WROCŁAW - In Your Pocket

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ESSENTIAL WROCŁAW
Wrocław Old Town
There’s no shortage of things to see and do in Wrocław, and
our tried and true, preferred method of discovering them is
eighty percent aimless wandering around. If there’s room
for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find
no more rewarding experience than meandering around the
Old Town. Those looking for a little more guidance, however,
would do well to take into account our picks and tips to ensure
they miss nothing of importance during their stay.
The first port of call in Wrocław, and that which the entire
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek (A/B-
3). This is not only the city’s municipal centre, but also the
social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a place of happenings,
concerts and performance art, lined with terraced cafes and
restaurants. Note that while the Rynek was originally built
in the 13th century, much of what you see today is in fact a
façade, quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in
World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s.
Though strict attention was given to original details, particularly
those of the frontage, much of what lies behind them
experienced understandable updating (though a medieval
cellar never stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly squareshouldered
in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a
miraculous survivor from the 13th century and the city’s
defining landmark. After exploring the three passageways
packed with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall
you should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3), known
Town Hall (Ratusz)
as the Flower Market and always a bright sight thanks to
the scores of flower sellers who are on call here twenty-four
hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, ready
to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos - such is
the importance of flower-giving in Polish society.
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. Elizabeth’s
Church (A-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety), the city’s tallest. Stunning views
of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that the climb
can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a stairmaster for
some time. Head next to the stunning University (B-2, Plac
Uniwersytecki), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush
for grotty students; don’t miss the university church (yes, even
the university has a church), Aula Leopoldina - the grand
Baroque ceremonial hall, or the panoramic city views from the
Mathematical Tower. Before heading over to Ostrów Tumski,
pop into Wrocław’s proper marketplace Hala Targowa (C-2, on
the corner of Piaskowa and Św. Ducha). Here you can pick-up
fresh produce and sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy
bargain bric-a-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping
needs you have while getting a colourful look at locals living
their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap pierogi
(what, your radar’s not going off?)
Crossing the river now, Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2) is packed with
religious sights and historic significance. First settled in the
8th century with the first bishopric in 1000, this was originally
the centre of Wrocław before 1240 when the Tartars razed
the place and the city began redeveloping on the other side
of the river where, quite frankly, there was more room. After
that Ostrów Tumski became an exclusively royal and religious
sanctuary, a role which it has almost inconceivably maintained
to this day. Largely devoid of shops, cafes and bars, etc, Ostrów
Tumski has an ethereal feel that takes you miles away from
the pace of life found throughout the rest of the city. Ideal for
a romantic stroll, here you’ll find cobbled lanes, original gas
lamps and lots of riverside greenery. Oh, and the churches:
top of your list should be Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
(D-2, Pl. Katedralny), famous for its stunning stained glass
windows and for its 16th century altarpiece. To the right of
the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, now
the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives elsewhere
these days). Not to be missed either is the Church of the Holy
Cross, a rare two-level church with two separate parishes. For
those looking for a sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on
crosses, head north to the city’s Botanical Gardens - one
of the finest, most picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places
for spending time in Wrocław.
Back over the river, locals will not forgive you for missing out
on the Racławice Panorama (C-3), especially after all the
trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A 140m-long
canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and short-lived)
victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of the only
remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a genre that
was actually quite popular in the 19th century. Of the city’s
museums we would class the restored Royal Palace (A-3,
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35) as the most essential, with the
National Museum (D-3, pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5) also
more than worthy of a rainy day.
With the additions of the dazzling Wrocław Fountain (or ice
rink from November to April) and the Discovery Centre, a
tram ride west of the centre to the Centennial Hall exhibition
and park complex (I-4) is now also a required ramble. In
addition to the UNESCO-listed Hala and Iglica monument,
here you’ll also find the Zoo and Japanese Garden in Szczytnicki
Park. But the real gems are the Discovery Centre
exhibit and the city’s new multimedia fountain which during
short-sleeve season puts on an incredible display of water,
light and sound every hour, on the hour (from May to the end
of October). Finally, no visitor should leave Wrocław without
having hunted down a few of the city’s infamous and elusive
gnomes. Enjoy Wrocław.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Churches
St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół św. Wojciecha)
C-3, Pl. Dominikański 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 31, www.
wroclaw.dominikanie.pl. This heavy, imposing church on Plac
Dominikański is the oldest church on the left bank of the Odra River.
It was founded in 1112 for the Augustinians and later handed over
to the Dominicans. It was destroyed in the 1241 Tartar invasion and
then again in the 1945 siege of Wrocław. Q Open 05:45 - 20:00,
Sun 07:00 - 21:30. No visiting during mass please.
