THE FLYING LADY - Rolls-Royce Owners' Club

307
THE FLYING LADY
SPOOK
No. 57-6
DECEMBER, 1957
JOHN W. MCFARLANE, Editor
Huntington Hills, Wisner Road, Rochester 9, New York, U.S.A.
JOHN R. UTZ, Associate Editor
140 Avon Road. Rochester 10, New York, U.S.A.
Neale's 1910 #1392, winner of Jubilee driving tests.
THE PERIODICAL OF THE ROLLS-ROYCE OWNERS' CLUB, INC.
We are glad to report that this gay newsletter,
started by the late Bob Godley, is being continued by
his talented wife, Shirley. She tells us that some addresses
may be lost. If you didn't receive her Nov.
1957 issue, write her at 59 Laurel Drive, Massapequa
Park, Long Island, N.Y. Those interested in club affairs
are invited to request this free newsletter from her.
We are sorry indeed to report the death of Mr. A. E.
Hillman, known by many of us at Cobleskill.
N.Y. Regional Picnic, Pond Ridge Park, Sept. 14, 1957
Members and their cars:
Donald R. Grunauer 20/25 Windover Sedan
Harry Hewitt P-II Limo 210AMS
Andrew Wilson and wife P-III Limo 4 1/4 Bentley
Joe Fennelly and family P-I Brewster Dover Limo
Ken Redford and wife P-II Shooting Brake
M. Y. Mann and family P-II Hard Top Tourer
Andrew Nanzo and wife 1924 Silver Ghost
Henry Metcalfe and wife P-III Limo
Harry O'Conner 20 HP Open Tourer
Bob Hilpert and family Bentley Mk VI
Dan Streeter Silver Wraith
Stanley Sharp and wife Silver Dawn
Ozzie Lyons and family P-II Brewster Huntington
Dick Goldberg and family Bentley 3 1/2 Pard Ward
Shirley Godley P-II Brewster Newport
Also present: Donald Clairmonte and wife, Fred Kelly
and family, Bob Wilbur and wife, Barrie Thorne and
wife, and George Steinmeyer.
Guests and their cars:
L. Potter and wife 25/30 Drophead Coupe
Comdr. Edward Whitehead Silver Dawn
Bernard Winzig and wife P-I
Part of picnic line-up. Photo by Barbara Thorne.
YOUR MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES NOW
As a 1957 member, you should have received the
Flying Lady 57-1 through 57-6, the 1957 Directory,
and a few other goodies. Use the enclosed renewal form
NOW, to get into our 1958 Directory. If you don't renew
promptly, it takes a while to get you back on the list.
ANNUAL BUSINESS MEETING
The usual open board meeting will be held at 10 a.m.
Saturday, Feb. 8, at the Franklin Institute, Philadelphia.
(AACA Meeting same place that afternoon.) Items for
discussion are meets, installation of officers, publications
and stuff. Come one, come all!
BALLOT FOR RROC ELECTION
Enclosed is a ballot form for the 1957 officers.
Please fill it out and return it to the address given.
(Don't be tight, use your own envelope and stamp!)
VINTAGE SPORTS-CAR CLUB OF ENGLAND
R.R.O.C. members will be interested to hear that
overseas memberships are available in the Vintage
Sports-Car Club of England. Of particular interest to
our members is their lately formed Rolls-Royce section,
with its own publication "Early and Late" of which
a copy is enclosed with this issue. Those who join the
Vintage Sports-Car Club receive its quarterly publication
and the Rolls-Royce section members also
receive "Early and Late," 3 or 4 copies per year.
The editor of "Early and Late" is Mr. S. J. Skinner
who owns the magnificent 1910 Rolls-Royce shown on
page 291 of the Flying Lady. Mr. Skinner tells us there
will be information relating to Rolls-Royce cars pre-
1940 with a bias toward Edwardian and vintage types,
and other interesting articles in "Early and Late."
The V.S.C.C. has quite an interesting program of
events in England which any of our members traveling
there will find well worth while.
The annual cost of the overseas membership is
$3.25 which includes club and section. There is no
initiation fee. Checks should be made out to the Vintage
Sports-Car Club. The check and a request to join the
club should be sent to T. Carson, Brook Cottage,
Bishops Green, Newbury, Berks., England.
© 1957, The Rolls-Royce Owners' Club, Inc.
Lithographed in the United States of America

308
Line-up at R-R playing field, Derby. First cars are: 1907 #551 owned
by R-R Ltd., 1912 #1905E owned by Major W. T. Pitt, 1922 #82AG owned
by Lord Montague of Beaulieu, 1919 armored car, 1914 #23YB owned by
Dr. A. R. H. Williamson.
