WROCŁAW - In Your Pocket

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WROCŁAW
N°25 - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT)
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1642-2899
September - December 2012
Gross-Rosen
Former Nazi
concentration camp
Karl Denke
Lower Silesia’s own
serial killer & cannibal

Contents
Arrival & Transport 10
The Basics 14
Culture & Events 17
Hotels 22
Restaurants 32
Cafes 50
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 52
Clubs 57
History 60
The story of Karl Denke, known today as ‘the Cannibal
of Ziębice’, was actually lost for decades until Lucyna
Biały, an archivist at the University Library in Wrocław,
rediscovered it in 1999 while reading German newspapers
from the 1920s. Coincidentally, the republishing of the
shocking story also solved the mystery of a strange series
of photographs that Tadeusz Dobosz - today professor of
Forensic Medicine at the Medical Academy of Wrocław –
had found dumped in the trash at the Medical Academy
in the 1980s and rescued out of curiosity. Originally
belonging to the German Institute of Forensic Medicine
in Breslau, the photos turned out to be police slides
taken during the investigation of Denke’s apartment in
1924, including images of human remains, killing tools,
suspenders made of human skin and the only known
photo of Karl Denke – taken after his death and pictured
above. For the complete details of this grisly story turn to
page 24.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
CONTENTS
Hidden on a hill of granite 65 miles southwest of Wrocław
lie the partial remains of one of the largest, most complex
and completely compassionless mechanisms of mass
slaughter ever created. Gross-Rosen was but one
seemingly small cog in an almost inconceivable system of
12,000 concentration camps extending over 17 occupied
countries outside the Reich; however, Gross-Rosen’s own
administration over a vast network of almost 100 regional
sub-camps is indicative of the sheer scale of the horror
that Hitler created literally from village to village, across an
entire continent. Today the site serves as a museum, and
a memorial to all those perished. We visit it on page 6.
Sightseeing
Essential Wrocław 62
Old Town 67
Ostrów Tumski 68
Centennial Hall & Parks 70
Jewish Warsaw 72
Gnomes 73
Festung Breslau 74
Further Afield
Silesian Churches of Peace 76
The Great Escape 79
Leisure 80
Shopping 82
Directory 89
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 91
City Map 92
Country Map 94
Tram Map 95
Street Register 96
Listings Index 97
Features Index 98
September - December 2012
3

4
FOREWORD
It’s my great honour to introduce you to Wrocław In Your
Pocket and proudly point out that this is our landmark 25 th
issue (please hold your applause until the end). If you’re reading
this guide for the first time, welcome aboard; it’s a shame you
didn’t join us sooner. We can sincerely say you missed one hell
of a summer, but more than that it’s been an incredible pleasure
and a privilege to witness Wrocław’s development over the last
8-plus years that we’ve been producing this guide. After all, we
remember when it seemed you couldn’t buy a green vegetable
anywhere in this town and eating ethnic food meant pickled
cabbage in a tortilla; when staying in a hostel meant bringing
your own sheets to sleep on a metal cot in an anti-social Sovietera
dormitory run by a humourless granny who locked the
doors promptly at 23:00 and didn’t entertain English-language
appeals for late-arrivals. My how times have changed. Now
we’ve got ultra-hip vegan eateries (p.49) and juice bars (p.50)
popping up around the city centre, and finding a cheap bed
that not only isn’t comfortable, but doesn’t seem to come with
the prospect of trading your pillow for a cute girl is increasingly
difficult. Wrocław has come a long way in a short amount of
time and the evidence is everywhere, from the hundreds of
tourists snapping photos of gnomes (p.73) to the unveiling of
the Wrocław Fountain and recent renovation of Centennial Hall
(p.70). Surely you’ve already seen how phenomenal the train
station looks since its facelift (best station in PL, hands down,
p.12) and do we even need to mention the success of that little
football tournament earlier this summer?
No sooner is Euro 2012 over than Wrocław is gearing up for
its next star turn as 2016 European Capital of Culture. It’s
also difficult not to see the recent opening of the imposing
Sky Tower – the city’s tallest skyscraper (p.87) – as a symbol
of Wrocław’s determination to make a name for itself as a
dynamic city on the rise. Wrocław is exactly that, and you’ve
arrived at an excellent time. As the city has developed so
have we, and like every issue before it, the trusty tome you
hold in your hands represents our best guidebook to date.
Within these pages you’ll find the most honest, up-to-date
information on all the best and worst drinking holes, dance
parties and dining establishments in this densely-packed
city, plus all of the memorable things to see and do between
indulgences. Business as usual as far as we’re concerned,
and we go about it gladly. Let us know what you think about
the venues you visit by dropping some comments on our
website – wroclaw.inyourpocket.com – and feel free to
extend your glad tidings or air your grievances at
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Have a great time in
Wrocław. (You may now commence clapping.)
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wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

6
GROSS-ROSEN
Located about 65 miles southwest of Wrocław, the small,
inauspicious German village of Gross-Rosen (today known as
Rogoźnice) became the site of one of the largest and most brutal
concentration camps in the Third Reich. Opened as a small
satellite of Sachsenhausen in 1940, Gross-Rosen became an
independent camp less than a year later and quickly grew into
the largest in Lower Silesia with almost 100 sub-camps around
the region. Known for its harsh conditions and high mortality
rate, by the time the camp was liberated by the Soviet Army in
early 1945 an estimated 125,000 inmates had been processed
through its gates, 40,000 of whom never made it out alive.
Today the former site of the camp serves as a memorial for
those victims, as well as a public museum with several exhibits,
an enlightening film and plenty of space for reflection.
While names like Auschwitz and Dachau have been burned
into the collective consciousness, lesser known but no less
significant camps like Gross-Rosen serve to remind us of
just how extensive, efficient and horrifying Hitler’s concentration
camp system was. Those who take on the challenge of
travelling to Gross-Rosen can expect to leave not only with
an understanding of the history of the site and the tragedy of
the Holocaust, but also with a reaffirmed respect for human
life and the human spirit; the same respect for life that the
Nazi regime’s failure to possess plunged the people of Europe
into the worst hell imaginable only two generations ago.
Visiting the Museum
A visit to Gross-Rosen begins by visiting the parking
attendant just inside the entrance gate, whose small
kiosk also serves as the camp’s information desk. If you
came by car you’ll have to pay 3zł for parking, which is
essentially the camp’s admission price if you aren’t going
on a guided tour or interested in seeing the film. Admission
to the camp is officially free, but there’s really no
reason not to pay the nominal fee of 3/5zł to see the quite
excellent film; it’s offered in 30 or 60 minute versions
and can be viewed in the former SS Canteen building in
almost any language you want, whenever you’re ready.
At this window you can also pick up some valuable info,
maps and guidebooks to the camp in English.
Visiting the camp takes a minimum of 2 hours, but can take
up to 4 hours if you’re as thorough as we were. With travel
time it is basically a full day’s outing from Wrocław. Be aware
that there is no food or drink available at the camp, with
the exception of a small Nescafe coffee vending machine
near the bathrooms on the ground floor of the former SS
Canteen. Though the machine does have a button labelled
‘tomato soup,’ we strongly recommend you pack a lunch
for your visit, rather than try your luck pressing that button.
What to See
Gross-Rosen Museum ul. Ofiar Gross-Rosen 26,
Rogoźnica, tel. (+48) 669 18 87 79, www.gross-rosen.
eu. In addition to the film, the camp consists of three permanent
museum exhibits, as well as some small temporary
exhibits. Like most former concentration camps, after its
evacuation Gross Rosen was largely destroyed by the Nazis
and today not much remains of the former camp buildings
aside from their foundations and a few faithful reconstructions.
For visiting tourists, the main sights of the camp can
basically be divided into four sections, which we detail below.
The Former SS Camp and Canteen:
You’ll notice that Gross-Rosen today basically has two
gates - the main entrance gate from the road and the historic
entrance gate into the camp, beyond which prisoners were
confined. Originally, this large area between the gates - including
the present-day parking area and information point - was
occupied by the SS camp and administrative buildings of
Gross-Rosen. On the left side of the camp’s main road stood
the barracks for the SS officers, beyond which was the official
parade grounds and even a swimming pool for the officers.
Today the most important site for visitors, however, is the
former SS Canteen on the right side of the road.
This building likely owes its survival to the fact that it was
the most intact when the Red Army turned the site over to
Polish authorities. During the life of the camp, this building
was basically a recreation centre for off-duty SS men,
including a mess hall, kitchen, store rooms and casino.
Standing adjacent to it in a similar building would have been
the camp commandant’s office and headquarters. Today it
houses the Gross-Rosen Museum’s main exhibition - “KL
Gross-Rosen 1941-1945” - and screening rooms for the
film. All of the displays are in Polish, however they have been
thoroughly reproduced in English in a rather hefty booklet
that you should request from the museum attendant upon
entering. Giving a detailed history of the camp’s creation,
development and the cruel realities of everyday life there,
the exhibition covers everything from escape attempts to
the fates of the perpetrators. Including extensive first-hand
accounts, artefacts, plenty of maps - including a large
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
3D scale model of the camp - and even original art made
by survivors, the exhibit is highly informative and upfront
without seeking sympathy . Don’t miss the shocking
stained glass windows in the first room, and bear in mind
that the only bathrooms in the camp are in this building
(both upstairs and down); they will seem really far away if
you need them later.
The Quarry:
Gross-Rosen owes its existence and its location to the granite
quarry located directly next to the camp. ‘Quarry means
death’ was the ominous phrase spoken by the camp’s
prisoners, who knew they wouldn’t last long if they were
assigned to work there. In the first two years of the camp,
however, it was unavoidable. As the camp grew, inmates
would quarry stone 12 hours a day on starvation rations
while being terrorised by SS officers only to build prison
barracks in the evenings. The camp’s own doctor, who went
on to work in other camps later in the war, described the
living conditions he saw at Gross-Rosen as worse than at
other camp for the simple fact that all of the prisoners were
employed in the quarry. The mortality rate was extremely
high and the average lifespan of a quarry worker at Gross-
Rosen was not more than 5 weeks. Make a right from in
front of the Prisoners’ Camp Gate and walk up a small hill
to see and reflect on this rather picturesque pit where so
many men were worked to their deaths.
The Prisoners’ Camp Entrance Gate:
Gross-Rosen’s most iconic
building is the completely
restored prisoners’ camp
entrance gate with its infamous,
obligatory and
insincere mantra Arbeit
Macht Frei (‘Work Makes
You Free’) emblazoned
above the granite archway,
beyond which there was
actually almost no chance
of freedom. Topped with
a watchtower, flanked by
two wooden guardhouses,
and surrounded with what
was once an electric fence, here you’ll find the museum’s
other two primary exhibits. In the guardhouse on the left
side is the permanent exhibit ‘Lost Humanity’ which gives
a general but succinct and enlightening overview of Europe
in the years 1919-1945, focussing on Hitler’s rise to power,
the growth of German fascism, the origin and development
of the concentration camp system - described as ‘Hitler’s
extermination apparatus’ - and the plight of Poland trapped
between two totalitarian regimes bent on expansion. In the
guardhouse on the right side is the exhibit ‘AL Riese - Satellite
Camps of the Former Concentration Camp Gross-Rosen,’
which details the sub-camps of Gross-Rosen located in the
Owl Mountains southwest of Wrocław along the modern-day
border of Poland and Czech Republic. Established in 1943
as the tide of WWII began to turn against the Third Reich,
the work camps of AL Riese were created to build what many
believe was to be a massive underground headquarters
for Hitler. The project was eventually abandoned, but not
before over 194,232 square metres of secret passageways
were dug into the mountains by prisoners, some 3,648 of
whom died during the work. While the exhibit does much to
explain why sub-camp Riese had such a high death rate, it
rather disappointingly doesn’t indulge in speculation about
Hitler’s plans for the project, which remains one of WWII’s
greatest mysteries. Displays in both guardhouse exhibits are
presented in English, Polish, French, German and Russian.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
GROSS-ROSEN
A Brief History
Gross-Rosen Concentration Camp came into being
on August 2nd, 1940 when a transport of prisoners
was sent to the SS-owned quarry on a hill above the
small German village of the same name (today known
as Polish Rogoźnice) and essentially forced to begin
building the camp themselves. Soon more and more
prisoners were being sent and by May 1st, 1941
Gross-Rosen had grown enough to gain the status of
a self-reliant concentration camp. Conditions in the
camp in its first two years were especially harsh with
12-hour work days spent excavating granite from the
quarry, insufficient food rations and violent abuse from
the SS officers and staff who were actually awarded
military decorations from Nazi command for inhumane
treatment of the prisoners and executions. While the
famous Nazi motto written above the camp’s gate
and divulged to the inmates was ‘Arbeit Macht Free’
(Work Makes You Free), the administration actually
phrased it a different way, operating the camp under
the acknowledged motto of ‘Vernichtung Durch
Arbeit’ (Extermination Through Work). At the camp’s
start prisoners were forbidden from receiving mailed
parcels, however the administration later reckoned
that changing the policy would allow them to continue
serving the same starving food rations. All packages
were inspected and any valuables were stolen, but
food was allowed; thus, in the Nazis’ view, people in
occupied countries became partly responsible for
feeding the inmates. Due to the deplorable conditions,
Gross-Rosen was regarded by the Nazis themselves
as among the worst of all the concentration camps.
An increasing emphasis on using prison labour in
armaments production lead to the large expansion of
Gross-Rosen in 1944, when it became the administrative
hub of a vast network of at least 97 sub-camps
all across Lower Silesia and the surrounding region.
While several hundred Jews had been prisoners
of the camp between 1940 and 1943, most of its
population were Polish and Soviet POWs. However
as camps further east began to be evacuated, a
vast influx of Jews began to arrive in Gross-Rosen,
including prisoners from Auschwitz for whom a whole
new annex of the camp was built specifically in the
fall of 1944. [Readers familiar with the story of Oskar
Schindler may know that some of his Jewish workers
were sent to Gross-Rosen on their way to Brünnlitz,
which was itself a sub-camp of Gross-Rosen located
in Czech Republic.] Between October 1943 and January
of 1945 as many as 60,000 Jews were deported
to Gross-Rosen, mostly from Poland and Hungary.
Gross-Rosen also had one of the highest populations
of female prisoners in the entire concentration camp
system at this time.
One of the last camps to be evacuated, in early February
1945 the Germans forced some 40,000 prisoners,
half of whom were Jews, on brutal death marches to
the west which lasted days, and even weeks in some
cases. With no food or water, freezing conditions,
and an SS policy of shooting anyone who looked too
weak to continue, many of the former inmates did not
survive to freedom. Gross-Rosen was liberated by the
Soviet Army on February 13, 1945. It is estimated that
125,000 prisoners went through the camp, 40,000
of whom perished.
September - December 2012
7

8
GROSS-ROSEN
Getting There
The sites for Nazi concentration camps were often
dictated by existing infrastructure and the ease of
transporting prisoners there by rail (see: Auschwitz-
Birkenau). Gross-Rosen is a bit of an anomaly in
this regard, in that it is not easy to visit if you don’t
have a car. Located in Rogożnica, 65km west of
Wrocław on the road between Strzegom and Jawor,
if you do have access to a vehicle the journey takes
about an hour.
By train: There are a half dozen connections from
Wrocław to Rogoźnica throughout the day, but you’ll
notice that none of them are direct. Most make a
change in Legnica or Jaworzyna Śląska and the travel
time is anywhere between 1hr 20mins and 2hrs
45mins, with a total cost of 14-20zł depending on the
train. To check the exact times go to rozklad-pkp.
pl which has limited but effective English language
functionality.
Unfortunately getting to Rogoźnica train station is not
the end of the journey. Gross-Rosen Concentration
Camp is about another 3km from the train station
and with no buses the only way to get there is on
foot, or by flagging down a ride. The walk is not difficult,
but it is slightly uphill the whole way and takes
about 30mins. Ironically, this is the same walk that
prisoners were forced to make, albeit under gunpoint
by SS men with dogs as the German peasants of the
village spat and threw stones at them; those that fell
from exhaustion were often shot or beaten. Puts it
in perspective, no?
Getting to the camp on foot: If you are standing
on the small, crumbling station platform facing the
tracks, head to your left, making another left when
you get to the road about 100m away. This road
takes you down a residential street into the village
of Rogoźnica leading to a church, around which
you’ll make another left and then a relatively quick
right onto ul. Ofiar Gross Rosen (Victims of Gross
Rosen Road). On this road you’ll pass the town’s
only two shops, which you might be wise to stop in
considering there will be no later opportunities to
purchase food or drink at the camp (bear in mind
that you’re in a village and these shops close early,
especially on weekends, if they are open at all). At
the fork in the road with the large cross, stay left
following the signs to ‘Muzeum Gross-Rosen.’ This
is basically the half-way point and the rest of the
way is a slight uphill grade straight to the gates of
the camp, which you can’t miss.
The Prisoners’ Camp:
Passing through the main gate visitors have the opportunity
to wander the grounds of the camp where informational
markers explain the buildings that once stood there and their
significance. Though mostly ruins and foundations, among
the objects that have been preserved are the basements of
the prisoners’ bathhouse, kitchen and one of the barracks,
the original camp bell, sections of the original camp fence,
the field crematorium, and the ‘death wall’ where mass executions
were committed. Restoration work is ongoing and
some barracks have also been recently rebuilt to hold future
exhibits where some small temporary displays currently exist.
Immediately to your left upon entering the camp is the roll call
square and camp gallows. It was here that prisoners were
forced to gather twice a day to be counted, a process which
often took hours in inclement weather. Show executions for
those that broke the rules were also commonplace. Escapes
attempts were frequent, but rarely successful and those that
were captured were executed and displayed on the square,
often dressed in clownish outfits with painted cheeks and
signboards hanging off their dead bodies proclaiming, ‘I’m
back with you again.’
The most interesting and evocative objects are in the far right
corner of the camp, including a towering stone mausoleum
into which prisoners’ ashes from the pits surrounding the
nearby crematorium were placed in 1953. Close behind, a
large, rather symbolic dead tree stands above the execution
wall, around which dozens of personal monuments have been
placed by the families of camp victims. On the other side of
the fence a wooden watchtower has been reconstructed on
what was actually an additional annex of the camp added in
the later stages of the war to house prisoners relocated after
the evacuation of Auschwitz. Unfortunately the territory of what
was known as the ‘Auschwitz Camp’ is currently off-limits to
tourists (which is a shame because the views from the tower
would be impressive). Q Open 08:00 - 18:00. From October
open 08:00 - 16:00. 30min film 3zł, 60min film 5zł. Foreign
language guided tours available if arranged in advance: groups
of up to 15 people 70zł; groups up to 50 people 120zł.
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10 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
By Bus
International and domestic buses arrive and depart from
Dworzec Centralny - the somewhat grimy bus terminal
located immediately behind the railway station on ul. Sucha
(B-6). In addition to being a stop on the Eurolines international
coach network, Polski Bus (polskibus.com) operates budget
routes to Prague, Łódź and Warsaw from Wrocław. Absent
from that list is Kraków. Despite the A4 highway going straight
to Kraków, getting there by bus from Wrocław is harder than
it should be with LinkBus (link-bus.com) and Lajkonik
(lajkonikbus.pl) bus companies both offering limited service.
Wrocław Bus Station (Dworzec Centralny PKS)
B-6, ul. Sucha 1/11, tel. (+48) 71 333 05 30. Grim and
uncouth, Wrocław’s bus station isn’t exactly the city’s greatest
ambassador. With the train station having undergone a thorough
sprucing up, Dworzec Centralny is now the city’s unofficial day
care centre for drunks and lunatics, no doubt driven to madness
by the overriding unhelpfulness of the people working at the
ticket windows. The purchase of tickets can be attempted at any
number of windows, each of which has its own overly-complex
opening hours, though we know at least one is always available
between 06:00 and 21:30; for international (międzynarodowe)
tickets, try platform number 4. In Wrocław’s bus station you’ll
also find toilets (open 06:00 - 23:30, 2zł - after that use the
automatic ones near the platforms, the cost is 1zł), an ATM
just outside the main entrance and a currency exchange (open
07:00 - 22:00) inside the main station building. Compared to the
bus station, the train station is upstanding and highly navigable,
with more services on hand. Those heading into town will likely
need to go this direction anyway. Most of the city’s hotels and
hostels are within 15 minutes walk of the bus station and taking
public transport doesn’t make a ton of sense unless you
know exactly why you’re doing so. If at a loss, jump in a MPT
Radio Taxi (71 191 91).
By Car
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a
statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of
using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces,
networks unsuited to the volume of traffic and, most
of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour result in the
common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While
the road quality issue is being addressed with EU directives
and funding, the size of the country’s road network means that
it will still be years before results are seen in many places.
Almost all roads outside of urban areas are a single lane in
each direction, meaning traffic is inevitably bogged down by the
fleet of lorries that traverse Poland as well as the odd farmer in
a horse-cart. This results in impatient drivers overtaking each
other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming
traffic. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between you
and the vehicle in front.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban
areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and
passport at all times when driving.
One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 connects
Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków (via Opole
and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is pedestrianised,
meanwhile one-way and seemingly accessible streets that
are actually only available to permit holders make driving in
the centre an absolute nightmare. Poor planning and limited
traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem as
well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty minutes
to get to you, though it’s only a few blocks away. As such, we
suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity, which
raises the question of where to put it.
Free parking is available at Arkady Wrocławskie (A-5, next to the
railway station, and note only the first hour is free, and although
you can leave your car here overnight, the place is closed from
23:00-06:00, Sat, Sun 23:00-08:00). The multi-storey car park
on ul. Rzeźnicza, next to the Sofitel (A-3) charges 8zł per hour or
120zł day. Some hotels have limited parking spaces, so check
when booking your room. Street parking is of course available
by seeking out the large blue signs with the letter ‘P’ on them.
Tickets are available from parking meters and those wishing
to park in the city centre will be charged 3zł for the first hour,
3.60zł for the second hour and 4.30zł for the third. Thereafter
you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour.
Guarded Parking G-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 32.
Guarded Parking A-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 5/7.
By Plane
Wrocław can boast one of Poland’s most efficient and modern
airports, thanks to the shiny new terminal built a few
hundred metres from the old one and opened in March 2012.
Built ahead of the Euro2012 Football Championships the new
terminal has been built to handle over 3 million passengers
annually and is Ryanair’s first hub in Poland.
Wrocław Nicolaus Copernicus Airport (Port Lotniczy
im. Mikołaja Kopernika we Wrocławiu) ul.
Graniczna 190, tel. (+48) 71 358 13 81, www.airport.wroclaw.pl.
Named Wrocław Nicolaus Copernicus Airport, the
airport does a fine job in ushering people in and out of the city.
Just 13 km west of the city centre you will be through passport
control and baggage claim in minutes, at which stage you will
probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend using
one of the ATMs (Bankomats) as the currency exchange desk
offers what we might politely term to be ‘not the best exchange
rates in Poland.’ You will also find press stores, tourist and
airport information desks, a restaurant, bars and a coffee shop.
The easiest way into town is to jump into one of the taxis
sitting outside. The new terminal restricts pick-ups to three
vetted firms. That means ZTP Radio Taxi (tel. 71 19622),
Taxi Plus (tel. 607 19 18 44) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196
27). They all have the same tariffs and you can expect to pay
40-50zł during the day with this rising by around 20zł at night
and at weekends. If you do not see one of these firms, which
have their numbers on the vehicle, we suggest you call one.
Quite frankly though, given the relatively short distance into
town you might just as well hop on the bus. Tickets cost
3.00zl and can be bought from the press store inside the
terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop.
Buses run roughly every 20 minutes from 05:13 - 23:14
(05:19 - 23:14 on Saturdays and Sundays) with a night bus
(route 249) departing at 00:23, 03:02 and 04:02. Particularly
bulky pieces of luggage warrant an extra charge of 1.50zl
but we have never seen this rule enforced.
For live arrival and departure information call the
number given or visit the airport’s excellent website.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
By Train
Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a gloriously
renovated main train station that was at one time the
largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before the Euro
Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably the nicest
train station in Poland, making a wonderful impression on
all those who arrive via the rails. Located just south of the
market square, from here it is possible to catch domestic
connections to Kraków (5hrs), Warsaw (7-8hrs) and Poznań
(3hrs), and international lines to Berlin (6-7hrs), Dresden
(3.5hrs) and Prague (5-6hrs). Miłej podróży!
Wrocław Main Train Station
(Dworzec Główny) B-6,
ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48)
197 57, www.rozklad.pkp.pl.
Recently the beneficiary of a massive
293 million złoty investment,
Wrocław’s main train station has
never looked better. Completed in
1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic
building, with its decadent exterior
of turrets and crenulations, has
been given a fresh blaze of bright
orange-yellow paint - and while
not necessarily the colour we would have chosen, it certainly
makes an impression. Looking like a grandiose palace from
its early days, the station finally has the surrounding grounds
to match, with a green public square replete with dozens of
benches and two playful fountains to replace the car park
and gas station that formerly stood in front of the entrance.
There’s even a plethora of covered bicycle parking and a
new underground parking complex nearby (follow the signs).
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Inside, all the elegant architectural details of the original design
have been brought back to life, while new digital display screens
give you all the arrival and departure info you need. Modernised
to be completely handicap accessible, during our most recent
visit some of the escalators and lifts had yet to come to life,
but there are every handy conveyors to put your luggage on if
you chose the stairs. Other amenities include 24-hour ticket
windows, information desks, lockers and a left luggage service,
ATMs (bankomat), currency exchange offices (kantor), comfortable
waiting rooms, and even a VIP waiting room for those with
first-class tickets. Several shops, restaurants, cafes are already
in place and with space to spare, more will no doubt soon be
moving in. Overall it adds up to the most convenient, comfortable,
and easy to navigate train station in Poland.
Be aware, however, that despite there being over a dozen
ticket windows, you may still be greeted by long queues, so
give yourself plenty of time. If in a rush, remember that you
can buy tickets on board the train from the conductor, though
you’ll pay a hefty surcharge. Station departures (odjazdy) are
listed on the yellow timetables and arrivals (przyjazdy) on the
white ones. Check the large digital display board for the number
of the platform (peron). Visit the Polish railways website
at rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English
language functionality - to check the times ahead of travelling.
As for getting into town, you are basically in it. Most of the
city’s hotels and hostels are within 15 minutes walking distance,
and given that penetrating the inner Old Town on public
transport requires you take at least two trams, it probably
isn’t worth the hassle. If you really don’t fancy the walk, there
are taxis waiting of front of both station entrances. Q Open
24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations
cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:00.
September - December 2012
11

