The budva Riviera Theatre City Sveti Stefan Kotor - In Your Pocket
The budva Riviera Theatre City Sveti Stefan Kotor - In Your Pocket
The budva Riviera Theatre City Sveti Stefan Kotor - In Your Pocket
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
N°1<br />
Complimentary copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>budva</strong><br />
<strong>In</strong>cluding<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong><br />
2012<br />
“<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>: A cheeky, well-<br />
written series of guidebooks.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> New York Times<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>budva</strong> <strong>Riviera</strong><br />
Some of the Adriatic’s best beaches<br />
can be found in and around Budva<br />
<strong>The</strong>atre <strong>City</strong><br />
A city-wide open-air performing arts<br />
festival like none other in the region<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong><br />
Follow in the footsteps of the world’s<br />
most glamourous holidaymakers
Choose Prva!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
For all that matters<br />
Choose Prva!<br />
Branch Oces<br />
Budva<br />
Branch Oce Budva, Mediteranska St. 5<br />
Toward hotel Avala resort & Spa Villas<br />
Counter Splendid, Conference & Spa resort<br />
Bečići bb<br />
Tivat<br />
Branch Oce Tivat, Pine bb<br />
<strong>City</strong> promenade<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong><br />
Branch Oce <strong>Kotor</strong>, Trg od oružja bb<br />
Main Old Town Square<br />
ATMs<br />
Budva<br />
Mediteranska St. 5, Branch Oce Budva<br />
Toward hotel Avala resort & Spa Villas<br />
Mediteranska St. 8, Main Post Oce Budva<br />
Toward hotel Avala resort & Spa Villas<br />
Bečići, Splendid Conference & Spa resort<br />
Reception<br />
Bečići, Splendid Conference & Spa resort<br />
Counter<br />
Petrovac bb, Post Oce<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong><br />
Trg od oružja bb, Branch Oce <strong>Kotor</strong><br />
Main Old Town Square<br />
Hotel Cattaro – Maximus<br />
Prvoboraca St. 232, Casino Win<br />
Tivat<br />
Pine bb, Branch Oce Tivat<br />
<strong>City</strong> promenade
4 Contents<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving & Getting Around 8<br />
Transportation and tourist info<br />
<strong>The</strong> Basics 12<br />
Budva by the numbers and more<br />
History 15<br />
Mythological founding to independence<br />
Language 15<br />
Basics for eating, drinking and getting around<br />
Where to stay 16<br />
Exclusive resorts to basic apartments<br />
Restaurants 27<br />
Meat-lovers rejoice, vegetarians beware<br />
Unlike our cover photo, you won’t need your own flying<br />
machine to get a shot from this angle, photo by Aleksandar<br />
Jaredić<br />
<strong>The</strong> famed <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> resort island is only a few<br />
kilometres south of Budva, photo courtesy of the Tourist<br />
Organisation of Budva<br />
Cafés 36<br />
Get your caffeine fix or start drinking early<br />
Nightlife 38<br />
Beach bars, pubs and one enormous club<br />
Beaches 42<br />
A full guide to Budva’s raison d’être<br />
Sightseeing 44<br />
<strong>The</strong> old town, <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> and more<br />
Shopping 50<br />
Exclusive shopping at Porto Montenegro<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong> 52<br />
A UNESCO heritage site unlike any other<br />
Directory 58<br />
SIM cards, laundry and everything in between<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
Budva <strong>Riviera</strong> map 59<br />
<strong>City</strong> centre map 60<br />
<strong>In</strong>dex 62<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
PORTO MONTENEGRO<br />
T H E ME D’S LE ADING LUXUR Y YACHT<br />
H O M E P ORT AN D MAR I N A VILLAGE<br />
INTERNATIONAL SHOPPING<br />
NAVAL HERITAGE COLLECTION<br />
CHILDREN’S PLAYGROUND PIRATE SHIP<br />
WATERFRONT DINING<br />
WATER SPORTS<br />
PUROBEACH POOL & BAR<br />
+382 (0)32 660 900 or info@portomontenegro.com<br />
www.portomontenegro.com
6 Foreword<br />
It’s with great honour and satisfaction that we proudly<br />
bring you the first edition of Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>, just in<br />
time for the 2012 summer season. <strong>In</strong> the following pages<br />
you will (hopefully) find everything you need to know<br />
about the city before and during your stay in the undisputed<br />
capital of Montenegro’s Adriatic coast. It’s with<br />
good reason that Budva is nicknamed the Montenegrin<br />
Miami, as the beach takes centre stage here, the nightlife<br />
is by far the best in the entire region and every year<br />
more of the world’s elite jet setters flock here for a taste<br />
of everything the Budva <strong>Riviera</strong> has to offer. That said,<br />
don’t fret if you’re not fortunate enough to count yourself<br />
among the ultra-wealthy or prefer culture to clubbing, as<br />
the city offers something for every budget and boasts<br />
enough sights to keep even veteran travellers satisfied.<br />
We’ve also made sure to include a few of Budva’s world<br />
famous neighbours, namely the fortified island resort<br />
town of <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>, and <strong>Kotor</strong>, a UNESCO Heritage<br />
site on one of the Mediterranean’s most breathtaking<br />
bays. Thanks to all the welcoming, proud, friendly, drunk,<br />
knowledgeable, helpful locals who assisted us while we<br />
were painstakingly researching the guide at Budva’s<br />
many beaches, bars and restaurants - as they say, it’s<br />
tough work, but someone’s got to do it! If you have any<br />
questions, comments or suggestions we welcome any<br />
and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter<br />
or even old-fashioned email.<br />
Cover story<br />
Dominated by the bell tower of St John the Baptist<br />
Church, what Budva’s old town lacks in square metres<br />
it makes up for with centuries of historical intrigue,<br />
reminders of which can be found around nearly every<br />
corner. <strong>In</strong> our humble opinion, wandering aimless down<br />
the beautifully restored alleyways is one of the most<br />
pleasant ways to pass your time at the coast. Throw in a<br />
couple of beaches with azure waves lapping against the<br />
ancient city walls, a few atmospheric bars and several<br />
genuinely homey traditional restaurants and you’ve got<br />
yourself one hell of an old town.<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Moskovska 16, Podgorica<br />
Montenegro<br />
<strong>budva</strong>@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1800-9778<br />
Printed by Golbi Print Podgorica<br />
Published 1 time per year<br />
30,000 copies<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Yuri Barron<br />
Research Adria Management Group<br />
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė<br />
Photos Branka Jovanović, Yuri Barron,<br />
Tourist Organisation of Budva<br />
Cover Tourist Organisation of Budva<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
General Manager Marko Mirović<br />
marko.mirovic@inyourpocket.com<br />
+382 69 55 67 95<br />
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It was 20 years ago this summer that the first <strong>In</strong><br />
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We now cover more than 75 cities across the<br />
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Editor’s note<br />
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Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
8 Arriving & getting Around<br />
Flights<br />
Tivat <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport is only 8km away, but unless<br />
you’re coming with your own private jet or on one of the frequently<br />
scheduled flights from Russia, you’ll most likely be<br />
arriving at Podgorica Airport, which has many direct flights<br />
to around a dozen or European cities throughout the year.<br />
Buses<br />
Local buses begin and terminate in Mediteranska Street,<br />
directly opposite Perla. Two lines run all the way to <strong>Sveti</strong><br />
<strong>Stefan</strong> and Petrovac, both starting at 06:00 and running<br />
every 15-20 minutes during the summer, with the last<br />
buses back to Budva leaving around midnight. <strong>In</strong> the summer<br />
additional also go to Jaz, Trsteno and Ploče every hour<br />
from 07:00 to 18:00. <strong>In</strong>tercity and international buses are<br />
frequent and surprisingly punctual, with the most common<br />
routes being Hercog Novi, Podgorica and Belgrade. <strong>The</strong>re<br />
are also daily buses to Dubrovnik in the summer, but it’s<br />
advisable to arrive early if you want a ticket.<br />
Cars and Parking<br />
<strong>In</strong> short, driving and parking your own car during the<br />
summer in Budva is a nightmare at best and an absurd<br />
exercise in futility at worst. While having your own car<br />
is great for exploring the countryside and getting to the<br />
beach, make sure to book a hotel with parking and avoid<br />
driving in the city to avoid unnecessary headaches.<br />
Airlines<br />
Montenegro Airlines B-3, Mediteranska 21, tel. +382<br />
33 45 17 35/+382 33 45 62 44, office.podgorica@<br />
mgx.me, www.montenegroairlines.com. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Airports<br />
Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom Podgorica) Golubovci,<br />
tel. +382 20 44 42 44/+382 20 44 42 33, fax +382 20<br />
44 42 21, info@apm.co.me, www.montenegroairports.<br />
com. TGD.<br />
Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) Tivat, tel. +382 32<br />
67 09 60, fax +382 32 67 09 50, dispatch@aptivat.com,<br />
www.montenegroairports.com.<br />
Car Rental<br />
Amon D-1, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 69 43 33<br />
44/+382 33 46 58 12, info@amon-<strong>budva</strong>.me, www.<br />
amon-<strong>budva</strong>.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (Turistička<br />
organizacija Budve) B/C-3, Mediteranska 8/6,<br />
TQ Plaza, tel. +382 33 40 28 14/+382 33 40 28 15,<br />
tob@t-com.me, www.<strong>budva</strong>.travel. Budva’s friendly<br />
tourism office can help with accommodation and travel<br />
tips. It’s located on the 6th floor of TQ Plaza. Check bellow<br />
to see the locations of their info points in town. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (<strong>In</strong>fo Point 1) C-2,<br />
Trg Sunca bb, tel. +382 33 45 34 16, www.<strong>budva</strong>.<br />
travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (<strong>In</strong>fo Point 2)<br />
B-4, Njegoševa 28, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 27<br />
50, www.<strong>budva</strong>.travel. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 14:00.<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (<strong>In</strong>fo Point 3)<br />
C-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, Bus station, tel. +382 68<br />
89 09 24, www.<strong>budva</strong>.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Open: June - September<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (<strong>In</strong>fo Point 4)<br />
E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 69 26 78 12, www.<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
June - August<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (<strong>In</strong>fo Point 5)<br />
J-2, Rafailovići bb, tel. +382 69 63 35 91, www.<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.travel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
June - August<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (<strong>In</strong>fo Point 6) J-2,<br />
Pržno bb, tel. +382 69 14 53 11, www.<strong>budva</strong>.travel.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. June - August<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva (<strong>In</strong>fo Point 7)<br />
J-2, <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>, www.<strong>budva</strong>.travel. Find all the information<br />
you need in Cipa and Levantin travel agencies.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. June - August.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
10 Arriving & getting Around<br />
Bon Voyage H-2, Bečići bb, tel. +382 67 35 03<br />
33/+382 68 81 21 00, info@bonvoyage-rentacar.com,<br />
www.bonvoyage-rentacar.com.<br />
<strong>City</strong> Car B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 69 01 16 00/+382<br />
67 61 16 00, www.rentacarcity.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Dimpex C-3, Južni bulevar bb, tel. +382 69 38 95<br />
01/+382 69 02 76 32, dimpex@t-com.me, www.<br />
rentacardimpex.com.<br />
Magic E-3, CDF Podkošljun bb, tel. +382 33 40 17<br />
30/+382 67 60 63 14, magic.rentacar@t-com.me.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00.<br />
Mixage E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 89<br />
18/+382 67 45 67 67, mixage@t-com.me, www.mixage.me.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Sixt D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 67 64 52 01, office@sixt.co.me,<br />
www.sixt.co.me. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Terrae Car B/C-3, Mediteranska bb (TQ Plaza), tel.<br />
+382 67 24 88 99/+382 69 44 43 34, terrae-car@t-com.<br />
me, www.terraecar.com. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
Travel Agencies<br />
Adria D.M.C. C-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, tel. +382 33 45<br />
51 81/+382 33 45 51 82, adriaex@t-com.me. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Maroje Travel B-1, tel. +382 33 45 42 19/+382 69 55<br />
43 96, marojebd@t-com.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Monteline Travel D-3, Hotel Slovenska plaža, tel. +382<br />
33 45 26 07, monteline@t-com.me, www.montelinetravel.<br />
com. Trips around Montenegro. QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.<br />
Montenegro Cruising H-2, Bečići bb, tel. +382 68 82<br />
13 00/+382 33 47 18 91, marketing@montenegrocruising.com,<br />
www.montenegrocruising.com. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 11:00 15-:00-21:00.<br />
Taxis<br />
Although size-wise Budva is a town that can easily be covered<br />
on foot, walking around in oppressive summer heat is a far<br />
from pleasurable experience. Luckily, Budva’s taxis are plentiful,<br />
comfortable and even cheap if you call one of the more<br />
reputable companies we’ve listed here. Hailing one on the<br />
street, especially at taxi ranks, almost guarantees you’ll be<br />
overcharged at least two or three times the going rate.<br />
Hello Tel. +382 195 55.<br />
Slava Tel. +382 197 15/+382 68 01 97 15 (sms).<br />
19715<br />
Terrae Tel. +382 197 17, terrae-car@t-com.me,<br />
www.terraecar.com.<br />
Pilon C-3, 22 Novembra bb, tel. +382 33 45 21 26/+382<br />
69 25 64 44, pilon@t-com.me, www.pilontravel.com.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Prometheus E-1, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 31<br />
22/+382 69 34 56 64, prometheus@t-com.me, www.montenegro.prometheus-travel.com.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.<br />
R-Tours E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 15 02,<br />
rtoursbd@t-com.me, www.r-tours.me. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Silver Holiday C-1, I Proleterske S52, tel. +382 33 45<br />
20 05, mneotpusk@gmail.com, www.silverholiday.me.<br />
Q Open: Mon - Sat 08:00-13:00 and 16:00-21:00<br />
Talas M C-1, I Proleterske S53, tel. +382 33 40 25<br />
40/+382 33 40 38 60, booking@talas-montenegro.com,<br />
www.talas-m.co.me. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Travel Centar E-3, Lugovi bb, tel. +382 33 45 97 06,<br />
tc@t-com.me, www.tc-montenegro.com. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
12 BAsiCs<br />
We’ll make sure to send Hello Kitty a few copies of the<br />
guide, so this little girl can get some free swag from them<br />
Communism<br />
<strong>The</strong> communist era was a dark age for many countries<br />
in Europe, but many older people in Montenegro fondly<br />
tell stories of how good it was when called each other<br />
comrade (druže) and lived in the Socialist Federal Republic<br />
of Yugoslavia, a country with something to say on the world<br />
stage. But apart from some statues and buildings, the visible<br />
communist legacy is disappearing fast.<br />
Driving<br />
Getting around the country by car is relatively fast and<br />
efficient, though driving can be manic; beware of daredevils<br />
overtaking on blind corners. <strong>The</strong> maximum speed<br />
in Montenegro is 50km/hr in towns and villages, 80km/hr<br />
on other roads unless indicated otherwise, which is strictly<br />
enforced around Budva - especially on the stretch of road<br />
into town from the airport.<br />
Electricity<br />
Montenegrin domestic electricity is 220V AC, 50 Hertz,<br />
supplied through standard European two-pin sockets.<br />
Gay & Lesbian<br />
<strong>The</strong> Balkan paternalistic macho culture is strong in<br />
Montenegro, with men expected to be chunky and manly,<br />
and women to be elegant and dependent. Public displays of<br />
homosexuality are not tolerated and gay visitors should be<br />
Climate<br />
Purchasing power<br />
How far does your euro, pound or dollar go?<br />
Taxi from airport to city centre €10<br />
Espresso €1-1.50<br />
Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €2-2.5<br />
Mineral water (1.5 litre) €0.50<br />
Mars bar €0.50<br />
Exchange rates<br />
1 EUR € = 1.27 US$ = 0.81 UK£ = 1.20 CHF =<br />
(21 June 2012)<br />
8.08 CNY = 101 ¥ = 41 руб<br />
careful to avoid hostile reactions. Even in the international<br />
resort town of Budva there’s little tolerance, and there are<br />
as yet no gay bars or clubs.<br />
Mobile Phones<br />
While a mobile phone from your home country should have<br />
no problem roaming on Montenegro’s networks, to avoid bill<br />
shock after you return it’s best to get a local Montenegrin<br />
number, even if you don’t plan to make many calls. As a<br />
point of reference, we once paid nearly €3 per minute to<br />
make calls from our Slovenian number. SIM cards from all<br />
the major carriers can be purchased at any of the numerous<br />
phone shops or post offices around town for only a few<br />
euros (ID required).<br />
Money<br />
Montenegro’s official currency is the euro (€), with notes<br />
coming in the standard denominations between €5 and €500,<br />
while coins are worth between €0.01 and €2. Montenegro<br />
unilaterally decided to switch from the Yugoslav dinar to<br />
the German mark in 1999, and adopted the euro when the<br />
currency was introduced in 2002. Although Montenegro<br />
doesn’t have a monetary agreement with the European<br />
Central Bank and does not have issuing rights, the EU does<br />
not object to Montenegro using it. Euros are best obtained<br />
from ATMs where EU account holders should be charged the<br />
same transaction fees as in their home country.<br />
Registration<br />
Foreigners spending the night in Montenegro officially<br />
need to be registered. All hotels and registered private<br />
accommodations take care of this for you. However, if you’re<br />
staying in the latter double check that the owner has done<br />
so, as you can have problems exiting the country if this was<br />
not the case.<br />
Religion<br />
<strong>The</strong> major religion in Montenegro is Orthodox Christianity.<br />
Other important religious communities are Muslims,<br />
especially in the Albanian-inhabited area around Ulcinj, and<br />
Catholics.<br />
Safety<br />
Budva is a peaceful place and visitors should take no<br />
more precautions than for other European cities. With a<br />
prevalent and youthful café culture, alcohol poisoning and/<br />
or falling in love with a local are currently the biggest threats<br />
to foreigners.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
14 BAsiCs<br />
balkans<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Covering 70 cities and towns in nine<br />
Balkan countries, <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> offers<br />
unparalleled access to travel information<br />
and foreign travellers. Whether<br />
you’re planning a business/leisure<br />
trip, or if you’re looking to advertise to<br />
travellers with money to spend, <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> is the city guide series for you.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Smoking<br />
Visitors to restaurants and bars will see plenty of nosmoking<br />
signs and a number of non-smoking areas, but<br />
unfortunately the locals’ rebellious spirit and tobacco<br />
addictions mean that these are widely ignored. If you’re<br />
a foreign smoker it’s not uncommon for waiters to<br />
accommodate you by bringing a small dish rather than a<br />
proper ashtray, which limits their risk of fine in the event<br />
that an inspector is lurking about.<br />
Visas<br />
For stays of up to 90 days, visas are not required for<br />
citizens of the EU, western and many other countries. All<br />
others need a visa, although those with valid Schengen<br />
(EU) visas or US visas may stay visa-free for up to seven<br />
days.<br />
Water<br />
While tap water is officially safe to drink in Budva,<br />
bottled water is widely available, and as far as we’re<br />
concerned it’s better to be safe than sorry whilst on<br />
holiday. You can support the local economy by buying good<br />
Montenegrin brands like Aqua Bianca, Aqua Monta and<br />
Suza.<br />
Vice<br />
Prostitution and drug use are illegal in Montenegro, and<br />
plain-clothes police officers won’t have any second thoughts<br />
about arresting and charging foreigners who are looking to<br />
have a little too much fun.<br />
Montenegro by the numbers<br />
Population<br />
Montenegro 620,029, Budva 19,218 (2011)<br />
Territory<br />
13,812 square kilometres<br />
Borders<br />
Adriatic 293km Albania 172km Bosnia 255km<br />
Croatia 14km Kosovo 60km Serbia 143km<br />
Longest river<br />
Tara (Drina) 144km (110km in Montenegro)<br />
Largest lake<br />
Skadar 370-530 square kilometres (shared with<br />
Albania. Size depends on water level)<br />
Highest point<br />
Bobotov Kuk (Durmitor) 2,523m<br />
Longest beach:<br />
Velika Plaža, Ulcinj 13km<br />
UNESCO World Heritage sites<br />
Durmitor National Park, <strong>Kotor</strong> old town, <strong>Kotor</strong> Bay,<br />
Tara Canyon<br />
Local time<br />
GMT+1 Daylight saving time between the last Sundays<br />
of March and October.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Budva is considered one of the oldest settlements on the<br />
Adriatic coast, with vast archeological evidence suggesting<br />
that it had already developed into an urban area as early<br />
as 500 BC. But of course like many - if not most - ancient<br />
Mediterranean towns, Budva also has a founding mythology<br />
that goes back even further.<br />
Legend has it that the Phoenician prince Cadmus and his<br />
wife Harmonia landed near modern Budva after having fled<br />
from <strong>The</strong>bes, which he had founded some years earlier after<br />
consulting the oracle at Delphi and following a special cow<br />
all the way to Egypt. Before you laugh, know that Budva has<br />
an even stronger bovine connection, as Cadmus‘ mode of<br />
transport on his flight from <strong>The</strong>bes was oxen, which in Greek<br />
are called ‚bous‘, from which Budva‘s name was derived.<br />
<strong>In</strong> more archeologically supported terms, Budva was already<br />
inhabited by the Illyrians prior to the 5th century BC, when<br />
it was described in one of the plays of famed Greek tragedian<br />
Sophocles. <strong>The</strong> following century it developed into a<br />
wealthy Hellenist trading centre and colonised by the Greeks<br />
for several hundred years. <strong>The</strong> prosperity it enjoyed during<br />
this period made it an attractive takeover target for the<br />
expansionist Romans, who gained control of ancient Budva<br />
in the year 168 BC and ruled it continuously for nearly half<br />
a millennium, until their inevitable downfall in 395.<br />
Now boasting grand buildings, paved roads and thick defensive<br />
walls, the city came under the control of the Byzantine at<br />
the beginning of the 6th century, and although this nominally<br />
remained the case well into the 12th century, Slavs began<br />
moving into the area as early as the 7th century and were<br />
Language<br />
<strong>The</strong> locals have recently decided to officially name the<br />
language they speak Montenegrin. This is a dialect of Serbian<br />
that has been promoted as the national language since<br />
independence in 2006, though many locals still declare they<br />
