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48 RESTAURANTS<br />
Piwnica Świdnicka A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48)<br />
71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Seems<br />
things have gone downhill a bit since this place was opened<br />
over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar in Europe.<br />
Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer brewed in the<br />
basement back in those days, today it serves primarily as<br />
an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town<br />
Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average<br />
overpriced traditional food served by uncaring staff. Nonetheless<br />
an Old Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very<br />
least. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-75zł). PTAGBSW<br />
Pod Fredrą A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13<br />
35, www.podfredra.pl. A perfect introduction to traditional<br />
Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval<br />
Town Hall, Pod Fredro ably covers the spectrum of Polish<br />
classics and even boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The<br />
music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance<br />
of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve<br />
you in at least three languages (Polish, German or English).<br />
The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and<br />
international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes<br />
being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggybag<br />
whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). PTA6EBXSW<br />
Pod Gryfami A-3, Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 89<br />
ext.13, www.podgryfami.pl. The ground floor cafe of this<br />
14th century townhouse has recently been extended with a<br />
glass patio that even features a fireplace in winter, allowing<br />
the artsy, academic clientele to continue their cloudy, wine<br />
teeth conversations year-round. Should your stomach compel<br />
you towards their well-regarded restaurant, you’ll descend<br />
two disorienting levels below ground to an awkward labyrinthe<br />
of ancient, sprawling cellars. Unfortunately the ambi-<br />
ence of this fascinating space is a bit put off by an abundance<br />
of random art on the walls and cheesy jazz and r’n’b music.<br />
The food, however, is nothing to poke at, with pork, duck,<br />
lamb and veal dominating the menu. The arrival of our entree<br />
beneath a silver serving canopy only seemed silly until we<br />
tasted it: the chef should take a bow. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (35-66zł). PTJA6IBXSW<br />
Quchnia Polska A-3, Rynek 20-21, tel. (+48) 71 343<br />
56 17, www.quchniapolska.pl. Obviously up market when<br />
you enter, this place aims to combine innovative international<br />
cuisine with classic Polish ingredients and additions. A cosy<br />
interior with warm colours should be the law in Poland<br />
with those biting winters - this place fits the bill perfectly.<br />
Attractively restored features of the old building, including<br />
(almost) flawless coving. It was a first for us, but the dish of<br />
another diner in the restaurant looked so good that we just<br />
had to have the same; the chicken with mushroom sauce is<br />
excellent alongside cooked spinach and pan fried potatoes.<br />
Flawless food for sure. Located on the main square, with<br />
fittingly exceptional views. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 23:30. (21-69zł). PTAGBSW<br />
Restauracja Monopol A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej<br />
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.<br />
The return of this historical<br />
building and its restaurant to Wrocław’s culinary scene is<br />
surely something to be celebrated, particularly under the<br />
savvy stewardship of Likus. Known under communism as the<br />
most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, with queues stretching<br />
outside the revolving doors and teams of bellboys shooing<br />
away anyone not wearing a tie, menus and tableware would<br />
frequently disappear into the pockets of souvenir hunters and<br />
the restaurant’s reputation as a masterpiece was common<br />
knowledge. Today that excellency is back in place with master<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes,<br />
and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A<br />
modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go. Q Open<br />
07:00 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (44-64zł). PTAUGW<br />
Spanish<br />
Taverna Espaniola A-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 65 62, www.taverna-espanola.com.pl. Six types of<br />
paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish in abundance,<br />
a superb veggie selection and a coveted location (including<br />
terrific Rynek-side seating in season) all ensure that this<br />
Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy patrons. <strong>In</strong>side you<br />
will find a vaulted room full of gloomy corners and a scary<br />