12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Train Station History
One of central Wrocław’s most impressive structures is no
doubt its main train station, whose flamboyant Neo-Gothic
facade full of turrets and crenulations more resembles a
19th century palace than a modern transportation complex.
Originally built in the years 1855–1857 to form the starting
point of the Oberschlesische Eisenbahn (Upper Silesian
Railway), the station was the design of Royal Prussian architect
Wilhelm Grapow, and despite having only one platform
it was still regarded as the biggest station in Europe. When
it first opened the station stood afield from the rest of urban
Breslau (as the German city was then known), flanked by a
lake and a Jewish cemetery. However, as the city grew so did
the need for more trains, and by 1904 five new platforms
had been added. It was on Platform 3 that popular cult actor
Zbigniew Cybulski (aka ‘The Polish James Dean’) died while
trying to jump onto a moving train bound for Warsaw. Today
a commemorative plaque unveiled by director Andrzej Wajda
on January 8, 1997 - the 30th anniversary of the event - can
be seen on the floor of the busy platform.
While railway station modernisation projects in Poland’s
other major cities have seemingly turned their stations into
soulless shopping malls, Wrocław’s station has retained its
original design, which in the exciting build-up to Euro 2012
was completely restored and enhanced to be handicapaccessible,
including lifts, escalators and luggage belts
leading to the platforms. The space in front of the station
was transformed from a parking lot and gas station into
a green public square with two fountains and plenty of
benches. With space for comfortable amenities like waiting
rooms, restaurants, shops and cafes, the result is nothing
less than modern Poland’s most magnificent train station.
Car Rental
Avis A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego
49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel.
(+48) 71 372 35 67, www.
avis.pl. Internationally trusted service offering a range
of vehicles from sedan to mini-vans. Avis also has a desk
at the airport (tel. 601 35 48 11) but you must arrange
in advance to pick up or drop off a car there. Q Open
08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.
Europcar ul. Graniczna
190 (Airport), tel. (+48)
71 358 12 91, www.
europcar.pl. Offering both short and long-term rental
options with eight different categories of car available
to suit your specific needs. Excellence in service with
benefits tailored to your individual requirements. Europcar
is present at all Polish airports including Wrocław
Copernicus. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30.
Joka B-5, ul. Kościuszki 34
(Pałacyk), tel. (+48) 601
54 53 69, www.joka.com.
pl. A wide range of cars from
the baby Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi
station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available.
Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka
website. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun
open on request.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Public Transport
Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and
fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines.
You’ll rarely need trams or buses to get around the
Old Town, but many affordable hotels and some sights
are located outside the centre. Major hubs for trams
and buses include the main train station (B-6), Pl.
Dominikański (C-3), and Pl. Jana Pawła II (E-4). Buses
and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 00:00, with irregular
night buses running after that. You can buy
tickets from any kiosk marked “Ruch” and most marked
“Prasa”. Most transport stops, and all trams and buses
now also have automatic ticket machines, however
those on trams and buses only accept payment cards,
while those at stops accept cash.
A single fare ticket is 3zł, though note that night buses
cost 3.20zł. 48-hr (20/10zł) and 72-hr (26/13zł) tickets
good for all public transport in and around the city are
also available and might be clever if you plan on riding
more than twice a day. ISIC or other non-Polish student
ID is valid for a significant student discount, but you
must carry your ID.
Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid
until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus. If you’re
caught without a properly punched ticket, you’ll owe the city
of Wroclaw 120zł, or 150zł if they don’t get the money within
seven days, plus the price of the original ticket.
Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money.
‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday and ‘w dni
wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday.
Taxis
Rogue taxis are still a bit of a problem in Wrocław, especially
around the train station. Make sure that your cab is clearly
marked, has a rate card in the window and that the driver turns
the metre on and you should be fine. Under Polish law the driver is
now obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. In some instances
it is possible to pay by credit card but do ask beforehand.
On the whole you’ll pay an initial 6zł fee, before being charged from
3zł per kilometre. Note that after 22:00 you’ll be paying a premium
night tariff. Prices also rise at weekends and if travelling outside
the city limits. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a
point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service
that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver
may not expect one. But double standards being what they are,
it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10%
is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.
Lux Taxi, tel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl.
MPT Radio Taxi, tel. (+48) 71 191 91, www.919.com.pl.
Taxi Blues, tel. (+48) 71 196 61, www.taxiblues.pl.
Taxi Plus, tel. (+48) 601 70 07 53.
Partner Taxi, tel.
(+48) 71 196 27, www.
partner-taxi.pl. Partner’s
high-quality service make
them your best bet for
a cab in Wrocław. Operating clean cars of the same
distinctive make, from Partner you can request an
English-speaking driver or child’s car seat, and when
you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a
credit card to get home.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
98
September - December 2012
13

14 BASICS
Facts & Figures
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), the
shady Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania
(103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Wrocław has an area of 292.82 square kilometres, and
is the largest city in Lower Silesia (Dolny Śląsk).
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at
1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Wrocław
sits on the Oder (Odra) River which flows 854km through
western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German border
before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL.
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499m) in the
Tatra Mountains along the country’s southern border
with Slovakia.
Population (2011)
Poland: 38,538,447
Warsaw: 1,708,491
Kraków: 759,137
Łódź: 728,892
WROCŁAW: 631,235
Poznań: 554,696
Gdańsk: 460,517
Katowice: 310,764
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Wrocław it’s 6:00 am in
New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin
and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs)
starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and
October.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be less
than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies depending
by type; photos ‹6,000zł, other art ‹16,000zł, for example); if
one of these conditions is met, the gallery curator can then
provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission document)
describing the artwork’s price and when and where it was
created. If the work exceeds the permitted age and value,
you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator
Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland;
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permission
must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary documents;
if there is any doubt about the value or age of your
purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques
dealer - see Shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home, though
if arriving without one, try your luck with hotel reception; they
should be able to point you to an electrical store if unable to
provide a convertor themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using a
separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress:
dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a
mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season.
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list
of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out
for the Western Union logo.
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with
a simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu?” If you don’t have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Intermax A-3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71
794 05 73, www.imx.pl. Very expensive and unpleasant
printing, copying and faxing services also available. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. 4zł/hour.
Navigator B-3, ul. Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 59 62.
Printing and cd-burning available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
4zł/hour.
Law & Order
In general Wrocław is safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ
common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers
should be on guard against pickpockets. Those travelling
by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes
connecting Wrocław with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette
or sleeper cabin and keep an eye on your things.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Market Values
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of August 20, 2012 based on
€1 = 4.03zł
Product Price (zł) Price (€)
McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 zł € 2.26
Snickers 1.45 zł € 0.36
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 zł € 5.70
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 zł € 0.72
0.5ltr beer (bar) 8.00 zł € 1.99
Loaf of white bread 1.79 zł € 0.44
20 Marlboros 12.60 zł € 3.13
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.82 zł € 1.44
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.00 zł € 0.74
law. In recent years foreign wits - from those in Chewbacca
costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly
acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre
fountain - have tested the patience of the local law enforcement.
Their tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t
push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip
to Wrocław’s premier drunk tank (ul. Sokolnicza 16/20), a
chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for a
6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search,
a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrants. Refreshment comes in the form of limitless coffee,
though the mug sometimes comes with the smell of urine
for a reason. Credit cards are not accepted.
Another easy way for tourists to cross cops is by jaywalking.
If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect
jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people
standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to
change. The reason for obeying this seemingly silly rule is
the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite
freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place
where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’
light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign
visitor. You are subject to the law too and your non-residency
means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful
chaps will even accept foreign currency).
Quick Currency Convertor
PLN US$ Euro Pound
3.27zł = $1 4.03zł = €1 5.14zł = £1
1 zł $0.31 € 0.25 £0.19
2 zł $0.61 € 0.50 £0.39
3 zł $0.92 € 0.74 £0.58
4 zł $1.22 € 0.99 £0.78
5 zł $1.53 € 1.24 £0.97
6 zł $1.83 € 1.49 £1.17
7 zł $2.14 € 1.74 £1.36
8 zł $2.45 € 1.99 £1.56
9 zł $2.75 € 2.23 £1.75
10 zł $3.06 € 2.48 £1.95
20 zł $6.12 € 4.96 £3.89
50 zł $15.29 € 12.41 £9.73
100 zł $30.58 € 24.81 £19.46
150 zł $45.87 € 37.22 £29.18
200 zł $61.16 € 49.63 £38.91
250 zł $76.45 € 62.03 £48.64
1 000 zł $305.81 € 248.14 £194.55
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
BASICS
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food
franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change
for such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often
provide better value than the banks in your home country or
the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors
in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites.
Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list
of Kantors in Wrocław, see Directory.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destination,
prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the
country less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having
said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues
and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to
Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely
cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums
costs around 5-15zł.
Post
A bureaucratic nightmare buried under paperwork riddled
with illegible stamps and seals, there is no indication that
Poland’s postal service - Poczta Polska - will be automated
or computerised during our lifetimes. There can be no doubt
that the post office is one of the most frustrating places to
be a foreigner in Poland, as you’re guaranteed to not understand
a damn thing happening there. Your best ally is the
person in line next to you; if there’s one person in the room
who speaks not a word of English, it’s the qualified clerk at
the service window. Also, don’t expect any signs to feature
English translations, though all paperwork has been mystifyingly
translated into French (and only French). When you get to
the head of that insufferably long queue, don’t be surprised
to be sent to another or back to the end, paperwork in hand.
The declaration that your nicely wrapped parcel is somehow
‘unacceptable’ is another popular reason why you might find
yourself ready to ‘go postal’, though there are many others.
If sending something of any monetary or sentimental value,
please, make sure you do so by using priority mail or better;
magic word: ‘Priorytet.’ Choosing the cheapest overseas
option available will ensure your package is opened before it
arrives and the contents may or may not be removed. We’re
not exaggerating.
There are many post offices around Wrocław, including on
the market square. The enormous satellite crowned edifice
at ul. Krasińskiego 1 (C-3/4) is certainly the largest and most
incomprehensible. Good luck, gringo.
Post Office B-3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 38,
www.poczta-polska.pl. Typically efficient Polish post office.
Q Open 24hrs.
National Holidays
November 1 All Saints’ Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
September - December 2012
15

16 BASICS
Language Smarts Religion
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
Basic pronunciation of consonants
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cześć (cheshch) hi/bye
dzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/
afternoon
dobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
tak (tahk) yes
nie (nyeh) no
proszę (prosheh) please
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank you
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
kocham cię (koham tshe) I love you
Mam na imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Jestem z Anglii
Necessities
(yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee Do you (male/female)
po angielsku? pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
speak English?
Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po I don’t speak Polish
polsku
polskoo)
Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down
Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Can I smoke here?
Jedno piwo (yedno peevo poh- One beer please
poproszę prosheh)
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
2 dwa dva
3 trzy tshi
10 dziesięć jayshench
General
Airport lotnisko
Train station dworzec pkp
Bus station dworzec pks
Right/left prawo/lewo
One ticket to jeden bilet do
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are
Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms
and the number of actual practicing Catholics is probably closer
to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious
countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has
been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against pagan invasions
and looking to religion for a sense of social and national unity.
When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned
to the Church for solace; during the communist era, underground
resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The
deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source
of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than
cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more
easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm for
religion a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent
processions that occur from time to time and the droves that
flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Wrocław’s
many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Some restaurants
and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities;
this is a practice also used in train stations and most public
conveniences. Keep small change handy. Below we list public
toilets near the city centre.
Public Toilet B-1, ul. Drobnera
Public Toilet A-3, Pl. Solny
Tourist Card
OpenWrocław Tourist Card, www.openwroclaw.pl.
Ambitious tourists intent on getting the most out of their
time and money in Wrocław should consider picking up the
OpenWrocław Tourist Card, which entitles the bearer
to free unlimited travel on public transport, discounts at
hundreds of participating hotels, bars, restaurants, cafes
and more, and a package of free admissions to cultural
institutions and other city attractions. A variety of cards are
available, each tailored to your specific area of interest - be it
culture, entertainment, leisure or all of the above - and all can
be purchased for 24, 48 or 73 hour periods at corresponding
prices. A definite bargain for those with busy itineraries,
the Tourist Card is available at over 120 distribution points
around town. Visit the OpenWrocław website for full details
regarding prices, partners and sales outlets.
Water
Though officially stamped as safe to drink, hypochondriacs
and others with a weak constitution may want to avoid drinking
Polish tap water; indeed, despite it never giving us any
problems, the locals still regularly scold us for drinking from
the tap. The antique plumbing in many buildings can also
affect the water quality, so to play it safe we recommend
you just drink bottled water, which is widely available and
inexpensive. Unless you’re in a restaurant, that is. Tourists
from countries where the right to drink water is a guaranteed
freedom may be surprised to find that water is not complimentary
in Polish restaurants; in fact it’s downright expensive
and comes in a tiny glass that will barely wet your thirst. By
comparison, beer is a much better value as you get more than
twice as much for only a couple złoty more; such is Poland’s
‘drinking problem.’ If you’re still set on drinking water with
your meal, be prepared to declare a preference between
gazowana (carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water).
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Art Galleries
Arttrakt B-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 1/1, tel. (+48)
502 58 19 05, www.arttrakt.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00,
Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
City Gallery (Galeria Miejska) A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza
28, tel. (+48) 71 344 67 20, www.galeriamiejska.
pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Galeria Awangarda B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32,
tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl.QOpen
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Wed
admisson free.
Tkacka Na Jatkach Gallery A-2, ul. Jatki 19/23,
tel. (+48) 71 344 38 78, www.galeria.md4.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
WRO Art Centre B-4, ul. Widok 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 32
40, www.wrocenter.pl. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00
- 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.
Cinemas
Cinema City Korona ul. Krzywoustego 126c (Psie
Pole), tel. (+48) 71 323 60 00, www.cinema-city.pl. Q
Box office open from 30 minutes before the first showtime to
15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 14-29zł.
Helios Magnolia Park E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, tel.
(+48) 71 355 53 55, www.helios.pl.QBox office
open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Tickets
15-26zł.
Helios Nowe Horyzonty A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego
19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.heliosnh.pl.
Lower Silesian Film Centre (Dolnośląskie Centrum
Filmowe) A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 64a, tel. (+48)
71 793 79 00, www.dcf.wroclaw.pl.QBox office open
depending on repertoire. Tickets 8-23zł.
Cultural Centres
Biuro Festiwalowe Impart 2016 D-3, ul. Mazowiecka
17, tel. (+48) 71 341 94 32, www.impart.art.pl.
Q Box office open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun open 2 hours
before events.
Wrocław Center for Jewish Culture and Education
(Centrum Kultury i Edukacji Żydowskiej Fundacji
Bente Kahan) E-4, The White Stork Synagogue, ul.
Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23, www.fbk.org.
pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. From December open
10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat Admission free
for the exhibition.
Opera Stages
Academy of Music (Akademia Muzyczna) E-4,
Pl. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 71 355 55 43, www.
amuz.wroc.pl.QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission free for
all concerts.
Wrocław Opera (Opera Wrocławska) A-4, ul.
Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 57 79, www.opera.
wroclaw.pl.Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 -
17:00. Tickets 10-300zł.
Philharmonic
Wrocław Philharmonic (Filharmonia Wrocławska)
E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 19, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.
filharmonia.wroclaw.pl.Q Box office open 11:00 - 15:00,
15:30 - 18:00, Sun one hour before performance. Tickets
10-80zł.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
September - December 2012
17

