THE FLYING LADY - Rolls-Royce Owners' Club

291
THE FLYING LADY
No. 57-4
AUGUST, 1957
JOHN W. MCFARLANE, Editor
Huntington Hills, Wisner Road, Rochester 9. New York, U.S.A.
JOIIN R. UTZ, Associate Editor
140 Avon Road. Rochester 10, New York. U.S.A.
MISS MARY WINKELJOHN, Circulation Manager
Standard Printing Co., Celina. Ohio, U.S.A.
THE PERIODICAL OF THE ROLLS-ROYCE OWNERS' CLUB, INC.
N. Y. REGIONAL MEET, Wantagh, Long Island, had a
gratifying turnout on June 8, as shown in the picture
below. Host was land-owning (3 acres), banjo-playing,
octogenarian Jimmy Budlong who supplied parking
space, drinks, and a P.A. system. Some of cars present,
front to rear, were: P-III 3BU84 Mulliner close coupled
sedan (George Price); P-II 250AJS Brewster Newport
limo. (Bob Godley); P-II AMS Brewster sports sedan
(Monroe Mann); Silver Wraith LWSG 68 6-light saloon
(Dan Streeter, who allowed Ed. and Assoc. to sample-delicious!);
P-II shooting brake conversion of Barker
close coupled sedan (Ken Redford); Bentley Mk. VI
Park Ward Convertible (Bob Hilpert); P-I S154FR
Brewster Derby phaeton (J. McFarlane); and 20/25
GTR 20 Hooper sedan ("Rick" Richter). Masthead
shows some enthusiasts inspecting H. O'Connor's 20 HP
GNK32 tourer (very rare). After meet some gathered
Chez Godley for ice-box raid and yak fest.
COBLESKILL--H this reaches you in time, it is an
invitation. Even if you are not registered, come anyway
to Cobleskill, N.Y., Aug. 9, 10, ll--see p. 183.
SPOOK--A sprightly sporadical devoted to RROC administrative
affairs is available to all who are interested
in club work. Write R. F. Godley, 59 Laurel
Drive, Massapequa Park, Long Island, N.Y.
1957 The Rolls-Royce Owners' Club, Inc.
Lithographed in the United States of America
1910 Silver Ghost 1298 of Mr. S. J. Skinner (below)
which was judged handsomest car on recent Anglo-
American Rally. Mr. and Mrs. Skinner (standing) are
seen talking to Dame Sybil Thorndike and her husband,
Sir Lewis Casson, noted British acting couple, judges,
who honeymooned in similar car 50 years ago.
Copyright New York Times

292
MEXICO BY PHANTOM II
by Fred Kelly
Probably the severest service, other than racing
competition, that a passenger auto can undergo is pulling
a heavy house trailer in hot weather over rough,
twisty, mountainous roads. The drag of the trailer
forces the engine to operate under constant load for
long periods; the gears must be used to pull up steep
hills; brakes receive the severest service on the downgrade;
and the weight of the trailer on the rear of the
car overloads tires and wheel bearings as well as
stressing springs to their maximum.
This is the kind of ordeal through which I put my
1930 Phantom II early this year when I towed a 5000pound
house trailer from Scarsdale, N.Y., to Mexico
City, lived in it with my family for three months, then
made the return trip with trailer as far as Hot Springs,
Arkansas and soloed home for a total distance travelled
of 9850 miles.
The P-II is GN151, a right hand drive model which
had 38,000 miles on the speedometer at the start of
the trip. When I acquired the car as a chassis in 1954,
I completely disassembled the engine, thoroughly
cleaned all parts, renewed the top compression ring
of each piston, replaced the slipper flywheel linings
and Hardy flexible coupling, ground the valves, and
added a by-pass Purolator oil filter to the engine oiling
system. Subsequent to the trip a water-heated type
of intake manifold riser was put in place of the exhaust
heated variety which usually scales up and cracks after
a few months' service. A rather odd-appearing body
for the chassis was assembled from surplus Brewster
body sections discovered on the premises of Sam
Adelman.
