The budva Riviera Theatre City Sveti Stefan Kotor - In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps 

N°1 

Complimentary copy 

www.inyourpocket.com 

budva 

Including 

Kotor 

2012 

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- 

written series of guidebooks.” 

The New York Times 

The budva Riviera 

Some of the Adriatic’s best beaches 

can be found in and around Budva 

Theatre City 

A city-wide open-air performing arts 

festival like none other in the region 

Sveti Stefan 

Follow in the footsteps of the world’s 

most glamourous holidaymakers

Choose Prva! 

 

 

 

 

For all that matters 

Choose Prva! 

Branch Oces 

Budva 

Branch Oce Budva, Mediteranska St. 5 

Toward hotel Avala resort & Spa Villas 

Counter Splendid, Conference & Spa resort 

Bečići bb 

Tivat 

Branch Oce Tivat, Pine bb 

City promenade 


Branch Oce Kotor, Trg od oružja bb 

Main Old Town Square 

ATMs 

Budva 

Mediteranska St. 5, Branch Oce Budva 


Mediteranska St. 8, Main Post Oce Budva 


Bečići, Splendid Conference & Spa resort 

Reception 

Bečići, Splendid Conference & Spa resort 

Counter 

Petrovac bb, Post Oce 


Trg od oružja bb, Branch Oce Kotor 

Main Old Town Square 

Hotel Cattaro – Maximus 

Prvoboraca St. 232, Casino Win 

Tivat 

Pine bb, Branch Oce Tivat 

City promenade

4 Contents 

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES 

Contents 

Arriving & Getting Around 8 

Transportation and tourist info 

The Basics 12 

Budva by the numbers and more 

History 15 

Mythological founding to independence 

Language 15 

Basics for eating, drinking and getting around 

Where to stay 16 

Exclusive resorts to basic apartments 

Restaurants 27 

Meat-lovers rejoice, vegetarians beware 

Unlike our cover photo, you won’t need your own flying 

machine to get a shot from this angle, photo by Aleksandar 

Jaredić 

The famed Sveti Stefan resort island is only a few 

kilometres south of Budva, photo courtesy of the Tourist 

Organisation of Budva 

Cafés 36 

Get your caffeine fix or start drinking early 

Nightlife 38 

Beach bars, pubs and one enormous club 

Beaches 42 

A full guide to Budva’s raison d’être 

Sightseeing 44 

The old town, Sveti Stefan and more 

Shopping 50 

Exclusive shopping at Porto Montenegro 

Kotor 52 

A UNESCO heritage site unlike any other 

Directory 58 

SIM cards, laundry and everything in between 

Maps & Index 

Budva Riviera map 59 

City centre map 60 

Index 62 

Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com 

PORTO MONTENEGRO 

T H E ME D’S LE ADING LUXUR Y YACHT 

H O M E P ORT AN D MAR I N A VILLAGE 

INTERNATIONAL SHOPPING 

NAVAL HERITAGE COLLECTION 

CHILDREN’S PLAYGROUND PIRATE SHIP 

WATERFRONT DINING 

WATER SPORTS 

PUROBEACH POOL & BAR 

+382 (0)32 660 900 or info@portomontenegro.com 

www.portomontenegro.com

6 Foreword 

It’s with great honour and satisfaction that we proudly 

bring you the first edition of Budva In Your Pocket, just in 

time for the 2012 summer season. In the following pages 

you will (hopefully) find everything you need to know 

about the city before and during your stay in the undisputed 

capital of Montenegro’s Adriatic coast. It’s with 

good reason that Budva is nicknamed the Montenegrin 

Miami, as the beach takes centre stage here, the nightlife 

is by far the best in the entire region and every year 

more of the world’s elite jet setters flock here for a taste 

of everything the Budva Riviera has to offer. That said, 

don’t fret if you’re not fortunate enough to count yourself 

among the ultra-wealthy or prefer culture to clubbing, as 

the city offers something for every budget and boasts 

enough sights to keep even veteran travellers satisfied. 

We’ve also made sure to include a few of Budva’s world 

famous neighbours, namely the fortified island resort 

town of Sveti Stefan, and Kotor, a UNESCO Heritage 

site on one of the Mediterranean’s most breathtaking 

bays. Thanks to all the welcoming, proud, friendly, drunk, 

knowledgeable, helpful locals who assisted us while we 

were painstakingly researching the guide at Budva’s 

many beaches, bars and restaurants - as they say, it’s 

tough work, but someone’s got to do it! If you have any 

questions, comments or suggestions we welcome any 

and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter 

or even old-fashioned email. 

Cover story 

Dominated by the bell tower of St John the Baptist 

Church, what Budva’s old town lacks in square metres 

it makes up for with centuries of historical intrigue, 

reminders of which can be found around nearly every 

corner. In our humble opinion, wandering aimless down 

the beautifully restored alleyways is one of the most 

pleasant ways to pass your time at the coast. Throw in a 

couple of beaches with azure waves lapping against the 

ancient city walls, a few atmospheric bars and several 

genuinely homey traditional restaurants and you’ve got 

yourself one hell of an old town. 

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES 

Budva In Your Pocket 

Moskovska 16, Podgorica 

Montenegro 

budva@inyourpocket.com 


ISSN 1800-9778 

Printed by Golbi Print Podgorica 

Published 1 time per year 

30,000 copies 

Editorial 

Editor Yuri Barron 

Research Adria Management Group 

Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė 

Photos Branka Jovanović, Yuri Barron, 

Tourist Organisation of Budva 

Cover Tourist Organisation of Budva 

Sales & Circulation 

General Manager Marko Mirović 

marko.mirovic@inyourpocket.com 

+382 69 55 67 95 

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Text and photos copyright PIYP 

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Budva In Your Pocket budva.inyourpocket.com

8 Arriving & getting Around 

Flights 

Tivat International Airport is only 8km away, but unless 

you’re coming with your own private jet or on one of the frequently 

scheduled flights from Russia, you’ll most likely be 

arriving at Podgorica Airport, which has many direct flights 

to around a dozen or European cities throughout the year. 

Buses 

Local buses begin and terminate in Mediteranska Street, 

directly opposite Perla. Two lines run all the way to Sveti 

Stefan and Petrovac, both starting at 06:00 and running 

every 15-20 minutes during the summer, with the last 

buses back to Budva leaving around midnight. In the summer 

additional also go to Jaz, Trsteno and Ploče every hour 

from 07:00 to 18:00. Intercity and international buses are 

frequent and surprisingly punctual, with the most common 

routes being Hercog Novi, Podgorica and Belgrade. There 

are also daily buses to Dubrovnik in the summer, but it’s 

advisable to arrive early if you want a ticket. 

Cars and Parking 

In short, driving and parking your own car during the 

summer in Budva is a nightmare at best and an absurd 

exercise in futility at worst. While having your own car 

is great for exploring the countryside and getting to the 

beach, make sure to book a hotel with parking and avoid 

driving in the city to avoid unnecessary headaches. 

Airlines 

Montenegro Airlines B-3, Mediteranska 21, tel. +382 

33 45 17 35/+382 33 45 62 44, office.podgorica@ 

mgx.me, www.montenegroairlines.com. QOpen 08:00 

- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 

Airports 

Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom Podgorica) Golubovci, 

tel. +382 20 44 42 44/+382 20 44 42 33, fax +382 20 

44 42 21, info@apm.co.me, www.montenegroairports. 

com. TGD. 

Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) Tivat, tel. +382 32 

67 09 60, fax +382 32 67 09 50, dispatch@aptivat.com, 

www.montenegroairports.com. 

Car Rental 

Amon D-1, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 69 43 33 

44/+382 33 46 58 12, info@amon-budva.me, www. 

amon-budva.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 

Tourist information 

Tourist Organization of Budva (Turistička 

organizacija Budve) B/C-3, Mediteranska 8/6, 

TQ Plaza, tel. +382 33 40 28 14/+382 33 40 28 15, 

tob@t-com.me, www.budva.travel. Budva’s friendly 

tourism office can help with accommodation and travel 

tips. It’s located on the 6th floor of TQ Plaza. Check bellow 

to see the locations of their info points in town. QOpen 

08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 

Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 1) C-2, 

Trg Sunca bb, tel. +382 33 45 34 16, www.budva. 

travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. 

Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 2) 

B-4, Njegoševa 28, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 27 

50, www.budva.travel. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 

09:00 - 14:00. 


C-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, Bus station, tel. +382 68 

89 09 24, www.budva.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, 

Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Open: June - September 


E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 69 26 78 12, www. 

budva.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. 

June - August 


J-2, Rafailovići bb, tel. +382 69 63 35 91, www. 

budva.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. 

June - August 

Tourist Organization of Budva (Info Point 6) J-2, 

Pržno bb, tel. +382 69 14 53 11, www.budva.travel. 

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. June - August 


J-2, Sveti Stefan, www.budva.travel. Find all the information 

you need in Cipa and Levantin travel agencies. 

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. June - August. 


10 Arriving & getting Around 

Bon Voyage H-2, Bečići bb, tel. +382 67 35 03 

33/+382 68 81 21 00, info@bonvoyage-rentacar.com, 

www.bonvoyage-rentacar.com. 

City Car B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 69 01 16 00/+382 

67 61 16 00, www.rentacarcity.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 

Dimpex C-3, Južni bulevar bb, tel. +382 69 38 95 

01/+382 69 02 76 32, dimpex@t-com.me, www. 

rentacardimpex.com. 

Magic E-3, CDF Podkošljun bb, tel. +382 33 40 17 

30/+382 67 60 63 14, magic.rentacar@t-com.me. 

QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. 

Mixage E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 89 

18/+382 67 45 67 67, mixage@t-com.me, www.mixage.me. 

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 

Sixt D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 67 64 52 01, office@sixt.co.me, 

www.sixt.co.me. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, 

Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 

Terrae Car B/C-3, Mediteranska bb (TQ Plaza), tel. 

+382 67 24 88 99/+382 69 44 43 34, terrae-car@t-com. 

me, www.terraecar.com. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 

Travel Agencies 

Adria D.M.C. C-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, tel. +382 33 45 

51 81/+382 33 45 51 82, adriaex@t-com.me. QOpen 

08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 

Maroje Travel B-1, tel. +382 33 45 42 19/+382 69 55 

43 96, marojebd@t-com.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 

Monteline Travel D-3, Hotel Slovenska plaža, tel. +382 

33 45 26 07, monteline@t-com.me, www.montelinetravel. 

com. Trips around Montenegro. QOpen 09:00 - 00:00. 

Montenegro Cruising H-2, Bečići bb, tel. +382 68 82 

13 00/+382 33 47 18 91, marketing@montenegrocruising.com, 

www.montenegrocruising.com. QOpen 09:00 

- 11:00 15-:00-21:00. 

Taxis 

Although size-wise Budva is a town that can easily be covered 

on foot, walking around in oppressive summer heat is a far 

from pleasurable experience. Luckily, Budva’s taxis are plentiful, 

comfortable and even cheap if you call one of the more 

reputable companies we’ve listed here. Hailing one on the 

street, especially at taxi ranks, almost guarantees you’ll be 

overcharged at least two or three times the going rate. 

Hello Tel. +382 195 55. 

Slava Tel. +382 197 15/+382 68 01 97 15 (sms). 

19715 

Terrae Tel. +382 197 17, terrae-car@t-com.me, 

www.terraecar.com. 

Pilon C-3, 22 Novembra bb, tel. +382 33 45 21 26/+382 

69 25 64 44, pilon@t-com.me, www.pilontravel.com. 

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 

Prometheus E-1, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 31 

22/+382 69 34 56 64, prometheus@t-com.me, www.montenegro.prometheus-travel.com. 

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. 

R-Tours E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 15 02, 

rtoursbd@t-com.me, www.r-tours.me. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, 

Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 

Silver Holiday C-1, I Proleterske S52, tel. +382 33 45 

20 05, mneotpusk@gmail.com, www.silverholiday.me. 

Q Open: Mon - Sat 08:00-13:00 and 16:00-21:00 

Talas M C-1, I Proleterske S53, tel. +382 33 40 25 

40/+382 33 40 38 60, booking@talas-montenegro.com, 

www.talas-m.co.me. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 

Travel Centar E-3, Lugovi bb, tel. +382 33 45 97 06, 

tc@t-com.me, www.tc-montenegro.com. QOpen 09:00 - 

19:00. Closed Sun. 


12 BAsiCs 

We’ll make sure to send Hello Kitty a few copies of the 

guide, so this little girl can get some free swag from them 

Communism 

The communist era was a dark age for many countries 

in Europe, but many older people in Montenegro fondly 

tell stories of how good it was when called each other 

comrade (druže) and lived in the Socialist Federal Republic 

of Yugoslavia, a country with something to say on the world 

stage. But apart from some statues and buildings, the visible 

communist legacy is disappearing fast. 

Driving 

Getting around the country by car is relatively fast and 

efficient, though driving can be manic; beware of daredevils 

overtaking on blind corners. The maximum speed 

in Montenegro is 50km/hr in towns and villages, 80km/hr 

on other roads unless indicated otherwise, which is strictly 

enforced around Budva - especially on the stretch of road 

into town from the airport. 

Electricity 

Montenegrin domestic electricity is 220V AC, 50 Hertz, 

supplied through standard European two-pin sockets. 

Gay & Lesbian 

The Balkan paternalistic macho culture is strong in 

Montenegro, with men expected to be chunky and manly, 

and women to be elegant and dependent. Public displays of 

homosexuality are not tolerated and gay visitors should be 

Climate 

Purchasing power 

How far does your euro, pound or dollar go? 

Taxi from airport to city centre €10 

Espresso €1-1.50 

Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €2-2.5 

Mineral water (1.5 litre) €0.50 

Mars bar €0.50 

Exchange rates 

1 EUR € = 1.27 US$ = 0.81 UK£ = 1.20 CHF = 

(21 June 2012) 

8.08 CNY = 101 ¥ = 41 руб 

careful to avoid hostile reactions. Even in the international 

resort town of Budva there’s little tolerance, and there are 

as yet no gay bars or clubs. 

Mobile Phones 

While a mobile phone from your home country should have 

no problem roaming on Montenegro’s networks, to avoid bill 

shock after you return it’s best to get a local Montenegrin 

number, even if you don’t plan to make many calls. As a 

point of reference, we once paid nearly €3 per minute to 

make calls from our Slovenian number. SIM cards from all 

the major carriers can be purchased at any of the numerous 

phone shops or post offices around town for only a few 

euros (ID required). 

Money 

Montenegro’s official currency is the euro (€), with notes 

coming in the standard denominations between €5 and €500, 

while coins are worth between €0.01 and €2. Montenegro 

unilaterally decided to switch from the Yugoslav dinar to 

the German mark in 1999, and adopted the euro when the 

currency was introduced in 2002. Although Montenegro 

doesn’t have a monetary agreement with the European 

Central Bank and does not have issuing rights, the EU does 

not object to Montenegro using it. Euros are best obtained 

from ATMs where EU account holders should be charged the 

same transaction fees as in their home country. 

Registration 

Foreigners spending the night in Montenegro officially 

need to be registered. All hotels and registered private 

accommodations take care of this for you. However, if you’re 

staying in the latter double check that the owner has done 

so, as you can have problems exiting the country if this was 

not the case. 

Religion 

The major religion in Montenegro is Orthodox Christianity. 

Other important religious communities are Muslims, 

especially in the Albanian-inhabited area around Ulcinj, and 

Catholics. 

Safety 

Budva is a peaceful place and visitors should take no 

more precautions than for other European cities. With a 

prevalent and youthful café culture, alcohol poisoning and/ 

or falling in love with a local are currently the biggest threats 

to foreigners. 


14 BAsiCs 

balkans 

In Your Pocket 

Covering 70 cities and towns in nine 

Balkan countries, In Your Pocket offers 

unparalleled access to travel information 

and foreign travellers. Whether 

you’re planning a business/leisure 

trip, or if you’re looking to advertise to 

travellers with money to spend, In Your 

Pocket is the city guide series for you. 


Smoking 

Visitors to restaurants and bars will see plenty of nosmoking 

signs and a number of non-smoking areas, but 

unfortunately the locals’ rebellious spirit and tobacco 

addictions mean that these are widely ignored. If you’re 

a foreign smoker it’s not uncommon for waiters to 

accommodate you by bringing a small dish rather than a 

proper ashtray, which limits their risk of fine in the event 

that an inspector is lurking about. 

Visas 

For stays of up to 90 days, visas are not required for 

citizens of the EU, western and many other countries. All 

others need a visa, although those with valid Schengen 

(EU) visas or US visas may stay visa-free for up to seven 

days. 

Water 

While tap water is officially safe to drink in Budva, 

bottled water is widely available, and as far as we’re 

concerned it’s better to be safe than sorry whilst on 

holiday. You can support the local economy by buying good 

Montenegrin brands like Aqua Bianca, Aqua Monta and 

Suza. 

Vice 

Prostitution and drug use are illegal in Montenegro, and 

plain-clothes police officers won’t have any second thoughts 

about arresting and charging foreigners who are looking to 

have a little too much fun. 

Montenegro by the numbers 

Population 

Montenegro 620,029, Budva 19,218 (2011) 

Territory 

13,812 square kilometres 

Borders 

Adriatic 293km Albania 172km Bosnia 255km 

Croatia 14km Kosovo 60km Serbia 143km 

Longest river 

Tara (Drina) 144km (110km in Montenegro) 

Largest lake 

Skadar 370-530 square kilometres (shared with 

Albania. Size depends on water level) 

Highest point 

Bobotov Kuk (Durmitor) 2,523m 

Longest beach: 

Velika Plaža, Ulcinj 13km 

UNESCO World Heritage sites 

Durmitor National Park, Kotor old town, Kotor Bay, 

Tara Canyon 

Local time 

GMT+1 Daylight saving time between the last Sundays 

of March and October. 


Budva is considered one of the oldest settlements on the 

Adriatic coast, with vast archeological evidence suggesting 

that it had already developed into an urban area as early 

as 500 BC. But of course like many - if not most - ancient 

Mediterranean towns, Budva also has a founding mythology 

that goes back even further. 

Legend has it that the Phoenician prince Cadmus and his 

wife Harmonia landed near modern Budva after having fled 

from Thebes, which he had founded some years earlier after 

consulting the oracle at Delphi and following a special cow 

all the way to Egypt. Before you laugh, know that Budva has 

an even stronger bovine connection, as Cadmus‘ mode of 

transport on his flight from Thebes was oxen, which in Greek 

are called ‚bous‘, from which Budva‘s name was derived. 

In more archeologically supported terms, Budva was already 

inhabited by the Illyrians prior to the 5th century BC, when 

it was described in one of the plays of famed Greek tragedian 

Sophocles. The following century it developed into a 

wealthy Hellenist trading centre and colonised by the Greeks 

for several hundred years. The prosperity it enjoyed during 

this period made it an attractive takeover target for the 

expansionist Romans, who gained control of ancient Budva 

in the year 168 BC and ruled it continuously for nearly half 

a millennium, until their inevitable downfall in 395. 

Now boasting grand buildings, paved roads and thick defensive 

walls, the city came under the control of the Byzantine at 

the beginning of the 6th century, and although this nominally 

remained the case well into the 12th century, Slavs began 

moving into the area as early as the 7th century and were 

Language 

The locals have recently decided to officially name the 

language they speak Montenegrin. This is a dialect of Serbian 

that has been promoted as the national language since 

independence in 2006, though many locals still declare they 

simply speak Serbian. Whatever you want to call it, it’s a south 

Slavic language closely linked to others in the region, but with 

small variations and an alphabet that has two extra letters. 

As in Serbia, both the Latin and Cyrillic can be used to 

write Montenegrin, though nearly all texts, street names 

and newspapers are in Latin script. While we’re on the 

topic of language, note that people from Montenegro are 

not Montenegroes as you sometimes see written, but 

Montenegrins. 

Pronunciation 

Č č like ch in church 

Ć ć similar to č,- but softer 

DŽ dž like g in George 

Đ/DJ đ/dj like j in jaw 

J j like y in yes 

Š š like sh in show 

U u like oo in roof 

Ž ž like x in luxurious 

Niceties & Necessities 

Yes Da No Ne 

Hello Zdravo Goodbye doviđenja 

Good Dobro Please Molim 

Thank you Hvala Here you are Izvolite 

Good morning Dobro jutro Good day Dobar dan 

Good evening Dobro veče Good night Laku noć 

Cheers! Živjeli! All the best! Sve najbolje! 

