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Hotels Restaurants Cafés nightlife Sightseeing events Maps<br />
N°86 - €2.50<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
<strong>TALL<strong>In</strong>n</strong><br />
Hot events<br />
All the biggest happenings<br />
covered and uncovered.<br />
Tallinn’s best guide<br />
If it’s not in these pages, you<br />
don’t need to know about it.<br />
October - november november 2012 2012<br />
20<br />
Europe’s best city<br />
guides for more than<br />
20 years
Mr.<br />
&Mrs.<br />
VIP<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving 6<br />
Getting here is half the fun<br />
The Basics 7<br />
Helpful things everyone should know<br />
History 10<br />
Learn it, or you’re doomed to repeat it<br />
Culture & Events 12<br />
Concerts, art galleries, cinema and more<br />
Where to stay 17<br />
A bed for every budget<br />
Dining & Nightlife<br />
Where to eat 24<br />
From sushi to sült<br />
Cafés 43<br />
The hottest places in the caffeine scene<br />
Nightlife 46<br />
Where to pick up or not pick ‘something’<br />
Contents<br />
Sightseeing<br />
Old Town 64<br />
The medieval centre in a nutshell<br />
Sightseeing tours 66<br />
By bus, by bike or on skates<br />
Museums 68<br />
Covering city history, from mines to marzipan<br />
Kadriorg 73<br />
Stroll in Tallinn’s most beautiful park<br />
<strong>In</strong>teractive Tallinn 74<br />
Take action<br />
Around Tallinn 77<br />
Daytrips, adventures and more<br />
Transport<br />
Getting around 78<br />
Navigating Tallinn and travelling onward<br />
Shopping 83<br />
Cool souvenirs and fashion purchases<br />
Directory 90<br />
Health 92<br />
Maps & index<br />
Street register 93<br />
Old Town map 95<br />
City map 96<br />
October - November 2012<br />
3
4 foreWorD<br />
The city’s foliage has seemingly been painted rich hues of<br />
gold, crimson, ochre and Sauvignon Blanc, layers of clothing<br />
are slowly being added on top of svelte frames and a bounty<br />
of cartoon-like mushrooms are popping up everywhere<br />
- autumn has arrived in Tallinn and the Old Town looks<br />
splendid.<br />
Now that summer is over, one would think that there’s a lot<br />
less going on in this city of just over 400,000, but nothing<br />
could be further from the truth. There are still loads of<br />
activities on the cultural calendar and although we did not<br />
have space to list them all, we’re sure that at least one of the<br />
events we did mention is bound to catch your attention.<br />
Regardless of why you have made Tallinn a destination, it is a<br />
wonderful place brimming with history, fascinating tales and<br />
quite a lot of fantastic medieval architecture. It is because<br />
of this that Tallinn was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />
back in 1997 and to this day it remains one of the most intact<br />
medieval cities in Europe.<br />
So what are you waiting for? Load that shiny new 32gig card<br />
into your camera, grab a friend or a friendly stranger, make<br />
sure to put Tallinn in your pocket and explore the city for<br />
yourself. You’re bound to find something fabulous – perhaps<br />
even discover a hidden gem that we didn’t mention in this<br />
handy little guide.<br />
Always remember that this is just a guide, we try<br />
our best to provide as accurate information as<br />
possible by print time. Our experiences may differ<br />
from your experiences and if you feel we were way<br />
off the mark, please do let us know.<br />
Cover story<br />
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Vana-Viru 4, Tallinn 10111<br />
Estonia<br />
tel./fax +372 644 64 70<br />
advertising tel. +372 631 33 50<br />
tallinn@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1406-2690<br />
©OÜ Linnajuht<br />
Printed by Reusner, Tallinn<br />
Published six times per year<br />
9,000 - 12,000 copies<br />
On the cover of this autumn edition<br />
of Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> you'll find<br />
the infamous Rataskaevu or 'Cats'<br />
Well' as it's commonly refered to.<br />
We let the 'cat out of the bag' as<br />
to how it got its name on page 66.<br />
The shot was taken by our very<br />
own Küllike Johannson-Singer, both<br />
a lover of cats and a pretty good<br />
photographer.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor <strong>In</strong> Chief Nat A. Singer<br />
Contributor Steve Roman<br />
Researcher Irja Luks<br />
Layout & Design Küllike Johannson-<br />
Singer<br />
Photography Küllike Johannson-Singer,<br />
Nat A. Singer<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
General /Ad Manager<br />
Küllike Johannson Singer<br />
Sales & Circulation Marek Pärn<br />
Advertising Sales Irja Luks, Marek<br />
Pärn<br />
Publisher OÜ Linnajuht<br />
Cover Photo: Küllike Johannson-Singer<br />
© 2012<br />
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Since then, we have grown to become the largest<br />
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We now cover more than 75 cities across the<br />
continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to<br />
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Text and photos copyright OÜ Linnajuht<br />
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All rights reserved. No part of this<br />
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6 arriVing arriVing BasiCs<br />
As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easyaccess<br />
city. The passenger port and train station are both<br />
within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the<br />
airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute<br />
taxi ride away.<br />
By plane<br />
Tallinn’s airport may be a super-modern affair, but it’s so<br />
small you’re never in danger of getting lost. Once past<br />
the luggage receiving area, you’ll find ATMs and currency<br />
exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental offices<br />
are downstairs.<br />
Getting to town<br />
A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs €10 and takes between<br />
10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N°2 (marked Lennujaam<br />
- Mőigu) from the ‘A. Laikmaa’ stop, just outside the<br />
airport to the down town Viru Centre. Alternatively, the 90K<br />
Hansabuss-operated airport bus (see the listing on right).<br />
There’s also a separate shuttle that will take you and other<br />
passengers anywhere within Tallinn’s city limits for the low<br />
price of €5.<br />
By helicopter<br />
Copterline, the 18-minute helicopter service from Helsinki,<br />
lands at the Linnahall harbour. See the ‘By ship’ section for<br />
details of how to get into town.<br />
By ship<br />
Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port<br />
(reisisadam), terminals A, B and D. Left Luggage and a helpful<br />
information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal<br />
A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical.<br />
ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across<br />
the small neck of water, has similar services. Lindaline’s<br />
boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour,<br />
where a currency exchange booth is open whenever<br />
boats are arriving. Rates here are decent.<br />
Getting to town<br />
You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a<br />
taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover<br />
the short ride to town for €3.80 - 4.50.<br />
By car<br />
Crossing the border from Latvia is completely hassle-free<br />
now that the Baltics belong to Schengen. Getting over<br />
the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. <strong>In</strong> both<br />
cases, be sure to bring your car’s registration papers<br />
and a valid insurance policy, such as the international<br />
green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border<br />
station. Please note that the speed limit on highways is<br />
90km/h, in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted,<br />
and the headlights have to be always turned on. For fares<br />
and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland<br />
or Sweden, contact the ferry companies in the ‘Getting<br />
around’ section of the guide.<br />
Transportion in style<br />
Bus 90K tel. (+372) 627 90<br />
80, www.hansabuss.ee. Operated<br />
by Hansabuss on behalf<br />
of the airport, the 90K costs<br />
only €2 per ride. You can hop on<br />
or off anywhere along the route<br />
Airport - Central Bus Station - Hotel Olümpia - Freedom<br />
Square - Mere pst - Balti jaam - Hotel Tallinn - Freedom<br />
Square - Estonian Academy of Arts - Central Bus Station<br />
- Airport. The comfortable and roomy bus runs every 20<br />
minutes from 7:20 - 18:40 daily and also offers free WIFI.<br />
By bus<br />
Buses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-4), just off<br />
the main highway from Tartu, but Eurolines passengers coming<br />
in from Riga or Vilnius should strongly consider hopping off at<br />
the much more central Viru väljak stop (ask other passengers<br />
where), rather than continuing on to the bus station itself. Once<br />
at the station, you’ll find left luggage in the basement. The<br />
cash-only currency exchange takes all major currencies,<br />
including Russian roubles, but gives appallingly bad rates. The<br />
ATM by the main entrance is probably a better bet.<br />
Getting to town<br />
The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tänav from<br />
behind the station. Buses N°17A, 23 and 23A leave directly<br />
from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse<br />
väljak (4th stop) in the centre, while trams N°2 and 4 run<br />
from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru väljak (4th stop), also<br />
in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about €5.75.<br />
By train<br />
Arriving by train at Tallinn’s Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a<br />
couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. Since<br />
renovations the station itself is no longer a Soviet-era relic<br />
and now includes a nice restaurant and even a day spa, in<br />
case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage<br />
is in the back of the main hall, just off the breeze-way that<br />
leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left<br />
luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and<br />
Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors.<br />
Getting to town<br />
Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tänav<br />
into Old Town, or take trams N°1 or 2 from behind the station<br />
three stops to the Mere pst. stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here.<br />
Using taxis in Tallinn<br />
Tallinn's taxis are notorious for overcharging - even the<br />
mayor got ripped off! (Granted, he was, pretending to<br />
be an Italian tourist at the time.) Drivers either set high<br />
mileage rates or fix their meters to run at light speed.<br />
There's no sure-fire way to avoid the cheats. but there<br />
are precautions you can take. Get to know the average<br />
rates, and try to order a taxi by phone, rather than getting<br />
one off the street. Turn to the ‘Getting around' section<br />
for phone numbers and fare details. Barring that, you can<br />
ask the driver for an estimate of how much the ride will be<br />
beforehand. Also see ‘Arriving' for estimates of how much<br />
rides should cost from the bus station, airport, etc. To<br />
report a cheat, call the 24-hour hotline, tel. 1345.<br />
Basic data<br />
Tallinn<br />
Population: 417,150 (as of 01.09.2012)<br />
Density: 2,618.6 inhabitants/km2<br />
Ethnic composition: Estonians 52.5%, Russians<br />
38.5%, Ukrainians 3.7%, Others 5.4%<br />
Estonia<br />
Population: 1,294,236 (as of 31.05.2012)<br />
Density: 28.6 inhabitants/km2<br />
Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.7%, Russians<br />
24.8%, Others 6.4%.<br />
Territory: 45,227km2<br />
Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics)<br />
is Suur Munamägi (318m) in Võru County<br />
Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa<br />
2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2<br />
Lakes: Lake Peipsi, on the Russian border, covers an<br />
area of 3,555km2, of which 1,529km2 is in Estonia. It<br />
also holds the title as the 4th largest lake in Europe.<br />
Rivers: Estonia’s longest rivers are the Võhandu 162km,<br />
Pärnu 144km, and Põltsamaa 135km.<br />
Other cities: Tartu 98,670, Narva 64,435, Pärnu<br />
42,625, Kohtla-Järve 40,330.<br />
Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone<br />
(GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the<br />
last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October.<br />
Borders<br />
Estonia belongs to the Schengen visa area, which includes<br />
22 EU countries, Norway and Iceland. It means<br />
that if you are travelling to Estonia from within the Schengen<br />
border control-free area, you will not be required to<br />
show any documentation when you arrive in Estonia,<br />
whether it be by ship, plane or by car. <strong>In</strong> fact you will not<br />
have to go through customs at all, but each individual<br />
country still maintains the right to perform intermittent<br />
checks. Of course if you arrive in Estonia from outside<br />
the Schengen zone you will still be required to show<br />
your passport or EU identity card if applicable. For more<br />
information on Schengen and how it might apply to your<br />
trip to Estonia, logon to the Estonian Foreign Ministry’s<br />
website at www.vm.ee.<br />
Customs<br />
European alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia<br />
headed to another EU country, you can take out as much<br />
booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for<br />
your personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU<br />
country, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in<br />
duty-free 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10<br />
litres of hard alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes,<br />
400 cigarillos, 200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When<br />
leaving, beware of stricter tobacco restrictions if you’re<br />
headed to the UK, Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky<br />
travellers from non-EU countries can carry in a measly 4<br />
litres of wine (not exceeding €175 in combined value), 2<br />
litres of beverages up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard<br />
alcohol; 40 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 50g<br />
pure tobacco. How much booze and smokes you can<br />
take home depends on your own country’s restrictions.<br />
For more information, contact the Customs Department,<br />
Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 880 08 14, tolliinfo@emta.ee, www.<br />
emta.ee.<br />
National holidays<br />
January 1 New Year’s Day<br />
February 24 <strong>In</strong>dependence Day (1918)<br />
March 29 (2013) Good Friday<br />
March 31 (2013) Easter Sunday<br />
May 1 May Day<br />
June 23 Victory Day (1919 Battle of Võnnu - Cēsis)<br />
June 24 St. John’s Day (Midsummer)<br />
August 20 Day of Restoration of <strong>In</strong>dependence (1991)<br />
December 24 Christmas Eve<br />
December 25 Christmas Day<br />
December 26 Boxing Day<br />
Electricity<br />
The electrical current is 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Sockets take<br />
the standard, round-pinned European plugs.<br />
Ethnic groups<br />
About 68% of Estonia’s population is made up of ethnic Estonians,<br />
descendents of Finno-Ugric tribes that settled this<br />
area about 5,000 years ago. The largest minority in today’s<br />
Estonia is by far the Russians, at roughly 26% of the national<br />
population. Along with Ukrainians and Byelorussians, thousands<br />
of Russians moved or were sent here during Soviet<br />
times, and chose to remain after independence. Though<br />
some integration is taking place among the younger generation,<br />
language and cultural barriers tend to keep Estonians<br />
and Russian-speakers apart.<br />
Getting cash<br />
You should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn - cash<br />
machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks are usually<br />
your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on weekends,<br />
however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid<br />
at Aia 5 has good rates and also runs an all-night exchange<br />
window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates aren’t as good<br />
as what they are during the daytime. Another place that offers<br />
very good rates is Eurex at Estonia pst. 7. Beware of bright<br />
blue and yellow Monex exchanges around town. These have<br />
convenient locations and working hours, but generally give<br />
unfavourable rates and even charge a €3.20 - 6.40 commission<br />
on each transaction - even when they state in big bold<br />
letters ‘No Commission’.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
7
8 BasiCs<br />
Tourist information points<br />
Tallinn Traveller <strong>In</strong>fo C-2, Vana-Posti 2, tel. (+372)<br />
58 37 48 00, tallinn@traveller.ee, www.traveller.ee.<br />
Just steps from the ‘official’ tourist information office, this<br />
alternative tourist information point is run by local young<br />
people for travellers of all ages - albeit geared a little more<br />
towards the ‘youthful’ crowd. They offer their advice on<br />
what’s happening each night on the entertainment scene,<br />
as well as their favourite eateries and which hostels have<br />
vacancies, as well as some inexpensive, alternative tours<br />
(see ‘Sightseeing’ section). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre C-2, Niguliste 2/Kullassepa<br />
4, tel. (+372) 645 77 77, fax (+372) 645 77<br />
78, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism.tallinn.<br />
ee. The city’s official tourist information point is the best<br />
equipped to answer any question. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. J<br />
Language<br />
Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely<br />
unrelated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any<br />
other <strong>In</strong>do-European tongue. Along with Finnish and<br />
Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group<br />
of languages, thought to have originated somewhere<br />
beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the<br />
younger generation and those in the tourist industry<br />
speak English. You can find some of the more essential<br />
words and phrases on left.<br />
Money<br />
<strong>In</strong> 2011 Estonia joined the common European currency, good<br />
news for all of the tourists who visit Estonia from countries<br />
that already use the Euro. If you happen to come from a<br />
country that does not use the Euro, it should also be easier<br />
to change your money before you arrive as most banks around<br />
the world stock this currency. Standard Euro denominations<br />
are legal tender, however you may find it difficult to pay with<br />
any bills over 50. All ATMs operate on international systems.<br />
Credit cards are easy to use - major hotels, most restaurants<br />
and a pretty much all downtown shops accept Visa,<br />
Mastercard and EC. American Express, Globus and Diner’s<br />
Club are less common.<br />
Urgent care<br />
The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11 45, can provide<br />
treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the<br />
appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try<br />
the round-the-clock Tõnismäe pharmacy (see pharmacies).<br />
For dramatic situations that require an ambulance, call tel.<br />
112. Emergency operators speak English.<br />
Key phrases<br />
Hello Tere<br />
Goodbye Head aega<br />
Please Palun<br />
Thank you Aitäh<br />
Excuse me Vabandust<br />
Yes Jah<br />
No Ei<br />
Zero Null<br />
One Üks<br />
Two Kaks<br />
Three Kolm<br />
Four Neli<br />
Five Viis<br />
Six Kuus<br />
Seven Seitse<br />
Eight Kaheksa<br />
Nine Üheksa<br />
Ten Kümme<br />
Hundred Sada<br />
Thousand Tuhat<br />
Push (on a door) Lükka<br />
Pull (on a door) Tõmba<br />
Where is... ? Kus asub...?<br />
How much does ... cost? Kui palju maksab...<br />
Bon appetit! Head isu!<br />
One beer, please! Palun üks õlu!<br />
Cheers! Terviseks!<br />
What’s your name? Mis sinu nimi on?<br />
You have beautiful eyes. Sul on ilusad silmad.<br />
Will you marry me? Kas sa abielluks minuga?<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Estonianisms<br />
Noh... Well.../Um...<br />
This sounds like ‘No’, but actually just means the speaker<br />
is temporarily tongue-tied<br />
On ju? Eks ju? Right? Isn’t it?<br />
Two interjections that punctuate Estonian speech<br />
Head isu! Bon appetit!<br />
...or ‘Good Appetite’, as you will sometimes hear<br />
Jätku leiba! May there be enough bread!<br />
begins a meal. The polite answer is...<br />
Jätku tarvis. It’s needed.<br />
Jõudu tööle! Power to your work!<br />
Expression of goodwill, used when you come upon<br />
someone hard at work<br />
Jõudu tarvis Power needed<br />
The formulaic answer<br />
Tervist!<br />
Lit. Health!<br />
Gesundheit!/Bless you!<br />
Ole tubli! Take care, be good!<br />
Kuidas käsi käib? How are you?<br />
Lit. How does the hand go?<br />
Ikka käib Still goin’<br />
Typically laconic Estonian reply<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Public toilets<br />
Study your geometry to avoid an<br />
embarrassing situation: A triangle<br />
pointing down signifies the men's<br />
room (M or Meeste), while the triangle<br />
pointing up is the women's<br />
room (N or Naiste).<br />
Visitors with pressing needs won’t be left with their legs<br />
crossed, as there are quite a few public toilets around the<br />
city. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) and<br />
there’s a Swedish-built automatic WC on Toompea Hill (C-<br />
1), nicknamed locally the ‘million-crown toilet’ due to the<br />
public outcry at its construction bill. It can be found next<br />
to the Nevski Cathedral (C/D-1). There’s also a few new<br />
high-tech, self-cleaning ones around the city. The most<br />
central is right next to Tammsaare Park (C-3), and others<br />
can be found at; Toompark near Balti Jaam (B-1), Police<br />
Garden (H-3, on Gonsiori street), Kanuti Garden (B-4),<br />
Piiskopi Garden (C-1) and in Kadriorg next to the Roheline<br />
aas Street parking lot (H-4). However, the fear of being<br />
trapped inside may deter the more easily frightened, no<br />
matter how badly they need to ‘pee’.<br />
Religion<br />
Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all tree-worshiping<br />
pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isn’t a very religious<br />
country at all. There is no state religion, and according to<br />
the 2000 census, only 31.8% of the population claims any<br />
religious affiliation. Of those that do, about 180,000 are<br />
Lutheran and 170,000 Russian Orthodox.<br />
Tax free shopping<br />
'Tax-free' shopping is finally starting to gain popularity<br />
in Estonia and if you are a non-EU resident and plan to<br />
spend over €38 on electronics, clothing or even souvenirs<br />
- it just might be worth trying to claim the tax back. When<br />
Free internet for all<br />
Making the call<br />
BasiCs<br />
By now, most have heard that Estonia is indeed<br />
a pretty tech-savy country. <strong>In</strong> fact much<br />
of the country is blanketed in WiFi or wireless<br />
internet hotspots. From long-distance buses<br />
to cafeś, pubs and even some shops and<br />
public areas - WIFI is everywhere. For foreigners visiting Tallinn<br />
this means you'll be able to check e-mails, SKYPE with friends<br />
back home or share photos on Facebook using your Android<br />
phone, iPhone or Blackberry - free of charge. Just look for the<br />
orange and black WiFi sign and you're good to go. With all that<br />
free WiFi around, you'll also want to purchase the Tallinn <strong>In</strong><br />
<strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> iPhone app available here. <strong>In</strong> Estonia, WiFi information<br />
including WiFi locations is provided by www.WiFi.ee.<br />
making a purchase just present your passport, ask for a<br />
tax-free stamp on your receipt and take receipts along with<br />
unused purchases to the customs office at the airport or<br />
border-crossings into Russia when you leave the country.<br />
At the airport, anything checked into luggage will need to<br />
be claimed at Customs before you enter the security gates,<br />
items in your hand luggage can be claimed from the Customs<br />
booth between gates 5 and 7. Visit www.globalrefund.com<br />
for more details.<br />
Visas<br />
Estonia is in the European Union and lucky citizens can<br />
conveniently enter the country with just a national ID card. All<br />
others need valid passports. You can enter Estonia visa-free<br />
and stay 90 days if you’re a citizen of any EU country, Norway,<br />
Iceland, Switzerland, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand,<br />
Israel, Argentina, South Korea and a number of other countries<br />
listed on the website below. All others, including South<br />
Africans, Russians, Byelorussians and Ukrainians do need<br />
a visa to come to Estonia. Because of the Schengen Border<br />
Treaty, anyone requiring a visa for Schengen countries only<br />
need to obtain a visa from one of these countries in order to<br />
visit Estonia. Anyone staying in Estonia for more than 90 days<br />
(180 days for UK citizens) needs either a residents permit<br />
or a visa, though there are certain very specific exceptions<br />
for EU citizens. For all the details, contact the consular<br />
department of the Foreign Ministry, tel. 631 74 40, or check<br />
their website, www.vm.ee, which has more information than<br />
you’ll ever need.<br />
Making the call<br />
Calling within Estonia To call any number within Estonia,<br />
either from a fixed line or a local mobile, just dial the<br />
number as it’s written. There are no city codes in Estonia.<br />
Mobile numbers Estonian mobile numbers all begin<br />
with ‘5’. Just dial the number as is. Again, there are no<br />
special codes.<br />
Calling Estonia from abroad Estonia’s country code is<br />
+372. Just dial your international access code (00 from<br />
most European countries), then 372 then the number, be<br />
it mobile or land line. That’s it.<br />
Roaming To call any telephone in Estonia from a foreign<br />
mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number, as<br />
outlined before.<br />
Calling abroad from Estonia Dial 00, the country code,<br />
then the rest of the numbers.<br />
October - November 2012<br />
9
10 history history<br />
Estonia through the ages<br />
3,000BC<br />
Finno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east and settle along the<br />
north Baltic coast, mixing with Neolithic tribes.<br />
1st Century<br />
Roman historian Tacitus writes of a local tribe called Aestii.<br />
12th Century<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1154, Arab cartographer al-Idrisi marks Tallinn on his map<br />
as Koluvan, describing it as a seasonal stronghold - the first<br />
mention of the city in historic records.<br />
13th Century<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1202 the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans<br />
around the Baltic Sea. Bishop Albert founds the Order of<br />
the Knights of the Sword. This leads to four decades of<br />
bloody battles and shifting alliances among the Germans<br />
(based in Riga), Danes, Swedes, Russians, Lithuanians and<br />
local tribes. <strong>In</strong> 1219 King Voldemar II of Denmark takes the<br />
stronghold of the north Estonian Rävala people as a base<br />
for his forces (hence the name Tallinn: Taani = Danish, linn<br />
= city). German merchants settle the town, and in 1248<br />
are granted the right to use Lübeck Law, effectively making<br />
Tallinn an autonomous entity. <strong>In</strong> the 1280s, Tallinn joins the<br />
powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities.<br />
14th Century<br />
Estonian towns become important trading links between East<br />
and West and grow in size and strength. Ethnic Estonians,<br />
however, remain serfs while German landowners reap the<br />
benefits. The bloody St George’s Night Uprising of 1343<br />
convinces the Danish King to sell his provinces to the German<br />
Knights two years later.<br />
16th Century<br />
Estonians suffer another bout of shifting borders and<br />
imposed military service during the Livonian War (1558-<br />
1583). Ivan the Terrible advances claims on Estonia.<br />
Denmark and Poland enter the fray, but Sweden quickly gains<br />
control of the territory. <strong>In</strong>termittent warfare with Poland lasts<br />
into the next century.<br />
17th Century<br />
The Swedish period in Estonian history is marked by cultural<br />
advancement. Tartu University opens in 1632 and by the<br />
close of the century nearly every parish has a school. <strong>In</strong> 1645<br />
Denmark cedes Saaremaa to Sweden, joining Estonia under<br />
a single force for the first time.<br />
18th Century<br />
Sweden battles Russia, Denmark and Poland in the Northern<br />
War (1700-1721), losing Estonia to Russia in 1710. During<br />
the 200 years of tsarist rule that follow, Estonia’s peasants<br />
live in the same conditions of near-slavery as the serfs of<br />
Russia. <strong>In</strong> 1739 the Bible is published in Estonian.<br />
19th Century<br />
So-called Estophiles study the local language and found<br />
consciousness-raising societies. Literacy spreads and<br />
Estonian-language periodicals appear. The second half of the<br />
century is marked by the National Awakening: the formation<br />
of a national consciousness among Estonians and an active<br />
period of scholarship and literary creation. The first song<br />
festival, held in Tartu in 1869, represents the first public<br />
demonstration of Estonian national identity. Tsar Alexander<br />
III stifles this when he comes to the throne in 1881, initiating<br />
a period of intense Russification.<br />
Tallinn‘s founding legend<br />
Stick around Tallinn long enough and you’re bound to<br />
hear the name Kalev bandied about. There are countless<br />
Kalev sports teams and there’s even a Kalev brand of<br />
chocolate. But just who was this Kalev person?<br />
Kalev is in fact a mythical giant from Tallinn’s distant past<br />
who is credited with founding the city. As the story goes,<br />
Kalev was sailing the seas looking for a spot to land and<br />
establish a kingdom. Eventually a prophecy led him to<br />
what is now Estonia’s capital. Upon Kalev’s death, his<br />
wife Linda was so stricken with grief that she over-did his<br />
burial mound, piling enough stones on his grave to form<br />
Toompea hill, which to this day looms over Old Town. When<br />
the contentious Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral was built<br />
on the hill at the beginning of the 20th century, a rumour<br />
was spread that Kalev’s ghost would haunt anyone who<br />
interfered with the construction. Nobody did.<br />
Arguably an even more important figure in the Estonian<br />
tradition is Kalev’s son, Kalevipoeg. Tales of Kalevipoeg’s<br />
adventures were set down in the form of an epic<br />
poem of the same name by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald<br />
and published in 1857. At the time Estonia was undergoing<br />
a literary and cultural awakening, and Kalevipoeg<br />
became both a focal point for national identity and a<br />
major step in founding an Estonian literary tradition.<br />
The first republic<br />
Estonia takes advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by<br />
WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, declaring independence<br />
on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany<br />
takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in<br />
November Red forces move in. The War for <strong>In</strong>dependence lasts<br />
13 months. <strong>In</strong> the Tartu Peace Treaty, signed February 2, 1920,<br />
Soviet Russia renounces claims to the territory “for all time”.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1921 the Republic of Estonia is accepted into the League of<br />
Nations. Reforms progress quickly and social welfare laws are<br />
on a par with those in Europe. A political crisis in the mid-1930s<br />
brings the young republic to the verge of authoritarianism.<br />
President Konstantin Päts bans political parties and restricts<br />
civil rights but maintains popular support.<br />
World War II<br />
On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the Molotov-<br />
Ribbentrop pact, in which secret protocols carve Eastern<br />
Europe into spheres of influence. On June 16, 1940, the USSR<br />
accuses the Baltic states of aggression and demands the<br />
right to occupy them. ‘Elections’ take place July 14 - 15, with<br />
Soviet-approved candidates. The phoney parliament applies<br />
for admittance to the USSR, which is granted August 6. WWII<br />
continues to rage across Europe and by the end of 1941 the<br />
Nazis win Estonia from the Soviets. The German occupation<br />
lasts three years. Soviet forces begin air attacks March 15,<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
1942, and cause serious damage in the infamous attack of<br />
March 9, 1944. By September the Germans have fled. Estonia<br />
is declared a Republic again on September 18, but Soviet<br />
forces reach Tallinn four days later.<br />
Soviet occupation<br />
<strong>In</strong> the first years of the renewed Soviet regime, 36,000<br />
Estonians are arrested and accused of aiding the Nazis.<br />
At the same time 30,000 - 35,000 people flee to the<br />
woods to resist the regime as Forest Brothers. <strong>In</strong> the years<br />
following, Estonia endures political repression and isolation,<br />
while Estonians who had fled to the West try to keep their<br />
culture alive in exile. During the post-Stalin period, life in<br />
Estonia takes on a bureaucratic routine similar to that<br />
found elsewhere in the USSR. Over the coming decades,<br />
hundreds of thousands of ethnic Russians are sent to live<br />
in the Estonian territory. <strong>In</strong> the 1970s and 80s, Finnish TV<br />
broadcasts give Tallinn residents a glimpse of life in the<br />
West.<br />
1956<br />
Surviving Estonians who had been deported to Siberia are<br />
allowed to return.<br />
1977<br />
February 24 The blue-black-white flag rises illegally over the<br />
Vanemuine Theatre in Tartu to mark the 59th anniversary of<br />
the first Estonian Republic.<br />
1980<br />
July 19-August 3 Moscow Olympic Games. Tallinn’s Olympic<br />
yachting centre, Pirita and Olümpia hotels and airport<br />
terminal are built for the occasion.<br />
Road to independence<br />
1987<br />
What had started as a series of environmental protests<br />
quickly develops into a new National Awakening as<br />
demonstrations against the system become more open.<br />
1988<br />
June 10-14 Over 100,000 people a night pack the Tallinn<br />
Song Festival Grounds. The events of the summer are<br />
henceforth known as the Singing Revolution.<br />
September 11 More than 300,000 Estonians gather at the<br />
Song Grounds and hear Trivimi Velliste make the first public<br />
demand for independence.<br />
November 16 <strong>In</strong> a move known as the beginning of the end<br />
for the Soviet Union, the Supreme Soviet of the Estonian SSR<br />
passes a declaration of sovereignty.<br />
1989<br />
February 24 The Estonian flag is raised over Tallinn, inciting<br />
protests and massive strikes.<br />
August 23 Two million people join hands along the<br />
600km road between Tallinn and Vilnius to mark the 50th<br />
anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact.<br />
November 12 The Estonian Supreme Soviet nullifies<br />
Estonia’s entry into the USSR.<br />
1990<br />
March 23 The Estonian Communist Party declares<br />
independence from the central party.<br />
May 8 The ESSR is officially renamed the Republic of Estonia,<br />
despite not yet having declared independence.<br />
1991<br />
March 3 78% of voters cast their vote for independence<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
in a referendum.<br />
August 19 During the failed Moscow coup, additional Soviet<br />
military units are moved to Estonia from Pskov, Russia.<br />
August 20 Estonia declares independence.<br />
August 23 Lenin’s statue comes down in Tallinn.<br />
August 24 Russia recognises Estonian independence.<br />
A new republic<br />
1992<br />
After prices rose by 629% in 1991, the government<br />
introduces ration coupons.<br />
June 20 The Estonian kroon becomes the first national<br />
currency introduced in the former Soviet Union.<br />
1994<br />
September 28 852 people perish when the 15,000-tonne<br />
ferry Estonia sinks en route to Stockholm.<br />
1999<br />
November 13 Estonia becomes the 135th member of the<br />
World Trade Organization (WTO).<br />
2004<br />
March 29 Estonia joins NATO.<br />
May 1 Estonia becomes an EU member as the bloc expands<br />
to encompass ten new states.<br />
2007<br />
April 26 - 27 Street riots, mainly involving young, ethnic<br />
Russians, break out after protests over the relocation of a<br />
Soviet Army monument from the city centre.<br />
December 21 Estonia joins Schengen.<br />
2009<br />
June 22 The Freedom Monument is unveiled.<br />
2011<br />
January 1 Estonia joins the common European curreny Euro.<br />
May 10 Microsoft agrees to purchase Estonian-founded<br />
Skype. The $8.5 billion USD purchase is the largest<br />
acquisition in Microsoft history.<br />
What’s in a name?<br />
The evolution of the name Tallinn is a confusing one.<br />
Tallinn’s first world map appearance was in 1154 when<br />
Arabian geographer Abu Abdallah Muhammad al-Idrisi<br />
called it Qaleveni. <strong>In</strong> ancient Russian chronicles the same<br />
name appears as Kolõvan, supposedly from the word<br />
kaleva or kalõva which means something solid or strong.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the first half of the 13th century Henric the Lett called<br />
Tallinn Lyndanise in his Livonian Chronicle.<br />
Soon afterwards the more commonly known German<br />
name, Reval. The actual name Tallinn is from the Danish<br />
period (1219-1346). <strong>In</strong> 1219 the Danish King Waldemar<br />
II conquered northern Estonia and built his own stone fortress<br />
at Toompea. The Danes then referred to Tallinn as<br />
Castrum Danorum, which basically means Danish castle.<br />
Translated into Estonian it became tannin lidna. Abbreviate<br />
this and it’s easy to see how you get Tallinn. Even<br />
after the Danes left, many Estonians continued to use the<br />
name Tallinn while almost everyone else preferred Reval.<br />
It was only in 1918 after independence from Russia that<br />
Reval was totally dropped. For a while both Tallinn and<br />
Tallinna were then used. <strong>In</strong> 1925 Tallinna was declared<br />
official, but soon after Estonia changed its mind and in<br />
1933 Tallinn became the final name for the capital city.<br />
October - November 2012<br />
11
12 Culture & eVents<br />
Tallinn is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several<br />
interesting museums and galleries, and even a couple of<br />
art-house cinemas. Check these pages to see what's coming<br />
up. If you are still thirsting for more, an exhaustive calendar<br />
of cultural events is available at www.culture.ee.<br />
Main events<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong>ternational Horse Show October 5 - 7, Saku<br />
Suurhall, www.tallinnhorseshow.ee. “Hi-yo Silver, away!”<br />
Celebrating its eleventh year, the Tallinn <strong>In</strong>ternational Horse<br />
Show is set to be an equestrian experience extraordinaire.<br />
Horses and riders from all over Europe will try to jump and<br />
trot their way to a hoofed victory in this Central European<br />
League World Cup event. This hoofed extravaganza has<br />
become a must-see for the whole family.<br />
W.A.S.P. October<br />
16, Rock Café<br />
(p.48), www.<br />
piletilevi.ee. Not to<br />
be confused with the<br />
W.A.S.P (White Anglo-<br />
Saxon Protestant)<br />
organisation, in fact<br />
they couldn't be more<br />
different. This heavy<br />
metal band hailing from Los Angeles is pretty much a mustsee<br />
for fans of the genre. Unfortunately, as is usually so with<br />
bands from the genre that are still touring - Blackie Lawless<br />
is the only original member left. It shouldn't discourage<br />
concert-goers however, he's pretty much always been the<br />
face of the band anyway.<br />
Estonian Championships in Classic Bodybuilding<br />
October 21, Salme Cultural Centre (F-2, Salme 12),<br />
www.fitness.ee. The organisers of this musclebound event<br />
have decided to continue where they left off in 2011 when<br />
it was a more international competition. Examples of classic<br />
body building as well as competitions in the categories of<br />
women and men’s fitness and body fitness will be highlighted<br />
during this one-day event. They aim to promote ‘healthy<br />
lifestyles, pure sports and pure ideals’. So if you like women<br />
with pecs smaller than yours or oiled-up men who can carry a<br />
Lada, you certainly shouldn't miss this one.<br />
PÖFF<br />
Tallinn Black<br />
Nights Film<br />
Festival PÖFF<br />
November<br />
12 – 28,<br />
various venues<br />
throughout<br />
Tallinn, www.<br />
poff.ee. Even<br />
though it’s called<br />
the “Black Nights Film Festival”, PÖFF, as it is known to<br />
locals, is the biggest and brightest film festival in all of<br />
the Baltics and Scandinavia. The festival takes place all<br />
over Estonia and consists of the main program, several<br />
sub-festivals and events directed at film industry<br />
professionals and cinemaphiles alike. Films from all<br />
around the globe are shown but the focus continues to<br />
be on European cinema. There'll be over 200 films in the<br />
main program and you’re not really a film-buff unless you<br />
watch them all. The 'party' headquarters will be located<br />
at Wabadus (see p.44) and tickets go on sale starting<br />
November 9th in Solaris Centre (p.14), Viru Centre<br />
(p.88) and Coca-Cola Plaza (p.16). See website for full<br />
schedule and all the details.<br />
Some like it hot!<br />
8th <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Tallinn Salsa Festival<br />
November 15 – 18,<br />
various locations<br />
throughout Tallinn www.<br />
tallinnsalsafestival.org.<br />
This 4-day, Sals-traveganza<br />
includes workshops,<br />
lessons and stunning<br />
shows by dancers from<br />
across the globe. The<br />
workshops, taught by such<br />
experienced international<br />
instructors as Helio Santos<br />
from Portugal, Mark-<br />
Photo by Helio Santos<br />
Anthony from Canada and Italians Dani & Giulia to name<br />
just a few, take place during the day and DJs will spin<br />
some caliente salsa tracks at night - guaranteed to<br />
set the dance floor ablaze. And relatively new to the<br />
Baltics, you’ll be able to witness various dance-styles<br />
such as Funana, Salsa Cubana, LA Style Salsa, NY Style<br />
Salsa, PuertoRican, Chachacha, Bachata, Bachatango,<br />
Reggaeton, Zouk, Kizomba and Kuduru. If you ask us,<br />
that’s more fun than you can throw a shoe... or two at.<br />
See website for full schedule and prices.<br />
Steve Vai October 25,<br />
Rock Café (p.48), www.<br />
ticketpro.ee. Steve Vai<br />
– what can we say about<br />
Steve Vai? Perhaps only<br />
that he is one of the best<br />
guitarists ever!!! <strong>In</strong> fact<br />
he's right up there with<br />
Hendrix, Clapton, Jeff Beck,<br />
"Stevie" Ray Vaughan, and<br />
Gary Moore. Winning more awards than practically every<br />
guitarist on the planet, aspiring guitarists want to be like him<br />
and women throw themselves at him, or at least their best<br />
bras, while watching him make his six, seven, twelve-string<br />
electrical guitars sing. Just imagine what a man who can<br />
expertly play a double-neck 12-string guitar can do with those<br />
fingers... Check this show out, people, and we'll be extremely<br />
envious as babysitters are hard to come by in this city.<br />
Festival Klaver October 26 - November 02, Estonia<br />
Concert Hall, www.concert.ee/klaverifestival. It's<br />
all about the piano, dude! Even if you haven't heard of<br />
most of them, or have difficulty pronouncing their names -<br />
performances by some of the world's greats will be held at<br />
this festival dedicated to all things piano. It'll be quite a site<br />
to watch the maestros deftly slide their long fingers over<br />
the ivories, and don't forget to pay attention to their feet<br />
– Mario Andretti can't even compete with their pedal skills.<br />
Seriously though, if piano music is your thing this should<br />
truly be a great event. See website for list of performers<br />
and schedule.<br />
Katatonia November 6, Rock Café (p.48), www.<br />
ticketpro.ee. With the exception of a small handful of<br />
bands, Sepultura comes to mind, everyone knows that<br />
the best and hardest metal music comes from Northern<br />
countries, whose cold winters and harsh climates certainly<br />
lend themselves well to the creation of this genre of music.<br />
Hailing from Sweden, and certainly fitting the above<br />
mentioned explanation of why metal is simply better from<br />
the North, Katatonia is no exception. Their music is hard,<br />
dark and goes down better with a shot of Jägermeister or<br />
Absinthe than a Pinot Noir. If you’re a fan of metal or the<br />
aforementioned drinks, then this show should be perfectly<br />
suited to you.<br />
St. Martin’s Day Fair November 08 - 11, Saku<br />
Suurhall, www.folkart.ee. <strong>In</strong> honour of St. Martin’s Day,<br />
the Estonian Folkart and Handicraft Union organises this<br />
fair involving workshops, handicraft sales, national cuisine,<br />
folk music, ‘Mardi’ costumes and the general promotion<br />
of the folk lifestyle. A perfect place to load up on gifts<br />
for... yeah that’s right, Christmas. But personally we like it<br />
best for the home-brewed beer, dark bread slathered with<br />
butter and the smoked meat... mmmm.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Open Cup 2012<br />
November 24 - 25, Saku<br />
Suurhall, www.tkrevalia.<br />
ee. Brought to you by the<br />
Estonian Dance Sport<br />
Association or EDSA for short,<br />
this all Latin dance competition<br />
will feature some of the best<br />
tans and sexiest legs from<br />
Estonia and all over Europe.<br />
Watch as these perma-smilers,<br />
spin and twist and shake<br />
and strut - their scantily-clad<br />
booties to coveted titles and prizes that probably include a<br />
year supply of self-tanner and chiropractic treatments.<br />
Chick Corea Trio<br />
(USA) November 14,<br />
Nokia Concert Hall,<br />
www.ticketpro.ee.<br />
Simply one of the best Jazz<br />
artists on the planet, this<br />
18-time, Grammy Award<br />
Winner has played with<br />
some of the greats and<br />
influenced many of the<br />
rest of them. Considered a<br />
bit of a revolutionary when<br />
it comes to jazz, his styles<br />
range from classic, bare-bones jazz to fusion - of which he<br />
was one of the founding fathers. It aint mean a thing unless<br />
you got that swing, so swing on over to thsi state-of-theart<br />
venue on November 14th for what should be a stunning<br />
tribute to jazz.<br />
Folk holidays in autumn<br />
All Souls’ Day Nov<br />
02. Estonians don’t celebrate<br />
Halloween, but they<br />
do have a day to honour<br />
their dead. All Souls’ Day<br />
(Hingedepäev) is a solemn,<br />
private affair in which the<br />
dead are honoured by placing<br />
candles in windows<br />
or on graves. <strong>In</strong>deed any<br />
cemetery visited on that night will be filled with the eerily<br />
beautiful glow of flickering flames.<br />
St. Martin’s Day (Mardipäev) Nov 10. One of the<br />
most important holidays in the rural calendar, St. Martin’s<br />
Day traditionally marks the end of the autumn season.<br />
Young folks in the countryside put on costumes and go<br />
door to door, singing and begging for treats.<br />
St. Catherine’s Day (Kadripäev) Nov 25. The<br />
female equivalent of Mardipäev, with similar activities.<br />
<strong>In</strong>stead of animal masks however, revellers of both<br />
genders dress as women. Don’t ask.<br />
Culture & eVents<br />
Tickets you say?<br />
Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletilevi<br />
C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, www.<br />
piletilevi.ee. Ticketpro, D/E-3/4, Solaris Centre, Estonia<br />
pst. 9, tel. 624 80 32, www.ticketpro.ee. Estonia's major<br />
concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office<br />
in Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 00, fax 614 77<br />
09, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee.<br />
Concert halls<br />
Estonia Concert Hall D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. (+372)<br />
614 77 60, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee. The<br />
premier venue for classical music and the home of national<br />
concert organiser Eesti Kontsert. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 17:00. On Sundays open one hour before scheduled<br />
concerts. J<br />
Estonian National Opera D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 683 12 14/(+372) 683 12 15, info@opera.ee,<br />
www.opera.ee. Tallinn's pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and<br />
frequent performances by internationally-renowned guests.<br />
Tickets cost up to €31. Q Box office open 11:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Gate Tower (Väravatorn) C/D-1/2, Lühike jalg 9, tel.<br />
(+372) 644 07 19, hortus@concert.ee, www.concert.<br />
ee. This 15th-century tower is the spiritual and physical<br />
home of early music ensemble Hortus Musicus. Q See<br />
www.concert.ee for exact data. J<br />
House of the Brotherhood of the Black Heads<br />
(Mustpeade Maja) B-3, Pikk 26, tel. (+372) 631 31<br />
99, info@mustpeademaja.ee, www.mustpeademaja.<br />
ee. This ornate 15th-century guild hall hosts the occasional<br />
classical music concerts. Q Box office open one hour before<br />
performance. J<br />
Niguliste Museum-Concert Hall C-2, Niguliste 3,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 43 30, niguliste@ekm.ee, www.ekm.<br />
ee. Organ music concerts are held here every Saturday<br />
and Sunday at 16:00. For more on this 13th-century Gothic<br />
church, see What to see section. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue. J<br />
Nokia Concert Hall D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel.<br />
(+372) 615 51 11, info@tallinnconcerthall.com, www.<br />
tallinnconcerthall.com. Tallinn now has a world-class<br />
concert hall, complete with a stunning sound system and<br />
high-tech gadgetry. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. JL<br />
Saku Suurhall Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. (+372) 626<br />
11 11/(+372) 660 02 00, sakusuurhall@sakusuurhall.<br />
ee, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Famous as the venue for the<br />
47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat<br />
sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major<br />
sporting events.<br />
Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) F/G-5/6,<br />
Narva mnt. 95, tel. (+372) 611 21 02, info@lauluvaljak.<br />
ee, www.lauluvaljak.ee. The birthplace of Estonia's Singing<br />
Revolution in 1988, the Lauluväljak is made of both a gigantic<br />
outdoor arena and a modern, indoor concert hall.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
13
14 Culture & eVents<br />
Major art museums<br />
Kadriorg Palace - Art Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 37,<br />
tel. (+372) 606 64 00/(+372) 606 64 03, kadriorg@<br />
ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. You could easily say that Peter the<br />
Great's spectacular Northern Baroque palace is a work of<br />
art in and of itself, but the palace is also home to Estonia's<br />
museum of foreign art. Paintings by 16th- 18th-century Dutch,<br />
German, Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century<br />
Russian works make up most of what's on display. <strong>In</strong>triguing<br />
examples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found<br />
here. NB! The gallery itself is closed for extensive renovations<br />
from July through the end of 2012. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50.<br />
Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) €4.80.<br />
Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602 60<br />
00/(+372) 602 61 23, muuseum@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee.<br />
Winning the title 'European Museum of the Year 2008' , Estonia's<br />
largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cuttingedge<br />
facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as<br />
both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia's<br />
past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest<br />
trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex,<br />
built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through January<br />
06, 2013: Geometrical Man. The Group of Estonian Artists<br />
and Art <strong>In</strong>novation between 1920 and 1930. Through January<br />
20, 2013: Fashion and the Cold War. Through December:<br />
IRWIN. Construction of the Context. October 19 - December:<br />
Archaeology and the Future of Estonian Art Scenes. October<br />
24 - December: Avo Keerend and Evi Tihemets. Colour in Estonian<br />
Graphic Art. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to permanent exhibition €4.20,<br />
contemporary art €2.60, all exhibitions €5.50.<br />
Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery (Tallinna Kunstihoone)<br />
D-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 28 18, info@<br />
kunstihoone.ee, www.kunstihoone.ee. Drop into this imposing<br />
1930s-era building on Vabaduse square to find some<br />
of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions<br />
from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall's separate, smaller<br />
gallery (where admission is free) next door at Vabaduse<br />
väljak 6 hosts separate exhibitions. Through October 28:<br />
Jüri Ojaver. October 05 - 28: Tanja Muravskaja and Marina<br />
Napruškina. November 02 - 25: Tanel Veenre. November<br />
03 - December 16: Jaak Soans. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,<br />
Wed 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €2.50. J<br />
Smaller museums/galleries<br />
1Galerii C-2, Rüütli 4, info@1galerii.ee, www.1galerii.<br />
ee. Certainly one of the more ‘high-brow’ galleries in town,<br />
Gallery 1’s main aim is to “sometimes awaken feelings in others<br />
they didn’t even know they had”. Through August 15:<br />
Robert Viola (LUX). Raul Meel (EST). QOpen 14:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 1J<br />
Adamson-Eric Museum C-1/2, Lühike jalg 3, tel.<br />
(+372) 644 58 38, adamson-eric@ekm.ee, www.<br />
ekm.ee. The permanent collection of works by the worldrenowned<br />
artist Adamson-Eric (1902 - 1968) is housed in<br />
a 16th-century in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum<br />
of Estonia. Through November 04: Adamson-Eric and His<br />
Contemporaries. Reflections of the Self in Time. November<br />
10 till Spring 2013: Mare Vint. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €2.50. J<br />
Applied Art Museum (Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)<br />
B-2, Lai 17, tel. (+372) 627 46 00/(+372) 627<br />
46 11, info@etdm.ee, www.etdm.ee. Works of Estonian<br />
Cultural centre<br />
The Solaris Centre D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel.<br />
(372) 615 51 00, info@solaris.ee, www.solaris.ee.<br />
Rising out of the ashes from a former soviet landmark,<br />
this all-in-one entertainment complex comes complete<br />
with a state of the art cinema, concert hall, shopping and<br />
dining facilities. Solaris even sports a decent amount of<br />
plant life, in fact the only thing it doesn’t have is a hotel<br />
and if it did there would be really no reason to leave.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JULEKW<br />
applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by<br />
irregular white walls. Through November 04: Classics. Rein<br />
Mets. Through November 04: Modernisation. Baltic Art,<br />
Architecture and Design in the 1960s-1970s. September<br />
29 - November 04: Early applied glass art. Bright radiance<br />
of grey years: The Tarbeklaas trademark 1940-60. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €3.50. J<br />
City Gallery (Linnagalerii) D-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372)<br />
644 28 18, info@kunstihoone.ee, www.kunstihoone.ee.<br />
A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often boldly<br />
experimental, art exhibitions.October 04 - 28: Leonhard<br />
Lapin. November 01 - 25: Jaan Elken. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,<br />
Wed 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. J<br />
Contemporary Art Museum of Estonia (Kaasaegse<br />
Kunsti Muuseum) G-3, Põhja pst. 35, tel. (+372) 508<br />
45 70, info@ekkm.ee, www.ekkm.ee. Not all modern art<br />
is contemporary and contemporary art is not all modern - or<br />
something like that. Fed up with the fact that the Estonian<br />
caretakers of culture ie. The Ministry of Culture refuses to<br />
see these differences and also refuses to see that these<br />
separate forms of art should have their own separate venues,<br />
a group of rebellious artists took over an abandoned building<br />
and decided to evangelise contemporary art to those that<br />
might listen - or watch, as is often the case with art. Have a<br />
look for yourself to see if any of this actually makes sense.<br />
Through October 07: Corporal Punishment. October 10 -<br />
20: Artishok Biennial. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Open from April through October. E<br />
Design & Architecture Gallery D-3, Pärnu mnt. 6,<br />
tel. (+372) 627 36 30, grynberg.ltd@mail.ee. Changing<br />
exhibition of Estonian product design. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Admission free. J<br />
Draakoni Gallery C-2, Pikk 18, tel. (+372) 646 41 10,<br />
galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex.htm. The<br />
famous Dragon gallery holds small, often strange exhibitions<br />
in its quaint, Old Town shop. Through October 06: Mihkel<br />
Maripuu. October 08 - 20: Anna-Stina Treumund. October 22 -<br />
November 03: Aimar Kristerson. November 05 - 17: Jüri Kass.<br />
November 19 - December 01: Mari Roosvalt. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. J<br />
Fankadelik Gallery C-3, Vana-Viru 6, tel. (+372) 645<br />
50 43, info@fankadelik.com. This tiny, funky shop-galleryhair<br />
salon is dedicated to all things artsy. Displays from various<br />
local artists can be found here. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 17:00. J<br />
Haus Gallery B-3, Uus 17, tel. (+372) 641 94 71/<br />
(+372) 641 10 76, haus@haus.ee, www.haus.ee. A<br />
commercial gallery, Haus is also open to the public and has<br />
an active exhibition schedule. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Buzz to enter. J<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Just a few steps from the Old Town of Tallinn you will<br />
find SOLARIS – the newest and most unique center of<br />
entertainment, shopping and culture.<br />
SOLARIS HAS:<br />
• A variety of leisure and lifestyle shops for all tastes, including Apple,<br />
Dolce Vita, Weplay, Extreme Sport, Naughty Beauty etc.<br />
• Food Court, including a café Komeet with the best view of Tallinn.<br />
• The most innovative food-store in the city.<br />
• The latest 3D multiplex cinema Solaris Kino with its 7 screens.<br />
• 2 screens for classic movies at Cinema Artis.<br />
• Nokia Concert Hall – the best equipped concert hall in Estonia.<br />
Life here is beautiful!<br />
Estonia pst 9, 10143 Tallinn | www.solaris.ee
16 Culture & eVents<br />
Hobusepea Gallery B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372)<br />