simply speak Serbian. Whatever you want to call it, it’s a south<br />
Slavic language closely linked to others in the region, but with<br />
small variations and an alphabet that has two extra letters.<br />
As in Serbia, both the Latin and Cyrillic can be used to<br />
write Montenegrin, though nearly all texts, street names<br />
and newspapers are in Latin script. While we’re on the<br />
topic of language, note that people from Montenegro are<br />
not Montenegroes as you sometimes see written, but<br />
Montenegrins.<br />
Pronunciation<br />
Č č like ch in church<br />
Ć ć similar to č,- but softer<br />
DŽ dž like g in George<br />
Đ/DJ đ/dj like j in jaw<br />
J j like y in yes<br />
Š š like sh in show<br />
U u like oo in roof<br />
Ž ž like x in luxurious<br />
Niceties & Necessities<br />
Yes Da No Ne<br />
Hello Zdravo Goodbye doviđenja<br />
Good Dobro Please Molim<br />
Thank you Hvala Here you are Izvolite<br />
Good morning Dobro jutro Good day Dobar dan<br />
Good evening Dobro veče Good night Laku noć<br />
Cheers! Živjeli! All the best! Sve najbolje!<br />
Excuse me Oprostite Sorry Izvinite<br />
How are you? Kako si?<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
History<br />
already a well-established ethnic group by 841 when the city<br />
was sacked the Saracens.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1186, Budva fell under Serbian control for the first time,<br />
and remained part of the Nemanjić dynasty until the Venetians<br />
came at the beginning of the 15th century. Between<br />
then and the downfall of the Most Serene Republic in 1797,<br />
Budva‘s old town took the form for which it is still famous<br />
to this day.<br />
As with most of Europe, the turn of the 19th century was a<br />
tumultuous time for Budva, as control passed between the<br />
empires of Venice, Austria, Russia and France in a period<br />
of only a single decade, before finally falling back to the<br />
Austrians, under whom Budva stayed for over a century<br />
until Serbian and Montenegrin independence finally came<br />
in 1918 at the end of WWI.<br />
From this point onwards, Budva‘s history converges with<br />
that of modern Montenegro‘s, first becoming a part of<br />
the Kingdom of Serbs. Croats and Slovenes and later the<br />
Kingdom of Yugoslavia during the interwar period, before<br />
emerging as one of the six constituent republics of social<br />
Yugoslavia after WWII.<br />
After the infamous breakup of Yugoslavia began in 1990,<br />
Montenegro stuck out the union longer than others, only<br />
beginning to sever ties with Belgrade in 1996, officially<br />
dropping the Yugoslavia moniker in 2003 and finally gaining<br />
full independence after a referendum in 2006 - making<br />
Montenegro either the second, third or fourth youngest state<br />
in the world depending on your calculations.<br />
Practicalities<br />
My name is... Moje ime je…<br />
I’m from... Ja sam iz…<br />
...UK ...Velika Britanija<br />
...USA ...Amerika<br />
I don’t understand Ne razumijem<br />
I don’t speak... Ne govorim...<br />
... Montenegrin/Serbian Crnogorski/Srpski<br />
What’s your name? Kako se ti zoveš?/Kako ti je ime?<br />
A ticket, please Kartu, molim<br />
How much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta?<br />
When? Kada?<br />
Now Sada / Odmah<br />
Where? Gdje?<br />
Here Ovdje<br />
<strong>The</strong>re Tamo<br />
Who? Ko?<br />
Why? Zašto?<br />
What? Šta?<br />
I have... A imam...<br />
I am... Ja sam…<br />
Signs<br />
Open Otvoreno Closed Zatvoreno<br />
Entrance Ulaz Exit Izlaz<br />
Push Guraj Pull Vuci<br />
No smoking Zabranjeno pušenje<br />
Numbers<br />
0 - nula<br />
1 - jedan<br />
2 - dva<br />
3 - tri<br />
2012<br />
15
16 wHere to stAy<br />
Budva has thousands of beds, creaking under the weight<br />
of Russian and other tourists in summer, but mainly used<br />
by conference guests in winter.<br />
Upmarket<br />
Aman <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> J-2, <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> bb, tel. +382 33 42 00<br />
00, fax +382 33 42 02 22, amansvetistefan@amanresorts.<br />
com, www.amanresorts.com. <strong>The</strong> jewel of Montenegro’s<br />
Adriatic coast and perhaps the most exquisite island in the entire<br />
Mediterranean (a bold statement to be sure, but one that we<br />
sincerely mean), some people are understandably disappointed<br />
when they discover that <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> is actually a private resort<br />
island, which is no longer open to the public. However, for those<br />
who can afford to stay in one of the 50 extensively renovated and<br />
uniquely designed rooms, cottages or suites that now occupy the<br />
bulk of the island’s buildings, the experience is simply otherworldly.<br />
A further eight suites are also available at the nearby Villa Miločer<br />
on the mainland, which was formerly the summer residence of<br />
the royal family and the first of the two properties to open in<br />
2009. For those without bank balances large enough to cover<br />
even the modestly priced rooms (€750 per night, minimum three<br />
nights in July and August), take heart! You can still use the public<br />
beach located just opposite the island’s southeastern walls.<br />
PARIFLBKDCW<br />
Astoria B-4, Njegoševa 4, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 11<br />
10/+382 69 77 55 11, fax +382 33 45 12 15, <strong>budva</strong>@<br />
astoriamontenegro.com, www.astoriamontenegro.com.<br />
<strong>The</strong> only boutique hotel in Budva’s well-preserved old town,<br />
Astoria is truly in a class of its own, exquisitely combining<br />
modern minimalist Mediterranean-influenced interior design<br />
with the original architectural elements of the centuries-old<br />
noble house in which it is located. <strong>The</strong> service is of course<br />
excellent, as is the restaurant, which opens perhaps the best<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms<br />
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection<br />
terrace in the city on the building’s rooftop overlooking the<br />
sea during the summer months. Booking well in advance is<br />
recommended, as the six rooms and six larger suites here<br />
are constantly in high demand. Q 12 rooms (singles €190-<br />
220, doubles €230-260, triples €300, suites €290-420<br />
from May - Sept, €95-120, €120-150, €170, €170-230 from<br />
Oct - April). PJAKW<br />
Avala A-4, Mediteranska 2, tel. +382 33 44 10 00, fax<br />
+382 33 44 15 26, reservations@avalaresort.com, www.<br />
avalaresort.com. Modern clashes with traditional where this<br />
huge hotel and spa resort meets Budva’s old town. Right on the<br />
beach beside the city walls, its large and elegant rooms look<br />
out on the Adriatic Sea or the mountains. Spacious and sophisticated,<br />
yet simple and peaceful. Q 297 rooms (singles €175-<br />
188, doubles €210-256, apartments €290-435 in July and Aug,<br />
€88-176, €112-224, €190-390 from Sept - May, Penthouse<br />
€3,500) 67 villas €288-448 in July and August, €176-392 from<br />
Sept - May. POHAUFLGKDCW<br />
Bella Vista H-2, Bečići bb, tel. +382 33 47 13 77/+382<br />
33 47 13 78, bellavista@t-com.me, www.bellavista.me.<br />
<strong>The</strong> name is not a misnomer, as most rooms here boast<br />
balconies with unobstructed sea views, and the only thing<br />
separating guest from the beach is some 90m of grass and<br />
trees. As the majority of accommodation is in the form of<br />
apartments and even the standard rooms have kitchenettes<br />
and ample space, this place really feels more like a residence<br />
than a classic hotel, making it a perfect choice for those seeking<br />
the privacy of the former with all of the advantages of the<br />
latter. Q 44 rooms and apartments (singles €69, doubles<br />
€94-98, apartments €138-248 in July and Aug, €43-52, €58-<br />
74, €81-196 in May-June and Sept-Oct). ALKW<br />
Iberostar Bellevue H-2, Bečići, tel. +382 33 42 51 00, fax<br />
+382 33 42 51 25, reservations@iberostar.co.me, www.<br />
iberostar.com. An all-inclusive package hotel beside Bečići<br />
beach, the Iberostar Bellevue ships in foreigners by the planeload<br />
to enjoy the beautiful gardens, swimming pools, and decent<br />
rooms. Many guests are happy to stay in the hotel perimeter for<br />
days, using the tennis and basketball courts to stay slim. Q 562<br />
rooms (doubles €182-228). PTHAUFLGKDC<br />
Maestral J-2, Pržno, <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>, tel. +382 33 41 01 09,<br />
fax +382 33 41 01 90, hotel@maestral.info, www.maestral.<br />
info. Across the bay beside the old fishing village of Pržno, the<br />
luxury Maestral hotel offers fantastic views across to Budva. <strong>The</strong><br />
recently renovated four-star wonder has stunning interiors as<br />
well as a brand new wing for even more exclusive guests. Expect<br />
spacious suites, lush gardens, a good beach out front and great<br />
views. Q 214 rooms (singles €135-251, doubles €180-662,<br />
apartments €432-1920, exclusive apartments €960-5000 from<br />
June - Aug, €79-129, €106-342, €248-1240, €650-5,000 from<br />
Sept - May). POTHAUFLGKDCW<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
18 wHere to stAy<br />
Hotel Listings Policy<br />
Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical<br />
order within that band. <strong>The</strong> price band refers<br />
to the rack rate for a double room.<br />
Mediteran H-2, Bečići, tel. +382 33 47 18 45/+382<br />
33 47 18 46, prodaja@hotelmediteran.info, www.hotelmediteran.info.<br />
A short walk from the beach, this huge<br />
four-star hotel complex is popular with both sun-worshippers<br />
and conference-goers. Beautiful and comfortable rooms,<br />
great service and an excellent wellness centre go a long way<br />
to make you feel like royalty. Top that with an amazing aqua<br />
park with indoor pool, and you are in for a great experience.<br />
Q 230 rooms (singles €156-190, doubles €184-224 in July<br />
and Aug, €74-106, €114-164 from Apr - June and Sept - Oct).<br />
PTHAFLGKDCW<br />
Montenegro H-2, Bečići, tel. +382 33 77 37 73, fax<br />
+382 33 45 12 39, reservations@montenegrostars.com,<br />
www.montenegrostars.com. Located right beside sandy<br />
Becici beach, this hotel is paradise for tourists coming to unwind<br />
and relax - though as the hotel offers a multitude of summery<br />
activities, you won’t be spending much time in the elegant<br />
rooms. <strong>The</strong> hotel staff is welcoming and hospitable. Find it<br />
two kilometres south of central Budva. Closed during winter.<br />
Q 172 rooms (singles €154-174, doubles €206-232, apartments<br />
€316-346 in July and Aug, €88-141, €118-188, €228-<br />
346 from Sept - June). POHAUFLGKDCW<br />
Queen of Montenegro H-2, Narodnog fronta bb, Bečići,<br />
tel. +382 33 66 26 62/+382 33 66 26 17, fax +382<br />
33 66 26 33, hotel@queenofmontenegro.com, www.<br />
queenofmontenegro.com. With a beautiful restaurant terrace<br />
and infinity pool overlooking the beach, well-designed<br />
interiors and efficient rooms and suites, the large Queen of<br />
Montenegro hotel is luxurious yet quite simple. For those<br />
who like to play there is an abundance of activities you can<br />
participate in, including gambling. Q 232 rooms (singles<br />
€120-159, doubles €168-210, apartments €198-423 in July<br />
and Aug, €74-102, €103-158, €118-297 from Sept - May).<br />
POTHAUFLGKDCW<br />
Not quite as famous as the Dancing Girl statue, the<br />
Golden Lady lamp is unarguably more functional, photo<br />
by B. Jovanović<br />
Residence Jadranski put bb, Miločer, tel. +382 33 42 71<br />
00, sales@hecmontenegro.com, www.residencemontenegro.com.<br />
We won’t lie, once we knew that this place had a<br />
rooftop swimming pool and bar with panoramic views of Pržno<br />
beach, it was love before first sight. Three of our favourite things<br />
(pools, views and alcohol) all in the same place, are you kidding<br />
us? However, this place doesn’t miss a beat below roof-level<br />
either, as the rooms and apartments are truly deserving of<br />
the label luxurious, the exceedingly professional members of<br />
staff speak English fluently and the location is unbeatable. Q 8<br />
rooms and 21 suites (singles €170, doubles €198, suites €190-<br />
298, deluxe suites €278-338). PTHALKCW<br />
Slovenska Plaža D-3, Trg Slobode 1, tel. +382 33 45<br />
16 54/+382 33 45 12 67, slplaza@t-com.me, www.<br />
hg<strong>budva</strong>nskarivijera.com. A city within a city, this sprawling<br />
Mediterranean-style resort has nearly 1000 rooms and<br />
apartments (no, those three zeros are not a typo), with various<br />
shops, restaurants, bars, activity centres and much more<br />
contained within its labyrinth of identical-looking streets and<br />
alleyways - but only during the peak summer season. You can<br />
tell that this was formerly one of the top destinations on the<br />
coast for Yugoslavian holiday-makers, and while recent years<br />
have brought some much needed (and ongoing) renovations,<br />
it’s still fallen a bit behind the times. ALKCW<br />
Splendid (Splendid Conference & Spa Resort) H-2,<br />
Bečići bb, tel. +382 33 77 37 77/+382 33 77 47 74,<br />
fax +382 33 77 37 57, reservations@montenegrostars.<br />
com, www.montenegrostars.com. <strong>The</strong> brightest star of<br />
the Montenegro Stars chain completely dominates Becici<br />
Beach. It’s the most luxurious hotel in the country and has<br />
everything you may need, including special business, wedding<br />
and spa packages. With indoor and outdoor pools, a spa<br />
(www.splendidspa-montenegro.com), a conference centre,<br />
spacious halls, tastefully decorated rooms and several bars<br />
and restaurants (including a Japanese one), there’s no doubt<br />
that the Splendid is indeed splendid. Q 341 rooms (singles<br />
€288-436, doubles €384-582 in July and Aug, €160-315,<br />
€214-420 from Sept - May), apartments €600-830 in July<br />
and Aug, €350-650 from Setp - May, Penthouse €4,000,<br />
Presidential €7,000 per apartment. POTHAU<br />
FLKDCW<br />
Mid-range<br />
Admiral E-3, Jadranski Put bb, tel. +382 33 45 92<br />
63/+382 68 88 50 03, info@hoteladmiral<strong>budva</strong>.com,<br />
www.hoteladmiral<strong>budva</strong>.com. Although it’s often lumped<br />
together with some of the other hulking monstrosities along<br />
the Montenegrin coast, Admiral has aged better than most,<br />
and relatively recent renovations have made the place one<br />
of the more popular options for budget conscious travellers<br />
looking for a bit of luxury. Large flat screen TVs, an outdoor<br />
swimming pool and one of the friendliest staffs around all<br />
help its case. Q 32 rooms (singles €55, doubles €90 from<br />
June - Sept, €30, €50 from Oct - Apr). LKW<br />
Aquarius C-3, Zmajeva 8, tel. +382 33 40 27 16/+382 69<br />
91 91 91, aquarius<strong>budva</strong>@gmail.com, www.hotelaquarius<strong>budva</strong>.com.<br />
Originally a well-regarded family-run restaurant,<br />
over the past couple of decades the place has expanded to a<br />
full-fledged medium-sized hotel with some three dozen rooms<br />
and apartments. <strong>The</strong> two studio apartments are probably the<br />
best deal of the lot, as the huge covered terraces are nearly as<br />
large as the rooms themselves, while the regular apartments on<br />
the top floor may give sufferers of claustrophobia fits due to the<br />
low sloping ceilings. <strong>The</strong> restaurant is of course still open and<br />
still quite good. Q 33 rooms (€20-40 in July and Aug, €15-25<br />
from Sept - May, per person). LKW<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
20 wHere to stAy<br />
Blue Star D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 42<br />
31 00/+382 33 77 37 77, fax +382 33 42 31 12,<br />
rbluestar@montenegrostars.co.me, www.montenegrostars.com.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Blue Star is one of the smaller hotels<br />
the Montenegro Stars chain, but profiled as a business<br />
hotel and located just 500 metres from Budva’s Old Town<br />
it’s well-placed for both business and leisure trips. With<br />
comfortable rooms, friendly service and a lovely restaurant,<br />
it’s a quiet option compared to the larger hotels in town. Q<br />
23 rooms (singles €96-116, doubles €148-178 in July and<br />
August, €64-116, €98-178 from Sept - June), 2 apartments<br />
€99 in July and Aug, €79-99 from Sept - June per person.<br />
PHA6UGKW<br />
Fineso D-2, Mainski Put bb, tel. +382 33 45 41<br />
20/+382 69 02 24 38, fax +382 33 45 38 50, www.<br />
hotelfineso.com. A smallish family-run hotel housed in<br />
a new three-floor building smack in the centre of town,<br />
within walking distance of everywhere you need to go, all<br />
rooms have balconies, parking is always available and<br />
from what we’ve experienced the service is a notch or<br />
two above what you can expect at similarly priced hotels.<br />
Tennis players will also want to note that they can make<br />
arrangements for guests at some well-kept courts nearby.<br />
Q 17 rooms. LW<br />
Fontana B-3, Slovenska Obala 23, tel. +382 33 45<br />
21 53/+382 69 08 11 20, fontana.lekic@t-com.<br />
me. This narrow three-floor building offers nine cramped<br />
rooms, which from the looks of the place were built while<br />
Yugoslavia was still a unified country - although to be<br />
we’ve never confirmed this with the staff. But that’s not<br />
to say it’s completely without its charms. One person’s<br />
cramped is another person’s cosy, and the location in<br />
the green space separating the waterfront from the the<br />
newer part of town is undeniably prime. <strong>The</strong> service also<br />
generally gets good marks, as does the restaurant on<br />
the ground floor. Q 9 rooms (singles €40, doubles €60).<br />
ALKW<br />
Grbalj C-2, Trg Sunca bb, tel./fax +382 33 45 23 00,<br />
tel. +382 69 53 81 32, hotelgrbalj@t-com.me, www.<br />
hotelgrbalj.com. <strong>The</strong> family-run Grbalj has been welcoming<br />
guests to Budva and ensuring them a pleasurable stay for<br />
nearly two decades now. Located within walking distance of<br />
most places worth walking to, it’s still far enough away from<br />
the open-air bars and clubs that you can enjoy some peace<br />
and quiet and get a good night’s sleep if that’s what you’re<br />
after. <strong>The</strong>re’s ample parking in back for guests and good<br />
restaurant on the ground floor. Q 18 rooms (singles €45,<br />
doubles €60, triples €90, apartments €120 in July & Aug,<br />
€35/€50/€75/€100 from Sept - June). LKW<br />
Kangaroo E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 86 53,<br />
fax +382 33 46 02 33, reservation@kangaroo.co.me,<br />
www.kangaroo.co.me. A classic ‚you get what you pay<br />
for’ hotel, which in this case is prime location location with<br />
free parking and rooms that are completely adequate. Don’t<br />
expect any frills and the service can be a bit - how should we<br />
put it? - unenthusiastic at times (especially for non-Serbian<br />
speakers), but in terms of value its not bad. Q 32 rooms<br />
(singles €32, doubles €64, triples €96). HLKW<br />
Max Prestige E/F-3, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 33<br />
45 83 30, fax +382 33 45 83 50, maxprestige@t-com.<br />
me, www.hotelmaxprestige.com. Although its name<br />
sounds like something that would be chosen by Homer<br />
Simpson, if we suppress our sarcastic instincts and look<br />
at things objectively, the place does definitely possess an<br />
above average level of prestige. Looking like something<br />
that would be more at home located on a secluded bluff<br />
overlooking the sea, its somewhat residential location is<br />
a bit odd, but once inside it does have an oasis-type feel<br />
to it. Large elegantly designed rooms, even larger suites<br />
(some with 2-floors), and a sprawling outdoor poll and<br />
lounge area remind you that your money has been wellspent.<br />
Q 11 rooms (singles €100, doubles €118 in July and<br />
August, €58-73, €78-98 from Sept - June), 8 apartments<br />
€69 in July and Aug, €49-59 from Sept - June per person.<br />
PTALKDCW<br />
Mena E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 93<br />
10/+382 69 02 76 32, hotelmena@t-com.me, www.<br />
hotelmena.com. A decent medium-sized hotel that gives you<br />
the impression that they genuinely care about making their<br />
guests feel comfortable, the rooms here are kept thoroughly<br />
tidy and everything seems to run how it should. Parking is<br />
available in an underground garage. Not the kind of place you’ll<br />
be gushing to your friends about back home, but you will most<br />
certainly have a pleasant stay. Q 20 rooms (doubles €53<br />
from June - Aug, €43 from Sept - May). ALKW<br />
Mogren B-4, Slovenska obala, tel. +382 33 45<br />
11 02/+382 33 40 15 12, fax +382 33 45 27 95,<br />
hotelmogren@t-com.me, www.mogrenhotel.com. If<br />
your main aim is to get a taste of what it was like to go on<br />
holiday in Yugoslavia, during simpler times when the world<br />
was divided into black and white, everyone had a job, celebrities<br />
were actually talented and everything was easier,<br />
then a night or three at Hotel Morgen is definitely in your<br />
cards. What we’re trying to say is this place is old. Some<br />
people view it as a romantic throwback, while others are<br />
inclined to less lofty assessments. We’ll let you decide.<br />
Q 49 rooms (singles €40-70, doubles €60-90, triples €90-<br />
135, apartments €80-140). HLKW<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
22 wHere to stAy<br />
Oaza B-3, Slovenska obala 27, tel. +382 33 45<br />
22 15/+382 69 02 47 56, fax +382 33 40 26 09,<br />
oaza<strong>budva</strong>@t-com.me, www.oaza.co.me. Taking its<br />
name from the peaceful green surroundings that somehow<br />
manage to keep it hidden despite being only metres from the<br />
promenade and main city beach, Oaza is a classic of the Montenegrin<br />
<strong>Riviera</strong> and equally recommendable for its location,<br />
service and overall ambience. Some rooms come with both<br />
a standard bathroom and a second one containing a jacuzzi,<br />
while we prefer staying in the larger studio apartments. Q 15<br />
rooms & apartments €15-40 per person. ALKW<br />
Odissey A-4, Jadranski Put bb, tel. +382 33 46 37 07/+382<br />
69 22 23 37, fax +382 33 46 37 09, info@hotelodisey.<br />
com, www.hotelodisey.com. A palatial modern structure, the<br />
Odisey (or Odissey as it is also sometimes spelled) looks oddly<br />
out of place on a thoroughly unexciting stretch of road leading<br />
from Budva to the airport. We spent a not insignificant amount<br />
of time trying to think of advantages to staying here rather than<br />
somewhere in or at least closer to the city, but this proved more<br />
difficult than we had imagined - which is not to say that the rooms<br />
are not spectacular or undercut the merits of having a casino on<br />
the premises. Q 18 rooms (doubles €70 in July and Aug, €50-60<br />
from Sept - June). ALBKW<br />
Oliva E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45 94 29.<br />
Don’t come here expecting anything that could be properly<br />
described with the word modern, but this is a homey hotel<br />
if there every was one, as the proprietor Branko will go out<br />
of his way to make guests feel like at home. <strong>The</strong> expansive<br />
terrace out back is shaded by some perfectly mangled old<br />
olive trees, and is the best setting to sample some of the<br />
restaurant’s fine traditional cuisine. Rooms vary quite a bit,<br />
so make sure to ask what’s available. Q 15 rooms (doubles<br />
€70 in July and Aug, €58 in June and Sept). LKW<br />
Regina Elena E-3, 29th Novembra 20, tel. +382 33 45<br />
92 55/+382 68 11 77 77, hotelreginaelena1@gmail.com,<br />
www.reginaelena.me. One of the most underrated hotels in<br />
Budva, the Regina Elena has won our affection by virtue of its<br />
high ceilings (which we love), a large rooftop terrace and bar<br />
(where you can take your breakfast) and the crème de la crème:<br />
a small swimming pool on an even higher section of the roof,<br />
from where you can take in glorious views of the city, work on<br />
your tan, enjoy a cold beer and stay cool in the pool - all at the<br />
same time! And all this within easy walking distance of the<br />
beach for only €30 per person in the high season. Q 32 rooms<br />
(singles €40, doubles €60, in July and August, €22-40, €30-50<br />
from Sept - June), apartments (triples €95, quads €120 in July<br />
and Aug, €45-75, €48-90 from Sept - June). AKCW<br />
Šajo E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 46 02 43/+382<br />
33 46 02 45, fax +381 33 46 02 46, sajohotel@t-com.<br />
me, www.sajohotel.com. A modern business-class hotel<br />
