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WROCŁAW - In Your Pocket

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80 LEISURE<br />

Though skirt-watching and spirit-sipping in the city’s cafés<br />

and beer gardens is perhaps the most popular local leisure<br />

activity, our Leisure section is more designed to help you get<br />

out and make the most of a sunny day, or stay active during<br />

a dreary one. Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities,<br />

Wrocław offers plenty of recreation opportunities on top<br />

of its great architecture, nightlife and culture. With a scenic<br />

location on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city<br />

boasts kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as<br />

well as kayak rentals and river cruises. Locals flock to the<br />

Botanical and Japanese Gardens in spring time, and there<br />

are plenty of city-centre public parks to relax in from Ostrów<br />

Tumski to Partisan Hill (see Sightseeing). The historical<br />

Partynice Racecourse and amazing Adrenalina Park are<br />

outstanding day-outings, the Municipal Swimming Pools<br />

are a hidden gem and the Water Park is one of the best in<br />

the country. Football fans also have the chance to see one<br />

of Poland’s biggest clubs - Śląsk Wrocław - in a brand-new<br />

state-of-the-art stadium. Whatever your interest, be it golf or<br />

yoga, the area has something to offer you, so use the listings<br />

below to stay active in every season.<br />

Adrenaline Sports<br />

Active Poland G-4, ul. Kościuszki 25, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />

82 10, www.activepoland.com. Active Poland organises<br />

group activities including go-karting, paintball, shooting, rafting,<br />

hovercraft rides, kayaking and naughtier evenings out for<br />

the boys. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun open on request.<br />

Kwatera Główna C-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48)<br />

531 63 80 00, www.kwateraglowna.pl. Organised laser<br />

tag in a specially designed maze arena for 2-10 person<br />

groups. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />

40zł per person per hour.<br />

Le Mans ul. Czekoladowa 5-22 (Bielany Wrocławskie),<br />

tel. (+48) 600 24 38 56, www.lemans.net.pl. A 450m<br />

go-karting track with high speed corners available for individuals<br />

or groups. If you can prove that it is your birthday they<br />

will give you an 8 minute go for free. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

10 minutes 28zł, 22 mins 56zł, 35 mins 84zł, 65 mins 140zł.<br />

X-action E-3, ul. Łęczycka 20/8, tel. (+48) 502 02 25<br />

78, www.x-action.pl. The largest company in Lower Silesia<br />

organising adventure activities for groups and companies,<br />

including paintball, quads and off-road rallies in the dramatic<br />

and beautiful terrain south of Wrocław, often followed by<br />

campfire barbeques. <strong>In</strong> summer rafting, parachuting, hanggliding,<br />

climbing and ballooning are also available. Prices<br />

arranged by phone. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />

Bike Rental<br />

Few things are more lovely than cycling around Wrocław on<br />

a sunny day, as the plethora of long-legged loose-skirted<br />

citizens doing just that will attest. Full of bridges, canals and<br />

green riverfront, Wrocław didn’t just draw the nickname of<br />

‘Poland’s Venice’ out of a hat at the tourist bureau. This is<br />

one of Poland’s greenest cities with 180 kilometres of cycling<br />

paths to back it up. Having a bike is not only a great way to<br />

negate a night of hard living but also an ideal way to take in<br />

the city’s natural beauty and visit further out destinations like<br />

the lovely Szczytnicki Park (I-4/5) to the east and further<br />

south to Rackowiecki forest (I-6). Despite a recent action<br />

by the city to designate specific parking space for bicycles in<br />

front of many Wrocław venues, actually renting a bike is not<br />

nearly as easy as it should be, but hopefully our listings below<br />

will help. If looking to rent a children’s bike, give Czerwony<br />

Stoliczek (B-2, ul. Więzienna 6) a try.<br />

Cinnamon B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48)<br />

71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Cinnamon<br />

hostel is happy to rent you a bike when you leave your ID<br />

or 100zł as collateral. The cost is 8zł an hour, but you may<br />

as well just leave them 30zł and take it for the entire day.<br />

Bowling & Billiards<br />

NEW<br />

Bandaclub E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky<br />

Tower), tel. (+48) 71 798 08 55, www.bandaclub.pl. <strong>In</strong> a<br />

town that already has an unusually high number of pool halls,<br />

this new billiards complex on the second floor of Sky Tower<br />

puts them all to shame. Comprising 852m2 with 27 tables<br />

total - 23 for billiards, 4 for snooker, a bar and plenty of seating,<br />

tournaments are organised regularly and you can also<br />

take classes under the tutelage of current Polish snooker<br />

champ, Krzystof Wróbel. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Prices range<br />

from 18-25zł per hour for the table of your choice.<br />

Fuga Mundi C-5, Pl. Grunwaldzki 12-14, tel. (+48)<br />

787 31 68 58, www.fugamundi.pl. Offering professional<br />

billiards and snooker tables, table football and darts. There<br />

is also a game room for smokers and a bar. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Snooker tables cost 18zł per<br />

hour up to 16:00 and 24zł per hour after. Pool tables 14zł<br />

per hour up to 16:00 and 22zł per hour after.<br />

Sezam Prestiż B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 71 344<br />

