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80 LEISURE<br />
Though skirt-watching and spirit-sipping in the city’s cafés<br />
and beer gardens is perhaps the most popular local leisure<br />
activity, our Leisure section is more designed to help you get<br />
out and make the most of a sunny day, or stay active during<br />
a dreary one. Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities,<br />
Wrocław offers plenty of recreation opportunities on top<br />
of its great architecture, nightlife and culture. With a scenic<br />
location on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city<br />
boasts kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as<br />
well as kayak rentals and river cruises. Locals flock to the<br />
Botanical and Japanese Gardens in spring time, and there<br />
are plenty of city-centre public parks to relax in from Ostrów<br />
Tumski to Partisan Hill (see Sightseeing). The historical<br />
Partynice Racecourse and amazing Adrenalina Park are<br />
outstanding day-outings, the Municipal Swimming Pools<br />
are a hidden gem and the Water Park is one of the best in<br />
the country. Football fans also have the chance to see one<br />
of Poland’s biggest clubs - Śląsk Wrocław - in a brand-new<br />
state-of-the-art stadium. Whatever your interest, be it golf or<br />
yoga, the area has something to offer you, so use the listings<br />
below to stay active in every season.<br />
Adrenaline Sports<br />
Active Poland G-4, ul. Kościuszki 25, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
82 10, www.activepoland.com. Active Poland organises<br />
group activities including go-karting, paintball, shooting, rafting,<br />
hovercraft rides, kayaking and naughtier evenings out for<br />
the boys. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun open on request.<br />
Kwatera Główna C-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48)<br />
531 63 80 00, www.kwateraglowna.pl. Organised laser<br />
tag in a specially designed maze arena for 2-10 person<br />
groups. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
40zł per person per hour.<br />
Le Mans ul. Czekoladowa 5-22 (Bielany Wrocławskie),<br />
tel. (+48) 600 24 38 56, www.lemans.net.pl. A 450m<br />
go-karting track with high speed corners available for individuals<br />
or groups. If you can prove that it is your birthday they<br />
will give you an 8 minute go for free. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
10 minutes 28zł, 22 mins 56zł, 35 mins 84zł, 65 mins 140zł.<br />
X-action E-3, ul. Łęczycka 20/8, tel. (+48) 502 02 25<br />
78, www.x-action.pl. The largest company in Lower Silesia<br />
organising adventure activities for groups and companies,<br />
including paintball, quads and off-road rallies in the dramatic<br />
and beautiful terrain south of Wrocław, often followed by<br />
campfire barbeques. <strong>In</strong> summer rafting, parachuting, hanggliding,<br />
climbing and ballooning are also available. Prices<br />
arranged by phone. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Bike Rental<br />
Few things are more lovely than cycling around Wrocław on<br />
a sunny day, as the plethora of long-legged loose-skirted<br />
citizens doing just that will attest. Full of bridges, canals and<br />
green riverfront, Wrocław didn’t just draw the nickname of<br />
‘Poland’s Venice’ out of a hat at the tourist bureau. This is<br />
one of Poland’s greenest cities with 180 kilometres of cycling<br />
paths to back it up. Having a bike is not only a great way to<br />
negate a night of hard living but also an ideal way to take in<br />
the city’s natural beauty and visit further out destinations like<br />
the lovely Szczytnicki Park (I-4/5) to the east and further<br />
south to Rackowiecki forest (I-6). Despite a recent action<br />
by the city to designate specific parking space for bicycles in<br />
front of many Wrocław venues, actually renting a bike is not<br />
nearly as easy as it should be, but hopefully our listings below<br />
will help. If looking to rent a children’s bike, give Czerwony<br />
Stoliczek (B-2, ul. Więzienna 6) a try.<br />
Cinnamon B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48)<br />
71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Cinnamon<br />
hostel is happy to rent you a bike when you leave your ID<br />
or 100zł as collateral. The cost is 8zł an hour, but you may<br />
as well just leave them 30zł and take it for the entire day.<br />
Bowling & Billiards<br />
NEW<br />
Bandaclub E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky<br />
Tower), tel. (+48) 71 798 08 55, www.bandaclub.pl. <strong>In</strong> a<br />
town that already has an unusually high number of pool halls,<br />
this new billiards complex on the second floor of Sky Tower<br />
puts them all to shame. Comprising 852m2 with 27 tables<br />
total - 23 for billiards, 4 for snooker, a bar and plenty of seating,<br />
tournaments are organised regularly and you can also<br />
take classes under the tutelage of current Polish snooker<br />
champ, Krzystof Wróbel. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Prices range<br />
from 18-25zł per hour for the table of your choice.<br />
Fuga Mundi C-5, Pl. Grunwaldzki 12-14, tel. (+48)<br />
787 31 68 58, www.fugamundi.pl. Offering professional<br />
billiards and snooker tables, table football and darts. There<br />