627 67 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/<br />
hindex.htm. The Estonian Artists’ Union operates this<br />
cosy, two-storey gallery. Through October 08: Veiko<br />
Klemmer. October 10 - 22: Ott Pilipenko and Mari Prekup.<br />
October 24 - November 05: Helen Melesk. November 07<br />
- 19: Fashion Artists’ Union. November 21 - December<br />
03: Rühmitus Siht. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.<br />
Admission free. J<br />
Kastellaanimaja Gallery H-4, Roheline aas 3, tel.<br />
(+372) 601 31 81, vilde@linnamuuseum.ee, linnamuuseum.ee/vilde/kastellaanimaja-galerii/.<br />
Exhibitions by<br />
local artists in the Eduard Vilde museum. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Tue. Admission €2.<br />
Kullo Children’s Gallery (Kullo Lastegalerii) C-2,<br />
Kuninga 6, tel. (+372) 644 68 73, galerii@kullo.ee,<br />
www.kullo.ee. Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling<br />
house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works<br />
by the coming generation of Estonian artists. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission €0.50. J<br />
Mart Sander’s Art Gallery E-3, Tõnismägi 3, tel.<br />
(+372) 53 03 20 93/(+372) 508 47 57, mart@martsander.com,<br />
www.maaligalerii.ee. Estonian and Central<br />
European art, gallery and shop. QOpen 14:00 - 18:30, Sat<br />
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.<br />
Mikkel Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 28, tel. (+372)<br />
601 58 44, mikkel@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Housed in<br />
the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg<br />
Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum is one of Estonia’s<br />
most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel<br />
donated his vast collection of European, Russian and<br />
Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the<br />
Estonian Art Museum in 1994. Through November 25:<br />
Time of clocks - historical clocks from private collections.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue. Admission €2.50. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and<br />
Mikkel Museum) €4.80.<br />
Museum of Estonian Architecture B-4, Ahtri 2, tel.<br />
(+372) 625 70 07, info@arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, www.<br />
arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Tallinn’s architecture museum is<br />
located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann<br />
Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiousity.<br />
The permanent exhibit on the main floor features architectural<br />
models from the museum’s collection. Temporary exhibitions<br />
are held on the other floors. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Wed<br />
12:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission<br />
to full house €4.<br />
Niguliste Museum - Concert hall C/D-2, Niguliste 3,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 43 30/(+372) 644 99 03, niguliste@<br />
ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. This 13th century Gothic church,<br />
now an affiliate of the Estonian Art Museum, houses a fascinating<br />
collection of medieval art, with altars from the 15th and<br />
16th centuries and a collection of Baroque and Renaissance<br />
chandeliers. Not to be missed is the famous fragment of Bernt<br />
Notke’s 15th-century masterpiece, Dance Macabre. Organ<br />
concerts Sat, Sun 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue. Admission €3.50. J<br />
Tallinn Town Hall (Tallinna Raekoda) C-2, Raekoja<br />
plats 1, tel. (+372) 645 79 00, raekoda@tallinnlv.ee,<br />
veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. Exhibitions are occasionally<br />
held in the basement of Tallinn’s medieval town hall. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From September to June visiting<br />
by appointment. Admission €3. JN<br />
Cinemas<br />
Tallinn’s cinemas are fairly central, and all films except<br />
kids’ films are shown in their original language with Estonian<br />
subtitles. You can always find out what’s playing<br />
by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak English.<br />
5D Cinema H/I-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre),<br />
tel. (+372) 507 46 50, info@5dcinema.ee,<br />
www.5dcinema.ee. An overload for the senses, the<br />
only 5D cinema in Tallinn has moving seats, 3D effects,<br />
scents and even the occasional water misting. We can<br />
only imagine what watching the classic ‘Monster a-Go Go’,<br />
with 4D witch and trans-etheric vision, would do to the<br />
viewer. Perhaps we’ll never know. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00.<br />
Tickets €5 - 6.50. LKW<br />
Artis D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel.<br />
(+372) 663 13 80, info@kino.ee, www.kino.ee. Tallinn’s<br />
two-theatre, art-house cinema has a full schedule<br />
of independent films, Estonian productions, shorts and<br />
kids’ films. Tickets €4.50 - 5.80. Q Show times vary, see<br />
website for details. J<br />
Coca-Cola Plaza G-3, Hobujaama 5, tel. (+372)<br />
1182, info@forumcinemas.ee, www.forumcinemas.<br />
ee. This high-tech, 11-screen super cinema is most<br />
people’s first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Now even<br />
featuring a 3D theatre. Tickets for evening shows cost<br />
€5 - 6.50, 3D costs €7 - 8.<br />
Kinomaja C-3, Uus 3, tel. (+372) 646 40 68,<br />
kinomaja@kinoliit.ee, www.kinomaja.ee. Run by<br />
Estonia’s cinema union, the ‘Cinema House’ concentrates<br />
on the esoteric and obscure. Q See website for show<br />
times. JW<br />
Solaris Cinema D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9, tel.<br />
(+372) 16105, info@solariskino.ee, www.solariskino.ee.<br />
Located in the Solaris Centre, this is the most<br />
state of the art cinema in Tallinn. Tickets for evening<br />
shows cost €4.60 - 6, 3D - €6.20 - 7.50. Q JL<br />
Sõprus D-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 644 19 19,<br />
info@kinosoprus.ee, kinosoprus.ee. Now operating<br />
on a regular basis, this is the kind of place cinemaphiles<br />
hang out at. These art house films are often European<br />
or Estonian productions, but be warned - you may not<br />
be able to see them with English subtitles. Truly for the<br />
more hardcore among cinema viewers. See website for<br />
schedule. Opens one hour before ‘seance’ - not really<br />
sure what that means, but Bela Lugosi might also be in<br />
attendance. Q J<br />
Tallinn's hospitality industry has pretty much reached capacity<br />
and the total number of rooms sits at about 7800.<br />
For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has<br />
never been better, and the room rates are also likely to<br />
drop. Depending on when you book, don't be surprised<br />
if you're able to get a room for below the prices we have<br />
listed in the guide. A fluctuating price system seems to be<br />
the trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include<br />
VAT and breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.<br />
Cream of the crop<br />
Barons C/D-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja 2, tel.<br />
(+372) 699 97 00, fax (+372) 699 97 18, barons@barons.ee,<br />
www.barons.ee. Housed in a gorgeous Old Town<br />
bank building dating back to 1912, this business class beauty<br />
has managed to retain much of its architectural grandeur<br />
both inside and out. From the classy singles to the luxury<br />
suite, all rooms come complete with satellite television and<br />
internet access for those who like to stay in touch. Among the<br />
added bonuses are a bar, restaurant and up-to-the-minute<br />
conference facilities. Q33 rooms (singles €85, doubles €119,<br />
triples €135, suites €199). Extra bed €26, pets €20, parking<br />
€20/24hr. ZJH6UILKDW hhhh<br />
Cru Hotel C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 611 76 00, fax (+372)<br />
641 83 57, cruhotel@cruhotel.eu, www.cruhotel.eu.<br />
Set in a 15th-century house on Old Town's main shopping<br />
street, this intimate, boutique hotel offers the quintessential<br />
Tallinn accommodation experience - wooden beams, curvy<br />
staircases and all. Each of its rooms and suites is a bit different,<br />
but all come complete with antique-style furnishings and<br />
other old-fashioned touches. Its modern bonuses include an<br />
enormous Jacuzzi, two saunas (free in mornings), an Italian<br />
café, a wine cellar and children under 12 stay at no extra<br />
charge. Q15 rooms (singles €100, doubles €130 - 160,<br />
suites €250). Extra bed €25. ZJHGKDW<br />
Merchant's House C-2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. (+372) 697 75<br />
00, fax (+372) 697 75 01, info@merchantshousehotel.<br />
com, www.merchantshousehotel.com. This beautiful structure<br />
is essentially a 14th-century merchant's house turned into<br />
a luxury, boutique-style hotel, so don't be surprised if you get<br />
lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms<br />
and suites has been done up with cool, chic décor, tastefully<br />
fitted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like<br />
Where to stay<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning H Conference facilities<br />
U Facilities for disabled R LAN connection<br />
L Guarded parking F Fitness centre<br />
G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant<br />
J Old Town location D Sauna<br />
C Swimming pool I Fireplace<br />
Z Anti-allergy 6 Pets allowed<br />
O Casino W WiFi connection<br />
hhh Star rating if applicable<br />
plasma TVs, high-speed internet and fluffy bathrobes. You'll<br />
also find a 'relax room', brasserie restaurant, café and an Ice<br />
Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot glasses.<br />
Q37 rooms (singles €99 - 130, doubles €90 - 189, suites €155<br />
- 600). Extra bed €26. PZJRIGKDW hhhh<br />
Radisson BLU Hotel Olümpia H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel.<br />
(+372) 669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, info.olumpia.<br />
tallinn@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/<br />
olumpiahotel-tallinn. Originally built for the 1980 Olympics,<br />
this fully-modernized, 26-storey, downtown tower now belongs<br />
to the Radisson Blu chain. The long list of facilities here includes<br />
a gargantuan conference centre, a fitness centre with a spectacular<br />
view. The rooms won't disappoint either, but for an<br />
unforgettable experience, book the top-floor sauna that faces<br />
Old Town. Q390 rooms (singles €89 - 125, doubles €89 - 135,<br />
triples €175 - 220, suites €165 - 1150, family room €175 - 220).<br />
Extra bed €20. PHRUFLGKDCW hhhh<br />
Radisson BLU Hotel Tallinn D-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel.<br />
(+372) 682 30 00, fax (+372) 682 30 01, info.tallinn@<br />
radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-tallinn. From<br />
the immaculate furnishings to little touches like shoe buffers in<br />
the corridor, Radisson never misses a beat, proving there's<br />
something to be said for painfully strict international standards<br />
of quality. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city<br />
and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a definite business bent<br />
with its 14 conference rooms and office services, but families<br />
will appreciate the fact that kids under 7 stay free. Q280 rooms<br />
(singles €99 - 189, doubles €99 - 189, suites €189 - 1022). Extra<br />
bed €25. PHRUIFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Savoy Boutique Hotell D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19,<br />
tel. (+372) 680 66 88, fax (+372) 680 66 89, savoy@<br />
tallinnhotels.ee, www.tallinnhotels.ee. Every bit as posh<br />
as the name implies, this Old Town establishment is a worthy<br />
addition to the growing boutique hotel market. Along with very<br />
tasteful rooms with old-fashioned touches (antique photos<br />
included), Savoy offers lots of little comforts like bathrobes,<br />
slippers and free local calls. And if you don't have your own<br />
laptop, they'll lend you one. Beautiful lobby café. Q44 rooms<br />
(singles €111 - 165, doubles €121 - 203, suites €251 - 307).<br />
Extra bed €35, pets €16. JH6UIGKW hhhhh<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
17
18 Where to stay Where to stay 19<br />
Schlössle C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77<br />
00, fax (+372) 699 77 77, sch@schlossle-hotels.com,<br />
www.schlossle-hotels.com. The elegance, history and<br />
warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major<br />
part of Schlössle's five-star appeal. Over the past decade<br />
this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of<br />
state, but even if you aren't rock or royalty, the helpful and<br />
friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby,<br />
a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you<br />
to linger and stay just one more night. Q23 rooms (singles<br />
€154 - 176, doubles €174 - 198, suites €284 - 710). Extra bed<br />
€30, pets €32. PJHRUILGKDW hhhhh<br />
St. Petersbourg C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628<br />
65 00, fax (+372) 628 65 65, stp@schlossle-hotels.<br />
com, www.hotelstpetersbourg.com. Aristocrats in the<br />
19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting<br />
Tallinn, likewise 21st-century travellers looking for luxury Old<br />
Town accommodation can find it here at the city's oldest,<br />
continuously-running hotel. Completely renovated to keep<br />
pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with<br />
modern comforts like deluxe art-deco furnishing and plush<br />
bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world<br />
charm. Q27 rooms (singles €80 - 107, doubles €95 - 130,<br />
suites €205 - 292). Extra bed €20, pets €32. H6UI<br />
FLGKDW hhhh<br />
Swissôtel Tallinn H-3, Tornimäe 3, tel. (+372) 624 00<br />
00, fax (+372) 624 00 01, tallinn@swissotel.com, www.<br />
swissotel.com/tallinn. This lavish hotel has bragging rights<br />
as Tallinn's tallest building and needless to say some of roomviews<br />
are fabulous. <strong>In</strong>side you'll find all the things you'd come to<br />
expect from the luxury chain, including conference facilities, a<br />
high-end spa, state-of-the-art technology and a highly trained<br />
staff catering to your every whim. Swissotel is all about the<br />
little extras such as special bathrobes and bedspreads for the<br />
kids, iPod docking stations in the executive rooms and Lavazza<br />
espresso machines in every room. Even if you don't have the<br />
pleasure of staying here, be sure to investigate some relaxing<br />
opportunities at the Pürovel Spa or enjoy a delightful buffet in<br />
Café Swiss. Q238 rooms (singles €100 - 295, doubles €100 -<br />
295, suites €300 - 2295). Extra bed restricted to grand rooms<br />
only €80. PHRUFLGKDCW<br />
Telegraaf C-3, Vene 9, tel. (+372) 600 06 00, fax<br />
(+372) 600 06 01, info@telegraafhotel.com, www.<br />
telegraafhotel.com. This full-service hotel in a restored<br />
19th-century former bank turned communications building<br />
has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style<br />
restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground<br />
parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than<br />
typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to<br />
spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated<br />
with ‘French' post cards'. Q86 rooms (singles €226 - 258,<br />
doubles €246 - 278, suites €445 - 899). Extra bed €50.<br />
PJHRUILGKDCwW hhhhh<br />
Three Sisters Hotel A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372)<br />
630 63 00, fax (+372) 630 63 01, info@threesistershotel.com,<br />
www.threesistershotel.com. This luxury hotel<br />
built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk<br />
tänav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The<br />
top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a<br />
striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs<br />
can be found alongside old-fashioned bathtubs and hidden<br />
staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The library<br />
with fireplace, world-class restaurant and cosy wine cellar<br />
are just icing on the cake. Q23 rooms (singles €188 - 268,<br />
doubles €214 - 294, suites €508 - 946). Extra bed €55, pets<br />
€20. PJHR6UILGKW hhhhh<br />
Upmarket<br />
Baltic Hotel Imperial B/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372) 627<br />
48 00, fax (+372) 627 48 01, imperial@baltichotelgroup.<br />
com, www.imperial.ee. Part of the medieval Old Town wall<br />
runs right through this small, luxury hotel, and designers have<br />
wisely integrated it into the 21st-century interior to preserve the<br />
historical feel of the building. The Imperial's management have<br />
aimed for a four-star level of quality, and with its bright rooms,<br />
beautiful sauna hall and elegant cheese restaurant (Estonia's<br />
only), they got there. The size of the double rooms varies. Be<br />
sure to ask for one overlooking the neighbourhood's picturesque<br />
cobbled streets. Q32 rooms (singles €134, doubles<br />
€160, suites €205 - 390, family room €243). Extra bed €32.<br />
PJHRUILGKDW hhhh<br />
Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru C-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15<br />
00, fax (+372) 669 15 01, hotel@vanawiru.ee, www.vanawiru.ee.<br />
It's hard to imagine that a five-storey hotel with such<br />
a grandiose marble lobby - complete with an elevated walking<br />
bridge and Italian restaurant - could be tucked into this bustling<br />
part of Old Town, but a quick peek at Vana Wiru will remove all<br />
doubt. <strong>In</strong> addition to offering guests an unbeatable location<br />
and pristine rooms, the hotel caters to business travellers with<br />
in-room WIFI connections. Find the main entrance around the<br />
corner off Müürivahe. Q82 rooms (singles €128, doubles €153<br />
- 179, suites €237 - 288). Extra bed €32. JHRUIL<br />
GKDW hhhh<br />
Bern C-3/4, Aia 10, tel. (+372) 680 66 30, bern@tallinnhotels.ee,<br />
www.tallinnhotels.ee. Hotel Bern, which<br />
is tucked into a courtyard that's conveniently across from a<br />
grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swiss-style<br />
hospitality with its friendly and professional staff. Due to size<br />
restrictions the 50-room establishment hasn't got many perks,<br />
but it does have a 24- hour bar, and breakfast is served in their<br />
petite, in-house restaurant. Q50 rooms (singles €48 - 93,<br />
doubles €58 - 104, de Luxe €172). Extra bed €35, pets €16.<br />
PJ6UGKDW hhhh<br />
Hotell Euroopa G-3, Paadi 5, tel. (+372) 669 97 77, fax<br />
(+372) 669 97 95, info@euroopa.ee, www.euroopa.ee.<br />
Located in the port, they offer all the modern conveniences<br />
you'd expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such as your<br />
very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room hotel caters<br />
primarily to the business set, offering 6 conference rooms, wireless<br />
internet throughout the premises and includes a sauna and<br />
fitness centre which are both complimentary for guests. The 41<br />
business rooms also come equipped with balconies that have<br />
views overlooking the bustling port area. Q185 rooms (singles<br />
€65, doubles €85, triples €111, suites €192). Extra bed €26,<br />
pets €20, parking fee for car €10/24hr, motorcycle €5/24hr.<br />
PZH6UFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Meriton Old Town Garden Hotel B-2, Pikk 29/ Lai 24,<br />
tel. (+372) 667 71 11, fax (+372) 667 70 01, reservations@<br />
meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Tallinn's newest<br />
hotel has everything you could possibly want in an Old Town<br />
establishment - including two entrances on entirely different<br />
streets. The hotel blends perfectly together the charms of the old<br />
world with the conveniences we find handy in our modern times.<br />
<strong>In</strong> typical Old Town fashion, no two rooms are exactly the same,<br />
which just adds to the charm. You'll also find the mouth-watering<br />
cakes of Café Mademoiselle on the premises, as well as the<br />
Estonian Dining Room and a pretty nifty public toilet, complete<br />
with an ancient well. Q50 rooms (economy €35 - 90, standard<br />
€50 - 110, Bella Garden €130). PJHKW<br />
Nordic Hotel Forum C-4, Viru väljak 3, tel. (+372) 622<br />
29 00/(+372) 622 29 99, fax (+372) 622 29 01, forum@<br />
nordichotels.eu, www.nordichotels.eu. You certainly won't<br />
be able to miss this stylish, brass-flanked glass structure which<br />
has 137m of cedar trees lining the roof. The hotel's interior is<br />
thoughtfully designed, using natural materials, which ooze warmth<br />
and comfort throughout. The premises are outfitted with the<br />
latest in communication and entertainment technology, including<br />
Skype-enabled rooms. It also boasts a beautiful spa and excellent,<br />
Mediterranean restaurant. The Forum's friendly staff have been<br />
carefully selected to make sure travellers who pass through its<br />
doors are well looked after - and they certainly are. Q267 rooms<br />
(singles €95 - 150, doubles €95 - 150, suites €155 - 210, business<br />
class room €125 - 180, double delux €135 - 190). Extra bed €30,<br />
parking €17/night. PJHUIFLGKDCW hhhh<br />
Old Town Maestro's C/D-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. (+372) 626<br />
20 00, fax (+372) 631 33 33, maestro@maestrohotel.ee,<br />
www.maestrohotel.ee. For those who like to be in the middle<br />
of the action, this six-storey hotel located at the epicentre of<br />
Tallinn's Old Town bar scene is a classy choice. <strong>In</strong> keeping with<br />
the era of the hotel's facade, the décor here was given a subtle<br />
touch of the 1930s (think Agatha Christie's Hercule Poirot). Don't<br />
leave without checking out the picture-postcard view of Toompea<br />
from the top-floor sauna. Q23 rooms (singles €83, doubles €96,<br />
suites €186). Extra bed €24, pets €15. ZJH6GDW<br />
Park <strong>In</strong>n by Radisson Central Tallinn G-3, Narva mnt.<br />
7c, tel. (+372) 669 06 90, fax (+372) 669 06 91, info.<br />
tallinn@rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn.com/hotelcentraltallinn.<br />
This spiffy downtown hotel has a wide range of<br />
rooms and the same helpful services you'd expect from a hotel<br />
in its class. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated<br />
with a modern flair. Children are well catered for in family rooms<br />
and the lobby café, which has an adjacent children's play area.<br />
The hotel also has a beauty salon. Q245 rooms (singles<br />
€39 - 96, doubles €39 - 96, triples €64 - 112, family room<br />
€64 - 96, executive room €64 - 115). Extra bed €20, pets €10.<br />
PH6UIGKDW hhh<br />
Scandic Palace E-2, Vabaduse väljak 3, tel. (+372) 640<br />
72 00, fax (+372) 640 72 99, palace@scandichotels.com,<br />
www.scandichotels.com. For that classic, brass-trimmed,<br />
bell-hopping hotel experience, it's hard to outdo the Scandic<br />
Palace. This old Tallinn standby manages to outclass many newer<br />
arrivals with little touches like wood-paneled elevators, trouser<br />
presses, and a nice café next to the lobby. Ask for a room facing<br />
Old Town, overlooking Vabaduse Square. Q86 rooms (doubles<br />
€53 - 87, triples €179 - 203, suites €179 - 397). Extra bed €25,<br />
pets €12.80. PHR6UFGKDW hhhh<br />
Sokos Hotel Viru C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 93<br />
00, fax (+372) 680 92 36, viru.reservation@sok.fi, www.<br />
sokoshotels.com. Occupying an enviable spot on what's<br />
generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnishmanaged<br />
Sokos Hotel Viru offers an unbeatable combination<br />
of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiffy<br />
rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restaurants and<br />
a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge<br />
Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail<br />
cravings. Rooms are furnished in a colourful, friendly style. Q516<br />
rooms (singles €90 - 175, doubles €110 - 195, suites €240 - 325,<br />
family rooms €130 - 215, double deluxe €150 - 235). Extra bed<br />
€20, pets €10. PJHR6ULGKDW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
20 Where to stay Where to stay 21<br />
St. Barbara E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00<br />
40, fax (+372) 640 00 41, reservations@stbarbara.ee,<br />
www.stbarbara.ee. More affordable than many other centrally<br />
located hotels in its class, the St. Barbara delivers the same<br />
high quality, but without certain extras like a lobby bar and<br />
sauna. The rooms here have been recently 'refreshed' and are<br />
quite comfortable, many featuring high ceilings and enormous<br />
windows. Be sure to ask about the interesting legend surrounding<br />
the saint from which the hotel got its name. Q53 rooms<br />
(singles €45 - 95, doubles €49 - 110, triples €70 - 140, suites<br />
€95 - 170, family room €70 - 140). Extra bed €25, pets €13.<br />
JH6LGKW hhh<br />
Tallink City Hotel G-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 630 08<br />
00, fax (+372) 630 08 10, cityhotel@tallink.ee, www.<br />
tallinkhotels.com. The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no<br />
compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling,<br />
mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility<br />
provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic<br />
restaurant to candies on the pillows. Finnish guests in particular<br />
will appreciate the nightclub and free morning sauna. Rooms are<br />
done up in a bright, sharp, contemporary style, with the higher<br />
priced 'de Luxe' doubles providing a lot more space. Q332<br />
rooms (singles €69, doubles €74, suites €99). Extra bed €25.<br />
PHRUFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Ülemiste I-5, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. (+372) 603 26 00, fax<br />
(+372) 603 26 01, sales@ylemistehotel.ee, www.ylemistehotel.ee.<br />
This brilliantly modern hotel next to Tallinn's quiet airport<br />
has so many services you might not want to leave. Aside from<br />
the fitness centre, two saunas, European-style restaurant and<br />
conference rooms. Despite the airport-side location, it's a fairly<br />
convenient place to stay, since buses leave from the front of the<br />
hotel and bring you into town in about 10 minutes. Q128 rooms<br />
(singles €99 - 115, doubles €115 - 135, suites €170 - 340). Extra<br />
bed €25. PZHRUIFLGKDW hhhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
Athena Hotell Sõpruse tee 9, Viimsi, tel. (+372) 603<br />
59 00, fax (+372) 603 59 01, info@hotellathena.ee,<br />
www.hotellathena.ee. This low-slung structure overlooking<br />
a sports arena is just one of the many new buildings popping<br />
up in the fast-growing Viimsi area, just north of the city limits.<br />
The super-modern lobby hides an old-style brick pub and a<br />
conference room. The rooms are fully equipped and smartly<br />
decorated, and guests can pay to use facilities in the adjacent<br />
sports hall and the Viimsi Spa. Q50 rooms (singles €60,<br />
doubles €65, triples €89, family room €95). Extra bed €16,<br />
pets €24. ZH6UFLGKDW<br />
City Hotel Tallinn G/H-2, Paldiski mnt. 3, tel. (+372)<br />
660 07 00, fax (+372) 661 61 76, info@uniquestay.com,<br />
www.uniquestay.com. <strong>In</strong> what seems to be a new trend in<br />
the city, the Unique Hotel has converted some of their rooms<br />
to a no-frills concept. You can expect the same quality and<br />
modern rooms as before, just without the costly extras, such<br />
as room-cleaning and towel changes. These of course can be<br />
purchased for an additional charge along with other services.<br />
We think it's a great option for those on a budget, who don't<br />
want a 'budget' room. Check-in is right next door at the von<br />
Stackelberg. Q17 rooms (singles €45, doubles €50). Extra<br />
bed €15, pets €10. 6ULGW hh<br />
Economy Hotel B-1, Kopli 2c, tel. (+372) 667 83 00,<br />
fax (+372) 667 83 01, booking@economyhotel.ee, www.<br />
economyhotel.ee. Restoration has brought the stylish, mintcoloured,<br />
1920s look back to the hallways and common areas<br />
of this historic hotel that overlooks the busy train station and<br />
market area. Rooms, by contrast, are completely modern with all<br />
of the amenities a tourist or business traveller would expect. The<br />
colourful, brightly-lit restaurant can be reserved for groups and<br />
there's a pretty decent Mediterranean-style eatery in the same<br />
building. Q39 rooms (singles €32, doubles €55, triples €85,<br />
family room €55 - 95). Extra bed €15. Pets €5. 6LGKW<br />
Go Hotel Shnelli B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372)<br />
631 01 02, fax (+372) 631 01 01, reservations@<br />
gohotels.ee, www.gohotels.ee. This starkly modern,<br />
seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinn's newly revamped<br />
railway station, which happens to have a great location<br />
just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a<br />
simple, no-nonsense style with a slight railroad theme. The<br />
'superior class' rooms on the upper floors have beautiful<br />
views of Toompea hill. Train buffs should book a room in<br />
the slightly cheaper 'standard class' rooms overlooking<br />
the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa. Q124 rooms<br />
(doubles €59 - 79, family rooms €98). Extra bed €21, pets<br />
€13. PJH6ULGKwW<br />
Meriton Old Town Hotel A-3, Lai 49, tel. (+372) 614<br />
13 00, fax (+372) 614 13 11, oldtown@meritonhotels.<br />
com, www.meritonhotels.com. A nice combination of<br />
modern comfort and historic surroundings are what's offered<br />
in this tourist-class hotel at the edge of Old Town. The<br />
main building with its zigzagging corridors dates from the<br />
19th century and houses somewhat small, but cheerfully<br />
decorated guest rooms. More interesting is the lobby, which<br />
Spa hotels<br />
Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation<br />
as well as treatment packages and day spa services.<br />
Prices here are for accommodation only, check their<br />
websites for details on their package deals.<br />
Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park B-3, Aia 18, tel.<br />
(+372) 649 33 00, fax (+372) 649 33 01, kalevspa@<br />
kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. This enormous, stateof-the-art<br />
facility brings Estonia’s spa phenomenon to the<br />
heart of the city. <strong>In</strong> addition to tidy guest rooms, complete<br />
spa packages are available, as are a health and wellness<br />
centre, a fitness centre and a restaurant with a view of<br />
the water park. The park includes three waterslides and a<br />
50m swimming pool, Tallinn’s largest, and along with the<br />
gym and a morning sauna is available free of charge for<br />
hotel guests. <strong>In</strong>quire about the two different types of family<br />
rooms also available. Q100 rooms (singles €66, doubles<br />
€86, suites €155, family rooms €125 - 160). Extra bed<br />
€26, pets €13. TJHR6UFLGKDCW<br />
Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel G-2,<br />
Paldiski mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 667 71 11, hotel@meritonhotels.com,<br />
www.meritonhotels.com. With some<br />
fantastic views onto Toompea, a full-service spa, several<br />
eateries and sprawling conference facilities, this hotel certainly<br />
provides an ‘all-inclusive’ experience for its guests.<br />
The steel and glass structure houses some of the most<br />
state-of-the-art spa facilities in the city, including a salt<br />
chamber, low temperature sauna, heated beds and even<br />
something called a ‘mushroom’ for the kids. The conference<br />
facilities can hold up to 380 attendees and are also<br />
decked out in the latest gadgetry to give presentations<br />
a lasting impression. Q465 rooms (singles €70 - 150,<br />
doubles €80 - 170, suites €280, family room €175, presidential<br />
suite €460). PTHUFLGKDCW<br />
Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel F-3, Sadama<br />
11a, tel. (+372) 630 10 00, fax (+372) 630 10<br />
10, spahotel@tallink.ee, www.tallinkhotels.com.<br />
Gigantic, bare-breasted sirens flanking the doors and<br />
a bright, groovy lobby bar are your first clues that this<br />
place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart<br />
from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest<br />
rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool bar<br />
in the hotel’s central atrium - the high-tech establishment<br />
near the passenger port offers six conference rooms, a<br />
Fidel cigar bar and a beauty salon. Q275 rooms (singles<br />
€79, doubles €84, suites €129, family room €129). Extra<br />
bed €25. PHRULGKDCW hhhh<br />
contains part of the old city wall and the round, outer edge<br />
of the neighbouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the Russian<br />
Dining Room here for some fast and authentic Russian cuisine.<br />
Q41 rooms (singles €90 - 120, doubles €108 - 120).<br />
Extra bed €22. JRUILGKW<br />
Tallink Express A-4, Sadama 9, tel. (+372) 667 87 00,<br />
fax (+372) 667 88 00, expresshotel@tallink.ee, www.<br />
tallinkhotels.com. The smart-looking structure 300m from<br />
the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and<br />
orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access<br />
to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are<br />
treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying<br />
out the hotel's famed soup buffet. Q163 rooms (singles<br />
€42, doubles €42, family room €67). Extra bed €25, pets<br />
€14. HR6ULGKW hh<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
22 Where to stay Where to stay 23<br />
Budget<br />
Although there are loads of hostels around town, the<br />
free-spirited often communal living feel of them is not for<br />
everyone - especially if you are looking for something a<br />
little more private. Here are some alternatives.<br />
Bed & Breakfast Rex H-4, Tartu mnt. 62, tel. (+372)<br />
50 78 650, bbrex@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/allarp3. If a<br />
bed and a shower are all you need, this absolutely-no-frills<br />
place near the bus station will do. Doubles have TVs, while<br />
all other rooms are set up as bunk-style triples, quads, etc.<br />
Each room has its own shower/WC and furniture, while plain,<br />
is new. Group rates are also available. Take tram N2 or 4 to<br />
the Autobussijaam stop. You can get there by bus no 17, 17A<br />
or 23, 23A to Bus Station and walk towards the tram lines<br />
on Tartu mnt. Q14 rooms (singles €13, doubles €22, triples<br />
€38). Breakfast €3.30. ULG<br />
Lilleküla I-2, Luha 18b, tel. (+372) 627 11 22, fax<br />
(+372) 648 13 33, info@lillekulahotel.ee, www.lillekulahotel.ee.<br />
Just a 15-minute walk to Old Town, this newly-built<br />
hotel provides immaculate, cheerful rooms, personal service<br />
and even its own little restaurant. Higher priced rooms have<br />
one large double bed as opposed to two small twins. Take<br />
trams 3 or 4 to the Vineeri stop. Q30 rooms (singles €32 -<br />
39, doubles €45 - 49, triples €55 - 65, family room €55 - 65).<br />
Extra bed €13, pets €13. R6W hh<br />
Poska Villa G-4, Poska 15, tel. (+372) 601 36 01, fax<br />
(+372) 601 37 54, poskavilla@venu.ee, www.hot.ee/<br />
poskavilla. This turn-of-the-century villa located on the edge<br />
of the beautiful Kadriorg park offers up a chance for some<br />
peace and quiet. The rooms are on the small side but very<br />
comfortable and certainly full of colour. Home-made breakfast<br />
is served by friendly staff and the parking, unlike elsewhere<br />
in Tallinn, is free. Q8 rooms (singles €42, doubles €50 - 55,<br />
suites €63). Extra bed €16, pets €16. PH6LGW<br />
Salzburg Pärnu mnt. 555, Laagri, tel. (+372) 650 39 65,<br />
fax (+372) 650 39 00, info@salzburg.ee, www.salzburg.<br />
ee. This hotel, located just past the Tallinn border has a style<br />
that is Austria über alles. Although there are no mountains<br />
or Fräuleins singing in the hills, the rooms are comfortable,<br />
affordable and have everything needed for a good night's rest.<br />
The restaurant offers Austrian-themed dishes involving elk<br />
and wild boar, however if you're not content to eat someone<br />
else's trophy, the hotel will arrange hunting trips for guests.<br />
Q53 rooms (singles €32 - 58, doubles €38 - 68). Extra bed<br />
€15, pets €10, caravan €15. PH6UILGKW<br />
Hostels<br />
Due to the nature of hostels, they seem to come and go<br />
from year to year and new ones are popping up all the time.<br />
Likewise they also close down quite frequently and or change<br />
their names. Although not a complete list, here we have listed<br />
some of the more important and or centrally located ones.<br />
For a complete list checkout www.hostelworld.com.<br />
16 Euro Hostel C-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372) 501 30 46,<br />
info@16eur.ee, www.16eur.ee. If it's price and location you're<br />
after, then this recycled, former hotel turned hostel will probably<br />
suit you just fine. The furnishings are kind of mix and match, but<br />
it's overall quite clean, just don't expect to get a good nights sleep<br />
here on the weekend as it also sits smack dab in the middle of<br />
several bars, a nightclub and a gentlemen's club. We suggest<br />
wearing earplugs and that problem just might go away. Q (singles<br />
€25 - 28, doubles €32 - 38, triples €50 - 56, quads €56 - 64,<br />
dorm bed €10 - 13). Extra bed €16. Breakfast €6. J6DW<br />
Academic Hostel Akadeemia tee 11, tel. (+372) 620<br />
22 75, fax (+372) 620 22 76, info@academichostel.com,<br />
www.academichostel.com. A large hostel 5km from the city<br />
centre situated on the Tallinn University of Technology campus<br />
grounds, offering rooms for one or two persons (kitchen, dining<br />
room and bathroom shared between every two) and all<br />
surrounded by a quiet and peaceful forest. Perks include free<br />
parking, laundry facilities and internet connections in every room.<br />
Take trolleybus N°3 from Vabaduse väljak to the Keemia stop.<br />
Q108 rooms (Twin €27). Extra bed €16, pets €6.50, breakfast<br />
€3. R6ULGW<br />
Euphoria E-2, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. (+372) 58 37 36 02,<br />
euphoria@traveller.ee, euphoria.traveller.ee. This hostelesque<br />
happening, brought to you by the good folks over at the<br />
‘Hostel With No Name', is one of the larger places in town. It's<br />
kind of a unique concept that centres around four apartments<br />
on different floors and a large common room where everyone<br />
can hang out, play the guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit<br />
moves you, maybe even paint your own mural on the wall. Each<br />
floor has its own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath!<br />
Light breakfast included. Q Prices €11 - 24/person. RLW<br />
Flying Kiwi Backpackers C-2, Nunne 1, tel. (+372) 58 21<br />
32 92, info@flyingkiwitallinn.com, www.flyingkiwitallinn.<br />
com. Our research suggests that Kiwis lack the necessary wing<br />
structure to be able to fly. However, this hostel is so conveniently<br />
located you won't need to fly anywhere. The interior is surprisingly<br />
modern and has all of the amenities you'd expect from a hostel<br />
and more - fancy an evening sauna anyone? It offers up dormstyle<br />
rooms as well as more private ones and get this, a 10%<br />
discount on bike rentals from the folks over at City Bike Rentals<br />
& Tours. Q6 rooms (doubles €44, triples €60, dorm room €13,<br />
twin €36). No breakfast. JGDW<br />
Knight House D-2, Rüütli 16, tel. (+372) 55 50 10 01,<br />
ilya@knight-house.eu, www.knight-house.eu. Located<br />
surprisingly enough on 'Knight Street' and in the building that<br />
actually housed the former order of Teutonic Knights, this<br />
establishment is more like an apartment rental place than a<br />
typical backpacker's hostel. They have a stylish common room,<br />
private rooms, a common grill and all sorts of other amenities<br />
too extensive to list. Q (doubles €24 - 27, triples €50, quads<br />
€63, place in dorm €14). W<br />
OldHouse Hostel B-3, Uus 26, tel. (+372) 641 12 81,<br />
fax (+372) 641 14 64, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.<br />
ee. Bright, fluffy rooms make this nicely renovated, Old Town<br />
establishment almost too nice to be called a hostel. Common<br />
areas like the hallways, TV room and guest kitchen are just as<br />
spiffy. For those without a laptop, there's access to an internet<br />
connected computer free of charge. Q Reception open 24hrs.12<br />
rooms (doubles €42, triples €59, quads €76, place in dorm €14).<br />
JRLNGW<br />
Old Town Alur B-2, Lai 20, tel./fax (+372) 646 62 10,<br />
hostel.alur@gmail.com, www.tallinnoldtownhostel.com.<br />
Touted as being the 'biggest' hostel in Old Town, the Alur has<br />
everything you'd want in a hostel plus an awesome courtyard<br />
where you can bbq in the summer - or winter if that's your thing.<br />
They've even got brand-spanking-new showers and organise<br />
loads of activities, some perhaps even involving showers, for<br />
those who get bored fairly quickly. Great place for travellers,<br />
people who like showers, groups of friends and those who<br />
like to shower with friends. Q11 rooms (singles €29, doubles<br />
€45, triples €39, quads €49, place in dorm €11). No breakfast.<br />
JRGW<br />
Old Town Backpackers C-3, Uus 14, tel. (+372) 53 83<br />
50 95, uus14tallinn@hotmail.com. Owners insist it's 'not for<br />
tourists, only for travellers', so put on your best hippy-backpacker<br />
attitude if you plan to stay here. The centrally-located hostel<br />
on Aia is basically ten bunks and some sofas crammed into<br />
two rooms, with a huge guest kitchen, sauna, laundry, internetconnected<br />
computer. Q 10 beds €10 - 12/person. Linen<br />
€1.60. JDW<br />
Red Emperor Hostel C-3, Aia 10 (in the courtyard), tel.<br />
(+372) 608 73 87, redemperorhostel@gmail.com, www.<br />
redemperorhostel.com. This Australian-owned, bar/hostel<br />
is kind of unique in Tallinn and is certainly geared towards the<br />
free-thinking, beard-loving kind of traveller who is all about the<br />
party and free-love - or so we've been led to believe. Probably<br />
not the kind of place you'd want to rest your head if quite and<br />
privacy is what you're looking for - but then again, not everyone<br />
is looking for those things. See website for full details. Q8<br />
rooms (singles €45, doubles €55, triples €59, quads €65, place<br />
in dorm €9 - 16). JW<br />
Tallinn Backpackers B-3, Olevimägi 11-1, tel. (+372)<br />
644 02 98, info@tallinnbackpackers.com, www.tallinnbackpackers.com.<br />
Hands down this hostel is Tallinn's best<br />
for that feeling of international traveller camaraderie. Basically<br />
a collection of open bunk rooms, it's cheap, central and friendly,<br />
and the foreign backpacker who staff it organise video screenings<br />
nightly pub crawls and some funky tours both in and out<br />
of Tallinn. Free sauna, kitchen, computer and WiFi. Laundry for<br />
a fee. Looking to stay in town a little longer? They've got rooms<br />
for that too. Q5 rooms (5 Total rooms ). 34 dorm beds €8/bed.<br />
No breakfast. JRIGW<br />
Tallinn Boutique Hostel C-3, Viru 5-2, tel. (+372) 644<br />
60 50, info@tallinnboutiquehostel.com, www.tallinnboutiquehostel.com.<br />
Tallinn Backpackers' smaller Old Town facility<br />
has the same fun, backpacker-run feel as its main hostel, but<br />
it's built in a former office space where rooms offer more privacy.<br />
Computer, WiFi, kitchen and laundry are available, and guests<br />
are welcome to visit the Olevimägi location to groove with the<br />
folks there as well. Q7 rooms (doubles €34). Extra bed €12.80.<br />
JRGW<br />
The Monk's Bunk E-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 636 39 24,<br />
info@themonksbunk.com, www.themonksbunk.com. The<br />
Monk's Bunk consists of several dorm-style rooms with bunkbeds<br />
to crash on. Certainly a bit more community oriented than<br />
some places, the 'Bunk' does however pride itself in being a<br />
place where you can get some peace and quiet - at least as much<br />
privacy as you can get in a room filled with snoring strangers.<br />
Now in a new location, they also have a smoking room and bar<br />
on the premises. Q Dorm rooms €8 - 12. JRW<br />
Tallinn's hospitality industry has pretty much reached<br />
capacity and the total number of rooms sits at over 7800.<br />
For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has<br />
never been better, and the room rates are also likely to<br />
remain competitive. Outside the high-season, don't be surprised<br />
if you're able to get a room for below the prices we<br />
have listed in the guide. A fluctuating price system seems<br />
to be the trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below<br />
include VAT and breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.<br />
Apartment rental<br />
Short-term apartment rental is a good option for anyone<br />
staying more than a few days - you can often get a beautiful,<br />
Old Town apartment for the same price you'd pay for a<br />
cramped double room in a tourist class hotel. Apartments<br />
come fully outfitted with dishes, towels, etc. Prices are<br />
usually per apartment (not per person) and drop substantially<br />
the longer you stay. The prices we've listed here are<br />
for a single night and do not normally include breakfast<br />
unless stated otherwise. Check the individual apartments'<br />
websites for full details on their rates.<br />
Erel Apartments & Residences H-1, Paldiski mnt.<br />
26a, tel. (+372) 663 16 40/(+372) 524 80 99, fax<br />
(+372) 663 16 41, erel@erel.ee, www.erel.ee. This large,<br />
highly experienced firm manages serviced apartments concentrated<br />
in three Old Town buildings, including one on Town<br />
Hall Square and another in a marvellously restored medieval<br />
house on Rataskaevu. Furnishing in these 2 - 8-person apartments<br />
is mainly Scandinavian and always tasteful. Guests can<br />
stay anywhere from one day to one year, but rates are better<br />
the longer the contract. The company will even pick you up<br />
at the airport. Prior booking by credit card is required. Q 25<br />
apartments: standard class €69 - 149, business class €108<br />
- 249. Extra bed €31. Pets €31. JR6GW<br />
Kullassepa Residence C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel. (+372)<br />
623 20 55/(+372) 53 44 44 64, kullassepa@residence.<br />
ee, www.residence.ee. The fantastic Old Town location is<br />
the main selling point here - the apartments are right next to<br />
Town Hall Square! Furnishings and sizes vary, but most tend<br />
towards an old-fashioned look, and all are fully-equipped,<br />
washing machine included. A computer can also be added<br />
by arrangement, and for an extra charge, breakfast can be<br />
brought up from the restaurant downstairs. Q 8 apartments<br />
€60 - 95. JR6ILDW<br />
Rasastra Apartments, tel./fax (+372) 661 62 91,<br />
rasastra@online.ee, www.bedbreakfast.ee. The same<br />
people who arrange bed and breakfast-style homestays also<br />
offer several centrally located apartments which can be rented<br />
anywhere from a few days to six months. All apartments<br />
are fully equipped with kitchens and TVs. Q 7 apartments<br />
€51 - 160. LNG<br />
Romeo Family Apartments D-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, 4th<br />
floor, apt 38, code 38, tel. (+372) 644 42 55, fax (+372)<br />
660 95 88, info@romeofamily.ee, booking@romeofamily.<br />
ee, www.romeofamily.ee. This family run establishment<br />
offers the same level of quality and personalised service as<br />
many of the luxury hotels in town. Apart from very convenient<br />
(mostly Old Town) locations, each of these 1-4 room apartments<br />
has fully-outfitted kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Some<br />
have internet connections. Most apartments are located<br />
in the same building. If you'd rather just have a room, these<br />
are available as well. Q11 rooms (doubles €35 - 52, triples<br />
€65 - 75, quads €85 - 110, apartments €45 - 110, family<br />
room €58 - 68). Extra bed €16. Breakfast at apartments<br />
€7. JLGW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
24 restaurants<br />
<strong>In</strong> Tallinn it seems they grant a new restaurant licence<br />
every week and sometimes we do miss one, but we've<br />
tried our best to have an accurate list by print time. Also,<br />
be aware that in most cases you'll have to seat yourself,<br />
so don't wait around like a dummy - just grab an available<br />
seat and you'll eventually be brought a menu. <strong>In</strong> pubs,<br />
you'll likely need to order and pay at the bar. Service in the<br />
centre is nearly always English-speaking and foreignlanguage<br />
menus are the rule - although, the words may not<br />
always be spelled correctly. VAT (20%) is always included<br />
and gratuity should never be added to the bill.<br />
African<br />
African Kitchen B-3, Uus 32/34, tel. (+372) 644 25<br />
55, info@africankitchen.ee, www.africankitchen.ee.<br />
This highly funky African-themed establishment is the place<br />
to go for affordable, exotic meals and a trendy, lounge-like<br />
atmosphere. Traditional and contemporary cuisine from the<br />
continent is served in hip, colourful surroundings. Lounge<br />
tables in the main room are a bit low, so reserve a spot in<br />
the cosier ‘Cave Room' for more comfortable dining. Service<br />
slows considerably when crowded. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (€9.60). JLDXSW<br />
American<br />
Baby Back Ribs & BBQ H-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine<br />
Centre), tel. (+372) 600 55 92, booking@babyback.<br />
eekristiine@babyback.ee, www.babyback.ee. You will seriously<br />
question what country you're in once you step into this<br />
authentically American-style ribs joint. Upholstered booths,<br />
bottles of Heinz 57 on the tables and a piped in radio station<br />
from Louisiana make it perhaps more American than any place<br />
in America. The long menu includes pizzas, milkshakes and<br />
burgers, but the steaks and ribs are the stars here. Order<br />
the full rack 'monster' and contemplate why Texans are so<br />
huge. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Also at:<br />
Kallaste Keskus 12, Tabasalu, tel 600 55 62, booking@<br />
babyback.ee. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€10.85). T6ULSW<br />
Mack Bar-B-Que H-4, Tartu mnt. 63, tel. (+372) 601<br />
09 69, table@americanfood.ee, www.americanfood.<br />
ee. <strong>In</strong> terms of American-style atmosphere and service, it's<br />
hard to get any more authentic than Mack. Designers of this<br />
combination sports bar/family-style restaurant went all the<br />
way, with red, vinyl booths, bottles of Heinz catsup, piped-in<br />
80s hits and ‘no smoking' signs in Spanish. There's even<br />
Symbol key<br />
J Old Town location U Facilities for disabled<br />
T Child friendly 6 Pets allowed<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
X Smoking area I Fireplace<br />
L Parking available N Payment in cash only<br />
W WiFi connection<br />
free ice-water! Unfortunately the food quality doesn't really<br />
live up to expectations. The long menu includes nachos,<br />
pizza, burgers and milkshakes, but barbecued meats are the<br />
speciality. If you get stuck, just order a Dr. Pepper. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. Also at: Paldiski<br />
mnt. 102 (Rocca Al Mare Centre), (+372) 665 91 61,<br />
booking@americanfood.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. (€10.85).<br />
T6VXSW<br />
Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina B-3, Pikk 43, tel.<br />
(+372) 631 17 55, texas@texas.ee, www.texas.ee.<br />
Beer ads, steer horns, cactus and rowdy conversation - this<br />
bar screams 'Texas' so loud you might think you've walked<br />
into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the<br />
ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The<br />
long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (Cadillac nachos,<br />
quesadillas, etc) with other things like hot wings, Texas<br />
potato salad and a decent selection of vegetarian items<br />
thrown in. Not all dishes are as authentic as the Alamo, but<br />
enough are to make this a decent destination for homesick<br />
Yanks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (€8).<br />
J6IESW<br />
Australian<br />
The Lost Continent G-4, Narva mnt. 19, tel. (+372)<br />
662 36 65, info@lostcontinent.ee, www.lostcontinent.<br />
ee. During a recent and much-needed update, management<br />
of this Aussie-style pub finally got rid of the inane and predictable<br />
‘Wombat X-ing’ kitsch and turned the place into a<br />
kind of lounge. You can still order ‘Kangaroo stick with fruit<br />
chutney’ if you dare. Most of the menu now caters to more<br />
mainstream tastes, offering fondues and pastas, as well<br />
as some cheap options aimed at students from the nearby<br />
university. Table service doesn’t seem to work, so you’ll have<br />
to join the queue at the bar. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Wed<br />
11:30 - 24:00, Thu 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00.<br />
(€6.70). TEW<br />
Argentinian<br />
Argentiina H-2, Pärnu mnt. 37, tel. (+372) 660<br />
51 77, info@argentiina.ee, www.argentiina.ee.<br />
Believe it or not, they actually played ‘Don’t cry for<br />
me Argentina’ when we were here, but that’s not why<br />
we recommend the place. The truth is it’s actually a<br />
well-established, popular and slightly swank restaurant<br />
where South American cooks grill slabs of steak<br />
and fish right in the centre of the dining room. The<br />
formal-ish look of the place is offset by some very<br />
quirky Mexican-style wall décor, as well as a lovably<br />
kitschy dance show on weekends. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
24:00. (€15). JES<br />
Asian<br />
Asian Aroma H-2, Süda 1, tel. (+372) 627 89 77/<br />
(+372) 53 31 15 63, aa.asianaroma@gmail.com,<br />
www.asianaroma.ee. This fast-food café was originally<br />
billed as pan-Asian, but just about everything on the menu<br />
seems to be Chinese, or at least Chinese-like. The spring<br />
rolls were great, and the sweet and sour fish was, well...<br />
let's say edible, though uninspired. On the plus side, the<br />
service is actually fast and friendly. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(€5.75). VS<br />
Asian Wok & Grill H-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton<br />
Grand Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 51,<br />
hotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com.<br />
Other than the fact that it's pretty tasty food for a decent<br />
price, there's one more bonus - you can eat as much as you<br />
want for that same price! There are a couple of ways to get<br />
your food here. The first way is to load your plate full of hot<br />
and ready Asian cuisine, take it back to your table and dig<br />
in. The second option is to fill your plate full of meats and<br />
vegetables, choose a sauce and have the smiling chef 'wok'<br />
it up for you. Starters, sushi, soups, salad and a dessert<br />
are also included - in case you were worried. Drinks cost<br />
extra and there's also an à la carte menu for those with<br />
little imagination. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00.<br />
(Buffet €25). JUW<br />
Bollywood B-2, Pikk 31, tel. (+372) 644 24 45/<br />
(+372) 56 24 26 07, info@bollywood.ee, www.bollywood.ee.<br />
This slash-<strong>In</strong>dian-Asian place in Tallinn is actually<br />
quite decent and usually fills up in the evening hours. The<br />
name and décor are decidedly <strong>In</strong>dian but they offer a plethora<br />
of Chinese and Thai samplings for those that prefer crispy<br />
or coco-nutty over chutney. As is the norm for the genre,<br />
mains come with rice and can usually feed two - as long<br />
as an appetiser has been ordered. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€10). TJ6VXSW<br />
Chedi B-3, Sulevimägi 1, tel. (+372) 646 16 76,<br />
chedi@chedi.ee, www.chedi.ee. Call it a swank, upscale<br />
restaurant with an Asian menu, or an Asian restaurant done<br />
up to the nines. <strong>In</strong> either case, what you'll get at Chedi is<br />
a sleek, novel dining experience that fuses East Asian and<br />
Western trends. This is where Thai Pike Perch meets lamb<br />
chop in chocolate sauce, and the quality is always top-notch.<br />
The only hiccup here is the service, which can at times be<br />
sluggish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
13:00 - 22:00. (€17). JS<br />
Everest Kathmandu H-3, Liivalaia 19, tel. (+372) 644<br />
20 68, www.kathmandu.ee. Set up like a casual, lunch<br />
café, this nominally Nepalese establishment is a contrast in<br />
styles, meaning the piped-in monks' chanting clashes a bit<br />
with the sexy Fashion TV models strutting on the corner set.<br />
The menu is divided into <strong>In</strong>dian and Chinese sections, and<br />
the food was passable. Be warned that if you opt to try the<br />
chef's own sauce, you'll want to suck on a fire extinguisher.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6). 6VSW<br />
Masala D-4, Maakri 19/21, tel. (+372) 610 84 40,<br />
info@masala.ee, www.masala.ee. Masala, which in Hindi<br />
means a mixture of spices used in cooking, is the kind of<br />
place that's filled with warmth. We're pretty certain that at<br />
least one of the many Asian dishes on offer here will find<br />
a suitable home in your belly. The garlic Naan was perfect<br />
and the crispy lamb was quite succulent. Only one caveat,<br />
if you like it spicy ask for it, as the heat is tuned down a<br />
bit to reflect local preferences. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€13). VESW<br />
restaurants<br />
Asian restaurant<br />
HEALTHY CHOICE!<br />
The food preparation<br />
takes place in the<br />
show kitchen in the middle<br />
of the restaurant.<br />
Paldiski mnt. 4 Tallinn<br />
Buffet 25.00 €<br />
Price does not include drinks.<br />
Open daily 12:00 – 15:00 18:00 – 23:00.<br />
Reservations: +372 6288 153<br />
www.meritonhotels.com<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
25
26 restaurants restaurants 27<br />
Caucasian<br />
Hearty cuisine from Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan<br />
became popular here during Soviet times and continues to<br />
leave its mark on the local culinary scene.<br />
new<br />
Georgian Tavern Tbilisi D-2, Rüütli 18, tel. (+372) 742<br />
28 28. Having opened their first eatery in Tartu and seeing<br />
that people quite enjoyed what they had to offer, they decided<br />
to give Old Town Tallinn a real taste of Georgia as well. The<br />
staff of this family restaurant are very welcoming, as is the<br />
atmosphere. Their kitchen wasn’t quite ready to serve us<br />
when we paid them a visit, but if the food is even half as good<br />
as they say it will be, we suggest you head over there for an<br />
authentic, belly warming experience. Expect freshly prepared<br />
dishes the way they do back home. NB! Set to open at the<br />
end of September, just stroll by to see if they’re open.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. JIW<br />
Must Lammas (Black Sheep) C-3, Sauna 2, tel.<br />
(+372) 644 20 31, restoran@mustlammas.ee, www.<br />
mustlammas.ee. Serving up a chic, gourmet take on<br />
Georgian cuisine - elsewhere a relatively casual affair - Black<br />
Sheep certainly stands out in the herd. Not that anyone’s<br />
complaining. The restaurant’s sharp interior is worthy of a<br />
design catalogue, and the excellent trout with raisins, plums<br />
and estragon we had was far more exciting than anything<br />
you’d find at the average shashlyk (kebab) stand. Rest assured<br />
though that shashlyk and other Georgian favourites are<br />
available here too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.<br />
(€9.60). TJ6S<br />
Chinese<br />
If you’re a big Chinese food fan, unfortunately, Tallinn is not<br />
