of shows throughout the year, some of which are
well worth attending. Find it tucked away in a courtyard. QOpen
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Theatres
Almost all performances are in Lithuanian or Russian.
Some theatres provide occasional simultaneous translation.
Arts Printing House (Menų Spaustuvė) D-2,
Šiltadaržio 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32, www.menuspaustuve.lt.
Housed inside a former tsarist-era printing house this
intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to collect
and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for various performers.
Check the website for a full list of their activities. J
Domino Theatre (Domino Teatras) G-4, Savanorių 7
(Forum Cinemas Vingis), tel. (+370) 656 863 83, www.
dominoteatras.lt. The brainchild of a small collective of
like-minded local thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts
on shows inside a cinema. Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun
an hour before the performance (June - August).
Lėlė Puppet Theatre (Vilniaus Teatras Lėlė) C-4,
Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 86 78, www.teatraslele.lt. This
inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages has been charming
audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back in
1958. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis
Dramos Teatras) B-2, Gedimino 4, tel. (+370)
618 757 80, www.teatras.lt. Pretty much what it says it is, the
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre promotes theatre from home
and abroad and stages it in two venues inside the same building.
Look for the three muses guarding the main entrance. Q Box
office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. J
Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Rusų
Dramos Teatras) H-4, J. Basanavičiaus 13, tel. (+370)
5 262 05 52, www.rusudrama.lt. The only professional
theatre in the country staging works exclusively in the Russian
language, this fine old building also hosts other events
including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival. Q Box office
open 10:45 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Meno Fortas D-2, Bernardinų 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 268
58 16, www.menofortas.lt. An Old Town theatre given over
entirely to the visionary antics of the infamous Lithuanian theatrical
director Eimuntas Nekrošius. Works include everything
from Shakespeare to original works. J
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Culture
Opera & Ballet Opera & Ballet continued
August
Concert
28 19:00 Concert of the Gewandhaus
Orchestra
September
Opera
29 18:30 L’Elisir d’Amore G. Donizetti.
Operetta
28 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.
Ballet
15 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
16 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
19 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
21 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.
22 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.
26 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.
27 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.
For Children
30 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
October
Opera
4 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.
10 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet.
13 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
18 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.
20 18:30 Otello G. Verdi.
25 18:30 Boris Godunov M. Musorgskis.
26 18:30 Boris Godunov M. Musorgskis.
Ballet
3 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.
11 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.
12 18:30 Giselle A. Adam.
17 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.
19 18:30 Don Quixote L. A. Minkus.
27 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus.
28 12:00 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.
30 18:30 The Fountain Of Bakhchisarai
National Academic Bolshoi Ballet
Theatre of the Republic of Belarus
Concert
6 19:00 Anniversary Concert of E.
Kaniava
For Children
6 12:00 Burattino J. Gaižauskas.
7 12:00 Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs
B. Pawlowski.
14 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
21 12:00 Snow White And The Seven
Dwarfs B. Pawlowski.
27 12:00 Burattino J. Gaižauskas.
November
Opera
3 18:30 Otello G. Verdi.
8 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
16 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A.
Mozart.
17 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A.
Mozart.
22 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet.
29 18:30 La Juive J. F. Halevy.
Operetta
10 18:30 The Merry Widow F. Lehár.
24 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Ballet
2 18:30 Giselle A. Adam.
7 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
9 18:30 Barbora Radvilaitė S. Vainiūnas,
A. Malcys, H. M. Górecki and other
composers.
23 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodarakis.
28 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus.
30 18:30 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
For Children
4 12:00 The Tiny Lingonberry J.
Tamulionis.
11 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofjev.
18 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofjev.
25 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
Performances take place at the Lithuanian National
Opera and Ballet Theatre (see p. 14). More info at www.
opera.lt
National Youth Theatre (Valstybinis Jaunimo Teatras)
C-4, Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61 26, www.jaunimoteatras.lt.
Founded in 1966 the National Youth Theatre
stages works of all kinds from the classics to experimental to
innovative reworkings of original stories. Q Box office open
11:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre (OKT/Vilniaus Miesto
Teatras) B-4, Ašmenos 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99,
www.okt.lt. Dedicated to modern theatre and modern
interpretations of the classics. J
Vilnius Old Town Theatre (Vilniaus Senamiesčio
Teatras) A-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 5 213 40
64, www.senamiescioteatras.lt. Founded during the final
days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the theatre
specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of the 16th
and 17th centuries. With a varied repertoire, the company
performs almost exclusively in public outdoor spaces.
Vilnius Small State Theatre (Valstybinis Vilniaus
Mažasis Teatras) A-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5
249 98 69, www.vmt.lt. Only finding a permanent home
in 2005, this interesting theatre company who stage a wide
range of predominantly contemporary works are based inside
a glorious building in the city centre. Q Box office open 11:00 -
15:00, 16:00 - 18:30. Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
Cultural centres
American Center B-4, Akmenų 7, tel. (+370) 5 266
53 00, vilnius.usembassy.gov. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00,
Tue 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
British Council A-2, Vilniaus 31, tel. (+370) 5 210 04
28, www.britishcouncil.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J
Danish Cultural Institute B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370)
5 212 24 12, www.dki.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
French Institute C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96
96, www.institutfrancais-lituanie.com. QOpen 09:00 -
17:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Library open 13:30
- 18:30 Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Goethe Institute B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 231
44 33, www.goethe.de/vilnius. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Italian Cultural Institute C-3, Universiteto 4, tel.
(+370) 5 261 10 76, www.iicvilnius.esteri.it. Q Open
10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
August - November 2012
15

16 where to stay
Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation
options in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in
Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning
staying right in the centre is always an option. Booking a
room in advance is recommended, especially so during
the summer.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant J Old town location
D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wifi
Cream of the crop
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square C-2, Universiteto
14/2, tel. (+370) 5 220 11 00, fax (+370) 5 220 11 20,
reservations.vilnius@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.
com/vilnius. Finally due to open in September 2012, the long
awaited arrival of Vilnius’ very own Kempinski hotel has definitely
been worth the wait. Located in an unbeatable location
opposite the Cathedral, this vast historical building has been
fully renovated to the highest possible standards. Featuring a
wide range of rooms from standards through to an awe-inspiring
presidential suite, all with free wireless internet, minibars, interactive
televisions and much more besides, if you can afford
to stay here then we recommend that you do. Extras include a
wellness and spa centre, impressive business and conference
facilities, a boutique and even a ballroom. First class indeed.
Q96 rooms (11 singles €200 - 260, 72 doubles €220 - 330,
12 suites €490 - 3,500, 1 presidential suite €490 - 3,500).
PTJHARUIFKDCW hhhhh
Radisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. (+370)
5 212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@
radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius.
The name, building and location say it all, as indeed does
the list of the great and the good who choose to stay here
when in town. A beautiful collection of rooms and suites
are on offer, some with spectacular views of Old Town. Top
notch accommodation with all the trimmings, plus business
facilities, swimming pool, express laundry, a French restaurant
and a bar selling some of the freshest local beer in the city.
Q119 rooms (16 singles €99 - 129, 99 doubles €109 - 229,
4 suites €400 - 750). PJHARUFKDXCW
hhhhh
Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius C-5, Subačiaus 2, tel.
(+370) 5 255 33 55, fax (+370) 5 255 33 11, hotel@ramadavilnius.lt,
www.ramadavilnius.lt. Delicious opulence
meets high standards of modernity. As you’d expect from a
five-star hotel, the rooms are nothing short of spectacular,
featuring classic antique designs mixed together with the
latest technology such as flat screen televisions, DVD players
and voicemail. There’s also a wellness centre, conference
facilities and even an umbrella in every room. A celebrity
favourite, past guests include Enrique Iglesias, Sting, Jean
Michel Jarre, Chris Rea and Limp Bizkit. Q55 rooms (9 singles
€117, 35 doubles €138, 9 suites €228, 2 apartments €348).
PTJHAR6UIFLKDXW hhhhh
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel C-3, Gaono 7, tel.
(+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, sales@
stikliaihotel.lt, www.stikliaihotel.lt. Occupying a sumptuous
building with Gothic and Baroque elements, the Stikliai
is where millionaires have been taking themselves for a very
long time indeed. Old fashioned in most senses of the term,
the fully air-conditioned rooms come with such treats as
satellite and cable television, internet, mini bars and Turkish
baths in the best suites. Sauna, pool, conference facilities and
an equally ostentatious restaurant can also be found here. It
doesn’t come much better than this. Q43 rooms (11 singles
€158, 17 doubles €190 - 220, 14 suites €350 - 500, 1 apartment
€1,100). PJHAR6UIFLKDXCW
hhhhh
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies
24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82,
reservations@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. Totally
gorgeous in every conceivable way, room interiors include
everything from original 16th-century frescoes and wooden
beams to Jacuzzis in the suites. Decorated with the ultimate
in style and panache, there’s no need to roll off a list
of everything in the rooms because they’ve really got it all.
Add to that a location to die for, impeccable service, a fine
restaurant and a magical spa and, if you can afford it, you’d
be a nutter to stay anywhere else. Q53 rooms (8 singles
€99 - 170, 24 doubles €109 - 210, 14 suites €129 - 260,
2 apartments €400 - 900, 7 junior suites €156 - 900).
PTJHAR6UKDXCW hhhhh
Upmarket
Amberton Hotel B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 1, tel.
(+370) 5 210 74 61, fax (+370) 5 210 74 60, vilnius@
amberton.lt, www.ambertonhotels.com. It could be made
of damp straw and the restaurant could serve nothing but cabbage
and you’d still probably book a room once you saw the
view. Not that it is made of damp straw we should point out, and
of course the restaurant’s pretty good too. Expect free internet
in the rooms, minibars and all mod cons, good mannered staff
and two of the best restaurants in the city next door in fact. An
absolute winner for both facilities and location. Q 96 rooms
(240 -700Lt). PJHARULKXW hhhh
Artis Centrum Hotels B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel.
(+370) 5 266 03 66, fax (+370) 5 266 03 77, artis@
centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. Perfectly
located between Old Town and Gedimino, this large white
birthday cake-looking hotel has been catering to a better
class of guest for years. Surplus to the marvellous views from
the upper front rooms are air-conditioning throughout, Pay
TV, internet access and for the nervous, peepholes in all the
doors. Good for healthy-minded visitors, the hotel also manages
to pack in a gym and swimming pool. Q108 rooms (12
singles €87 - 139, 87 doubles €97 - 159, 9 suites €115 - 209).
PJHARUFLKDXCW hhhh
Atrium C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, fax
(+370) 5 210 77 70, hotel@atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt.
One of the favourite choices of visiting big-wigs and other
VIPs, Atrium blends together the antiquities of Old Town
with the very best of modern hotel accommodation to great
effect. Complete with minibars, heated bathroom floors
and everything else you’d expect when handing over this
much money in return for a bed for the night, extras include
conference facilities, sauna, a cracking little Argentinean
restaurant and arguably the best location in Vilnius. Q30
rooms (3 singles €65 - 89, 17 doubles €72 - 119, 6 triples
€92 - 125, 5 suites €95 - 139, 5 apartments €105 - 160).
PJHA6ULKDW hhhh
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Best Western Vilnius H-2, Konstitucijos 14, tel.
(+370) 5 273 95 95, fax (+370) 5 273 95 00, office@
vilniushotel.eu, www.vilniushotel.eu. Located in the
heart of the city’s main business district just north of
the river, the four-star Best Western Vilnius is accordingly
geared towards business travellers although there’s no
reason why anybody else can’t stay there either. A wealth
of tastefully decorated rooms plus a gorgeous apartment
with its own sauna are available, all coming with wireless
internet, satellite television, minibars and other treats.
A taxi to Old Town costs less than 10Lt. Q114 rooms
(12 singles €61 - 130, 93 doubles €69 - 145, 4 triples
€89 - 165, 4 suites €195 - 220, 1 apartment €232 - 260).
PHA6UFLKDXCW hhhh
Congress H-3, Vilniaus 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 269 19
19, fax (+370) 5 251 42 80, info@congress.lt, www.
congress.lt. If this hotel was a person, it would proudly
strut about and puff its chest out. And rightly so. Everything
has a neat, tidy confidence about it, and even if you’re in a
standard room, the place has an elegant yet business-class
feel about it. We also like the free wireless internet. After a
good night’s rest you’ll be ready to take on the town, and
will find yourself conveniently located mid-way between Old
Town and the new business district north of the river. Q80
rooms (21 singles 240Lt, 27 doubles 280Lt, 8 triples 360Lt,
3 suites 560Lt, 1 apartment 1,000Lt, 3 de-luxe 440Lt).
PJHARFLKDW hhhh
Conti B-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. (+370) 5 251 41 11,
fax (+370) 5 251 41 00, info@contihotel.lt, www.
contihotel.lt. A good choice of singles, doubles, business
class rooms, suites and apartments inside a well located
hotel boasting a splendid jumble of old and new. Rooms
come with the absolute minimum of internet connections,
satellite television and minibars with add-ons including such
opulence as a Jacuzzi in the luxury room and apartments.
The lobby café’s a nice place for quiet drink, plus the upper
floors provide some fabulous views of the city. Q88
rooms (17 singles €70, 68 doubles €76, 1 suite €201, 2
apartments €275). PJHARUFLKDXW
hhhh
Crowne Plaza Vilnius F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 84, tel.
(+370) 5 274 34 00, fax (+370) 5 274 34 11, info@
cpvilnius.com, www.cpvilnius.com. The only remaining
features of Inturist’s flagship Hotel Friendship are the foundations,
one or two arty internal elements and the views, the
latter being some of the greenest and most pleasant in the
city. Plonked west of the centre on the edge of one of the
capital’s finest parks, this business class box is a favourite
among professionals travelling individually or as part of a
group who are there to use the fine conference facilities. The
16th-floor restaurant-bar offers one of the prettiest places
to get plastered in Lithuania. Q108 rooms (29 singles €60
- 80, 19 doubles €60 - 80, 19 triples €70 - 90, 38 suites
€80 - 100, 3 apartments €100 - 140). PHAR6U�
FLKDXCW hhhh
Dvaras B-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 70, fax
(+370) 5 261 87 83, hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt.
Celebrating the former manor house status of the building
it’s located in, Dvaras is a small hotel with grand ideas, noticeable
in everything from the décor to the price. Just eight
rooms, from singles to luxury suites, are on offer, all given an
old world treatment and all coming with life’s little luxuries.
There’s a couple of fancy restaurants as well, all of it packaged
together just a two-minute walk from the Cathedral. Q8
rooms (3 singles €75, 3 doubles €89, 2 suites €129 - 140).
PJHARLKW hhhh
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
where to stay
Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Aušros Vartų 6, tel.
(+370) 5 266 07 70, fax (+370) 5 261 20 00, vilnius@
europaroyale.com, www.EuropaRoyale.com. The Europa
chain’s flagship Vilnius hotel continues to offer high standards
of service in an admirable Old Town location that’s hard to
beat. The choice of individual rooms and suites is impressive,
with even the most basic featuring mini bars, free wireless
internet, air-conditioning and satellite television. Also find
meeting rooms, international press and the fabulous Medininkai
restaurant. One of the better places to stay in town if
you can afford it. Q 51 rooms (2 singles €75 - 119, 33 doubles
€75 - 124, 11 suites €90 - 139, 5 apartments €149 - 240).
PJHAR6ULKW hhhh
Grotthuss B-5, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22,
fax (+370) 5 266 03 23, info@grotthusshotel.com,
www.grotthusshotel.com. This self-proclaimed aristocratic
boutique hotel in a quiet Old Town street contains 20 rooms
and suites complete with Italian furniture, original art on the
walls, wireless internet, minibars and satellite television.
Favoured by well-heeled visitors who like the personal touch,
the hotel also features an in-house gourmet restaurant and
state of the art business facilities. Q20 rooms (5 singles
376Lt, 3 suites 790 - 860Lt, 12 superior doubles 550 - 620Lt).
JHARLKXW hhhh
Star spangled banter
This guide uses the star system as defined by the
Lithuanian Department of Tourism, in which stars are
awarded for amenities offered, and don’t necessarily
reflect the quality of those amenities or the standard
of service provided.
August - November 2012
17

18 where to stay
Holiday Inn H-3, Šeimyniškių 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 30
00, fax (+370) 5 210 30 01, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www.
holidayinnvilnius.lt. Hugely popular with visiting Americans
who like the assurance of something they’ve slept in before,
this world classic’s Vilnius incarnation is located just north of
the river close to the business district. Swish and decidedly
modern, the rooms all have that typical Holiday Inn feel, plus
there’s an excellent little bar at street level complete with
complimentary press where it’s possible to spend an entire
evening watching the world go by and drinking the night away
on your company’s expense account. A taxi ride to Old Town
is about 15Lt during the day. Q134 rooms (92 doubles €79,
41 suites €109, 1 apartment €280). PHARUFLK�
DXW hhhh
Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212
20 87, fax (+370) 5 212 22 40, mabre@mabre.lt, www.
mabre.lt. Found inside a fabulous former monastery, some of
it dating back as far as the 17th century, this swanky hotel can
be found on the border of Old Town and Užupis inside a lovely
quiet courtyard. Geared towards all types of traveller with a
healthy bank account, rooms veer from more than adequate
singles to the wonderful (and surprisingly affordable) presidential
suite. Surplus to the rooms are all manner of treats,
from the recommended sauna and small pool to the in-house
steak restaurant. Q40 rooms (3 singles 408Lt, 27 doubles
516 - 576Lt, 8 suites 696Lt, 2 apartments 936 - 992Lt).
PJHAR6ULKDXCW hhhh
Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 88, fax
(+370) 5 212 22 99, book@neringahotel.com, www.
neringahotel.com. The superb Neringa hotel stands out
as one of the city centre’s major business-class hotels. The
Scandinavian-styled rooms come in both standard and superior
classes, offering good value whilst still managing to provide everything
the modern business traveller requires. Extras include a
selection of international newspapers and magazines, a small
pool and the fabulous Neringa restaurant complete with original
Soviet frescoes dating from 1959. Q60 rooms (22 singles
€64 - 104, 34 doubles €64 - 114, 4 apartments €94 - 134).
PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhh
Novotel Vilnius Centre B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5
266 62 00, fax (+370) 5 266 62 01, h5209@accor.com,
www.novotel.com. Great comfort and four-star luxury from
the international Novotel chain inside a large modern building
in the heart of the city. Choices of rooms include Superior
and Executive class as well as a handful of suites, all of them
light and spacious, with many featuring magnificent Old Town
views. Facilities inside the rooms all include free internet and
a number of other excellent facilities. The hotel also features
a good restaurant, bar, sauna, fitness centre and business
options in a total of seven rooms complete with full services.
Q159 rooms (88 singles €79 - 188, 44 doubles €91 - 200, 3
suites €221, 20 executive €111 - 220, 4 handicap €79 - 200).
PTJHA6UFKDXW hhhh
Park Villa Vaidilutės 6a, tel. (+370) 5 211 33 56, fax
(+370) 5 211 33 57, info@parkvilla.lt, www.parkvilla.
lt. Located in almost certainly the best location for a hotel
in Vilnius, Park Villa sits among pine trees on the edge of a
river by a popular sandy beach. In the exclusive Valakampiai
district, the hotel features rooms in several categories from
the excellent value singles through to the Deluxe complete
with whirlpool and a jolly super view of the river. There’s also a
decent in-house restaurant and another restaurant next door.
A 15-minute drive from the city centre, you’ll need a map to
find it as signposts simply don’t exist. Q29 rooms (7 singles
170 - 360Lt, 18 doubles 200 - 220Lt, 3 triples 210 - 340Lt, 1
suite 360Lt). PTHA6LKDCW hhhh
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva H-3, Konstitucijos 20,
tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, fax (+370) 5 272 62 70, info.
lietuva.vilnius@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.
com/lietuvahotel-vilnius. The city’s flagship 80s Soviet
hotel received an enormous renovation several years ago
and now boasts the best of two worlds. Located on the north
bank of the Neris in the heart of the main business district,
this 22-floor beauty is quality business class accommodation
indeed. The rooms are bright and fresh, there’s a vast
conference capacity space, the in-house restaurant is very
good indeed and the bar on the top should be on everybody’s
list of places to visit regardless of whether they’re staying
in the building or not. Brilliant. Q 291 rooms (€79 - 500).
POTHARUFLKDXW hhhh
Šarūnas I-3, Raitininkų 4, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 88,
fax (+370) 5 272 43 55, info@hotelsarunas.lt, www.
hotelsarunas.lt. A good value business class hotel close
to the centre of things and just north of the city’s emerging
business district, complete with all of the necessary add-ons
for today’s demanding traveller such as satellite television,
minibar, air conditioning and free wireless internet. Everything
is spotlessly clean, and the numerous perks include good
conference facilities, sauna, fitness centre and a super
restaurant-bar good for personal dining or group hire. For
the price, this is by far one of the best hotels in its category.
Q54 rooms (29 singles 250 - 270Lt, 18 doubles 270 -
290Lt, 5 suites 300 - 320Lt, 2 apartments 350 - 600Lt).
PHAR6UFLKDW hhhh
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardinų 8/8,
tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, fax (+370) 5 266 58 86,
info@shakespeare.lt, www.shakespeare.lt. To book a
room, or not to book a room, that is the question. Dickens,
Joyce, Shakespeare of course and Tolstoy all have rooms
named after them in this literary-themed hotel in one of
the quietest and nicest streets in Old Town. Surplus to
the excellent facilities in the rooms, guests all get a free
present on arrival, plus there’s a rather good restaurant
and a refreshingly peaceful and recommended bar to
boot. Q31 rooms (8 singles 360Lt, 13 doubles 560 -
600Lt, 8 suites 640 - 680Lt, 2 apartments 720 - 760Lt).
PJHAR6LKXW hhhh
Mid-range
AAA Mano Liza B-4, Ligoninės 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22
25, fax (+370) 5 212 25 08, hotel@aaa.lt, www.hotelinvilnius.lt.
A small, family-run hotel in a quiet Old Town backstreet,
this place has been garnering constantly good opinions seemingly
forever. And for good reason. With a boutique hotel feel,
local art on the walls and the now almost standard inclusion
that’s free wireless internet, Mano Liza offers a personal touch
lacking in many similar places. Those who stumble back in at
dawn should take advantage of their much talked about all-day
breakfast. Q8 rooms (1 single €47, 2 doubles €64, 4 suites
€81, 1 apartment €93). JA6KW hhh
Alexa B/C-5, Pylimo 53/2, tel. (+370) 5 219 17 80,
fax (+370) 5 278 40 95, reservations@hotelalexa.eu,
www.hotelalexa.eu. The quintessential Lithuanian mixed
bag accommodation option, by all accounts the people who
work here are a charming bunch and the rooms are all perfectly
fine for the price, even if one of two of them are a very
strange shape. Close to the bus and train stations in a slightly
lugubrious part of town, pitfalls include wireless internet you
have to pay for and a lack of places to eat in the immediate
area. Q 34 rooms (2 singles €35 - 45, 25 doubles €38 - 60,
3 triples €59 - 85, 3 quads €75 - 100, 1 suite €80 - 100).
JHA6ULKW hhh
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Long term rental
Barbacan Apartments D-5, Bokšto 19/12,
tel. (+370) 615 126 88, info@barbacan.lt, www.
aparthotel.lt. A range of extremely high quality two- and
three-room apartments in a quiet location and a lovely old
building in Old Town. Facilities include underground parking,
satellite television, internet, fully equipped kitchens
and everything else necessary for a luxurious stay. Apartments
are available to rent for both long and short stays.
Q Apartments from €101/night. Discounts available for
longer stays. PTJA6ULXW
Stiklių Dvaras (Stikliai Apartments) C-3,
Dominikonų 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370)
5 212 38 70, apartments@stikliaihotel.lt, www.
stikliaiapartments.lt. Luxuriously furnished apartments
inside a 16th- and 17th-century building available
for both short- and long-term rental. Tastefully decorated
and located in the same building as the Relais & Chateaux
Stikliai hotel, apartments come fully equipped
with lounge, kitchen, bathroom, one or two bedrooms
plus satellite television and internet access. There’s
underground parking too, plus guests/residents have
access to the adjoining hotel’s fitness centre and swimming
pool. Q 10 apartments (€1,500 - 3,500/month).
PTJHARFLKDXC
Algirdas City Hotels G-5, Algirdo 24, tel. (+370) 5 232
66 50, fax (+370) 5 232 66 54, info@algirdashotel.lt,
www.algirdashotel.lt. Located inside a grand-looking building
close to the action and tantalisingly near to a clutch of superb
Chinese restaurants and a 24-hour supermarket, the Algirdas
boasts everything necessary for a comfortable stay. The well
appointed rooms all come with en suite facilities, wireless
internet and a choice of extras according to price including
refrigerators and kettles in the deluxe rooms. The in-house
restaurant also churns out a menu of better than average food
plus the staff on reception are extremely helpful when it comes
to getting hold of things generally difficult to find. Q 42 rooms
(7 singles from €43, 33 doubles from €55, 2 suites from €70).
PJHAULKXW hhh
Apia Hotel B-3, Šv. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26,
fax (+370) 5 212 36 18, apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. A
small, family-run hotel in a wonderful location in the heart of
Old Town close to several good bars and restaurants, all rooms
include free internet access and satellite television plus there’s
guarded parking and a friendly staff to help with whatever you
need. Located inside a collection of fabulously restored 17th
century buildings, news filtering back from previous guests
suggests this one is definitely worth further investigation. Q12
rooms (7 singles 203Lt, 7 doubles 251Lt, 2 triples 299Lt, 3
suites 272 - 320Lt). JHAR6LXW hhh
Centro Kubas - Angel C-3, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266
08 60, fax (+370) 5 266 08 63, hotel@centrokubas.
lt, www.hotel.centrokubas.lt. Angels, windmills, farming
implements and an altogether rustic feel inside another
favourite Vilnius hotel. Small enough for the personal touch to
still shine through yet not too small to cram plenty of useful
gadgets in the rooms. Hidden away down a wiggly Old Town
street a few metres from the historic centre’s main thoroughfare,
it may not be the cheapest option around but if you’re
planning on visiting regularly they do offer a good discount
scheme. Q 14 rooms ( singles from €52, doubles from €57,
triples from €79, suites €69 - 79, apartments from €79).
PJHAR6UILXW hhh
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
where to stay
City Gate C-5, Bazilijonų 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 06, fax
(+370) 5 210 73 07, hotel@citygate.lt, www.citygate.lt.
Close to the Dawn Gate, just outside Old Town and looking not
unlike part of the set from Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, this
lovely little hotel affords a healthy space between itself and the
chaos of Friday night whilst still being just across the road from
the sights. The rooms are decent, all coming with free wireless
internet, plus there’s three conference halls. Q29 rooms (2 singles
195 - 250Lt, 17 doubles 240 - 330Lt, 4 triples 300 - 450Lt,
6 suites 250 - 380Lt). PJHAUILKXWhhh
Comfort Hotel Lt H-5, Mindaugo 27, tel. (+370) 5 250
51 11, fax (+370) 5 250 51 14, co.vilnius@choice.lt,
www.comforthotel.lt. Still very much a building site at the
time of going to press and promising to open its doors in the
middle of August 2012, the brand new Comfort Hotel can be
found close to the train and bus stations and little more than
five minutes away from Old Town on foot. The rooms will all
come with en suite facilities and free wireless internet, plus
communal offerings include a small gym and business facilities.
Q Open from August 15. 200 rooms (€39 - 149/night).
PHA6UFLKW hhh
Comfort Vilnius B-5, Gėlių 5, tel. (+370) 5 264 88 33,
fax (+370) 5 264 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com,
www.mikotelgroup.com. Simplicity and style get together
and have a bit of a cuddle in this bare-basics but nonetheless
comfortable little hide-away. Basically it’s a cheap-stay
option with nice little touches (such as light-proof curtains
and free parking) that other budget beds come without. A
quality bargain. Q57 rooms (8 singles €86, 45 doubles €96,
4 deluxe €125). JHAW hhh
Domus Maria C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel. (+370) 5 264
48 80, fax (+370) 5 264 48 78, domusmaria@vilnensis.
lt, www.domusmaria.lt. Excellent value Old Town accommodation
inside a 17th century former Carmelite monastery,
find 39 well appointed rooms including singles, doubles,
triples, quads and luxury, some with splendid views and all
with televisions, internet connections and en suite bathroom
facilities. There’s conference facilities available for those
who need them plus an in-house café where meals can be
ordered throughout the day. Q39 rooms (3 singles €52, 26
doubles €77, 5 triples €92, 2 quads €98, 3 suites €72 - 82).
JHARULKW hhh
E-GuestHouse G-4, T. Ševčenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 266
07 30, fax (+370) 5 233 57 10, info@e-guesthouse.lt,
www.e-guesthouse.lt. Quite the oddest little guesthouse
that there ever was, featuring compact, modern and well
thought out rooms, all coming with internet connections
and en suite bathrooms, plus conference facilities for up to
60, guarded parking, sauna and two different places to eat
and drink. Located at the top of the hill a good 15-minute
walk from Old Town inside a modern building, the location
may not be the best in town but, especially if you get one of
the less expensive rooms, it does offer excellent value for
money. Q34 rooms (4 singles €35 - 44, 14 doubles €54
- 69, 4 triples €70 - 73, 2 suites €58 - 75, 10 apartments
€83 - 123). PHAR6UFLDW hhh
Sleep smarts
I have a reservation
Aš esu užsisakęs kambarį
More toilet paper please
Norėčiau dar tualetinio popieriaus
August - November 2012
19

20 where to stay
Europa City Vilnius G-3, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5
251 44 77, fax (+370) 5 251 44 76, vilnius@europacity.
lt, www.europacity.lt. The perfect budget business class
hotel, featuring comfortable rooms with all the conveniences
from satellite television and minibar to top security card keys
and internet connections. Add-ons include a fitness centre to
keep in trim whilst you’re working abroad, conference facilities
and a white tablecloth restaurant. Q 128 rooms (90 singles/
doubles €55 - 69, 20 business class rooms €72 - 79, 10
suites €77 - 84, 4 apartments €109). PHAR6U�
FLKDXW hhh
Europa Stay Vilnius Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 236
22 22, fax (+370) 5 236 22 33, vilnius@europastay.
com. Lots of bright blues and greens more than make up
for the dull journey required to get to and from this budget
class hotel a good 20 minutes from the city centre. Europa
Stay Vilnius is the latest offering from the Europa hotel chain,
a commendable and professional outfit who’ve applied the
same business sense to their less exclusive hotels they do
to the others. The 101 rooms are all en suite and come with
satellite television and wireless internet. Health fans will be
happy to discover the hotel is located inside a large sports
centre. Q101 rooms (25 singles €36 - 51, 66 doubles €41
- 56, 7 triples €46 - 61, 3 apartments €60). PHA6U�
FLKDW hhh
Grata Hotel G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 268 33 00,
fax (+370) 5 213 27 60, hotel@gratahotel.com, www.
gratahotel.com. It’s a bit of a safari to reach reception but
once you do finally manage to find it you’ll be glad you did.
Refreshingly welcoming, the hotel, perched on top of the hill
not too far from Old Town, is geared towards the business
traveller but that doesn’t mean you have to wear a suit to
stay here. The rooms, which famously boast a computer in
every one, feature classic business hotel blue carpets, en
suite bathrooms, satellite television and minibars. Q101
rooms (33 singles €38 - 110, 59 doubles €50 - 120, 4
triples €70 - 140, 5 suites €78 - 150). HAR6ULK�
DXCW hhh
Green Vilnius Hotel Pilaitės 20, tel. (+370) 5 250
06 95, fax (+370) 5 250 06 94, info@greenhotel.lt,
www.greenhotel.lt. This surprisingly large budget hotel
(126 rooms at the last count) is a budget hotel for a reason,
namely because it’s not exactly what one could describe
as being in the city centre. If you don’t mind lots of messing
about on public transport or are prepared to run the gauntlet
of the city’s taxi drivers then by all means be their guest. The
rooms come in a range of sporty colours and are all fitted
with showers, televisions with international channels and
wireless internet, with an extra four floors featuring rooms
with small kitchens for people who want to stay for more
than a few days. Surplus to the super budget lodgings are
conference facilities and a restaurant. Q126 rooms (singles
159Lt, doubles 180Lt, quads 245Lt). HA6ULKW
hhh
Hotel Tilto B-1/C-2, Tilto 8/3, tel. (+370) 5 210 00
21, fax (+370) 5 210 00 20, info@hoteltilto.com, www.
hoteltilto.com. An excellent location on a quiet Old Town
street close to the Cathedral and other major sites, Hotel
Tilto garners much praise from those who’ve slept in their
beds. Among the amenities are en suite facilities for all,
satellite television and wireless internet access in a choice
of rooms from compact singles through to mini apartments.
The staff are a friendly bunch plus there’s a small bar specialising
in draught Guinness in the cellar. Q34 rooms (6 singles
166 - 307Lt, 15 doubles 200 - 363Lt, 6 triples 242 - 497Lt,
7 suites 276 - 518Lt). PJHAKDW hhh
Panorama B-6, Sodų 14, tel. (+370) 5 233 88 22, fax
(+370) 5 233 88 32, reservation@mikotelgroup.com,
www.mikotelgroup.com. This surprising hotel rises above
its location and offers wonderful views of Old Town and plenty
of comfort and luxury without steep prices. While it is very
convenient to be across the square from the bus and train
stations, it is a convenience that is also enjoyed by all manner
of scumbags, vagrants and weary commuters. Being in the
freshly renovated hotel is lovely. Hanging around outside it is
not. Still, it’s just a short stroll and a quick run of the gauntlet
to Old Town, and the combination of views, basic comforts and
reasonable prices is unmatched. Q223 rooms (13 singles
€86 - 105, 195 doubles €96 - 115, 9 triples €115, 2 apartments
€155, 3 deluxe €125). JHA6LKW hhh
Park Inn Vilnius North Ukmergės 363, tel. (+370)
5 238 80 00, fax (+370) 5 238 85 55, info.vilnius@
rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-vilnius.
Located 6km or so north of the city centre on the main
road north out of the capital, Park Inn Vilnius North provides
the usual excellent Park Inn experience for visitors
of all persuasions. Featuring 84 Standard and Business
Friendly rooms, facilities include bright and comfortable
accommodation with free wireless internet as standard
and a host of other treats. Extras include a restaurant,
bar, large meeting room and free parking. Q84 rooms (79
singles €42 - 48, 79 doubles €47 - 53, 5 suites €62 - 73).
HAR6ULKXW hhh
Rinno A-4, Vingrių 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28, fax
(+370) 5 262 59 29, info@rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt.
Just west of Old Town in a small, quiet street, Rinno is a
good-looking three-star hotel in an admirable location for
an affordable price. The rooms come in several categories
from the good value standards through to luxury rooms
complete with a large bath and minibar. All rooms feature
free wireless internet, although you should check first to
make sure you get a room close to the wireless box to
make sure the signal is strong enough. Q17 rooms (14
singles €49 - 79, 14 doubles €55 - 89, 3 suites €69 - 99).
JHA6LKW hhh
Senatoriai C-2, Tilto 2a, tel. (+370) 5 212 64 91, fax
(+370) 5 212 63 72, info@senatoriai.lt, www.senatoriai.
lt. A super little hotel practically on top of the Cathedral,
Senatoriai features a small selection of en suite rooms
complete with chintzy curtains, refrigerators, extraordinarily
comfortable beds, free wireless internet and, in Room N°9,
a magical view of Gediminas Castle. The staff are friendly
and the in-house restaurant (breakfast is extra and comes
from a menu) is an extremely popular place for all manner
of locals as well as a venue for rowdy weekend parties. The
best Mexican restaurant in town also just so happens to be
right next door. Q 11 rooms ( singles 190Lt, doubles 230Lt).
PTJA6LKXW hhh
Budget
Ambassador B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 54
50, fax (+370) 5 212 17 16, info@ambassador.lt, www.
ambassador.lt. A magnificent throwback to an earlier age
with a few 21st-century concessions, the Ambassador
provides adequate lodging for a fine price with the added
advantage of one of the best locations in town. The rooms
are a little old-fashioned, but if you’re in the mood for a bargain
complete with pleasant staff, surprisingly good breakfast and
a cavalcade of top sights on your doorstep, look no further.
Q18 rooms (3 singles 100 - 240Lt, 11 doubles 115 - 280Lt,
2 triples 175 - 340Lt, 1 quad 235 - 400Lt, 1 suite 360Lt).
JA6LX hh
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Corner Hotel G-5, T. Ševčenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 210
23 61, fax (+370) 5 210 23 64, reservation@cornerhotel.lt,
www.cornerhotel.lt. An excellent budget choice
close to Old Town at the top of the hill, this clean and modern
option provides a range of simple en suite rooms for between
one and four guests, free wireless internet and a better than
average breakfast. Corner Hotel is also worth considering
if you’re coming to stay for a while, offering serviced en
suite rooms with shared kitchen and laundry facilities. It’s
also just around the corner from Algirdo, a street boasting
several good restaurants. Q141 rooms (5 singles 177Lt,
33 triples 216Lt, 5 quads 236Lt, 98 double (twin) 196Lt).
HA6ULW hh
Ecotel Vilnius H-3, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00,
fax (+370) 5 210 27 07, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel.
lt. Tucked away in a pleasant, quiet part of town just east of
the city’s emerging business district, Ecotel offers a choice
of sleek and comfortable rooms, all coming with telephone
and television, and including a range for non-smokers and
those with allergy problems. With conference facilities
and a whole host of other services (including ‘rooms for
tall guests’) this might be the lofty option you’re looking
for. Q166 rooms (20 singles €40, 136 doubles €46, 10
triples €51). HAR6ULW hh
Mikotel C-6, Pylimo 63, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 26, fax
(+370) 5 260 96 27, reservation@mikotel.lt, www.
mikotelgroup.com. The receptionists are cheerful and
outgoing at this modern hotel near the train station. Fortunately,
unlike its dismal surroundings the hotel’s interior is
clean and bright with the added touch of local artwork for
sale on the walls. Q26 rooms (4 singles €55, 9 doubles
€70, 4 triples €85, 2 quads €87, 6 family rooms €98).
JA6L hh
Rūdninkų Vartai B-5, Rūdninkų 15/46, tel. (+370)
5 261 39 16, fax (+370) 5 212 05 07, rudninkai@
cityhotels.lt, www.rudninkuvartai.lt. Situated at one
of the city’s former gates and just across the road from
one of the few remaining sections of the old city wall, this
reasonable budget option with plenty of exposed brickwork
for that old world feeling offers both standard rooms and
something a little bit more special. All rooms are en suite,
plus there’s free wireless internet throughout and at the
time of writing an in-house Belgian restaurant. A splendid
location right on the edge of Old Town and within easy
walking distance of the bus and train stations. Q 17 rooms
(5 singles from €49, 11 doubles from €61, 1 suite €104).
JHA6ILKXW hh
Bed & Breakfast
The Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms
to the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that
the two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United
Kingdom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run
hotel, in Lithuania it’s more of an apartment kind of thing.
Indeed, most Lithuanian B&Bs are just that. Here it can
also mean any kind of hosted accommodation, whether
being a room in a family house to something similar in
a building run by professional staff. So, not really Bed &
Breakfast as is so famous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in
doubt, make sure to ask plenty of questions before booking
something you never really wanted.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
where to stay
Bernardinų B&B House D-2, Bernardinų 5, tel.
(+370) 5 261 51 34, fax (+370) 5 260 84 10, reservation@bernardinuhouse.com,
www.bernardinuhouse.
com. An excellent value little guesthouse, smack bang
in the middle of Old Town. Q 13 rooms (140 - 300Lt).
JA6LXW
Saulės Namai J-3, Saulės 15/23, tel. (+370) 5
210 61 12, hotel@saules-namai.com, www.saulesnamai.com.
To be found not too far from the centre
in Antakalnis, five minutes from the nearest trolleybus
stop, this place can’t come recommended enough. Run
by a nice family who’ve done the design and building work
themselves, there are a number of interesting rooms
with lots of stripped pine, exposed brickwork and quirky
paintings. There’s a large kitchen where you can prepare
your own food or have it made for you, a beautiful living
room with a large fireplace and a quiet, leafy garden.
Exceptional value and highly recommended. Q 9 rooms
(singles 70 - 120Lt, doubles 140 - 200Lt, triples 160 -
220Lt). 6ILXW
Guesthouses
Ameda F-3, Latvių 27, tel. (+370) 601 704 40, hotelameda@gmail.com,
www.hotelameda.lt. Splendid
value rooms and apartments in lovely Žvėrynas with
excellent public transport connections to the city centre
or a 15-minute walk for the more energetic, all options
come with at least satellite television and internet connections,
with the recommended apartments also featuring
such homely inclusions as fireplaces and fully equipped
kitchens. Q 6 rooms (singles €25, doubles €25 - 30,
apartments €45 - 60). 6IW
August - November 2012
21