85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. Just off the main square, this<br />

billiards bar covers 600m2 with 17 professional pool tables,<br />

one professional snooker table and plenty of beer and spirits.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. 10-25zł/h.<br />

NEW<br />

SkyBowling E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky<br />

Tower), tel. (+48) 71 712 83 33, www.skybowling.pl. Full of<br />

shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique colour changing<br />

ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-the-art bowling alley on the<br />

2nd floor of Sky Tower will host the 48th Bowling World Cup from<br />

November 24th - December 2nd. Find 24 lanes, plus a restaurant/bar<br />

and VIP room. Pricing is quite complex and depends on<br />

the time of day and day of the week, ranging from 20zł Monday<br />

mornings to 85zł Friday nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe<br />

rental included). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.<br />

Horse Riding<br />

Partynice Racecourse (Wrocławski Tor Wyścigów<br />

Konnych Partynice) ul. Zwycięska 2 (Krzyki), tel. (+48)<br />

71 339 83 64, www.wtwk-partynice.pl. Opened in 1907,<br />

this beautiful and historic horse racecourse hosts numerous<br />

competitions including hurdle-jumping, steeplechases and<br />

competence trials for the 160 racehorses trained there full-time.<br />

With several racetracks - including the unique grass flat track<br />

which ironically finishes uphill - and picturesque buildings dating<br />

mostly from the turn of the century, Partynice Racecourse and<br />

the surrounding parks make for a lovely outing and are a popular<br />

family picnic spot. 60 more recreation horses are on hand, as<br />

well as a year-round riding school, summer programs for children<br />

and year-round hippotherapeutic classes are available, as well<br />

as riding time with an instructor for 31-37zł. Located 7km south<br />

of Wrocław’s city centre. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />

Sleigh Rides<br />

If you’ve come from a country where the ‘Fun Police’ and<br />

litigation have soured a lot of the good time activities you<br />

remember as a child, suspend your disbelief and enjoy a<br />

traditional Polish sleigh ride by heading off into the snowy<br />

Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />

woods at night with a bottle of spirits and flaming torches.<br />

Combining Sleepy Hollow creepiness with winter wonderland<br />

romance, extreme sports excitement and campfire camaraderie,<br />

a typical ride involves a large horse-drawn sled<br />

with sleighbells jingling and flaming torches lighting the way<br />

through the beautiful snow-draped countryside, while people<br />

take turns clinging for dear life to a small sledge tied to the<br />

back. Most include a mid-journey forest bonfire with grilled<br />

sausages, tea or (in most cases) vodka. Great fun with the<br />

family or friends, the companies below offer such excursions<br />

for all ages from the season’s first snowfall.<br />

Arat Al. Jeździecka 1, Golędzinów, tel. (+48) 604 97<br />

21 85, www.kjarat.republika.pl. Located about 22km<br />

from Wrocław, Arat offers sleigh rides for individuals and<br />

groups. With a 1 hour ride priced at 200zł it is better suited<br />

to groups, though it is often possible to join up with others to<br />

form a group of up to 10 people. Alternatively hire the whole<br />

sleigh for yourself. Concludes with a bonfire, but you have to<br />

bring your own sausages. Available from the first snowfall,<br />

give them a call in advance for details.<br />

Malta ul. Piłsudskiego 21, Osolin, tel. (+48) 71 310<br />

62 36, www.osolin.pl. Located about 35km from Wrocław,<br />

the English speaking organisers here offer sleigh rides for<br />

groups and individual guests. A 1 hour ride costs 10zł per<br />

person or 15zł per person if you want to end your trip with<br />

a bonfire in a wooden hut (you need to bring your own food<br />

with you). Call in advance to negotiate details. Q Open from<br />

the season’s first snowfall.<br />

Spa & Beauty<br />

Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre<br />

A-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71<br />

342 44 92, www.tajskimasaz.pl.<br />

Authentic Thai massages: improve<br />

blood and limphatic circulation, release<br />

physical and mental tension,<br />

strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of<br />

joints and remove toxins. Performed solely by highly<br />

qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in<br />

Bangkok. The offer: classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,<br />

relaxing massage with essential oils, massage<br />

for the physically active, feet’n’legs reflexology, back &<br />

shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount<br />

when you present this coupon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />

