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62<br />
ESSENTIAL WROCŁAW<br />
Wrocław Old Town<br />
There’s no shortage of things to see and do in Wrocław, and<br />
our tried and true, preferred method of discovering them is<br />
eighty percent aimless wandering around. If there’s room<br />
for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find<br />
no more rewarding experience than meandering around the<br />
Old Town. Those looking for a little more guidance, however,<br />
would do well to take into account our picks and tips to ensure<br />
they miss nothing of importance during their stay.<br />
The first port of call in Wrocław, and that which the entire<br />
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek (A/B-<br />
3). This is not only the city’s municipal centre, but also the<br />
social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a place of happenings,<br />
concerts and performance art, lined with terraced cafes and<br />
restaurants. Note that while the Rynek was originally built<br />
in the 13th century, much of what you see today is in fact a<br />
façade, quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in<br />
World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s.<br />
Though strict attention was given to original details, particularly<br />
those of the frontage, much of what lies behind them<br />
experienced understandable updating (though a medieval<br />
cellar never stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly squareshouldered<br />
in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a<br />
miraculous survivor from the 13th century and the city’s<br />
defining landmark. After exploring the three passageways<br />
packed with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall<br />
you should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3), known<br />
Town Hall (Ratusz)<br />
as the Flower Market and always a bright sight thanks to<br />
the scores of flower sellers who are on call here twenty-four<br />
hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, ready<br />
to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos - such is<br />
the importance of flower-giving in Polish society.<br />
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. Elizabeth’s<br />
Church (A-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety), the city’s tallest. Stunning views<br />
of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that the climb<br />
can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a stairmaster for<br />
some time. Head next to the stunning University (B-2, Plac<br />
Uniwersytecki), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush<br />
for grotty students; don’t miss the university church (yes, even<br />
the university has a church), Aula Leopoldina - the grand<br />
Baroque ceremonial hall, or the panoramic city views from the<br />
Mathematical Tower. Before heading over to Ostrów Tumski,<br />
pop into Wrocław’s proper marketplace Hala Targowa (C-2, on<br />
the corner of Piaskowa and Św. Ducha). Here you can pick-up<br />
fresh produce and sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy<br />
bargain bric-a-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping<br />
needs you have while getting a colourful look at locals living<br />
their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap pierogi<br />
(what, your radar’s not going off?)<br />
Crossing the river now, Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2) is packed with<br />
religious sights and historic significance. First settled in the<br />
8th century with the first bishopric in 1000, this was originally<br />
the centre of Wrocław before 1240 when the Tartars razed<br />
the place and the city began redeveloping on the other side<br />
of the river where, quite frankly, there was more room. After<br />
that Ostrów Tumski became an exclusively royal and religious<br />
sanctuary, a role which it has almost inconceivably maintained<br />
to this day. Largely devoid of shops, cafes and bars, etc, Ostrów<br />
Tumski has an ethereal feel that takes you miles away from<br />
the pace of life found throughout the rest of the city. Ideal for<br />
a romantic stroll, here you’ll find cobbled lanes, original gas<br />
lamps and lots of riverside greenery. Oh, and the churches:<br />
top of your list should be Cathedral of St. John the Baptist<br />
(D-2, Pl. Katedralny), famous for its stunning stained glass<br />
windows and for its 16th century altarpiece. To the right of<br />
the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, now<br />
the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives elsewhere<br />
these days). Not to be missed either is the Church of the Holy<br />
Cross, a rare two-level church with two separate parishes. For<br />
those looking for a sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on<br />
crosses, head north to the city’s Botanical Gardens - one<br />
of the finest, most picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places<br />
for spending time in Wrocław.<br />
Back over the river, locals will not forgive you for missing out<br />
on the Racławice Panorama (C-3), especially after all the<br />
trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A 140m-long<br />
canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and short-lived)<br />
victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of the only<br />
remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a genre that<br />
was actually quite popular in the 19th century. Of the city’s<br />
museums we would class the restored Royal Palace (A-3,<br />
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35) as the most essential, with the<br />
National Museum (D-3, pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5) also<br />
more than worthy of a rainy day.<br />
With the additions of the dazzling Wrocław Fountain (or ice<br />
rink from November to April) and the Discovery Centre, a<br />
tram ride west of the centre to the Centennial Hall exhibition<br />
and park complex (I-4) is now also a required ramble. <strong>In</strong><br />
addition to the UNESCO-listed Hala and Iglica monument,<br />
here you’ll also find the Zoo and Japanese Garden in Szczytnicki<br />
Park. But the real gems are the Discovery Centre<br />
exhibit and the city’s new multimedia fountain which during<br />
short-sleeve season puts on an incredible display of water,<br />
light and sound every hour, on the hour (from May to the end<br />
of October). Finally, no visitor should leave Wrocław without<br />
having hunted down a few of the city’s infamous and elusive<br />
gnomes. Enjoy Wrocław.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Churches<br />
St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół św. Wojciecha)<br />
C-3, Pl. Dominikański 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 31, www.<br />
wroclaw.dominikanie.pl. This heavy, imposing church on Plac<br />
Dominikański is the oldest church on the left bank of the Odra River.<br />
It was founded in 1112 for the Augustinians and later handed over<br />
to the Dominicans. It was destroyed in the 1241 Tartar invasion and<br />