22 where to stay
Litinterp Guest House D-2, Bernardinų 7, tel.
(+370) 5 212 38 50/(+370) 689 985 17, fax (+370)
5 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.com.
Close to the Cathedral and many of the major sights,
this seasoned favourite has been providing quality, low
cost accommodation to visitors for some two decades.
Located inside a glorious historic building on one of Old
Town’s prettiest streets, facilities are basic but more than
ample, with options for everybody from single guests to
families. All rooms come with their own small kitchens
plus there’s a choice of en suite and shared bathroom
facilities. Airport pick-up and help with car rental is also
available. Q16 rooms (4 singles 80 - 100Lt, 9 doubles
140 - 160Lt, 3 triples 180 - 210Lt, 4 apartments 160 -
280Lt). JA hh
Paupio Namai I-4, Paupio 31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31
13, fax (+370) 5 264 31 12, hotel@paupio.lt, www.paupionamai.lt.
A big friendly manor house full of big friendly
staff tucked away just off the street. Here you can get just
about any combination you require, from a shared dormitory
and bathroom to self-contained apartments with en suite
facilities. The rooms are basic, clean, and fairly good value,
and if you want you can take advantage of the fully equipped
downstairs kitchen to keep costs down even further. Prices
include a large breakfast. Q 29 rooms (35 - 80Lt/person).
AR6ILW
More hotels online
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Hostels
A Hostel B-6, Sodų 8, tel. (+370) 5 215 02 70, info@
hostelsvilnius.lt, www.ahostel.lt. This well located hostel
claims to provide accommodation along the lines of the
Japanese pod system which on closer inspection appears to
be nothing more than standard bunk beds. Extras include 15
minutes of free wireless internet, no curfew and hot showers
around the clock. This is the best of their addresses. Also at
Sodų 17. Q (28 - 140Lt). JALW
Come to Vilnius B-6, Šv. Stepono 15, tel. (+370) 656
050 36, www.cometovilnius.eu. A small hostel between
the train and bus stations and Old Town, facilities are few and
far between featuring shared rooms and bathroom facilities.
The staff dish out free maps on arrival and can also arrange
everything from bicycle rental and tours to other touristrelated
services. Q6 rooms (singles €13 - 20, doubles €29,
triples €44, quads €52). TJNW
Filaretai J-4, Filaretų 17, tel. (+370) 5 215 46 27, fax
(+370) 5 212 01 49, info@filaretaihostel.lt, www.filaretaihostel.lt.
A back-to-basics hostel in the quirky Užupis
district, accommodation comes in the usual dormitory style
or, as is increasingly popular in hostels these days, with twin
rooms for more privacy. Bathroom and kitchen facilities are
shared, there’s also laundry facilities, plus, unlike some, there’s
no annoying curfew. Q20 rooms (1 single 70Lt, 7 doubles 50Lt,
2 triples 40Lt, 10 dormitory rooms 34Lt). HARW
Fortuna Hostel D-6, Pelesos 61/2, tel. (+370) 623
450 50, fax (+370) 5 260 85 89, fortunahostel@lha.
lt, www.fortunahostel.lt. From the same people as Old
Town Hostel, Fortuna is located just south of Old Town close
to the bus and train stations. Featuring lots of exposed
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

stonework alongside modern conveniences, rooms come in
range of choices from the usual dorms to twins. Everyone
speaks English, plus there’s a good kitchen and even a place
to park a car. Q (doubles 90Lt, triples 120Lt, quads 160Lt).
JA6LXW
Old Town Hostel C-5, Aušros Vartų 20-15, tel. (+370)
5 262 53 57, fax (+370) 5 268 59 67, oldtownhostels@
lha.lt, www.oldtownhostel.lt. A classic hostel in the old
sense, meaning you’re just as likely to find hard up Polish
pensioners staying here as you are middle class English
university students pretending to be poor. Ignore the fact
that it’s not actually in Old Town and don’t expect all-night
parties with new-found Australian soul mates and you’ll be
fine. Facilities are thin on the ground as one would expect,
but for the price you’d be an idiot to complain. Surplus to the
army-style barracks are a few smaller rooms with en suite
bathrooms and cooking facilities. Q (doubles 90Lt, triples
120Lt, quads 160Lt). JRW
Pogo Hostel C-2, B. Radvilaitės 3, tel. (+370) 670 795
91, hostel@pogo.lt, www.pogo.lt. From the same people
behind one of the best bars in Lithuania comes this new hostel,
located in one of the best locations in the city, clean, simple,
fun and amazingly good value for money. Rooms range from
extremely affordable singles through to dorms that sleep up to
10 and the people who run it are very friendly. An exceptionally
good option for anyone looking to meet like-minded people with
a youthful outlook and a taste for good beer. Q5 rooms (2
doubles €30, 1 9 bed mixed dorms €11, 1 6 bed mixed dorms
€12, 1 4 bed mixed dorms €12). ARW
Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre (Vilniaus Jaunųjų
Turistų Centras) I-4, Polocko 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 35
76, fax (+370) 5 262 77 42, vjtc@delfi.lt, www.vjtc.lt.
Set in a pastoral Užupis courtyard, the building is in a state of
dilapidated charm characteristic of the area. Accommodation
comes in a range of Spartan rooms that can sleep up to five,
all with shared bathroom facilities. Other temptations include
a communal kitchen and the chance to have breakfast, which
is served outside during the summer, and made for you if
you’re feeling flush. Q 16 rooms (34Lt/night). R
Short term rental
Apartments Domus247 Tel. (+370) 604 486 36, fax
(+431) 253 033 300 05, info@domus247.com, www.
domus247.com. A highly recommended agency dealing in
properties of all kinds for rent everywhere in the city and
slightly further afield. The choice of places is impressive to
say the least, and the service is outstanding. A recent attempt
to find accommodation in Vilnius for four nights during
a particularly busy period saw them offering one of their own
properties as everything else was fully booked. Marvellous.
Q 120 - 700Lt/night. J
Auksinis Trikampis C-3, Didžioji 8, tel. (+370) 655 043
09, nona_mackiene@yahoo.com, www.auksinistrikampis.
lt. A large, fully equipped apartment with two bedrooms right
in the heart of the Old Town action. Spacious and close to all
the major sights, amenities include kitchen, cable television,
wireless internet and parking facilities. See the website for
more information. Q (110 - 290Lt/night). JW
Eugenijus Apartments H-4, Vilniaus 25-1, tel. (+370)
699 424 56, eugenijp@takas.lt, www.vilniusapartments.lt.
A choice of two decent, good value apartments in
Old Town, located at street level for easy access and coming
with everything required for a self-catering stay. Close to the
main sights, the apartments are managed by a local husband
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
where to stay
and wife who run a small ceramics workshop and gallery in
the city. Other services include car and bicycle rental, guided
tours and translation services. Q 2 apartments (€30 - 40/
night). JL
Rentida Apartments B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel.
(+370) 682 281 42, gvidas@rentida.lt, www.rentida.
lt. Modern and classy apartments with all the trimmings
on a fabulous Old Town street close to the oldest church in
the city. Peaceful, and with some great views out of the windows,
facilities include wireless internet and cable television.
Q (150 - 250Lt/night). TJW
Skapo Apartments C-2, S. Skapo 8-17, tel. (+370) 610
038 54, info@skapoapartments.lt, www.skapoapartments.lt.
Fine modern apartments, beautifully restored in a
historical building close to Vilnius University, available for stays
of any length and complete with all necessary amenities.
Q (€37 - 85/night). JA6W
Stasys Apartments Tel. (+370) 699 326 72, stasys@
apartment-vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com.
A choice of several apartments to suit every taste and
budget, centrally located, and featuring everything necessary
for a pleasant, self-catering stay. Satellite television
in every apartment. Q 8 apartments (120 - 300Lt/night).
RW
Vilnius Apartments C-3/4, Stiklių 6-1, tel. (+370) 600
128 22, info@euapartments.lt, www.euapartments.lt.
A wide range of one- and two-bedroom apartments for rent
in Old Town for both short and long stays. Each apartment is
very different in style and amenities, the latter including such
useful attractions as free internet and washing machines.
Q 7 apartments (160 - 240Lt/night). J
August - November 2012
23

24 restaurants
With the exception of a handful of amusing and/
or appalling disasters, eating out in Vilnius is both
excellent and relatively affordable for all. The city’s
restaurants and cafés literally cater to taste buds of
every persuasion, offering everything from vast plates
of potato-based local specialities to a surprisingly wide
and generally palatable concoction of dishes from the
kitchens of such far away places as India and Brazil.
Service continues to be the main stumbling block even
in the most aristocratic of eateries, and is easily the
subject from which the majority of visitors gain the
most displeasure. Although the bulk of restaurants
worth visiting can be found within the city centre, the
suburbs also offer a few treats, which we list when we
feel that the plaudits is deserving. Tipping, if deserved,
is up to the diner, with 10 per cent or a rounding up of
the bill both being acceptable.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking W Wireless Internet access
X Smoking place B Outside seating
I Fireplace J Old town location
Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to
the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks.
Lithuanian
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant
in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features
pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of
potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent
of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and
is perhaps best described as a restaurant or café serving
predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites
in an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere other than in
Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the
good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call the former of
the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of
restaurant together.
Aula C-2, Pilies 11, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 73, www.
aularestoranas.lt. A mixed Lithuanian and international
menu of competent cooking brought to your table by staff
whose lack of expertise is usually more than made up for by
their friendliness. The last serving of potato pancakes eaten
here went down a treat, plus there’s the added advantage of a
downstairs live music club. Summertime brings a small terrace
and large courtyard to this classic Old Town favourite. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:30 - 01:00, Sun
10:30 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTJAUBSW
Čili Kaimas B-4, Vokiečių 8, tel. (+370) 5 231 25 36,
www.cili.lt. Walt Disney meets The Waltons inside the
country’s most popular folk restaurant chain. Resplendent
accessories include small farmyard animals to keep the children
entertained, agricultural implements on the walls and a surprisingly
friendly and efficient bunch of waitresses scuttling about in
traditional costumes. The menu of artery-clogging indigenous
dishes is pretty good considering the rate at which it’s pumped
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

out of the kitchen. An interesting point worth noting is that the
last vegetable soup we had here had bits of chicken in it. Also at
Gedimino 14. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. 16Lt.
PTJAVSW
Forto Dvaras C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 656 136
88, www.fortas.eu. An increasingly large national franchise
of folk restaurants pandering to people in danger
of becoming increasingly large themselves, Forto Dvaras
offers quality traditional Lithuanian food in a folksy interior
without going completely over the top. The food is authentic,
immensely filling if you choose the right dish, and for
the location exceptionally good value for money, whilst the
service is in general reasonably friendly and thoughtful. The
summertime outdoor seating provides some of the best
people-watching in the capital. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt.
TJABSW
Graf Zeppelin C-4, Savičiaus 9, tel. (+370) 674 629
49, www.grafzeppelin.lt. One of the city’s more clever
anomalies, bask in antiquity and fill yourself up with what’s
claimed to be the largest cepelinai in the capital. The good
value menu is made up of a range of Lithuanian and German
dishes, most notably the aforementioned blimps which now
feature as the Lithuanian national dish and that were surely
based on something the Hun brought to the country it occupied
during WWI. All in all a great place for a full blown,
gut-busting meal and an equally enjoyable atmosphere when
they’re busy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 18Lt. PJAS
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
Katpėdėlė I-1, Lukšio 34, tel. (+370) 5 278 88 14,
www.katpedele.lt. A popular national chain of restaurants
serving classic Lithuanian dishes in a folksy setting as well
as more international offerings and that old favourite the
lunchtime special offer. Find them scattered around the
city and the country. An excellent value introduction to the
wonders of local heart-blocking nosh. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Thu 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
14Lt. PABSW
Keisti Ženklai B-3, Trakų 13, tel. (+370) 5 261 07
79. Strange Signs has been busily keeping a low profile in
Old Town for a very long time indeed, a fact that deserves
some recognition. Although dining here could never really be
classed as a memorable experience, the experience is at
least worth the time, effort and money. The menu lurches
from taste bud to taste bud, offering a mind-boggling choice
of food from local specialties to average pizza. Cheap beer
too. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. 11Lt. PJAS
Koldūninė C-4, Savičiaus 6, tel. (+370) 679 262 59. For
the uninitiated, koldūnai are the Lithuanian version of ravioli,
pelmeni, pierogi etc., small pillows of dough encasing a range
of fillings. This friendly place in the heart of Old Town makes it
on the premises and serves it in two sizes. Fillings include beef,
chicken, mutton, cottage cheese and spinach plus one with
sweet berries. An excellent introduction to the simplicities of
local cuisine. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 22:00, Sat
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 12Lt. PTJSW
August - November 2012
25

26 restaurants
Lokys C-4, Stiklių 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys.
lt. One of Vilnius’ best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear)
opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in 1972
in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating back to the late
15th century and has been serving so-called traditional hunters’
dishes amidst a slightly tongue-in-cheek backdrop ever since. The
limited menu focuses on unusual dishes including quail, venison
and even beaver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep
everybody happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you
can rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experience.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. JABS
Marceliukės Klėtis I-2, Tuskulėnų 35, tel. (+370) 5 272
50 87. Fairytale waitresses deliver meals the size of your head
from a menu of traditional Lithuanian dishes featuring more
calories than there are stars in the universe. Located somewhat
strangely in the middle of a large concrete housing estate, this
barnlike restaurant is strewn with such archaic eye candy as
wooden bicycles hung from the ceiling and a pink and green
threshing machine by the front door. Large tables make this a
firm favourite for families and groups. Gentlemen confronted
with the strange machine in the toilet should know that it really
is for weeing in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 17Lt. TAEBS
Lithuanian cuisine
Classic Lithuanian cuisine belongs to a long tradition of
shared peasant gastronomy in the region, with the most
renowned dishes being found in one form or another on
the tables of neighbouring countries as well as among
the descendants of the Ashkenazi Jews. Among the most
popular ingredients are berries, mushrooms, pork, dairy
products, dark rye bread, pickles, herring, and potatoes.
The unofficial national dish is cepelinai (zeppelins), boiled
potato dumplings filled with minced pork or cottage cheese
(varškė) and similar to the Swedish kroppkaka and the
French-Canadian râpée. Originally aimed at manual labourers
working 16 hours or more a day, visiting systems
analysts may find eating more than one a problem, although
the experience is certainly recommended. Koldūnai are
the local version of ravioli, pelmeni, pierogi etc. Like many
other classic local dishes, authentic koldūnai are exceptionally
good and equally hard to find. Next up, kibinai are
meat-filled pies similar in appearance to Cornish pasties
that feature (as kybyn) as the traditional dish of the Lithuanian
Karaite, a bizarre Turko-Judaic ethnic group living in
the region since the 14th century. The best kibinai can be
found in Trakai (see p.64). Balandėliai (Polish, gołąbki),
meaning ‘little pigeons’, are minced pork-filled cabbage
rolls in a creamy sauce. The best ones take half a day to
make and are worth the wait. The classic summer dish is
šaltibarščiai (pictured), which translates as ‘cold borsch’
and is a cold soup made from beetroot and kefyras (kefir)
served with a side dish of hot potatoes. Šaltibarščiai can
be found just about everywhere during the warmer part of
the year and offers an excellent way of getting a quick and
nutritious lunch when sightseeing. Along with kepta duona,
fried black breadsticks served with garlic and/or cheese
that have been known to make people move to Lithuania,
šaltibarščiai is pretty much the only traditional local food
available to vegetarians. Also recommended and found in
restaurants and shops around the city are the baked potato
pudding known as kugelis (Yiddish, kugel), bulviniai blynai
(potato pancakes) and for dessert, lietiniai, better known
in the English-speaking world as pancakes. The Lithuanian
equivalent of bon appétit is skanaus.
Bakeries
Itališka Kepykla C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel.
(+370) 686 310 23. The main supermarket chains
in Lithuania have come a long way over the last few
years when it comes to bread, but it’s still fairly impossible
to find the perfect loaf. Hats off then to this
oasis in the dessert, the brainchild of a local lady so
enamoured by the kind of bread and pastries made
by the Italians she introduced them here. Whereas
the supermarkets get the recipes right but skimp on
the basic materials (the wrong flour, cheap fat etc.),
Itališka Kepykla uses only the best ingredients to
make bread to knock your socks off. Magnificent and
most highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JAS
Thierry Kepykla D-3, Užupio 19, tel. (+370) 676
608 89. Currently making waves as the best place in
town for croissants and coffee for breakfast at one of
just three tables, any half-way decent addition to the
generally grim selection of bakeries in Vilnius is more
than welcome. A bit out of the way at the top of a steep
Užupis hill, by all accounts the walk is worth the effort.
The ones in the city centre are yet to be tested. Also
at Švitrigailos 29. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -
18:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JASW
Senoji Pasaga C-1, Vrublevskio 2/1, tel. (+370)
687 880 40. A mildly disturbing interior that gives the
impression of a recent burglary should in no way put diners
off. The menu of local and international dishes is perfectly
fine and quite affordable, whilst the tiny secluded garden
at the back is a marvellous place for a quiet lunch during
the summer. Its location close to the Cathedral is also a
boon. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt.
PTJAUIBSW
Senoji Trobelė G-5, Naugarduko 36, tel. (+370) 609
990 02, www.senojitrobele.lt. Perfect if you’re staying
in one of the hotels nearby and worth the walk up the
hill from Old Town to eat here, this intimate folk-themed
restaurant is one of the best examples of its kind in the
country. We like the place, especially on a sunny day when
it’s possible to eat and drink on their fine small terrace.
The food is classic unpretentious local cuisine, tastes
good and is equally superb value for money. If you’d like to
take a little piece of the place home, their unique crockery
is available for sale.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 -
23:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt.TAULVBSW
Žemaičiai B-4, Vokiečių 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 65
73, www.zemaiciai.lt. A brilliant collection of medieval
cellars designed for a slightly upmarket folk-themed
dining experience, ignore the international dishes and
plunge into the traditional food. Those eating in groups
should consider one of the big mixed platters, which are
good value and fun to share. Also worth trying is the fresh
in-house beer, made in the old-fashioned unpasteurised
fashion and a rare treat indeed. Also check out their fast
weekday lunch if you’re in a hurry. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
30Lt. JABS
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Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Argentinean
El Gaucho Sano C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77
73, www.atrium.lt. This dark downstairs restaurant is
prized by those in the know for its steaks, but there’s also
plenty of other Argentinean specialities on offer for those who
like to experiment, making El Gaucho Sano an ideal place to
head for diners bored of the usual offerings around town. This
time round we went for the sirloin steak, which was ample in
proportions, cooked to perfection and extremely good value
considering this is basically a hotel restaurant. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. 60Lt. PJASW
Armenian
Ararat H-5, Kauno 3a, tel. (+370) 5 233 45 69, www.
araratas.lt. Nobody cooks meat better than the people
from the Caucasus and the people who cook it in this new
Armenian restaurant are no exception to the fact. The menu
of grilled meat dishes is impressive, not least because they
all taste magnificent and leave diners with the kind of postmeal
glowing sensation that only a handful of restaurants can
deliver. The service is good too, and the bill looks like a typo.
Excellent value for money indeed and well worth the slight
detour required to eat here. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. PTABSW
Asian
Tokyo China A-1, A. Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 620 241
16, www.cili.lt. You’ve got to hand it to these people, they’re
not stupid. Taking advantage of the current obsession with
sushi, Tokyo China has sprung up in the guise of an Asian
restaurant offering a range of Asian dishes that’s really just
a sushi joint underneath. If you can’t get to the party first,
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
come in disguise. The food is good by the way, although
the friendly and attentive service is a wee bit over the top.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJAVBS
Wok & Roll H-5, Šv. Stepono 19, tel. (+370) 642 444
40. Currently making waves among the undergroundesque
fashionistas of Vilnius, this slightly out of the way little hit is
a cross between a classic Asian fast food restaurant and a
DJ bar. The food, which also includes sandwiches and soup,
is passable if not exactly legendary and if you hit it on a
good night you’ll certainly enjoy the vibe. A good option for a
few beers among interesting people with the added bonus
of simple food on tap to stave off the hunger. Wok & Roll will
also be dishing out food for the duration of the summer from
the side of a van parked up in Žvėrynas by the (F-3) footbridge
that leads to Vingio Parkas. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
15:00 - 23:00. 6VEBSW
Brazilian
Grill Brazil C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 43 61, www.
grillbrazil.lt. A marvellous restaurant specialising in churrasco
and espeto corrido cuisine, which for the uninitiated is
a Brazilian buffet extravaganza wherein diners help themselves
to endless portions of salad and other dishes whilst a procession
of waiters do the rounds armed with large skewers loaded
with grilled meat which is cut at the table and dropped onto the
plate. Unquestionably one of the best restaurants in the country,
there’s also an accompanying set menu for the less adventurous.
Their Old Town venture is geared slightly more towards
the tourist market, whereas their other place on the top floor
of Panorama is a much more local affair. Both are excellent and
highly recommended. Q Open Wed, Thu, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 26Lt. PJA
August - November 2012
27

28 restaurants
British
Bokšto Vartai C-3, Bokšto 2, tel. (+370) 5 260 96
64. Popular with locals and foreigners alike, this two-floor
Old Town restaurant in a fabulous historical building is a
joint Lithuanian-British venture that fuses together the best
aspects of both cultures. The menu is impressive and has
yet to disappoint, whether it’s their classic English breakfast
or the monster burgers and fries. There’s a great selection
of beers at good prices too, plus the occasional evening of
live music. QOpen Mon, Tue 12:00 - 16:00, Wed 12:00 -
23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 25Lt.
PJASW
Chinese
Didžioji Kinija H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 263
63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. One of a small chain of Chinese
restaurants in town, all of them worthy of further culinary
investigation, Didžioji Kinija’s location may not be exactly
central but is certainly calling for a visit. As with the vast
majority of Chinese food in Vilnius, this is the real thing, not
the adulterated imitation usually served up in places like the
UK. The menu itself is massive, not unlike the actual dishes
of which there’s a good range to suit all, including vegetarians.
The current business lunch served here, which can be eaten
in-house or taken away, is ridiculously good value indeed.
Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTAVBSW
Fine dining
California Gourmet C-5, Subačiaus 2 (Ramada Hotel
& Suites Vilnius), tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, www.
californiagourmet.lt. The five-star Ramada Hotel & Suites
Vilnius’ flagship gourmet restaurant offers the ultimate in
dining, from the sophisticated décor through to the mouth-
watering food. Billed as the first gourmet restaurant in
Lithuania, the food here is taken very seriously indeed and
gets most of its inspiration from the melting pot of cuisines
coming out of the United States. The menu is impressive
and includes a wealth of classy dishes from a much talkedabout
Caesar salad to fresh lobster to foie gras. QOpen
18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 65Lt.
PTJAULBSW
La Provence B-4, Vokiečių 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 02
57, www.laprovence.lt. This Vilnius favourite specialising
in Mediterranean cooking at its best is generally crowded
with tables full of well-heeled locals and foreigners tucking
into a mouth-watering range of dishes including fish,
grilled meat and a couple of vegetarian options. Prepared
and delivered with the height of care, attention and even a
little theatre, despite its reputation as a rather expensive
restaurant, not only is it worth the money here there are
also a number of dishes that won’t break the bank. Having
said that, they do stock a couple of bottles of champagne
for 1,000Lt a pop. Magnificent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 70Lt.
PTJAS
Narutis Restaurant C-2/3, Pilies 24 (The Narutis Hotel -
Preferred Boutique), tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, www.narutis.
com. Lush burgundy and orange fabrics and glorious 18thcentury
frescoes, white tablecloths and staff with impeccable
style, that’s what people have grown to expect in this top notch
Old Town hotel restaurant. There’s plenty of imitators hereabouts,
but in Naručio Restoranas you get the real thing, meaning great
service and great food. The menu features an imaginative
concoction of dishes from around the world, including one of the
best kybyn (a Lithuanian Karaite speciality) in the country to a
mouth-watering Chilean sea bass. Using fresh ingredients to
create works of art on every plate, this one really is hard to beat.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 65Lt. PTJABSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370) 5
264 95 80, www.stikliaihotel.lt. A small but magnificent
menu of wonderful dishes featuring such classic favourites
as black truffles and a proper sorbet, all served from soup
to nuts by impeccable staff in truly sumptuous surroundings.
Whereas most hotel restaurants are best avoided, this one
is more than an exception. Backpackers and stag parties
might like to find somewhere else to eat. People with style
who know a good thing when they see it and who like to
impress might like to book a table. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00,
18:00 - 23:30. Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. 90Lt.
PTJAUBW
French
Aux Champs - Elysées A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5
205 81 92, info@mlgrupe.com, www.eliziejauslaukai.
lt. Popular with a wide range of locals and foreigners alike,
the décor is French without being over the top and the
menu, including plenty of French favourites including snails
and that also features weekly changing dishes, is genuinely
excellent. There’s pleasant live music every Thursday from
18:00 too.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. JA
Balzac C-4, Savičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 614 892 23,
www.balzac.lt. From the fun tables in the little back room
to the slightly punky waitress to the fact that the place was
heaving on a Monday night to the amusing music policy,
everything during our last outing here was just right. The
small menu also scored very well, with the red pepper
soup and the steak being particularly exceptional. Recommended
for all types of dining. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00,
Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
30Lt. PTJABS
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restaurants
August - November 2012
29

30 restaurants
Central Asian
Čingischanas (Genghis Khan) A - 3, J.
Basanavičiaus 8/1, tel. (+370) 619 128 16, www.
restoranas.net. Chefs from Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan,
Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan have all contributed their
own dishes to Lithuania’s only truly authentic Central
Asian restaurant. Bursting with aromatic and spicy dishes
you’ve probably never eaten before, the décor may be a
little on the kitsch side but then that’s all part of the experience.
Recommended for novelty value if not the food
itself. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PJUES
Brasserie de Verres en Vers C-4, Didžioji 35/2 (Radisson
Blu Astorija Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 236 08 40, www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. As one would expect from
the Radisson brand, their in-house Vilnius Old Town restaurant
is pure top class. Tastefully decorated in cool browns, eat in a
choice of two halls, one with a little privacy and the other with
large windows looking out onto the street outside. The small
but well-chosen menu features a cavalcade of classics with
a predominantly French flavour. Recommended is the slow
roasted rabbit with sauté potatoes. The service is friendly and
attentive QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. 100Lt. PJAUBW
Marché de Provence C-3, Pilies 27, tel. (+370) 686
777 07. A really great-looking restaurant serving a limited
choice of dishes from France and the Mediterranean region
in general. We had a knockout salad followed by a cheese
risotto, one of the hardest dishes to make well and that the
chef made pretty much to perfection. There’s a good wine
list too, the staff know what they’re talking about and the
use of fresh herbs in every dish really helps make the place
stand out from the crowd. A small terrace out the back of the
building opens during the warmer part of the year. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. PJABS
German
Bunte Gans C-5/6, Aušros Vartų 11, tel. (+370) 5 212
83 12, www.buntegans.lt. Bunte Gans churns out excellent
German cuisine and other dishes in this Old Town favourite. The
imaginative, good value food on offer includes schnitzels, bratwurst,
bangers and mash, lamb, boar, beef steaks, fresh fish and
the house special dish of goose with fried potatoes and a host
of other vegetables. There’s live music during the weekends and
an extensive range of drinks including Riesling, Grauer Burgunder
and the recommended German beer Zoller-Hof from Schwabia.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. 35Lt.TJAEBSW
Georgian
NEW
Tiflisi-Dukani A-4, Naugarduko 12, tel. (+370) 656
228 05. Featuring pleasant décor, an equally agreeable
staff and some real magic taking place in the kitchen, Tiflisi
Dukani’s menu features enough Caucasian cuisine to keep
mouths watering for months to come. Because this is a real
Georgian restaurant owned and run by people who know
their business, the staff are on hand to advise as to what
dishes to order. Highly recommended are any of the Georgian
soups and the magnificent grilled meats. An extensive wine
menu and plenty of classic desserts finishes everything off
perfectly.QOpen 10:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 23:00.
25Lt. PTAUVEBSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Indian
Indian Maharaja B-3, Trakų 4, tel. (+370) 662 116
00, www.indianmaharaja.lt. What started out as a
serious-looking contender to the unbeatable Sue’s Indian
Raja has over a relatively short period of time opted for the
tedious Lithuanian habit of going downhill fast. You tend
to get what you pay for in life, which in the case of Indian
Maharaja is at best average Indian food that panders more
and more to local tastes. Although the food is by no means
bad, proper Indian food needs to be, well, proper, and this
is no longer the case here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. 15Lt.
PJAVSW
Sue’s Indian Raja B-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18
88, www.suesindianraja.lt. Cynics may baulk at the prices
here, but to anyone with a sense of what an outstanding
restaurant is all about, Sue’s Indian Raja is simply the best
place to eat in Vilnius and is consequently worth every penny.
Overseen with discreet showman flair by living legend Wing
Commander Rajinder Chaudhary, the exemplary dishes are
all made with hand-mixed spices for the absolute best in
authenticity. The staff are on hand to advise, the spiciness
of a dish can be raised or lowered on demand and the view of
the Cathedral is the absolute icing on the cake. The perfect
cure for just about any ailment, go for a selection of bhajis
and pakoras to start with and follow it up with the ultimate
Butter Chicken. Highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
30Lt. PTJAVBSW
International
Bistro 18 C-3, Stiklių 18, tel. (+370) 677 720 91, www.
bistro18.lt. A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro
18 specialises primarily in dishes from the world of European
seasonal cuisine including French onion soup, risotto, pasta and
scores of meat-heavy dishes such as beef and rabbit. There’s
pudding too, and the aforementioned wine shop stocks a huge
selection of booze. There’s little sympathy for vegetarians here,
but if you’re into classy dining on one of Vilnius’ poshest streets
this might just be the place for you. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PTJAUS
Cozy C-3, Dominikonų 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37,
www.cozy.lt. By the time most people read this Cozy
should be sporting new furniture, freshly painted walls and
a highly recommended photography exhibition on the walls,
although this shouldn’t prevent people from visiting before
the makeover. This Dutch-owned masterpiece is one of the
jewels in the crown of the Lithuanian capital, providing solace
for a wide range of creative and media types who keep coming
back because it’s friendly, the food’s very good and the bar is
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
one of the best bars in the city for getting delightfully tipsy at.
Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 25Lt. PJABSW
Buffet express
Ponių Laimė C-3, Stiklių 14/1, tel. (+370) 5 264 95
81. A combined patisserie and buffet restaurant with a
distinctly feminine feel to the place, this is eating in a hurry
at its best. The selection of ready-to-eat food may not be
the largest in town, but the dishes are imaginative, taste
superb and are, considering the location, excellent value
for money. Just make sure you’ve got some cash on you,
as they still don’t take credit cards. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PTJS
August - November 2012
31