one of the better places in the Northern Hemisphere to<br />
indulge in your fix. There are however a couple of ‘decent’<br />
places, sadly, none of them are that centrally located.<br />
China <strong>In</strong>n C-3, Viru 9, tel. (+372) 648 45 85, www.<br />
chinainn.ee. Located smack dab in the middle of Viru street,<br />
this 100% Chinese cellar-restaurant has all the makings of a<br />
tourist trap, and has certainly been sliding in that direction<br />
as of late. The food was pretty decent, the last time we ate<br />
here - but some of the dishes are a little on the expensive<br />
side and depending on the time of day, the freshness of<br />
your meal may be questionable. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€18.80). JS<br />
Golden Dragon B-2/3, Pikk 37, tel. (+372) 631 35 06,<br />
golden.dragon@mail.ee, www.goldendragon.ee. A longtime<br />
favourite among Tallinn’s experienced diners, this little<br />
cellar restaurant’s food quality has suffered mixed reviews<br />
as of late. However, we quite liked it the last time we were<br />
here so we’ll let you be the judge. The portions of spring rolls<br />
continue to be big enough to feed you and 1.3 billion of your<br />
closest friends. Be warned though that the service, while<br />
always friendly, can slow to a crawl when things get busy.<br />
Come by for the economical weekday lunch special. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (€9). TJIVS<br />
Kathmandu Hill H-2, Pärnu mnt. 36, tel. (+372) 631<br />
42 12, kathmanduhill@gmail.com, www.kathmanduhill.<br />
ee. Mainly catering to the local lunch crowd, this is a simple,<br />
brick-lined, café-like affair serving mainly Chinese and a bit of<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian cuisine to those coming in off the busy street outside.<br />
Because the food is fairly decent, it’s developed its share of<br />
regulars. If you want spice, be sure to tell the cook. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (€9). VSW<br />
Estonian<br />
Estonian Dining Room A-3, Pikk 29 (in Meriton Old<br />
Town Garden Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 03, garden@<br />
meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com/garden_<br />
gastronomy/. Joining the long list of gastronomic possibilities<br />
to be had at the Meriton hotel chain - the Estonian Dining<br />
Room offers its guests the possibility to sample some local<br />
cuisine for a reasonable price. Whether it be blood sausage,<br />
Baltic herring, kama, kali or some interesting porridges - you’ll<br />
find it here. Cosy atmosphere too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€10). J6W<br />
Kaerajaan C-2, Raekoja plats 17, tel. (+372) 615<br />
54 00, kaerajaan@kaerajaan.ee, www.kaerajaan.ee.<br />
Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonianthemed<br />
restaurant with a modern twist. It consists of a café<br />
on the main floor and a slightly more formal restaurant in the<br />
top floor. You won’t find any of the traditional, national dishes<br />
on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many<br />
Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. Check<br />
out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€11.80). JW<br />
Kuldse Notsu Kőrts C-2, Dunkri 8, tel. (+372) 628 65<br />
67, knk@schlossle-hotels.com, www.notsu.ee. Heaven<br />
for pork-lovers, at the ‘Golden Piglet <strong>In</strong>n’ the cooks even put<br />
bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian restaurant<br />
undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we really liked<br />
the bright, folk-art motif. The menu is much more interesting<br />
than the heavy food however, offering such dishes as the<br />
‘Estonian sausage feast for two’… get your minds out of the<br />
gutter ladies, or the ever popular ‘crisp pork knuckle with<br />
sauerkraut.’ Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of<br />
vegetarian dishes is available for those herbivores out there.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€12.80). JUISW<br />
Leib Resto ja Aed B-3, Uus 31, tel. (+372) 611 90 26/<br />
(+372) 53 49 68 32, info@leibresto.ee, www.leibresto.<br />
ee. Another one of our new favourites, Leib - which means<br />
bread in Estonian, has hit the mark on each of the several occasions<br />
we’ve visited. The service has been stellar, the fresh<br />
and interesting cuisine has certainly pleased the palate and<br />
the atmosphere - is refreshing, for lack of a better term. One<br />
of the owners is always on site and they bend over backwards<br />
to make sure your experience is mention-worthy. Fantastic<br />
home-made bread and prices that won’t leave you broke.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€11). TJIEW<br />
Liisu Juures C-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644<br />
19 83, info@liisujuures.com, www.liisujuures.com. Set<br />
in a historic cellar on Town Hall Square, you’ll find authentic<br />
Estonian food presented in a gourmet fashion at Liisu’s Place.<br />
Choices such as ‘pork knuckle for 2’, served with sweet and<br />
sour red cabbage and braised potatoes are on offer as are<br />
‘frisky sausages’ for the kids, all of which can be enjoyed on<br />
the outdoor summer terrace, weather and season permitting.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€10.25). JIS<br />
Mekk D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. (+372) 680 66<br />
88, info@mekk.ee, www.mekk.ee. For modern Estonian<br />
cuisine done right, make sure to pay a visit to the Savoy<br />
Boutique hotel’s culinary gem that is Mekk. Although the<br />
portions are somewhat dietary, the fare is fresh, prepared<br />
imaginatively and the meals come complete with home-made<br />
artisan bread. The service was pleasantly welcoming, as were<br />
the prices for the overall experience. We highly recommend<br />
the to-die-for desserts, which in our opinion belong under<br />
glass in an art gallery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(€12.80). TJ6USW<br />
Ö B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 50, restoran@<br />
restoran-o.ee, www.restoran-o.ee. Despite being named<br />
for one of Estonia’s hardest-to-pronounce vowels, Ö is well<br />
worth seeking out. The atmosphere of stylish, charcoalcoloured<br />
furniture, with dove-wing chandeliers overhead add<br />
an artistic touch. The equally fashionable menu, prepared<br />
by one of Estonia’s most decorated chefs, is inventive and<br />
modern with emphasis on the use of local ingredients. Here<br />
you can find mouth-watering moose dishes, home-made reductions<br />
and fresh seasonal fish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€22.35). JLSW<br />
Vanaema Juures C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372)<br />
626 90 80, vanaema.juures@mail.ee, vonkrahl.ee/et/<br />
toit/vanaemajuures. True to its name, Grandma’s Place<br />
treats its guests to a warm welcome and a cosy dining room<br />
filled with antiques. Take heart that there’s no sign of the big,<br />
bad wolf here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu.<br />
Elk roast is a regular feature and the lamb with bleu cheese<br />
comes highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea<br />
for Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 18:00. (€9.60). TJS<br />
Wirulane B-3, Pikk 41, tel. (+372) 646 43 11, wirulane@hot.ee,<br />
www.wirulane.ee. Kind of a tourist-trap,<br />
as they only open during the warmer months, Wirulane’s<br />
1930s-style décor suggests a nice romantic location to sip<br />
on a glass of wine while enjoying some home-style Estonian<br />
food. This was not the case when we last ate here. The<br />
overpriced and boring dishes left a ‘bad taste’ in our mouths<br />
and the small portions were lack-lustre and overwhelmed by<br />
seemingly, previously frozen vegetables. Stick to the snacks<br />
and a glass of wine if you do decide to dine here. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (€13.40). J<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
28 restaurants restaurants 29<br />
French<br />
Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44,<br />
bonaparte@bonaparte.ee, www.bonaparte.ee. You'll be<br />
hard pressed to find a more elegant locale for French cuisine.<br />
Set in an amazingly restored 17th-century merchant's house,<br />
Bonaparte is a high-class affair all the way, from the complimentary<br />
elk carpaccio to the wine and cheese cellar. The<br />
portions seem small though - maybe it was the huge plates.<br />
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Wed 20:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (€19). JSW<br />
C'est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48,<br />
info@cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. One of the most<br />
impressive restaurants we've had the pleasure of reviewing<br />
comes in the form of this snazzy cellar venue. From the black<br />
and gold 1920's motif to the friendly service and the heated<br />
floors, C'est La Vie gets top marks. The internationally<br />
infused menu contains just the right amount of Frenchness<br />
and the artfully prepared food is more than magnifique.<br />
We think it's the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or just<br />
a classy start to any evening out. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€13). JESW<br />
Restoran Lusikas C-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 646 30 30,<br />
info@restoranlusikas.ee, www.restoranlusikas.ee. Still<br />
trying to find its feet when we last visited, the atmosphere<br />
and cuisine on offer were decidedly more French than anything<br />
else. The dishes we had were prepared rather well but the<br />
prices were a little lofty and the view from the terrace into a<br />
parking lot and onto garbage containers from the attached<br />
supermarket were a little to be desired. We'll have to revisit<br />
them for next issue to be fair though, and perhaps we'll opt for<br />
an inside table. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€13). JUIBW<br />
Garlic<br />
Balthasar C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372)<br />
627 64 00, balthasar@ag.ee, www.balthasar.ee.<br />
Beautifully-restored dining rooms overlooking Town Hall<br />
Square provide Balthasar the perfect aristocratic setting<br />
for its refined establishment. The speciality of the house<br />
is garlic, and everything that can be made with it. The<br />
number of bulbs next to each menu item indicates the<br />
dent it will put in your evening’s social prospects. Just<br />
when you thought you had enough garlic, a quick look at<br />
the dessert menu reveals …garlic ice cream! Reservations<br />
are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€17).<br />
TJEW<br />
German<br />
Baieri Kelder E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. (+372) 640 00<br />
45, www.baierikelder.ee. All the classic beer-hall elements<br />
are presented in the Hotel St. Barbara's cellar restaurant. It's<br />
got the vaulted stone ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and<br />
the obligatory, outrageously happy, piped-in schlager music.<br />
The brief menu offers things like Bavarian hunter sausages and<br />
Vienna schnitzel. Our pike perch came decently peppery, but<br />
was served with less-than-cohesive potato dumplings. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (€9). TUILXSW<br />
Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, info@<br />
beerhouse.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. <strong>In</strong> keeping with its<br />
beer-drinking theme, the menu at Tallinn's only microbrewery<br />
lists six different kinds of sausages (pizza also available). The<br />
real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and<br />
the unpasteurised, home-made brew, which comes in seven<br />
varieties. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00.<br />
(€10.55). J6EXS<br />
Schnitzel Haus D-2, Rüütli 28/30, tel. (+372) 645<br />
00 59, schnitzelhaus@schnitzelhaus.ee, www.schnitzelhaus.ee.<br />
Accordion-heavy pop hits, wooden beer hall<br />
tables and vaulted ceilings, come together to form this den<br />
of schnitzel. The menu consists mainly of... well - schnitzel<br />
and they will certainly have you yodelling. Just in case you're<br />
not in the mood for a pounded-flat, breaded and fried meal,<br />
they've also got a few other meaty mains to choose from<br />
and a 'Radler' on the drink menu was also a plus. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (€8.30). TJ6ISW<br />
Greek<br />
Artemis Taverna B-3, Pikk 35, tel. (+372) 644 11 14,<br />
info@artemis.ee, www.artemis.ee. Having Greek owners,<br />
one would expect that the quality and price for portion ratio<br />
would be much better - in fact, it was much better a few years<br />
ago, but for some reason recent guests haven’t had the best<br />
experience and we find that sad to say the least. You’ll have<br />
to pay for all the side dishes seperately as well which, in our<br />
books at least, is always a no-no. Being one of the only Greek<br />
establishments in town we would expect more from them.<br />
Probably best to just grab a light bite and an Ouzo to wash away<br />
that ‘been kind of cheated’ feeling away. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (€14.20). JS<br />
Syrtaki Taverna C-1, Piiskopi 1, tel. (+372) 644 60 76,<br />
syrtaki@hot.ee, www.syrtaki.ee/tavern. One of the very<br />
few eating establishments located on Toompea, this little<br />
Greek Tavern serves up hearty, meat and onion-laden dishes<br />
even Zorba could appreciate. Although we’ve had better, expect<br />
to find a plethora of Greek favourites prepared according<br />
to traditional recipes. Be warned though that portions here<br />
are rather large and the meals meant for two could almost<br />
feed an army. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (€9.60). JIS<br />
Gastropub<br />
Clayhills Gastropub C-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641<br />
93 12, clayhills@clayhills.ee, www.clayhills.ee. The<br />
first of its kind in the Baltics, Clayhills Gastropub has raised<br />
the bar high. With executive chef Argo Ots (formerly of<br />
Pegasus) at the kitchen’s helm, the fresh cuisine is more<br />
along the lines of a Michelin Star restaurant than that of a<br />
pub. Fortunately you won’t have to pay Michelin level prices.<br />
The rich interior is heavily garnished with leather and the<br />
cellar is well stocked with quality beers and wines alike.<br />
The service also comes with a smile and the atmosphere<br />
is brimming with warmth. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu<br />
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (€11). J6EW<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Café VS E-2, Pärnu mnt. 28, tel. (+372) 627 26 27, info@<br />
cafevs.ee, www.cafevs.ee. After all these years Cafe VS is<br />
still a popular, cutting-edge bar rather than a traditional <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
restaurant. Nevertheless this is where Tallinn’s expats, <strong>In</strong>dians<br />
included, end up when they crave a good <strong>In</strong>dian meal. The main<br />
courses can be quite large, but they do offer a half-portion not<br />
listed on the menu. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€10.55). USW<br />
Chakra B-3, Bremeni käik 1, tel. (+372) 641 26 15, info@<br />
chakra.ee, www.chakra.ee. If there’s one thing you should<br />
know about Chakra, it’s that the people who envisioned it have<br />
a long and successful history bringing innovation and quality to<br />
the local dining scene. The atmosphere comes complete with<br />
authentic, often naughty, knick-knacks from <strong>In</strong>dia. The food is<br />
prepared with care, using top-notch ingredients and recipes, some<br />
of which only the best chefs from the home country can pull off. <strong>In</strong><br />
short, we think that it probably won’t be the last time we’ll dine here.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (€11.95). JSW<br />
Elevant C-2/3, Vene 5, tel. (+372) 631 31 32, elevant@<br />
elevant.ee, www.elevant.ee. This is an exceptional Old Town<br />
alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful décor from<br />
the entry foyer’s antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse<br />
earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal.<br />
The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the<br />
menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular<br />
attention to the meat selection. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€9.60). TJS<br />
Maharaja C-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. (+372) 644 43 67,<br />
info@maharaja.ee, www.maharaja.ee. Of all the <strong>In</strong>dian restaurants<br />
in Tallinn, this old favourite on Town Hall Square is the<br />
most formal and the most involved - someone even greets you<br />
at the door and fusses over you until you’re seated. The food<br />
here is absolutely amazing, so if you don’t mind the fact that<br />
an order of rice here costs the same as a full meal elsewhere,<br />
it’s a fine choice. Every detail here is authentic, from the large<br />
likeness of Vishnu down to the mango chutney. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. (€13.75). JS<br />
Spice C-2, Mündi 4 / Pikk 14, tel. (+372) 644 18 18,<br />
info@spicerestoran.ee, www.spicerestoran.ee. Looking for<br />
friendly service in Tallinn? It actually does exist at Spice, where<br />
they serve up a smile alongside fresh, flavourful and spicy <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
cuisine. If you can’t handle the heat, you’ll also find a decent<br />
selection of coco-nutty Thai dishes, a handful of European<br />
and some interesting vegetarian offerings. We hear that all the<br />
chefs here hail from <strong>In</strong>dia, so you’re in for a real treat. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:00. (€7.50). JSW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
30 restaurants restaurants 31<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Bossanova C-2, Kinga 1, tel. (+372) 644 65 05, info@<br />
bossanova.ee, www.bossanova.ee. Apparently everybody<br />
in Tallinn is doing sushi now. Sitting right on Town Hall Square,<br />
this is a dark and swank establishment with several menus<br />
offering everything from pizza to... you guessed it - sushi. An<br />
army of staff buzzes about the place helping diners narrow<br />
their choices between calzones and nigiris. We just hope the<br />
sushi chefs won't be unhealthily inspired by the oversized<br />
aquarium and their pet shark named Eve. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (€16).<br />
TJXSW<br />
Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66,<br />
info@chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. If you're lookin' for<br />
the swankiest Speakeasy in town to take your sweetheart or<br />
just a safe place to meet with some 'associates', you'll find<br />
Chicago provides just that. The classy dames who serve you<br />
won't pry into the nature of your 'business' and they'll bring you<br />
a glass of 'Canadian whiskey' or a 'Sidecar' with a smile. The<br />
menu is a 'brothel', chalk full of juicy meats, mouthwatering<br />
pastas and even a nifty selection for the sweet tooth. <strong>In</strong> fact,<br />
pretty much the only thing you won't find here is a deep dish<br />
pizza ...but we'll try not to hold that against them. <strong>In</strong> short, this<br />
joint certainly ain't no gamble. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed,<br />
Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun<br />
14:00 - 24:00. (€14). JEXSW<br />
Clazz C-2, Vana Turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22, clazz@<br />
clazz.ee, www.clazz.ee. Occupying a prime, Old Town location,<br />
Clazz falls somewhere between trendy restaurant and<br />
a plush lounge bar with live music on most nights. Actually,<br />
the sprawling establishment has plenty of room to be both.<br />
The menu offers a medley of international favourites with an<br />
emphasis on jazzy dishes you'd expect to find only in the ‘Dirty<br />
South'. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 04:00. (€11). J6UEW<br />
Cru C-3, Viru 8, tel. (+372) 614 00 85, info@crurestoran.<br />
eu, www.crurestoran.eu. Cru offers up just the same quality<br />
and service that you would expect from Ribe and Platz,<br />
who also belong to the same group. The interior is stylish,<br />
the cuisine creative and the staff are at your beck and call.<br />
Portions tend to be a little smaller than we personally would<br />
like, but perhaps the extra calories aren't needed anyway.<br />
We did however compensate for it with one of the excellent<br />
desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€15). JW<br />
Dominic C-3, Vene 10, tel. (+372) 641 04 00, dominic@<br />
restoran.ee, www.restoran.ee. The historic Dominic has<br />
two different faces - an elegant 'black & white' café in the<br />
front and a luxurious restaurant in the back. The café is a<br />
great place to nibble on a slice of cake while enjoying a rich<br />
espresso or to even indulge in one of the light bites on offer.<br />
For a more formal experience, table cloth napkins and all, the<br />
restaurant might just fit the bill - and cost a few too. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (€13). J6W<br />
Kalle Kusta C-3, Viru 21, tel. (+372) 644 95 27, info@<br />
kallekusta.ee, www.kallekusta.ee. One of the oldest<br />
'tourist traps' in all of Tallinn, somehow we missed listing<br />
them. But if we must be honest, they haven't really been<br />
missed too badly. The quality of the food is on par with most<br />
older pubs around town, but the price for food ratio is a little<br />
skewed with the 'don't-pay-much-attention-to-the-price tourist'<br />
in mind. Not that it was awful, just mediocre and pricey for<br />
what we got. The cellar atmosphere was also a little lacking<br />
and left us feeling - what's the opposite of cosy? Beware of<br />
the sketchy character standing outside trying to tempt you<br />
into dining here. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€10). J6SW<br />
Karl Friedrich C-2, Raekoja plats 5, tel. (+372) 627<br />
24 13. This restaurant overlooking Raekoja Plats serves<br />
up all manner of roated meats in its nicely carpeted, woodpanelled,<br />
second floor dining room. The food here is rather<br />
decent, though the prices seem to have the free-spending<br />
tourist in mind. During the warmer months you'll find a scaled<br />
down menu out on the terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€16.60). TJI<br />
Kuninga C-2, Kuninga 3, tel. (+372) 646 60 08, info@<br />
kuninga.ee, www.kuninga.ee. This 'kingly' café slash<br />
restaurant appears to fill both needs quite nicely. The interior<br />
is a nice blend of antique and contemporary and the cuisine<br />
was also delightfully prepared - portion-wise perhaps more<br />
fitting for a supermodel than a hungry man though - desserts<br />
looked quite tempting though. Unfortunately they think a little<br />
too highly of themselves and it reflects both in the level of<br />
food and service. QOpen 12:00 - 23.00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.<br />
(€18). TJLSW<br />
Magic Restaurant & Club C-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel.<br />
(+372) 646 45 88, info@magic-club.eu, www.magicclub.eu.<br />
The only thing 'magic' about this tourist-trap on<br />
Väike-Karja is that it magically turns from eatery during the<br />
day, to a strip-club at night. The food was pub-like and edible,<br />
but some of the 'ladies' we saw sitting in the window on a<br />
Saturday night didn't seem so appetising. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
05:00. JS<br />
Mannerheim B-4, Mere pst. 8A, tel. (+372) 661 89 20,<br />
info@mannerheim.ee, www.mannerheim.ee. Although<br />
technically an international-style restaurant, Mannerheim,<br />
which takes its name from the famous baron and onetime<br />
Hungarian<br />
Kapten Tenkeš E-2, Pärnu mnt. 30, tel. (+372)<br />
644 56 30, restoran@kaptentenkes.ee, www.kaptentenkes.ee.<br />
An old-time Tallinn favourite, this friendly,<br />
little restaurant sports wooden tables, garlic wreaths and<br />
lots of strange, little doilies, all shining a nostalgic light<br />
on the land of Estonia’s Finno-Ugric cousins. The focus<br />
here is on tasty Hungarian favorites, prepared with your<br />
pocket-book in mind. We quite liked the pork snitzel.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€9). TSW<br />
president of Finland, certainly has a lot of Estonian inspiration<br />
when it comes to cuisine. Under the watchful eyes of<br />
celebrated chef de cuisine Rudolf Visnapuu, timeless classics<br />
are transformed or recreated using only the best local ingredients,<br />
whenever available of course. Considering the quality,<br />
the prices are also quite reasonable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€13). TJ<br />
Mix Fusion B-2, Pikk 33, tel. (+372) 621 77 00,<br />
maksim@mixrestoran.ee, www.mixrestoran.ee. This<br />
café, slash lounge, slash restaurant... is indeed a fusion of<br />
a few different ideas and as multiple-personality as it is, it<br />
seems to cater to whatever it is that anyone might be looking<br />
for be it a coffee and dessert, a full meal, a Stoli cocktail etc.<br />
We're still not sure just what kind of marks to give it but overall<br />
the experience was pleasant enough. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€9.50). J6USW<br />
Old Estonia C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 641 21<br />
83, info@oldestonia.ee, www.oldestonia.ee. Taking full<br />
advantage of its prime Raekoja Plats position with a ceiling to<br />
floor glass front, Old Estonia is perfect for dedicated people<br />
watchers. The simple stylish menu is complimented by an<br />
extensive wine list compiled from wine regions across the<br />
globe. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€16). TJS<br />
Reval Café's Restaurant D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel.<br />
(+372) 641 81 00, reval@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.<br />
ee. Attached to a café of the same name, this is the first fullfledged<br />
restaurant in the popular Reval chain and we have<br />
to admit it's certainly worth a try. The interior is cosy with<br />
an old-worldly feel, and the menu is dominated by a large<br />
selection of rich pastas and a variety of fillets. Our duck was<br />
succulent, however our rosemary potatoes didn't seem to<br />
have much to do with rosemary, perhaps they were prepared<br />
by a woman with the same name and oddly enough, they<br />
cost extra. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€11). TJLXSW<br />
Rumours Restaurant & Lifestyle C-4, Vana-Viru<br />
13/ Aia 4, tel. (+372) 644 10 00/(+372) 55 53 23<br />
02, mibs@mibs.ee, www.rumours.ee. Psssst... have<br />
you heard the rumour? Not only is this a restaurant, it's<br />
also a lifestyle. Eatery by day and lounge by night, Rumours<br />
certainly is trendy and, at least the last time we stopped<br />
by, filled with apparently beautiful people. The food was<br />
quite nicely prepared as well, however, as often happens<br />
with these kind of establishments - we did leave kind of<br />
hungry and lighter in the wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (€15). JIESW<br />
Scandic Palace Restaurant E-2, Palace Hotel, Vabaduse<br />
väljak 3, tel. (+372) 640 73 00, palace@scandichotels.com,<br />
www.scandichotels.com. The airiness and frenetic<br />
lunchtime activity makes the Palace Hotel's restaurant feel like<br />
a busy train-station café at times, but if you happen to be in<br />
the area it's worth stopping by for a bite. The small selection of<br />
heavily Italian influenced mains (pastas, Caesar salad) is filled<br />
out by other items such as burgers and grilled dishes. Stay near<br />
the back if you want it quiet. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€14.50). TJW<br />
Senso H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 631 58 70, senso@<br />
radissonblu.com, www.restoransenso.ee. With loads<br />
more character and cutting-edge décor than your typical<br />
hotel restaurant, Senso pulls in a good number of business<br />
people and other civilians from around town. The huge range<br />
of cuisine on offer includes sandwiches, burgers, pastas,<br />
pizzas and grilled items, all served with a professional (but<br />
not over-starched) manner. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 23:30. (€13). TULSW<br />
— Nordic cuisine and wine bar<br />
Mere pst 6E Tallinn<br />
Phone (372) 56 992 200<br />
www.sfaar.ee<br />
Sfäär C-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 56 99 22 00,<br />
resto@sfaar.ee, www.sfaar.ee. <strong>In</strong> terms of décor, this<br />
eatery/fashion and wine shop is kind of a cross between<br />
an old Soviet-era cafeteria and a stylishly retro second living<br />
room. The 'New Estonian' cuisine with Italian leanings and<br />
the artisan breads certainly had us impressed, as did the<br />
complimentary (before 4pm) cucumber and citrus infused<br />
pitchers of water. We've already been back for seconds.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 24:00. (€8.30).<br />
TLW<br />
Vana Toomas C-2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. (+372) 631<br />
42 27, reserve@vanatoomas.ee, www.vanatoomas.<br />
ee. Named after the famous Town Hall weather vane that<br />
can actually be seen from some of the tables here, this<br />
international-style restaurant/café offers fresh baked goods,<br />
pizzas, salads and other hearty but healthy dishes. While<br />
nothing fancy, the food is quite decent and they even present<br />
respectable and inexpensive breakfast options from<br />
08:30 - 11:30 every day. We dare you to try the chocolate<br />
cake, you may or may not regret it. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00.<br />
(€14). JS<br />
Von Krahli Aed C-2, Rataskaevu 8, tel. (+372) 626<br />
90 88, aed@vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee/toit/<br />
restoranaed. The 'Garden' is a highly chic establishment<br />
with plenty of opportunity to lounge while enjoying a fresh<br />
meal or light snack. The emphasis here is on healthier<br />
choices and you can choose from mains that involve<br />
spelt, hemp seeds and other intriguing additions. They<br />
even mark items on the menu that contain gluten, eggs<br />
and lactose. We thought the duck fillet cooked at a low<br />
temperature with roasted vegetables and Põltsamaa wine<br />
sauce seemed rather interesting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (€6). J<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
32 restaurants restaurants 33<br />
Say cheese!<br />
St. Michael Juusturestoran (St. Michael<br />
Cheese Restaurant) B-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372)<br />
627 48 45/(+372) 627 48 04, restoran@imperial.ee,<br />
www.juusturestoran.ee. Monks and cheese<br />
- always an unbeatable combination. The Imperial Hotel<br />
building was once part of the St. Michael Nunnery, so<br />
naturally waiters in monks’ garb preside over its smart,<br />
medieval style restaurant. Choose from cheesy mains<br />
such as tournados with Roquefort, but be warned though<br />
that they’re on the heavy side. There’s also a cheese-free<br />
menu for the lactose wary. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />
16:00 - 24:00. (€17). TJULESW<br />
Italian<br />
Due, perhaps in part, to the influx of Italian men who<br />
have seemingly migrated to Tallinn because of the rather<br />
endless supply of long-legged blondes, the city has a<br />
plethora eateries in this category. We're not complaining<br />
though, both the food and the blondes are bella.<br />
Basiilik G-3, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel.<br />
(+372) 56 50 99 91, info@basiilik.ee, www.basiilik.<br />
ee. Truly an unexpected find. Though not quite rivaling the<br />
best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant that's in a giant<br />
cinema house, Basilik is surprisingly high-quality. Soups,<br />
pastas and other mains are served by friendly staff in a nicerthan-average<br />
dining room. Crowds ebb and flow according<br />
to the film schedule. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (€7.65). SW<br />
Bocca B-3, Olevimägi 9, tel. (+372) 611 72 90,<br />
bocca@bocca.ee, www.bocca.ee. A smart, slick establishment<br />
where you'd expect to run into super-chic members<br />
of Tallinn's A-list, or maybe a supermodel or two. Bocca<br />
delivers formal, professional service and an inventive array<br />
of pastas and filletos (fillets), all under the watchful eye of<br />
award-winning chef Nicolo Tanda. The attached loungy bar<br />
is a swank place for a post meal cognac. Make reservations<br />
on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 13.00 - 22:00. (€16). J6S<br />
Complemento D-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15 10,<br />
pub@vanawiru.ee, www.vanawiru.ee. Once you get over<br />
the location - in the lobby of the Baltic Vana Wiru Hotel -<br />
you'll be surprised by the wonderful quality-to-price ratio<br />
here. A small selection of delicious fettucine and ravioli is<br />
complimented by a range of 'roasts', all served with hot<br />
rolls and stiff formality. We found the food to be quite good.<br />
One hint: make sure you're seated to the left as you come<br />
in or you'll be given a pub menu. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€7). TJUL<br />
Controvento C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. (+372)<br />
644 04 70, info@controvento.ee, www.controvento.<br />
ee. Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian<br />
and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite<br />
of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food<br />
here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef<br />
dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine.<br />
It's featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure to make<br />
reservations. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (€13). JI<br />
Fellini C-2, Kinga 1 (Raekoja plats), tel. (+372) 631<br />
47 75, info@fellini.ee, www.fellini.ee. Distinguished by<br />
its location above Town Hall Square (definitely ask for a<br />
window table!), Fellini offers pastas, meat and fish dishes<br />
in a subdued ambience that skirts the edge of formality.<br />
Live piano music two nights a week adds a romantic<br />
touch. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.<br />
(€16). TJESW<br />
Gianni G-3, Jőe 4a, tel. (+372) 626 36 84, info@gianni.<br />
ee, www.gianni.ee. Think candlelight, champagne buckets<br />
and soft, swank modernity. A sophisticated, Italian restaurant<br />
like Gianni could pass muster anywhere in the world<br />
- this one just happens to be in Tallinn, off Narva mnt. in the<br />
direction of the port. Our ricotta-filled ravioli was expertlyprepared.<br />
Those looking for a less involved experience<br />
can head to the attached Gianni Café, open 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€20). 6SW<br />
Il Gioco delle Perle di Vetro (Klaaspärlimäng) C-2,<br />
Kullasepa 4, tel. (+372) 59 19 72 02, info@ilgioco.<br />
ee, www.ilgioco.ee. The idea behind this 'Italian' place is<br />
simple - to offer good, but simple cuisine for people who like<br />
to relax and enjoy life. The atmosphere is stylish but equally<br />
relaxed and the friendly staff are also quite happy to make<br />
sure you feel at home. As of recently though, they seem to be<br />
a litle more imterested in your money than in your experience.<br />
Still not a bad spot though for a light bite or a cold beverage.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also at: H-2, Pärnu mnt. 32, 59<br />
19 72 02. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu - Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€9). JS<br />
Kärme Küülik D-2, Harju 7, tel. (+372) 699 96 80,<br />
info@kyylik.ee, www.kyylik.ee. Estonian for 'Speedy<br />
Hare' the service at this 'Italian' restaurant was certainly<br />
fairly speedy and friendly to say the least. The atmosphere<br />
was also quite cosy and emanated a certain warmth. The<br />
food on the other hand fell short of excellent. Our pizza was<br />
raw and even after it had been remade came back soggy<br />
and slightly raw. The advertised prosciutto was also nothing<br />
more than ham and not the Parma variety. They did<br />
apologise however and promised to improve. Overall not a<br />
bad place, but there are so many authentic Italian eateries<br />
in Old Town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€8). JSW<br />
La Bottega C-3, Vene 4, tel. (+372) 627 77 33,<br />
info@labottega.ee, www.labottega.ee. Dreamt up by<br />
the creative minds who brought you the likes of Bocca, Ö,<br />
Chedi and a host of other stylish eateries, the Bottega is<br />
certainly just as 'sparkling'. <strong>In</strong> fact, this restaurant is styled<br />
just like an upscale Italian 'shop' with shelves of wine and<br />
other delicacies stacked all the way to the very high ceiling.<br />
The cuisine is equally fresh and the service was not disappointing.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
13:00 - 22:00. (€13). J6S<br />
Below you’ll find a list of venues that specialise in<br />
pizza, however, if you’re looking for a ‘special’ pizza<br />
you may visit some of the Italian restaurants in town,<br />
which usually make an even better pie.<br />
Attimo H-6, Peterburi tee 49, tel. (+372) 605 24<br />
70, paolo@topmodels.ee, www.attimo.ee. Despite<br />
its far-flung location out on the Peterburi highway, this<br />
authentic Italian restaurant has become known for its<br />
fantastic pizzas, cooked in a wood-fired oven. They<br />
also have a wide selection of other Italian favorites<br />
including to die for fresh pastas. Convenient to the Hotel<br />
Susi. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(€4.80). TUS<br />
Peetri Pizza B-4, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 661 61<br />
81, pizzameistrid@hot.ee, www.peetripizza.ee. A<br />
local favourite, Peetri offers pizzas that we find - well,<br />
passable. Apart from this fairly simple café, it has various<br />
branches and stands all over town just in case you need<br />
that cheesy fix. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -<br />
22:00. (€5). JS<br />
Pizza Americana D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372)<br />
644 88 37, merje@americana.ee, www.americana.<br />
ee. Try any of the 60 varieties of thick tasty pizza at this<br />
little corner pizzeria and you’ll be immobilised for days.<br />
Possibly the longest running pizzeria in Tallinn, they do<br />
make a pretty decent ‘pie’. But if you order your pizza by<br />
phone, you might have to put up a fight to eat it onsite.<br />
Lunch specials for €5.45 and €8.65. Delivery €4.50.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. TJLVS<br />
Pizza Grande C/D-2/3, Väike-Karja 6, tel. (+372)<br />
641 87 18, info@pizzagrande.ee, www.pizzagrande.<br />
ee. Grande’s signboard proudly displays the flag of that<br />
great pizza-making nation - Norway. Huh? Anyhow, the<br />
pizza in this cellar café is fairly tasty, and comes in three<br />
sizes. Be warned though that the large is more like an<br />
extra-large. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6.40). JS<br />
Tiina Pizza H-3, Liivalaia 27, tel. (+372) 646 75<br />
05, tiinapizza@hot.ee, www.tiinapizza.ee. Although<br />
this little place is a bit far from the centre, we think the<br />
pizza is worth the hike. The dining area is comfortable<br />
and even has an aquarium. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Also at: Mustamäe tee 39, tel.<br />
672 72 12. Open 10:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00.<br />
(€6). VSW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
Pizza
34 restaurants restaurants 35<br />
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Bistroo Mary G-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton Grand<br />
Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 50,<br />
hotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com.<br />
One of several eateries at the sparkling Meriton Conference<br />
and Spa Hotel, Bistroo Mary is simple yet elegant. The<br />
international cuisine is all fresh, delightfully prepared and<br />
the desserts - to die for. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. Buffet lunch €20. UW<br />
Express Café Soup Gallery A-4, Sadama 9, tel.<br />
(+372) 667 87 00, expresshotel@tallink.ee, www.<br />
tallinkhotels.com. On a cold day it’s hard to go past an<br />
all you can eat soup buffet. There are always at least six<br />
tasty soups to choose from, so take your time and enjoy. If<br />
the soup doesn’t fill you up, pig out on the bread selection,<br />
which is included in the set price. QOpen 11:30 - 21:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (€4.15). USW<br />
Turg C-2, Mündi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, reserve@<br />
turg.ee, www.turg.ee. Turg’s hearty buffet is a hidden<br />
gem, tending towards the Eastern European style, and the<br />
people in the kitchen really seem to know what they’re doing.<br />
Servings cost €1 per 100g, coffee and water are included.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Lunch buffet 12:00 - 15.00. JS<br />
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www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Limoncello C-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 682 58 67, info@<br />
limoncello.ee, www.limoncello.ee. Fresh, elegant and delicious<br />
are just three words that describe this revitalised eatery on Vene<br />
street. The ingredients that go into the cuisine combine the best<br />
locally available items with certain special touches from Italy. There<br />
are a variety of exceptional wines on hand and, as the name would<br />
suggest, enough Limoncello and inspired creations to go around.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (€9.60). JSW<br />
Milano Kohvik C-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 660 15 11,<br />
milano.kohvik@gmail.com. This 'café' replaces another Italian<br />
place but you won't find it a whole lot different from the previous<br />
establishment. They offer a good selection of Italian cuisine,<br />
although mostly on the lighter side, some pretty decent wines,<br />
bruchettas, cured meats and even some excellent Gelato. We tried<br />
to grab a bite here late on Friday night though and they said they<br />
were closing up - so much for honesty in opening hours. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. J6<br />
Pulcinella C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 56 22 96 91, info@<br />
pulcinella.ee, www.pulcinella.ee. Certainly one of the few actual<br />
delights we've had the pleasure of reviewing as of late, this very<br />
authentic, Neapolitan cellar-restaurant pulls all the stops to give<br />
you the complete experience. From the native chefs and owner<br />
to the sprawling miniature scene complete with running water,<br />
we quite enjoyed the ambiance. The cuisine was also delightful<br />
and our pizza one of the best we've had in Tallinn. There are so<br />
many layers to explore at Pulcinella and we look forward to going<br />
back to discover them all. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (€19). JS<br />
Trattoria Massimo H-3, Maakri 25, tel. (+372) 55 62<br />
06 23, massimo@trattoria.ee, www.trattoria.ee. Fantastic<br />
interior, pretty good service and some interesting menu items give<br />
Massimo an overall good grade. They are however somewhat<br />
lacking when it comes value for money on certain dishes as well<br />
as quality control in the kitchen. Hopefully they'll iron out the kinks<br />
in order to bring themselves up to top-notch. Great daily offers<br />
and some excellent live music on weekends. QOpen , Mon, Tue<br />
12:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€12). E<br />
Vapiano B-3, Hobujaama 10, tel. (+372) 682 90 10, foorum@vapiano.ee,<br />
www.vapiano.ee. Vapiano is a European<br />
chain of self-service, market concept restaurants where the<br />
tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you<br />
arrive at the door you're greeted and given a plastic card, then<br />
proceed to the area of your choice to place your order (pasta,<br />
salad/antipasti or pizza) and the items are charged to the card.<br />
The majority of mouth-watering food items and fresh, that's right<br />
- fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn't take<br />
too long either, but you'll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks<br />
when your pie is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable<br />
and the food - bella! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Also at: D/E-3/4 Estonia pst.<br />
9 (Solaris Centre), solaris@vapiano.ee, tel. 628 59 99. Open<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (€6). JUW<br />
Japanese<br />
Sakura Ramen & Sushi bar E-3, Sakala 20, tel. (+372)<br />
648 44 77, info@restoransakura.ee, www.restoransakura.<br />
ee. This reincarnation of 'Sakura' was overall quite satisfactory.<br />
Although we did not see anyone working here of Japanese ancestry,<br />
the chefs that currently staff it probably learned a thing<br />
or two from the former head chef from the island of Nippon. You<br />
can find all manner of sashimi, nigiri, maki as well as some hot<br />
Japanese specialities to round it all out. We quite liked everything<br />
we had and the service, at least on that day, was efficient and<br />
came with a smile. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€5.40). T6LVSW<br />
Silk C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 648 46 25, silk@silk.ee,<br />
www.silk.ee. Just off the square, this sleek and trendy sushi<br />
spot has made a big splash with those who are willing to spend.<br />
All varieties are available - maki sushi, baked sushi, spicy sushi,<br />
etc. Eight-piece maki dishes generally run €1.60 - 6.07, while larger<br />
assortments go from €14.70 - 31.30. Other Japanese dishes are<br />
also available in the tasteful, black-lined restaurant. You can even<br />
order sushi online and have it delivered to your hotel. See www.silk.<br />
ee for more details. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 15, tel. 661 60 99. Open 11:00 -<br />
22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (€8.95). JSW<br />
Sushi is currently quite popular in Tallinn these days<br />
and the number of places that offer the Japanese<br />
street food have sky-rocketed. Here is a list of just<br />
some of the many places around town offering sushi<br />
these days.<br />
Oishii H-3, Rävala pst. 5, tel. (+372) 648 14 17. ‘You<br />
spin me right round baby right round’... okay, we’ll stop<br />
there. This fast-food sushi place is the only one of its kind<br />
in the city and even though the chefs aren’t from Japan,<br />
or Korea, the quality was actually quite decent. The items<br />
are all laid-out on a conveyor belt or kaiten, the plates are<br />
colour-coded for price and that’s pretty much it. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€1-3 per plate). S<br />
Silk Sushi Bar C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, (first<br />
floor), tel. (+372) 610 15 81, info@silk.ee, www.silk.<br />
ee. The newest addition to the Silk sushi family is located<br />
conveniently in a shopping centre. Eight-piece maki run<br />
€1.90 - 12.45, nigiri €1.90 - 3.85, and combos range €14<br />
- 31.30. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. JUSW<br />
Sushi Cat H-3, Roosikrantsi 16, tel. (+372) 682 52<br />
33, info@sushicat.ee, www.sushicat.ee. The weird<br />
and wonderful world of Japanese pop culture roars at<br />
Sushi Cat, a bright, upbeat café where the décor, and even<br />
the waitresses, are done up like naughty/sexy manga<br />
characters. Settle into a pink seat and watch the bewildering<br />
music videos. It’s far more casual and affordable than<br />
its rivals - the sushi comes in sets ranging from ‘kitten’<br />
(€3.90) to ‘lion’ (€12.80), all of which include green tea<br />
and miso soup. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. T6VSW<br />
Zebra Café G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) 610 92 30,<br />
info@zebracafe.ee, www.zebracafe.ee. A little on the<br />
pricey end of the chopstick but very professionally prepared,<br />
this trendy lounge restaurant offers up eight-piece maki for<br />
€6.70 - 15, nigiri €1.90 - 4.15 and combos €19.80 - 35.45.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. VS<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
Sushi
36 restaurants restaurants 37<br />
Meaty choices<br />
Caravan H-3, Maakri 19/21, upstairs, tel. (+372)<br />
653 31 99/(+372) 507 63 57, info@caravangrill.ee,<br />
www.caravangrill.ee. Imagine a huge, mirrored ball and<br />
a keyboardist playing a deafening rendition of Elton John’s<br />
‘Nikita’ to an empty room. Otherwise this might be a worthy<br />
place, with date palms adding a quasi-Egyptian touch. The<br />
food at the self-proclaimed ‘grill house’ is a cut above the<br />
pub-style average. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -<br />
02:00. (€9.90). ES<br />
Goodwin Steakhouse C-3, Viru 22, tel. (+372) 661<br />
55 18, info@steak.ee, www.steak.ee. Goodwin has tried<br />
hard to be the best steakhouse in Tallinn and it probably is,<br />
even though it’s really the only one. The interior is rich and<br />
woody, the service is efficient and the imported cuts of beef<br />
are excellent. If a full-on beef-fest is a little too heavy, you<br />
could always drop by during the week for their business lunch<br />
specials, but let’s be honest, is a big slab of beef ever ‘too<br />
much’. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€19). JS<br />
Grillhaus Daube D-2, Rüütli 11, tel. (+372) 645 55 31,<br />
daube@daube.ee, www.daube.ee. A huge step up from<br />
the typical throw-the-pork-on-the-fire grill house, Daube is a<br />
roomy, two-floor affair decorated in a warm style that’s the<br />
very definition of ‘smart casual’. Expect smiling service and<br />
happy tastebuds. Find it in a nicely redone little house just<br />
off Harju street. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€11.20). JIS<br />
Kuluaar C-3, Aia 2, tel. (+372) 631 35 07. The sign<br />
outside offering ‘pippuripihvi + olut’ (Finnish for ‘peppersteak<br />
and beer’) tells you all you need to know about Kuluaar’s target<br />
market. This modern - and earily spartan - cellar venue cooks<br />
up a small selection of typical meat and fish dishes. Service<br />
is fast and food is actually pretty good, but if you do decide<br />
to eat here we suggest you do so during the patio season.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (€9.60). T6ISW<br />
Madissoni Grill & Bar D-4, Rävala pst. 3 (Radisson<br />
Blu), tel. (+372) 682 34 22, info@madissoni.ee, www.<br />
radissonblu.com/hotel-tallinn/dining/madissoni. The<br />
name rhymes with Radisson, as in Radisson Blu, the towering<br />
hotel to which this two-storey grill-bar is attached. Gigantic<br />
windows, slick design and TVs tuned to satellite channels give<br />
it that familiar international feel. <strong>In</strong> addition to pricier items<br />
from the grill, the menu includes a club sandwich and a bacon<br />
cheeseburger. On weekdays it also works as a breakfast café.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (€12.80). T6ULSW<br />
Munga Kelder C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 46 14,<br />
mungakelder@gmail.com, www.mungakelder.ee. Overtly<br />
geared toward tourists, the Monk’s Cellar is essentially a<br />
basement bar turned upscale by the clever use of table linen<br />
and glasses. Meat and fish dishes are served up along with<br />
awful, saxophone versions of 70s hits. The salmon in foil was<br />
mediocre and the service indifferent. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€11.80). JI<br />
Oliver C-3, Viru 3, tel. (+372) 630 78 98/(+372) 53 47<br />
47 41, info@oliver.ee, www.oliver.ee. A diligent, carved<br />
wooden waiter spends all day long on Viru tänav trying to entice<br />
people into this cellar restaurant, where meaty items like<br />
entrecote and steak dominate the menu. Other choices such<br />
as a vegetable wok are available to the less protein inclined.<br />
We’ve heard a few good reviews about the food and service<br />
as of late and the kids play area and eight-page children’s<br />
menu certainly make this a good stop for families. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. (€16). TJUIESW<br />
Revalia Grill House C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372)<br />
641 21 83, info@restaurantrevalia.ee, www.restaurantrevalia.ee.<br />
With its enviable location right on Old Town’s main<br />
square, Revalia is never wanting for customers. The interior<br />
décor makes it look a bit like an art shop, but there’s no<br />
mistaking the menu - tenderloin steaks and other grill items<br />
of the type that are popular around this part of Europe. Crepes<br />
available too. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.<br />
(€16). TJUS<br />
Steakhouse Liivi C-3, Viru väljak 2 (Metro Plaza), tel.<br />
(+372) 661 61 78/(+372) 661 62 79, info@steakhouse.<br />
ee, www.steakhouse.ee. Even though the location has<br />
changed we have been assured that their overall level of<br />
service, atmosphere and menu haven’t - which could be either<br />
a good or a bad thing depending on what you’re looking for.<br />
The food, which reminded us more of a glorified pub meal is<br />
nothing fancy, nevertheless our steak was decent. Expect<br />
every possible sauce known to man, often containing peppercorns,<br />
slathered over a cut of beef. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€17). TUXSW<br />
Tommi Grill Metro C-4, Viru väljak 2 (Metro Plaza),<br />
tel. (+372) 662 20 99, tommigrill@gmail.com, www.<br />
tommigrill.ee. This oddly located grill actually surprised<br />
us - and in a good way. Although we had to order at the bar,<br />
service was snappy, of the friendly variety and the food was<br />
overall to our liking. We suggest you stick with the grilled meat<br />
choices though as it seems to be what they do best. Keep in<br />
mind that they can get busy during lunch hour. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 02:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€9). JS<br />
Medieval<br />
Maikrahv C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372) 631 42<br />
27/(+372) 55 51 45 17, reserve@maikrahv.ee, www.<br />
maikrahv.ee. Named for the ‘May Count’ of Tallinn’s medieval<br />
days of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under Town<br />
Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the while providing a<br />
decidedly modern and down-to-earth dining experience that<br />
won’t bust your budget. The menu is international, dominated<br />
by fillets with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure.<br />
Delicately prepared food and professional service made the<br />
experience come off without a hitch. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€14.40). TJES<br />
Olde Hansa C-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20,<br />
reserve@oldehansa.ee, www.oldehansa.ee. Many frequent<br />
travellers would say that you haven’t really been to Tallinn unless<br />
you’ve visited Olde Hansa. This Mecca of mediaevalism in the<br />
heart of Old Town doesn’t just serve historically authentic fare<br />
made from carefully-researched recipes, it provides guests with a<br />
whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and<br />
waitresses in period costume and medieval background music.<br />
Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the<br />
week. Make sure to check out Olde Hansa’s Waggehus located<br />
just around the corner at Vanaturu Kael 8. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€13). J6UIE<br />
Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372) 646 68 00, peppersack@peppersack.ee,<br />
www.peppersack.ee. Peppersack<br />
makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home -<br />
both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back<br />
exude comfy medieval-ness. The menu is European-based and<br />
fun-loving, with clever choices like Lady Margareta’s weakness<br />
(chicken fillet) and Mansion Lord’s contemplation (duck fillet).<br />
The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. Every day at 20:00 there’s<br />
a theatrical sword fight on the staircase, on Fridays and Saturdays<br />
followed by Oriental dancing. Great Terrace in the summer.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€16.85). TJUW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
38 restaurants restaurants 39<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Admiral G-3, Lootsi 15, tel. (+372) 662 37 77, admiral@estpak.ee,<br />
www.aurulaev-admiral.ee. A meal at this<br />
smart restaurant built into an old steam ship, has to be one<br />
of the most unforgettable dining experiences in town. The<br />
service and atmosphere here harken back to times when<br />
a luxury sea voyage was the height of class. You're also<br />
encouraged to check out the multitude of old photos, model<br />
ships and seafaring memorabilia that grace the interior. The<br />
impressive view of Tallinn harbour through the portholes is<br />
unquestionably 100% Estonian, but the menu here is actually<br />
more Mediterranean and prepared by a French chef. If that<br />
weren't enough you'll also be treated to a complimentary shot<br />
of Admiral's pepper vodka with your meal. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
23:00. (€12.80). TLXS<br />
Alter Ego B-4, Roseni 8 (Rotermanni Quarter), tel.<br />
(+372) 54 56 03 39, info@alterego.ee, www.alterego.<br />
ee. One of the most delightful culinary experiences we've<br />
had in some time comes in the form of this heavily Spanishinfluenced,<br />
Mediterranean-style restaurant located in the<br />
fashionable Rotermanni Quarter. The owner is a recent<br />
Spanish arrival with roots in the wine industry and he certainly<br />
knows how to lavish his creativity and highly tuned palate into<br />
producing top-notch cuisine. Needless to say, the wine selection<br />
is immense and the dishes are mouth-watering. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (€12). J6UW<br />
Latin American<br />
Cubanita G-3, Narva mnt. 5, tel. (+372) 664 04 22,<br />
info@cubanita.ee, www.cubanita.ee. Given its size<br />
and snazzy decor you would expect this restaurant/café/<br />
lounge to provide one with a culinary experience worth<br />
telling friends about - it does not. Where it does shine<br />
though is in the nightlife genre. They have an extensive<br />
range of cocktails, Cuban and otherwise, some great<br />
Latin-oriented live music from Thursdays to Saturdays<br />
and some decent appetisers to go with your drinks. Be<br />
sure to check their website for performance schedules.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 00:00. 1st floor Deli&Café open 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
(€7). EXSW<br />
Korean<br />
Ariran G-1, Telliskivi 35, tel. (+372) 673 39 92,<br />
info@ariran.eu, www.ariran.eu. This Korean place<br />
might not be your first choice given it’s awkward<br />
location on the way to Kopli - however, it has been a<br />
local favourite for years and the dishes are prepared<br />
rather authentically. The inner décor, as would be<br />
expected, is delightfully tacky but we quite enjoyed<br />
our overall experience. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€6.50).<br />
UIVS<br />
Gotsu I-2, Pärnu mnt. 62a, tel. (+372) 614 00<br />
22, info@gotsu.ee, www.gotsu.ee. This little cellar<br />
place is a small hike from the centre, but for an authentic<br />
Korean experience it’s pretty much your only<br />
bet in Tallinn. Besides the main eating area they also<br />
have a traditional Korean dining room where guests<br />
are asked to remove their shoes when entering, (clean<br />
socks and fresh smelling feet would be highly recommended).<br />
Here you’ll be able to enjoy their succulent<br />
dumplings while on your knees. Dishes tend to be on<br />