Massages 100-300zł.<br />

Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej<br />

2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50,<br />

www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Descend beneath the<br />

grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the city’s premier<br />

spa and wellness centres including a gym, counter-current<br />

swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy<br />

steam bath and salt and iodine cave. Massages, face and body<br />

treatments are also available. Q Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness<br />

Centre 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.<br />

Swimming<br />

Municipal Swimming Pools B-4, ul. Teatralna 10-12,<br />

tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl. This gorgeous<br />

complex in the very centre of Wrocław housed the city municipal<br />

baths built between 1895-97. Over one hundred years later,<br />

today it maintains its function as a therapeutic swimming<br />

complex, and is one of Wrocław’s most important architectural<br />

monuments from the 19th century (included on the National<br />

wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />

LEISURE<br />

Registry of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside,<br />

the interior ornamentation of the four pool complex includes<br />

sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic<br />

tiles, polychromic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades and colonnades<br />

inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome. Currently<br />

serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services are also on<br />

hand (see Spa & Beauty) so if you plan on taking a dip or lying<br />

down for a massage in Wrocław, you’d be crazy not to do it here.<br />

Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the website<br />

regularly updates its posted reservation schedule, which you’d<br />

be wise to check before thonging down to the pool. QOpen<br />

06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 10-14zł.<br />

Wrocław Water Park (Wrocławski Park Wodny)<br />

F-6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.<br />

parkwodny.wroc.pl. Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water<br />

park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for<br />

a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history<br />

and high-minded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the<br />

only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip<br />

to Wrocław. While the main attractions are surely the indoor<br />

and outdoor recreational swimming pools with their water<br />

slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia slide<br />

involving lights and music to distract you as you plummet),<br />

wave machines, ‘wild river’ and other wonders, adults will<br />

appreciate the Wellness Day Spa with saunas, solaria,<br />

Jacuzzis, massage services and more. Also on hand is a<br />

fitness centre, restaurant, cafe, bar and shop, making a trip<br />

to the Water Park a full day’s outing, just south of the train<br />

station. From the city centre you can usually take trams 31,<br />

32, 15 or 8 and bus numbers 113 or 612. Q Open 09:00<br />

- 22:40. Fitness Centre, Wellness & Spa, saunas and sport<br />

pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact<br />

times. Admission 19/17zł, per hour; 35/30zł for a day pass.<br />

Max Berg<br />

Born in the coastal town of Szczecin (then known as Stettin) in<br />

1870, Max Berg went on to become one of the most eminent<br />

architects of his time, and nowhere will he be remembered<br />

more so than in Wrocław. He attended the Technische<br />

Hochschule Charlottenburg in Berlin where his development<br />

as a budding architect was nurtured first by Carl Schafer,<br />

and then by Franz Adickes. On graduation he worked as a<br />

building inspector in Frankfurt am Main, and in 1907 was<br />

commissioned to sketch a blueprint for the redevelopment<br />

of Berlin. These plans were never realized but that did not<br />

stop his progress. <strong>In</strong> 1909 he was appointed Wrocław’s (then<br />

Breslau) chief architect and set about designing his defining<br />

work – the domed Centennial Hall (I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1). Then<br />

known as the Jahrhunderthalle, the reinforced concrete dome<br />

became the largest building of its kind when it was finally<br />

unveiled in 1913, and in 2006 was awarded the status of a<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site. Berg was a keen proponent of<br />

the modernist style, and in particular uniform concrete structures.<br />

Living on ul. Kopernika 19 Berg set about changing the<br />

look of Wrocław, with structures including the hydroelectric<br />

power station on ul. Nowy Świat and the public baths (now a<br />

Pizza Hut) on ul. Marii Skłodowskiej Curie. His vision included<br />

maniacal plans to knock down the buildings ringing the Rynek,<br />

replacing them with concrete office blocks and a 20 storey<br />

tower. His designs prompted both praise and outrage in<br />

equal measure and many projects were canned after heated<br />

debate. Disillusioned with his perceived lack of support he<br />

opted for early retirement in 1925. A keen humanitarian he<br />

refused to join the Nazis and instead dedicated the rest of<br />

his life to the study of Christian mysticism, living out the rest<br />

of his days in the spa town of Baden Baden.<br />

September - December 2012<br />

81

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