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WROCŁAW - In Your Pocket

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30 HOTELS<br />

ApartHotel Old Town Wrocław<br />

Fast and easy online booking<br />

ul. Wiezienna 21/36<br />

Tel. +48 71 330 71 21, +48 509 508 491<br />

booking@leoapart.com<br />

www.leoapart.com<br />

Edith Stein<br />

Born in Breslau, 1891, the case of Edith Stein has long<br />

divided those of Catholic and Jewish faith. Originally<br />

raised as a Jew she converted to Christianity after<br />

reading the life story of St Teresa of Avila, marking<br />

New Years’ Day, 1922 with her baptism. For the next<br />

nine years she taught in a girls school in Speyer,<br />

before finally landing a lecturing post in Munster in<br />

1932. Her new role was short-lived – Hitler’s ascent<br />

to power brought with it a set of strict racial laws, and<br />

she found herself forced to resign her position. Her<br />

letter to Pope Pius XI denouncing Hitler fell on deaf<br />

ears, and so she entered the Discalced Carmelite Monastrey<br />

in Cologne in 1933. Taking the name Teresa<br />

Benedicta of the Cross she penned numerous books<br />

and studies on spiritualism, and fled westwards to the<br />

Netherlands to escape growing fascist persecution.<br />

It was to prove in vain; in retaliation for comments<br />

made by the Dutch Bishops’ Conference, Dutch Reich<br />

Master Arthur-Seyss-<strong>In</strong>quart ordered the immediate<br />

arrest of all Jews who had converted to Christianity.<br />

Both Stein and her sister, Rosa, were packed off to<br />

Auschwitz where they were gassed to death on August<br />

9, 1942. She was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1987<br />

after a young girl made a miraculous recovery having<br />

taken a massive overdose of Tylenol. Medical opinion<br />

was confounded, with the miracle credited to prayers<br />

dedicated to Teresa. The process for sainthood was<br />

set in motion, and finally came full circle when she was<br />

canonized in 1998. However, since then both Jews<br />

and Catholics have squabbled and fought over her<br />

sainthood, each claiming her as their own.<br />

Hostels<br />

It wasn’t long ago that staying in a Wrocław hostel meant<br />

sleeping on a metal cot in a humourless Soviet-style dormitory<br />

run by a stern Polish babcia who locked the doors promptly at<br />

23:00 and didn’t entertain English-language appeals from late<br />

arrivals. Fortunately Wrocław’s discovery and development<br />

into a first-rate travel destination has changed all that, and<br />

today you’ll find the quality, quantity and value of hostels in<br />

Wrocław very high, with each subsequent opening seeming to<br />

raise the standard even more. The market is currently at its<br />

peak, and though your choices are varied and higher in volume<br />

than ever before, it’s still important to book ahead. While we<br />

don’t have space here to list every bunk in town, we’ve made<br />

an effort to include the best on the market. Sleep it off.<br />

Absynt Hostel A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48)<br />

691 40 54 05, www.absynthostel.pl. Stunningly chic<br />

and well-equipped, this hip, high-standard hostel right in the<br />

midst of the ul. Ruska nightlife action offers stylish rooms and<br />

dorms with lockers, a large, brightly-coloured common room<br />

and kitchen, satellite TV and two computers with internet.<br />

With 38 rooms accommodating 1-4 sleepers in the hostel<br />

itself, Absinthe’s offer has recently expanded to include over<br />

20 different outstandingly equipped apartments as well;<br />

that’s a tonne of options, and a good chance that there’s<br />

availability somewhere. Check their website for seasonal<br />

promotions that make this bottom budget sleeper even more<br />

of a bargain. Q38 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles, 5 triples, 4<br />

quads, 21 apartments, 20 Dorm beds). PTA6GW<br />

Avantgarde B-5, ul. Kościuszki 55, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />

07 38, www.avantgardehostel.pl. A superbly modern<br />

hostel, dorms come fitted with steel frame bunks, while a limit<br />

of seven to a room ensure minimal risk of having your rest<br />

interrupted by drunken oafs snoring away or randy couples<br />

giving the bed springs a workout. Metallic grey and tangerine<br />

colours prevail throughout, adding a sharp aesthetic, while<br />

every detail and fitting shines and sparkles. Bed linen and<br />

towels are supplied gratis, some rooms come with showers<br />

and TVs, and other common facilities include high-speed<br />

internet, DVDs and a full kitchen. <strong>In</strong> fact they were doing so<br />