32 restaurants
NEW
Druskos Namai I-4, Užupio 30, tel. (+370) 5 215 30
04, info@druskosnamai.lt, www.druskosnamai.lt. The
philosophy behind the recently opened Druskos Namai is
to provide quality international food at affordable prices
sourced as much as possible from local farms. This is
generally the best way to establishing yourself as a quality
restaurant as it ensures both food to talk about and a
constantly changing menu that keep the punters coming
again and again. Complete with a small outdoor courtyard
(booking at peak times is highly recommended), we plucked
for the gazpacho, the perfect choice for daytime outdoor
eating, and a great little dish of pork with cherry tomatoes
and mashed potato to die for. Certainly worth the struggle
up the hill to get there. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. 30Lt. JABW
Esse G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 25 11,
www.esse.lt. A bustling restaurant in the city centre with an
emphasis on Italian and Lithuanian cuisine, well-trained staff
ferry a cavalcade of good-looking dishes to a predominantly
business class clientèle. Among the favourite fare on offer
are the mussels in a wine and cream sauce plus a highly
recommended changing business lunch menu served during
the working week between 11:00 and 16:00. There’s also
over 100 wines to choose from plus, for those who can’t
stand to be away from the office, that Vilnius rarity, free wireless
internet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PTJAEBSW
Grill Inn B-3, Dominikonų 6, tel. (+370) 600 019 77,
www.grillinn.lt. Friendly and well turned-out staff are on
hand to serve a range of superb, meat-heavy dishes and a
few peasant classics such as boiled pigs’ ears alongside a
good choice of beers from local small breweries. There’s a
choice of rooms in which to dine as well as the option of propping
up the bar and getting quietly sloshed, whilst during the
summer the addition of a small terrace out the back in which
a young member of staff is known to appear with a barbecue
and start grilling meat is a very welcome addition indeed.
Pretty much perfect for any occasion. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. JAUEBSW
Holy Miko’s C-3, Šv. Mykolo 4, tel. (+370) 688 222
10, www.holymikos.lt. A small, family-run restaurant on
a quiet Old Town street specialising in both Lithuanian and
international dishes served in sumptuous surroundings,
the food is predominantly nouvelle cuisine and is exquisitely
presented. There’s also an imaginative, changing
daily lunch special for a good price and a remarkably good
wine list. A good choice for the romantically inclined and/
or small business occasions, Holy Miko’s also features an
interesting selection of live music events. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 25Lt.
TJAESW
Jalta F-3, Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 636 102 52. Going
from strength to strength, Jalta is an excellent reason to
visit the leafy suburb populated with more than its fair
share of wooden houses that’s Žvėrynas. The food leans
in the direction of healthy, offering plenty of dishes made
from locally sourced ingredients whilst they also organise
a wealth of evening events including DJs in the greenhouse
in the front garden. Complete with a peaceful, tree-laden
terrace that’s a real knockout during the warmer part
of the year, expect plenty of red-eyed alternative types
turning up on bicycles. Definitely recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
25Lt. TENBSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Kalvarijų 1 H-3, Kalvarijų 1, tel. (+370) 671 786 76.
Sadly no longer possessing their rather splendid outdoor
terrace, Kalvarijų 1 is still worth a visit if only for the unusually
friendly staff. Touting itself as an international restaurant,
the place is more than a place to dine in, although the food
is definitely worth further investigation. This is also a fine
spot for a few drinks in the evening, attracting an interesting
mix of locals who, at least judging from our visits, tend
to be a little more lively than the usual Vilnius restaurant
goer. A good option if you find yourself on the north side
of the river. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 24Lt.
TAESW
Kitchen C-3, Didžioji 11, tel. (+370) 5 231 38 84. An
angular experience with plenty of creamy shades and exposed
wooden features, this simple offering not only keeps
the décor to a minimum but also doesn’t get carried away
with the menu. The recommended dishes on offer include
a recently eaten plate of miniature fishcakes that despite
their laughable size tasted superb. There’s an extensive
wine list too. A good choice for those wanting to impress
without breaking the bank. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed
Sun, Mon June - August. 24Lt. PTJASW
La Pergola B-5, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22.
White tablecloth gourmet dining in sumptuous surroundings
inside the Grotthuss hotel, or, during the warmer months,
on their lovely terrace just off a quiet street in the heart of
Old Town. The menu of international dishes includes plenty
of options to keep everybody happy, and is accompanied
by an equally admirable wine list. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. 60Lt. PTJAULBW
Cafés
Coffee Inn A-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. (+370) 655 777
63. One of the hippest addresses in town, find two floors
of tables occupied by brightly coloured students taking
advantage of the free wireless internet and updating their
Facebook pages on their iPhones. Coffee, sandwiches,
muffins, juice etc. Also at Trakų 7, Pilies 3, Gedimino 2,
Gedimino 9, Gedimino 24, Gedimino 52, Didžioji 6, Didžioji
40, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa).
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 -
24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PJBSW
NEW
Salentino Café C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370)
676 820 15. Owned and operated by the club with
the same name inside the same building, this quaint
little café overlooking Town Hall Square sells a range
of drinks and snacks and for the summer features
a super little terrace on which to sit and watch the
hordes of tourists go trudging by. QOpen 24hrs. 7Lt.
PJAVBSW
Šviežia Kava B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 260
96 53, www.svieziakava.lt. One of the country’s
top coffee house chains, Šviežia Kava’s Gedimino 9
outlet is housed inside a bookshop no less, making
for the perfect environment to drink quality espresso
and the like amidst a wealth of literature. Keep an eye
out for their other branches around the city centre.
Also at Gedimino 35, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos
16 (VCUP), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Savanorių 22, J.
Balčikonio 3. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
PJAUSW
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
August - November 2012
33

34 restaurants
NEW
Lauro Lapas A-2, Pamėnkalnio 24, tel. (+370) 674
510 45, www.laurolapas.lt. A brave new venture by two
young local chefs promising both quality and innovation, Lauro
Lapas offers a limited choice of à la carte dining plus dishes
from a daily specials menu. The food features such rarities in
Lithuania as pheasant alongside a more conservative menu of
international food all cooked with panache and a twist. And if
you like twists, despite the ‘food and wine’ subtext in the full
restaurant title, at the time of visiting they were still waiting
for an alcohol license. We hope to have a more substantial
review later in the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. 35Lt. JAW
Medininkai C-5, Aušros Vartų 8, tel. (+370) 600
864 91, www.medininkai.lt. One of Vilnius’ oldest and
most well respected restaurants serves up sumptuous
international food in a white tablecloth atmosphere in a
choice of several halls as well as outside in a lovely 16thcentury
courtyard during the summer. The menu features
all manner of good things, from fresh seafood to pasta to
some fine grilled meat, all overseen by an award-winning
chef who maintains high standards throughout. Part of the
classy Europa Royale hotel, diners can also take advantage
of the adjoining hotel bar before or after their meal.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. TJABSW
Neringa H-4, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 58,
www.restoranasneringa.lt. A former nomenklatura
favourite and still pulling in the cream of the city’s slightly
older sophisticates, this positively mammoth restaurant
features two dining halls separated by a bar with a fountain
in it. Of particular interest are the original 1959 murals,
protected by the State along with much of the rest of the
interior. The international food on offer is good, honest
fare, although not likely to win any awards. The desserts
are particularly fine, making this marvellous institution
a good place to visit regardless of whether you’re after
a full meal or not. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00
- 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 30Lt.
PTJAUBSW
Prie Katedros B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 605 775
55, www.priekatedros.lt. Two recent visits to Prie Katedros
have both been entirely positive, not least in part to the totally
superb beer they brew on the premises of which the honey
variety tastes like no other beer we’ve tasted and leaves one
delightfully wobbly after just a couple. The food is also magnificent,
with the soups worthy of a massive round of applause
on their own. The beer snacks are excellent too, plus there’s
free wireless internet and a spooky-looking hologram to greet
you at the bottom of the stairs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu
10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJABSW
Fish
Žuvinė C-4, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 682 191 72,
www.zuvine.lt. From the same stable as the people
with the same name in Palanga, the place is now fully up
and running and serving a select range of predominantly
locally caught fish accompanied with all manner of fancy
additions. The style is very much upscale, the food is
impressive and the location inside the historical Town
Hall is more or less unbeatable. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
32Lt. PTJABSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

NEW
Rib Room H-3, Šeimyniškių 1 (Holiday Inn), tel.
(+370) 5 210 30 12, www.ribroom.lt. The recently
refashioned restaurant inside Vilnius’ Holiday Inn hotel has
also seen a revamp of its menu. Whilst still offering an extensive
range of international dishes, they’ve really pushed
the boat out here and now include several rib dishes that
they claim to serve in surprisingly different ways. It all
certainly looks impressive, plus there’s plenty of other
options including a couple of classic sandwiches served
with fries, Crème Brûlée and one of the best-looking business
lunches in the city. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
07:30 - 23:00. 40Lt. PTJAUBSW
Riverside H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Lietuva), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 21, www.riverside.lt. Consistently
great food and service courtesy of this exemplary
in-house hotel restaurant, the well-chosen international menu
may not be the cheapest in the city but is worth the trip over
the river to sample from it. As well as serving one of the best
buffet breakfasts in town, there’s also an excellent buffet lunch
and plenty of dishes from the menu until late. The outdoor
summer terrace, opposite the increasingly popular area by
the river, is a fine place to visit, even if only for a drink. QOpen
06:30 - 23:00. 45Lt. PTAULBSW
Roast & Beer Pub B-1, Tilto 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 48 47,
www.roastandbeer.lt. A self-styled antidote to the stresses
of modern living, this Russian-owned venture is awash with
wooden benches, photographs of celebrities, cheery waitresses
and upbeat pop music. Designed to resemble that old
favourite an English pub and aimed at a slightly older clientele
of 20-somethings and upwards, the menu focuses primarily
on English and Bavarian cuisine. Highly recommended is the
marvellous steak, egg and chips. As of the summer 2012 they
also have premises on Vilnius’ main street. Also at Gedimino
26. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
06:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PJASW
Sensus Grill & Wine B-2, Totorių 16, tel. (+370) 5 261
46 93, www.bonussensus.lt. A very nice restaurant indeed
that also knocks out one of the city’s better business lunches
during the week, this two-floored affair uses fresh ingredients
and even bakes its own bread. The menu includes a small
selection of good things including steak, grilled tuna, pasta
and a few decent soups. There’s a recommended drinks menu
to accompany too. An excellent choice for a sophisticated
blow out that won’t break the bank. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. PTJABS
Sonnets D-2, Bernardinų 8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel.
(+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. That rare treat
a hotel restaurant worth eating in, the Shakespeare’s in-house
nosh-pit excels where others barely get off the ground. Sumptuous
and elegant, everything here is polished to near perfection.
A diverse menu tempts diners with all manner of delicacies
from classic Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All
overseen by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a
little heavy but is worth every penny. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PTJALBSW
Tores I-4, Užupio 40, tel. (+370) 656 490 32, www.tores.
lt. They’ve got lovely distressed furniture inside, with a jumble
of chairs and tables ready for the demolishing of a small choice
of Lithuanian and international dishes including that rarity
cauliflower cheese, all washed down with a range of beers and
wines from around the world. What really sets this place apart
though is the terrace, one of the best in the city when it’s open,
and featuring a delightful view of Old Town spread out below.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. TABSW
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
August - November 2012
35

36 restaurants
PIZZAS, PASTAS
starting
from
SALADS
starting
from
International fast-casual
restaurant concept
now in Vilnius!
Best venue in town!
13.90 LTL
10.90 LTL
Veranda F-2, Kęstučio 39, tel. (+370) 5 273 01 07. Another
Žvėrynas classic, Veranda is a great place to eat in, to have too
many beers with a friend in or to take a fussy elderly relative to.
The international and Lithuanian food is surprisingly good plus
there’s a superb selection of booze including Guinness, Leffe and
draught Bernard. There’s live music several evenings a week, and
out the back is a large garden complete with barbecue for splendidly
lazy Sunday summer afternoons. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. 16Lt. TAEBSW
Door smarts
Open Atidaryta
Closed Uždaryta
Push Stumti
Pull Traukti
WWW.VAPIANO.LT
VILNIUS TALLINN STOCKHOLM LONDON VIENNA AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG COLOGNE BUDAPEST
Zoe’s Bar & Grill B-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5
212 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Although by no
means extravagant, you get what you pay for, which here
is quality food prepared in an open kitchen and served
by waiting staff genuinely happy to see you. The décor
has an upmarket-diner feel to it, plus there are a couple
of excellent beers to compliment the food. Consistently
great, which is a very rare thing indeed in this city. Recommended.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu,
Fri 11:30 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
27Lt. PTJABS
Italian
Da Antonio B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 01 09,
www.antonio.lt. An old favourite with several embassies in
town, Da Antonio is everything an Italian restaurant should
be. Classy without any unnecessary frills and with superb
people-watching windows at the front, native Italian chef
Manfredo Molteni oversees a menu including fresh fish soup,
grilled beef fillet and a wealth of great pasta dishes for meat
eaters and vegetarians alike. There’s a great choice of Italian
wines to compliment plus some truly gut-busting desserts
for those who can cram a little more in. Also at L. Stuokos-
Gucevičiaus 1 (Amberton Hotel), Vilniaus 6/16. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 50Lt.
PTJABS
Fiorentino C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 09
25, www.fiorentino.lt. A good choice of Tuscan dishes
with accompanying Tuscan wine, all overseen by an Italian
from the region with the kind of passion sadly almost never
seen in the city. Inside it’s all plain white interiors and specials
chalked on the blackboard, whilst the warmer months add
a magnificent 16th-century Renaissance courtyard into the
bargain. Tuscany is of course considered the birthplace of
the Renaissance, so it’s rather fitting that the restaurant
should be here. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Fri
11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt.
TJABW
Osteria da Luca B-4, Trakų 11/2, tel. (+370) 679 594
20. Not your typical Italian restaurant, Osteria da Luca opts
for a more nouvelle cuisine approach to its cooking and does
it surprisingly well. Situated inside a fine Old Town building
with a snazzy dining area at ground level and an atmospheric
cellar, there’s also the option during the summer on its small
outdoor terrace opposite the fine Franciscan Church. We
were particularly impressed with the fresh pasta, although
there’s plenty more on offer besides but be warned that this
is nouvelle cuisine, meaning most of the things on the menu
aren’t going to fill you up. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 -
24:00. Closed Sun. 25 Lt. PABSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

St. Valentino B-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 652
657 77, www.stvalentino.lt. An unbeatable location
and years of good service mark St. Valentino out as one
of Vilnius’ most beloved and respected restaurants by the
city’s business community and wealthy citizens who continue
to favour the place over any other. Whilst wolfing down a
plate of their excellent Italian food, expect to rub shoulders
with anyone from foreign millionaires to politicians to trophy
wives. Choose to dine in discreet comfort, with the help of a
television or, as the weather improves outside on their great
little people-watching terrace. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri
07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 35Lt.
PTJABSW
Vapiano H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5
238 34 89, www.vapiano.lt. Redolent of a millionaire’s
greenhouse, it’s all stone, marble and oak with a particular
emphasis on flora and natural light in here, the perfect environment
in fact for quality Italian food in the city. Featuring
open kitchens making pasta, salads and pizza, the food is
made using fresh ingredients and comes in ample portions.
We’ve eaten here four times now and can’t complain at all.
A super place to eat in an area crying out for this kind of
quality. Note that the kitchen closes 30 minutes before they
lock the doors. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
20Lt. PTABSW
Japanese
Labuki C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 88. With
suave surroundings and a choice of rooms including a main area
with large windows overlooking the Town Hall, Labuki offers a
wealth of dishes to please all tastes and budgets. The goodlooking
sushi sets are well priced and flavoured, the tempura is
terrific and the solitary noodle dish with beef is absolutely out
of this world. The Korean chef also makes a mean soup and
the classic Oriental desserts are very good indeed. There are
fresh flowers on the tables, the service is friendly and there’s
also a good value business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat
with a knife and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when
ordering their food. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 240 55
55. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PJAVBSW
Miyako H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 618
521 12, www.miyako.lt. Miyako provides the full Japanese
experience without shoving it down your throat. What you
should shove down your throat are selections from the sushi
and sashimi menus, all prepared in the front bar area, and
all very good indeed for Vilnius. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. 25Lt. PTAS
Ice-cream
Soprano C-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 60 42,
www.soprano.lt. Our last outing here involved entertaining
a couple of under-sevens who demolished so
much cake and ice cream they had to be hosed down
before leaving. The treats on offer really are exceptionally
good at any time of year. The ice-cream is made locally
to a traditional Italian recipe. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
PJABSW
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
August - November 2012
37

38 restaurants
Fun
René C-4, M. Antokolskio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212
68 58. The winner of the 2011 longest wait for food
competition by at least 30 minutes (the total time was
getting dangerously close to an hour and a half), René’s
various attempts at quirkiness through the connection
between its name and a certain Belgian artist are wearing
a bit thin to say the least. Bowler-hatted waitresses and
the opportunity to draw on the tables may have some in
raptures but when it’s all accompanied by a slip in general
standards the whole thing can start to look like a bit of a
joke. The food is good although by no means outstanding
and Belgian beer is now available in several places
around the city. When they get the food right here they
really get it right, but as with so many places in Lithuania
they just can’t seem to get it right all the time. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. 28Lt. PTAUBSW
Studio 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 698 529 99,
hello@studio9.lt. Yes, yes, yes and yes again! Hats off
to the good people of Vilnius who strive to make the city
a better place such as the owners of Studio 9, a marvellous
addition to the capital’s list of places to go out. Reinventing
the bar and grill experience by screwing angle
poise lamps to every available surface and promoting a
superb recorded and live music policy, there’s hamburgers
to be had, beer to be drunk and a friendly crowd of
mostly young, educated and liberally-inclined locals
currently packing the place out. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Thu 10:00 - 03:00, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 05:00,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. 20Lt. PJAEBS
Osaka A-2, Vilniaus 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 71 76, www.
osaka.lt. Recommended quality Japanese classic and modern
favourites including nigiri sushi, hoso maki, sashimi, pungent
spicy soups, noodles and more inside a wee little restaurant
between Old Town and Gedimino. Ideal for meals out, Osaka
also deliver and provide good value takeaway lunch sets. Unlike
many others in town, it also manages to keep its standards
high and is very well regarded by many who know a thing or
two about Japanese food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PTJAVBSW
Shanti A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 261 29 51. Reassuringly
pricey in the way only a Slavic-styled Oriental restaurant
can be, this is pure class without the unnecessary ostentatious
overkill. The food is gaining a reputation as being the real
deal, and everything appears to be in perfect working order.
The aforementioned reason for visiting stretches all the Asian
boundaries, with a menu featuring classic dishes from a number
of different regional cuisines as well as some truly outstanding
fushion offerings.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. TJABSW
Juice bars
Sulčius B-2, Totorių 15, tel. (+370) 603 531 02. Instantly
recognisable if you’ve ever been to Brighton or Berlin, this
handsome-looking little juice bar that bears more than a
passing resemblance to a 1970s hippy’s kitchen also sells
a wealth of other things from biodegradable washing powder
to samosas. The juice in question, which could do with being
a little colder, is concocted by flustered girls with nose rings
to a soundtrack courtesy of Bob Marley. Limited seating is
available if you don’t want to ingest your vitamins on the hoof.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
PJNSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Kebabs
Baku-Ceyhan C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 607 747 27,
www.eurodoner.lt. Don’t let the stereotype fool you, for
what appears at first glance to be just another kebab shop is
hiding a proper restaurant serving not only excellent kebabs
in the finest Turkish tradition but whose menu also features
a few splendid dishes from Azerbaijan and Georgia. For those
who like their meat of the highest quality and prepared in a
way only those from the Caucasus can do, this is definitely one
for the 2012 dinner diary. QOpen 24hrs. 10Lt. JAS
Korean
Sura H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 277 70 00, www.
sura.lt. A brilliantly thrown-together design of bare concrete,
flashing lights and a few more conservative elements surround
diners whilst they feast on a menu made up of mostly
decent sushi plus a few classic Korean dishes. The pulkogi
was a bit lacking in vegetables but the beef was good and
the sauce was exceptional. They even serve it with short
grain rice for that final authentic touch. The giggling (homegrown)
waitresses are fun too, although why they chose to
put it in a shopping centre in the middle of nowhere with a
rather depressing view is hard to fathom. Definitely worth the
bother anyway. A taxi there if called in advance is about 10Lt.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 20Lt. PTASW
Lithuanian Karaite
Kibin Inn A-2, Vilniaus 21, tel. (+370) 676 444 22,
www.kibininn.lt. Kibin, kybyn, kibinai, however you
choose to spell it, one of the most popular dishes in the eastern
half of the country comes from the Lithuanian Karaite
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
(or Karaim), a mysterious Turkish sect embracing elements
of Judaism and Islam who’ve been resident in the area for
600 years and whose national dish is a Cornish pasty-type
affair usually filled with mutton or pork and dripping with
fat. Delicious indeed. This strangely decorated Lithuanian
celebration of the food is currently the best place in town
to try them. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. 6Lt.
PTJABSW
Fusion
Coco Restobar B-2, Labdarių 8, tel. (+370) 5 212
29 09. A huge padded mirror over the door marks the
spot where Coco Restobar can be located. Inside is a
well though-out affair populated with a mostly young
and intelligent crowd who when they’re not drinking and
ogling the DJs take advantage of a cracking little changing
menu of great experimental food with a distinctive
Asian twist. A small garden should also open as soon
as the weather improves. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABSW
Reinis The Cook Ševčenkos 16a (Daiktų
Viešbutis), tel. (+370) 662 743 39. Reinaldas churns
out a range of interesting, good-looking dishes using a
blend of sound knowledge and improvisation. Somewhere
between a café and a restaurant, find it inside one of the
most fashionable designer shops in the city. Top marks
for joining the 21st century. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. 15Lt. PTNSW
August - November 2012
39

40 restaurants
Mexican
Sofa de Pancho B-5, Visų Šventųjų 5, tel. (+370) 673
890 02. We like what’s currently going on in this part of town.
Like much of the service, openings may be slow but they’re
always interesting. Sofa de Pancho may not have any Mexicans
working in the open kitchen but that doesn’t stop them from
being enthusiastic and actually not too bad at cooking. Probably
the best thing about the place though, like the bar next
door, is that everything’s been thrown together in a jumble-sale
fashion that quite simply adds a touch of class to a city with
just too many sterile restaurants. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat
13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 19Lt. TJABSW
Tres Mexicanos C-2, Tilto 2, tel. (+370) 674 186 00,
www.tresmexicanos.lt. Freshly decorated for 2012, the
Mexican-owned Tres Mexicanos continues to be the best place
in town for authentic Mexican food. Boasting a superb location
just around the corner from the Cathedral, this intimate, brightly
decorated affair features all the classic dishes plus proper beer
to wash it down with, all overseen by people in the kitchen who
know how to make the stuff and waiting staff who can advise on
important issues such as which dish is likely to blow your head
off. Further proof that Vilnius is no longer a provincial backwater
but a city to be reckoned with. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 21Lt. PJABS
Pancakes
La Crepe A-1, Gedimino 13, tel. (+370) 616 465 49, www.
lacrepe.lt. Featuring a fairly gargantuan collection of pancakes
both sweet and sour in the perfect central location, as well as
serving the aforementioned blynai this is also a worthy place for
a quick coffee and a slice of cake. Popular with the local workers
in the area, the menu extends well beyond the pancake zone to
include hot dishes from both home and abroad and that all time
favourite, pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. JAB
Fast food
KFC G-3/4, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 205 99
72. The main Vilnius address for the Lithuanian KFC
franchise is a large building located close to Gedimino and
the river in the city centre. Serving up all your favourite
KFC dishes, the place is genuinely worth a visit if you’re
a fan of Colonel Sanders as, unlike many other places to
eat in town, the owners keep a close eye on things. They
also have counter on the top floor of the Ozas shopping
centre if you happen to be visiting. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas).
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. PTAUSW
McDonald’s A-1, Gedimino 15, tel. (+370) 685
421 78, www.mcd.lt. Vilnius’ premier address for
their string of outlets in the city can be found on the
main street that leads to the Cathedral. The décor inside
the large, two floor space has been specially designed
to give a local flavour, and you’ll find both the classic
McDonald’s layout as well as a McCafé inside. There’s
also a small window where food and drink can be ordered
around the clock. Also at Seinų 3, Kareivių 15, Ukmergės
173, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 05:00. Open 00:00 - 05:00, 06:00 - 00:00
(Thu, Fri, Sat). Open 07:00 - 03:00 (Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed).
10Lt. PTJABSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Pizza
Charlie Pizza C-4, Vokiečių 3, tel. (+370) 695 304
11, www.charlie.lt. The nationwide Charlie Pizza chain
serves classic and exotic pizzas alongside other international
fare throughout the land. Their Old Town location
is on one of the best streets in the city. Good value for
money any day of the week, keep an eye out for their
special offers which make eating in Vilnius almost free at
times. For those with kids in tow, the Panorama branch
offers all kinds of incentives for young children to visit. Also
at Pilies 8. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 18Lt. JA
Čili Pica A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90
71, www.cili.lt. The bible-proportioned menu includes
a frightening array of decent pizzas as well as a small yet
well-chosen collection of pasta and meat dishes to boot.
Those who are generally offended by the possibility of
smothering one’s meal in tomato ketchup really should
try it. It’s actually not that bad. To top it all (so to speak),
the service is usually very good indeed. Also at Didžioji
5. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. 15Lt.
PTJAVBSW
Gourmet Pizza C-2, Gedimino 52/1, tel. (+370) 606 043
54. A novel approach to a pizza place, Gourmet Pizza comes
with its own deli as well as selling a small range of pre-cooked
pizza slices that rank among the best in town. Also serving an
average set business lunch, try to avoid during the middle of
the day as it gets stupidly chaotic to the point that even the
stoic locals leave the queue and go somewhere else. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 8Lt. TJASW
Pizza Hut Express H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5
259 61 28. Under new management and a much better
experience all round, Lithuania’s adventures into the world
of pizza franchising are finally worth talking about with a
positive spin. The slice of deep-pan pizza we recently gobbled
down hit the spot exactly. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 13Lt.
PTAUSW
Pomodoro A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 22, www.
pomodoro.lt. After numerous visits to several Pomodoro restaurants
it’s still almost impossible to fault them. For the price,
the pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak
continues to amaze and impress. Service is attentive, salads
lower their standard during the winter like they do anywhere in
the north, and the early morning pancakes continue to be a fine
way to start the day. Also at P. Lukšio 32, Goštauto 40c. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PTJAUBSW
Submarine B-3, Vilniaus 37, tel. (+370) 616 344 21,
www.submarinas.lt. Latter-day Teutonic Knights of the
pizza world, Submarine just won’t leave Lithuania alone.
Preferring to serve Italian food rather than convert people
to Christianity, Submarine also provide free wireless internet
which is something the marauding Germans never did.
The pizzas are good for the price, the staff are genuinely
friendly and for lovers of trivia the place was named after
the make-believe yellow underwater vessel made popular by
the Beatles. Welcome to Vilnius. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri
08:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. 15Lt.
PTABSW
Užupio Picerija D-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215 36
66. Parked in a street just around the corner from the Užupis
Angel, this tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy or
dead as a door nail. Whatever state it’s found in, the pizza
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
they serve is decent enough if not exactly gourmet. Eschew
the other meals and stick to the house food and you’ll be
just fine. Service is of course amusing, and the outdoor
seating during the warmer part of the year is exceedingly
pleasant. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
17Lt. JABSW
Russian
Царское Cело H-2, Šeimyniškių 3, tel. (+370) 5 272
86 18, www.carskojeselo.lt. Named after a former home
of the Russian royal family, these classic Russian-themed restaurants
pander to the average crowd, are child-friendly and
come with all the folk-themed trappings any self-respecting
restaurant of this kind needs. The food is exceptionally good
for a chain restaurant, providing a fine introduction to the
cuisine of the world’s largest country. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 18Lt.
PTAEBS
Salad
Mano Guru B-2, Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370) 5 212
01 26. Opened in August 2004 and still going strong, the
recommended Mano Guru offers a mind-boggling array of
substantial salads plus desserts and soft drinks in something
of a boutique setting. Popular particularly with women
watching their weight, other people are encouraged to visit
not least because of the idea behind the place. Begun on
the initiative of local legend and resurrected mayor of Vilnius
Artūras Zuokas, over half of the staff working here are recovering
drug addicts involved in what’s probably the most
enlightened project in the city, and one that’s well worth
supporting. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. 15Lt. TJASW
August - November 2012
41

42 restaurants
Sandwiches
Gimme C-5, Aušros Vartų 4, tel. (+370) 685 006 84. Now
in its third incarnation and possessing its third name in as many
years, the best thing about this place was the fact that they somehow
managed to get a bus inside. Sadly, the new management
have seen fit to not exactly throw it out but to cunningly disguise
it so it just looks a bit like a bank. Out go the pancakes and the
kebabs and in comes a small choice of sandwiches including one
vegetarian option and a handful of soups. The location is unbeatable,
although for the simple pleasure of eating meat wrapped in
bread we recommend the kebab shop at the far bottom of the
street on the right.QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 05:00, Sat
10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 9 Lt. JA
Soup
Sriubos Namai B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 683 152
56. Conjuring comparisons with 1930s Britain, Vilnius is at the
time of writing in a bit of a soup restaurant-opening mood. This
latest attempt, far from providing bland, vitamin-rich comfort
at rock-bottom prices produces bland, vitamin-rich comfort at
a mildly alarming cost. Add to this the addition of thin slices of
stale bread and what you’ve got is a sad attempt in a street
usually better known for its good food. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 12Lt. PTAUSW
Spanish
California Tapas & Wine C-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370)
652 655 51, www.california.lt. Growing from strength to
strength, it’s a breath of fresh air to see a restaurant in Lithuania
improve over time rather than the usual opposite. Aiming to
introduce tapas to the local population among other things, this
Spanish-themed restaurant-bar on two floors provides a bit of
everything, from a first-floor café complete with open kitchen
serving dishes including Basque fish soup to grilled meat to a
labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating and
drinking. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00.
16Lt. PTJABSW
Steak
Markus ir Ko C-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 31
85, www.markusirko.lt. Serving various bits of cow to those
who can afford it for as long as many care to remember, Markus
ir Ko is an institution that fails to go away. Once famed for cooking
the best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely
upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by others but
still knocks out by almost everybody’s account a damn fine steak.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PTJAESW
Meat Lovers Pub B-3, Šv. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 652
512 33, www.meatloverspub.lt. Cooking meat to perfection,
we had a steak that couldn’t be argued with, a soup that was
up there with soups costing five times as much and some pork
that was absolutely the best meat we’ve eaten in Vilnius for
months. The service isn’t great and there wasn’t much in the
way of heating, but don’t let these minor blips deter diners from
some of the best value meat in town. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. 25Lt. PTABSW
Steak House Hazienda D-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel),
tel. (+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Using beef from
cattle grazed on Lithuanian grassland, Steak House Hazienda
has been through a bit of a wobbly period but is now back
on track. We recently demolished a sirloin steak which was
cooked perfectly and that came with an excellent choice of
garnishes. Beware of the complimentary appetiser of homemade
bread, as it may leave you with no space left inside to
finish the main course. A welcome return of high standards
from one of our old favourites. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 60Lt.
PTJAEBW
Sushi
Sushi Express G-3, J. Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370) 699 693
43, www.sushiexpress.lt. It’s a bit cheeky using the word
express in a restaurant name when waiting can easily take
40 minutes or so, but if you can put up with a long wait you’ll
probably be as impressed with Sushi Express as we are. The
local lad in their new Konstitucijos venue who makes the stuff
looks like he’s only just stopped wearing short trousers but he
certainly knows his stuff. The menu is impressive, and the last
offering of tempura yasai we gorged on was absolutely spot
on. If not the best then certainly the most consistent place for
sushi in town. Also at Konstitucijos 20. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 16Lt. PABSW
Uzbek
Čaichana A-4, Naugarduko 14, tel. (+370) 611 411 19,
www.caichana.lt. Pay no attention to the garish décor and
the bewildered staff bumbling about with grubby orange Crocs
on their feet and what you’ve got here is a truly outstanding
restaurant, assuming you eat meat that is. The lagman (laghman)
takes an age to arrive, but the homemade noodles and
exquisite sauce are more than worth the time and effort the
chef put into them. Also on offer on the Lithuanian-only menu
are Uzbek kebabs, lots of delicious dishes made with fresh
yoghurt, a recommended mantai (manti) and hot bread made
on the premises. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
17Lt. PTJAUSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

NEW
Uzbekistanas A-1, Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 04
29. A truly welcome addition to Vilnius’ restaurant scene,
Uzbekistanas operates on the posher end of the décor
scale but stays true to the cuisine of the country the place
is named after. The only problem here is knowing what
to choose, either because Uzbek food has passed you
by entirely or because every dish demands to be eaten.
Amidst a fine selection of items on the menu including a
chayhana plov that needs to be ordered 90 minutes in
advance alongside the more usual plov we went for the
lagman, a spicy lamb and noodle soup that’s almost a
meal in itself and a plate of manti, essentially oversized
ravioli with soured cream that were both prepared and
cooked to perfection. It’s a bit pricey here, but well worth
the expense. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
25Lt. PTJAUVEBSW
Vegetarian
Balti Drambliai B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 08
75. Struggle down a set of wobbly medieval steps to a cacophony
of sitars and whale songs to be served a range of average
vegetarian fare from a menu that regularly changes colour but
more or less stays the same otherwise by waitresses whose
cigarette breaks often bring them back inside with big grins on
their faces. Welcome to the crazy world of Balti Drambliai (White
Elephants), the restaurant that didn’t put the hip in hippy but
that’s worth a visit all the same. The food’s cheap and perfectly
safe, and the live music and parties can be fun, especially when
it’s warm outside and they open up their legendary terrace.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJABW
Raw42 B-5, Rūdninkų 12, tel. (+370) 659 530 29,
www.raw42.lt. Recently popping up in another little
triangle of Vilnius currently making something of a name
for itself, the food stretches beyond sandwiches and they
even offer short courses in making food. Very trendy and
very welcome, note that none of the food is cooked at a
temperature higher that +42°C. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 10Lt. JNBS
Raw Raw C-2, Totorių 3, tel. (+370) 699 520 22, www.
rawraw.lt. Recently upping sticks and moving to far more
sensible location, Raw Raw is a slightly misleading name
because they use ovens, although the bread is dried not
cooked. That aside, what they do produce is good healthy
food made from unprocessed ingredients. The menu is fairly
extensive and includes everything from vitamin-packed salads
to pasta dishes made from vegetables. Also a good selection
of freshly squeezed fruit juices. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. 15Lt. PTJABS
Vegafé C-4, Augustijonų 2/13, tel. (+370) 659 770
72. An excellent little addition to Vilnius’ small selection
of vegetarian restaurants, this one features an impressive
menu of dishes made from fresh ingredients and with a nod
in the general direction of Asia. The freshly squeezed fruit
juices are especially good here and the food comes in all
shapes and sizes from simple snacks to full blown meals.
Also at Totorių 3. QOpen 11:00 - 21:30. 11Lt. JS
Vieta B-3, Šv. Ignoto 12-1, tel. (+370) 687 134 75.
It’s all funny haircuts, constant references to ganja and
A Tribe Called Quest inside Vilnius’ newest vegetarian
restaurant. Friendly if your face fits and good value for
money, the food’s basic but edible, although writing the
menu on one of the tablecloths is a bit silly. QOpen 11:00
- 02:00. 10Lt. TJW
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
August - November 2012
43