the spicy side so please make your preference known<br />
when ordering. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 13:00 -<br />
21:00. Closed Sun. (€5.60). 6VSW<br />
Gusto B-1, Kopli 2c, tel. (+372) 53 04 24 84, gusto@<br />
gusto.ee, www.gusto.ee. We must admit that we were<br />
quite surprised with the level of service and quality of food<br />
when we reviewed this slightly off-the-beaten-track restaurant<br />
on the other side of the train station. We went into<br />
reviewing it with some misconceptions, but were happily,<br />
not disappointed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue 12:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sun. (€8.70).<br />
Neikid Resto D-1, Wismari 3, tel. (+372) 660 45 81,<br />
resto@neikid.ee, www.neikid.ee. A little off the beaten<br />
track but certainly worth-the-while, Neikid is anything<br />
but ‘naked’ when it comes to the cuisine, atmosphere<br />
and service. They call themselves ‘Mediterranean’ but<br />
the menu certainly has heavy international leanings as<br />
of late. Come for lunch and take your pick of a few daily<br />
specials or join the dinner-crowd for some of their à la<br />
carte specialities. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(€12). T6LSW<br />
Middle Eastern<br />
Magnuna B-2, Lai 42, tel. (+372) 682 54 22, magnuna@magnuna.ee,<br />
www.magnuna.ee. Not to be<br />
confused with the title of the Eurovision song "Maganuna"<br />
, which was just frightening - this reincarnation of another<br />
Asian/Middle Eastern restaurant that uses to be located<br />
on Pikk Street, is actually quite decent. They currently side<br />
more with the Middle Eastern way when it comes to their<br />
menu and apparently their chefs have globe-trotted to Tallinn<br />
from Afghanistan, the Sudan and Lebanon. Given the current<br />
political situations in all of those countries, we can't say that<br />
we blame them. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€12). JUSW<br />
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Russian<br />
Balalaika H-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton Grand Conference<br />
& Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 20, conferencespa@meritonhotels.com,<br />
www.meritonhotels.com/<br />
russian+restaurant/. This Russian restaurant located in<br />
the flagship Meriton hotel at the base of Toompea, offers up<br />
all the usual Russian fare you'd expect, such as caviar and<br />
blinis and the dishes are all prepared quite nicely. One thing<br />
though that sets Balalaika apart from the others is that they<br />
also offer a cold zakuska buffet, presented in an antique<br />
carriage from St. Petersburg - that, and the complimentary<br />
half-shot of vodka of course. Na Zdorovie! QOpen 12:00 -<br />
15:00; 18:00 - 23:00. (€15.50). ULW<br />
Café Pushkin C-4, Mere pst. 5, tel. (+372) 631 36 36,<br />
info@cafepushkin.ee, www.cafepushkin.ee. While other<br />
Russian places are geared towards tourists, Café Pushkin<br />
is where the local Russians, including politicos and celebs,<br />
come to eat. The bliny (pancakes) are said to be the best<br />
in the city. A long list of other Russian favourites is on offer,<br />
including the triple ukha (fish soup) and the Boyar (rolled beef<br />
stuffed with cherries and walnuts). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,<br />
Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€9). JESW<br />
Nevskij C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. (+372) 628 65 65,<br />
nevskij@schlossle-hotels.com, www.nevskij.ee. Given the<br />
way the St. Petersbourg Hotel's high-class restaurant is decorated,<br />
it might very well be mistaken for Russian intellectual's<br />
sitting room, were it not for the fact that a smart waiter greets<br />
you at your table with a vodka and caviar menu. Classic aristocratic<br />
staples are on offer and are done in a way that shows a<br />
clever chef at work. We enjoyed our food, and the fact that the<br />
complimentary vodka shots seemed to keep coming. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€15.50). JIESW<br />
Troika C-2, Raekoja plats 15, tel. (+372) 627 62 45,<br />
restoran@troika.ee, www.troika.ee. One of Tallinn's mustsee<br />
cellar restaurants, Troika wows its clientele with a cosy,<br />
old-style Russian décor and a singer who belts out folk songs<br />
from a balcony from time to time. (When choosing your table,<br />
you may want to consider just how close you want to be to<br />
this spectacle.) But the best thing about this place is the<br />
food - excellent bliny and pelmeni as well as a selection of<br />
traditional main courses. Great service. Book ahead. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:00. (€12.50). JUIEX<br />
Vene Söögituba A-3, Lai 49 (Meriton Old Town hotel),<br />
tel. (+372) 614 13 50, www.meritonhotels.com. Kind of<br />
like the little brother to their Balalaika restaurant, the 'Russian<br />
Eatery' is more laid-back and café-like featuring daily<br />
dishes, dumplings, soups, bliniis and crêpes. It's the kind of<br />
place where one can hang around a while, read a book, surf<br />
the internet or just enjoy a conversation with a friend. Great<br />
desserts too! QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. (€7.50). J<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
40 restaurants restaurants 41<br />
Seafood<br />
Fish & Wine C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 662 30 13,<br />
gloria@fw.ee, www.fw.ee. With its polished design, this<br />
large restaurant looks more like a trendy lounge at first<br />
glance. The friendly table service, however, extends all the<br />
way to complimentary roll and olive oil. As the name implies,<br />
a selection of, mainly, fish dishes makes up the menu, and<br />
if you're stuck, the wines by the glass 'go with everything'.<br />
Be aware that the price to portion ratio is a little lopsided,<br />
thank-God for the free bread. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 11:30 - 21:00. (€9.80). J6SW<br />
Restoran Kaljas C-3, Viru 23, tel. (+372) 666 00 02,<br />
info@kaljas.ee, www.kaljas.ee. Giving Tallinn's proximity<br />
to the sea, it's surprising that there aren't more seafood<br />
restaurants in the city. The interior of this place gives one the<br />
feeling that they are dining inside a wooden ship and although<br />
kind of the point it's done quite well. Even though Kaljas seems<br />
to cater more for the tourist than locals, overall the food and<br />
experience is certainly worth checking out. Excellent lunch<br />
specials too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (€15). JSW<br />
Spanish<br />
Tapas Bar & Restaurant H-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton<br />
Grand Conference & Spa hotel), tel. (+372) 667 71 10,<br />
grandhotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.<br />
com. If you've ever been to Spain you'll know that tapas are<br />
a very important part of the easy going lifestyle there. Diners<br />
here can appreciate these little bite sized temptations (€2 - 6),<br />
alongside a full bodied Spanish red, accompanied by a well<br />
endowed blonde or in the company of good friends. If you'd<br />
rather not fill up completely on tapas, they've got a decent<br />
selection of other Spanish delicacies on offer. The smaller Old<br />
Town Garden location however, only offers up tapas. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. Also at: Tapas & Wine - Meriton Old Town<br />
Garden Hotel, B-3, Pikk 29, tel. 664 88 03. Open 12:00<br />
- 23:00. (€6.40). J6UILSW<br />
Latvian<br />
Lido D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel.<br />
(+372) 609 33 64, lido@lido.ee, www.lido.ee. What is<br />
a Latvian restaurant anyway? Lido is an institution in Latvia<br />
and practically every Estonian and their mother has been<br />
to at least one of the locations in Riga at least once. With<br />
their first satellite location now open in Estonia, you too<br />
can see what all the fuss is about. The market concept is<br />
pretty simple and the food quite hearty. Just grab a tray,<br />
and point at what you want, the prices are all listed and<br />
the helpings are rather large. You certainly won’t leave Lido<br />
hungry. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (€6.40). TULSW<br />
Tex-Mex<br />
Amarillo C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. (+372) 680 92 80, amarillo.<br />
tallinn@sok.fi, www.amarillo.ee. Bright, friendly colours, hot<br />
(spicy) food, and a professional outlook set Amarillo a notch<br />
or two above most other Tex-Mex contenders. More Yankee<br />
choices like burgers and pizzas are as available as quesadillas<br />
and fajitas. The vast dining area and large kid's play corner, make<br />
this restaurant on the ground floor of the Sokos Viru Hotel a great<br />
choice for families, while two bars cater to an after-work crowd.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€11.50). TULES<br />
Cantina Carramba G-5, Weizenbergi 20a, tel. (+372)<br />
601 34 31, restoran@carramba.ee, www.carramba.<br />
ee. Something this, well, Mexican is a surprise find out in the<br />
Kadriorg neighbourhood. One advantage Carramba has over<br />
its competitors, besides the inviting pueblo décor, is the spice<br />
level - Carramba doesn't skimp on the peppers, and even the<br />
otherwise innocent-looking rice is fiery. The enchiladas, burritos,<br />
fajitas, etc that make up the menu might not be up to expectations.<br />
Among the appetisers, go straight for the hot wings.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (€10.55). T6S<br />
Taco Express D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682 55 08,<br />
info@tacoexpress.ee, www.tacoexpress.ee. Beware of<br />
the hot sauce! It's twice as hot coming out. Although not overly<br />
authentic, Express certainly does fill a niche in Tallinn. They've<br />
got loads of pseudo Mexican choices available, in different<br />
combinations and with varying degrees of heat. There are also<br />
pizzas available, a fair amount of vegetarian items and a few<br />
breakfast choices, including the ever popular breakfast burrito.<br />
All aboard the Taco Express, let's see where it takes us. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 07:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 10:00. (€6.50). JSW<br />
Thai<br />
Krua C-4, Vana-Viru 13/ Aia 4, tel. (+372) 646 26 13, info@<br />
krua.ee, www.krua.ee. One of the few truly Thai places in the<br />
city, Krua disappointed us. Don’t get us wrong, the food that we<br />
finally managed to eat, after a frightfully long wait, was quite fresh<br />
and decent - but the service was a nightmare and it appeared<br />
that the waitress we had was in fact ‘newer’ than the restaurant<br />
itself. Even our beer took over half an hour to get to us and after<br />
a few false food deliveries we were told that they had run out<br />
of spring rolls that we had ordered. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (€9). JSW<br />
Villa Thai G-4, J. Vilmsi 6, tel. (+372) 641 93 47, villathai@<br />
villathai.ee, www.villathai.ee. A well-established favourite<br />
in the Kadriorg district just outside the city centre, the Villa is<br />
a quiet, comfortable affair. Sit with the ceramic elephants and<br />
drapery of the dining room or head to the bamboo-filled atrium<br />
with its gurgling fountain. <strong>In</strong>terestingly, the menu goes well beyond<br />
Thailand, encompassing Vietnamese, <strong>In</strong>donesian, Malaysian<br />
and Tandoor dishes. Some dishes are on the heavy side. We<br />
liked the fish cakes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€8). TUSW<br />
Vietnamese<br />
Saigon H-3, Pronksi 3, tel. (+372) 640 39 44, www.<br />
saigon.ee. The menu here offers both Vietnamese and<br />
Chinese dishes, and we (along with our waitress) had<br />
trouble working out which were which. Still, it’s a pleasant<br />
enough little place, clean, casual and café-like and our<br />
food, whichever nation claims it, was highly edible. <strong>In</strong>gredients<br />
are fresh and rice dishes are excellent. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(€7). TULVSW<br />
Theme restaurants<br />
Estlander C-2, Vanaturu kael 3, tel. (+372) 627 90 24,<br />
reserve@estlanderfood.com. This establishment is certainly<br />
worth checking out. Set in the historic Hopner Merchant House,<br />
the idea behind this eatery is a 17th-century tavern and it doesn't<br />
get much more authentic than this. The menu is fairly simple and<br />
consists of dishes and drinks from Estonian recipes of that era.<br />
To really experience the history of the building you really must<br />
check out the upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€18). JI<br />
Korsaar C-2, Dunkri 5 (Beer House), tel. (+372) 666<br />
8064, booking@korsaar.ee, www.korsaar.ee. Avast<br />
mateys! If you've ever dreamed of running away to become<br />
a pirate or a wench, now's your chance. This stunning piratethemed<br />
restaurant goes way beyond anything we've ever<br />
seen in terms of attention to detail and authenticity. From<br />
gangplanks to shark tanks, this subterranean grotto has<br />
everything covered. The international food is equally fantastic,<br />
with leanings on the creole and seafood side of the port bow.<br />
This would be an awesome place for kids, sadly they insist on<br />
not allowing children under the age of 12 in to the restaurant<br />
- which we are not even sure is legal. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00;<br />
18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€19). JXS<br />
Le Château B-2, Lai 19, tel. (+372) 665 09 28,<br />
restoran@chateau.ee, www.chateau.ee. Elaborately<br />
done up in the style of old France (think musketeers, etc), Le<br />
Château is of Tallinn's best-kept secrets. Essentially it's an elegant,<br />
candle-lit cellar full of heavy, wooden furniture and staff<br />
in 16th-century French garb. The real treat here though is the<br />
food - particularly the high-value lunch specials. If you come<br />
for dinner, be sure to try the soup, served in an enormous<br />
terrine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€10.55). JL<br />
Turg C-2, Mündi 3, tel. (+372) 641 24 56, reserve@turg.<br />
ee, www.turg.ee. The name in Estonian means ‘market' and<br />
that's exactly what this theatricaly-decorated cellar restaurant<br />
looks like inside - a classic, outdoor market square, complete<br />
with overhanging eves, a tree, chirping birds and some faux<br />
produce. That doesn't mean you can haggle over menu prices<br />
though. The food on offer tends towards the Eastern European<br />
with a few Italian pizzas thrown in for good measure. For the<br />
frugal try the lunch buffet on offer Mon to Fri between 11:30<br />
and 15:00. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (€9.60). JS<br />
Trendy home-style<br />
The newest category of eateries to hit the Tallinn dining<br />
arena sees the combination of trendy elements, homestyle<br />
cuisine and down-to-earth dining all rolled into one. A<br />
fresh alternative to the ever present pub scene.<br />
new<br />
Kohvik Kompott B-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 641 60<br />
15, kompott@kompott.ee, www.kompott.ee. Located<br />
in a cellar on Pikk street, Kompott certainly doesn’t give<br />
the impression of a cellar restaurant once you enter.<br />
Bright, cheerful, often eclectic decor abound and the ultra<br />
cute wait-staff in their little aprons flit about attending to<br />
their patrons with a smile. <strong>In</strong> fact, overall we quite liked the<br />
experience but think they can do even better in the cuisine<br />
department. It was quite decent, but seemed a little like<br />
they were trying too hard to be different and they somehow<br />
didn’t quite meet even their own expectations. We’re sure<br />
though that over the next few months they’ll find their niche<br />
and despite their shortcomings we still reccomend you give<br />
them a try. Small play-corner for the kids too... something<br />
difficult to find in Old Town, so a decent choice for families.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€7.90). T6LSW<br />
Mamo H-3, Tornimäe 5, tel. (+372) 680 12 62, mamo@<br />
mamo.ee, www.mamo.ee. Brought to you by the same<br />
imaginative soul who envisioned the fantastic Olde Hansa<br />
concept, this café takes the cake - actually it gives the cake.<br />
We were super impressed by the fresh sandwiches, wonderful<br />
desserts, the stylish atmosphere and the attention to detail.<br />
We will certainly be back for Ma-more. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: H-3, Liivalaia 14, 682 59 77.<br />
Open 08:00 - 18:00, closed Sat, Sun. (€4). TSW<br />
nAnO B-3, Sulevimägi 5, tel. (+372) 55 52 25 22, priit@<br />
nanohouse.ee, www.nanohouse.ee. The brainchild of an<br />
Estonian fashion icon and her DJ partner, nAnO is a quaint<br />
little bohemianesque place that's both warm and friendly. It's<br />
hard to pin down the exact style of food other than to say it's<br />
home-style, fresh and healthy. You won't find any heavy meat<br />
dishes here, nor will you find beer - there are enough places<br />
in Tallinn that serve those kind of things. They don't currently<br />
have any solid opening hours, but if you want to experience<br />
the lovingly prepared food and warm atmosphere be sure to<br />
make reservations in advance. Q TJ6NW<br />
Ukrainian<br />
Odessa G-4, Narva mnt. 36, tel. (+372) 648 58 10,<br />
info@restoranodessa.ee, www.restoranodessa.ee.<br />
This place out on Kadriorg’s doorstep is overall quite<br />
good, the food is prepared fresh, the service was quite<br />
prompt and friendly and the overall atmosphere was quite<br />
desirable. It loses a few marks based on authenticity<br />
though - other than the ‘Chicken Kiev’ we couldn’t find<br />
too many actual Ukrainian dishes on the menu. We know<br />
Russian and Ukrainian cuisine share a lot of things but<br />
we’ve eaten Ukrainian food enough times to know it when<br />
we see it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€12). SW<br />
Trahter Bogdan Mustamäe tee 116, tel. (+372)<br />
625 18 50/(+372) 55 67 92 56, info@bogdan.ee,<br />
www.bogdan.ee. For the best Ukrainian food in the city<br />
you’ll have to travel a little outside of the centre. Approx.<br />
only a 15-minute car-ride from Old Town, Bogdan serves<br />
up authentic food and is much closer than travelling all<br />
the way to Kiev. The service can be a little slow, but the<br />
warm feeling in your belly after dining and the genuine<br />
atmosphere make it well worth the wait.Take trolleybus<br />
N°1 from Kaubamaja, or N°5 from the Baltijaam train station<br />
to the Tammsaare stop and keep walking. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12.00 - 24:00, Sun<br />
12.00 - 23.00. (€6). T6LSW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
42 restaurants<br />
Trendy restaurants<br />
Deja Vu C-3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 55, info@<br />
dejavu.ee, www.dejavu.ee. Wait - haven't we been here<br />
before? Actually, no we haven't. This reincarnation of a local favourite<br />
nightspot serves up plenty of tasty and trendy treats,<br />
the service is great and the atmosphere is stylish. We tried<br />
the shrimp and the Caesar salad and were quite impressed.<br />
Turns into a full-on party during the weekend nights and the<br />
kitchen stays open late too. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue<br />
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€10). JEXW<br />
Park Lounge H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, Reval Park Hotel, tel.<br />
(+372) 630 53 49, sales@parkhotel.ee, www.parkhotel.<br />
ee. More of an evening spot than anything else, the plush,<br />
cream-coloured chairs and stainless-steel floors make Park<br />
Lounge a stylish place to loaf. Somewhat hidden beneath the<br />
lobby of the Reval Park Hotel, the secluded spot has its own<br />
menu, as well as a separate area for full-fledged dining. The<br />
fare on offer includes Mediterranean and Estonian cuisines.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (€15). TULW<br />
Platz B-4, Roseni 7, tel. (+372) 664 50 86, info@platz.<br />
ee, www.platz.ee. Everything old is new again - or at least in<br />
the Rotermanni Quarter it is. It's there you'll find this stylish yet<br />
elegant eatery nestled into an old, industrial limestone building.<br />
The artfully prepared cuisine, is an innovative and fresh<br />
fusion of European flavours using local ingredients whenever<br />
possible. The service is equally crisp but not too starchy. We<br />
quite enjoyed the tempura and the decadent desserts. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (€12). J6LES<br />
Ribe C-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 30 84, info@ribe.ee, www.<br />
ribe.ee. This Nordic-style eatery is a good representation of a<br />
current trend in Tallinn and the food and overall experience were<br />
excellent the last time we ate there. The intriguing menu items are<br />
all artistically presented and the interior design is just pretty as<br />
punch. We found the portions a little on the slim side, nonetheless<br />
the ambience, friendly service, fantastic wine list made a trip here<br />
worthwhile. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€13). TJ6<br />
Teatri Puhvet D-4, Teatri väljak 3, tel. (+372) 699 05 90,<br />
info@puhvet.ee, www.puhvet.ee. Designed with theatrical<br />
inspiration, this restaurant, attached to a café of the same name,<br />
serves up fresh and creative dishes. Unlike most others in its<br />
class, the portions found here won't leave you hungry and the<br />
prices won't break you either. Occasional live music on weekends.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (€7.70). UEW<br />
Zebra Café G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372) 610 92 30,<br />
info@zebracafe.ee, www.zebracafe.ee. Zebra offers à la<br />
carte dining with the option of a slightly cheaper cafeteria setup,<br />
complete with freshly-baked pastries, desserts and a salad<br />
bar, all in one very slick, cool room. The service is excellent,<br />
and prices, while they might be a bit higher than elsewhere,<br />
are more than justified by the wonderful cooking. Dj's lay-down<br />
some hot tracks Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€14). VSW<br />
Upscale<br />
Bordoo A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. (+372) 630<br />
63 55, bordoo@threesistershotel.com, www.threesistershotel.com.<br />
Estonian for Bordeaux, the Three<br />
Sisters restaurant is in a class unto itself. The stylish<br />
interior combines a new world elegance with hints of<br />
its old world surroundings. Headed up by award-winning<br />
chef Tõnis Siigur and his energetic team, the focus<br />
here is on fresh local ingredients brought to life with<br />
creativity and flavourful ideas. To top it all off, they<br />
also create their very own artisan breads, scrumptious<br />
marmalades and to-die-for desserts. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
23:00. (€22.35). J<br />
Egoist B-3, Vene 33, tel. (+372) 646 40 52, egoist@<br />
egoist.ee, www.egoist.ee. Take all trappings of an oldfashioned,<br />
high-class restaurant - the chandeliers, the<br />
antiques, the tie-clad diners - multiply the decadence by<br />
three, and you'll get some idea of what the award-winning<br />
Egoist is all about. The sister restaurant to Gloria, this<br />
exclusive establishment has an equally impressive menu,<br />
offering choices like lobster carpaccio, pan-fried foie gras<br />
and elk fillet noisettes. Book ahead, dress to impress<br />
and ring the bell to enter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed<br />
Sun. (€25.55). J<br />
Gloria D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372) 640 68 00,<br />
gloria@gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. Gloria has been synonymous<br />
with class and style since it opened in 1937,<br />
and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior,<br />
you'll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for<br />
the Pope and several visiting heads of state. <strong>In</strong> case you<br />
need more convincing, Condé Nast named Gloria one of<br />
the world's 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing,<br />
well-orchistrated experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun<br />
17:00 - 23:30. (€26). JS<br />
Horisont Restaurant & Bar H-3, Tornimäe 3,<br />
(Swissotel,30th floor), tel. (+372) 624 30 00, horisont.tallinn@swissotel.com,<br />
www.horisont-restoran.<br />
com. This first-rate restaurant may have a great view, but<br />
we think the cuisine and top-notch service are even more<br />
spectacular. The folks at Horisont treat everyone like a<br />
VIP no matter who they are, every staffer's move is like a<br />
beautiful waltz and every morsel of food a flavourful work<br />
of art. We're pretty sure that if you dine here once, it won't<br />
be your last visit. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Bar open: 17:00 - 01:00. (€24.80). UXW<br />
M.C Grill C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. (+372) 699 77<br />
80, maksim@schlossle-hotels.com, www.schloesslehotel.com.<br />
The Schlössle hotel's venerated cellar restaurant<br />
is an elegant refuge decorated with colourful swaths of<br />
cloth that bring to mind a fairytale castle. Everything on the<br />
menu is exquisitely prepared by a team of award-winning<br />
chefs, making it well worth the price. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€19). J6IXSW<br />
Tchaikovsky C-3, Vene 9, Hotel Telegraaf, tel. (+372)<br />
600 06 10, tchaikovsky@telegraafhotel.com, www.<br />
telegraafhotel.com. Located in the beautifully renovated<br />
Telegraaf and much more opulent than most hotel restaurants,<br />
the Tchaikovsky is a luxury Russian-French-fusion<br />
affair dedicated to preparing culinary delights reminiscent<br />
of fine cuisines from a whole other era. Here you'll find<br />
flaky pastry crusts, succulent shrimps and fine wines fit<br />
for the Tsar, and if you're lucky he'll offer to pay as well.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (€17).<br />
JUILEW<br />
Classic cafés<br />
The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a<br />
pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It's not that<br />
these places don't have ambience - they do, but they're<br />
more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in.<br />
Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café B-3, Pikk<br />
30, tel. (+372) 644 45 30, anneli@anneliviik.ee, www.<br />
anneliviik.ee. Chocoholics beware! This little, Old Town café<br />
features Anneli Viik's handmade chocolates, made on the spot<br />
and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to<br />
accompany your coffee (or light food or cognac, etc). There's even<br />
a glass wall that lets you watch the chocolatiers do their stuff.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. J6USW<br />
Café Boulevard H-3, Liivalaia 33, Radisson Blu Hotel<br />
Olümpia, tel. (+372) 631 58 60, olympia.pastry@radissonblu.com,<br />
www.cafeboulevard.ee. Wrapped sandwiches,<br />
pastries, fresh-squeezed juices and other healthy choices are<br />
served up at the Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia's busy ground<br />
floor café. It's often a bustling environment, but there are some<br />
soft, circular sofas for those who want to take things slow. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00. (€8). TULSW<br />
Kohvik Julius D-2, Harju 40a, tel. (+372) 55 51 57 36,<br />
kohvik@gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. With its perfect views<br />
onto the park and bustling Harju street, this little café serves<br />
up some great Viennese coffee, pastries and some excellent<br />
people watching possibilities - both in summer and winter,<br />
thanks to being right next to the ice rink. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
22:00. (€7). JW<br />
Kohvituba B-2, Lai 26, tel. (+372) 508 60 68, info@<br />
kohvituba.eu, www.kohvituba.eu. The things that make<br />
this tiny café special are its minute proportions, its fresh<br />
cakes and ultra quaint and romantic atmosphere. It's the kind<br />
of place you'd want to bring Grandma after church or a friend<br />
you haven't seen in a while. The prices are quite reasonable<br />
and the sheer size of the coffee list is commendable. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00. JS<br />
Kuku Kohvik D-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 59<br />
26. This tiny café sandwiched between galleries is somewhat<br />
predictably a popular hangout for artists and artsy types. No<br />
baret required, but be prepared to discuss post-modernism.<br />
Note that some customers, as well as at least one seriously<br />
out-of-date city guide, still refer to this place by its 1990s<br />
name, Wiiralt. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 18:00. (€6.70). J<br />
La Boheme G/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. (+372) 660 07<br />
11, laboheme@uniquestay.com, www.laboheme.ee. Nicely<br />
done up with stone walls and cheerful orange tables, this slick<br />
little café is a great stopping place for big, fresh, inexpensive<br />
pastries. More exotic items like passion fruit milkshakes and<br />
couscous salads are on offer, and the aquarium counter is an<br />
interesting addition. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (€10). TUSW<br />
Mademoiselle B-3, Pikk 29 (Meriton Old Town Garden<br />
Hotel), tel. (+372) 664 88 05, hotels@meritonhotels.<br />
com, www.meritonhotels.com. Considered for years to be<br />
one of Tallinn's best places to get a delectable dessert, this<br />
classic café still lives up to its reputation. Along with the many<br />
calorie-laden treats on offer, you can also find a few decent<br />
savoury meals and a couple of breakfast options at each of<br />
the two locations around town. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Also<br />
at: H-2, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski<br />
mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 628 81 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (€6.40).<br />
1TJSW<br />
CafÉs<br />
Maiasmokk C-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646 40 79, www.<br />
kalev.eu/maiasmokk/kohvik. Tallinn's oldest café, the<br />
Sweet Tooth has been serving marzipan and other treats<br />
since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate<br />
cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:00. JS<br />
Pikajala C-1, Pikk jalg 16, tel. (+372) 648 14 28,<br />
aylika1@gmail.com, www.pikajalakohvik.ee. There<br />
aren't too many places to grab a bite or a coffee when you<br />
reach the top of the hill that is Toompea, but this is one of<br />
them. A reincarnation of an old tourist trap of the same name<br />
has actually gotten much better and eating a light bite here<br />
won't break the bank. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 09:00<br />
- 22:00. (€11). JSW<br />
Reval Café Vene C-2/3, Vene 1, tel. (+372) 644 64 73,<br />
info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. It's the one with the<br />
giant mocha pot. The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable,<br />
the perfect spot to lounge out with a cup of joe and a friend.<br />
If you'd rather have a read with your coffee, head upstairs<br />
where there's less noise. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat<br />
08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:30 - 21:00. Also at: C-4, Vana-Viru<br />
14. Open Mon - Tue 08:00 - 23:00, Wed - Thy 08:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
(€5.10). J6UIESW<br />
Saiakang C-2, Saiakang 3/5, tel. (+372) 644 30 55,<br />
www.saialill.ee. One of the last of Old Town's simple and<br />
cheap cafés. Here you'll find plenty of salads, pastries and<br />
frugal, old folks. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (€3.60). JS<br />
Soviet chic<br />
Up for a nostalgia trip? Without really trying, some<br />
cafés have retained the essence of the USSR in all its<br />
tacky glory.<br />
Energia Kohvik D-4, Kaubamaja 4, tel. (+372) 660<br />
47 06. This busy café next to a main trolleybus stop<br />
offers dim lighting, suspicious little sandwiches and a<br />
hideous interior. No wonder the Soviet Union was so<br />
feared. Bus your own tray. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 18:00. S<br />
Narva Kohvik G-3, Narva mnt. 10, tel. (+372) 660<br />
17 86, info@kohviknarva.ee, www.kohviknarva.<br />
ee. The heavy and somewhat overdone interior falls<br />
somewhere between cosy and ominous, but this oldtimer’s<br />
continued popularity is probably down to sticking<br />
to the same formula: keeping everything simple and<br />
cheap. Peruse the attached bakery or just slip into the<br />
long, dark salon and brood. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 18:00. SW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
43
44 CafÉs CafÉs 45<br />
Fashionable<br />
Tallinn's most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the<br />
satisfaction that you're with the 'in' crowd.<br />
Bestseller C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6, 3rd floor of Viru Centre, tel.<br />
(+372) 53 46 71 96, kohvik@relevante.ee. Pulling in a clientele<br />
that's both intellectual and trendy (think blondes wearing glasses),<br />
this café on the lower floor of the Viru Centre's Rahva Raamat book<br />
store has become a popular gourmet lunch destination. It offers an<br />
original selection of salads and light brasserie-style meals as well<br />
as ciabatta sandwiches or bread to go. Surprisingly inexpensive<br />
for this level of quality. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TULSW<br />
Café More C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372)<br />
661 91 33/(+372) 56 95 59 08, info@cafemore.ee, www.<br />
cafemore.ee. Owned by one of Estonia's top cook-book authors,<br />
this book store café offers some inspired light-bites, fresh<br />
and tasty salads as well as some sinfully tempting desserts.<br />
Grab a book or your laptop and settle in for a while. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00. (€7). TJ6ULSW<br />
new<br />
Kinokohvik Sinilind C-3, Müürivahe 50, tel. (+372) 58<br />
38 36 25. Brought to you by the same folks over at 'Must<br />
Puudel', and oddly enough decorated in largely the same way ie.<br />
Soviet and Scandinavian retro chic - the 'Cinema Café Bluebird'<br />
seemed to us to be pretty much just an extension of their other<br />
locale, other than the fact that on Tuesday evenings they have<br />
an Estonian cinema night. These nights usually highlight a few<br />
films from a certain era in Estonian film history and are certainly<br />
geared to cinemaphiles. NB! Kitchen should open sometime at<br />
the end of October, until then you'll have to settle for pastries,<br />
cakes and liquid refreshments. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. J<br />
Kohvik Spirit B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 51,<br />
info@kohvikspirit.ee, www.kohvikspirit.ee. Designers apparently<br />
couldn't decide if they were making a sushi bar or a living<br />
Gourmet shop cafés<br />
These cafés not only serves gourmet food, but also sell<br />
the ingredients to let budding chefs dabble at home.<br />
Confiserie Friida C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 661<br />
94 99, friida@friida.eu, www.friida.eu. This tiny little<br />
confiserie features a good selection of sweets, chocolates,<br />
gourmet Italian coffees, fine wines and a few other delicacies<br />
to savour. Stop by for an espresso or take some of their<br />
other goodies to go. QOpen 09:30 - 14:30;15:00 - 18:30,<br />
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:30;15:00 - 17:00. JS<br />
Güllüoglu Café H-3, Rävala pst. 2, tel. (+372) 661<br />
3047/(+372) 53 42 73 21, gulluoglu-eesti@hotmail.<br />
com, www.gulluoglu.ee. Home to perhaps the best baklava<br />
and Turkish coffee in the city, this hard-to-pronounce<br />
café is actually part of a large, well-known chain from the<br />
former Byzantine Empire. They not only provide sweet<br />
temptations though, you’ll also be able to grab some excellent<br />
savoury items such as sandwiches, croissants and<br />
the like. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€6). 6SW<br />
Vertigo Gourmet C-3, Viru 17, kauplus@vertigogourmet.ee,<br />
www.vertigogourmet.ee. A little pricey, but the<br />
quality and originality of products offered here just might<br />
tempt you into skipping out on the McDonalds Café across<br />
the street. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. JS<br />
room, so this cushy café/restaurant ends up with a feel that's<br />
both exclusive and comfy. A small selection of soups, mains and<br />
pastas is available, but mostly it's sushi here, with combos from<br />
€5.50-12. The food is tasty, the crowd is chic and the entrance<br />
is in the back - it's always better through the back door isn't<br />
it? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€11). 6SW<br />
Must Puudel D-3, Müürivahe 20, tel. (+372) 505 62 58.<br />
Not to be confused with 'Must Lammas' , on the parallel Sauna<br />
street, the Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy<br />
Soviet-living-room feel and a cosy hang-out kind of atmosphere.<br />
The cuisine is kind of a blend between trendy and home-style, the<br />
prices won't bankrupt you and there are even live entertainment<br />
events held some weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€5). JEW<br />
Popular & Köök Boheem C-3, Vana-Viru 6, tel. (+372)<br />
641 45 65. The former 'Popular Café och Pub' has been turned<br />
into a sort of clone of their other two venues, both of which also<br />
have the name 'Boheem' in their names. On the plus side, this<br />
new incarnation (which used to be a haven for shisha pipe smokers<br />
and just smokers in general) does have a kitchen serving<br />
up decent, fresh-oriented cuisine. On the minus it's no longer a<br />
haven for smokers, who very much relied on the welcome comfort<br />
of a decent smoking lounge, especially come winter - which pretty<br />
much starts in September and lasts until May here in Tallinn. On<br />
weekend nights it turns into a loungy club of sorts, offering all<br />
the latest beats from genres we haven't even heard of. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JXW<br />
Wabadus D-2, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. (+372) 53 70<br />
19 03/(+372) 644 42 32, wabadus@wabadus.ee, www.<br />
wabadus.ee. The newest incarnation of this eatery, formerly<br />
known as Moskva and Kultus, just happens to hit the nail right<br />
on the head - so to speak. From the clean interior design and<br />
1930's inspired outfits to the delightfully prepared dishes and<br />
the snappy service Wabadus will transport you back in time.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (€9.50). JEW<br />
XX sajand C-2, Kullassepa 13, tel. (+372) 611 90 85,<br />
kohvik@xxsajand.ee, www.xxsajand.ee. Located just across<br />
from the Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre, this is a great little spot for<br />
a light bite, a coffee, a dessert or a cocktail - '20th Century' is<br />
both cosy and central. You can tell that the owners have put<br />
their hearts into it and it's one place we will certainly visit again.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (€9.90). TJ6ESW<br />
Bakeries<br />
Loads of little bakeries and cafés around town churn<br />
out tempting pastries and provide coffee and tables<br />
to let you indulge on the spot. Here we have listed just<br />
a few that specialise in baked goods.<br />
Coco D-3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372)<br />
672 27 22, info@cocopagar.ee, www.cocopagar.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JS<br />
Elsebet in Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372)<br />
646 69 95, peppersack@peppersack.ee, www.peppersack.ee.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. JS<br />
Mademoiselle H-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton Grand<br />
Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 55,<br />
www.meritonhotels.com. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
JS<br />
Stylish & Cosy<br />
These classy establishments are best for long chats with<br />
friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your<br />
next novel.<br />
Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.<br />
bogapott.ee. Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea,<br />
the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway.<br />
Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this<br />
combination café, art shop and ceramics studio. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JIW<br />
Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, bonaparte@bonaparte.ee,<br />
www.bonaparte.ee. Nestled in a beautiful,<br />
17th-century building, Bonaparte certainly has a refined<br />
atmosphere, but it's a casual and surprisingly affordable place<br />
to sip earl grey and sample the buttery croissants and other<br />
home-made pastries. Sit and watch the world go by, or check<br />
out one of the revolving art exhibits. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Mon, Tue 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
(€7). J6SW<br />
Café Amore D-2, Harju 5, tel. (+372) 644 07 21, info@<br />
cafeamore.ee. Because it's all about the love isn't it. This<br />
quaint little café kind of bleeds romantic, from the ultra sinful<br />
chocolate cakes and the rich coffees to the little cans of proseco<br />
and gold framed everything, Amore really spreads the love. Quite<br />
a nice view onto Niguliste church too. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
(€10). JS<br />
C'est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48,<br />
info@cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. This swanky establishment's<br />
1930's style interior will have you dancing the Charleston.<br />
The cuisine certainly has a French bent to it, and the romantic<br />
ambience makes this a great choice for a date. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. TJ6ESW<br />
Enigma C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel. (+372) 55 67 15 98.<br />
Enigma, truly is - an enigma. This tiny hole-in-the-wall, located<br />
just steps from Town hall Square carries a smattering of pastries,<br />
hot and cold drinks and is open between the hours of 10am<br />
until 1am - as long as you call ahead to book a tea ceremony<br />
or something... they also call themselves a vegetarian place,<br />
whatever that means. Q J<br />
Josephine C-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 641 82 91, pierre@<br />
pierre.ee, www.pierre.ee. Brought to you by the same fine<br />
chocolatiers as Pierre located in the courtyard just down the<br />
street, the atmosphere at Josephine is quite a bit different a<br />
little swankier, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade<br />
chocolate. This is not a bad place to indulge your yourself in decadence.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. JSW<br />
Kehrwieder Chocolaterie C-2, Saiakang 1<br />
(Raekoja Plats), tel. (+372) 55 56 72 03, saiakang@<br />
kohvik.ee, www.kohvik.ee. One of the best cafés in<br />
town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cavelike<br />
stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent<br />
gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town<br />
Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned<br />
it can get crowded here. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />
08:00 - 01:00. JSW<br />
Kloostri Ait C-3, Vene 14, tel. (+372) 644 68 87, info@<br />
kloostriait.ee, www.kloostriait.ee. A sad story. Renovation<br />
has turned what was Tallinn's favourite artsy, medieval-style<br />
beer hall into a tourist-oriented café, which unfortunately<br />
lacks any of its former character. Look for simple, Estonian<br />
and international dishes on the somewhat pricey menu.<br />
Management has refused our repeated requests to update<br />
our information, enter at your own risk. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(€9.60). JUI<br />
Kohvik Komeet D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris<br />
Centre), tel. (+372) 614 00 90, info@kohvikkomeet.<br />
ee, www.kohvikkomeet.ee. This gem of a café located<br />
in the sparkling new Solaris centre has great views, fresh<br />
foods and above all, killer desserts. Did we mention the<br />
awesome desserts? Because if you come here you should<br />
really try some of their excellent desserts. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (€7).<br />
T6USW<br />
Matilda C-2, Lühike jalg 4, tel. (+372) 681 65 90, info@<br />
matilda.ee, www.matilda.ee. A seething den of flowers<br />
and femininity, this cutesy little café was once home to the<br />
medieval artist Michel Sittow and specialises in delicious<br />
cakes, such as the Pavlova tort and Marnier biscuit roll, all<br />
made right on the spot. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 -<br />
18:00. J6SW<br />
Pierre Chocolaterie C-3, Vene 6 (in the Masters<br />
Courtyard), tel. (+372) 641 80 61, pierre@pierre.ee,<br />
www.pierre.ee. People squeeze into this quaint, frilly,<br />
19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has<br />
its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from<br />
scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere.<br />
Be warned that seats fill up fast and that during slow times<br />
they occasionally close a little early. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. JSW<br />
Reval Café Müürivahe D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372)<br />
641 81 00, info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. The<br />
modish combination of jagged, medieval brick and cushy<br />
furnishings could only work in a place like Tallinn. Fine for<br />
intense philosophical debates or dessert. If debating has<br />
gotten you truly hungry, check out the restaurant in the back.<br />
QOpen , Mon, Tue 07:30 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 07:30 - 24:00,<br />
Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00.<br />
(€9.60). TJ6UILXSW<br />
Till ja Kummel (Dill & Chamomile) C-2, Nunne 7,<br />
tel. (+372) 670 10 77, kohvik@till-kummel.ee, www.<br />
till-kummel.ee. Brits may find it offensive but pretty much<br />
every, if not all, dishes served here contain the Estonian<br />
mainstay - dill. Not that every dish consists heavily of dill,<br />
but as their name suggests, the addition of the herb to every<br />
dish kind of serves as a 'calling card' - so to speak. Every item<br />
we had here was enjoyed quite thouroughly and the burger<br />
certainly hit the mark - something we actually have a hard<br />
time with here in Tallinn. Lovely little courtyard too, weather<br />
permitting. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
Closed Sun. (€9). J<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
46 nightlife nightlife<br />
One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless<br />
party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously<br />
high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign<br />
visitors, this just means there’s more variety on offer. This<br />
section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that<br />
suits your mood, whatever that may be.<br />
Expat hangouts<br />
Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these<br />
bars and pubs are where Tallinn's expats, and more than a<br />
few tourists, tend to congregate.<br />
Cafe VS E-2, Pärnu mnt. 28, tel. (+372) 627 26 27, info@<br />
cafevs.ee, www.cafevs.ee. You will never be alone in this<br />
groovy well-established favourite bar of locals and expats alike,<br />
which interestingly doubles as an <strong>In</strong>dian restaurant. There's always<br />
a vibrant ambience which, depending on the time of day, will<br />
have you chilling on the comfy lounges or grooving when the DJs<br />
are in the house later in the evening. Head to the more intimate<br />
room downstairs for a bit of privacy. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />
10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. USW<br />
Clayhills Gastropub C-2, Pikk 13, tel. (+372) 641 93<br />
12, clayhills@clayhills.ee, www.clayhills.ee. Serving up<br />
gastronomical delights both by day and night, this is a great<br />
place to hang out ina relaxed atmosphere. Clayhills offers up a<br />
healthy selection of local and imported beers, heart-warming<br />
and creative pub cuisine and a healthy dose of live music<br />
on weekend evenings. You'll also be able to catch the latest<br />
football match on the big screens or watch Tallinn pass you<br />
by from one of the window seats. If you're looking for a more<br />
intimate experience, you can check out the cosy upstairs on<br />
the 2nd floor. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 01:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (€11). J6EW<br />
The Baltics’ first Gastropub<br />
EUROPEAN & ESTONIAN cuisine<br />
Large selection of local & imported BEERS & WINES<br />
LIVE MUSIC every weekend<br />
ONLY 50m from the Townhall Square<br />
RESERVATIONS:<br />
+372 641 9312 • clayhills@clayhills.ee<br />
Pikk 13, Tallinn • www.clayhills.ee<br />
Hell Hunt B-3, Pikk 39, tel. (+372) 681 83 33, hellhunt@hellhunt.ee,<br />
www.hellhunt.ee. If you just want to<br />
grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell<br />
Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open,<br />
comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of<br />
style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense<br />
atmosphere. While here, try the pub's own brand of light and<br />
dark beers (brewed in Viru Õlu). Good, cheap food too. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 02:00. Age restriction 18+. J6IEXW<br />
Mad Murphy's C-2, Mündi 2, tel. (+372) 625 45 44/<br />
(+372) 601 10 70, www.madmurphys.ee. Mad Murphy's<br />
has taken over the space of Tallinn's longest running,<br />
authentic Irish Pub - but have no fear, given the extensive<br />
renovations and commitment to excellence, Murphy's should<br />
more than make up for the void that Molly's left behind. It's<br />
everything you'd expect from an Irish Pub and a whole lot<br />
more. Featuring a well-ventilated smoking room, a dance-floor,<br />
more large-screens than you can shake a stick at and some<br />
fantastic live music on weekends, Murphy's will certainly get<br />
quite 'mad' any night of the week. They also serve up loads of<br />
your favourite pub grub as well as a few signature dishes just<br />
to keep things 'fresh' as it were. Great summer terrace and<br />
an excellent selection of beers on tap. Meet you at Murphy's!<br />
Sláinte! QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. JXW<br />
Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) C/D-3, Suur-<br />
Karja 4, tel. (+372) 641 15 15/(+372) 56 49 14 91,<br />
nimetabaar@hot.ee, www.nimetabaar.ee. <strong>In</strong> case the<br />
flags hanging out front don't give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential<br />
expat bar. At times it looks like something between<br />
a British stag party hangout and an expat boys' club, but a<br />
good number of locals and backpacker types make it more<br />
interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into<br />
the dancing mood. A good place to watch sports and/or eat<br />
pub food. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00.<br />
Age restriction 18+. JUXSW<br />
Tonic D-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 680 76 17. The pub<br />
formerly known as Nimega (The Bar With a Name), is still a<br />
very lively locale on Old Town's main bar street. This nightlife<br />
reincarnation hopes to attract a slightly more urbane crowd<br />
than those who used to come here for cheap drinks. The air<br />
here is still generally one of boy-meets-girl and on weekends,<br />
the little dance area in back sees plenty of action. The<br />
former 'Molly Malone's' is rumoured to be opening up here<br />
in the near future so don't blame us if you find it closed and<br />
under renovations. QOpen , Mon, Tue 11:00 - 02:00, Wed,<br />
Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 07:00, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun<br />
18:00 - 02:00. JXW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
How to toast in Estonian<br />
If you want to get in good with the locals, it never hurts<br />
to learn how to toast in the national language. Luckily<br />
it’s fairly simple here: Estonians toast by clinking their<br />
glasses and saying ‘Terviseks’ (health). It’s crucial, however,<br />
that you look your drinking companion in the eye<br />
just as your glasses are clinking. If you miss this step,<br />
the toast doesn’t count and you’ll have to start all over!<br />
Estonian style<br />
If you're looking for a bit of local flavour, try these.<br />
Karja Kelder C/D-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 644 10<br />
08/(+372) 644 65 87, karjakelder@hot.ee, www.karjakelder.ee.<br />
A well-loved Old Town pub with a more relaxed,<br />
local feel than its expat-oriented neighbours, Karja Kelder is<br />
definitely one to seek out. The variety of cheap beer (and food)<br />
makes it a hit, as do the occasional live bands. One caveat<br />
is that it gets crowded in the evening, necessitating a totalitarian<br />
coat-check policy. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun<br />
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (€5.10). JESW<br />
Kochi Ait Tavern G-3, Lootsi 10, tel. (+372) 666 73 08,<br />
info@kochiaidad.ee, www.kochiaidad.ee. An authentically<br />
recreated tavern just next to the 'D' terminal in the port,<br />
Kochi has pulled all the stops to make sure that locals and<br />
travellers alike will want to come back for more. The cuisine<br />
is top-notch for the price, they have live acts booked pretty<br />
much every weekend and they've built a functional brewery<br />
on the premises. When everything is up and running, you'll<br />
be able to sample some of their fantastic micro-brews which<br />
includes, among other speciality beers, a 'live' draught as well.<br />
Until then you'll have to settle for one of the many fantastic<br />
imports, either bottled or on tap. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (€9). UEXSW<br />
Kolmas Draakon (The Third Dragon) C-2, Raekoja<br />
plats 1 (Town Hall), tel. (+372) 627 90 20, draakon@<br />
kolmasdraakon.ee. Tucked into the corner of Tallinn's<br />
famous Town Hall, this teensy-weensy tavern has both a<br />
historic ambience and an enviable location. Better still, it's<br />
owned by Olde Hansa so it's guaranteed to be a great locale<br />
to grab a soup, pastry or a pint of 'mead'. All drinks are €2,<br />
food is €1 and brine pickles in the barrel are FREE! QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. JS<br />
Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt (Traveller's Pub<br />
and Club) H-4, Tartu mnt. 44, tel. (+372) 601 07 62,<br />
juhataja@seiklusjutte.ee, www.seiklusjutte.ee. Named<br />
for Estonia's favourite collection of adventure stories, this<br />
popular local has a warm, airy, lodge-like feel - a sharp contrast<br />
to the nearby market area. There are plenty of maps<br />
and globes here to help you plan your expedition to Danger<br />
Island, or the Centre of the Earth or wherever. Big-screen<br />
TV and comfy chairs. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00 - 02:00. (€6). ISW<br />
Valli Baar D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372) 641 83 79.<br />
The Valli is definitely one Tallinn establishment you need to<br />
check out. Let's just say that it is so full of ‘local colour', it<br />
even had a documentary made about it recently. It's also a<br />
well known fact that attractive blondes often head here for<br />
the house speciality 'Millimallikas' cocktail before trawling for<br />
men over at Club Hollywood. This bar undoubtedly makes it<br />
seem cool to be a dirty old man. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. JE<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
OPEN EVERY DAY from 12.00 to 02.00<br />
Pikk 39, Tallinn, Estonia, www.hellhunt.ee<br />
Cigar lounges<br />
Puff to your heart’s content in these highly urbane<br />
shop/lounges.<br />
Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (372) 627 12 66,<br />
info@chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. This is handsdown,<br />
the best cigar lounge in the city. The lounge<br />
comprises the entire upstairs floor of the restaurant,<br />
contains a walk-in humidor, a copious amount of fine<br />
cigars and more cognac than could kill the entire lineup<br />
at the Kentucky Derby - that’s horses and jockeys.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri<br />
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.<br />
JUXSW<br />
La Casa Del Habano C-2, Dunkri 2, tel. (+372) 644<br />
56 47, lcdh@havanas.ee, www.havanas.ee. Owned<br />
by Estonia’s exclusive Cuban cigar distributor, this beautiful,<br />
casual Afro-Caribbean-style lounge has comfy chairs<br />
and a warm look. It’s a sensible place to stop for a Cohiba<br />
or a cup of Cuban coffee at the beginning or the end of<br />
your evening out. Friendly, professional service. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JXW<br />
Sigari Maja (Cigar House) C-2, Raekoja plats<br />
16, tel. (+372) 631 47 35, info@cigarhouse.ee. The<br />
quiet, old-fashioned luxury at the Cigar House extends to<br />
wood panelling, a fireplace and busts of ancient Greek<br />
philosophers. If you want to sink into a leather sofa and<br />
sip expensive brandy, this is the place. A wide selection of<br />
Cuban, Dominican and other cigars on offer. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Age restriction 21+. JIX<br />
April - May 2012<br />
47
48 nightlife nightlife 49<br />
Karaoke<br />
Pikk 39, Tallinn<br />
On top of Hell Hunt / Second floor /<br />
(+372) 6463722 , (+372) 5668 5338<br />
Due to Tallinn’s proximity to the karaoke-loving nation<br />
of Finland, there are quite a few karaoke spots to be<br />
found here. By no means have we listed all the possible<br />
karaoke venues, but here are a few that specialise in<br />
the art of personal embarrassment.<br />
Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar B-4, Roseni 13, tel.<br />
(+372) 681 65 05, info@karaokebaar.ee, www.<br />
karaokebaar.ee. Brought to you by the most popular<br />
vodka in Finland, this spot runs Karaoke every night<br />
except Sunday. They take this art-form so seriously<br />
they even hold competitions and have a client card.<br />
QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed<br />
Sun. JXW<br />
The Shamrock Pub karaoke C-3, Viru 24,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 31 36, merike24@msn.com.<br />
This place has become somewhat of a ‘Mecca’ for<br />
Karaoke and given it’s location on the bustling Viru<br />
Street, with sessions running every night starting at<br />
22:00, it’s not really a surprise. What is a surprise is<br />
that most of the performers don’t even seem mildly<br />
embarrassed despite the fact that most of them are<br />
tone-deaf. QOpen 22:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 -<br />
04:00. JXW<br />
Vana Toomas karaoke C-2, Raekoja plats 10,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 42 27, www.vanatoomas.ee. Offering<br />
karaoke two nights per week - this is by far the<br />
most central and even draws a fair amount of locals.<br />
QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 24:00. J<br />
Live entertainment<br />
Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in<br />
particular are known as venues for live music. Café Amigo<br />
(see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia's best acts.<br />
Bastioni Aed C-3, Viru 23 courtyard, tel. (+372) 666<br />
00 02, info@bastioniaed.ee. An outdoor café by day and<br />
live entertainment venue by night, this spot tucked into a<br />
courtyard, serves up some pretty decent food and some<br />
enjoyable distractions as well. Due to the outside location<br />
however, this locale will best be enjoyed during the warmer<br />