Excuse me Oprostite Sorry Izvinite 

How are you? Kako si? 

budva.inyourpocket.com 

History 

already a well-established ethnic group by 841 when the city 

was sacked the Saracens. 

In 1186, Budva fell under Serbian control for the first time, 

and remained part of the Nemanjić dynasty until the Venetians 

came at the beginning of the 15th century. Between 

then and the downfall of the Most Serene Republic in 1797, 

Budva‘s old town took the form for which it is still famous 

to this day. 

As with most of Europe, the turn of the 19th century was a 

tumultuous time for Budva, as control passed between the 

empires of Venice, Austria, Russia and France in a period 

of only a single decade, before finally falling back to the 

Austrians, under whom Budva stayed for over a century 

until Serbian and Montenegrin independence finally came 

in 1918 at the end of WWI. 

From this point onwards, Budva‘s history converges with 

that of modern Montenegro‘s, first becoming a part of 

the Kingdom of Serbs. Croats and Slovenes and later the 

Kingdom of Yugoslavia during the interwar period, before 

emerging as one of the six constituent republics of social 

Yugoslavia after WWII. 

After the infamous breakup of Yugoslavia began in 1990, 

Montenegro stuck out the union longer than others, only 

beginning to sever ties with Belgrade in 1996, officially 

dropping the Yugoslavia moniker in 2003 and finally gaining 

full independence after a referendum in 2006 - making 

Montenegro either the second, third or fourth youngest state 

in the world depending on your calculations. 

Practicalities 

My name is... Moje ime je… 

I’m from... Ja sam iz… 

...UK ...Velika Britanija 

...USA ...Amerika 

I don’t understand Ne razumijem 

I don’t speak... Ne govorim... 

... Montenegrin/Serbian Crnogorski/Srpski 

What’s your name? Kako se ti zoveš?/Kako ti je ime? 

A ticket, please Kartu, molim 

How much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta? 

When? Kada? 

Now Sada / Odmah 

Where? Gdje? 

Here Ovdje 

There Tamo 

Who? Ko? 

Why? Zašto? 

What? Šta? 

I have... A imam... 

I am... Ja sam… 

Signs 

Open Otvoreno Closed Zatvoreno 

Entrance Ulaz Exit Izlaz 

Push Guraj Pull Vuci 

No smoking Zabranjeno pušenje 

Numbers 

0 - nula 

1 - jedan 

2 - dva 

3 - tri 

2012 

15

16 wHere to stAy 

Budva has thousands of beds, creaking under the weight 

of Russian and other tourists in summer, but mainly used 

by conference guests in winter. 

Upmarket 

Aman Sveti Stefan J-2, Sveti Stefan bb, tel. +382 33 42 00 

00, fax +382 33 42 02 22, amansvetistefan@amanresorts. 

com, www.amanresorts.com. The jewel of Montenegro’s 

Adriatic coast and perhaps the most exquisite island in the entire 

Mediterranean (a bold statement to be sure, but one that we 

sincerely mean), some people are understandably disappointed 

when they discover that Sveti Stefan is actually a private resort 

island, which is no longer open to the public. However, for those 

who can afford to stay in one of the 50 extensively renovated and 

uniquely designed rooms, cottages or suites that now occupy the 

bulk of the island’s buildings, the experience is simply otherworldly. 

A further eight suites are also available at the nearby Villa Miločer 

on the mainland, which was formerly the summer residence of 

the royal family and the first of the two properties to open in 

2009. For those without bank balances large enough to cover 

even the modestly priced rooms (€750 per night, minimum three 

nights in July and August), take heart! You can still use the public 

beach located just opposite the island’s southeastern walls. 

PARIFLBKDCW 

Astoria B-4, Njegoševa 4, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 11 

10/+382 69 77 55 11, fax +382 33 45 12 15, budva@ 

astoriamontenegro.com, www.astoriamontenegro.com. 

The only boutique hotel in Budva’s well-preserved old town, 

Astoria is truly in a class of its own, exquisitely combining 

modern minimalist Mediterranean-influenced interior design 

with the original architectural elements of the centuries-old 

noble house in which it is located. The service is of course 

excellent, as is the restaurant, which opens perhaps the best 

Symbol key 

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted 

O Casino H Conference facilities 

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled 

R Internet L Guarded parking 

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms 

K Restaurant M Nearest metro station 

D Sauna C Swimming pool 

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection 

terrace in the city on the building’s rooftop overlooking the 

sea during the summer months. Booking well in advance is 

recommended, as the six rooms and six larger suites here 

are constantly in high demand. Q 12 rooms (singles €190- 

220, doubles €230-260, triples €300, suites €290-420 

from May - Sept, €95-120, €120-150, €170, €170-230 from 

Oct - April). PJAKW 

Avala A-4, Mediteranska 2, tel. +382 33 44 10 00, fax 

+382 33 44 15 26, reservations@avalaresort.com, www. 

avalaresort.com. Modern clashes with traditional where this 

huge hotel and spa resort meets Budva’s old town. Right on the 

beach beside the city walls, its large and elegant rooms look 

out on the Adriatic Sea or the mountains. Spacious and sophisticated, 

yet simple and peaceful. Q 297 rooms (singles €175- 

188, doubles €210-256, apartments €290-435 in July and Aug, 

€88-176, €112-224, €190-390 from Sept - May, Penthouse 

€3,500) 67 villas €288-448 in July and August, €176-392 from 

Sept - May. POHAUFLGKDCW 

Bella Vista H-2, Bečići bb, tel. +382 33 47 13 77/+382 

33 47 13 78, bellavista@t-com.me, www.bellavista.me. 

The name is not a misnomer, as most rooms here boast 

balconies with unobstructed sea views, and the only thing 

separating guest from the beach is some 90m of grass and 

trees. As the majority of accommodation is in the form of 

apartments and even the standard rooms have kitchenettes 

and ample space, this place really feels more like a residence 

than a classic hotel, making it a perfect choice for those seeking 

the privacy of the former with all of the advantages of the 

latter. Q 44 rooms and apartments (singles €69, doubles 

€94-98, apartments €138-248 in July and Aug, €43-52, €58- 

74, €81-196 in May-June and Sept-Oct). ALKW 

Iberostar Bellevue H-2, Bečići, tel. +382 33 42 51 00, fax 

+382 33 42 51 25, reservations@iberostar.co.me, www. 

iberostar.com. An all-inclusive package hotel beside Bečići 

beach, the Iberostar Bellevue ships in foreigners by the planeload 

to enjoy the beautiful gardens, swimming pools, and decent 

rooms. Many guests are happy to stay in the hotel perimeter for 

days, using the tennis and basketball courts to stay slim. Q 562 

rooms (doubles €182-228). PTHAUFLGKDC 

Maestral J-2, Pržno, Sveti Stefan, tel. +382 33 41 01 09, 

fax +382 33 41 01 90, hotel@maestral.info, www.maestral. 

info. Across the bay beside the old fishing village of Pržno, the 

luxury Maestral hotel offers fantastic views across to Budva. The 

recently renovated four-star wonder has stunning interiors as 

well as a brand new wing for even more exclusive guests. Expect 

spacious suites, lush gardens, a good beach out front and great 

views. Q 214 rooms (singles €135-251, doubles €180-662, 

apartments €432-1920, exclusive apartments €960-5000 from 

June - Aug, €79-129, €106-342, €248-1240, €650-5,000 from 

Sept - May). POTHAUFLGKDCW 



Hotel Listings Policy 

Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical 

order within that band. The price band refers 

to the rack rate for a double room. 

Mediteran H-2, Bečići, tel. +382 33 47 18 45/+382 

33 47 18 46, prodaja@hotelmediteran.info, www.hotelmediteran.info. 

A short walk from the beach, this huge 

four-star hotel complex is popular with both sun-worshippers 

and conference-goers. Beautiful and comfortable rooms, 

great service and an excellent wellness centre go a long way 

to make you feel like royalty. Top that with an amazing aqua 

park with indoor pool, and you are in for a great experience. 

Q 230 rooms (singles €156-190, doubles €184-224 in July 

and Aug, €74-106, €114-164 from Apr - June and Sept - Oct). 

PTHAFLGKDCW 

Montenegro H-2, Bečići, tel. +382 33 77 37 73, fax 

+382 33 45 12 39, reservations@montenegrostars.com, 

www.montenegrostars.com. Located right beside sandy 

Becici beach, this hotel is paradise for tourists coming to unwind 

and relax - though as the hotel offers a multitude of summery 

activities, you won’t be spending much time in the elegant 

rooms. The hotel staff is welcoming and hospitable. Find it 

two kilometres south of central Budva. Closed during winter. 

Q 172 rooms (singles €154-174, doubles €206-232, apartments 

€316-346 in July and Aug, €88-141, €118-188, €228- 

346 from Sept - June). POHAUFLGKDCW 

Queen of Montenegro H-2, Narodnog fronta bb, Bečići, 

tel. +382 33 66 26 62/+382 33 66 26 17, fax +382 

33 66 26 33, hotel@queenofmontenegro.com, www. 

queenofmontenegro.com. With a beautiful restaurant terrace 

and infinity pool overlooking the beach, well-designed 

interiors and efficient rooms and suites, the large Queen of 

Montenegro hotel is luxurious yet quite simple. For those 

who like to play there is an abundance of activities you can 

participate in, including gambling. Q 232 rooms (singles 

€120-159, doubles €168-210, apartments €198-423 in July 

and Aug, €74-102, €103-158, €118-297 from Sept - May). 

POTHAUFLGKDCW 

Not quite as famous as the Dancing Girl statue, the 

Golden Lady lamp is unarguably more functional, photo 

by B. Jovanović 

Residence Jadranski put bb, Miločer, tel. +382 33 42 71 

00, sales@hecmontenegro.com, www.residencemontenegro.com. 

We won’t lie, once we knew that this place had a 

rooftop swimming pool and bar with panoramic views of Pržno 

beach, it was love before first sight. Three of our favourite things 

(pools, views and alcohol) all in the same place, are you kidding 

us? However, this place doesn’t miss a beat below roof-level 

either, as the rooms and apartments are truly deserving of 

the label luxurious, the exceedingly professional members of 

staff speak English fluently and the location is unbeatable. Q 8 

rooms and 21 suites (singles €170, doubles €198, suites €190- 

298, deluxe suites €278-338). PTHALKCW 

Slovenska Plaža D-3, Trg Slobode 1, tel. +382 33 45 

16 54/+382 33 45 12 67, slplaza@t-com.me, www. 

hgbudvanskarivijera.com. A city within a city, this sprawling 

Mediterranean-style resort has nearly 1000 rooms and 

apartments (no, those three zeros are not a typo), with various 

shops, restaurants, bars, activity centres and much more 

contained within its labyrinth of identical-looking streets and 

alleyways - but only during the peak summer season. You can 

tell that this was formerly one of the top destinations on the 

coast for Yugoslavian holiday-makers, and while recent years 

have brought some much needed (and ongoing) renovations, 

it’s still fallen a bit behind the times. ALKCW 

Splendid (Splendid Conference & Spa Resort) H-2, 

Bečići bb, tel. +382 33 77 37 77/+382 33 77 47 74, 

fax +382 33 77 37 57, reservations@montenegrostars. 

com, www.montenegrostars.com. The brightest star of 

the Montenegro Stars chain completely dominates Becici 

Beach. It’s the most luxurious hotel in the country and has 

everything you may need, including special business, wedding 

and spa packages. With indoor and outdoor pools, a spa 

(www.splendidspa-montenegro.com), a conference centre, 

spacious halls, tastefully decorated rooms and several bars 

and restaurants (including a Japanese one), there’s no doubt 

that the Splendid is indeed splendid. Q 341 rooms (singles 

€288-436, doubles €384-582 in July and Aug, €160-315, 

€214-420 from Sept - May), apartments €600-830 in July 

and Aug, €350-650 from Setp - May, Penthouse €4,000, 

Presidential €7,000 per apartment. POTHAU 

FLKDCW 

Mid-range 

Admiral E-3, Jadranski Put bb, tel. +382 33 45 92 

63/+382 68 88 50 03, info@hoteladmiralbudva.com, 

www.hoteladmiralbudva.com. Although it’s often lumped 

together with some of the other hulking monstrosities along 

the Montenegrin coast, Admiral has aged better than most, 

and relatively recent renovations have made the place one 

of the more popular options for budget conscious travellers 

looking for a bit of luxury. Large flat screen TVs, an outdoor 

swimming pool and one of the friendliest staffs around all 

help its case. Q 32 rooms (singles €55, doubles €90 from 

June - Sept, €30, €50 from Oct - Apr). LKW 

Aquarius C-3, Zmajeva 8, tel. +382 33 40 27 16/+382 69 

91 91 91, aquariusbudva@gmail.com, www.hotelaquariusbudva.com. 

Originally a well-regarded family-run restaurant, 

over the past couple of decades the place has expanded to a 

full-fledged medium-sized hotel with some three dozen rooms 

and apartments. The two studio apartments are probably the 

best deal of the lot, as the huge covered terraces are nearly as 

large as the rooms themselves, while the regular apartments on 

the top floor may give sufferers of claustrophobia fits due to the 

low sloping ceilings. The restaurant is of course still open and 

still quite good. Q 33 rooms (€20-40 in July and Aug, €15-25 

from Sept - May, per person). LKW 



Blue Star D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 42 

31 00/+382 33 77 37 77, fax +382 33 42 31 12, 

rbluestar@montenegrostars.co.me, www.montenegrostars.com. 

The Blue Star is one of the smaller hotels 

the Montenegro Stars chain, but profiled as a business 

hotel and located just 500 metres from Budva’s Old Town 

it’s well-placed for both business and leisure trips. With 

comfortable rooms, friendly service and a lovely restaurant, 

it’s a quiet option compared to the larger hotels in town. Q 

23 rooms (singles €96-116, doubles €148-178 in July and 

August, €64-116, €98-178 from Sept - June), 2 apartments 

€99 in July and Aug, €79-99 from Sept - June per person. 

PHA6UGKW 

Fineso D-2, Mainski Put bb, tel. +382 33 45 41 

20/+382 69 02 24 38, fax +382 33 45 38 50, www. 

hotelfineso.com. A smallish family-run hotel housed in 

a new three-floor building smack in the centre of town, 

within walking distance of everywhere you need to go, all 

rooms have balconies, parking is always available and 

from what we’ve experienced the service is a notch or 

two above what you can expect at similarly priced hotels. 

Tennis players will also want to note that they can make 

arrangements for guests at some well-kept courts nearby. 

Q 17 rooms. LW 

Fontana B-3, Slovenska Obala 23, tel. +382 33 45 

21 53/+382 69 08 11 20, fontana.lekic@t-com. 

me. This narrow three-floor building offers nine cramped 

rooms, which from the looks of the place were built while 

Yugoslavia was still a unified country - although to be 

we’ve never confirmed this with the staff. But that’s not 

to say it’s completely without its charms. One person’s 

cramped is another person’s cosy, and the location in 

the green space separating the waterfront from the the 

newer part of town is undeniably prime. The service also 

generally gets good marks, as does the restaurant on 

the ground floor. Q 9 rooms (singles €40, doubles €60). 

ALKW 

Grbalj C-2, Trg Sunca bb, tel./fax +382 33 45 23 00, 

tel. +382 69 53 81 32, hotelgrbalj@t-com.me, www. 

hotelgrbalj.com. The family-run Grbalj has been welcoming 

guests to Budva and ensuring them a pleasurable stay for 

nearly two decades now. Located within walking distance of 

most places worth walking to, it’s still far enough away from 

the open-air bars and clubs that you can enjoy some peace 

and quiet and get a good night’s sleep if that’s what you’re 

after. There’s ample parking in back for guests and good 

restaurant on the ground floor. Q 18 rooms (singles €45, 

doubles €60, triples €90, apartments €120 in July & Aug, 

€35/€50/€75/€100 from Sept - June). LKW 

Kangaroo E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 86 53, 

fax +382 33 46 02 33, reservation@kangaroo.co.me, 

www.kangaroo.co.me. A classic ‚you get what you pay 

for’ hotel, which in this case is prime location location with 

free parking and rooms that are completely adequate. Don’t 

expect any frills and the service can be a bit - how should we 

put it? - unenthusiastic at times (especially for non-Serbian 

speakers), but in terms of value its not bad. Q 32 rooms 

(singles €32, doubles €64, triples €96). HLKW 

Max Prestige E/F-3, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 33 

45 83 30, fax +382 33 45 83 50, maxprestige@t-com. 

me, www.hotelmaxprestige.com. Although its name 

sounds like something that would be chosen by Homer 

Simpson, if we suppress our sarcastic instincts and look 

at things objectively, the place does definitely possess an 

above average level of prestige. Looking like something 

that would be more at home located on a secluded bluff 

overlooking the sea, its somewhat residential location is 

a bit odd, but once inside it does have an oasis-type feel 

to it. Large elegantly designed rooms, even larger suites 

(some with 2-floors), and a sprawling outdoor poll and 

lounge area remind you that your money has been wellspent. 

Q 11 rooms (singles €100, doubles €118 in July and 

August, €58-73, €78-98 from Sept - June), 8 apartments 

€69 in July and Aug, €49-59 from Sept - June per person. 

PTALKDCW 

Mena E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 93 

10/+382 69 02 76 32, hotelmena@t-com.me, www. 

hotelmena.com. A decent medium-sized hotel that gives you 

the impression that they genuinely care about making their 

guests feel comfortable, the rooms here are kept thoroughly 

tidy and everything seems to run how it should. Parking is 

available in an underground garage. Not the kind of place you’ll 

be gushing to your friends about back home, but you will most 

certainly have a pleasant stay. Q 20 rooms (doubles €53 

from June - Aug, €43 from Sept - May). ALKW 

Mogren B-4, Slovenska obala, tel. +382 33 45 

11 02/+382 33 40 15 12, fax +382 33 45 27 95, 

hotelmogren@t-com.me, www.mogrenhotel.com. If 

your main aim is to get a taste of what it was like to go on 

holiday in Yugoslavia, during simpler times when the world 

was divided into black and white, everyone had a job, celebrities 

were actually talented and everything was easier, 

then a night or three at Hotel Morgen is definitely in your 

cards. What we’re trying to say is this place is old. Some 

people view it as a romantic throwback, while others are 

inclined to less lofty assessments. We’ll let you decide. 

Q 49 rooms (singles €40-70, doubles €60-90, triples €90- 

135, apartments €80-140). HLKW 



Oaza B-3, Slovenska obala 27, tel. +382 33 45 

22 15/+382 69 02 47 56, fax +382 33 40 26 09, 

oazabudva@t-com.me, www.oaza.co.me. Taking its 

name from the peaceful green surroundings that somehow 

manage to keep it hidden despite being only metres from the 

promenade and main city beach, Oaza is a classic of the Montenegrin 

Riviera and equally recommendable for its location, 

service and overall ambience. Some rooms come with both 

a standard bathroom and a second one containing a jacuzzi, 

while we prefer staying in the larger studio apartments. Q 15 

rooms & apartments €15-40 per person. ALKW 

Odissey A-4, Jadranski Put bb, tel. +382 33 46 37 07/+382 

69 22 23 37, fax +382 33 46 37 09, info@hotelodisey. 

com, www.hotelodisey.com. A palatial modern structure, the 

Odisey (or Odissey as it is also sometimes spelled) looks oddly 

out of place on a thoroughly unexciting stretch of road leading 

from Budva to the airport. We spent a not insignificant amount 

of time trying to think of advantages to staying here rather than 

somewhere in or at least closer to the city, but this proved more 

difficult than we had imagined - which is not to say that the rooms 

are not spectacular or undercut the merits of having a casino on 

the premises. Q 18 rooms (doubles €70 in July and Aug, €50-60 

from Sept - June). ALBKW 

Oliva E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 94 29. 