44 nightliFe
The Lithuanian capital’s disparate nightlife options run the
breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and budget,
from quiet cafés full of serious-looking men huddled over a
game of chess to steamy underground caverns dedicated
to the time-honoured pursuit of getting ordinarily level-headed
businessmen so horribly drunk that they willingly empty
the contents of their bank account inside a stripper’s knickers.
Now that the city’s wine-drinking crowd have been given
their own places to imbibe, Vilnius’ nightlife entrepreneurs
are turning their attention to the subject of beer, namely
with the regular opening of a new place selling warm brown
froth made in small microbreweries around the country. The
best are of course listed here. Clubs remain almost exclusively
mainstream, whilst the city’s gay and lesbian scene
is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site.
With the exception of perhaps Pyongyang, no capital city in
the world is without its more sinister side, and that includes
Vilnius. Violence and alcohol occasionally combust into
fisticuffs, and with wages to make a sweatshop worker stay
in bed it’s no surprise to learn that wallets, mobile phones
and even the occasional camera disappear from ineptly attended
tables, pockets and bags. Finally, face control is ever
on the rise. If yours doesn’t fit, forget it. Have fun!
Bars
Alaus Studija E-1, S. Žukausko 20, tel. (+370) 685
608 85. Exactly why it took just over a thousand years for
somebody to open a really outstanding bar in Vilnius is anyone’s
guess, but open it they finally did. True, the location could be
more central, but when it’s as good as this there’s no particular
need to complain. Selling only foreign beers alongside a few
stronger options and decorated with leftover technology from
the recently expired Lithuanian Film Studios, the Murphy’s is
refreshingly affordable and goes down a treat. A menu of bar
snacks is also available, plus there’s hot nachos, nuts and
blankets for chilly spring evenings sat outside on the terrace.
A taxi from Old Town shouldn’t cost more than 10Lt. Highly
recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00,
Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PAB
Amatininkų Užeiga C-4, Didžioji 19/2, tel. (+370) 687
223 66. An Old Town institution popular with locals and tourists
alike, the service here has always been pretty bad even at
the best of times although that’s never stopped the punters
from coming. The nondescript interior fills during the colder
part of the year with a motley collection of inebriated locals
whilst the sprawling outdoor terrace continues to be one of
the most popular drinking spots in the city. If you can handle
the wait, the food is edible and, best of all, famously keeps
arriving on your table until sunrise. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00. PJABW
NEW
Entry C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 624 943 17. Hovering
mid-way between sports bar and a pool venue, this place
just makes it into this section on account of the 12 plasma
screens that show regular local and international sporting
events. There’s a decent bar too, and even the option to eat.
As for its pool venue credentials, find six excellent pool tables
and a further table for snooker. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. PJNSW
Fortas H-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 652 011 38, www.fortas.eu.
Despite its slightly crappy beer collection, Fortas can
do no wrong. Perched up on top of the hill above Old Town, this
always busy spot plays host to everyone from shady-looking
Russian-speakers without any hair to immaculately turned out
Japanese tourists. Perfect for an outdoor summertime drink
despite the appalling view and equally rewarding indoors, it
would be unfair to not mention the food, which is consistently
marvellous. Top banana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PABW
Gringo A-3, Vilniaus 31/1, tel. (+370) 654 905 41. The
friendly bar staff certainly make a change from many others in
the area, and the cold beers on offer are both well chosen and
priced (Gringo currently serves one of the best pints of Guinness
in the region). Also find the added incentives of free wireless
internet and table football. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Tue, Wed
11:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JABW
Summer Bars
Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, who’ve
simultaneously realised the potential of the city centre’s
empty spaces and stuffed great big bars in several
of them. This may seem somewhat passé to many a
reader but for the locals it’s literally a breath of fresh air.
Even better, most, if not all by the time this sentence is
finished, come with a clutch of DJs to help swing things
along. The following list is far from complete, but does at
least represent the best of the bunch. All listed venues
will be open until the end of the good weather, some
time around the start of October.
Sensus Terasa B-2, Totorių 13, tel. (+370) 5
261 46 93, www.bonussensus.lt. Occupying the
former Chaplin Terasa space for those who remember
it, the good people at Sensus Bar & Grill have caught
the summer terrace bug and are at the time of going to
press fighting the elements with this cracking outdoor
space mid-way between Old Town and Gedimino. A good
alternative to most of the other summer terraces in town
that tend to attract a younger crowd, this one aims to
keep a broader public whilst keeping the summer bar
tradition of serving cold beer and providing a range of
evening entertainment. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. JAB
Vasaros Terasa B-3, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 620
856 89. Inside the large Mokytojų Namai courtyard,
Vasaros Terasa (Summer Terrace) functions as all
things but is most comfortable in its role as a bar. A
great location for a drink any time of day, the people who
come here tend to be young and about as alternative
as it gets in Vilnius. Service is consistently dreadful, but
once you’ve resigned yourself to the fact that there’s
nothing you can do about it, it’s definitely one of the
top summer spots in the city. The courtyard also plays
host to a regular supply of music acts and DJs as well
as the occasional work of art. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri
11:00 - 03:30, Sat 12:00 - 03:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
JEBXSW
Vienuolyno Kiemas B-3, Trakų 9/1. Currently the
top venue among the city’s outdoor drinking spaces,
this place is embarrassingly difficult to find for some
people who claim to call Vilnius home. Find friendly
staff, affordable drinks, a family atmosphere, plenty of
wooden platforms for tripping over and the best pick
of the DJs currently playing to outdoor crowds in the
capital. The marvellous setting is somewhat ruined by
a proliferation of massive umbrellas (here’s a tip for you
Vienuolyno Kiemas, why don’t you take them down when
it’s not raining eh?), although after the sixth beer you’ll
hardly notice. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. JE
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NEW
Leičiai C-4, Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 90 87. The
next logical step in the evolution of the specialist Lithuanian
beer bar, Leičiai also doubles as a restaurant serving classic
traditional local food. As well as a space for drinking
the range of superb Lithuanian beers on offer from small
microbreweries around the country, this pleasant watering
hole also features two dining halls, one with an open kitchen
and a small beer garden out the back. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
PJABSW
Marsas B-3, Trakų 15, tel. (+370) 616 513 77. The
former Bobo is now called Marsas, and although they’re doing
their very best to offer something interesting and slightly
alternative like their predecessor, it’s all a bit vague in here.
There’s a good range of alcohol behind the bar, an imaginative
menu (the burger and fries are supposed to be very good
indeed) and a prerequisite DJ, but it’s not really working out
in our opinion. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00,
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. JAW
(M)isterija B-2/3, Totorių 18, tel. (+370) 5 212 50 51,
www.misterija.lt. Popular with a regular crowd of friendly hedonists,
the drinks menu is fairly impressive and the food is more than
edible. Extras at press time include board games, a regular pub
quiz which can be translated into English for non-native-speakers,
themed weekend parties and a policy that encourages people
to dance on the bar if they feel so inclined. The website features
photographs of girls in bras and gentlemen on stag dos. You get
the idea. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 -
06:00, Sun 18:00 - 04:00.PJASW
Piano Man A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 650 969
25. Consistently busy during the weekend when propping up
the bar is generally the only option left for people arriving after
21:00, the mixed and predominantly chirpy crowd at Piano Man
provides a buzz lacking in many of its competitors. The bar
stocks a good range of drinks including draught Guinness and
Hoegaarden, there’s table football in the corner and from time
to time there’s also the added bonus of live music. An excellent
choice indeed for anyone looking for a place to add to their pub
crawl or for staying the course and spending the entire evening
here. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00
- 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PJAB
Plieno Paukštis H-4, K. Kalinausko 11b, tel. (+370) 5
231 21 81. Blink and you’d miss it, the Steel Bird is one of
those rare finds that leads to something akin to a love affair
once discovered. Discreet during the winter, this is the perfect
place for a fireside tryst, whilst the warmer parts of the year
trumpet the opening of a magnificent secluded garden. Full of
staff from the American embassy during the week, the place
is given back to the locals at the weekend and is well worth
the treck up the hill. Recommended is their cheese-covered
kepta duona, a real treat with a couple of ice-cold beers.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. AB
Pogo A-2, Vilniaus 12, tel. (+370) 604 195 67, www.
pogobaras.lt. You can say what you like about rock fans but
you can’t deny the fact that the ones who opened Pogo should
be hugged and generally smothered in affection. Risking their
necks transforming an empty Chinese restaurant into a bar
with a live music venue at a time when the economy was
falling to pieces, our heroes have been rewarded with a loyal
clientele of lads and lasses in leather and a damn fine place
to drink if this is your sort of thing. The beer is stupidly cheap
and the kepta duona is what drinking was invented for. Totally
recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri 18:00 - 06:00, Sat
18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAEW
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
nightliFe
ŠMC C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 656 756 17. Round
the back of the Contemporary Arts Centre and equipped
with staff and clientele to suit, although it’s a bit cramped
and frequently morose indoors during the colder part of the
year the arrival of the city’s clement weather brings with it
a concrete terrace that can get extremely lively during the
evenings. An interesting option for a drink and the possibility
of meeting some of the city’s more imaginative inhabitants
and even play chess if you so desire. Not bad food either.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJABSW
Transilvanija B-4, Mėsinių 3, tel. (+370) 5 203 43
79. A good old-fashioned beer-drinking venue popular with
a 20-something crowd and with a penchant for rock music,
Transilvanija recently moved to a great new Old Town location
and continues to bring in the crowds. Featuring an excellent
stock of booze and a weekly pub quiz on Wednesdays at
19:00, the latest news is the opening on May 1 of a large
beer garden in the square opposite. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PJAB
Universiteto Pub B-3, Dominikonų 9, tel. (+370) 678
833 63. A slightly streamlined Universiteto has shed its wine
and sports appendages and is now functioning more or less as
a bar with a backup plan of pub grub and the occasional student
party. With a clutch of worthy drinking holes in the immediate
area, this one-time expat favourite has had a hard time since
it relaunched, but it seems to be doing ok with a more rowdy
crowd of local youngsters who appreciate the affordable prices
and endless procession of blondes. A great people-watching
pub, although almost certainly not one for spending the entire
evening in. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Tue, Wed 22:00 - 05:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PJAW
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45

Clubs
Due to the universal law stating that it’s impossible to be in
all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are written
to provide a general overview of what’s to be expected
if you visit them. As any serious clubber already knows,
nights change with alarming regularity, good promoters
come and go and expected crowds fail to turn up. The good
news about clubbing in Vilnius is that entrance prices are
relatively low and the city is remarkably small. If you happen
to stumble on a non-event, relocating to another club is
both quick and affordable.
Brodvėjus B-4, Mėsinių 4, tel. (+370) 652 577 90,
www.brodvejus.lt. Celebrated for the slightly creepy fact
that this is arguably the top spot in town for visiting foreigners
of a questionable age to leer at teenage girls, downstairs is
primarily for dancing, spilling drinks and getting stuck in conversations
with local simpletons, whilst the quieter upstairs
bar is always worth a go, especially if you want to sit down.
Still hugely popular, live acts include everything from DJs who’d
find it hard to get a gig at a wedding to the occasional decent
band. QOpen Mon 22:00 - 02:00, Tue 20:00 - 03:00, Wed,
Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00.
Entrance free - 20Lt. PJAEW
Cocainn B-2, Gedimino 2a, tel. (+370) 600 478 62.
Occupying three main rooms catering to different tastes,
there’s a lounge for cocktails and the dreaded Tuborg, a
quiet room where guests can eat from a menu of gourmet
dishes and a good old-fashioned night club with dancing girls
dressed as nurses among other things. There’s also a place
for smoking cigars. The perfect introduction to Eastern European
nightlife. QOpen Tue 22:00 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 22:00
- 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Entrance
10Lt. PJAXW
Opium A-2, Islandijos 4. Located in the brickwork bowels of
Briusly, Opium is the brainchild of a small group of like-minded local
DJs of some pedigree, each with their own distinctive take on
the world. It’s a bit cramped down here, but for purists looking
for some of the best DJs in the country there are few places to
beat it at the moment. Opium is also currently one of the places
to catch the legendary and highly recommended Mondayjazz
sessions. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Sat, Sun. Open from September 1. Entrance 10Lt. J
Pabo Latino A-4, Trakų 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 45,
www.pabolatino.lt. Featuring three halls and two bars of
sheer class, Pabo Latino is an oasis of Latin culture in a country
where human warmth is far from overwhelming. A tough but fair
door policy keeps the low life out, meaning what you get inside
is a well behaved bunch of good-looking people out for a fun
evening in pleasant albeit sometimes frenetic surroundings.
The music is both live and courtesy of DJs, the cocktail menu
is massive and if you don’t know how to dance Latin style, they
even organise lessons for anyone willing to give it a go. QOpen
Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. Entrance 15 - 30Lt. PJAEBW
Salento DiscoPub C-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820
15, www.salentodiscopub.com. Nights of foam in which
the ladies get all wet and lathery, cheap offers on cocktails,
deckchairs, large television screens and a predominantly
young crowd are the things to expect inside this heaving Old
Town favourite. The brainchild of Italian Piero, the idea is to
bring an Italian and Spanish pub-disco feel to the Lithuanian
capital. Each night promises a different theme, with music
focusing on pop and old favourites. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.
Entrance free - 25Lt. PJAEB
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August - November 2012
47

48 nightliFe
Seacret C-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 670 232 37, www.
seacret.lt. This Old Town club created by the owners of
several successful Vilnius businesses offers cocktails from
freshly squeezed juice, juggling barmen, DJs, live music and
dancers. According to the people who run the place, visitors
are promised a mysterious atmosphere, helped along no
doubt by the fact that they’re also proud to announce that the
name of the club cleverly conceals the words sea and secret.
QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. Entrance free. PJAEBW
Cocktails
Alchemikas A-2, Islandijos 1, tel. (+370) 612 998 00. It’s
about time a cocktail bar came along that was more about the
art of cocktails than the pretence of the cocktail bar sensation.
Specialising in both classic and modern mixed drinks, it’s worth
paying them a visit just to have a peep at the extraordinary
interior, and if you do choose to stick around, expect to be
bankrupt by the end of the evening thanks to the addictive
allure of their magnificent mixology. Recommended. QOpen
Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. JAB
Berlin A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 609 616 16. If it
really was in Berlin it wouldn’t be open for long, this rather halfarsed
attempt at sophistication seems to think expensive
clothes are more important than culture. Excellent for ogling
dolly birds and little else, Berlin is at least in the part of the
city that’s currently opening new and decent venues at the
drop of a hat. There’s plenty more to choose from less than
a minute away if you don’t like it. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJB
LGBT Friendly
Attitudes towards all
manner of minority
groups in Lithuania are
slowly changing for the
better, with a handful
of brave individuals
spearheading their respective
campaigns
armed with a combination
of courage and a firm understanding of Lithuanian
law. One such person is the openly gay 22-year-old film
director Romas Zabarauskas, who recently returned to
Vilnius after a period of mind-altering study in New York.
Already gaining support for his day job from the likes of
Gus Van Sant and John Cameron Mitchell, Zabarauskas
recently turned his attention to the gaping chasm between
attitudes towards the LGBT communities in New York and
Vilnius in the form of a spontaneous decision to contact
Vilnius’ bar and restaurant owners to see if they were
willing to put small LGBT Friendly stickers (pictured) on
the doors and windows of their premises. Despite the
usual whinging and threats from certain conservative
members of the local Municipality, reactions have been
overwhelmingly positive, the result being that a growing
number of venues in the Lithuanian capital now proudly
proclaim their support for the LGTB community. This is
good news for everyone, including LGBT visitors to Vilnius
who no longer have to play a game of Russian roulette
when visiting bars and restaurants that may or may not be
owned and frequented by knuckle-heads. Vilnius In Your
Pocket would like to congratulate Romas and the other
people who worked on the project and looks forward to
continuing to write about an increasingly friendly city.
Blusynė Lounge C-4, Savičiaus 5, tel. (+370) 605 191
27. Recently reinventing itself as a cocktail bar has in no way
compromised one of Vilnius’ more quirky and original bars, a
compact affair with an improved garden out the back and a menu
of dishes including some great soups and one of the capital’s
better burgers. Popular with Vilnius’ trendier individuals this is a
great choice for summer drinks and the chance to meet some
of the city’s more interesting locals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PJBW
Mojitos B-2, Totorių 11, tel. (+370) 601 125 55. Woe
betide any Cuban or anybody who’s been to Cuba who
ventures through the door of Mojitos, because as was to be
expected this place is about as Cuban as the Helms-Burton
Act. Billing itself as a Cuban cocktail bar, although there’s
nothing wrong with their cocktails they’re not exactly the sort
of thing that would set Havana alight, whilst the food is best
left undiscussed (and in the kitchen). The good news is that
on the saucy scale it doesn’t do a bad job at all, with plenty
of sexy young things in their underwear jiggling about until the
early hours. A good night out for a bit of fun, if you’re looking for
something more authentic you’d better start saving for a flight
across the Atlantic. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00,
Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PJAB
Pantera A-2, A. Smetonos 5, tel. (+370) 657 614 45. Currently
open just a couple of nights a week, Pantera is the latest
cocktail bar to come crashing onto the scene in a city that quite
frankly could do with a decent one. In the same capable hands
as the people who run the best club in Kaunas, nights here are
busy and fun although it’s arguably easier to get a visa for North
Korea than make it past face control here. Word on the street
from those handsome enough to have gained the approval of the
beauty police on the door report back nothing but very good news
indeed. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Open from September 1. Entrance free. PJA
Paparazzi B-2, Totorių 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 35, www.
paparazzi.lt. Recently moving next door, Paparazzi continues
to dazzle in the way only Lithuanians can dazzle with plenty
on offer to help the cocktails go down. Popular with a youngish,
after-work crowd, each evening sees something different
going on from a pub quiz to table football tournaments to live
jazz. The website’s in Lithuanian only but a quick Google
translate provides enough to get the general idea of what to
expect over the coming summer. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW
Shooters A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 655 525 17,
www.shooters.lt. Over 300 cocktails and the promise of
being smothered with attention await visitors to this friendly,
ever-so cocktail bar-looking cocktail bar. Complete with juggling
bartenders, wacky furnishings and the cream of Vilnius hip cat
community, other delights include special theme nights and a
range of nibbles to stave off the hunger. Former visitors should
take note that they’ve recently upped sticks and moved around
a couple of corners. Beyond that it’s business as usual. QOpen
17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW
Wine
In Vino C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 10,
www.invino.lt. Catching on to the current craze for wine bars
in the city early on, they’ve obviously got a real appreciation for
wine of which they stock a fair amount. Perhaps best enjoyed
on a Friday or Saturday night, this is one of the best places in
town to mingle with the cream of the city’s C-list celebrities.
One bone of contention though, namely a serious lack of
toilet facilities. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00.
PJAUBSW
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

La Bohème B-3, Šv. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10
87. They still can’t cook pasta but they do at last have a
space to drink outside when it’s warm, making Old Town’s
favourite upscale boozer better than ever. The grandiose
medieval interior is perfect for group celebrations (although
you should definitely think twice before ordering the pasta),
and the wine list is both thoughtful and extensive. All in all a
most suitable venue for everyone from passing lads on the
pull to a coach-load of grandmothers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. JABSW
Mimoza/Vinchenso A-2, Islandijos 1/33, tel. (+370)
652 935 87. A little bit of everything here inside one of
the latest sensations to appear on the scene. Crowded
much of the time, it’s both a classy wine bar complete
with shop as well as an Asian restaurant serving the
usual collection of dishes including butterfish sashimi,
tofu soup, a range of tasting dishes and a couple of vegetarian
options. Get here early if you want a seat and rub
shoulders with some of the capital’s prettier specimens.
On top of everything else, they’re attempting to woo even
more customers by booking some decent DJs. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00.
PJAESW
Notre Vie C-3, Stiklių 10, tel. (+370) 614 245 21. Yet
another wine bar, this one is small and intimate with friendly
staff and a good selection of booze and snacks. Although
nothing to get too excited about, it is at least the real thing
unlike so many of the others in Vilnius. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.
PJABSW
Savas Kampas C-4, Vokiečių 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 32
03, www.savaskampas.lt. Well this is a surprise. Certain
that Savas Kampas was on the way out in the last issue,
we’re now forced to eat a slice of humble pie. Constantly
busy and with friendly staff to boot, we didn’t try the wine the
last time we were here but the beer went down well and the
atmosphere was excellent. Savas Kampas is without doubt
a survivor. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri
11:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JABW
Tappo D’oro B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 7, tel. (+370)
686 168 66. Hidden away between the Cathedral and the
President’s Palace, this little gem adds yet another string
to the maestro’s bow also known as contemporary Vilnius.
Hitching a ride on the coat tails of the city’s current obsession
with wine bars and gourmet food, Tappo D’oro is part
wine bar and part delicatessen. As well as a chilled cabinet
full of speciality meats, cheese and olives, find a tastefully
decorated drinking area complete with a long list of Italian
wines. Massively busy in 2010, the owners have gone and
opened a second bar in the heart of Old Town. Also at Vokiečių
8. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JABS
Microbreweries
For the record, our definition of a microbrewery includes
bars selling beer from microbreweries scattered around
the country. Enjoy.
Bambalynė C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 5 240 56 70.
Featuring a rapidly approaching total of close to 100 types of
beer from microbreweries across the country and a spooky
brick cellar ambience, Bambalynė counts among a number
of specialist bars in the city catering to the tastes of those
who like their ale local rather than multinational. The beers
in question range from light to dark and should keep all but
the fussiest from hours of drunken appreciation. A little bit
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
nightliFe
classier than its counterparts, the bar is fashionable among
the capital’s more urbane guzzlers, plus there’s a shop inside
and a beer-tasting lounge for true aficionados. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PJAW
Būsi Trečias B-2, Totorių 18, tel. (+370) 5 231 26
98, www.busitrecias.lt. Meaning something along the
lines of You’ll be the third, which in this part of the world
spells bad luck, Būsi Trečias functions as one of the capital’s
only microbreweries as well as a better than average
place to dine on gut-busting local dishes. Downstairs is
a genuinely good bar, whilst the large upper level has the
feel of a demented German beer hall complete with sozzled
groups of locals singing patriotic songs and falling
off the wooden benches. The in-house beer is good stuff,
although we recommend you steer clear of the flavoured
versions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.
PJABW
Šnekutis B-5, Šv. Stepono 8, tel. (+370) 650 470 58.
Not a microbrewery as such, Šnekutis sneaks into this section
on account of hoarding traditional, microbrewery-brewed
beers from all corners of the country. Some of this is live,
meaning it only lasts a few days, not unlike the hangover
that goes with the superb 12% Stačias from Panevėžys. A
couple of large ones of these and you might find yourself
rolling down the mysterious staircase by the toilet. Should
this happen, don’t be surprised to find yourself fished out
by the barman, a personable gentleman with a theatrical
moustache. Highly recommended, and extremely popular,
meaning it’s not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench
with a strange Lithuanian man eating unidentified animal
parts from a bowl. Rare for Lithuania, Šnekutis doesn’t have
table service. Order at the bar. Also at Polocko 7a. QOpen
11:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. PJS
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52 nightliFe
LGBT
Soho G-4, Švitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395
67, www.sohoclub.lt. One main space for drinking
and chatting and another for dance-orientated activities
both sub-divided even further and decorated in the
style of a vampire’s Council house. Punters have the
chance to send SMS messages to a large screen for
the purposes of making mobile phone companies rich.
QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Entrance free - 20Lt. A
Live music
Tamsta D-5, Subačiaus 11a/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 44 98,
www.tamstaclub.lt. A brave attempt by the people who run
the excellent music shop downstairs to bring live bands of
many persuasions to a half-starved audience. Music ranges
from jazz to art-rock to old fashioned rock and roll, there’s a
long bar to keep everyone fed and watered, plus once a month
they organise a so-called Open Mic Day where outsiders can
come and improvise along with other like-minded musicians.
QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri 19:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Open from September. Entrance 7 -
30Lt. JAE
Cabaret
New York H-2, Kalvarijų 85, tel. (+370) 699 155 87,
www.newyorkclub.lt. Opened in 2004 in the style of an
old-fashioned musical theatre, New York’s finally found its feet
as more of a live music club than anything else. Set among
authentic theatrical décor, evenings here include everything
from the occasional cabaret act to all sorts of music shows to
the theatre’s long-running play, Urvinis Žmogus (Defending the
Caveman). See their website for more information. Q Opening
hours depend on repertoire. Entrance 20 - 70Lt. PAE
Adult entertainment
Vilnius In Your Pocket doesn’t mention what one’s expected
to pay for alcohol and ‘other services’ in the places
listed in the Adult entertainment section of this guide.
Although by no means expensive relatively speaking, strip
clubs here aren’t exactly cheap. The memorable story of
a visiting businessman from a country that shall remain
nameless suffering an attack of serial private dancing and
then not being able to pay his bill is one of many similar
tales, and is worth remembering, especially if, as in the
case of this gentleman, it’s someone from your embassy
that has to get up in the middle of the night and sort it out.
So, please, before you indulge too much, make sure you
know exactly what you’re getting yourselves into.
Club smarts
You have a jolly smashing face
Tavo veidelis klaikiai gražus
Can I buy you a drink?
Galiu pavaišinti gėrimu?
Golly, you‘re a fabulous dancer!
Vajetau, tu šoki nuostabiai!
Get your coat sweetie, you‘ve pulled
Susirink skudurus, zuiki, ir varom
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Casinos
Nesė Casino (Pramogų Bankas) A -2,
Pamėnkalnio 7/8, tel. (+370) 700 555 55, www.
nese.lt. Q Open 24hrs. PJ
Dolls H-3, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82.
Dollicious! This is an absolutely fantastic place to indulge in
the truly titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best in
town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their scantily clad flesh
before you, above you and possibly even beneath you for a
price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from Old Town
to visit the Barbie of your dreams. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. Entrance 80Lt. PA
Old Town Strip Club C-4, Rūdninkų 14, tel. (+370) 5
212 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Expect a thumping, throbbing,
erotically charged escapade. These ladies don’t mess around
when it’s show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot
of toys. The hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in
this city, but the very best part might just be the deliciously
innocent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their
clothes on. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Entrance
80Lt. PJA
Paradise A-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 630 111 12,
www.paradiseclub.lt. This perfect combination of gentlemen’s
leisure and entertainment provides a range of
services and facilities from saucy dancing to whirlpools.
What more could a man with a credit card need? They don’t
call it Paradise for nothing. QOpen 20:00 - 07:00. Entrance
100Lt. PJAW
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
nightliFe
August - November 2012
53

56 what to see
Museums & Galleries
Applied Arts Museum (Taikomosios Dailės Muziejus)
D-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 5 262 80 80, www.
ldm.lt. Housed inside what was the far northeast corner of
the city’s original defensive walls, of which some including an
original gate can still be seen inside, this worthy inclusion into
the city’s national treasures is stuffed full of good things to
see, among them little models of how the city once looked,
furniture, paintings and much more besides. Among the permanent
exhibits find three unmissable collections of sacred
Lithuanian art including examples from both the Catholic and
Orthodox Churches dating back as far as the 15th century.
Temporary exhibitions also take place throughout the year.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3Lt. J
Archaeology Museum (Archeologijos Muziejus)
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 24 52. Rather awkward
to find hidden away inside a courtyard opposite the
funicular station, this often overlooked collection of clothing,
documents and other articles tracing the history and culture
of Lithuania from the 13th century to the present is equally
interesting for being housed inside a splendid historical building
that once made up part of the city’s defensive wall. Blind
you with its ingenuity it won’t, but for a pleasant 30 minutes
that takes in one or two especially lovely exhibits, locating
the hole in the wall to find the entrance is definitely worth the
bother. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (until April
30). Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon
(from May 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J
Church Heritage Museum (Bažnytinio Paveldo
Muziejus) D-3, Šv. Mykolo 9, tel. (+370) 5 269 78
03, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Founded in October 2005 by the
Archbishop of Vilnius, Audrys Juozas Bačkis, and moved
to the splendour of the former 17th-century St. Michael’s
Church in 2009, this recommended museum, which in reality
celebrates just the Lithuanian Catholic Church, features two
floors of paintings, liturgical articles, literature and some fine
wooden carvings from the collections of some of the finest
churches in the country. In English, and with an optional audio
guide, there’s no thread to the things on display, although
almost with exception each piece is fascinating in its own
way. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission
10/5Lt. J
Genocide Victims’ Museum
Essential Vilnius
If you haven’t got a lot of time in Vilnius, the Cathedral-
Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (p.59),
Dawn Gate (p.61), Gediminas Castle & Museum (see
below), Genocide Victims’ Museum (see below), and
St. Anne’s Church (p.60) are generally considered to
be the major sights. This list is of course highly subjective,
and in no way reflects the expectations of every
single visitor to the city. Vilnius In Your Pocket strives
to bring you the widest range of historical and cultural
sights and sensations, and is adding to the list all the
time. If you think there’s something missing, write to us
and let us know.
Diamond Museum (Deimantų Muziejus) B-4,
Vokiečių 11, tel. (+370) 5 260 06 44, www.dsm.lt. A
multimedia journey explaining the history and the processing
of diamonds with the help of a disembodied voice emanating
from a number of expensive televisions. Founded by Israeli
businessman Eli Katz, who also owns the aforementioned
voice, after taking the tour the final room sees a hologram
of Mr. Katz in a room full of treasures and a computer game
for children. An interesting museum indeed, but be warned,
you can’t just walk around willy nilly, so be prepared to give
up at least 30 minutes of your time to visit the place. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 15/10Lt. J
Gediminas Castle & Museum (Gedimino Pilis ir
Muziejus) C-1, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53.
Dating from the 13th century the castle was rebuilt in 1419
by Grand Duke Vytautas following the great fire of Vilnius. In
1610 it was used as a prison for the ruling classes, and during
the 1655-1661 Russian occupation the towers and defensive
walls were almost completely destroyed, with serious albeit
only partial restoration work beginning (presumably by the
Poles) as late as 1930. Inside the tower itself find models of
the castle as it was in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other
miscellaneous bits and pieces concerned with the building’s
history and knights in dented armour. The view on a good day
is recommended. The walk to the top is a bit of a struggle for
many, although there are benches thoughtfully provided along
the way. Alternatively, use the funicular-type train (tickets
3/2Lt) which runs up and down the hill’s northern slope. Find
it hidden in a courtyard immediately west of the Applied Art
Museum on Arsenalo. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00 (until April 30).
Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from May 1). Admission 5/2Lt. J
Genocide Victims’ Museum (Genocido Aukų Muziejus)
G-4, Aukų 2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64, www.genocid.
lt/muziejus. The sign outside reads that between 1940 and
1991 this building housed the representative institutions of
the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate
almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called
genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime.
Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people
wishing to understand this often bleak and violent period in the
country’s history, what the sign fails to point out is that between
1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by the Gestapo,
whose role in the systematic murder of the vast majority of the
city’s Jewish population with the willing participation of many
ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely
overlooked, although the recent addition of a room dedicated
to just this issue is a welcome addition. Controversy aside, as
a testament to the suffering endured by the ethnic Lithuanians,
especially under the lunacy of Stalin, the place is a must-see for
any visitor to Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Lithuanian Energy and Technology Museum (Lietuvos
Energetikos ir Technikos Muziejus) I-3, Rinktinės
2, tel. (+370) 5 278 20 85, www.emuziejus.lt. Housed
inside Vilnius’ first power station, built in 1903, this tremendous
museum is packed full of displays including a room full of old
cars and motorbikes, a fascinating collection of machines and
photographs dedicated to the post-war Soviet industrialisation
of the country and the history of Lithuanian manufacturing in
general plus, on the top floor, two rooms for children complete with
touch-screen displays and interactive games aimed at explaining
the basics of science, which is in English as well as Lithuanian.
Everything has been built around the old power plant turbines
and steam boilers, giving the place a really special atmosphere.
Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5Lt.
Lithuanian Radio & Television Museum (Lietuvos
Radijo ir Televizijos Muziejus) F-4, Konarskio 49 (inside
the LRT building), tel. (+370) 5 236 32 14, www.lrtc.lt. A
little gem of a corridor lined with several large, glass-fronted displays
showcasing the history of radio and television in Lithuania
from its inception through to the modern day. Among the old radio
sets, costumes and photographs of stars you won’t recognise
is a fabulous selection of things dedicated to the tragic events
of January 13, 1991, including the telephone used by Lithuanian
television bosses to communicate with the KGB and a video
camera complete with a smashed lens, courtesy of an unknown
Russian soldier who shot it with his rifle. Q Open by appointment
only. Admission free.
Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Lietuvos
Teatro, Muzikos ir Kino Muziejus) B-3, Vilniaus
41, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 06, www.ltmkm.lt. Originating in
1926 as a theatre museum and slowly collecting departments
and exhibits over the decades until it became what it is today,
this mildly interesting cultural diversion inside a glorious 18thcentury
former palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history
of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of
harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings of
famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including
several displays given over to the life of the actress Unė Babickaitė
(aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum
of cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The
museum also features several temporary exhibitions of painting
and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard
the place from pestering you every couple of minutes you might
just find you enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the
building. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Sun.Admission 5/3Lt. J
Money Museum (Pinigų Muziejus) B-2, Totorių 2/8,
tel. (+370) 5 268 03 34/(+370) 5 268 00 77. Featuring five
small rooms on two floors celebrating the history of world and
Lithuanian money, despite the inclusion of lots of fancy interactive
bits and bobs and plenty of information in English, this relatively
new museum’s best attribute is the fact that it’s free to enter. If
money’s your hobby then there’s no doubt it’s worth a visit. If it
isn’t, then it probably isn’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J
National Art Gallery (Nacionalinė Dailės Galerija)
G-3, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 60, www.ndg.
lt. Found inside a renovated and enlarged building that once
housed the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet
Socialist Republic, this bold endeavour showcases the work
of a multitude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and
21st century. Among the commendable cast of contributors,
examples on permanent display include work from a diverse
range of artists including the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz
(1891-1973) and the country’s most outstanding documentary
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
what to to see
Vilnius City Card
We’ve been delaying
writing
about the Vilnius
City Card
for a long time
now, based on
the simple fact
that it never really
offered value
for money,
a truth that’s no longer the case. Available from any
Tourist Information Centre in the city (see p.7) and
online via www.vilnius-tourism.lt, there are two different
types of card valid for either 24 hours (58Lt) or 72
hours (86Lt), both of which come with public transport,
with a further 24-hour version without public transport
for just 45Lt. The Vilnius City Card entitles holders
to all sorts of deals including free museum entry
and guided tours as well as discounts on a range of
things including concerts, meals in restaurants and
hotel bookings. Check the aforementioned website
for more detailed information.
photographer Antanas Sutkus (b. 1939). The museum is organised
to highlight particular styles, eras and political attitudes to
art in Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past century
and also stages temporary exhibitions that are well worth visiting.
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt.
National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muziejus)
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 26, www.lnm.lt.
Lithuania’s oldest museum, parts of the collection inside this
intriguing history lesson date back to the 13th century. On permanent
display are religious and secular items highlighting the
cultural and ethnographic life of the nation, including recreations
of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more.
Also to be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass
grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also
puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly outstanding.
A vital key for unlocking the secrets of the Lithuanian people.
Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (until April 30). Open
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon (from May 1).
Admission 5/2Lt. J
Tuskulėnai Peace Park Memorial Complex
(Tuskulėnų Rimties Parko Memorialinis Kompleksas)
Žirmūnų 1f, tel. (+370) 5 275 07 04. Between
1944 and 1947 over 700 Lithuanians, Poles and Jews were
executed on this site by the forerunner to the KGB and buried
in what was at the time State-owned property in the grounds
of the 19th-century Tuskulėnų Dvaras manor house. In 1994
the remains of the bodies were discovered and the area has
since been turned into a memorial park. The park complex
comprises the manor house, the former stable building next
door that now houses an art gallery and the Secrets of
Tuskulėnai Manor exhibition, dedicated to both the history
of the estate and the crimes that took place there during
the Soviet occupation. The jewel in the crown however is the
columbarium (kolumbariumas), an extraordinary underground
burial chamber that’s more of a mass a mausoleum and where
the remains of the deceased are now kept. Tours in English
are available, and calling in advance to make sure everything’s
open is recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Exposition open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Also by appointment.
August - November 2012
57