Under the auspices of the 20-Ghost Club the Rolls-
Royce 'Silver Ghost' Jubilee Rally was held from
Thursday - Saturday, 12th - 14th September, in the
Derby, Buxton and Crewe area. Most generously supported
by past and present officials of Rolls-Royce
Ltd., the three-day event kept on schedule in all respects
save that of the weather.
Frank B. Hand, Jr. reports some details on his Pall
Mall tourer 305RK Photo by Jack Frost
The first afternoon saw the assembly at the Derby
Sports Ground of Rolls-Royce Ltd., the twenty-two
entrants comprising 'Silver Ghosts' manufactured between
1907 and 1925, two of them from America.
Judges Messervy, Grylls, Kelly and Blatchely check
R-R's original Silver Ghost. Photo by Jack Frost
On the second day, Friday, all the cars took part
in a Concours d'Elegance. Because of rain this event
was staged in the large hall of the Pavilion Gardens.
Past and present officials from Rolls-Royce Ltd.,
Messrs. A. F. Kelly, S. H. Grylls, R. F. Messervy
and John Blatchely, judged the winner to be Webster
Woodmansee from the U.S.A. for his immaculate 1922
Brewster-bodied tourer. He was awarded the First
Prize, generously donated by the Company, of a pair
of book ends in solid bronze, being the last of the
original 'Silver Lady' Mascots cast from the actual
sculptor's moulds. Second Prize, also donated by the
Company, in the form of a solid silver ash-tray carrying
the 'Silver Lady' Mascot was awarded to another
very elegantly styled 1921 grey tourer with Barker
body entered by Lord Bruce, from Dunfermline, Fifeshire.
The judges admitted that on account of the magnificent
turn-out of all the cars entered, marking was
exceptionally difficult, and final placings very close
indeed. There was a tie for third place between Frank
Hand, Jr., of Washington for his Brewster-bodied 1925
Tourer and a 1910 Limousine by Fuller of Bath owned
jointly by M. R. and D. W. Neale., from Worcestershire.
For this prize Rolls-Royce Ltd., kindly donated
sets of Crown Derby China. J. Anderson, 20-Ghost Club
We wish to thank the 20-Ghost Club and Rolls-Royce
Ltd. for their hospitality to the RROC members, Jack
Frost, Frank Hand, Webster Woodmansee, J. W. McF.
and their wives. Everyone was most kind to us.
Webster Woodmansee
received the trophy for
first prize, a pair of
bronze book ends, from
Mrs. Kelly. R. R. Ltd.

Silver Ghost Jubilee re-enacts a famous picture (see p. 106). The original Silver Ghost #551, Garrett's #588,
Smith's #577, and Barclay's #1278. R R Ltd
Barclay's #1278 tourer rebuilt by Barclay with Mr. H. Fergusson Wood, and W. F. Watson's 1911 #1543
limousine by J. Lawton. Photo by R. R. Ltd.
At Crewe factory: A. M. Garrett's 1907 #588 tourer by Gladiator, J. P. Smith's 1907 #577 shooting brake
by Mandsley, and R-R's 1907 #551 tourer by Barker with James Radley at the wheel. Photo by R. R. Ltd
309

RETUBING BENTLEY CYLINDER BLOCKS
by V. C Allen
NOTE: When removing old water tubes and fitting new ones care must
be taken not to damage the upper and lower faces of the cylinder head
and cylinder block.
The. 575" dia., shoulder of the dolly, Fig. 2, will allow the water tubes
of the cylinder head to be inserted .052" beneath the gasket joint face.
The.432" dia., shoulder of the dolly, Fig. 4, will allow the water tubes
of the cylinder block to be inserted .030" beneath the gasket joint face.
1. TO REMOVE THE EIGHT COPPER WATER TUBES FROM THE
CYLINDER HEAD
(i) Position the cylinder head so that the rocker shaft studs face upwards
and with the drift, Fig. 1, drive out the tubes in a downwards
direction. Should a tube collapse while removing it proceed as below:
(a) Saw off protruding part of tube.
(b) With the drift drive remaining part of tube into the water jacket.
(c) Remove nearest large core plug from upper end of cylinder
head and with a suitable pair of tweezers remove remaining portion
of the tube.
(ii) Thoroughly clean all upper and lower tube holes in head; this is
ESSENTIAL to ensure a perfect water seal when fitting the new tubes.
MATERIAL:MILD STEEL.
DRIFT FOR REMOVING WATER TUBES IN CYLINDER HEAD.
FIG. BENTLEY 3½ & 4¼ LITRE.
2. TO FIT NEW WATER TUBES TO THE CYLINDER HEAD
(i) Invert the cylinder head so that the gasket joint face faces upwards
and insert the small diameter end of the tubes (EB-128) into the head as
far as they will go by hand ENSURING that the small diameter end of
each tube has entered its corresponding hole at opposite face of head
otherwise the tube/s will be damaged when finally driving them into
position.