with reasonable prices, Šajo wouldn’t be our first choice of<br />
accommodation in Budva, but you could do a lot worse. On the<br />
other hand, if you need a large conference room there’s one<br />
here on the top floor that’s recently been renovated. For those<br />
that appreciate having some extra space to stretch out, the<br />
apartments are a great value for only €10 more than standard<br />
doubles. When booking any room, make sure to request a sea<br />
view, as there’s no extra charge. Q 18 rooms (singles €113,<br />
doubles €142-152 in July and August, €77-106, €96-132 from<br />
Sept - June), 8 apartments €81 in July and Aug, €58-71 from<br />
Sept - June per person. PHFLGKDCW<br />
Hostels<br />
Camp Tipi Hostel A-4, Lastva Grabaljska, tel. +382<br />
69 55 48 27, camptipihostel@gmail.com, www.camptipihostel.com.<br />
Set in the grassy hills above the main road<br />
Budva-Tivat road and only 3km from the famed Jaz Beach,<br />
compared with the rest of the accommodation in and around<br />
Budva this camp (which also includes basic hostel accommodation)<br />
is in the middle of nowhere. Of course this is the<br />
main draw for guests, who come here to escape city life and<br />
explore a bit of the wild Montenegrin countryside. <strong>The</strong> aforementioned<br />
beach has some of the best swimming conditions<br />
on the coast, and the hospitable owner Ivo and his staff are<br />
more than happy to help with any arrangements you need.<br />
Only open from June till August.<br />
Mojo Budva C-3, Vojvođanska 3, tel. +382 69 71 19<br />
86, info@mojo<strong>budva</strong>.com, www.mojo<strong>budva</strong>.com. A hybrid<br />
hostel/budget hotel, solo travellers can book singles beds in<br />
the triple and 4-bed rooms, but it seems most guests come<br />
here for cheap private accommodation. If you are looking to<br />
socialise, there’s lots of communal space here, including a sun<br />
terrace, barbecue pit, inside lounge area and our favourite a<br />
hammock garden. It’s located very near to the massive new<br />
TQ Plaza shopping centre, but still seems to give some people<br />
fits finding it - check the map carefully when booking.<br />
Montenegro Hostel Budva B-4, Vuka Karadžića 12, Stari<br />
grad, tel. +382 69 03 97 51, montenegrohostel@gmail.<br />
com, www.montenegrohostel.com. Having opened the first<br />
proper hostels in <strong>Kotor</strong>, Podgorica and also here in Budva, the<br />
owners of this place know a thing or two about operating high<br />
quality backpacker and budget friendly accommodation. <strong>The</strong><br />
location in the very centre of the old town couldn’t be better, and<br />
the all of the extras - including a huge common room on the top<br />
floor - give this place an edge over the competition. <strong>The</strong> en suite<br />
private rooms in a nearby building are some of the best value<br />
beds in Budva, and also let you take advantage of all the facilities<br />
and services in the main building. Q 5 rooms (1 double €30-50,<br />
1 triple €45-60, dorm beds €12-20). W<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Sun Hostel E-2, Ferona bb, tel. +382 69 76 92 12,<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.sunhostels@gmail.com, www.sunhostels.com.<br />
While we were first tempted to say that this wasn’t really<br />
a hostel in our book due to a lack of dorms - single, double<br />
and triple rooms are all they have - we humbly had to change<br />
our minds after finding a preponderance of evidence to the<br />
contrary. Aside from its Hostelling <strong>In</strong>ternational membership,<br />
the large kitchen and common room, and the fact that you can<br />
book single beds in the triple rooms, the overall vibe here is<br />
decidedly backpacker-oriented. A bit tricky to find if you don’t<br />
know the town, it’s not as inconvenient as it first seems once<br />
you’re familiar with the surroundings. Q 24 rooms (singles<br />
€15-40, doubles €20-44, triples €27-60).<br />
Apartments<br />
Alexandra E-2, 20 Novembra bb, tel. +382 67 25 74<br />
06/+382 67 24 10 00, appalexandra@gmail.com, www.<br />
apartmani-alexandra.com. Set within a stone’s throw of<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
wHere to stAy<br />
some great local grill restaurants, in the middle of Budva’s<br />
so-called ‚Hotel Street’, the nine studio apartments and<br />
one larger unit that sleeps up to eight people are basic but<br />
adequate for your typical beach holiday. All apartments come<br />
with a kitchen, air conditioning and a small cable TV, and must<br />
be rented for a minimum of one week during the peak of high<br />
season (ie 1 July - 20 August). Q 10 apartments (€40-145<br />
in July and Aug, €25-85 from Sept - May). L<br />
Bella B-4, Vrzdak 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 24<br />
39/+382 67 40 39 40. Four medium-sized apartments<br />
situated in a beautifully restored building just off a leafy green<br />
square in the old town. <strong>The</strong> most pleasant aspect has to be<br />
the cosy little terraces that are perfect for a morning coffee or<br />
an evening drink (although the lack of a kitchen definitely makes<br />
the former more difficult). Early birds and light sleepers may<br />
find the late night parties at the open air bars just outside the<br />
walls a minor inconvenience during the high season. Q 4 apartments<br />
(€60-90 in July & August, €40-60 September - June).<br />
2012<br />
23
24 wHere to stAy<br />
Butua B-2, Nikole Tesle 11, tel. +382 33 40 20 26/+382<br />
33 40 20 27, www.apartmanibutua.com. When it was<br />
founded by an exiled Phoenician prince and his wife some<br />
2500 years ago it was called Butua, from which both the<br />
modern name is derived. However, the name is the only thing<br />
not modern about Batua Apartments. Set in the middle of<br />
the city, the modern five-floor complex contains spacious<br />
apartments, as well as single, double and triple rooms. <strong>In</strong><br />
addition to all the standard amenities and excellent professional<br />
service, it is the only building in Budva that is officially<br />
registered as completely accessible for physically disabled<br />
persons. Q ULW<br />
Captain D-2, 13. Jula bb, tel. +382 67 58 75 87. Right in<br />
the city centre but still (mostly) surrounded by greenery, these<br />
apartments score highly for their convenient location, cleanliness<br />
and personal attentive staff and managers - although<br />
if you are staying out of season you should arrange an exact<br />
check-in time in advance, as the place is not full staffed. <strong>The</strong><br />
rooms also range from tiny to extremely spacious, so choose<br />
carefully when booking.<br />
Contessa B-2, Maksima gorkog bb, tel. +382 33 45 12<br />
63/+382 68 86 87 77, www.contessa<strong>budva</strong>.me. Another<br />
excellent example of how apartments should be designed,<br />
furnished and operated. Located slightly up the hill to the west<br />
of downtown, the views are magnificent, the furnishings are<br />
of reasonably high quality and unobtrusive and the prices<br />
some of the best around. <strong>The</strong> building is also stunning from<br />
the outside and has a couple of large common terraces that<br />
are great for socialising at breakfast time or in the evening.<br />
Q 10 apartments (€48-86 in July & August, €35-59 in June<br />
& September, €25-50 October - May). Prices 30% higher if<br />
staying less than 3 nights. PAL<br />
daMonte B-2, Topliški put bb, tel. +382 33 40 30<br />
64/+382 67 66 96 85, apartmani@damonte.me, www.<br />
damonte.me. <strong>The</strong> apartments here are like a breath of fresh<br />
air - quite literally as they’re set at the base of the hill to the<br />
northwest of the city centre - when compared to many of<br />
the others in town that were blatantly just thrown together<br />
to make a quick profit. Although the website doesn’t boast<br />
of spacious, luxurious rooms (as many of their competitors<br />
falsely do), both terms apply here in spades. <strong>In</strong> short, this<br />
family-run property is easily one of the better accommodation<br />
options in Budva. W<br />
smjestaj, izleti, <strong>In</strong>vest Montenegro rent B-2, a Topliški car, Put bb, festivali,<br />
tel. +382 33<br />
45 56 42/+382 69 36 68 76, office@investmontenegro.com,<br />
www.investmontenegro.com. With dozens of<br />
apartments and other properties for both holiday and longer<br />
term rental in Budva and elsewhere along Montenegro’s<br />
breathtaking Mediterranean coast, <strong>In</strong>vest Montenegro is<br />
sure to have something for every budget and taste. <strong>The</strong>ir<br />
rental units are careful selected to provide quality and value<br />
for money, thoroughly cleaned and serviced prior to your arrival.<br />
As their name suggests, these are also the people to<br />
talk to if you’re interested in investing in property anywhere<br />
in the country.<br />
Lux B-4, Vuka Karadžića 1, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45<br />
43 54/+382 69 03 94 38, melita@t-com.me, www.<br />
luxapartman.com. This will probably sound a lot worse<br />
than we intend it to, but whoever chose the name of this<br />
place has a different understanding of the words ‚lux’, ‚luxury’<br />
and ‚luxurious’ than we do, as none of those terms came to<br />
mind when we saw the place. On the plus side, the location<br />
just inside the old town walls is great, and the views of the<br />
harbour from the balcony of the second floor apartment are<br />
a boat-lovers dream.<br />
Pima B-2, Prešernova 3, tel. +382 67 55 83 24, www.<br />
pima.me. Offering both rooms and apartments, as well as<br />
friendly personal service both at check in and during your<br />
stay, this place really has the feel of a family-run hotel or<br />
guesthouse. <strong>The</strong>re’s a pleasant enclosed garden in the back,<br />
with citrus trees and plenty of tables to sit at and relax in the<br />
shade. Book one of the two apartments upstairs (suitable for<br />
four or more people) if you’d like a terrace with a sea view.<br />
Saki F-2, IV Proleterske bb, tel. +382 33 45 85<br />
65/+382 67 36 80 65, sakiadrovic@yahoo.com, www.<br />
saki-apartmani.com. Located in the far north of town in the<br />
Lazi district, the premises include 14 apartments that sleep<br />
between two and six people in a modern four-floor building.<br />
<strong>The</strong> owner and host, Saki Andrović, is a friendly fellow that<br />
goes out of his way to make guests feel welcome and can<br />
arrange pretty much any activity or trip that you’re interested<br />
in - especially if it involves a trip on his fishing boat. <strong>The</strong> beach<br />
is only a 10 minute or so walk downhill, and a taxi back should<br />
only cost a few euros. If you decide to spend the evening in to<br />
play billiard, table tennis or just relax in the courtyard, dinner<br />
can be arranged for only €5 per person. Q 14 apartments<br />
(€25-90). LW<br />
Salus B-2, Nikole Tesle 13, tel. +382 33 45 18 43/+382<br />
69 22 16 21, salus@t-com.me, www.apartmanisalus.<br />
me. Salus offers a combination of fully-furnished rooms and<br />
apartments right in the heart of the city centre, some of which<br />
even have sea views. Each of the apartments has its own<br />
kitchen, and the larger 3-bedroom units can comfortably sleep<br />
up to nine people. While Budva is by no means a dangerous<br />
town, the building is under video surveillance for added security,<br />
and in case of water shortages it has its own reserve<br />
supply. Q 27 rooms and apartments. LW<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
<br />
<br />
Hoteli<br />
Charter<br />
Izleti<br />
Privatni<br />
smještaj<br />
Rent a car<br />
Cetinjski put bb | 81000 Podgorica<br />
Tel./Fax: 00382 20 511 200
26 wHere to stAy<br />
Vidikovac A-4, Vidikovac bb, tel. +382 33 45 18<br />
56/+382 69 17 28 37, vidikovac@mail.ru, www.<br />
vidikovac. me. Although we genuinely try to avoid hyperbole<br />
and unnecessarily inflating expectations whenever possible,<br />
it’s without hesitation that we implore you to stop what you’re<br />
doing right now and book a room here - even if you don’t have<br />
tickets to Montenegro yet, a stay here alone is worth a trip to<br />
Budva. Elegantly designed rooms, unbeatable views of the<br />
old town from large terraces, and free use of the swimming<br />
pool, jacuzzi and sauna, all at prices that would still be a good<br />
value if they were twice as high, set Vidikovac apart from its<br />
peers. Q 21 apartments (doubles €85, triples €105, quads<br />
€125 in July and Aug, €40-65, €45-80, €50-105 from Sept -<br />
May). LDCW<br />
For an highly developed resort town, Budva has a<br />
surprising amount of green space, photo by B. Jovanović<br />
Vila Spas A-4, Vidikovac bb, tel. +382 67 21 17 71,<br />
vilaspas.com@gmail.com, www.vilaspas.com. Perched<br />
on the hill overlooking Mogren Beach just off the road leading<br />
into Budva from the west, the apartments in this beautiful<br />
stone villa are a great value for those who don’t mind driving<br />
or catching a taxi into the centre. Minimally furnished with a<br />
touch of opulence here and there, while taking in the expansive<br />
sea views from the large terrace you’ll feel like royalty - or at<br />
least we did. Q 9 apartments (€85 from 15 June - 15 Sept,<br />
€70 during low season). PTLW<br />
Private apartments<br />
Bogdanović B-4, Petra I Petrovića 1, Stari grad,<br />
tel. +382 69 61 05 32/+381 63 7 64 19 11, mabramovic@live.com.<br />
W<br />
Bojana C-1, Prve Proleterske 15, tel. +382 33 45<br />
66 68/+382 67 25 12 44, vilabojana@yahoo.com,<br />
www.vila-bojana.com. Q €36-38 in July and August,<br />
€28-30 from September-May. LKCW<br />
Bujković D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 29<br />
29/+382 67 25 74 09, altada@t-com.me. L<br />
Kovačević D/E-3, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45<br />
86 42/+382 67 33 19 68, sandjok@t-com.me. L<br />
Miković B-2, Svetostefanska 1, tel. +382 33 45 28<br />
00/+382 67 81 36 88, jelena452800@yahoo.com,<br />
www.vilamikovic.com. L<br />
Oregon D/E-3, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 33 45<br />
86 02/+382 69 60 47 08, www.oregon.montenegro.com.<br />
Perović E-2, Velji Vinogradi bb, tel. +382 69 36 92<br />
15, vilaperovic@gmail.com. LCW<br />
Stević E-1, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 90<br />
49/+382 69 65 06 71, astevic10@yahoo.com. L<br />
Suđić B-3, 13. Jula 9, tel. +382 33 45 29 62/+382<br />
69 59 64 28, sssudjic@t-com.me. LW<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong>onik J-2, Rafailovići bb, tel. +382 33 40 40<br />
32/+382 69 60 83 08, info@apartmanisvetionik.com,<br />
www.apartmanisvetionik.com. Q Apartments €100-<br />
120 in July and Aug, €40-80 from Sept - May. ALW<br />
Tatjana D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 72<br />
81/+382 69 48 80 77, info@hoteltatjana.com,<br />
www.hoteltatjana.com. Q 34 apartments, €15-20<br />
per person. LCW<br />
Tomy D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 32<br />
88/+382 67 85 24 42, vilatomy@t-com.me. LW<br />
Velžon D-2, Mainski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 45<br />
00/+382 69 32 32 34, vilavelzon@live.com. LW<br />
Vila Balkan B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 40 35<br />
64, info@vilabalkan.me, www.vilabalkan.me. Q 5<br />
apartments. W<br />
Villa Centar D-2, Mainski put 9, tel. +382 33 45<br />
45 19/+382 69 54 94 88, www.vilacentar.com. 9<br />
rooms and apartments. LW<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Adriatic B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 33 45 18 02.<br />
Set a bit away from the action on the promenade but unfortunately<br />
not away from the traffic, Adriatica boasts a large<br />
terrace and an even larger selection of pizzas. <strong>The</strong> menu offers<br />
up choices of pasta, fish and meat dishes as well, but the<br />
pizzas are the main draw here, which you can also take away<br />
or have delivered. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. ABW<br />
Astoria B-4, Njegoševa 3, Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45<br />
11 10, www.astoriamontenegro.com. A trendy restaurant<br />
situated in, and on top of, the hotel of the same name, if the<br />
breathtaking view of the sea and old town from the rooftop<br />
terrace is what brings people here for the first time, it’s the<br />
impeccably prepared and presented cuisine that keeps<br />
them coming back again and again. <strong>The</strong> very wide-ranging<br />
selection of main dishes (from <strong>In</strong>donesian and Thai options<br />
to Mediterranean and Montenegrin to a gourmet take an<br />
classic fish and chips) is complimented by some delectable<br />
starters, absolutely heavenly desserts and a lengthy wine<br />
list. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Babaluu C-3, Mediteranska bb (TQ Plaza), tel. +382 69<br />
04 04 40, babaluubd@gmail.com. All other factors aside,<br />
this is easily the most interesting place we have ever ordered<br />
pasta. <strong>The</strong> menu contains an impressive matrix of different<br />
ingredients and spices, encouraging diners to choose their<br />
own combinations. Of course there are also suggestions for<br />
those not feeling up to the pressure. Located on the ground<br />
floor of the new TQ Centre, Babaluu also serves as a popular<br />
café-cum-trendy bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ALBW<br />
Bruno A-4, Mediteranska 2, tel. +382 33 44 13 98,<br />
bruno@avalaresort.com, www.avalaresort.com. <strong>The</strong><br />
newly opened restaurant at Avala Resort & Villas has already<br />
earned its place on any credible shortlist of the best restaurants<br />
in Montenegro - and would reside near the top if we had<br />
any say in the matter. Approaching perfection in every aspect of<br />
the dining experience, Bruno offers superlative cuisine, service<br />
and ambience. We usually opt for one of the daily specials and<br />
matching wines, as it saves us from having to choose from so<br />
many tempting seasonal dishes on the à la carte menu, but by<br />
all means have a go if you feel up for it. ALW<br />
<strong>City</strong> Club C-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 33 45 24<br />
46/+382 67 20 32 53, cityclub@hotmail.com. Located<br />
opposite TQ Plaza and one of the city’s main taxi ranks<br />
[Editor’s note: see the Getting Around section for our tips<br />
on how not to get ripped off by Budva’s taxi drivers], this<br />
place bakes some half-decent pizza, but the real draw here<br />
is the large terrace where diners can take in the various<br />
happenings at the busy crossroads. <strong>The</strong>y also offer nargilas<br />
(aka water pipes or hookahs), for those looking to puff on<br />
some sweet tasting tobacco after (or in lieu of) their meal.<br />
Q Open: 07:00-02:00 from June-August, 07:00-01:00 from<br />
September-May. ABW<br />
D & R E-4, Jadranski put bb. If you’re staying in the east<br />
part of the city and looking for a cheaper alternative to the<br />
waterfront establishments, head to the roundabout leading<br />
out of town towards Bečići. Of the handful of places situated<br />
there, D & R seems the most popular or is at least the largest.<br />
Settle into the softly lit cavernous interior or choose<br />
a roadside table on the sprawling terrace. <strong>In</strong> the summer,<br />
the smells from the open grill can be hard to resist. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 02:00. LBW<br />
Dona Kod Nikole B-3, Gradska Marina, tel. +381 33<br />
45 15 31. A little sea-worn and rough around the edges,<br />
this place never seems to attract the same kind of crowds<br />
that a couple of its neighbours do. However, we find it to be<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino M Nearest station<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet 6 Animal friendly<br />
V Home Delivery<br />
squarely on the good side of charming, and have always<br />
been a bit put off by elbow room only situations. As for the<br />
food, you can do (much) worse elsewhere, but with so many<br />
similar restaurants vying for your euros it really does often<br />
come down to how you feel about the atmosphere. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. AB<br />
Fratello E-3, 29. Novembra bb, tel. +382 (0)68 20 30<br />
78 <strong>The</strong> hands down winner of our unofficial ‚Restaurant<br />
that is so good we eat there all the time but still feel a little<br />
guilty writing about it because then it won’t be our secret<br />
anymore’ Award is the unassuming shack called Fratello<br />
next to a carwash on the main ring road. Simple, tasty and<br />
inexpensive grilled dishes coupled with friendly service and<br />
an owner who makes patrons’ satisfaction his personal business,<br />
adds up to an experience that is hard to beat. <strong>The</strong>re’s<br />
even a covered terrace down the stairs in the back. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. VBS<br />
If your table were any closer to the sea, you’d be getting<br />
wet!<br />
2012<br />
27
28 restAurAnts<br />
Porto Montenegro<br />
one<br />
<strong>The</strong> perfect place for lounging over cocktails<br />
with spectacular views at the foot of Jetty<br />
One with the private dining area and wine<br />
tasting room. Porto Montenegro Village -<br />
Teuta, Tivat, jettyone.com, tel.: +382 (32)<br />
661 035.<br />
Al Posto giusto<br />
Classic Adriatic – Mediterranean cuisine with<br />
contemporary décor and wood-fired oven<br />
Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, harmonyoftaste.com,<br />
tel.: +382 (0) 69 146 046<br />
Mitsu sushi restAurAnt<br />
Authentic Japanese cuisine and sushi<br />
Porto Montenegro Village - Milena, http://<br />
www.facebook.com/mitsurestaurant, tel.:<br />
067626973<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Garden Caffe B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 33 45<br />
20 90/+382 67 59 06 59, rvadjon@t-com.me, www.<br />
garden-<strong>budva</strong>.com. Low prices, good pizza, cold beer and<br />
live music - what’s not to like? <strong>The</strong> superb setting under the<br />
trees is probably the biggest draw, which by your second<br />
drink will have you forgetting that you’re only a minute’s walk<br />
from both the beach and old town. <strong>The</strong> music is a bit more<br />
mellow during the day, but usually switches over to rock in<br />
the evenings, attracting a crowd more interested in beer<br />
than pizza. If you’re up early they also do fine breakfasts,<br />
and discounts are offered on Sundays. QOpen 07:30 -<br />
01:00. AEBW<br />
Grill Bašta Lim E-4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382<br />
69 02 39 57/+382 69 08 47 36. Another fine beachside<br />
dining option along with its twin next-door neighbour<br />
Pivnica Nik Gold (which shares south wing of the same<br />
building), grill is quite literally the name of the game here,<br />
as evidenced by the large open-air barbecue on the terrace.<br />
Come straight from the beach or after a long day of<br />
sightseeing, but just make sure to come hungry. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 02:00. ABW<br />
Hemingway B-4, Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45<br />
24 00. Named for one of our favourite personalities, if not<br />
writers, of the 20th century, this café restaurant just outside<br />
the old town already had our favour before we ever saw<br />
the place, but luckily there’s a lot to like here. <strong>The</strong> terrace<br />
is a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast in the morning or a<br />
drink in the evening (preferably a daiquiri), and the menu is<br />
reassuringly to the point - with chicken in dill sauce and chili<br />
beef being two of the standouts. For a bit of historical kitsch,<br />
look up for the photo of El Papa greeting a young upstart<br />
Cuban politician called Fidel Castro. Q Open June-Sept<br />
08:00-01:00, Oct-May 08:00-23:00. ABW<br />
Hong Kong B-4, Vuka Karadžića 1, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 33 45 27 25. Amazingly, this Chinese restaurant<br />
started operating in Budva with staff from Hong Kong back<br />
in 1991, and it still happily serves food that is as authentic<br />
as it gets in the Balkans. With a terrace beneath the vines<br />
and overlooked by the city walls, it’s a good place for hungry<br />
tourists to try the stir-fries, noodles and more. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. ABS<br />
Jadran B-3, Slovenska Obala 10, tel. +382 33 45 10<br />
28/+382 69 03 01 80. With all the competition around<br />
it should say something that this place consistently ranks<br />
as or among the best restaurants around, but that said,<br />