The car was fitted with 21-inch wheels, ideal for
clearing the obstructions found on Mexican roads, and
five almost new Dunlop tires and reinforced tubes. A
massive trailer hitch was constructed on the rear of
the chassis but no overload springs, ride leveling de-
vices or other trailer hauling accessories were added
except connections for lights and electric brakes. The
ball of the hitch is 45 inches behind the rear axle of
the car.
The trailer is a 22-foot 1948 Travelo having one
axle and electric brakes with an unladen weight of
4200 pounds and an estimated laden weight of 4900
pounds. The trailer is 80 inches wide and stands almost
100 inches off the ground. Obviously the vehicle has
sufficient frontal area to offer considerable wind resistance.
It is not the ideal trailer for long, fast trips.
Top speed of car and trailer on a good level road
was about 65 mph but gas consumption was prohibitive
at such a speed. Most of our level travel was at 45 mph
at which speed we obtained a gas mileage of 7.8 mpg.
In the 3100 miles of roundabout travel from Scarsdale
to Mexico City, most of it in cold weather, we used
six quarts of No. 30 high detergent oil--an almost
miraculous lack of oil consumption for a car operating
under heavy load. Oil pressure never dropped below
22.5 psi even when engine was operating close to the
boiling point. Running at high speed (over 60 mph) on
the return trip from Hot Springs to Scarsdale, a distance
of 1398 miles, without trailer our oil consumption
was a quart for every 280 miles and we made 10.2
miles per gallon of low test gasoline.
Before leaving the United States to cross the border
at Laredo, Texas, we detected an engine "miss" which
was found to be caused by a no-clearance No. 6 exhaust
valve. All valves were readjusted as they had very
little clearance although a liberal setting of .003 inch
had been made before the start of the trip. This condition
recalled to mind the warning I had received
previously that P-I and P-II valves have a tendency to
"tulip" or stretch under hard, hot driving conditions
thus reducing the rocker arm clearance. With readjustment,
however, mine seemed to work satisfactorily
so we set off for the 760-mile trip from the
border to the Mexican capital.
The Pan American Highway has 114 miles of the
twistiest, steepest mountain road of any paved Mexican
highway (a new road has just been opened from Monterey
to Mexico City which by-passes the mountains).
What an opportunity for the mighty Rolls to show its
stuff. From a point only 300 feet above sea level, we
climbed to 6500 feet altitude in one 25-mile stretch.
Of course, with the trailer on behind, the Rolls could
not make this ascent in high gear—even in third speed
it would reach the boiling point and we would have to
drop to second to obtain enough rpm for water circulation.
(Drivers of American cars pulling trailers in
hot mountainous country employ an evaporative cooling
system in which water in a separate tank is sprayed
slowly over the front of the radiator to obtain sufficient
cooling.) But the Rolls handled the load masterfully.
The great weight of the car prevented the swaying and
jerking which characterizes a heavy trailer haul with
the conventional car. Unfortunately, the engine again
developed a miss near the end of the ascent and I knew

As everywhere, Mexican boys admire P-II plumbing.
that the exhaust valve which had been holding open had
been burned and would need regrinding. As we gained
altitude, the carburetor mixture lever was moved
toward the lean position and at 8000 feet, the best combustion
was obtained with the lever to the extreme left.
Paked in a beautiful trailer camp in Mexico City,
it as not an onerous chore to regrind valves and be
ready for many adverturesome side trips without the
trailer. (Incidentally, in Mexico City trailer parking
is $1.25 a day which includes all utilities, food in the
native market is about one quarter of the cost at home,
and low test gas for the Rolls costs 16 cents a gallon.
And the sun shines every day.) No car could be more
ideally suited for rough going than the P-II. The high
clearance allowed us to explore roads off the beaten
path that only trucks might traverse. Without the
trailer, the P-II could master any climb without overheating
and the use of gears for long descents was a
Godsend which the owners of automatic transmission
cars could not fully experience.
Valve grinding compound (walled, that is!).
Headed home, we again crossed the Mexican border
at Laredo and filled up with low test American gasoline.