(ii) With the dolly, Fig. 2, tap the tubes fully into position.
(iii) Turn over the cylinder head so that the rocker shaft studs face
upwards and expand by hand the ends of the tubes with the expanding tool,
Fig. 5, by rotating it until it is felt that each tube is fully expanded against
its tapered hole in the head; noting that undue pressure on the expanding
tool is not necessary. A tap wrench about 9" long will be required for
use with the expanding tool.
MATERIAL: MILD STEEL.
DOLLY FOR INSERTING WATER TUBES IN CYLINDER HEAD.
FIG. 2 BENTLEY 3½ & 4¼ LITRE.
A SMOOTH FINISH. MATERIAL MILD STEEL
EXPANDING TOOL-WATER TUBES-CYLINDER HEAD-BENTLEY 3½ & 4¼ LITRE
FIG 5.
310
(iv) With the gasket joint face facing upwards expand the opposite end
of the tubes as above.
(v) Test the head for water leakage as explained in SB/VA.l/PR
29-3-56 and remedy any leaking tubes by further expanding them. Apart
from the tubes also ascertain that there are no other leakages elsewhere
in the head.
Material required--8 EB.128 water tubes.
3. TO REMOVE THE COPPER TUBES FROM CYLINDER BLOCK
(i) Position the cylinder block so that the cylinder skirts face upwards
and with the drift; Fig. 3, drive out the tubes in a downwards direction.
Should a tube collapse while removing it proceed as below:
(a) Saw off protruding part of tube.
(b) With the drift drive remaining part of tube into the water jacket.
(c) Remove nearest water jacket cover from side of block and with
a pair of tweezers remove remaining portion of tube.
(ii) Thoroughly clean all upper and lower tube holes in block; this is
ESSENTIAL to ensure a perfect water seal when fitting the new tubes.
MATERIAL: MILD STEEL.
DRIFT FOR REMOVING WATER TUBES FROM CYLINDER BLOCK-
FIG.3 BENTLEY 3½ & 4¼ LITRE.
4. TO FIT NEW WATER TUBES TO THE CYLINDER BLOCK
(i) Position the cylinder block so that the cylinder skirts face downwards
and insert the small diameter end of the tubes (E.55418) into the
block as far as they will go by hand ENSURING that the small diameter
end of each tube has entered its corresponding hole at the opposite end
of the block otherwise the tube/s will be damaged when finally driving
them into position.
(ii) With the dolly, Fig. 4, tap the tubes fully into position.
(iii) Invert the cylinder block so that the cylinder skirts face upwards
and expand by hand the ends of the tubes with the expanding tool, Fig. 6,
rotating it until it is felt that each tube is fully expanded against its
tapered hole in the block; noting that undue pressure on the expanding
tool is not necessary.
(iv) With the cylinder skirts facing downwards expand the opposite
end of the tubes as above.
(v) If it is found that any of the tubes stand proud of the bottom face
of the block it is essential that the end of the tube/s should be carefully
reduced in length by filing until the face of the tube/s is flush with the
face of the block.
(vi) Test the block for water leakage as explained in SB/VA.2/PR
20-3-56 and remedy any leaking tubes by further expanding them. Apart
from tubes also ascertain that there are no other leakages elsewhere in
the block.
Material required--26 E.55418 water tubes. V. C. Allen
MATERIAUMILD STEEL.
DOLLY FOR INSERTING WATER TUBES IN CYLINDER BLOCK.
FIG.4 BENTLEY 3½ & 4¼ LITRE.
A SMOOTH FINISH. MATERIAL: MILD STEEL.
EXPANDING TOOL-WATER TUBES-CYLINDER BLOCK-BENTLEY 3½ & 4¼ LITRE.
FIG 6.

NOTES ON RETUBING, by R. H. Goldberg
This article applies to all prewar R-R and Bentley models with detachable
cylinder head. On these models, except P-III where blocks and
upper crankcase are one piece, long studs run from the upper crankcase
through head and blocks, anchoring them to the crankcase. We do not
have the data available as to whether, on all models, the studs go through
the cylinder head water jacket directly or whether, as on the prewar
Bentley, they go through cast iron. However, it is likely that all studs
Corroded tube from Bentley cylinder block.
through the blocks pass through the water jacket. If water were to be
allowed in contact with the stud, it would flow down into the oil. For this
reason, where a stud goes through the water jacket, it is made to go
through a copper tube, the "water tube. "The holes for these tubes at the
top and bottom faces of the blocks are tapered, and both ends of the tube
are flared into the tapered holes, sealing the ends. Water tubes are also
used for the pushrod holes in the head, both for a water seal and an oil
drain.