don’t blame us if you find that your expectations were too<br />
high. Other than the reputation, we’d be hard-pressed to tell<br />
you what exactly it is that sets this place apart. <strong>The</strong> fish is<br />
fresh, the service professional and prompt and the ambience<br />
that of your classic seaside restaurant. We guess there’s<br />
something to be said for knowing the basics and doing them<br />
well. Q Open June-August 08:00-01:00, September-May<br />
08:00-01:00. ABW<br />
Juice Bar B-4, Vranjak 13, Stai grad, tel. +382 33<br />
45 70 23, juicebar@juicebar.me, www.juicebar.me.<br />
Perhaps it’s the bright orange polo shirts that the staff<br />
wear as well as the matching seat cushions and logotype,<br />
but this place makes us feel healthier just thinking about<br />
it. <strong>The</strong> menu is comprised of a dozen of so different fruit<br />
smoothies, fresh meal-size salads and some other light<br />
snacks, which can be enjoyed in the small (but heavily trafficked<br />
by pedestrians) square outside the Budva Museum<br />
in the old town. <strong>The</strong>y also make all of their own products,<br />
including some absolutely delicious sun-dried tomato bread.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
30 restAurAnts<br />
Konoba Demižana B-4, Slovenska Obala 3, tel. +382<br />
33 45 50 28. If the seemingly countless restaurants along<br />
Budva’s promenade strike you as being much of a muchness<br />
(an impression that would not be entirely unwarranted), rest<br />
assured that this inconspicuous konoba hidden behind a leafy<br />
terrace is not only a cut above the others, but also generally<br />
considered one of the better restaurants on the coast - which<br />
explains why mini-motorcades of diplomatic vehicles from<br />
Podgorica parked outside are not an uncommon sight. Aside<br />
from the ambience, exquisitely prepared fish and seafood is<br />
what attracts the refined masses here, and reservations are<br />
all but required. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AB<br />
Konoba Feral B-4, Trg palmi bb, Stari Grad, tel. +382<br />
69 56 02 32. This unpretentious place in the old town<br />
offers a an excellent selection of fish and seafood dishes<br />
in a homey atmosphere. <strong>In</strong>side the walls are covered with<br />
antique bric-a-brac and an eclectic collection of modern art<br />
(which is all for sale, with the proceeds going to the Orthodox<br />
church), while during the summer months the terrace outside<br />
is completely immersed under a sea of ivy and fishnets. A<br />
sign at the door lists the specials of the day. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00. ABW<br />
Konoba Galeb B-4, Vrzdak 11, Stari grad, tel. +382 33<br />
45 65 46/+382 69 03 79 48. We’re not sure how much it<br />
helps customers with their selection, but we were quite fond<br />
of the poster by the door depicting all of the fish from the<br />
Adriatic. Opened in 1966, Galeb is one of the best known<br />
restaurants in the old town, and a top choice for lovers of all<br />
food originating from the aforementioned sea. <strong>The</strong> 1st floor<br />
terrace offers some much appreciated breathing room from<br />
the bustling foot traffic on the street below, while the downstairs<br />
dining area has its own ambience below the low wooden<br />
beam ceiling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. ABW<br />
Konoba Knez B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 47 50<br />
25/+382 68 04 06 05. A bit on the eccentric side and all<br />
the better for it, this is your classic one-man band type of<br />
establishment, where the owner will welcome you as if you’re<br />
an old friend and then prepare you a traditional home-cooked<br />
meal at the partially open-kitchen - all the while plying you<br />
with local beer and schnapps. By the time you leave you’ll feel<br />
like a member of the family. However, reservations are recommended,<br />
as there are a total of six tables - three inside and<br />
three outside in a small arched passageway. Q Open: June-<br />
August 12:00-01:00, September-May 12:00-23:00 AB<br />
Konoba Stari Grad B-4, Njegoševa bb, Stari Grad, tel.<br />
+382 63 22 54 03, info@konobastarigrad.me, www.<br />
konobastarigrad.me. An altogether classier affair than<br />
most everything else in the old town (and the rest of Budva<br />
for that matter), there’s a lot to like here: low wooden ceilings,<br />
exposed brick walls and black and photos of old Budva on the<br />
walls, the ambience really can’t be beat - they also have a<br />
covered terrace on the beach if you’d like to eat outside. <strong>The</strong><br />
menu weighs more than our laptop, and all that girth is put<br />
to good use, with many seafood specialities that you won’t<br />
see elsewhere. And to top it all off there’s live music every<br />
night. All in all, one of our favourites. Q Open June-August<br />
11:00-00:00, September-May 11:00-23:00. AW<br />
Kužina E-2, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel. +382 33 45 94<br />
80/+382 68 66 66 93, kuzina<strong>budva</strong>@gmail.com. With food<br />
this good, Kužina knew that it could open a restaurant well outside<br />
the tourist centre of the town and still have patrons make<br />
the effort to find the place - ample free parking always helps<br />
of course. Like its counterpart in the capital, Kužina combines<br />
traditional cuisine and aesthetics (wooden bench seating with<br />
red and white checkered tablecloths) with modern design and<br />
excellent service. Grab a seat on one of their two terraces and<br />
enjoy a draught Nikšićko while your selection of meat is grilled a<br />
few metres away. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. ALB<br />
Fast Food<br />
Bocconcino B-4, Stari grad. Of all the takeaway pizza<br />
places in the old town, this is probably our favourite - although<br />
we can’t decide if that’s despite or because of its<br />
goofy sunglasses wearing cartoon pizza logo. Serving up<br />
slices from huge 50cm thin crusts pies as well as tasty flat<br />
bread sandwiches that are also toasted in the pizza oven,<br />
rest assured that your €2 will be well-spent here. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00.<br />
Maradona 10 B-4, Stari grad. Taking its name from a<br />
stout Argentinian footballer who scored his most famous<br />
goal with his hand [editor’s note: yes, the writer is an unabashed<br />
Pele supporter], our instinct was to be highly critical<br />
of this place and make at least one joke that included<br />
the word ‚cocaine’, but you could do worse than the pizza<br />
slices, sandwiches, and sweet and savoury crepes on<br />
offer here - especially if you’ve spent the night drinking at<br />
nearby Casper Republica. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
Promenade Food Stalls C-3, Slovenska obala. If<br />
you’re not cooking for yourself, by far the cheapest place<br />
to fill up your stomach in Budva is at one of the many fast<br />
food stands that congregate on the promenade between<br />
the post office and the beach. Burgers, burek, pizza and<br />
kebaps (or gyros as they’re called) are the standard fare<br />
of choice, and most also do sweet crepes for dessert. An<br />
even better way to satisfy your sweet tooth during the<br />
summer, is at one of the nearby ice cream stands.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
La Bocca D-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 33 45<br />
14 23, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Only just opened<br />
as we were preparing the guide for print, the early reviews<br />
have been roundly favourable and it looks likely that La<br />
Bocca will become one of the dining options of choice on<br />
this part of the beach. None of this should come as any<br />
surprise, as the owners are the same team behind the<br />
Hotel Astoria and its fabulous restaurant in the old town.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Lord E-3, 29. Novembra 10, tel. +382 69 33 14 02. Far<br />
removed from the action along the waterfront, we happened<br />
upon this nondescript (and bizarrely named) place entirely<br />
by chance several years ago, but have been coming here<br />
ever since. <strong>The</strong> owner Vule, an exceedingly sociable native<br />
of Podgorica who has spent some three decades in the restaurant<br />
business, may not speak much English, but makes<br />
himself known regardless (often with the help of some complimentary<br />
homemade rakija). <strong>The</strong> house speciality is slow<br />
roasting full pigs, sheep and seemingly anything else with four<br />
legs - groups should order their animal of choice one day in<br />
advance, and Vule will collect it from a local farmer. A highly<br />
recommendable experience. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Mona Lisa B-4, Trg Palmi bb, Stari Grad, tel. +382<br />
69 33 13 27. Modern, dark and moody with a couple of<br />
dour Mona Lisa portraits watching over the place, it took<br />
us a while to figure out if it was a café, bar or restaurant<br />
- mainly because it’s all three. Come with your laptop during<br />
the day for coffee and free WiFi, peruse the lengthy<br />
menu around dinner time, or drop by at night for a few<br />
drinks on the large covered terrace outside. Alternatively,<br />
there’s a breakfast menu, drinks are served all day and<br />
the WiFi is still free at night - you get the idea. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 00:00. ABW<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Oaza B-3, Slovenska obala 27, tel. +382 33 45 22<br />
15/+382 69 02 47 56, oaza<strong>budva</strong>@t-com.me, www.<br />
oaza.co.me. Set amongst a leafy patch of trees and<br />
small canal a hundred metres or so from the beach, this<br />
place indeed feels like an oasis. A family-run establishment<br />
with decades of experience, the service is friendly<br />
and personable, with a menu focussed on fish and other<br />
seafood. It’s a popular venue for locals to gather for family<br />
reunions, receptions and other celebrations - which is<br />
always a good sign - and in the summer they set up a grill<br />
outside. Try the homemade ice cream for dessert. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 23:00. ABW<br />
Obala J-2, Bečićka plaža 25, Rafailovići, tel. +382<br />
33 47 10 45/+386 33 47 10 54, www.hotelobala.<br />
me. One of several restaurants along the pedestrian-only<br />
promenade in Rafailovići, it’s a fine place to grab a bite<br />
close to the beach - especially if you manage to get a table<br />
outside in the shade under a large pine tree. For those<br />
watching their wallet, they even offer very budget-friendly<br />
set lunch and dinner specials from only €5. <strong>The</strong> owners<br />
also have a half-dozen or so different accommodation<br />
options in the area, including a decent hotel above the<br />
restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. ABW<br />
Old Fisherman’s Pub B-4, Slovenska Obala bb, tel.<br />
+382 69 48 24 25. Called the Old Fisherman’s Pub for<br />
a reason, as you can find patrons inside lingering over a<br />
pint at most times of the day, it’s also a full restaurant<br />
that specialises in pizzas and grilled meat dishes - with<br />
the latter prepared in front of you on the terrace, much to<br />
the the delight of your eyes and nose. You can’t miss the<br />
brightly painted tables and benches on the terrace at the<br />
corner of the harbour just outside the old town. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00. ABW<br />
2012<br />
31
32 restAurAnts<br />
Olimp B-3, Slovenska Beach, tel. +382 33 45 16<br />
29/+382 69 33 35 95, olimpia-r@t-com.me, www.<br />
en.restoranolimp-<strong>budva</strong>.com. If it’s not the newest of the<br />
clutch of restaurants along the promenade between the<br />
beach and old town, it at least looks to be. <strong>The</strong>re’s plenty of<br />
seating arranged around a pleasant garden, but we prefer to<br />
sit at one of the tables along the rocky shore just centimetres<br />
from the water. <strong>The</strong> menu is more limited than most, with lots<br />
of seafood and a few grilled meat dishes to choose from, but<br />
we find this an advantage rather than the opposite. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. ABW<br />
O Sole Mio B-3/4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 69 89 14<br />
04. Its popularity is largely inexplicable to us, but what do we know?<br />
It’s not like we write travel guides for a living - oh, wait.... We do admit<br />
that the pizzas are some of the biggest around, although they are<br />
priced accordingly, and if you need seating for three-hundred people<br />
or more at short notice this may be your best bet. On the plus side,<br />
it is a fine place for a drink and some people watching during the<br />
evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AVBW<br />
Pablo Picasso B-4, Slovenska obala 13, tel. +382 21 88<br />
38. Formerly located inside the old town, Picasso’s new home<br />
is on the Slovenska Obala just after Hemingway - why this small<br />
stretch of pavement in Budva attracts such famous names, we’re<br />
honestly not sure. <strong>The</strong> pizzas and sandwiches here come quite<br />
highly recommended by locals, but it seems unforgiveable that<br />
of all the paintings on the walls, none looked to be by the famous<br />
Spaniard. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AB<br />
Parma E-1, Mainski put 70, tel. +382 67 57 37 33, parma.<br />
dapcevic@gmail.com. We only found this place after dropping<br />
off our car for service at the garage next door, which almost made<br />
up for the €60 we paid for a new spare tyre. Most likely the cheapest<br />
grill in town, if you know of anywhere that beats Parma’s 750g<br />
mixed plate for only €7.90 drop us a line. <strong>The</strong>y also have at least<br />
one friendly English-speaking waiter, and if you’re staying in they<br />
have reliable delivery. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AB<br />
Perla B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 68 80 80 80,<br />
info@perla<strong>budva</strong>.com, www.perla<strong>budva</strong>.com. Definitely<br />
one of Budva’s top destinations for the stylish jet set since its<br />
auspicious opening on New Year’s Eve 2009, in addition to be<br />
a popular lounge bar and concert venue on two levels, there’s<br />
also a vastly underrated kitchen that turns out a mouthwatering<br />
selection of gourmet international and Montenegrin dishes.<br />
<strong>The</strong> curved wooden and glass façade is impossible to miss at<br />
the roundabout just outside the promenade’s main entrance.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Pivnica Nik Gold D/E-4, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382<br />
68 50 77 02, restoran.pivnica.nikgold@gmail.com, www.<br />
pivnicanikgold.me. Perhaps our favourite of Budva’s beachside<br />
restaurants, although we couldn’t find the phrase anywhere on<br />
the menu this is a classic surf n’ turf joint if there ever was one,<br />
with a menu so heavy it could easily be used to club a fish or put<br />
down a cow - not that such a need would ever arise. While it’s the<br />
kind of establishment where you’ll feel comfortable dining in your<br />
swimwear, be aware that this will make it more difficult to hide<br />
the inevitable bulge you’ll have after finishing your meal. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00. €8-25. ABW<br />
Pizzeria Lav B-4, Iva Mikovića 16, Stari grad, tel. +382 68<br />
53 20 02. Hidden down a tiny alleyway around the corner from the<br />
main entrance to the old town, while the pizzas are better than you’d<br />
be led to believe from the weather-worn sign out front, the same<br />
sign’s proclamation that they are the best pizza in the city is also<br />
probably a bit of a stretch. A seating area in the back in covered by<br />
a roof of blue plastic sheeting, which will keeps you dry and cool, but<br />
also adds some eerie lighting. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
2012<br />
33
34 restAurAnts<br />
Porto B-4, Slovenska obala, tel. +382 68 12 13<br />
14/+382 69 02 58 50, www.restoranporto.com. Of<br />
all the waterfront restaurants along the harbour (and there<br />
are many), Porto is easily the most popular, with a steady<br />
stream of customers even in the low season and nary a<br />
free table during summer months. <strong>The</strong> menu doesn’t offer<br />
any surprises, but everything it includes is well-prepared,<br />
the prices are reasonable, the wine list extensive and the<br />
service generally gets high marks. Sometimes following<br />
the crowds can lead unsuspecting visitors astray, but that<br />
is fortunately not the case here. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.<br />
AB<br />
Porto Pizana B-4, Marina Budva, tel. +382 68 71 88<br />
38, restoran.pizana@gmail.com. With an unbeatable<br />
location overlooking the yachts in the harbour and seriouslooking<br />
wooden exterior, one’s first impression of this place<br />
is likely to be of an upscale formal dining experience. While<br />
we can’t say that this is entirely incorrect, it does have a<br />
quirky edge to it, with décor that includes lamps shaped like<br />
women, snakeskin embellishments, faux Greek sculptures<br />
and multi-coloured chandeliers. Of course at the end of the<br />
day it’s the food that counts, and everything here is excellent,<br />
with one of the most extensive menus in Budva. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Rabello E-3, Podkošljun bb, tel. +382 67 35 55 55.<br />
This jack of all trades may not excel at any one thing, but its<br />
location on one of the town’s busier roundabouts gives you<br />
a front row seat to witness Montenegrin driving etiquette<br />
in all its glory. <strong>The</strong> menu contains pizza, pasta and other<br />
standard international fare, but we recommend stopping<br />
by in the morning for breakfast or the evening for an early<br />
drink. Q Open June-August 07:00-01:00, September-May<br />
07:00-24:00. ABW<br />
Sambra B-4, Trg Palmi, Iva Mikovića 10, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 33 45 13 08, sambra@t-com.me, www.pizzeriasambra.com.<br />
Another restaurant that claims to have the best pizza<br />
in town, while we can neither deny nor confirm this assertion,<br />
the place does have a charming little terrace located on the<br />
aptly named Palm Square. Opened in 1989, it’s also officially the<br />
longest running Italian restaurant in Budva, with pizza comprising<br />
only a small percentage of its vast offering, which ranges from<br />
pasta and speciality salads to a handful of traditional dishes and<br />
some breakfast options. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. AB<br />
San Marino B-3, Slovenska obala 21, tel. +382 33 45<br />
29 60. We’re not sure if this place is technically named after<br />
the tiny European city state, but at peak hours it may have<br />
just about as many people. We exaggerate only slightly as the<br />
terrace does have room for some 150 patrons (with another<br />
80 seats inside), many of whom come for the live music. Italian<br />
and Mediterranean standards populate the menu here, and over<br />
the years we’ve grown quite fond of the seafood paella for two.<br />
Q Open: 08:00-01:00 from June-August, 09:00-23:00 from<br />
September-May. AB<br />
Shanghai B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 63 22 54 01, www.<br />
kineskirestoran.me. If you’re looking for a break from the heaping<br />
platters of grilled meat and fish or the occasional pizza that<br />
dominate most menus in Budva, perhaps some crunchy spring<br />
rolls, a bowl of hot and sour soup, and a steaming plate of spicy<br />
Szechuan beef is the answer - or at least it is for us from time to<br />
time. Follow your nose to the covered terrace up the stairs past<br />
the entrance to the Modern Gallery. Q Open: 11:00-24:00 from<br />
June-August, 11:00-23:00 September-May. ABW<br />
Sky Light B-4, Trg Bazilike bb, Stari grad, tel. +382<br />
69 03 79 48. With seating set up along the edge of the<br />
overgrown ruins in front of the citadel, a trip to Sky Light<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
will not only satiate your hunger, but also remind of you of<br />
Budva’s ancient past. <strong>The</strong> menu consists of fairly standard<br />
pizza and pasta dishes, and it seems more often then not<br />
customers here are interested in a coffee or a cocktail than<br />
a full meal. <strong>In</strong> case of bad weather keep your sunglasses<br />
on, as the small interior is painted a blinding blue. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. AB<br />
Tropico C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 02 58<br />
75/+382 69 43 42 91, www.tropico-<strong>budva</strong>.com. It would<br />
be easy to lump Tropico in with the countless other beachside<br />
restaurants, but the management here does seem to<br />
genuinely put in more effort than most. Of course if we try<br />
to think of some concrete examples to support this claim we<br />
come up empty, but that’s just the feeling we get when we eat<br />
here. <strong>The</strong> menu covers just about everything, but we prefer<br />
the grilled dishes to the seafood, pasta and pizzas. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Zeleni Gaj C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel. +382 69 25<br />
95 15. One of several waterfront restaurants whose tables<br />
spill out onto the beach, Zeleni Gaj is distinguished by the<br />
grove of trees providing a bit of additional protection against<br />
the summer sun, and its proximity to a children’s playground<br />
located under said trees. <strong>The</strong> wine list is perhaps the most<br />
aesthetically pleasing in town, with small flags denoting the<br />
country of origin, and liberal dollops of the house tartar sauce<br />
make everything you order taste better. Q Open June-Sept<br />
08:00-02:00, Oct-May 09:00-23:00. PGBS<br />
Zlatibor E-2, Velji Vinogradi 23, tel. +382 33 45 95<br />
12/+382 67 61 01 40, zlatiborbd@t-com.me. Another<br />
quality dining option that is somewhat hidden away in a<br />
mostly residential district, Zlatibor strikes us as something<br />
of a sheltered oasis in a proverbial urban jungle. Open only<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
restAurAnts<br />
during the warmer months, the restaurant has a deal with<br />
a local fisherman to keep its supply of fresh fish truly fresh -<br />
as you can see for yourself in the iced display case near the<br />
entrance. Several rooms are also available for rent upstairs.<br />
Q Open June-August 08:00-24:00, September-May 10:00-<br />
22:00. AB<br />
Around Budva<br />
Aleksandar J-2, Bečićka plaža, Rafailovići, tel. +382<br />
33 47 15 55/+382 67 60 02 17, restoranaleksandar.<br />
klikovac@t-com.me. With the opening of Aleksandar to<br />
start the 2012 season, the waterfront in Rafailovići finally<br />
has an exquisite 5-star restaurant to call its own. While<br />
seated at the bright airy terrace, you can practically feel the<br />
waves of the Mediterranean crashing before you, and the<br />
ambience of the seaside setting carries over into the sophisticated<br />
menu as well, which is of course complimented<br />
by one of the most complete wine lists on the coast. All<br />
in all Aleksandar offer elegant dining that few others can<br />
match. QOpen 11:00 - 00:00. ABW<br />
Tri Ribara J-2, Bečićka 37, Rafailovići, tel. +382 33<br />
47 10 50, 3ribara@t-com.me, www.triribara.com. <strong>The</strong><br />
owners’ families personally catch the fish served in this<br />
famed local seafood restaurant. For over 30 years the<br />
rustic “Three Fishermen”, in a basic space decorated with<br />
seafaring memorabilia, has been a much loved destination<br />
for people across the country. <strong>The</strong> family also runs the La<br />
Mirage café by the beach. A little out of the way in the fishing<br />
village of Rafailovići, at the far end of Bečići beach, but<br />
well worth the trip. Q Open June-September 12:00-24:00,<br />
October-May 12:00-23:00. GB<br />
2012<br />
35
36 CAFés<br />
Black Iris Café B/C-3, Mediteranska bb, TQ Plaza,<br />
tel. +382 78 11 95 30. Located on the first floor of the TQ<br />
Plaza, if you’re looking for a place to enjoy the match with<br />
air conditioning and relative peace and quiet this could be<br />
your huckleberry. It’s also a fine place to rest your weary<br />
legs during a longer shopping binge in the mall. Q Open<br />
July and Aug 07:00-00:00, from Sept - June 07:00-23:00.<br />
AW<br />
Horošo (Xорошо) B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 69<br />
59 76 66/+382 69 66 36 33. Taking its name from the<br />