then again in the 1945 siege of Wrocław. Q Open 05:45 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 07:00 - 21:30. No visiting during mass please.<br />
St. Elizabeth’s Church (Kościół Św. Elżbiety) A-3, ul.<br />
Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.kosciolgarnizon.wroclaw.pl.<br />
Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and<br />
the tallest buildings in Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable.<br />
A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the<br />
current Gothic structure dates to the 14th and 15th centuries. This<br />
is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529<br />
by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then was the<br />
victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a<br />
military garrison church. <strong>In</strong>side you’ll find impressive Gothic and<br />
Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of prominent citizens.<br />
The 91m tower (the original tower was 128m) is open to ablebodied<br />
visitors until the end of September (and after by request<br />
only, depending on the weather). We lost count after about 200<br />
steps, mostly due to the lack of oxygen in the narrow, twisting<br />
stairwell, though one reader has written to assure that the tower<br />
has 300 steps in all. The view from the top is more than worth the<br />
arduous journey and 5zł. Open daily, visitors should ask to be let<br />
in at the vestry. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. No<br />
visiting during mass please.<br />
St. Mary Magdalene’s Church (Kościół Św. Marii<br />
Magdaleny) B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 609 42<br />
84 23. This massive church was the second to be built on<br />
the left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During<br />
the Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and<br />
was not returned to the Catholic church until after WWII. It’s<br />
most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque<br />
portal that was moved here from the Benedictine abbey -<br />
considered to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that<br />
era - and the ‘Penitants’ Bridge’ spanning the two soaring,<br />
yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced after<br />
WW2. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. No visting during mass please.<br />
University Church of the<br />
Blessed Name of Jesus<br />
(Kościół Najświętszego<br />
Imienia Jezus) B-2, Pl.<br />
Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48)<br />
71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.<br />
pl. This Late Baroque church<br />
has been ranked among the<br />
most beautiful in Central Europe.<br />
It’s certainly the most<br />
impressive in Wrocław. The<br />
Jesuits built the church as<br />
part of the university complex<br />
in the late 17th century on the<br />
site of the Piast castle. Part of the castle structure can still<br />
be seen in the northern sacristy, the alcove at the far end of<br />
the church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is<br />
very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original.<br />
Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18thcentury<br />
depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia<br />
and Europe. Visitors are given an audioguide which is available<br />
in seven different languages. Donations suggested, but not<br />
required. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00; note that church is frequently<br />
closed to visitors on weekends during wedding ceremonies.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
SIGHTSEEING<br />
Guided Tours<br />
Na Solnym A-3, Pl. Solny 20, tel. (+48) 71 799 90<br />
01, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com. On top of tourist<br />
info and souvenirs, Na Solnym offers guided walking<br />
tours of Wrocław, with a special theme if requested.<br />
Excursions to interesting destinations outside Wrocław<br />
and throughout all of Poland are also an option. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
PTTK B-3, Rynek - Ratusz 11/12, tel. (+48) 71<br />
343 83 31, www.pttk.wroclaw.pl. Tours of Wrocław,<br />
Lower Silesia, Auschwitz, Wieliczka and more (even beyond<br />
Poland’s borders, in Berlin, Prague and Dresden), specialising<br />
in group bus tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. Reserve one week in advance. Tours in English 480zł.<br />
Wratislavia Tour, tel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www.<br />
wratislaviatour.com. Guided walking tours of all the<br />
main sights of the Old Town, or see even more of the<br />
city by being chauffeured around it in an electronic car.<br />
Tours around Silesia and to Kraków and Auschwitz also<br />
available as well as airport transfers. Q Reserve in<br />
advance. Tours in English, 300zł.<br />
Wrocław City Tours, tel. (+48) 513 946 946, www.<br />
wroclawcitytour.pl. Look no further. With over 30 different<br />
tours of Wrocław and Silesia available, these folks<br />
can arrange carriage rides, golf cart tours, river cruises,<br />
whatever you want. Tours available in English, German and<br />
Polish starting at 259zł. Call one day in advance.<br />
Wrocław Sightseeing Tours ul. Wita Stwosza 3,<br />
tel. (+48) 698 90 01 23, www.wroclawsightseeingtours.com.<br />
Offering a range of thematic tours in English,<br />
German and Spanish covering Wrocław’s city centre,<br />
Lower Silesia, Secrets of WWII, Bolesławiec, Auschwitz,<br />
Kraków, Wieliczka, Poznań, Częstochowa and more. They<br />
also now offer what we think is the first Great Escape<br />
Tour to the legendary POW camp at Żagań. You can also<br />
pick up their mp3 Wrocław walking tour by visiting their<br />
office. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Wrocław - Silesia Tours, tel. (+48) 509 96 00 34,<br />
www.wroclawsilesiatours.pl. Demonstrating Wrocław’s<br />
diversity with themed tours that trace the city’s different cultures<br />
and religions, Wroclaw Silesia Tours offer tours around<br />
the city in golf cars as well as on bikes (Wroclaw City Bike<br />
Tour). They can also take you to places a bit further afield<br />
such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia Góra or Auschwitz. Tours<br />
available in English, German, Spanish and Portuguese. Call<br />
one day in advance to negotiate prices.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation<br />
Lower Silesian Cultural <strong>In</strong>formation Centre<br />
A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,<br />
www.dcik.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation A-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Brochures, maps,<br />
events and advice. There’s also a second point at ul.<br />
Sukiennice 12 (A-3, open 10:00-18:00) offering all the<br />
above as well as internet access and ticket purchase<br />
for cultural events. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Note that<br />
opening hours may be shortened in the winter.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
63