When head and blocks are off the engine for an overhaul, be sure to
check them separately for water tube leakage. The tubes are likely to
be eaten away gradually by electrolysis. Leakage can be tested with air
pressure and a water tank, as Mr. Allen suggests. Lacking this equipment,
the water holes can be plugged with corks and kerosene can be
poured in. Kerosene has a searching action which should show up even
Nose of expanding tool for fitting new water tubes.
PROPER STORAGE OF SILVER GHOST ENGINES
The cause of sticking valves is due to bad maintenance
when the car is laid up. These long valve
stems are very prone to sticking when idle due to
corrosion caused by damp atmosphere, and it is essential
to remove the valve caps in order to spray
upper cylinder lubricant under each valve face when
the valves are in the open position. The lubricant will
then penetrate down the stems and prevent sticking.
However, it is also necessary to spray oil on to the
bottom of each valve stem through the top coils of the
valve spring when each valve is closed.
To preserve the cylinders and pistons, about an
eggcupful of upper cylinder lubricant should be injected
into each cylinder by means of a force feed oilcan with
about 10 inches of rubber tubing on the end of the spout.
If this is done after the valves are sprayed with oil,
it will be found that the rubber tubing will slip easily
over the top of the valve (when closed) and into the
cylinder bore.
On the later model engines it is, of course, easy to
inject oil direct into the cylinder through the sparking
plug orifice situated over the centre of each cylinder.
The engine should be turned over by hand every
fortnight, and care taken to see that it does not stop in
the same position of the crankshaft.
The lubrication as recommended above should be
repeated every three months.
If these instructions are carried out there will never
311
tiny leaks. If a leak is found at the end of a tube, it may be possible to
stop this by machining an expander and re-expanding the end of the tube.
If the leak is elsewhere in the tube, it must be replaced. Note that hydrochloric
acid cleaning may uncover leaks previously sealed by scale.
As for special tools, Mr. Allen gives dimensions only for the prewar
Bentley. He was unable to give us dimensions of water tube tools in time
for publication. Also, water tubes are unavailable from R-R, Ltd. From
the dimensions given for Bentley tools, and RHG's experience with retubing
B-77-FC, here are some pointers on tools for other models:
1. Drifts for removing tubes (Figs. 1 and 3):
a. Small diameter should allow drift to enter tube.
b. Large diameter should allow drift to clear smallest (inner)
diameter of tapered hole in face of block or head. This tapered hole
must not be damaged.
c. For cylinder head tool, length of large diameter greater than
length of tube.
d. For block tool, length of large diameter greater than combined
length of water tube and cylinder skirt projection below water jacket.
This reduces likelihood of damaging cylinder skirt while driving tube
out from bottom face of block.
2. Dollies for inserting tubes (Figs. 2 and 4):
a. Small diameter should just go into unexpanded tube. Length
does not appear critical.
b. Intermediate diameter should just go into tapered holes in block
or head. Length of this diameter must be calculated exactly so that
ends of tube are recessed into hole the same distance at each end.
c. Large diameter should be bigger than tapered hole. Diameter
and length of this diameter do not appear critical.
3. Expanding tools (Figs. 5 and 6):
a. Taper 1 in 20 on diameter is likely to apply to all models.
b. Smallest diameter should be capable of insertion 1/2 inch into
unexpanded tube.
c. Largest diameter should be bigger than largest diameter of
tapered hole.
d. Taper required a lathe for machining.
e. Division of circle and depth of cuts for the 3 flutes in the taper
may not be critical. RHG made the flutes in a milling machine, holding
the expander in a milling vise and, lacking an indexing attachment,
dividing the circle and judging depth of cuts by eye. A bench
grinder could possibly have been used.
f. The 062 radius on each ridge requires a special milling cutter.
Lacking this, RHG rounded the edges with a bench grinder, being
careful not to cut into the straight line of the taper at the top of the
ridge. The accuracy of this taper would appear to be critical.
be any further trouble with sticking valves or piston
rings. S. E. Sears (Forwarded by Bill Pollock)
COMPOUND FOR PROTECTING ENGINES, GEAR-
BOXES AND REAR AXLES OF CARS IN STORAGE
Esso informs us that they sell a compound, "Esso
Rust-Ban No. 623" for internal protection of gasoline
engines in storage. This would undoubtedly protect
gearbox and rear axle from internal corrosion due to
condensation.
To prepare an engine for storage, Esso recommends
draining, flushing, filling half full with Rust-Ban
No. 623, and running for 15-20 minutes. Then, if possible,
pour in via air intake (this presumes a downdraught
carburetor, as on late small RR and Phantom
IE) until engine chokes and stops running. Then pour
in a quantity through each sparkplug hole. (If not possible
to put into air intake, turn engine over with starter
once or twice after application through sparkplug holes.)