months and with favourable weather. Check their Facebook<br />
Fanpage for upcoming events. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. JE<br />
Chicago 1933 C-3, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 66, info@<br />
chicago.ee, www.chicago.ee. For some of the finest live<br />
blues this side of... well - Chicago, you can check out this<br />
swinging establishment just around the corner from the Viru<br />
Gates. The interior is all decked out in rich, dark wood and<br />
filled with large booths just like they have in the 'Windy City'.<br />
There's a strict 'no firearms allowed' policy though, so make<br />
sure you check your guns at the door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00,<br />
Sun 14:00 - 24:00. (€14). JUEXSW<br />
Clazz C-2, Vana turg 2, tel. (+372) 627 90 22, clazz@<br />
clazz.ee, www.clazz.ee. Not only is Clazz a great place to<br />
grab a bite all hours of the day or night, it has quickly turned into<br />
one of the most happening spots in town for live music - practically<br />
every night of the week! Expect a wide variety of local and<br />
international performers, with styles ranging from jazz to Latin<br />
and everything in between. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Mon, Sun<br />
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. JUEW<br />
Drink Bar Comedy Night D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel.<br />
(+372) 644 94 33, drinkbaar@live.com, www.drinkbaar.<br />
com. Every second Wednesday of each month is Comedy<br />
Night at the Drink Bar and we quite enjoyed ourselves the last<br />
time we were there. There were of course a few mandatory<br />
groans mixed into the stew pot of chuckles, but the atmosphere<br />
was all good - so too the hearty pub favourites. They<br />
bring in comedians from all over Northern Europe to round out<br />
a few regular expats and a handful of Estonian comics. Be<br />
sure to show up early as it tends be standing room only by<br />
the time 20:00 rolls around. Q Every second Wednesday of<br />
each month, show starts at 20:00. Admission €5. JKXW<br />
Rock Cafe H-4, Tartu mnt. 80d, 3rd floor, rc@rockcafe.ee,<br />
www.rockcafe.ee. Built into an old factory building just past the<br />
city's bus station, this minimalist, two-story rock club is decidedly<br />
raw and industrial. Live acts - mainly rock but sometimes blues or<br />
funk - are booked every weekend, and the place boasts one of the<br />
best sound systems of any club in Estonia. Enter the courtyard, go<br />
right and up the stairs. Please note that you may find them open<br />
only when there are live acts scheduled. See website for details.<br />
QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Admission €3 - 9. LEX<br />
new<br />
Salong Shah B-3, Pikk 39, tel. (+372) 646 37 22/(+372)<br />
56 68 53 38, www.salongshah.ee. This reincarnation of a very<br />
secretive and private club overlooking the bustling Pikk street has<br />
transformed itself into a chic little Jazz club and lounge, fit even for<br />
the former Shah of Iran. They have live music nights once a week<br />
called the ‘Jazz Ministry’ featuring talented local and international<br />
artists as well, on other nights you’ll be able to hear the sounds of<br />
an experienced Jazz DJ. Fine selection of wines, cocktails and light<br />
bites are on offer as is a smoking lounge. See the ad located in our<br />
guide for program details.QOpen Tue, Wed, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J6EXW<br />
Scotland Yard B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 653 51 90,<br />
scotlandyard@scotlandyard.ee, www.scotlandyard.ee. An<br />
absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard<br />
earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-department<br />
interior, which even includes toilets done up like electric chairs!<br />
Sadly, people have died of old age waiting to get a drink at the bar.<br />
Rock-type bands take to the stage on weekends, and despite its<br />
gargantuan size, the place often fills to the brim. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. Admission free. JLEW<br />
Von Krahl C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. (+372) 626 90<br />
90, baar@vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee. The real name<br />
is 'Von Krahli Baar' but regulars just call it 'Krahl.' This downto-earth<br />
pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn's<br />
alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends<br />
towards students, punks and artsy types. Come by during the<br />
day for good, cheap pub food. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 03:00. JEW<br />
Bars & Pubs<br />
Assorted watering holes, each with its own style.<br />
Bayern&Böhmen Keller D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372)<br />
644 47 33, bbkeller@hot.ee, www.bbkeller.ee. Ah, Bavaria<br />
- the rolling hills, the great beer, the lederhosen, sturdy women<br />
with overflowing and abundant cleavage, the mouth-watering<br />
sausages and succulent schnitzels... we apologise for getting<br />
your hopes up, but you won’t find any of that here. What you will<br />
find is a, somewhat, nicely decorated cellar pub which belongs<br />
to a rather large chain of Estonian pubs that litter the country<br />
and serve very average pub cuisine to locals who have gotten<br />
used to greasy unimaginative food that is often heated up in<br />
the microwave and served with French fries covered in French<br />
fry seasoning. Und das ist nicht wunderbar. QOpen 11:30<br />
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. JXSW<br />
Brewery Beer Club (Brewery Õlleklubi) C-2, Pikk 1,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 36 31, info@brewery.ee, www.brewery.<br />
ee. With 47 different beers to choose from (including Stella<br />
on tap), a stylish interior and excellent service - BBC certainly<br />
has a lot going for it. The cuisine did not quite live up to our<br />
expectations though. With the Estonian favourite, ‘potato<br />
seasoning’, blanketing our fries and a burger that literally fell<br />
apart in our hands under the weight of what appeared to be<br />
Caesar salad dressing - this addition to Tallinn’s dining and<br />
drinking scene, fell a little flat when we last visited but we have<br />
been assured they are trying to improve upon what could be<br />
a really good thing. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 -<br />
04:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:00. (€11). JUIEXW<br />
Citypub D-4, Rävala pst. 6, tel. (+372) 681 46 15, citypub@citypub.ee,<br />
www.citypub.ee. A small pub across from<br />
the Radisson hotel, Citypub caters mainly to hungry people<br />
working in the area, but could just as easily work as an earlyevening<br />
warm-up spot. Lunch specials from 12:00 to 15:00;<br />
hot food and salads all day. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. 6UW<br />
Drink Bar & Grill D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 644 94<br />
33, drinkbaar@live.com, www.drinkbaar.com. It’s evident<br />
there’s a passion for beer culture here, not only in its name<br />
‘Drink Bar & Grill’ but overall, offering natural and ‘live’ beers,<br />
a special ‘house brew’, unusual imports and even organic<br />
and ‘still’ ciders. On a typical evening you’ll find a lively bunch<br />
of patrons from all over the world; backpackers, locals and<br />
ex-pats all seem to congregate here. Whatever category<br />
you might fit into you’ll be sure to have feel at home here,<br />
imbibing in a ‘drink’ or otherwise. Check out their fantastic<br />
beer shop, located just around the corner, see p. 88. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (€7). J6IXW<br />
Wine bars<br />
<strong>In</strong> recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated,<br />
mature alternative in this overly beer-centric<br />
town.<br />
Gloria Veinikelder D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. (+372)<br />
640 68 04, vein@gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. The<br />
shop section is charming enough, but wind your way to<br />
the back rooms to find one of the Tallinn’s most elegant<br />
places to enjoy a good Merlot. An expert is always<br />
on hand to help you choose from the ca. 2000 wines,<br />
cognacs and whiskeys available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Sun. JIS<br />
<strong>In</strong> Vino Veritas C-2, Lai 6, tel. (+372) 641 84 40,<br />
restoran@invinoveritas.ee, www.invinoveritas.ee.<br />
More of a full-on restaurant than wine-bar, it’s a quaint<br />
little place with an atmosphere that makes you want to<br />
settle in for a while. The menu isn’t huge, but the assortment<br />
of cheeses, pastas and fresh mains are pleasing to<br />
even the most fickle of tastes, and needless to say, the<br />
selection of wines here make it that much better. Dining<br />
in the wine cellar available for small groups. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. JI<br />
MarcoVino B-2, Lai 26, tel. (+372) 672 20 55/<br />
(+372) 55 96 11 54, info@marcovino.ee, www.<br />
marcovino.ee. What it lacks in size, this tiny wine-bar<br />
makes up for in spirit. Owned and operated by one of Tallinn’s<br />
Italian transplants, this sip-sized vinoteque serves<br />
up a good number of fine Italian wines alongside some<br />
savoury bites from the ‘Old Country’. Space is limited,<br />
but the possibilities are endless. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00.<br />
Closed Mon. JW<br />
Old Estonia C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. (+372)<br />
641 21 83, info@oldestonia.ee, www.oldestonia.<br />
ee. Its location right on Raekoja plats makes this the<br />
most central and visible of Tallinn’s wine bars, but Old<br />
Estonia still manages to keep up a standard of personal<br />
and friendly service. The huge windows overlooking<br />
the square were just made for people-watching, or<br />
spying, depending on how you look at it. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:00. JW<br />
Osteria del Gallo Nero C-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 646 21 07, osteria@italbaltica.com, www.<br />
osteriagallonero.com. Personality is everything, and<br />
that’s exactly what you’ll find at this cosy Italian food<br />
shop/café. The owners turn it into lively - albeit tiny -<br />
wine bar at night. They’ll mingle with you and may even<br />
encourage you to sing along with the stereo. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 -<br />
24:00. JSW<br />
Wine Library C-2, Raekoja plats 8/Kinga 6, tel.<br />
(+372) 641 12 20, info@winelibrary.ee, www.<br />
winelibrary.ee. Probably the best thing about this<br />
place right on Town Hall Square is just that - it’s on Town<br />
Hall Square. Re-branded as a wine bar, this former café<br />
does indeed have an extensive wine selection, but it’s<br />
a little too small to be effective enough in this category.<br />
Not to say that you shouldn’t stop in though, just that<br />
there are certainly better places in Old Town for the<br />
‘Wine Aficionado’. If it’s a decent glass of fermented<br />
grapes your after and a good view, it certainly fits the<br />
bill. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. JW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
52 nightlife nightlife 53<br />
Imperial Pub B/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. (+372) 627 48<br />
05, pubi@imperial.ee, www.imperial.ee. A little off the<br />
beaten track but still not a hike to get to, the Imperial is<br />
a cosy, quiet place perfect for large groups or even just<br />
a few close friends. With its hearty food, cheap beer and<br />
hits from the 80’s streaming quietly through the speakers,<br />
this classic pub feels like a warm and friendly second living<br />
room. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (€7.70).<br />
TJUISW<br />
Island Bar & Cafe G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372)<br />
610 99 00, info@island-cafe.ee, www.island-cafe.ee.<br />
It works as a nondescript lunch café by day, but at night<br />
Island really comes into its own as a popular drinking lounge<br />
and warm-up spot for nearby clubs. The real hit seems to<br />
be the cocktail happy hour, which happens runs... all day,<br />
now that’s a ‘Happy Day’ if you ask us. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
02:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 04:00. W<br />
Shooter bars<br />
Loads of bars in Old Town offer shots or shooters but<br />
these places seem to specialise in them.<br />
Hullumaja Baar C-2, Suur-Karja 11, tel. (+372)<br />
58 33 83 39. It’s pretty craz-e-e-e-e... Hulumaja means<br />
‘nuthouse’ in English and given the low shooters prices,<br />
a few hours spent here can certainly end up contributing<br />
to a less than sharp mental state. The interior décor is<br />
a little lacking, we would have liked to see all manner of<br />
freaky medical instruments hanging on the walls, but a<br />
smattering of signs, padded walls and shots served in<br />
urine cups get the point across. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. See Facebook page for up-to-date<br />
shots prices. J<br />
Kohvik Noorus C-2, Lai 10, tel. (+372) 600 53 73,<br />
rekkalesbi@kohviknoorus.ee, www.kohviknoorus.<br />
ee. We promised some of our friends that we wouldn’t<br />
give this place too good a review as we always seem to<br />
ruin a good thing by letting too many tourists in on it -<br />
but friends don’t pay our bills. Cheap drinks, free flowing<br />
shooters and gorgeous girls who might even show you<br />
their boobs for a couple of shots, abound at this locale.<br />
This place is awesome. There - we said it, and only<br />
feel mildly bad about it. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue. J<br />
Labor C-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 58 33 83 39.<br />
‘Labor’ which means ‘lab’ in English is pretty much just<br />
that - they’ve got loads of experimental shooters on the<br />
menu, served in holders containing ten test tubes. If you’d<br />
prefer to sip your chemical concoctions, they also offer<br />
an explosion of other science-themed cocktails, certain<br />
to please even you got an ‘F’ in chemistry. Spending<br />
too much time here could be hazardous to your health.<br />
QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. J<br />
Shooters C-2, Suur-Karja 4, tel. (+372) 600 22 20,<br />
info@shooters.ee, www.shooters.ee. As the name<br />
quite obviously implies, Shooters is pretty much all about<br />
the booze. Add to that its location on one of the busier<br />
bar streets in Old Town and the ongoing special of 5<br />
shots for €5 and ding-ding-ding, we have got ourselves a<br />
winner - or a lot of losers depending on your perspective.<br />
QOpen 11:30 - 04:00, Wed, Thu 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat<br />
11:30 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. JEW<br />
Karoliina Bar D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 05. This<br />
quirky little bar shaped like a tunnel and dug into the hill heading<br />
up to Toompea is excellent option for a secluded, quiet<br />
catch up with friends. Stretched cow skins and fake rose<br />
vines along the walls make an odd decorative combination.<br />
Try the Karoliina special - hot wine spiked with spirits. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. J<br />
Kompressor C-2, Rataskaevu 3, tel. (+372) 646 42 10,<br />
egiid@hot.ee, www.kompressorpub.ee. Students in particular<br />
seem to be drawn to this simple, unassuming bar with<br />
oversized tables and cheap drinks. Kompressor is also locally<br />
famous for its excellent pancakes, which are both cheap and<br />
filling. Kitchen closes at 22:00. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JN<br />
Must Pada B-3, Uus 25, tel. (+372) 608 87 50/(+372)<br />
505 55 28, info@mustpada.ee, www.mustpada.ee. This<br />
reincarnation of a longtime, local watering hole hasn’t changed<br />
much, except for perhaps the name and the story of why it<br />
exists at all. Not to be unfair however, it serves up traditional<br />
Estonian pub-fare, decently priced liquid refreshments and<br />
even has a small play-corner for the young drinkers-in-training.<br />
At Must Pada, what you see is what you get - so don’t expect<br />
too much and you just might end up with a decent experience.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 -<br />
23:00. TJ6SW<br />
Őlletorn H-3, Liivalaia 40, tel. (+372) 660 60 10, info@<br />
olletorn.ee, www.olletorn.ee. If beer is your passion and<br />
you’d rather hang out with locals than expats, you may want<br />
to check out the ‘Beer Tower’ cleverly hidden behind some<br />
apartment blocks near the Stockmann department store.<br />
We’re still trying to figure out if it’s the 101 beer varieties, the<br />
ominously glowing fish tank or occasional live act that keeps<br />
drawing the largely Estonian crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. EX<br />
Põrgu C-2, Rüütli 4, tel. (+372) 644 02 32, porgu@<br />
porgu.ee, www.porgu.ee. A great place to grab a decently<br />
prepared bite or an interesting beer, Põrgu or Hell in Estonian<br />
is worth a visit. Ironically enough it’s situated in a cellar but we<br />
didn’t notice any roaring fire the last time we visited - unless<br />
of course you can call candle flames roaring. You’ll be able to<br />
find a good selection of Estonian micro-brews here as well.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
St. Patrick’s C/D-2, Suur-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 641 81<br />
73, info@patricks.ee, www.patricks.ee. The name and<br />
décor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn’s four St.<br />
Patrick’s pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. The<br />
one here on Suur-Karja is the most famous, cleverly built into a<br />
spacious, medieval hall. All offer decent, cheap food, and every<br />
fourth Saku Originaal is always free. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. 631<br />
48 01. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at:<br />
E-2, Pärnu mnt 20, tel. 669 18 16. Open 11:00 - 02:00,<br />
Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt 5, tel: 664<br />
04 43. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 11:00 - 04:00. J6W<br />
The Dubliner D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 644 46<br />
94, dubliner@hot.ee, www.dubliner.ee. Part of a large<br />
Estonian chain of mediocre pubs, the most Irish thing about<br />
the Dubliner is the Guinness beer on tap and the picture<br />
of Bono on the wall. The microwaved garlic cheese bread,<br />
lacklustre service and soggy schnitzel left us feeling a little<br />
limp. Needless to say, we were rather unimpressed with our<br />
overall experience, but we hear that it can be a fun place<br />
for drinks and an inexpensive lunch - we’ll let you decide for<br />
yourself. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (€7). JSW<br />
The Hard Currency Bar (Valuuta baar) C-4, Viru<br />
väljak 4, Sokos Hotel Viru, tel. (+372) 680 93 00, www.<br />
sokoshotels.com. Located inside Sokos Hotel Viru, the Hard<br />
Currency Bar attempts to bring a little nostalgia back to Tallinn<br />
and it pretty much looks like it did during the Soviet times when<br />
it was pretty much the only bar where foreigners were officially<br />
allowed to go. Back then you could find prostitutes and swarthy<br />
thick-necks who would try to buy ‘hard currency’ from you as well<br />
as set you up with one of their ‘lady friends’. The experience is<br />
rounded out by popular Soviet music from the 1970’s and 80’s<br />
and the a cocktail list featuring some of the favourite drinks of the<br />
time - only they’ll cost you a little more. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Mon, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. J<br />
The Shamrock Pub C-3, Viru 24, tel. (+372) 631 31<br />
36, merike24@msn.com. Though strewn with off-the-shelf<br />
Irish décor, Shamrock’s character seems mostly derived from<br />
its high-traffic location at the foot of Viru tänav. It’s often<br />
packed by a transient, motley crowd of tourists and locals,<br />
many drawn in by the karaoke or sports events shown on the<br />
large-screen TV. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.<br />
Age restriction in the evenings 18+. JXW<br />
Vana Wiru Pub C-3, Viru 11, tel. (+372) 669 15 10,<br />
pub@vanawiru.ee, www.vanawiru.ee. A no-nonsense,<br />
classic pub with hints of an Old Tallinn theme. Vana Wiru’s<br />
ideal, Viru street location that makes it a convenient stopping<br />
place for families to hunker down with their drinks. Check out<br />
the interesting jukebox selections. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. TJUGS<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Casinos<br />
Although slowly becoming more scarce, Tallinn is<br />
swimming with so-called ‘slot halls,’ which have gaming<br />
machines only. A few casinos, however, offer real<br />
gaming tables, meaning blackjack, poker, roulette, etc.<br />
Casino Grand Prix D-2, Vana-Posti 8 (Club Hollywood<br />
building), tel. (+372) 641 95 53, www.<br />
grandprix.ee. Though it’s pretty much all slot machines<br />
and electronic roulette, this roomy place in an Old Town<br />
cinema is a cut above the usual. Q Open 24hrs. J<br />
Olympic Casino & Lounge H-4, Kreuzwaldi 23,<br />
Reval Park Hotel & Casino, tel. (+372) 1677, info@<br />
oc.eu, www.olympic-casino.com. Tallinn’s largest, most<br />
complete and glitziest casino is the Olympic’s flagship<br />
branch, in the Reval Park Hotel. They offer slots, blackjack,<br />
poker, roulette and a snazzy lounge where you can either<br />
take a break between gambling or just hang out with<br />
friends for a drink or three. Q Open 24hrs. Age restriction<br />
21+. Also at: C-4, Vana-Viru 14. Open 24hrs. JEX<br />
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Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
54 nightlife nightlife 55<br />
Hookah joints<br />
Perhaps due to the fact that many Estonians holiday in<br />
Egypt where shisha smoking is pretty much a humanright,<br />
there are loads of establishments around town<br />
that offer a puff. Here we have listed just a few that<br />
specialise in the pastime.<br />
Calif Oriental Lounge C-3, Müürivahe 23a, tel.<br />
(+372) 55 51 05 60, www.calif.ee. A lot more expensive<br />
and elaborate than the other Hookah establishments<br />
around the city, the interior certainly is pretty fancy though<br />
as is the selection of tobaccos and other eastern delights.<br />
QOpen 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. JX<br />
Vesipiibu Kohvik (Water Pipe Café) E-2, Tatari 1,<br />
tel. (+372) 56 46 46 06, andres@vesipiibukohvik.ee,<br />
www.vesipiibukohvik.ee. Certainly a tongue-twister for<br />
most foreigners, the vesi-piibu-koh-vik is quite a relaxing<br />
place to while away your afternoons, or evenings. Those<br />
evenings may even turn into weeks, months or years if<br />
you’re not too careful. Actually, we just confused this place<br />
with an opium den, never mind. Live belly dance shows on<br />
weekends are certain to be a hit - get it? QOpen 11:00<br />
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Age<br />
restriction 18+. LXW<br />
Bars of the world<br />
Why waste money on more world travel when you can see<br />
it all right from Tallinn - and get pleasantly intoxicated in<br />
the process?<br />
Arizona Saloon C-3, Viru 6, tel. (+372) 627 29 87,<br />
arizonasaloon@gmail.com. Overpriced beer, tacky cowboy<br />
décor and a location on Viru tänav are evidently all it takes to<br />
pull in herds of unsuspecting Finnish tourists. Compared to<br />
the other traps on this street though, at least this one has<br />
nice furniture. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.<br />
(€11.50). JEXW<br />
Beer Garden C-4, Aia 10 / <strong>In</strong>seneri 1, tel. (+372) 688<br />
00 13, info@beergarden.com, www.beergarden.ee.<br />
Although certainly a bit of a tourist trap, the Bavarian-themed<br />
Beer Garden is quite nicely decorated and the food quality<br />
is rather decent for a locale of its genre. We did feel though<br />
that the cuisine is fairly international and several notable<br />
Bavarian-specialities (ie. Schnitzel) were missing from the<br />
menu. They do however have something called a beer-buffet<br />
from 16:00-19:00, which is all you can drink for €15 - handy<br />
that they have bench seating to deal with the aftermath. Live<br />
music can be enjoyed on weekends. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,<br />
Thu 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. (€8). JEW<br />
Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. (+372) 644 22 22, info@<br />
beerhouse.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. So, how much German<br />
oompah music can you stand? Just teasing, they do play other<br />
beer-drinking favorites as well. This enormous, old-fashioned,<br />
Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a landmark in Tallinn.<br />
That said, the sprawling restaurant just off Town Hall Square<br />
is also Tallinn's only microbrewery, serving seven very decent<br />
in-house varieties. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -<br />
02:00. Age restriction 18+. PJEXS<br />
Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina B-3, Pikk 43, tel.<br />
(+372) 631 17 55, texas@texas.ee, www.texas.ee.<br />
Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night,<br />
Tallinn's Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back<br />
a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock<br />
or old blues played in the stereo. Monster portions of fries<br />
will kill even the worst munchies. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 01:00. J6IESW<br />
The Lost Continent G-4, Narva mnt. 19, tel. (+372)<br />
662 36 65, info@lostcontinent.ee, www.lostcontinent.<br />
ee. This Aussie-style pub finally got rid of its inane and<br />
predictable ‘Wombat X-ing' kitsch and turned the place into<br />
a kind of trendy lounge. It's still a bit far from the centre to<br />
be a wildly popular nighttime hangout, but it nevertheless<br />
attracts a decent-sized crowd, and you can get a 5-litre<br />
Foster's beer bong if your bladder needs a workout. QOpen<br />
11:30 - 23:00, Wed 11:30 - 24:00, Thu 11:30 - 01:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 11:30 - 02:00. EW<br />
Artsy/underground<br />
The raw underbelly of Tallinn’s music and art scene will be<br />
appealing only to more adventurous travellers.<br />
Depeche Mode C-2, Voorimehe 4, tel. (+372) 631<br />
43 08, bar@depechemode.ee, www.depechemode.ee.<br />
Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so it’s only fair that Tallinn<br />
has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans,<br />
this is just a friendly dive bar stuffed with fan memorabilia.<br />
But if you’re a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all<br />
you ever needed. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. Age restriction<br />
18+. JEXW<br />
Hoov C-3, entrance through passage next to Viru 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 55 66 44 99, info@hoov.eu, www.hoov.eu. Situated<br />
in a courtyard and old cinema house, Hoov certainly is<br />
a whole lot of artsy and underground. Expect performances<br />
from all sorts of genres and disciplines to take place here.<br />
This is where Tallinn’s ‘up and coming’ musicians, artists and<br />
just the right amount of eccentric ‘movers and shakers’ like<br />
to hang and put themselves on display. We’re not 100% sure<br />
that this venue doesn’t break any health-code or safety violations,<br />
but the risks kind of add to the atmosphere. QOpen<br />
22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. See Facebook page for<br />
upcoming events and prices. JEW<br />
Kodu Baar B-2, Vaimu 1, tel. (+372) 56 46 79 77, info@<br />
kodubaar.ee, www.kodubaar.ee. Formerly a little bar called<br />
Juuksur, nothing has really changed since the name change.<br />
It’s still a stone cellar full of mismatched furniture and art<br />
nerds. The bar’s name means ‘Home Bar’, so naturally it<br />
kind of feels like a student’s second living room. Expect live<br />
bands on some nights and inexpensive bottled beer. QOpen<br />
16:00 - 04:00. J<br />
Koht C-2, Lai 8. Koht literally means ‘Place’ in Estonian<br />
and indeed this is a place - tiny as it might be. A smattering<br />
of intellectuals, foreigners, students and other random<br />
individuals seem to fill every nook and cranny pretty much<br />
every night they’re open - which indeed happens to be their<br />
opening hours. Q JIXW<br />
Kuku Klubi D-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. (+372) 644<br />
58 64, info@kukuklubi.ee, www.kukuklubi.ee. Reaching<br />
unmatched heights in retro shabbiness, Kuku is a lovably<br />
tacky cellar hangout where Tallinn’s old artists get loaded<br />
on red wine, talk philosophy, or on weekends, dance to 80s<br />
hits. You have to have a club card to open the door, but you<br />
can also just hang out by the entrance and wait for someone<br />
to come in or out. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00, Fri 11:30 - 03:00,<br />
Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. These days usually<br />
just open for special events, see Facebook page for details.<br />
JIEW<br />
Levist väljas B-3, Olevimägi 12, tel. (+372) 50<br />
46 048, vaari@hot.ee. Tallinn’s most grotty, seedy<br />
and all-around diviest dive bar. Students, Rastafarians<br />
and rockers alike congregate in this medieval cellar bar<br />
known for cheap drinks and uninhibited fun. Levist is usually<br />
people’s last stop of the night after drinking heavily<br />
elsewhere. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 06:00.<br />
Age restriction 18+. J6ENXW<br />
Protest B-4, Roseni 9a, tel. (+372) 660 29 50,<br />
protest@protest.ee, www.protest.ee. What started<br />
out as a temporary locale in a building due for demolition,<br />
has turned into a hotbed of artful dodgers, where the<br />
cheap drinks flow and the music is loud and poignant.<br />
The posters advertising upcoming events are handdrawn,<br />
the floors are often sticky and the atmosphere<br />
is über relaxed. The party hangs on until you do and if<br />
you’ve ended up having one too many, you’ll be happy<br />
to know that there’s a cheap hostel right next-door. Q<br />
From 14:00 until the party is over. Admission €0 - 6. Age<br />
restriction 18+. J6LW<br />
Woodstock E-2, Tatari 6, tel. (+372) 660 49 15,<br />
tere@woodstock.ee, www.woodstock.ee. Although<br />
Woodstock does not have a whole lot to do with the fabled<br />
summer of love held on American farm land back in 1969,<br />
the natives here are quite friendly and into ‘the rock’ as<br />
it were. It is after all a dive-bar where the atmosphere is<br />
relaxed and the food hearty and inexpensive. On weekend<br />
evenings, head downstairs to Rockstars for some live<br />
music or some head-banging-good rock presented by<br />
long-haired DJs dressed in the traditional black. If girls<br />
in tight jeans who drink ‘Jäger’ are your thing, this is the<br />
place to be. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. E<br />
Gay nightlife<br />
Tallinn’s gay scene isn’t a large one by any means,<br />
but that doesn’t mean those looking to play with local<br />
queers will be left wanting. Here’s the short and curly<br />
list of where to let it all ‘hang’ out, so to speak.<br />
G-punkt E-2, Pärnu mnt. 23 (entrance from Tatari<br />
street), tel. (+372) 644 05 52, info@gpunkt.ee,<br />
www.gpunkt.ee. One of the oldest gay joints in the<br />
city and geared mainly to Estonia’s Russian community,<br />
‘G-spot’ offers up fun times for both sexes who happen to<br />
be looking for a good time, with the same sex. Loads of<br />
activities and amenities are guaranteed to hit the spot,<br />
as it were. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon<br />
- Thu, Sun. Age restriction 18+. JXW<br />
X-Baar E-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 644 01 21, info@<br />
xbaar.ee, www.xbaar.ee. If you want to know everything<br />
there is to know about the local gay culture, come<br />
to Tallinn’s oldest gay bar. The unofficial command centre<br />
for the city’s gay scene, X-Baar has acquired a new, threefloored<br />
location complete with a small terrace, billiard<br />
table and loyal customers (both men and women) keep it<br />
lively by piling onto the dance floor. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. Admission free.<br />
Age restriction 18+. JXW<br />
massage<br />
Hedone is an exclusive oriental massage club in the heart of old town Tallinn.<br />
Hedone offers several massages:<br />
Massage price includes relaxation in our main room.<br />
General massage 40 €<br />
Aromatic massage 43 €<br />
Cellulite massage 40 €<br />
Sensual massage 60 €<br />
Erotic massage 75 €<br />
Soap-erotic massage 100 €<br />
Reservation is recommended.<br />
Hedone welcomes groups up to twenty people!<br />
We have full bar and water-pipes!<br />
Mon, Tue, Sun open 11:00 - 02:00<br />
Hedone is open<br />
Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00-06:00<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
At night (00:00-06:00)<br />
Special Erotic massage only<br />
50 € *<br />
Sauna 1, Tallinn / tel +372 6313 404 / www.hedone.ee<br />
* 10% discount does not apply for 50 EUR Special Erotic massage.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
58 nightlife nightlife 59<br />
Trendy lounge bars<br />
Dress to impress and mingle with Tallinn's trendy club<br />
types or upwardly mobile elite.<br />
Butterfly Lounge C-4, Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, tel. (+372)<br />
56 90 37 03, getter@kokteilibaar.ee, www.kokteilibaar.<br />
ee. When we were last here we got the distinct feeling that<br />
this lounge was geared primarily towards the ladies. Perhaps<br />
it was the pink-clad waiters, overall butterfly motif, frou-frou<br />
menu items and more cock... tails than you can shake a stick<br />
at that made us feel this way, but if you want to spend the<br />
evening hanging out with a harem of beautiful dames this<br />
just might be the perfect place. Excellent service. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat<br />
15:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Age restriction 18+. J6EW<br />
Deja Vu C-3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 55,<br />
info@dejavu.ee, www.dejavu.ee. Now that it has moved<br />
locations, this super-stylish restaurant/lounge/champagne<br />
embassy has only gotten better. There's more room, the location<br />
is prime and the kitchen, which churns out some fantastic<br />
food, is open until the wee hours. Pop by for the many special<br />
events, often involving champagne or lingerie - sometimes<br />
both, on Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00,<br />
Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. JEXSW<br />
El Niño D-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. (+372) 609 77 07, info@<br />
elnino.ee, www.elnino.ee. This lounge is a reincarnation<br />
of a reincarnation and with walk-down centre bar does kind of<br />
remind one of a tropical storm, as do the numerous blenders<br />
whipping up all manner of alcohol-laden cocktails. Although<br />
on weekend nights they do have their own DJs spinning<br />
house to funk, it's a decent place to grab a cocktail with<br />
some friends while waiting for the clubs to start pumping.<br />
QOpen , Wed, Thu 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00,<br />
Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue. JEW<br />
Embassy Lounge D-2, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 641<br />
22 02, info@embassy.ee, www.embassy.ee. Coming here<br />
is like spending time in your best friend's living room, only it's<br />
equipped with an extensive cocktail list. Overall nothing incredibly<br />
special but certainly comfortable and a good place to catch<br />
a few drinks and possibly a date for later on in the evening. For<br />
a more lively experience, stop by later in the night rather than<br />
earlier - that's when the cocktails kick in and the DJ tries to<br />
coax some of the more adventurous types to bust a move.<br />
The heavy, sex smell we experienced on our last visit though<br />
was both puzzling and confusing. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 05:00. JSW<br />
Lai V Bar C-2, Lai 5, tel. (+372) 616 11 88, info@bar5.ee,<br />
www.bar5.ee. Tucked into an Old Town cellar on Lai street,<br />
this lounge/restaurant/bar is decently stylish but not overly<br />
pretentious in its presentation. You'll be able to grab a decent<br />
meal here, enjoy some live DJ's on the weekend or just hang<br />
out with friends while enjoying a few 'well-crafted' cocktails.<br />
Sometimes simplicity works. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat<br />
10:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Age restriction<br />
21+. JW<br />
Lounge 24 H-3, Rävala pst. 3 (in Radisson Blu Hotel), tel.<br />
(+372) 682 34 24, info.tallinn@radissonblu.com, www.<br />
radissonblu.com/hotel-tallinn/dining/lounge-24. A full 90m<br />
above street level, the suave lounge on the Radisson's 24th floor<br />
is the place to come for drinks with a view. At night, the stylish,<br />
little bar turns its lights down low, letting the cityscape fill the<br />
windows and creating a romantic mood, but when the weather<br />
is warm, the outdoor terrace is the place to be. Cocktails and<br />
light meals on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. T<br />
Suite Lounge<br />
Pühavaimu 13/15, Tallinn<br />
Reservations: +372 699 7780<br />
www.suitelife.ee<br />
Shimo C-2, Kuninga 1, tel. (+372) 55 61 16 11/(+372)<br />
58 05 40 22, shimo.tallinn@hotmail.com. This old haunt<br />
in new clothing has somehow lost that love and feeling - not<br />
a bad place overall but somewhat pointless in our eyes. The<br />
last couple of times we popped in, it was only us and them and<br />
even though we heard music, there was an awkward silence.<br />
We hope it changes because we certainly like the location.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 15:00; 19:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 05:00,<br />
Sun 19:00 - 02:00. J6IEW<br />
Sohvabaar LaVie C-2, Rataskaevu 22, tel. (+372) 641<br />
34 14, info@sohvabaar.ee, www.sohvabaar.ee. Certainly<br />
has a nice atmosphere and interior but this little lounge is<br />
nothing special overall. <strong>In</strong> fact, we can't really tell the difference<br />
between it and the previous lounge that existed in the same<br />
spot. We're not saying "Don't check it out", just that there are<br />
better locales with more 'going on' in this category. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. JE<br />
Suite Lounge Tallinn C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel.<br />
(+372) 699 77 00, www.schlossle-hotels.com. Not just<br />
in Marbella anymore, the Suite Lounge has opened it's classy<br />
establishment in Tallinn as well. Expect the usual and unusual<br />
movers and shakers, some fancy cocktails and the décor to<br />
be amply supplied with a bevy of Russian Goddesses - and<br />
if their tanned skin is any indication, many of them spend<br />
ample time in Marbella. At any rate, if your lounging is to be<br />
first rate - Suite will sweeten your night. QOpen , Fri, Sat<br />
21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. JX<br />
Vabandust D-2, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. (+372) 503<br />
00 67, vabandust@vabandust.ee, www.vabandust.ee.<br />
'Excuse me' in English, Vabandust is more of an after-party<br />
than the main event - which is precisely how it's being positioned,<br />
even though it does open at 9pm. Overall nothing<br />
really special, but given it's proximity to a bunch of bars,<br />
clubs and lounges it certainly does draw a decent crowd,<br />
some reasonable DJs and can turn into quite a party in the<br />
wee hours. QOpen Fri, Sat 24:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon -<br />
Thu, Sun. J<br />
Midnight munchies<br />
If you’re looking for food and drink after the pubs close,<br />
don’t expect much of quality. Here are some options.<br />
Istanbul Café D-4, Estonia pst. 7, tel. (372) 55 59 79<br />
15. Dying for some döners done right? This kebab place is actually<br />
owned by real Turks who, as it turns out, also prepare the<br />
food. Here you can find mouth-watering pitas stuffed with loads<br />
of meat and veggies basted in several thick sauces. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JS<br />
Loca E-2, Tatari 1, tel. (+372) 55 51 52 35, info@loca.<br />
ee, www.loca.ee. Open late on Friday and Saturday nights,<br />
Loca isn’t too far to stumble from Old Town and they offer a<br />
little more variety than some of the kiosks in the centre. Pizzas<br />
will set you back about €5. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat<br />
11:00 - 07:00. JS<br />
Taco Express D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 682 55<br />
08, info@tacoexpress.ee, www.tacoexpress.ee. This<br />
little ‘tacos’n’more’ joint offers up some pretty spicy offerings<br />
alongside a few decent pizzas and is altogether centrally<br />
located enough that your newly acquired jello-legs will probably<br />
even manage to bring you here from most of the establishments<br />
offering up liquid courage in the area. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 07:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 10:00. (€4). JSW<br />
Clubs<br />
Tallinn has quite a bit to offer on the club-scene. From<br />
tacky to cutting edge, you'll certainly find something that<br />
fits your needs. The regular admittance age to most clubs<br />
is 18+, exceptions are listed at the end of our review.<br />
Arena 3 G-3, Sadama 6, clubarena3@hotmail.com,<br />
www.arena3.ee. Located a little off the beaten track in the<br />
port area, Arena 3 might easily be one of the biggest clubs in<br />
the vicinity of Old Town. The music is bumping and the crowd<br />
seemed to be a mix of Estonians and Russian-Estonians with<br />
a healthy dose of non-locals as well. We found the atmosphere<br />
quite reasonable, the drinks prices affordable and the<br />
large, rooftop terrace to be quite a bonus - at least during the<br />
warmer months. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed<br />
Mon - Wed, Sun. X<br />
BonBon B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 54 00 54 11,<br />
info@bonbon.ee, www.bonbon.ee. "The beautiful people,<br />
the beautiful people...", we have a feeling we already wrote<br />
that somewhere before. At any rate, the newly renovated<br />
Bon Bon - long a hot spot for Tallinn's 'most beautiful', still<br />
seemed to be teeming with an 'experienced' yet attractive<br />
crowd when we checked it out. Time will tell whether or not it'll<br />
be able to keep the elite interested, but it did seem to thin out<br />
a little around 3am. Drinks prices, as can be expected for an<br />
establishment like this, were quite high - guess that's how they<br />
keep the riff-raff out. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed<br />
Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €10. Age restriction 20+. LXW<br />
Café Amigo C-4, Viru väljak 4, (Sokos Hotel Viru), tel.<br />
(+372) 680 93 80, amigo@amigo.ee, www.amigo.ee.<br />
Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo attracts<br />
a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals<br />
who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys.<br />
The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the<br />
country's best-loved names - that play here almost nightly.<br />
Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance<br />
hits from the 70s-90s, and always manage to fill the floor<br />
with a cross-generational crowd. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission €5, Fri-Sat €8. Age restriction<br />
21+. JULEXW<br />
CatHouse C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610 14 30,<br />
cathouse@cathouse.ee, www.cathouse.ee. Billed as the<br />
sexiest club in Tallinn, it just might be that. They have some<br />
pretty sexy events, which happen fairly regularly, including<br />
Playboy parties, topless DJs and the occasional sex show. The<br />
crowd is primarily Russian, but the Slavs often have a leg up on<br />
the Estonians in terms of the 'fun factor'. We had an all right time<br />
when we were last there, but for some reason couldn't keep<br />
our eyes off of the DJ - perhaps it had something to do with<br />
the breasts. QOpen Wed, Thu 23:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 23:00<br />
- 05:00. Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission €3 - 10. LXW<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
60 nightlife nightlife 61<br />
Club Baila C-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 641 04 60, info@<br />
bailabaila.ee, www.bailabaila.ee. Baila, baila, baila - pretty<br />
much sums this intimate club up. The focus here is on fun,<br />
dancing, Latin rhythms, original cocktails and a care-free attitude...<br />
just like one might find on a tropical island. The interior<br />
is whimsical and colourful in order to keep the mood light. Great<br />
for those who've grown tired of big loud clubs filled with wannabe<br />
fashion victims. QOpen Wed, Thu 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat<br />
21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JXW<br />
Club Hollywood D-2, Vana-Posti 8, marili@bdg.ee,<br />
www.clubhollywood.ee. If there's one club in Tallinn that's<br />
guaranteed to be jumping, it's Hollywood, the mixing bowl<br />
for tourists and Tallinn's young (repeat, young) party crowd.<br />
The dance floor features raised platforms where scantily-clad<br />
go-go dancers jiggle to the beat. Wednesday night is ladies<br />
night - free entrance for girls, which pretty much guarantees<br />
a good time for the lads. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue, Sun. Admission €3 - 8. JLEX<br />
Club Münt D-3, Müürivahe 22, tel. (+372) 53 58 09 04,<br />
info@clubmynt.eu, www.clubmynt.eu. The former Spider<br />
club has new digs and a new name. Münt, which means both<br />
mint and coin in Estonian, probably won't leave your breath fresh<br />
and tasty but certainly will leave more coin in your pocket as<br />
they offer up €1 drinks. Expect all the grown-up fun that a place<br />
offering such cheap drinks has to offer and a healthy dose of<br />
girls wearing the amount of clothing a girl who can only afford €1<br />
drinks might be wearing. QOpen Wed, Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Tue, Sun. Admission €9.90. J<br />
Club Privé D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 56 25 60 00, info@<br />
clubprive.ee, www.clubprive.ee. Along with BonBon and<br />
Vabank, the smaller Privé is considered one of Tallinn's three<br />
trendiest club destinations. Heading here is a bit of a gamble<br />
though. If you hit it on the right night, it can be a very cool scene<br />
where you'll hear the region's or world's hottest DJs, but on the<br />
wrong night it's just another club full of fog and foreigners. The<br />
last time we checked in, the place was indeed packed and we<br />
witnessed the electronic sounds of a DJ from Ibiza - good times.<br />
Ask about their VIP packages. Friday nights are House nights<br />
and Saturday's are geared to the R'n'B crowd. QOpen Wed,<br />
Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon - Tue,<br />
Sun. Admission €7 - 14. Age restriction 20+. JEX<br />
Club Studio C-3, Sauna 1, tel. (+372) 56 66 65 26, info@<br />
clubstudio.ee, www.clubstudio.ee. Young, hip and one<br />
helluva queue to get into the place kind of gives you the idea<br />
of what Studio is all about. Probably the most popular place at<br />
the moment for the 18-25 crowd, Studio actually pumps out<br />
some pretty quality music from genres most of us 'old' people<br />
have never heard of. Dress youthful, drink plenty of Redbull<br />
and you'll fit in just fine. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Closed<br />
Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €10. J<br />
Panoraam G-3, Ahtri 10, tel. (+372) 611 61 44, info@<br />
clubpanoraam.ee, www.clubpanoraam.ee. Panoraam is a<br />
two story disco a short walk from Old Town that places a heavy<br />
emphasis on its schedule of Estonian pop acts. When a good<br />
concert is on, it can draw hundreds of teenagers and a few lost<br />
and drooling easyJet travellers. Otherwise it's about as exciting<br />
as a hotel lobby in Oslo. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed<br />
Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €7-8. ULEXW<br />
Parlament H-3, Ahtri 10, tel. (+372) 611 61 45, clubparlament@clubparlament.com,<br />
www.clubparlament.<br />
com. Even though this long-time club has changed locations,<br />
it appears as though not much at all has changed here - it's<br />
allright as far as clubs go, but just nothing special. <strong>In</strong>side you'll<br />
find a mix of Russians and Estonians and depending on the<br />
Sauna 1,Tallinn<br />
www.bailabaila.ee info@bailabaila.ee<br />
night it will be more or less of the other. Last time we went they<br />
had an imported 'topless' DJ from the Uklraine who actually<br />
had silicone sprayed onto her breasts - not really topless now<br />
is that. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun.<br />
Admission €7 - 25. ULEXW<br />
Partei D-4, Rävala pst. 8, info@parteiklubi.ee, www.<br />
parteiklubi.ee. More of an underground place than a mainstream<br />
club, Partei packs in a typically younger, substancefuelled<br />
crowd than the top-40 places. If you don't know what<br />
Breakbeat, Jungle, Drum´n´Bass, Techstep, Atmo, Liquid,<br />
Neuro, Jump-Up and Darkside are then you will probably feel a<br />
bit like Alice in Wonderland - before she drank the bottle that<br />
had "drink me" written on it. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €3 - 8. J<br />
Plub C-3, Valli 1, tel. (+372) 631 11 38/(+372) 56 92 00<br />
52, plub@plub.ee, www.plub.ee. Is it a pub? Is it a club? As<br />
the very inventive name suggests, the owners couldn't quite<br />
decide and as the nearly empty venue suggested to us - most<br />
passers-by couldn't decide to go in either. But how can that be?<br />
It's the 'Best Nightclub in Old Town' and they have 1,275 fans<br />
on Facebook. As far as we could tell though, it does have a few<br />
good things going for it - both the admission price and drinks<br />
prices are quite reasonable for a club given its location. Picks<br />
up in the wee hours of the morning. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00,<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 07:00. J<br />
Tapper J-2, Pärnu mnt 158g, tel. (+372) 654 75 18, info@<br />
tapper.ee, www.tapper.ee. This rock club on the edge of<br />
Tallinn’s centre holds regular rock nights, loads of local and<br />
international concerts, live events and even something called<br />
‘heavy aerobics’ three times per week - which is certain to get<br />
a whole lot sweatier than the regular type of aerobics. We hear<br />
this club fits like a well worn leather jacket drenched in Jack<br />
Daniels, we’ll let you see for yourselves. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00,<br />
Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. UEXW<br />
Teater D-2, Vabaduse väljak 5, tel. (+372) 56 88 44 44,<br />
info@klubiteater.ee, www.klubiteater.ee. One of the most<br />
interesting and elaborate clubs to hit Tallinn in recent memory,<br />
Teater takes advantage of its location in an old theatre and<br />
certainly provides the club-goer with a theatrical experience.<br />
Drinks can tend to be a bit pricey, but the overall ambiance, live<br />
performances and the opportunity to mingle with an upwardly<br />
mobile crowd makes it all worth it. QOpen Fri, Sat 23:00 -<br />
05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €8. Age restriction<br />
20+. JEXW<br />
Vabank D-2, Harju 13, tel. (+372) 660 52 99, info@vabank.<br />
ee, www.vabank.ee. Vabank is a large nightclub at the edge<br />
of Old Town, housed in what is a former bank where, currently,<br />
Tallinn's beautiful people hang out listening to rather unimaganitive<br />
house music and sipping on pricey cocktails. If that is your<br />
idea of a good time, so be it. A couple of cool features of note<br />
though, the VIP bedrooms off to either side of the dance floor<br />
and the private room downstairs in the former vault. QOpen Fri,<br />
Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon - Thu, Sun. Admission €8. From<br />
23:00 - 23:30, ladies free. Age restriciton 21+. J<br />
Venus C-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. (+372) 551 99 99, venus@<br />
venusclub.ee, www.venusclub.ee. Rows of classical cherub<br />
statues added to an Arabian dessert motif may give the impression<br />
of a palace decorator gone mad, but the overriding<br />
mood at Venus is of serious partying and flirting by a mixed<br />
foreign and Estonian crowd. The last time we popped in it was<br />
just around midnight and Venus was already bumping and<br />
grinding to full capacity - let's just say that we'll certainly be<br />
back. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Admission €0 - 7. Age restriction<br />
21+. JXW<br />
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October - November 2012
62 nightlife<br />
Adult entertainment<br />
Don't expect to partake from afar. If they perform on stage<br />
at all, dancers in Tallinn's striptease clubs typically visit the<br />
tables, getting up close and personal to collect tips, usually<br />
€3 - 5. While between performances on the stage, other<br />
dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ‘ladies'<br />
cocktail', which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you<br />
and making dull small talk. Gentlemen's clubs have recently<br />
been popping up everywhere in Old Town, here we have listed<br />
just a few of them.<br />
Alcatraz Club A-4, Sadama 6/8, tel. (+372) 661<br />
48 88, alcatraz@alcatrazclub.ee, www.alcatrazclub.<br />
ee. Although the name might not be the most original, (it<br />
seems that there's a club called Alcatraz in most major<br />
cities throughout Eastern Europe) the concept, at least as<br />
far as gentlemen's clubs go, is unique. Jail cages replace<br />
the traditional stripper pole, the space is larger than most<br />
and the dancers take turns wearing topless jailbird outfits to<br />
wait on the tables. The entrance fee is a little high, however,<br />
it does include a welcome drink. The booze is a reasonable<br />
price and from what we could see, the girls are certainly<br />
worth ‘spending' some time with. QOpen 12:00 - 07:00.<br />
Admission €20. XW<br />
Börsi Gentlemen's Club C-2, Lai 7, tel. (+372) 641<br />
19 59/(+372) 58 12 00 24, info@borsibaar.ee, www.<br />
borsibaar.ee. Börsi is the cheap alternative - that's cheap<br />
in just about every sense of the word. The friendly, low-key,<br />
basement venue is popular with a few foreigners in-the-know.<br />
If you do acquiesce to splurging for a 'ladies' drink' for your<br />
conversation partner, just make sure it's not the €58 champagne.<br />
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8,<br />
age restriction 21+. J<br />
Can-Can Room D-2, Suur-Karja 10 (in The Old Club), tel.<br />
(+372) 683 52 06/(+372) 55 51 40 78, www.oldclub.ee.<br />
Forget about sneaking into this place unseen - the entrance is<br />
inside Tallinn's busiest late-night drinking hole. The club is decent<br />
enough, about average for Tallinn. If you're going to splurge<br />
for a private dance, make sure you pay a little extra for the<br />
'erotic' one. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission €6.40. JW<br />
Lady's Shadow C-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 631 49<br />
00/(+372) 56 69 57 71. Probably one of the most beautifully<br />
designed adult entertainment spots in Tallinn, Lady's Shadow<br />
is brilliantly decorated in an 'Arabian Nights' motif and certainly<br />
reminds one of a stylish harem. The rest of the details are<br />
pretty much the same as the majority of these kind of clubs<br />
in the city. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. JX<br />
Lasso B-4, Mere pst. 6a, tel. (+372) 661 61 99. Find<br />
Lasso among the touristy hotels in the port area. A man at the<br />
door may try to hustle you into going to a more, shall we say,<br />
'involved' establishment elsewhere in town, but once you push<br />
past him, you'll find a fairly standard striptease joint, with one<br />
long stage surrounded by sofas and the usual pricey drinks.<br />
If you opt for the private show, bring your nightvision goggles.<br />
They like to keep it dark. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. Admission €10.<br />
X Club D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 75, fax (+372)<br />
631 05 74, info@xclub.ee, www.xclub.ee. One of the more<br />
sophisticated clubs of this type in Tallinn, X Club is favoured<br />
by business types and high-end bachelor parties. <strong>In</strong> addition<br />
to the main show room, an Oriental Room dazzles clients<br />
with belly-dancing and water-pipes. Even the medieval-style<br />
torture booth has nice décor. Friendly staff and a relaxed<br />
atmosphere. A good place for group events like stag nights or<br />
political conventions. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission €15.<br />
Age restriction 18+. JU<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com
64 What to see What to see<br />
Given its age (over 800 years old) and its fascinating history,<br />
Tallinn is chalk-full of sights, museums and countless<br />
stories to help you pass the time rather interestingly. Here<br />
you'll find the must-sees and a whole lot more.<br />
Find Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Points in the Basics section.<br />
The Old Town<br />
Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of<br />
Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay.<br />
The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you<br />
past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old,<br />
merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town<br />
has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which<br />
was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and<br />
Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights<br />
as an autonomous town.<br />
Toompea Hill<br />
Climb Pikk jalg and you’ll find yourself on Castle Square<br />
(Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian<br />
government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol<br />
of the Tsar’s power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.<br />
You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn.<br />
Viewing platforms (C-<br />
1/2) The Kohtuotsa and<br />
Patkuli viewing platforms are<br />
usually the first place that<br />
tourists want to see when<br />
they visit Tallinn. From here,<br />
sweeping views of the town,<br />
its red-tiled roofs, its towers,<br />
its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready.<br />
Toompea Castle D-1, Lossi plats 1, www.riigikogu.<br />
ee. Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians’ wooden<br />
fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn’s<br />
castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for<br />
the nation’s foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu,<br />
Estonia’s parliament. On one corner of the castle you can see<br />
Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour<br />
flag waving above it. It’s commonly recognised that whoever’s<br />
flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The<br />
pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure<br />
added in the 18th Century.<br />
For a more castle-like view of<br />
this building, head behind it,<br />
down the opposite side of the<br />
hill. Q Admission only with<br />
a guided tour, Mon-Fri from<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Call (+372)<br />
631 63 45 for details. J<br />
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral C/D-1, Lossi plats 10,<br />