18 CULTURE & EVENTS
Avant Art Festival
02.10 Tuesday - 07.10 Sunday
Avant Art Festival
http://avantart.pl/. The Avant Art Festival is an
international presentation of experimental and
avant garde art packed with original and unique
cultural phenomena. Prepare to have all your preconceptions
blown away and get ready to explore
new genres. This will be 5th edition of the Avant
Art Festival, this time under the subtitle ‘Germany’,
the first wide-ranging presentation of that region’s
culture in Poland. However the performers are from
all over the world and the line-up list is as long as
you could hope for. Established in 1978, DAF are
the real German legend deal. The inspiration for
future synthpop artists, without them the style
EBM, joining industrial music with punk, would never
have been created, which is nice. Another star will
be Bonaparte. This band from Berlin’s musical
style is hard to categorise, but electro-rock-punkrave
manipulation doesn’t seem too wide of the
mark. The magnificently monickered Defibrillator
& Peter Brontzmann are masters in the world of
free jazz and improvised music. He will perform
with the band using a trombone to perform electronic
music...sounds interesting... sounds great...
Mmmm. Knuckleduster , you couldn’t make these
names up - it just gets better, are from Germany
and Canada. They found their style and renewed
post-rock by adding installations and improvisation;
their music joins ethnic sounds with electronic
music. Meanwhile the Moritz Von Oswald Trio, I’m
saying nothing, appeared early on the electro scene
of the 90s and they join percussion, synthesizers
and improvisation to show a new side of electro.
For the first time ever there will be a performance
by two recording studios: Raster-Noton, home of
Kangding Ray, Byetone and Frank Bretschneider,
as well as Project:Mooncircle. Also for the first time
Avant Art Film presents German films about music.
Last but not least we shouldn’t forget the debates,
workshops, performances, and the presentation of
the festival abroad: this year in Berlin and Cologne.
From its foundation the Avant Art Festival has been a
celebration of artistic electicism where experiments
in art have no limits, the quality of creation being the
only thing that matters - check it out. Q Ticket prices
were undecided at the moment. Please check our
website for updates.
Theatre Stages
Capitol Music Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny Capitol)
A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 72, tel. (+48) 71 789 04 52, www.
teatr-capitol.pl.QBox office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun one
hour before performance. Tickets 13-49zł.
Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) I-4, ul. Wystawowa
1, tel. (+48) 71 347 72 00, www.halastulecia.pl.Q Tickets
for events available at Centennial Hall box office (Open
10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:30. From November open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00). Tickets depending
on repertoire.
Contemporary Theatre (Wrocławski Teatr
Współczesny) A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 12, tel. (+48) 71
358 89 22, www.wteatrw.pl.QBox office open 12:00 -
19:00. Sun open 2 hours before performance. Closed Mon.
Tickets 20-32zł.
Puppet Theatre (Teatr Lalek) A-4, Pl. Teatralny 4,
tel. (+48) 71 335 49 00, www.teatrlalek.wroclaw.pl.Q
Box office open 09:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun two
hours before performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-30zł.
Information & Tickets
Lower Silesian Information Centre
(Dolnośląskie Centrum Informacji Kulturalnej)
A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
www.dcik.pl. Come here for complete information on
what`s happening in Wrocław and the surrounding area.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Concerts
16.11 Friday
Ethno Jazz Festival: Diana Krall
Orbita Hall, ul. Wejherowska 34. This Canadian jazz
singer and pianist, wife of Elvis Costello if you’re interested
in domestic matters, has won 5 Grammies and performed
with Ray Charles, Tony Bennett and, er, Celine Dion - two out
of three’s not bad and she seems to have come out of the
experience relatively unscathed. Her music has sometimes
sentimental rhythms connected with energetic instrumental
sounds. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-300zł. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
18.11 Sunday
Seal
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.pl.
Famous all over the world for hits like Kiss From a
Rose, Crazy and Amazing, the last time he gave a concert
in Warsaw the tickets sold out immediately. For this reason
he’ll take in 3 cities on this tour: Gdynia Warsaw and Wrocław,
and will be playing all his greatest hits as well as songs from
his latest album: Soul 2. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets
180-350zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek
50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
30.11 Friday
St Andrew’s Concert - Thomas Anders and
Modern Talking Band
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. No plans for St.
Andrew’s day? Then here’s something for you. Provided you
are not sick to the back teeth of hearing “You’re my heart
you’re my soul”, you can take a trip down musical memory
lane. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 60-110zł. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00
- 21:00, 11:00 - 21:00).
18.12 Tuesday
GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.pl.
The band comes again to Poland, this time with
programme “In the Miller Mood” featuring the classics of
Glenn Miller, as well as the songs of Count Basie, Harry James
and Ray Anthony. They will visit 4 cities here, a small part of
the 300 concerts a year they give which makes them most
polular swing band in the world. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 115-180zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik,
Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
19.12 Wednesday
Smokie with Symphonic Orchestra
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.pl.
Bizarrely popular in Poland this tour will take in
9 cities. Together for 40 years, the one that gets everyone
going here is “Living next door to Alice”. We can only marvel
at the prospect of that and other favourites, name one - I
dare you, being given the symphonic treatment. Q Event
starts at 19:00. Tickets 110-170zł. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
Up-to-date events
only at:
www.inyourpocket.com
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
National Museum
National Museum
(Muzeum Narodowe)
D-3, Pl. Powstańców
Warszawy 5, tel. (+48)
71 372 51 50, www.
mn.wroclaw.pl. Paintings,
sculptures, engravings,
photographs and
handicrafts are exhibited in a Dutch Neo-Renaissance
building from the 19th century. Both permanent and temporary
exhibitions show precious items from the Middle
Ages to the present day from Lower Silesia, Poland and
Europe.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue (except last Tue of each month). From October
open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue (except last Tue of each month). Admission 15/10zł.
Groups over 10 people 5zł per person, Sat free. Entry
free with a ticket to the nearby Racławice Panorama.
European Art of the 15th - Early 20th
Prepare to come and see
work by Pieter Brueghel the
Younger, Agnolo Bronzino,
Cosimo Rosselli, Raphael’s
father Giovanni Santi, Lucas
Cranach as well as Wassily
Kandinsky. These and other
masters of European art
will be featured at the newlyarranged
permanent gallery
and the show entitled European
Art of the 14th - Early
20th century which will re-open at the National Museum
in Wrocław after an absence of 20 years. Altogether, the
new permanent gallery will feature some 300 objects of
fine and decorative arts. The story of European art in the
early modern and modern era will be traced and will start
with ‘the juxtaposition of the Italian and Northern Renaissance,
particularly their respective approaches to religious
themes’. Also explored will be the influence of major social
changes in the 16th century combined with the ideas of
humanism and the emerging Reformation. Next will be
the Golden Age of Dutch and Italian painting and the show
closes with a focus on the the early modern era and an
exquisite selection of 18th century artists connected with
the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna.
03.09 Monday - 30.09 Sunday
Ryszard Kapuściński - Twilight of Empire
If you don’t know the work of Poland’s most famous, and
sadly departed, journalist, you should do, and this could be a
good place to start. Over 40 photos by Ryszard Kapuściński
will be prsented charting his journeys through old soviet
Russia. Come and see photos of the August Coup as well
as other aspects of the empire, complete with pictures of
houses and churches, taken between 1989 and 1991.
10.09 Monday - 30.09 Sunday
Dogs in the Museum
This show has collected together over 200 ceramic
dog figures. They come from the private collection of
museum curator Magdalena Szafkowska, a specialist
in department of XIX, XXth century graphics. (I’d like to
apologise in advance for even thinking of typing that
‘You’d be barking mad to miss it’.)
September - December 2012
19

20 CULTURE & EVENTS
Exhibitions
14.09 Friday - 11.11 Sunday
Incredible everyday life. Streets and Squares
of Wrocław on old postcards - from Mariusz
Kotkowski collection
H-5, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Traugutta 111/113,
tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www.muzeumetnograficzne.
pl. Compare and contrast is the name of the game here. 120
old postcards will be shown next to 120 modern postcards,
all of the same sites. The exhibition will be completed with
advertising objects from the city’s pre-war restaurants. Q
Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
5/3zł. Groups over 10 people 2zł per person, Sat free.
15.10 Monday - 01.12 Saturday
Eugeniusz Geppert - retrospective exhibition
D-3, National Museum, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel.
(+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mn.wroclaw.pl. 40 paintings
and 20 drawings from one of the best painters connected with
Wrocław are on display here. The exhibition has been prepared by
the Academy of Fine Art in Wrocław, whose patron Geppert is. Q
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except
last Tue of each month). From October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except last Tue of each month).
Admission 15/10zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł per person, Sat
free. Entry free with a ticket to the nearby Racławice Panorama.
Festivals
13.11 Tuesday - 18.11 Sunday
American Film Festival 2012
Events take place in various locations. Please check
description for more details., http://www.americanfilmfestival.pl/.
The American Film Festival (AFF) will give Polish
audiences the chance to meet contemporary art house American
cinema in the context of its wider culture and themes. There
will be premieres, seminars, lectures as well as discussions on
social, political and cultural issues. To sum up the festival is an
unmissable chance to rediscover the magic of classic American
cinematography as well as see what’s at the cutting edge. One
special event is sure to be a project with brilliant guitarist Bill Frisell
and his 5-piece band performing music to “The Great Flood” by
Bill Morrison. The full schedule will only be known in October, but
some of the films you will have a chance to see include: “Sun don’t
shine” by Amy Seimetz; a crime drama about people running
across America in a car. “Now, Forager: A film about love and fungi”
which had its premiere in Rotterdam, (the title is the obscurist
I’ve ever heard - it refers to the 40s Bette Davis romancer Now
Voyager! - splendid stuff - we love a good pun at IYP). “Not Waving
but Drowning” will also have its Polish premiere during the festival.
Q Tickets 15-18zł. Passes 150zł. Available from 8th October at
www.americanfilmfestival.pl and before the events.
17.11 Saturday
One Love Sound Fest 2012
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.onelove.pl.
The biggest indoor reggae festival in Poland takes place in the
Centennial Hall; it can hold 12,000 fans when chokka. This
will be the 9th time out and, judging by previous successes,
a must for fans of reggae, ragga, hip hop and dancehall. The
headline act this year must be the legendary Max Romeo,
Jamaica’s finest was first heard on John Peel in the mid 70s
and is still going. Also up will be Mr. Vegas, from Jamaica too,
Overproof Soundsystem from Great Britain and Herbalize It
from Holland, what could they be referring too? Q Event starts
at 16:00. Tickets 69-170zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, 11:00 - 21:00).
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Jesse Cook
23.09 Sunday
Jesse Cook - The Blue Guitar
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.gitara.
wroclaw.pl. Jesse Cook is, along with the likes of Paco
de Lucia, seen as one of the finest flamenco guitarists
around. Coming from Canada, he plays rumba, flamenco
and funk jazz, which must warm the cold nights up a bit.
He has supported such stars as Ray Charles, Diana
Krall and his music has been used for the TV serial Sex
in the City. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 48-180zł.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3
(Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00).
Misc. Events
23.11 Friday - 23.12 Sunday
Christmas Fair
A-3, Rynek, www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.com.
Europe’s most beautiful Christmas bazaars. Beside
local stalls, there will be merchants from Germany and
Austria, and a lot more on top of that. The diversity
includes The Fairytale Forest. The first of its kind in
Poland, amongst the 300 spruces placed on the Rynek
kids will be able to meet characters from fairy tales.
The stalls will be selling Christmas tree decorations,
lamps and other Christmas craft as well as silver and
amber jewellery, leather products, handmade glass
lamps, Christmas tablecloths, aromatic candles and
a whole lot of other unusual bits and bobs. Q Open
10:00 - 21:00. Admission free.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
Wroclaw Guitar Festival
10.10 Wednesday - 08.11 Thursday
Wrocław Guitar Festival 2012
tel. (+48) 71 718
29 17, www.gitara.
wroclaw.pl. The
Wroclaw Guitar Festival
is a wide ranging
event, no guitar style
is ignored and the
fans are numerous.
The musicians play on
everything from lutes
and classical guitars
to the latest gizmos.
There’s thundering
flamenco, Latin music
for lovers and jazz.
However, the festival is
not only concerts, there
will be master classes
and workshops as well as presentations of what’s new
on the music market. As always the list of artists is
impressive - here are some of the events
10.10 Wednesday
19:00 Ultra High Flamenco
Wrocław Philharmonic, E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 19
This young band from Spain joins jazz with instrumental
flamenco
17.10 Wednesday
19:00 Ana Vidovic
Wrocław Philharmonic, E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 19
A diva of classical guitar from Croatia, be prepared to be
moved by the sensitivity of her music
27.10 Saturday
19:00 Christian Haimel
Stara Giełda, F-4, Pl. Solny 16
More creative and sensitive classical guitar
28.10 Sunday
18:00 Zehnder - Preisig Duo
White Stork Synagogue, D-3, ul. Włodkowica 7
A duet from Switzerland combining singing with the
sounds of violin, a new form of chamber music, if
you will.
03.11 Saturday
19:00 John McLaughlin & The 4th Dimension
Hala Orbita, ul. Wejherowska 34
The new project of jazz guitar master John McLaughlin
gathers musicians of various music styles, come and
find a mix of Western and Eastern roots.;
08.11 Thursday
19:00 Tommy Emmanuel
Wrocław Congress Centre, L-4, ul. Wystawowa 1
The master of fingerstyle has the unique title of “Certified
Guitar Player”, from whom we don’t know. However,
he is self-taught and has 20 albums to his name, no
slouch then.
QTickets 15-190zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik, Rynek 50 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 -
21:00).
September - December 2012
21

22 HOTELS
Accommodation at a Glance
SPLURGE: The most expensive suite in town remains
that of the Monopol; monied megalomaniacs will
enjoy striding the balcony of room 113, which was built
especially for Hitler to address the crowds below in 1937.
The Radisson remains a top choice, not least for its
dining options, while for more custom care spread out
in the luxury boutique suites of the Granary.
CHEAP: In Wrocław, cheap never has to be a byword for
poor quality. A stay at Mleczarnia is highly recommended,
while Boogie and Avantgarde remain student faves. If
you want something more private and upscale, Cilantro
Bed & Breakfast offers very high standards at shockingly
affordable prices.
LADS: The Campanile is a decent option: large, wellpriced
and happy to except groups; likewise the Scandic
and Novotel. A great location and gadgets galore can be
found at PURO, but if the budget is tight and location is
key you can’t do better than The One Hostel.
COUPLES: Europeum is a class choice at a price that
won’t break the bank, while Art Hotel is a plush boutique
full of personal touches. If you’re really trying to impress,
check out the personalised service of the Granary or the
city’s signature hotel - the Monopol, with on-site spa,
terrace wine bar and excellent restaurant.
FAMILIES: An apartment should be your first choice
and Leopart and Wrocław Capital Apartments have
a fine selection. Note that Mleczarnia is also happy to
accommodate families and even pets in their private rooms.
Polish Name Days (Imieniny)
In Poland, name days (imieniny) are widely celebrated
and have traditionally been given a greater importance
than birthday celebrations, particularly as one gets on
in years. Printed in every local calendar, these name
days represent the feast days of Catholic saints. Every
day of the year is assigned two saints – one male, one
female – and chances are if you share a name with a
saint (as almost all Poles do), you too have a name day.
Some names are even repeated more than once in a
calendar year, in which case you celebrate the first name
day after your birthday.
Name Day celebrations in Poland are social events,
traditionally involving the gathering of friends and family
at the celebrant’s home or in the bar of their choice.
Differing slightly from western birthday celebrations in
which the celebrant is often seen as a ‘guest of honour’
and might expect to be bought drinks all night, in name
day gatherings the celebrant traditionally plays the role of
host, buying drinks for friends and ensuring that guests
are taken care of. In return, guests should bring small gifts
(typically chocolate, flowers or vodka) as you would on
someone’s birthday. The Polish birthday song ‘Sto Lat’ (A
Hundred Years) is sung, and its mindless simplicity might
be tempting for foreigners to criticise until they reflect on
just how dreadful the English happy birthday song actually
is. Name Days are so important to Polish culture that they
are prominently displayed in most of the country’s trams
and buses, thereby ensuring that you know who you should
be buying flowers for that day; information that you’ll find
less readily available on public transport is the name of
the line or the destination of its next stop.
No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to
entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from 5-star
presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique b&b’s to
boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business suites.
The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms (well over
3,500), with several new options opening each year. As
much as we’d like to, we simply can’t list all of them in our
printed guide, however you can find a more comprehensive
list of Wrocław’s accommodation options on our website
and mobile application.
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these
days due to online booking discounts, special offers and
other price variations, we no longer find it particularly
instructive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point,
anyone who uses the Hotel Calculator function on our
website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - will find a better
rate than the official prices we once printed; as such, we
encourage you to do just that (and you can thank us later).
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a
combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities,
and in our print guide we only list those lodgings that we most
recommend to tourists.
Cream of the Crop
Monopol (Hotele Likus) A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej
2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, www.monopolwroclaw.
hotel.com.pl. First opened in 1892, the neo-Baroque
Monopol Hotel became one of Wrocław’s most fabled and
recognisable landmarks thanks to a guest list including Greta
Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Adolf Hitler and Pablo Picasso, as
well as popular appearances in film and television. After a
lengthy renovation courtesy of the acclaimed Likus hotel
group, the Monopol has a full five stars pinned on its epaulets.
121 rooms come furnished with turn-of-the century antiques,
including 14 exquisite suites. In addition to top business
facilities, Monopol is home to one of the most enticing spa
and wellness centres in Wrocław (see Leisure); add to the
package terrace and rooftop bars and restaurants above exclusive
boutique retail spaces and this legend is alive and living
well. Are you? Q121 rooms (107 singles, 107 doubles, 14
suites). PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh
Platinum Palace ul. Powstańców Śląskich 204
(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 324 99 00, www.platinumpalace.
pl. Wroclaw’s five-star hotel scene gets an almighty kick in the
rear. Built in 1906, this was once the finest private house in
the city. Having served for a time as the Wroclaw Academy of
Music it has been lovingly restored and converted with both
taste and style into a breathtaking hotel. While the exterior
remains classical, the interiors (the rooms especially) are
modern, bold and even futuristic. It might cost a fortune to
stay here but it’s worth every penny. Located 4km south of the
market square but well-connected by tram, hop on numbers 2,
6, 7 or 17 getting off at the ‘Orla’ or ‘Krzyki’ stops and you’re
only a short walk away. Q46 rooms (41 singles, 41 doubles,
5 suites). PTHA6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 375
00 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. Overlooking
a quiet park rooms come with clean, light colours, heated
bathroom floors and a telephone next to the toilet. Stay in
the business rooms and you’ll have newspapers delivered to
your door and dressing gown and slippers to pad around in.
Facilities include a gym, fantastic restaurant and Sqwiggles
Bar - where expert bartenders mix lethal cocktails for off-duty
businessmen. Q162 rooms (13 singles, 144 doubles, 5 apartments).
PTJHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Sofitel Wrocław Old Town A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67,
tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www.sofitel-wroclaw.com.
Outstanding quality inside a modern glass marvel. Ultramodern
fittings include Bang & Olufsen sound systems,
marble bathrooms, jacuzzis and dressing gowns. Le Louis
De-Or Bar and the Pan Tadeusz and Lounge restaurants are
attached to an impressive atrium. Q205 rooms (189 singles,
173 doubles, 15 apartments). PTJHARUFG
KDwW hhhhh
The Granary La Suite Hotel Wroclaw City Center
B-4, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www.
thegranaryhotel.com. A shell of its former self after
Festung Breslau, this historic 16th century brewery building
has been reconstructed and conceived as a city centre
luxury boutique hotel - the only one of its kind in Wrocław
and quickly earning a spot in the ‘Small Luxury Hotels of the
World’ collection. Consisting of 47 spatially unique suites
which adapt to the building’s tapering roof letting in lots of
light, each comes with separate dining, living and sleeping
zones, custom-designed furniture, wireless internet and
satellite TV, while the upper floor duplex suites also come
with fully equipped kitchenettes. Additional services include
the restaurant, spa, fitness centre and business facilities,
as well as valet parking, chauffeur and room services. An
experience you’re unlikely to forget with a wow factor of five,
everything at The Granary is tailored to your needs, and the
expectation is that you’re super-needy; so go ahead and
get a foot rub while they put grapes in your mouth. You’re
on vacation, dammit. Q47 rooms (40 singles, 40 doubles,
7 apartments). PTHAR6UFGKDwW
hhhhh
Upmarket
Art Hotel A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 78
77 100, www.arthotel.pl. A plush boutique hotel found
on one of Wrocław’s most engaging streets. Modern
rooms come with personally controlled air-conditioning,
mini-bar and satellite TV, and feature a chic upmarket
aesthetic. Vaulted cellars dating from medieval times
house the hotel restaurant. Q80 rooms (18 singles, 56
doubles, 5 suites, 1 apartment). PTJHAR6U
FLGKW hhhh
Best Western Prima A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 16-19, tel.
(+48) 71 782 55 55, www.bestwestern-prima.pl. A modern
hotel occupying a quiet corner of the Old Town. Striking a
neat balance between business and pleasure Best Western
offers top class conference facilities, fitness studio and a
quality onsite restaurant. A glass lift whisks guests to smart
rooms furnished with floral touches. Q79 rooms (78 singles,
66 doubles, 1 apartment). PTJHA6UFLG
KDW hhhh
Dwór Polski A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71
372 34 15, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Don’t let the
address fool you, this historical locale in the style of a Polish
manor house is located right across from the Town Hall on
Worcław’s market square. A fabulous ensemble of olde-world
sophistication with touches of modernity, this 16th-century
building provides comfortable rooms throughout featuring
satellite television, free wireless, minibars and renovated
bathrooms. The apartment is wonderful indeed, with plenty
of fancy trimmings and a private entrance for the discreet
guest. Add-ons are minimal, but there’s a feast of traditional
bars and restaurants throughout the building representing
every aspect of Polish food, drink and hospitality. Q28 rooms
(24 singles, 22 doubles, 4 apartments). THA6G
KDW hhhh
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
Radisson Blu Hotel
Purkyniego 10,
50-156 Wrocław, Poland
tel: +48 71 375 00 00
fax +48 71 375 00 10
reservations.wroclaw@radissonblu.com
www.radissonblu.com
September - December 2012
23