Then drain crankcase. Engine is now protected for a
long period of storage. (Esso says at least one year.)
To recommission car, simply fill crankcase with
oil and start engine. No treatment to remove Rust-
Ban No. 623 is necessary.
This material can be ordered from any local Esso
distributor, in minimum of 5-gallon container. It costs
about $1.35 per gallon in 5-gallon lots. In areas not
serviced by Esso, other major oil companies undoubtedly
make a similar compound. R. H. Goldberg

ADJUSTMENT OF P-II STARTER POINTS
The P-II starter has at the forward end a set of
contact points. When the armature has been activated
by the "teaser" circuit and has slid backward so that
the teeth on the rear end are fully engaged with the
flywheel, these points close and activate the main relay,
putting current in to turn the engine.
The adjustment of these points is extremely critical.
If they close too soon (gap too small), the starter motor
is energized before the armature teeth are fully engaged
with the flywheel. This will damage armature
teeth and/or flywheel teeth. If they close too late (gap
too large), the starter motor will not be energized at all.
If the starter now works properly, leave it alone!
The adjustment should not change with use.
However, if not right, best approach is to remove
starter. Hold starter with brush end up and see if
armature slides down freely to the end of its normal
travel. (If not, disassemble starter, clean up and look
for burrs which would impede sliding of armature.)
Adjust points so that they close just when armature
reaches end of travel. (RHG's P-II has a gap of .014"
when in this condition.) R. H. Goldberg
CHECK ON CRANK-CASE BREATHER OF P-I
The P-I has a small crank-case breather tube which
passes from the carbureter to the rear tappet-chamber
cover. If the cover be removed a hole is seen in the
crank-case wall (about 3/4" diameter) through which
the skirt of No. 5 cylinder sleeve is exposed. There is
supposed to be clearance between the sleeve and the
wall, so that crank-case gases can be sucked out. I
found this space plugged with sludge, and cleaned it
out with a bent wire. I also turned up a slightly tapered
sleeve and sweated it over the engine end of this tube,
subsequently working it down with abrasive paper to
be a tight fit in the hole in the tappet-chamber cover.
Thus external dust is not sucked in, and there is no oil
leak to make a smudge down the engine. John Stanley
P-I CHASSIS REWIRING
In rewiring S433MR, I used Auto-Lite Automotive
Cable which has only slightly thinner insulation and
gives the original appearance. All rewiring is 14 gauge,
except the output wire from the generator, which is
12 gauge, and the power supply from battery contact
to ammeter, which is 10 gauge. I used about 10 feet of
10 gauge, 15 feet of 12 gauge, and 160 feet of 14 gauge.
Don Asher. Canada
312
CLEANING NAUGAHYDE
Although U. S. Naugahyde is primarily an upholstery
material for use indoors, it will probably give very
satisfactory service on the exterior leather portions
of your automobile. Normally, a simple washing with
soap and water will remove ordinary dirt and grime
from the surface of elastic or regular Naugahyde.
Care should be taken to use a cloth wrung out fairly
well so excess water will not be permitted to penetrate
into the seams or into the upholstery filling. Scouring
powder may be used to remove stubborn dirt provided
that all traces of such strong soaps are removed by
careful rinsing. After such washing with soap and
water the surface can be polished by rubbing with a
dry cloth, or to obtain a brighter finish, Johnson's
Glo-coat may be used in accordance with the instructions
furnished. (U. S. Rubber Co. to Monroe Y. Mann)
CLEANING REALLY FILTHY BRASS
Re cleaning brass (p. 175). I found that one of the
quickest and best ways of cleaning really filthy external
brass and copper (manifolds, pipes, etc.) was
by rubbing them with a rag smeared with medium valve
grinding compound, afterwards polishing with metal
polish. Surprisingly, it doesn't scratch, and will remove
an astonishing amount of corrosion and filth in
a very short time. Of course, it mustn't be used on
anything delicate, or on anything plated. It's only suitable
for brass and copper, not aluminum—it scratches
this. W. R. Matthews, England
FLEXIBLE COUPLING REPLACEMENT FOR P-I
Original flexible couplings (between clutch and gearbox)
for Springfield P-I's are no longer available.
Fortunately, the equivalent British part is interchangeable,
and may be obtained from Rolls-Royce Ltd.,
Hythe Road, Scrubs Lane, Willesden, London N.W. 10.
My new coupling (RR part No. G-78848) cost L5.9.10
(about $15.38) and is marked "Genuine Hardy Disc
(318)."
If you suspect your old coupling, read page 100 and
follow instructions for checking run-out of the drive
shaft. Directions for replacing a coupling appear on
page 79. A worn coupling can cause the clutch shaft to
run out of true and may be a bad source of vibration.