tel. (+372) 644 34 84, www.orthodox.ee. Toompea’s<br />
dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral<br />
named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia<br />
and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered<br />
the cathedral designed in 1894<br />
by St. Petersburg master Mikhail<br />
Preobrazhensky and it was completed<br />
in 1900. According to legend, the<br />
cathedral was built on the grave of<br />
Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered<br />
structurally as a result. Q Services<br />
in Russian Mon - Fri 08:30 ;17:00, Sat<br />
08:30, Sun 09:30. <strong>In</strong> Estonian Sat<br />
11:00. Admission free. J<br />
The Tallinn Card<br />
If you’re trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn,<br />
consider picking up the city tourist office’s discount card,<br />
the Tallinn Card, good for 6hrs (€12), 24hrs (€24), 48hrs<br />
(€32), or 72hrs (€40). For kids 6 - 14, the price is reduced<br />
by 50%. Cardholders get to choose from one free city tour<br />
and 50% off a number of others. Cardholders will also<br />
gain free admission to all the city’s museums, unlimited<br />
use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and<br />
freebies, like chocolate-covered marzipan and admission<br />
to Club Hollywood. A very well written, fat booklet that<br />
comes with the card lists all the offers. There’s also a<br />
six-hour version of the card (no sightseeing tour included)<br />
designed for cruise ship passengers and anyone else<br />
blowing through town. It costs €12. The card is sold in<br />
major hotels, can be found at the airport, in the harbour<br />
and at the Tallinn Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centres (Kullassepa<br />
4 and Viru väljak 4). For more details, consult the website<br />
at www.tallinncard.ee.<br />
Danish King’s Garden<br />
(Taani Kuninga aed) D-1,<br />
Lühike jalg 9a. One of the<br />
most picturesque and secluded<br />
locations in Old Town, the Danish<br />
King’s Garden is filled with trees,<br />
benches, little nooks and a great<br />
view of the Niguliste Church spire.<br />
The best time to visit the garden is at night with the medieval<br />
walls at your back and the beautifully lit lower town roofs<br />
providing ambience. It also features two of Tallinn’s fortification<br />
towers, Neitsitorn (Virgin’s Tower) and Tallitorn (Stable<br />
Tower). They are currently currently under renovation, but in<br />
the future they’ll house a café and various exhibits. Q J<br />
Dome Church (Cathedral of<br />
Saint Mary the Virgin) (Toomkirik)<br />
C-1, Toomkooli 6, tel. (+372)<br />
644 41 40, tallinna.toom@eelk.ee,<br />
www.eelk.ee/tallinna.toom. What<br />
might be the oldest church in Estonia<br />
was founded in 1219 by the first wave of<br />
Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates<br />
to the 14th century, but the interior was<br />
rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The Baroque<br />
pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780)<br />
are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of<br />
Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this<br />
humbling location. Please be considerate and visit after the<br />
Sunday service. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Services in<br />
Estonian Sun 11:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission free. J<br />
Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2,<br />
Komandandi 2, tel. (+372) 644 66<br />
86, kok@linnamuuseum.ee, www.<br />
linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Built 1475 -<br />
1481, this 45m, six-storey cannon tower<br />
played a key role in the Livonian War and<br />
still has nine of Ivan IV’s cannonballs embedded<br />
in its walls to prove it. Medieval<br />
soldiers joked that from its top, they<br />
could see right into the kitchens of the<br />
houses below - hence the odd name.<br />
The tower now operates as a museum.<br />
QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. <strong>In</strong> November open<br />
Tue - Sun 10:00 - 17:30, closed Mon. Admission €4.50. Joint<br />
ticket with the Bastion tunnels €8.30 (read more on p.7). J<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Lower Town<br />
Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it<br />
was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic<br />
League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around<br />
the world came in through the port and were traded on the<br />
market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously<br />
from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist<br />
Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers<br />
and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with<br />
Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However,<br />
Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped<br />
to the city, where they could eventually be considered free.<br />
Town Hall Square (Raekoja<br />
Plats) C/D-2. As a medieval market<br />
and a modern meeting place, Town<br />
Hall Square has been the heart of<br />
city life for eight centuries. With the<br />
Town Hall at your back, you can survey<br />
some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in<br />
Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked<br />
with a compass rose, you can see all five towers from there.<br />
Town Hall (Raekoda) D-2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. (+372)<br />
645 79 00, raekoda@tallinnlv.ee, veeb.tallinn.ee/<br />
raekoda. The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably<br />
the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages<br />
to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood<br />
here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building<br />
of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who<br />
symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530. This<br />
time of year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse<br />
of the vaulted halls and carved friezes of the historic interior.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission €4. JN<br />
Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek)<br />
C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. (+372) 631 48<br />
60, www.raeapteek.ee. One of the oldest<br />
continuously running pharmacies in Europe is<br />
on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly<br />
when it opened, but records show that the<br />
Raeapteek was already on its third owner in<br />
1422. <strong>In</strong> Medieval times patients could buy<br />
mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment,<br />
and healthy folks could even drop in for a glass of spiced wine.<br />
Keeping up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin<br />
and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying<br />
old medical instruments and other curiosities. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. J<br />
Holy Spirit Church (Püha Vaimu kirik) C-2/3, Pühavaimu<br />
2, tel. (+372) 644 14 87/(+372) 646 44 30,<br />
tallinna.puhavaimu@eelk.ee, www.eelk.ee/tallinna.<br />
puhavaimu. This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent<br />
Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well<br />
as an ornate, outdoor clock that’s said to be one of the most<br />
photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is<br />
the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews<br />
and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the<br />
Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the<br />
people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and<br />
poor, and it was here that the first sermons<br />
were given in Estonian after the Reformation.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Services<br />
in Estonian Sun 11:00, in English 15:00, first<br />
Sunday of the month in Latvian at 13:00 and<br />
in sign language second and fourth Sunday<br />
of the month at 13:00. Classical music hour<br />
Mon 18:00. Entrance fee €1. J<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Dominican Monastery (Dominiiklaste klooster)<br />
C-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 644 46 06/(+372) 515 54 89,<br />
info@kloostri.ee, www.kloostri.ee. One of Tallinn’s oldest<br />
existing buildings is this monastery founded in 1246. The part<br />
of the monastery administered by the museum includes the<br />
courtyard and surrounding passageways, where fascinating<br />
15th- and 16th-century stone carvings are on display. To<br />
see the inner rooms, visit the Claustrum, listed next. Q J<br />
Dominican Monastery Claustrum C-3, Müürivahe 33,<br />
tel. (+372) 511 25 36, info@paideia.ee, www.claustrum.<br />
eu. Here you’ll find the monastery’s inner chambers such as<br />
the monk’s dormitory, priory, library, etc. One of the most<br />
interesting spots may be the downstairs room that houses<br />
the ‘energy pillar’ purportedly the source of a mysterious<br />
power. Open from May 15th through September, other<br />
times only for prearranged group bookings. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 17:00. Admission €8. Various programmes available,<br />
see website for details. J<br />
Niguliste Church - Museum<br />
C-2, Niguliste 3, tel. (+372) 631<br />
43 30/(+372) 644 99 03 tours,<br />
niguliste@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee.<br />
Tallinn’s most famous work of art, a<br />
wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke’s<br />
spooky, 15th-century masterpiece<br />
Dance Macabre, has its home in this<br />
13th-century Gothic church-turned<br />
art museum. Destroyed during World<br />
War II and rebuilt during Soviet times,<br />
the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval<br />
religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries,<br />
a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a<br />
‘silver chamber.’ The church is also known for its acoustics<br />
- organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday<br />
at 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission<br />
€3.50. J<br />
St. Catherine's Passage (Katarina Käik) C-3, . One<br />
of the prettiest little walkways in all of Old Town, the medieval<br />
St. Catherine's passage connects Vene and Müürivahe<br />
streets. On the northern portion of the passage you can find<br />
what's left of St. Catherine's Church (hence the passage<br />
name) and various large, ancient tombstones that used to<br />
line the inside of the sanctuary. On the southern portion of<br />
the passage, you'll find numerous artisan workshops, where<br />
you'll even get see them hard at work creating new items<br />
for you to buy. At any rate, we're sure you'll find Katarina<br />
Käik, a pretty nice hike.<br />
St. Olaf’s Church (Oleviste Kirik) B-3, Lai 50, tel.<br />
(+372) 641 22 41, oleviste@oleviste.ee, www.oleviste.<br />
ee. St. Olaf’s 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was<br />
the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An<br />
old legend claims that the church was built to attract more<br />
merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who<br />
promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered<br />
his name (Olev). <strong>In</strong> reality, the church took its name from<br />
the canonised Norwegian king, Olav<br />
Havaldsson. The first mention of the<br />
church dates to 1267, but the interior<br />
dates to 1840 and reflects that era’s<br />
Historicist bent. Q Services in Estonian<br />
Sun 10:00, 12:00, Thurs 18:30<br />
(prayer). English service first Sunday<br />
of the month at 17:00. Admission free.<br />
The tower’s viewing platform is open to<br />
the public from April through October<br />
daily 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €2. J<br />
April - May 2012<br />
65
66 What to see What to see 67<br />
Sightseeing tours<br />
Audioguide Old Town Tour tel. (+372) 655 66 33,<br />
info@audioguide.ee, www.audioguide.ee. On this selfguided<br />
tour, your own personal mobile device provides<br />
customised narration (and sound effects!) on the history and<br />
architecture of key Old Town sights. Follow the map (provided)<br />
and set your own pace. There are also tours available for the<br />
Estonian Open Air Museum and the Tallinn City Museum. Q<br />
Available for download to your mobile phone, android, iPhone,<br />
laptop, tablet etc. at the Tallinn Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre for<br />
€3.49 and at some large hotels. Free with Tallinn Card at the<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation Centre.<br />
City Bike Tours B-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 511 18 19,<br />
mail@citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee. Now more than just<br />
bikes, Citybike offers tours on wheels and by foot. There<br />
are tours available for pretty much any interesting sight in<br />
and around the city. These include excursions of Old Town,<br />
including a visit to the tunnels and trips to Pirita and Kadriorg.<br />
Customised tours are also available. Excursions leave from<br />
the City Bike office in Old Town, Uus 33. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
19:00. See website for prices and details. J<br />
Estonian Experience tel. (+372) 53 46 40 60, sales@<br />
estonianexperience.com, www.estonianexperience.<br />
com. If you've come to Tallinn just for a weekend and want<br />
to make the most of your limited time, or if you want to enjoy<br />
the a personal private guide tour - why not check out the<br />
'Estonian Experience'? All tours are private and tailored to<br />
your interests. See website for details and prices.<br />
Euroaudioguide info@euroaudioguide.com, www.<br />
tallinnaudioguide.com. This audio guide allows the user<br />
to take themselves on a tour at their leisure, using an iPod,<br />
a map and their own two feet. The narration provides loads<br />
of interesting facts and exciting tales from Tallinn's past and<br />
it's available at many major hotels throughout the city and<br />
the Tourist information centre (see Basics section). See<br />
website for prices.<br />
Cats’ Well<br />
Before you complain about the<br />
chalky taste of Tallinn’s tap water,<br />
you might want to stop to consider<br />
what the town’s Medieval residents<br />
had to put up with. This wheel well<br />
on the corner of Rataskaevu and<br />
Dunkri in the Old Town was once<br />
one of the main sources of water<br />
for the Tallinn. According to legend,<br />
some of the locals got it into their<br />
heads that an evil water spirit lived<br />
in the well and threatened to make all the town’s wells<br />
run dry if it wasn’t given regular animal sacrifices. To keep<br />
the spirit happy, some cattle and sheep carcasses were<br />
thrown down the well, but the main victims were stray cats,<br />
who were rounded up and tossed, sometimes live, down<br />
the shaft. This practice was so common that the locals<br />
started calling this watering hole ‘Cat’s Well.’ <strong>In</strong> a sense,<br />
the sacrifices worked - the town’s wells never ran dry. But<br />
the practice of throwing animals down the well didn’t do<br />
much for the water quality, and the Cat’s Well had fallen<br />
into disuse by the mid 19th century. Rest assured that<br />
nowadays Tallinn’s water is much safer to drink, and the<br />
cats of Old Town no longer live in fear.<br />
Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour C-4, Mere pst. in front of the<br />
souvenir market, tel. (+372) 627 90 80/(+372) 53 055<br />
055, info@citytour.ee, www.citytour.ee. This tour uses<br />
bright red, London-style double-decker buses to take tourists<br />
on several different routes through Tallinn. There's a Red Line<br />
covering the town centre and Kadriorg, a Green Line connecting<br />
to Pirita, the TV Tower and the Botanic gardens, and a<br />
Blue Line that takes you to the Estonian Open Air Museum.<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation for each location is provided in ten languages by<br />
Audioguide (see above), and riders can hop on and off at any<br />
stop. Q One-day ticket €16; two-day ticket €20, three-day<br />
ticket €23. Free with 24hr, 48hr and 72hr Tallinn Card.<br />
Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour D-4, Estonia pst.<br />
3, Reisiekspert, tel. (+372) 610 86 66, incoming@<br />
reisiekspert.ee, www.travel2baltics.com. The classic<br />
general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made<br />
up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown<br />
and some of the more interesting outer areas, and also a<br />
walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours and<br />
tours run two to three times daily. See website for schedule.<br />
Pick-up can be arranged at most major hotels. Q The tour<br />
costs €20. Free with Tallinn Card.<br />
Tallinn Traveller Tours C-2, Vana-Posti 2, tel. (+372)<br />
58 37 48 00/(+372) 55 54 21 11, tallinn@traveller.<br />
ee, www.traveller.ee. Tallinn Traveller organises several<br />
adventures conducted by local youths that are cheaper and<br />
more original than most guided tours out there. There's also<br />
an intimate 'Old Town Walking Tour' that'll give you the chance<br />
to walk around Old Town, chat with the locals and all the while<br />
gaining insight on cultural differences and insider tips on what<br />
Tallinn is really all about. Tours must be booked in advance<br />
and prices vary depending on the tour. See website or visit<br />
them for more info. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
L Marks the Spot<br />
Look for two long cobblestones<br />
that make the letter ‘L’ in the corner<br />
of Town Hall Square nearest the<br />
Raeapteek. This spot marks one of<br />
the more bizarre tales from Tallinn’s<br />
medieval history. <strong>In</strong> the late 1600s,<br />
so the story goes, a priest named<br />
Panicke walked into an inn and ordered<br />
an omelette. What he got was<br />
‘hard as the sole of a shoe,’ so he<br />
sent it back. The next two that the waitress brought were<br />
even worse, and after an argument, the priest decided to<br />
make his point by killing the waitress with an axe. For this<br />
unusually violent crime, the priest was swiftly hauled out<br />
to the square and beheaded, and the spot was marked<br />
for the convenience of future tourguides.<br />
Churches<br />
Tallinn's most famous churches have already been listed<br />
in the Old Town pages, but here are several more churches<br />
for readers with a special interest.<br />
Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord (Issanda<br />
Muutmise Kirik) B-2, Suur-Kloostri 14-1, tel. (+372)<br />
646 40 03. Originally belonging to St. Michael's Convent<br />
of the Cistercian Order (located next door and now housing<br />
the Gustavus Adolphus School), the church was given to an<br />
Orthodox congregation in 1716. The church has retained its<br />
original form, save the addition of a Baroque spire in 1776<br />
and exterior renovations in the early 1800s. The carvedwood<br />
iconostasis is one of the most impressive of its kind.<br />
Q Services in Estonian Sun 10:00. J<br />
St. Charles the XI's Church (Kaarli kirik) E-1,<br />
Toompuiestee 4, tel. (+372) 611 91 00/(+372) 611<br />
91 01, fax (+372) 631 13 63, tallinna.kaarli@eelk.ee,<br />
www.eelk.ee/tallinna.kaarli. Built in pseudo-Romanesque<br />
style on the site of a 17th-century wooden church, Kaarli is<br />
an excellent example of the use of one of Estonia's greatest<br />
resources - limestone. <strong>In</strong> all, construction took 20 years<br />
(1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Köler completed Estonia's<br />
largest mural here, Come to Me, in just ten days. The church<br />
is also home to Estonia's largest church organ. Q Services<br />
in Estonian Sun 10:00 and Mon 13:00. Classical music hour<br />
on Tue 17:00.<br />
St. John's Church (Jaani kirik) D-2, Vabaduse väljak<br />
1, tel. (+372) 644 62 06, tallinna.jaani@eelk.ee, www.<br />
eelk.ee/tallinna.jaani/. This bright yellow landmark is one<br />
of two churches begun in 1862, testifying to Tallinn's population<br />
boom at that time. Built for a local congregation, St. John's<br />
boasts the first bell inscribed in Estonian. Q Services in<br />
Estonian Sun 10:00, service with music each Wed 13:30. J<br />
St. Michael's Swedish Lutheran Church (Rootsi-<br />
Mihkli kirik) D-2, Rüütli 9, tel. (+372) 644 19 38,<br />
rootsi-mihkli@eelk.ee, www.stmikael.ee. Originally built<br />
as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michael's also housed<br />
a spinning factory where 'fallen women' worked. Then it was<br />
transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving<br />
as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was<br />
returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose efforts<br />
to fund-raise for renovation of the church have paid off. Book<br />
in advance for museum tour. Q Services in Swedish every<br />
Sunday 12:00 and in Finnish every Sunday 10:00. <strong>In</strong> German<br />
every 2nd and 4th Sunday 15:00. J<br />
St. Nicholas' Orthodox Church (Püha Nikolai<br />
Imetegija kirik) B-3, Vene 24, tel. (+372) 644 19 45,<br />
www.orthodox.ee. The present Classical building dates<br />
to the 1820s, but a Russian Orthodox church stood here<br />
in the early 1400s. The young church houses many objects<br />
of artistic value predating it, including 16th-century icons.<br />
Q Services in Russian Mon - Fri 08:30, 18:00, Sat 08:30,<br />
Sun 09:30. J<br />
St. Peter and Pau'ls Roman Catholic Church<br />
(Rooma Katoliku Kirik) C-3, Vene 18, tel. (+372)<br />
644 63 67, ppkirik@hot.ee, www.katoliku.ee. A relative<br />
newcomer as far as Tallinn's houses of worship go, this<br />
pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former refectory<br />
of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844. Drop by to<br />
look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to the office and<br />
knock. Q Services in Estonian Mon - Fri 08:00, Mon - Wed &<br />
Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Russian Sun 18:00; in Latin Sat 08:00;<br />
in Polish Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00; in English Sat 18:00. J<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
68 What to see What to see 69<br />
History museums<br />
Estonian History Museum - Great Guild Hall (Eesti<br />
Ajaloomuuseum - Suurgildi hoone) C-2, Pikk 17,<br />
tel. (+372) 641 16 30, fax (+372) 644 34 46, post@<br />
ajaloomuuseum.ee, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. Housed<br />
in the Great Guild Hall, this newly renovated museum's permanent<br />
exhibition, entitled Spirit of Survival, covers 11,000<br />
years of Estonia's history with interactive displays and text<br />
in Estonian, English and Russian. The building itself, built<br />
1407 - 1410, is significant as the home of Tallinn's union of<br />
wealthy merchants and is a sight worth visiting in its own right.<br />
As part of the renovations, several formal rooms and cellars<br />
have now been opened to the public for the first time. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission €5. J<br />
Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe Palace<br />
(Maarjamäe Loss) F-6, Pirita tee 56, tel. (+372) 622<br />
86 10, fax (+372) 644 34 46, post@ajaloomuuseum.<br />
ee, www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. The branch of the Estonian<br />
History Museum that covers the 19th and 20th centuries<br />
makes its home in this landmark house on the road to<br />
Pirita. Originally a summer house, this pseudo-Gothic 'palace'<br />
housed the Dutch consulate, a posh hotel, future pilots and<br />
the Soviet army, before being given to the History Museum<br />
in 1975. Excellent exhibitions on the War for <strong>In</strong>dependence<br />
and the first Estonian Republic. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue. Admission €3.<br />
Estonian War Museum - General Laidoner Museum<br />
(Eesti Sõjamuuseum) Mõisa tee 1, Viimsi, tel. (+372)<br />
621 74 10, info@esm.ee, www.esm.ee. Housed in Viimsi<br />
Manor, the former home of Johan Laidoner who was perhaps<br />
the most influential war hero in Estonian history, the Estonian<br />
War Museum is a great place to start if you'd like to learn<br />
more about this country's history. Estonia has had troops<br />
fighting on its soil from Denmark, Sweden, Germany, Poland,<br />
Russia and has even witnessed some Viking battles. <strong>In</strong>side<br />
you'll find all sorts of displays and info on the various wars<br />
Estonia has been involved in, as well as exhibits on the role<br />
the country's armed forces currently play in the world of<br />
Occupation history<br />
The Museum of Occupation and of Fight for<br />
Freedom (Okupatsioonide Muuseum) D/E-1,<br />
Toompea 8, tel. (+372) 668 02 50, muuseum@<br />
okupatsioon.ee, www.okupatsioon.ee. <strong>In</strong> the period<br />
from 1940 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi<br />
Germany and then for four and a half decades by the<br />
USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in<br />
this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. High-tech<br />
audio-visual displays and art installations add life to the<br />
museum’s artefacts and texts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission €4. J<br />
warfare. Getting there: Take bus nr 1A to Viimsi from the Viru<br />
Centre's underground bus terminal (C-4) and get off at “Viimsi<br />
vallamaja” stop (should be about a 25min ride). Walk back to<br />
the main road and turn right, another 50m and it will be the<br />
large pink building on your left. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission free. An in-depth and guided tour<br />
can be had for groups of up to 10 people for a mere €6.40.<br />
Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2, Komandandi<br />
2, tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum.<br />
ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Now fully renovated, this<br />
tower/museum is an excellent introduction to the history of<br />
Tallinn's defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45m, six-storey<br />
cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still<br />
has nine of Ivan IV's cannonballs embedded in its walls. The<br />
top floor houses a café with some excellent views. And where<br />
did the tower get its name? Check out the voyeur's view<br />
from the windows for yourself as you climb upward. QOpen<br />
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. <strong>In</strong> November open Tue - Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:30, closed Mon. Admission €4.50. Joint ticket with<br />
the Bastion Tunnels €8.30. J<br />
Tallinn City Museum (Linnamuuseum) C-3, Vene 17,<br />
tel. (+372) 615 51 80, info@linnamuuseum.ee, www.<br />
linnamuuseum.ee/linnamuuseum. By far, the most modern<br />
and complete introduction to Tallinn. Appropriately built into<br />
a 14th-century merchant house, the City Museum houses<br />
elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating<br />
various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages. QOpen<br />
10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. <strong>In</strong> November open 10:00 - 17:30,<br />
closed Tue. Admission €3.20. J<br />
Speciality museums<br />
Bank of Estonia Museum (Eesti Panga muuseum)<br />
D-3, Estonia pst. 13, tel. (+372) 668 07 60, muuseum@<br />
eestipank.ee, www.eestipank.info. The 20th century was<br />
a turbulent one for Estonia's currencies. This modern museum<br />
displays every kind of banknote used here from Tsarist roubles<br />
to German occupation tender, and outlines the history of<br />
Estonia's national bank itself, founded in 1919. There's also<br />
an in-depth exhibit that helps the visitor understand the<br />
role of money in society and information all about the Euro<br />
and just how the Eurozone works. For anyone who's already<br />
forgotten what they look like, those now-extinct Euroland currencies<br />
(the Estonian Kroon included) are also showcased.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Admission free. J<br />
Estonian Maritime Museum (Meremuuseum)<br />
A-3, Fat Margaret Tower, Pikk 70, tel. (+372) 641 14<br />
08/(+372) 641 14 10, fax (+372) 641 14 14, info@<br />
meremuuseum.ee, www.meremuuseum.ee. Centuries<br />
of seafaring history, including models, charts and other artifacts,<br />
are displayed in this multi-storied museum housed in<br />
the 16th-century Fat Margaret cannon tower. Don't miss the<br />
antique diving equipment or the view from the roof. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €4. J<br />
Estonian Museum of Natural History (Loodusmuuseum)<br />
B-2, Lai 29a, tel. (+372) 641 17 39, muuseum@loodusmuuseum.ee,<br />
www.loodusmuuseum.ee.<br />
All your favourite taxidermied Estonian, and a few foreign,<br />
animals (not to mention dried plants and mollusks) are on<br />
display in this recently renovated three-storey museum<br />
designed to introduce nature to youngsters. Don't miss<br />
the museum's mascot, the biggest fish ever caught in the<br />
Baltics. The museum is fairly small though and English info<br />
is still a little bit lacking, but it's been fully modernised<br />
and is still worth a look. Check out the facinating, live-<br />
fish exhibits and special exhibitions while you're there.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €3,<br />
family ticket €6. J<br />
Estonian Theatre & Music Museum (Eesti Teatri-<br />
ja Muusikamuuseum) D-2, Müürivahe 12, tel. (+372)<br />
644 64 07/(+372) 644 21 32, info@tmm.ee, www.tmm.<br />
ee. Housed in the medieval Assawe tower, the museum hosts<br />
a weird and wonderful collection of musical devices, from<br />
ancient horns to old clavicords. Splurge another €7 to get<br />
them to crank up a the curious mechanical music machines.<br />
Theatre is covered very minimally and text is mostly in Estonian.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Archives<br />
open Tue-Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sat - Sun. Admission<br />
€3. English language tour available for €15. J<br />
Kalev Marzipan Room C-2, Pikk 16, tel. (+372) 646<br />
41 92, www.kalev.ee. Estonia's famous candy factory<br />
operates a tiny museum in the Old Town building where<br />
the company started back in the 19th century. There isn't<br />
too much text, but visitors can get a look at the intricate,<br />
hand-painted marzipan creations. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.<br />
Admission free. J<br />
Museum of Estonian Photography (Fotomuuseum)<br />
C-2, City Prison, Raekoja 4/6, tel. (+372) 644 87 67,<br />
foto@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum/.<br />
Back in the 14th century this building behind the<br />
Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar<br />
will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian<br />
photography, mainly devoted to the 1840 - 1940 period.<br />
Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and<br />
antique cameras on display. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Wed. <strong>In</strong> November open Thu - Tue 10:00 - 17:30, closed Wed.<br />
Admission €2. J<br />
Tunnels under Tallinn<br />
Tunnels under Tallinn D-1/2, Komandandi 2<br />
(Kiek in de Kök), tel. (+372) 644 66 86, kok@<br />
linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok.<br />
Legends, secrets and underground passages, the<br />
tunnels aren’t just for rats any more, now you can tour<br />
them, too! Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to<br />
help protect the city, these tunnels are a fascinating<br />
relic of times past. Now having completed phase two<br />
of the renovations, visitors can ride the underground<br />
train into Tallinn’s future or take a walk into the depths<br />
of the city’s past. Watch your head though some of the<br />
passage ways can be a little ‘hard’ on you. Tours (by<br />
arrangement) run from 10:30 - 18:00, in November<br />
10:00 - 17:30, every day except Monday. For booking,<br />
contact Kiek in de Kök tel. (+372) 644 66 86. Admission<br />
€5.80, children €3.20. Joint ticket with the Kiek<br />
in de Kök €8.30. J<br />
www.linnamuuseum.eeTallinn<br />
City Museum<br />
CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street<br />
The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval<br />
merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town.<br />
It got the European Museum Forum’s nomination in 2003.<br />
The museum and its café are open:<br />
Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm<br />
Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and<br />
BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road<br />
PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street,<br />
CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street<br />
ST JOHN’S ALMSHOUSE at Väike-Pääsukese Street<br />
(nearby Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn)<br />
HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street<br />
MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street<br />
Colourful theme museum for children<br />
Writers’ museums with authentic interiors:<br />
A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street<br />
E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas<br />
includes the following<br />
branch museums:<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
70 What to see What to see 71<br />
Fun for the whole family<br />
Doll Museum (Lastemuuseum) A-1, Kotzebue<br />
16, tel. (+372) 641 34 91, laste@linnamuuseum.<br />
ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/lastemuuseum. Just<br />
as the name implies, this museum is a treasure trove of<br />
dolls, antique and modern. Small and geared toward kids,<br />
the museum proudly presents its permanent exhibition,<br />
Old Beloved Toys. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue. <strong>In</strong> November open 10:00 - 17:30, closed Mon - Tue.<br />
Admission €2.<br />
Estonian Children’s Literature Centre A-3, Pikk<br />
73, tel. (+372) 617 72 30, eltk@eltk.ee, www.<br />
eltk.ee. This literature centre predominately features<br />
children’s books in the Estonian language, but also has a<br />
good selection of books in other languages as well. The<br />
centre also has a few permanent and special exhibitions,<br />
including the Edgar Valter gallery, which is dedicated to the<br />
loved children’s author and illustrator. Many of the displays<br />
are interesting for young and old alike, no matter what your<br />
Estonian language skills. Groups should book in advance<br />
by calling (+372) 617 72 35. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Estonian Puppet Theatre<br />
(Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater)<br />
C-2, Lai 1, tel. (+372) 667<br />
95 55, info@nuku.ee, www.<br />
nuku.ee. The elaborate Puppet<br />
Theatre has been a staple of<br />
local entertainment since 1952.<br />
It also houses an extensive, hightech<br />
museum that deals with<br />
puppet theatre history and pretty<br />
much anything else related to the<br />
‘puppet-verse’. Performances are<br />
in Estonian, but small children of any language can still be<br />
wowed by the fun characters. They’ve also got something<br />
called ‘steampunk’, which can be viewed from Nunne street<br />
8 (C-2) every half an hour. This bit of animated madness,<br />
created by the brilliant Keith Newstead, is guaranteed to<br />
take the viewer to another world- “Puff, the Magic Dragon”<br />
anybody? QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Museum open 10:00 -<br />
19:00. Admission €5 or €14 for a family ticket. J<br />
Miia-Milla-Manda G-5, Koidula 21A, tel. (+372)<br />
601 70 57, mmmm@linnamuuseum.ee, www.<br />
linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. This hands-on<br />
museum just for kids is located in the beautiful Kadriorg<br />
Park and is especially geared towards children between<br />
the ages of 3 and 11. The playful exhibits are constantly<br />
changing and with active themes the little ones are<br />
sure to be stimulated to the point of exhaustion - or so<br />
we hope. QOpen 12.00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Family<br />
ticket €5.20.<br />
Seaplane Harbour & Museum (Lennusadam) F-2, Küti<br />
17, tel. (+372) 641 14 08/(+372) 57 87 58 15 (groups),<br />
info@lennusadam.eu, www.lennusadam.eu. The freshly<br />
opened and highly interactive Seaplane Harbour and Museum<br />
will certainly fill in a lot of the blanks when it comes to Estonia's<br />
maritime history. This ultra-cool and modern museum is housed in<br />
architecturally unique seaplane hangers, which include structures<br />
that were part of the Peter the Great Naval Fortress between<br />
1916-1917. The Submarine Lembit, the Suur Tõll steam icebreaker<br />
(Toell the Great, in English), the Short Type 184 seaplane,<br />
and many other large exhibits are on display here. You'll get a<br />
chance to take part in maritime history, as well participate in the<br />
many hands-on exhibits that will allow you to learn more about<br />
the sea and the role various seafaring vessels played in Estonian<br />
and world history. A great experience for the whole family, you can<br />
also take an around-the-world journey in the Yellow Submarine. But<br />
don't let us ruin the surprise, check the museum out for yourself.<br />
Certainly worth the entry price and houses a great café as well.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10, only hangars<br />
€8, only museum ship Suur Tõll €4.<br />
The Marzipan Museum C-3, Pikk 40, tel. (+372) 646<br />
06 26. The room of this little shop/museum has a few more<br />
creations than the Kalev Marzipan Room, but is not quite steeped<br />
in as much history. Visitors do however get the chance to build<br />
their own marzipan figurines and even receive a gift-box to house<br />
the sweet creation. The marzipan sculpturing experience will set<br />
you back €3. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Marzipan<br />
history tour for groups from 10-30 people costs €4 per person.<br />
Call for details. J<br />
TV Tower Kloostrimetsa 58a, tel. (+372) 686 30 00, info@<br />
teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee. Officially opened on November<br />
7th (Soviet Revolution Day) in 1980, the 314m tower was, and is,<br />
an imposing example of Soviet engineering. From its observation<br />
deck at the 170m level, you can see Finland on a clear day. The<br />
newly renovated tower features an interactive Estonian Hall-of-<br />
Fame exhibition, a museum and a new restaurant. One of the most<br />
exciting new features include some pretty freaky floor-windows<br />
that you are encouraged to jump on and you can take the full enjoyment<br />
of 'streaking' skyward in their ultra-fast new elevators. Take<br />
bus N°34A or 38 from the Viru Keskus bus terminal to Teletorn<br />
stop. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission €7 per person,<br />
family ticket €15. A joint ticket for the Tallinn Botanical Garden<br />
and TV Tower is €9. After 18:00, restaurant admisssion €3. See<br />
website for further admission info. PHKXW<br />
Vana Toomas<br />
One of Tallinn’s most recognised and<br />
legendary figures, the weathervane<br />
Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), can be<br />
seen guarding over Old Town from the<br />
top of the Town hall tower, rain or shine.<br />
Toomas wasn’t always as old as his<br />
current name suggests - you see, as<br />
a wee peasant lad he won an annual<br />
archery contest that was only reserved<br />
for the nobility. He expected to get into<br />
a fair amount of trouble for winning, as it had never been<br />
done by someone of his lowly stature, but his win would not<br />
be in ‘vain’ as he was invited to become an apprentice guard.<br />
The next few years would see much adventure for our young<br />
hero as he performed numerous heroic deeds during the<br />
Livonian war and went on to serve Tallinn well past the usual<br />
retirement age. At some point later the townsfolk noticed<br />
a similarity between the weathervane and their favorite<br />
soldier and decided to honor him by giving his name to the<br />
vane. He has since become a symbol of the city.<br />
Great outdoors<br />
Estonian Open Air Museum Vabaőhumuuseumi tee<br />
12, tel. (+372) 654 91 00/(+372) 654 91 01, info@<br />
evm.ee, www.evm.ee. Nearly 100 farm buildings nestle on<br />
80ha of forest in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf.<br />
<strong>In</strong>formative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German<br />
guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the<br />
pea soup and other traditional foods at Kolu Tavern (Kolu<br />
Kőrts). Take bus N°21 or 21b from the train station to Rocca<br />
al Mare stop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission €3. A joint<br />
family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is €10.<br />
Tallinn Botanical Garden (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)<br />
Kloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. (+372) 606 26 66, aed@<br />
botaanikaaed.ee, www.botaanikaaed.ee. With the richest<br />
collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept<br />
secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land,<br />
with large modern greenhouses where you can find displays of<br />
tropical, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N°34A or 38<br />
to the Kloostrimetsa stop.October 13 - 21: Cactuses, Our<br />
Prickly Friends. November 10 - 18: Plants in Old Scriptures.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Greenhouses open 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Call 606 26 66 for tours. Admission €3.50. A joint ticket for<br />
the Tallinn Botanical Garden and TV Tower is €9. See website<br />
for further admission info.<br />
Tallinn Zoo (Loomaaed) Paldiski mnt. 145, tel. (+372)<br />
694 33 00, zoo@tallinnzoo.ee, www.tallinnzoo.ee. Although<br />
not an overly large zoo, Tallinn's animal garden boasts<br />
one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in<br />
Northern Europe. Birds of prey are to the left, Siberian tigers,<br />
Amur leopards and polar bears are straight ahead as you<br />
pass the indoor viewing areas. You can check out the newly<br />
reopened Elephant House or duck into the steamy, crocodile<br />
and chimp-filled Tropical House. Of course you should also<br />
take the time to check out the various examples of wildlife native<br />
to Estonia as well. You also won't want to miss the Tallinn<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> sponsored Bennett's Wallabies, located just<br />
next to the elephants. Take bus N°22 or trolleybus N°6 from<br />
the Vabaduse väljak to the Zoo stop.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>door expositions (Tropical house, Elephant house) open<br />
10:00 - 18:00, closed Mon. You are allowed to wander the<br />
zoo 2 hours after the ticket office closes. <strong>In</strong> November zoo<br />
open 09:00 - 15:00, indoor expositions open 10:00 - 16:00,<br />
closed Mon. Admission €3.20. Family and children's prices<br />
available too. A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open<br />
Air Museum is €10.<br />
NB! Efforts are under way to improve the living quarters<br />
of all the larger animals. <strong>Your</strong> paid visit, sponsors and<br />
funding from the local and European governments will<br />
make this dream a reality. We urge everyone who visits<br />
the zoo to also make a donation for this worthwhile<br />
cause.<br />
Tribute to freedom<br />
D-2, Vabaduse Väljak. After many<br />
delays and not without a certain amount<br />
of controversy, the freedom monument<br />
was officially unveiled to much fanfare at<br />
midnight on June 22, 2009. The 26m<br />
structure built from imported Czech glass<br />
was modelled after the 'Cross of Liberty',<br />
an honour bestowed upon individuals who<br />
helped Estonia gain her independence back in 1920. It's<br />
quite a spectacular monument, but to see it in all its glory<br />
you should check it out at night when it's all lit up.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
72 What to see What to see 73<br />
Town Fortifications Soviet Tallinn<br />
Kadriorg<br />
With 46 towers,<br />
medieval Tallinn was<br />
known as ‘one of the<br />
most fortified burgs in<br />
all Northern Europe’.<br />
Today 1.85km of the<br />
original city wall and<br />
20 towers survive.<br />
Epping Tower B-2,<br />
Laboratooriumi 31,<br />
tel. (+372) 601 30<br />
01, nele@kuukala.<br />
com, www.eppingtower.info.<br />
The focus<br />
of the museum inside the Epping tower is an interactive<br />
exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and<br />
development of medieval defence systems. On display are<br />
items pertaining to the towers’ history, including suits of<br />
armour and complete maps of how the town looked during<br />
the 15th-century. Make sure you climb all the way to the<br />
top, the view of Old Town is pretty cool. Q From October<br />
to May open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission €4. J<br />
Fat Margaret’s Tower (Paks Margareeta) A-3,<br />
Pikk 70. Originally constructed in the 14th century and<br />
arguably one of the top sights in the city, Paks Margareta<br />
as she is known to locals, is 82m in diameter and boasts<br />
5m thick walls. At one point, Tallinn’s harbour was just outside<br />
the Great Coastal Gate and she certainly provided a<br />
formidable defence against any hostile forces trying enter<br />
the city here. The tower currently houses the Estonian<br />
Maritime Museum, see museum entry for details. Q J<br />
Hellemann Tower Gallery C-3, Müürivahe 48,<br />
info@hellemann.ee, www.hellemann.ee. This medieval<br />
structure has been converted into an art gallery,<br />
but paying the small entrance fee will let you have a look<br />
at the inside of the tower and give you a chance to walk<br />
along a section of the original town wall where you’ll get<br />
a pigeons-eye view of Old Town. Don’t forget to check out<br />
the various exhibitions being held here as well. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission €3. J<br />
Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala Towers B-2, Gümnaasiumi<br />
3, tel. (+372) 644 98 67, kodu.linn@mail.ee. Three<br />
of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at<br />
this spot. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Tour hours may vary. Call<br />
ahead to make sure they are open. Admission €1.50. J<br />
Viru Gates C-3. The<br />
main entrance into Old<br />
Town is marked by these<br />
beautiful twin gate towers,<br />
which are only a fraction of<br />
a previous gate structure.<br />
The gate entrance was<br />
composed of a large tower,<br />
walls and the existing<br />
two towers. Unfortunately<br />
the larger inner gate towers<br />
were destroyed, but if<br />
you close your eyes we’re<br />
sure that you can picture<br />
what they would have<br />
looked like.<br />
The first thing Tallinners did after regaining independence in<br />
August 1991 was to remove as many symbols of Soviet power<br />
as they could find, but a few humorously grotesque or sad<br />
reminders of that time are still with us.<br />
Architectural Elements With the<br />
exception of the Officer's House (see<br />
below), few visible sickles and hammers<br />
are left on Tallinn's buildings. There are<br />
a couple of places where you can still<br />
see some rather Soviet-looking stars<br />
though. One of them (pictured here) is<br />
on the corner of Suur-Karja and Vana-<br />
Posti, (D-3), in a building which used to<br />
house some offices of the Soviet navy.<br />
On the same square you can see the Sőprus cinema with more<br />
socialist design elements near the roof.<br />
KGB Headquarters B-3, Pagari 1, at the corner of Pikk 59.<br />
Look for the building with the bricked-up cellar windows. It was<br />
here that perceived enemies of the regime were interrogated and<br />
either shot or sent to Siberian work camps. The plaque reads,<br />
‘This building housed the headquarters of the organ of repression<br />
of the Soviet occupational power. Here began the road to suffering<br />
for thousands of Estonians.' <strong>In</strong>terestingly, the KGB used the tall<br />
spire of the nearby St. Olaf's Church to send radio transmissions.<br />
KGB Museum C-4, Viru väljak 4 (Sokos Hotel Viru), tel.<br />
(+372) 680 93 00, viru.reservation@sok.fi, www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/new-museum/.<br />
For years, stories have been circulating about how one side of<br />
the first foreign owned and operated hotel in Tallinn during Soviet<br />
times was completely wired up so that the KGB could listen in on<br />
foreign and local guests' conversations. When the iron curtain<br />
finally fell, those staffing the room destroyed or took with them<br />
what they could and high-tailed it back to 'Mother Russia'. Now the<br />
room is finally open to the public and exists exactly the way they<br />
left it, including an ashtray and Soviet-era cigarette butts. Sokos<br />
also fixed up another adjacent room which serves as a kind of<br />
time-capsule to Soviet hotel history. The museum, albeit small, is<br />
certainly worth a visit for both tourists and locals alike. Q Tours<br />
run every day except Monday and cost €5 for hotel guests and €7<br />
for others. Tours must be booked in advance. J<br />
Linnahall F-3, Mere pst. 20. Built for the Olympics in 1980, this<br />
event centre and port is a perfect example of a much-criticised<br />
Soviet building practice - overuse of concrete. The hall can best<br />
be described as a cross between a parking garage and a somewhat<br />
flattened Mayan pyramid. Linnahall is easy to visit by foot<br />
since it's so close to the centre. We suggest you hurry though,<br />
it's crumbling rather fast.<br />
The Bronze Soldier (Aljosha) I-3/4, Filtri 13, Estonian<br />
Defence Forces Cemetery. Erected in 1947, this world-famous<br />
monument was originally located in front of the National Library<br />
and commemorated Soviet soldiers who died fighting in WWII,<br />
and from the point of view of locals, occupying Estonia. It served<br />
as a kind of ‘tomb of the unknown soldier,' at one point having<br />
an ‘eternal flame' burning in front. After the Soviet Union fell, the<br />
monument was one of the few of its kind to survive, mainly due<br />
to objections by the local Russian-speaking population. The<br />
plaques that now flank the soldier simply read ‘For those fallen<br />
in World War II' with no reference to nationality. Due to huge and<br />
destructive clashes between police and drunken demonstrators<br />
largely from Russia, the statue was relocated to the Defence<br />
Forces cemetery in the spring of 2007. Visitors to Tallinn can even<br />
find Bronze Soldier related t-shirts, DVDs and other memorabilia<br />
dedicated to these events.<br />
Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to<br />
one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg<br />
is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential<br />
Palace and several art museums. Trams N°1 and 3 will also<br />
get you there. Once you’ve arrived, nearly everything you want<br />
to see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same<br />
short stretch of Weizenbergi.<br />
Kadriorg Palace G-5,<br />
Weizenbergi 37, tel.<br />
(+372) 606 64 03, kadriorg@ekm.ee,<br />
www.ekm.<br />
ee. Italian master architect<br />
Niccolo Michetti designed<br />
this magnificent, Northern<br />
Baroque palace in 1718<br />
at the request of Russian<br />
Tsar Peter the Great, who<br />
intended to use it as a summer<br />
residence for the royal<br />
family. The emperor named<br />
the estate for his wife Catherine<br />
I ('Catherine' is 'Kadri' in<br />
Estonian), hence the name of<br />
the area. The palace is now<br />
home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. <strong>In</strong> addition to perusing<br />
the nation's collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the<br />
mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs<br />
that served as president's office in the 1930s. Don't miss<br />
the lavish manicured gardens, out back.<br />
NB! The art museum will be closed from July until the end<br />
of 2012 for extensive renovations. The Mikkel Museum<br />
just next door remains open as do the regal gardens.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Flower Garden is open till end of October 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Admission €4.50.<br />
Kadriorg Park Museum & Library G-5, Weizenbergi<br />
26, tel. (+372) 601 31 83, muuseum@kadriorupark.ee,<br />
www.kadriorupark.ee. This small museum is dedicated<br />
to the park's history, as well as to the architecture of other<br />
parks around Estonia. Changing exhibits and a library. Q<br />
Open Fri - Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun - Thu. Admisson free.<br />
Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. (+372) 602<br />
60 00/(+372) 602 61 23, muuseum@ekm.ee, www.<br />
ekm.ee. Estonia's largest art museum makes its home in<br />
this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff<br />
in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying<br />
treasured works from Estonia's past, and as a contemporary<br />
art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to<br />
explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect<br />
Pekka Vapaavuori. See the Kumu listing in the Culture &<br />
Events section for more info about ongoing exhibits. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission<br />
to permanent exhibition €4.20, contemporary art €2.60,<br />
all exhibitions €5.50.<br />
Park and Swan Pond G-4. The entire leafy park northeast<br />
of Weizenbergi is criss-crossed with paths, perfect for a<br />
wandering visitor. The forest includes several horse chestnuts<br />
planted here in 1722 that were supposed to be replanted later<br />
in St. Petersburg, but never were. The most visited spot here<br />
is the recently renovated Swan Pond, an artificial, rectangular<br />
pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle. It looks like<br />
something out of a Chekhov play, and is a required stop on<br />
any tour of Kadriorg. Bring plenty of film for the camera and<br />
food for the ducks and swans.<br />
Peter The Great House Museum (Peeter I majamuuseum)<br />
G-5, Mäekalda 2, tel. (+372) 601 31 36,<br />
peetri@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/<br />
peetrimaja. This humble little cottage's claim to fame is that<br />
this was where Russian Tsar Peter the Great stayed during<br />
his visits to Tallinn before his Kadriorg Palace was complete.<br />
<strong>In</strong> fact it's still filled with Peter's furniture, portraits and other<br />
artefacts from his interesting life. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission €2.<br />
Presidential Palace G-5, Weizenbergi 39. For a few years<br />
during Estonia's first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the<br />
Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in<br />
1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next<br />
to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace's style echoes the<br />
Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building<br />
once again serves as the President's office and residence,<br />
it's closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking<br />
area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you'll see the<br />
honour guards marching out front.<br />
Russalka monument G-5, Across<br />
Narva mnt., by the shore. This striking<br />
sculpture of an angel facing out into the<br />
sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men<br />
of the Russalka, a Russian military ship<br />
that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki<br />
in 1893. Created by famed Estonian<br />
sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument<br />
has become a Tallinn landmark and a<br />
traditional spot for Russian couples to<br />
lay flowers on their wedding day.<br />
Kalamaja & Kopli areas<br />
Located just on<br />
the other side<br />
of the Baltijaam<br />
train station lies<br />
an eclectic and<br />
historic district<br />
called Kalamaja<br />
(Fish House). A<br />
little beyond that<br />
and you’ll run into<br />
a more industrial<br />
district of Kopli.<br />
Both regions, often lumped together as one, are within<br />
walking distance from Old Town - although it’s certainly a<br />
nicer jaunt during the warmer months. This is where one<br />
of Tallinn’s last remaining ‘wooden house’ districts starts<br />
and as of late it is seen somewhat of a trendy revival of<br />
sorts. First the ‘hippies’ and artists moved in and now it<br />
seems that everyone wants a piece of the action and as<br />
a result, real estate prices have gone through the roof<br />
over the last few years. What was once home to fishermen,<br />
sailors, dockworkers and factory employees, now<br />
houses boutiques, second-hand markets and high-brow<br />
eateries for Tallinn’s hipsters. If hunger strikes, or you<br />
just want to realx after all the sightseeing, you can either<br />
head to the trendy and popular F-Hoone (G-2, Telliskivi<br />
60a, tel. (+372) 680 11 14, fhoone@gmail.com. Open<br />
10:00 - 24:00.), Bistroo Kukeke (G-1, Telliskivi 57, tel.<br />
(+372) 677 87 38, info@kukeke.ee. Open 11:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. );<br />
or the the quaint little Boheem (B-1, Kopli 18, tel. (+372)<br />
631 19 28, info@boheem.ee, www.boheem.ee. Open<br />
09.00 - 23.00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10.00 - 23:00.).<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
74 aCtiVe tallinn<br />
Apart from the usual, boring sightseeing tours there are<br />
loads of other activities available in and around Tallinn.<br />
From hot air ballooning to bowling to biking, we list a<br />
plethora of hands-on activities for the more adventurous<br />
tourists to enjoy. Some activities may even result in the<br />
loss of hands, but most of those types of adventures<br />
require that you sign a waiver and naturally Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> cannot be held liable if you do lose a limb.<br />
Adventure and travel<br />
Airsport (Eesti Lennuklubi), tel. (+372) 505 08 74/<br />
(+372) 512 37 63, info@airsport.ee, www.airsport.ee.<br />
<strong>In</strong> case seeing Estonia from the ground is not enough for you,<br />
you could always try seeing it from the air as you plummet<br />
thousands of feet to the ground with nothing but a flimsy<br />
piece of parachute to keep you from splattering your guts<br />
all over God's green earth. They swear it's safe though, we'll<br />
leave that up to you. Q Simple tandem jump with instructor<br />
and 15 minutes of instruction, €200. Jump with a round<br />
parachute includes a 3hr course and 1 jump, €77. See website<br />
for directions and details.<br />
Megazone I-4, Tartu mnt. 80D, tel. (+372) 621 66 01/<br />
(+372) 53 45 67 00, info@megazone.ee, www.megazone.ee.<br />
Various laser games. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 21:00. €4 - 5/game. N<br />
Skydive Estonia (Eesti Langevarjuklubi), tel.<br />
(+372) 54 54 55 44, jump@skydive.ee, www.skydive.<br />
ee. The only way you would get us to jump out of an air plane<br />
is if it had experienced some sort of mechanical failure and<br />
it had started a collision course with the ground. That being<br />
said, I suppose the fear factor is what makes it so exciting. Q<br />
30 minutes of instruction and tandem jump with an instructor,<br />
€199. 4 hours of instruction and 3 instructor assisted<br />
deployment jumps, €299.<br />
XXXL Tours Rohuneeme tee 61C, tel. (+372) 55 53<br />
18 88, info@xxxltours.com, www.xxxltours.com. Pretty<br />
much the most extreme hen and stag party organiser in<br />
Tallinn, they provide such unique activities as anger packages<br />
with kalashnikov shooting, go-karting, paintball, clay<br />
pigeon shooting, and pub crawling with a female guide...<br />
that's right, female guide. Perhaps they even offer machine<br />
gun shooting while riding on go-karts with a female guide,<br />
you can always ask.<br />