24 HOTELS
Karl Denke, the Cannibal of Ziębice
Born August 12th 1870 in an unknown Lower Silesian
village, not much of Karl Denke’s early life has been recorded
aside from the fact that he was a terrible student
and ran away from home at age 12. 25 years old when
his father died, Karl used the inheritance to buy a farm
and garden of his own in the small town of Münsterberg
- today known as Ziębice - about 60km south of Wrocław.
In Münsterberg, Karl was known as a generous, caring
and devout local citizen, even referred to by some as
‘Vater Denke’ or Father Denke. He carried the cross at
Evangelist funerals and played the organ during church
services. Despite living a lower middle-class lifestyle,
he helped beggars and travellers, giving them a place
to stay if they were in need. He didn’t drink alcohol and
he wasn’t known to have relationships with women.
He was a rather rubbish farmer however, and he soon
swapped his farm for a two-story townhouse with a shed.
Like many in Germany after WWI, he lost his savings
due to rampant inflation and was forced to also sell the
house, though he continued to rent an apartment in the
building on the ground floor. Well-liked and respected
around town, Denke could be regularly seen selling
suspenders, belts, shoelaces and other leather goods
in the local market and sometimes even door to door. He
also frequently travelled to Breslau (now Wrocław), where
he was licensed by the Butchers Guild to sell pork in the
city’s markets - all of it boneless, pickled and in jars. It
was a time of crisis and his goods were popular, allowing
him to maintain a decent enough living.
By now you can probably guess where this is going.
Denke’s double life unraveled quickly when on December
21st, 1924 a vagrant appeared at the Münsterberg police
station covered in blood, claiming he had barely escaped
from Father Denke’s apartment with his life. Police were
loath to believe the unknown beggar, but a brief medical
examination revealed that he had sustained a serious
head wound, corroborating his story that he had been
attacked with an axe. Police went to question Denke, who
explained that he had indeed attacked the vagrant as the
man was attempting to rob him after receiving a handout.
Denke was taken to the police station and put in a holding
cell for the night, only to be found dead when an officer
went to look in on him later that same night. He had hung
himself with a small handkerchief.
It was not until the corpse had been turned over to
relatives and the police went to Denke’s apartment to
secure his belongings on Christmas Eve that the people
of Münsterberg discovered exactly what kind of man had
been living among them. What authorities discovered
inside was essentially a meat processing shop that lab
tests would later confirm was full of human remains,
including hundreds of bones, stretched and dehydrated
human skin, tubs of fat, jars of meat pickling in brine,
and a closet full of blood-stained clothing, as well as the
tools for the work, including equipment for making soap.
Dozens of documents and identification papers were
also found, including Denke’s own extensive ledgers
detailing his work, from which authorities were able
to positively identify the names of 20 victims – most
of them recently released from prisons and hospitals.
Based on all the evidence found in Denke’s apartment,
it is believed that the formerly high-standing citizen was
actually responsible for murdering, dismembering, pickling
and processing more than 40 people in a rather short
span of 3-4 years. Needless to say, despite the holiday,
there was a dip in pork sales in Breslau that Christmas.
Hotel Jana Pawła II C-2, ul. Św. Idziego 2, tel. (+48)
71 327 14 00, www.hotel-jp2.pl. This high-standard
hotel was built to honour the late Pope’s second visit to
Wrocław, and has since played host to numerous cardinals
and arch-bishops, diplomats and dignitaries, including bestselling
writer and historian Norman Davies, as well as the
political brothers Jarosław and the late Lech Kaczyński.
Nevermind the gaudy entrance, this hotel is exceedingly
tasteful once inside, including an absolutely stunning lobby,
some very stately conference facilities, and a range of
comfortable rooms, suites and apartments that feature
outstanding views of Ostrów Tumski’s ancient architectural
monuments and the large botanical gardens. Fittingly,
the building even has its own chapel with a 17th century
painting of the Virgin Mary, and the terrace restaurant is
perhaps the best place to eat in the district. Q86 rooms
(86 singles, 63 doubles, 4 apartments). PTHAR
ULGKDW hhhh
Hotel Orbis Wrocław E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich
7, tel. (+48) 71 361 46 51, www.orbis.pl. A tall hotel
with equally high standards. Britain’s Prince Andrew stayed
here a few years back, and no doubt enjoyed the charming
service and hotel swimming pool. Rooms come with
air-conditioning, mini-bar and pay TV with plenty of saucy
channels to pick from. Q294 rooms (41 singles, 248
doubles, 5 apartments). PTHAR6UFLG
KDCW hhhh
HP Park Plaza B-1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48)
71 320 84 00, www.hotelepark.pl. A huge glass and
marble affair, the HP Park Plaza sits on the banks of the
Odra River and proves an excellent conference venue.
Well appointed rooms feature wood panelling, plastic
flowers and huge windows to savour the riverside views.
Q177 rooms (156 singles, 156 doubles, 19 suites, 2
apartments). POTHAR6UGKDwW
hhhh
Mercure Panorama C-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel.
(+48) 71 323 27 00, www.mercure.com. Large, colourful
rooms come equipped with bathtubs, while the apartments
feature floor to ceiling windows. Attached to the corner of
a shopping centre, Mercure is fiercely favoured by the business
community. Top marks. Q151 rooms (144 singles, 144
doubles, 7 apartments). PTJHA6UGKwW
hhhh
Park Hotel Diament Wrocław ul. Muchoborska
10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735 03 50, www.
hotelediament.pl. One of the region’s best accommodation
chains, this reliable stalwart has recently made
the grade to four-star status. A more business-minded
model, Wrocław’s Diament has seven climate-controlled
conference rooms with free wifi and movable walls, allowing
creative company execs some interesting options
for ‘team-building’ exercises. Tidy, handsome rooms with
flat-screen satellite TV and wifi, and a strikingly modern
restaurant and lobby round out this revelatory effort ten
minutes from the Old Town and airport. Q132 rooms
(127 singles, 115 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments).
PTHA6UFGKW hhhh
PURO Hotel Wrocław E-4, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel.
(+48) 71 772 51 00, www.purohotel.pl. Awash in
amenities and technology, if ever there was a hotel
worthy of the descriptor ‘techno-chic,’ this is it. Free
iPads are available in the lobby, and the rooms, while
small, offer free internet and phones (even international
calls), plus an enormous LCD screen featuring USB
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
• 110 air conditioned rooms
• guarded parking
• restaurant and bar
• conference rooms
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
ul. Jagiełły 7, 50-201 Wrocław, tel. +48 71 326 78 00, fax +48 71 326 78 01
e-mail: wroclaw@campanile.com.pl, www.campanile.com.pl
ports and international satellite cable, with the ability
to interface with the internet and gaming systems.
There is even a standard control panel allowing you
to adjust everything from the lights to room humidity
and temperature. The lobby and café share the same
smart and modern décor as the rooms and the prices
are quite competitive considering its central location
and techno perks. Book a couple of weeks in advance
during peak seasons and weekends. Q102 rooms (102
singles, 97 doubles). PTHAR6ULGKW
hhh
Qubus Hotel Wrocław B-3, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny
2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel.
com. One of our favourite hotels in the city and one
that offers quality from top to bottom - literally. In the
basement, an excellent swimming pool, on the top
floor a vast presidential suite featuring stripped wood
floors, kitchen and lounge and a terrace overlooking
the church opposite. Nothing less than an excellent
deal. Q83 rooms (83 singles, 62 doubles, 3 apartments).
PTJHAR6UFGKDCW
hhhh
Scandic Wrocław A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57,
tel. (+48) 71 787 00 00, www.scandichotels.com.
Immaculate rooms a short walk from the train station.
All the hallmarks of the top-class chain are in evidence,
including heated bathroom floors, sparkling rooms and
extras like digital TV and mini-bars in the rooms, plus free
bikes and Nordic walking sticks for guests. Downstairs
pretty receptionists greet guests, while the business
facilities are second to none and there’s now a children’s
playroom. Q164 rooms (164 singles, 164 doubles).
PTHA6UFGKDwW hhhh
The Maluch
Like the Czech Škoda and
the East German Trabant,
the Polish Maluch has
served several purposes
during its lifetime; a Godsend
for families behind
the Iron Curtain, source of
amusement for smirking
© Christophe Gruszka
foreigners and now, as a
cult icon for nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports
have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously
delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels
is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in Bielsko-Biała and
Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license
with its official title being the ‘Polish Fiat 126p’. Its diminutive
size earned it the moniker of ‘Maluch’ (Little One), a name so
widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened
the brand in 1997. When first produced in June 1973 it was
priced at 69,000zł (approximately three times the average
annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Poland,
despite being the size of a small refrigerator. Throughout
communist times the car could only be purchased by
joining a lengthy waiting list, though diligent workers would
often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to
jump the queue. Though production came to a halt in 2000,
the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a remarkable
staying power, and you’ll still find scores of them coughing
smoke as they zip around Polish cities. Today a used Maluch
retails for about 300-500zł, so there’s little stopping you
from becoming a proud owner yourself.
September - December 2012
25

26 HOTELS
Mid-range
Campanile Wrocław Stare Miasto A-1, ul.
Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www.campanile.
com.pl. Great value. Rooms are large, smart and spacious,
and come decorated in the Campanile colours of
green and yellow with chequered duvets and curtains,
and creature comforts like satellite TV and air-con. Just
north of the centre, the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski are
within easy walking distance. Q110 rooms (109 singles,
109 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHA6UGKW
hh
Centrum Dikul A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 17-19, tel.
(+48) 71 796 77 66, www.dikul.pl. Occupying a
wonderfully restored Secession building opposite the
Archaeology and Military museums, this comfortable
hotel offers ample opportunities for pampering. Don’t
let the façade fool you: inside it’s all contemporary
moods, from the spacious common areas to the big
doubles and generous single rooms you’ll be happy to
return to after a hectic day. Every room - and we mean
every room - is handicap-friendly: a first for Poland, we
think. Q31 rooms (31 singles, 9 doubles). PTHA
RUGW hhh
Duet A-3, ul. Św Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785
51 00, www.hotelduet.pl. For what you pay, you get a
surprising amount of space here. Really. Terrific beds (and
with the choice of twins or doubles you can be guaranteed
that your double bed is a double bed, not two singles
pushed together), great bathrooms and a location at the
edge of the Old Town. The buffet breakfast is one of the
best in the city, and when you add in the free wifi and
friendly, multi-lingual service we think you’re on to a winner.
Q39 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles, 4 apartments).
PTHA6UKW hhh
Europejski B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71
772 10 00, www.silfor.pl. You may remember this
place as a completely mediocre hotel with everything
from carpets to curtains done up in a 1960s shade of
chocolate brown; a tasty colour for cake, rather revolting
used anywhere else. Well now the station-side monolith
has gone orange and we can tell you you’ll have had
quite enough of it as well after a three-day stay. That
said, the fittings are all new and the amenities make for
the same satisfactory stay you would have in any other
identikit three star - neither memorable nor regrettable.
Q96 rooms (17 singles, 67 doubles, 12 apartments).
PTHAR6ULGKW hhh
Europeum A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel.
(+48) 71 371 45 00, www.europeum.pl. Just across
the road from the Old Town you’ll find this super modern
and super clean hotel behind a chic glass fronted building.
Modern rooms are accessed with swipe cards and come
with climate control, cable TV, refrigerator and fully soundproofed
windows - the perfect solution to its busy central
location. Both the hotel and adjoining restaurant (Brasserie
27 - see restaurants) look way above their class, representing
amazing value for money. Elegant without ever being kitsch.
Q38 rooms (38 singles, 33 doubles). PTHARUF
GKDwW hhh
Marshal B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 104/Gwarna 23,
tel. (+48) 71 733 44 33, www.hotelmarshal.pl.
Freshly scrubbed and spotlessly clean across from
Wrocław’s main train station, you can’t beat the location
which features magnificent views of the city’s grand
transportation complex. A chic mirrored tunnel funnels
you into the marble lobby, which hints at the luxury
awaiting inside the rooms themselves - most of which
are larger than any hotel room we’ve ever slept in; in
fact, some are large enough for families of four. Q33
rooms (33 singles, 32 doubles, 10 triples, 10 quads).
HA6UGW hhh
Novotel ul. Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71
339 80 51, www.accorhotels.com. This squat 60s
structure surrounded by flagpoles and conifers hides good
value accommodation on the fringes of Wrocław. Subject
of a recent rehab, Wrocław’s Novotel now includes 34
deluxe rooms and a brand-new lobby. All the standards
of this well-trusted brand have been followed if not
exceeded here, so you can expect a chirpy multi-lingual
staff, comfortable rooms and plenty of business travellers
and tourist groups. Though the location 6km south
of the Old Town may not seem ideal to those without a
car, you can still get there by trams 9 and 16, getting off
at the last stop. Q145 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles).
PTHA6UGKW hhh
Patio A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71
375 04 00, www.hotelpatio.pl. One of the city’s
better accommodation options, Patio is a sumptuous
hotel in a top location only minutes from the market
square. Centred around a modern yet elegant atrium,
the individually furnished rooms have been refurbished
for maximum comfort, with high-speed internet, state
of the art televisions, luxuriously decorated bathrooms,
deep carpets and comfy armchairs. The high standards
of service, decor and comfort also extend to the downstairs
restaurant, which is one of the best around, with
unbeatable lunchtime prices. Q51 rooms (42 singles,
20 doubles, 8 apartments). PTJHAR6GK
hhh
Polonia A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343
10 21, www.poloniawroclaw.pl. Though not looking
quite as plush as it did as the star of hundreds of 1930s
postcards, the Polonia has recently been restored to
3-star status and continues to offer ordinary, but big
rooms for a fair price. Bathrooms are clean and relatively
modern, though almost all have showers and not
baths. For an affordable sleep around the station this
is a good option. Q107 rooms (28 singles, 79 doubles).
OTA6ULKW hhh
Quality System Hotel Wrocław H-1, Al. Kromera
16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.hotelsystem.
pl. Clean cream colours lend a sharp modern look to
the System and all rooms come equipped with their
own PC and flatscreen TV. This is a real favourite with
the corporate crowd though the cosmopolitan bar and
wellness centre - complete with swimming pool - mean
there’s plenty to occupy yourself with in those postconference
moments. Q107 rooms (100 singles, 77
doubles, 7 apartments). PTHAR6UFG
KDCwW hhh
Tumski C-2, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322
60 88, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. While nothing to
rhapsodise about, Tumski offers pleasant rooms staring
across the Oder and new fixtures and fittings. The chief
conference room, ‘The Black Hall’, on the other hand
deviates from all norms; raise your eyebrows at beamed
ceilings, faux chandeliers and parquet floors. Q57
rooms (14 singles, 38 doubles, 3 triples, 1 apartment).
TJHA6UGKW hhh
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

28 HOTELS
Budget
Akira Bed & Breakfast F-2, Pl. Strzelecki 28, tel.
(+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. A thoroughly
adequate log-sawing option just north of Wrocław’s centre,
Akira offers rooms for one, two or three people at prices
fairly comparable to a private room in a hostel. The facade
of the century old building sadly outshines the interior of the
small, unmemorable rooms, but each is equipped with its
own bathroom, TV, internet, bed, pillow and roof under which
you’ve enough space to stretch vertically and horizontally:
honestly, what more do you need? Breakfast buffet? There’s
that too. Q21 rooms (20 singles, 17 doubles, 3 triples).
AR6UGW
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast A-1, ul. Pomorska
32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, www.cilantro.
pl. A bit tricky to find, but completely worth the trouble.
On the sixth floor (don’t worry, there’s an elevator) and
offering plenty of privacy and comfort, Cilantro’s bright,
modern and spacious rooms all feature large double
beds and balconies and are subtly decorated in a way
that puts a smile on your face. The great breakfast
(included in the price) and the small size of the bill you
get at the end of your stay will only make you smile
more. Recommended. Q9 rooms (9 doubles, 3 triples).
TA6LGW
Ibis Budget ul. Wyścigowa 35a (Krzyki), tel. (+48)
71 360 89 91, www.ibisbudget.com. This bland-foryour-buck
budget option will do well to remind you that,
in the end, a hotel is a hotel. Here’s a roof o’er your head
and a comfortable bed. You won’t need to fumigate your
room or hold-your-breath in the bathroom, and you may
even find something worth watching on the satellite TV.
And with the money you’ll save you can afford another
holiday. The out-of-town location infers you’ve a car at
your disposal and if you’ve issue with this perfectly satisfactory
overnight offer, feel free to sleep in the driver’s
seat. Q108 rooms (104 singles, 104 doubles, 4 triples).
PTA6UGW h
Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion ul. Lotnicza 151
(Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84 48, www.etaphotel.
com. When Wrocław’s new football stadium was built for
Euro 2012, this spiffy new hotel popped up alongside of it.
A full four kilometres from the Old Town, yet well-connected
to it, Ibis combines super-cheap prices with trusted quality
and space station style. The slightly cramped rooms look as
though they’ve been designed to coordinate with the latest
iBook, and feature free wireless, snazzy flatscreen satellite
TVs and a breakfast buffet (not included in cost) where you
can grub with the visiting sport heroes shacking here. Overall
an incredible value. Q122 rooms (118 singles, 118 doubles,
4 triples). PTA6UGW h
U Szermierzy C-4, ul. Krasińskiego 30b, tel. (+48)
71 343 49 89, www.noclegwewroclawiu.pl. You may
be tempted to turn around and plunk down your credit card
some place swankier when you first see U Szermierzy’s
courtyard. But to do so would be to miss out on the hotel
experience you’ll find yourself later telling all the folks back
home about. Staffed by fencers (the kind with swords, not
stolen goods - really what could be safer?), this is the local
swashbucklers’ club and you may be expected to be a spectator
during combat training (if you choose not to participate,
that is). As for the rooms, they’re small and the beds are
tiny, but who you gonna complain to? Located smack in the
centre, ring the bell to enter this strange world. Q10 rooms
(3 singles, 4 doubles, 2 triples, 1 quad). GW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Apartments
Apartamenty Przyjazne Lokum A-3, ul. Biskupia
10, tel. (+48) 602 40 74 07, www.przyjaznelokum.pl.
Booking an apartment is not only a much more comfortable
and independent way to approach accommodation,
but if you’re travelling in a group it can be a much better
value. Allow us to demonstrate: Taking their Galeria apartment
as an example, here you’ve got room for 8 people in
a second floor pad mere minutes from the market square
with a fridge, dishwasher, washing machine, stove, oven,
toaster, kettle, iron etc. for only 170-480zł a night, depending
on how many friends you bring along. Put a couple in
each of the three double beds and you’re barely cracking
15 Euro per person, for more freedom and better facilities
than you’ll find elsewhere for twice the money. If you can
find a better option, you better let us know. Q12 rooms
(12 apartments). PTAR6W
Art Apart D-4, ul. Walońska 9-13, tel. (+48) 71 341
07 38, www.artapart.pl. Well-located right on the banks
of the Odra River, these apartments in a brand-new luxury
apartment building are operated by the same team behind
Avantgarde Hostel. Modern and minimal in design with inroom
kitchens, built into the counter electric range-tops,
large beds and spacious bathrooms, this is a great option
for those seeking a bit more space and privacy. Prices are
negotiable and most certainly cheaper than a hotel room of
similar standard. Whether you intend to use the kitchen or
not, that’s a no-brainer in our book. Q12 rooms (12 apartments).
AR6G
Exclusive Apartments B-3, ul. Krawiecka 3/10,
tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www.exclusiveapartments.
pl. As the name suggests, Exclusive is here to provide
designer living to the itinerant traveller. Ranging from 32
to 80 square metres, there are a number of locations
to choose from, each one coming with kitchen facilities,
ironing boards and cable TV. For something utterly sexy
check out the Opium 2 apartment, decked out with
ultra-stylish fittings and cream and caramel colours. If
there’s six of you then don’t look beyond the Mizurii, a
chic three room affair with a corner tub, 32 inch flatscreen
TV and underground parking. And at these prices, it’s
an absolute giveaway. Q55 rooms (55 apartments).
PTAGW
Leoapart B-2, ul. Więzienna 21/36-37, tel. (+48)
71 330 71 21, www.apartmentswroclaw.pl. A
great alternative to a hotel is your own apartment in
the city which gives you extra privacy, space and the
chance to feel like a local during your stay. This easy
to navigate website details upwards of 50 throughout
Wrocław with photos, maps and other pertinent info
in English, Polish and German. Prices are conveniently
listed in both euro and złoty, making this one of the
best resources at your disposal. Airport transfers also
available. Q50 rooms (50 apartments 150 - 400zł).
PTAR6LGKW
Wrocław Capital Apartments B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza
15/4, tel. (+48) 71 341 73 55, www.capitalapart.pl. As
far as we know, being on vacation is about getting trousered,
not wearing them. Like-minded itinerants can have all the
independence they require to feel at home while abroad by
booking into their very own apartment. With several central
locations to choose from, all of Capital’s Wrocław apartments
are modern and equipped with all the accoutrements for
an extended stay, including laundry. Q16 rooms (16 apartments).
PTAR6LGW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
September - December 2012
29