A word of warning: the British replacement coupling
is a very tight fit. Rather than forcing the bolts through,
try turning them in with a wrench where possible. The
holes must not be enlarged, as tightness and solidity
in this joint are essential. D. D. Williams
Mr. and Mrs. Carroll C. Vail of St. Louis and their
1927 P-I Brewster Stratford coupe, on Glidden Tour.

1956 Silver Wraith Park Ward Touring Limousine LELW73 and 1956 Bentley "S" Standard Saloon B163LAP,
owned by Mr. and Mrs. John F. McDougall, Edmonton, Canada. He reports driving the Wraith 2060 miles in
three days with no fatigue, and another enjoyable trip of 3800 miles with family of six and luggage. Average
top speed is 91.5 m.p.h., and for Bentley is 105.5 m.p.h. The Wraith, 5500 lb., averages about 17 m.p.(imp)g.
while touring.
ALPHABETICAL INDEX, PAGES 169 - 314, Compiled by D. D. Williams
For index to previous pages, see p. 167. Back issues are available, see p. 274.
Adjusting P-II Starter Points 312
Annual Business Meeting 209, 259
Anti-Freeze 205, 271
Antique Car Plates, Pa 275
Art of Clever Boxing 226
Back Issues 169, 217, 274
Balancing R-R Wire Wheels 223
Bearings, Timing Gear, Replacement P-I 172
Bears in the Caviar 250
Bentley, Retubing Cylinder Block 310
Bentley S Series 195
Binder, Flying Lady 217, 233
Brakes 230, 236, 246, 256, 263, 270, 280, 295
Brass Cleaning Technique 175, 312
Brewster Coachwork for P-I 260
Bringing American Cars into Canada 243
Car Trouble Away from Home 215
Chassis Numbers
P-I 229
SG 228, 248
25/30 H.P 179
Chrome Plating 294, 303
Cleaning Silver Headlight Reflectors 215
Cleaning Spring Wells 279
Cleaning Naugahyde 312
Cleaning Really Filthy Brass 312
Clutch, S.G 190, 196
Coachwork Modifications 278
Coachwork, Restoration 241
Continental P-II 234
Cooling Systems 279, 289, 296
Correction, Springfield R-R 248
Coupling, Flexible P-I 312
Cylinder Block Water Passages P-I 205
Cylinder Head P-I British Aluminum 206
Cylinder Head P-I Aluminum 182, 198, 206
Discovery of 30 H.P. 6 Cyl. Chassis 277
Dust Covers 274
Ed Lake Wins Citation 193
Eliza Crosses the Ice 225
Exhaust Receiver, SG 230
Exhibiting Cars 183
Filing a Hexagonal Head 175
First R-R Employee 171
Flying Lady, Back Issues 169, 217, 274
Flying Lady Binder 217, 233
Flying Lady Mascot Wrench 198
Foo Dog
Won by Bill Pollock 299
Won by R. G. Burkhart 243
Frank Cox P-III Wins 299
Fuel Pump, P-III 255
Fuel Supply Troubles in P-III 175, 255
Godley, R. F 299
Greetings from President 217
Hard Steering in P-III's 223
Historical Series
Tourist Trophy, 1905, 1906 268, 276
London to Salisbury on the "Direct" Drive . . . 276
C. S. Rolls 284
20 H.P. Rolls-Royce 286
Hub Tools for P-II 212
Jacks, Rebuilding 288
Jubilee Rally 267, 308
Last Series British Silver Ghost 244
Letter from Germany 179
London to Salisbury on the "Direct" Drive 276
Lubrication, Dunlop Hubs 272
Lubrication, Springfield Hubs 271
Machinable Stainless Steel 254
Main Bearings, P-I 233
Manual, P-I 169
Manual, SG 177, 201
Mascot, Flying Lady Available 169, 217
Membership Renewal 209, 259
Mercedes-Benz Club of America 259
Mexico by Phantom II 292
Mexican Trip Proves P-III 188
Modifications to Brewster Coachwork 278
Murphy Coach Builder 210
Naugahyde, Cleaning 312
Oil Filter for SG 174
Oil Pump Gear, P-I 199
Overoiling in P-I and P-II Engines 180, 189
Phantom I
Aluminum Cylinder Heads 182, 198, 206
Aluminum Head Conversion, Note 223
Announcement of, British 186
Battery Clamp 289
Bearing Replacement for Timing Gears 172
Brakes 237, 246, 256
270, 280, 295
Brewster Coachwork 260
Chassis Numbers 229
Cylinder Block Water Passages 205
Front Axle 254
Gum in Low Speed Jet 198
Hubs 295
