WROCŁAW - In Your Pocket

82 SHOPPING
Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of
queueing around the corner for the off-chance of buying a
crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shopfronts are stocked with
everything you’d expect to find in a cosmopolitan metropolis,
with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around
the market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska.
Odrzańska, Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home to
upmarket boutiques and galleries, Jatki (A-2) is known for its
row of artisan galleries, and souvenir hunters will find plenty
in the small stores hidden along the avenues underneath the
Town Hall. For familiar international labels and big brands,
look no further than one of Wrocław’s glistening new shopping
malls; there are several comfortably within the city
centre, while Magnolia Park is Wrocław’s largest consumer
temple, a short cab ride away. Lastly, don’t miss visiting Hala
Targowa for a truly Polish cultural experience while catching
a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops close early
on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.
Alcohol
You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking
culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the
country’s success at football. Indeed, nothing says ‘I’ve been
to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the
second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling
and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland
can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland.
As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir
list, even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin
are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t
miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey
vodka), Żołądkowa (herbal stomach liqueur) and Goldwasser
with its signature gold flakes.
Winnica Adoria ul. Żurawia 33, Zachowice, tel. (+48)
605 04 24 33, www.winnicaadoria.pl. When thinking of
wines made in Poland it can be difficult to imagine… well,
that they actually come from Poland. Winnica Adoria wines
come directly from a Polish vineyard about 20 kms south of
the city. You can, of course, visit their winery in person and
try some of their specialties on site. Keep in mind, however,
that you’ll need to drive back to the city at some point and
- just like everywhere else - drinking and driving is a deadly
serious matter in Poland. American owned and run since
2005, Adoria is still too young to have many older vintage
wines, but they do make Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
and others. Recent years range from 50-90 zł per bottle
and can be bought in person or online. Visit their website if
you’d like to make an excursion to Polish ‘wine country’ and
see the vineyard for yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. For
centuries amber drew craftsmen, traders and thieves to
Central Europe and the Baltic. While the thieves may be
gone, amber and its enthusiasts remain, and today Poland
is renowned for its craftsmen who handsomely shape the
fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery.
Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold
and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
Galeria Biżuterii Artystycznej Derecki E-6, ul.
Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady Wrocławskie), tel.
(+48) 691 59 43 34, www.derecki.art.pl. Unfortunately
forced to move further from the centre, this is still an excellent
shop and worth a look even if you’re not in the market for
a rare meteorite ring. Master goldsmith Sławomir Derecki
has won numerous awards and applies his skill to exclusive
amber pieces, fossils, moon rocks, crystals and more. In
addition to apparently ‘inventing’ a new kind of amber a few
years ago, Derecki is also an avid historian and collector who
incorporates authentic ancient Greek and Roman artefacts
into his work and even makes his own high-quality handmade
Roman weaponry and period costumes. What does your dad
do? QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Schubert B-3, Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48)
71 343 95 51. Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has
an impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed
jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also
offer other precious stones and metals and took a page out of
the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If amber
is on your Wroclaw to-do list, Schubert will do nicely without
killing your travel budget or drawing you away from the heart
of the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Magic Silver A-3, ul. Odrzańska 7. This small family-run
shop just off the market square specialises in high quality
silver jewellery that incorporates semi-precious stones and
certified authentic amber pieces. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From October open 11:00 -
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Art & Antiques
Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll find
no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. As you walk
about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with the
inscriptions ‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul.
Kiełbaśnicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable
dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but
there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures
to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that
is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value
out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order
first (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper dealers can
provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before
opening your wallet.
For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki
(A-2). In addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow,
most charming and possibly most touristy street, this row of
former medieval butcher stalls is today home exclusively to
artist studios and galleries, with the exception of one small
art supply shop. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit
our Culture section.
Galeria Antyki Ars Silesia A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 29,
tel. (+48) 71 372 46 91. Antiques, coins, military objects,
porcelain, glass and paintings - with a focus on Lower Silesian
art from the interwar period. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
Non-EU residents can claim VAT
refunds on purchases made in shops
bearing the Global Blue logo. The
only condition is a minimum outlay
of 200zł on your part on the item
purchased. Claim your Tax Refund
Cheque, have it stamped at customs
before claiming your money back at
your nearest Global Blue Customer
Service. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Galeria Domus A-2, ul. Jatki 7/8, tel. (+48) 71 344 53
15, www.galeriadomus.pl. Graphic art, jewellery, ceramic,
glasswork and more. Also at (A-3) ul. Więzienna 1/4. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Galeria Retro A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71
343 90 84, www.galeria-retro.com. Antique (rather than
‘retro’ in the western sense) store specialising in glassware,
ceramics, clothes and jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Inny Świat w Piwniczce Gotyckiej A-3, ul.
Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 61 03. 76 square
metres of art and antiques from all over the world located
in a gothic brick cellar. The extensive collection includes
a large range of silver, porcelain, Art Nouveau glass, Art
Deco furniture, Polish and German graphics, paintings
and sculpture. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. Opening hours could not be confirmed before
press time.
Books, Music & Film
De’ Molika B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48)
71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl. Closest thing in Wrocław
to the indy record store you’ve always wanted to open. Run
by two devoted owners this tiny shop has all the new and
vintage vinyl you won’t find in the megastores. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Empik Megastore B-3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 71
343 39 90, www.empik.com. This massive store selling
books, music, movies, video games, coffee, greeting cards
and more, also has the best selection of foreign papers
and magazines in town, though you can expect to pay a
hefty mark-up for the privelege. Dictionaries, phrase books,
maps and a limited English language fiction section are also
inside. Other locations in Magnolia Park, Pasaż Grunwaldzki
and Renoma (see Shopping Malls). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Falanster E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 609
66 13 30, www.falanster.pl. One of Wrocław’s most
switched-on venues, this hip hangout takes on many guises,
including gallery, bookstore, free trade cafe, concert venue,
and counter-culture meeting grounds, wearing all of them
well simultaneously, and with complete seriousness. Head
here to hang with local artists and activists, while enjoying
delicious coffee and perusing an expanding selection of
English-language books from Kraków’s Massolit. Recommended.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
Souvenirs & Tourist service
Geschenke & Stadtrundfährte
Pamiątki & Usługi turystyczne
Plac Solny 20, Wrocław
tel. +48 71 799 90 01
biuro@nasolnym.pl, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can most
easily be found in Wrocław’s shopping malls, though you’ll find
some clothing brands along the pedestrian streets Świdnica
and Oławska. High quality Polish brands include Reserved,
Vistula, Wittchen and Tatuum, none of which as you’ll
notice actually sound Polish, apparently part of a sly, shared
business plan to increase marketability. For a more local
take on consumerism, do some loitering around the massive
clothing market on Plac Zielińskiego (see Markets) or visit
one of the find secondhand clothing stores marked ‘Tania
Odzież’ (Cheap Clothes) you’ll see scattered about the city.
These stores range in quality, from items sorted in dishevelled
bins to others on actual hangers; many are priced by
weight and all have that distinctive embalmed babcia smell.
polish amber jewellery
with certificate of authenticity
Magic Silver
ul. Odrzańska 7B
50-113 Wrocław
puki.co@o2.pl
September - December 2012
83