It was a hot day in April and we had not gone 10 miles
before the Rolls came to a stop with a violent case of
vapor lock. The Mexican gas which has much less
volatility than its American counterpart had never
caused vapor lock under the most torrid operating
conditions. What to do? Suddenly I recalled the benefits
of evaporative cooling in low humidity climates. I took
a pan of water from the trailer, stuck one end of a bath
towel in the water and wrapped the remainder of the
towel around the end of the vacuum tank that protrudes
through the firewall into the driver's compartment.
The evaporative cooling produced by the water soaked
towel cured my vapor lock and we continued on our way.
No story of taking a trailer to Mexico behind a P-II
can be completely meaningful without some reference
to the experiences of other less fortunate motorists
•who pulled their trailers with conventional passenger
cars. Those who employed Chevy, Dodge, GMC, or
P-II resident in Mexican trailer camp.
International 1/2 or 3/4-tontrucks made out reasonably
well but those driving late model passenger cars were
in a pitiful state. Hydramatic transmission bands
burned out on the long mountain grades; hydraulic
automatic transmissions broke their seals and lost
their oil from overheating; 10 to 1 compression ratio
engines knocked themselves to pieces on heavy climbs
using low octane gas. Rear axles and rear wheel bearings
broke from the extra load of the trailers and all
late model cars left mufflers and other under-chassis
parts along the highways where they could not clear
obstructions.
Sturdy trailer hitch mounting.
Only serious shortcoming of GN151 was insufficient
power at high altitude. This engine has only a 4.75 to
1 compression ratio and it becomes very sluggish and
lazy at altitudes over 5000 feet with a heavy trailer
load. I would like to take the same trip with one of the
last model P-II's which had a higher compression ratio
and other refinements. As a matter of fact, to pull a
heavy trailer properly in mountainous regions, an
engine with upward of 200 hp is needed. The new
American cars turn out the horsepower when the engines
buzz at 3000 rpm but the carriage is quite hopeless
for trailer work. The Rolls has everything but a
few horses--maybe a little supercharging and higher
compression will still make these 27-year-old marvels
superior to anything offered today.
Mexican version of a hot doggery.
293

PHANTOM II PILOT JET STICKING
Difficult starting is sometimes caused by the starting
carburetter piston sticking, particularly if the car
hasn't been used for a few days. The piston moves part
of the way, so the carburetter makes the proper hissing
noise, but not far enough to admit sufficient fuel. Cure:
If dressed in overalls, remove starting carburetter
and clean out. If dressed in a suit, push a small screwdriver
through one of the holes in the starting carburetter
and push the piston down, then remove screwdriver
and start engine. W. R. Matthews, England
CHROME PLATING
All U.S. built cars starting with S151FR had chrome
plated trim. Some earlier ones which were returned
to the factory for reconditioning, were also chrome
trimmed. Probably all the P-I's 'up dated' with Hall
(bowl shaped) headlamps were so treated. Some Ghosts
may have been refinished in chrome. It therefore seems
authentic to use chrome on some of these cars, at least
the factory would have done so.
Chroming has its problems. The worst is finding a
really good plater. Steel, even brass, should first be
copper, then nickel plated for best chrome plating.
While later P-I's had a removable radiator shell,
earlier cars had none. Therefore the radiator has to
be disassembled for plating, at about $100 - $150.
While we have not heard of it being done, it might be
possible to mask the front and rear of the radiator core
with asphalt, then plate, then dissolve the asphalt.
In plating a radiator shell, idiots will hang it on a
plater's hook--result, a 'burned' pitted area, very
obvious. Be very emphatic about avoiding this.
Another problem is how to remove a hood--er,
bonnet--hinge, plate, and replace it in a workmanlike
manner. Has anyone done this?
Consider carefully before plating wheels. They
must be completely disassembled (spokes may be
294
20 H.P. 1928 GFN39 Hooper drophead with Dr. Eric
Budden, former owner and Capt. C. K. Wildman, in England.
This chassis type is reputed quietest ever made.