Don’t come here expecting anything that could be properly 

described with the word modern, but this is a homey hotel 

if there every was one, as the proprietor Branko will go out 

of his way to make guests feel like at home. The expansive 

terrace out back is shaded by some perfectly mangled old 

olive trees, and is the best setting to sample some of the 

restaurant’s fine traditional cuisine. Rooms vary quite a bit, 

so make sure to ask what’s available. Q 15 rooms (doubles 

€70 in July and Aug, €58 in June and Sept). LKW 

Regina Elena E-3, 29th Novembra 20, tel. +382 33 45 

92 55/+382 68 11 77 77, hotelreginaelena1@gmail.com, 

www.reginaelena.me. One of the most underrated hotels in 

Budva, the Regina Elena has won our affection by virtue of its 

high ceilings (which we love), a large rooftop terrace and bar 

(where you can take your breakfast) and the crème de la crème: 

a small swimming pool on an even higher section of the roof, 

from where you can take in glorious views of the city, work on 

your tan, enjoy a cold beer and stay cool in the pool - all at the 

same time! And all this within easy walking distance of the 

beach for only €30 per person in the high season. Q 32 rooms 

(singles €40, doubles €60, in July and August, €22-40, €30-50 

from Sept - June), apartments (triples €95, quads €120 in July 

and Aug, €45-75, €48-90 from Sept - June). AKCW 

Šajo E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 46 02 43/+382 

33 46 02 45, fax +381 33 46 02 46, sajohotel@t-com. 

me, www.sajohotel.com. A modern business-class hotel 

with reasonable prices, Šajo wouldn’t be our first choice of 

accommodation in Budva, but you could do a lot worse. On the 

other hand, if you need a large conference room there’s one 

here on the top floor that’s recently been renovated. For those 

that appreciate having some extra space to stretch out, the 

apartments are a great value for only €10 more than standard 

doubles. When booking any room, make sure to request a sea 

view, as there’s no extra charge. Q 18 rooms (singles €113, 

doubles €142-152 in July and August, €77-106, €96-132 from 

Sept - June), 8 apartments €81 in July and Aug, €58-71 from 

Sept - June per person. PHFLGKDCW 

Hostels 

Camp Tipi Hostel A-4, Lastva Grabaljska, tel. +382 

69 55 48 27, camptipihostel@gmail.com, www.camptipihostel.com. 

Set in the grassy hills above the main road 

Budva-Tivat road and only 3km from the famed Jaz Beach, 

compared with the rest of the accommodation in and around 

Budva this camp (which also includes basic hostel accommodation) 

is in the middle of nowhere. Of course this is the 

main draw for guests, who come here to escape city life and 

explore a bit of the wild Montenegrin countryside. The aforementioned 

beach has some of the best swimming conditions 

on the coast, and the hospitable owner Ivo and his staff are 

more than happy to help with any arrangements you need. 

Only open from June till August. 

Mojo Budva C-3, Vojvođanska 3, tel. +382 69 71 19 

86, info@mojobudva.com, www.mojobudva.com. A hybrid 

hostel/budget hotel, solo travellers can book singles beds in 

the triple and 4-bed rooms, but it seems most guests come 

here for cheap private accommodation. If you are looking to 

socialise, there’s lots of communal space here, including a sun 

terrace, barbecue pit, inside lounge area and our favourite a 

hammock garden. It’s located very near to the massive new 

TQ Plaza shopping centre, but still seems to give some people 

fits finding it - check the map carefully when booking. 

Montenegro Hostel Budva B-4, Vuka Karadžića 12, Stari 

grad, tel. +382 69 03 97 51, montenegrohostel@gmail. 

com, www.montenegrohostel.com. Having opened the first 

proper hostels in Kotor, Podgorica and also here in Budva, the 

owners of this place know a thing or two about operating high 

quality backpacker and budget friendly accommodation. The 

location in the very centre of the old town couldn’t be better, and 

the all of the extras - including a huge common room on the top 

floor - give this place an edge over the competition. The en suite 

private rooms in a nearby building are some of the best value 

beds in Budva, and also let you take advantage of all the facilities 

and services in the main building. Q 5 rooms (1 double €30-50, 

1 triple €45-60, dorm beds €12-20). W 


Sun Hostel E-2, Ferona bb, tel. +382 69 76 92 12, 

budva.sunhostels@gmail.com, www.sunhostels.com. 

While we were first tempted to say that this wasn’t really 

a hostel in our book due to a lack of dorms - single, double 

and triple rooms are all they have - we humbly had to change 

our minds after finding a preponderance of evidence to the 

contrary. Aside from its Hostelling International membership, 

the large kitchen and common room, and the fact that you can 

book single beds in the triple rooms, the overall vibe here is 

decidedly backpacker-oriented. A bit tricky to find if you don’t 

know the town, it’s not as inconvenient as it first seems once 

you’re familiar with the surroundings. Q 24 rooms (singles 

€15-40, doubles €20-44, triples €27-60). 

Apartments 

Alexandra E-2, 20 Novembra bb, tel. +382 67 25 74 

06/+382 67 24 10 00, appalexandra@gmail.com, www. 

apartmani-alexandra.com. Set within a stone’s throw of 


wHere to stAy 

some great local grill restaurants, in the middle of Budva’s 

so-called ‚Hotel Street’, the nine studio apartments and 

one larger unit that sleeps up to eight people are basic but 

adequate for your typical beach holiday. All apartments come 

with a kitchen, air conditioning and a small cable TV, and must 

be rented for a minimum of one week during the peak of high 

season (ie 1 July - 20 August). Q 10 apartments (€40-145 

in July and Aug, €25-85 from Sept - May). L 

Bella B-4, Vrzdak 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 24 

39/+382 67 40 39 40. Four medium-sized apartments 

situated in a beautifully restored building just off a leafy green 

square in the old town. The most pleasant aspect has to be 

the cosy little terraces that are perfect for a morning coffee or 

an evening drink (although the lack of a kitchen definitely makes 

the former more difficult). Early birds and light sleepers may 

find the late night parties at the open air bars just outside the 

walls a minor inconvenience during the high season. Q 4 apartments 

(€60-90 in July & August, €40-60 September - June). 

2012 

23


Butua B-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. +382 33 40 20 26/+382 

33 40 20 27, www.apartmanibutua.com. When it was 

founded by an exiled Phoenician prince and his wife some 

2500 years ago it was called Butua, from which both the 

modern name is derived. However, the name is the only thing 

not modern about Batua Apartments. Set in the middle of 

the city, the modern five-floor complex contains spacious 

apartments, as well as single, double and triple rooms. In 

addition to all the standard amenities and excellent professional 

service, it is the only building in Budva that is officially 

registered as completely accessible for physically disabled 

persons. Q ULW 

Captain D-2, 13. Jula bb, tel. +382 67 58 75 87. Right in 

the city centre but still (mostly) surrounded by greenery, these 

apartments score highly for their convenient location, cleanliness 

and personal attentive staff and managers - although 

if you are staying out of season you should arrange an exact 

check-in time in advance, as the place is not full staffed. The 

rooms also range from tiny to extremely spacious, so choose 

carefully when booking. 

Contessa B-2, Maksima gorkog bb, tel. +382 33 45 12 

63/+382 68 86 87 77, www.contessabudva.me. Another 

excellent example of how apartments should be designed, 

furnished and operated. Located slightly up the hill to the west 

of downtown, the views are magnificent, the furnishings are 

of reasonably high quality and unobtrusive and the prices 

some of the best around. The building is also stunning from 

the outside and has a couple of large common terraces that 

are great for socialising at breakfast time or in the evening. 

Q 10 apartments (€48-86 in July & August, €35-59 in June 

& September, €25-50 October - May). Prices 30% higher if 

staying less than 3 nights. PAL 

daMonte B-2, Topliški put bb, tel. +382 33 40 30 

64/+382 67 66 96 85, apartmani@damonte.me, www. 

damonte.me. The apartments here are like a breath of fresh 

air - quite literally as they’re set at the base of the hill to the 

northwest of the city centre - when compared to many of 

the others in town that were blatantly just thrown together 

to make a quick profit. Although the website doesn’t boast 

of spacious, luxurious rooms (as many of their competitors 

falsely do), both terms apply here in spades. In short, this 

family-run property is easily one of the better accommodation 

options in Budva. W 

smjestaj, izleti, Invest Montenegro rent B-2, a Topliški car, Put bb, festivali, 

tel. +382 33 

45 56 42/+382 69 36 68 76, office@investmontenegro.com, 

www.investmontenegro.com. With dozens of 

apartments and other properties for both holiday and longer 

term rental in Budva and elsewhere along Montenegro’s 

breathtaking Mediterranean coast, Invest Montenegro is 

sure to have something for every budget and taste. Their 

rental units are careful selected to provide quality and value 

for money, thoroughly cleaned and serviced prior to your arrival. 

As their name suggests, these are also the people to 

talk to if you’re interested in investing in property anywhere 

in the country. 

Lux B-4, Vuka Karadžića 1, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 

43 54/+382 69 03 94 38, melita@t-com.me, www. 

luxapartman.com. This will probably sound a lot worse 

than we intend it to, but whoever chose the name of this 

place has a different understanding of the words ‚lux’, ‚luxury’ 

and ‚luxurious’ than we do, as none of those terms came to 

mind when we saw the place. On the plus side, the location 

just inside the old town walls is great, and the views of the 

harbour from the balcony of the second floor apartment are 

a boat-lovers dream. 

Pima B-2, Prešernova 3, tel. +382 67 55 83 24, www. 

pima.me. Offering both rooms and apartments, as well as 

friendly personal service both at check in and during your 

stay, this place really has the feel of a family-run hotel or 

guesthouse. There’s a pleasant enclosed garden in the back, 

with citrus trees and plenty of tables to sit at and relax in the 

shade. Book one of the two apartments upstairs (suitable for 

four or more people) if you’d like a terrace with a sea view. 

Saki F-2, IV Proleterske bb, tel. +382 33 45 85 

65/+382 67 36 80 65, sakiadrovic@yahoo.com, www. 

saki-apartmani.com. Located in the far north of town in the 

Lazi district, the premises include 14 apartments that sleep 

between two and six people in a modern four-floor building. 

The owner and host, Saki Andrović, is a friendly fellow that 

goes out of his way to make guests feel welcome and can 

arrange pretty much any activity or trip that you’re interested 

in - especially if it involves a trip on his fishing boat. The beach 

is only a 10 minute or so walk downhill, and a taxi back should 

only cost a few euros. If you decide to spend the evening in to 

play billiard, table tennis or just relax in the courtyard, dinner 

can be arranged for only €5 per person. Q 14 apartments 

(€25-90). LW 

Salus B-2, Nikole Tesle 13, tel. +382 33 45 18 43/+382 

69 22 16 21, salus@t-com.me, www.apartmanisalus. 

me. Salus offers a combination of fully-furnished rooms and 

apartments right in the heart of the city centre, some of which 

even have sea views. Each of the apartments has its own 

kitchen, and the larger 3-bedroom units can comfortably sleep 

up to nine people. While Budva is by no means a dangerous 

town, the building is under video surveillance for added security, 

and in case of water shortages it has its own reserve 

supply. Q 27 rooms and apartments. LW 


 

 

Hoteli 

Charter 

Izleti 

Privatni 

smještaj 

Rent a car 

Cetinjski put bb | 81000 Podgorica 

Tel./Fax: 00382 20 511 200


Vidikovac A-4, Vidikovac bb, tel. +382 33 45 18 

56/+382 69 17 28 37, vidikovac@mail.ru, www. 

vidikovac. me. Although we genuinely try to avoid hyperbole 

and unnecessarily inflating expectations whenever possible, 

it’s without hesitation that we implore you to stop what you’re 

doing right now and book a room here - even if you don’t have 

tickets to Montenegro yet, a stay here alone is worth a trip to 

Budva. Elegantly designed rooms, unbeatable views of the 

old town from large terraces, and free use of the swimming 

pool, jacuzzi and sauna, all at prices that would still be a good 

value if they were twice as high, set Vidikovac apart from its 

peers. Q 21 apartments (doubles €85, triples €105, quads 

€125 in July and Aug, €40-65, €45-80, €50-105 from Sept - 

May). LDCW 

For an highly developed resort town, Budva has a 

surprising amount of green space, photo by B. Jovanović 

Vila Spas A-4, Vidikovac bb, tel. +382 67 21 17 71, 

vilaspas.com@gmail.com, www.vilaspas.com. Perched 

on the hill overlooking Mogren Beach just off the road leading 

into Budva from the west, the apartments in this beautiful 

stone villa are a great value for those who don’t mind driving 

or catching a taxi into the centre. Minimally furnished with a 

touch of opulence here and there, while taking in the expansive 

sea views from the large terrace you’ll feel like royalty - or at 

least we did. Q 9 apartments (€85 from 15 June - 15 Sept, 

€70 during low season). PTLW 

Private apartments 

Bogdanović B-4, Petra I Petrovića 1, Stari grad, 

tel. +382 69 61 05 32/+381 63 7 64 19 11, mabramovic@live.com. 

W 

Bojana C-1, Prve Proleterske 15, tel. +382 33 45 

66 68/+382 67 25 12 44, vilabojana@yahoo.com, 

www.vila-bojana.com. Q €36-38 in July and August, 

€28-30 from September-May. LKCW 

Bujković D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 29 

29/+382 67 25 74 09, altada@t-com.me. L 

Kovačević D/E-3, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 

86 42/+382 67 33 19 68, sandjok@t-com.me. L 

Miković B-2, Svetostefanska 1, tel. +382 33 45 28 

00/+382 67 81 36 88, jelena452800@yahoo.com, 

www.vilamikovic.com. L 

Oregon D/E-3, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 

86 02/+382 69 60 47 08, www.oregon.montenegro.com. 

Perović E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 69 36 92 

15, vilaperovic@gmail.com. LCW 

Stević E-1, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 90 

49/+382 69 65 06 71, astevic10@yahoo.com. L 

Suđić B-3, 13. Jula 9, tel. +382 33 45 29 62/+382 

69 59 64 28, sssudjic@t-com.me. LW 

Svetionik J-2, Rafailovići bb, tel. +382 33 40 40 

32/+382 69 60 83 08, info@apartmanisvetionik.com, 

www.apartmanisvetionik.com. Q Apartments €100- 

120 in July and Aug, €40-80 from Sept - May. ALW 

Tatjana D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 72 

81/+382 69 48 80 77, info@hoteltatjana.com, 

www.hoteltatjana.com. Q 34 apartments, €15-20 

per person. LCW 

Tomy D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 32 

88/+382 67 85 24 42, vilatomy@t-com.me. LW 

Velžon D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 45 

00/+382 69 32 32 34, vilavelzon@live.com. LW 

Vila Balkan B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 40 35 

64, info@vilabalkan.me, www.vilabalkan.me. Q 5 

apartments. W 

Villa Centar D-2, Mainski put 9, tel. +382 33 45 

45 19/+382 69 54 94 88, www.vilacentar.com. 9 

rooms and apartments. LW 


Adriatic B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 33 45 18 02. 

Set a bit away from the action on the promenade but unfortunately 

not away from the traffic, Adriatica boasts a large 

terrace and an even larger selection of pizzas. The menu offers 

up choices of pasta, fish and meat dishes as well, but the 

pizzas are the main draw here, which you can also take away 

or have delivered. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. ABW 

Astoria B-4, Njegoševa 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 

11 10, www.astoriamontenegro.com. A trendy restaurant 

situated in, and on top of, the hotel of the same name, if the 

breathtaking view of the sea and old town from the rooftop 

terrace is what brings people here for the first time, it’s the 

impeccably prepared and presented cuisine that keeps 

them coming back again and again. The very wide-ranging 

selection of main dishes (from Indonesian and Thai options 

to Mediterranean and Montenegrin to a gourmet take an 

classic fish and chips) is complimented by some delectable 

starters, absolutely heavenly desserts and a lengthy wine 

list. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW 

Babaluu C-3, Mediteranska bb (TQ Plaza), tel. +382 69 

04 04 40, babaluubd@gmail.com. All other factors aside, 

this is easily the most interesting place we have ever ordered 

pasta. The menu contains an impressive matrix of different 

ingredients and spices, encouraging diners to choose their 

own combinations. Of course there are also suggestions for 

those not feeling up to the pressure. Located on the ground 

floor of the new TQ Centre, Babaluu also serves as a popular 

café-cum-trendy bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ALBW 

Bruno A-4, Mediteranska 2, tel. +382 33 44 13 98, 

bruno@avalaresort.com, www.avalaresort.com. The 

newly opened restaurant at Avala Resort & Villas has already 

earned its place on any credible shortlist of the best restaurants 

in Montenegro - and would reside near the top if we had 

any say in the matter. Approaching perfection in every aspect of 

the dining experience, Bruno offers superlative cuisine, service 

and ambience. We usually opt for one of the daily specials and 

matching wines, as it saves us from having to choose from so 

many tempting seasonal dishes on the à la carte menu, but by 

all means have a go if you feel up for it. ALW 

City Club C-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 33 45 24 

46/+382 67 20 32 53, cityclub@hotmail.com. Located 

opposite TQ Plaza and one of the city’s main taxi ranks 

[Editor’s note: see the Getting Around section for our tips 

on how not to get ripped off by Budva’s taxi drivers], this 

place bakes some half-decent pizza, but the real draw here 

is the large terrace where diners can take in the various 

happenings at the busy crossroads. They also offer nargilas 

(aka water pipes or hookahs), for those looking to puff on 

some sweet tasting tobacco after (or in lieu of) their meal. 

Q Open: 07:00-02:00 from June-August, 07:00-01:00 from 

September-May. ABW 

D & R E-4, Jadranski put bb. If you’re staying in the east 

part of the city and looking for a cheaper alternative to the 

waterfront establishments, head to the roundabout leading 

out of town towards Bečići. Of the handful of places situated 

there, D & R seems the most popular or is at least the largest. 

Settle into the softly lit cavernous interior or choose 

a roadside table on the sprawling terrace. In the summer, 

the smells from the open grill can be hard to resist. QOpen 

07:00 - 02:00. LBW 

Dona Kod Nikole B-3, Gradska Marina, tel. +381 33 

45 15 31. A little sea-worn and rough around the edges, 

this place never seems to attract the same kind of crowds 

that a couple of its neighbours do. However, we find it to be 


restAurAnts 

Symbol key 

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted 

E Live music S Take away 

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled 

G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking 

O Casino M Nearest station 

R Internet 6 Animal friendly 

V Home Delivery 

squarely on the good side of charming, and have always 

been a bit put off by elbow room only situations. As for the 

food, you can do (much) worse elsewhere, but with so many 

similar restaurants vying for your euros it really does often 

come down to how you feel about the atmosphere. QOpen 

08:00 - 24:00. AB 

Fratello E-3, 29. Novembra bb, tel. +382 (0)68 20 30 

78 The hands down winner of our unofficial ‚Restaurant 

that is so good we eat there all the time but still feel a little 

guilty writing about it because then it won’t be our secret 

anymore’ Award is the unassuming shack called Fratello 

next to a carwash on the main ring road. Simple, tasty and 

inexpensive grilled dishes coupled with friendly service and 

an owner who makes patrons’ satisfaction his personal business, 

adds up to an experience that is hard to beat. There’s 

even a covered terrace down the stairs in the back. QOpen 

07:00 - 24:00. VBS 

If your table were any closer to the sea, you’d be getting 

wet! 

2012 

27

28 restAurAnts 

Porto Montenegro 

one 

The perfect place for lounging over cocktails 

with spectacular views at the foot of Jetty 

One with the private dining area and wine 

tasting room. Porto Montenegro Village - 

Teuta, Tivat, jettyone.com, tel.: +382 (32) 

661 035. 

Al Posto giusto 

Classic Adriatic – Mediterranean cuisine with 

contemporary décor and wood-fired oven 

Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, harmonyoftaste.com, 

tel.: +382 (0) 69 146 046 

Mitsu sushi restAurAnt 

Authentic Japanese cuisine and sushi 

Porto Montenegro Village - Milena, http:// 

www.facebook.com/mitsurestaurant, tel.: 

067626973 


Garden Caffe B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 33 45 

20 90/+382 67 59 06 59, rvadjon@t-com.me, www. 

garden-budva.com. Low prices, good pizza, cold beer and 

live music - what’s not to like? The superb setting under the 

trees is probably the biggest draw, which by your second 

drink will have you forgetting that you’re only a minute’s walk 

from both the beach and old town. The music is a bit more 

mellow during the day, but usually switches over to rock in 

the evenings, attracting a crowd more interested in beer 

than pizza. If you’re up early they also do fine breakfasts, 

and discounts are offered on Sundays. QOpen 07:30 - 

01:00. AEBW 

Grill Bašta Lim E-4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 

69 02 39 57/+382 69 08 47 36. Another fine beachside 

dining option along with its twin next-door neighbour 

Pivnica Nik Gold (which shares south wing of the same 

building), grill is quite literally the name of the game here, 

as evidenced by the large open-air barbecue on the terrace. 