Russian word for ‚good’ or ‚fine’ and spelt only in Cyrillic, to<br />
find the place look for the big red and yellow X! logo through<br />
the park during the day, or listen for live music and crowds<br />
murmuring over cocktails at night. On a scorching summer<br />
day, nothing helps to beat the heat like the eponymous house<br />
drink - a non-alcoholic mix of lemon and soda water. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00. AEBW<br />
Moto Club BU-2 E-4, Jadranski put bb (Hotel<br />
Park), tel. +382 69 20 42 05. A surprisingly modern<br />
and tidy affair that straddles the line between café and<br />
bar, any motorcyclists that frequent the place are more<br />
likely to own a Ducati than a Harley - although with pints<br />
of draught Nikšićko coming in at only €1.60 each even<br />
the moped set can afford to drink away an afternoon.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Mozart B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 33 45 17 12,<br />
vuckovic@t-com.me, www.cafferestaurantmozart.com.<br />
One of several cafés with row upon row of tables and chairs<br />
on the square just outside the main gate to the old town,<br />
Mozart also also boasts a full restaurant menu, although<br />
most people coming here for lunch choose to sit at one of<br />
the more intimate tables in an alleyway just inside the walls.<br />
We usually opt for one of their heaping meal-sized salads<br />
followed by a Snickers crepe (Twix, Kinder and Bounty are<br />
also available), but they also do some of the best cakes in<br />
Budva. Q Open June-September 08:30-02:00, October-May<br />
08:00-01:00. AGBSW<br />
Plaža Café B-4, Old Town Beach. Once the only option for a<br />
drink on the old town beach, the venerable Plaža now has some<br />
stiff competition. To its benefit it does have slightly lower prices<br />
than its more upscale neighbours (with ‘upscale’ being a relative<br />
term, as they all offer chairs on the same sand), and also<br />
offers the lounge chairs for those looking for the true beach e<br />
xperience.<br />
Porto Montenegro<br />
the Club house<br />
Aussie inspired laid-back watering hole with<br />
extensive music and cocktail list. Porto Montenegro<br />
Village - Ozana, Tivat, theclubhouse.<br />
me, tel.: +382 (0)67 626 973<br />
Puro beACh Pool&bAr<br />
Luxurious lounge and restaurant featuring a<br />
central Olympic sized pool cantilevered over<br />
the Bay with unparalleled views, music and<br />
atmosphere. Porto Montenegro Village - Jetty<br />
3 /Lido Mar, Tivat, purobeach.com, tel.: +382<br />
(0)32 660 970<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Cider with fresh crisp natural taste<br />
Somersby once made<br />
ice a hot commodity
38 nigHtliFe<br />
Not having much competition from anywhere else in the<br />
country to begin with (we’re especially looking at you<br />
Podgorica!), during the summer months Budva is the<br />
unequivocal nightlife capital not only of Montenegro,<br />
but pretty much the entire region between Belgrade<br />
and Athens. During this time it’s no exaggeration to say<br />
that the party never really ends, as the vast majority of<br />
the people in town are here on holiday and drinking at a<br />
restaurant during lunch or at the beach during the day<br />
is just short of being mandatory.<br />
Once the sun goes down, the nightlife action more or<br />
less falls into three categories: traditional bars and<br />
pubs, open-air bars and everything else. <strong>The</strong> old town<br />
establishments, most of which soldier on throughout<br />
the year, are bit more low key than elsewhere, while<br />
the seasonal open-air bars and clubs near the marina<br />
and along the waterfront are where things get can get<br />
really crazy. <strong>The</strong>n of course there are the traditional<br />
clubs nearer the city centre, and last but definitely not<br />
least the absurdly large Top Hill that is truly in a class<br />
of its own.<br />
Bars & Pubs<br />
Casper Bar B-4, Cara Dušana 10, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 33 40 22 90. We probably shouldn’t play favourites,<br />
but at the same time we feel compelled to mention that<br />
there’s no place we’d rather spend the better part of the<br />
night drinking in Budva than under the pine trees on one<br />
of Casper’s several terraces in the old town. Possessing<br />
an authenticity that at times can be in short supply in<br />
these parts, this place is definitely the antithesis of the<br />
mega-clubs and beach bars blasting turbo folk. Jazz,<br />
R’n’B, hip hop, electro, reggae, Latin, broken beat and<br />
house are the norm here, and they even host an annual<br />
jazz festival in early September. If you’re looking for<br />
something alternative, this is your place. Q Open: 10:00-<br />
02:00 from June-August, 17:00-02:00 from September-<br />
May. ABW<br />
Chest O’Shea’s Irish Pub B-4, Vuka Karadzica 9,<br />
Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 57 94 68, chestosheas@<br />
gmail.com. A town is not a town without an Irish Pub, in<br />
which case Budva owes its very existence to this place<br />
- the only representative of the Emerald Isle in these<br />
parts. <strong>In</strong> addition to Guinness on tap (which any and all<br />
Irish pubs deserving of the name have of course), there<br />
are also sports, sports and more sports, with a flat<br />
screen TV on virtually every wall showing virtually every<br />
sporting event worth watching. Some nice extras include<br />
a book exchange, current English language newspapers,<br />
free internet and an organised pub crawl. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. ABW<br />
Greco B-4, Njegoševa bb, Stari grad. Arguably the<br />
most popular place to party within the old town walls,<br />
during the summer months the action doesn’t really get<br />
going till sometime after 10pm and continues until well<br />
after we’ve begun to feel guilty for local residents trying<br />
to sleep. Even when the place gets packed inside and<br />
out - which is almost a guaranteed occurrence every<br />
night of the week - it still feels a bit more intimate a venue<br />
than the larger beach bars outside the old town, due to<br />
the natural space limitations. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.<br />
AB<br />
Jeff B-4, Njegoševa bb, Stari grad, tel. +382 68 03 33<br />
35. <strong>The</strong> mostly standing-room only neighbour of Greco in<br />
the centre of the old town, even when there’s not much<br />
going on here, places to rest your weary legs are in short<br />
supply. We’ve still never managed to find out who Jeff is,<br />
but we have repeatedly been serenaded drunk tourists on<br />
more than one occasion. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.<br />
Nikšićko Pivo<br />
From 1896 until the present day, Nikšićko Pivo has<br />
become the most popular beer brand in our market.<br />
Produced from natural ingredients, skilfully and expertly<br />
by our brew masters, this famous lager has preserved<br />
its recognizable taste over the years.<br />
<strong>The</strong> 115-year long tradition, numerous medals and<br />
awards at world competitions confirm the undoubted<br />
quality of our beer. Once again, as a result of tradition<br />
and quality, Nikšićko Pivo won a gold medal at this<br />
year’s prestigious international competition - Monde<br />
Sellection.<br />
Nikšićko Pivo is produced in seven different SKU’s:<br />
0.5 l returnable bottle, 0,33 l non - returnable bottle,<br />
cans 0,33 and 0,5 l, 2l PET bottle and keg volume 30l<br />
and 50l. It contains 5% alcohol, and is best served at<br />
3° - 5 ° C.<br />
Nikšićko Pivo, just like the region it hails from, has<br />
always been the synonym for adventure, competitive<br />
spirit and return to nature, and is ment to be enjoyed<br />
with mates.<br />
Always among friends<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
40 nigHtliFe<br />
Korkovado B-4. Although it shares its name with the<br />
café-cum-restaurant just outside the old town gates, this<br />
hip cocktail bar is a completely different experience, with an<br />
ambience all its own. Sitting quite literally atop and within the<br />
old town walls, Korkovado has the look and feel of an exclusive<br />
nightspot, but luckily none of the pretension. To find the place,<br />
turn left as soon as you pass through the main gate (Glavni<br />
ulaz) and follow the narrow alleyway until you see a sexy<br />
bikini-clad cartoon pointing you to the entrance.<br />
MB IceClub B-4, Njegoševa 44, Stari Grad, tel. +382<br />
33 45 25 52/+382 69 45 25 52, iceclubmb@gmail.<br />
com. This one could have easily been included under cafés,<br />
as its pleasant terrace on the old town’s largest square - in<br />
the shadow of the towering belfry of the Church of St John the<br />
Baptist - is one of the best places to grab a coffee, cake or<br />
fancy ice cream concoction during the day. However, they’re<br />
also well-known for cocktails and ‚club’ is in the name, which<br />
was the deciding factor. For more unique drinking experience,<br />
try to grab a seat on one of the three-person sofa swings.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
<strong>The</strong> Prince B-4, Vranjak 8, Stari Grad, tel. +382 69 31<br />
25 98. Budva’s old town is small, but this place still manages<br />
to remain off the proverbial beaten path, surrounded<br />
by private courtyards with vegetation spilling out over their<br />
walls. A small but dignified-looking interior is supplemented<br />
by a handful of tables and chairs in the alleyway outside, and<br />
you can set your glass of draught Nikšičko on the weatherworn<br />
stone next to the entrance that looks to be from Roman<br />
times. <strong>The</strong>y have Guinness, but a pint will cost you nearly €8.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. ABW<br />
Clubs<br />
Discoteque Trocadero B-3/4, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382<br />
69 06 90 86, info@trocadero<strong>budva</strong>.com, www.trocadero<strong>budva</strong>.com.<br />
Opened in 1992, Discoteque Trocadero (not to<br />
be confused with the seasonal beach bar of the same name)<br />
is indisputably the godfather Montenegro’s party scene, with a<br />
reputation that long ago spread to Belgrade and beyond. <strong>In</strong> 2005<br />
the club moved to its current location in the centre of Budva, which<br />
was formerly the city’s main cinema, and it can now host nearly<br />
2,000 partygoers at once - which is does on nearly a nightly basis<br />
during the summer. <strong>The</strong>re are frequent live performances, mostly<br />
of the Yugo pop and turbo folk variety. Q Open June-September<br />
22:00-05:00, closed in winter. AE<br />
Sparta C-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 69 91 49 14,<br />
www.clubsparta.net. One of Budva’s most exclusive club<br />
(at least of those that are accessible to the general public),<br />
as the name suggests, Sparta has a vaguely Greek or Roman<br />
theme, but done in a sophisticated style that doesn’t take<br />
things too far. This is the place that VIPs come to party if they<br />
want to have a good time but still keep a relatively low profile,<br />
and its Fashion TV events have become the stuff of legends.<br />
Pack some smart clothes if you plan on getting in, while reservations<br />
are also recommended. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00.<br />
Open-Air Bars and Clubs<br />
Arena H-2, Bečićka plaža bb, tel. +382 69 03 53 50/+382<br />
33 45 18 43, salus@t-com.me. Designed to resemble the<br />
coliseum in Rome (or at least half of it), Arena is a beach bar in<br />
the most literal sense, as the light yellow panels that make up<br />
its semi-circle exterior are set up right on the sand. While they<br />
unfortunately don’t have any gladiators battling to the death for<br />
the public’s entertainment, let alone any lions, tigers or other<br />
animals of prey, they do have loud music and lots of alcohol,<br />
which in our book is almost as good.<br />
El Mundo Cocktail Bar B-4, Stari grad, tel. +382 69<br />
48 12 95. Of all the open-air bars that set up shop around<br />
old town walls during summer, El Mundo is one of the longest<br />
running. Located near the marina on Trg od Gvozdenih Vrata,<br />
it’s known for its specialty cocktails and focus on Latin music<br />
(if you can manage to differentiate the noise coming out of its<br />
speakers from that of its neighbours’). And on a completely<br />
subjective note, we’ve found that for some reason this is<br />
where some of the most attractive girls like to congregate.<br />
QOpen 20:00 - 02:00.<br />
Fortaleza B-4, Trg od Gvozdenih Vrata bb, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 69 89 14 04. We’re not sure if this open bar just outside<br />
the old town is named for the brand of tequila or the capital of<br />
the Brazilian state of Ceará, but one night last summer we drank<br />
so much tequila here that we could have sworn we were at Carnival<br />
in Brazil - which was good fun until the next morning when<br />
we tried to roll out of bed only to realise that we had passed out<br />
on the beach and had one of the worst hangovers of our life!<br />
We guess what we’re trying to say is, drink in moderation and<br />
stay away from tequila. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00. A<br />
Hacienda B-3, Mediteranska bb, tel. +382 68 22 70 94,<br />
info@haciendabar<strong>budva</strong>.com, www.haciendabar<strong>budva</strong>.<br />
com. Order a couple of the giant cocktails served in carved<br />
out full-sized watermelons and you may just start thinking<br />
you’re in Rio during carnival season. Only operating during<br />
the summer season, this Latin themed open-air party venue<br />
is hidden amongst the trees just to the west of the old town<br />
and promenade. A mild mannered café and restaurant by day,<br />
once the sun goes down everything goes, and it’s not uncommon<br />
to see fully costumed Brazilian dancers entertaining the<br />
sweaty crowds, or a live cuban band improving requests from<br />
the crowd. Q Open: June - September 08:00-02:00 A<br />
Maltez C-3, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 68 31 87<br />
92. Although this is Budva’s only pirate-themed nightclub,<br />
Pirates of the Caribbean fans shouldn’t get too excited, as<br />
waif-like Kiera Knightly has been replaced by a crew of voluptuous<br />
Montenegrins rocking swimwear and high heels, while<br />
gyrating wildly on the bar and most other available surfaces<br />
[Editor’s note: Coming here with your girlfriend may not be the<br />
best idea you’ve ever had], and Johnny Depp’s impersonation<br />
of Keith Richards’ reanimated corpse now looks a lot more like<br />
Russians in muscle shirts. Of course that’s not to say that you<br />
won’t have a great time here. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00.<br />
Top Hill A-1, Topliški Put bb, tel. +382 68 05 05<br />
08/+381 69 1 66 96 00, info@tophill.me, www.tophill.<br />
me. With a capacity of well over 5,000 this massive open air<br />
club on the hill overlooking the city and sea some 600m below<br />
could fit nearly one third of Budva’s population within it’s walls<br />
at the same time, and is one of the largest open air clubs<br />
in all of Europe. Only opened in 2010, its headline-capturing<br />
capacity and state-of-the-art facilities (not to mention ideal<br />
location) have made it possible to add some of the biggest<br />
brand names in clubbing to its programme, such as Ministry<br />
of Sound, Hed Kandi, Playboy and Fashion TV. More than just<br />
another club, an night at Top Hill is an experience not soon<br />
forgotten. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. AL<br />
Trocadero Open Bar C-3, Slovenska Obala bb, tel.<br />
+382 69 32 20 65. Not to be confused wtih the famous<br />
Discoteque Trocadero a few hundred metres away, this is<br />
easily the most recognisable of the many places that line the<br />
main city beach thanks to the replica Eiffel Tower at its centre.<br />
Like elsewhere you can expect loud (turbo folk) music blasting<br />
from every direction, girls dressed appropriately for the beach<br />
dancing in high places, and guaranteed good times under the<br />
stars and/or moon. QOpen 21:00 - 01:00.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
42 BeACHes<br />
It’s no secret that Budva’s biggest asset when it comes to<br />
tourism is its beaches. This is no chicken or the egg type<br />
argument - the beaches were here first, and the people,<br />
towns, resorts, marinas, nightclubs, Russians, go-go<br />
dancers, Ferraris and everything else followed. <strong>The</strong> socalled<br />
Budva <strong>Riviera</strong> comprises some 35km in the heart<br />
of Montenegro’s Adriatic coast, roughly 12.5km of which is<br />
covered by glorious glorious beaches.<br />
Usually officially divided into 18 different locations - most<br />
of which we’ve covered in detail here - Budva’s beaches<br />
run the gamut in terms of size, atmosphere and history,<br />
and each has its own unique personality. Most of the them<br />
also offer ample opportunities to party, with beach bars,<br />
open-air clubs and loud music being the normal state of<br />
affairs along most of the coast during the summer.<br />
While the majority of the beaches are privately operated,<br />
admission is usually free of charge, with the catch being<br />
that you are required to pay for a parasol and sun chairs<br />
(and presumably large amounts of alcohol), which can cost<br />
anywhere from €5-15 for two people depending on the<br />
beach. However, some stretches of the nicest sand (most<br />
notably at the west end of Bečići and around <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>)<br />
are reserved only for guests of certain hotels and resorts.<br />
Bečići For the majority of visitors - both tourists and locals<br />
- all discussions of beaches on the Montenegrin coast begin<br />
and end with Bečići, the nearly 2km long swath of sand just<br />
east of Budva that stretches from Zavala hill to the former<br />
fishing village of Rafailovići. Bečići’s prestigious reputation<br />
dates back to at least 1935, when it was awarded the Grand<br />
Prix in Paris as the best beach in all of Europe. Nowadays,<br />
the western half of the beach is maintained by the luxury<br />
resorts and hotels that have lately made Bečići one of the<br />
most desirable addresses in the entire Mediterranean for jet<br />
setters and the international elite, which means that much<br />
of this area is reserved for guests only. But if the €7000 a<br />
night presidential suite at Hotel Splendid is not in your budget,<br />
don’t fret, as the eastern half of the beach shares the same<br />
sand, sun and water, and an umbrella and two sun beds can<br />
be rented for as little as €5 per day.<br />
Guvance Less than 100m long, Guvance surrounded by<br />
vegetation and nestled beneath the main Budva-Bečići road<br />
and often referred to simply as the ‚small beach’. <strong>The</strong> walking<br />
path that runs all the way (more or less uninterrupted) from<br />
Mogren beach to <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> passes just above the pristine<br />
white sand before disappearing into the tunnel that emerges<br />
in Bečići on the other side, making Guvance a popular place<br />
to stop on a day of beach hopping along the coast. As it<br />
faces west towards the old town, this is also one of the best<br />
places to be at sunset.<br />
Jaz Aside from the beaches surrounding the fame resort<br />
island of <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>, Jaz is likely the most internationally<br />
known beach in all of Montenegro, as it has recently hosted<br />
legendary concerts by some of the world’s most famous<br />
performers. <strong>The</strong> Rolling Stones first came here in 2007 as<br />
part of their A Bigger Bang Tour, and we followed the next<br />
year by the likes of Lenny Kavitz, Arman Van Helden and<br />
Madonna, with the latter drawing a crowd of over 50,000,<br />
or nearly three times the population of Budva. <strong>In</strong> addition<br />
to its status as a world famous concert venue, Jaz is also<br />
one of the finest beaches in the country, with over 1200m<br />
of pebble-lined shores, clear turquoise water and a nearby<br />
campsite that boasts an eye-popping 2000 lots. Don’t worry<br />
too much about crowds though, as the furtherest end of the<br />
beach provides is backed by hills and provides enough privacy<br />
that it was formerly reserved for nudists.<br />
Kamenovo One of the most underrated beaches in the<br />
region, we like to come here on foot via the tunnel from<br />
Rafailovići (where we also like to return for dinner in the evening),<br />
but you can also park just off the main road above and<br />
walk down. Facing to the southwest, it gets sun for nearly the<br />
entire day, and offers nice views of sunset behind <strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola<br />
Island in the distance.<br />
Queen’s Beach is definitely fit for royalty, photo courtesy of<br />
the Tourist Organisation of Budva<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Jaz Beach is one of the our personal favourites<br />
Miločer Arguably the most picture-perfect of all the beaches<br />
on the Budva <strong>Riviera</strong>, the 300m pink sand beach is surrounded<br />
by the manicured gardens of the Villa Miločer resort, which itself<br />
is part of an 18 hectare nature reserve populated by a varitey of<br />
exotic plant species such as Lebanese cedars, tropical mimosas,<br />
Japanese medlars and various cacti. Sometimes referred to as<br />
King’s beach, this was formerly the summer residence of the royal<br />
family, who obviously chose this location for a good reason.<br />
Mogren Unless you brought your climbing gear, Mogren beach<br />
is only accessible by following the narrow concrete path along<br />
the rocky cliffs from the Avala Hotel just outside the old town<br />
walls (you literally have to go underneath an elevated outdoor<br />
swimming pool), making it one of the most secluded in the<br />
entire area despite being so near to the city centre. Awarded<br />
the prestigious Blue Flag designation in 2004, it’s often called<br />
one of the most beautiful beaches in Montenegro, thanks to<br />
the lush green hills behind and the clean fine sand both on the<br />
beach and the sea bottom. It’s 350m length is actually divided<br />
into two separate beaches, which are connected by a tunnel<br />
through the hillside that juts out into the sea.<br />
Pizana <strong>The</strong> smaller and less attractive of the two old town<br />
beaches, Pizana is found on the opposite side of the jetty that<br />
protects Budva’s marina. That said, the views down the old town<br />
walls are simply stunning, as are those out towards St Nicholas<br />
Island, and the water remains shallow for quite some distance.<br />
Pržno <strong>The</strong> public beach for the lovely little Mediterranean<br />
settlement of Pržno, its some 300m of fine sand curves<br />
nearly halfway around the idyllic bay on which the town sits,<br />
and with the four-star Maestral resort and casino not far<br />
away, you know that it will always be well-maintained. Facing<br />
due west it also some spectacular sunsets, with Budva’s old<br />
town even visible in the distance.<br />
Queen’s Beach Along with neighbouring Miločer, Queen’s<br />
beach (or Kraljičina in Serbian) is part of an 18 hectare<br />
protected nature park, that was a part of the royal family’s<br />
Mediterranean estate prior to being nationalised in 1945.<br />
This small 200m gem was said to be the favourite beach<br />
of Queen Marija, the wife of King Alexander Karađorđević,<br />
which is where it got its name. Although the Montenegro is<br />
no longer a monarchy, the beach is still said to be a popular<br />
destination for state officials, so there’s a chance it may be<br />
closed to the general public if you try and visit.<br />
Ričardova Glava Often mistakenly referred to as <strong>City</strong><br />
beach, Ričardova Glava (or Richard’s Head) is the small strip<br />
of coarse sand just outside the southwest corner of the old<br />
town walls. With the ancient walls towering behind you and<br />
the waves crashing against the rocky outcrop upon which<br />
the foundations of the church of Santa Maria in Punta sits to<br />
your left, this is one of the most atmospheric beaches you<br />
will ever enjoy a drink on (if you can find an empty table at<br />
one of the three cafés that occupy the majority of the sand).<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
BeACHes<br />
To get there duck through the small passageway from Trg<br />
Pjesnika in the old town, or less romantically follow the city’s<br />