GHOST THROTTLE AIR LEAK--MORE (see p. 289)
It is possible to materially reduce, or even completely
prevent over-run backfiring by richening the
slow-running jet slightly, and driving the car with the
governor lever well up, so that the engine idles at
5-600 RPM. It can, of course, be shut down when car
is stationary. This cuts down the inlet manifold vacuum,
and the engine therefore draws a mixture of proper
strength which it can fire, instead of an excessively
weak mixture. This is, of course, only a palliative; the
boring and new piston as previously recommended is
the only real cure. It is also essential for avoidance
of this trouble that both ignitions are correctly adjusted
and 100% efficient, and that there are no leaks
in the exhaust. In this connection, cut-outs can sometimes
be troublesome; many British Ghosts have had
the cut-out sealed off by R-R, for example, Bob Ley's
33CE, once mine. W. R. Matthews, England
rusted into nipples) and prepared. Unless the plater
has special electrodes, plating will not "throw" into
hollow areas on the rim.
Preparing any part for plating means disassembly,
and making the part almost as smooth as you expect
the plating to be. Nicks and corrosion pits will be still
there. Use a file, emery paper, etc. Don't send in
rusty nuts or bolts, it is a waste of time. The plater's
solutions will clean off the rust but not replace it with
chrome nor make the surface smooth.
Good nuts and bolts, with snug-fitting threads will
be too tight when plated. The plating does add thickness.
Either chase the threads beforehand to allow for the
extra metal, or chase them after plating so they will
fit. This requires taps and dies for Whitworth threads.
Plating the lady mascot is quite a ticklish job. A
ham-fisted buffer may easily buff the features right off.
A plater familiar with silver tableware may do better.
Unless the plater positions a special electrode down
between the wings, no chrome goes there. Mr. Don
Clairmonte, creator of excellent mascot replicas (p.64),
recommends as a plater of mascots the Clermont Electroplating
Works, 480 Clermont Ave., Brooklyn, N. Y.
Before committing any work to a plater, get some
references to his work. The best references will be
from another R-R owner who has had similar parts
done. When you take parts to a plater, give him a detailed
list and keep a duplicate. Good luck! J. W. McF.
Space left over, dammit.
CAN ANYONE MAKE THESE?
This is the soft rubber bushing
for the bumper supports on
late U.S. Ghost and early P-I.
Most owners of these cars
need four each. Editor has an
unused sample.
Mascots from Frederic C. Palmer

R R BRAKES - U.S. HUBS
by A.W. Soutter
The instructions for removing hubs and drums by
V. C. Allen, p. 246-7-8 apply to Springfield built R.H.
drive Silver Ghosts which are fitted with Dunlop wheels.
These are all chassis of the CE, NE, AG, LG, MG, JG,
UG, and SG series, and chassis 4TG thru 36TG. All
other Springfield built Silver Ghosts and P-I's were
fitted with American wire wheels and hub caps having
integral locking plates as shown in the attached sketch
of the rear hub and drum.
Comparison of this sketch with Fig. 4, p. 247, will
reveal that the essential difference between British
and American cars, which influences removal of the
hub, is that removal of the American hub cap directly
exposes the inner oil retaining cap, whereas the removal
of an additional locking ring and sliding barrel
is required on the British car. Sequence of removal
of components is as follows:
1. Hub cap, using wheel wrench supplied in kit.
2. Spring locking ring which secures inner oil retaining
cap to inner hub, using screwdriver.
3. Inner oil retaining cap, using socket wrench
supplied in kit. (No. F6955 on p. 174, 1½" socket will
fit.) (R.H. thread on L.H. wheel, L.H. thread on R.H.
wheel.)
4. Cotter pin and castellated nut on rear axle shaft,
using socket wrench supplied in kit. (Same wrench.)
(R.H. thread on L.H. wheel, L.H. thread on R.H. wheel.)
or cotter pin and castellated nut on front axle pivot,
using socket wrench supplied in kit. (F6955) (R.H.
thread on R.H. wheel, L.H. thread on L.H. wheel.)
5. Front hub and drum including bearings will now
slide off axle pivot.