Items by Stanley 198
Main Bearings 233
Manual 169, 233
Oil Pump Gear 199
Overoiling in Engine 180, 189
Rear Axle Ratios 220
Rewiring Chassis 312
Sealed Engine 211
Servo 230, 263, 270, 280
Sphere, Lubrication 303
Steering, Lubrication 249
Temperature Gauge 222
Vacuum Tank 181
Valve Problems 231
Phantom II
Accelerator Pedal 272
Chassis Development 218
Continental 234
Hub Tools 212
Overoiling in Engine 180, 189
Pilot Jet 294
Rear Axle Ratios 220
Servo 230
Silencer 213
Starter, Adjusting Points 312
Phantom III
Fuel Pump 255
Fuel Supply Troubles 175
Fuses 272
Hard Steering 223
Jacks 288
Mexican Trip 188
Timing Gear Replacement 304
President's Message 193
Rear Axle Gear Ratios 220
Re-embodied Ghost 285
Relining British SG and P-I Brakes 256
Restoration of Coachwork 241
Retubing Bentley Cylinder Blocks 310
Rewiring P-I Chassis 312
Rolls-Royce, 1904 10 H.P., 1907 SG 204
Rolls-Royce Brakes 236, 246
R-R Builds Last Piston Aero Engine 225
RROC
Car Badge 217
Election 209, 259
Meets 169, 177, 185, 193, 201, 202
209, 225, 233, 243, 251, 259
267, 275, 283, 291, 300
Officers 177, 217, 267
R. R. Ltd., Straight Joins 209
R. R. Widows 209
Rolls-Royce 30 HP., 1905-06 239
Rolls-Royce V8 of 1906 221
Rusted Exhaust Nuts 265
Sealed Beam Conversion 279
Sealed Engine 211
Servo, Removing P-I and P-II 230
Silencer for P-II 213
Silver Dawn 170
Silver Ghost
1907 204
Body Styles 183
Brakes 256
Chassis No. 89AE (Dr. Graham) 179
Chassis Numbers Springfield 228, 248
Clutch 190, 196
Exhaust Receiver 230
Jubilee Rally 267, 308
Last Series British 244
Magneto Timing 214
Manual 177, 201, 233
Oil Filter 174
Rear Axle Ratios 220
Sphere, Lubrication 303
Steering Thrust Bearing, Looseness in 266
Storage 311
Sticky Valves 222
Temperature Gauge 222
Throttle Air Leak 289, 294
Tools 174
Valve Lifters, Guides 273
Silver Cloud 194
Skinned My Knuckles Just Reading It 189
Spook 201, 233, 267, 291
Springfield Rolls-Royce 227, 248
Stanley, P-I Items 198
Sticky Ghost Valves 222
Storage, Preparation for 311
Suppliers to R-R of America 229
Temperature Gauge Repair 222
30 H.P. 6 Cyl. of 1905-06 239
Timing Gear Bearing Replacement 172
Timing a Springfield Ghost Magneto 214
Tools - S.G 174
Tourist Trophy Races, 1905, 1906 268, 276
20 H.P. Rolls-Royce 286
20 H.P. Rear Axle Ratios. . 220
25/30 H.P 178
Unused Ghost Chassis 282
Vacuum Tank Starvation 181
Valves, P-I 231
Vancouver Meet 259
Vapor Lock 248
Vintage Sports Car Club 307
Wheels, Balancing 223
Wheels, Removing Dunlop Nuts 271
Wheels, Spokes 289
Windshield Joint, Rubber 279, 305
Woodmansee Wins Foo Dog 193
Wrench for Lady Mascot 198
Wraith Jacks 288
313

SILVER WRAITH 1952 Mulliner touring limousine
LWSG73, engine W72G. 26,000 miles and in beautiful
condition. Windows and partition electric, bar, tables,
foot rest, etc. Dark blue and silver grey with all upholstery
in blue leather. $9500. H. F. Shedd, 2520 Park
Ave., Minneapolis. Minn.
ROLLS-ROYCE BAZAAR
FOR SALE
SILVER GHOST 1923 Salamanca S329XH (converts from
limo. to tourer; see pp. 183, 203). Repainted deep green,
black fenders and trim, baked ivory enamel on wheels.
New black top, front upholstery. Smooth engine, 60-65
compression all cylinders. Generally fine mechanically.
Very tired mascot. Good tires. $2200. Color pix
$1. Consider trade of later 20 or early 20/25 ownerdriver
type. J. R. Utz, 140 Avon Rd., Rochester 10, N.Y.
SILVER GHOST 1922 (British) Sedan by Lancefield.
#TM27. Intact but needs restoring. $1750. Dr. Samuel
L. Scher, 1100 Park Avenue, New York, N.Y.
PHANTOM I S336FM, 1927 Iron h. Pall Mall Touring.
Needs top, paint, and upholstery. Now stored in Norfolk,
Va. Can be driven anywhere. $795.00. Kenneth M.