main promenade until it ends at the Avala Hotel.<br />
Slovenska Plaža Famously given the name Slavic Beach in<br />
1935 by a group of holidaying Czechs (although don’t tell this<br />
to any Slovenians, as they are convinced that it’s named after<br />
them!), Budva’s 1600m long central beach stretches across<br />
entire waterfront from the marina in the west until it ends just<br />
past Hotel Park in the far east of the city. Lined more or less<br />
continuously with restaurants and bars - some permanent<br />
and some only temporarily erected during the summer - this<br />
is where the where the party is from morning till late at night<br />
during the high season.<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola Island During the summer months boats regularly<br />
ply the 1km of water separating <strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola Island from<br />
the mainland, which makes getting here a breeze, but at the<br />
same time assures that you unfortunately won’t be alone on the<br />
island’s built up northern beaches, which account for a combined<br />
840m of waterfront real estate. However, if you’re up for a bit of<br />
adventure you can rent a kayak and with some luck find a more<br />
intimate patch of sand under the sheer rock cliffs on the western<br />
or southern sides of the island. After an excursion here you’ll know<br />
first-hand why the locals refer to the place as Hawaii.<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> If one image were chosen to represent all of<br />
Montenegro, the medieval island resort town <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong><br />
would be it - and in fact is it, if you judge by the countless<br />
magazine and guide book covers. While a night’s sleep on the<br />
island itself will cost you at least four figures, for considerably<br />
less than that you can spend the day swimming on the beach<br />
just opposite, or at least on the southernmost two-thirds, as<br />
the pinkish red sands of the northern beach are reserved<br />
exclusively for the resort’s guests.<br />
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Budva’s old town is almost big enough to get lost in - if you try really hard, photo courtesy of the Tourist Organisation of<br />
Budva<br />
While Budva is known primarily for its beaches and<br />
nightlife, there are plenty of historical and cultural<br />
points of interest to keep you busy for a couple of days.<br />
Unquestionably, the most famous individual sight is the<br />
island town of <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> some six kilometres south<br />
of Budva, while a trip out to <strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola island just<br />
off the coast allows you to combine a bit of Robinson<br />
Crusoe-style exploration with some time on the beach.<br />
Of course, most of the rest of Budva’s sights are located<br />
within, or just outside, the walls of its well-preserved<br />
old town.<br />
Churches<br />
Church of St John the Baptist B-4. Soaring nearly twice<br />
as high as any other building in the old town, the bell tower of<br />
this 7th century church dedicated to St John the Baptist is the<br />
unequivocal star of Budva’s modest skyline. However, upon<br />
closer inspection it becomes clear even to those unversed<br />
in religious architecture that the mass of buildings referred<br />
to as <strong>Sveti</strong> Ivan by the locals is actually comprised of three<br />
completely separate structures, namely the bell tower, the<br />
former Bishopric Court and squeezed between these two the<br />
relatively diminutive church itself.<br />
<strong>The</strong> church has undergone significant architectural changes<br />
throughout its history, and was officially a cathedral until the<br />
Budvan Archbishopric was abolished in 1828. If you go inside<br />
make sure to pay special attention to the icon of Mary in the<br />
specially-built north altar. As the inscription says in Greek, it<br />
is the holiest of holies, and is said to have protected the city<br />
from plagues, pirates and all manner of other scourges since<br />
at least the 14th century.<br />
Church of St Mary of Punta B-4. Legend has it that<br />
the church was built on the spot where mysterious Spanish<br />
sailors placed an icon of Mary along with two burning candles<br />
in order to test the Christian faith of the local people sometime<br />
before the 9th century - the idea being that if they were good<br />
Christians they would accept the icon and perhaps build a<br />
church. And here we are 1200 years later, and the church is<br />
still standing! Founding legends aside, it is the oldest church in<br />
Budva and one of the oldest pre-Romanesque churches in the<br />
region. Built into the ramparts, it was originally a Benedictine<br />
monastery, before being taken over by the Franciscans and<br />
later the French.<br />
Church of St Sabas the Sanctified (Crkva Svetog<br />
Save) B-4. Usually going by its shortened moniker the<br />
Church of St Sava, this small Romanesque structure may<br />
not be immediately recognisable as church - to us it’s always<br />
looked a little naked without a bell tower or steeple of any<br />
kind - but during its nearly nine centuries of existence it’s<br />
admirably served several denominations of church-going<br />
Budvans. Forming part of the old town’s southern fortifications,<br />
it in fact pulled double duty as both a Roman Catholic<br />
and Orthodox church during Venetian rule. Nowadays you can<br />
still view several fragments of what were once impressive<br />
frescoes on the interior.<br />
Church of the Holy Trinity B-4. <strong>The</strong> newest of all the old<br />
town churches, the Church of the Holy Trinity has only called<br />
Trg od Crkava home for the past 208 years. Its architecture is<br />
based on that of the Church of the Assumption in Podostrog<br />
Monastery in the north of the country, and the interior is<br />
notable for the finely detailed iconostasis painted by the<br />
well-known Greek artist Naom Zetiri in 1883.<br />
Directly in front of the church, under the shade of a couple<br />
thick palm trees, is the tomb of noted writer and politician<br />
Stjepan Mitrov Ljubiša, who was born in Budva in 1824. This<br />
church is popular with Russian tour groups, so if you’re lucky<br />
you may be able to sneak in for a quick look outside of the<br />
official opening hours.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Early Christian Basilica B-4. What was once a huge<br />
three-nave basilica dating from the late 5th century, is now<br />
little more than slightly overgrown ruins surrounded on two<br />
sides by the terrace of café and restaurant - which for our<br />
tastes is actually a great place to grab a drink or light meal.<br />
<strong>The</strong> remains of the formerly magnificent structure still stand<br />
as a testament to Budva’s importance as a centre of culture,<br />
religion and commerce in the south Adriatic region for the<br />
better part of two millennia.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Old Town<br />
Budva’s old town may not have the dramatic setting of<br />
nearby <strong>Kotor</strong> or the size of Dubrovnik just across the<br />
border in Croatia, but metre for metre it’s one of the best<br />
preserved and most visitor-friendly ancient walled cities in<br />
this part of the Mediterranean.<br />
Originally founded in the 5th century BC, by the son of<br />
Phoenician King Agenor if legends are to be believed, most<br />
of the architectural elements present today are the work<br />
of the Venetians. Over the centuries Budva has suffered<br />
several major earthquakes, most recently in 1979 when<br />
much of the old town was severely damaged and then<br />
painstakingly restored and rebuilt during the better part<br />
of the 1980s.<br />
While we consider every narrow alleyway, square and<br />
courtyard contained within the walls to be a sight unto<br />
itself, most of locations we’ve written about in detail are<br />
situated in the southernmost section of the ancient city.<br />
Despite its small size, the old town can be a bit tricky<br />
to navigate for those here for the first time, especially<br />
if you’re looking for a specific place. <strong>The</strong> enormous bell<br />
tower of St John’s church is a handy point of reference,<br />
and you can pick up a hand 3D computer modelled map<br />
for free at any tourist office and many other places.<br />
Budva Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)<br />
B-4, Stari Grad, tel. +382 33 45 33 08. Given the amount<br />
of Budva’s treasures that have been carted off to institutions<br />
elsewhere in Montenegro, Serbia and further afield<br />
(not to mention all the items that nefariously found their way<br />
Discover Budva’s history of piracy at the Archeological<br />
museum, or see the real thing (apparently) at Budva Marina<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
wHAt to see<br />
<strong>The</strong> Church of St Sabas forms part of the old town walls<br />
into private hands), it’s a bit of a surprise that there is still<br />
anything left to exhibit in the town’s fine little archeological<br />
museum. However, as far as we’re concerned the collection<br />
here is provides an excellent survey of what life was like in<br />
this part of the world from ancient time until the end of the<br />
19th century.<br />
Beginning with the Illyrians, who among other things left<br />
behind a fierce-looking bronze helmet that is one of the<br />
museums most prized pieces, the exhibits move chronologically<br />
through various ceramics, glassware and jewellery<br />
from the Greek and Roman periods, before skipping forward<br />
to medieval times and the more ‚modern’ items from the<br />
Renaissance onwards, which an expectedly impressive<br />
maritime collection.<br />
A small exhibition on the 4th floor is reserved for ethnological<br />
and cultural artefacts. It’s worth coming here with a guide, as<br />
most of the exhibits are unfortunately only labelled in Serbian.<br />
However, if you’d like to remain independent, you can purchase<br />
a detailed full-colour catalogue from the ticket office before<br />
you enter. All in all, splendid way to spend and afternoon if<br />
you grow weary of the beach parties.<br />
Budva Marina B-3/4. While Budva’s Marina probably isn’t<br />
at the top of (or even on) most visitor’s lists of sights to see<br />
while on holiday here, we find it a fascinating location in its own<br />
right, and for better or worse it has an inescapable presence<br />
if you’re walking, dining, drinking or swimming anywhere near<br />
the waterfront. Once a small fishing harbour like countless<br />
other you can find around the Adriatic, in recent years it has<br />
been expanded to accommodate the speedboats and yachts<br />
of wealthy locals and foreign holidaymakers. <strong>The</strong> juxtaposition<br />
of the gnarled old fishing fleet and the glistening new pleasure<br />
toys moored together beneath the old town walls, makes for<br />
some interesting photo opportunities. This is also the place<br />
to head if you’d like to catch one of the regular boats to <strong>Sveti</strong><br />
Nikola Island during the summer.<br />
Porto Montenegro<br />
nAvAl heritAge ColleCtion<br />
Housed in a beautifully restored building,<br />
the NHC tells the remarkable story of the<br />
Adriatic’s maritime past, showcasing over<br />
300 artifacts including Yugoslav submarines.<br />
Porto Montenegro Village, Tivat, portomontengero.com,<br />
tel.: +382 (0)32 660 900<br />
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Dancing Girl Statue A-4. Despite the fact that it’s<br />
become one of the most photographed sights in all of<br />
Budva, surprisingly little is known about this famous statue<br />
positioned above the crashing waves on the rocks between<br />
the old town and Mogren beach. <strong>The</strong> story that’s most often<br />
told about the statue’s origins is that it’s a memorial to the<br />
daughter of a wealthy local family who went for a swim one<br />
day and never returned, which is sometimes embellished with<br />
additional details involving lost or unrequited love.<br />
Mogren Fortress Ruins<br />
Mogren Fortress Ruins If the ancient buildings in<br />
the old town are too well-preserved for your tastes, then<br />
the ruins of once mighty Mogren Fortress may be more to<br />
your liking. Situated on the seaside bluffs that overlook<br />
both the city of Budva and <strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola Island to the east,<br />
Jaz Beach to the west and the open sea everywhere in<br />
between, the vantage point from atop what remains of<br />
the fortress are arguably the best of anywhere the entire<br />
Montenegrin coast.<br />
Originally built in 1860 to protect against attack from the<br />
town’s western flank, the structure played an active role<br />
in both World Wars after receiving some modern concrete<br />
additions, but then fell into disrepair with the receding<br />
likelihood of an Italian invasion. Nowadays it serves as<br />
a site of interest for intrepid tourists, as well as popular<br />
party spot for the local youth.<br />
<strong>The</strong> easiest way to get there is to have a taxi drop you<br />
off at the turn off just before the tunnel on the main road<br />
to Tivat and <strong>Kotor</strong>, and then walk the 500m or so up the<br />
unsealed path to the top. When you’re done you have the<br />
option of walking back down the hill on the same road, or<br />
finding your way down to Mogren beach along the not very<br />
well-marked path. Whichever way you choose beware of<br />
snakes, as the long grass here is full of them (some of<br />
which are poisonous) during the warmer months.<br />
One legend we’ve never actually heard is that touching the<br />
statue’s breasts, thighs or buttocks will bring good luck, but<br />
judging by where the metal has been rubbed to a shiny golden<br />
colour this rumour must have been circulating for some time.<br />
At the end of the day, we’d almost rather not knowing where<br />
the truth lies, as finding out that its just an ordinary work of<br />
art - even if it’s an exceptionally elegant one - would somehow<br />
be disappointing.<br />
Open Art Studio B-4, Iva Mikovića 8a, tel. +382 69<br />
48 08 97/+382 69 27 40 82, openartstudionvip@mail.<br />
ru, www.openartstudiovip.com. <strong>The</strong> private art gallery of<br />
Jelena Papović and Živojin Ćelić is the just about the opposite<br />
of what you’d expect a private art gallery to be - a relaxed<br />
quasi-spiritual atmosphere where long discussions about<br />
art, method, philosophy and life come before any mention of<br />
sales or prices. Located just off of Trg Palmi, the two-room<br />
gallery is also an active studio, with works in various phases<br />
resting on easels, shelves and the floor.<br />
Although the two resident artists both have Montenegrin<br />
backgrounds, they are from different generations (Živojin is a<br />
veteran of the art world having studied and lived in the Netherlands<br />
for two decades, while Jelena is some years younger and<br />
has mainly worked in Montenegro) and have vastly different<br />
styles (Živojin works primarily on abstract, so-called energy<br />
paintings, while Jelena’s central subject is the human figure).<br />
Art is subjective, and we w’ll admit that we quite like both<br />
their work, but even non-collectors or enthusiasts may find<br />
something interesting here.<br />
Roman Necropolis A-4. Only discovered in 1937 during<br />
the construction of what is now the Hotel Avala, the ‚Roman’<br />
necropolis is actually two separate ancient burial grounds:<br />
a Greek necropolis dating back to the 4th to 1st century BC<br />
and a Roman one that was built on top of it during the 1st<br />
and 2nd century AD.<br />
Extensive archeological excavations took place over a period<br />
of some three decades from the 1950s till the 1980s, uncovering<br />
over 450 individual graves and countless priceless<br />
artefacts. Most of these - which include ceramics, weapons<br />
and jewellery from the Greeks, and ceramic, stone and glass<br />
urns that held the remains of cremated Romans - were carted<br />
off to various museums in Belgrade, Split, Cetinje and elsewhere,<br />
although some items are also on display at the Budva<br />
Archeological Museum nearby in the old town.<br />
Additionally, the site itself is now a small open-air exhibition<br />
picturesquely arranged under some swaying palms between<br />
the aforementioned Hotel Avala and the neighbouring Hotel<br />
Mogren at the end of the promenade.<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola Island is so close to Budva that if all else fails<br />
you can swim there in about an hour, photo courtesy of the<br />
Tourist Organisation of Budva<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>The</strong> Citadel B-4, Stari Grad. Logically set at the highest<br />
point in the old town, the Citadel is thought to be built<br />
upon the remnants of Budva’s ancient acropolis. Expanded<br />
and strengthened over the centuries, function was always<br />
placed over style, which has given it the layered appearance<br />
it has today.<br />
<strong>The</strong> fortress’ main building was constructed by the Austrians<br />
in 1836 to house the regiment of troops stationed at the<br />
coast, and is now partially used for a small city museum, while<br />
another section of the building houses a small but stately<br />
library - which would without question be our favourite café<br />
in town, if only there were a café!<br />
<strong>In</strong> the summer the Citadel’s large open-air courtyard is transformed<br />
into a stage for the annual <strong>The</strong>atre <strong>City</strong> Festival, giving<br />
the audience an uncanny feeling of floating between sea and<br />
sky. Q Admission €2.<br />
Around Budva<br />
Kosmač Fortress H-1. Of the many sights hidden<br />
high up in the hills above Budva, Kosmač Fortress is<br />
perhaps the impressive. A fine example of functional<br />
mid-19th century military architecture, it was built during<br />
the 1840s along what was then the border between the<br />
Austro-Hungarian Empire and Montenegro, and was the<br />
most important and strategically placed of the chain of<br />
defensive fortifications in the area - receiving a personal<br />
visit from Emperor Franz Joseph himself in 1875. Constructed<br />
from grey limestone dug out from local quarries,<br />
the fortress still blends in quite seamlessly with the rugged<br />
rocky terrain. Nowadays the structure is in a state of<br />
disrepair that could even be called ruins (as it’s missing<br />
its roof and significant portions of its tower and walls), but<br />
it is still a visually stunning specimen with breathtaking<br />
views.<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
wHAt to see<br />
26th <strong>The</strong>atre <strong>City</strong><br />
15.06 Friday - 01.08 Wednesday<br />
Tel. +382 33 40 29<br />
35, theatrecity@tcom.me,<br />
www.<br />
gradteatar.com.<br />
Founded in the mid-<br />
1980s as a way to<br />
celebrate the end of<br />
the multi-year rebuilding<br />
process that was<br />
required to repair the damage caused by a devastating<br />
earthquake in 1979, <strong>The</strong>atre <strong>City</strong> is more than just a<br />
drama festival as the name would suggest. <strong>In</strong> fact, it‘s a<br />
six week performing arts festival held in various open-air<br />
venues across Budva, and one of the largest events of<br />
its kind in the region.<br />
During the festival the city itself becomes one enormous<br />
stage - hence the name - with actors, musicians,<br />
artists, writers and poets practising their craft for<br />
eager audiences. While the Citadel‘s large elevated<br />
courtyard can be considered the ‚main stage‘, other<br />
locations include several beaches, old town squares,<br />
church interiors and several other venerable ancient<br />
buildings. <strong>In</strong> addition to the nearly daily events officially<br />
organised under the banner of the festival, there are<br />
many additional smaller fringe events, exhibitions and<br />
the like that further reinforce the festive atmosphere<br />
in the city.<br />
A full programme of events can be found on the official<br />
festival website, which also includes detailed information<br />
about the individual venues and performers.<br />
2012<br />
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<strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> fortified island village of <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> is an image<br />
that most people are familiar with, even if they<br />
are not aware that it’s located in Montenegro - only<br />
6km down the coast from Budva to be exact. Built in<br />
the 15th century after a decisive victory against the<br />
Turks at nearby Jaz beach (local legend has it that<br />
the construction was financed largely with treasure<br />
captured during the battle), for most of the next few<br />
centuries it was nothing more than a sleepy fishing<br />
village that was home to a dozen or so familes and<br />
occasionally had to fend off attack by the Ottomans,<br />
pirates or other ne’er-do-wells.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the 19th century, the island became too small to<br />
support to its 400 or so residents, who collectively<br />
decided to move the whole village a few hundred<br />
metres away on the mainland. It was from this point<br />
forward that <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> was slowly transformed<br />
into a resort town - first for the royal family and later<br />
in the 20th century for celebrities and the ultrawealthy.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the 1960s and 1970s it reached the peak<br />
of it international fame, as frequent guests included<br />
Elizabeth Taylor, Orson Welles, Sophia Loren, Kirk<br />
Douglas, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Margaret and<br />
the first man is space Yuri Gagarin. Chess legend<br />
Bobby Fischer also won his famed rematch with Boris<br />
Spassky here in 1992.<br />
<strong>The</strong> island lost some of its lustre following the long<br />
drawn out breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, and by<br />
the beginning of the early 21st century it had begun<br />
to fall into decline. However, in 2007 the entire island,<br />
as well as the nearby Villa Miločer on the mainland,<br />
was taken over by the exclusive luxury resort operator<br />
Amanresorts, which has since undertaken extensive<br />
renovation and restoration of many of the buildings,<br />
reopening the first phase of the project in 2008.<br />
Unfortunately for the majority of tourists - and presumably<br />
our readers - <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> is currently closed<br />
to non-guests, but at least its spectacular outward<br />
appearance can still be freely enjoyed from the adjacent<br />
beach and surrounding countryside.<br />
Magnificent <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>, photo by LeCardinal<br />
Budva’s once mighty Citadel is now breached on a daily<br />
basis - by tourists, photo by Ruiz de Azua<br />
Podostrog Monastery G-2. This 17th century monastery<br />
is situated on outskirts of modern Budva, only 2km or<br />
so from the old town. With great views of the entire bay, it<br />
was known as one of the favourite place of Prince Njegoš,<br />
who ruled Montenegro in the middle of the 19th century.<br />
<strong>The</strong> large complex was built in two stages, with the small<br />
Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin and a twofloor<br />
monks’ residence completed first and protected with<br />
defensive walls and towers. <strong>The</strong> large terrace adjacent to<br />
the residence, was said to have been built at the request of<br />
Njegoš himself. A larger second church outside the walls was<br />
added at a later date.<br />
Praskvica Monastery J-2. One of the most beautiful (and<br />
easiest to reach) of all the monasteries near Budva, Praskvica<br />
is only a few minutes drive above <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>. Dating back to<br />
at least the early 15th century, today the still active Serbian<br />
Orthodox monastery consists of two churches, a large building<br />
serving as the monks’ residence and cemetery. <strong>The</strong> much<br />
larger of the two churches is dedicated to St Nicholas and was<br />
built in 1847 in the spirit of Neo-Gothic style. <strong>The</strong> interior of<br />
the simple single-nave building is dominated by a large golden<br />
iconostasis. <strong>The</strong> smaller church honours the Holy Trinity, and<br />