is also a game room for smokers and a bar. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Snooker tables cost 18zł per<br />
hour up to 16:00 and 24zł per hour after. Pool tables 14zł<br />
per hour up to 16:00 and 22zł per hour after.<br />
Sezam Prestiż B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 71 344<br />
85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. Just off the main square, this<br />
billiards bar covers 600m2 with 17 professional pool tables,<br />
one professional snooker table and plenty of beer and spirits.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. 10-25zł/h.<br />
NEW<br />
SkyBowling E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky<br />
Tower), tel. (+48) 71 712 83 33, www.skybowling.pl. Full of<br />
shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique colour changing<br />
ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-the-art bowling alley on the<br />
2nd floor of Sky Tower will host the 48th Bowling World Cup from<br />
November 24th - December 2nd. Find 24 lanes, plus a restaurant/bar<br />
and VIP room. Pricing is quite complex and depends on<br />
the time of day and day of the week, ranging from 20zł Monday<br />
mornings to 85zł Friday nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe<br />
rental included). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.<br />
Horse Riding<br />
Partynice Racecourse (Wrocławski Tor Wyścigów<br />
Konnych Partynice) ul. Zwycięska 2 (Krzyki), tel. (+48)<br />
71 339 83 64, www.wtwk-partynice.pl. Opened in 1907,<br />
this beautiful and historic horse racecourse hosts numerous<br />
competitions including hurdle-jumping, steeplechases and<br />
competence trials for the 160 racehorses trained there full-time.<br />
With several racetracks - including the unique grass flat track<br />
which ironically finishes uphill - and picturesque buildings dating<br />
mostly from the turn of the century, Partynice Racecourse and<br />
the surrounding parks make for a lovely outing and are a popular<br />
family picnic spot. 60 more recreation horses are on hand, as<br />
well as a year-round riding school, summer programs for children<br />
and year-round hippotherapeutic classes are available, as well<br />
as riding time with an instructor for 31-37zł. Located 7km south<br />
of Wrocław’s city centre. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Sleigh Rides<br />
If you’ve come from a country where the ‘Fun Police’ and<br />
litigation have soured a lot of the good time activities you<br />
remember as a child, suspend your disbelief and enjoy a<br />
traditional Polish sleigh ride by heading off into the snowy<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
woods at night with a bottle of spirits and flaming torches.<br />
Combining Sleepy Hollow creepiness with winter wonderland<br />
romance, extreme sports excitement and campfire camaraderie,<br />
a typical ride involves a large horse-drawn sled<br />
with sleighbells jingling and flaming torches lighting the way<br />
through the beautiful snow-draped countryside, while people<br />
take turns clinging for dear life to a small sledge tied to the<br />
back. Most include a mid-journey forest bonfire with grilled<br />
sausages, tea or (in most cases) vodka. Great fun with the<br />
family or friends, the companies below offer such excursions<br />
for all ages from the season’s first snowfall.<br />
Arat Al. Jeździecka 1, Golędzinów, tel. (+48) 604 97<br />
21 85, www.kjarat.republika.pl. Located about 22km<br />
from Wrocław, Arat offers sleigh rides for individuals and<br />
groups. With a 1 hour ride priced at 200zł it is better suited<br />
to groups, though it is often possible to join up with others to<br />
form a group of up to 10 people. Alternatively hire the whole<br />
sleigh for yourself. Concludes with a bonfire, but you have to<br />
bring your own sausages. Available from the first snowfall,<br />
give them a call in advance for details.<br />
Malta ul. Piłsudskiego 21, Osolin, tel. (+48) 71 310<br />
62 36, www.osolin.pl. Located about 35km from Wrocław,<br />
the English speaking organisers here offer sleigh rides for<br />
groups and individual guests. A 1 hour ride costs 10zł per<br />
person or 15zł per person if you want to end your trip with<br />
a bonfire in a wooden hut (you need to bring your own food<br />
with you). Call in advance to negotiate details. Q Open from<br />
the season’s first snowfall.<br />
Spa & Beauty<br />
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre<br />
A-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71<br />
342 44 92, www.tajskimasaz.pl.<br />
Authentic Thai massages: improve<br />
blood and limphatic circulation, release<br />
physical and mental tension,<br />
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of<br />
joints and remove toxins. Performed solely by highly<br />
qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in<br />
Bangkok. The offer: classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,<br />
relaxing massage with essential oils, massage<br />
for the physically active, feet’n’legs reflexology, back &<br />
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount<br />
when you present this coupon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
Massages 100-300zł.<br />
Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej<br />
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50,<br />