30 HOTELS
ApartHotel Old Town Wrocław
Fast and easy online booking
ul. Wiezienna 21/36
Tel. +48 71 330 71 21, +48 509 508 491
booking@leoapart.com
www.leoapart.com
Edith Stein
Born in Breslau, 1891, the case of Edith Stein has long
divided those of Catholic and Jewish faith. Originally
raised as a Jew she converted to Christianity after
reading the life story of St Teresa of Avila, marking
New Years’ Day, 1922 with her baptism. For the next
nine years she taught in a girls school in Speyer,
before finally landing a lecturing post in Munster in
1932. Her new role was short-lived – Hitler’s ascent
to power brought with it a set of strict racial laws, and
she found herself forced to resign her position. Her
letter to Pope Pius XI denouncing Hitler fell on deaf
ears, and so she entered the Discalced Carmelite Monastrey
in Cologne in 1933. Taking the name Teresa
Benedicta of the Cross she penned numerous books
and studies on spiritualism, and fled westwards to the
Netherlands to escape growing fascist persecution.
It was to prove in vain; in retaliation for comments
made by the Dutch Bishops’ Conference, Dutch Reich
Master Arthur-Seyss-Inquart ordered the immediate
arrest of all Jews who had converted to Christianity.
Both Stein and her sister, Rosa, were packed off to
Auschwitz where they were gassed to death on August
9, 1942. She was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1987
after a young girl made a miraculous recovery having
taken a massive overdose of Tylenol. Medical opinion
was confounded, with the miracle credited to prayers
dedicated to Teresa. The process for sainthood was
set in motion, and finally came full circle when she was
canonized in 1998. However, since then both Jews
and Catholics have squabbled and fought over her
sainthood, each claiming her as their own.
Hostels
It wasn’t long ago that staying in a Wrocław hostel meant
sleeping on a metal cot in a humourless Soviet-style dormitory
run by a stern Polish babcia who locked the doors promptly at
23:00 and didn’t entertain English-language appeals from late
arrivals. Fortunately Wrocław’s discovery and development
into a first-rate travel destination has changed all that, and
today you’ll find the quality, quantity and value of hostels in
Wrocław very high, with each subsequent opening seeming to
raise the standard even more. The market is currently at its
peak, and though your choices are varied and higher in volume
than ever before, it’s still important to book ahead. While we
don’t have space here to list every bunk in town, we’ve made
an effort to include the best on the market. Sleep it off.
Absynt Hostel A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48)
691 40 54 05, www.absynthostel.pl. Stunningly chic
and well-equipped, this hip, high-standard hostel right in the
midst of the ul. Ruska nightlife action offers stylish rooms and
dorms with lockers, a large, brightly-coloured common room
and kitchen, satellite TV and two computers with internet.
With 38 rooms accommodating 1-4 sleepers in the hostel
itself, Absinthe’s offer has recently expanded to include over
20 different outstandingly equipped apartments as well;
that’s a tonne of options, and a good chance that there’s
availability somewhere. Check their website for seasonal
promotions that make this bottom budget sleeper even more
of a bargain. Q38 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles, 5 triples, 4
quads, 21 apartments, 20 Dorm beds). PTA6GW
Avantgarde B-5, ul. Kościuszki 55, tel. (+48) 71 341
07 38, www.avantgardehostel.pl. A superbly modern
hostel, dorms come fitted with steel frame bunks, while a limit
of seven to a room ensure minimal risk of having your rest
interrupted by drunken oafs snoring away or randy couples
giving the bed springs a workout. Metallic grey and tangerine
colours prevail throughout, adding a sharp aesthetic, while
every detail and fitting shines and sparkles. Bed linen and
towels are supplied gratis, some rooms come with showers
and TVs, and other common facilities include high-speed
internet, DVDs and a full kitchen. In fact they were doing so
well that they added an additional 53 sleeping places in the
same building under the banner of Ale Hostel before bringing
this range of dorms and private rooms, all incidentally
decorated by local designers, back under the Avantgarde
name. Q56 rooms (5 singles, 23 doubles, 5 triples, 163
Dorm beds). A6GW
Boogie E-4, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72,
www.boogiehostel.com. One more hostel to add to
Wrocław’s ever growing list, and it’s not bad at all. Features of
note include a great spiral staircase inside a brick tower, lots
of timber frames and a Playstation in the fabulous common
room, which is every bit as sexy as a pink pussycat; think
low banquettes, purple colours and weird wallpaper. Facilities
include their own bar, a fully stocked kitchen, bullet-fast
internet and a DVD collection, while accommodation comes
split between private rooms and dorms decked out with
single beds - so no chance of the bloke in the upstairs bunk
stepping on your head. Quite an experience, and those with
an aversion to spiral stairs can catch a ride in the lift. Q21
rooms (2 singles, 9 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads, 23 Dorm
beds). TA6GW
Chopper Hostel F-4, ul. Kotlarska 42, tel. (+48) 71
344 37 81, www.chopperhostel.pl. As far as we can tell,
this is actually the hostel we stayed in when we first came
to Wrocław back in 2006. Of course that was when it was
just an anonymous guesthouse, before most of the hostels
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
listed in this guide ever came into existence, and long before
you needed something like a motorbike theme to distinguish
yourself from the pack. Aside from a small wall mural in
each dorm room, the theme isn’t as offensive as you might
anticipate, with the overriding design motif actually being the
sturdy, masculine timber furnishings. Aside from free internet
amenities are limited, and the common area seems to be the
attached bar/restaurant, where the design concept is fully
seen through to fruition and numerous events take place on
the weekends. Note that hostel prices also increase slightly
on weekends. Q18 rooms (6 doubles, 4 quads, 52 Dorm
beds). AGKW
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787
75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. It is not the best hostel
in Poland for nothing. With its big dorms, good bathrooms
and terrific common room (where there are always travellers
ready to spin you a yarn or two) and off-beat, happy staff,
Mleczarnia has a recipe for success and sticks to it. For
those who like a bit more privacy the doubles with their own
bathrooms are tremendous (we had a pair of vintage skis in
ours, which kind of sums the place up), and the apartment
(in a separate building close to the Rynek) is well worth a
splurge. Q8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad,
34 Dorm beds). TA6GW
Moon Hostel A-3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from
Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00,
www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. Like a lot of places in
Wroclaw, this one is a bit hard to find as there are few signs
to guide you through the tunnel entrance, then the courtyard,
and finally up the elevator to the third floor. However, once
inside you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the amount of common
areas, soothing blue décor, ample kitchen and a great
little play area for kids. Although the rooms have up to eight
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
HOTELS
The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.
ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław, tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl
e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl
beds, they never group you in with strangers; only the people
you know and checked in with. With a friendly albeit more
mature vibe, Moon Hostel is only about a five-minute walk
from the Rynek and closer still to the late-night Mecca otherwise
known as Pasaż Niepolda off of Ruska. Q22 rooms
(5 singles, 8 doubles, 4 triples, 4 quads). A6LGW
The One Hostel B-3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71 337
24 02, www.theonehostel.pl. One of Wrocław’s most
modern hostels, this restored 14th century townhouse on the
market square offers simple dormitory rooms with fantastic
views of the Town Hall that will really make you feel like you are
in the very heart of the action. Double rooms and Japanese
capsules are also available. In terms of frills, the standard
is high, but there aren’t a whole lot of extras. In terms of
location, however, this really is ‘The One.’ Q20 rooms (6
singles, 6 doubles, 2 quads, 90 Dorm beds). THAGW
Wratislavia C-5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71
360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. With help from the
EU, this handsome 19th century tenement 10 mins from the
train station and market square has been transformed into
a modern backpackers’ paradise. One of Wrocław’s largest
hostels with 126 places, rooms range from 6-bed dorms to
private suites and even 10 apartments with kitchen annexes.
All include en-suite bathrooms so you’re never sharing the
plumbing with more than 6 people, and guests have access
to the internet cafe, guest kitchen, large dining room, common
room, lockers, self-serve laundry, free tea, coffee and
breakfast. The camaraderie quotient is high thanks to an
enthusiastic staff and lots of common space, but Wratislavia
is also perfect for those want a hostel atmosphere they can
close the door on when they’ve had enough. Q33 rooms (2
singles, 4 doubles, 3 triples, 17 quads, 10 apartments, 37
Dorm beds). AR6UGW
September - December 2012
31

32 RESTAURANTS
Dining at a Glance
The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław
is ever improving - as is the quality of service - and
the city’s respectable number of international restaurants
reflects its status as a thriving urban centre.
While In Your Pocket once tried to list every eatery
in the city centre, the expansion of the market and
sheer redundancy of many restaurants (upscale
Italian anyone?) now make that pursuit impractical.
In our dining section you’ll find reviews of the most
noteworthy and high-profile establishments in town,
from those well-hidden places you shouldn’t miss, to
prime locations you should swerve. While our print
guide carries a large selection of restaurants, you’ll
find even more on our website, where we encourage
you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve
visited.
All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited
and updated regularly. The figures we quote in brackets
represent the least and most expensive main courses
on the menu. The hours we list are not the opening
hours, but the times between which you can expect the
chef to be working.
Below are some specific recommendations depending
on what you might be looking for.
SPLURGE:
By common consent JaDka remains Wrocław’s best
restaurant, though Le Bistrot Parisien isn’t far behind
in our book. For fine dining in an unforgettable location
head to Wieza Cieśnień’s water tower terrace,
the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja Acquario, or
Pergola overlooking the Wrocław Fountain. Japanese
eatery Darea offers scope for extravagance, while Da
Andrea and Brasserie 27 could have you reaching
for your plastic.
CHEAP:
Local institutions Kuchnia Marche and Multifood
STP (see Quick Eats) offer surprisingly good
food priced by weight, and if you’re really on the
cheap you can wait until 30mins before closing
when they cut their prices in half. If you’re loco
enough to go full local, it doesn’t get cheaper or
more authentic than a Milk Bar in the afternoon,
or Zakąski Przekąski for a late night refill (see
box in Nightlife).
LADS:
Capri is the default pizza choice, while the busty maidens
of the Bierhalle and Spiż breweries, along with the
costumed gents of Pod Fredra, will keep you piled with
beer and brats all day and night. Alternatively, head to
Winners (see Bars) for precision steaks with a view of
the match.
COUPLES:
The rooftop Restauracja Acquario of the Hotel
Monopol was made for proposals and other romantic
moments, and JaDka always impresses
with its high quality food. Boats routinely score
high romantically, so feel like you’re on one by
taking a table overlooking the harbour at Marina
or Przystań, or go for the real thing at Barka
Tumska.
American
America Bar & Grill E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia
Park), tel. (+48) 71 338 50 94, www.americarestaurant.pl.
With Rodeo Drive disappearing from the Rynek,
those desperate for American bar fare may have to heave
their hungry, homesick, unhealthy hearts out to the Magnolia
Park shopping complex to indulge in fried food, burgers and
barbecue. Formerly Wrocław’s TGI Friday’s, the name and
management may have changed but the food and quality are
just as familiar as before, with decent steaks, sandwiches,
shakes and tall sodas (with free refills!). QOpen 09:00 -
21:00. (19-48zł). PTAUGSW
Rodeo Grill Steak House A-2, ul. Więzienna 21
(Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71. Hardly the
kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from the name,
this steakhouse does a surprisingly good job of maintaining
the high standards of Galeria Italiano - Wrocław’s modern
restaurant corridor. Burgers are sequestered to only a brief
requisite mention at the end of the placemat menu - primarily
a range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse and rib-eye,
prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our roast beef was
commendable, but if you want your meat other than medium
rare, make sure you say so (no one asked us). An excellent
beer list includes Svyturys Baltas (a personal fave), La Trappe,
Bishop’s Finger, Opat (a Czech pepper-infused pilsner on draft)
and others specifically selected to complement steak. The
simple, airy interior is neither too classy nor too casual and has
a friendly family atmosphere that keeps its tables as full as its
patrons. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99zł). PA6GSW
Armenian
Armine A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 83, tel. (+48) 71
367 15 31, www.armine.com.pl. Given a makeover, this
brilliant budget place is now better than ever. The Asatryan
family who own and run it seem to know everyone who comes
through the door at Armine, which appears to be a second
home for much of Wrocław’s Armenian community. If you’ve
come for the food, not a chat and a vodka, the owners grill
shish kebabs on an open coal fire and fill your table with
salads, pilaf and dolma. We love it. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(20-30zł). PJA6GBS
French
NEW
La Vie En Rose ul. Czysta 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 783 44 55,
www.restauracjalavieenrose.com. Named after Edith Piaf’s
signature song, Wrocław now has a second French restaurant
(after the popular Le Bistrot Parisien). The only trouble is it’s a
bit hard to find in an odd location behind the Renoma shopping
complex. That and it was unexpectedly closed on the occasion
when we were able to drop by, two factors which surely aren’t
helping it overtake its competition for the banner of ‘best French
cuisine in Wrocław.’ However the modern red and grey interior
(with the requisite images of Paris) and outdoor terrace with its
fountain and sculpture art all make it look promising enough for
us to come by for a full review next time. Let us know what sort
of experience you had by leaving a comment on our website.
QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
(21-59zł). PTA6UGBSW
Le Bistrot Parisien A-2, ul. Nożownicza 1d, tel. (+48)
71 341 05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. This ambitious
‘bistro’ pays homage to Paris with period photos of the French
capital and readymade meal sets including appetiser, entree
and dessert. The prices may seem preciously Parisian as
well, but the food is of exceptional quality, including staples
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
like frog legs, French onion soup, fried snails and the wine to
complement them. A popular congregation point of expats,
the staff are very friendly, flirty and accommodating; and
as such, in no way French. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 -
22:00. (31-63zł). JAGBSW
Greek
Akropolis A-3, Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14 13,
www.akropolis.wroc.pl. Apparently Plac Solny just wasn’t
central enough for the Greeks, as they’ve packed up and
plonked themselves in a handsome new location smack on
the Rynek. Seems they’ve also traded up with the interior
design, swapping breezy seaside villa for a dark wood, winewarm
elegance more befitting the historic townhouse it now
occupies. Indeed the gold and lavender walls seem to compel
you to buy an obligatory bottle of red. Remaining is Akropolis’
Godfather factor, where well-dressed patrons wine and dine
their dames in what is still one of the best ethnic restaurants
in the region. The menu of seafood and Greek meats from the
grill hits the mark - we ordered lamb and were not disappointed.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (28-80zł). PTJAGBSW
Akropol Na Solnym F-4, Pl. Solny 18/19, tel. (+48) 71
788 81 42, www.akropolrestaurant.pl. High-end Greek dining,
with music, ambience and decor to match. Choose from a
menu of steak, shrimp, salads and classics such as the very tasty
Moussaka. The interior is a sea of cream and gold with a spiral
staircase leading to a mezzanine floor overlooking the bar and
main dining room with hanging lights. Feast to the soothing sound
of a trickling water feature. Polish owned, though you’d hardly know
it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30-75zł). PTAUBXSW
Greco A-3, Rynek 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 29 12, www.
grecja.pl. Both looking and feeling rather Greek (as you would
expect, given the name) this place serves a great selection
of fish (all flown in fresh), big Greek salads with proper feta
cheese (and not the local variety), plenty of grilled meats and
the odd kebab. Amazingly good service given how busy it can
get. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (9-60zł). PTAGBSW
Indian
Masala Indian Restaurant B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 3, tel.
(+48) 71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Well-positioned
just off the market square, Masala does traditional Indian
food in a more contemporary European style as Indian chefs
work in plain view behind two long bars in the offbeat granite
gray interior full of comical, conical hanging lamps, pop art
elephants and colourful seat cushions. The 12-30zł Express
Lunch (served 11:00 - 15:00, Mon-Fri) fills the seats and represents
not only a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious
food. The regular menu hits all the marks and portions are
larger than most places, earning our earnest recommendation.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (12-70zł). PTAVGBSW
Spice India B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 15a, tel. (+48)
71 794 80 44, www.spiceindia.pl. This upscale Indian
eatery offers a large menu of eastern classics prepared
with your choice of chicken, lamb, mutton, fish or strictly
veggie, small portions demand that you order a side of rice
and things can quickly become pricey for those that can’t
resist samosas and a mango lassi; fortunately you can
stop in during lunch (12:00-17:00) for max value meal sets
(20-25zł). An elegant, primarily white interior is enlivened by
colourful place settings, paper lanterns and wall hangings,
where svelte belly-dancers occasionally gyrate. All around
authentic and appreciated. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-45zł).
PTAUGSW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Get to know the original and chic
character of French cuisine
ul. Nożownicza 1D
071- 341-05-65
info@lebistrotparisien.pl
www.lebistrotparisien.pl
Tipping Tribulations
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners.
While in other countries it’s perfectly normal and even
courteous to say ‘thanks’ when the wait staff comes to
collect the bill, you’ll be startled to learn that in Poland uttering
the word ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even ‘thank you’
in English, is an indication that you don’t want any change
back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing, not
to mention aggravating, if you’re later forced to track down
your server and shamefully ask for your change. In order to
avoid these situations, we strongly suggest that you only
say ‘thank you’ when the service of your waiter/waitress is
no longer needed and you are happy for them to keep all of
the change. When that’s not the case, the word you need
learn is ‘proszę’ (pronounced pro-sheh). Meaning ‘please’
in Polish, this is a vital social cue that translates to ‘yes, I
want all of my change, no matter how small it is.’
Despite the fact that the standards of service in Poland
have skyrocketed in the last decade, the average waiter/
waitress in this country still only makes a paltry 8-12zł/hr,
and a customary tip is still only 10% of the meal’s total
(though being a foreigner may make staff expectant of
a bit more generosity). Those numbers look pretty low to
us, so we strongly encourage you to reward good service
when you feel it’s deserved.
Finally, it is not common practice to add the tip to your
credit card payment because the wait staff are then
forced to pay tax on the gratuity; most likely you will not
even have an opportunity to leave a tip on your card. For
that reason, try to have some change handy so you
can still leave a cash tip, or ask your server for change
if you need to.
September - December 2012
33

34 RESTAURANTS
Quick Eats
BLT & Flatbreads A-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48)
71 796 33 44, www.blt.wroclaw.pl. This upscale
American-inspired (free ketchup without asking! large
sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly balances a somewhat
grimy dive-bar location (that’s a good thing) with a
sharp, clean, high-ceilinged interior to great effect. The
menu would hardly be inventive if not for the fact that a
decent sandwich is a rare thing in this country; as such
it’s a revelation. Choose from a wide diversity of quickly
served variations on the BLT, Philly cheesesteak and
burger. The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on
flatbread are creative, the presentation is top notch and
the prices are fair and affordable across the board. Open
late, so you’ve got time to get a couple cheeky ones in
with the crowd stumbling past the window before stopping
by. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 00:30,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (20-35zł). PAUGBSW
Kuchnia Marche A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. (+48)
71 343 95 65, www.marche.com.pl. For something
completely different, visit this colourful food bazaar where
the chefs are at work right in front of you. A bit confusing
for the uninitiated, receive a card at the door and get it
stamped as you wander the food stations making selections
from amongst the Polish, Italian, Asian and Turkish
cuisine on hand, before paying upon completion of your
meal. Fresh and cheap with something to suit all tastes, a
particular standout is the Asian counter where the Asian
chef’s Polish accent may actually be more amusing than
our own. The cheerful canteen atmosphere is dutifully filled
with student diners, many taking advantage of the fact that
everything is reduced in price by 25% from 19:30-20:00,
Mon-Fri, and by 50% after that. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (11-20zł). PTAUVGSW
Multifood STP B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 501
10 34 01, www.multifoodstp.pl. A large self-service
canteen whose counters come manned with cheerful
red clad staff touting sun visors and t-shirts. The dining
hall is largely anonymous, but the food - plates of meat
and veg - has won a loyal student following. Everything
is priced at 3.29zł per 100 grams, with your bill worked
out once you reach the end of the queue. Fast, easy, affordable,
good. Additional locations in Magnolia Park (E-4,
ul. Legnicka 58), Pasaż Grunwaldzki (H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki
22), Centrum Korona (ul. Krzywoustego 126) and Marino
Shopping Centre (ul. Paprotna 7). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
PTAUGBSW
Pita Pan A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 667 00
15 99. Playing off the Polish word for ‘mister’ (pan) and
Peter Pan at the same time, this cleverly-named sidewalk
bar serves surprisingly cheap, filling and authentic Greek
fast food. If (like many of us) you’re sick of chicken and
pork, Pita Pan’s popular souvlaki - a fluffy pita wrapped
around delicious, well-seasoned lamb, red onion, tomato,
and crispy, thick-cut fries topped with real tzatziki sauce
(not powdered garlic sauce) - puts local kebabs to shame.
The Greek salad - with feta cheese and olives straight
from Greece - also makes this reputable establishment
a popular destination for a quick meal in the city centre.
Modest in design, with only a couple tables inside and on
the sidewalk, the food ranks with the best Greek cuisine
in Wrocław, and late weekend hours allow you to take full
advantage. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
(12-18zł). 6UGBSW
International
Aquarelle C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10 (Radisson
Blu Hotel Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. What really
caught our eye on the menu here was the good
selection of cheap, simple kid’s dishes (all priced
around 20zł): a rarity in Poland. For grown ups the
selection is no less varied, though the prices are
higher. We always go for the break-the-bank expensive
but sublime Argentinean steaks, which come
with a choice of side dishes, but there is fish and
pasta too. A seasonal courtyard terrace complete
with lawn is an added bonus for families searching for
somewhere to eat. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (38-110zł).
PTA6UGBW
Barka Tumska C-1, ul. Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel.
(+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.
pl. The city’s first river restaurant, and once again
Wrocław gets it right on the first try. Nestled between
the proliferation of islands and bridges just near
Ostrów Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers no
less than five unique dining rooms over three levels,
including the Captain’s mess and the outstanding upper
deck with room for 80 people to take in the sights
and sunshine. The menu is an inventive mix of local
and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine featuring stuffed
quail, duck in cherry sauce, cheesecake drizzled with
raspberry sauce and dozens of other reasons to
stowaway on this good ship. A smart place to bring a
date or the whole family: kids get their own menu and
play area and will love exploring the corridors of this
unique river diner. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. (30-50zł).
PTAUGBW
Bernard B-3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54,
www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. We’ll go along with the
crowd and admit that this trendy brewery/restaurant is
one of the most alluring ‘locales’ on the market square.
A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long inviting
bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged
tables which don’t offer any privacy but contribute to
the casual atmosphere where the menu is your placemat
and it’s perfectly acceptable to just enjoy a drink
without eating. To that end, they have their own beer
in dark and light, as well as bottled choices including
a decent amber and four alcky-free flavours which we
wouldn’t know anything about; enjoy their draughts in
glasses growing from .4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing
to overlook with a menu ranging from nachos to Polish
classics like golonka and the upper level tables in the
window are a great place to take your date, but reserve
ahead. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 24:00.
(29-75zł). PTA6UEXSW
Bierhalle A-3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601
67 74 52, www.bierhalle.pl. A veritable lads magnet,
this tourist gobbling franchise features busty farmers’
daughters in faux-folk costumes bussing steins of unpasteurised
site-brewed beer to patrons busy stuffing
themselves on sausages, ribs, pork knuckle and other
meaty feasts with fries. The seasonal outdoor seating
does well to capture the spirit of the name, though the
unremarkable interior is a bit like every other place you’ve
ever spilled a beer in, though you may be more remorseful
to have done so here due to each ale’s surprising quality
and cost. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. From November
open 11:00 - 24:00. (15-40zł). PTA6GBSW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