Come straight from the beach or after a long day of 

sightseeing, but just make sure to come hungry. QOpen 

07:00 - 02:00. ABW 

Hemingway B-4, Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45 

24 00. Named for one of our favourite personalities, if not 

writers, of the 20th century, this café restaurant just outside 

the old town already had our favour before we ever saw 

the place, but luckily there’s a lot to like here. The terrace 

is a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast in the morning or a 

drink in the evening (preferably a daiquiri), and the menu is 

reassuringly to the point - with chicken in dill sauce and chili 

beef being two of the standouts. For a bit of historical kitsch, 

look up for the photo of El Papa greeting a young upstart 

Cuban politician called Fidel Castro. Q Open June-Sept 

08:00-01:00, Oct-May 08:00-23:00. ABW 

Hong Kong B-4, Vuka Karadžića 1, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 33 45 27 25. Amazingly, this Chinese restaurant 

started operating in Budva with staff from Hong Kong back 

in 1991, and it still happily serves food that is as authentic 

as it gets in the Balkans. With a terrace beneath the vines 

and overlooked by the city walls, it’s a good place for hungry 

tourists to try the stir-fries, noodles and more. QOpen 

11:00 - 24:00. ABS 

Jadran B-3, Slovenska Obala 10, tel. +382 33 45 10 

28/+382 69 03 01 80. With all the competition around 

it should say something that this place consistently ranks 

as or among the best restaurants around, but that said, 

don’t blame us if you find that your expectations were too 

high. Other than the reputation, we’d be hard-pressed to tell 

you what exactly it is that sets this place apart. The fish is 

fresh, the service professional and prompt and the ambience 

that of your classic seaside restaurant. We guess there’s 

something to be said for knowing the basics and doing them 

well. Q Open June-August 08:00-01:00, September-May 

08:00-01:00. ABW 

Juice Bar B-4, Vranjak 13, Stai grad, tel. +382 33 

45 70 23, juicebar@juicebar.me, www.juicebar.me. 

Perhaps it’s the bright orange polo shirts that the staff 

wear as well as the matching seat cushions and logotype, 

but this place makes us feel healthier just thinking about 

it. The menu is comprised of a dozen of so different fruit 

smoothies, fresh meal-size salads and some other light 

snacks, which can be enjoyed in the small (but heavily trafficked 

by pedestrians) square outside the Budva Museum 

in the old town. They also make all of their own products, 

including some absolutely delicious sun-dried tomato bread. 

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. ABW 



Konoba Demižana B-4, Slovenska Obala 3, tel. +382 

33 45 50 28. If the seemingly countless restaurants along 

Budva’s promenade strike you as being much of a muchness 

(an impression that would not be entirely unwarranted), rest 

assured that this inconspicuous konoba hidden behind a leafy 

terrace is not only a cut above the others, but also generally 

considered one of the better restaurants on the coast - which 

explains why mini-motorcades of diplomatic vehicles from 

Podgorica parked outside are not an uncommon sight. Aside 

from the ambience, exquisitely prepared fish and seafood is 

what attracts the refined masses here, and reservations are 

all but required. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AB 

Konoba Feral B-4, Trg palmi bb, Stari Grad, tel. +382 

69 56 02 32. This unpretentious place in the old town 

offers a an excellent selection of fish and seafood dishes 

in a homey atmosphere. Inside the walls are covered with 

antique bric-a-brac and an eclectic collection of modern art 

(which is all for sale, with the proceeds going to the Orthodox 

church), while during the summer months the terrace outside 

is completely immersed under a sea of ivy and fishnets. A 

sign at the door lists the specials of the day. QOpen 11:00 

- 01:00. ABW 

Konoba Galeb B-4, Vrzdak 11, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 

45 65 46/+382 69 03 79 48. We’re not sure how much it 

helps customers with their selection, but we were quite fond 

of the poster by the door depicting all of the fish from the 

Adriatic. Opened in 1966, Galeb is one of the best known 

restaurants in the old town, and a top choice for lovers of all 

food originating from the aforementioned sea. The 1st floor 

terrace offers some much appreciated breathing room from 

the bustling foot traffic on the street below, while the downstairs 

dining area has its own ambience below the low wooden 

beam ceiling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. ABW 

Konoba Knez B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 47 50 

25/+382 68 04 06 05. A bit on the eccentric side and all 

the better for it, this is your classic one-man band type of 

establishment, where the owner will welcome you as if you’re 

an old friend and then prepare you a traditional home-cooked 

meal at the partially open-kitchen - all the while plying you 

with local beer and schnapps. By the time you leave you’ll feel 

like a member of the family. However, reservations are recommended, 

as there are a total of six tables - three inside and 

three outside in a small arched passageway. Q Open: June- 

August 12:00-01:00, September-May 12:00-23:00 AB 

Konoba Stari Grad B-4, Njegoševa bb, Stari Grad, tel. 

+382 63 22 54 03, info@konobastarigrad.me, www. 

konobastarigrad.me. An altogether classier affair than 

most everything else in the old town (and the rest of Budva 

for that matter), there’s a lot to like here: low wooden ceilings, 

exposed brick walls and black and photos of old Budva on the 

walls, the ambience really can’t be beat - they also have a 

covered terrace on the beach if you’d like to eat outside. The 

menu weighs more than our laptop, and all that girth is put 

to good use, with many seafood specialities that you won’t 

see elsewhere. And to top it all off there’s live music every 

night. All in all, one of our favourites. Q Open June-August 

11:00-00:00, September-May 11:00-23:00. AW 

Kužina E-2, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 33 45 94 

80/+382 68 66 66 93, kuzinabudva@gmail.com. With food 

this good, Kužina knew that it could open a restaurant well outside 

the tourist centre of the town and still have patrons make 

the effort to find the place - ample free parking always helps 

of course. Like its counterpart in the capital, Kužina combines 

traditional cuisine and aesthetics (wooden bench seating with 

red and white checkered tablecloths) with modern design and 

excellent service. Grab a seat on one of their two terraces and 

enjoy a draught Nikšićko while your selection of meat is grilled a 

few metres away. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. ALB 

Fast Food 

Bocconcino B-4, Stari grad. Of all the takeaway pizza 

places in the old town, this is probably our favourite - although 

we can’t decide if that’s despite or because of its 

goofy sunglasses wearing cartoon pizza logo. Serving up 

slices from huge 50cm thin crusts pies as well as tasty flat 

bread sandwiches that are also toasted in the pizza oven, 

rest assured that your €2 will be well-spent here. QOpen 

08:00 - 01:00. 

Maradona 10 B-4, Stari grad. Taking its name from a 

stout Argentinian footballer who scored his most famous 

goal with his hand [editor’s note: yes, the writer is an unabashed 

Pele supporter], our instinct was to be highly critical 

of this place and make at least one joke that included 

the word ‚cocaine’, but you could do worse than the pizza 

slices, sandwiches, and sweet and savoury crepes on 

offer here - especially if you’ve spent the night drinking at 

nearby Casper Republica. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. 

Promenade Food Stalls C-3, Slovenska obala. If 

you’re not cooking for yourself, by far the cheapest place 

to fill up your stomach in Budva is at one of the many fast 

food stands that congregate on the promenade between 

the post office and the beach. Burgers, burek, pizza and 

kebaps (or gyros as they’re called) are the standard fare 

of choice, and most also do sweet crepes for dessert. An 

even better way to satisfy your sweet tooth during the 

summer, is at one of the nearby ice cream stands. 


La Bocca D-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 33 45 

14 23, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Only just opened 

as we were preparing the guide for print, the early reviews 

have been roundly favourable and it looks likely that La 

Bocca will become one of the dining options of choice on 

this part of the beach. None of this should come as any 

surprise, as the owners are the same team behind the 

Hotel Astoria and its fabulous restaurant in the old town. 

QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW 

Lord E-3, 29. Novembra 10, tel. +382 69 33 14 02. Far 

removed from the action along the waterfront, we happened 

upon this nondescript (and bizarrely named) place entirely 

by chance several years ago, but have been coming here 

ever since. The owner Vule, an exceedingly sociable native 

of Podgorica who has spent some three decades in the restaurant 

business, may not speak much English, but makes 

himself known regardless (often with the help of some complimentary 

homemade rakija). The house speciality is slow 

roasting full pigs, sheep and seemingly anything else with four 

legs - groups should order their animal of choice one day in 

advance, and Vule will collect it from a local farmer. A highly 

recommendable experience. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. A 

Mona Lisa B-4, Trg Palmi bb, Stari Grad, tel. +382 

69 33 13 27. Modern, dark and moody with a couple of 

dour Mona Lisa portraits watching over the place, it took 

us a while to figure out if it was a café, bar or restaurant 

- mainly because it’s all three. Come with your laptop during 

the day for coffee and free WiFi, peruse the lengthy 

menu around dinner time, or drop by at night for a few 

drinks on the large covered terrace outside. Alternatively, 

there’s a breakfast menu, drinks are served all day and 

the WiFi is still free at night - you get the idea. QOpen 

09:00 - 00:00. ABW 


restAurAnts 

Oaza B-3, Slovenska obala 27, tel. +382 33 45 22 

15/+382 69 02 47 56, oazabudva@t-com.me, www. 

oaza.co.me. Set amongst a leafy patch of trees and 

small canal a hundred metres or so from the beach, this 

place indeed feels like an oasis. A family-run establishment 

with decades of experience, the service is friendly 

and personable, with a menu focussed on fish and other 

seafood. It’s a popular venue for locals to gather for family 

reunions, receptions and other celebrations - which is 

always a good sign - and in the summer they set up a grill 

outside. Try the homemade ice cream for dessert. QOpen 

08:00 - 23:00. ABW 

Obala J-2, Bečićka plaža 25, Rafailovići, tel. +382 

33 47 10 45/+386 33 47 10 54, www.hotelobala. 

me. One of several restaurants along the pedestrian-only 

promenade in Rafailovići, it’s a fine place to grab a bite 

close to the beach - especially if you manage to get a table 

outside in the shade under a large pine tree. For those 

watching their wallet, they even offer very budget-friendly 

set lunch and dinner specials from only €5. The owners 

also have a half-dozen or so different accommodation 

options in the area, including a decent hotel above the 

restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. ABW 

Old Fisherman’s Pub B-4, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. 

+382 69 48 24 25. Called the Old Fisherman’s Pub for 

a reason, as you can find patrons inside lingering over a 

pint at most times of the day, it’s also a full restaurant 

that specialises in pizzas and grilled meat dishes - with 

the latter prepared in front of you on the terrace, much to 

the the delight of your eyes and nose. You can’t miss the 

brightly painted tables and benches on the terrace at the 

corner of the harbour just outside the old town. QOpen 

07:00 - 24:00. ABW 

2012 

31


Olimp B-3, Slovenska Beach, tel. +382 33 45 16 

29/+382 69 33 35 95, olimpia-r@t-com.me, www. 

en.restoranolimp-budva.com. If it’s not the newest of the 

clutch of restaurants along the promenade between the 

beach and old town, it at least looks to be. There’s plenty of 

seating arranged around a pleasant garden, but we prefer to 

sit at one of the tables along the rocky shore just centimetres 

from the water. The menu is more limited than most, with lots 

of seafood and a few grilled meat dishes to choose from, but 

we find this an advantage rather than the opposite. QOpen 

08:00 - 24:00. ABW 

O Sole Mio B-3/4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 69 89 14 

04. Its popularity is largely inexplicable to us, but what do we know? 

It’s not like we write travel guides for a living - oh, wait.... We do admit 

that the pizzas are some of the biggest around, although they are 

priced accordingly, and if you need seating for three-hundred people 

or more at short notice this may be your best bet. On the plus side, 

it is a fine place for a drink and some people watching during the 

evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AVBW 

Pablo Picasso B-4, Slovenska obala 13, tel. +382 21 88 

38. Formerly located inside the old town, Picasso’s new home 

is on the Slovenska Obala just after Hemingway - why this small 

stretch of pavement in Budva attracts such famous names, we’re 

honestly not sure. The pizzas and sandwiches here come quite 

highly recommended by locals, but it seems unforgiveable that 

of all the paintings on the walls, none looked to be by the famous 

Spaniard. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AB 

Parma E-1, Mainski put 70, tel. +382 67 57 37 33, parma. 

dapcevic@gmail.com. We only found this place after dropping 

off our car for service at the garage next door, which almost made 

up for the €60 we paid for a new spare tyre. Most likely the cheapest 

grill in town, if you know of anywhere that beats Parma’s 750g 

mixed plate for only €7.90 drop us a line. They also have at least 

one friendly English-speaking waiter, and if you’re staying in they 

have reliable delivery. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AB 

Perla B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 68 80 80 80, 

info@perlabudva.com, www.perlabudva.com. Definitely 

one of Budva’s top destinations for the stylish jet set since its 

auspicious opening on New Year’s Eve 2009, in addition to be 

a popular lounge bar and concert venue on two levels, there’s 

also a vastly underrated kitchen that turns out a mouthwatering 

selection of gourmet international and Montenegrin dishes. 

The curved wooden and glass façade is impossible to miss at 

the roundabout just outside the promenade’s main entrance. 

QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW 

Pivnica Nik Gold D/E-4, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 

68 50 77 02, restoran.pivnica.nikgold@gmail.com, www. 

pivnicanikgold.me. Perhaps our favourite of Budva’s beachside 

restaurants, although we couldn’t find the phrase anywhere on 

the menu this is a classic surf n’ turf joint if there ever was one, 

with a menu so heavy it could easily be used to club a fish or put 

down a cow - not that such a need would ever arise. While it’s the 

kind of establishment where you’ll feel comfortable dining in your 

swimwear, be aware that this will make it more difficult to hide 

the inevitable bulge you’ll have after finishing your meal. QOpen 

08:00 - 01:00. €8-25. ABW 

Pizzeria Lav B-4, Iva Mikovića 16, Stari grad, tel. +382 68 

53 20 02. Hidden down a tiny alleyway around the corner from the 

main entrance to the old town, while the pizzas are better than you’d 

be led to believe from the weather-worn sign out front, the same 

sign’s proclamation that they are the best pizza in the city is also 

probably a bit of a stretch. A seating area in the back in covered by 

a roof of blue plastic sheeting, which will keeps you dry and cool, but 

also adds some eerie lighting. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. 



restAurAnts 

2012 

33


Porto B-4, Slovenska obala, tel. +382 68 12 13 

14/+382 69 02 58 50, www.restoranporto.com. Of 

all the waterfront restaurants along the harbour (and there 

are many), Porto is easily the most popular, with a steady 

stream of customers even in the low season and nary a 

free table during summer months. The menu doesn’t offer 

any surprises, but everything it includes is well-prepared, 

the prices are reasonable, the wine list extensive and the 

service generally gets high marks. Sometimes following 

the crowds can lead unsuspecting visitors astray, but that 

is fortunately not the case here. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. 

AB 

Porto Pizana B-4, Marina Budva, tel. +382 68 71 88 

38, restoran.pizana@gmail.com. With an unbeatable 

location overlooking the yachts in the harbour and seriouslooking 

wooden exterior, one’s first impression of this place 

is likely to be of an upscale formal dining experience. While 

we can’t say that this is entirely incorrect, it does have a 

quirky edge to it, with décor that includes lamps shaped like 

women, snakeskin embellishments, faux Greek sculptures 

and multi-coloured chandeliers. Of course at the end of the 

day it’s the food that counts, and everything here is excellent, 

with one of the most extensive menus in Budva. QOpen 

08:00 - 01:00. ABW 

Rabello E-3, Podkošljun bb, tel. +382 67 35 55 55. 

This jack of all trades may not excel at any one thing, but its 

location on one of the town’s busier roundabouts gives you 

a front row seat to witness Montenegrin driving etiquette 

in all its glory. The menu contains pizza, pasta and other 

standard international fare, but we recommend stopping 

by in the morning for breakfast or the evening for an early 

drink. Q Open June-August 07:00-01:00, September-May 

07:00-24:00. ABW 

Sambra B-4, Trg Palmi, Iva Mikovića 10, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 33 45 13 08, sambra@t-com.me, www.pizzeriasambra.com. 

Another restaurant that claims to have the best pizza 

in town, while we can neither deny nor confirm this assertion, 

the place does have a charming little terrace located on the 

aptly named Palm Square. Opened in 1989, it’s also officially the 

longest running Italian restaurant in Budva, with pizza comprising 

only a small percentage of its vast offering, which ranges from 

pasta and speciality salads to a handful of traditional dishes and 

some breakfast options. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. AB 

San Marino B-3, Slovenska obala 21, tel. +382 33 45 

29 60. We’re not sure if this place is technically named after 

the tiny European city state, but at peak hours it may have 

just about as many people. We exaggerate only slightly as the 

terrace does have room for some 150 patrons (with another 

80 seats inside), many of whom come for the live music. Italian 

and Mediterranean standards populate the menu here, and over 

the years we’ve grown quite fond of the seafood paella for two. 

Q Open: 08:00-01:00 from June-August, 09:00-23:00 from 

September-May. AB 

Shanghai B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 63 22 54 01, www. 

kineskirestoran.me. If you’re looking for a break from the heaping 

platters of grilled meat and fish or the occasional pizza that 

dominate most menus in Budva, perhaps some crunchy spring 

rolls, a bowl of hot and sour soup, and a steaming plate of spicy 

Szechuan beef is the answer - or at least it is for us from time to 

time. Follow your nose to the covered terrace up the stairs past 

the entrance to the Modern Gallery. Q Open: 11:00-24:00 from 

June-August, 11:00-23:00 September-May. ABW 

Sky Light B-4, Trg Bazilike bb, Stari grad, tel. +382 

69 03 79 48. With seating set up along the edge of the 

overgrown ruins in front of the citadel, a trip to Sky Light 


will not only satiate your hunger, but also remind of you of 

Budva’s ancient past. The menu consists of fairly standard 

pizza and pasta dishes, and it seems more often then not 

customers here are interested in a coffee or a cocktail than 

a full meal. In case of bad weather keep your sunglasses 

on, as the small interior is painted a blinding blue. QOpen 

08:00 - 24:00. AB 

Tropico C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 02 58 

75/+382 69 43 42 91, www.tropico-budva.com. It would 

be easy to lump Tropico in with the countless other beachside 

restaurants, but the management here does seem to 

genuinely put in more effort than most. Of course if we try 

to think of some concrete examples to support this claim we 

come up empty, but that’s just the feeling we get when we eat 

here. The menu covers just about everything, but we prefer 

the grilled dishes to the seafood, pasta and pizzas. QOpen 

08:00 - 01:00. ABW 

Zeleni Gaj C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 25 

95 15. One of several waterfront restaurants whose tables 

spill out onto the beach, Zeleni Gaj is distinguished by the 

grove of trees providing a bit of additional protection against 

the summer sun, and its proximity to a children’s playground 

located under said trees. The wine list is perhaps the most 

aesthetically pleasing in town, with small flags denoting the 

country of origin, and liberal dollops of the house tartar sauce 

make everything you order taste better. Q Open June-Sept 

08:00-02:00, Oct-May 09:00-23:00. PGBS 

Zlatibor E-2, Velji Vinogradi 23, tel. +382 33 45 95 

12/+382 67 61 01 40, zlatiborbd@t-com.me. Another 

quality dining option that is somewhat hidden away in a 

mostly residential district, Zlatibor strikes us as something 

of a sheltered oasis in a proverbial urban jungle. Open only 


restAurAnts 

during the warmer months, the restaurant has a deal with 

a local fisherman to keep its supply of fresh fish truly fresh - 

as you can see for yourself in the iced display case near the 

entrance. Several rooms are also available for rent upstairs. 