St. Elizabeth’s Church (Kościół Św. Elżbiety) A-3, ul.
Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.kosciolgarnizon.wroclaw.pl.
Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and
the tallest buildings in Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable.
A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the
current Gothic structure dates to the 14th and 15th centuries. This
is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529
by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then was the
victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a
military garrison church. Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic and
Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of prominent citizens.
The 91m tower (the original tower was 128m) is open to ablebodied
visitors until the end of September (and after by request
only, depending on the weather). We lost count after about 200
steps, mostly due to the lack of oxygen in the narrow, twisting
stairwell, though one reader has written to assure that the tower
has 300 steps in all. The view from the top is more than worth the
arduous journey and 5zł. Open daily, visitors should ask to be let
in at the vestry. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. No
visiting during mass please.
St. Mary Magdalene’s Church (Kościół Św. Marii
Magdaleny) B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 609 42
84 23. This massive church was the second to be built on
the left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During
the Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and
was not returned to the Catholic church until after WWII. It’s
most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque
portal that was moved here from the Benedictine abbey -
considered to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that
era - and the ‘Penitants’ Bridge’ spanning the two soaring,
yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced after
WW2. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. No visting during mass please.
University Church of the
Blessed Name of Jesus
(Kościół Najświętszego
Imienia Jezus) B-2, Pl.
Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48)
71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.
pl. This Late Baroque church
has been ranked among the
most beautiful in Central Europe.
It’s certainly the most
impressive in Wrocław. The
Jesuits built the church as
part of the university complex
in the late 17th century on the
site of the Piast castle. Part of the castle structure can still
be seen in the northern sacristy, the alcove at the far end of
the church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is
very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original.
Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18thcentury
depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia
and Europe. Visitors are given an audioguide which is available
in seven different languages. Donations suggested, but not
required. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00; note that church is frequently
closed to visitors on weekends during wedding ceremonies.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
SIGHTSEEING
Guided Tours
Na Solnym A-3, Pl. Solny 20, tel. (+48) 71 799 90
01, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com. On top of tourist
info and souvenirs, Na Solnym offers guided walking
tours of Wrocław, with a special theme if requested.
Excursions to interesting destinations outside Wrocław
and throughout all of Poland are also an option. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
PTTK B-3, Rynek - Ratusz 11/12, tel. (+48) 71
343 83 31, www.pttk.wroclaw.pl. Tours of Wrocław,
Lower Silesia, Auschwitz, Wieliczka and more (even beyond
Poland’s borders, in Berlin, Prague and Dresden), specialising
in group bus tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Reserve one week in advance. Tours in English 480zł.
Wratislavia Tour, tel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www.
wratislaviatour.com. Guided walking tours of all the
main sights of the Old Town, or see even more of the
city by being chauffeured around it in an electronic car.
Tours around Silesia and to Kraków and Auschwitz also
available as well as airport transfers. Q Reserve in
advance. Tours in English, 300zł.
Wrocław City Tours, tel. (+48) 513 946 946, www.
wroclawcitytour.pl. Look no further. With over 30 different
tours of Wrocław and Silesia available, these folks
can arrange carriage rides, golf cart tours, river cruises,
whatever you want. Tours available in English, German and
Polish starting at 259zł. Call one day in advance.
Wrocław Sightseeing Tours ul. Wita Stwosza 3,
tel. (+48) 698 90 01 23, www.wroclawsightseeingtours.com.
Offering a range of thematic tours in English,
German and Spanish covering Wrocław’s city centre,
Lower Silesia, Secrets of WWII, Bolesławiec, Auschwitz,
Kraków, Wieliczka, Poznań, Częstochowa and more. They
also now offer what we think is the first Great Escape
Tour to the legendary POW camp at Żagań. You can also
pick up their mp3 Wrocław walking tour by visiting their
office. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Wrocław - Silesia Tours, tel. (+48) 509 96 00 34,
www.wroclawsilesiatours.pl. Demonstrating Wrocław’s
diversity with themed tours that trace the city’s different cultures
and religions, Wroclaw Silesia Tours offer tours around
the city in golf cars as well as on bikes (Wroclaw City Bike
Tour). They can also take you to places a bit further afield
such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia Góra or Auschwitz. Tours
available in English, German, Spanish and Portuguese. Call
one day in advance to negotiate prices.
Tourist Information
Lower Silesian Cultural Information Centre
A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
www.dcik.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Information A-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71
344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Brochures, maps,
events and advice. There’s also a second point at ul.
Sukiennice 12 (A-3, open 10:00-18:00) offering all the
above as well as internet access and ticket purchase
for cultural events. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Note that
opening hours may be shortened in the winter.
September - December 2012
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