Rear hub requires further operations as follows:
6. Rear axle driving dog, using any available bolt
screwed loosely into tapped hole for withdrawing tool.
7. Rear axle tube locking plate, using 2BA socket
wrench to remove three hex nuts.
8. Rear axle tube locking nuts, using special pin
spanner supplied in tool kit. (G2899 on p. 174.) (R.H.
thread on R.H. wheel, L.H. thread on L.H. wheel.)
9. The rear hub and drums, including bearings will
now slide off axle tube, use babbit hammer on inner
face of brake drum.
If Fig. 2, p. 246 were revised to show the hub cap
and inner oil retaining cap pictured in the rear hub
sketch above, the result would be a very close repre-
Mr. and Mrs. Wm. R. O'Connor of Conn, with their
P-I Ascot tourer S-178FR restored by H. C. Wire-
295
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
sentation of the front hub and drum assumbly fitted to
all American P-I's. There is one further difference,
however, and this is of the utmost importance in selecting
replacement hub caps. All Americanfront brake
axles, whether originally fitted to P-I's or to Silver
Ghost front brake conversion jobs, have hub caps with
locking plates which engage slots on the ends of the
inner hubs as shown in Fig. 2. These may be identified
by the overall length of 2.800 and the shoulder length
of 3/8".
The earlier type of hub caps, as shown in Fig. 1,
have locking plates which engage internal serrations
in the inner hubs. These may be identified by the overall
length of 2 1/2" and shoulder length of 1/8".
The important consideration is that while it is not
possible to fit the earlier type hub cap to the later type
hub, it is possible to fit the later type hub cap to the
earlier type hub in such a manner as to thoroughly
tighten the wheel and, yet, not lock it.
Persons willing to shed wheels may disregard this
warning.
The later type hub cap was used on the rear hubs
of all American P-I's of the RP, FP, KP, FR, KR, LR,
MR, and PR series, 288RM, 301 thru 303FM, 310FM,
311FM, 313FM, 314FM, 316FM, and 318 thru 399FM.
Unique right drive Springfield P-I converted from
LHD for movie. Note '34 Pontiac louvres. (D. Wynne)

296
COOLING SYSTEM TROUBLES - PART III
Acid Cleaning of Cylinder Blocks and Heads
bv V.C. Allen
The acid cleaning solution is commercial hydrochloric
acid (32%) used without dilution. It is available
from chemical supply houses.
Hydrochloric acid can be very dangerous for inexperienced
handlers. It can burn the skin, is very corrosive
and is a deadly poison. Use rubber gloves.
This treatment assumes the block or head is removed
from the car. Leaks, especially in water tubes,
may result as the removed scale may be sealing holes.
Retubing will be described later.
Important Note: The following instructions are
applicable in general to all pre-war Rolls-Royce cars,
i.e., Silver Ghost, 20 H.P., 20/25 H.P., 25/30 H.P.,
25/30 H.P. "Wraith," Bentley as noted, British and
U.S. Phantom I (with cast iron cylinder head), but do
not apply to aluminium cylinder blocks or heads.
PHANTOM I. An aluminium head was introduced
commencing at British chassis No. 1-CL and onwards,
i.e., at F2B series to end of H2 series. The cylinder
blocks being of cast iron can be treated with acid but
not the cylinder head. U.S. series FR, KR, LR, MR,
and PR have aluminium heads.
PHANTOM II. All Phantom II cylinder heads are of
aluminium. The cylinder blocks are of cast iron and
can therefore be treated with acid.
WATER JACKET COVERS (ALL CARS). In all cases
the water jacket covers, whether they are of cast iron
or aluminium, must be removed from the side of the
cylinder block prior to pouring in the acid through the
water jacket apertures.
It will be observed from the above that acid must
not be used to clean the interior of an aluminium cylinder
head (or a strong alkaline solution such as soda)
because this would be dangerous to the operator and
would cause extensive damage to the cylinder head.
INTERNAL CLEANING OF P-I, P-II, AND P-III.