Horseback riding<br />
Tondi Maneez Equestrian Club J-2, Tondi<br />
30, tel. (+372) 655 72 05/(+372) 520 81<br />
59, sirje@capriole.ee, www.tondimaneez.ee.<br />
Located right in Tallinn, Tondi offers horse boarding,<br />
riding lessons and riding times for the budding<br />
equestrian in you. But don’t just show up expecting<br />
to ride a horse, pre-registration is required. Q Hour<br />
of riding costs €25.<br />
Veskimetsa Riding Centre H-1, Paldiski mnt.<br />
135, tel. (+372) 656 39 04, info@veskimetsa.<br />
ee, www.veskimetsa.ee. Located right next to the<br />
Tallinn Zoo and just a short trip from Old Town, Veskimetsa<br />
Riding Centre is a full-service equestrian<br />
centre that offers riding lessons, horse boarding<br />
and facility rentals. Pre-registration required. Q<br />
Hour of riding costs €19.<br />
Bowling & Billiards<br />
Al Mare Bowling Paldiski mnt. 96, tel. (+372) 656 29<br />
64, amb@amb.ee, www.almarebowling.ee. With twelve<br />
lanes this just might be the largest bowling outfit in Estonia.<br />
Perfect for any tourist who just can't keep their hands off of<br />
their balls. QOpen 14.00 - 22.00, Fri 14.00 - 23.00, Sat<br />
10.00 - 23.00, Sun 10.00 - 20.00. €10.80 - 16.80 depending<br />
on the time.<br />
Bamba I-2, Pärnu mnt. 69, tel. (+372) 626 18 50, club@<br />
bamba.ee, www.bamba.ee. This popular pub is a hit with<br />
its 23 tables, highly comfortable atmosphere and decent<br />
menu. Games €2.90 - 4.90/hr. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 05:00. KX<br />
Ku:lsa:l B-4, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 661 66 82, bowling@kuulsaal.ee,<br />
www.kuulsaal.ee. This ultra-modern,<br />
ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old<br />
Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes<br />
€10.90 - 17.90/hr. They also offer seven pool tables, including<br />
snooker and Russian billiards for €1.90 - 3.90 per hour.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. J<br />
Zelluloosi Bowling I-4, Tartu mnt. 80b, tel. (+372)<br />
681 08 81/(+372) 53 07 27 32, info@zbowling.ee,<br />
www.zbowling.ee. Mmmm, the smell of shoe disinfectant,<br />
the sound of pins crashing into each other and the sight of<br />
all those bums wiggling on the lanes. This 'friendly' bowling<br />
club with attached sauna has lanes for €10.80 - 16.80/hr.<br />
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri 16:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. K<br />
Karting<br />
FK Keskus Paldiski mnt. 229a, tel. (+372) 687 01 01,<br />
fkkeskus@fkkeskus.ee, www.fkkeskus.ee. Kids who are<br />
at least 130cm and 10 years old can live out their Formula<br />
1 fantasies on a 730m motorised go-cart track. A smaller<br />
indoor track is also available and a much slower electric car<br />
track for the smaller tykes. They also offer paintball for those<br />
who don’t care about getting their clothing splattered beyond<br />
what a good washing can get out. See website for prices and<br />
details. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Also<br />
at: Rohuneeme tee 1, Viimsi (indoor track), (+372) 601<br />
45 22. Open 14:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.<br />
Triobet kardikeskus Pärnu mnt. 558a, tel. (+372) 679<br />
83 00, hobikart@hobikart.ee, www.hobikart.ee. <strong>In</strong>door<br />
karting track. Adults €8 - 10, kids €6- 8 for 8 min. Outdoor<br />
track is also open from May through October. QOpen 14:00<br />
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Rolling things<br />
16€ Hostel bike rental C-4, Roseni 9, tel. (+372)<br />
501 30 46, info@16eur.ee, www.16eur.ee/eng/bikerental/.<br />
Not only do they offer cheap hostel rooms but now<br />
you can also rent a bike from them for the same price a s a<br />
room night - if you borrow it for the full day. Pretty steep cash<br />
deposit for the bike though, so you might need to sell some<br />
of your stash to ride their wheels. Q J<br />
BC Rent, tel. (+372) 520 62 04, info@bcrent.ee, www.<br />
bcrent.ee. Bicycle rental for kids and adults, BC allows you to<br />
rent by the day or the week. Perfect if you want to check out<br />
the numerous bicycle tracks and parks throughout the city.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 24hrs €11, 1 week €38. Delivery and<br />
pick up of bicycles to and from hotel, minimum order €200.<br />
City Bike Tours B-3, Uus 33, tel. (+372) 683 63 83/<br />
(+372) 511 18 19, mail@citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee.<br />
Bicycle tours of Old Town, Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised<br />
tours are available, in addition to the daily ‘Welcome Tours'<br />
of Tallinn. Tours leave from the City Bike office in Old Town,<br />
Uus 33. Hotel pick-up by arrangement. Tandem bikes also<br />
available for those that just can't bare to be apart from one<br />
another. Reservations for all bikes and tours are a must during<br />
the summer. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. €16 covers rental, tour<br />
and a refreshing drink. Free with Tallinn Card. J<br />
Supersegway C-2, Viru 7, tel. (+372) 641 38 88/<br />
(+372) 512 00 30, rent@supersegway.com, www.bluesupersegway.ee.<br />
These things are kind of silly if you ask us.<br />
The odd factor aside, it could actually be a decent way to get<br />
to see Old Town - if you happen to be afraid of cobblestones<br />
or possess weak ankles and can't outrun the pickpockets.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 1 hr/€32,<br />
they also offer guided tours for groups up to 12 people. Weight<br />
restrictions 40-120kg. J<br />
Culture<br />
Ceramics Studio C-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 56 46<br />
40 75, www.keraamikakoda.ee. For a truly personal<br />
souvenir of Tallinn you might want to check out this ceramics<br />
studio which offers lessons every week to those interested<br />
in such things. Lessons are between 1.5-2hrs in<br />
length and cost a mere €14 per person. It’s also possible<br />
to order private lessons for groups of up to 10 people, see<br />
website for details. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Vanalinna Klaasikoda Suur-Sõjamäe 8A, tel.<br />
(+372) 55 57 36 37, info@vlklaasikoda.ee, www.<br />
vlklaasikoda.ee. Not at all in Old Town as the name<br />
would suggest, this house of glass, located right behind<br />
Ülemiste Shopping Centre, offers up some unique souvenirs<br />
and the opportunity to learn about and indeed create<br />
your own glass-terpieces. See website for details. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
aCtiVe tallinn 75<br />
Squash<br />
Kadrioru Sports Club G-4, Narva mnt. 63, tel. (+372)<br />
601 57 58, info@kadrioru.ee, www.kadrioru.ee. Two<br />
squash fields, €12 - 16.50/hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri<br />
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Metro Squash J-2, Tondi 17, tel. (+372) 655 63 92,<br />
onne@metrosquash.ee, www.metrosquash.ee. €18 - 22/<br />
hr. QOpen , Mon, Wed 10:00 - 22:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 22:00,<br />
Fri, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat.<br />
Reval Sport B-3, Aia 20, tel. (+372) 641 20 68, info@<br />
revalsport.ee, www.revalsport.ee. Single entry €7.<br />
QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. J<br />
Playtime for your little ones<br />
<strong>In</strong>door playrooms<br />
Juku Playland Paldiski mnt. 102, tel. (+372) 665<br />
91 49/(+372) 56 93 31 30, rocca@playland.ee,<br />
www.mangumaa.ee. Playland in Rocca al Mare shopping<br />
centre offering ball pits, jungle gym, trampoline and<br />
inflatable attractions. Tickets start from €2. More suitable<br />
for slightly older children. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Lotte Playroom D-4, Gonsiori 2 (Tallinna Kaubamaja<br />
4th floor), tel. (+372) 667 31 00, www.<br />
kaubamaja.ee. Styled after the most loved Estonian<br />
children’s cartoon character, this newly opened, indoor<br />
playroom inside the Kaubamaja department store, will<br />
give parents the chance to shop until they - or their kids<br />
drop - whichever comes first. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. €3/<br />
hr or free with same-day Kaubamaja shopping purchase.<br />
Must show your receipt. J<br />
Outdoor playgrounds<br />
Falgi Playground D-1, Falgi street. Q TJ<br />
Hirve Park playground D-1, Wismari Street. Q TJ<br />
Kadrioru Park playground G-5, Koidula Street.<br />
The biggest, nicest playparks in town (see also the photo<br />
below). Read more about Kadriorg area on p.73.<br />
Kanuti Garden playground B-4, near Kalev Spa at<br />
Kanuti Street. Q TJ<br />
Lembitu Park playground E-4, A. Lauteri Street. Q T<br />
Police Garden playground (Politseiaed) H-3/4,<br />
Pronksi street. Q T<br />
Tornide Square playground B-2, Near railway<br />
station at Suurtüki street. Q TJ<br />
October - November 2012
76 aCtiVe tallinn<br />
Family fun<br />
Energy Discovery Centre A-3, Pőhja pst. 29, tel.<br />
(+372) 715 26 50, info@energiakeskus.ee, www.<br />
energiakeskus.ee. Science made fun, or at the very least,<br />
a nerd's paradise. Modelled after the famous Exploratorium<br />
in San Francisco, this hands-on museum is designed to<br />
demonstrate things like physics, optics and acoustics to the<br />
younger generation. There are also exhibits related to space<br />
exploration. Don't miss the see-and-do displays downstairs.<br />
The museum building is a former power station, in operation<br />
from 1913 to 1979. Ring the bell to enter. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
17:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission €3, family<br />
ticket €8. J<br />
Kalev Spa Water Park B-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649 33<br />
70, waterpark@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. Located<br />
right downtown, this fully-equipped indoor water park provides<br />
a whole host of wet entertainment. Besides its three water<br />
slides, it has a 50m lap pool, an upstream swimming pool,<br />
kids' pool and play area, saunas, hot tubs and a café. For a<br />
2.5hr visit, the price for children up to 5 years of age is €1,<br />
adults €10.90 and a family ticket (2 adults plus up to 3 children)<br />
is €33. Daily and 1.5hr admission also available. QOpen<br />
06:45 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. TJFLC<br />
Nõmme Adventure Park Külmallika 15a (Nõmme<br />
Sports Centre), tel. (+372) 608 80 29/(+372) 56 15<br />
91 60, info@nommeseikluspark.ee, www.nommeseikluspark.ee.<br />
Adventure park with climbing trails for both<br />
grown-ups and kids also features water-ball rental - you know,<br />
where you climb inside the big, clear plastic ball and pretend<br />
to be Jesus? Good fun for the whole family. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
19:00. Adult single ticket from €14 - 16.5, children depending<br />
from age €4 - 12.50.<br />
Puppet Museum (NUKU Muuseum) C-2, Nunne 8,<br />
tel. (+372) 667 95 55, muuseum@nuku.ee, www.nuku.<br />
ee. Who ever thought puppets could be so interesting. This<br />
museum, which showcases pretty much everything there is to<br />
about puppets and puppetry is an interactive experience the<br />
whole family can enjoy. From touch-screens, to a personalised<br />
experience via your very own code - the old caveat "look but<br />
don't touch" certainly does not apply here. If you're lucky<br />
you'll even get a chance to see puppets being made in the<br />
workshop upstairs and you'll also be able to make your very<br />
own souvenir of the whole experience. This is the museum of<br />
the future. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Puppet-making workshops<br />
open Tue - Sun from 12:00 - 18:00. For group bookings call<br />
(+372) 667 95 09. Admission €5. J<br />
Aah-haa!<br />
AHHAA - Science Centre D-2, Vabaduse väljak<br />
9, tel. (+372) 666 00 66, tallinn@ahhaa.ee, www.<br />
ahhaa.ee. At the bottom of the newly redesigned Freedom<br />
Square, this interactive science experience is truly<br />
amusing for the whole family. The concept started years<br />
ago in the university town of Tartu and now that we have a<br />
branch in Tallinn - we’re richer for it. The hands-on exhibits<br />
will allow the user to become familiar with a fascinating<br />
array of scientific concepts, but perhaps the most exciting<br />
part of the science centre is the 4D cinema. The 9-seat,<br />
multi-sensory set-up allows the viewer to truly experience<br />
the films like never before. Who said science wasn’t fun.<br />
Through October “Ahhaa, the Sound of Physics”. This<br />
interactive exhibit created by the Finnish science centre<br />
Heureka, is designed to open visitors’ ears and minds to<br />
a multidisciplinary take on music. From November “Ahhaa,<br />
Sparkling & Sizzling!” Catch lightning in a jar, solar<br />
cells race to create impossible light figures and admire a<br />
fascinating laser show. <strong>In</strong>cludes more than 20 exhibits.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission<br />
€5, family ticket €12, students and seniors €4.50. Prearranged<br />
group ticket,<br />
€4 per person. Ticket<br />
sales end one hour prior<br />
to closing. 4D cinema<br />
only, Mon-Fri 10:00 -<br />
16:00 €3.20 and all<br />
other times €4.50. For<br />
visitors of the centre,<br />
cinema ticket is half<br />
price. TJUL<br />
Swimming pools<br />
Swimming is considered a great, low-impact exercise.<br />
Here are some indoor places to get wet.<br />
Club 26 H-3, Liivalaia 33, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 55 85, olympia.club26@radissonblu.<br />
com, www.club26.ee. Swimming pool with a spectacular<br />
view, on the 26th floor of the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Single adult ticket €8 - 10.<br />
Kalev Spa Water Park B-3, Aia 18, tel. (+372) 649<br />
33 71, waterpark@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee.<br />
Single adult ticket €6.90 - 8.90. QOpen 06:45 - 21:30,<br />
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. J<br />
Nőmme Ujula Vabaduse pst. 156, tel. (+372) 677<br />
76 00, nommeujula@tsh.ee, www.tsh.ee/est/787/.<br />
Single adult ticket (90 min) €2.80 - 6. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Pirita Top SPA Regati pst. 1, tel. (+372) 639 88 36,<br />
sport@topspa.ee, hotels.tallink.com/en/mainMenu/<br />
piritaTopSpa/sports/. <strong>In</strong> the Pirita Hotel. 25-metre lane<br />
pool with sauna. Single adult ticket €5.99 - 8.70. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Viimsi SPA Randvere tee 11, tel. (+372) 606 11 00/<br />
(+372) 56 95 09 00, viimsispa@viimsispa.ee, www.<br />
viimsispa.ee. Part of a modern health complex in Viimsi,<br />
just north of Tallinn. 25m lane pool, kids' pool, bubble bath<br />
and different saunas. Single adult ticket €9 - 17. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 23:00.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
If you've visited Tallinn before or have more than a couple<br />
for days to spend in this beautiful medieval city - why not<br />
head out into the countryside or visit one of the nearby<br />
islands to experience a little more of what Estonia has to<br />
offer. From manor houses to pristine nature and soviet<br />
relics to some gorgeous coastlines and fantastic beaches<br />
- Estonia might be a small country, but certainly one worth<br />
getting to know.<br />
Please note that many of the tours, activities or<br />
places listed in this section are easy to get to and<br />
quite close to Tallinn - many of the organised outfitters<br />
will even start the excursions from the city. To<br />
reach most destinations on your own, you’ll probably<br />
need to hire a car. See our Getting around section for<br />
details.<br />
Adventure tourism<br />
360 Degrees (adventure company) tel. (+372)<br />
56 22 29 96, info@360.ee, www.360.ee. At 360<br />
degrees if adventure is the name then they've got the<br />
game. All sorts of adventures can be had from canoeing,<br />
sea kayaking, snow shoeing, bog shoeing and skating. The<br />
type of adventure is only limited to the weather conditions.<br />
Also offering a number of scheduled tours. See website<br />
for complete details.<br />
Blue Sky Balloons tel. (+372) 501 12 68, kalev@<br />
airventures.ee, www.airventures.ee. If you've never<br />
flown in a hot air balloon now's your chance. The experience<br />
will stay with you for a lifetime. Operated by the<br />
experienced people at Blue Sky Balloons, flights last 45-<br />
60min depending on the package, of which there are four<br />
available. You'll probably be able to arrange something a<br />
little different though if the price is right. Trips commence<br />
just outside Tallinn in Harjumaa or Raplamaa depending<br />
on prearrangment. The website is quite lacking in any<br />
English info, just call or e-mail them for details. Q €190/<br />
person, up to six people per flight, inlcudes complimentary<br />
Champagne and a certificate that proves you went up in a<br />
balloon. It will probably cost you considerably more to join<br />
the half-mile club though.<br />
Estonian Experience tel. (+372) 53 46 40 60, sales@<br />
estonianexperience.com, www.estonianexperience.<br />
com. This experienced tour-operator makes day-trips to<br />
Lahemaa National Park, Paldiski and loads of other interesting<br />
places. See their main listing under Sightseeing for more info<br />
on the adventures you can experience with them.<br />
Männiku Safari Centre Trapi Road, Saku parish, tel.<br />
(+372) 55 51 11 11 (travel guide)/(+372) 504 67 22,<br />
info@safarikeskus.ee, www.safarikeskus.ee. ATV safari,<br />
shooting sports, archery, hover-crafting and sailing. Q 2 hr<br />
ATV safari €70, 3 hr €90.<br />
Reimann Travels (Reimann Retked) Mikumärdi village,<br />
Saunja (Kuusalu parish), tel. (+372) 511 40 99,<br />
info@retked.ee, www.retked.ee. If it's adventure you're<br />
after, the Reimann brothers will help you find it. Whether it<br />
be sea kayaking, diving, hiking, bog-walking, snow-shoeing,<br />
river rafting or kick-sledding, the experienced guides and<br />
instructors will ensure an interaction with breathtaking nature<br />
sites you have only dreamed about. Tours leave from various<br />
locations throughout Northern Estonia and costs range<br />
depending on type of trip and duration. Thorough guidance<br />
and instruction will be provided for all, so don't worry if you<br />
don't know what a 'bog' is or how to 'walk' one for instance.<br />
See website for full list of activities and prices.<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
arounD tallinn<br />
Hunting & fishing<br />
Hüüru Mill Trout Fishing and Grill Paldiski mnt.<br />
351, Hüüru, tel. (+372) 607 14 30/(+372) 56 91 12<br />
78, info@hyyruveski.ee, www.hyyruveski.ee. Open allyear-round<br />
and located just 7km from Tallinn, the Hüüru mill<br />
offers its guests the chance to catch a trout and have it grilled<br />
right before their very eyes. The authentic atmosphere and<br />
centuries-old watermill is hard to beat in terms of ambience.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. IS<br />
Kopli Madise Farm Maeru village, Keila district, tel.<br />
(+372) 671 33 94/(+372) 56 21 67 92, 56 48 69 94,<br />
taluturism@koplimadise.ee, www.koplimadise.ee.<br />
Trout fishing.<br />
Männiku Shooting Range (Männiku jahilasketiir)<br />
Trapi tee 1, Männiku, Saku parish, tel. (+372) 502 89<br />
51/(+372) 604 21 42, info@sporting.ee, www.jahilasketiir.ee.<br />
Coincidence or not, this clay-shooting outfit<br />
is located not too far from the Männiku Quarry, which just<br />
so happens to be a favourite body dumping site for local<br />
mobsters.... hmmm. Regardless of that potential coincidence,<br />
these folks offer up several shooting courses including one for<br />
beginners. €40/person, includes equipment and instruction.<br />
QOpen 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Oxforell Holiday Centre Toominga 1, Kose-Uuemõisa,<br />
tel. (+372) 675 12 14/(+ 372) 56 48 40 00, info@<br />
oxforell.ee, www.oxforell.ee. Trout fishing. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. IDSW<br />
Archery<br />
Robin Hood Management (Kuldnool) Adra farm,<br />
Kajamaa village, Saku parish, tel. (+372) 508 70<br />
79/(+372) 527 28 22, info@kuldnool.ee, www.<br />
kuldnool.ee. If you are looking for blood this is not the<br />
place to find it - what you can find here though are some<br />
pretty great archery lessons, including basic training,<br />
field practice and shooting on a forest trail. makes for a<br />
pretty interesting time out and 4hrs with an instructor<br />
will only set you back €27.<br />
October - November 2012<br />
77
78 getting arounD getting arounD<br />
Tallinn is basically a large village and getting from one end<br />
of the city to the other is usually fairly quick and easy -<br />
compared to most international standards of course. Here<br />
we have listed all of the different ways you can navigate the<br />
city - and in some cases even beyond.<br />
Public transport<br />
Tallinn's public transportation system is a fairly straightforward<br />
network of buses, trollybuses and trams, all of which use the<br />
same tickets. Trams provide the simplest way to get around<br />
downtown areas, whereas buses are mainly for getting to<br />
outlying neighbourhoods. From the centre, most major bus<br />
routes leave from the new terminal under the Viru Keskus, or<br />
from Vabaduse Väljak. You can easily pick up trams in several<br />
places adjacent Old Town - check our handy transport map in<br />
the back of the guide. Routes and schedules are also listed in<br />
English on the www.tak.ee website, and detailed route maps<br />
are posted at most bus stops.<br />
When climbing on board, in 98% of cases, you can just hop on<br />
any door, i.e. you don't have to show your ticket to the driver.<br />
The rare exception is a few buses that have ‘no-entry' signs<br />
on their rear doors. If you see this sign and the door doesn't<br />
open, head to the front and punch your ticket/show your pass<br />
to the driver. Tickets are otherwise checked by inspectors who<br />
jump on at random stops. <strong>In</strong> our experience, inspectors appear<br />
very rarely, but in theory they could show up any time. <strong>In</strong> other<br />
words, don't blame us if you get nailed. The fine for 'riding like<br />
a rabbit' - as locals call it - is €40.<br />
Tickets: The same tickets are good on all three systems. The<br />
simplest version is the single-ride ticket, or talong. Buy one<br />
from nearly any kiosk for €1 (a book of ten tickets is only €8)<br />
or from the driver for €1.60. Once you're on board, punch your<br />
talong to validate it. Slide it into the green-topped ticket punch<br />
and pull the top towards you. Other types of tickets are good<br />
for specific periods of time and are only sold in kiosks. These<br />
include a 1hr (€1.20; a book of ten tickets €10), 24hr (€4) and<br />
tourist-convenient 72hr (€6) ticket. These need to be validated<br />
the first time they're used - find the modern-looking ticket punch<br />
with digital time clock on board the vehicle (usually by the centre<br />
door). Long-term visitors can also opt for a 30-day (€27) pass.<br />
Taxis<br />
Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next<br />
the Drama theatre just outside Old Town, but grabbing<br />
a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town,<br />
is the best way to get ripped off. Always check the prices<br />
first, which should posted on the taxi’s right rear window.<br />
These consist of a base fare of usually €2.20 - 3.20 plus<br />
two per-kilometre rates (one for daytime, one for night)<br />
which should normally be around €0.35 - 0.96. When in<br />
doubt, you can agree on a price to your destination with<br />
the driver before you get in. Ordering a taxi by phone is<br />
always the best strategy, as you’ll avoid the dishonest<br />
taxis that prey on tourists. Here is a list of taxi companies<br />
along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre<br />
rates. Night time rates can be about 20% more.<br />
Peretakso tel. (+372) 16111/(+372) 646 00 06,<br />
peretakso@peretakso.ee, www.peretakso.ee. €3.20<br />
+ €0.50 - 0.80/km.<br />
Reval Takso tel. (+372) 1207/(+372) 601 46 00,<br />
info@reval-takso.ee, www.reval-takso.ee. €2.50 +<br />
€0.45/km.<br />
Saksa Takso tel. (+372) 1316/(+372) 53 03 50<br />
35, info@saksatakso.ee, www.saksatakso.ee. €2.30<br />
+ €0.49/km. Q N<br />
Parking<br />
Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there's<br />
absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here<br />
with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that finding<br />
parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working<br />
hours, can be a real nightmare. Public parking on streets in<br />
the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs<br />
€1.04 - 4.60/hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted<br />
signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid<br />
parking is in effect. Some city centre areas and all of Old<br />
Town require you to pay even at night. Buy per-hour parking<br />
passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be<br />
sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note)<br />
on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If<br />
all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following<br />
guarded central parking lots/garages:<br />
Kaarli parking D-1, Kaarli pst. 2, tel. (+372) 1669,<br />
parkimine@yhisteenused.ee, www.parkimine.ee. €2.30/<br />
hr. QOpen 24hrs.<br />
Rävala parking house D-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel. (+372)<br />
661 02 23 , europark@europark.ee, www.europark.<br />
ee. €0.90 for first 20min and €0.60/20min after that. Q<br />
Open 24hrs.<br />
Rotermann parking house B-4, Rotermanni 5/<br />
Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 661 02 23 , europark@europark.<br />
ee, www.europark.ee. Entrance from Ahtri street. €2/hr.<br />
QOpen 24hrs.<br />
Solaris parking house D-3, Estonia pst. 9, tel. (+372)<br />
661 02 23, europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee.<br />
Entrance from Sakala street. €2.80/hr. QOpen 24hrs. J<br />
Vabaduse väljak parking house D-2, Vabaduse väljak<br />
9, tel. (+372) 1669, parkimine@yhisteenused.ee, www.<br />
parkimine.ee. €2/hr. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Viru Centre parking house C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 1669, parkimine@yhisteenused.ee, www.parkimine.ee.<br />
€1.80/hr. Q Open 24hrs. J<br />
WTCT parking house H-3, Ahtri 8, tel. (+372) 661<br />
02 23, europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee. €2/<br />
hr. Q 24hrs.<br />
For the motorist<br />
If you’re driving in Estonia for the first time, here’s what<br />
you need to know: traffic signs and laws follow general<br />
European standards. The law requires use of seatbelts<br />
and headlights at all times. Small children must sit in<br />
child seats. You must have a valid license (with photo),<br />
your car’s registration and proof of insurance with you in<br />
the car, as well as a letter of authorisation if you are not<br />
the owner of the vehicle. <strong>In</strong> pretty much all cases, your<br />
driver’s license from back home will work fine.<br />
Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h<br />
and in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Car rental<br />
ABC Autorent Paldiski mnt. 105, tel. (+372) 674 77<br />
80, info@abcrent.eu, www.abcrent.ee. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Advantage Rent A Car J-5, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn<br />
Airport, tel. (+372) 520 30 03 (24h), rentacarestonia@<br />
advantage.ee, www.advantage.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Budget J-5, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372)<br />
605 82 23, rent@budget.ee, www.budget.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Also at: H-3, Pärnu mnt. 141, tel 605 86 00.<br />
Bulvar H-3, Regati pst. 1, tel. (+372) 503 02 22 (24hrs),<br />
info@bulvar.ee, www.bulvar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Hansarent G-3, Ahtri 6, tel. (+372) 655 71 55/(+372)<br />
53 04 40 55 (24hrs), booking@hansarent.ee, www.<br />
hansarent.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Towing service<br />
Falck Autoabi Laki 11, tel. (+372) 1888/(+372)<br />
697 91 88, info@falckautoabi.ee, www.falckautoabi.<br />
ee. For help in any kind of road emergency anywhere in<br />
Estonia. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
R-Rent J-5, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn<br />
Airport, tel. (+372) 50 36 446 (24hrs),<br />
info@rrent.ee, www.rrent.ee. Prices<br />
starting from €25/day. Car delivery free of<br />
charge. Q They offer 15% off for our readers<br />
when you mention the secret word “<strong>Pocket</strong>”.<br />
Sir Autorent H-3, Juhkentali 11,<br />
tel. (+372) 661 43 53/(+372) 56<br />
51 353 (24hrs), sirrent@online.<br />
ee, www.sirrent.ee. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Sixt J-5, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372) 605<br />
81 48, rent@sixt.ee, www.sixt.ee. Whether you need a<br />
car rental for business or pleasure, Sixt offers you great rates<br />
and quality vehicles. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00<br />
- 17:00. Also at: D-4, Rävala pst 5. Open 08:30 - 17:00,<br />
closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Helicopter<br />
By far the fastest way to get to Helsinki.<br />
Copterline F-3, Linnahall Heliport, Mere pst. 20,<br />
tel. (+372) 610 18 18, fax (+372) 610 18 01,<br />
contact.ee@fast-class.com, www.fast-class.com.<br />
Copterline runs a fast passenger link between Tallinn<br />
and Helsinki. The flight takes 18 minutes to cover the<br />
85km between two capitals. Flights run seven times<br />
per day, Mon-Fri and tickets cost between €258 and<br />
€358 return. Tallinn’s helicopter terminal is the flat roof<br />
of the Tallinna Linnahall near the Tallinn passenger port.<br />
The opposite terminal is in Helsinki’s Hernesaari port, a<br />
five-minute taxi ride from town. QOpen 07:15 - 18:30.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. Check website for schedules and<br />
pricing information.<br />
Airport<br />
Lennart Meri - Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) J-5, Tartu<br />
mnt. 101, tel. (+372) 605 88 88 (24hr flight info), fax<br />
(+372) 605 84 33, info@tll.aero, www.tallinn-airport.ee.<br />
Tallinn's airport is a modern affair, but still so small there's never<br />
a worry about getting lost. Once past the luggage receiving area,<br />
you'll find ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall;<br />
toilets and car rental offices are downstairs. Officials still recommend<br />
you arrive 2 hours before your flight though. Estonian Air<br />
check-ins close 35 minutes before take-off. A taxi ride from the<br />
centre roughly costs €10 and takes between 10 and 20 minutes.<br />
You can also take bus N°2 (marked Lennujaam - Mõigu) from the<br />
'A. Laikmaa' stop, just outside to the downtown Viru Centre on<br />
its east side. Alternately you can opt for the 90K (see listing<br />
above) or the airport shuttle that will take you anywhere within<br />
Tallinn's city limits for the low fee of €5 per passenger. Tickets<br />
for the shuttle should be purchased near the flight gates or after<br />
you've picked up your luggage at the desk with the 'shuttle flag'.<br />
Airline offices<br />
Air Baltic D-3, Estonia pst. 1, tel. (+372) 17007/(+371)<br />
67 00 60 06, tallinn@airbaltic.com, www.airbaltic.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Reservations and<br />
information by phone 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. J<br />
Czech Airlines D-4, Liivalaia 33, tel. (+372) 630 93<br />
97, csa.tll@globairgroup.com, www.czechairlines.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Estonian Air I-5, Tartu mnt. 101, at the Airport, tel.<br />
(+372) 16 101/(+372) 640 11 62, ov@estonian-air.<br />
ee, www.estonian-air.ee.<br />
Finnair tel. (+372) 684 05 36, www.finnair.com.<br />
Lufthansa D-4, Tartu mnt. 101, Tallinn Airport, tel. (+372)<br />
605 81 85, tllteammailbox.ga@dlh.de, www.lufthansa.ee.<br />
April - May 2012<br />
79
80 getting arounD getting arounD 81<br />
Ferries to Helsinki<br />
From Tallinn To Tallinn<br />
Days Dep. Arrival Terminal Ship Terminal Dep. Arrival Days<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:30 09:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 07:30 09:30 1 2 3 4 5 – 7<br />
– – – – – – 7 10:30 12:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 08:30 10:30 – – – – – 6 –<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 11:00 13:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 10:30 12:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
– – – – – 6 – 11:30 13:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 13:30 15:30 – – – – – – 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 16:30 D Baltic Princess (Tallink) Länsi 18:30 22:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
– – – – – – 7 13:30 15:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 14:00 16:00 1 2 3 4 5 – –<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 14:00 16:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 14:30 16:30 – – – – – 6 –<br />
– – – – – – 7 16:30 18:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 16:30 18:30 – – – – – – 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 17:30 19:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 17:30 19:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 –<br />
– – – – – – 7 19:30 21:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 19:30 21:30 – – – – – – 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 21:00 23:00 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 21:30 23:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 –<br />
– – – – – – 7 22:30 00:30 D Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi 22:30 00:30 – – – – – – 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 10:40 A M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka 11:30 14:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 18:00 20:30 A M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka 21:30 00:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 –<br />
– – – – – – 7 16:30 19:00 A M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka 20:00 22:30 – – – – – – 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 16:30 20:00 A M/S Nordlandia<br />
(Eckerö)<br />
Länsi 08:00 11:00 1 2 3 4 5 – –<br />
– – – – – 6 – 17:30 20:45 A M/S Nordlandia<br />
(Eckerö)<br />
Länsi 09:00 12:00 – – – – – 6 –<br />
– – – – – – 7 16:00 19:15 A M/S Nordlandia<br />
(Eckerö)<br />
Länsi 10:30 13:30 – – – – – – 7<br />
– 2 3 4 5 6 – 01:00 06:40 A M/S Nordlandia<br />
(Eckerö)<br />
Länsi 20:15 23:30 – – – – – – 7<br />
1 – – – – – – 00:30 06:40 A M/S Nordlandia Länsi 21:00 00:15 1 2 3 4 5 – –<br />
Ferry to Stockholm<br />
(Eckerö)<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 08:00 09:30 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 08:00 09:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 –<br />
1 – – – 5 6 – 08:00 09:30 Linnahall Lindaline* Makasiini 08:00 09:30 1 2 3 4 – 6 –<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 11:30 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 10:00 11:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 11:30 Linnahall Lindaline* Makasiini 10:00 11:30 1 – – – 5 6 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:00 13:30 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 12:00 13:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
– – – – 5 – 7 12:00 13:30 Linnahall Lindaline* Makasiini 12:00 13:30 1 2 – – 5 6 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 16:30 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 14:00 15:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
1 2 3 – 5 6 7 15:00 16:30 Linnahall Lindaline* Makasiini 14:00 15:30 – – 3 4 5 – 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 18:30 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 17:00 18:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
– – – 4 5 6 7 17:00 18:30 Linnahall Lindaline* Makasiini 17:00 18:30 1 2 – – 5 6 7<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:00 20:30 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 19:00 20:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
1 2 3 – 5 6 7 19:00 20:30 Linnahall Lindaline* Makasiini 19:00 20:30 – – 3 4 5 6 7<br />
– – – – 5 6 7 21:00 22:30 Linnahall Lindaline Makasiini 21:00 22:30 – – – – 5 6 7<br />
*Schedule from October 29, 2012.<br />
Ferry schedule valid as of August 22, 2012. Please note that “Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>” does not take responsibility for changes in the<br />
schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.<br />
Days Departure Arrival Terminal Ship Terminal<br />
To Tallinn<br />
Departure Arrival Days<br />
To Stockholm From Stockholm<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 10:00* D Baltic Queen/ Värtahamnen 17:45 10:00* 1 2 3 4 5 6 7<br />
Victoria I (Tallink)<br />
Ferries<br />
The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn<br />
go by ship, and it's no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable<br />
ferry connections to Helsinki, Stockholm and Saint<br />
Petersburg. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the choice<br />
between large car ferries, which make the crossing in about<br />
two hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and catamarans), which<br />
usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal and don't run in<br />
all weather conditions. Ferries leave from various terminals<br />
of the city's two passenger harbours, clustered just outside<br />
Old Town (see our map).<br />
* Arrival on next day.<br />
Ferry schedule valid as of August 22, 2012. Please note that “Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>” does not take responsibility for changes in the<br />
schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.<br />
Linnahall (Linnahalli kiirlaevade sadam) F-3, Mere<br />
pst. 20, tel. (+372) 699 93 33, info@lindaliini.ee, www.<br />
lindaliini.ee. Only Lindaline hydrofoils, which operate exclusively<br />
in warmer months and in good weather conditions,<br />
leave from this Soviet-era concrete wonder. Q Ticket office<br />
open 1 hr before first departure until the last departure.<br />
Passenger Port, Terminal A - D (Reisisadam) F-3,<br />
Sadama 25, tel. (+372) 631 85 50, ts@ts.ee, www.<br />
portoftallinn.com. Nearly all ferry companies use the Passenger<br />
Port, which is divided into terminals A through D. All<br />
Tallink ships use D-Terminal. Q <strong>In</strong>formation open in A-Terminal<br />
06:00 - 18:30, in D-Terminal 06:00 - 22:30.<br />
Ferry companies<br />
Eckerö Line F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. (+372)<br />
664 60 00, info.ee@eckeroline.ee, www.eckeroline.ee.<br />
Large car ferry Nordlandia. Adult single tickets starting at €21.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:30. Reservations and<br />
information by phone 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 18:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 16:30.<br />
Lindaline H-3, Gonsiori 2 at Tallinn Kaubamaja service<br />
street, tel. (+372) 699 93 33, fax (+372) 699 93 30,<br />
info@lindaliini.ee, www.lindaliini.ee. Hydrofoils. Adult<br />
single tickets starting from €26 up to €46, depending on class,<br />
hour and day of departure. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at:<br />
F-3, Mere pst. 20e, Linnahall terminal. Open 07:00 - 19:00;<br />
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
St. Peter Line F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel.<br />
(+372) 666 08 00, terminal.tallinn@stpeterline.com,<br />
www.stpeterline.com. Although it only leaves Tallinn once<br />
a week, now you can head to St Petersburg via ship without<br />
having to stop first in Stockholm. The round trip which includes<br />
two nights on board and a day in St Petersburg can<br />
even be completed visa-free where applicable. See website<br />
or contact agent for full details. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak 2, tel: 666 08<br />
09, sergei.shkurd@stpeterline.com. Adult single tickets<br />
starting from €25.<br />
Tallink G-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. (+372) 640 98 08, fax<br />
(+372) 611 88 95, booking@tallink.ee, www.tallink.<br />
ee. Large and fast car ferries. Adult single tickets start<br />
from €19. To Stockholm from €38. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: H-3, Tallinn Kaubamaja<br />
service street at Gonsiori 2. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Viking Line F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel.<br />
(+372) 666 39 45/(+372) 666 39 66, fax (+372)<br />
666 39 39, booking@vikingline.ee, www.vikingline.<br />
ee. Large car ferries Viking XPRS. Adult single tickets from<br />
€22. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sun 06:30 - 16:30. Also at:<br />
G-3, Hobujaama 4. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Reservations and information by phone 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat - Sun 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational train schedule<br />
Trains<br />
Train travel in Estonia hasn't gained the popularity it has<br />
elsewhere in Europe. The only real international connections<br />
are to points east ( Moscow and beyond), and although plans<br />
are under way, forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius.<br />
It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian<br />
cities by rail. Three separate companies cover Estonia's<br />
train system: GoRail handles international, Edelaraudtee's<br />
trains are inter-city, and Elektriraudtee operates the local<br />
electric trains.<br />
Edelaraudtee tel. (+372) 1447 (24hrs), info@edel.ee,<br />
www.edel.ee. They operate trains to Tartu, Valga, Pärnu,<br />
Viljandi, Rakvere and Narva. Tickets can be purchased online<br />
or on the train. Cash or credit cards accepted. Q Edelaraudtee<br />
info open at Balti Jaam train station 08:00 - 13:30;<br />
14:30 - 19:00.<br />
Elektriraudtee tel. (+372) 1447 (24hrs), info@elektriraudtee.ee,<br />
www.elektriraudtee.ee. They operate the<br />
commuter, electric train routes to such places as, Paldiski,<br />
Aegviidu and Riisipere. Prices vary from €1 - 2.30, daily tickets<br />
also available from €3 - 6. Tickets can be purchased online<br />
or on the train. Payment must be made in cash on the train<br />
itself. Q N<br />
GoRail B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372) 631 00 44,<br />
reisid@gorail.ee, www.gorail.ee. Gorail operates the<br />
trains to Moscow and St Petersburg. See website for full price<br />
list, schedules and visa requirements if applicable. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 18:00. Gorail info open at Balti Jaam train station<br />
08:00 - 13:30; 14:30 - 19:00.<br />
Train Station (Balti Jaam) B-1, Toompuiestee 37,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 00 23/(+372) 1447 (24hrs), www.<br />
baltijaam.ee. Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn's newlyrevamped<br />
train station boasts a trendy café, fountain and a<br />
day spa, but still has almost no information posted in English.<br />
Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there are information<br />
booths (open 07:10 - 18:15, Sat - Sun 08:00 - 18:15),<br />
usually staffed by someone multi-lingual. Tickets for all trains,<br />
including the Russia trains, are sold from windows in the<br />
main hall (take a number and wait). For domestic routes, you<br />
don't even have to bother with this process since the same<br />
tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains. A<br />
touch-screen vending machine in the centre of the hall also<br />
sells tickets for domestic routes (excluding the electric lines).<br />
From Tallinn To Tallinn<br />
Days Deparure Arrival Destination Dep. Arr. Days Price<br />
Daily 17:40 09:20* MOSCOW 18:05* 08:25 Daily €64 – 253<br />
Daily 07:03 15:18* ST.PETERSBURG 17:33* 23:28 Daily €26 – 31<br />
*Moscow time.<br />
Schedule valid as of July 05, 2012. Please note that “Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule.<br />
Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
82 getting arounD<br />
Buses<br />
If you’re travelling city-to-city in the Baltics and you don’t have<br />
your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. It’s also a<br />
good way to meet local students. Connections are frequent<br />
and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same<br />
money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn.<br />
Bus Station (Tallinna Bussijaam) H-4, Lastekodu<br />
46, tel. (+372) 12 550, info@bussijaam.ee, www.<br />
bussijaam.ee. Tallinn's small bus station is a small,<br />
Soviet-era relic, but services are fairly efficient and it's<br />
not as depressing as it used to be. Tickets are available<br />
inside the station or from the driver. (Let ticket-holders<br />
get on the bus first.) Ticket prices depend on the bus<br />
company and route. On international routes it is advisable<br />
to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes<br />
this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions:<br />
On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend<br />
destinations like Pärnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so<br />
buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot.<br />
Get to the station by taking city trams N°2 or 4 from the<br />
centre, or bus N°17 next to the Solaris Centre, to the Bussijaam<br />
stop. NB! Currently under renovations, tickets<br />
may be purchased from temporary, outdoor kiosk.<br />
QOpen 06:30 - 21:00.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational bus schedule<br />
Ecolines I-4, Tartu mnt. 68, tel. (+372) 606 22 17/<br />
(+372) 56 37 79 97, ecolines@ecolines.ee, www.ecolines.ee.<br />
A large bus company with routes throughout the<br />
Baltics and Europe. Ecolines is generally cheaper (in many<br />
senses of the term) than Eurolines. Conveniently you can book<br />
and pay for tickets via the internet then print out the ticket yourself,<br />
saving a trip to the ticket office. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. For<br />
the early birds, tickets can also be purchased here: Ecolines<br />
Ticket Office H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. 56 37 79 97, ecolines.<br />
kassa@ecolines.ee. Open 06:30 - 21:00.<br />
Hansabuss Business Line Kadaka tee 62a, tel. (+372)<br />
627 90 80, booking@hansabuss.ee, www.businessline.<br />
ee. By far the best way to get to Pärnu or Riga, other than flying,<br />
the Hansabuss business line really takes good care of its<br />
guests. They offer complimentary WIFI, comfortable seating<br />
and also have a bus attendant who will cater to your needs.<br />
For an additional fee you can purchase food and beverages<br />
on board. Tickets must be purchased through their website.<br />
Lux Express H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. (+372) 680 09 09,<br />
fax (+372) 680 09 01, info.ee@luxexpress.eu, www.luxexpress.eu.<br />
Formerly known as Eurolines, Lux Express runs most<br />
international bus routes from Estonia. Seats on all routes can be<br />
reserved up to 24 hours in advance by calling ahead, though getting<br />
through to the office requires persistence. As with Ecolines, you<br />
can also buy tickets from the website and print them out. Find the<br />
office on the bus station's second floor. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00.<br />
From Tallinn To Tallinn<br />
Days Departure Arrival Destination Departure Arrival Days Price<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 10:30 RIGA* 08:00 12:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13.30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 13:55 RIGA* 09:15 13:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13.30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:15 17:55 RIGA* 12:00 16:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13.30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 20:55 RIGA* 17:00 21:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13.30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:00 23:15 RIGA* 19:00 23:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13.30<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 06:20 10:45 RIGA** 06:20 10:45 1 2 3 4 5 – – € 23<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 11:45 16:10 RIGA** 11:45 16:10 1 2 3 4 5 – – € 23<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – – 17:30 21:55 RIGA** 17:30 21:55 1 2 3 4 5 – – € 23<br />
– – – – – 6 7 11:35 16:00 RIGA** 11:35 16:00 – – – – – 6 7 € 23<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 10:25 RIGA 20:35 00:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 18<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 11:25 RIGA 18:30 22:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 27<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:30 12:55 RIGA 08:30 12:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 21<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 14:30 RIGA 10:00 14:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 17:10 RIGA 12:30 16:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 €22 - 27<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 20:25 RIGA 16:00 20:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 21<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 21:25 RIGA 14:45 19:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:30 22:55 RIGA 07:00 11:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 €22 - 27<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:30 02:50 RIGA 02:35 06:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 13<br />
1 2 3 4 5 – 7 06:00 13:00 ST. PETERSBURG 18:00 23:20 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 € 48<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 15:30 ST. PETERSBURG 16:45 23:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 15<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 15:10 ST. PETERSBURG 19:00 00:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 25<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:15 18:45 ST. PETERSBURG 23:00 06:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 23 - 25<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:35 18:55 ST. PETERSBURG 14:00 20:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 20<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:15 21:55 ST. PETERSBURG 09:00 14:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 29<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 22:30 ST. PETERSBURG 07:15 13:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 22<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:45 22:40 ST. PETERSBURG 23:50 05:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 29<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:00 06:30 ST. PETERSBURG 22:30 05:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 15 - 22<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:40 07:25 ST. PETERSBURG 10:20 16:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 29<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 23:59 08:30 ST. PETERSBURG 11:15 18:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 21 - 28<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 14:40 VILNIUS* 07:30 16:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 25.70<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:15 22:05 VILNIUS* 12:00 21:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 25.70<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 15:00 VILNIUS 16:10 00:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 34<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 19:05 VILNIUS 10:00 19:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 22<br />
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:30 06:55 VILNIUS 22:30 06:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 € 22<br />
* Lines operated by Ecolines, others by Lux Express. ** Lines operated by Hansabuss Business Line.<br />
Prices for Ecolines are valid for tickets bought from the internet (5% discount compared to rack price).<br />
Schedule valid as of August 22, 2012. Please note that “Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule.<br />
Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider.<br />
There are plenty of opportunities to spend money<br />
shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens<br />
of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town<br />
the main shopping streets are Viru, Müürivahe, Suur-Karja,<br />
Väike-Karja and Kullassepa. The most central shopping<br />
centre is Viru Centre home also to the Kaubamaja<br />
department store. Kaubamaja and Stockmann offer<br />
everything from electronics to cosmetics as well as large<br />
clothing sections. See listings on page 86.<br />
Art shops<br />
Allagallery C-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 641 55 01, allagallery@hotmail.com,<br />
www.allagallery.com. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.<br />
bogapott.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Domini Canes C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. (+372)<br />
644 52 86, info@dominicanes.eu, www.glassart.ee.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. N<br />
Galerii 2 C-1/2, Lühike jalg 1, tel. (+372) 641 83<br />
08, galerii.kaks@mail.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Galerii 36 C-1/2, Lühike jalg 8, tel. (+372) 644 16<br />
58, galerii36@hot.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Galerii-G D-2, Vabaduse väljak 6, tel. (+372) 644 89<br />
71, info@galeriig.ee, www.galeriig.ee. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Hindricus anno 1393 C-2, Lühike jalg 2, tel. (+372)<br />
660 52 03, merike.oosalu@mail.ee. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Hobusepea Galerii B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372)<br />
528 53 24/(+372) 627 67 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.<br />
eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Tue.<br />
Kunstiaken C-3, Vene 20, tel. (+372) 646 42 09, penelope.pood@gmail.com.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Lühikese Jala Galerii C-1/2, Lühike jalg 6, tel. (+372)<br />
631 47 20, lpgalerii@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/lgalerii.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Navitrolla Galerii B-3, Sulevimägi 1, tel. (+372) 631<br />
37 16, navi@navitrolla.ee, www.navitrolla.ee. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
US Art Gallery B-4, Roseni 8 (Rotermann Quarter),<br />
tel. (+372) 664 50 26, usart@usart.ee, www.usart.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Antiques<br />
shoPPing<br />
Bookshops<br />
You won't find a great selection of books in English or<br />
other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you won't be left<br />
without any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the<br />
widest selection of English language novels. Allecto has a<br />
good variety of speciality books and textbooks.<br />
Allecto H-3, Juhkentali 8, tel. (+372) 627 72 30, allecto@allecto.ee.<br />
This specialist in foreign language books<br />
is a good bet for all sorts of titles. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Apollo Raamatupood D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris<br />
Centre), tel. (+372) 633 60 00, info@apollo.ee, www.<br />
apollo.ee. The most central source for English-language<br />
novels and travel guides. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
Raamatukoi C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 683 77 10,<br />
raamatukoi@raamatukoi.ee, www.raamatukoi.ee.<br />
Specialising in antique books. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Rahva Raamat C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel.<br />
(+372) 644 66 55, www.rahvaraamat.ee. Probably the<br />
best stocked in Estonia for English books, with titles throughout<br />
the store. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: D-3, Pärnu<br />
mnt. 10, tel. 644 36 82. Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Slothrop's C-3, Müürivahe 19, info@slothrops.ee,<br />
www.slothrops.ee. The only bookshop in Tallinn that<br />
specialises in English and other foreign-language literature.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Aarded D-2, Rüütli 13, tel. (+372) 56 66 66 11/<br />
(+372) 56 50 07 38, aarded@aarded.ee, www.<br />
aarded.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Aigrette Antique C-3, Väike-Karja 4, tel. (+372)<br />
641 15 67, info@aigrette.ee, www.aigrette.ee.<br />
Q J<br />
Andry’s Antiques & Collectibles C-3, Viru 9, tel.<br />
(+372) 631 42 63, noeps@online.ee. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Antiik & Kunst C-2, Dunkri 9, tel. (+372) 644 09<br />
23. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.<br />
Antikvaar C-2, Rataskaevu 20, tel. (+372) 641 82<br />
69. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Idla Antiik B-3, Pikk 30, tel. (+372) 646 40 60,<br />
jaanus@idla.ee, www.idla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. .<br />
Old Times Antique C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel.<br />
(+372) 529 35 41/(+372) 631 47 25, info@oldtimes.<br />
ee, www.oldtimes.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. J<br />
Reval Antiik D-2, Harju 13 (entrance at Müürivahe<br />
2), tel. (+372) 644 07 47, info@reval-antique.ee,<br />
www.reval-antique.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Sat<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Shifara Gallery Antiques D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel.<br />
(+372) 644 35 36, shifara@online.ee, www.shifaraantique.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
83
84 shoPPing shoPPing 85<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
The difficult challenge of selecting souvenirs that actually<br />
possess some practical use is actually possible to achieve<br />
in Tallinn. However, just as in any town heavily reliant on<br />
tourism, you could also go poor buying useless crap or<br />
items that really have nothing to do with Estonia, such as<br />
the ever prevalent Russian nesting doll. Just like the nesting<br />
doll, Old Town is filled with souvenir shops, some even<br />
inside other souvenir shops. Here we have listed some of<br />
the more reputable ones.<br />
Angel & Button Shop (<strong>In</strong>gli ja Nööbi Pood) C-2,<br />
Pühavaimu 2, info@puupank.ee, www.puupank.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Baltic Amber (M. Villadisain) C-2, Vanaturu kael<br />
10, tel. (+372) 641 89 03, villadisain@hot.ee. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 20:00. Also at: C-2/3, Viru 9, tel. 642 70 19. Open<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 21, tel. 600 41 53. Open<br />
10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Dunkri 3, tel. 641 87 35. Open<br />
10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 2, tel. 646 45 58. Open<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel 642 05 14.<br />
Open 10:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Baraka D-3, Pärnu mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 56 83 47 66,<br />
barakapood@gmail.com, www.baraka.ee. Funky gifts for<br />
the 'cool' crowd. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Estonian Handicraft House C-2, Pikk<br />
22, tel. (+372) 631 40 76, info@crafts.<br />
ee, www.crafts.ee. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 15,<br />
tel. 631 33 93. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Also at: C-1, Lühike jalg 6, tel. 641 17 08.<br />
Open 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak<br />
4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 610 13 32. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Estonian Goods C-3, Viru 23. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. J<br />
Estonian Handicraft Embassy C-3, Viru 3. This souvenir<br />
shop features different sections devoted to various handicrafts<br />
such as leather goods, local delicacies, wood items<br />
etc. The craftsmen sell their own wares and you won't find<br />