is notable for some well-worn yet nevertheless impressive<br />
original frescoes from the 17th century.<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola Island That large green landmass sitting<br />
conspicuously in the middle of Budva’s otherwise empty bay,<br />
is the island of Saint Nicholas, which also goes by the name<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola (in Serbian) and Hawaii. At 2km long it’s one of<br />
the largest islands in the southern part of the Adriatic sea,<br />
and is surprisingly covered with lush vegetation throughout<br />
the year.<br />
Of cultural importance is the small Church of St Nicholas,<br />
which officially dates back to the 16th century, but was built<br />
on top of the ruins of an even earlier Crusader-era church and<br />
cemetery. At the north end of the island there’s a restaurant,<br />
café and a couple of private beaches, while most of the rest<br />
of the land is still wild, and home to many varieties of wildlife,<br />
including rabbits, birds and even deer.<br />
It’s believed that a narrow sandbar once connected the island<br />
to the mainland, and theoretically you could still reach it on foot<br />
at low tide when the water is said to be only half a metre deep.<br />
However, most people opt for one of the numerous water taxi<br />
that travel back and forth during the summer season. At other<br />
times of year you’ll have to negotiate with the local fishermen<br />
if you don’t have your own boat.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
50 sHopping<br />
Fashion & Shoes<br />
+IT B-4, <strong>Stefan</strong>a Mitrova Ljubiše 4, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 33 45 29 31. Shoes and accessories. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 00:00.<br />
Afrodita B-4, <strong>Stefan</strong>a Mitrova Ljubiše 22, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 33 45 26 29, amc<strong>budva</strong>@gmail.com. Fashionable<br />
clothing and shoes, some made by domestic designers.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.<br />
Porto Montenegro<br />
FAshion&shoes<br />
heidi Klein<br />
Resort wear, swim wear as well as beach<br />
accessories from designers lines. Porto<br />
Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, heidiklein.<br />
com, tel.: +382 (32) 660 964<br />
WolF&bAdger<br />
Lifestyle boutique showcasing edgy men’s<br />
and women’s lines and jewelry. Porto Montenegro<br />
Vlllage - Ozana, Tivat, wolfandbadger.<br />
com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 965<br />
AnAMAr<br />
Contemporary décor pieces as well as bijoux<br />
and fashion accessories from all over the<br />
world. Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana,<br />
Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)32 540 350<br />
Mooi<br />
Carefully selected high-end designer fashion.<br />
Porto Montenegro Village - Zeta, Tivat,<br />
m-o-o-i.me, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960<br />
Mungos<br />
Well known Italian fashion brands. Porto<br />
Montenegro Village - Ozana, Tivat, tel.: +382<br />
(0)32 660 960<br />
noé & Zoë<br />
Kids fashion, toys and bedding. Porto Montenegro<br />
Village - Ozana, Tivat, http://www.<br />
noe-zoe.com, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 967<br />
ChuCs<br />
<strong>The</strong> best quality beach wear for ladies and<br />
gentlemen. Porto Montenegro Village-Ozana,<br />
Tivat, chucsdiveshop.com, tel.: +382 (32)<br />
661 076<br />
sAddler’s union<br />
Hand crafted leather precious goods. Porto<br />
Montenegro Village - Tara, Tivat, http://saddlersunion.com,<br />
tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960<br />
itAliA indePendent<br />
Trendy clothing and eyewear for men. Porto<br />
Montenegro Village -Tara, Tivat, italiaindependent.com,<br />
+382 (0)32 660 960<br />
Bambini B-4, Petra I Petrovića 1, Stari grad, tel. +382<br />
68 06 95 61. Fashion for children. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Bambola B-4, Njegoševa 26, Stari grad. Italian clothing<br />
for women. Also at Petra I Petrovića 22. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
00:00.<br />
De Mode Shop B-4, Njegoševa 1, Stari grad, tel. +382<br />
33 45 13 99. Underwear and swim wear for men and women.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Euromoda B-4, Slovenska Obala 11, tel. +382 33 45<br />
14 20, euromoda@t-com.me, www.tenero.me. Trendy<br />
clothes by Pal Zileri, Baldinini, Santoni and Armata Di Mare.<br />
Q Open 10:00-24:00 in July and Aug, 10:00-21:00 from<br />
Sept - May<br />
Lisca B-4, <strong>Stefan</strong>a Mitrova Ljubiše 9, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 33 45 17 12. Lingerie and swim wear for women.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.<br />
Oko B-4, Slovenska obala 11, tel. +382 69 21 73 42.<br />
Optics store with trendy frames and sunglasses. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 00:00.<br />
Paradiso B-2/3, 22. Novembra 7, tel. +382 33 45 11<br />
65. Trendy fashion for women. Also at Splendid Hotel. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Paradiso Outlet C-2, Jadranski put 37, tel. +382 33 45<br />
20 02. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Polini B-4, Njegoševa 16, Stari grad. Trendy Italian shoes.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 00:00.<br />
Tenero Fashion B/C-3, Mediteranska 8 (TQ Plaza),<br />
tel. +382 67 27 95 92, tenerofashion@t-com.me, www.<br />
tenero.me. High fashion multi-brend store with Pal Zileri,<br />
Baldinini, Santoni and Armata Di Mare. Q Open: 09:00-23:00<br />
in July and Aug, 09:00-22:00 from Sept - May<br />
Unico H-2, Bečići, Splendid Hotel, tel. +382 33 77 49<br />
30. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Women’s Store C-3, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 67<br />
56 18 71. Italian clothing and shoes for women. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 01:00.<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
GG Souvenir Shop B-4, Njegoševa 30, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 68 60 03 88. Get your gift or a souvenir from Montenegro<br />
here. Also in Museum of Budva courtyard, Slovenska<br />
obala and near the big bell in front of the Old Town. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 00:00.<br />
Mistica B-4, Petra I Petrovića bb, Stari grad, tel. +382<br />
69 08 07 29. Handmade souvenirs. Also at <strong>Stefan</strong>a Mitrova<br />
Ljubiše 19, in the Old Town. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Porto Montenegro<br />
JeWellery&WAtChes<br />
CArolinA buCCi<br />
Fine designer jewelry. Porto Montenegro Village<br />
– Ozana, Tivat, carolinabucci.com, tel.:<br />
+382 (32) 660 966<br />
MAWi<br />
Stunning bijoux pieces warn by celebrities.<br />
Porto Montenegro Village - Tara, Tivat, www.<br />
mawi.co.uk, tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960<br />
Zoe&MorgAn<br />
Luxury jewelry with a rock&roll edge. Porto<br />
Montenegro Village -Tara, Tivat, zoeandmorgan.com,<br />
tel.: +382 (0)32 660 960<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Porto Montenegro<br />
Art<br />
gAllery PiZAnA<br />
Showcasing talent from local and international<br />
artists. Porto Montenegro Village - Ozana,<br />
Tivat, pizana.me, tel.: +382 (0)67 896 132<br />
sPeCiAlity shoPs<br />
suPerMArKet ConCePt store<br />
A conceptual and a multifunctional space,<br />
or as they say, everything you can think of in<br />
one place. Porto Montenegro Village - Milena,<br />
Tivat, www.supermarket.rs<br />
FloWer shoP<br />
Porto Montenegro Village - Teuta, Tivat<br />
PolAr CleAn<br />
Laundry service. Porto Montenegro Village –<br />
Ozana, Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)32 684 077<br />
Food&drinK<br />
bonellA<br />
Fruits and vegetable market with juice bar.<br />
Porto Montenegro Village - Zeta, Tivat, www.<br />
agrogroup.me/bonella.html<br />
giFts&souvenirs<br />
AM/PM ConCePt store<br />
Range of handmade, sustainable and or-<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Slovenska obala 11,<br />
Budva<br />
Mediteranska 8,<br />
Budva - TQ Plaza<br />
www.tenero.me<br />
sHopping<br />
ganic products from the Bay of <strong>Kotor</strong> and<br />
beyond, all in one nautically themed space.<br />
Porto Montenegro Village – Ozana, Tivat, portomontenegro.com,<br />
tel.: +382 (0)32 661 041<br />
For the hoMe<br />
Prohouse<br />
<strong>In</strong>terior design company supplying furniture<br />
lines from Italy and abroad. Porto Montenegro<br />
Village – Teuta, Tivat, prohousecg.me, tel.:<br />
+382 (0)20 405 045<br />
booKs&MAgAZines<br />
<strong>City</strong> booKstore<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational books and magazines and coffee<br />
bar. Porto Montenegro Village – Teuta,<br />
Tivat, novaknjiga.com<br />
Jewelry & Watches<br />
Old Time Watch Shop B-4, Petra Prvog Petrovića 23,<br />
Stari grad, tel. +382 33 45 28 80. Chronotech, Jaques<br />
Lemans, Fossil, Diesel and more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
Tuš Jewelry B-4, Njegoševa 20, Stari grad, tel. +382<br />
33 45 21 30. Modern jewelry, some hand made. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Sports & Outdoor<br />
Mega Sport B-4, Njegoševa 9, Stari grad, tel. +382 33<br />
45 34 51. Various high quality sports equipment, including<br />
Nike. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
2012<br />
51
52 <strong>Kotor</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> views of <strong>Kotor</strong> Bay from the fortifications above the old town are worth the (steep, slippery) climb, photo by Georgios<br />
Giannopoulos<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong>, known as Cattaro in medieval times, has the most<br />
dramatic setting of any town along the Mediterranean<br />
Sea.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the far corner of the impressive <strong>Kotor</strong> Bay, surrounded<br />
by 1,400 metre high mountains, its medieval stone<br />
churches and houses huddle together within a small<br />
triangle of mighty fortress walls, squeezed between the<br />
waterfront and the mountains raising sheer up behind. It’s<br />
been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, and you’d<br />
be mad not to visit.<br />
With a population of 14,000 it is situated just 80km from<br />
Podgorica, 22km from Budva and 90km from Dubrovnik<br />
across the border in Croatia, and is easily reached by bus.<br />
Getting Around<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong> is quite small, easy to get around and easy to get<br />
to, with buses shuttling up and down the coast and to<br />
Podgorica all day.<br />
Bus station Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 32 32 58 09.<br />
With it’s unique bombed-out look, <strong>Kotor</strong>’s bus station is a<br />
10-minute walk south of the old town and has smashing<br />
views of the rockface directly behind. If you want to use a<br />
bus, you’ll have to brush up on your Cyrillic, as it is beyond<br />
the city’s budget to post the destination names in Latin<br />
script. <strong>The</strong>re’s a ticket office but they don’t speak foreign<br />
languages and you have to buy most tickets from the driver<br />
anyway, so simply rock up 15 minutes before departure.<br />
QOpen 06:00 - 21:00.<br />
Where to stay<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong> has many small hotels and apartments both in and<br />
outside the old town. Beware that in summer the noise<br />
from the bars in much of the old town are such that you<br />
won’t get much sleep until daybreak - and that’s when the<br />
sweepers come and clang the bins about. Choose your<br />
room very carefully.<br />
Hotels<br />
Astoria Stari Grad 322, Trg od Pošte, tel. +382 32 30<br />
27 20/+382 69 77 55 22, fax +382 32 30 27 21, kotor@astoriamontenegro.com,<br />
www.astoriamontenegro.<br />
com. With only nine surprisingly spacious rooms set in a<br />
beautifully restored 14th century palace, Astoria is really in<br />
a class of its own when it comes to accommodation in the<br />
old town - and not only <strong>Kotor</strong>’s old town, but anywhere. <strong>The</strong><br />
gorgeous rooms are complimented by staff that not only provides<br />
excellent service, but also seems genuinely welcoming<br />
and thoughtful to the needs and desires of guests. If you’re<br />
thinking of splurging only once during your trip, let this be the<br />
place. Perhaps the only drawback about staying here is that<br />
wherever you stay next will be disappointing in comparison.<br />
Q 9 rooms (singles €120/180, doubles €150/230, suites<br />
€180/280 in low/high season). ABKW<br />
Cattaro Stari Grad 433, tel. +382 32 31 10 00, fax<br />
+382 32 31 10 80, cattarohotel@t-com.me, www.<br />
cattarohotel.com. One of <strong>Kotor</strong>’s best hotels, built inside<br />
the reconstructed Napoleontic theatre and a wing of the<br />
duke’s palace, with all rooms overlooking the main square.<br />
<strong>The</strong> décor is classy, with flatscreen TVs embedded in dark<br />
wooden frames. Apartments are large and sleep three<br />
people. <strong>The</strong> hotel also has a casino upstairs. Q 20 rooms<br />
(singles €69/89, doubles €99/119, suites€180/230 in low/<br />
high season). POARFBKW hhhh<br />
Forza Mare Kriva bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35 00,<br />
fax +382 32 33 35 20, info@forzamare.com, www.forzamare.com.<br />
Do yourself a favour and book a room right now<br />
for this 5-star boutique hotel tucked away on the coast a few<br />
kilometres north of <strong>Kotor</strong>. If you succeed in securing one of the<br />
ten highly in demand suites, you’ll be in good company - we’d<br />
love to list the names that are rumoured to have stayed here,<br />
but that would probably get us in trouble. What’s the draw?<br />
Large individually designed and themed suites, first-rate facilities<br />
(including a spa and wellness centre, outdoor pool, gym<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Tourist information<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Office Stari Grad, tel. +382<br />
32 32 59 50/+382 32 32 28 86, tokotor@t-com.<br />
me, www.tokotor.com. <strong>Kotor</strong>‘s tourist information<br />
office is in a kiosk just outside the main city gate. Staff<br />
hand out free maps. Visitors can rent an audio guide (€1/<br />
hr) that has a commentaried walk through the old town.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Forza Cattaro Trg od oružja 432, Stari grad, tel.<br />
+382 32 30 40 68, forzacattaro@t-com.me, www.<br />
forzamare.com. Guides, tours, transfers, hotel and<br />
travel bookings from a helpful travel agent cum souvenir<br />
shop right inside the city’s main gate. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00.<br />
and seaside dining), and discrete professional service to start<br />
with. If you’re splashing out anyway, the deluxe rooms with<br />
sea views are well worth the premium. Q 10 rooms (doubles<br />
€220-322 from June - Sept, €180-252 in April, May and Oct,<br />
closed from Nov- Mar). PAFLBKDCW<br />
Monte Cristo Stari Grad 423/424, tel. +382 32 32 24<br />
58/+382 69 71 33 58, fax +382 32 32 24 59, office@<br />
montecristo.co.me, www.montecristo.co.me. Situated in<br />
a 13th century palace on a lovely little square in the middle of<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong>’s old town, the Monte Cristo exudes a certain charm and<br />
authenticity that few can match. <strong>The</strong> rooms are all uniquely<br />
designed in order to accommodate the floorplan of the<br />
ancient building, and the care that went into choosing each<br />
piece of furniture is immediately evident. Of course modern<br />
amenities (LCD and satellite TV, broadband internet, etc) are<br />
also included. Breakfast on the small terrace overlooking<br />
the square is an absolutely sublime experience, and all but<br />
guarantees a perfect start to the day. Q 7 rooms (standard<br />
doubles €75-110, deluxe doubles €90-130, 3-person suite<br />
€115-175, 4-person suite €150-200). PJAKW<br />
Palazzo Radomiri Dobrota 220, tel. +382 32 33 31<br />
72, fax +382 32 33 31 76, info@palazzoradomiri.com,<br />
www.palazzoradomiri.com. <strong>The</strong> consensus opinion is that<br />
Palazzo Radomiri is perfect, and although we try to avoid<br />
making such absolutist statements we find little reason<br />
to disagree. Built in the early 18th century by a family of<br />
wealthy sea captains, the Venetian-era palace has been<br />
painstakingly restored to its original condition, and outfitted<br />
ever so carefully with all of the modern amenities one would<br />
expect from a four-star boutique hotel. <strong>The</strong> same care and<br />
attention to detail that went into its restoration is also shown<br />
to guests, many of whom happily return at the first available<br />
opportunity. Rooms vary greatly in size, price and views, but<br />
all the pertinent info can be found on their website. Q 10<br />
rooms (singles €60-170, doubles €90-240, family suites<br />
€120-260). Closed from Oct - April except for group bookings.<br />
PTAFLKCW<br />
Splendido Glavati bb, Prčanj, tel. +382 32 30 17 00,<br />
fax +382 32 33 62 22, hotel.splendido@t-com.me, www.<br />
splendido-hotel.com. Just out of town, a short taxi ride along<br />
the very scary road to the Kamenari ferry crossing, this splendidly<br />
located 18th century building has great views over <strong>Kotor</strong><br />
and the bay, a pool and private beach. It’s named after the first<br />
ship to sail around the world from <strong>Kotor</strong> (which actually came<br />
back). <strong>The</strong> rooms in the main building are small, but those in<br />
the newer annex are fine. Q 43 rooms (doubles €135-145,<br />
apartments €150-200 in July and Aug, €88-125, €106-160<br />
from Sept - May). PHALBKCW hhhh<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong><br />
2012<br />
53
54 <strong>Kotor</strong><br />
Vardar Stari Grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, fax +382<br />
32 32 50 74, info@hotelvardar.com, www.hotelvardar.<br />
com. Right on <strong>Kotor</strong>’s main square and equipped with one<br />
of the most popular terraces, the Vardar is named after a<br />
river in Macedonia and has comfortable rooms that provide<br />
great views of the bustle in the streets around. For business<br />
types there’s wifi and a conference room, for bons vivants<br />
there’s a wellness centre and a cigar lounge. Q 23 rooms<br />
(singles €125, doubles €185, apartments €220-255 in July<br />
and Aug, €95-115, €125-155, €165-230 from Sept - May).<br />
PHAFLEKDW hhhh<br />
Vila Panonija Dobrota 1, tel. +382 32 33 48 93,<br />
vilapanonija@t-com.me, www.vilapanonija.com. Located<br />
just a few minutes drive from the <strong>Kotor</strong> proper in the<br />
settlement of Dobrota, Panonija is a great option for bed<br />
and breakfast if avoiding the bus and boat-loads of tourists<br />
that stream into the old town during the summer. It is a true<br />
villa, built in stone in a traditional style. <strong>The</strong> seven rooms are<br />
cosy, and most offer some view of the bay, including a couple<br />
with terrace on which you can also enjoy your breakfast. <strong>The</strong><br />
dining room downstairs has some fine stained glass work,<br />
and has the ambience of some kind of medieval manor or<br />
castle. Q 7 rooms (singles €50, doubles €80, triples €99).<br />
AK<br />
Villa Duomo Stari Grad 385, tel./fax +382 32 32<br />
31 11, tel. +382 32 32 30 30, info@villaduomo.com,<br />
www.villaduomo.com. A beautiful three-storey Renaissance<br />
home transformed into a boutique hotel. <strong>The</strong> rooms<br />
and apartments inside retain their old stone walls, but now<br />
have gleaming marble floors and modern bathrooms. Q 13<br />
apartments (singles €120, doubles €120-135, triples €185,<br />
suites €240-250). PALBW hhhh<br />
Hostels<br />
Montenegro Hostel <strong>Kotor</strong> Stari Grad, Trg od Muzeja<br />
390, tel. +382 69 03 97 51/+382 69 27 05 10, montenegrohostel@gmail.com,<br />
www.montenegrohostel.<br />
com. Montenegro’s first and still best chain of locally-owned<br />
hostels, the <strong>Kotor</strong> branch is where everything started, on<br />
Museum Square right next to the city’s famous Maritime<br />
Museum. This place has a great backpacker vibe and<br />
several sociable common rooms, and if you don’t feel like<br />
making use of the kitchen facilities, they offer all-you-can-eat<br />
lunch or dinner offer for only €5. <strong>The</strong> in-house travel agency<br />
can arrange all kinds of activities, including the famous ‚Big<br />
Montenegro’ tour that covers the entire country in a single<br />
day. Stay consecutive six nights in any of their three hostels<br />
and the seventh is free. Q 8 rooms (doubles €25-30, triples<br />
€37-45, dorm beds €11-14). PJKW<br />
Old Town Hostel Stari Grad 284, tel. +382 32 32<br />
53 17, info@hostel-kotor.me, www.hostel-kotor.me. If<br />
you’re like us, you’re drawn to <strong>Kotor</strong> by the unique romance<br />
of a well-preserved Venetian city on one of the world’s most<br />
picturesque bays, and would love to spend your nights here<br />
sleeping comfortably in a beautifully restored 13th century<br />
palace. And if you’re like us, such accommodation sadly<br />
exceeds your budget many times over. Luckily for you (and<br />
us) the folks who just opened the Old Town Hostel have<br />
now made it possible to do just this for only €10 per night.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y also have a splendid lounge area, ample bathrooms<br />
and kitchen, several private rooms and even rent electric<br />
bicycles. Q 9 rooms (doubles €30-35, 6/10-bed dorms<br />
€10-12 per bed). PW<br />
Where to eat<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong> gets plenty of tourists in the summer months, and<br />
the old town and immediate surroundings have plenty<br />
of quality places to eat. Later at night, the narrow alleys<br />
burst with young people enjoying drinks and amazingly<br />
loud music.<br />
Astoria Stari Grad 322, tel. +382 32 30 27 20/+382<br />
69 77 55 22, kotor@astoriamontenegro.com, www.<br />
astoriamontenegro.com. Like its sister property in nearby<br />
Budva, the house restaurant at Astoria’s old town boutique<br />
hotel in <strong>Kotor</strong> offers exquisitely prepared, presented and<br />
served international and fusion cuisine that ranges from Japanese<br />
and Thai to Italian and Montenegrin, and most things in<br />
between. <strong>The</strong> ambience here is a bit different though, with<br />
large format poetry in several languages on the walls and an<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong>’s famous clock tower used to lean a bit to the right,<br />
but was finally straightened in the 1980s<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
enormous artificial tree breaking through an opening in the<br />
ceiling to the floor above. <strong>The</strong>y also have ample seating in<br />
the square outside. An excellent dining experience all around.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PJABW<br />
Bastion Stari grad 517, 29 Novembra, tel. +382 32 32<br />
21 16. Away from the more touristy parts of the old town,<br />
Bastion is a fine restaurant serving fresh fish dishes and other<br />
Montenegrin specialities beside the city’s northern gate. It<br />
has a pleasantly shady terrace on the quiet square in front of<br />
the restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAB<br />
Galion Šuranj bb, tel. +382 32 32 50 54, galion@t-com.<br />
me, www.hotelvardar.com. One of the biggest problems<br />
with dining within the old town walls of <strong>Kotor</strong> is that you can’t<br />
see the forest for the trees - sure there are some lovely<br />
squares in which to dine, but they simply don’t offer you any<br />
perspective. It’s for exactly this reason that people venture<br />
several hundred metres around the harbour to Galion, which<br />
sits literally on top of the water facing the souther city walls.<br />
Perhaps the best part is that the food and service are actually<br />
almost as good as the views. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 01:00. PALBW<br />
Konoba Scala Santa Trg od Salate, tel. +382 69 29<br />
05 12. Said to be the oldest restaurant in <strong>Kotor</strong>, it definitely<br />
looks the part, absolutely oozing authentic charm from every<br />
crack in the ancient wooden beams that ever so tenuously<br />
keep the place standing. Quirky touches - such as sea urchins<br />
mounted in bird cages - blend into the more standard<br />
maritime-themed décor, giving patrons plenty to look at while<br />
waiting for their meals, which will inevitably be some kind of<br />
