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30 HOTELS<br />
ApartHotel Old Town Wrocław<br />
Fast and easy online booking<br />
ul. Wiezienna 21/36<br />
Tel. +48 71 330 71 21, +48 509 508 491<br />
booking@leoapart.com<br />
www.leoapart.com<br />
Edith Stein<br />
Born in Breslau, 1891, the case of Edith Stein has long<br />
divided those of Catholic and Jewish faith. Originally<br />
raised as a Jew she converted to Christianity after<br />
reading the life story of St Teresa of Avila, marking<br />
New Years’ Day, 1922 with her baptism. For the next<br />
nine years she taught in a girls school in Speyer,<br />
before finally landing a lecturing post in Munster in<br />
1932. Her new role was short-lived – Hitler’s ascent<br />
to power brought with it a set of strict racial laws, and<br />
she found herself forced to resign her position. Her<br />
letter to Pope Pius XI denouncing Hitler fell on deaf<br />
ears, and so she entered the Discalced Carmelite Monastrey<br />
in Cologne in 1933. Taking the name Teresa<br />
Benedicta of the Cross she penned numerous books<br />
and studies on spiritualism, and fled westwards to the<br />
Netherlands to escape growing fascist persecution.<br />
It was to prove in vain; in retaliation for comments<br />
made by the Dutch Bishops’ Conference, Dutch Reich<br />
Master Arthur-Seyss-<strong>In</strong>quart ordered the immediate<br />
arrest of all Jews who had converted to Christianity.<br />
Both Stein and her sister, Rosa, were packed off to<br />
Auschwitz where they were gassed to death on August<br />
9, 1942. She was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1987<br />
after a young girl made a miraculous recovery having<br />
taken a massive overdose of Tylenol. Medical opinion<br />
was confounded, with the miracle credited to prayers<br />
dedicated to Teresa. The process for sainthood was<br />
set in motion, and finally came full circle when she was<br />
canonized in 1998. However, since then both Jews<br />
and Catholics have squabbled and fought over her<br />
sainthood, each claiming her as their own.<br />
Hostels<br />
It wasn’t long ago that staying in a Wrocław hostel meant<br />
sleeping on a metal cot in a humourless Soviet-style dormitory<br />
run by a stern Polish babcia who locked the doors promptly at<br />
23:00 and didn’t entertain English-language appeals from late<br />
arrivals. Fortunately Wrocław’s discovery and development<br />
into a first-rate travel destination has changed all that, and<br />
today you’ll find the quality, quantity and value of hostels in<br />
Wrocław very high, with each subsequent opening seeming to<br />
raise the standard even more. The market is currently at its<br />
peak, and though your choices are varied and higher in volume<br />
than ever before, it’s still important to book ahead. While we<br />
don’t have space here to list every bunk in town, we’ve made<br />
an effort to include the best on the market. Sleep it off.<br />
Absynt Hostel A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48)<br />
691 40 54 05, www.absynthostel.pl. Stunningly chic<br />
and well-equipped, this hip, high-standard hostel right in the<br />
midst of the ul. Ruska nightlife action offers stylish rooms and<br />
dorms with lockers, a large, brightly-coloured common room<br />
and kitchen, satellite TV and two computers with internet.<br />
With 38 rooms accommodating 1-4 sleepers in the hostel<br />
itself, Absinthe’s offer has recently expanded to include over<br />
20 different outstandingly equipped apartments as well;<br />
that’s a tonne of options, and a good chance that there’s<br />
availability somewhere. Check their website for seasonal<br />
promotions that make this bottom budget sleeper even more<br />
of a bargain. Q38 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles, 5 triples, 4<br />
quads, 21 apartments, 20 Dorm beds). PTA6GW<br />
Avantgarde B-5, ul. Kościuszki 55, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
07 38, www.avantgardehostel.pl. A superbly modern<br />
hostel, dorms come fitted with steel frame bunks, while a limit<br />
of seven to a room ensure minimal risk of having your rest<br />
interrupted by drunken oafs snoring away or randy couples<br />
giving the bed springs a workout. Metallic grey and tangerine<br />
colours prevail throughout, adding a sharp aesthetic, while<br />
every detail and fitting shines and sparkles. Bed linen and<br />
towels are supplied gratis, some rooms come with showers<br />
and TVs, and other common facilities include high-speed<br />
internet, DVDs and a full kitchen. <strong>In</strong> fact they were doing so<br />
well that they added an additional 53 sleeping places in the<br />
same building under the banner of Ale Hostel before bringing<br />
this range of dorms and private rooms, all incidentally<br />
decorated by local designers, back under the Avantgarde<br />
name. Q56 rooms (5 singles, 23 doubles, 5 triples, 163<br />
Dorm beds). A6GW<br />
Boogie E-4, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72,<br />
www.boogiehostel.com. One more hostel to add to<br />
Wrocław’s ever growing list, and it’s not bad at all. Features of<br />
note include a great spiral staircase inside a brick tower, lots<br />
of timber frames and a Playstation in the fabulous common<br />
room, which is every bit as sexy as a pink pussycat; think<br />
low banquettes, purple colours and weird wallpaper. Facilities<br />