www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Descend beneath the<br />
grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the city’s premier<br />
spa and wellness centres including a gym, counter-current<br />
swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy<br />
steam bath and salt and iodine cave. Massages, face and body<br />
treatments are also available. Q Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness<br />
Centre 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Swimming<br />
Municipal Swimming Pools B-4, ul. Teatralna 10-12,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl. This gorgeous<br />
complex in the very centre of Wrocław housed the city municipal<br />
baths built between 1895-97. Over one hundred years later,<br />
today it maintains its function as a therapeutic swimming<br />
complex, and is one of Wrocław’s most important architectural<br />
monuments from the 19th century (included on the National<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
LEISURE<br />
Registry of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside,<br />
the interior ornamentation of the four pool complex includes<br />
sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic<br />
tiles, polychromic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades and colonnades<br />
inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome. Currently<br />
serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services are also on<br />
hand (see Spa & Beauty) so if you plan on taking a dip or lying<br />
down for a massage in Wrocław, you’d be crazy not to do it here.<br />
Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the website<br />
regularly updates its posted reservation schedule, which you’d<br />
be wise to check before thonging down to the pool. QOpen<br />
06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 10-14zł.<br />
Wrocław Water Park (Wrocławski Park Wodny)<br />
F-6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.<br />
parkwodny.wroc.pl. Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water<br />
park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for<br />
a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history<br />
and high-minded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the<br />
only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip<br />
to Wrocław. While the main attractions are surely the indoor<br />
and outdoor recreational swimming pools with their water<br />
slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia slide<br />
involving lights and music to distract you as you plummet),<br />
wave machines, ‘wild river’ and other wonders, adults will<br />
appreciate the Wellness Day Spa with saunas, solaria,<br />
Jacuzzis, massage services and more. Also on hand is a<br />
fitness centre, restaurant, cafe, bar and shop, making a trip<br />
to the Water Park a full day’s outing, just south of the train<br />
station. From the city centre you can usually take trams 31,<br />
32, 15 or 8 and bus numbers 113 or 612. Q Open 09:00<br />
- 22:40. Fitness Centre, Wellness & Spa, saunas and sport<br />
pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact<br />
times. Admission 19/17zł, per hour; 35/30zł for a day pass.<br />
Max Berg<br />
Born in the coastal town of Szczecin (then known as Stettin) in<br />
1870, Max Berg went on to become one of the most eminent<br />
architects of his time, and nowhere will he be remembered<br />
more so than in Wrocław. He attended the Technische<br />
Hochschule Charlottenburg in Berlin where his development<br />
as a budding architect was nurtured first by Carl Schafer,<br />
and then by Franz Adickes. On graduation he worked as a<br />
building inspector in Frankfurt am Main, and in 1907 was<br />
commissioned to sketch a blueprint for the redevelopment<br />
of Berlin. These plans were never realized but that did not<br />
stop his progress. <strong>In</strong> 1909 he was appointed Wrocław’s (then<br />
Breslau) chief architect and set about designing his defining<br />
work – the domed Centennial Hall (I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1). Then<br />
known as the Jahrhunderthalle, the reinforced concrete dome<br />
became the largest building of its kind when it was finally<br />
unveiled in 1913, and in 2006 was awarded the status of a<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Berg was a keen proponent of<br />
the modernist style, and in particular uniform concrete structures.<br />
Living on ul. Kopernika 19 Berg set about changing the<br />
look of Wrocław, with structures including the hydroelectric<br />
power station on ul. Nowy Świat and the public baths (now a<br />
Pizza Hut) on ul. Marii Skłodowskiej Curie. His vision included<br />
maniacal plans to knock down the buildings ringing the Rynek,<br />
replacing them with concrete office blocks and a 20 storey<br />
tower. His designs prompted both praise and outrage in<br />
equal measure and many projects were canned after heated<br />
debate. Disillusioned with his perceived lack of support he<br />
opted for early retirement in 1925. A keen humanitarian he<br />
refused to join the Nazis and instead dedicated the rest of<br />
his life to the study of Christian mysticism, living out the rest<br />
of his days in the spa town of Baden Baden.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
81