Q Open June-August 08:00-24:00, September-May 10:00- 

22:00. AB 

Around Budva 

Aleksandar J-2, Bečićka plaža, Rafailovići, tel. +382 

33 47 15 55/+382 67 60 02 17, restoranaleksandar. 

klikovac@t-com.me. With the opening of Aleksandar to 

start the 2012 season, the waterfront in Rafailovići finally 

has an exquisite 5-star restaurant to call its own. While 

seated at the bright airy terrace, you can practically feel the 

waves of the Mediterranean crashing before you, and the 

ambience of the seaside setting carries over into the sophisticated 

menu as well, which is of course complimented 

by one of the most complete wine lists on the coast. All 

in all Aleksandar offer elegant dining that few others can 

match. QOpen 11:00 - 00:00. ABW 

Tri Ribara J-2, Bečićka 37, Rafailovići, tel. +382 33 

47 10 50, 3ribara@t-com.me, www.triribara.com. The 

owners’ families personally catch the fish served in this 

famed local seafood restaurant. For over 30 years the 

rustic “Three Fishermen”, in a basic space decorated with 

seafaring memorabilia, has been a much loved destination 

for people across the country. The family also runs the La 

Mirage café by the beach. A little out of the way in the fishing 

village of Rafailovići, at the far end of Bečići beach, but 

well worth the trip. Q Open June-September 12:00-24:00, 

October-May 12:00-23:00. GB 

2012 

35

36 CAFés 

Black Iris Café B/C-3, Mediteranska bb, TQ Plaza, 

tel. +382 78 11 95 30. Located on the first floor of the TQ 

Plaza, if you’re looking for a place to enjoy the match with 

air conditioning and relative peace and quiet this could be 

your huckleberry. It’s also a fine place to rest your weary 

legs during a longer shopping binge in the mall. Q Open 

July and Aug 07:00-00:00, from Sept - June 07:00-23:00. 

AW 

Horošo (Xорошо) B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 69 

59 76 66/+382 69 66 36 33. Taking its name from the 

Russian word for ‚good’ or ‚fine’ and spelt only in Cyrillic, to 

find the place look for the big red and yellow X! logo through 

the park during the day, or listen for live music and crowds 

murmuring over cocktails at night. On a scorching summer 

day, nothing helps to beat the heat like the eponymous house 

drink - a non-alcoholic mix of lemon and soda water. QOpen 

08:00 - 01:00. AEBW 

Moto Club BU-2 E-4, Jadranski put bb (Hotel 

Park), tel. +382 69 20 42 05. A surprisingly modern 

and tidy affair that straddles the line between café and 

bar, any motorcyclists that frequent the place are more 

likely to own a Ducati than a Harley - although with pints 

of draught Nikšićko coming in at only €1.60 each even 

the moped set can afford to drink away an afternoon. 

QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW 

Mozart B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 33 45 17 12, 

vuckovic@t-com.me, www.cafferestaurantmozart.com. 

One of several cafés with row upon row of tables and chairs 

on the square just outside the main gate to the old town, 

Mozart also also boasts a full restaurant menu, although 

most people coming here for lunch choose to sit at one of 

the more intimate tables in an alleyway just inside the walls. 

We usually opt for one of their heaping meal-sized salads 

followed by a Snickers crepe (Twix, Kinder and Bounty are 

also available), but they also do some of the best cakes in 

Budva. Q Open June-September 08:30-02:00, October-May 

08:00-01:00. AGBSW 

Plaža Café B-4, Old Town Beach. Once the only option for a 

drink on the old town beach, the venerable Plaža now has some 

stiff competition. To its benefit it does have slightly lower prices 

than its more upscale neighbours (with ‘upscale’ being a relative 

term, as they all offer chairs on the same sand), and also 

offers the lounge chairs for those looking for the true beach e 

xperience. 


the Club house 

Aussie inspired laid-back watering hole with 

extensive music and cocktail list. Porto Montenegro 

Village - Ozana, Tivat, theclubhouse. 

me, tel.: +382 (0)67 626 973 

Puro beACh Pool&bAr 

Luxurious lounge and restaurant featuring a 

central Olympic sized pool cantilevered over 

the Bay with unparalleled views, music and 

atmosphere. Porto Montenegro Village - Jetty 

3 /Lido Mar, Tivat, purobeach.com, tel.: +382 

(0)32 660 970 


Cider with fresh crisp natural taste 

Somersby once made 

ice a hot commodity

38 nigHtliFe 

Not having much competition from anywhere else in the 

country to begin with (we’re especially looking at you 

Podgorica!), during the summer months Budva is the 

unequivocal nightlife capital not only of Montenegro, 

but pretty much the entire region between Belgrade 

and Athens. During this time it’s no exaggeration to say 

that the party never really ends, as the vast majority of 

the people in town are here on holiday and drinking at a 

restaurant during lunch or at the beach during the day 

is just short of being mandatory. 

Once the sun goes down, the nightlife action more or 

less falls into three categories: traditional bars and 

pubs, open-air bars and everything else. The old town 

establishments, most of which soldier on throughout 

the year, are bit more low key than elsewhere, while 

the seasonal open-air bars and clubs near the marina 

and along the waterfront are where things get can get 

really crazy. Then of course there are the traditional 

clubs nearer the city centre, and last but definitely not 

least the absurdly large Top Hill that is truly in a class 

of its own. 

Bars & Pubs 

Casper Bar B-4, Cara Dušana 10, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 33 40 22 90. We probably shouldn’t play favourites, 

but at the same time we feel compelled to mention that 

there’s no place we’d rather spend the better part of the 

night drinking in Budva than under the pine trees on one 

of Casper’s several terraces in the old town. Possessing 

an authenticity that at times can be in short supply in 

these parts, this place is definitely the antithesis of the 

mega-clubs and beach bars blasting turbo folk. Jazz, 

R’n’B, hip hop, electro, reggae, Latin, broken beat and 

house are the norm here, and they even host an annual 

jazz festival in early September. If you’re looking for 

something alternative, this is your place. Q Open: 10:00- 

02:00 from June-August, 17:00-02:00 from September- 

May. ABW 

Chest O’Shea’s Irish Pub B-4, Vuka Karadzica 9, 

Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 57 94 68, chestosheas@ 

gmail.com. A town is not a town without an Irish Pub, in 

which case Budva owes its very existence to this place 

- the only representative of the Emerald Isle in these 

parts. In addition to Guinness on tap (which any and all 

Irish pubs deserving of the name have of course), there 

are also sports, sports and more sports, with a flat 

screen TV on virtually every wall showing virtually every 

sporting event worth watching. Some nice extras include 

a book exchange, current English language newspapers, 

free internet and an organised pub crawl. QOpen 12:00 

- 24:00. ABW 

Greco B-4, Njegoševa bb, Stari grad. Arguably the 

most popular place to party within the old town walls, 

during the summer months the action doesn’t really get 

going till sometime after 10pm and continues until well 

after we’ve begun to feel guilty for local residents trying 

to sleep. Even when the place gets packed inside and 

out - which is almost a guaranteed occurrence every 

night of the week - it still feels a bit more intimate a venue 

than the larger beach bars outside the old town, due to 

the natural space limitations. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 

AB 

Jeff B-4, Njegoševa bb, Stari grad, tel. +382 68 03 33 

35. The mostly standing-room only neighbour of Greco in 

the centre of the old town, even when there’s not much 

going on here, places to rest your weary legs are in short 

supply. We’ve still never managed to find out who Jeff is, 

but we have repeatedly been serenaded drunk tourists on 

more than one occasion. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 

Nikšićko Pivo 

From 1896 until the present day, Nikšićko Pivo has 

become the most popular beer brand in our market. 

Produced from natural ingredients, skilfully and expertly 

by our brew masters, this famous lager has preserved 

its recognizable taste over the years. 

The 115-year long tradition, numerous medals and 

awards at world competitions confirm the undoubted 

quality of our beer. Once again, as a result of tradition 

and quality, Nikšićko Pivo won a gold medal at this 

year’s prestigious international competition - Monde 

Sellection. 

Nikšićko Pivo is produced in seven different SKU’s: 

0.5 l returnable bottle, 0,33 l non - returnable bottle, 

cans 0,33 and 0,5 l, 2l PET bottle and keg volume 30l 

and 50l. It contains 5% alcohol, and is best served at 

3° - 5 ° C. 

Nikšićko Pivo, just like the region it hails from, has 

always been the synonym for adventure, competitive 

spirit and return to nature, and is ment to be enjoyed 

with mates. 

Always among friends 


40 nigHtliFe 

Korkovado B-4. Although it shares its name with the 

café-cum-restaurant just outside the old town gates, this 

hip cocktail bar is a completely different experience, with an 

ambience all its own. Sitting quite literally atop and within the 

old town walls, Korkovado has the look and feel of an exclusive 

nightspot, but luckily none of the pretension. To find the place, 

turn left as soon as you pass through the main gate (Glavni 

ulaz) and follow the narrow alleyway until you see a sexy 

bikini-clad cartoon pointing you to the entrance. 

MB IceClub B-4, Njegoševa 44, Stari Grad, tel. +382 

33 45 25 52/+382 69 45 25 52, iceclubmb@gmail. 

com. This one could have easily been included under cafés, 

as its pleasant terrace on the old town’s largest square - in 

the shadow of the towering belfry of the Church of St John the 

Baptist - is one of the best places to grab a coffee, cake or 

fancy ice cream concoction during the day. However, they’re 

also well-known for cocktails and ‚club’ is in the name, which 

was the deciding factor. For more unique drinking experience, 

try to grab a seat on one of the three-person sofa swings. 

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. ABW 

The Prince B-4, Vranjak 8, Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 31 

25 98. Budva’s old town is small, but this place still manages 

to remain off the proverbial beaten path, surrounded 

by private courtyards with vegetation spilling out over their 

walls. A small but dignified-looking interior is supplemented 

by a handful of tables and chairs in the alleyway outside, and 

you can set your glass of draught Nikšičko on the weatherworn 

stone next to the entrance that looks to be from Roman 

times. They have Guinness, but a pint will cost you nearly €8. 

QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. ABW 

Clubs 

Discoteque Trocadero B-3/4, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 

69 06 90 86, info@trocaderobudva.com, www.trocaderobudva.com. 

Opened in 1992, Discoteque Trocadero (not to 

be confused with the seasonal beach bar of the same name) 

is indisputably the godfather Montenegro’s party scene, with a 

reputation that long ago spread to Belgrade and beyond. In 2005 

the club moved to its current location in the centre of Budva, which 

was formerly the city’s main cinema, and it can now host nearly 

2,000 partygoers at once - which is does on nearly a nightly basis 

during the summer. There are frequent live performances, mostly 

of the Yugo pop and turbo folk variety. Q Open June-September 

22:00-05:00, closed in winter. AE 

Sparta C-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 69 91 49 14, 

www.clubsparta.net. One of Budva’s most exclusive club 

(at least of those that are accessible to the general public), 

as the name suggests, Sparta has a vaguely Greek or Roman 

theme, but done in a sophisticated style that doesn’t take 

things too far. This is the place that VIPs come to party if they 

want to have a good time but still keep a relatively low profile, 

and its Fashion TV events have become the stuff of legends. 

Pack some smart clothes if you plan on getting in, while reservations 

are also recommended. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. 

Open-Air Bars and Clubs 

Arena H-2, Bečićka plaža bb, tel. +382 69 03 53 50/+382 

33 45 18 43, salus@t-com.me. Designed to resemble the 

coliseum in Rome (or at least half of it), Arena is a beach bar in 

the most literal sense, as the light yellow panels that make up 

its semi-circle exterior are set up right on the sand. While they 

unfortunately don’t have any gladiators battling to the death for 

the public’s entertainment, let alone any lions, tigers or other 

animals of prey, they do have loud music and lots of alcohol, 

which in our book is almost as good. 

El Mundo Cocktail Bar B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 69 

48 12 95. Of all the open-air bars that set up shop around 

old town walls during summer, El Mundo is one of the longest 

running. Located near the marina on Trg od Gvozdenih Vrata, 

it’s known for its specialty cocktails and focus on Latin music 

(if you can manage to differentiate the noise coming out of its 

speakers from that of its neighbours’). And on a completely 

subjective note, we’ve found that for some reason this is 

where some of the most attractive girls like to congregate. 

QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. 

Fortaleza B-4, Trg od Gvozdenih Vrata bb, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 69 89 14 04. We’re not sure if this open bar just outside 

the old town is named for the brand of tequila or the capital of 

the Brazilian state of Ceará, but one night last summer we drank 

so much tequila here that we could have sworn we were at Carnival 

in Brazil - which was good fun until the next morning when 

we tried to roll out of bed only to realise that we had passed out 

on the beach and had one of the worst hangovers of our life! 

We guess what we’re trying to say is, drink in moderation and 

stay away from tequila. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00. A 

Hacienda B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 68 22 70 94, 

info@haciendabarbudva.com, www.haciendabarbudva. 

com. Order a couple of the giant cocktails served in carved 

out full-sized watermelons and you may just start thinking 

you’re in Rio during carnival season. Only operating during 

the summer season, this Latin themed open-air party venue 

is hidden amongst the trees just to the west of the old town 

and promenade. A mild mannered café and restaurant by day, 

once the sun goes down everything goes, and it’s not uncommon 

to see fully costumed Brazilian dancers entertaining the 

sweaty crowds, or a live cuban band improving requests from 

the crowd. Q Open: June - September 08:00-02:00 A 

Maltez C-3, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 68 31 87 

92. Although this is Budva’s only pirate-themed nightclub, 

Pirates of the Caribbean fans shouldn’t get too excited, as 

waif-like Kiera Knightly has been replaced by a crew of voluptuous 

Montenegrins rocking swimwear and high heels, while 

gyrating wildly on the bar and most other available surfaces 

[Editor’s note: Coming here with your girlfriend may not be the 

best idea you’ve ever had], and Johnny Depp’s impersonation 

of Keith Richards’ reanimated corpse now looks a lot more like 

Russians in muscle shirts. Of course that’s not to say that you 

won’t have a great time here. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. 

Top Hill A-1, Topliški Put bb, tel. +382 68 05 05 

08/+381 69 1 66 96 00, info@tophill.me, www.tophill. 

me. With a capacity of well over 5,000 this massive open air 

club on the hill overlooking the city and sea some 600m below 

could fit nearly one third of Budva’s population within it’s walls 

at the same time, and is one of the largest open air clubs 

in all of Europe. Only opened in 2010, its headline-capturing 

capacity and state-of-the-art facilities (not to mention ideal 

location) have made it possible to add some of the biggest 

brand names in clubbing to its programme, such as Ministry 

of Sound, Hed Kandi, Playboy and Fashion TV. More than just 

another club, an night at Top Hill is an experience not soon 

forgotten. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. AL 

Trocadero Open Bar C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. 

+382 69 32 20 65. Not to be confused wtih the famous 

Discoteque Trocadero a few hundred metres away, this is 

easily the most recognisable of the many places that line the 

main city beach thanks to the replica Eiffel Tower at its centre. 

Like elsewhere you can expect loud (turbo folk) music blasting 

from every direction, girls dressed appropriately for the beach 

dancing in high places, and guaranteed good times under the 

stars and/or moon. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00. 


42 BeACHes 

It’s no secret that Budva’s biggest asset when it comes to 

tourism is its beaches. This is no chicken or the egg type 

argument - the beaches were here first, and the people, 

towns, resorts, marinas, nightclubs, Russians, go-go 

dancers, Ferraris and everything else followed. The socalled 

Budva Riviera comprises some 35km in the heart 

of Montenegro’s Adriatic coast, roughly 12.5km of which is 

covered by glorious glorious beaches. 

Usually officially divided into 18 different locations - most 

of which we’ve covered in detail here - Budva’s beaches 

run the gamut in terms of size, atmosphere and history, 

and each has its own unique personality. Most of the them 

also offer ample opportunities to party, with beach bars, 

open-air clubs and loud music being the normal state of 

affairs along most of the coast during the summer. 

While the majority of the beaches are privately operated, 

admission is usually free of charge, with the catch being 

that you are required to pay for a parasol and sun chairs 

(and presumably large amounts of alcohol), which can cost 

anywhere from €5-15 for two people depending on the 

beach. However, some stretches of the nicest sand (most 

notably at the west end of Bečići and around Sveti Stefan) 

are reserved only for guests of certain hotels and resorts. 

Bečići For the majority of visitors - both tourists and locals 

- all discussions of beaches on the Montenegrin coast begin 

and end with Bečići, the nearly 2km long swath of sand just 

east of Budva that stretches from Zavala hill to the former 

fishing village of Rafailovići. Bečići’s prestigious reputation 

dates back to at least 1935, when it was awarded the Grand 

Prix in Paris as the best beach in all of Europe. Nowadays, 

the western half of the beach is maintained by the luxury 

resorts and hotels that have lately made Bečići one of the 

most desirable addresses in the entire Mediterranean for jet 

setters and the international elite, which means that much 

of this area is reserved for guests only. But if the €7000 a 

night presidential suite at Hotel Splendid is not in your budget, 

don’t fret, as the eastern half of the beach shares the same 

sand, sun and water, and an umbrella and two sun beds can 

be rented for as little as €5 per day. 

Guvance Less than 100m long, Guvance surrounded by 

vegetation and nestled beneath the main Budva-Bečići road 

and often referred to simply as the ‚small beach’. The walking 

path that runs all the way (more or less uninterrupted) from 

Mogren beach to Sveti Stefan passes just above the pristine 

white sand before disappearing into the tunnel that emerges 

in Bečići on the other side, making Guvance a popular place 

to stop on a day of beach hopping along the coast. As it 

faces west towards the old town, this is also one of the best 

places to be at sunset. 

Jaz Aside from the beaches surrounding the fame resort 

island of Sveti Stefan, Jaz is likely the most internationally 

known beach in all of Montenegro, as it has recently hosted 

legendary concerts by some of the world’s most famous 

performers. The Rolling Stones first came here in 2007 as 

part of their A Bigger Bang Tour, and we followed the next 

year by the likes of Lenny Kavitz, Arman Van Helden and 

Madonna, with the latter drawing a crowd of over 50,000, 

or nearly three times the population of Budva. In addition 

to its status as a world famous concert venue, Jaz is also 

one of the finest beaches in the country, with over 1200m 

of pebble-lined shores, clear turquoise water and a nearby 

campsite that boasts an eye-popping 2000 lots. Don’t worry 

too much about crowds though, as the furtherest end of the 

beach provides is backed by hills and provides enough privacy 

that it was formerly reserved for nudists. 

Kamenovo One of the most underrated beaches in the 

region, we like to come here on foot via the tunnel from 

Rafailovići (where we also like to return for dinner in the evening), 

but you can also park just off the main road above and 

walk down. Facing to the southwest, it gets sun for nearly the 

entire day, and offers nice views of sunset behind Sveti Nikola 

Island in the distance. 

Queen’s Beach is definitely fit for royalty, photo courtesy of 

the Tourist Organisation of Budva 


Jaz Beach is one of the our personal favourites 

Miločer Arguably the most picture-perfect of all the beaches 

on the Budva Riviera, the 300m pink sand beach is surrounded 

by the manicured gardens of the Villa Miločer resort, which itself 

is part of an 18 hectare nature reserve populated by a varitey of 

exotic plant species such as Lebanese cedars, tropical mimosas, 

Japanese medlars and various cacti. Sometimes referred to as 

King’s beach, this was formerly the summer residence of the royal 

family, who obviously chose this location for a good reason. 

Mogren Unless you brought your climbing gear, Mogren beach 

is only accessible by following the narrow concrete path along 

the rocky cliffs from the Avala Hotel just outside the old town 

walls (you literally have to go underneath an elevated outdoor 

swimming pool), making it one of the most secluded in the 

entire area despite being so near to the city centre. Awarded 

the prestigious Blue Flag designation in 2004, it’s often called 

one of the most beautiful beaches in Montenegro, thanks to 

the lush green hills behind and the clean fine sand both on the 

beach and the sea bottom. It’s 350m length is actually divided 

into two separate beaches, which are connected by a tunnel 

through the hillside that juts out into the sea. 

Pizana The smaller and less attractive of the two old town 

beaches, Pizana is found on the opposite side of the jetty that 

protects Budva’s marina. That said, the views down the old town 

walls are simply stunning, as are those out towards St Nicholas 

Island, and the water remains shallow for quite some distance. 

Pržno The public beach for the lovely little Mediterranean 

settlement of Pržno, its some 300m of fine sand curves 

nearly halfway around the idyllic bay on which the town sits, 

and with the four-star Maestral resort and casino not far 

away, you know that it will always be well-maintained. Facing 

due west it also some spectacular sunsets, with Budva’s old 

town even visible in the distance. 

Queen’s Beach Along with neighbouring Miločer, Queen’s 

beach (or Kraljičina in Serbian) is part of an 18 hectare 

protected nature park, that was a part of the royal family’s 

Mediterranean estate prior to being nationalised in 1945. 

