WROCŁAW - In Your Pocket

48 RESTAURANTS
Piwnica Świdnicka A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48)
71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Seems
things have gone downhill a bit since this place was opened
over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar in Europe.
Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer brewed in the
basement back in those days, today it serves primarily as
an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town
Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average
overpriced traditional food served by uncaring staff. Nonetheless
an Old Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very
least. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-75zł). PTAGBSW
Pod Fredrą A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13
35, www.podfredra.pl. A perfect introduction to traditional
Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval
Town Hall, Pod Fredro ably covers the spectrum of Polish
classics and even boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The
music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance
of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve
you in at least three languages (Polish, German or English).
The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and
international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes
being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggybag
whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). PTA6EBXSW
Pod Gryfami A-3, Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 89
ext.13, www.podgryfami.pl. The ground floor cafe of this
14th century townhouse has recently been extended with a
glass patio that even features a fireplace in winter, allowing
the artsy, academic clientele to continue their cloudy, wine
teeth conversations year-round. Should your stomach compel
you towards their well-regarded restaurant, you’ll descend
two disorienting levels below ground to an awkward labyrinthe
of ancient, sprawling cellars. Unfortunately the ambi-
ence of this fascinating space is a bit put off by an abundance
of random art on the walls and cheesy jazz and r’n’b music.
The food, however, is nothing to poke at, with pork, duck,
lamb and veal dominating the menu. The arrival of our entree
beneath a silver serving canopy only seemed silly until we
tasted it: the chef should take a bow. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (35-66zł). PTJA6IBXSW
Quchnia Polska A-3, Rynek 20-21, tel. (+48) 71 343
56 17, www.quchniapolska.pl. Obviously up market when
you enter, this place aims to combine innovative international
cuisine with classic Polish ingredients and additions. A cosy
interior with warm colours should be the law in Poland
with those biting winters - this place fits the bill perfectly.
Attractively restored features of the old building, including
(almost) flawless coving. It was a first for us, but the dish of
another diner in the restaurant looked so good that we just
had to have the same; the chicken with mushroom sauce is
excellent alongside cooked spinach and pan fried potatoes.
Flawless food for sure. Located on the main square, with
fittingly exceptional views. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:30. (21-69zł). PTAGBSW
Restauracja Monopol A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.
The return of this historical
building and its restaurant to Wrocław’s culinary scene is
surely something to be celebrated, particularly under the
savvy stewardship of Likus. Known under communism as the
most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, with queues stretching
outside the revolving doors and teams of bellboys shooing
away anyone not wearing a tie, menus and tableware would
frequently disappear into the pockets of souvenir hunters and
the restaurant’s reputation as a masterpiece was common
knowledge. Today that excellency is back in place with master
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes,
and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A
modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go. Q Open
07:00 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (44-64zł). PTAUGW
Spanish
Taverna Espaniola A-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71
344 65 62, www.taverna-espanola.com.pl. Six types of
paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish in abundance,
a superb veggie selection and a coveted location (including
terrific Rynek-side seating in season) all ensure that this
Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy patrons. Inside you
will find a vaulted room full of gloomy corners and a scary
mannequin dressed like a matador. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). JAGBS
Vegetarian
Green Way F-4, ul. Kuźnicza 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 341
90 98, www.greenway.pl. A canteen-style affair offering
decent fare to the health-conscious diner. Bites on show
include aubergine lasagne, enchiladas, vegetables in curry
sauce and pasta, and it’s very much hard to find fault with
anything. A bit lacking in atmosphere, this is a budget hero
and recognized as such by the students, eco-warriors and
modern mums who gather here. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. (10-17zł). PTAUGBSW
NEW
Machina Organika ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 534 08 83
60, www.machinaorganika.pl. Beyond simply vegetarian,
this exciting organic vegan eatery/cafe across from Pasaż
Niepolda offers very creative cuisine and a different menu every
day. For example, when we dropped in it was ‘avo-mango-carrot
soup with tomatoes, thyme and sunflower seeds’ (how can you
resist giving that a try?). In addition to the original vegan entrees,
salads and desserts, the drinks list goes beyond great coffee
and unpasteurised local beers to include a range of enticing
creations like avocado cocoa with almond milk, mango lassis
and watermelon tonics. Set over three levels (the downstairs
of which is decidely more loungey), Machina Organika also
features a lovely interior with timber ceilings, a long L-shaped
bar, wire light fixtures, plenty of potted plants and colourful tiles
work that almost gives it a bit of a hacienda feel. Between this
place and Złe Mięso we could happily never eat meat again.
Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. (20zł). A6UGSW
Vega B-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34,
www.vega-wroclaw.com.pl. Possibly the most modest place
you can eat on Wrocław’s market square, Vega offers little in
terms of atmosphere, with the decor of this canteen coming
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
courtesy of potted plants and adverts for kung-fu classes. Set
out over two floors, the upper of which is strictly vegan, the food
is cheap and good and consists primarily of meatless variations
on Polish food, ie. meatless cutlets, potato pancakes, majo
salads and more. Not the most creative grub you’ve had, but
how many vegan restaurants have you seen in PL, let alone on
the main square? Note that the vegan part has different opening
hours: 12:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (6-16zł). PTJA6GBSW
Złe Mięso (Evil Meat) B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel.
(+48) 71 794 85 40, www.zlemieso.pl. Say hello to Złe
Mięso: arguably Wrocław’s best vegetarian restaurant and the
adopted home of the city’s large alternative activist community
(and all their multi-tatted and pierced friends). Be greeted by a
friendly dog before choosing from the large menu of daily specials,
curries, casseroles, veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and
- something we’ve never seen before in PL - delicious seitan. Not
super cheap, but super good for you and the portions are huge.
The artsy industrial interior featuring graphic graffiti art, glasstopped
tables made from plywood and pallets, milk crate light
fixtures and electro music more befitting a nightclub also doubles
as a hip place to hang and drink local beer. Go veg out. QOpen
12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (12-19zł). P6GBSW
Have Your Say
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed
in this guide, or the dozens more that we list on our
website, let the millions of visitors to our website,
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every
venue online has a function for comments be they critical,
complimentary or comical, so spill it!
Kuchnia Marche (see Quick Eats)
Great idea for a restuarant, especially if you’re not sure what
to order, and you’re perhaps not wishing for a large meal.
When you just pay for what you wish for- everyone wins! Remember
though to keep the card with you at all times. If only
the owners could be persuaded to open a branch where I live!
Phil from Norwich, United Kingdom
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar (see Bars)
Hi there I visited Wroclaw few weeks ago and had this
pleasure to find Fika Cafe. I can honestly recomend this
place. It’s not expensive comparing to other places at the
market square ;they serve really good tasty coffee and I love
their smoothies. The size is unbelievable! The service was
good and in the evening when we came back there was a
party with a DJ performing in the window. Very nice place!
Anna from London, UK
September - December 2012
49