36 RESTAURANTS
Lwia Brama (Lion's Gate) Restaurant
in Wroclaw invites you!
You will fi nd us in the heart
of the oldest part of Wrocław - Cathedral Island.
Enjoy a quiet and gentle environment, that is peaceful
and elegant with delicious cuisine.
ul. Katedralna 9, 50-328 Wrocław
restauracja@lwiabrama.pl, www.lwiabrama.pl
Tel. +48 880 002 742
Brasserie 27 A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a (Europeum
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.
com. Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by
the hotel Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A
mega modern, glass fronted appearance is complemented
by designer hanging lights and dark woods. The reassuringly
short menu starts with Italian and spans steak and also fish
dishes, staying mostly within the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine.
Friendly service and an award winning chef make this one
of the better places in the city to eat. Q Open 07:00 - 10:30,
12:00 - 23:00. (30-55zł). PTAUGSW
Cegielnia B-2, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel.
(+48) 693 97 40 05. This simple, stylish eatery is distinguished
by the black wooden cutlery dangling everywhere.
The food’s not bad either, with huge bowls of basics like salads
and pasta, as well as toasted sandwiches and ciabattas
going for budget prices. Fast and healthy, Cegielnia is an ideal
place to start the night with handsome wine and cocktail lists
making it a trendy place to drink as well. Place your order at
the bar, as they can’t seem to decide whether they actually
have table service or not. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 23:30. (8-22zł). PTJGBSW
Cesarsko-Królewska A-3, Rynek 19, tel. (+48) 71
341 92 07, www.restauracja-ck.pl. An impressive effort
with three vaulted banquet halls designed to evoke the empire
spirit of Vienna, Prague and Budapest. Muskets and framed
pictures hang from the walls and aproned staff rush around
polishing cutlery and straightening table cloths. On the menu
duck, rabbit, boar and other central European classics, while
the cellar houses a huge range of whisky and gourmet vodka.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (19-139zł). PTJABXSW
Cynamon H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 23-27, tel. (+48) 605
86 07 24, www.cynamonbar.pl. Well placed to capture the
local lunch market (there is an office building above and a university/student
dorms opposite), Cynamon serves perfectly
good if not award winning pizza, pasta and salads, all priced
by the weight (29,90zł/kg, if you’re asking). We wouldn’t travel
this far out of town specifically to come here, but if you are
in the area it’s worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. PA6UBXSW
Kuchnia A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 61, tel. (+48) 519
15 69 05. Bookending the Bogusławskiego beer boulevard,
Kuchnia is the ideal place to fortify your stomach while kicking
off your pub crawl. This modest, domestically designed
good eats kitchen offers salads, pasta, risotto and meat
dishes in absolutely huge portions for next to nothing. But
most importantly, here you’ll enjoy another obscure Czech
beer option unique to its neighbours: Litovel. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (15-66zł). AGBS
NEW
Lwia Brama C-2, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27
42, www.lwiabrama.pl. One of the few places you’ll actually
find anything to eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama
offers some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months
from which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the
lamplighter to come round and perform that most romantic of
Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gaslamps. In
winter the underground cellars aren’t as sprawling as you might
expect, but they’re certainly kept warm by the pizza oven and
the history of the building makes them atmospheric enough.
The menu here sticks to the staples - namely pizzas and Polish
dishes - however there’s news that they’re now introducing
molecular cuisine. Besides, you’ll be hard pressed to find much
else to eat on this side of the river. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Mon
12:00 - 21:00. (26-40zł). TA6GBSW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Marina B-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 71 794 00
01, www.marina.wroc.pl. Very nice indeed. Seafood and
pasta on Wroclaw’s mini-marina, with a small terrace offering
views over the canal and the odd boat that uses it. Checkout
what the dish of the day is before ordering it. They’ve recently
re-styled the interior into more of an upscale bar/lounge and
the outdoor garden area is great in the evening for pleasant
views and quiet conversation. If the weather chills or your
mood changes head inside for a cosy cocktail or two. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). PTAUGBSW
Mosaiq Restaurant & Wine Lounge A-3, ul. Św.
Mikołaja 12, tel. (+48) 71 798 35 11, www.mosaiq.
pl. Fine dining at its most chic, Mosaiq offers an impressive
menu with a French motif complemented by rare seafood
specialties and an international flair. The English-trained
chefs make so certain that all their ingredients are fresh
that they boast there’s no refrigerator on site (though we’re
not sure that’s a comfort, plus the ice cream on the menu
disagrees). Unique dishes and specialties such as ray fish,
American-style pancakes, and an array of tartar-style meats
and steaks draw you in, and the enormous wine cellar can
keep you longer than you expected. Although their orientation
is toward a business clientele, their Monday to Saturday lunch
special is a great value. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-120zł).
PTAUGBSW
Pergola Bistro I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71
347 50 21, www.restauracja-pergola.pl. The renovation
of Centennial Hall included the opening of Pergola: a
large modern restaurant with two kitchens and two dining
rooms, one elegant and one casual. Both feature wall to floor
windows with great views of the Wrocław Fountain and surrounding
park; in summer you can catch the water and light
show from your seat, and in winter watch families floundering
around the ice rink. The bistro side has an upscale Ikea
design sense with large white plastic chairs, white tables and
unique light fixtures shaped like jumping jacks. The food is a
standard but satisfying array of Polish meat and fish mains,
pasta, salad and soup, and though a fraction of the cost of
the adjacent restaurant, still a bit overpriced in our opinion.
You’re taxed for the view we presume, but it’s worth it. Q
Open 10:00 - 22:00. From November open 10:00 - 20:00.
(22-39zł). PTAUGBSW
Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71
343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Long known as
a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be forgotten that the
Pod - in the plummest of plum locations on the Rynek - serves
up some rather good food too. Take advantage of the threecourse
28zł lunch menu, served Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait
until evening when the terrific veal steaks will set you up very
nicely for a night of cocktail consumption. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (36-80zł). TJAEGBSW
Pod Złotym Psem (Under the Golden Dog) B-3,
Rynek 41, tel. (+48) 71 372 37 60. Down, down, down you
go into level after level of labyrinthe Rynek cellars, however
the most popular spot here is under the golden parasol on
the market square. As such, the Golden Dog asks you to pay
tourist prices, but it’s only as nice as you want it to be: keep
it simple and affordable with a straight-forward Polish dish or
pay more to follow the chef’s recommendations. The lunch
menu from 12:00 culls the best of the rest of the diverse
menu of Polish, Italian and Mexican dishes and bargain
bins them. Generally likeable, as opposed to memorable.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (18-70zł).
PTJA6GBSW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
September - December 2012
37

38 RESTAURANTS
Przystań (The Harbour) A-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2,
tel. (+48) 71 789 69 09, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Decked
with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and decorated with
old nautical illustrations and knot-tying charts, Przystań
nonetheless remains thoroughly modern matching the design
of the well-placed new building it occupies. Across the river
from the main university building, the real reason to dock in
this harbour is the deck seating over the water which offers
great views and actually feels like you’re on a boat. The
concise menu offers pastas, risottos and gorgeous salads
- including the very brave chicken liver salad with apple,
avocado, orange and parmesan. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(35-68zł). PTAUGBSW
NEW
Restauracja Patio A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel.
(+48) 71 375 04 17, www.hotelpatio.pl/restauracjawroclaw.
An absolutely excellent restaurant, well worth
visiting whether you’re staying in the upstairs hotel or not;
in fact walk-ins would be wise to take advantage of the
business lunch (served Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00), which offers
a delicious meal that shows off the skill and craft of the
chef and is worth much more than the 24zł you pay. Choose
between two dining areas - the bright, open building atrium,
or the more elegant burgundy and black dining room with
Klimt reproductions and creative glass chandeliers adding a
bit of class. Recommended. QOpen 06:45 - 23:00. (35-75zł).
PTAUGSW
Soho B-3, ul. Szewska 8 (entrance from ul.
Oławska), tel. (+48) 71 788 60 06, www.soho.wroc.
pl. An appealing budget breakfast and lunch spot, Soho
has taken a tight menu of basic Polish fare and lightened
it up with Italian flair: local kitchen classics come with
fresh herbs, Mediterranean ingredients and actual attention
is paid to their presentation. The same can be said
of the waitstaff whose dapper digs and professionalism
convey a refinement that has made Soho an extension
of the office for briefcase carrying thirty-somethings. A
smooth organic interior of wooden tables and leather
chairs with a downstairs grotto and fish tank round
off this surprisingly stylish budget lunch bar. QOpen
08:30 - 24:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10-70zł).
PTAGBSW
Spinacz F-4, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel.
(+48) 693 97 40 05. Another winner for the shabby-chic
set, this small corner bar features semi-stylish seating
your dad might have made in wood shop in 1971 and
paper tubes hanging from the ceiling. Students, backpackers
and other post-teen job dodgers love it - enjoying
cheap ciabattas, soup, salads, cutlets and pastas
between cigarettes and fiddling with their hair - and we’d
agree that it’s pretty great, particularly the potato and
cheese fry-ups served in the skillet. Open late and the
perfect place to re-fortify yourself during a protracted
night out on the town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:45. (10-22zł).
PAGBSW
Vincent E-4, ul. Ruska 39, tel. (+48) 71 341 05 20,
www.vincent.wroclaw.pl. Set over numerous levels
Vincent is all woodcutters timber beams, warm corners
and dusky lanterns. It looks like an old country inn and the
food reflects the surrounds; manly servings of steak and
duck, but the menu changes regularly and they often have
theme menus crafted around a particular cuisine or ingredient.
Not the cheapest meal in town, but certainly worth
the visit. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (22-64zł).
PTJA6XW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Wieża Ciśnień E-7, ul. Sudecka 125a, tel. (+48)
71 367 19 29, www.wiezacisnien.pl. Affecting the
look of a fairytale castle the second floor of this former
water tower is now home to Wieża, one of the few restaurants
in town that qualifies the taxi bill (about 15zł).
An uncluttered design features plenty of red bricks,
whites and dark woods, and definitely hails from the
‘less is more’ school of thinking. The chef does the
rest with a great seasonal menu that is focused, but
not limited to grilled meats. In June the fantastic third
floor open-air grill-bar opens, and on Sundays from
12:00-17:00 there’s a babysitter on site; order a meal
a la carte and your kid eats free. You can get there easily
via buses 144, 127 or 136. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(39-96zł). PTAGBS
Złota A-3, Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 71 716 59 29. This
eager to please Rynek restaurant might be trying a bit
too hard. The staff is super friendly and the diverse
menu dabbles in everything from pizza and pasta to
fish stew and grilled steaks, traditional Polish dishes
and vodka snacks. It’s a lot to take in, but makes a
handy visor to shield you from the glare of one of the
most gaudy interiors we’ve seen in some time. Looking
like something from Disney’s Aladdin, the abundance
of bright blue sky ceilings, gold leaf and rainbow glass
tiles are only outdone by the small room designed to
evoke melting ice cream (actually, that’s our favourite).
Fortunately there’s seating on the market square in
summer, where you can still enjoy the excellent service
and good food. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (32-80zł).
PTA6UGBSW
Italian
Amalfi B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 343
67 84, www.amalfi.pl. Another of the numerous
establishments to have recently sprung up on this
inconspicuous backstreet, this one is another Italian.
Being named after that small coastal town near
Naples, the expectations are high. Although we weren’t
overwhelmed it did not disappoint by any stretch of
the imagination - especially as we were eating pizza
for breakfast. The setting is exceptionally authentic;
think terracotta tiles, large olive oil bottles and Italian
landscapes covering the walls. With appropriately
competitive prices, the place actually represents
very good value. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (23-88zł).
PTAUGBS
Cantina B-2, ul. Nożownicza 4, tel. (+48) 71 324
17 96, www.cantina.wroclaw.pl. There are a slew of
fine Italian restaurants popping up Wrocław’s Old Town
that maintain traditional and high standards for Italian
fare. Cantina does so with gusto. With mahogany décor,
mandarin oranges and wine bottles in the windows, and
the Italian tricolour above the entrance, there is little
doubt you are entering a celebration of Italian cuisine.
Despite opening a couple of hours earlier, don’t expect
to order a meal before 2pm as the chef ventures out each
afternoon for the fresh ingredients of each day’s menu.
As such the small daily menu sports about twenty wellknown
Italian dishes including one or two soups, salads
and desserts. The wine-list is quite large considering the
modest size of Cantina, and of the one hundred or so
wines they offer about eighty come from various regions
of Italy. Like many spots in Wrocław, they stay open until
the last customer leaves, so take your time tasting as
many wines as you can handle. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(23-68zł). PTA6VGBSW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Water Tower
Water Tower E-7, ul. Sudecka 125a. Modelled on
a medieval castle, this architectural masterpiece only
a short taxi drive from the centre shouldn’t be missed.
Originally designed by Karl Klimm, an eminent Breslau
architect and the brains behind the Zwierzyniecki Bridge
(J-4), the 63m tower was built between 1903 and
1904 and supplied water to the residents of southern
Wrocław, with the base of the building used to house
employees. From its beginnings this fairytale tower
was equipped with an electric lift to whisk visitors to
the top for panoramic views; costing 10 pfennigs, a
clear day would afford sightseers uninterrupted views
of the Sudety Mountains 100kms away, and a red flag
would wave from the top whenever viewing was deemed
particularly good. The sculptors Taschner and Bednorz
added several intricate carvings to the sandstone,
including medieval style bas reliefs depicting winged
beasts engaged in gruesome scenes, and a spectacular
fountain spouting water from the underground spring
below the building. During the 1945 Siege of Breslau
the tower served as a military observation point, and in
spite of heavy shelling in the immediate vicinity survived
largely unscathed. Up until the ‘80s it continued to function
as a water plant, though black with soot and pockmarked
with bullet holes. In 1995 it was purchased by
Stephan Elektronik Investment who promptly launched
an ambitious plan to restore it to its former glory. Based
on a design by Wacław Bienasz-Necholson countless
cash was committed to the project, its rejuvenation as
a city icon completed with the addition of the Wieża
Ciśnień bistro and restaurant.
September - December 2012
39

40 RESTAURANTS
Wrocław
ul. Kuźnicza 43/45
reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01
restauracja@darea.pl
www.darea.pl
The best sushi in the city
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria B-2, ul. Więzienna 21
(Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.pl.
Found inside the Galeria Italia complex the style
here is clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially
limited to the streetside views and the theatrics of other
diners. An ambitious range of Italian dishes can be found
here, with the real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the
proprietors’ Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence
on the end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels,
providing prospective diners with all the more reason to visit.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (11-200zł). PTA6GBSW
Da Andrea A-3, Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 00,
www.daandrea.pl. Definitely entering into the conversation of
Wrocław’s best Italian, this fine-diner on the market square foregoes
folksy trattoria trappings in favour of scarlet and burgundy
surroundings, satin table dressings, fresh flowers and most of
all fine ingredients. The menu begins with pizza, including a page
inspired by specific members of Wrocław’s gnome community,
before covering an excellent range of authentic pastas, gnocchi,
risottos, fish and meat entrees, complemented by an enormous
list of European wines. The results are exquisite and the service
very professional, explaining the large number of foreign business
owners hashing out deals in the two level interior. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (16-75zł). PTAGBSW
NEW
Gallo Nero Grande B-4, Pl. Teatralny 4, tel. (+48) 71
344 50 06, www.gallonerogrande.pl. Located under
Teatr Lalek, the cavernous interior of this uninspired Italian
restaurant reveals room after room of chequered red and
white tablecloths under timber ceilings and busty photos of
Sophia Loren and Luciano Pavorotti, as the Italian satellite
radio station presents some rather untakeable tunes. While
seemingly ideal for that most Italian of pleasures - sharing
food with friends and family - the menu is merely an overlyfamiliar
rundown of pizzas and classic Italian dishes that
soon prove themselves to be nothing special. The highlight
is probably the large outdoor summer seating area, but the
Don is most certainly elsewhere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(30-60zł). PTAUEGBSW
il Gusto A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342
00 11, www.ilgusto.pl. A classy restobar with an Italian
influenced menu which offers up a range of very good pizzas,
pastas and soups. The chicken dish in cream sauce
with bacon and peppers can certainly be recommended
while a colleague has nothing but good things to say about
the salads. Once fed, take up position on one of the soft
furnishings and watch the slightly maturer crowd get stuck
into the evening. Recommended. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 02:00. (15-42zł). PA6GBS
Il Peperoncino F-4, Rynek 23/24, tel. (+48) 71 793 55
22, www.ilpeperoncino.com.pl. Two tacky flaming towers
flanking the entrance distinguish Il Peperoncino from the other
four upmarket Italian restaurants on the market square (there
could be more by the time you read this). The menu covers
the usual suspects and the Italian chef has a tendency to mill
amongst the tables when he has time, adding to the friendly
atmosphere. In summer almost all the seating is moved
outside, so be sure not to miss the interior’s floor-to-ceiling
Roman antiquity decorative motif and massive wine collection.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (12-79zł). PAUGBSW
La Scala A-3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94,
www.lascala.pl. Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big
reputation amongst locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices
and uneven service of the bow-tied staff. That’s down to the
food no doubt, with arguably the best Italian in town in the
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
exclusive upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria
offers guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the
menu amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural
Italy and strings of garlic. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (18-140zł).
PTJABXSW
Novocaina A-3, Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 71 343 69 15,
www.novocaina.com. A fashionable eatery whose now tattered
menus testify to its popularity. An extravagant design
featuring plump scarlet fabrics is perfectly complemented by
the crowd of vamps found within the four walls. The cooking
features standard Italian offerings, from pizza and pasta
to decent pepper steak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (35-70zł).
PTJAGBSW
NEW
Quorematto Sukiennice 6, tel. (+48) 71 343 66 66.
This straight-forward, authentic and affordable Italian pizza
bar makes eating in the Town Hall accessible to everyone,
and extra perks like daily pasta specials and ‘spritz parties’
from 17:00-19:00 featuring free finger food at the bar only
contribute to its emergence as a favoured first date destination
with locals. Choose between the seasonal outdoor seating
or the sleek, Ferrari red interior with a long bar and sports
on the large tele. The pizza menu is extensive and diverse,
including Italian and international styles, light pizza (cheese
added after baking) and white pizza (no sauce) topped with
a range of fresh veggies, meats and cheeses. No complaints
from us. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. (9-29zł). PTAVGBSW
Ristorante Convivio C-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel.
(+48) 71 344 17 09, www.convivio.pl. Modern Italian
food served inside an absolutely gorgeous 14th century
Franciscan monastery full of soaring arches, candleabras,
white tableclothes and linen touches. This is fine dining and
priced accordingly, though the immaculate location - with a
lovely summer garden - ably covers much of the cost. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (19-68zł). TA6GBSW
Va Bene Trattoria F-4, Rynek 51, tel. (+48) 71 343
83 50, www.vabenerestauracja.pl. Between covering
Wrocław and Kraków, Va Bene is unfortunately about 50
Italian restaurants too late for us to get excited about its
claim as the best Italian food in the region. We will say that
it is very good; so good in fact that there’s no point in opening
another Italian restaurant to out-do it. (Ok? How about a
Thai restaurant? We could get excited about that.) The menu
changes with the seasons covering all the highlights of Italian
cuisine and more, extending to pizzas and even breakfast.
The interior is suitably sharp and features the original ceiling,
which is worth taking a peek at whether you’re hungry or
not. Sneak in for the 23,90zł daily lunch menu, and in summer
enjoy people-watching from their market square patio.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (19-65zł).
PTAGBSW
Japanese
Darea Sushi B-2, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71
343 53 01, www.darea.pl. A huge open plan space that
does little in the way of décor, but plenty for the reputation
of Korean food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in
Poland over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu
of both Japanese and Korean dishes including tangsuyuk
(sweet and sour beef baked in pastry), bulgogi and five
grill options where the cooking is left to the patrons. Highly
recommended and a confirmed favourite of Wrocław’s expats.
Take-away on offer at a 15 per cent discount. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (20-100zł). PTAGBS
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Restauracja OHH!SUSHI&GRILL
C.H.Galeria Dominikańska
Pl. Dominikański 3, Wroclaw
Tel. 71 330 6540
Restauracja OHH!SUSHI&GRILL
C.H Magnolia Park
Ul. Legnicka 58, Wroclaw
Tel. 71 350 0368
www.ohhsushi.pl
September - December 2012
41