fish and/or seafood platter. A highly recommendable experience<br />
in every regard. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JB<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong><br />
La Pasteria Trg Svetog Tripuna, tel. +382 32 32 22 69.<br />
Right opposite the cathedral and with great views from the<br />
terrace, this Italian restaurant serves breakfast till 14:00,<br />
and has lepinja bread sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, meat and<br />
fish dishes and pancakes on the menu. At night the candlelit<br />
tables form the best dining spot in town - reservations recommended.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PABW<br />
Luna Rossa Stari Grad 423/424, tel. +382 32 32 24<br />
58, www.montecristo.co.me. Set on the ground floor<br />
of the same 13th century palace as Hotel Monte Cristo,<br />
while seated at one of the sturdy wooden and wrought-iron<br />
tables in the pretty little square outside you’d be forgiven for<br />
thinking you were in a village in the Tuscan countryside. <strong>The</strong><br />
menu is focussed but appetising, and gives you the feeling<br />
that every single dish has earned its spot on the page, with<br />
New York steaks and seafood kebabs among those making<br />
the cut with various other Montenegrin and Mediterranean<br />
specialities. Try to get one of the tables on the small terrace<br />
upstairs, which offers the most romantic dining in <strong>Kotor</strong>.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJB<br />
Royal Trg od oružja, Stari grad, tel. +382 32 31 10 00,<br />
www.royal.cattarohotel.com. Housed in what was formerly<br />
part of the Napoleon <strong>The</strong>atre, so named because it was<br />
specially built for the pint-sized emperor while Montenegro<br />
was part of his Adriatic territories, dining at Royal is indeed<br />
a royal experience. Designed to recreate the atmosphere<br />
present during Napoleon’s time, the main hall has a noticeably<br />
Baroque feel to it, with the most prominent feature being<br />
the large classically painted portraits covering the walls. Try<br />
to request a table on the balcony outside, it only has room<br />
for 16, but offers the best views of the main square. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. ABW<br />
2012<br />
55
56 <strong>Kotor</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong>re’s lots to explore in <strong>Kotor</strong>’s old town<br />
Stari Mlini Ljuta bb, Dobrota, tel. +382 32 33 35<br />
55, www.starimlini.com. Seven kilometres north of the<br />
old town, the Old Mill (built in 1776) sits prettily beside the<br />
gurgling Ljuta river which springs from an impressive gorge.<br />
It’s well worth the trip, as the food is at least as good as the<br />
setting, with wonderful, fresh local fish and meat dishes,<br />
bread and wine. Perhaps the best dining in the bay. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. PALB<br />
Vardar Stari grad 476, tel. +382 32 32 50 84, www.<br />
hotelvardar.com. Three parts beige and one part red<br />
leather, the interior here exudes sophistication, as does the<br />
separate cigar lounge down the hall for those who wish to<br />
indulge with some of Cuba’s (preferably accompanied by some<br />
of Scotland’s) finest prior to or after their meal. Diners have<br />
an eclectic menu to choose from, which includes Mexican,<br />
curry and modern Montenegrin dishes among others, and<br />
are helped in their selection by a steady soundtrack of softly<br />
played electronic music. We usually stop by for a light lunch -<br />
the gourmet sandwiches are mouthwatering, as are many of<br />
the starters - followed by arguably the best espresso in town.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. ABW<br />
Nightlife<br />
If anything, nightlife in <strong>Kotor</strong> is loud. Damn loud. After dark,<br />
every quaint little alley in town reverberates to the not-sosophisticated<br />
thumping of local techno anthems. Squares<br />
get packed with well-dressed people drinking beer and<br />
cocktails. It’s quite something.<br />
Bars<br />
Cesare Stari Grad 327, tel. +382 32 32 59 13, admcesare@t-com.me.<br />
With a light Roman Empire theme - think<br />
Julius’ head in the logo and Latin mottos above the bar - Cesare<br />
is currently <strong>Kotor</strong>’s most popular bar. On weekend nights<br />
the dance floor fills with well-dressed people partying to live<br />
music. Come earlier to enjoy the food, the menu includes<br />
Italian and Montenegrin dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PAEBW<br />
Citadella Stari Grad 433, tel. +382 67 24 98 17, www.<br />
cattarohotel.com. Part of the Cattaro-Maximus complex, in<br />
the summer there is no better place to grab a coffee or light<br />
snack during the day or a drink at night, than the Citadella<br />
open bar. Something like a rooftop bar, only in this case the<br />
rooftop in question is actually the fortifications that surround<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong>’s old town, offering great views both out towards the bay<br />
(you’re almost on top of the cruise ships when the dock) and<br />
to the ramparts above the town. It has a capacity of around<br />
400, and some nights feels like it exceeds even that. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 01:00. PAEB<br />
Evergreen Pjaca od Cirkula, Stari grad. <strong>The</strong> closest thing<br />
that <strong>Kotor</strong> has to a jazz club, they even have live concerts<br />
from time to time, usually outside on the square during summer<br />
or at festivals. Located next to the Maritime Museum<br />
and opposite Hostel Montenegro, it’s a popular destination<br />
for guests of the latter. <strong>The</strong>y also do basic Italian food and<br />
sandwiches, but it feels decidedly more like a pub or a café<br />
than a restaurant to us. QOpen 08:00:24:00.<br />
Roma Pub Trg od Salate, tel. +382 69 239 368. A<br />
relatively new pub on a smaller square in the south of the old<br />
town, a bit removed from the more touristy places. It draws<br />
a youngish crowd of backpackers, budget travellers and the<br />
like, with a few locals usually thrown into the mix for good<br />
measure. A fine place to enjoy a cold draught beer during the<br />
hot summer months, or stay warm with some spirits in the<br />
bitterly cold winter. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. JBW<br />
Clubs<br />
Maximus Stari Grad 232, Trg od Oružja, tel. +382 67<br />
21 67 67, www.discomaximus.com. Depending upon who<br />
you talk to Maximus is either the best club in Montenegro,<br />
the best club in Europe or the best club in the world, and we<br />
can’t think of any good reason to disagree with any of these<br />
opinions. This massive complex is literally built right into the<br />
walls of <strong>Kotor</strong>’s old and is a feat of both engineering, design<br />
and architecture, with a mind-boggling capacity of around<br />
4000 clubbers. Several dance floors, bars and lounges are<br />
located across three-levels, each equipped with state-ofthe-art<br />
technology but possessing its own distinct vibe.<br />
Maximus hosts big names throughout the year, but things<br />
get the craziest in August during the annual Refresh Music<br />
Festival. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun.<br />
Admission €5-6. PAE<br />
What to see<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong> has a small, atmospheric old town jam-packed with<br />
lovely low-key sights and tiny alleys with scraggy cats in<br />
the bins. <strong>Kotor</strong>’s magical location comes at a price, and<br />
earthquakes have devastated the city more than once -<br />
the last violent one was in 1979. Each time <strong>Kotor</strong> has been<br />
rebuilt, and it’s not easy to say what’s original and what’s<br />
not - which in itself is a compliment to the restoration<br />
crews.<br />
Clock Tower Trg od Oružja, Stari Grad. Construction on<br />
the main square’s hulking clock tower was started in 1602<br />
and combined Baroque and Gothic architecture. But, this<br />
being the Balkans, it still was not finished when the 1667<br />
earthquake struck, causing the tower to tilt. After the 1979<br />
quake, history was finally set straight and it was rebuilt (and<br />
completed) in upright position.<br />
Maritime Museum (Pomorski Muzej) Trg Grgurina,<br />
Stari Grad, tel. +382 (0)32 30 47 20, www.museummaritimum.com.<br />
One glance at the mountains around town<br />
and you’ll see the importance of seafaring history for <strong>Kotor</strong>.<br />
<strong>The</strong> rambling Grgurina palace has models of pot-bellied local<br />
trader’s ships, maps, period rooms recreating a merchant’s<br />
office and a warship interior, Dutch and English nautical instruments<br />
and guidebooks and halls full of old weapons. <strong>The</strong>re’s<br />
also a display on the 1918 mutiny here on the Austrian navy’s<br />
warship St. Georg. Look for the display of painted bottles,<br />
used by seamen to send desperate messages to their<br />
beloved ones back home. A <strong>Kotor</strong> secret is revealed here,<br />
as one of the rooms has a surprising view of a lush rooftop<br />
garden. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun 18:00 -<br />
23:00. Admission €4, includes audioguide.<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Old Town Ruins While most of the buildings in <strong>Kotor</strong>’s<br />
old town were gloriously restored at some point over the<br />
past three decades following the massive earthquake of<br />
1979, here and there you can still find reminders of just how<br />
devastating this disaster actually was. Cracked, roofless<br />
and completely overgrown, but still standing defiantly, these<br />
classical ruins offer an interesting contrast to the rest of<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong> and most other Venetian towns elsewhere along the<br />
Adriatic. Our single favourite is the old church just inside the<br />
southernmost gate, which you can really get a good look at<br />
by hiking up the steep stairs to the left, but other photogenic<br />
specimens can be found in the east of town along the less<br />
touristy pathways leading upwards.<br />
St Luke’s Church (Crkva Svetog Luke) Trg Sv.<br />
Luke, Stari Grad. Opposite St. Nicholas’ Church, this pretty,<br />
small church was built in 1195 by Mauro Kacafrangi and his<br />
wife Bona. ‚for the salvation of their souls’. <strong>The</strong>y must have<br />
done something right, because it’s the only building in town<br />
that survived the 1979 earthquake undamaged. <strong>In</strong>side there<br />
are two altars, for Catholic and Orthodox believers, and the<br />
floor is paved with gravestones as people were buried here<br />
until the 1930s.<br />
St Mary’s Church (Crkva Svete Marije) Trg Sv.<br />
Marije od Rijeke, Stari Grad. A small 14th century church<br />
on the foundations of a much older church. <strong>The</strong> interior reveals<br />
some 17th century frescoes and an exquisite 14th century<br />
wooden crucifix.<br />
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva Svetog Nikole) Trg<br />
Sv. Nikola, Stari Grad. <strong>The</strong> gloomy Orthodox St Nicholas’<br />
Church has shafts of sunlight piercing through the devote<br />
atmosphere, with believers lighting up sputtering candles in<br />
front of the soot-stained icon screen.<br />
St Triphon’s Cathedral (Katedrala Svetog Tripuna)<br />
Trg od Katedrala, Stari Grad. <strong>The</strong> most impressive church in<br />
town is the 12th century St. Triphon’s Cathedral, overlooking a<br />
pretty square and framed by the massive mountains behind.<br />
Consecrated in 1166, it’s undergone enough restoration<br />
projects to make even a British property buyer dizzy. <strong>The</strong><br />
façade and towers were rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1667<br />
earthquake. <strong>The</strong> impressive Romanesque interior has beautiful<br />
original architectural features and a few surviving 14th<br />
century frescoes. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission €1.<br />
Nature has slowly started to reclaim this ruined church just<br />
inside the old town’s southernmost gate<br />
<strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com<br />
Fortifications<br />
Shopping<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong> 4.5 kilometres of ramparts and walls surrounding the<br />
city and creeping up Sv. Ivana hill are <strong>Kotor</strong>’s landmark<br />
feature. A fortress has crowned the hill since Illyrian<br />
and Byzantine times, but the massive defence system<br />
you see now was first planned in the 13th century, and<br />
was added to by the by the Venetians and Austrians. It<br />
remained in use, on and off, until the end of the Second<br />
World War. <strong>The</strong> walls are 20m high and 16m thick in<br />
some places.<br />
<strong>The</strong> lower town is surrounded by a partly restored wall<br />
with Venetian-era and older towers, and bastions named<br />
Gurdic, Korner, Valijer, Citadela (now a café), Bembo (a<br />
theatre) and Riva. Three gates give access to the old<br />
town, the main Sea Gate from 1555 (then accessing<br />
directly to the quay), the northern gate from 1540 with a<br />
bridge across the Skurda river, and the 17th-19th century<br />
southern gate with a bridge across the Gurdic river.<br />
Above <strong>Kotor</strong>, the city walls zigzag to the ruined hilltop<br />
Sv. Ivana fortress, 260m above sea level. Two steep<br />
staircases (one near Sv. Marija, the other close to the<br />
cathedral) make their way up the hill, past the Lady of<br />
Salvation church (Crkva Gospe od Spasa), halfway up.<br />
<strong>The</strong> fortress can be visited, though it’s best to avoid the<br />
hottest hours of the day. Bring plenty of water and mind<br />
your step - the fortress is in a pretty bad shape despite<br />
renovations. <strong>The</strong> fantastic views from the top over the<br />
bay and the gorge directly behind the fortress are worth<br />
the struggle up.<br />
Shopping centres<br />
Kamelija Shopping Centar Trg Mata Petrovića, tel.<br />
+382 32 33 53 80, info@kamelija.me, www.kamelija.<br />
me. Seamlessly combining a an ancient villa with a larger<br />
modern wing, Kamelija first opened its doors to the public<br />
in the 1980s, and has recently received a complete renovation<br />
to bring it into the 21st century. Various shops, cafés<br />
and other services can be found on its air-conditioned three<br />
floors, with the majority catering to those in need of clothing,<br />
shoes or other fashion items. <strong>The</strong>re‘s also a pharmacy and<br />
well-stocked grocery store on the ground floor. Just north of<br />
the old town walls, parking is free for a time corresponding to<br />
how much you purchase. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
Souvenirs<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong>ska Suvenirnica Trg Svetog Luke, tel. +382 69<br />
68 50 18. <strong>The</strong> old town‘s largest souvenir shop stocks the<br />
standard selection of postcards, magnets, shot glasses<br />
and various other trinkets that tourists like to buy for underwhelmed<br />
people back home. However, if you really want to<br />
impress friends and family with something special, ask the<br />
manager to show you some of the most exclusive items on<br />
hand, which include rare antique lead soldiers that are the<br />
only of their kind in the Balkans, icons blessed by local priests,<br />
and what we were told was an authentic Faberge egg. Credit<br />
cards and secured bank transfers gladly accepted! QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00.<br />
montenegro.inyourpocket.com<br />
2012<br />
57
58 direCtory<br />
Banks<br />
Komercijalna banka E-3, Podkošljun bb, tel. +382 33<br />
42 63 00, www.kombankbd.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Prva Banka B-3, Mediteranska 5, tel. +382 33 40 39<br />
36, www.prvabankacg.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Beauty & Wellness<br />
Energy Clinic A-4, Mediteranska 2 (Hotel Avala), tel.<br />
+382 33 44 10 00, www.energyclinic.com. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hospitals & Clinics<br />
Dom zdravlja Budva D-2, Popa Jola Zeca bb, tel. +382<br />
33 45 35 01, dzb@t-com.me, www.dialysiscenter.me.<br />
<strong>In</strong>surance<br />
Uniqa D-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 33 00,<br />
www.uniqa.me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun.<br />
Laundry<br />
Pingvin C-2, Jadranski put bb, tel. +382 33 45 41 11.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Mail<br />
Main Post Office (Pošta Crne Gore) C-3, Mediteranska<br />
8, tel. +382 33 45 24 01, www.postacg.me. Also at<br />
Sports<br />
Budva Tennis Center E-3, Jadranski put bb, tel.<br />
+32 68 41 50 41. Q Open: June - August 07:00-00:00,<br />
September - May 08:00-22:00.<br />
Montenegro Adventure Centre G-1, Lapčići bb,<br />
tel. +382 67 58 06 64, www.montenegrofly.com.<br />
Paragliding and tandem flights, cycling, mountain biking,<br />
walking, trekking, rafting, canyoning.<br />
Montenegro Paragliding J-2, Slobode bb, <strong>Sveti</strong><br />
<strong>Stefan</strong>, tel. +382 67 81 10 91. Pragliding jumps from<br />
Brajići (760m), for €60 (transport from and to you place of<br />
stay included), CD with your jump video gratis.<br />
Positive Fitness Club E/F-2, Žrtava fašizma bb, tel.<br />
+382 68 40 20 30. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Water Sport E-4, Slovenska obala bb, tel. +382 67<br />
62 24 36, www.watersport<strong>budva</strong>.com. Different water<br />
sport activities, such as: jet ski, parasailing, speed boats,<br />
fly-fish, banana, tire etc. Also in MC Marina (Old Town) and<br />
Splendid Hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
the Bus station, as well as Podkošljun, Bečići and <strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong>.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Mobile Phones<br />
Telenor B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 69 11 88,<br />
<strong>budva</strong>@telenor.me, www.telenor.me. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
T-Mobile B-3, Mediteranska 23, tel. +382 67 15 00,<br />
call.centar@telekom.me, www.t-mobile.me. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Aponia C-2, Popa Jola Zeca, Sportski centar 11, tel.<br />
+382 33 45 50 82. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Porto Montenegro<br />
beAuty And Wellness<br />
PurA vidA dAily sPA<br />
Full range of beauty treatments as well as<br />
on-call and yacht services. Porto Montenegro<br />
Village – Zeta, Tivat, puravida-spa.com, tel.:<br />
+382 (0)63 240 202<br />
hAirdressers<br />
vlAdo hAir design<br />
Cut, color and styling for both men and<br />
women. Porto Montenegro Village – Zeta,<br />
Tivat, tel.: +382 (0)67 300 768<br />
oPtiCiAns<br />
oPtiKA oKo<br />
Stocking the latest designer sunglasses.<br />
Porto Montenegro Village – Tara, Tivat, tel.:<br />
+382 (0)69 792 222<br />
PhArMACies<br />
MAxiMA<br />
Porto Montenegro Village - Teuta, Tivat, tel.:<br />
+382 (0)32 540 240<br />
Budva <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> <strong>budva</strong>.inyourpocket.com
62 index<br />
26th <strong>The</strong>atre <strong>City</strong> 47<br />
Admiral 18<br />
Adria D.M.C. 10<br />
Afrodita 50<br />
Aleksandar 35<br />
Alexandra 23<br />
Amon 8<br />
Aponia 58<br />
Aquarius 18<br />
Arena 40<br />
Astoria 16, 27, 52<br />
Avala 16<br />
Babaluu 27<br />
Bambini 50<br />
Bambola 50<br />
Bečići 42<br />
Bella 23<br />
Bella Vista 16<br />
Bojana 26<br />
Bon Voyage 10<br />
Bruno 27<br />
Budva Marina 45<br />
Budva Tennis Center 58<br />
Bujković 26<br />
Bus station 52<br />
Camp Tipi Hostel 22<br />
Captain 24<br />
Casper Bar 38<br />
Cattaro 52<br />
Cesare 56<br />
Chest O'Shea's Irish Pub 38<br />
Church of St John the Baptist 44<br />
Church of St Mary of Punta 44<br />
Church of St Sabas the<br />
Sanctified 44<br />
Church of the Holy Trinity 44<br />
Citadella 56<br />
<strong>City</strong> Car 10<br />
<strong>City</strong> Club 27<br />
Contessa 24<br />
daMonte 24<br />
Dancing Girl Statue 46<br />
De Mode Shop 50<br />
Dimpex 10<br />
Discoteque Trocadero 40<br />
Dona Kod Nikole 27<br />
D & R 27<br />
Early Christian Basilica 45<br />
El Mundo Cocktail Bar 40<br />
Energy Clinic 58<br />
Euromoda 50<br />
Evergreen 56<br />
Fineso 20<br />
Fontana 20<br />
Fortaleza 40<br />
Forza Cattaro 53<br />
Forza Mare 52<br />
Fratello 27<br />
Galion 55<br />
Garden Caffe 28<br />
GG Souvenir Shop 50<br />
Grbalj 20<br />
Greco 38<br />
Grill Bašta Lim 28<br />
Guvance 42<br />
Hacienda 40<br />
Hello 10<br />
Hemingway 28<br />
Hong Kong 28<br />
Horošo (Xорошо) 36<br />
Iberostar Bellevue 16<br />
<strong>In</strong>vest Montenegro 24<br />
Jadran 28<br />
Jaz 42<br />
Jeff 38<br />
Juice Bar 28<br />
Kamelija Shopping Centar 57<br />
Kamenovo 42<br />
Kangaroo 20<br />
Komercijalna banka 58<br />
Konoba Feral 30<br />
Konoba Galeb 30<br />
Konoba Stari Grad 30<br />
Korkovado 40<br />
Kosmač Fortress 47<br />
<strong>Kotor</strong>ska Suvenirnica 57<br />
Kovačević 24, 26<br />
Kužina 30<br />
La Bocca 31<br />
La Pasteria 55<br />
Lisca 50<br />
Lord 31<br />
Luna Rossa 55<br />
Lux 24<br />
Maestral 16<br />
Magic 10<br />
Main Post Office (Pošta Crne<br />
Gore) 58<br />
Maltez 40<br />
Maradona 10 30<br />
Maroje Travel 10<br />
Maximus 56<br />
Max Prestige 20<br />
MB IceClub 40<br />
Mediteran 18<br />
Mega Sport 51<br />
Mena 20<br />
Miković 26<br />
Miločer 43<br />
Mistica 50<br />
Mixage 10<br />
Mogren 20, 43<br />
Mogren Fortress Ruins 46<br />
Mojo Budva 22<br />
Mona Lisa 31<br />
Monte Cristo 53<br />
Monteline Travel 10<br />
Montenegro 18<br />
Montenegro Adventure Centre 58<br />
Montenegro Airlines 8<br />
Montenegro Cruising 10<br />
Montenegro Hostel Budva 22<br />
Montenegro Hostel <strong>Kotor</strong> 54<br />
Montenegro Paragliding 58<br />
Moto Club BU-2 36<br />
Mozart 36<br />
Oaza 22<br />
Obala 31<br />
Odissey 22<br />
Oko 50<br />
Old Fisherman's Pub 31<br />
Old Time Watch Shop 51<br />
Old Town Hostel 54<br />
Olimp 32<br />
Oliva 22<br />
Open Art Studio 46<br />
Oregon 26<br />
O Sole Mio 32<br />
Pablo Picasso 32<br />
Palazzo Radomiri 53<br />
Paradiso 50<br />
Paradiso Outlet 50<br />
Parma 32<br />
Perla 32<br />
Perović 26<br />
Pilon 10<br />
Pingvin 58<br />
Pivnica Nik Gold 32<br />
Pizana 43<br />
Pizzeria Lav 32<br />
Plaža Café 36<br />
Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom<br />
Podgorica) 8<br />
Polini 50<br />
Porto 34<br />
Porto Pizana 34<br />
Positive Fitness Club 58<br />
Praskvica Monastery 48<br />
Promenade Food Stalls 30<br />
Prometheus 10<br />
Prva Banka 58<br />
Pržno 43<br />
Queen of Montenegro 18<br />
Rabello 34<br />
Residence 18<br />
Ričardova Glava 43<br />
Roman Necropolis 46<br />
Roma Pub 56<br />
R-Tours 10<br />
Šajo 22<br />
Saki 24<br />
Salus 24<br />
Sambra 34<br />
San Marino 34<br />
Shanghai 34<br />
Silver Holiday 10<br />
Sixt 10<br />
Sky Light 34<br />
Slava 10<br />
Slovenska Plaža 18, 43<br />
Sparta 40<br />
Splendido 53<br />
Stević 26<br />
Suđić 26<br />
Sun Hostel 23<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> Nikola Island 43, 48<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong>onik 26<br />
<strong>Sveti</strong> <strong>Stefan</strong> 43<br />
Talas M 10<br />
Tatjana 26<br />
Telenor 58<br />
Tenero Fashion 50<br />
Terrae 10<br />
Terrae Car 10<br />
<strong>The</strong> Citadel 47<br />
<strong>The</strong> Prince 40<br />
Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) 8<br />
T-Mobile 58<br />
Tomy 26<br />
Top Hill 40<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Office 53<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(<strong>In</strong>fo Point 1) 8<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(<strong>In</strong>fo Point 2) 8<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(<strong>In</strong>fo Point 3) 8<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(<strong>In</strong>fo Point 4) 8<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(<strong>In</strong>fo Point 5) 8<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(<strong>In</strong>fo Point 6) 8<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(<strong>In</strong>fo Point 7) 8<br />
Tourist Organization of Budva<br />
(Turistička organizacija Budve) 8<br />
Travel Centar 10<br />
Tri Ribara 35<br />
Trocadero Open Bar 40<br />
Tropico 35<br />
Tuš Jewelry 51<br />
Unico 50<br />
Uniqa 58<br />
Vardar 54, 56<br />
Velžon 26<br />
Vila Balkan 26<br />
Vila Panonija 54<br />
Villa Centar 26<br />
Villa Duomo 54<br />
Water Sport 58<br />
Women's Store 50<br />
Zeleni Gaj 35<br />
Zlatibor 35<br />
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