well that they added an additional 53 sleeping places in the<br />

same building under the banner of Ale Hostel before bringing<br />

this range of dorms and private rooms, all incidentally<br />

decorated by local designers, back under the Avantgarde<br />

name. Q56 rooms (5 singles, 23 doubles, 5 triples, 163<br />

Dorm beds). A6GW<br />

Boogie E-4, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72,<br />

www.boogiehostel.com. One more hostel to add to<br />

Wrocław’s ever growing list, and it’s not bad at all. Features of<br />

note include a great spiral staircase inside a brick tower, lots<br />

of timber frames and a Playstation in the fabulous common<br />

room, which is every bit as sexy as a pink pussycat; think<br />

low banquettes, purple colours and weird wallpaper. Facilities<br />

include their own bar, a fully stocked kitchen, bullet-fast<br />

internet and a DVD collection, while accommodation comes<br />

split between private rooms and dorms decked out with<br />

single beds - so no chance of the bloke in the upstairs bunk<br />

stepping on your head. Quite an experience, and those with<br />

an aversion to spiral stairs can catch a ride in the lift. Q21<br />

rooms (2 singles, 9 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads, 23 Dorm<br />

beds). TA6GW<br />

Chopper Hostel F-4, ul. Kotlarska 42, tel. (+48) 71<br />

344 37 81, www.chopperhostel.pl. As far as we can tell,<br />

this is actually the hostel we stayed in when we first came<br />

to Wrocław back in 2006. Of course that was when it was<br />

just an anonymous guesthouse, before most of the hostels<br />

Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />

listed in this guide ever came into existence, and long before<br />

you needed something like a motorbike theme to distinguish<br />

yourself from the pack. Aside from a small wall mural in<br />

each dorm room, the theme isn’t as offensive as you might<br />

anticipate, with the overriding design motif actually being the<br />

sturdy, masculine timber furnishings. Aside from free internet<br />

amenities are limited, and the common area seems to be the<br />

attached bar/restaurant, where the design concept is fully<br />

seen through to fruition and numerous events take place on<br />

the weekends. Note that hostel prices also increase slightly<br />

on weekends. Q18 rooms (6 doubles, 4 quads, 52 Dorm<br />

beds). AGKW<br />

Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787<br />

75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. It is not the best hostel<br />

in Poland for nothing. With its big dorms, good bathrooms<br />

and terrific common room (where there are always travellers<br />

ready to spin you a yarn or two) and off-beat, happy staff,<br />

Mleczarnia has a recipe for success and sticks to it. For<br />

those who like a bit more privacy the doubles with their own<br />

bathrooms are tremendous (we had a pair of vintage skis in<br />

ours, which kind of sums the place up), and the apartment<br />

(in a separate building close to the Rynek) is well worth a<br />

splurge. Q8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad,<br />

34 Dorm beds). TA6GW<br />

Moon Hostel A-3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from<br />

Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00,<br />

www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. Like a lot of places in<br />

Wroclaw, this one is a bit hard to find as there are few signs<br />

to guide you through the tunnel entrance, then the courtyard,<br />

and finally up the elevator to the third floor. However, once<br />

inside you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the amount of common<br />

areas, soothing blue décor, ample kitchen and a great<br />

little play area for kids. Although the rooms have up to eight<br />

wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />

<br />

HOTELS<br />

The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.<br />

ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław, tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl<br />

e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl<br />

beds, they never group you in with strangers; only the people<br />

you know and checked in with. With a friendly albeit more<br />

mature vibe, Moon Hostel is only about a five-minute walk<br />

from the Rynek and closer still to the late-night Mecca otherwise<br />

known as Pasaż Niepolda off of Ruska. Q22 rooms<br />

(5 singles, 8 doubles, 4 triples, 4 quads). A6LGW<br />

The One Hostel B-3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71 337<br />

24 02, www.theonehostel.pl. One of Wrocław’s most<br />

modern hostels, this restored 14th century townhouse on the<br />

market square offers simple dormitory rooms with fantastic<br />

views of the Town Hall that will really make you feel like you are<br />

in the very heart of the action. Double rooms and Japanese<br />

capsules are also available. <strong>In</strong> terms of frills, the standard<br />

is high, but there aren’t a whole lot of extras. <strong>In</strong> terms of<br />

location, however, this really is ‘The One.’ Q20 rooms (6<br />

singles, 6 doubles, 2 quads, 90 Dorm beds). THAGW<br />

Wratislavia C-5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71<br />

360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. With help from the<br />

EU, this handsome 19th century tenement 10 mins from the<br />

train station and market square has been transformed into<br />

a modern backpackers’ paradise. One of Wrocław’s largest<br />

hostels with 126 places, rooms range from 6-bed dorms to<br />

private suites and even 10 apartments with kitchen annexes.<br />

All include en-suite bathrooms so you’re never sharing the<br />

plumbing with more than 6 people, and guests have access<br />

to the internet cafe, guest kitchen, large dining room, common<br />

room, lockers, self-serve laundry, free tea, coffee and<br />

breakfast. The camaraderie quotient is high thanks to an<br />

enthusiastic staff and lots of common space, but Wratislavia<br />

is also perfect for those want a hostel atmosphere they can<br />

close the door on when they’ve had enough. Q33 rooms (2<br />

singles, 4 doubles, 3 triples, 17 quads, 10 apartments, 37<br />

Dorm beds). AR6UGW<br />

September - December 2012<br />

31

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