mannequin dressed like a matador. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). JAGBS<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Green Way F-4, ul. Kuźnicza 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
90 98, www.greenway.pl. A canteen-style affair offering<br />
decent fare to the health-conscious diner. Bites on show<br />
include aubergine lasagne, enchiladas, vegetables in curry<br />
sauce and pasta, and it’s very much hard to find fault with<br />
anything. A bit lacking in atmosphere, this is a budget hero<br />
and recognized as such by the students, eco-warriors and<br />
modern mums who gather here. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 20:00. (10-17zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
NEW<br />
Machina Organika ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 534 08 83<br />
60, www.machinaorganika.pl. Beyond simply vegetarian,<br />
this exciting organic vegan eatery/cafe across from Pasaż<br />
Niepolda offers very creative cuisine and a different menu every<br />
day. For example, when we dropped in it was ‘avo-mango-carrot<br />
soup with tomatoes, thyme and sunflower seeds’ (how can you<br />
resist giving that a try?). <strong>In</strong> addition to the original vegan entrees,<br />
salads and desserts, the drinks list goes beyond great coffee<br />
and unpasteurised local beers to include a range of enticing<br />
creations like avocado cocoa with almond milk, mango lassis<br />
and watermelon tonics. Set over three levels (the downstairs<br />
of which is decidely more loungey), Machina Organika also<br />
features a lovely interior with timber ceilings, a long L-shaped<br />
bar, wire light fixtures, plenty of potted plants and colourful tiles<br />
work that almost gives it a bit of a hacienda feel. Between this<br />
place and Złe Mięso we could happily never eat meat again.<br />
Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00.<br />
Closed Mon. (20zł). A6UGSW<br />
Vega B-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34,<br />
www.vega-wroclaw.com.pl. Possibly the most modest place<br />
you can eat on Wrocław’s market square, Vega offers little in<br />
terms of atmosphere, with the decor of this canteen coming<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
courtesy of potted plants and adverts for kung-fu classes. Set<br />
out over two floors, the upper of which is strictly vegan, the food<br />
is cheap and good and consists primarily of meatless variations<br />
on Polish food, ie. meatless cutlets, potato pancakes, majo<br />
salads and more. Not the most creative grub you’ve had, but<br />
how many vegan restaurants have you seen in PL, let alone on<br />
the main square? Note that the vegan part has different opening<br />
hours: 12:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (6-16zł). PTJA6GBSW<br />
Złe Mięso (Evil Meat) B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 794 85 40, www.zlemieso.pl. Say hello to Złe<br />
Mięso: arguably Wrocław’s best vegetarian restaurant and the<br />
adopted home of the city’s large alternative activist community<br />
(and all their multi-tatted and pierced friends). Be greeted by a<br />
friendly dog before choosing from the large menu of daily specials,<br />
curries, casseroles, veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and<br />
- something we’ve never seen before in PL - delicious seitan. Not<br />
super cheap, but super good for you and the portions are huge.<br />
The artsy industrial interior featuring graphic graffiti art, glasstopped<br />
tables made from plywood and pallets, milk crate light<br />
fixtures and electro music more befitting a nightclub also doubles<br />
as a hip place to hang and drink local beer. Go veg out. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (12-19zł). P6GBSW<br />
Have <strong>Your</strong> Say<br />
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed<br />
in this guide, or the dozens more that we list on our<br />
website, let the millions of visitors to our website,<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every<br />
venue online has a function for comments be they critical,<br />
complimentary or comical, so spill it!<br />
Kuchnia Marche (see Quick Eats)<br />
Great idea for a restuarant, especially if you’re not sure what<br />
to order, and you’re perhaps not wishing for a large meal.<br />
When you just pay for what you wish for- everyone wins! Remember<br />
though to keep the card with you at all times. If only<br />
the owners could be persuaded to open a branch where I live!<br />
Phil from Norwich, United Kingdom<br />
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar (see Bars)<br />
Hi there I visited Wroclaw few weeks ago and had this<br />
pleasure to find Fika Cafe. I can honestly recomend this<br />
place. It’s not expensive comparing to other places at the<br />
market square ;they serve really good tasty coffee and I love<br />
their smoothies. The size is unbelievable! The service was<br />
good and in the evening when we came back there was a<br />
party with a DJ performing in the window. Very nice place!<br />
Anna from London, UK<br />
September - December 2012<br />
49