This small 200m gem was said to be the favourite beach 

of Queen Marija, the wife of King Alexander Karađorđević, 

which is where it got its name. Although the Montenegro is 

no longer a monarchy, the beach is still said to be a popular 

destination for state officials, so there’s a chance it may be 

closed to the general public if you try and visit. 

Ričardova Glava Often mistakenly referred to as City 

beach, Ričardova Glava (or Richard’s Head) is the small strip 

of coarse sand just outside the southwest corner of the old 

town walls. With the ancient walls towering behind you and 

the waves crashing against the rocky outcrop upon which 

the foundations of the church of Santa Maria in Punta sits to 

your left, this is one of the most atmospheric beaches you 

will ever enjoy a drink on (if you can find an empty table at 

one of the three cafés that occupy the majority of the sand). 


BeACHes 

To get there duck through the small passageway from Trg 

Pjesnika in the old town, or less romantically follow the city’s 

main promenade until it ends at the Avala Hotel. 

Slovenska Plaža Famously given the name Slavic Beach in 

1935 by a group of holidaying Czechs (although don’t tell this 

to any Slovenians, as they are convinced that it’s named after 

them!), Budva’s 1600m long central beach stretches across 

entire waterfront from the marina in the west until it ends just 

past Hotel Park in the far east of the city. Lined more or less 

continuously with restaurants and bars - some permanent 

and some only temporarily erected during the summer - this 

is where the where the party is from morning till late at night 

during the high season. 

Sveti Nikola Island During the summer months boats regularly 

ply the 1km of water separating Sveti Nikola Island from 

the mainland, which makes getting here a breeze, but at the 

same time assures that you unfortunately won’t be alone on the 

island’s built up northern beaches, which account for a combined 

840m of waterfront real estate. However, if you’re up for a bit of 

adventure you can rent a kayak and with some luck find a more 

intimate patch of sand under the sheer rock cliffs on the western 

or southern sides of the island. After an excursion here you’ll know 

first-hand why the locals refer to the place as Hawaii. 

Sveti Stefan If one image were chosen to represent all of 

Montenegro, the medieval island resort town Sveti Stefan 

would be it - and in fact is it, if you judge by the countless 

magazine and guide book covers. While a night’s sleep on the 

island itself will cost you at least four figures, for considerably 

less than that you can spend the day swimming on the beach 

just opposite, or at least on the southernmost two-thirds, as 

the pinkish red sands of the northern beach are reserved 

exclusively for the resort’s guests. 

2012 

43

44 wHAt to see 

Budva’s old town is almost big enough to get lost in - if you try really hard, photo courtesy of the Tourist Organisation of 

Budva 

While Budva is known primarily for its beaches and 

nightlife, there are plenty of historical and cultural 

points of interest to keep you busy for a couple of days. 

Unquestionably, the most famous individual sight is the 

island town of Sveti Stefan some six kilometres south 

of Budva, while a trip out to Sveti Nikola island just 

off the coast allows you to combine a bit of Robinson 

Crusoe-style exploration with some time on the beach. 

Of course, most of the rest of Budva’s sights are located 

within, or just outside, the walls of its well-preserved 

old town. 

Churches 

Church of St John the Baptist B-4. Soaring nearly twice 

as high as any other building in the old town, the bell tower of 

this 7th century church dedicated to St John the Baptist is the 

unequivocal star of Budva’s modest skyline. However, upon 

closer inspection it becomes clear even to those unversed 

in religious architecture that the mass of buildings referred 

to as Sveti Ivan by the locals is actually comprised of three 

completely separate structures, namely the bell tower, the 

former Bishopric Court and squeezed between these two the 

relatively diminutive church itself. 

The church has undergone significant architectural changes 

throughout its history, and was officially a cathedral until the 

Budvan Archbishopric was abolished in 1828. If you go inside 

make sure to pay special attention to the icon of Mary in the 

specially-built north altar. As the inscription says in Greek, it 

is the holiest of holies, and is said to have protected the city 

from plagues, pirates and all manner of other scourges since 

at least the 14th century. 

Church of St Mary of Punta B-4. Legend has it that 

the church was built on the spot where mysterious Spanish 

sailors placed an icon of Mary along with two burning candles 

in order to test the Christian faith of the local people sometime 

before the 9th century - the idea being that if they were good 

Christians they would accept the icon and perhaps build a 

church. And here we are 1200 years later, and the church is 

still standing! Founding legends aside, it is the oldest church in 

Budva and one of the oldest pre-Romanesque churches in the 

region. Built into the ramparts, it was originally a Benedictine 

monastery, before being taken over by the Franciscans and 

later the French. 

Church of St Sabas the Sanctified (Crkva Svetog 

Save) B-4. Usually going by its shortened moniker the 

Church of St Sava, this small Romanesque structure may 

not be immediately recognisable as church - to us it’s always 

looked a little naked without a bell tower or steeple of any 

kind - but during its nearly nine centuries of existence it’s 

admirably served several denominations of church-going 

Budvans. Forming part of the old town’s southern fortifications, 

it in fact pulled double duty as both a Roman Catholic 

and Orthodox church during Venetian rule. Nowadays you can 

still view several fragments of what were once impressive 

frescoes on the interior. 

Church of the Holy Trinity B-4. The newest of all the old 

town churches, the Church of the Holy Trinity has only called 

Trg od Crkava home for the past 208 years. Its architecture is 

based on that of the Church of the Assumption in Podostrog 

Monastery in the north of the country, and the interior is 

notable for the finely detailed iconostasis painted by the 

well-known Greek artist Naom Zetiri in 1883. 

Directly in front of the church, under the shade of a couple 

thick palm trees, is the tomb of noted writer and politician 

Stjepan Mitrov Ljubiša, who was born in Budva in 1824. This 

church is popular with Russian tour groups, so if you’re lucky 

you may be able to sneak in for a quick look outside of the 

official opening hours. 


Early Christian Basilica B-4. What was once a huge 

three-nave basilica dating from the late 5th century, is now 

little more than slightly overgrown ruins surrounded on two 

sides by the terrace of café and restaurant - which for our 

tastes is actually a great place to grab a drink or light meal. 

The remains of the formerly magnificent structure still stand 

as a testament to Budva’s importance as a centre of culture, 

religion and commerce in the south Adriatic region for the 

better part of two millennia. 

The Old Town 

Budva’s old town may not have the dramatic setting of 

nearby Kotor or the size of Dubrovnik just across the 

border in Croatia, but metre for metre it’s one of the best 

preserved and most visitor-friendly ancient walled cities in 

this part of the Mediterranean. 

Originally founded in the 5th century BC, by the son of 

Phoenician King Agenor if legends are to be believed, most 

of the architectural elements present today are the work 

of the Venetians. Over the centuries Budva has suffered 

several major earthquakes, most recently in 1979 when 

much of the old town was severely damaged and then 

painstakingly restored and rebuilt during the better part 

of the 1980s. 

While we consider every narrow alleyway, square and 

courtyard contained within the walls to be a sight unto 

itself, most of locations we’ve written about in detail are 

situated in the southernmost section of the ancient city. 

Despite its small size, the old town can be a bit tricky 

to navigate for those here for the first time, especially 

if you’re looking for a specific place. The enormous bell 

tower of St John’s church is a handy point of reference, 

and you can pick up a hand 3D computer modelled map 

for free at any tourist office and many other places. 

Budva Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) 

B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 33 45 33 08. Given the amount 

of Budva’s treasures that have been carted off to institutions 

elsewhere in Montenegro, Serbia and further afield 

(not to mention all the items that nefariously found their way 

Discover Budva’s history of piracy at the Archeological 

museum, or see the real thing (apparently) at Budva Marina 


wHAt to see 

The Church of St Sabas forms part of the old town walls 

into private hands), it’s a bit of a surprise that there is still 

anything left to exhibit in the town’s fine little archeological 

museum. However, as far as we’re concerned the collection 

here is provides an excellent survey of what life was like in 

this part of the world from ancient time until the end of the 

19th century. 

Beginning with the Illyrians, who among other things left 

behind a fierce-looking bronze helmet that is one of the 

museums most prized pieces, the exhibits move chronologically 

through various ceramics, glassware and jewellery 

from the Greek and Roman periods, before skipping forward 

to medieval times and the more ‚modern’ items from the 

Renaissance onwards, which an expectedly impressive 

maritime collection. 

A small exhibition on the 4th floor is reserved for ethnological 

and cultural artefacts. It’s worth coming here with a guide, as 

most of the exhibits are unfortunately only labelled in Serbian. 

However, if you’d like to remain independent, you can purchase 

a detailed full-colour catalogue from the ticket office before 

you enter. All in all, splendid way to spend and afternoon if 

you grow weary of the beach parties. 

Budva Marina B-3/4. While Budva’s Marina probably isn’t 

at the top of (or even on) most visitor’s lists of sights to see 

while on holiday here, we find it a fascinating location in its own 

right, and for better or worse it has an inescapable presence 

if you’re walking, dining, drinking or swimming anywhere near 

the waterfront. Once a small fishing harbour like countless 

other you can find around the Adriatic, in recent years it has 

been expanded to accommodate the speedboats and yachts 

of wealthy locals and foreign holidaymakers. The juxtaposition 

of the gnarled old fishing fleet and the glistening new pleasure 

toys moored together beneath the old town walls, makes for 

some interesting photo opportunities. This is also the place 

to head if you’d like to catch one of the regular boats to Sveti 

Nikola Island during the summer. 


nAvAl heritAge ColleCtion 

Housed in a beautifully restored building, 

the NHC tells the remarkable story of the 

Adriatic’s maritime past, showcasing over 

300 artifacts including Yugoslav submarines. 

Porto Montenegro Village, Tivat, portomontengero.com, 

tel.: +382 (0)32 660 900 

2012 

45


Dancing Girl Statue A-4. Despite the fact that it’s 

become one of the most photographed sights in all of 

Budva, surprisingly little is known about this famous statue 

positioned above the crashing waves on the rocks between 

the old town and Mogren beach. The story that’s most often 

told about the statue’s origins is that it’s a memorial to the 

daughter of a wealthy local family who went for a swim one 

day and never returned, which is sometimes embellished with 

additional details involving lost or unrequited love. 

Mogren Fortress Ruins 

Mogren Fortress Ruins If the ancient buildings in 

the old town are too well-preserved for your tastes, then 

the ruins of once mighty Mogren Fortress may be more to 

your liking. Situated on the seaside bluffs that overlook 

both the city of Budva and Sveti Nikola Island to the east, 

Jaz Beach to the west and the open sea everywhere in 

between, the vantage point from atop what remains of 

the fortress are arguably the best of anywhere the entire 

Montenegrin coast. 

Originally built in 1860 to protect against attack from the 

town’s western flank, the structure played an active role 

in both World Wars after receiving some modern concrete 

additions, but then fell into disrepair with the receding 

likelihood of an Italian invasion. Nowadays it serves as 

a site of interest for intrepid tourists, as well as popular 

party spot for the local youth. 

The easiest way to get there is to have a taxi drop you 

off at the turn off just before the tunnel on the main road 

to Tivat and Kotor, and then walk the 500m or so up the 

unsealed path to the top. When you’re done you have the 

option of walking back down the hill on the same road, or 

finding your way down to Mogren beach along the not very 

well-marked path. Whichever way you choose beware of 

snakes, as the long grass here is full of them (some of 

which are poisonous) during the warmer months. 

One legend we’ve never actually heard is that touching the 

statue’s breasts, thighs or buttocks will bring good luck, but 

judging by where the metal has been rubbed to a shiny golden 

colour this rumour must have been circulating for some time. 

At the end of the day, we’d almost rather not knowing where 

the truth lies, as finding out that its just an ordinary work of 

art - even if it’s an exceptionally elegant one - would somehow 

be disappointing. 

Open Art Studio B-4, Iva Mikovića 8a, tel. +382 69 

48 08 97/+382 69 27 40 82, openartstudionvip@mail. 

ru, www.openartstudiovip.com. The private art gallery of 

Jelena Papović and Živojin Ćelić is the just about the opposite 

of what you’d expect a private art gallery to be - a relaxed 

quasi-spiritual atmosphere where long discussions about 

art, method, philosophy and life come before any mention of 

sales or prices. Located just off of Trg Palmi, the two-room 

gallery is also an active studio, with works in various phases 

resting on easels, shelves and the floor. 

Although the two resident artists both have Montenegrin 

backgrounds, they are from different generations (Živojin is a 

veteran of the art world having studied and lived in the Netherlands 

for two decades, while Jelena is some years younger and 

has mainly worked in Montenegro) and have vastly different 

styles (Živojin works primarily on abstract, so-called energy 

paintings, while Jelena’s central subject is the human figure). 

Art is subjective, and we w’ll admit that we quite like both 

their work, but even non-collectors or enthusiasts may find 

something interesting here. 

Roman Necropolis A-4. Only discovered in 1937 during 

the construction of what is now the Hotel Avala, the ‚Roman’ 

necropolis is actually two separate ancient burial grounds: 

a Greek necropolis dating back to the 4th to 1st century BC 

and a Roman one that was built on top of it during the 1st 

and 2nd century AD. 

Extensive archeological excavations took place over a period 

of some three decades from the 1950s till the 1980s, uncovering 

over 450 individual graves and countless priceless 

artefacts. Most of these - which include ceramics, weapons 

and jewellery from the Greeks, and ceramic, stone and glass 

urns that held the remains of cremated Romans - were carted 

off to various museums in Belgrade, Split, Cetinje and elsewhere, 

although some items are also on display at the Budva 

Archeological Museum nearby in the old town. 

Additionally, the site itself is now a small open-air exhibition 

picturesquely arranged under some swaying palms between 

the aforementioned Hotel Avala and the neighbouring Hotel 

Mogren at the end of the promenade. 

Sveti Nikola Island is so close to Budva that if all else fails 

you can swim there in about an hour, photo courtesy of the 

Tourist Organisation of Budva 


The Citadel B-4, Stari Grad. Logically set at the highest 

point in the old town, the Citadel is thought to be built 

upon the remnants of Budva’s ancient acropolis. Expanded 

and strengthened over the centuries, function was always 

placed over style, which has given it the layered appearance 

it has today. 

The fortress’ main building was constructed by the Austrians 

in 1836 to house the regiment of troops stationed at the 

coast, and is now partially used for a small city museum, while 

another section of the building houses a small but stately 

library - which would without question be our favourite café 

in town, if only there were a café! 

In the summer the Citadel’s large open-air courtyard is transformed 

into a stage for the annual Theatre City Festival, giving 

the audience an uncanny feeling of floating between sea and 

sky. Q Admission €2. 

Around Budva 

Kosmač Fortress H-1. Of the many sights hidden 

high up in the hills above Budva, Kosmač Fortress is 

perhaps the impressive. A fine example of functional 

mid-19th century military architecture, it was built during 

the 1840s along what was then the border between the 

Austro-Hungarian Empire and Montenegro, and was the 

most important and strategically placed of the chain of 

defensive fortifications in the area - receiving a personal 

visit from Emperor Franz Joseph himself in 1875. Constructed 

from grey limestone dug out from local quarries, 

the fortress still blends in quite seamlessly with the rugged 

rocky terrain. Nowadays the structure is in a state of 

disrepair that could even be called ruins (as it’s missing 

its roof and significant portions of its tower and walls), but 

it is still a visually stunning specimen with breathtaking 

views. 


wHAt to see 

26th Theatre City 

15.06 Friday - 01.08 Wednesday 

Tel. +382 33 40 29 

35, theatrecity@tcom.me, 

www. 

gradteatar.com. 

Founded in the mid- 

1980s as a way to 

celebrate the end of 

the multi-year rebuilding 

process that was 

required to repair the damage caused by a devastating 

earthquake in 1979, Theatre City is more than just a 

drama festival as the name would suggest. In fact, it‘s a 

six week performing arts festival held in various open-air 

venues across Budva, and one of the largest events of 

its kind in the region. 

During the festival the city itself becomes one enormous 

stage - hence the name - with actors, musicians, 

artists, writers and poets practising their craft for 

eager audiences. While the Citadel‘s large elevated 

courtyard can be considered the ‚main stage‘, other 

locations include several beaches, old town squares, 

church interiors and several other venerable ancient 

buildings. In addition to the nearly daily events officially 

organised under the banner of the festival, there are 

many additional smaller fringe events, exhibitions and 

the like that further reinforce the festive atmosphere 

in the city. 

A full programme of events can be found on the official 

festival website, which also includes detailed information 

about the individual venues and performers. 

2012 

47


Sveti Stefan 

The fortified island village of Sveti Stefan is an image 

that most people are familiar with, even if they 

are not aware that it’s located in Montenegro - only 

6km down the coast from Budva to be exact. Built in 

the 15th century after a decisive victory against the 

Turks at nearby Jaz beach (local legend has it that 

the construction was financed largely with treasure 

captured during the battle), for most of the next few 

centuries it was nothing more than a sleepy fishing 

village that was home to a dozen or so familes and 

occasionally had to fend off attack by the Ottomans, 

pirates or other ne’er-do-wells. 

In the 19th century, the island became too small to 

support to its 400 or so residents, who collectively 

decided to move the whole village a few hundred 

metres away on the mainland. It was from this point 

forward that Sveti Stefan was slowly transformed 

into a resort town - first for the royal family and later 

in the 20th century for celebrities and the ultrawealthy. 

In the 1960s and 1970s it reached the peak 

of it international fame, as frequent guests included 

Elizabeth Taylor, Orson Welles, Sophia Loren, Kirk 

Douglas, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Margaret and 

the first man is space Yuri Gagarin. Chess legend 

Bobby Fischer also won his famed rematch with Boris 

Spassky here in 1992. 

The island lost some of its lustre following the long 

drawn out breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, and by 

the beginning of the early 21st century it had begun 

to fall into decline. However, in 2007 the entire island, 

as well as the nearby Villa Miločer on the mainland, 

was taken over by the exclusive luxury resort operator 

Amanresorts, which has since undertaken extensive 

renovation and restoration of many of the buildings, 

reopening the first phase of the project in 2008. 

Unfortunately for the majority of tourists - and presumably 

our readers - Sveti Stefan is currently closed 

to non-guests, but at least its spectacular outward 

appearance can still be freely enjoyed from the adjacent 

beach and surrounding countryside. 

Magnificent Sveti Stefan, photo by LeCardinal 

Budva’s once mighty Citadel is now breached on a daily 

basis - by tourists, photo by Ruiz de Azua 

Podostrog Monastery G-2. This 17th century monastery 

is situated on outskirts of modern Budva, only 2km or 

so from the old town. With great views of the entire bay, it 

was known as one of the favourite place of Prince Njegoš, 

who ruled Montenegro in the middle of the 19th century. 

The large complex was built in two stages, with the small 

Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin and a twofloor 

monks’ residence completed first and protected with 

defensive walls and towers. The large terrace adjacent to 

the residence, was said to have been built at the request of 

Njegoš himself. A larger second church outside the walls was 

added at a later date. 

Praskvica Monastery J-2. One of the most beautiful (and 

easiest to reach) of all the monasteries near Budva, Praskvica 

is only a few minutes drive above Sveti Stefan. Dating back to 

at least the early 15th century, today the still active Serbian 

Orthodox monastery consists of two churches, a large building 

serving as the monks’ residence and cemetery. The much 

larger of the two churches is dedicated to St Nicholas and was 

built in 1847 in the spirit of Neo-Gothic style. The interior of 

the simple single-nave building is dominated by a large golden 

iconostasis. The smaller church honours the Holy Trinity, and 

is notable for some well-worn yet nevertheless impressive 

original frescoes from the 17th century. 

Sveti Nikola Island That large green landmass sitting 

conspicuously in the middle of Budva’s otherwise empty bay, 

is the island of Saint Nicholas, which also goes by the name 

Sveti Nikola (in Serbian) and Hawaii. At 2km long it’s one of 

the largest islands in the southern part of the Adriatic sea, 

and is surprisingly covered with lush vegetation throughout 

the year. 

Of cultural importance is the small Church of St Nicholas, 

which officially dates back to the 16th century, but was built 

on top of the ruins of an even earlier Crusader-era church and 

cemetery. At the north end of the island there’s a restaurant, 

café and a couple of private beaches, while most of the rest 

of the land is still wild, and home to many varieties of wildlife, 

including rabbits, birds and even deer. 

It’s believed that a narrow sandbar once connected the island 

to the mainland, and theoretically you could still reach it on foot 

at low tide when the water is said to be only half a metre deep. 