any 'Russian nesting dolls' or other non-Estonian souvenirs<br />
for sale here - a plus in our books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. J<br />
Etno.ee H-3, Tartu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 682 51 24, info@<br />
etno.ee, www.etno.ee. Estonian ethnic design. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Fankadelik C-3, Vana-Viru 6, info@fankadelik.com,<br />
www.fankadelik.com. Fresh designs by young and hip Estonian<br />
designers. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Helina Tilk C-2, Rataskaevu 6, tel. (+372) 646 42 80,<br />
info@helinatilk.com, www.helinatilk.com. Porcelain. Shop<br />
& Workshop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 15:00. Also at: D-2, Lühike jalg 5, tel 631 33 28.<br />
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Also at: B-3, Pikk 41, tel 641 45 15. Open 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J<br />
Crystal & Glass<br />
Claire Boutique C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru centre),<br />
tel. (+372) 631 35 88, www.kristall.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Kristall C-3, Viru 16, tel. (+372) 644 91 85, elmalin@hot.ee,<br />
www.elmalin.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J<br />
Kristalling C-3, Müürivahe 31, tel. (+372) 646 44<br />
72, info@kristalling.ee, www.kristalling.ee. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Kalev Chocolate Shop B-4, Roseni 7 (in the inner yard of<br />
Rotermanni quarter), tel. (+372) 54 52 58 29, rotermann@<br />
kalev.eu, www.kalev.eu. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 -<br />
18:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 16 (in Kalev Marzipan Museum),<br />
tel. 646 41 92. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Katariina Gild C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, info@<br />
katariinagild.eu, katariinagild.eu. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun. N<br />
Krambude C-2, Vana turg 1, tel. (+372) 627 90 20, reserve@oldehansa.ee,<br />
www.oldehansa.net. Medieval wares.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Loomelood C-3, Väike-Karja 4, www.minudisain.ee. Glass<br />
art and ceramics by Estonian designers. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Nukupood C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644 30 58,<br />
www.nukupood.ee. Handicraft dolls & toys. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J<br />
Oma Asi C-2, Saiakang 1, tel. (+372) 633 50 25, sales@<br />
omaasi.com, www.omaasi.com. This quaint little shop<br />
houses unique Estonian creations. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Raevangla Käsitöökelder C-2, Raekoja 4/6, behind<br />
Town Hall, tel. (+372) 644 64 88, meie@raepoeke.ee,<br />
www.raepoeke.ee. QOpen 10:30 - 16:30, Sun 10:30 - 16.00.<br />
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. J<br />
Saaremaa sepad C-2, Nunne 7, tel. (+372) 646 43 15,<br />
sepad@sepad.ee, www.sepad.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Sepa Äri B-3, Olevimägi 11, tel. (+372) 680 09 71, info@<br />
ross.ee, www.ross.ee. Wide range of products from Estonian<br />
blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 15:00. J<br />
What to Give? - Gift Shop D-3, Müürivahe 28, tel. (+372)<br />
552 26 25, www.midakinkida.ee/en/. Hand-made souvenirs.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Wood & Bug Shop (Puu ja Putuka Pood) C-3, Vene<br />
6, info@puupank.ee, www.puupank.ee. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00. J<br />
Knits & Linen<br />
Hansa Lina C-2, Dunkri 1, tel. (+372) 644 03 94, info@<br />
hansalina.com, www.hansalina.com. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
19:00. Also at: C-3, Vana-Viru 3. Open 09:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Jolleri Handicraft Chamber (Käsitöökamber) D-3,<br />
Müürivahe 11, tel. (+372) 648 45 88, info@jollery-bunny.ee,<br />
www.jollery-bunny.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Kalliver C-3, Müürivahe 31, tel. (+372) 646 44 71.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. J<br />
Rewill C-3, Vene 7, tel. (+372) 631 33 62, rewill@<br />
rewill.ee, www.rewill.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Veta C-2, Pikk 6, tel. (+372) 664 44 56, www.veta.<br />
ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-2, Kullassepa 4,<br />
tel. 664 44 64. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-3, Viru<br />
4, tel. 664 44 66. Open 10:00 - 19:00. J<br />
Villa-Nella C-2, Kinga 6. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. J<br />
Estonian fashion designers<br />
A.G.A.N. - As Good As New Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10,<br />
tel. (+372) 56 49 56 57, dairefr@hotmail.com. Both a<br />
second-hand boutique and a showcase for young Estonian<br />
designers specialising in creations made from reclaimed<br />
materials. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Baltman C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372)<br />
660 14 69, www.baltman.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Bastion C-3, Viru 12, tel. (+372) 644 15 55, www.<br />
bastion.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 16:00. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak 5/6 (Viru Centre),<br />
tel. 610 13 27. Open 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
IIDA - Estonian Textile, Design & Fashion C-2,<br />
Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 641 10 77, www.iidadesign.<br />
eu. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Ivo Nikkolo C-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372) 641 90<br />
57/(+372) 641 90 58, info@ivonikkolo.com, www.<br />
ivonikkolo.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Kairi Vilderson C-3, Aia 3 (WW Passaaž), tel. (+372)<br />
627 12 10, info@moemaja.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Lana Malysheva Boutique C-3, Uus 2, tel. (+372)<br />
631 32 54/(+372) 518 26 74. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Les Petites Disaini- ja Moebutiik C-3,<br />
Müürivahe 28, tel. (+372) 58 17 68 31,<br />
elena@lespetites.ee, www.lespetites.<br />
ee. Small local design shop featuring creation<br />
from over 80 Estonian designers, jewellers<br />
and handicrafters. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Monton C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372) 660<br />
18 47, www.montonfashion.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Naiiv B-3, Pikk 33, tel. (+372) 646 40 90, lviira@<br />
hotmail.com, www.naiiv.eu. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Namarie C-3, Müürivahe 21, tel. (+372) 53 43 07<br />
56, wenderol@hotmail.com. Original works by young<br />
Estonian fashion designers. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Nu Nordik D-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. (+372) 644 93<br />
92, nunordik@nunordik.ee, www.nunordik.ee. Clothes<br />
and more from young Estonian designers. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Studio Reet Aus B-3, Pikk 41, info@reetaus.com,<br />
www.reetaus.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. J<br />
Süda Boutique - Oksana Tandit C-2, Suur-Karja 2,<br />
tel. (+372) 646 75 35, suda@suda.ee, www.suda.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Vintage<br />
Foxy Vintage C-3, Vene 6, tel. (+372) 53 48 30 81.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Nolita Vintage C-3, Uus 3, tel. (+372) 58 10 84<br />
74, nolitavintage@gmail.com, www.nolitavintage.<br />
com. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Sun. J<br />
Oh So Retro D-2, Suur-Karja 13, tel. (+372) 53<br />
58 43 37, ohsoretrovintage@gmail.com. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Sireen Vintage Boutique D-3, Müürivahe 22, tel.<br />
(+372) 55 97 52 75, sireenvintage@gmail.com. Q<br />
Open on Thursdays 12:00 - 20:00, other times call ahead. J<br />
Fashion stores<br />
Accademia by Mario Melani C-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 674 18 46. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Bershka C-4, Rotermanni 12, tel. (+372) 664 50 05,<br />
bskrotermanni@apranga.com, www.bershka.com.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Elegance D-3, Väike-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 699 97 68.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Emporio Armani D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. (+372) 628<br />
22 72. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Esprit C-2, Raekoja plats 4, tel. (+372) 644 63 56.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: D-4,<br />
Melon Centre, Estonia pst 1/3, tel. 646 60 65. Open<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: C-4, Viru Centre,<br />
Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 58. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Fashion House Väike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 627 01 97,<br />
www.fashionhouse.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Gant D-3, Pärnu mnt 10, tel. (+372) 628 22 11, info@<br />
gant.ee, www.gant.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Guess C-4, Rotermanni 5 (Rotermanni quarter), tel.<br />
(+372) 666 77 62, guess@denimdream.ee. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at: D-4, Viru Centre,<br />
Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 15 12. Open 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Hugo Boss D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 06 10, hugoboss@apranga.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00<br />
- 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Jack & Jones C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping<br />
centre, tel. (+372) 631 47 66, www.jackjones.com.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU<br />
Lacoste Boutique C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre),<br />
tel. (+372) 664 50 09, lacoste@lacoste.ee, www.<br />
lacoste.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Lindex C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre,<br />
tel. (+372) 615 55 40, www.lindex.com. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU<br />
Marina Rinaldi C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 56 66 38 46,<br />
marinarinaldi@hot.ee, www.marinarinaldi.com. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
MaxMara D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 631 05 14, maxmara@hot.ee.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Persona D-2, Harju 5, tel. (+372) 57 81 04 09, personatallinn@gmail.com.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun<br />
11:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Replay G-3, Narva mnt. 5, Foorum centre, tel. (+372)<br />
664 04 31. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Sfäär Store B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372)<br />
56 99 22 25, store@sfaar.ee, www.sfaar.<br />
ee/store/. This stylish little shop locted<br />
inside a restaurant features brands such as;<br />
Acne, Nudie Jeans, Penguin, Woolrich, Barbour,<br />
Tricker’s, Red Wing Shoes, Parajumpers, Bluer, Canada<br />
Goose, EMU Australia etc. and a good selection of fine wines.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. JK<br />
StudioT C-4, Lai 36, tel. (+372) 641 19 46, www.<br />
studiot.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Also at: B-4, Rotermanni 5, Rotermann<br />
Centre Outlet Store, 664 50 02. Open 10:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Versace E-2, Roosikrantsi 23, tel. (+372) 648 80 00,<br />
www.versace.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Zara C-4, Viru Centre, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610<br />
13 66. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012
86 shoPPing shoPPing 87<br />
Home design<br />
Decorest Disain H-3, Tartu mnt. 33, tel. (+372) 504 75<br />
87, decorest@decorest.ee, www.decorest.ee. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ene ja Anni C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 53 65. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Laura Ashley D-3, Suur-Karja 23, tel. (+372) 627 01<br />
65, info@lauraashley.ee, www.lauraashley.ee. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Mang I-2, Pärnu mnt. 67B, tel. (+372) 656 73 92,<br />
mang@mang.ee, www.mang.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Muster J-2, Pärnu mnt. 139, tel. (+372) 679 17 46,<br />
info@muster.ee, www.muster.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.<br />
Teaspon J-2, Türi 4, tel. (+372) 650 87 15, kauplus@<br />
teaspon.ee, www.teaspon.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Universaal Universum B-3, Olevimägi 16, tel. (372)<br />
641 17 03, olevi@eksootika.ee, www.eksootika.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00.<br />
Also at: G-2, Telliskivi 60A, tel. 601 08 16. Open 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.<br />
Villeroy & Boch C-3, Valli 4, tel. (+372) 644 04 89,<br />
info@villeroy-boch.ee, www.villeroy-boch.com. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Zizi C-3, Vene 12, tel. (+372) 644 12 22, zizi@zizi.ee,<br />
www.zizi.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also<br />
at: C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. 644 11 55. Open 10:00- 18:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Lingerie<br />
Bonbon lingerie E-2, Pärnu mnt 21, tel. (+372)<br />
642 20 42, info@bonbonlingerie.com, www.bon.ee.<br />
Estonia’s very own brand of stylish and sexy underwear<br />
oozes femininity. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>timo C-3, Viru 17, tel. (+372) 644 68 76, info@<br />
intimo.ee, www.intimo.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 16:00. Also at: H-2, Pärnu mnt 38, tel 646 60<br />
01. Open 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun.<br />
La Perla Luxton Boutique E-2, Pärnu mnt 27,<br />
tel. (+372) 660 62 66, luxton.laperla@gmail.com,<br />
www.laperla-eesti.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Lauma C-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. (+372) 648 70 33,<br />
lauma@lauma.ee, www.lauma.ee. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Linette D-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. (+372) 648 54 00,<br />
info@linette.ee, www.linette.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-4, Viru väljak<br />
4/6 (Viru Centre), tel 610 13 76. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Jewellery<br />
A-galerii C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 646 41 01,<br />
info@agalerii.ee, www.agalerii.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Aurum C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. (+372) 644 98 74, aurum@aurum.ee,<br />
www.aurum.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
BeauMonde C-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. (+372) 620 92<br />
62, beaumonde@npm.ee, www.beaumonde.ee. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
by Karin E E-2, Roosikrantsi 8, tel. (+372) 56 21 65<br />
80, bykarine@bykarine.com, www.bykarine.com. Q J<br />
Goldman C-3, Suur-Karja 9, tel. (+372) 641 93 33,<br />
boutique@goldman.ee, www.goldman.ee. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Gold Market C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel. (+372) 644 40<br />
01, goldmarket@hot.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Juveel D-3, Pärnu mnt 8, tel. (+372) 644 42 16, myyk@<br />
juveel.ee, www.juveel.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Kuldgraal B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. (+372) 646 42<br />
01, www.kuldgraal.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. J<br />
Kuldsőrme Kullaäri D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. (+372) 640<br />
68 80, info@goldfinger.ee, www.goldfinger.ee. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Sangla juveelisalong C-2, Kullassepa 7, tel. (+372)<br />
644 23 13, sangla@online.ee, www.sangla.ee. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Time & Diamonds C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. (+372) 610<br />
15 99, info@royalboutique.ee, www.royalboutique.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 23, tel. 631 33<br />
77. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Leather & Fur<br />
Don & Donna D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. (+372) 641 42 92.<br />
Leather and fur. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J<br />
Linda C-3, Väike-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 644 91 71. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J<br />
Tunor C-3, Aia 10a, tel. (+372) 631 33 37. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Kids’ stuff<br />
Bambini B-3, Pikk 48, tel. (+372) 646 43 94. Baby and<br />
children’s clothes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Jacadi C-3, Väike-Karja 12, tel. (+372) 601 02 31.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 -<br />
16:00. J<br />
Juku Toy Centre Mustamäe tee 3, tel. (+372)<br />
652 55 50, mustamae@jukukeskus.ee, www.<br />
jukukeskus.ee. Toys. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Laste Maailm D-3, Pärnu mnt. 6, tel. (+372) 644<br />
93 80/(+372) 644 28 70, laste.maailm@mail.ee,<br />
www.lastemaailm.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Nukupood C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. (+372) 644<br />
30 58, www.nukupood.ee. Dolls and toys. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J<br />
Taibula H/I-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Centre), tel.<br />
(+372) 665 03 22, taibula@taibula.ee, www.taibula.<br />
ee. Educational and environmentally friendly toys. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 21:00. T<br />
Markets<br />
Balti Jaama Turg B-1, Kopli 1, tel. (+372) 644 61 28. A<br />
throwback to the Soviet-era, the market area behind the train<br />
station is where locals go to get spare parts, used clothes and<br />
sides of beef. This is one of our favourites for local colour but enter<br />
at your own risk. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Central Market (Keskturg) H-3/4, Keldrimäe 9, tel.<br />
(+372) 660 63 04. A popular destination for fresh food<br />
items. Also has clothing and other assorted 'treasures'. Take<br />
tram N°2 or N°4 from the centre towards Ülemiste, make<br />
sure to get off at the Keskturg stop. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00.<br />
Fish Market F-2, Kalaranna 1. Located on the aptly<br />
named 'Fish Beach' street, this speciality fish market has<br />
everything from shark fins to monk fish. We don't suggest<br />
taking anything from this market home as a souvenir though<br />
- your fellow passengers thank-you in advance. Q Open only<br />
on Saturdays 10:00 - 16:00.<br />
Knit Market (Sweater Wall) C-3, corner of Viru and<br />
Müürivahe. Little old ladies sell their knitwear here along the<br />
Old Town wall. Shopping here is almost a tradition for visitors.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Mere Art Market C-4, Mere pst. 1. Lots of knits on sale<br />
in the yard adjacent the tram stop. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Merekeskus A-4, Mere pst 10, tel. (+372) 644 91 38,<br />
merekeskus@talrand.ee. Cheap, tacky goods are sold here,<br />
mainly to Finnish day-trippers. Pick up some questionable underwear<br />
or 'genuine' CD. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Sadama Turg G-3, Sadama 25, info@sadamaturg.ee,<br />
www.sadamaturg.ee. Various Estonian handicrafts and<br />
food items can be found at this new market in the port area.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
Military memorabilia<br />
Kroonu Ait H-4, Gonsiori 28, tel. (+372) 601 01 64,<br />
info@kroonuait.ee, www.kroonuait.ee. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Military Antique C-2, Lai 4, tel. (+372) 641 26 06.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Second hand<br />
Humana G-3, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 669 13 23, www.<br />
humanae.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Sex Shop<br />
Hot Lips C-4, Viru 27, tel. (+372) 631 41 88, info@<br />
hotlips.ee, www.hotlips.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. J<br />
Shoes<br />
ABC King C-3, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372) 610 13<br />
85, viru@abcking.ee, www.abcking.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Rem King D-3, Väike-Karja 7, tel. (+372) 631 38 59,<br />
www.rem.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Salamander C-3, Viru 5, tel. (+372) 644 43 62. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Vivian Vau Shoe Salon C-2, Rataskaevu<br />
2, tel. (+372) 641 64 40, info@vivianvau.<br />
ee, www.vivianvau.ee. The exquisite shoes<br />
at Vivian Vau are imported mainly from Italy<br />
and Spain and are crafted from the finest<br />
materials and leathers. Sizes from 34- 45. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Delicatessens<br />
Chado C-3, Uus 11, tel. (+372) 648 43 18, www.<br />
chado.ee. Specialist teashop. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J<br />
Juustukuningad (Cheese Kings) B-4, Rotermanni<br />
5/Roseni 10, tel. (+372) 656 47 44, info@<br />
juustukuningad.ee, www.juustukuningad.ee. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Confiserie Friida C-2, Suur-<br />
Karja 2, tel. (+372) 661 94<br />
99, friida@friida.eu, www.<br />
friida.eu. This tiny little confiserie<br />
features a good selection<br />
of sweets, chocolates, gourmet<br />
Italian coffees, fine wines and a<br />
few other delicacies to savour. Stop by for an espresso<br />
or take some of their other goodies to go. QOpen 09:30<br />
- 14:30;15:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:30;15:00 -<br />
17:00. J<br />
Osteria del Gallo Nero C-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 646 21 07, osteria@italbaltica.com, www.<br />
osteriagallonero.com. This place is so Italian you may<br />
forget you’re in Tallinn. Expect all the best Italian wares,<br />
wines and conversation. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. J<br />
Don Gastronom B-4, Rotermanni 5/Roseni10,<br />
tel. (+372) 58 05 05 66, www.dongastronom.com.<br />
A variety of Spanish specialities such as wines, Jamón<br />
serrano, cheeses, olive oil and a whole lot more. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Vertigo Gourmet C-3, Viru 17, kauplus@vertigogourmet.ee,<br />
www.vertigogourmet.ee. Deli and café.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 -<br />
21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. JS<br />
Grocers<br />
Hyper Rimi (Norde Centrum) G-3, Lootsi 7, tel.<br />
(+372) 669 89 00, info.lootsi@rimibaltic.com, www.<br />
rimi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Kolmjalg (the Everything Store) C-2, Pikk 11,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 15 11. QOpen 24hrs. J<br />
Rimi C-3, Aia 7, tel. (+372) 644 38 55, kaubahall@<br />
rimibaltic.com, www.rimi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. J<br />
Solaris Food Shop D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris<br />
Centre), tel. (+372) 663 13 30, info@solaris.ee,<br />
www.solaris.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Stockmann H-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. (+372) 633 95 39,<br />
fax (+372) 633 95 56, www.stockmann.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULK<br />
Tallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372)<br />
667 31 00, tallinn@kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja.<br />
ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Westman E-2, Pärnu mnt 19, tel. (+372) 660 51<br />
82. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
October - November 2012<br />
Food
88 shoPPing<br />
Shopping centres<br />
De La Gardie C-3, Viru 13, tel. (+372) 681 80 78,<br />
ragne@estconde.ee. Centrally located with a variety of<br />
smaller shops and some bigger brand names too. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU<br />
Kristiine Centre H-1, Endla 45, tel. (+372) 665 03 41,<br />
www.kristiinekeskus.ee. A large, modern mall just outside<br />
the city centre. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. Prisma grocery store<br />
open 08:00 - 23:00. ULKW<br />
Norde Centrum G-3, Lootsi 7, tel. (+372) 669 89 00,<br />
nc.keskused.ee. A medium-sized place near the port, convenient<br />
if you’re leaving by ship. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. LW<br />
Rotermanni Kaubamaja B-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni<br />
10, tel. (+372) 626 42 00, info@rotermannikaubamaja.<br />
ee, www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee. This shopping complex<br />
in Tallinn’s newly developed and renovated Rotermanni<br />
district houses mainly upscale international brands. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JUL<br />
Solaris D/E-3/4, Estonia<br />
pst. 9, tel. (372) 615 51<br />
00, info@solaris.ee, www.<br />
solaris.ee. Although more of an<br />
all-in-one entertainment complex than purely a shopping<br />
centre, Solaris does have a reasonable amount of shops,<br />
often higher end, where you can leave your money in lieu<br />
of goods. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Shops open 10:00 -<br />
21:00. Restaurants open 10:00 - 23:00. JUFLK<br />
Stockmann<br />
H-3, Liivalaia 53,<br />
tel. (+372) 633<br />
95 39, www.<br />
stockmann.ee. The local branch of Finland's premiere<br />
department store is a somewhat high-end affair. Just about<br />
everything you can imagine is sold in the five-storey complex.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. ULKW<br />
Tallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. (+372) 667<br />
31 00, tallinn@kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja.ee.<br />
Tallinn’s giant, home-grown department store dates back<br />
to 1960, but has done a great job of keeping pace with the<br />
times. A glass gallery connects it to the Viru Keskus, where<br />
it has additional departments. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Food<br />
department open 09:00 - 22:00. JUKW<br />
The Foorum Centre G-3, Narva mnt. 5, info@foorumkeskus.ee,<br />
www.foorumshopping.ee. A collection of<br />
high-end shops, located at street level, in a beautifully designed<br />
building. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. JK<br />
Viru Keskus (Viru Centre)<br />
C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, tel.<br />
(+372) 610 14 44, fax (+372)<br />
610 14 01, info@virukeskus.<br />
com, www.virukeskus.com. This 30,000m2 shopping<br />
and dining complex a large, but very classy addition to<br />
downtown's commercial scene. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Food department open 09:00 - 22:00. JULFKW<br />
Ülemiste Centre I-5, Suur-Sőjamäe 4, next to Tallinn Airport,<br />
tel. (+372) 603 49 99, info@ulemiste.ee, www.ulemiste.ee.<br />
This gigantic, two-level shopping mall has hands-down the most<br />
retail space of any mall in town. For serious shoppers, it's worth<br />
the short trip from the centre. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
WW Passaaž C-3/4, Aia 3, tel. (+372) 627 12 00, www.wwpassaaz.ee.<br />
A three-storey cluster of mainly slightly odd fashion boutiques<br />
in Old Town. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JK<br />
Alcohol<br />
Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited<br />
from 22:00 until 10:00.<br />
Go Alko C-3, Aia 5b, tel. (+372) 55 62 56 05. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 19:00.<br />
Liviko C-3, Mere pst. 6, tel. (+372) 683 77 45,<br />
kplmere@liviko.ee, www.alcostore.ee.QOpen 10:00<br />
- 20:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40,<br />
Open 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Mindy C-2, Kullassepa 13, tel. (+372) 631 47 09.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
R-Alko C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. (+372) 641 98 70.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
Wine and beers of the world<br />
Alter Ego B-4, Roseni 8 (Rotermanni Quarter),<br />
tel. (+372) 54 56 03 39, info@alterego.ee, www.<br />
alterego.ee/e/alter-ego-wine-cellar.htm. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00. J<br />
Bestwine C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 622 89 76, info@<br />
bestwine.ee, www.bestwine.ee. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
19:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Drink Beer Shop D-3, Müürivahe 15, tel. (+372)<br />
641 24 27, www.drinkbaar.com. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
22:00. Closed Mon. J<br />
Finewine E-2, Pärnu mnt. 30, tel. (+372) 622 87 00,<br />
www.finewine.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Vino Veritas C-2, Lai 6, tel. (+372) 641 84 40,<br />
info@invinoveritas.ee, www.invinoveritas.ee. Wine<br />
shop. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Accountants<br />
Audest H-2, Liivalaia 5-65, tel. (+372) 646 32 67, fax<br />
(+372) 646 14 25, info@audest.ee, www.audest.ee.<br />
Deloitte E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. (+372) 640 65 00,<br />
fax (+372) 640 65 03, eesti@deloitteCE.com, www.<br />
deloitte.ee.<br />
Ernst & Young Baltic H-3, Rävala 4, tel. (+372)<br />
611 46 10, fax (+372) 611 46 11, tallinn@ee.ey.com,<br />
www.ey.com/ee.<br />
HansaConsult E-2, Pärnu mnt. 21, tel. (+372) 661<br />
64 17, fax (+372) 661 64 20, info@hansaconsult.ee,<br />
www.hansaconsult.ee.<br />
IMG Numeri D-4, Estonia pst 1/3, tel. (+372) 686<br />
71 10, fax (+372) 686 71 31, img@img.ee, www.<br />
img.ee.<br />
PwC E-2, Pärnu mnt. 15, tel. (+372) 614 18 00, fax<br />
(+372) 614 19 00, tallinn@ee.pwc.com, www.pwc.ee.<br />
Banks<br />
Krediidipank G-3, Narva mnt. 4, tel. (+372) 669<br />
09 21, fax (+372) 669 09 54, info@krediidipank.<br />
ee, www.krediidipank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Marfin Bank E-2, Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. (+372) 680 25<br />
00, fax (+372) 680 25 01, info@versobank.com, www.<br />
marfinbank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Nordea G-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 628 33<br />
00/1772, fax (+372) 628 32 01, eesti@nordea.com,<br />
www.nordea.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Sampo Pank D-4, Kaubamaja 4, tel. (+372) 680 08<br />
00, fax (+372) 675 33 21, info@sampopank.ee, www.<br />
sampopank.ee. QOpen 10.00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
SEB H-3, Tornimäe 2, tel. (+372) 665 51 00, fax<br />
(+372) 665 51 03, info@seb.ee, www.seb.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: E-2, Roosikrantsi<br />
2. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat-Sun.<br />
Swedbank H-2, Liivalaia 8, tel. (+372) 631 03 10,<br />
fax (+372) 631 04 10, info@swedbank.ee, www.swedbank.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at:<br />
H-3, Rävala pst 5. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Tallinn Business Bank (Tallinna Äripank) D-4,<br />
Estonia pst. 5a, tel. (+372) 668 80 60, fax (+372)<br />
668 80 65, info@tbb.ee, www.tbb.ee. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at: C-3,<br />
Vana-Viru 7. Open 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sat - Sun.<br />
Beauty care<br />
Abigail D-4, Rävala pst. 3 (Radisson Blu 5th floor),<br />
tel. (+372) 699 80 07, info@abigail.ee, www.abigail.<br />
ee. Hair salon and spa. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
De la Gardie Ilusalong C-3, Uus 7, tel. (+372) 631<br />
47 49, info@dlg.ee, www.dlg.ee. Hairstyling and facial<br />
treatments. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J<br />
Roosikrantsi Ilusalong H-3, Gonsiori 2 (Kaubamaja<br />
ground floor), tel. (+372) 669 13 00, roosike@roosike.<br />
ee, www.roosike.ee. This beauty salon has loads of refreshing<br />
and revitalising treatments for the weary traveller.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. JL<br />
Tiia Ilusalong D-4, Estonia pst. 1/3, tel. (+372)<br />
646 70 74, info@tiiakosmeetika.ee, www.tiiakosmeetika.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sun. J<br />
Viru Ilusalong (Viru Beauty Salon) C-4, Viru<br />
väljak 4, Sokos Hotel Viru 3rd floor, tel. (+372) 682<br />
09 90, info@viruilusalong.ee, www.viruilusalong.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16.00. JL<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
DireCtory<br />
Business connections<br />
American Chamber of Commerce D-2, Harju 6, tel.<br />
(+372) 631 05 22, fax (+372) 631 05 21, amcham@<br />
amcham.ee, www.amcham.ee.<br />
British Estonian Chamber of Commerce G-3, Ahtri<br />
6A, tel. (+372) 56 62 26 23, fax (+372) 626 43 60,<br />
becc@becc.ee, www.becc.ee.<br />
Enterprise Estonia H-4, Lasnamäe 2, tel. (+372) 627<br />
97 00, fax (+372) 627 97 01, eas@eas.ee, www.eas.<br />
ee. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Estonian Chamber of Commerce C-1, Toom-Kooli 17,<br />
tel. (+372) 604 00 60, fax (+372) 604 00 61, koda@<br />
koda.ee, www.koda.ee.<br />
German <strong>In</strong>dustry and Commerce in Estonia B-2,<br />
Suurtüki 4b, tel. (+372) 627 69 40, fax (+372) 627 69<br />
50, info.ee@ahk-balt.org, www.ahk-balt.org.<br />
Swedish Chamber of Commerce D-2, Rüütli 9 (<br />
Swedish St. Michael's Church in Tallinn), tel. (+372)<br />
501 98 13, info@swedishchamber.ee, www.swedishchamber.ee.<br />
Cultural centres<br />
Danish Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute C-3, Vene 14, tel./<br />
fax (+372) 646 63 73, info@dankultur.ee, www.<br />
dankultur.ee.<br />
Estonian <strong>In</strong>stitute D-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. (+372)<br />
631 43 55, fax (+372) 631 43 56, einst@einst.ee,<br />
www.einst.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Finnish <strong>In</strong>stitute C-2, Harju 1, tel. (+372) 631 39<br />
17, fax (+372) 631 39 52, tallinn@finst.ee, www.<br />
finst.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
French Cultural Centre C-2, Kuninga 4, tel. (+372)<br />
627 11 91, fax (+372) 627 11 98, info@ife.ee, www.<br />
institutfrancais-estonie.com. Library, resource centre<br />
and cultural events. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
German Cultural <strong>In</strong>stitute/Goethe-<strong>In</strong>stitute<br />
Tallinn B-2, Suurtüki 4b, tel. (+372) 627 69 60, fax<br />
(+372) 627 69 62, info@tallinn.goethe.org, www.<br />
goethe.de/tallinn. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00; 14:00 -<br />
17:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.<br />
GLIK (Gay and Lesbian <strong>In</strong>fo Centre), glik@gay.<br />
ee, www.gay.ee. Centre is currently closed, however,<br />
they can field questions by e-mail.<br />
Hungarian <strong>In</strong>stitute C-1, Piiskopi 2, tel./fax<br />
(+372) 644 08 17, unginst@unginst.org.ee, www.<br />
unginst.org.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Russian Cultural Centre C-4, Mere pst. 5,<br />
tel. (+372) 644 58 65, fax (+372) 641 83 01,<br />
venekeskus@venekeskus.ee, www.venekeskus.ee.<br />
The British Council D-2, Veerenni 24, tel. (+372)<br />
625 77 88, fax (+372) 625 77 99, info@britishcouncil.ee,<br />
www.britishcouncil.ee.<br />
October - November 2012<br />
89
90 DireCtory<br />
Car wash<br />
Rotermann car wash G-3, Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10<br />
(Rotermann underground parking), tel. (+372) 55 56<br />
20 07/(+372) 524 26 00, www.autogavanni.ee. <strong>In</strong>terior<br />
cleaning, hand wash, waxing, detailing and more. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. €16 for full hand wash<br />
including car mats.<br />
Daycare<br />
Kullapai Daycare J-2, Alevi 6, tel. (+372) 661 06<br />
37/(+372) 58 34 11 12, kullapai@kullapai.ee, www.<br />
kullapai.ee. Q Daycare open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
€6.00/hour.<br />
Väike Päike Daycare G-4, Tuukri 11, tel. (+372) 653<br />
63 66/(+372) 56 69 06 80, kesklinn@lasteklubi.ee,<br />
www.lasteklubi.ee/kesklinn.php. Q Daycare open Mon<br />
- Fri 07:30 - 18:30. €3.20 - 6.40/hour.<br />
Dry cleaners & laundrettes<br />
Italdryclean E-2, Roosikrantsi 9, tel. (+372) 631 38<br />
04, info@italdryclean.ee, www.italdryclean.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Kati Koduabi OÜ C-3, Uus 7, tel. (+372) 631 45 66.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Sol Eesti H-3, Maakri 23, tel. (+372) 661 20 75, www.<br />
sol.ee. Drycleaning and laundrette. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Laundrette open: 07:00 -<br />
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.<br />
Flowers<br />
Burman Garden H-3, Maakri 36, tel. (+372) 661 06<br />
34, lilled@burmaniaed.ee, www.burmaniaed.ee. Flowers<br />
and bouquets for all occasions. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Flower wall C-3, Beginning of Viru street. The most<br />
central and popular place to buy flowers in Old Town. QOpen<br />
24hrs. J<br />
Hobusepea Flowershop C-2, Hobusepea 10, tel.<br />
(+372) 648 18 41. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -<br />
16:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet service providers<br />
<strong>In</strong> addition to internet services most of these companies<br />
also offer cable television and even land-line telephone.<br />
Elion H-1, Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), tel.<br />
(+372) 165/(+372) 631 33 22, tallinn.kristiine@elion.<br />
ee, www.elion.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
Elisa C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372)<br />
660 06 00, info@elisa.ee, www.elisa.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Starman E-3, Rävala pst. 19, tel. (+372) 1770/(+372)<br />
677 99 00, klienditugi@starman.ee, www.starman.<br />
ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Tele2 C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. (+372)<br />
686 68 66, fax (+372) 686 68 77, tele2@tele2.ee,<br />
www.tele2.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Key cuts<br />
Fix-Serv C-3, Aia 3, (WW Passaaž), tel. (+372) 627 12<br />
34. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Locknet H-3, Maakri 28a, tel. (+372) 641 04 91, info@<br />
locknet.ee, www.locknet.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Lawyers<br />
Borenius E-2, Pärnu mnt. 15, tel. (+372) 665 18 88,<br />
fax (+372) 665 18 99, borenius@borenius.ee, www.<br />
borenius.ee.<br />
Hough, Hutt & Partners G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. (+372)<br />
644 62 27, fax (+372) 631 44 17, estlaw@neti.ee, www.<br />
hough-hubner-attorneys.ee.<br />
LAWIN C-2, Niguliste 4, tel. (+372) 630 64 60, fax<br />
(+372) 630 64 63, tallinn@lawin.ee, www.lawin.ee.<br />
Raidla Lejins & Norcous E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel.<br />
(+372) 640 71 70, fax (+372) 640 71 71, rln@rln.ee,<br />
www.rln.ee.<br />
Sorainen E-2, Pärnu mnt. 15, tel. (+372) 640 09 00,<br />
fax (+372) 640 09 01, estonia@sorainen.ee, www.<br />
sorainen.ee.<br />
Tark Grunte Sutkiene E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel.<br />
(+372) 611 09 00, fax (+372) 611 09 11, estonia@<br />
tgslegal.com, www.tarkgruntesutkiene.com.<br />
Libraries<br />
Central Library (Department of Foreign Literature)<br />
H-3, Liivalaia 40, tel. (+372) 683 09 60, vko@tln.lib.ee,<br />
www.keskraamatukogu.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
National Library of Estonia E-1, Tőnismägi 2, tel.<br />
(+372) 630 76 11, nlib@nlib.ee, www.nlib.ee. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Money transfer<br />
MoneyGram (Monex Exchange) C-3, Viru 23, tel.<br />
(+372) 644 01 09, info@monex-money.com, www.<br />
monex-money.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Western Union (Tallinn Post Office) C-4, Narva mnt.<br />
1, tel. (+372) 625 73 04, info@post.ee, www.post.ee.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also<br />
at: C-3, Viru 20, tel. 627 64 45. Open 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Notaries<br />
Aivar Mesikäpp H-3, Rävala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 699<br />
63 00, fax (+372) 699 63 01, info@notarnet.ee, www.<br />
notarnet.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Heli Mőttus E-3, Estonia pst. 15, tel. (+372) 610 39 30,<br />
fax (+372) 610 39 34, heli.mottus@notar.ee, www.notar.ee/18383.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00,<br />
Wed 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Piret Press G/H-3, Rotermanni 8, tel. (+372) 664<br />
52 77, fax (+372) 664 52 66, piret.press@notarid.ee,<br />
www.notar.ee/18383. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed<br />
13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Photo services<br />
Fotoluks C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372)<br />
610 13 17, viru@fotoluks.ee, www.fotoluks.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00. Also at: D-3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris centre),<br />
663 13 19, solaris@fotoluks.ee. Open 10:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Fotomeister D-4, Rävala 8, tel. (+372) 660 45 38,<br />
foto@fotomeister.ee, www.fotomeister.ee. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Shoe repair<br />
Fix-Serv C-3, Aia 3 (WW Passaž), tel. (+372) 627 12<br />
34. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Spa & Wellness<br />
Babor SPA G-3, Narva mnt. 5, tel. (+372) 664 04 88,<br />
info@baborspa.ee, www.baborspa.ee. Considered to be<br />
one of the top Day Spas in the city, Babor will pamper both<br />
the inner and outer you. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
City Spa H-3, Rävala pst. 4, tel. (+372) 640 02 00,<br />
terviseklubi@cityspa.ee, www.cityspa.ee. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Day Spa D-2, Vana-Posti 4, tel. (+372) 641 87 01,<br />
info@dayspa.ee, www.dayspa.ee. Beauty salon and spa.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J<br />
Meriton Wellness Spa G-2, Paldsiki mnt. 4, tel. (+372)<br />
628 82 21, wellness@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. D<br />
Olive Spa G-4, Narva mnt. 59, tel. (+372) 55 56 59 38/<br />
(+372) 621 72 01, info@olivespa.eu, www.olivespa.<br />
eu. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00<br />
- 18:00. W<br />
Pürovel Spa & Sport H-3, Tornimäe 3 (Swissotel 11th<br />
floor), tel. (+372) 624 11 11, purovel.tallinn@swissotel.<br />
com, purovel.com/en/tallinn.asp. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Spa services are available daily<br />
09:00 - 21:00. ULDC<br />
Shnelli Day Spa B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. (+372)<br />
631 01 60, info@spalife.ee, www.spalife.ee. Hair &<br />
beauty salon and a spa. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00<br />
- 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Telegraaf Spa C-3, Vene 9, tel. (+372) 600 06 16, spa@<br />
telegraafhotel.com, www.telegraafhotel.com. A small<br />
upscale spa. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. J<br />
Office supplies<br />
Baltram C-2, Lai 10, tel. (+372) 646 41 09, www.<br />
baltram.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J<br />
Real estate<br />
Arco Vara G-3, Jõe 2b, tel. (+372) 614 46 00, fax<br />
(+372) 614 46 01, tallinn@arcovara.ee, www.arcovara.ee.<br />
DTZ Kinnisvaraekspert G-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. (+372) 626<br />
42 50/(+372) 626 42 51, dtz.tallinn@dtz.ee, www.dtz.<br />
ee. QOpen 8:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Goodson & Red's Estonian Property Management<br />
G-3, Jõe 5, tel. (+372) 666 16 50/(+44) 20 32 86 16<br />
50, info@goodsonandred.com, www.goodsonandred.<br />
com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Majaekspert C-3, Viru 21, tel. (+372) 644 60 61,<br />
fax (+372) 646 62 12, info@majaekspert.ee, www.<br />
majaekspert.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Ober-Haus G-4, Narva mnt. 53, tel. (+372) 665 97 00,<br />
fax (+372) 665 97 01, estonia@ober-haus.com, www.<br />
ober-haus.com.<br />
Pindi Kinnisvara H-3, Tartu mnt. 16, tel. (+372) 610 39<br />
00, fax (+372) 610 39 01, tallinn@pindi.ee, www.pindi.<br />
ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Property in Estonia, tel. (+44) 870 768 1020,<br />
enquiries@property-in-estonia.co.uk, www.propertyin-estonia.co.uk.<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Kalev Spa Wellness Centre B-3, Aia<br />
18, tel. (+372) 649 33 50, wellness@<br />
kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. Offering<br />
top-notch treatment from professional staff<br />
of spa therapists. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Embassies<br />
DireCtory<br />
Translators & <strong>In</strong>terpreters<br />
Feanor H-3, Rävala pst. 3, tel. (+372) 56 56 37<br />
24, translations@feanor.com, www.feanor.com/<br />
trad_ee.htm.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terlex Translation Bureau I-2, Tatari 64, tel. (+372)<br />
630 96 60, interlex@interlex.ee, www.interlex.ee.<br />
Luisa Tőlkebüroo H-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. (+372) 626 42<br />
82/(+372) 626 42 88, tallinn@luisa.ee, www.luisa.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Pangloss H-4, Tartu mnt. 61 - 10, tel. (+372) 603 17<br />
70, pangloss@pangloss.ee, www.pangloss.ee.<br />
Tehnilise Tõlke Keskus (Technical Translation<br />
Centre) E-2, Pärnu mnt. 23, tel. (+372) 661 37 38,<br />
info@TranslationCo.eu, english.translationco.eu.<br />
Please refer to our website for the complete list.<br />
Canada C-1, Toomkooli 13, tel. (+372) 627 33 11/<br />
(+372) 627 33 10 (Visas), fax (+372) 627 33 12,<br />
tallinn@canada.ee, www.canada.ee.<br />
China G-5, Narva mnt. 98, tel. (+372) 601 58 30/<br />
(+372) 601 58 31, fax (+372) 601 58 33, mailoffice@chinaembassy.ee,<br />
www.chinaembassy.ee.<br />
Finland C-1, Kohtu 4, tel. (+372) 610 32 00, fax<br />
(+372) 610 32 81, sanomat.tal@formin.fi, www.<br />
finland.ee.<br />
France H-2, Toom-Kuninga 20, tel. (+372) 616 16<br />
00, fax (+372) 616 16 08, info@ambafrance-ee.org,<br />
www.ambafrance-ee.org.<br />
Germany H-2, Toom-Kuninga 11, tel. (+372) 627<br />
53 00, fax (+372) 627 53 04, info@tallinn.diplo.de,<br />
www.tallinn.diplo.de.<br />
Ireland C-3, Vene 2, tel. (+372) 681 18 88, fax<br />
(+372) 681 18 89, tallinnembassy@dfa.ie, www.<br />
embassyofireland.ee.<br />
Italy C-3, Vene 2, tel. (+372) 627 61 60, fax (+372)<br />
631 13 70, ambasciata.tallinn@esteri.it, www.<br />
ambtallinn.esteri.it.<br />
Latvia E-1, Tőnismägi 10, tel. (+372) 627 78 50,<br />
fax (+372) 627 78 55, embassy.estonia@mfa.gov.lv,<br />
consulate.estonia@mfa.gov.lv, consulate.estonia@<br />
mfa.gov.lv, www.am.gov.lv/en/estonia.<br />
Norway D-2, Harju 6, tel. (+372) 627 10 00, fax<br />
(+372) 627 10 01, emb.tallinn@mfa.no, www.<br />
norra.ee.<br />
Russia C-2, Pikk 19, tel. (+372) 646 41 75/(+372)<br />
646 41 69, fax (+372) 646 41 78, vensaat@online.<br />
ee, www.rusemb.ee.<br />
Sweden B-3, Pikk 28, tel. (+372) 640 56 00, fax<br />
(+372) 640 56 95, ambassaden.tallinn@foreign.<br />
ministry.se, www.sweden.ee.<br />
UK H-2, Wismari 6, tel. (+372) 667 47 00, fax (+372)<br />
667 47 56, infotallinn@fco.gov.uk, ukinestonia.<br />
fco.gov.uk.<br />
USA E-3/4, Kentmanni 20, tel. (+372) 668 81 00,<br />
fax (+372) 668 82 65, USAsaatkond@state.gov,<br />
estonia.usembassy.gov.<br />
October - November 2012<br />
91
92 health street register health<br />
Most travellers' biggest health concern is the quality of the<br />
water. Well, here in Estonia depending on the location, the<br />
taste can take some getting used to, but we've been drinking<br />
the water for years without any adverse effects. <strong>In</strong> most<br />
areas, however, the water is remarkably hard (i.e. high in mineral<br />
content), which means it takes a lot longer to rinse the<br />
shampoo out of your hair. Medical services are fairly cheap in<br />
Estonia. Though the quality of service has improved dramatically<br />
over the past decade, most Western residents still go<br />
to Finland or elsewhere when a major operation is needed.<br />
<strong>In</strong>terestingly, the number of foreigners coming to Estonia for<br />
cheaper cosmetic surgery and dental work is on the rise. For<br />
a less extreme - and less painful - type of bargain, you can<br />
consider getting your perscription glasses made here.<br />
Clinics & Hospitals<br />
Fertilitas Private Hospital Kaluri tee 5a, Viimsi, tel.<br />
(+372) 605 96 05/(+372) 605 96 00, fax (+372) 605<br />
96 99, fertilitas@fertilitas.ee, www.fertilitas.ee. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at: E-4,<br />
Kaupmehe 4, 660 40 72, 646 35 39. Open Mon-Fri 08:00<br />
- 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Regional Hospital of North Estonia - Mustamäe<br />
block J.Sütiste tee 19, tel. (+372) 617 13 00, info@<br />
regionaalhaigla.ee, www.regionaalhaigla.ee.<br />
Tallinn Central Hospital H-3, Ravi 18, tel. (+372) 622<br />
70 70, info@itk.ee, www.itk.ee.<br />
Tallinn Children's Hospital H-3, Tervise 28, tel.<br />
(+372) 697 71 13/(+372) emergency 697 71 94, info@<br />
lastehaigla.ee, www.lastehaigla.ee.<br />
Tallinn Magdaleena Hospital & Policlinics I-2, Pärnu<br />
mnt. 104, tel. (+372) 622 7070, www.itk.ee.<br />
Dentists<br />
Biolase H-3, Tartu mnt. 28, tel. (+372) 641 86 25/<br />
(+372) 56 49 36 96, info@biolase.ee, www.biolase.ee.<br />
Private clinic offering laser whitening.<br />
Tallinna Hambapolikliinik E-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 612 12 00, info@hambapol.ee, www.hambapol.<br />
ee. Large, state clinic. Call here in an emergency. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.<br />
Terve Hammas H-4, Faehlmanni 5, tel. (+372) 646 14<br />
93, tervehammas@tervehammas.ee, www.tervehammas.ee.<br />
English-speaking service.<br />
Viru Hambakliinik G-3, Hobujaama 4, tel. (+372) 660<br />
23 02, info@viruhambakliinik.ee, www.viruhambakliinik.<br />
ee. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. J<br />
Massage<br />
Aurea Massage Studio G-3, Narva mnt. 7d, tel. (+372)<br />
669 67 73/(+372) 56 93 76 77, info@aurea.ee, www.<br />
aurea.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian Ayurveda Massage H-2, Toompuiestee 18, tel.<br />
(+372) 604 21 72, info@hrishy.com, www.ayurveda.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Urgent care<br />
Need help now? The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11<br />
45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need<br />
be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need<br />
cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tõnismäe<br />
pharmacy (see pharmacies). For dramatic situations that<br />
require and ambulance, call tel. 112. Emergency operators<br />
speak English.<br />
Massage club<br />
Hedone C-3, Sauna 1, tel.<br />
(+372) 631 34 04, info@<br />
hedone.ee, www.hedone.ee.<br />
A different kind of escape from the brutal Baltic weather is<br />
this sophisticated, oriental massage club. Slip on a comfy<br />
robe, sink into a deep sofa, take a puff on the water pipe<br />
and get wet in the Jacuzzi that dominates the main room.<br />
Before you ask, here 'massage' means just that, though<br />
the hands-on staff wear alluring belly-dancers' outfits.<br />
There are several varieties of massages available. Reservation<br />
is recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Mon,<br />
Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. JX<br />
Kaarli Massaaži Keskus H-2, Toompuiestee 4, tel.<br />
(+372) 611 91 14/(+372) 515 29 99, info@kaarlimassaaz.ee,<br />
www.kaarlimassaaz.ee. Q N<br />
Thai Rose Spa C-4, Vana-Viru 13, tel. (+372) 625<br />
89 10/(+372) 56 63 40 00, info@thairose.ee, www.<br />
thairose.ee. Thai massage performed by specialists from<br />
Thailand. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 20:00. J<br />
Opticians<br />
Eagle Vision D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. (+372) 627 01<br />
10, parnumnt@eagle-vision.ee, www.eagle-vision.ee.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>strumentarium C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6 (Viru centre),<br />
tel. (+372) 610 13 61, viru@instru.ee, www.instru.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Lens Optika G-3, Narva mnt. 5 (Foorum Centre), tel.<br />
(+372) 664 04 40, foorumkeskus@lensoptika.ee, www.<br />
lensoptika.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.<br />
Norman Optika H-3, Rävala pst. 6, tel. (+372) 633<br />
53 02, ravala@normanoptika.ee, www.normanoptika.<br />
ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pere Optika C-3, Aia 3/ Vana Viru 10 (WW Passaaž),<br />
tel. (+372) 661 60 07, www.optiline.ee. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Apteek 1 C-3/4, Aia 7 (Rimi supermarket), tel. (+372)<br />
648 41 99, www.apteek1.ee. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat<br />
09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J<br />
Tőnismäe Apteek E-1, Tőnismägi 5, tel. (+372) 644<br />
22 82, www.südameapteek.ee. Q Open 24hrs.<br />
Ülikooli apteek D-4, Kaubamaja 3 (Viru Centre), tel.<br />
(+372) 669 13 80, kaubamaja@ya.ee, www.ya.ee.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Saunas<br />
Club 26 H-3, Liivalaia 33, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia,<br />
tel. (+372) 631 55 85/(+372) 631 53 00, olympia.<br />
club26@radissonblu.com, www.club26.ee. On the 26th<br />
floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia. 20€/hr until 15:00,<br />
40€/hr after. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.<br />
Kalev Spa Hotel & Water Park B-3/4, Aia 18, tel.<br />
(+372) 649 33 00, kalevspa@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee.<br />
Three VIP saunas €35 - 49/hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Kalma Saun A-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a, tel. (+372) 627<br />
18 11, www.kalmasaun.ee. Tallinn’s oldest public bath.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Men €8 - 9/<br />
person, women €6.50 - 8/person. Two private saunas also<br />
available for rent by the hour. N<br />
Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Aarde G-1<br />
Adamsoni H-2<br />
Ahtri G-3<br />
Aia C/D-4<br />
Aida B-2<br />
Alevi J-2<br />
Alle G-5<br />
Allika H-3<br />
Ao H-2<br />
Apteegi C-3<br />
Aru F/G-1<br />
Asula I/J-2<br />
Asunduse H-5<br />
Auli J-1/2<br />
Auna G-1<br />
Auru J-3<br />
Bensiini G-5<br />
Bremeni käik C-3<br />
Dunkri D-2<br />
Eha H-2<br />
Endla H-1/2<br />
Erika F-1<br />
Estonia pst E-3/4<br />
Faehlmanni H-4<br />
Falgi D-1<br />
Filmi G-5<br />
Filtri I-4<br />
Gildi H-4<br />
Gonsiori H-3/5<br />
Gümnaasiumi C-2<br />
Haigru I-1<br />
Hane J-1<br />
Haraka J-2<br />
Hariduse H-3<br />
Härjapea G-1<br />
Harju D/E-2<br />
Hauka I-2<br />
Heina F-1/G-2<br />
Hermanni H-4<br />
Herne I-3<br />
Hõbeda H-4<br />
Hobusepea C-2<br />
Imanta H-4<br />
<strong>In</strong>seneri C-4<br />
<strong>In</strong>valiidi H/I-3<br />
Jahu F-3<br />
Jakobi H-4<br />
Jakobsoni H-4<br />
Järvevana I-4/J-3<br />
Joa G-6<br />
Jõe G-4<br />
Juhkentali H-3/I-4<br />
Kaarli pst E-1/2<br />
Käbliku I-1<br />
Kadri G-6<br />
Kadriorg G-5<br />
Kaera F-1<br />
Kai G-3<br />
Kajaka J-1<br />
Kalasadama F-3<br />
Kalevi F-2<br />
Kalju F-2<br />
tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />
Kannikese H-1<br />
Kännu I/J-1<br />
Käo J-1/2<br />
Karjavärava D-3<br />
Karu G-4<br />
Kasvu H-1<br />
Katariina käik C-3<br />
Kauba I-2/J-3<br />
Kauka H-3<br />
Kauna I-3<br />
Kaupmehe H-3<br />
Kauri I-1<br />
Keemia H-1<br />
Keldrimäe H-4<br />
Kentmanni H-3<br />
K-Kalamaja B-1<br />
Kesk-Ameerika I-2<br />
Kesk-Sõjamäe J-6<br />
Kevade H-2<br />
Kibuvitsa H-1<br />
Killustiku H-5<br />
Kinga C-2<br />
Kiriku C/D-1<br />
Kiriku põik C-1<br />
Kiriku plats D-1<br />
Kivimurru I-5<br />
Kodu I-3<br />
Kohtu D-2<br />
Koidu H/I-2<br />
Koidula G-4/H-5<br />
Köie F-2<br />
Kolde G-1<br />
Köleri G-4/5<br />
Kollane H-4<br />
Komandandi E-1<br />
Komeedi H-2<br />
Kooli B-2<br />
Kopli B-1<br />
Koskla H/I-1<br />
Kotka I/J-2<br />
Kotkapoja I-2<br />
Kotzebue A-1/2<br />
Kreutzwaldi H-4<br />
Kristiina I-2<br />
Kuhlbarsi H-4<br />
Kullassepa D-2<br />
Kullerkupu H-1<br />
Kulli J-1<br />
Kunderi H-4<br />
Kungla F-2<br />
Kuninga D-2<br />
Kure J-1<br />
Kuristiku G-6<br />
Laagna G/H-6<br />
Laboratooriumi B-2<br />
Lagle I-2<br />
Lahe G-5<br />
Lai B-3/C-2<br />
Lasnamäe G/H-6<br />
Lastekodu H/I-4<br />
Laulupeo H-4<br />
Lauteri H-3<br />
Lehe I/J-1<br />
Lembitu H-3<br />
Lennujaama I-5<br />
Lennuki H-3<br />
Liblika I-1<br />
Liivalaia H-3/4<br />
Liivamäe H-4<br />
Lille H-1<br />
Linda G-2<br />
Lindamägi H-2<br />
Linnu tee J-1<br />
Lootsi G-4<br />
Lõkke H-2<br />
Lõokese J-2<br />
Lubja H-4<br />
Luha I-2<br />
Luige I-1<br />
Luise H-2<br />
Luste F-1<br />
Lühike jalg D-2<br />
Madara H-1/2<br />
Mäekalda G/H-5<br />
Magasini H/I-3<br />
Magdaleena J-2<br />
Maisi G-1<br />
Majaka H/I-5<br />
Malmi G-2<br />
Maneezhi G-3<br />
Mardi H-4<br />
Mehaanika H/I-1<br />
Mere A/D-4<br />
Metalli H-1<br />
Mineraali H-1<br />
Mooni H/I-1<br />
Mulla G/H-1<br />
Mündi C-2<br />
Munga C-3<br />
Muti J-1<br />
Müürivahe C-3/D-2<br />
Nafta G-4<br />
Narva G-3/6<br />
Nepi I-2<br />
Nevski D-2<br />
Niguliste D-2<br />
Niine A-1/2<br />
Nisu F/G-1<br />
Nõmme I-2<br />
Nunne C-1/2<br />
Odra H-4<br />
Olevimägi B/C-3<br />
Oleviste B-3<br />
Orase G-1<br />
Oru G-6<br />
Otsa E-3<br />
Paavli F-1<br />
Pae H-6<br />
Paekaare H-6<br />
Paekivi I-5<br />
Pagari B-3<br />
Paide J-2/3<br />
Paldiski H-2<br />
Pärna H-4<br />
Pärnu I-3/J-2<br />
Peterburi I-5/6<br />
Petrooleumi G-4/5<br />
Piiskopi D-1<br />
Pikk B-3/C-2<br />
Pikk jalg D-2<br />
Pirita F-6/G-5<br />
Planeedi I-2<br />
Põhja A-4/B-2<br />
Poska G-5<br />
Preesi G-1<br />
Pronksi G/H-4<br />
Punane H-6<br />
Pühavaimu C-3<br />
Raekoja D-2<br />
Raekoja plats D-2<br />
Rahukohtu C-1<br />
Rannamäe B-1/4<br />
Rapla J-2<br />
Rataskaevu C-2<br />
Raua G/H-4<br />
Rävala H-3<br />
Ravi H-3<br />
Reinvaldi H-4<br />
Roheline aas H-5<br />
Rohu G-2<br />
Roopa H-2<br />
Roosikrantsi H-3<br />
Roseni B-4<br />
Rotermanni C-4<br />
Rukki F-1<br />
Rutu C-1<br />
Rüütli D/E-2<br />
Sadama G-3<br />
Saiakang C-2<br />
Sakala E-3<br />
Saku J-2<br />
Salme F-2<br />
Saturni I-2<br />
Saue G-2<br />
Sauna D-3<br />
Sõle G/H-1<br />
Sõpruse pst I/J-1<br />
Spordi I/J-2<br />
Staadioni H-4<br />
Süda H-3<br />
Sügise G-2<br />
Suitsu J-3<br />
Sulevimägi B-3<br />
Suur Kloostri C-2<br />
Suur Rannavärav A-3<br />
Suur-Ameerika H-2<br />
Suur-Karja D-3<br />
Suur-Laagri F-2<br />
Suurgildi C-2<br />
Suurtüki B-2<br />
Tartu H-4/J-6<br />
Tatari H/I-3<br />
Teatri square E-4<br />
Tedre I-1/J-2<br />
Tehnika G/I-2<br />
Telliskivi G-2/H-1<br />
Terase G/H-4<br />
Tihase I-1<br />
Tina G-4<br />
Tobiase H-4<br />
Tolli B-3<br />
Tondi J-2<br />
Tõnismägi H-2<br />
Toom-Kooli D-1<br />
Toom-Rüütli C-2<br />
Toompea E-1<br />
Toompuiestee C-1<br />
Toonela I-4<br />
Tööstuse A-1<br />
Tormi G-5<br />
Town Hall D-2<br />
Tuha H-5<br />
Tulbi H-1<br />
Tulika H-1/I-2<br />
Turba G-6<br />
Türi J-2/3<br />
Tuukri G-4<br />
Tuulemäe I-5<br />
Tüve J-1<br />
Tuvi H-2<br />
Türnpu H-4<br />
Ülemiste tee I-5<br />
Uue maailma I-2<br />
Uus B/D-3<br />
Uus turg D-3<br />
Uus-Kalamaja F-2<br />
Uus-Sadama G-4<br />
Vabaduse v. E-2<br />
Vabriku G-2<br />
Väike-Ameerika I-2<br />
Väike-Karja D-3<br />
Väike-Kloostri C-2<br />
Väike-Laagri F-2<br />
Väike-Sõjamäe J-6<br />
Vaimu B/C-3<br />
Valli D-3<br />
Vana-Kalamaja B-1<br />
Vana turg D-3<br />
Vana-Lõuna I-3<br />
Vana-Viru D-4<br />
Vana-Posti D-2<br />
Vanaturu kael D-2<br />
Vase G-4<br />
Veerenni I/J-3<br />
Veetorni H-2<br />
Vene C-3<br />
Vesivärava G-4<br />
Videviku I-2<br />
Vilmsi G-4<br />
Vineeri I-3<br />
Virmalise I-2<br />
Viru D-3/4<br />
Võidujooksu G-6<br />
Võistluse I-4<br />
Voorimehe C-2<br />
Weidemanni G-4<br />
Weizenbergi G-5<br />
Wismari E-1<br />
October - November 2012<br />
93
RESTORAN<br />
Restaurant Ribe<br />
Vene 7, 10123 Tallinn<br />
+ 372 631 3084<br />
Open Mon-Sat 12-23<br />
www.ribe.ee<br />
RESTAURANT PLATZ<br />
ROSENI 7, TALLINN<br />
+ 372 664 5086<br />
INFO@PLATZ.EE<br />
OPEN Sun-Thurs 11-22, Fri-Sat 11-23<br />
WWW.PLATZ.EE
STOCKMANN<br />
department store – the best place<br />
for shopping in Tallinn!<br />
A wide and inspiring selection of international<br />
brands and goods can be found in our fashion,<br />
cosmetic, electronics, home and food department.<br />
You can also visit our liquor store, restaurant,<br />
coffee-shops, beauty salons and golf-studio.<br />
We wait for you in Stockmann! ann!<br />
LIIVALAIA 53, TALLINN • WWW.STOCKMANN.EE