42 RESTAURANTS
Ohh! Sushi C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3 (Galeria
Dominikańska, level 0), tel. (+48) 71 330 65 40. One
of Poland’s better sushi chains, Ohh! Sushi continues to
surprise shoppers by providing exceptionally authentic,
fresh food in one of the last places you would expect it: a
shopping mall. Incredibly popular as a take-away spot, that
less energy has been put into the design of the interior than
the quality of the food should hardly concern anyone’s stomach.
With the endorsement of plenty of Asian clients at the
tables each time we drop by, Ohh! Sushi is not only up there
with the city’s best Japanese, it’s the best value in Wrocław
for this elsewhere over-priced food fad. Another location in
Magnolia Park (ul. Legnicka 58). QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. (15-60zł). PTAUGSW
Sakana A-2, ul. Odrzańska 17/1a, tel. (+48) 71 343 37
10, www.sakana.pl. Arguably regarded as the best sushi
in the capital, the Sakana team have expanded to cover
Wrocław and the natives appear to be loving it. Expertly
prepared raw fish floats by on small boats inside a pleasant
white interior decorated sparingly with bamboo bits and
bobs. Definitely one of the addresses to be seen dining
in, as proved by the crowds of fashionista who prop up the
bar. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-80zł).
PTA6VGSW
Sushi 77 B-2, ul. Nożownicza 1c, tel. (+48) 71 341
72 71, www.sushi77.com. Setting up shop directly
across from Sakana, the arrival of Sushi 77 doesn’t set off
a turf war as much as establish a veritable sushi district in
Wrocław. While no one has ever accused Sakana of being
anything less than excellent, Sushi 77 can go toe-to-toe
with a haughty reputation of its own as one of the bestregarded
Japanese restaurants serving edible art crafted
in front of you by skilled fish-flayers. Priding themselves
on their guarded rice preparation recipe, 77 knows sushi
and expects you to as well, not letting anyone off the hook
with spring rolls or noodles. It’s an expert effort, as the
new neighbours prove they can easily wax off whatever
Sakana waxes on across the street. Ying-yang, baby. Also
at ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2/4 (Arkady Wrocławskie; E-6)
and Pl. Grunwaldzki 22 (Pasaż Grunwaldzki, H-4). QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (19-54zł). PTAGSW
Szajnochy 11 A-3, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48) 71
342 30 62. Sushi chefs work in plain view behind the canal
bar, foregoing formal pretences with chatty camaraderie,
as prepared sushi rolls float by ready to be plucked onto
the plates of patrons. That’s not to say these gents don’t
know what they’re doing - our nigiri and futomaki rolls were
as good (and as fresh) as any we’ve had anywhere, and it’s
certainly refreshing to see a bit of lightheartedness applied to
something as achingly serious as sushi has been ever since it
left Japan. Decor is minimal but on the mark with white walls
and dark wood furnishings, and like many other local places,
it pays to appear during lunch (served until 15:00) for bargain
priced sushi sets, which - as you might expect - can get quite
expensive otherwise. Overall: simple, authentic and, most
of all, friendly. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(30-60zł). PTA6GBSW
Jewish
Sarah E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 792 49
56, www.sarah.wroclaw.pl. Located near the White
Stork Synagogue and Jewish Community Centre, this is
Wrocław’s only Jewish restaurant. With plenty of atmosphere
thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight
and loads of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes
found in Kraków’s old Jewish district and teams with
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Mleczarnia to create one of the best beer gardens in the
city (note that this is only open in warmer months). The
budget menu is not kosher, but features traditional Jewish
dishes, and though reports of their quality and that of
the service is a little uneven, this is still a great place to
spend time in our opinion. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (12-37zł).
PA6UGBS
Latin American
NEW
Casa Latina B-2, ul. Więzienna 5b, tel. (+48) 794
34 54 43. This funky, colourful Tex-Mex eatery makes
plenty of bold moves with the interior decor - some of
them brilliant, like the bright, quilted booths and organic
graphic art on the walls; some of them not so, like the
large portraits of women superimposed with random
patterns and maps, and the repetitive club music (make
it stop!). The menu is both a familiar, refreshing and in the
end satisfactory attempt at dishes ranging from burritos
to empanadas, and the prices are perfectly fair. Daily
lunch specials make them even better, and the playful
atmosphere makes Casa Latina a good place to stop for
a pre-party fuel-up. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (17-38zł). PTA6GSW
Mediterranean
La Maddalena E-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71
782 60 90, www.lamaddalena.pl. With a great location
next to the Mleczarnia beer garden, and including seasonal
outdoor seating overlooking the White Stork Synagogue,
La Maddelena offers upscale dining in Wrocław’s former
Jewish, currently hipster district. The creme-coloured,
conservatively elegant interior includes homely touches
like wicker lampshades and quilted seat covers, and can
accommodate large groups as well as couples looking
for a more intimate date destination. An enticing menu of
Mediterranean dishes, ranging from light tapas to expertly
prepared pastas, makes the art of deciding a challenge and
with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted
to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small
but delicious. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(31-74zł). PTAUGBSW
Restauracja Acquario A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.
monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. The upscale restaurant on
the rooftop terrace of the legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario
offers an enticing card of Mediterranean entrees with a
special flair for seafood, but if you’re anything like us you’ll
be just as interested in the wine card. With a world-class list
on hand, there’s no better way to relax than with a bottle of
red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocław through rosetinted
glasses. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 24:00.
(76-89zł). PTAUGW
Splendido A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. (+48) 71 344 77
77, www.splendido.pl. An old timer that’s been impressing
us ever since we first bowled into town nearly a decade back.
Cutting edge it isn’t, but if you’re after top notch Mediterranean
eats then you can’t go far wrong. Only a Bolivian
drug lord would enjoy the excessive interiors, but there’s no
faulting choices like the lamb haunch or Dover sole. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00. (47-83zł). PTA6UIEGS
www.inyourpocket.com
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
The best Latin cuisine dishes
in combination with the excellent
European cuisine standards
September - December 2012
43

44 RESTAURANTS
Zbigniew Cybulski
Referred to as the ‘Polish James Dean,’ Zbigniew ‘Zbyszek’
Cybulski personified the confusion and longings of Poland’s
post-war youth. His image – dark glasses, leather
jacket, angry young man frown – was so widely emulated
that a border guard once pointed at him sneering ‘there’s
another idiot pretending to be Cybulski’. He was born in
1927 in what is now Ukraine; his mother saw active service
during WWII with the Red Army, while his father was
imprisoned in France for his work with local resistance
fighters. His cinematic debut (and Roman Polański’s) came
in 1954 when he played a small role in Andrzej Wajda’s
film, A Generation. His big break followed in 1958 when
he starred in Krzyż Walecznych, and later that year he
shot to international fame when he was nominated for a
BAFTA award as best foreign actor for his seminal role,
that of a troubled resistance fighter in Wajda’s Ashes
and Diamonds. From there he became one of Poland’s
best known faces, appearing in a string of hit films. His
premature death came on January 8, 1967, when he was
killed while jumping onto a moving Warsaw-bound train at
Wrocław’s train station. Only the day before he had been
informed that he was to star in the New York production of
Tennessee Williams’ ‘A Streetcar Named Desire’. His impact
on Polish film cannot be underestimated, as proved in
1996 when readers of Film magazine voted him Poland’s
‘Best Actor of All Time’. A plaque commemorating his life
was unveiled on platform three of Wrocław’s train station
by his mentor Andrezj Wajda in 1997. Two years later a
star honouring Cybulski’s achievements was unveiled on
the Walk of Fame on Łódź’s ul. Piotrkowska.
Mexican
Mexico Bar A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 34, tel. (+48) 71 346
02 92. Unfortunately, here in PL, the temptation is to adapt
ethnic cuisine to the ‘Polish palate’. All too often huge effort
and no doubt expense is expended on the cosmetic details
with much less attention paid to what gets served up on
your plate. Mexico Bar is a case in point. The compact
hacienda-style interior is decorated with lots of cacti, Aztec
masks and Corona bottles chandeliers, giving a positive first
impression, however the anti-climax appears the moment
inauthentic, tasteless food arrives. We would like to believe
that we’d be just as critical if we were eating at a Polish
restaurant outside of Poland. All that however doesn’t stop
this place turning tables on a regular basis with the locals
evidently more than happy with what they get. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-75zł).
PTJAGBSW
The Mexican B-3, ul. Szewska 61/62, tel. (+48) 516
06 93 33, www.mexican.pl. It keeps getting worse. Most
recently, we accompanied a friend who, gringo that she is,
went ahead and ordered a vegetarian burrito. The results?
A flour tortilla filled with frozen peas and carrots on a bed of
kraut, topped with wimpy salsa and guacamole. Difficult to
look at, so I can’t imagine her difficulty in eating it, an endeavour
that didn’t progress very far. Home to expensive, flaccid
margaritas craftily clogged with ice and lemon slices, barely
a trace of tequila and rimmed with sugar (ay caramba), The
Mexican is a constant embarrassment. A vibrant atmosphere
where the waitresses have winning midriffs, this could be
a fun place for lads to have a few beers, but we strongly
advise against anything else. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Mon,
Tue 12:30 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. (15-50zł).
PTAEBXS
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Middle Eastern
Piramida B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48)
71 344 58 44, www.piramida-steakhouse.pl. Set
inside an interior consisting of Egyptian scrolls, fairy
lights and hieroglyphs the chefs at Piramida have
done their research (of the competition?) to bring you
the authentic dishes once enjoyed by the pharaohs:
pizza, kebabs with cabbage etc. Basically the poor
man’s Sphinx, when the former closes its doors, you’ll
always have Piramida to remind you why it didn’t last.
A second city centre location at ul. Św. Mikołaja 8.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-
54zł). PTJAGSW
Sphinx B-3, Rynek 39/40, tel. (+48) 71 795 77
30, www.sphinx.pl. Once considered by many Poles
as the height of sophistication, Sphinx’s nationwide
chain of identical restaurants offered cheap plates of
poorly cooked kebabs and steaks with heaps of cabbage
delivered to your table by amiable men dressed
as penguins. However, since bankruptcy has struck
the food corp, the once ubiquitous chain has all but
disappeared with this outing on Wrocław’s main square
being one of the doomed brand’s last Mohicans. Apparently
the appeal of rubbery steaks was strongest
in Wrocław where Sphinx has succeeded in spawning
numerous knock-offs that will remind you of what it was
like long after it’s gone. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (21-60zł).
PTJAUGBSW
Polish
Art Restauracja i Kawiarnia A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza
20, tel. (+48) 71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. A hotel
restaurant that would thrive even without its captive
audience of hotel guests. The vaulted interiors of Art
come decorated with light colours, timber beams and
wicker chairs, while visual distractions include a well,
local artwork and potted shrubbery in every conceivable
form. The menu does the rest with a strong line
in maritime delights and regional Polish cuisine in addition
to well-presented modern Italian dishes. QOpen
06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. (38-68zł).
PTJA6UGBSW
Chatka Przy Jatkach A-3, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel.
(+48) 71 342 72 20, www.chatkaprzyjatkach.eu.
This small, popular self-service Polish eatery, across
from the ul. Jatka gallery stalls, achieves the trick of
appearing like a rustic village cottage if you don’t notice
the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing the illusion is the
genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables (begging
to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden tables,
timber fittings and a thatched awning over the bar. The
menu - conveniently available in Polish, English and
German - features all the Polish classics, but take note
that almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average
food, this veteran chow house still makes a fine place for
a fast, local lunch if you can score a table. And they take
euros. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.
(10-25zł). AGBS
Dwór Polski A-3, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 48 96,
www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Decorated with stuffed
falcons and enough medieval armour and weaponry to
start a museum this is a suitably upmarket Old Town feed.
The menu focuses on boar, deer, pigs and ducks, all carved
up with pewter cutlery. If you’re a vegetarian, run. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (25-65zł). PTA6GBS
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
September - December 2012
45

46 RESTAURANTS
Milk Bars
A lot has changed over the years since communism got
knee-capped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destination
as popular as Wrocław hardly seems any more alien
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic
remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar. These
steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an endless
queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim
glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere
(and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom.
We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like
an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one.
Put the Racławice Panorama on hold, you’ll learn a lot more
about Poland by making a visit to the milk bar (‘bar mleczny’
in Polish) in what should be a required cultural experience
for anyone who has just set foot in the country.
Jacek i Agatka B-3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48) 71
344 24 55, www.jacekiagatka.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 -
18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (3-12zł). PJGB
Miś B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63.
No doubt named after the classic Polish comedy film
which caricatured milk bars during the communist era.
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
(5-14zł). JGB
Misz Masz B-2, ul. Nożownicza 14-16, tel. (+48)
71 343 90 67, www.barmiszmasz.pl. Slightly less
desperate than the average milk bar. QOpen 09:00 -
21:00. (6-11zł). PAGSW
Gospoda Wrocławska A-3, ul. Sukiennice 7, tel.
(+48) 71 342 74 56, www.restauracjekrawczyk.com.
pl. A traditional Polish restaurant featuring plenty of high
backed chairs, halberds, copper pans and the radio hits of
the 1980s, of course. The menu is standard medieval fare,
plus a fair amount of game, with dishes like ‘King August
II’s duck’ coming with apples and cranberries, plus dumplings
and cabbage, and arriving on a large wooden board.
A perfect place to loosen your belt and spill beer in your
beard. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-72zł). PTA6U
VGBSW
JaDka A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64
61, www.jadka.pl. Faultless modern and traditional Polish
cuisine with a Lithuanian influence served inside an ornate,
imperial backdrop featuring vaulted brick ceilings, timber
and starched linen. The concise menu won’t bowl you over,
but the class and quality will. Choose from catfish in leek
mousse with spinach (59zł), potato pancakes with smoked
salmon (46zł) or sieze the moment by ordering wild boar.
Expect an expansive wine list, professional service and an all
round commitment to excellence. One of the few world class
dining options in the city. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (53-83zł).
PTA6GSW
Karczma Lwowska A-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343
98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl. Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’
and dedicated not only to that formerly Polish city now lost
in the wilds of the Ukraine, but also to that thought-to-be
lost Polish ideal of a simple country lifestyle, this nostalgic
restaurant’s immaculately decorated interior is decked out
in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old photos and seems to
have a stuffed pheasant on almost every table. Designed for
day-long feasting, the menu of traditional Galician specialties
and game dishes from the charcoal grill looks like an
outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes
are charged separately, however the result is still a decent
value and evidence that not everything on the market square
is a tourist trap. The traditionally brewed Lwowskie beer on
draft comes straight from its namesake and is served in a
large ceramic beer stein. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (30-80zł).
PTJA6EBXSW
Kurna Chata A-2, ul. Odrzańska 17, tel. (+48) 71
341 06 68, www.kurnachata.pl. Newly fitted brown
windows hide one of the top budget choices you’ll stumble
across. Feast on platters of uncomplicated Polish delicacies
inside a chalet-like, pub atmosphere. The prices are
rock bottom, and the food is the sort of culinary genius
that only a grandmother could perfect, so be prepared
to wait around for a spare table. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.
(8-26zł). TJGBS
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn A-3, Rynek 26, tel. (+48) 71
344 14 15. This popular Polish franchise has found a place
on the market square, bringing with it a typical rustic interior
of timber fittings and burlap light fixtures. Taking that staple
of the national cuisine - stuffed dumplings or ‘pierogi’ - and
turning them into a tourist-fleecing cash crop, Pierogarnia
Stary Młyn specialises in baked dumplings, as opposed to
your traditional steamed variety. The menu is a meandering
visual mess, but offers a range of savoury, sweet, meat or veg
fillings, with your choice of sauces on the side. Choose from
wildly overpriced sets of 3 or 5 where adding an additional
individual pierog costs almost 8zł (baked) or 4zł (steamed). To
their credit, the individual dumplings are very large (start with
3) and tasty, but hardly traditional. The textbook definition of
a tourist trap, there are dozens of other places in Wrocław
where you can taste your first pierogi. QOpen 11:03 - 22:56.
(12-30zł). TAGBSW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Polish Food
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following
to the test:
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,
but it works like a miracle any day, especially an arctic
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish
restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this
prior to your meal. You only need ask.
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signature
soups; żurek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplings
thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.
Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.
Gołąbki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban
myth claims Poland’s King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the
Teutonic Order. The unlikely victory was attributed to the
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for including
Krakowska, a Kraków specialty which uses pepper and
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped
sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.
Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionally filled with meat,
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired
with lashings of sour cream. Again, all your traditional
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the
direction of the kitchen.
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale
baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it
with mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.
Best eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it:
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you
have visited their country.
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,
in this case pig’s blood mixed with groats, and is generally
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish
is Czernina, a soup made of duck’s blood mixed with poultry
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
September - December 2012
47

48 RESTAURANTS
Piwnica Świdnicka A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48)
71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Seems
things have gone downhill a bit since this place was opened
over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar in Europe.
Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer brewed in the
basement back in those days, today it serves primarily as
an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town
Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average
overpriced traditional food served by uncaring staff. Nonetheless
an Old Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very
least. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-75zł). PTAGBSW
Pod Fredrą A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13
35, www.podfredra.pl. A perfect introduction to traditional
Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval
Town Hall, Pod Fredro ably covers the spectrum of Polish
classics and even boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The
music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance
of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve
you in at least three languages (Polish, German or English).
The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and
international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes
being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggybag
whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). PTA6EBXSW
Pod Gryfami A-3, Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 89
ext.13, www.podgryfami.pl. The ground floor cafe of this
14th century townhouse has recently been extended with a
glass patio that even features a fireplace in winter, allowing
the artsy, academic clientele to continue their cloudy, wine
teeth conversations year-round. Should your stomach compel
you towards their well-regarded restaurant, you’ll descend
two disorienting levels below ground to an awkward labyrinthe
of ancient, sprawling cellars. Unfortunately the ambi-
ence of this fascinating space is a bit put off by an abundance
of random art on the walls and cheesy jazz and r’n’b music.
The food, however, is nothing to poke at, with pork, duck,
lamb and veal dominating the menu. The arrival of our entree
beneath a silver serving canopy only seemed silly until we
tasted it: the chef should take a bow. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (35-66zł). PTJA6IBXSW
Quchnia Polska A-3, Rynek 20-21, tel. (+48) 71 343
56 17, www.quchniapolska.pl. Obviously up market when
you enter, this place aims to combine innovative international
cuisine with classic Polish ingredients and additions. A cosy
interior with warm colours should be the law in Poland
with those biting winters - this place fits the bill perfectly.
Attractively restored features of the old building, including
(almost) flawless coving. It was a first for us, but the dish of
another diner in the restaurant looked so good that we just
had to have the same; the chicken with mushroom sauce is
excellent alongside cooked spinach and pan fried potatoes.
Flawless food for sure. Located on the main square, with
fittingly exceptional views. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:30. (21-69zł). PTAGBSW
Restauracja Monopol A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.
The return of this historical
building and its restaurant to Wrocław’s culinary scene is
surely something to be celebrated, particularly under the
savvy stewardship of Likus. Known under communism as the
most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, with queues stretching
outside the revolving doors and teams of bellboys shooing
away anyone not wearing a tie, menus and tableware would
frequently disappear into the pockets of souvenir hunters and
the restaurant’s reputation as a masterpiece was common
knowledge. Today that excellency is back in place with master
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes,
and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A
modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go. Q Open
07:00 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (44-64zł). PTAUGW
Spanish
Taverna Espaniola A-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71
344 65 62, www.taverna-espanola.com.pl. Six types of
paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish in abundance,
a superb veggie selection and a coveted location (including
terrific Rynek-side seating in season) all ensure that this
Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy patrons. Inside you
will find a vaulted room full of gloomy corners and a scary
mannequin dressed like a matador. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). JAGBS
Vegetarian
Green Way F-4, ul. Kuźnicza 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 341
90 98, www.greenway.pl. A canteen-style affair offering
decent fare to the health-conscious diner. Bites on show
include aubergine lasagne, enchiladas, vegetables in curry
sauce and pasta, and it’s very much hard to find fault with
anything. A bit lacking in atmosphere, this is a budget hero
and recognized as such by the students, eco-warriors and
modern mums who gather here. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. (10-17zł). PTAUGBSW
NEW
Machina Organika ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 534 08 83
60, www.machinaorganika.pl. Beyond simply vegetarian,
this exciting organic vegan eatery/cafe across from Pasaż
Niepolda offers very creative cuisine and a different menu every
day. For example, when we dropped in it was ‘avo-mango-carrot
soup with tomatoes, thyme and sunflower seeds’ (how can you
resist giving that a try?). In addition to the original vegan entrees,
salads and desserts, the drinks list goes beyond great coffee
and unpasteurised local beers to include a range of enticing
creations like avocado cocoa with almond milk, mango lassis
and watermelon tonics. Set over three levels (the downstairs
of which is decidely more loungey), Machina Organika also
features a lovely interior with timber ceilings, a long L-shaped
bar, wire light fixtures, plenty of potted plants and colourful tiles
work that almost gives it a bit of a hacienda feel. Between this
place and Złe Mięso we could happily never eat meat again.
Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. (20zł). A6UGSW
Vega B-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34,
www.vega-wroclaw.com.pl. Possibly the most modest place
you can eat on Wrocław’s market square, Vega offers little in
terms of atmosphere, with the decor of this canteen coming
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
courtesy of potted plants and adverts for kung-fu classes. Set
out over two floors, the upper of which is strictly vegan, the food
is cheap and good and consists primarily of meatless variations
on Polish food, ie. meatless cutlets, potato pancakes, majo
salads and more. Not the most creative grub you’ve had, but
how many vegan restaurants have you seen in PL, let alone on
the main square? Note that the vegan part has different opening
hours: 12:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (6-16zł). PTJA6GBSW
Złe Mięso (Evil Meat) B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel.
(+48) 71 794 85 40, www.zlemieso.pl. Say hello to Złe
Mięso: arguably Wrocław’s best vegetarian restaurant and the
adopted home of the city’s large alternative activist community
(and all their multi-tatted and pierced friends). Be greeted by a
friendly dog before choosing from the large menu of daily specials,
curries, casseroles, veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and
- something we’ve never seen before in PL - delicious seitan. Not
super cheap, but super good for you and the portions are huge.
The artsy industrial interior featuring graphic graffiti art, glasstopped
tables made from plywood and pallets, milk crate light
fixtures and electro music more befitting a nightclub also doubles
as a hip place to hang and drink local beer. Go veg out. QOpen
12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (12-19zł). P6GBSW
Have Your Say
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed
in this guide, or the dozens more that we list on our
website, let the millions of visitors to our website,
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every
venue online has a function for comments be they critical,
complimentary or comical, so spill it!
Kuchnia Marche (see Quick Eats)
Great idea for a restuarant, especially if you’re not sure what
to order, and you’re perhaps not wishing for a large meal.
When you just pay for what you wish for- everyone wins! Remember
though to keep the card with you at all times. If only
the owners could be persuaded to open a branch where I live!
Phil from Norwich, United Kingdom
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar (see Bars)
Hi there I visited Wroclaw few weeks ago and had this
pleasure to find Fika Cafe. I can honestly recomend this
place. It’s not expensive comparing to other places at the
market square ;they serve really good tasty coffee and I love
their smoothies. The size is unbelievable! The service was
good and in the evening when we came back there was a
party with a DJ performing in the window. Very nice place!
Anna from London, UK
September - December 2012
49