With the cylinder heads removed from the engine, remove
the front and rear end covers and direct a jet
of air under high pressure alternatively through the
front and rear end cover apertures to loosen as far as
possible the corrosion product. Next, direct a jet of
cold water into the cylinder head in a similar manner
to thoroughly flush it out.
Refit the front and rear end covers.
INTERNAL CLEANING OF A PHANTOM III BLOCK
If a P-III engine is due for a complete overhaul and
where a rebore is necessary, we (The London Repair
Depot) remove the wet cylinder liners and the water
and oil sealing rings and hand scrape all the walls of
the block to remove the corrosion product. A jet of air
under high pressure is then directed around the walls
after which the block is thoroughly flushed out with
cold water under pressure before the liners and new
oil and water sealing rings are fitted. It should be noted
that this work should only be undertaken by a main
Rolls-Royce Repair Depot having the special tools for
removing and refitting the liners, etc.
It is not possible to remove the corrosion product
from a Phantom III cylinder block in any other way.
The following is the only effective way of removing
all scale accumulation especially when a car has been
in service a number of years and covered a large mileage
and where the scale has solidified. Scaling-upwill,
of course, cause overheating of the cooling system and
severe localised overheating of the cylinder head.
A. IRON CYLINDER HEAD
I. To Remove Scale:
(i) Remove the valves and valve springs.
(ii) Remove from the side of the head the two gland
nuts together with the rubber packing glands and the
gland seatings and seal off the two water passage holes
by tapping in two suitably shaped (taper) wooden plugs.
Also seal off with a plug the orifice of the thermometer
union.
(iii) Remove the front end cover, turn it upside down
and refit complete with joint washer.
Note: On Bentley M series chassis (B-2-MR to B-
203-MX) a combined front end cover and thermostat
casing is fitted in which case it should be removed and
the aperture in the head blanked off by means of a suitable
plate and joint washer.
(iv) Coat the whole of the head with a thick layer of
heavy grease to prevent acid contact.
(v) Place the cylinder head on a level plane in a tank
or container with the gasket joint face uppermost and
Bentley 1948 Mk VI sedan by James Young and 1920 Silver Ghost 106FW Pall Mall tourer owned by C. S. Hoyt, Mass.

297
pour slowly (to prevent frothing as far as possible) the
acid through the orifice of the front end cover; (if an
M series Bentley chassis see note below) continue to
pour until it is seen, upon looking at the water passage
holes, that the acid has risen almost to the level
of the gasket joint face. The action of the acid will of
course cause a certain amount of frothing and when
this has subsided top up as necessary with acid to restore
the level. Leave the head in this condition for
not less than 16 hours but after it has been standing
from 3 to 4 hours check the level of the acid and top
up if necessary.
Note: If an M series Bentley chassis pour in the
acid very slowly (with the aid of a small funnel) through
either the front or rear dowel locating hole on the
gasket joint face of the head. These dowel holes have
a diameter of .4375" and are situated near the front
and rear end of the joint face.
(vi) Next, turn the head on its side and allow the
acid and residue to drain off. Restore the head to the
previous level position. Remove the wooden plugs.
(vii) Pour through the orifice of the front end cover
(or through one of the two dowel pin holes) a strong
solution of hot water and caustic soda (1/2 lb. soda to
2 gallons of water) to neutralise remaining traces of
acid. Repeat this operation until the solution has a
clear colour. Next, allow a stream of cold tap water
to pass through the head in a similar manner for a
few minutes.
(viii) Refit the three wooden plugs and with a hose
again allow water to pass through the head and if the
acid has fully disintegrated the scale a good flow of
water should escape past all the water passage holes.
II. Water (Air) Testing of Head:
(i) Remove the front end cover (or blanking plate)
and apply a thin coating of jointing compound to the
joint face of the cover and the corresponding face of
the head and using a new joint washer refit the cover
in its normal position.
(ii) Remove the rear end cover and fit a new joint
washer in a similar manner. After removal of the
cover a visual inspection can be made to assess the
inner cleanliness of the head.
(iii) Plug up with suitable shaped (taper) wooden
plugs all the water passage holes on the gasket joint
face and also seal off the outlet of the front end cover
with a piece of hose, wooden plug and hose clamps.