58 what to see
Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveikslų Galerija)
C-3, Didžioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.lt.
Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkevičiai (Chodkiewicz)
family palace, this splendid little museum is of the type
in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around
from room to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and
enjoy a great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture
plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of exemplary furniture, all of
it representing the last several hundred years of achievement.
They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some
are well worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Churches
Bernardine Church & Monastery (Bernardinų
Bažnyčia ir Vienuolynas) D-3, Maironio 10, tel. (+370)
5 260 92 92. Once forming part of the city’s original defensive
walls and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church
dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest of
an order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church
with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the early
part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs on
display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before
the Soviet authorities took control of the building, handing it
over to the Vilnius Art Institute who among other things allegedly
incorporated parts of the interior into the works of art the
academy was producing. Returned to the monks soon after
independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to
this day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo
altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dating
from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery is the
oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive
library and independent-minded monks, the monastery was
closed soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into
a barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of the
city’s Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now houses
the Vilnius Art Academy. Q Mass Mon, Tue, Thu 07:30, Wed
07:30, 18:00, Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00
(English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J
Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine (Šv. Konstantino
ir Michailo Cerkvė) H-4, J. Basanavičiaus
27, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 90. Built in 1913 at the very end
of tsarist rule within the city as part of the 300th anniversary
celebrations of the Romanov Dynasty, this rather absurdlooking
Russian Orthodox church is famed hereabouts for its
garish green domes. On closer inspection, the church, which
supposedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and
Suzdal styles, is a beautiful design, as early postcards showing
the original dome designs attest. The interior is relatively plain,
and only really recommended for serious enthusiasts.
Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of
God (Znamenskaya) G-3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370) 5
275 13 75. Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful
Neo-Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the best loved Russian
Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons
hanging inside are potted plants that make the place feel
really alive. Next to the icons are special prayers for each
saint, but as everything in the church is written in Old Church
Slavonic you’ll need a translator to help work them out. The
church was fully restored inside and out in 2009 Q Service
Sat 16:00, Sun 09:00.
Church of the Holy Cross (Šv. Kryžiaus Bažnyčia)
B-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93 47. On the other
side of the Presidential Palace from the University, this charming
little church’s history dates back to 1543 and the building
of a chapel on the site to commemorate the martyrdom of a
group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over
the centuries, including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the
church is now more or less late Baroque in appearance with a
few rococo flourishes, and is notable as being the only church
in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being
purpose-built. The small interior is well worth having a peep at
if the main doors aren’t bolted as they usually are, the most
outstanding feature being the painting, Holy Virgin Mother
of Snow on the high altar, a copy of which can be found on
the fresco over the main entrance. The small square in which
the church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-era bust
of Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius (1753-1798), Lithuania’s first
serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary
look of the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus
among other buildings in the city. Q Mass 17:15, Sun 09:30,
12:00.
Church of the Holy Mother of God (Skaisčiausios
Dievo Motinos Cerkvė) D-3, Maironio 14, tel. (+370)
5 215 37 47. Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th
century, this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions
as the city’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such is
often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius
owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruction
work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after the start of
tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius
University who divided it into two floors, constructing a library,
classrooms and dissection rooms for anatomy classes inside.
In 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks
before it took on several other uses before General Muravyov
and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian appearance
and used as a house of worship towards the end of the
1860s. Q Service Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Church of the Holy Spirit (Šventosios Dvasios
Bažnyčia) B-3, Dominikonų 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 95
95. Like many of the city’s churches, the Dominican Church
of the Holy Spirit was built on the site of a former wooden
house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current building’s
appearance started taking shape towards the end of the
14th century. In 1501 it was given to an order of Dominican
monks who built a monastery nearby. Its present Baroque
appearance dates to the mid-18th century when the church
was rebuilt after serious fire damage. Inside is a wealth of
Baroque and rococo splendour, well worth further investigation.
Interestingly, the building, which functions as Vilnius’
Polish Catholic community’s main church, remained opened
throughout the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access
to the church’s crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst
some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from
the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly
victims of the plague. Q Mass only in Polish 15:00, 18:00,
Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J
Cathedral
Cathedral-Basilica of
St. Stanislaus & St.
Ladislaus (Vilniaus
Šv. Stanislovo ir Šv.
Vladislovo Arkikatedra
Bazilika) C-2,
Katedros 1, tel. (+370)
5 261 11 27. The most
important Catholic building
in Lithuania, Vilnius Cathedral as it’s more usually known
was first built in 1251 by a newly converted Grand Duke
Mindaugas on the site of a supposed pagan temple.
Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas’ death in 1263,
the church was given back to the Catholic Church on the
country’s official conversion to Christianity in 1387, although
the building that now stands in its place has little to
do with the original structure. The current building dates to
around 1419, with countless modifications and additions
made after that. Its present Neo-Classical form is largely
down to the work of the Lithuania’s first true architect,
Laurynas Stuoka Gucevičius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz,
1753-1798), who was also responsible for a number of
other notable buildings in the city including the Town Hall.
The rather plain nave betrays eleven chapels, among them
the must-see High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-
1484), Lithuania’s patron saint. Built in 1636 to house
his remains, the chapel is one of the country’s national
treasures. The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena
and Casimir on the roof, supposedly representing Poland,
Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century
originals which were taken down and lost by the Soviets
in 1950, the year the building was confiscated from the
Catholics. Spending several years as an art gallery and
even mooted as a car repair workshop at one time, the
Cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church on October
22, 1988 during the eventful Sąjūdis Congress and was
re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The 57-metre freestanding
bell tower, a popular contemporary meeting
place, was originally part of one of the gates in the city’s
defensive wall and has been added to several times over
the centuries which gives it its peculiar shape. It received
six new bells in 2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bačkis,
the current Archbishop of Vilnius, in a special ceremony.
Q Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00,
11:15, 12:30, 17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
what to see
Evangelical Lutheran Church (Evangelikų
Liuteronų Bažnyčia) B-4, Vokiečių 20, tel. (+370)
5 212 21 25. Built in 1555, two years after the first
German-speaking Lutheran community is said to have
arrived in Vilnius, the crowning glory of this small Gothic
and Baroque church on the street named after the city’s
German community is the gorgeous rococo altar, dating
from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz
(Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767), a Lithuanian
of German extraction and the city’s foremost architect
at the time. Serving as a workshop and basketball court
under the Communists, the building was returned to its
congregation in 1991 and has since become the predominant
house of worship for the capital’s multi-denomination,
English-speaking Christians. Q Service Tue, Thu 08:00,
Wed 18:00, Fri, 17:00, Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumenical
Protestant), 11:00 (Lithuanian). J
Franciscan Church (Pranciškonų Bažnyčia) B-4,
Trakų 9-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 42. The Franciscan
Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed
Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to give it
its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th century.
Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling Gothic
and Baroque magnificence, work continues both inside
and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst the
hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on the
sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly moving
forwards. At the time of our last visit, the Chapel of the
Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the lady reputed
to have miracle-working powers, was nearing completion,
giving some indication of how things will eventually look.
Q Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00
(Lithuanian), 11:30 (Polish), 13:00 (Polish). J
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate (Šv. Trejybės
Cerkvė ir Bazilijonų Vartai) C-5, Aušros Vartų 7b, tel.
(+370) 5 212 25 78. Consisting of a church, monastery,
belfry and beautiful rococo gate, with the exception of the
latter much of it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity
Church originally dates from 1514 and features elements of
Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the
behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich
Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogiškis, ca. 1460-1530), the
church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire in
the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates or
Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses together
many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as God’s
representative on Earth. The church is a complete mess
inside, almost completely empty with the exception of some
wonderful, barely visible frescos both inside and out. There’s
also a small chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation
work is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761
to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas
Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767). Q Service only in Ukrainian Mon
- Wed 06:30, Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00. J
Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnickaya)
C-3, Didžioji 2. Dating back to the middle of the 14th century
and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a former
pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat diminutive
Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not only claim to have
been the first church in Vilnius to be made of stone but is also
the alleged location of the baptism in 1705 of none other than
Hannibal, the African prince and great grandfather of Alexander
Pushkin who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the
part of Africa that’s now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the
Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on several occasions
due to fire, fell into disrepair around the time of the Third
Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for seven decades before
August - November 2012
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60 what to see
being almost completely rebuilt in 1864 only to suffer major
fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building
closed in 1961, opening a year later as a museum of painting
before being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991.
Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services
are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday. J
Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Stačiatikių Šv.
Dvasios Cerkvė) C-5, Aušros Vartų 10, tel. (+370) 5 212
77 65. Dating originally from the mid-16th century but predominantly
now the combined work of the city’s most renowned and
prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas
Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years on the
rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century
Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is comprised
of the church, a free-standing bell tower, monastery and convent
although it’s the church interior that’s of most interest, being
positively bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and
rich blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the church’s
crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as
the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints
Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose
remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in black
during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the exception of
June 26 when they’re put on display entirely naked. Q Service
08:00, 17:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. J
Reformed Evangelical Church (Evangelikų
Reformatų Bažnyčia) A-3, Pylimo 20, tel. (+370) 5 279
10 52. The origin of the Protestant Church in Lithuania, whose
three traditional strongholds still exist in Biržai, Kėdainiai and
Vilnius, dates back to John Calvin’s lifetime in 1557, although
this particular church, considered one of the finest examples of
Neo-Classical architecture in the country, was built considerably
later between 1830 and 1835. The work of one of the best
local Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podčašinskis
(Pol. Karol Podczaszyński, 1790-1860), the church was closed
by the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact
the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still in
use. Q Service in Lithuanian Sun 11:00. J
St. Anne’s Church (Šv. Onos Bažnyčia) D-3,
Maironio 8. Unquestionably one of the city’s most famous
landmarks and quite rightly so, the history of St. Anne’s starts
with the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden
house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the wife of Vytautas
the Great. The first historical records of a church here
date from 1394, although the current Gothic masterpiece is
believed to have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a
design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534),
most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike
other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Anne’s has managed
to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is arguably
the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different
styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole,
the effect is simply quite stunning. It’s been said the façade
incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the country’s
earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking
at it. The interior is surprisingly free of ostentation, although
this is hardly needed due to the spectacular design of the
structure. The free-standing bell tower has nothing to do with
the original design, being built only in 1873. A visiting Emperor
Napoleon in 1812 famously if somewhat apocryphally noted
he’d like to take the building back to Paris in the palm of his
hand. Q Mass 18:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J
St. Casimir’s Church (Šv. Kazimiero Bažnyčia)
C-4, Didžioji 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 15. St. Casimir’s
in many ways represents a microcosm of Lithuania itself.
Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuania’s patron
saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (1458-1484), construction
on the mighty building began in 1604 and was completed
in 1635. Burnt to the ground just 20 years later when the
Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again
within the next century in 1709 and 1749 before the architect,
mathematician and astronomer Tomas Žebrauskas (Pol.
Thomas Zubrówka, 1714-1758) restored it to more or less
the form it’s seen in today. Over the centuries the church
fell into the hands of the Augustinians, Napoleon’s Grande
Armée, the Russian Orthodox Church (who significantly
altered its appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the
garrison church for the occupying German Army during WWI)
and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place
into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic
Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and
has since undergone a massive renovation project, restoring
its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Renaissance
touches. Of particular interest inside are three late Baroque
altars and a recently discovered 17th-century crypt containing
dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs.
Q Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00 (Russian), 10:30, 12:00. J
St. Nicholas’ Church (Šv. Mikalojaus Bažnyčia)
B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 69. Predating
the country’s conversion to Christianity by some seven
decades, Vilnius’ oldest surviving church was built in 1320 by
German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the first time
in 1387, the impressive, classic red brick Gothic exterior
remains pretty much as it looked the day it was finished with
the interior having received numerous changes and additions
over the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the
Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the only
church in the city open to the city’s small Lithuanian-speaking
Catholic community. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun
08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J
St. Nicolas’ Church (Šv. Nikolajaus Cerkvė) C-4,
Didžioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 85 59. The forerunner to
this church supposedly dates back to the second decade
of the 16th century, belonging from 1609 until 1827 to the
Uniate Church. At some time during the 18th century the
original church burnt down and was replaced soon after in the
Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between
the Russians and several other ethnic communities in the
city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General
Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church
with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With
its predominantly Catholic tower and typically Orthodox
dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses
of worship in the capital. Q Services Sat 09:00, 17:00,
Sun 09:00. J
Sts. Johns’ Church (Šv. Jonų Bažnyčia) C-3, Šv.
Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55. Built at the same time
as Lithuania’s conversion to Christianity in 1387, albeit with
numerous radical alterations through the centuries, the
vast and imposing Sts. Johns’ Church was given to the
Jesuit Church in 1571 by Zygmunt II August (Žygimantas
Augustas, 1520-1572). On the dissolution of the Jesuit
Order in 1773, the church was handed over to the adjoining
University. The present building, which contains elements
of all of the major architectural styles associated with Old
Town boasts an extraordinary and predominantly Gothic
interior whose crowning glory is its organ of which parts
date back to an organ that came from the Belarusian city of
Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the largest in country and that
received a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and
2000, is used extensively in classical concerts the church
is now famous for. Q Mass Tue - Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00,
13:00. J
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Sts. Peter & Pauls’ Church (Šv. Apaštalų Petro ir
Povilo Bažnyčia) J-3, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5 234
02 29. Believed to have been built on the site of a site of
worship to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking
Late Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate
victory over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac,
the Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived
to see its completion. Financed by two of Pac’s cousins and
completed under several master craftsmen including the
Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather
plain façade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and
Giovanni Maria Galli that’s quite simply out of this world. Containing
over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing
miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal
magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing a wooden
figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jėzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which
features real human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the
Latvian chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating
from 1905. Q Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00, Sun
07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 (Polish), 18:00.
St. Theresa’s Church (Šv. Teresės Bažnyčia) C-5,
Aušros Vartų 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Probably Vilnius’
best surviving example of Early Baroque religious architecture,
work on the first incarnation of St. Theresa’s was completed
in around 1650. Built at the behest and expense of the then
Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac), the
straightforward idea behind its construction was to create
the most beautiful church in the city, a fact that can clearly
be seen by its elaborate façade, predominantly the work of
the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647) who also
worked on St. George’s Chapel inside the city’s Cathedral.
The spectacular and predominantly rococo interior, much of
it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds
and pinks. J
Places of interest
Centre of Europe (Europos Centras) Lithuania has
the proud and noble distinction along with at least six other
places of being smack in the middle of Europe. The Lithuanian
claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George Affholder of
France’s Institut Géographique National who announced that
the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village of Purnuškės
some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point, which can be
reached by driving out of the city on the A14 in the direction
of Molėtai and looking for the signs, has been commemorated
with the construction of an expensive monument, a fact that
may go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation
placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius
is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation.
Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept
and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair
slightly ridiculous in the first place.
Dawn Gate (Aušros Vartai) C-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel.
(+370) 5 212 35 13. Completed in 1522, the Dawn Gate (or
Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama) as it’s known to the Poles) is the
only remaining gate from the city’s original defensive walls.
As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary
was placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story
of the Dawn Gate starts from this simple historic fact. The
current image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother
of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630
by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver
about 40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-built
chapel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic
healing powers. Interestingly, the Dawn Gate is revered by
both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an important
part of the city’s cultural heritage that it remained open
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
what to see
Keturiasdešimt Totorių
In 1397, Vytautas
the Great,
known as Vitaut
(Вітаўт) to the
Belarusians and
Witold to th e
Poles, famously
settled a group
of former Tatar
p r i s o n e r s o f
war and their
families in the
Grand Duchy of
Lithuania in the
then culturally
and ethnically
complex region
around Vilnius,
Richard Schofield
or Vilna as it
was called at the
time. These Turkic newcomers, who became known as
the Lipka Tatars (Lipka probably from the Crimean Tatar
word for Lithuania), sprang up in several settlements in
the area including today’s tiny village of Keturiasdešimt
Totorių (Forty Tatars), one of the oldest Lipka Tatar
settlements in the former Grand Duchy of Lithuania and
just 20km south of Vilnius. The history and culture of the
Lipka Tatars is a beguiling mix of influences embodying
the religions of shamanism, Islam and Christianity and a
language that evolved into a form of spoken Belarusian
that was written in the Arabic script, a unique language
that lasted well into the 1930s. Predominantly Islamic,
the Lipka Tatars had an unusually liberal attitude towards
women, with co-education being the norm, although this
didn’t stop polygamy, a practice that allegedly bought
about the name Keturiasdešimt Totorių with the no doubt
apocryphal story of a local Lipka Tatar man who had four
wives that each bore him 10 sons. Keturiasdešimt Totorių
is a typical local anomaly, being both infamous although
seldom visited, the latter perhaps for good reason as
there’s little to see beyond the village’s wooden mosque,
first mentioned in written sources in 1558 and rebuilt in
1815 after Napoleon’s Grande Armée raised it to the
ground during the ill-fated invasion of Russia two centuries
ago. Despite the lack of local attractions, a short
visit to Keturiasdešimt Totorių is highly recommended,
not least for anyone with even a passing interest in the
strange and illustrious history of the region. Now looking
entirely out of place, the mosque is the Islamic version
of the local Catholic wooden village church, simple in
design and unfortunately seldom open to the public. The
main attraction however is the surrounding cemetery
complete with gravestones dating back hundreds of
years and many carved with a star and the Moon at the
top with Arabic inscriptions underneath. Getting to the
village can be a bit of an adventure for those without
access to a car or the strength to cycle there. The N°42
bus service runs fairly regularly from the stop in the
northwestern corner of the large square outside the
train and bus stations, but only goes as far as the small
town of Pagiriai, two kilometres short of the required
destination. Alternatively, a local service runs from the
bus station all the way to Keturiasdešimt Totorių several
times a day, continuing the journey to Skarbutenai before
turning round and coming back again. This gives visitors
about 45 minutes to see the mosque.
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62 what to see
Europos Parkas
Europos Parkas (Open Air Museum of the
Centre of Europe) Joneikiškės, 10km north
of Vilnius, tel. (+370) 5 237 70 77, www.europosparkas.lt.
Founded in 1991 by the Lithuanian
sculptor Gintaras Karosas, this wildly different and
recommended countryside excursion brings together
a number of names in local and international sculpture
including Karosas himself, the Polish artist Magdalena
Abakanowicz as well as Dennis Oppenheim and the late
Sol Le-Witt from the United States to create a vision
that in the words of the park’s founder ‘…give[s] an
artistic significance to the geographic centre of the
European continent…’. Featuring close on 100 works
by artists from countries as diverse as Armenia, Japan
and Venezuela, the park is spread out over 55 hectares
of rolling hills and woodland and includes static and
interactive art as well as the now infamous Info Tree,
Karosas’ crumbling shrine to propaganda made up
of some 3,000 televisions with a prostrate Lenin at
its centre. With the addition of a restaurant and gift
shop, the park offers a splendid few hours away from
the city for people of all ages. To get there by car,
take Kalvarijų north to the Santariškės roundabout,
turn right towards the Green Lakes (Žalieji Ežerai) and
follow the signs. Buses leave from the Žalgirio stop on
Kalvarijų, including a minibus to Skirgiškės which goes
all the way to the park itself. Alternatively, bus N°36
goes part of the way there but requires the last couple
of kilometres to be made on foot. Q Open 10:00 - two
hours before sunset. Admission 25/11Lt.
Dennis Oppenheim. Drinking Structure with exposed
Kidney Pool
throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closely as people
walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is open
to the public and is accessed via a small door on the left as
you’re walking up the hill. Q Mass 07:30 (Latin), 09:00, 10:00
(Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun 09:00 (Polish), 09:30,
11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30. J
Green Bridge (Žaliasis Tiltas) H-3. A bridge of one
description or another has stood on the spot of the Green
Bridge since 1536. The current 103-metre metal construction
dates from 1952 and was originally named after a Red Army
general. The four groups of extraordinary sculptures at each
corner represent agriculture (3.2m, sculptors B. Bučas and P.
Vaivada), industry and construction (3.2m, sculptors N. Petrulis
and B. Vyšniauskas), peace (4m, sculptor B. Pundzius) and that
old Soviet chestnut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J. Mikėnas and J.
Kėdainis). One of a few examples of blatantly Soviet art still in
a public place, the Socialist Realist masterpieces have evaded
removal on the grounds that they represent no real people living
or dead. Criminally rusting and falling apart, something needs
to be done to ensure that they stay around for many years to
come. Meanwhile, underneath the bridge can be found Kunotas
Vildžiūnas’ contemporary work Grandinė (Chain). Yawn.
Hill of Three Crosses (Trijų Kryžių Kalnas) I-3.
Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were
crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin had
the crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were they
rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are a great
symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An excellent
view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot.
Kenesa F-3, Liubarto 6. The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim are
the smallest ethnic historical community in Vilnius, with just 150
or so remaining members of a people who settled in the region in
the 14th century. The Karaite, from whom they get their name, are
a Jewish sect who can be traced back to Mesopotamia (modern
day Iraq) who adhere to the Old Testament and the Decalogue,
but don’t accept the Talmud. The Lithuanian Karaite were
originally Tatars living on the Black Sea, almost certainly Muslim
and who were converted to the Karaite faith in the 13th century.
Enigmatic and as yet not properly understood, the Lithuanian
Karaite, who number less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge
of extinction. During the Soviet occupation, their Moorish-looking
kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into a warehouse.
Like the country’s other remaining kenesa in Trakai, the building
is almost always locked.
Literatų Gatvė C-2/3, Literatų. Inspired by Aidas
Marčėnas’s poem Literatų Gatvė about a wistful young man
drinking and smoking with his friends on the street of the same
name, the highly recommended permanent outdoor gallery on
Literatų is dedicated to writers past and present who’ve all
left their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media
prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from
Jonas Mekas to Czesław Miłosz to Romain Gary, the gallery,
all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in
2008 and now features over 100 superb pieces.
M. K. Čiurlionis’ House (M. K. Čiurlionio Namai)
C-4, Savičiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 51. Although more
famous for his painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis
(1875-1911) has quite a reputation as a composer. This is
the house in which the great man lived for a short time in
a small room that can be visited. The rest of the building,
which during Čiurlionis’ time was both a family house and
a shop, features reproductions of his paintings and a small
concert space which stages musical productions almost
every Wednesday evening. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free. J
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Presidential Palace (Prezidentūra) C-2, S. Daukanto
Aikštė 3/8, www.president.lt. The official residence
of the President of Lithuania, the Presidential Palace started
life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure built
at the behest of the city’s first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzębiec
(?-1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later,
the building remained the home of the cream of the city’s
Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when it became
the residential address of Vilnius’ tsarist governors. Many
illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over the
centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte
and local boy, some-time dictator, military giant and
Polish national hero Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) to name
but a few. After independence in 1990 the building served
several purposes until assuming its current role in 1997.
The presidential flag can be seen flying over the building
when the President is in residence or in the city. Changing
of the Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. Q Free
tours of the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays and
Saturdays. Tours are limited to 25 people and are currently
in Lithuanian only. For more information, see www.president.
lt or call tel. (+370) 5 266 40 73. J
Stebuklas C-2, Arkikatedros Square. About halfway
between the Cathedral and the bell tower is the stebuklas,
or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone believed to perform
wonders and with the word stebuklas written on it, the site
marks the spot where one end of the human chain of some
two million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians
stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on August
23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on the miracle,
turn a complete clockwise circle and make a wish. J
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what to see
Television Tower (Televizijos Bokštas) Sausio 13osios
10, tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33, www.lrtc.net. The
tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television Tower was
built from reinforced concrete and steel between 1974 and
1980 to a design by V. Obydovas and K. Balėnas. On January
13, 1991 as the disintegration of the USSR reached a frenzied
pace and Moscow attempted to retake control of the Lithuanian
media, Soviet tanks surrounded it in an assault that
killed 13 unarmed civilians. The tower has since become a
potent Lithuanian symbol. Around it are a few monuments and
photographs of those who lost their lives and whose names
the nearby streets are now called in honour of. Inside at
ground level is the small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January
13th Exhibition) commemorating the brutal events including
a copy of the original Soviet military attack plan, weapons
used to beat protesters and some disturbing photographs.
The exhibition is free, although the 40-second ride in the lift
to visit the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station
isn’t. The ticket office also sells several Television Tower
souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the
region of 20Lt. Alternatively, take trolleybus Nº1, 3, 7 or 16
to the Televizijos Bokštas stop. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Last
entrance 21:00. Admission 21Lt.
Town Hall (Rotušė) C-4, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 5 261
80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. First mentioned in 1503,
the Town Hall most likely dates from the 15th century, while
the present Classical structure was built at the end of the
18th century. In 1810 the governor general ordered that the
Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave performances on and
off until 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum.
Until the reestablishment of independence it served as the
Lithuanian Art Museum. Today it’s the Artists’ Palace where
you can see gallery art. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
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64 what to see
Trakai
First mentioned in 1337 by the Teutonic Knights, and one
of Lithuania’s former medieval capitals, despite being
home to just 5,400 souls modern-day Trakai provides
boundless cultural and pastoral experiences for scores
of urbanites of both local and foreign persuasion, year
round. Crowned by a magnificent Gothic castle (see
below), Trakai is equally well known for its many inhabitants
both past and present, among them Lithuanians,
Jews, Poles (who still make up a small percentage of the
population and who know the town as Troki), Russians,
Tatars and the Lithuanian Karaite, an intriguing, Turkicspeaking
offshoot of the larger Judaic Karaite movement
who arrived in the town from the Crimea at the end of
the 14th century and who are currently teetering on the
border of extinction. Just 28km west of Vilnius, Trakai is
both a tempting daytrip as well as a destination worthy
of further attention thanks to it being located inside the
country’s smallest national park. More like playing a giant
game of snakes and ladders designed by MC Escher
than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai History
Museum is spread around the Castle and linked via a baffling
array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and dark,
plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections are
to be found inside the western casemates (casements)
and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting
made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory
walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collection
of items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a huge
collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the
Lithuanian Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval
gentlemen with enormous handlebar moustaches. Some
explanations are in English, but much remains in Lithuanian,
Russian and German only. More than worth it for
a look around the Castle if nothing else.
Castle & Trakai History Museum (Trakų Pilis
ir Trakų Istorijos Muziejus) Tel. (+370) 5 285
39 46, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00
(until April 30). Closed Mon. Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from
May 1). Admission 14/8/6Lt.
Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas)
C-2/3, Universiteto 3, tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.
vu.lt. Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universities
in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes
up Vilnius University’s main campus buildings embraces
just about every major architectural style of the last 400
years. Originally belonging to the Catholic Church, the
University became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and
has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th
and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past
students who’ve studied here include the Polish Romantic
poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, the Lithuanian
author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him
on any 100Lt note) and the Lithuania-born Polish Nobel
Prize-winning author Czesław Miłosz. As well as housing
the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also
famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on
your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12
or 13. The University itself claims 13, although by rights
the correct number should be 12 as one of them only
has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during
construction work on the neighbouring Presidential Palace.
The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well
worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto
7 explaining where everything is. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. Admission 5/1Lt. J
Monuments
Frank Zappa A-3, K. Kalinausko 1. Hot Rats! Deceased
rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer, father of
Moon Unit and all round creative genius Frank Vincent Zappa
(1940-1993) has had his head immortalised in brass and
stuck on a stainless steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just
west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created
by the late sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011) who
once churned out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for
the bureaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being
the first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the
world. If you’re now wondering what the connection between
Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, don’t. There isn’t one. J
Grand Duke Gediminas C-2, Arkikatedros Square.
Unveiled in September 1996, the monument to Gediminas
(Pol. Giedymin, 1275-1341), who famously founded Vilnius in
1323 and who was also Grand Duke of Lithuania from 1316
until his death, stands more or less on the spot where a howling
iron wolf that inspired the moving of the country’s capital
from Trakai allegedly appeared in his dream. Strangely, the
aforementioned beast is represented in V. Kašuba’s creation
not in metal as one would expect, but in stone. J
Lazdynų Pelėda C-5, Karmelitų & Arklių. Lazdynų
Pelėda (Hazelnut Owl) was the collective pen name of two
sisters, Sofija Ivanauskaitė-Pšibiliauskienė (1867-1926) and
Marija Ivanauskaitė-Lastauskienė (1872-1957). Born into a
family of Polish-speaking nobility in the village of Paragiai in
northeast Lithuania, their stories, often full of political observation,
were written in Polish by Marija and then translated
into Lithuanian by her sibling. The Egyptian style sculpture
made in their likeness and unveiled in 1995 is officially known
as Seserys (Sisters) and is the work of the sculptor Dalia
Matulaitė and the architects Rimantas Buivydas and Juras
Pankevičius. J
Mindaugas C-1, Arsenalo 1. Taking pride of place outside
the National Museum since July 6, 2003, the 750th anniversary
of the crowning of the country’s one and only king in
1253, Mindaugas (Pol. Mendog, 1200-1263), who’s generally
considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

it of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal affairs
and switching from paganism to Catholicism and back
to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventually
assassinated by his nephew and served as little more than
a footnote in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by
the national revival movement of the late 19th century. R.
Midvikis’ granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his
sostas (throne), from which the Lithuanian language gets
its word for capital, sostinė, literally ‘the place where the
throne is’. J
Užupis Angel D-3, Užupio. After a long and singularly
strange career as an oversized egg cup, the tall pillar in the
heart of Vilnius’ breakaway republic Užupis (where every
dog has the right to be a dog) finally gave birth to a long
awaited angel on April 1, 2002, the official independence
day of the wacky district. After a long and sometimes tedious
unveiling ceremony, the covers were finally lifted, and
in a big burst of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful
figure of an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and
generally being rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian
sculptor R. Vilčiauskas, find it at the junction of Užupio and
Malūnų. J
Žemaitė A-1, Gedimino 27-29. Born into an impoverished
Polish-speaking family with aristocratic roots and affectations,
as a child the Lithuanian novelist Žemaitė (real name Julija
Beniuševičiūtė-Žymantienė, 1845-1921) was forbidden to
speak Lithuanian, at the time the language of the common
people. Inquisitive and defiant, the young Žemaitė made
friends with local serfs and was soon fluent in her mother
tongue, the language in which she was eventually to write in.
Self taught and unusually political for a woman at the time,
Žemaitė’s sombre tales concentrate on issues surrounding
the miseries of peasant life and family squabbles, all written
in the local vernacular. Her statue, the work of the sculptor
Petras Aleksandravičius and architect brothers Algimantas
and Vytautas Nasvytis, was unveiled, somewhat strangely,
at the height of the Cold War in 1970.
Parks & Gardens
Although they like to flee en masse to the countryside during
the warmer part of the year, the good people of Vilnius
are also fond of spending time in the city’s many public
green spaces. Regardless of the fact that there’s very
little in the way of chaos to get away from, Vilnius’ parks
and gardens can still provide a welcome relief from the
immediate concerns of the 21st century. Here are some of
the highlights.
Kalnų Parkas D-1. Covering some 25 hectares immediately
northeast of Old Town at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia,
Kalnų Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular retreat for walks and, during
the summer, concerts on the park’s Soviet-era outdoor stage.
Also home to the Hill of Three Crosses (see Places of interest),
the area the park now occupies is shrouded in a number of
contentious mysteries. The so-called Gedimino Kapo Kalnas
(Gediminas’ Grave Hill) for example, one of the park’s four hills
and now a spiritual gathering ground for many followers of the
country’s pagan Romuva organisation, is supposedly the site
where the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Grand Duke
Gediminas (ca. 1275-1341) is buried. No such evidence exists
to support the claim however.
Vingio Parkas F-4. Situated to the west of the city along
the meandering Neris river, this wooded park covering 160
hectares of pine woods was famed as far back as the 16th
century. It’s believed that Alexander I was at a ball here when
he received news of Napoleon’s invasion in 1812, an event
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
what to see
mentioned in Tolstoy’s War and Peace. The park is more
famous these days as the setting for rock concerts, firework
displays, jogging and the launching of hot-air balloons during
balmy summer evenings. Also within its confines are a botanical
gardens and a fabulous little children’s zoo.
Cemeteries
Vilnius’ extraordinary cemeteries offer an often emotional
and always interesting journey through the rich tapestry
of races and cultures that built the city. For information on
the city’s two Jewish cemeteries, see Jewish Vilnius.
Antakalnis Cemetery (Antakalnio Kapinės) J/K-2,
Karių Kapų 11. Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way
back in 1809, the so-called Soldiers’ Cemetery (Karių Kapinės)
can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple of
kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers’ graveyard,
distinguished by undulating rows of identical headstones, lies
to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands a small collection of
Tartar graves complete with Islamic symbols. To the left and
deeper into the cemetery, large Soviet soldiers guard the (nolonger
burning) eternal flame. To the soldiers’ right is the ghastly
Soviet memorial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuania’s
dignitaries. Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the
‘red star’ graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian
partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the border
guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on July 31, 1991
and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroopers during the January
1991 demonstrations, all guarded by a stunning Pietà. Still
in use, among the more notable recent additions are a large
patch of grass surrounded by a tiny concrete wall and containing
the remains of the Napoleonic soldiers discovered in the
city in 2002, and the final resting place of the often overlooked
Lithuanian composer Antanas Rekašius (1928-2003).
August - November 2012
65

66 what to see
Sightseeing tours
Astrida G-3, J. Tumo-Vaižganto 5, tel. (+370)
5 212 27 90, www.astrida.lt. Miscellaneous city
tours and tours further afield in a range of languages
including such rarities as Chinese, Japanese and
Portuguese. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center
C-4, Subačiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. Guided
tours around the city, region and country. Must be booked
in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Lithuanian Holidays H-1, Šeimyniškių 1a, tel.
(+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt.
Jewish and other Vilnius tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Oreivystės Centras (Ballooning Centre) H-3,
Upės 5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.ballooning.lt.
As well as organising a wealth of balloon-related activities
nationwide, these people also offer balloon trips over
Vilnius and locations around the country. The trips are
well priced and last on average about one hour.
Vilnius City Tour C-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370)
699 540 64, www.vilniuscitytour.com. Tours of the
historic centre in a number of languages. Also audio
guides available. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30
- 15:00. JA
Bernardine Cemetery (Bernardinų Kapinės) J-4,
Žvirgždyno 3. Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the
cemetery is perhaps the most attractive and romantic
cemetery in Vilnius. Located over a little less than four
hectares on a rolling hill running down to the Vilnia river,
the cemetery fell into disrepair soon after WWII before
being finally shut in 1970. Independence has seen it
flourish with the assistance of the Lithuanian and Polish
governments, although much work remains to be done.
Of particular interest are the columbaria, once used for
holding urns full of ashes and now slowly crumbling away.
Among the eminent university professors, scientists and
painters buried here find a few surprises including Geleda
Dzerzhinskaja (1849-1896), whose claim to fame was giving
birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Felix
Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas Dzeržinskis).
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar Cemetery (Karaimų ir
Totorių Kapinės) Žirnių. Following the destruction in the
mid-1960s of the original cemetery in Lukiškės, the former
traditional home of the city’s Lithuanian Karaite and Tatar
communities, a new cemetery was opened in a remote area
in the southern part of Vilnius close to the airport. Among
the graves, which are marked in an extraordinary mixture
of Hebrew (Lithuanian Karaite) and Arabic (Tatar), is that of
the Lithuanian Karaite scientist, historian and head of the
Lithuanian and Polish Karaite communities Chadži Seraja
Chan Šapšalas (Pol. Hadżi Seraja Chan Szapszał, 1873-
1961). The cemetery is still in use, but is generally closed
to visitors (although the fence surrounding it is hardly very
high). According to tradition, women are forbidden from visiting.
Find it on the stretch of Žirnių to the east of the road to
the airport, before the ski slopes on the north side.
Rasos Cemetery (Rasų Kapinės) I/J-5, Rasų/
Sukilėlių. Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of
many of the country’s social elite, this extraordinary cemetery
stretched over a large area divided by a main road is
still in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the
cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the artist and
composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875-1911), the
author and publicist Jonas Basanavičius (1851-1927), whose
grave is inscribed with a peculiar, 19th-century version of
Lithuanian that predates its written standardisation, and the
heart of Marshall Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935), the local-born
Polish general who played a key role in re-establishing Polish
independence in 1918 as well as the country’s subsequent
annexation of Vilnius in 1920. Buried with his mother under
a black granite slab and surrounded by the graves of Polish
soldiers, the rest of him lies in Poland’s most sacred burial
place under Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral.
Vingio Parkas Soldiers Cemetery (VIlniaus
Vingio Parko Karių Kapinės) F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio.
A cemetery of one sort or another has been known to exist
here since victims of the plague were buried on the site in
1710. During the German occupation of Vilnius during WWI
the cemetery was used for soldiers from the German, Turkish,
Polish and Russian armies. In 1948 at the height of the
destruction of the final resting places of many of the former
inhabitants of the city, the Soviet authorities ripped up the
gravestones and the site lay abandoned until 1980 when
it was unceremoniously turned into a children’s playground
and public toilet. Thanks to the efforts of the Germans,
the 6.5 hectare site was renovated in 2001, with various
markers and a large monument placed where specific
burial sites were known to exist. At the eastern entrance
of Vingio Parkas, the cemetery offers a poignant glimpse
inside the former rich ethnic tapestry that once made up
the population of the city.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