Barry, 5512 Barry Road, Chattanooga 11, Tenn.
PHANTOM I S286KR Brewster sedan. Completely
overhauled, new tires. To settle estate, $1750. Mrs.
Marcel Mussa, 10291 Orange Park Acres, Orange, Cal.
YOUR MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES!
PHANTOM II 1933 Continental Barker drop head coupe
(convertible), engine overhauled and body refinished
in and out by British craftsmen. Beautiful lines. About
$2500. Older P-II limousine, a bit scruffy, good family
car for kids and dogs, runs well, about $700. Both cars
now in England, but priced delivered here, duty paid.
Parker R. Snyder, c/o The Daily Standard, Celina, O.
PHANTOM II 1930 Hooper Tourer 62GY. All in good
order, driven to Cobleskill 1957. Interior partially
upholstered in new leather, leather on hand for completion.
$2800. H. K. Sowles, Jr., P.O. Route 100,
Cumberland Foreside, Portland, Maine.
PHANTOM II 1934 Freestone and Webb saloon, 70,000
miles, Rolls history sheet. New blocks and pistons
(owing to freeze-up) by R-R trained mechanics. Generally
fine condition. Write for picture. Cookham Car
Sales, Cookham, Berks., England.
1939 WRAITH Inskip Town Car WHC 24 pictured at 1956
Cobleskill meet, p. 253. Excellent condition with all
new tires in daily use. $2900. H. K. Sowles, Jr., P.O.
Route 100, Cumberland Foreside, Portland, Maine.
SILVER WRAITHS (Hydramatic). Choice of Mulliner,
Hooper, or Park Ward. All like new. Offered at less
than half of present cost, $9000 each. Dr. Samuel L.
Scher, 1100 Park Avenue, New York, N.Y.
314
HALFWAY GARAGES (Padworth) Ltd. offer newly imported
Rolls-Royce cars in mint condition, available
N.Y.: 1937 Phantom III Freestone & Webb owner-driver
sedan; 1937 25/20 Owen Sedanca Coupe (Convertible);
1920 Silver Ghost tourer by Park Ward; 1938 Bentley
Owen sedanca coupe. All above cars have been specially
selected and restored as necessary. Special cash discount
to RROC members. Interesting cars taken in
trade. Any car obtained from England to firm order.
Enquiries welcome. Spares located. Leonard Potter,
South Mountain Rd., New City, N.Y, New City 4-3901.
WANTED
YOUR MEMBERSHIP EXPIRES!
P-I or P-II, 1926 thru 1929 tourer. Prefer dual cowl.
Send pic, price, and condition infirst letter. Sy Morris,
1208 Leeper, So. Bend, Indiana.
TONNEAU windshield, radiator louvre (horizontal) for
1924 Silver Ghost Pall Mall. Logan Lewis, 377 Cotton
Avenue, Macon, Georgia.
DISTRIBUTOR for a 1925 Silver Ghost Springfield. Is
there a later model distributor that can be adapted to
the 1925? Will appreciate help from someone. Burman
G. Copher, 2929 Catalpa Dr., Dayton 6, Ohio.
TWO Brewster side mirrors for my car (259AJS), a
20" AJS wheel, two AJS 20" wheel discs, one brass
screw and washer for Brewster floorboard, and Hobson
telegage fuel indicator for P-II. Monroe Yale Mann,
4 South Main Street, Port Chester, New York.
A TOWN CAR or limousine with doubtful upholstery,
woodwork, and/or paint, but with enough of the machinery
in good shape to offer two and one-half years
exploratory labor for our 13-year-old to worry over
until he is old enough to drive what he has fixed. R.C.
Hakanson, 10322 Lk. Shore Blvd., Cleveland 8, Ohio.
RENEW YOUR MEMBERSHIP!
PARTS AND SERVICE
BRAND NEW Trippe lights, chromed and polished.
Guaranteed perfect, with bumper brackets, switch, and
6-volt bulbs. $35 pr. Sy Morris, 1208 Leeper, South
Bend, Ind.
P-I iron head engine 22926. $275.00. No water pump.
Don Price, Watsonville, California.
PAIR drum headlights stamped R-R. Henry Curtis,
274 First Ave., N.Y., N.Y.
LARGE ASSORTMENT of R-R parts for most models.
S. Adelman, 635 Columbus Ave., Mt. Vernon, N.Y.
Messrs. Schaler and Waters
Official Rolls-Royce Representatives
26 West 27th Street
Indianapolis, Indiana
Exclusively Rolls-Royce and Bentley
MASCOT, Rolls Silver lady, 6" high, from 1920 Silver
Ghost. Excellent condition. Price $50. Henry C. Wing,
Sr., Chapel Road, Brier-Adams, Massachusetts.