(iv) Make a suitable threaded air connection adaptor
for screwing on to the thermometer union on the cylinder
head. There are two different types of thermometer
unions having threads as below (for Bentley and
small Rolls):
a. .375" GAS x 19 T.P.I. (R.H.). The external dia.
of the thread is .648".
b. .875" dia. x 20 T.P.I. (R.H.).
Connect an air pressure line to the adaptor and lower
and submerge the cylinder head in a tank of water
having a temperature of 80°-85°C. Apply an air pressure
of 12 lbs sq/ins and note if there are any air
leakages and cure as necessary.
(v) Remove the wooden plugs and the grease.
(vi) Fit a new rubber packing gland (Part No. EB.654)
to each of the two gland nuts.
Controls of 20H.P. shown on masthead. Instrument
at left measures gradient.
B. IRON CYLINDER BLOCK
I. To Remove Scale:
(i) Remove all water jacket covers from the side of
the block.
(ii) Plug up with suitably shaped (taper) wooden
plugs all water passage holes at the top of the block.
(iii) To prevent the acid from accidentally contacting
any of the machined surfaces of the block such
as the cylinder bores and the gasket joint face and so
causing "acid etch" they should all be painted with a
double coat of "temporary rust preventative" (such
as is used on machined parts prior to storage or dispatch)
and when dry and as a further protection a thick
coat of heavy grease should be applied.
(iv) Lay the block level on its side with the water
jacket apertures facing upwards. Slowly (to prevent
frothing), pour about an equal amount of acid through
each of the jacket apertures (to equally distribute it)
until the level of the acid just covers the cylinder walls.
Leave the block in this condition for not less than 16
hours but after it has been standing from 3 to 4 hours
check the level of the acid and top up if necessary to
restore the level.
(v) After the block has stood for 16 hours remove
the lower row of wooden plugs and allow the acid and
residue to run out into a container.
(vi) Pour through the water jacket apertures a
strong solution of hot water and caustic soda (1/2 lb
soda to 2 gal. of water) to neutralise remaining traces
of acid. Repeat this operation until the solution has a
clear colour. Remove remaining wooden plugs. Next,
allow a stream of cold tap water to pass through the
block in a similar manner for a few minutes.
(vii) With a hose again allow water to pass through
the block and if the acid has fully disintegrated the silt
a good flow of water should escape past all the water
passage holes.
(viii) Apply a thin coating of jointing compound to
the faces of the water jacket covers and the corresponding
faces of the block and using new joint washers
refit the covers.
II. Water (Air) Testing of Block:
(i) Refit the wooden plugs.
(ii) Make a suitable air connection adaptor for fitting
to the orifice of the water pump elbow on the block and
connect an air pressure line to it and lower and submerge
the block in a tank of water having a temperature
of 80°-85° C. Apply an air pressure of 12 lbs
sq/ins and note if there are any air leakages and cure
as necessary.
(iii) Remove the wooden plugs.

298
PHANTOM III, 3 BT 151, Hooper Sedanca DeVille. Genuine 6,700 miles, mint inside and out, chauffeurmaintained.
Sanderson and Holmes Limited (Leicester), Bentley House, London Road, Leicester, England.
ROLLS-ROYCE BAZAAR
RR's and Bentleys from England. Reputable English
source known to RROC will look for specific models
and body types at English prices. All models 1919 to
1957. No pre-1919 cars. Inquiries to R. H. Goldberg,
16 Clare Terrace, Crestwood, Tuckahoe 7, N.Y.
ROLLS-ROYCE Silver Ghost - 1911. Engine like new
after complete overhaul. Have limousine and touring
car bodies. Completely intact, wooden wheels. Only
need paint job. Will accept investment of $4000. Dr.
S. L. Scher, 1100 Park Avenue, New York, N.Y.
SILVER GHOST 1926 Drophead Coupe. Authentic restoration
partially completed. Running condition. Good
investment at $925.00. William D. Small, 3458 Shenandoah
Ave., St. Louis, Mo. PR1-4449.