For a complete guide to Jewish Vilnius see the website at
vilnius.inyourpocket.com.
Jewish life
Chabad Lubavitch Centre (Chabad Lubavitch
Žydų Religinė Bendruomenė) H-5, Bokšto 19/12,
tel. (+370) 615 838 44. This combined community
centre and synagogue is engaged in numerous religious
projects aimed at enlightening those who need enlightening
and restoring the spirit and sensibilities of religious
Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber
Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in Lithuania over the
last decade and a half, Chabad is especially known for its
festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at which everybody
is welcome. It also supplies visitors with kosher food and
needed religious items and services. QOpen 09:00 -
17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Choral Synagogue (Choralinė Sinagoga) H-4,
Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Built in a Moorish
style in 1903, this is the only one out of over 100 prewar
Jewish prayer houses that still functions. The term Choral
Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a choir section, a feature
considered by some a revolutionary form of modernisation
and assimilation at the time it was built. Rabbi Chaim Burstein,
who is here part of each month, officiates.
Jewish Community of Lithuania (Lietuvos Žydų
Bendruomenė) A-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30
03, www.lzb.lt. This is the country’s primary address for
its living Jewish people, providing a wide range of cultural,
communal and social services from kindergarten through to
senior level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich
(Simonas Alperavičius), legendary for standing up for Jewish
rights however and whenever the community comes under
challenge. Along with the two functioning houses of worship,
this is where you can meet the genuine Jewish locals. The
building also houses a youth club, Jewish Student Union,
Union of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp Inmates and
the Union of WWII Jewish Veterans. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Museums
Holocaust Museum (Holokausto Muziejus) H-4,
Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30. The smallest
but most important and best known component of the
three addresses that collectively comprise the city’s Vilna
Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also known
as the Green House) has been led for many years by the
indomitable champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel
Kostanian. One of its founders, Dr. Rachel Margolis, now
in her late 80s, has been in the news for several years as
one of the Jewish anti-Nazi partisan veterans wanted for
questioning by Lithuanian prosecutors. Unable to return
to Lithuania from Israel, her cause has been taken up by
US congressmen, members of the British House of Lords
and others internationally. The museum is famous for its
unvarnished, accurate account of the Holocaust in Lithuania
and the massive local involvement in the actual killing. Its
modest, old-fashioned exhibits are far from high modern, but
the heartfelt creation of local Holocaust survivors. Outside
is a small monument to Japan’s pre-war Vice Consul to
Lithuania, Chiune Sugihara, who issued thousands of visas
against orders, saving many Jews from certain death. Find
it at the top of a steep driveway and invisible to anyone
simply walking along on the street below. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 5/2Lt.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Jewish vilnius
Jewish tours
Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew
through the Baltics and Belarus.
Yulik Gurvitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09
Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85
Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56
Justina Petrauskaitė Tel. (+370) 699 540 64
Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91.
Statues & Memorials
Jewish Cemetery (Žydų Kapinės) E-1, Sudervės
Kelias 28. By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries
were destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign
diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as
the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to
the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually
opened just before the war and nowadays, especially on
Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves
of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals. The
Gaon’s grave attracts visitors from many countries who
leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of
the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery
can be obtained if it’s open. Gravestones are covered in
the writing of many languages including Yiddish, Lithuanian,
Russian, Polish and English. To get there by public transport
from the centre, take bus Nº73 from the Lukiškės stop or
Nº43 from the station.
Map of the Ghetto (Geto Žemėlapis) B-5,
Rūdninkų 18. On the site of the former gate to the larger
of Vilnius’ two ghettos, find a map showing the size and
positioning of the area where the city’s Jewish population
were kept before liquidation commenced. J
Paneriai
Paneriai Memorial Museum (Panerių Memorialinis
Muziejus) Agrastų 17, tel. (+370) 680 812
78. Between July 1941, and August 1944, approximately
100,000 people of whom over half were Jewish were
murdered at this site by the Nazis and a hotpotch of willing
Lithuanians from such sinister organisations as the
Ypatingasis Būrys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic
but necessary part of any Jewish-related visit to Lithuania,
find several monuments and the remains of the
pits where the victims were burned. The typical Sovietera
museum inside a small building on the murder site
features exhibits explained in a baffling and irregular mix
of languages including everything from stomach-churning
photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job it
was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold.
Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the
Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of Old
Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get off at
Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The site is
at the very end of the road. To get there by car, drive out
on Savanorių in the direction of Kaunas until you reach
the E28 highway, peel off here and look for the pitifully few
signs put up in order to help you get there. For a chilling,
eye-witness account of the events that took place here,
read Kazimierz Sakowicz’s extraordinary book Ponary
Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale. Q Museum open
09:00 - 17:00. Fri, Sat by appointment. Admission free.
August - November 2012
67

68 getting around
Public transport
Vilnius’ public transport system is made up of city and private
buses, minibuses and trolleybuses, with most routes running
from 05:00 until around 23:00. Single tickets for city buses
and trolleybuses can be purchased from any Lietuvos Spauda
kiosk or direct from the driver for a little extra. A single ticket
is valid for any one journey of any distance over any period of
time on any singular vehicle. With the exception of a coulple
of new bus services, almost no public transport runs in
Old Town. Travelling by public transport, especially during
rush hour, is not for the faint hearted. Expect to be poked,
squeezed and trod on. Pickpockets work several routes
around the city. It’s also worth mentioning that if you’re travelling
with a bag larger than 60cm x 40cm x 20cm you’re liable
for a 20Lt fine if it doesn’t have a ticket. See the box at the
bottom of this page for information on major changes to the
ticket system from August 15.
Buses Most buses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the
city, with a few private buses offering a ride for the same price
as a city bus if you bought your ticket from a kiosk (2Lt). For
the uninitiated, recognising which is a private and which is a
city bus isn’t easy. As a rule, city buses tend to be blue and
yellow, but not always. Private buses are a little faster as they
don’t always pull in at every stop along the route, although
they should. Tickets for private buses are only available on
board, and are sold by a conductor who makes a tour of the
vehicle every few stops. If riding on a city bus, single tickets
need to be validated in the appropriate device. Buy a ticket
from the driver if you don’t already have one for 2.50Lt.
Minibuses The minibus, or maršrutinis taksi to give it its correct
name (you may also hear one referred to as a Latvija), is a
privately-owned phenomenon as favoured in many former Soviet
republics. Often but not always bright yellow, minibuses currently
follow similar routes to buses and trolleybuses, are much faster,
and accordingly cost a little more to use (currently 3Lt). They have
no official stops, so in order to stop one you need to stand by the
side of the road and get its attention by waving your arm. Likewise,
you need to tell the driver when you want to get out again. When
crowded, hand your payment via other passengers to the driver.
At the time of going to press there’s a lot of talk about these
routes being changed so they don’t clash with the city-owned
buses. There’s also talk of stopping the services altogether. As
usual, nobody knows what’s going on, although it’s interesting
to note the city-owned bus company has just introduced their
first two minibus routes in the city. Coincidence?
Trolleybuses Many of them done up like a French tart’s
boudoir, Vilnius’ upside-down railway keeps a large part of
the city’s population on the move. Trolleybuses are often
policed by the sort of sweet old ladies usually found staffing
counters in English charity shops, although this lot are trained
in the martial arts, and can effortlessly remove ticketless lit-
Major ticket changes
As of August 15, tickets for city-owned buses and trolleybuses
will no longer be sold at kiosks. All paper tickets will
need to be bought from the driver at a flat rate of 2.50Lt for
any number of journeys within 30 minutes or 3.50Lt for any
number of journeys within one hour. The changes are part
of a major plan to encourage everyone to use a reusable
electronic ticket, known as a Vilniečio Kortelė or e-bilietas
and available from kiosks for 4Lt. These tickets should be
topped up from kiosks and scanned on board all vehicles,
for which the same amount as above will be deducted.
Further information is available online at www.vilniusticket.
lt, a website that is in Lithuanian only.
Public transport tickets
Bus Trolleybus Both
Single ticket 2Lt* 2Lt* n/a
Monthly pass Mon-Fri 75Lt 75Lt 100Lt
Monthly pass Mon-Sun 85Lt 85Lt 110Lt
Fine for no ticket 60-100Lt
As well as single-journey tickets, tickets valid for 24 hours
(13Lt), 72 hours (23Lt) and 240 hours (46Lt), that can be
used on all city buses and trolleybuses, can be bought from
the small kiosk just to the left of the (B-6) train station close
to the trolleybus stop as well as inside the little (B-1) Klientų
Informacinis Centras opposite the Novotel at Gedimino 9a.
A more convenient ticket system for people staying in Vilnius
for extended periods is the e-bilietas. Available for a onetime
payment of 8Lt, e-bilietas ticket prices are the same
as for ordinary tickets. Monthly tickets can be bought in any
Lietuvos Spauda kiosk showing the e-bilietas logo. One-day,
three-day and 10-day tickets can be bought from the small
kiosk (above) or online at www.transportobilietai.lt, which
was at the time of going to press sadly in Lithuanian only.
* From kiosks. Tickets from the driver cost 2.50Lt.
tle boys from vehicles by their ears. Ticket etiquette, should
you prefer to buy one rather than pay a fine or argue with an
elderly spinster, is the same as for city buses.
Long-distance buses
All long-distance national and international buses leave
from Vilnius’ main bus station. Tickets for many journeys
can be bought directly from the driver, although it’s worth
getting one in advance at no extra cost. The ticket office
for national bus services is located inside the waiting room.
Budget travellers might be surprised to learn that bus travel
in Lithuania is more expensive that using the train.
Taxis
Despite recent creeping taxi (taksi) prices, travelling by taxi
in Vilnius remains relatively cheap, especially if you order
one in advance by telephone. In an attempt to stem the
flow of moonlighters, all taxis in Lithuania are now instantly
recognisable by their compulsory yellow number plates,
although this should in no way lure anyone into believing
this has changed the free-market spirit of the average
taksistas (taxi driver). Taxi drivers in Vilnius are no different
to taxi drivers anywhere else, and will in general take any
opportunity to relieve clients of more money than they need
to. The standard rule is to make sure the meter is running
and set to the correct tariff (generally 1 most of the time
and 2 after midnight) before setting off. Arguments with
taxi drivers are futile, and there are several stories floating
around of drunken foreigners being assaulted when arguing
about the fare. Finally, be extremely cautious of hotels
who offer deals with individual taxi companies as they are
usually set at extortionate rates. Prices listed below are for
standard daytime journeys within the city limits.
Company Tel. Rate/km*
Ekipažas (+370) 5 239 55 39 2.20Lt
Romerta Plius (+370) 5 278 88 88 2.29Lt
Standart Taxi (+370) 5 240 00 04 2.30Lt
Vilniaus Taksi (+370) 5 261 61 61 2.29Lt
* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Bus Station (Autobusų Stotis) B-6, Sodų 22, tel.
1661, www.toks.lt. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00, Fri 06:00 -
19:30. JA
Lux Express B-6, Sodų 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 233 66
66, www.luxexpress.eu. Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama).
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. JA
Trains
Vilnius’ main train station (geležinkelio stotis) handles
services to a number of destinations within Lithuania as well
as international trains to Belarus, Poland, Russia and Ukraine.
Most tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the right of
the main entrance. Tickets for international trains can also be
purchased from a small office inside and immediately to the
left of the main entrance. The general rule is that tickets are
stopped being sold 10 minutes before a train is due to depart.
Train Station (Geležinkelio Stotis) B-6, Geležinkelio
16, tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt. J
Car rental
Avis Laisvės 3, tel.
(+370) 5 230 68 20,
www.avis.lt. Mostl y
cars under six months
old, available with or without a driver. Also at Rodūnios
Kelias 2 (Airport).QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 16:00.
Budget Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230
67 08, www.budget.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Rimas Tel. (+370) 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt.
Q Open 24hrs.
Sixt Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239
56 36, www.sixt.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Airport transfer
ViniusTransfer.com Laisvės 60, tel. (+370) 645 451
24, booking@vilniustransfer.com, www.vilniustransfer.
com. Specialists in minibus, bus and car rental with or without
a driver in Lithuania and further afield, plus a wide range of
transfer services including private transfers, large group
transfers and airport taxis. QOpen 24hrs. A
Parking
Street parking in Vilnius is divided into four colour-coded
zones, namely blue, red, yellow and green. Colour-coded
parking meters eat coins and regurgitate a little printed
ticket. Times when payments are required are marked on
blue signs using Roman numerals to represent days, and
numbers to represent times. A sign displaying I-V 8-22
for example means you must pay to park on Monday (I)
to Friday (V) from 08:00 to 22:00. Signs can be hidden
or placed miles away from the parking space in question.
Be careful. A pay-by-SMS system is also in operation,
although in order to use it you must have a local SIM card.
Buy a bar-coded windscreen sticker and register it in order
to use this service if you’re planning on living in the city or
staying for an extended period of time. Keep valuables
hidden at all times, including radios if possible.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
getting around
August - November 2012
69

70 getting around
Train schedule Airport
From Vilnius To Vilnius
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
04:50 06:47 IGNALINA 04:09 05:55
08:31 10:23 IGNALINA 05:15 06:52
11:22 13:15 IGNALINA 06:56 08:18
15:00 16:48 IGNALINA 08:50 10:23
16:431 18:34 IGNALINA 12:28 14:23
18:24 20:08 IGNALINA 15:16 17:11
19:32 20:54 IGNALINA 18:40 20:29
20:49 22:25 IGNALINA 20:10 21:44
04:385 12:01 KALININGRAD 09:558 15:26
10:476 18:17 KALININGRAD 11:489 17:28
13:127 20:23 KALININGRAD 16:3710 22:19
04:251 05:31 KAUNAS 04:523 06:30
04:54 06:37 KAUNAS 05:32 07:20
06:20 07:35 KAUNAS 06:201 07:35
07:27 08:45 KAUNAS 06:57 08:41
08:42 10:26 KAUNAS 08:08 09:23
10:25 11:38 KAUNAS 09:09 10:40
11:15 12:29 KAUNAS 10:52 12:40
11:40 13:23 KAUNAS 12:07 13:22
13:50 15:05 KAUNAS 13:40 15:15
14:45 16:30 KAUNAS 15:22 17:10
16:30 17:34 KAUNAS 17:00 18:15
16:36 18:19 KAUNAS 07:10 19:00
17:27 18:35 KAUNAS 17:54 19:09
17:47 19:16 KAUNAS 18:43 20:29
18:30 20:14 KAUNAS 19:40 20:55
19:40 20:56 KAUNAS 20:15 21:44
20:402 22:11 KAUNAS 21:16 22:34
06:45 11:12 KLAIPĖDA 06:50 11:34
09:41 14:40 KLAIPĖDA 11:50 16:29
17:40 22:17 KLAIPĖDA 17:05 21:54
07:05 10:05 MINSK 05:42 11 10:30
16:55 21:39 MINSK 23:5212 04:21
17:45 9 22:02 MINSK
22:3610 02:56 MINSK
15:4313 11:09 ST. PETERSBURG 18:2214 12:55
19:32 10:25 ST. PETERSBURG 19:40 08:18
06:45 09:17 ŠIAULIAI 08:55 11:34
09:41 12:18 ŠIAULIAI 13:51 16:29
17:40 20:12 ŠIAULIAI 19:11 21:54
04:07 04:49 TRAKAI 05:26 06:09
05:12 05:52 TRAKAI 06:041 06:47
06:05 06:42 TRAKAI 07:15 07:54
07:41 08:21 TRAKAI 08:32 09:13
10:314 11:08 TRAKAI 11:234 12:02
12:30 13:06 TRAKAI 13:21 14:00
13:29 14:05 TRAKAI 14:20 14:59
15:35 16:11 TRAKAI 16:38 17:17
18:15 18:52 TRAKAI 19:26 20:05
20:20 21:04 TRAKAI 21:28 22:11
1 2 3 4 - Mon- Fri, - Mon-Fri, Sun, - Mon- Sat, till 31 08 2012
5 - till 01 09 2012. From 02 09 2012 odd days of the month.
6 - till 01 09 2012. From 03 09 2012 even days of the month.
7 - till 30 08 2012 and 01 09 2012 odd days of the month.
From 02 09 2012 only Thu and Mon. 8 - till 31 08 2012 odd
days of the month. From 01 09 2012 only Tue and Sat. 9 - till
31 08 2012. From 01 09 2012 odd days of the month. 10 - till
31 08 2012. From 02 09 2012 even days of the month. 11 -
till 01 09 2012. From 03 09 2012 even days of the month.
12 - till 01 09 2012. From 02 09 2012 odd days of the month.
13 - till 31 08 2012 odd days of the month. From 01 09 2012
only Tue and Sat. 14 - till 30 08 2012 even days of the month.
From 02 09 2012 only Wed and Sun.
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. More information
at www.litrail.lt. Valid until November 30, 2012.
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus
Oro Uostas) Rodūnios Kelias 10a, tel. (+370) 5
230 66 66, www.vno.lt. Vilnius International Airport, situated
approximately 5km south of the city centre, is small
and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and bar can be found
above the main entrance for fond farewells and devilishly
expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of Duty Free shops
and cafés are located the other side of customs control.
Free wireless internet is available throughout the airport.
To get there by bus (see Public transport for information
on tickets), take Nº2 from Lukiškių Aikštė or Nº1 from the
train station, or use the shuttle train service that departs
from the train station every 30 minutes between 06:30
and 19:30. Buy a ticket on board for just 2Lt. A taxi from
Old Town currently costs around 50Lt using a hotel-booked
firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get
a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company.
By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5
266 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make
the trip for just 18Lt.
Cycling
Lithuania is as flat as a pancake, has relatively little
traffic, a bracing coastline and lots of interesting places
to see and explore making it an attractive destination for
cyclists. Likewise, Vilnius is criss-crossed with cycle paths,
is positively overflowing with parks and wherever you are
in the city you’re never more than a brisk 15-minute pedal
from the countryside. A well established, national nonprofit
organisation exists to help cyclists in many ways.
Baltic Cycle offers everything from maps, cycling tours
and even bicycle rental where you can pick up a machine
in one country and drop it off in another. Political cyclists
International bus schedule
Dep Arr Destination Dep Arr
14:30 1 17:15 COLOGNE 10:15 2 14:50
14:30 3 20:00 STUTTGART 08:00 4 14:50
17:00 5 07:20 ROME 19:00 6 09:50
14:30 7 05:45 LONDON 21:30 8 14:50
06:30 10:50 RIGA 07:00 10:55
12:30 17:00 RIGA 10:35 15:00
16:10 20:25 RIGA 12:30 17:00
18:30 22:25 RIGA 18:15 22:20
10:00 14:30 RIGA 02:55 06:55
14:15 18:15 RIGA 08:30 12:40
22:30 02:30 RIGA 14:45 19:05
07:00 11:25 RIGA 16:00 20:40
16:10 00:50 TALLINN 06:00 15:00
10:00 19:05 TALLINN 10:00 19:05
22:30 06:55 TALLINN 22:30 06:55
14:45 03:15 POzNAń 01:55 15:50
22:30 10:40 POzNAń 18:30 08:45
06:40 10:20 MINSK 14:20 18:00
09:00 12:10 MINSK 16:05 19:45
12:30 16:10 MINSK 19:00 22:30
14:45 22:10 WARSAW 06:05 15:50
22:30 05:40 WARSAW 23:05 08:45
*only 01 06 - 31 08, 1 1 2* 3* 4 5* 6 -, 2 1 - 3* 4 5* 6 7,
3 1 - - 4 - 6 7*, 4 1 2* - 4 - 6 -, 5 - - - 4* - 6 -, 6 1 - - - - 6* -,
7 1 2* 3* 4 5* 6 -, 8 1* 2* 3 4* 5 6* 7
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all services
listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

in Vilnius will be pleased to hear that the city now holds its
very own Critical Mass (Kritinė Masė) on the last Friday of
every month, weather permitting, starting from Cathedral
Square at 18:00 sharp.
VeloCity Tours & Rent C-5,
Aušros Vartų 12, tel. (+370)
674 121 23, info@velovilnius.lt,
www.velo-city.lt. A local organisation
that rents bicycles, organises
city tours by bicycle, provides maps
and information about cycling in
the city, sells used bicycles, runs a
self-repair workshop (15:00 - 19:00)
and bicycle repair shop (both at Kauno 5) and organises free
cycling events. Their free daily bicycle tour and the All Sides
of Vilnius tour both begin at 11:00 at the bicycle rental point
Aušros Vartų 12. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at Kauno 5.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Veloklinika.lt G-4, A. Domaševičiaus 7, tel. (+370) 606
877 54, www.veloklinika.lt. Tucked away in a courtyard
on the small street connecting Kudirkos with Pamėnkalnio,
this highly recommended bicycle repair workshop is staffed
mostly by young gentlemen listening to Bob Marley with the
addition of one older fellow. All maintenance and repair work
is undertaken, all of it to a high standard and for a good
price. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by
appointment only.
Travel agencies
Amber Tours H-4, Pamėnkalnio 34b, tel. (+370) 5
275 69 85, www.ambertours.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Baltic Clipper G-3, Gedimino 64, tel. (+370) 5 231 23
23, www.bc.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center C-4,
Subačiaus 2, tel. 1593, www.bts.lt. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
BPC Travel H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 210
25 90, www.bpctravel.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Kelionių Panorama I-3, Šeimyniškių 21, tel. (+370) 5
261 87 26, www.kelioniupanorama.lt. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Krantas Travel A-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370) 5 231
33 14, www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Flight schedule
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
getting around
Local bus schedule
DRUSKININKAI
07:20, 08:40, 09:35, 10:00, 11:00, 12:10, 13:05, 14:20,
15:40, 16:151 , 17:10, 17:551 , 18:20, 18:40, 20:30.
KAUNAS
05:40, 06:20, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15, 07:30, 07:40, 08:10,
08:20, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 10:05, 10:30, 10:45,
11:00, 11:30, 11:45, 12:10, 12:20, 12:35, 13:00, 13:30,
14:00, 14:35, 15:00, 15:15, 15:30, 16:05, 16:25, 17:00,
17:25, 18:00, 18:15, 18:40, 19:001 , 19:20, 19:45,
21:10.
KLAIPĖDA
06:00, 06:35, 07:00, 07:50, 08:50, 11:35, 11:55, 13:20,
14:50, 16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30.
PALANGA
06:50, 08:50, 11:00, 11:55, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30.
TRAKAI
07:10, 08:202 , 08:55 2 , 09:15, 09:30, 09:45, 10:40, 13:00,
13:30, 14:00, 14:40, 15:20, 16:10, 16:40, 17:00, 17:45,
18:10, 18:454 , 20:00.
1 2 3 4 - Fri, Sun, - Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, - Sun, - Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.
Valid until November 30, 2012.
Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to press
and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. The
website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for
up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus in
Lithuania.
Lithuanian Tours I-2, Šeimyniškių 18, tel. (+370) 5 272
41 54, www.lithuaniantours.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Fri 09:00 - 16:45. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Ryanair Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232
93 77, www.ryanair.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun
15:00 - 21:00.
Senamiesčio Gidas C-5, Aušros Var tų 7, tel.
(+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com.
Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00.
JA
The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind D-3, Užupio 23-9,
tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. JA
Visit Lithuania B-2, L. Stuokos Gucevičiaus 1, tel.
(+370) 5 262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
From Vilnius To Vilnius
Days Dep. Arrival Destination Days Dep. Arrival
1 – – – 5 – – 19:30 21:55 till 26 10 BARCELONA till 26 10 (WZZ) 1 – – – 5 – – 22:30 02:55 (+1)*
– – 3 – – – 7 21:30 00:05 (+1)* till 24 10 BARCELONA till 24 10 (RYR) – – 3 – – – 7 16:30 21:05
– – 3 – – – 7 06:05 07:25 till 24 10 BERGEN till 24 10 (FLESLAND) (WZZ) – – 3 – – – 7 07:55 11:15
– – 3 – – – – 10:00 10:50 15 08 - 24 10 BREMEN 15 08 - 24 10 (RYR) – – 3 – – – – 06:45 09:35
– – – – 5 – – 10:50 11:40 17 08 - 26 10 BREMEN 17 08 - 26 10 (RYR) – – – – 5 – – 07:35 10:25
1 – – – – – – 10:10 11:00 from 20 08 till 22 10 BREMEN 20 08 - 22 10 (RYR) 1 – – – – – – 06:55 09:45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 15:40 BRUSSELS (BRU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 13:30
1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:10 16:40 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 13:10 15:40
– – – – – – 7 15:10 15:40 COPENHAGEN (SAS) – – – – – – 7 12:10 14:40
1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:10 16:40 till 26 10 COPENHAGEN (SK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:55 23:25
– – – – – 6 – 14:15 14:50 COPENHAGEN (SAS) – – – – – 6 – 11:10 13:40
– – – – – – 7 15:10 15:40 till 21 10 COPENHAGEN till 21 10 (SK) – – – – – – 7 12:10 14:40
August - November 2012
71

72 getting around
Flight schedule continued
From Vilnius To Vilnius
1 2 3 4 5 – – 12:40 13:15 20 08 - 26 10 20 08 - 26 10 COPENHAGEN (SK) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 09:35 12:05
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 17:45 19:10 till 02 10 till 26 10 CORK (WZZ) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 19:40 (+1)* 00:50
– 2 – – – 6 – 17:45 19:10 06 10 - 27 10 06 10 - 27 10 CORK (WZZ) – 2 – – – 6 – 19:40 (+1)* 00:50
– 2 – – – 6 – 19:05 19:55 DONCASTER (SHEFIELD) (WZZ) – 2 – – – 6 – 20:25 00:55 (+1)*
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 22:45 23:45 DUBLIN (RYR) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 17:20 22:20
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 23:50 01:10 (+1)* DUBLIN (EIN) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 18:00 23:05
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 06:40 08:00 EINDHOVEN (WZZ) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 14:00 17:10
1 – – – – – – 05:50 07:05 till 22 10 till 21 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – – – – – – 7 10:55 14:00
– 2 3 4 5 – – 06:00 07:15 till 26 10 till 26 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) 1 – 3 4 5 – – 10:50 13:55
– – – – – 6 7 06:00 07:15 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – – – – – 6 – 10:50 13:55
1 – 3 – 5 – – 14:40 15:55 till 26 10 till 23 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – 2 – – – – – 11:05 14:10
– – – 4 – – 7 14:50 16:05 till 25 10 till 25 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – 2 3 4 – – – 22:20 23:25
– – – – – 6 – 14:40 15:55 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) – – – – – 6 – 20:20 23:25
– 2 – – – – – 14:55 16:10 till 23 10 till 26 10 FRANKFURT/MAIN (DLH) 1 – – – 5 – 7 20:30 23:35
1 2 3 4 5 – – 11:45 12:55 till 26 10 till 26 10 HELSINKI (VANTAA) (FIN) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 09:45 11:00
– 2 3 4 5 6 – 18:05 19:20 HELSINKI (VANTAA) (FIN) – 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:15 17:30a
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 10:10 11:25 KARLSRUHE (BADEN BADEN) (RYR) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 06:35 06:35
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 05:35 07:05 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 16:20
– – – – – – 7 07:05 08:35 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:15 00:05 (+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:20 18:50 KYIV (BORISPOL) (AEW)
1 – – – 5 – – 11:15 12:25 till 26 10 till 26 10 LIVERPOOL (WZZ) 1 – – – 5 – – 17:35 12:55
1 – 3 4 5 6 7 06:10 07:00 LONDON (LUTON) (WZZ) 1 – 3 4 5 6 7 07:30 12:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:50 22:30 LONDON (STANSTED) (RYR) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:50 21:25
– – 3 – 5 – – 10:30 12:05 05 09 - 26 10 05 09 - 26 10 MILAN (BERGAMO ORIO AL
SERIO) (RYR)
– – 3 – 5 – – 06:30 10:05
1 – – – – – – 11:00 12:35 till 22 10 till 22 10 MILAN (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO) 1 – – – – – – 07:00 10:35
(RYR)
– 2 – 4 – 6 – 12:55 14:25 MILAN (BERGAMO ORIO AL SERIO) (RYR) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 14:55 18:20
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 05:40 08:05 MOSCOW till 30 08 (SHEREMETYEVO) (AFL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:40 22:15
MOSCOW 31 08 - 09 09 (SHEREMETYEVO) (AFL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:30 23:05
MOSCOW 10 09 - 26 10 (SHEREMETYEVO) (AFL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:40 22:15
1 – – – – – 7 13:30 16:10 till 22 10 MOSCOW till 22 10 (DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) 1 – – – – – 7 12:05 12:40
– – – 4 – – – 18:30 21:10 till 25 10 MOSCOW till 25 10 (DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) – – – 4 – – – 16:55 17:40
– – – – – 6 – 10:20 13:00 MOSCOW (DOMODEDOVO) (TSO) – – – – – 6 – 08:50 09:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 09:00 MOSCOW (VNUKOVO) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:50 22:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 17:55 MOSCOW (VNUKOVO) (UTA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:40 12:40
– – 3 – – – 7 12:55 13:50 till 24 10 OSLO till 24 10 (SANDEJFORD) (WZZ) – – 3 – – – 7 14:20 17:15
1 – – – 5 – – 12:55 14:40 till 26 10 PARIS till 26 10 (BEAUVAIS–TILLE) (WZZ) 1 – – – 5 – – 15:10 18:55
1 – – – 5 – – 13:10 14:50 till 26 10 PARIS till 26 10 (BEAUVAIS–TILLE) (RYR) 1 – – – 5 – – 09:00 12:45
– – 3 – – – – 18:45 20:25 till 24 10 PARIS till 24 10 (BEAUVAIS–TILLE) (RYR) – – 3 – – – – 14:35 18:20
– 2 – 4 – – – 15:00 15:40 till 25 10 PRAGUE till 25 10 (RUZYNE) (CSA) – 2 – 4 – – – 11:35 14:15
1 2 3 4 5 – – 04:55 05:50 till 26 10 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:45 07:40
– – – – – 6 – 05:05 06:00 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:40 11:35
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:30 09:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:20 14:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:05 11:00 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:35 19:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:00 12:55 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:35 00:40 (+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 16:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:45 00:40 (+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:05 21:00 RIGA (BT)
– – – – – 6 – 14:20 16:15 ROME (CIAMPINO) (RYR) – – – – – 6 – 10:00 13:55
– 2 – 4 – – – 14:40 16:32 till 25 10 ROME till 25 10 (CIAMPINO) (RYR) – 2 – 4 – – – 10:20 14:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:00 07:00 TALLINN (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 07:35 09:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 09:25 10:55 TALLINN till 26 10 (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 14:00 15:05
1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:00 17:00 till 26 10 TALLINN till 26 10 (ULEMISTE) (ELL) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 19:50 21:15
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 21:40 23:10 till 26 10 TALLINN till 26 10 (ULEMISTE) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 23:50 00:50 (+1)*
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:40 14:30 VIENNA (AUA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 12:55
1 2 – 4 5 6 – 06:25 06:30 20 09 - 27 10 WARSAW (LOT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:45 14:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 15:15 WARSAW (LOT) – 2 – – 5 6 – 22:35 00:40 (+1)*
Valid until 27 10 2012. *+ 1 arrival next day
Airline codes: WZZ - Wizz Air, SK - Scandinavian Airlines, BT - Air Baltic, SNBA - Brussels Airlines, DLH - Lufthansa,
AEW - Aerosvit Airlines, AFL - Aeroflot, UTA - Utair Aviation, TSO - Transaero, LOT - Polish Airlines, CSA - Czech
Airlines, ELL - Estonian Air, RYR - Ryanair, AUA - Austrian Airlines, FIN - Finnair, EIN – Aerlingus.
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to change during the lifetime of this guide. Airport information is on
p. 70.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Post
Central Post Office (Centrinis Paštas) B-1, Gedimino
7, tel. (+370) 700 554 00, www.post.lt. The
glorious 1969 Soviet design inside the city’s main post office
betrays a recently improved service that’s finally catching up
with the 21st century. A ticket machine has been installed with
instructions in English, making a visit finally something to look
forward to rather than the nightmare it was in the past. Selecting
a ticket in English should send you to a window where
somebody speaks it. Note the extraordinary calendar on the
wall on the right at the back that needs changing by hand
daily. Late night post offices operate in two of the city’s large
shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00 - 22:00,
and Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), open 10:00 - 22:00. QOpen
07:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Laptop login
Wireless W If you’re wireless enabled, you’re ready to go
online. There are many cafés, restaurants, hotels and public
spaces in Vilnius that are a part of a network of paid wireless
internet hotspots. Notable locations include the whole of
Pilies and Gedimino, the city’s tourist information centres and
the airport, of which the latter also has a few areas where
you can connect for free. To use these hotspots, just turn
your wireless on and choose the Zebra network. When you
open your web browser you’ll see a page with instructions
and prices. You can pay via SMS if you’ve got a local SIM
card. Be warned, however, that the Zebra network is neither
cheap nor particularly reliable. Several cafés and hotel lobbies
around town provide free wireless access.
3G Both Bitė (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel (www.omnitel.lt)
provide 3G services for laptop connection to the internet
allegedly wherever you are within Lithuania. What you actually
get is far from perfect, but if you’re prepared for slightly
slower speeds than broadband, your connection dropping
out a few times a day and incompatible software that could
conflict with your operating system then one of these
services might be just for you. With the added convenience
of GPRS backup for obscure locations, both companies
offer a range of prepaid and contract options.
Dialup Assuming you’ve got an RJ-11 plug on the end of
your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you probably
don’t), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option is available for
those who can’t find any other connection. Simply dial tel.
890 15 55 55 from anywhere in the country using your dialup
software of choice leaving the username and password
blank and away you go. Calls are charged at a standard
0.12Lt/min at all times from a private line (this figure may
well be a lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged
directly to whoever’s telephone account you’re using.
Prepaid SIM cards
Card Price
(Lt)
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Local
(Lt/min)
London
(Lt/min)
Top-up
(Lt)
Mail & Phones
Emergency numbers
Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112
Postal rates
Lithuania EU Outside EU
Letter (44g) 1.65Lt 2.95Lt 3.35Lt
Postcard (20g) 1.55Lt 2.45Lt 2.90Lt
CD (130g) 2.50Lt 5.90Lt 11.75Lt
Express mail rates
Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a
maximum of 500g.
London Paris New York
DHL 170Lt 170Lt 240Lt
EMS 215Lt 213Lt 210Lt
TNT 163Lt 181Lt 265Lt
UPS 174Lt 192Lt 279Lt
Mobile phones
Bitė G-5, Žemaitės 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www.
bite.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Omnitel B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. 1533, www.omnitel.lt.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
TELE2 G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 601 102 00,
www.tele2.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Internet cafés
Taškas G-4, J. Jasinskio 1/8 (entrance from V. Kudirkos,
2nd floor), tel. (+370) 685 240 24. Reasonably central,
climb the flight of stairs and fight with the teenagers for a
battered albeit perfectly decent PC. Q Open 24hrs.
Express mail
DHL Dariaus ir Girėno 81, tel. (+370) 5 236 07 00, www.
dhl.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EMS Rodūnios Kelias 9, tel. (+370) 5 239 83 28,
www.post.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. 1
TNT Dariaus ir Girėno 44, tel. (8-800) 252 22, specialservices.vno@tnt.com,
www.tnt.lt. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
UPS E-5, Eigulių 15, tel. (+370) 5 247 22 22, www.skubiossiuntos.lt.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SMS
(Lt)
Voicemail
(Lt/call)
Bitė (Labas) 6 0.49 1.99 5/10/20/40/99 0.11 0.10 99%
Omnitel (Ežys) 5 0.46 2.03 From 5 0.10 Free 99%
TELE2 (Pildyk) 4.50 0.48 1.85 5/7/10/15/20/35/50 0.10 0.15 96%
Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.
Coverage
August - November 2012
73

74 shoPPing
Unless you’re Latvian or Polish, you probably didn’t come
to Vilnius to shop. However, shopping is fun, and, in the
case of certain products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, cigarettes
and amber) a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the
West. The main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided
neatly into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber,
books old and new and some nice pieces of art) and parts
of the city’s classiest street, Gedimino (designer clothes,
mobile phones and more books). The city’s markets are
also well worth a visit for an authentic, blast to the past
experience if nothing else, as indeed are the increasing
number of large shopping centres around the edge of the
city, where among other things you’ll find all the clothing
and footwear shops we’ve chosen not to list here.
Shopping centres
Akropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. A
huge place full of shops and the flocks that visit them. In case
shopping isn’t your thing, you can try ice-skating, bowling, or see
a film. There’s also a good range of restaurants and a constant
cacophonous argument between the cheap car alarms in the
enormous car park. Not very central, find it about 3km north of
the action. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULXW
Europa H-3, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 616 956 80,
www.pceuropa.lt. In the heart of the business district just
north of the river, find three floors of mostly clothes shops
plus a couple of restaurants and a handful of little pods for
drinking coffee in. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
PTALW
Gedimino 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 262 98 12,
www.gedimino9.lt. Located inside a grand 19th-century
building in the heart of the city, this bustling shopping centre
includes a wide range of retail outlets selling everything from
fashion to fish, some great antique stalls, restaurants and
cafés, a gallery and even a place for small business start-ups.
Best of all are the highly recommended Studio 9 restaurant
and the free wireless internet throughout.QOpen 10:00 -
20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAW
IKI Commercial Centre I-2, Žirmūnų 2, tel. (+370) 5
272 19 68, www.iki.lt. This three-floor shopping centre
features a large Iki supermarket at ground level, a handful of
average shops downstairs and up the escalators some fashion
outlets, a shoe shop, a Čili Kaimas restaurant and, at the time
of going to press, a small kiosk selling ready-made sushi. Also
at J. Jasinkio 16. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAUL
Ozas H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 50, www.ozas.lt.
Opened in August 2009, the large Ozas shopping centre offers
more gargantuan shopping and restaurant services to the city.
Find inside a veritable cavalcade of shops selling everything
from designer clothes to food. The large Prisma supermarket
stocks one of the most extensive ranges of alcohol in Vilnius.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAULXW
Panorama G/F-2, Saltoniškių 9, tel. (+370) 5 219
58 11, www.panorama.lt. Loads of retail outlets, entertainment
centres and restaurants close to the centre in
Žvėrynas. Many high street names, a top floor of restaurants,
the country’s first electric go-carting centre and smoking
rooms next to the public toilets. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
PTAULXW
Rimi Hypermarket G-4, Savanorių 16, tel. (+370)
5 246 12 00, www.rimi.lt. Not quite everything under
one roof (they don’t sell roofs for example), but not far
off it. A huge heated expanse offering electrical goods,
clothes, books, tools, toys and household essentials as
well as a fairly extensive collection of local and imported
foodstuffs. Also a few other shops inside the same building.
Also at Žirmūnų 64, Ateities 91. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
AL
VCUP H-3, Konstitucijos 16, tel. (+370) 5 273 15 15,
www.vcup.lt. Once colossal, this former flagship Soviet
shopping sensation looks more like a corner shop than an
experience these days. Limited retail and dining just north of
the river. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULW
Markets
Shopping in a Lithuanian market (turgus), although
perhaps not for the faint hearted, is an experience to
be savoured if at all possible when visiting the country.
Remember that many things can be haggled down in
price, and please watch your wallets, especially during the
weekends.
Akropolio Blusų Turgus G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.
akropolis.lt. Catching on to the latest craze to sweep the
nation, this weekly flea market outside the vast Akropolis
shopping centre features a fairly decent selection of stalls
selling everything from old paintings to Soviet memorabilia.
QOpen Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri,
Sat.
Collectors’ Club (Kolekcininkų Klubas) G-4, V.
M. Putino 5. What started out as a small gathering of
like-minded aficionados trading miscellaneous antiquities
in exchange for a bit of pocket money has slowly evolved
into a serious weekly event. Stretched out round two full
sides of the Trade Union Palace as well as inside, items
up for grabs include everything from Czechoslovakian
clarinets to furniture to WWII-era Nazi propaganda posters
in Lithuanian. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