However, most people opt for one of the numerous water taxi 

that travel back and forth during the summer season. At other 

times of year you’ll have to negotiate with the local fishermen 

if you don’t have your own boat. 


50 sHopping 

Fashion & Shoes 

+IT B-4, Stefana Mitrova Ljubiše 4, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 33 45 29 31. Shoes and accessories. QOpen 

09:00 - 00:00. 

Afrodita B-4, Stefana Mitrova Ljubiše 22, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 33 45 26 29, amcbudva@gmail.com. Fashionable 

clothing and shoes, some made by domestic designers. 

QOpen 09:00 - 00:00. 


FAshion&shoes 

heidi Klein 

Resort wear, swim wear as well as beach 

accessories from designers lines. Porto 

Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, heidiklein. 

com, tel.: +382 (32) 660 964 

WolF&bAdger 

Lifestyle boutique showcasing edgy men’s 

and women’s lines and jewelry. Porto Montenegro 

Vlllage - Ozana, Tivat, wolfandbadger. 

com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 965 

AnAMAr 

Contemporary décor pieces as well as bijoux 

and fashion accessories from all over the 

world. Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana, 

Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)32 540 350 

Mooi 

Carefully selected high-end designer fashion. 

Porto Montenegro Village - Zeta, Tivat, 

m-o-o-i.me, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960 

Mungos 

Well known Italian fashion brands. Porto 

Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, tel.: +382 

(0)32 660 960 

noé & Zoë 

Kids fashion, toys and bedding. Porto Montenegro 

Village - Ozana, Tivat, http://www. 

noe-zoe.com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 967 

ChuCs 

The best quality beach wear for ladies and 

gentlemen. Porto Montenegro Village-Ozana, 

Tivat, chucsdiveshop.com, tel.: +382 (32) 

661 076 

sAddler’s union 

Hand crafted leather precious goods. Porto 

Montenegro Village - Tara, Tivat, http://saddlersunion.com, 

tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960 

itAliA indePendent 

Trendy clothing and eyewear for men. Porto 

Montenegro Village -Tara, Tivat, italiaindependent.com, 

+382 (0)32 660 960 

Bambini B-4, Petra I Petrovića 1, Stari grad, tel. +382 

68 06 95 61. Fashion for children. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 

Bambola B-4, Njegoševa 26, Stari grad. Italian clothing 

for women. Also at Petra I Petrovića 22. QOpen 09:00 - 

00:00. 

De Mode Shop B-4, Njegoševa 1, Stari grad, tel. +382 

33 45 13 99. Underwear and swim wear for men and women. 

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 

Euromoda B-4, Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45 

14 20, euromoda@t-com.me, www.tenero.me. Trendy 

clothes by Pal Zileri, Baldinini, Santoni and Armata Di Mare. 

Q Open 10:00-24:00 in July and Aug, 10:00-21:00 from 

Sept - May 

Lisca B-4, Stefana Mitrova Ljubiše 9, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 33 45 17 12. Lingerie and swim wear for women. 

QOpen 09:00 - 00:00. 

Oko B-4, Slovenska obala 11, tel. +382 69 21 73 42. 

Optics store with trendy frames and sunglasses. QOpen 

09:00 - 00:00. 

Paradiso B-2/3, 22. Novembra 7, tel. +382 33 45 11 

65. Trendy fashion for women. Also at Splendid Hotel. QOpen 

08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 

Paradiso Outlet C-2, Jadranski put 37, tel. +382 33 45 

20 02. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 

Polini B-4, Njegoševa 16, Stari grad. Trendy Italian shoes. 

QOpen 09:00 - 00:00. 

Tenero Fashion B/C-3, Mediteranska 8 (TQ Plaza), 

tel. +382 67 27 95 92, tenerofashion@t-com.me, www. 

tenero.me. High fashion multi-brend store with Pal Zileri, 

Baldinini, Santoni and Armata Di Mare. Q Open: 09:00-23:00 

in July and Aug, 09:00-22:00 from Sept - May 

Unico H-2, Bečići, Splendid Hotel, tel. +382 33 77 49 

30. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 

Women’s Store C-3, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 67 

56 18 71. Italian clothing and shoes for women. QOpen 

10:00 - 01:00. 

Gifts & Souvenirs 

GG Souvenir Shop B-4, Njegoševa 30, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 68 60 03 88. Get your gift or a souvenir from Montenegro 

here. Also in Museum of Budva courtyard, Slovenska 

obala and near the big bell in front of the Old Town. QOpen 

09:00 - 00:00. 

Mistica B-4, Petra I Petrovića bb, Stari grad, tel. +382 

69 08 07 29. Handmade souvenirs. Also at Stefana Mitrova 

Ljubiše 19, in the Old Town. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 


JeWellery&WAtChes 

CArolinA buCCi 

Fine designer jewelry. Porto Montenegro Village 

– Ozana, Tivat, carolinabucci.com, tel.: 

+382 (32) 660 966 

MAWi 

Stunning bijoux pieces warn by celebrities. 

Porto Montenegro Village - Tara, Tivat, www. 

mawi.co.uk, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960 

Zoe&MorgAn 

Luxury jewelry with a rock&roll edge. Porto 

Montenegro Village -Tara, Tivat, zoeandmorgan.com, 

tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960 



Art 

gAllery PiZAnA 

Showcasing talent from local and international 

artists. Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana, 

Tivat, pizana.me, tel.: +382 (0)67 896 132 

sPeCiAlity shoPs 

suPerMArKet ConCePt store 

A conceptual and a multifunctional space, 

or as they say, everything you can think of in 

one place. Porto Montenegro Village - Milena, 

Tivat, www.supermarket.rs 

FloWer shoP 

Porto Montenegro Village - Teuta, Tivat 

PolAr CleAn 

Laundry service. Porto Montenegro Village – 

Ozana, Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)32 684 077 

Food&drinK 

bonellA 

Fruits and vegetable market with juice bar. 

Porto Montenegro Village - Zeta, Tivat, www. 

agrogroup.me/bonella.html 

giFts&souvenirs 

AM/PM ConCePt store 

Range of handmade, sustainable and or- 


Slovenska obala 11, 

Budva 

Mediteranska 8, 

Budva - TQ Plaza 

www.tenero.me 

sHopping 

ganic products from the Bay of Kotor and 

beyond, all in one nautically themed space. 

Porto Montenegro Village – Ozana, Tivat, portomontenegro.com, 

tel.: +382 (0)32 661 041 

For the hoMe 

Prohouse 

Interior design company supplying furniture 

lines from Italy and abroad. Porto Montenegro 

Village – Teuta, Tivat, prohousecg.me, tel.: 

+382 (0)20 405 045 

booKs&MAgAZines 

City booKstore 

International books and magazines and coffee 

bar. Porto Montenegro Village – Teuta, 

Tivat, novaknjiga.com 

Jewelry & Watches 

Old Time Watch Shop B-4, Petra Prvog Petrovića 23, 

Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 28 80. Chronotech, Jaques 

Lemans, Fossil, Diesel and more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. 

Tuš Jewelry B-4, Njegoševa 20, Stari grad, tel. +382 

33 45 21 30. Modern jewelry, some hand made. QOpen 

09:00 - 23:00. 

Sports & Outdoor 

Mega Sport B-4, Njegoševa 9, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 

45 34 51. Various high quality sports equipment, including 

Nike. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 

2012 

51

52 Kotor 

The views of Kotor Bay from the fortifications above the old town are worth the (steep, slippery) climb, photo by Georgios 

Giannopoulos 

Kotor, known as Cattaro in medieval times, has the most 

dramatic setting of any town along the Mediterranean 

Sea. 

In the far corner of the impressive Kotor Bay, surrounded 

by 1,400 metre high mountains, its medieval stone 

churches and houses huddle together within a small 

triangle of mighty fortress walls, squeezed between the 

waterfront and the mountains raising sheer up behind. It’s 

been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, and you’d 

be mad not to visit. 

With a population of 14,000 it is situated just 80km from 

Podgorica, 22km from Budva and 90km from Dubrovnik 

across the border in Croatia, and is easily reached by bus. 

Getting Around 

Kotor is quite small, easy to get around and easy to get 

to, with buses shuttling up and down the coast and to 

Podgorica all day. 

Bus station Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 32 32 58 09. 

With it’s unique bombed-out look, Kotor’s bus station is a 

10-minute walk south of the old town and has smashing 

views of the rockface directly behind. If you want to use a 

bus, you’ll have to brush up on your Cyrillic, as it is beyond 

the city’s budget to post the destination names in Latin 

script. There’s a ticket office but they don’t speak foreign 

languages and you have to buy most tickets from the driver 

anyway, so simply rock up 15 minutes before departure. 

QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. 

Where to stay 

Kotor has many small hotels and apartments both in and 

outside the old town. Beware that in summer the noise 

from the bars in much of the old town are such that you 

won’t get much sleep until daybreak - and that’s when the 

sweepers come and clang the bins about. Choose your 

room very carefully. 

Hotels 

Astoria Stari Grad 322, Trg od Pošte, tel. +382 32 30 

27 20/+382 69 77 55 22, fax +382 32 30 27 21, kotor@astoriamontenegro.com, 

www.astoriamontenegro. 

com. With only nine surprisingly spacious rooms set in a 

beautifully restored 14th century palace, Astoria is really in 

a class of its own when it comes to accommodation in the 

old town - and not only Kotor’s old town, but anywhere. The 

gorgeous rooms are complimented by staff that not only provides 

excellent service, but also seems genuinely welcoming 

and thoughtful to the needs and desires of guests. If you’re 

thinking of splurging only once during your trip, let this be the 

place. Perhaps the only drawback about staying here is that 

wherever you stay next will be disappointing in comparison. 

Q 9 rooms (singles €120/180, doubles €150/230, suites 

€180/280 in low/high season). ABKW 

Cattaro Stari Grad 433, tel. +382 32 31 10 00, fax 

+382 32 31 10 80, cattarohotel@t-com.me, www. 

cattarohotel.com. One of Kotor’s best hotels, built inside 

the reconstructed Napoleontic theatre and a wing of the 

duke’s palace, with all rooms overlooking the main square. 

The décor is classy, with flatscreen TVs embedded in dark 

wooden frames. Apartments are large and sleep three 

people. The hotel also has a casino upstairs. Q 20 rooms 

(singles €69/89, doubles €99/119, suites€180/230 in low/ 

high season). POARFBKW hhhh 

Forza Mare Kriva bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35 00, 

fax +382 32 33 35 20, info@forzamare.com, www.forzamare.com. 

Do yourself a favour and book a room right now 

for this 5-star boutique hotel tucked away on the coast a few 

kilometres north of Kotor. If you succeed in securing one of the 

ten highly in demand suites, you’ll be in good company - we’d 

love to list the names that are rumoured to have stayed here, 

but that would probably get us in trouble. What’s the draw? 

Large individually designed and themed suites, first-rate facilities 

(including a spa and wellness centre, outdoor pool, gym 


Tourist information 

Tourist Information Office Stari Grad, tel. +382 

32 32 59 50/+382 32 32 28 86, tokotor@t-com. 

me, www.tokotor.com. Kotor‘s tourist information 

office is in a kiosk just outside the main city gate. Staff 

hand out free maps. Visitors can rent an audio guide (€1/ 

hr) that has a commentaried walk through the old town. 

QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. 

Forza Cattaro Trg od oružja 432, Stari grad, tel. 

+382 32 30 40 68, forzacattaro@t-com.me, www. 

forzamare.com. Guides, tours, transfers, hotel and 

travel bookings from a helpful travel agent cum souvenir 

shop right inside the city’s main gate. QOpen 08:00 

- 20:00. 

and seaside dining), and discrete professional service to start 

with. If you’re splashing out anyway, the deluxe rooms with 

sea views are well worth the premium. Q 10 rooms (doubles 

€220-322 from June - Sept, €180-252 in April, May and Oct, 

closed from Nov- Mar). PAFLBKDCW 

Monte Cristo Stari Grad 423/424, tel. +382 32 32 24 

58/+382 69 71 33 58, fax +382 32 32 24 59, office@ 

montecristo.co.me, www.montecristo.co.me. Situated in 

a 13th century palace on a lovely little square in the middle of 

Kotor’s old town, the Monte Cristo exudes a certain charm and 

authenticity that few can match. The rooms are all uniquely 

designed in order to accommodate the floorplan of the 

ancient building, and the care that went into choosing each 

piece of furniture is immediately evident. Of course modern 

amenities (LCD and satellite TV, broadband internet, etc) are 

also included. Breakfast on the small terrace overlooking 

the square is an absolutely sublime experience, and all but 

guarantees a perfect start to the day. Q 7 rooms (standard 

doubles €75-110, deluxe doubles €90-130, 3-person suite 

€115-175, 4-person suite €150-200). PJAKW 

Palazzo Radomiri Dobrota 220, tel. +382 32 33 31 

72, fax +382 32 33 31 76, info@palazzoradomiri.com, 

www.palazzoradomiri.com. The consensus opinion is that 

Palazzo Radomiri is perfect, and although we try to avoid 

making such absolutist statements we find little reason 

to disagree. Built in the early 18th century by a family of 

wealthy sea captains, the Venetian-era palace has been 

painstakingly restored to its original condition, and outfitted 

ever so carefully with all of the modern amenities one would 

expect from a four-star boutique hotel. The same care and 

attention to detail that went into its restoration is also shown 

to guests, many of whom happily return at the first available 

opportunity. Rooms vary greatly in size, price and views, but 

all the pertinent info can be found on their website. Q 10 

rooms (singles €60-170, doubles €90-240, family suites 

€120-260). Closed from Oct - April except for group bookings. 

PTAFLKCW 

Splendido Glavati bb, Prčanj, tel. +382 32 30 17 00, 

fax +382 32 33 62 22, hotel.splendido@t-com.me, www. 

splendido-hotel.com. Just out of town, a short taxi ride along 

the very scary road to the Kamenari ferry crossing, this splendidly 

located 18th century building has great views over Kotor 

and the bay, a pool and private beach. It’s named after the first 

ship to sail around the world from Kotor (which actually came 

back). The rooms in the main building are small, but those in 

the newer annex are fine. Q 43 rooms (doubles €135-145, 

apartments €150-200 in July and Aug, €88-125, €106-160 

from Sept - May). PHALBKCW hhhh 



2012 

53


Vardar Stari Grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, fax +382 

32 32 50 74, info@hotelvardar.com, www.hotelvardar. 

com. Right on Kotor’s main square and equipped with one 

of the most popular terraces, the Vardar is named after a 

river in Macedonia and has comfortable rooms that provide 

great views of the bustle in the streets around. For business 

types there’s wifi and a conference room, for bons vivants 

there’s a wellness centre and a cigar lounge. Q 23 rooms 

(singles €125, doubles €185, apartments €220-255 in July 

and Aug, €95-115, €125-155, €165-230 from Sept - May). 

PHAFLEKDW hhhh 

Vila Panonija Dobrota 1, tel. +382 32 33 48 93, 

vilapanonija@t-com.me, www.vilapanonija.com. Located 

just a few minutes drive from the Kotor proper in the 

settlement of Dobrota, Panonija is a great option for bed 

and breakfast if avoiding the bus and boat-loads of tourists 

that stream into the old town during the summer. It is a true 

villa, built in stone in a traditional style. The seven rooms are 

cosy, and most offer some view of the bay, including a couple 

with terrace on which you can also enjoy your breakfast. The 

dining room downstairs has some fine stained glass work, 

and has the ambience of some kind of medieval manor or 

castle. Q 7 rooms (singles €50, doubles €80, triples €99). 

AK 

Villa Duomo Stari Grad 385, tel./fax +382 32 32 

31 11, tel. +382 32 32 30 30, info@villaduomo.com, 

www.villaduomo.com. A beautiful three-storey Renaissance 

home transformed into a boutique hotel. The rooms 

and apartments inside retain their old stone walls, but now 

have gleaming marble floors and modern bathrooms. Q 13 

apartments (singles €120, doubles €120-135, triples €185, 

suites €240-250). PALBW hhhh 

Hostels 

Montenegro Hostel Kotor Stari Grad, Trg od Muzeja 

390, tel. +382 69 03 97 51/+382 69 27 05 10, montenegrohostel@gmail.com, 

www.montenegrohostel. 

com. Montenegro’s first and still best chain of locally-owned 

hostels, the Kotor branch is where everything started, on 

Museum Square right next to the city’s famous Maritime 

Museum. This place has a great backpacker vibe and 

several sociable common rooms, and if you don’t feel like 

making use of the kitchen facilities, they offer all-you-can-eat 

lunch or dinner offer for only €5. The in-house travel agency 

can arrange all kinds of activities, including the famous ‚Big 

Montenegro’ tour that covers the entire country in a single 

day. Stay consecutive six nights in any of their three hostels 

and the seventh is free. Q 8 rooms (doubles €25-30, triples 

€37-45, dorm beds €11-14). PJKW 

Old Town Hostel Stari Grad 284, tel. +382 32 32 

53 17, info@hostel-kotor.me, www.hostel-kotor.me. If 

you’re like us, you’re drawn to Kotor by the unique romance 

of a well-preserved Venetian city on one of the world’s most 

picturesque bays, and would love to spend your nights here 

sleeping comfortably in a beautifully restored 13th century 

palace. And if you’re like us, such accommodation sadly 

exceeds your budget many times over. Luckily for you (and 

us) the folks who just opened the Old Town Hostel have 

now made it possible to do just this for only €10 per night. 

They also have a splendid lounge area, ample bathrooms 

and kitchen, several private rooms and even rent electric 

bicycles. Q 9 rooms (doubles €30-35, 6/10-bed dorms 

€10-12 per bed). PW 

Where to eat 

Kotor gets plenty of tourists in the summer months, and 

the old town and immediate surroundings have plenty 

of quality places to eat. Later at night, the narrow alleys 

burst with young people enjoying drinks and amazingly 

loud music. 

Astoria Stari Grad 322, tel. +382 32 30 27 20/+382 

69 77 55 22, kotor@astoriamontenegro.com, www. 

astoriamontenegro.com. Like its sister property in nearby 

Budva, the house restaurant at Astoria’s old town boutique 

hotel in Kotor offers exquisitely prepared, presented and 

served international and fusion cuisine that ranges from Japanese 

and Thai to Italian and Montenegrin, and most things in 

between. The ambience here is a bit different though, with 

large format poetry in several languages on the walls and an 

Kotor’s famous clock tower used to lean a bit to the right, 

but was finally straightened in the 1980s 


enormous artificial tree breaking through an opening in the 

ceiling to the floor above. They also have ample seating in 

the square outside. An excellent dining experience all around. 

QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PJABW 

Bastion Stari grad 517, 29 Novembra, tel. +382 32 32 

21 16. Away from the more touristy parts of the old town, 

Bastion is a fine restaurant serving fresh fish dishes and other 

Montenegrin specialities beside the city’s northern gate. It 

has a pleasantly shady terrace on the quiet square in front of 

the restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAB 

Galion Šuranj bb, tel. +382 32 32 50 54, galion@t-com. 

me, www.hotelvardar.com. One of the biggest problems 

with dining within the old town walls of Kotor is that you can’t 

see the forest for the trees - sure there are some lovely 

squares in which to dine, but they simply don’t offer you any 

perspective. It’s for exactly this reason that people venture 

several hundred metres around the harbour to Galion, which 

sits literally on top of the water facing the souther city walls. 

Perhaps the best part is that the food and service are actually 

almost as good as the views. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 

12:00 - 01:00. PALBW 

Konoba Scala Santa Trg od Salate, tel. +382 69 29 

05 12. Said to be the oldest restaurant in Kotor, it definitely 

looks the part, absolutely oozing authentic charm from every 

crack in the ancient wooden beams that ever so tenuously 

keep the place standing. Quirky touches - such as sea urchins 

mounted in bird cages - blend into the more standard 

maritime-themed décor, giving patrons plenty to look at while 

waiting for their meals, which will inevitably be some kind of 

fish and/or seafood platter. A highly recommendable experience 

in every regard. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JB 



La Pasteria Trg Svetog Tripuna, tel. +382 32 32 22 69. 

Right opposite the cathedral and with great views from the 

terrace, this Italian restaurant serves breakfast till 14:00, 

and has lepinja bread sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, meat and 

fish dishes and pancakes on the menu. At night the candlelit 

tables form the best dining spot in town - reservations recommended. 

QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PABW 

Luna Rossa Stari Grad 423/424, tel. +382 32 32 24 

58, www.montecristo.co.me. Set on the ground floor 

of the same 13th century palace as Hotel Monte Cristo, 

while seated at one of the sturdy wooden and wrought-iron 

tables in the pretty little square outside you’d be forgiven for 

thinking you were in a village in the Tuscan countryside. The 

menu is focussed but appetising, and gives you the feeling 

that every single dish has earned its spot on the page, with 

New York steaks and seafood kebabs among those making 

the cut with various other Montenegrin and Mediterranean 

specialities. Try to get one of the tables on the small terrace 

upstairs, which offers the most romantic dining in Kotor. 

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJB 

Royal Trg od oružja, Stari grad, tel. +382 32 31 10 00, 

www.royal.cattarohotel.com. Housed in what was formerly 

part of the Napoleon Theatre, so named because it was 

specially built for the pint-sized emperor while Montenegro 

was part of his Adriatic territories, dining at Royal is indeed 

a royal experience. Designed to recreate the atmosphere 

present during Napoleon’s time, the main hall has a noticeably 

Baroque feel to it, with the most prominent feature being 

the large classically painted portraits covering the walls. Try 

to request a table on the balcony outside, it only has room 

for 16, but offers the best views of the main square. QOpen 

08:00 - 24:00. ABW 

2012 

55


There’s lots to explore in Kotor’s old town 

Stari Mlini Ljuta bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35 

55, www.starimlini.com. Seven kilometres north of the 

old town, the Old Mill (built in 1776) sits prettily beside the 

gurgling Ljuta river which springs from an impressive gorge. 

It’s well worth the trip, as the food is at least as good as the 

setting, with wonderful, fresh local fish and meat dishes, 

bread and wine. Perhaps the best dining in the bay. QOpen 

10:00 - 24:00. PALB 

Vardar Stari grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, www. 

hotelvardar.com. Three parts beige and one part red 

leather, the interior here exudes sophistication, as does the 

separate cigar lounge down the hall for those who wish to 

indulge with some of Cuba’s (preferably accompanied by some 

of Scotland’s) finest prior to or after their meal. Diners have 

an eclectic menu to choose from, which includes Mexican, 

curry and modern Montenegrin dishes among others, and 

are helped in their selection by a steady soundtrack of softly 

played electronic music. We usually stop by for a light lunch - 

the gourmet sandwiches are mouthwatering, as are many of 

the starters - followed by arguably the best espresso in town. 

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. ABW 

Nightlife 

If anything, nightlife in Kotor is loud. Damn loud. After dark, 

every quaint little alley in town reverberates to the not-sosophisticated 

thumping of local techno anthems. Squares 

get packed with well-dressed people drinking beer and 

cocktails. It’s quite something. 

Bars 

Cesare Stari Grad 327, tel. +382 32 32 59 13, admcesare@t-com.me. 

With a light Roman Empire theme - think 

Julius’ head in the logo and Latin mottos above the bar - Cesare 

is currently Kotor’s most popular bar. On weekend nights 

the dance floor fills with well-dressed people partying to live 

music. Come earlier to enjoy the food, the menu includes 

Italian and Montenegrin dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, 

Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PAEBW 

Citadella Stari Grad 433, tel. +382 67 24 98 17, www. 

cattarohotel.com. Part of the Cattaro-Maximus complex, in 

the summer there is no better place to grab a coffee or light 

snack during the day or a drink at night, than the Citadella 

open bar. Something like a rooftop bar, only in this case the 

rooftop in question is actually the fortifications that surround 

Kotor’s old town, offering great views both out towards the bay 

(you’re almost on top of the cruise ships when the dock) and 

to the ramparts above the town. It has a capacity of around 

400, and some nights feels like it exceeds even that. QOpen 

08:00 - 01:00. PAEB 

Evergreen Pjaca od Cirkula, Stari grad. The closest thing 

that Kotor has to a jazz club, they even have live concerts 

from time to time, usually outside on the square during summer 

or at festivals. Located next to the Maritime Museum 

and opposite Hostel Montenegro, it’s a popular destination 

for guests of the latter. They also do basic Italian food and 

sandwiches, but it feels decidedly more like a pub or a café 

than a restaurant to us. QOpen 08:00:24:00. 

Roma Pub Trg od Salate, tel. +382 69 239 368. A 

relatively new pub on a smaller square in the south of the old 

town, a bit removed from the more touristy places. It draws 

a youngish crowd of backpackers, budget travellers and the 

like, with a few locals usually thrown into the mix for good 

measure. A fine place to enjoy a cold draught beer during the 

hot summer months, or stay warm with some spirits in the 

bitterly cold winter. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. JBW 

Clubs 

Maximus Stari Grad 232, Trg od Oružja, tel. +382 67 

21 67 67, www.discomaximus.com. Depending upon who 

you talk to Maximus is either the best club in Montenegro, 

the best club in Europe or the best club in the world, and we 

can’t think of any good reason to disagree with any of these 

opinions. This massive complex is literally built right into the 

walls of Kotor’s old and is a feat of both engineering, design 

and architecture, with a mind-boggling capacity of around 

4000 clubbers. Several dance floors, bars and lounges are 

located across three-levels, each equipped with state-ofthe-art 

technology but possessing its own distinct vibe. 

Maximus hosts big names throughout the year, but things 

get the craziest in August during the annual Refresh Music 

Festival. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun. 

Admission €5-6. PAE 

What to see 

Kotor has a small, atmospheric old town jam-packed with 

lovely low-key sights and tiny alleys with scraggy cats in 

the bins. Kotor’s magical location comes at a price, and 

earthquakes have devastated the city more than once - 

the last violent one was in 1979. Each time Kotor has been 

rebuilt, and it’s not easy to say what’s original and what’s 

not - which in itself is a compliment to the restoration 

crews. 

Clock Tower Trg od Oružja, Stari Grad. Construction on 

the main square’s hulking clock tower was started in 1602 

and combined Baroque and Gothic architecture. But, this 

being the Balkans, it still was not finished when the 1667 

earthquake struck, causing the tower to tilt. After the 1979 

quake, history was finally set straight and it was rebuilt (and 

completed) in upright position. 

Maritime Museum (Pomorski Muzej) Trg Grgurina, 

Stari Grad, tel. +382 (0)32 30 47 20, www.museummaritimum.com. 

One glance at the mountains around town 

and you’ll see the importance of seafaring history for Kotor. 

The rambling Grgurina palace has models of pot-bellied local 

trader’s ships, maps, period rooms recreating a merchant’s 

office and a warship interior, Dutch and English nautical instruments 

and guidebooks and halls full of old weapons. There’s 

also a display on the 1918 mutiny here on the Austrian navy’s 

warship St. Georg. Look for the display of painted bottles, 

used by seamen to send desperate messages to their 

beloved ones back home. A Kotor secret is revealed here, 

as one of the rooms has a surprising view of a lush rooftop 

garden. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun 18:00 - 

23:00. Admission €4, includes audioguide. 


Old Town Ruins While most of the buildings in Kotor’s 

old town were gloriously restored at some point over the 

past three decades following the massive earthquake of 

1979, here and there you can still find reminders of just how 

devastating this disaster actually was. Cracked, roofless 

and completely overgrown, but still standing defiantly, these 

classical ruins offer an interesting contrast to the rest of 

Kotor and most other Venetian towns elsewhere along the 

Adriatic. Our single favourite is the old church just inside the 

southernmost gate, which you can really get a good look at 

by hiking up the steep stairs to the left, but other photogenic 

specimens can be found in the east of town along the less 

touristy pathways leading upwards. 

St Luke’s Church (Crkva Svetog Luke) Trg Sv. 

Luke, Stari Grad. Opposite St. Nicholas’ Church, this pretty, 

small church was built in 1195 by Mauro Kacafrangi and his 

wife Bona. ‚for the salvation of their souls’. They must have 

done something right, because it’s the only building in town 

that survived the 1979 earthquake undamaged. Inside there 

are two altars, for Catholic and Orthodox believers, and the 

floor is paved with gravestones as people were buried here 

until the 1930s. 

St Mary’s Church (Crkva Svete Marije) Trg Sv. 

Marije od Rijeke, Stari Grad. A small 14th century church 

on the foundations of a much older church. The interior reveals 

some 17th century frescoes and an exquisite 14th century 

wooden crucifix. 

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva Svetog Nikole) Trg 

Sv. Nikola, Stari Grad. The gloomy Orthodox St Nicholas’ 

Church has shafts of sunlight piercing through the devote 

atmosphere, with believers lighting up sputtering candles in 

front of the soot-stained icon screen. 

St Triphon’s Cathedral (Katedrala Svetog Tripuna) 

Trg od Katedrala, Stari Grad. The most impressive church in 

town is the 12th century St. Triphon’s Cathedral, overlooking a 

pretty square and framed by the massive mountains behind. 

Consecrated in 1166, it’s undergone enough restoration 

projects to make even a British property buyer dizzy. The 

façade and towers were rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1667 

earthquake. The impressive Romanesque interior has beautiful 

original architectural features and a few surviving 14th 

century frescoes. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission €1. 

Nature has slowly started to reclaim this ruined church just 

inside the old town’s southernmost gate 


Fortifications 

Shopping 


The 4.5 kilometres of ramparts and walls surrounding the 

city and creeping up Sv. Ivana hill are Kotor’s landmark 

feature. A fortress has crowned the hill since Illyrian 

and Byzantine times, but the massive defence system 

you see now was first planned in the 13th century, and 

was added to by the by the Venetians and Austrians. It 

remained in use, on and off, until the end of the Second 

World War. The walls are 20m high and 16m thick in 

some places. 

The lower town is surrounded by a partly restored wall 

with Venetian-era and older towers, and bastions named 

Gurdic, Korner, Valijer, Citadela (now a café), Bembo (a 

theatre) and Riva. Three gates give access to the old 

town, the main Sea Gate from 1555 (then accessing 

directly to the quay), the northern gate from 1540 with a 

bridge across the Skurda river, and the 17th-19th century 

southern gate with a bridge across the Gurdic river. 

Above Kotor, the city walls zigzag to the ruined hilltop 

Sv. Ivana fortress, 260m above sea level. Two steep 

staircases (one near Sv. Marija, the other close to the 

cathedral) make their way up the hill, past the Lady of 

Salvation church (Crkva Gospe od Spasa), halfway up. 

The fortress can be visited, though it’s best to avoid the 

hottest hours of the day. Bring plenty of water and mind 

your step - the fortress is in a pretty bad shape despite 

renovations. The fantastic views from the top over the 

bay and the gorge directly behind the fortress are worth 

the struggle up. 

Shopping centres 

Kamelija Shopping Centar Trg Mata Petrovića, tel. 

+382 32 33 53 80, info@kamelija.me, www.kamelija. 

me. Seamlessly combining a an ancient villa with a larger 

modern wing, Kamelija first opened its doors to the public 

in the 1980s, and has recently received a complete renovation 

to bring it into the 21st century. Various shops, cafés 

and other services can be found on its air-conditioned three 

floors, with the majority catering to those in need of clothing, 

shoes or other fashion items. There‘s also a pharmacy and 

well-stocked grocery store on the ground floor. Just north of 

the old town walls, parking is free for a time corresponding to 

how much you purchase. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. 

Souvenirs 

Kotorska Suvenirnica Trg Svetog Luke, tel. +382 69 

68 50 18. The old town‘s largest souvenir shop stocks the 

standard selection of postcards, magnets, shot glasses 

and various other trinkets that tourists like to buy for underwhelmed 

people back home. However, if you really want to 

impress friends and family with something special, ask the 

manager to show you some of the most exclusive items on 

hand, which include rare antique lead soldiers that are the 

only of their kind in the Balkans, icons blessed by local priests, 

and what we were told was an authentic Faberge egg. Credit 

cards and secured bank transfers gladly accepted! QOpen 

09:00 - 22:00. 

montenegro.inyourpocket.com 

2012 

57

58 direCtory 

Banks 

Komercijalna banka E-3, Podkošljun bb, tel. +382 33 

42 63 00, www.kombankbd.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, 

Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 

Prva Banka B-3, Mediteranska 5, tel. +382 33 40 39 

36, www.prvabankacg.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 

08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 

Beauty & Wellness 

Energy Clinic A-4, Mediteranska 2 (Hotel Avala), tel. 

+382 33 44 10 00, www.energyclinic.com. QOpen 

09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 

Hospitals & Clinics 

Dom zdravlja Budva D-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, tel. +382 

33 45 35 01, dzb@t-com.me, www.dialysiscenter.me. 

Insurance 

Uniqa D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 33 00, 

www.uniqa.me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, 

Sun. 

Laundry 

Pingvin C-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 41 11. 

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 

Mail 

Main Post Office (Pošta Crne Gore) C-3, Mediteranska 

8, tel. +382 33 45 24 01, www.postacg.me. Also at 

Sports 

Budva Tennis Center E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. 

+32 68 41 50 41. Q Open: June - August 07:00-00:00, 

September - May 08:00-22:00. 

Montenegro Adventure Centre G-1, Lapčići bb, 

tel. +382 67 58 06 64, www.montenegrofly.com. 

Paragliding and tandem flights, cycling, mountain biking, 

walking, trekking, rafting, canyoning. 

Montenegro Paragliding J-2, Slobode bb, Sveti 

Stefan, tel. +382 67 81 10 91. Pragliding jumps from 

Brajići (760m), for €60 (transport from and to you place of 

stay included), CD with your jump video gratis. 

Positive Fitness Club E/F-2, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. 

+382 68 40 20 30. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 

Water Sport E-4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 67 

62 24 36, www.watersportbudva.com. Different water 

sport activities, such as: jet ski, parasailing, speed boats, 

fly-fish, banana, tire etc. Also in MC Marina (Old Town) and 

Splendid Hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 

the Bus station, as well as Podkošljun, Bečići and Sveti Stefan. 

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 

Mobile Phones 

Telenor B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 69 11 88, 

budva@telenor.me, www.telenor.me. QOpen 08:00 - 

20:00. Closed Sun. 

T-Mobile B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 67 15 00, 

call.centar@telekom.me, www.t-mobile.me. QOpen 

08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 

Pharmacies 

Aponia C-2, Popa Jola Zeca, Sportski centar 11, tel. 

+382 33 45 50 82. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. 


beAuty And Wellness 

PurA vidA dAily sPA 

Full range of beauty treatments as well as 

on-call and yacht services. Porto Montenegro 

Village – Zeta, Tivat, puravida-spa.com, tel.: 

+382 (0)63 240 202 

hAirdressers 

vlAdo hAir design 

Cut, color and styling for both men and 

women. Porto Montenegro Village – Zeta, 

Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)67 300 768 

oPtiCiAns 

oPtiKA oKo 

Stocking the latest designer sunglasses. 

Porto Montenegro Village – Tara, Tivat, tel.: 

+382 (0)69 792 222 

PhArMACies 

MAxiMA 

Porto Montenegro Village - Teuta, Tivat, tel.: 

+382 (0)32 540 240 


62 index 

26th Theatre City 47 

Admiral 18 

Adria D.M.C. 10 

Afrodita 50 

Aleksandar 35 

Alexandra 23 

Amon 8 

Aponia 58 

Aquarius 18 

Arena 40 

Astoria 16, 27, 52 

Avala 16 

Babaluu 27 

Bambini 50 

Bambola 50 

Bečići 42 

Bella 23 

Bella Vista 16 

Bojana 26 

Bon Voyage 10 

Bruno 27 

Budva Marina 45 

Budva Tennis Center 58 

Bujković 26 

Bus station 52 

Camp Tipi Hostel 22 

Captain 24 

Casper Bar 38 

Cattaro 52 

Cesare 56 

Chest O'Shea's Irish Pub 38 

Church of St John the Baptist 44 

Church of St Mary of Punta 44 

Church of St Sabas the 

Sanctified 44 

Church of the Holy Trinity 44 

Citadella 56 

City Car 10 

City Club 27 

Contessa 24 

daMonte 24 

Dancing Girl Statue 46 

De Mode Shop 50 

Dimpex 10 

Discoteque Trocadero 40 

Dona Kod Nikole 27 

D & R 27 

Early Christian Basilica 45 

El Mundo Cocktail Bar 40 

Energy Clinic 58 

Euromoda 50 

Evergreen 56 

Fineso 20 

Fontana 20 

Fortaleza 40 

Forza Cattaro 53 

Forza Mare 52 

Fratello 27 

Galion 55 

Garden Caffe 28 

GG Souvenir Shop 50 

Grbalj 20 

Greco 38 

Grill Bašta Lim 28 

Guvance 42 

Hacienda 40 

Hello 10 

Hemingway 28 

Hong Kong 28 

Horošo (Xорошо) 36 

Iberostar Bellevue 16 

Invest Montenegro 24 

Jadran 28 

Jaz 42 

Jeff 38 

Juice Bar 28 

Kamelija Shopping Centar 57 

Kamenovo 42 

Kangaroo 20 

Komercijalna banka 58 

Konoba Feral 30 

Konoba Galeb 30 

Konoba Stari Grad 30 

Korkovado 40 

Kosmač Fortress 47 

Kotorska Suvenirnica 57 

Kovačević 24, 26 

Kužina 30 

La Bocca 31 

La Pasteria 55 

Lisca 50 

Lord 31 

Luna Rossa 55 

Lux 24 

Maestral 16 

Magic 10 

Main Post Office (Pošta Crne 

Gore) 58 

Maltez 40 

Maradona 10 30 

Maroje Travel 10 

Maximus 56 

Max Prestige 20 

MB IceClub 40 

Mediteran 18 

Mega Sport 51 

Mena 20 

Miković 26 

Miločer 43 

Mistica 50 

Mixage 10 

Mogren 20, 43 

Mogren Fortress Ruins 46 

Mojo Budva 22 

Mona Lisa 31 

Monte Cristo 53 

Monteline Travel 10 

Montenegro 18 

Montenegro Adventure Centre 58 

Montenegro Airlines 8 

Montenegro Cruising 10 

Montenegro Hostel Budva 22 

Montenegro Hostel Kotor 54 

Montenegro Paragliding 58 

Moto Club BU-2 36 

Mozart 36 

Oaza 22 

Obala 31 

Odissey 22 

Oko 50 

Old Fisherman's Pub 31 

Old Time Watch Shop 51 

Old Town Hostel 54 

Olimp 32 

Oliva 22 

Open Art Studio 46 

Oregon 26 

O Sole Mio 32 

Pablo Picasso 32 

Palazzo Radomiri 53 

Paradiso 50 

Paradiso Outlet 50 

Parma 32 

Perla 32 

Perović 26 

Pilon 10 

Pingvin 58 

Pivnica Nik Gold 32 

Pizana 43 

Pizzeria Lav 32 

Plaža Café 36 

Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom 

Podgorica) 8 

Polini 50 

Porto 34 

Porto Pizana 34 

Positive Fitness Club 58 

Praskvica Monastery 48 

Promenade Food Stalls 30 

Prometheus 10 

Prva Banka 58 

Pržno 43 

Queen of Montenegro 18 

Rabello 34 

Residence 18 

Ričardova Glava 43 

Roman Necropolis 46 

Roma Pub 56 

R-Tours 10 

Šajo 22 

Saki 24 

Salus 24 

Sambra 34 

San Marino 34 

Shanghai 34 

Silver Holiday 10 

Sixt 10 

Sky Light 34 

Slava 10 

Slovenska Plaža 18, 43 

Sparta 40 

Splendido 53 

Stević 26 

Suđić 26 

Sun Hostel 23 

Sveti Nikola Island 43, 48 

Svetionik 26 

Sveti Stefan 43 

Talas M 10 

Tatjana 26 

Telenor 58 

Tenero Fashion 50 

Terrae 10 

Terrae Car 10 

The Citadel 47 

The Prince 40 

Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) 8 

T-Mobile 58 

Tomy 26 

Top Hill 40 

Tourist Information Office 53 

Tourist Organization of Budva 

(Info Point 1) 8 














(Turistička organizacija Budve) 8 

Travel Centar 10 

Tri Ribara 35 

Trocadero Open Bar 40 

Tropico 35 

Tuš Jewelry 51 

Unico 50 

Uniqa 58 

Vardar 54, 56 

Velžon 26 

Vila Balkan 26 

Vila Panonija 54 

Villa Centar 26 

Villa Duomo 54 

Water Sport 58 

Women's Store 50 

Zeleni Gaj 35 

Zlatibor 35

The budva Riviera Theatre City Sveti Stefan Kotor - In Your Pocket

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