PHANTOM II Continental 29TA, 1934 Thrupp & Maberly
sports saloon. Pictures on pages 111 and 177. $3500.
L. Ross Sine, 12111 Nandell Lane, Los Altos, Calif.
PHANTOM I (Br.) 70LF Limousine. Mechanically very
good, body very good, paint fair to good. Original
mascot, instruments, wheel discs, roof ventilator,
occasional seats. $750 f.o.b. England, but will deliver
in N.Y. State. Barrie Gillings, Edgehill, London Rd.,
Harrow on the Hill, Middlesex, England.
BENTLEY, Mk VI Std. steel saloon. Engine overhauled,
new brakes, new paint, new leather in front seat. $3950.
W.A.Anderson, Jr., 9891 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly
Hills, Cal.
PHANTOM III Town Car; unique Inskip body, maroon
lacquer; interior mint; engine completely rebuilt, all
bills available. Owner's handbook, RR maintenance
data, some tools and spares with the car. Photo, details,
to interested purchasers. Price firm $1950.00.
Lt. Col. John Macken, 25 Davis Ave., Warwick, Va.
PHANTOM III, 3DL116, convertible with automatic top
by Hooper. 2-door, 5-passenger, completely redone
from bumper to bumper. I have $5000 invested. Price
$5000. SILVER DAWN, 1954 Park Ward convertible.
2-door, 5-passenger. 8000 miles, white with red leather
like new. Automatic gear box and top. Cost $18,000.
Price $9000. Dr. S. L. Scher, 1100 Park Ave., N.Y., N.Y.
PHANTOM I (Br.) 1929 7-seater Barker limousine.
First-class mechanical condition, running daily, good
tires. Full specification and photos available. Accept
$1,950, includes delivery any part of U.S.A. D. A.
Russell, 321 South Sunset Place, Monrovia, California.
WANTED
INFORMATION. Am fully aware of availability of new
Dunlops, but wish to know where I can have my 7.00 x
21 tires recapped in my vicinity. Henwar Rodakiewicz,
400 East 50th St., New York 22, N.Y.
P-II Convertible coupe, in good condition. Harold H.
Walther, RR 1, Cedar Falls, Iowa.
P-II Croydon convertible or other Rolls with similar
coachwork. Good condition. Royce J. Noble, 21 Woodland
Road, Maiden 48, Massachusetts.
SILVER GHOST, 4-speed gear box, open coachwork.
All pictures will be returned. Wm. Schreiber, 12857
Maple Ave., Blue Island, III.
BENTLEY Standard Steel Saloon, '47 to '51. Prefer
low-mileage, sunshine-roof model. Description, price,
and photo to William D. Small, 3458 Shenandoah Ave.,
St. Louis, Mo.
PARTS AND SERVICE
INFORMATION as to source of English maker of spring
gaiters. Inquire Wm. Schreiber, 12857 Maple Ave.,
Blue Island, III. who is satisfied customer.
FOUR tires 650-19; in excellent condition, heavy tread.
$100.00 shipped prepaid east of Miss. Clinton D. Keagy
P. O. Box 115, New Castle, Pa.
750x16 - $42.00
700x17 - $47.00
750x17 - $52.00
NEW WHITEWALL TIRES
700x18 - $56.00
700x20 - $49.00
650x19 - $49.00
550x17 - $23.50
550x18 - $21.50
475x19 - $24.35
450x21 - $24.15
Send check or money order to Obsolete Tire Co., 159
Truman Street, New Haven, Conn.
FOREIGN CAR CENTER
SALES * NEW CAR * SERVICE
Restorers of the 1954 "Rolls-Royce Trophy" Car
P. H. Shavney, Jr., Pres.
Germantown Pike at Route 202, Norristown, Pa.
Cable Address "ROLLS"
LARGE ASSORTMENT of R-R parts for most models.
S. Adelman, 635 Columbus Ave., Mt. Vernon, N.Y.
Messrs Schaler and Waters
Official Rolls-Royce Representatives
26 West 27th Street
Indianapolis Indiana
Exclusively Rolls-Royce and Bentley