The biggest shopping
centre in Baltics!
AKROPOLIS offers You the best shopping experience in Vilnius: over 240 stores
with world known brands, 14 restaurants, a cinema, an ice rink, a bowling alley
and a children´s playground. Open daily 10:00 – 22:00.
Tax free service at most of the shops.
VILNIUS
OZO STR. 25, WWW.AKROPOLIS.LT

76 shoPPing
Halės Market (Halės Turgus) C-5, Pylimo 58/1, tel.
(+370) 5 262 55 36, www.halesturgaviete.lt. The modern,
glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing that went
out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and raw meat at the
back is perhaps best worth avoiding, whereas the beautifully
restored brick building dating from 1900 to the right is more
than worth a look inside. A trip through the doors rewards
visitors with a nasal blast of several tonnes of smoked meat,
which can be bought in here along with a few other specialities
including fresh fruit and vegetables plus a nice range of locallyproduced
honey you can taste before you purchase. QOpen
07:00 - 17:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J
Kalvarijų Market (Kalvarijų Turgus) H-2, Kalvarijų
61, tel. (+370) 696 357 18. Featuring everything from old
ladies selling garlic bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional
bargain goat (cash only), one of the city’s most endangered
species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a
taste of what the rest of the country’s really like. One of the
best places in town for meat, locally-produced honey and
cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also find tropical fish,
manbags, Minsk bicycles and cheap cigarettes from the
Roma girls near the main entrance. QOpen 07:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon.
Sostinės Turgus H-2, Kalvarijų 88, tel. (+370) 613
252 50. Opened towards the end of 2010, presumably as
a way of threatening the nearby and highly recommended
Kalvarijų Market who many in power would like to see closed,
this dreadful indoor market would be an embarrassment in a
poverty-stricken Siberian village. Totally low budget, expect
a hopeless selection of awful clothing and not a lot more.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Souvenir Market (Suvenyrų Turgus) C-2/3, Pilies
23. The only market we list aimed exclusively at foreigners’
wallets is a predominantly lacklustre hotchpotch of stalls
selling amber, linen, wood carvings, hand-knitted socks,
Soviet-era bits and pieces and a few paintings. Some pieces
are really nice, but most of the stuff here is very average.
Every tourist destination has one. This is Vilnius’. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. J
Tymo Turgus D-4, Aukštaičių/Maironio, tel. (+370)
612 289 26. Labouring under the unofficial moniker The
Little Good Food & Culture Festival, this once-a-week jaunt
into the world of possible alternatives churns out all manner
of environmentally friendly food from local farmers and well as
soaps, cosmetics and the like. Politically edgy in the fluffiest
sense, the market also hosts a regular event where people
can vent their spleens a la Hyde Park Corner, plus there’s a
place to go for free second-hand clothing and the occasional
musical performance. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.
Verslo Parkas Gariūnai 4km from Vilnius just off the
Kaunas highway, www.gariunai.lt. Covering a vast area of
120 hectares (there are some who say it’s the largest outdoor
market in Europe) and attracting an average 50,000 shoppers
every day, Gariūnai sells cars on one side of the road plus all
manner of cheap consumer goods of dubious quality on a truly
expansive scale on the other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs
around 30Lt to get there from the city centre. Alternatively,
look for the minibuses around the train and bus stations with
Gariūnai signs on the front. QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu
04:00 - 14:00, Sat 05:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Amber
According to local legend, amber (gintaras) originates
from the tears of the sea goddess Jūratė and the stones
from her castle, which was destroyed by Perkūnas, the
pagan god of thunder, when he discovered her passionate
love affair with the mortal fisherman Kastytis. Scientists,
not generally being of the pagan faith, think different.
Some 40 million years ago or thereabouts the earth got
warmer, causing an increase in the secretion of resin in
the pine forests in the region. The streams of resin swept
down rivers and into the Baltic Sea, sometimes sweeping
up a stray bug along the way. It’s this fossilised resin that
now sits in deltaic deposits off the coasts of Kaliningrad,
Lithuania, Poland and Sweden. Ask most people and
they’ll tell you amber is a dark honey colour. However, visit
anywhere selling the stuff and you’ll soon see it comes
in such diverse colours as blue, black, white and yellow.
White amber is called royal amber and is widely available
in Lithuania. Blue and black amber are more rare here.
Amber C-5, Aušros Vartų 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 88,
www.ambergift.lt. An astounding Aladdin’s cave of amber.
The walls and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of the
stuff while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures
and more. Worth visiting even if you’re not interested in
shopping. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00 (until Sept 30). Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun (from Oct 1). JA
Amber Museum-Gallery C-3, Šv. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370)
5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. A great little place
apt at displaying amber at its best. The knowledgeable and
friendly staff speak English, and can waffle on for hours about
the stuff if you want to know all about it. Also at Šv. Mykolo
12. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA
Beata Amber C-3/4, Stiklių 9/10, tel. (+370) 5 234 46
85, www.beataamber.lt. As much a wholesaler as retailer,
you can pick up amber at a variety of stages of production
here. There are hunks of raw amber, various polished beads
and blobs that you can use to make your own jewellery and
fine finished creations. Also at M. K. Čiurlionio 84 (Crowne Plaza
Vilnius), Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva). Q Open
10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Antiques
Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old,
some degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be
required to get antiques out of the country. A reputable
antiques salesperson will assist you with this. If they can’t,
you might like to think again about making the purchase.
e.k.art C-4, Didžioji 27, tel. (+370) 605 222 22, info@
ek-art.lt, www.ek-art.lt. An incredible collection of paintings,
furniture, religious objects and other works of art from
Lithuania, Russia, Germany and beyond established over two
decades ago and one of the most reliable places in town to
buy antiques. An excellent place to know about for all serious
collectors, the shop now also stocks a range of antique
Persian carpets. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Fabra Ars C-4, Didžioji 20, tel. (+370) 652 815 58. Classic
and original artworks, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Mostly of interest to collectors and dealers. QOpen 11:00 -
19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Senasis Kuparas B-3, Dominikonų 14, tel. (+370) 5
262 10 24. An excellent shop full of beautiful and highly
sought-after pieces adjoining a shop selling some quite exquisite
glassware. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Vilnius Antiques Centre C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel.
(+370) 5 262 74 79, www.antiques.lt. A wide selection
of paintings, icons, furniture, silverwear and other curiosities.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
shoPPing
Books etc.
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition
to the following bookshops, reading matter can be found
at various libraries listed in our Directory. International
press is best found in the city’s better hotels, of which
some offer a pre-ordering service for newspapers and
magazines they don’t usually stock.
Akademinė Knyga C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5
266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. A wide range of works for
lexicographers, plus the usual dictionaries, reference books and
paperback novels. One of the better places in town for foreign
literature, which you’ll find in the back room downstairs. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun (Sept - June). Open
10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun (July and August). JA
Didysis Pegasas G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5
238 77 52, www.pegasas.lt. A bit of a way to go but the trip’s
usually worth it. Upstairs is a selection of paperbacks in English
that vary in quantity from a handful to over 1,000. To the left as
you enter is a good selection of titles on art, photography etc. To
the right find guidebooks aplenty. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Draugystė B-2, Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 5 268 50
80, www.vaga.lt. This former largish bookshop recently
removed half its stock and replaced it with a café operated
by the best café chain in the country. The English-language
novels can still be counted on one hand, but now there’s a
reason to visit. Also find a decent selection of books about
Lithuania in English. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Fri 07:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. JA
French Bookshop Pegasas C-3, Didžioji 1, tel. (+370)
5 262 05 17, www.pegasas.eu. Adjoining the French Cultural
Centre, if they don’t stock it they will happily order. You can
also subscribe to French-language magazines here. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
August - November 2012
77

80 shoPPing
Humanitas B-3, Dominikonų 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53,
www.humanitas.lt. Glossy books about art, architecture,
interior design, shoes and Jamie Oliver. Also travel guides
and atlases. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Mint Vinetu B-3, Šv. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370) 618
203 47, www.mintvinetu.com. Hooray for the lovely people
who opened this very welcome second-hand bookshop
with small attached café in Old Town. The choice of books,
including titles in English, may be small but it’s the best
anybody’s managed to do so far. Recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00. JAW
Rūdninkų Knygynas B-5, Rūdninkų 20, tel. (+370) 5
261 02 66, www.rudninkuknygynas.lt. A rather cute little
shop on the very edge of Old Town, as well as a good selection
of a fine range of English language magazines on the subject
of design, photography etc. find 12inch records from home
and abroad. Also available are a few eco and handmade
souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. JA
Vaga G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 92,
www.vaga.lt. An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few
English books upstairs. Also at Konstitucijos 7a, Gedimino 9.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Sūrininkų Namai
About six years ago two people called Valdas and Rasa
started making cheese from cows’ and goats’ milk on
a small farm in the village of Dargužiai some 50km
southwest of Vilnius. What started out as a classic
cottage industry caught the imagination of three other
couples and has since ballooned into a thriving business
producing 20 different cheeses made to traditional
Lithuanian and French recipes (Valdas originally
learnt his skills in France) from a total of 10 cows, 20
goats and 20 sheep. Collectively known as Sūrininkų
Namai, which roughly translates as The Home of
Cheese, the organisation runs a small cheese shop
and café in Dargužiai and, along with a local baker and
chocolate-maker, sets up shop for a loyal fan base of
eaters (they avoid using the word consumers) in Vilnius’
Mano Guru restaurant (pictured, see p.41) every Sunday
between 10:00 and 13:00. Dedicated to reviving Lithuania’s
small-scale farming community, these people
really know how to make good cheese. Newcomers to
the Sunday event are welcome for spontaneous tasting
sessions. Alternatively, cheese can be ordered in
advance. See their website at www.surininkunamai.lt
for more information.
Flowers & Plants
Flower Market (Gėlių Turgus) G-4, J. Basanavičiaus
42. Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at
Reformatų, which was a firewood market before that and
even further back served as a cemetery for the church
across the street. After the erection of the 1983 Monument
to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the market was moved
to its current location. Q Open 24hrs.
Gėlės ir Manufaktūra B-5, Rūdninkų 11/11,
tel. (+370) 5 261 51 61, www.sododizainas.lt. A
good selection of flowers and plants for the home and/
or special occasions. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Computers
iDeal Solution B-4, Vokiečių 5, tel. (+370) 5 240 54
26, www.idealsolution.lt. The best place in town for Apple
products, from laptops to iPods. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
The Notebook Shop I-1, S. Žukausko 17, tel. (+370)
5 274 15 28, www.nshop.lt. A fine selection of PC laptops
plus spare parts, peripheries, service and software. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Department stores
Marks & Spencer A-1, Gedimino 20/1, tel. (+370) 5
266 00 88, www.marks-and-spencer.lt. The wonderful M&S
recently upped sticks and moved across the road to a new, bigger
address. Expect the same brands of clothing for all plus the usual
highly recommended food outlet. The new peanut butter in stock
is particularly good, plus there’s all sorts of goodies including
bitter lemon, sweet pickle and other classic goods from the UK.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Food department
open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PJAU
Fashion
Vilniaus Kailiai G-1, Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5
238 77 91, www.kailiai.lt. Lithuania’s largest natural fur
and leather garment manufacturers produce a wide range of
clothing from classic fur coats to accessories. Their retail outlet
in Akropolis is the place to head for the fashion conscious
as well as those who plan on spending the winter here. Also
at Paupio 28. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Food & Drink
AJ Šokoladas C-2, Pilies 8, tel. (+370) 655 955 55,
www.ajsokoladas.lt. Delicious chocolates made daily in
Trakai and delivered fresh. Sold by the gramme, so you can be
as picky as you like. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Gedimino
46. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTJA
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Austrian Gourmet & Bistro H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5
269 72 81. A combined shop and small restaurant specialising
in Austrian cuisine including chocolates, Mozartkugel,
sparkling wine and schnapps. Visitors to the restaurant can
enjoy a decent cup of coffee with an authentic slice of apple
strudel, or even indulge in a classic Viennese schnitzel with
potato salad. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. VNS
Biosala B-4, Vokiečių 13, tel. (+370) 686 262 52. A
good selection of mostly organic food in tins and packets
plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing powder
etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you enter. Also
at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA
Didžioji Krautuvė I-1, Verkių 29-22, tel. (+370) 612
956 13, www.vilniausalus.lt. Over 20 different types of
live Lithuanian beer from the good people at the Vilniaus Alus
brewery plus a range of Lithuanian, German and Latvian beer
in bottles. As well as being an ordinary shop, there’s also a
window for buying without having to get out of your car. Also
a range of snacks and smoked fish. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Eastanbul H-3, Kalvarijų 24a (Ibrahim), tel. (+370) 5
273 17 38, www.ibrahim.lt. This predominantly Turkish
food shop is the only thing of its kind in the city. Find the
shelves bulging with an ever-increasing collection of things to
eat including hummus, chalva (halva), several kinds of ajvar,
Turkish yoghurt, herbs and spices, the fabulous rarity that’s
haloumi and much more besides. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A
Gourmet Delicafe C-3, Didžioji 8, tel. (+370) 5 264
38 48. Hitching a ride of the coattails of the latest trend,
find a small shop selling an admirable choice of food from
Italy including pasta, meat, pesto, olive oil, coffee etc.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
20:00. JAW
Gyvo Alaus Krautuvėlė H-3, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP),
tel. (+370) 652 164 54, www.gyvasalus.lt. A small but
highly recommended selection of traditional Lithuanian live
beers for sale, among them the delicious Butautų Dvaro Alus,
available in both light (šviesus) and dark (tamsus) varieties.
Find it on the floor at ground level close to the coffee shop.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
IKI G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 40, www.
iki.lt. Lithuania’s first supermarket chain, and still sticking
to their core values of quality and freshness. Notable for
having top-notch in-house bakeries in the bigger stores.
Also at Žirmūnų 2, Sodų 22, Architektų 43/31. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00. AL
Iki Express D-3, Užupio 7/1, tel. (+370) 5 260 84 88,
www.iki.lt. Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with
edible treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked
goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of groceries.
Also at Pylimo 21, Vokiečių 13. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00,
Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. JA
Mamma Mia! C-4, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 653 800 85,
www.dovanukrepsys.lt. A highly recommended new deli
in the heart of Old Town selling a superb range of food and
drink, mostly from small producers in Italy, Spain, Portugal,
Belgium and Germany. As well as a shopping space there’s
also a small café inside, where coffee and other drinks are
served alongside the aforementioned wonderful food. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JAVSW
Rūta A-1, A. Jakšto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 68,
www.ruta.lt. Established in Šiauliai in 1913 and still
based in the city, support your local confectioner and buy
some of their treats as a gift or for the simple pleasure
of stuffing them in your face. Everything from chocolate
bars to caramel to truffles. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis) and
Klaipėdos 1. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
shoPPing
Senamiesčio Krautuvė C-3, Literatų 5, tel. (+370)
5 231 28 36. An interesting idea that takes the old-fashioned
deli idea of fresh products laid out in baskets sold
by friendly, rosy-cheeked people and transforms it into a
total Lithuanian experience. All the food for sale is local,
including fruit, vegetables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes
and drinks. During the summer months the shop turns into
a bit of a café, with chairs and tables in the street. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Skonio Studija A-3, J. Basanavičiaus 18, tel. (+370)
5 243 62 26. This glorious shop mostly sells spices including,
rather annoyingly, some but not all of the basic spices
required to make Indian food. The best thing about it however
are the little corners hiding such treats as chilli noodles,
Dutch peanut butter and a range of Chinese and Japanese
sauces. Also a small range of rice cookers and a few quality
kitchen knives. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
JA
Šturmų Švyturio Žuvys D-3, Užupio 9, tel. (+370)
641 535 67, www.sturmuzuvys.lt. A small fishmongers
selling a range of fish they catch and smoke themselves
from the Curonian Lagoon and Baltic Sea. We haven’t
tried it yet, but we will. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Sveiki Produktai H-3, A. Jakšto 9, tel. (+370) 659
441 44, www.sveikiproduktai.lt. A fine selection of
mostly food products, including a range of goods from
the UK-based Infinity Foods. Among the selection are
Fair Trade organic basmati rice, organic peanut butter
and large tins of ghee. Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama),
Ozo 18 (Ozas), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Žirmūnų 64 (Rimi Hypermarket),
Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ukmergės 264 (BIG).
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
August - November 2012
81

82 shoPPing
Užupio Krautuvė I-4, Užupio 23, tel. (+370) 686 793
50, www.uzupiokrautuve.lt. An early contender for the prize
title in the city’s delicatessen sweepstakes, the lovely Užupio
Krautuvė offers a fine selection of Mediterranean gourmet
food including olive oil, meat, cheese, a small selection of
wine, foie gras and other welcome treats. QOpen 11:00 -
20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Gifts & Souvenirs
Aukso Avis C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 261 04 21.
Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian
culture through a modern context. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Aušros Vartų Meno Galerija C-5, Aušros Vartų 12,
tel. (+370) 699 099 51. One of the better gift and souvenir
shops in an area dripping in mediocre ones, find a small
selection of locally-produced folk arts and crafts including
some really lovely paper cuttings, intricate lacework, paintings
and more besides. As if this wasn’t enough, the bright
sparks who run the place also offer light refreshments and
ice-cream complete with summer outdoor seating. Magic.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JA
Gintraka C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 612 405 01, www.
ambershop.lt. Amber, trinkets, knick-knacks, souvenirs and a
delightful array of miscellaneous bits and bobs. Also at Aušros
Vartų 13, Aušros Vartų 4, Pilies 23, Pilies 30, Pilies 9, Ozo 25
(Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA
Linen & Amber Studio C-4, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5
261 02 13, www.lgstudija.lt. One of the best places to
buy linen and amber. They have a great selection, and the
girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didžioji 10,
Didžioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 10. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. JA
Lino Namai C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22, www.
siulas.lt. Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for
just about any part of the body or home. One of the city’s top
shops. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. QOpen 10:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Mano Lietuviški Namai G-5, Ševčenkos 16, tel.
(+370) 699 321 35, www.manolietuviskinamai.lt.
Started by two female interior designers, this fine shop
specialises in gathering the most interesting work from local
craftspeople working in ceramics, metal, textiles and general
interior design. As well as selling items for interiors, they also
provide a full interior design and decorating service. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Sauluva C-3, Pilies 21/12, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 30,
www.sauluva.lt. A great choice for souvenir and holiday
shopping featuring a very respectable collection of amber jewellery
plus Lithuanian made handicrafts mostly made of wood
and glass. Also at Literatų 3. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J
House & Garden
Senukai Ukmergės 244, tel. (+370) 5 252 52 55, www.
senukai.lt. A huge shopping centre with building materials,
electrical equipment, miscellaneous household essentials, some
basic office furniture, garden centre and outdoor furniture. QOpen
08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A
Jewellery
Jūratės Akmenėliai A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 262
02 79, www.juratesakmeneliai.lt. Why just buy jewellery
when you can make your own? The concept here is all about
importing a glittering array of beads and stuff from all over
the world and allowing you to string them together to make
whatever you please. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Yurga B-3, Trakų 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56, www.
yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes from
nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and silver. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Lithuanian couture
Julia Janus C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 619 640 20, www.
juliajanus.com. Surplus to the Lithuanian designer Julija’s
haute couture is a range of off-the-peg clothing for women of
all shapes and sizes available at reasonable prices. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Julija Fashion House C-3, Stiklių 7, tel. (+370) 618
059 09, www.julija.lt. Applying a soft touch with stunning
effect, Julija is the sort of designer who’d like to get to know you
before you get dressed. Not only can she design your personal
wardrobe, but your whole house too. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Lino Kopos H-3, Krokuvos 6, tel. (+370) 5 275 12 00,
www.linokopos.lt. The name means linen dunes, which
sounds like a laundry nightmare, but is actually a fair reflection
of the range and beauty of creations made exclusively
from this versatile natural fibre. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Ramunės Piekautaitės Mados Namai C-4, Didžioji
20, tel. (+370) 5 231 22 70, www.ramunepiekautaite.
com. Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of
daring and/or fruity nonsense and press the puree button. Or
just pop along here to see the results, courtesy of another internationally
successful local designer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA
Zoraza C-3, Stiklių 9, tel. (+370) 687 517 31, www.
zoraza.com. Bags, boots, shoes, furry things, shiny things,
florid frocks, and a glitzy upholstered toilet. The only thing
we can find in common among all the creations tucked away
in this bristling boutique, other than the fact that they’ve
tumbled from the presumably chaotic cognitions of designer
Daiva Urbonavičiūtė, is a certain wacky weirdness. Not for the
straight-laced. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA
Photography
Fototechnika G-5, Smolensko 10a, tel. (+370) 5 279
15 45, www.fototechnika.lt. Although this is arguably the
best photography shop in Vilnius if not the country, don’t go
getting too excited. Although they stock an impressive range
(for local standards) of cameras, accessories, film stock,
lighting, paper and chemicals alongside such hard-to-find
things as cable releases, the selection remains rather small.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Vilbra Foto G-5, Švitrigailos 11b, tel. (+370) 5 239 41
30, www.vilbrafoto.lt. The best choice of dSLRs and digital
compact cameras for the serious enthusiast in the city. Also,
tripods, flashguns, lenses etc. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Vilniaus Antikvaro Centras Fotoprekių Skyrius
C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 64 76. Tucked
away to the right of the main antiques shop is a man behind
a desk selling a beautiful selection of old film cameras and
other related equipment include Leicas and some Soviet
classics. Worth a peep at least. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Recorded music
IMuzika H-3, A. Jakšto 24/3, tel. (+370) 615 940 01,
www.imuzika.lt. Lithuania’s biggest label and one hip shop
presenting jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music.
Orders accepted. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Ragainė C-2, Pilies 6, tel. (+370) 688 196 55, info@
ragaine.org, www.ragaine.org. Barely recognisable at the
bottom of a small flight of steps, this tiny shop specialises
in darkish-leaning underground music from the Baltic States
as well as a few other more recognisable CDs from around
the world. Also for sale is a range of pre-Christian-style ethnic
jewellery, badges, black ceramics, t-shirts and more. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Rūdninkų Knygynas B-5, Rūdninkų 20, tel. (+370)
5 261 02 66, info@rudninkuknygynas.lt, http://shop.
rudninkuknygynas.lt. A rather cute little shop on the very
edge of Old Town, as well as a good selection of 12inch records
from home and abroad find a fine range of English language
magazines on the subject of design, photography etc. Also
available are a few eco and handmade souvenirs. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Thelonious C-3, Stiklių 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 76,
www.thelonious.lt. A superb choice of second-hand CDs
and vinyl, mostly jazz but also a few other gems you won’t
find in a mainstream music shop. They also sell a range of
old-fashioned hi-fi equipment for those who don’t know their
iPods from their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious
now organise the occasional jazz concert. See the website for
more information. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. J
Speciality shops
Bitinėlis B-6, Šopeno 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233 05 70,
www.bitinelis.lt. A glorious little shop selling a range of
locally-produced honey plus everything you ever needed to
start producing the stuff yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Boutique of Various Things (Visokių Daiktų
Krautuvėlė) D-3, Užupio 20, tel. (+370) 5 210 52 17,
www.vdk.lt. A delightfully Užupisesque experience, this
smart little shop accessed via a door down an alleyway
specialises in miniature steam engines, musical boxes,
animated tin toys, other fun things and a whole range of
niche perfumes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Daiktų Viešbutis G-5, Ševčenkos 16a, tel. (+370)
686 497 43, www.daiktuviesbutis.lt. Located in an area
rapidly making a name for itself as the place to come for
expensive designer bits and pieces for the home, Daiktų
Viešbutis (Hotel of Things) is packed with goodies, from
clothing to impossible-looking cardboard tables to the latest
swanky offerings from the Lomo people. Q Open 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat (June - August).Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. A
De’ Žavu C-4, Savičiaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 15 56. A
small and rather natty boutique selling vintage clothing and
accessories as well as a small range of new fashion. Find everything
from old wedding dresses and sunglasses to shoes to
ties to mirrors. Also at Šv. Ignoto 3/1. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. JA
Komisas G-4, V. Kudirkos 1/7, tel. (+370) 684 831 54.
Second-hand clothes, furniture, televisions, hi-fi equipment
and more. An excellent little place to rummage around, they
also buy stuff as well as sell it. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Ona C-4, Šv. Kazimiero 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 63,
www.ona.lt. A multitude of things for the home, paintings,
photographs, jewellery, paper cuts and a host of other
similar articles, all made by small-scale artists, designers
and producers in Lithuania. Promoting ecologically-friendly
products and worthy of much over-needed applause, if that
isn’t enough you can buy everything online and three per cent
of the money you spend goes to a charity of your choice.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Lietuvos Kvapas
shoPPing
Visitors to Lithuania looking for a unique gift or souvenir
look no further! For just 99Lt it’s now possible to buy a
scent that, according to its Lithuanian creators, not only
impersonates the fragrances of the country but that
also recreates the history of its towns and villages, its
nature, traditions, heritage and the achievements of its
people. We kid you not. Called Lietuvos Kvapas (Scent of
Lithuania), the three-note perfume features a cavalcade
of odours including bergamot, ginger, lily of the valley,
amber and patchouli and was developed by the French
perfumier Galimard to be used as an air freshener rather
than a body perfume. The American political satirist
Stephen Colbert recently picked up the scent of the
story, describing Lietuvos Kvapas as smelling of a goat
slaughtered at a lesbian drum circle. The good news is
that it doesn’t smell that bad at all, although we’re still
struggling to get the connection between Lithuania and
patchouli. Lietuvos Kvapas, which is now also available
in scented candle form, is available in several souvenir
shops in Old Town, the Tourist Information Centre,
Kaunas Airport and online from the dedicated website
at www.lietuvoskvapas.lt.
Sport & Recreation
Dviratis Tau G-4, Švitrigailos 5, tel. (+370) 5 265 12
59, www.dviratistau.lt. A well established national chain of
shops selling quality bicycles of all types plus spares. Makers
include Focus, Kalkhoff, Specialized and Wheeler. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Golf City G-4, Savanorių 1 (Helios City, 2nd floor),
tel. (+370) 615 161 61, www.golfcity.lt. There are two
golf clubs in the Vilnius area (see www.capitals.lt and www.
golfclub.lt for more) and this is the shop that serves them.
Everything from clubs to tees to those ridiculous patterned
trousers golfers love to wear. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Laisvės Turas Laisvės 123, tel. (+370) 5 273 67 11,
www.laisvesturas.lt. For lovers of the outdoor life, find
everything from tents and camping gear in general to sports
clothing to canoes and even barbecue equipment. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
Prosport Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 682 437 13, www.
prosport.lt. Trainers, footballs, rugby balls, golf clubs,
racquets, skis, swimming costumes and much much more.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Sportas ir Mada B-4, Pylimo 36, tel. (+370) 5 262 41
27, www.expedition.lt. A good selection of sports equipment
and a limited range of clothing. Excellent location right
on the edge of Old Town. Also at Šeimyniškių 5a. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
August - November 2012
83

84 liFestyle direCtory
Barbers & Beauty
Beauty Institute B-3, Vokiečių 28/17, tel. (+370) 5
262 91 87, www.sugihara.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Figaro B-4, Vokiečių 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 12,
www.figaro.lt. Chopping locks here there and everywhere.
Also at Gedimino 9, Gedimino 54, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa),
Jogailos 4. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. JA
Franko C-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370)
5 262 00 82/(+370) 670 225 54,
frankosalonas@gmail.com. Get a
sprucing-up in this recommended
salon right on Pilies. The bright-eyed,
English-speaking staff will make
your hair swell with style.QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00,
Closed Sun. JA
Gatineau B-2, Totorių 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 64,
www.haircut.lt. A very pleasant hairdressing, manicure,
pedicure, make-up, massage, cosmetology salon with early
hours and smiling English- and Italian-speaking staff. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Cable television
The companies listed below provide cable television services
to different parts of the city. Ask your landlord/lady
or a local friend about which one is available in your area.
They also all provide broadband internet.
C Gates F-5, S. Konarskio 49, tel. (+370) 5 210 75
75, www.cgates.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. J
Vinita S. Stanevičiaus 21a, tel. (+370) 5 230 13 01,
www.vinita.lt. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:00 -
19:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cleaning services
DD Projects Laisvės 77-323, tel. (+370) 683 461 41.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 24hrs.
Computer repair
Matrix G-5, Vytenio 10, tel. (+370) 5 213 45 74, www.
matrix.lt. Hard drive recovery et al. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Currency exchange
Citadele B-6, Geležinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 5 213 54
54, www.keitykla.lt. Capable of changing just about any
convertible currency as well as all Baltic denominations and
Belarusian roubles. Q Open 24hrs.
Dress hire
Kino Studija I-1, Kareivių 6, tel. (+370) 656 688 28,
www.lfs.lt. These people can rent you anything they have in
stock from their wide range of silly costumes. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Dry cleaners & Launderettes
Joglė G-3, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Goštauto),
tel. (+370) 5 264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. The full range of dry
cleaning and laundry services. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima),
Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Skalbiu Sau Saulėtekio 41, tel. (+370) 5 269 60 98,
www.skalbiusau.lt. A good old-fashioned launderette that
can also pick up and drop off your laundry if you can’t be
bothered to do it yourself. Also at Šeškinės 26, Savanorių 176,
Liepkalnio 112. QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
LGBT
The websites at www.gayline.lt and www.gay.lt have
information about gay and lesbian organisations, events
and accommodation in Lithuania, plus community news,
chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania remains stuck
in the Stone Age concerning its attitude towards gay and
lesbians, including in the capital. Be very, very careful.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Genealogy
Information Bureau Tel. (+370) 699 599 88, www.
lithuaniavisits.com. Former journalist and six times European
Ham Radio Operator champion, Vilius Vaseikis provides
a unique and fascinating service arranging tours of Lithuania
for people of Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from helping
to locate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is
also the man to speak to if you’re thinking of relocating to
Lithuania or are simply looking to rent an apartment.
Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (Istorijos
Archyvo Skyrius) G-3, K. Kalinausko 21, tel. (+370)
5 233 78 46, www.archyvai.lt. The entire Lithuanian civil
registry archives from 1940 to the present day, including
records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to use this
service, location and approximate date are essential. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos Centrinis
Valstybės Archyvas) O. Milašiaus 21, tel. (+370) 5 247
78 11, www.archyvai.lt/lt/lcva.html. When the Nazis invaded
Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to prepare an extensive
set of records of everyone living in the country, proving that every
cloud, no matter how dark and evil it is, does indeed have a silver
lining. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the
period of 1941-1942 should consult this archive. QOpen 08:00
- 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos
Valstybės Istorijos Archyvas) F-6, Gerosios Vilties
10, tel. (+370) 5 213 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. The same
as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), only
these archives are from the church registry up until 1940.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Registry (Gyventojų Registro Tarnyba) G-4, Vivulskio
4a, tel. (+370) 5 271 77 88, www.gyvreg.lt. If you
have a name and need an address these people will help
you locate the person in question (the addition of a town
helps speed things up no end), although non-Lithuanians be
warned that if the person in question is located they are first
asked if they actually want to be ‘found’ before the address
is given. The sensible thing for non-nationals to do is to use
this service with a Lithuanian intermediary. QOpen 07:30 -
16:30, Fri 07:30 - 15:15. Closed Sat, Sun.
International schools
American International School of Vilnius I-5,
Subačiaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 31, www.aisv.lt.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
French International School J-2, Šilo 13, tel. (+370)
5 276 91 32, www.efv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Saulės Gojus Šumsko plentas 86, Grigaičiai, tel.
(+370) 5 248 59 88, www.saulesgojus.lt. A good few
kilometres east of the city, this recommended kindergarden
provides care and pre-school education to boys and girls from
three upwards in either Lithuanian/English or Lithuanian/German.
Reports from parents say that the standard of care is
Special interest groups
International Women’s Association K. Borutos
26-58, tel. (+370) 685 212 43, iwavilnius@gmail.
com, www.iwavilnius.com. Vilnius’ long established
International Women’s Association welcomes women
from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian
capital. As well as organising such traditional social
events as coffee mornings, the IWA runs a playgroup and
is involved in a number of charitable activities.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
liFestyle direCtory
exceptionally high and that the country setting is delightful.
A bus ferries everyone from the city and back again. They’ve
also now opened an accompanying primary school. QOpen
07:30 - 19:00, Fri 07:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Vilnius International School C/D-3, Rusų 3, tel.
(+370) 5 276 15 64, www.vischool.lt. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Vilnius Montessori pre-School Naujakurių 29, tel.
(+370) 5 270 08 80, www.vms.lt. Enrolment is throughout
the year. Places are limited. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Key cut
Raktinė D-2, B. Radvilaitės 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 65 65,
www.raktine.lt. Also at Pylimo 49. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Raktų Centras B-5, Pylimo 37, tel. (+370) 5 260 88
22. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
24hrs emergency. J
Language courses
Lingua Lituanica A-1, Gedimino
26, tel. (+370) 5 231
32 39, www.lingualit.lt. Learn
Lithuanian with courses of varying
length suitable for everyone from short-term visitors
to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week summer
and winter courses are also available and include plenty
of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are competitive
compared to courses offered by the universities.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
August - November 2012
85