include their own bar, a fully stocked kitchen, bullet-fast<br />
internet and a DVD collection, while accommodation comes<br />
split between private rooms and dorms decked out with<br />
single beds - so no chance of the bloke in the upstairs bunk<br />
stepping on your head. Quite an experience, and those with<br />
an aversion to spiral stairs can catch a ride in the lift. Q21<br />
rooms (2 singles, 9 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads, 23 Dorm<br />
beds). TA6GW<br />
Chopper Hostel F-4, ul. Kotlarska 42, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 37 81, www.chopperhostel.pl. As far as we can tell,<br />
this is actually the hostel we stayed in when we first came<br />
to Wrocław back in 2006. Of course that was when it was<br />
just an anonymous guesthouse, before most of the hostels<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
listed in this guide ever came into existence, and long before<br />
you needed something like a motorbike theme to distinguish<br />
yourself from the pack. Aside from a small wall mural in<br />
each dorm room, the theme isn’t as offensive as you might<br />
anticipate, with the overriding design motif actually being the<br />
sturdy, masculine timber furnishings. Aside from free internet<br />
amenities are limited, and the common area seems to be the<br />
attached bar/restaurant, where the design concept is fully<br />
seen through to fruition and numerous events take place on<br />
the weekends. Note that hostel prices also increase slightly<br />
on weekends. Q18 rooms (6 doubles, 4 quads, 52 Dorm<br />
beds). AGKW<br />
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787<br />
75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. It is not the best hostel<br />
in Poland for nothing. With its big dorms, good bathrooms<br />
and terrific common room (where there are always travellers<br />
ready to spin you a yarn or two) and off-beat, happy staff,<br />
Mleczarnia has a recipe for success and sticks to it. For<br />
those who like a bit more privacy the doubles with their own<br />
bathrooms are tremendous (we had a pair of vintage skis in<br />
ours, which kind of sums the place up), and the apartment<br />
(in a separate building close to the Rynek) is well worth a<br />
splurge. Q8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad,<br />
34 Dorm beds). TA6GW<br />
Moon Hostel A-3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from<br />
Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00,<br />
www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. Like a lot of places in<br />
Wroclaw, this one is a bit hard to find as there are few signs<br />
to guide you through the tunnel entrance, then the courtyard,<br />
and finally up the elevator to the third floor. However, once<br />
inside you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the amount of common<br />
areas, soothing blue décor, ample kitchen and a great<br />
little play area for kids. Although the rooms have up to eight<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
<br />
HOTELS<br />
The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.<br />
ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław, tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl<br />
e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl<br />
beds, they never group you in with strangers; only the people<br />
you know and checked in with. With a friendly albeit more<br />
mature vibe, Moon Hostel is only about a five-minute walk<br />
from the Rynek and closer still to the late-night Mecca otherwise<br />
known as Pasaż Niepolda off of Ruska. Q22 rooms<br />
(5 singles, 8 doubles, 4 triples, 4 quads). A6LGW<br />
The One Hostel B-3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71 337<br />
24 02, www.theonehostel.pl. One of Wrocław’s most<br />
modern hostels, this restored 14th century townhouse on the<br />
market square offers simple dormitory rooms with fantastic<br />
views of the Town Hall that will really make you feel like you are<br />
in the very heart of the action. Double rooms and Japanese<br />
capsules are also available. <strong>In</strong> terms of frills, the standard<br />
is high, but there aren’t a whole lot of extras. <strong>In</strong> terms of<br />
location, however, this really is ‘The One.’ Q20 rooms (6<br />
singles, 6 doubles, 2 quads, 90 Dorm beds). THAGW<br />
Wratislavia C-5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71<br />
360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. With help from the<br />
EU, this handsome 19th century tenement 10 mins from the<br />
train station and market square has been transformed into<br />
a modern backpackers’ paradise. One of Wrocław’s largest<br />
hostels with 126 places, rooms range from 6-bed dorms to<br />
private suites and even 10 apartments with kitchen annexes.<br />
All include en-suite bathrooms so you’re never sharing the<br />
plumbing with more than 6 people, and guests have access<br />
to the internet cafe, guest kitchen, large dining room, common<br />
room, lockers, self-serve laundry, free tea, coffee and<br />
breakfast. The camaraderie quotient is high thanks to an<br />
enthusiastic staff and lots of common space, but Wratislavia<br />
is also perfect for those want a hostel atmosphere they can<br />
close the door on when they’ve had enough. Q33 rooms (2<br />
singles, 4 doubles, 3 triples, 17 quads, 10 apartments, 37<br />
Dorm beds). AR6UGW<br />
September - December 2012<br />
31