86 liFestyle direCtory
Jaunimo Perspektyva A-2, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370)
687 494 22, www.ltmrs.lt/jp. Various levels of Lithuanian
language instruction on an individual or group basis. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. J
Libraries
CAC Reading Room (ŠMC Skaitykla) C-4, Vokiečių
2 (Contemporary Art Centre), tel. (+370) 5 260 89 60,
www.cac.lt. Archives of information on contemporary art.
Dynamic library with an extensive collection of exhibitions
catalogues, theoretical books, periodicals, videotapes and
CDs. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Martynas Mažvydas Lithuanian National Library
(Lietuvos Nacionalinė Martyno Mažvydo Biblioteka)
G-3, Gedimino 51 (Entrance from A. Tumėno),
tel. (+370) 5 249 70 28, www.lnb.lt. QOpen 10:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun (July - August).
Photographic services
Kodak ProCentras G-4, Savanorių 22, tel. (+370) 5 213
27 52, www.procentras.lt. The only truly pro shop in town
can provide index prints and rush all manner of film formats
through in an hour if you ask them nicely, although the usual
turnaround is more usually a day. Transparency films get done
in batches, and rather annoyingly can take up to a month to
process. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Shoe repair
Avalynės Taisykla B-4, Labdarių 1/22, tel. (+370) 5
262 88 63. Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Tattoos & Piercing
Drakono Ženklas B-3, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 5 261
40 64, www.tattoo.lt. Prices start from around 50Lt, but
changing the name of a former lover into an anchor and chain
usually involves a bit of work and costs more. Especially
if you’re trying to remove a Lithuanian surname. Piercing
is offered, but they won’t touch your naughty bits. Unless
you’re very sexy. They have previously refused to tattoo
tongues, but did once tattoo someone’s foot. They limped
home. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. J
Modus A-6, Kauno 6, tel. (+370) 5 233 42 38, www.
modus.lt. A little out of the centre but worth it because
they only charge 80Lt to change ‘Asta’ to ‘Pasta’. They claim
they will tattoo anything anywhere for the right price, so take
your granny along and give them a challenge. They have
previously slapped tatts on little toes and bald heads. They
also do piercing. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. J
Paradizė B-2, Totorių 15, tel. (+370) 688 589 90, www.
paradize.lt. For 50 - 150Lt you can get a matchbox, or any
similarly sized design, tattooed almost anywhere. (There are
body parts that they won’t fill with ink, but they wouldn’t tell us
which ones.) Somewhat worryingly, they couldn’t remember
the strangest tattoo they’ve ever been asked to do. They will
also poke holes in you. Q By appointment only. J
Vets & Pets
Senamiesčio Veterinarijos Klinika B-2/3, Liejyklos
6/21, tel. (+370) 699 612 65, www.veterinaras.lt.
House calls can be arranged. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. JA
Wellness
Amber Massage SPA C-5/6, Aušros Vartų 15, tel.
(+370) 5 261 49 23. The brainchild of a lady from Israel,
this strange and rather beguiling addition to the city’s growing
wellness community provides a range of massages using
amber, from little rods of it to bags of crushed amber to an
entire mini beach of the stuff that you lie on whilst a young
lady walks on top of you. There’s a sauna too, and the whole
thing has been designed to re-energise owning to amber’s
peculiar proclivity to generate small amounts of electricity.
Note that the opening hours listed here are a guideline. Appointments
can be made outside of office hours. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. JA
Ayurvedic SPA Centre Shanti J-4, Subačiaus 17,
tel. (+370) 606 755 57, www.ajurveda.lt. Enjoy a
steam sauna, a copper rose bath, massage for two, tea
ceremony or ayurvedic relaxing massage and peeling. They
speak English and also offer gift vouchers. QOpen 10:00
- 21:00. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun (June - August).
JA
Azia Spa B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 244 46 46,
info@aziaspa.lt, www.aziaspa.lt. A range of Eastern-style
massages with a Buddhist philosophy, plus spa treatments,
body scrubs, aromatherapy and more. Thai masseurs on
hand fo the ultimate authentic experience. Special massages
for couples also available. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA
East Island Exotic C-4, Didžioji 40/2, tel. (+370) 5 212
55 99, www.eastisland.lt. Spice up your life with a range of
massages including several delivered with the aid of stones,
honey and even chocolate. They also offer their so-called ‘exciting
erotic all body massage’ alongside a less risqué range
of facials, body masks and scrubs. Also at Šv. Kazimiero 2.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. J
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Exotic Spa I-1, Kareivių 14 (Impuls Plius), tel. (+370)
605 556 66, www.exoticspa.lt. A choice of fabulous and
titillating massages from the conventional to the naughty. Also
a wide range of spa bath treatments, seaweed body wraps
and plenty, plenty more. Also at Šv. Mikalojaus 5. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00
(June - August). A
Exotic Spa Morocco B-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370)
5 212 12 15/(+370) 605 556 66, spa@exoticspa.lt,
www.morocco.exoticspa.lt. A wide range of massages and
spa procedures, spa treatment packages for couples and a
few saucy options for gentlemen, all inside an atmospheric Old
Town cellar. See the website for a full list of services.
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. J
Idzumi Spa I-2, Sporto 12, tel. (+370) 5 247 24 70,
www.idzumi.lt. An Asian atmosphere permeates and
soothes, as do all the treatments and services including spa,
sauna, massage, cosmetics, solarium and more. It’s a fresh
approach which will leave you feeling very alive and refreshed.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Open
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (June - August) A
Joga Visiems G-3, Lukiškių 3, tel. (+370) 689 098 16,
www.asana.lt. Weekly 90-minute Iyengar Yoga classes in English
by local man Antanas who trained in Amsterdam. Classes
start 19:00 every Sunday. Q No classes June - August.
Spa Centre East Island G-2, Konstitucijos 26 (Forum
Palace 1st floor), tel. (+370) 5 272 22 27, www.eastisland.lt.
One of the city’s largest spas, services here include
aromatic bathtubs, a wide range of Thai massages, facials
etc. and a wealth of cosmetic procedures to make you feel reborn.
The centre comes complete with an Oriental ambience
including representations of Buddha on the wall and a tranquil
Eastern soundtrack. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A
News agencies
BNS A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 205 85 01, www.
bns.lt. J
Online news
Lithuania Tribune, tel. (+370) 614 312 15, editor@
lithuaniatribune.com, www.lithuaniatribune.com. A recommended
site featuring news about Lithuania on subjects
including politics, economics and international relations.
Information is gathered from other news sources, academia
and the political world and translated into English.
Print media
Baltic Times B-5, Raugyklos 15-305, tel. (+370) 5
212 44 90, www.baltictimes.com. A weekly newspaper
in English with news about all three Baltic states. Published
every Friday and available for sale in some bookshops as well
as for free in a number of hotels. J
In Your Pocket D-2, Bernardinų 9-4, tel. (+370) 5 212
29 76, www.inyourpocket.com. Europe’s leading provider
of locally produced urban information in print, online, video,
PDF and now on the iPhone. Practical information from Dublin
to Moscow, Tallinn to Tirana. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J
Radio
BBC World Service 95.5FM, www.bbc.co.uk/
worldservice.
Start FM 94.2FM. A campus radio station run by students
from Vilnius University, Start FM is the only non-commercial radio
station currently operating in the capital. The music policy is
to concentrate and highlight a wealth of home-grown music.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
liFestyle direCtory
August - November 2012
87

88 health
All you need to
know about
where to sleep,
eat, drink, visit
and enjoy
Print
Mobile
Online
Europe’s biggest publisher of
locally produced city guides
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Dentists
Dentists in Vilnius are of a high quality and relatively
inexpensive by Western standards. The following dentists
all have English-speaking staff.
A ir B Mackevičių Odontologijos
Klinika B-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus
9-9, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 12, mackeviciai@mail.lt,
www.dentaltravel.lt.
Laser-whitening 1,000Lt, implant 2,000
- 3,000Lt/tooth, prosthetic-CAM-DAM
CEREC 3 system 800 -1,500Lt, treatment with magnification
(microscope and lens). Also at Nemenčinės 54a (Baltic-
American Clinic), K. Dineikos 1, Druskininkai (SPA Vilnius).
Q Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Dr. Br. Sidaravičius A-3, Klaipėdos 2/14-3, tel.
(+370) 5 262 97 60. Check-up 30 - 120Lt, cleaning
250Lt, whitening 117Lt/tooth, filling 160 - 600Lt, implant
from 6,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
Gidenta H-3, A.Vienuolio 14-3, tel. (+370) 5 261 71
43, www.gidenta.lt. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 5 - 6Lt /
tooth, laser - whitening 780Lt, filling 80 - 200Lt, extraction
50 - 400Lt, implant 1,800 - 2,200Lt/tooth. QOpen 09:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Odontika I-4, Krivių 5, tel. (+370) 5 215 31 35, www.
odontika.com. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 150Lt, laser-whitening
25Lt/tooth, filling 100 - 160Lt, extraction 80 - 400Lt,
implant 1,650Lt/tooth. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun by
appointment only. A
V. Pūro Odontologijos Klinika C-3, Universiteto 2/18,
tel. (+370) 5 231 29 52, www.odontologijosklinika.lt.
Check-up 40 - 50Lt, cleaning 6Lt/tooth, laser - whitening,
1,000Lt, filling 150 - 300Lt, extraction 150 - 400Lt, implant
4,000 - 5,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. JA
HIV & AIDS
Communicable Diseases & AIDS Centre
(Užkrečiamųjų Ligų ir AIDS Centras) Nugalėtojų
14d, tel. (+370) 5 230 01 25, fax (+370) 5 276 79 67,
www.ulac.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Hospitals
Vilnius University Hospital (Respublikinė Vilniaus
Universitetinė Ligoninė) Šiltnamių 29, tel. (+370) 5
216 90 69, www.rvul.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 19:00. 24hrs.
Medical services
Baltic-American Clinic Nemenčinės 54a, tel. (+370) 5
234 20 20/(+370) 698 526 55, www.bak.lt. Highly recommended
modern professional health care and diagnostics,
now bigger and better than ever. Q Open 24hrs. A
Fertility Centre C-2, Maironio 25-22, tel. (+370) 5 261
42 26, www.vaisingumocentras.lt. Highly recommended
modern fertility treatments. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. JA
Fertility Clinic Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 656 444
40, www.vaisingumas.lt. Full-service gynaecologist.
Fertility treatments, obstetrics and modern therapies for
menopause. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Fri 08:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Kardiolita Laisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 00, www.
kardiolita.lt. Privately-run general hospital. Broad range of
medical services. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Medical Diagnostic and Treatment Centre (Medicinos
Diagnostikos ir Gydymo Centras) J-1, V.
Grybo 32a, tel. (+370) 5 270 91 20, www.medcentras.
lt. Excellent staff and facilities for everything from regular
check-ups to major surgery, with all the lab tests, scans and
caring guidance along the way. English speaking doctors.
24-hour urgent surgery services. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Medicine General Private Clinics B-2, Gedimino
1a-19, tel. (+370) 684 331 00 (appointments). Excellent
English-speaking doctor for general and family health located
in the city centre opposite the Cathedral. High quality care.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Northway Medical Center I-1, S. Žukausko 19, tel. (+370)
5 264 44 66, www.nmc.lt. General practitioners and specialists
in cardiology, gynaecology, otorhinolaryngology and more. QOpen
07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Novana G/H-4, Basanavičiaus 18, tel. (+370) 686 122
43, www.novana.lt. Laser-related aesthetic procedures
including permanent hair removal with IPL, skin pigmentation
treatment, lymph draining massage and much more. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Šeimos Medicinos Centras (Family Medical
Centre) A-3, Pylimo 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 86 84, www.
seimosgydytojas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Skin & Laser Surgery Center G-4, M. K. Čiurlionio
19/36-30, tel. (+370) 5 264 73 04, www.lazerinechirurgija.lt.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Sugihara Beauty Therapy & Surgery Clinic E-1, Č.
Sugiharos 3, tel. (+370) 5 270 57 10, www.sugihara.lt.
A highly trained team of consulting doctors will come to the
rescue if your beauty is slipping away. You can also indulge
yourself with a massage or various other forms of pampering.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 18:00 (June - August). A
Opticians
Optometrijos Centras B-4, Vokiečių 26, tel. (+370) 5
262 75 91, www.optometrija.lt. Also at Gedimino 9. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Rega C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 73, www.
rega.lt. Also at Gedimino 49a/2. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Vision Express B-4, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), tel.
(+370) 5 262 26 69, www.visionexpress.lt. Also at A.
Vienuolio 14, Gedimino 3a. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Pharmacies
Aušlavis C-2, Tilto 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 85 88. Homeopathic.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA
Eurovaistinė Ukmergės 282 (Maxima), tel. (+370) 5
230 37 59. Q Open 24hrs. A
Gedimino Vaistinė H-3, Gedimino 27, tel. (+370) 5
261 01 35. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. JA
Operos Vaistinė A-1, A. Vienuolio 6-21, tel. (+370)
5 212 61 16. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Universiteto Vaistinė C-3, Universiteto 2, tel. (+370)
5 212 12 19. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Vokiečių Vaistinė C-4, Didžioji 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 42
32. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
health
August - November 2012
89

90 sPort & leisure
Active leisure
Force One Tel. (+370) 5 233 98 07, info@forceone.lt,
www.forceone.lt. Extreme, outdoorsy and team-building
type activities. Mostly caters to corporate clients.
Labas Nuotykių Parkas (Labas Adventure Park) Lizdeikos,
tel. (+370) 602 323 66, www.labasnuotykiuparkas.lt.
Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the
Neris river, Labas Nuotykių Parkas offers over 1.5km of tracks
up in the trees aimed at everyone from children to beginners to
professional Tarzans. Each track comes with zip-lines for aerial
flights, plus there’s a 16m swing for the completely insane and
an aerial runway across the river. The place is hidden from the
road and there are no signposts at all. A map on their website
partially solves the mystery. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Boulingo Klubas G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249
66 00, www.boulingoklubas.lt. Complete with Lithuanian
dishes and beer, the six lanes squeezed next to each other
allow for much drunken bowling. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Wed,
Thu 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. PAW
Cosmic Bowling G-4, Vytenio 6/23, tel. (+370) 5 233
99 09, www.bowling.lt. Wonky lanes and pins on strings.
Better lanes and equipment upstairs, where prices are also
higher. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PW
Free Ball H-2, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 656
205 80. A pleasant enough space featuring a bar and several
pool tables in excellent condition. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA
Fitness & Gyms
Forum Sports Club G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370)
5 210 31 49, www.forumfitness.lt. Gym, aerobics, 25m
pool, saunas, modern equipment and the option of a personal
trainer to shout at you while you use it. Q Open 06:30 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00 (Aug). Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 22:00 (from September). AFDC
Impuls Plus I-1, Kareivių 14, tel. (+370) 615 400
72, www.impuls.lt. Strength and cardiovascular workout
gear, aerobics, sauna, spa, pool and waterslide. Also at L.
Asanavičiūtės 15, Savanorių 28, Fabijoniškių 97a. QOpen
06:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 21:00. Open 06:30 - 21:30,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00 (June - August). ADC
On wheels
Fun2Go Plytinės 27, tel. (+370) 699 567 04, www.
kartodromas.lt. This go-cart track offers speed, mayhem,
danger, so it’s just like the rest of Lithuania’s road network,
but with smaller cars and more fun. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Racquet sports
Teniso Pasaulis E-1, Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 5 246 08
36, www.sebarena.lt. 30 - 95Lt/hour depending on when
you want to play. A
Saunas
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred Boutique C-3, Pilies
24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82,
info@narutis.com, www.narutis.com. There’s a sauna,
steam room and a modest pool with spa bath. And a nice
little fountain. A hidden treat on the main tourist promenade
of Old Town. JA
Sky stuff
Oreivystės Centras (Ballooning Centre) G-3, Upės
5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.ballooning.lt. Hot-air
balloons and other off-the-ground antics.
Social sports
Hash House Harriers Tel. (+370) 685 212 43,
www.vilniushhh.blogspot.com. Run or walk around for
a bit, then drink and chat. The Vilnius chapter of this world
phenomenon meet once a month. See their blog for more
information.
Table tennis
Sostinės Stalo Teniso Sporto Klubas J-3, Olandų
6/1, tel. (+370) 654 020 59, www.vilniaus-stalo-tenisas.lt.
A large, modern table tennis club complete with lots
of tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching
or just playing for pleasure. Find it above the Maxima supermarket
on the left going up the hill. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Water sports
Diugonis (Scuba-diving) J. Matulaičio 7-38, tel.
(+370) 5 240 70 15, www.scubadiving.lt. A PADI
dive centre, with English-speaking staff, who can arrange
dives in the lakes around Trakai. Scuba gear available
for hire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Lietuvos Vaikų ir Jaunimo Centras G-2, Konstitucijos
25, tel. (+370) 5 273 33 33, www.lvjc.lt. The pool is only
25m long but it’s clean as a whistle and, despite being in a
children’s and youth centre, it’s not just for kiddies.
Vichy Aqua Park H-1, Ozo 14c, tel. 118, www.
vandensparkas.lt. A big explosion of aquatic fun with a
pleasantly up-lifting Polynesian theme throughout. There
are dizzying water slides, a pretend beach with real waves,
oodles of pools of various types (one with a bar) and all
sorts of saunas and spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs,
the taxi fare’s still worth it, or take bus N°53 if you’re feeling
cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
TAEKDC
Chess
The general consensus among historians is that chess
(šachmatai) arrived in Lithuania in the 17th century,
brought here by the ruling classes from Western Europe.
Others claim its history goes back a good deal further.
What is undeniable however is the fact that the first ever
documented game played in the country took place in
1887, the year the first chess club was founded in Lithuania.
The first international tournament took place in
Vilnius in 1912, attracting many skilful exponents from
abroad, including the great Polish master Akiba Rubinstein
(1882-1961), who won and took the title back to
his native homeland. Lithuania’s most notable exponent
was a man by the name of Vladas Mikėnas (1910-1992),
famous for beating the world champion at the time in an
albeit informal game way back in 1937. Chess remains a
favourite sport (call it a game in front of a serious player
at your own peril) among the Lithuanians, and as well as
one or two specialist clubs in Vilnius, it’s possible to find
the game being played every evening in a few bars.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

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92 Business direCtory
Banks
SEB Bankas C-4, Vokiečių 9, tel. 1528.
Accountants
Financial Services Center
B-1, Ž. Liauksmino 3, tel.
(+370) 5 262 05 34, fax
(+370) 5 262 05 35, info@fscenter.lt, www.fscenter.
lt. Accounting services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce H-3, Konstitucijos
7, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 81.
Association of Lithuanian Chambers of Commerce,
Industry & Crafts G-3, Vašingtono 1/63a,
tel. (+370) 5 261 21 02.
British Chamber of Commerce C-3/4, Didžioji 5,
tel. (+370) 5 269 00 62.
European Business Network P.O. Box 1125, tel.
(+370) 671 811 57.
Invest Lithuania (Investuok Lietuvoje) C-3, Jogailos
4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38.
Vilnius Chamber of Commerce, Industry and
Crafts G/H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 5 213 55 50.
Consumer rights
European Consumer Centre (Europos Vartotojų
Centras) B-2, Odminių 12, tel. (+370) 5 265 03 68.
Coworking
Hub Vilnius B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 615 331
56.
European Commission
European Commission A-4, Naugarduko 10, tel.
(+370) 5 231 31 91.
European Commission Information Centre A-4,
Naugarduko 10, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 83.
Foreign representations
Armenia F-3, Lenktoji 17, tel. (+370) 5 207 50 40.
Australia (Consulate) B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370)
5 212 33 69.
Austria C-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80.
Azerbaijan G-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 219 56 01.
Belarus Muitinės 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55.
Belgium A-3, K. Kalinausko 2b, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 20.
Canada A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50.
China H-5, Algirdo 36, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 62.
Čilė (Consulate) A-1, A. Jakšto 11, tel. (+370) 5 260
89 19.
Czech Republic F-3, Birutės 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 10
54.
Denmark J-3, T. Kosciuškos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87 60.
Estonia F-3, A. Mickevičiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02
00.
Finland G-4, K. Kalinausko 24 (2nd floor), tel. (+370)
5 266 80 10.
France C-3, Švarco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00.
Georgia F-3, D. Poškos 13, tel. (+370) 5 273 69 59.
Germany G-4, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 5 210
64 00.
Greece C-4, Didžioji 33/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26.
Hungary A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38.
Iceland (Consulate) F-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel. (+370)
5 215 05 75.
Ireland C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 60.
Italy F/G-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20.
Japan F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04
62.
Kazakhstan F-3, Birutės 20a/35, tel. (+370) 5 212
21 23.
Kyrgyzstan (Consulate) P. Lukšio 16-247, tel. (+370)
687 471 72.
Latvia F-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12 60.
Malta (Consulate) C-4/5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370)
5 251 44 91.
Moldova F-2, Miglos 61a, tel. (+370) 5 260 79 14.
Netherlands A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 72.
Norway A-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd floor), tel. (+370)
5 261 00 00.
Philippines (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 4 (B corps), tel.
(+370) 5 212 00 33.
Poland J-2, Smėlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 270 90 01.
Romania G-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05 57.
Russia F-3, Latvių 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 17 63.
Spain G-4, Algirdo 4, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61.
Sweden C-4, Didžioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10.
Thailand (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370)
5 268 18 92.
Turkey C-4, Didžioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 70.
UK J-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00.
Ukraine A-3, Teatro 4, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 82.
USA G-4, Akmenų 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00.
Vatican H-4, T. Kosciuškos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 96.
Interpreters
balTICK Language Services D-2, Bernardinų 9-4,
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 24.
Lawyers
Sabaliauskas ir Partneriai B-1, Ž. Liauksmino 3, tel.
(+370) 5 212 42 44.
Lithuanian officials
Department of Customs (Muitinės Departamentas)
H-3, A. Jakšto 1/25, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 27.
Government (LR Vyriausybė) B-1, Gedimino 11, tel.
(+370) 706 638 46.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs (LR Užsienio Reikalų
Ministerija) G-3, J. Tumo-Vaižganto 2, tel. (+370) 5
236 24 44.
Municipality (Savivaldybė) B-1, Konstitucijos 3, tel.
(+370) 5 211 20 00.
Parliament (LR Seimas) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel.
(+370) 5 239 60 60.
President’s Office (LR Prezidento Rūmai) C-2, S.
Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 706 641 54.
Notaries
Vilniaus m. 2-asis Notarų Biuras C-2, Tilto 15/7,
tel. (+370) 5 231 46 83.
Office rental
Start Office A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 69.
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

94 street register
All of the venues in this
guidebook marked with
an Old Town symbol (J)
are featured as such
because even if they’re
not in Old Town per se,
they are at least on the
map opposite which we
call Old Town. Confused?
Don’t be.
Aguonų A-4/6
A. Jakšto A-1
Alkūnės D-6
Arklių C-4/5
Arsenalo C/D-1
A. Smetonos A-1/2
A. Strazdelio D-5
A. Stulginskio A-2/1
Ašmenos B-4
Augustijonų C-4
Aukštaičių D-4
Aušros Vartų C-5/6
A. Volano D-3
Bazilijonų C/D-5
Beatričės A1
Benediktinių B-3
Bernardinų C-2/D-3
Bokšto C-3/D-5
B. Radvilaitės C/D-2
Didžioji C-3/4
Dominikonų B/C-3
Dysnos B-4
Etmonų C-4
Gaono C-3
Gedimino A-1/D-2
Geležinkelio C-6
Gėlių B-5
Islandijos A-2
Išganytojo C/D-3
J. Basanavičiaus A-3/4
J. Jablonskio A-5/6
J. Lelevelio A/B-1
Jogailos A-1/2
Karmelitų C-4/5
Kaštonų A1
Kauno A/B-6
Kėdainių A/B-4
K. Griniaus A-2
K. Kalinausko A-3
Klaipėdos A/B-3
Kruopų B-5
K. Sirvydo B-1
K. Škirpos D-1/2
Kūdrų D-4
K. Vanagėlio D-5
Labdarių B-2
Lapų C-5/6
Latako C/D-3
Liejyklos B-2/3
Liepkalnio D-6
Ligoninės B-4/5
Literatų C/D-3
Lydos B-4
L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus
B/C-2
M. Antokolskio C-3/4
Maironio D-2/4
Malūnų D-3
M. Daukšos D-5
Mėsinių B-5/C-4
Mindaugo A-4/6
Naručio D-6
Naugarduko A-4/5
Odminių B-2
Palangos A-3
Pamėnkalnio A-2
Pasažo C-5
Paupio D-3
Pelesos C/D-6
Pilies C-2/3
Plačioji B-5
Pranciškonų B-3/4
Punsko A-6
Pylimo A-2/C-6
Radvilų B-1
Raugyklos A-6/B-5
Rožių A-3/2
Rusų C/D-3
Rūdninkų B-5/C-4
Savičiaus C-4
Seinų B/C-6
Sodų B-5/6
S. Skapo C-2
Stiklių C-3/4
Stoties B-6
Subačiaus C/D-5
Šaltinių A/B-5
Šermukšnių A1
Šiaulių B-4
Šiltadaržio D-2
Švarco C-3
Šventaragio C-2
Šv. Dvasios D-5
Šv. Ignoto B-3
Šv. Jono C-3
Šv. Kazimiero C/D-4
Šv. Mikalojaus B-4
Šv. Mykolo C/D-3
Šv. Stepono A-6/B-5
Teatro A-3
Tilto B-1/C-2
Totorių B-2/3
Trakų A-4/B-3
Turgelių D-6
T. Vrublevskio C-1
Universiteto C-2/3
Užupio D-3
Vienuolio A1
Vilniaus B-1/3
Vingrių A/B-4
Visų Šventųjų B/C-5
Vokiečių B-3/C-4
V. Šopeno B-6
Žemaitijos B-4
Žiupronių D-5
Ž. Liauksmino B-1/C-2
Žydų B-4/C-3
Žygimantų B/C-1
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com

98 index
AAA Mano Liza 18
Academy 13
A Hostel 22
A ir B Mackevičių
Odontologijos Klinika 88
AJ Šokoladas 80
Akademinė Knyga 77
Akropolio Blusų Turgus 74
Akropolis 74
Alaus Studija 44
Alchemikas 48
Alexa 18
Algirdas City Hotels 19
Amatininkų Užeiga 44
Amatų Gildija 13
Ambassador 20
Amber 76
Amber Massage SPA 86
Amber Museum-Gallery 76
Amberton Hotel 16
Amber Tours 71
Ameda 21
American Center 15
American International School
of Vilnius 85
Antakalnis Cemetery 66
Apartments Domus247 23
Apia Hotel 19
Applied Arts Museum 56
Ararat 27
Archaeology Museum 56
Armenia 92
Artis Centrum Hotels 16
Arts Printing House 14
Astrida 64
Atrium 16
Auksinis Trikampis 23
Aukso Avis 82
Aula 24
Aušlavis 89
Aušros Vartų Meno Galerija 82
Austrian Gourmet & Bistro 81
Aux Champs - Elysées 29
Avalynės Taisykla 86
Ayurvedic SPA Centre
Shanti 86
Azia Spa 86
Baku-Ceyhan 39
Baltic-American Clinic 88
balTICK Language
Services 92
Baltic Times 87
Baltic Travel Service
Lufthansa City Center 64, 71
Balti Drambliai 43
Balzac 29
Bambalynė 49
Barbacan Apartments 19
BBC World Service 87
Beata Amber 76
Beauty Institute 84
Berlin 48
Bernardine Cemetery 66
Bernardine Church &
Monastery 58
Bernardinų B&B House 21
Best Western Vilnius 17
Biosala 81
Bistro 18 31
Bitė 73
Bitinėlis 83
Blusynė Lounge 48
BNS 87
Bokšto Vartai 28
Boulingo Klubas 90
Boutique of Various Things 83
BPC Travel 71
British Council 15
Brodvėjus 47
Budget 69
Bunte Gans 30
Buses 68
Būsi Trečias 49
Bus Station 69
By train 6
CAC Reading Room 86
Čaichana 42
California Gourmet 28
California Tapas & Wine 42
Castle & Trakai History
Museum 65
Cathedral-Basilica of St.
Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus 59
Central Post Office 73
Centre for Tolerance 67
Centre of Europe 61
Centro Kubas - Angel 19
C Gates 84
Chabad Lubavitch Centre 67
Charlie Pizza 41
China 92
Choral Synagogue 67
Church Heritage Museum 56
Church of Sts. Michael &
Constantine 58
Church of the Holy Cross 58
Church of the Holy Mother
of God 58
Čili Pica 41
Citadele 84
City Gate 19
Cocainn 47
Collectors' Club 74
Come to Vilnius 22
Comfort Hotel Lt 19
Comfort Vilnius 19
Communicable Diseases &
AIDS Centre 88
Congress 17
Contemporary Arts Centre 13
Conti 17
Corner Hotel 21
Cosmic Bowling 90
Cozy 31
Crowne Plaza Vilnius 17
Da Antonio 36
Daiktų Viešbutis 83
Danish Cultural Institute 15
Dawn Gate 61
DD Projects 84
De' Žavu 83
DHL 73
Didysis Pegasas 77
Didžioji Krautuvė 81
Diugonis 90
Dolls 53
Domino Theatre 14
Domus Maria 19
Drakono Ženklas 86
Draugystė 77
Druskos Namai 32
Dvaras 17
Dviratis Tau 83
Eastanbul 81
East Island Exotic 86
Eat East 27
Ecotel Vilnius 21
Eden Club 53
El Gaucho Sano 27
EMS 73
Entry 44
Esse 32
Estonia 92
Eugenijus Apartments 23
Europa 74
Europa City Vilnius 20
Europa Royale Vilnius 17
Europa Stay Vilnius 20
Europos Parkas 62
Eurovaistinė 89
Exotic Spa 87
Exotic Spa Morocco 87
Fabra Ars 77
Fertility Centre 88
Fertility Clinic 88
Figaro 84
Filaretai 22
Financial Services Center 92
Fiorentino 36
Flower Market 80
Force One 90
Fortas 44
Forto Dvaras 25
Forum Cinemas Vingis 13
Forum Sports Club 90
Fototechnika 82
France 92
Franciscan Church 59
Franko 84
Frank Zappa 64
Free Ball 90
French Bookshop Pegasas 77
French Institute 15
French International School 85
Gatineau 84
Gediminas Castle &
Museum 56
Gedimino 9 74
Gedimino Vaistinė 89
Gėlės ir Manufaktūra 80
Genocide Victims' Museum 56
Georgia 92
Germany 92
Gidenta 88
Gimme 42
Gintraka 82
Goethe Institute 15
Golf City 83
Gourmet Delicafe 81
Gourmet Pizza 41
Government 92
Graf Zeppelin 25
Grand Duke Gediminas 64
Green Bridge 62
Green Vilnius Hotel 20
Grill Brazil 27
Grill Inn 32
Gringo 44
Grotthuss 17
Gyvo Alaus Krautuvėlė 81
Halės Market 76
Hash House Harriers 90
Hill of Three Crosses 62
Holiday Inn 18
Holy Miko's 32
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian
Gate 59
Humanitas 80
iDeal Solution 80
Idzumi Spa 87
IKI 81
IKI Commercial Centre 74
Iki Express 81
Impuls Plus 90
IMuzika 82
Indian Maharaja 31
Information Bureau 85
Invest Lithuania 92
In Your Pocket 87
Ireland 92
Italian Cultural Institute 15
Jalta 32
Japan 92
Jaunimo Perspektyva 86
Jewelry Art Studio 14
Jewish Community of
Lithuania 67
Joga Visiems 87
Joglė 84
Jonas Bugailiškis Art Studio 13
Julia Janus 82
Julija Fashion House 82
Kalnų Parkas 66
Kalvarijų Market 76
Kardiolita 89
Katpėdėlė 25
Kazakhstan 92
Keisti Ženklai 25
Kelionių Panorama 71
Kempinski Hotel Cathedral
Square 16
Kenesa 62
KFC 40
Kibin Inn 39
Kino Studija 84
Kitchen 33
Kodak ProCentras 86
Koldūninė 25
Komisas 83
Krantas Travel 71
La Bohème 49
Labuki 37
La Crepe 40
Laisvės Turas 83
La Pergola 33
La Provence 28
Lauro Lapas 34
Lazdynų Pelėda 64
Leičiai 45
Lėlė Puppet Theatre 14
Linen & Amber Studio 82
Lingua Lituanica 85
Lino Kopos 82
Lino Namai 82
Literatų Gatvė 62
Lithuanian Central Registry
Archive 85
Lithuanian Central State
Archive 85
Lithuanian Holidays 64
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar
Cemetery 66
Lithuanian Music & Theatre
Academy 13
Lithuanian National Drama
Theatre 14
Lithuanian National Opera &
Ballet Theatre 14
Lithuanian National
Philharmonic 13
Lithuanian Tours 71
Lithuania Tribune 87
Litinterp Guest House 22
Lux Express 69
Mabre Residence 18
Mamma Mia 81
Mano Guru 41
Mano Lietuviški Namai 82
Map of the Ghetto 67
Marceliukės Klėtis 26
Marks & Spencer 80
Markus ir Ko 42
Matrix 84
McDonald's 40
Meat Lovers Pub 42
Medininkai 34
Meno Fortas 14
Meno Niša 13
Menų Fabrikas 14
Mikotel 21
Mimoza/Vinchenso 49
Mindaugas 64
Minibuses 68
Mint Vinetu 80
Miyako 37
M. K. Čiurlionis' House 62
Mersera 68
Mojitos 48
Molio Laumė 13
Money Museum 57
Multikino 13
Municipality 92
Narutis Restaurant 28
National Art Gallery 57
National Museum 57
National Youth Theatre 15
Neringa 18, 34
Nesė Casino 53
New York 52
Northway Medical Center 89
Notre Vie 49
Novana 89
Novotel Vilnius Centre 18
Odontika 88
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre 15
Old Town Hostel 23
Old Town Strip Club 53
Omnitel 73
Ona 83
Operos Vaistinė 89
Opium 47
Optometrijos Centras 89
Oreivystės Centras 64, 90
Orthodox Church of St.
Paraskeva 59
Orthodox Church of the Holy
Spirit 60
Osteria da Luca 36
Ozas 74
Pabo Latino 47
Paneriai Memorial Museum 67
Panorama 74
Pantera 48
Paparazzi 48
Paradise 53
Paradizė 86
Park Inn Vilnius North 20
Park Villa 18
Pasaka 13
Paupio Namai 22
Piano.lt 13
Piano Man 45
Pizza Hut Express 41
Pogo Hostel 23
Pomodoro 41
Ponių Laimė 31
Pramogų Arena 13
Prie Katedros 34
Prospekto Galerija 14
Prosport 83
Radisson Blu Astorija 16
Ragainė 83
Raktinė 85
Raktų Centras 85
Ramada Hotel & Suites
Vilnius 16
Rasos Cemetery 66
Raw42 43
Raw Raw 43
Reformed Evangelical
Church 60
Rega 89
Registry 85
Reinis The Cook 39
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai
Hotel 16
Rentida Apartments 23
Rib Room 35
Rimas 69
Rimi Hypermarket 74
Rinno 20
Riverside 35
Roast & Beer Pub 35
Romania 92
Rūdninkų Knygynas 80, 83
Rūdninkų Vartai 21
Russia 92
Rūta 81
Ryanair 71
Salentino Café 33
Salento DiscoPub 47
Šarūnas 18
Saulės Gojus 85
Saulės Namai 21
Sauluva 82
Savas Kampas 49
Senamiesčio Gidas 71
Senamiesčio Krautuvė 81
Senasis Kuparas 77
Senatoriai 20
Senoji Pasaga 26
Sensus Grill & Wine 35
Sensus Terasa 44
Senukai 82
Shakespeare Boutique
Hotel 18
Shanti 38
Shooters 48
Siemens Arena 13
Sixt 69
Skalbiu Sau 84
Skalvija 13
Skin & Laser Surgery
Center 89
Skonio Studija 81
ŠMC 45
Šnekutis 49
Sofa de Pancho 40
Soho 52
Sonnets 35
Sostinės Turgus 76
Souvenir Market 76
Spa Centre East Island 87
Spain 92
Sportas ir Mada 83
Sriubos Namai 42
St. Anne's Church 60
Start FM 87
Stasys Apartments 23
St. Casimir's Church 60
St. Catherine's Church 13
Steak House Hazienda 42
Stiklių Dvaras 19
St. Nicholas' Church 60
Sts. Johns' Church 60
St. Theresa's Church 61
Studio 9 38
Šturmų Švyturio Žuvys 81
Submarine 41
Sue's Indian Raja 31
Sulčius 38
Sura 39
Sveiki Produktai 81
Šviežia Kava 33
TaDas 14
Tamsta 52
Tappo D'oro 49
Taškas 73
Tautodailininko Dirbtuvė 13
Television Tower 63
Terra Eldorado 30
Terra Recognita 14
Thailand 92
The Beautiful Land Of
Nevermind 71
Thelonious 83
The Narutis Hotel - Preferred
Boutique 16, 90
The Notebook Shop 80
Thierry Kepykla 26
Tiflisi-Dukani 30
Titanikas 14
TNT 73
Tores 35
Town Hall 63
Train Station 69
Transilvanija 45
Tres Mexicanos 40
Tymo Turgus 76
Ūkio Banko Teatro Arena 13
Universiteto Vaistinė 89
Uzbekistanas 43
Užupio Galerija 13
Užupio Kalvystės Galerija -
Muziejus 13
Užupio Krautuvė 82
Užupio Meno Inkubatorius 14
Užupis Angel 65
Vaga 80
Vapiano 37
Vartai 14
Vasaros Terasa 44
Vatican 92
VCUP 74
Vegafé 43
VeloCity Tours & Rent 71
Veloklinika.lt 71
Veranda 36
Vichy Aqua Park 90
Vienuolyno Kiemas 44
Vieta 43
Vilbra Foto 82
Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija 14
Vilnius Antiques Centre 77
Vilnius Apartments 23
Vilnius City Tour 64
Vilnius Congress Hall 13
Vilnius International Airport 70
Vilnius International School 85
Vilnius Montessori
pre-School 85
Vilnius Tourist Information 7
Vilnius University 64
Vilnius University Hospital 88
Vilnius Youth Tourist
Centre 23
ViniusTransfer.com 69
Visit Lithuania 71
Wok & Roll 27
Yurga 82
Žemaičiai 26
Žemaitė 65
Znad Wilii 14
Zoe's Bar & Grill 36
Žuvinė 34
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com