50
CAFÉS
Afryka Coffee Tea House A-3, ul. Kotlarska 32, tel.
(+48) 727 90 16 91, www.afrykacoffee.pl. In amongst
the exotic teas, gifts and other knicks and knacks that always
have us in wallet-out scenarios, Afryka does good tea and coffee
and - whisper it - cocktails. In fact, we have sat and watched as
Afryka has become the preferred ‘drinks-before-home’ venue for
Wroclaw’s classier ladies and gents. Long may it remain so. Also
at ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24 (A-3). QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun
08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. PJA6GBSW
Cafe Bar Monopol A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej 2
(Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 90, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.
On the ground floor of the peerless
Monopol, this upscale cafe/bar opens early and closes late
providing a perfect setting for the morning coffees, afternoon
teas and evening cocktails that the staff serve up with aplomb.
There’s even an extensive cigar collection if you really want to
fat cat it. Featuring columns, a dark marble bar, fresh flowers
and large windows that open up onto the street, the Monopol is
the perfect place to finalise business deals or take a break from
them entirely. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PTAUBXW
Cafe de France A-3, Rynek 20-22 1a, tel. (+48) 785
99 86 64. Small and slightly cramped with an awkward
seating arrangement that makes getting comfortable unnecessarily
difficult, this Parisian cafe is a casual place to
slow things down with delicious coffee or a glass of wine in
the evening from their respectable list. In terms of dining
you’ll find some decent breakfast options and you can pay in
whatever currency you want, but overall it’s rather overpriced
and nothing special. Plus you’re here to experience Wrocław,
not a Polish imitation of Paris. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PA6UGBW
Central Cafe E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71
794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Around the corner from
Pasaż Niepolda and open early - here’s a good place to start
your day. This American-style bakery cafe offers a blackboard
menu (in Polish and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast
options, including bagels and cream cheese, yogurt with
granola and honey, oatmeal loaded with yummy toppings,
pastries, cupcakes, quiche and more - all of it made on site
we’re told. Of course, there’s coffee and smoothies as well,
plus plenty of space to park it and observe the cute clientele
enjoying their oatmeal until your eyes are sufficiently wide
enough to take your sightseeing back into town. The spacious,
high-ceilinged, classic black-and-white interior also
serves as a great place to work or discuss business. QOpen
07:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. PTAUGSW
Juice Bars
Frankie’s B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 57, tel. (+48) 725
38 87 00. The only place of its kind in Wrocław, Frankie’s
takes a trend you’d expect to be popular with kids too
young to drink booze and health-conscious students on
their way home from yoga class and somehow makes it a
fashionable hangout for hip musicians and metrosexuals
with great hair. In addition to some really tasty sandwiches,
try fresh-squeezed juices and shakes combining
all kinds of raw ingredients from broccoli and carrot to
ginger and elderberry inside a stylish, modern interior full
of fashion and culture magazines, indy rock music and
a long marble bar with wall-length windows overlooking
the street. A sandwich and their special ‘hangover’ juice
formula is a great way to sure yourself up after a long
night, and get ready for the one ahead. QOpen 07:00 -
01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PTAVGBSW
Chocoffee B-2, ul. Więzienna 31, www.chocoffee.
com. Quite possibly the best cafe in Wrocław. Found on
the corner of Igielna, the exterior is painted with phrases
and variations of the word ‘chocolate’ in a dozen different
languages. Inside find a quiet, cosy cafe with fine marble
tables, classy wallpaper and comfy couches. A tantalising
number of chocolate and coffee concoctions are available,
hot or cold, to stay or to go. Not to mention the display full of
small sweets, truffles, fudge and other treats. Their chocolate
coffee with a scoop of vanilla ice cream? - the only reason
we get out of bed some days. A gem. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Mon 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:30.
PA6UGS
NEW
Cocofli E-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99
90. The name is a strained acronym for coexistence, cooperation,
friendship, love and identity, but we would have
gone with something along the lines of ‘cobobaga’ (coffee,
books, bar and gallery) to better get at the many facets of
this friendly establishment. Culture should probably be in
there somewhere as well, since this place has become a bit
of a meeting place for it. Creating an antiquated intellectual
aesthetic thanks to a mish-mash of furnishings including a
wall-length bookshelf, old telephone switchboard, and unique
decorative art with portraits of luminairies from Wrocław’s
Jewish past, Cocofli’s selection of comics and children’s
books will make you wish you spoke Polish. Here it’s possible
to get your coffee with rice, soy or almond milk, or enjoy a
glass of wine or a local microbrew. Only a couple doors down
from the very similar Wydawnictwo, which we’re informed will
close in mid-September, Cocofli is ready, willing and worthy of
picking up the slack. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:30,
Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAUGBW
Coffee Planet A-3, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 71 796 45
40, www.coffeeplanet.pl. Much more than the corporate
coffee franchise the name suggests, this smart venue has
an artsy atmosphere, a great choice of caffeine highs and
cocktail considerations, a dance-floor and weekly events
that include DJ sets, photo exhibits and even drag queen
shows. Crowded with couples, lap-toppers and after-work
unwinders throughout the day and night, Coffee Planet is one
of the better all-around venues on Wrocław’s market square.
QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
PA6BXSW
Czekoladziarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel.
(+48) 71 797 57 16, www.czekoladziarnia.com.
pl. Filled with grinding contraptions and the rich smell
of roasted coffee beans, everyone from empty-nesters
to first-daters fill this place. Dimly lit and equipped with
a few sofas this is a top choice if you’ve got an hour
to lose. The name refers to the numerous sweets and
treats found behind the counter, including the option of
enjoying a chocolate fountain, while local artists have
opened a women’s fashion boutique (‘Ubieralnia,’ open
Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-14:00) in the adjoining
salon. Making it even better, they now also offer Czech
beer for those whose weakness isn’t for sweets. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. TAGSW
Falanster E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48)
609 66 13 30, www.falanster.pl. One of Wrocław’s
most switched-on venues, this hip hangout takes on
many guises, including gallery, bookstore, free trade
cafe, concert venue, and counter-culture meeting
grounds, wearing all of them well simultaneously, and
with complete seriousness. Head here to hang with local
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
artists and activists, while enjoying delicious coffee and
perusing an expanding selection of English-language
books from Kraków’s Massolit. Recommended. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
A6EGSW
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar F-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 71 790
40 92, www.cafefika.pl. If you’re looking for an upscale
café with summer seating on the square, a chic interior, Italian
food, coffee and cocktails…well, there’s a few to choose from
at this point. But Fika stands out with a spacious modern
interior, great coffee, light breakfast options, subtle music
and some stellar window seating when it’s too frigid to take
a table outside. Alternatively, head downstairs where you’ll
find a second bar and warmer atmosphere (and you won’t
have to look at those head-scratch-worthy floor to ceiling
photos of a vampy teenage girl). QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,
Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
PTA6GBSW
Kalaczakra B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 372
35 71 ext. 35. A budget beauty, with stone clad flooring
juxtaposed against walls of weird artwork, dimmed lighting
and gentle looking yogic folk. Run by the same people
behind the next door Kalambur, so expect much of the
same spaced-out spirit, as well as an array of healthy,
planet-conscious eats. Check out their film screenings for
something really potty. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 -
24:00. T6UGBSW
Kawiarnia Literatka A-3, Rynek 56/57, tel. (+48)
71 341 80 13, www.kawiarnialiteratka.pl. A splendid
cafe/bar on the main square, patrons can be seen and
seem book-smart under the outside awning or retreat
into the two-floor interior filled with framed portraits of
literary luminaries and ceiling to floor shelves straining
under the weight of Polish hardbacks. Decorated with
dark wood furnishings, red drapes, chandeliers and an
illuminated globe, Literatka’s artsy elegance outclasses
most market square options, and has become a favourite
place for puffers since the smoking ban. Shame that
the music sometimes lets the show down, or we would
spend most of our time there. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
A6BXSW
Milano Piu F-4, ul. Świdnicka 4a-6, tel. (+48) 600 00
64 84, www.milanopiu.com. Another stylish red, white
and mahogany Italian masterpiece just off the Rynek on
Świdnicka. The fancy décor and wait-staff make it almost
too classy to be dubbed merely a café. The menu is exactly
what you would expect for an Italian establishment here in
Poland, although it’s bigger than your typical café. Inside you’ll
find a picturesque homage to the city of Milan, and they even
accept Italian currency (euros) if you’re too lazy to change
your money and want to pay extra. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PAUGBSW
Monsieur Cafe A-3, ul. Więzienna 31, tel. (+48) 71
313 11 92, www.monsieurcafe.com.pl. This charming
pseudo-French cafe is a great place to start a day in
Wrocław, dimly gazing out the street side windows with the
morning’s first cuppa. Though they don’t serve ‘breakfast’
per se (that would be anti-European or something), there’s
a great daily ‘lunch special’ that basically serves that
function: a slice of quiche or panini sandwich with tea or
coffee and a green vitamin shot. For those more interested
in the hair of the dog than drinking grass, check out the
nice beer selection or French wine list. Croissants, muffins
and fresh-squeezed juice are also at hand. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. PTA6GBW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
CAFÉS
Muffiniarnia B-2, ul. Szewska 27 - 27a, tel. (+48)
605 16 15 14. Greatly benefiting from a larger space cleverly
located next door to the comparably cheek-pinchingly
cute Słodkie Czary Mary candy workshop, this colourful
cupcake cafe is savouring the sweet taste of success.
Though the interior is less precious than previously, it’s
still all rainbow candy stripes and cupcake knick-knacks.
In addition to the selection of muffins (chocolate, caramel,
berry) and fashionable cupcakes for 5zł - a fair price
compared to similar baked good boutiques in Kraków and
Wawa - there’s now proper coffee available, as well as
shakes and smoothies (our Oreo shake was delicious).
That there’s a steady flow of walk-ins to try to these
small, adorable indulgences is hardly a surprise: they’re
cheap, chic and tasty. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. PA6UGSW
Sufi Cafe B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 65/66, tel. (+48) 881
58 49 49. Unlike your typical Polish ‘cafe’ that blurs
the lines between cafe and bar, combining coffee and
beer, civil conversation and boisterous boozing under
one roof, Sufi Cafe is having none of that business. This
dead serious cafe celebrates only one thing and that’s
the coffee bean. With a variety of roasts and brewing
methods, Sufi should satisfy even the most exacting
connoisseurs. A subtly Eastern interior of gold walls,
scalloped arches and Islamic chanting as background
music evoke the quiet, calming atmosphere that makes
Sufi a great place for finding the inner peace that the
name suggests - be it by concentrating over a computer
in the front, or meditating with a book in the cushioned
second room. Best coffee in Wrocław? Sufi is certainly
on the short-list. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 21:00. PAGBSW
September - December 2012
51

52 NIGHTLIFE
Nightlife at a Glance
COCKTAILS: Way too many to mention, but notes of
distinction go to Wrocław stalwarts Paparazzi, Novocaina
and Pod Papugami. Bed Club and Stardust
are currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity
spotting and being seen.
STUDENTS: The courtyards off ul. Ruska, particularly
Pasaz Niepolda, are full of student bars and clubs with
Niebo standing out as the area’s most damn-thetorpedoes
dawn-breaker. Szajba and Manana are two
of the best locales for spontaneous booty-shaking, or
visit Mleczarnia to mingle with a more civilised crowd.
LADS: Guinness for football and a pint of Black Gold,
while for rowdier revelry Spiz and Bierhalle ably
serve their roles with extra sausages. Head to Pasaz
Niepolda off ul. Ruska (E-3) for the easiest insider pub
crawl in town.
COUPLES: Paparazzi is not the poseur paradise it
sounds, but a perfect place to kick off your evening with
a romantic drink. A glass of wine and panoramic views
at La Terazza is also a smart move. Head to Salvador
as things get more intimate before finishing the night
with jazz at Ragtime or a turn on the dancefloor at
Schody Donikąd.
ALTERNATIVE: Wrocław has an admirable indy/alt
scene with Niskie Łąki being the choice for new wavers,
Kultowa for grunge rockers, and Stefa Zero the ultimate
dive for tattooed head-bangers. Drop in Złe Mięso (see
Restaurants) to join the vegan activist crowd.
Smoking
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU countries
with no prohibitions on smoking, a new law put into
effect on November 15th, 2010 finally limited smoking
in public places. Smoking is now completely banned in
Poland on public transport, transport stops and stations,
schools and universities, workplaces, sports arenas and
other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged
to place a clear and visible ‘No Smoking’ sign and anyone
caught smoking by either the police or local city guards
(Straż Miejska) is supposedly subject to a 500zł fine.
However, in the case of bars, clubs, restaurants and
other public places, the law states that there can be
a separate room for smokers as long as it is properly
ventilated and closed off from the other public areas. In
response to the controversial legislation, many owners
have exercised their right to create a small smoking
room, however others have made the majority of their
establishment smoker-friendly with only a small area set
aside for non-smokers. Due to a lack of enforcement,
some establishments openly flout the law by allowing
smoking wherever they want. As such, while smoking
in public places in Poland has been greatly reduced, it
still continues in many places. To help you find or avoid
places which continue to allow smoking on the premises
we have used the following symbols throughout the guide:
G This place has a complete smoking ban on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Wroclaw bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing
times are, most will stay open until the last customer has
crawled out. The lion’s share are concentrated around the
Old Town market square, but for more alternative drinking
destinations also check out the tippler’s strip below the
ul. Bogusławskiego train tressle (F-5), and destinations
west of the market square, namely ul. Włodkowica (A-4),
the courtyards off ul. Ruska (E-4) and the secrets of the
old train station on Plac Orląt Lwowskich (E-4). Happy
hangover.
Bars & Pubs
Casa de la Musica A-3, Rynek Ratusz 11/12,
tel. (+48) 71 343 72 62, www.casadelamusica.pl.
Recently doubling its size to take in a second floor, this fun
Cuban-themed music club takes all the best aspects of
Cuban culture, sparing patrons glorified portraits of Che
in preference for colourful framed cigar labels, an antique
cash register and proper mojitos. With Latin DJs playing
passionate salsa, rumba and merengue music, the lack
of a designated dancefloor upstairs doesn’t stop anyone
from cutting a rug; in fact the smooth DJs often leave their
station to take local lasses in hand and put on a dancing
clinic. If you know how to move to this music, consider yourself
money in the bank; if not, be careful - or your girlfriend
will have the time of her life while you sit and shrug down a
beer. Chump. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00.
PAEXW
Chopper Bar F-4, ul. Kotlarska 42, tel. (+48) 71 330
65 54, www.chopperhostel.pl. We typically steer clear
of this sort of place - and with a tacky design approach
that basically involves covering everything, including the
facade of the building, in motor collage wallpaper, Chopper
Bar looks about as dreadful as you can imagine - but we’re
willing to admit we enjoyed the experience. Attached to the
hostel of the same name, Chopper Bar offers good food
(including decent chili), great beer (including Czech Primator
and Litovel on draft) and the ability to watch manly pursuits
(like bull-riding) on the TV while enjoying the sounds of Guns
N Roses. If that’s not up your alley, well what did you think
coming in here? If you order a large beer prepare for it to be
1lt, and each one comes with a free chicken wing. Though
the industrial decor of license plates and bike parts is hardly
original, the bathrooms are practically a museum and the
weekends host concerts and jam sessions. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (15-39zł). AGBSW
Graciarnia Pub A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39,
tel. (+48) 71 795 66 88, www.graciarnia.com.pl. If
you want to drink among students wearing big beads and
striped stockings, then head to Graciarnia, where decoration
surely comes courtesy of an abandoned ship. Here it’s
all tables that shake and wobble, sofas where every spring
is felt, headless mannequins, theatre costumes and scarlet
walls throughout an endless series of unique rooms where
an obscure musical menu matches the beatnik mood.
If you like Mleczarnia, you’ll love Graciarnia - perfect for
cuddling your date on an antique loveseat and looking like
the heights of hip indy culture at the same time. QOpen
15:00 - 01:00. ABXW
Guinness A-3, Pl. Solny 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 60
15, www.pubguinness.pl. This Polish-owned Irish pub
isn’t the most authentic place in the world, but it plays
its role just fine as flypaper for foreigners and football
fans thanks to being just about the only place in town
where you’re likely to find your match on the tube. True to
its name they do serve the Black Nectar, but there have
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
been times when we’ve wanted to give the staff a hand
by pouring it ourselves; at a hefty 17zł we feel like we’ve
paid for the right. Set over two levels serving up decent
pub grub and live music some evenings, Guinness is a
solid choice for a successful night out, as surely proven
by the common sight of grown men crying and hugging/
holding each other up outside the front entrance. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. PJAEBXW
il Gusto A-3, ul. Św Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00
11, www.ilgusto.pl. Perfectly located to catch the spill-off
from the ever-popular Mañana upstairs, Il Gusto is up to the
challenge with a likeminded playlist of funk, Bowie remixes,
MJ and other danceable hits. With a makeshift dancefloor
in front of the long bottle-lined bar, the crowd kicks it out
amidst a large, modern space of frosty mirrors and plush
black booths. The interior is a balance of industrial, rustic
and straight chillout - the only regret being an overabundance
of close-up photos of guitars being wanged. Serving as a
relaxed restaurant during the day, with a seasonal summer
garden when the sun appears, after hours il Gusto attracts
a slightly more mature crowd, though they hardly behave that
way. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 04:00. PAGB
John Bull Pub A-3, Pl. Solny 6/7a, tel. (+48) 71
344 25 20. A classic British pub in style and intention
from the wooden bar to the wallpaper, framed fox-hunting
scenes and wainscotting, this is a perfectly decent place
for a drink, and surprisingly free of tourists and expats
thanks to their favouring of neighbouring Guinness and its
precious TV sets. No ales on hand save for the pricey but
satisfying John Bull Bitter and Blonde, but here you’ll find
the largest selection of whiskeys in Wrocław. Small, intimate
and cosy, stop in for a quiet drink, but don’t expect a social
atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 02:00.
PJAUGBW
Kredance A-3, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48) 601 75 74
11, www.kredance.eu. Remarkable for having taken a step
backwards in terms of taste - from the assured bohemian
atmosphere of ‘Kredens’ to the brainless Drunk Olympic time
trials of ‘Kredance’ - this underground space is more popular
than ever before, packed with students barking over each
other to be heard and no spare seats in sight. The random
interior is virtually unchanged save for the disappearance
of one of the bars and the two large cabinets angled across
what used to be the dance-floor (a curious innovation given
the name is a play on the Polish for ‘cupboard’). With some
kind of musical act each night including DJs Thursday to
Sunday, this is a lot of fun. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. Note that
once the summer garden closes they will be open from 16:00
each day. PAEBXW
Kultowa B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. (+48) 71 794
92 91, www.kultowa.pl. As far as tributes go, this underground,
alternative rock bar is a lot better than most cover
bands. An homage to legendary Polish anti-establishment
rockers ‘Kult,’ this namesake bar is covered in classic
rock posters and paraphernalia which literally reverberate
on the brick walls to the wail of grunge and rock anthems.
Featuring a summer patio bar, cheap beer, red-varnished
candlelit tables and an interpretation of the smoking ban
that favours puffers, Kultowa is essentially a dingy, dive bar
of the best kind. For a different kind of dance party, hit the
‘Rockoteka’ on Friday and Saturday nights. The steep stairs
leading back up to daylight read “Ja tu jeszcze wróce” (‘I will
come back here again’) and have proven prophetic time
and again. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00.
PAEBXW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Breakfast
NIGHTLIFE
Not a popular meal in Poland, breakfast means a
cigarette and coffee to most, or if you’re lucky a plate
of ham, cheese, tomato and bread. The concept of
cooking a hot meal in the morning has yet to get this far
east, but Soho (see International restaurants) claims to
serve breakfast all day, BLT & Flatbreads offers proper
American pancakes and we are partial to starting the
day at Mleczarnia. What sadly has made it this far is
Starbucks - now open from 06:30 on the Rynek - and
old McDonald’s, serving their McBreakfast from 07:00
to 10:30 on the McMarket square.
Art Restauracja i Kawiarnia A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza
20, tel. (+48) 71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. The
Art Hotel’s Swedish-style breakfast buffet offers hot
dishes along with plenty of ecological, organic products
and traditional Lower Silesian specialties. Open to
walk-ins, they will also gladly organise special business
breakfasts. Q Breakfast served 06:30 - 10:30, Sat,
Sun 07:00 - 10:30. (60zł). PTJA6UGBSW
Bernard B-3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54,
www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. On offer find scrambled
eggs, sausages, muesli with fruit, grilled sandwiches
and more. Q Breakfast served 10:30 - 12:00. (14-27zł).
PTA6UBXSW
BLT & Flatbreads A-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48)
71 796 33 44, www.blt.wroclaw.pl. Okay, so it’s not
open early exactly, but BLT has some of the best breakfast
options around. Choose from American-style pancakes
with strawberry sauce and maple syrup, French toast with
crispy bacon, omelettes and toasted sandwiches. A great
deal any time of day. Q Breakfast served 10:00 - 13:00,
Sun 11:00 - 13:00. (10-15zł). PAUGBSW
Cafe de France A-3, Rynek 20-22 1a, tel. (+48)
785 99 86 64. This Parisian cafe has delicious coffee
and a light menu including some limited breakfast offerings
like scrambled eggs, crepes, croissants and toasted
sandwiches. Not as great as it could be, but better than
most by having something that passes as breakfast at all.
Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. (8-35zł). PA6UGBW
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71
787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. Find a range
of well prepared breakfast sets including egg breakfast,
sausage breakfast and a cream cheese breakfast. Q
Breakfast served 08:00 - 13:00. (9-18zł). TABXW
Moloco B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 341
01 32, www.moloco.pl. Another offering a series of
breakfast sets named English, Polish, Country, French
and Champion. Q Breakfast served 07:00 - 13:00,
Sun 09:00 - 13:00. (15-20zł). PTAUGBSW
Złota A-3, Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 71 716 59 29. A nice
range of options here including omelettes, ciabattas, and
larger breakfast sets. The English breakfast is admirable
with two large fried eggs, two kinds of sausage, toast
and bacon. There’s also a ‘Gigant’ breakfast for those
who need an extra ration to fully soak up the previous
nights liquids, and the market square seating is sublime.
Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:00. (15-27zł).
PTA6UGBSW
September - December 2012
53

54 NIGHTLIFE
Breweries
Bierhalle A-3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601 67
74 52, www.bierhalle.pl. In a battle with Spiż for best local
microbrewery, do your drinking under the parasols of their
prime Rynek real estate during the sunny season, retreating
into the restaurant during those six months of the year when
wilful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing Wrocław’s
long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all on-site and a
lot better than the neighbours with wheat, pilsner and dark
beers among those on draft. Prices are aimed at German
tourists, and lager lovers that they are you’ll find plenty
of them happy to pay for the privilege of a good ale. If it’s
game day, you’ll find Bierhalle’s plethora of teles to be your
best bet for catching the match. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri
11:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. From
November open 11:00 - 24:00. PAGBW
Spiż Brewery A-3, Rynek Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71
344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. After losing some ground in
the Breslau best beer debate to Bierhalle, Spiż seems
to have picked up the slack by unveiling a few new brews
which combined with their caramel and honey beers,
should be enough to convince your ladyfriend to give
it a go. With seven unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in
total, you should find something to your taste, though
beer enthusiasts are a bit split about the quality. Though
the staff are often engaged in open hostilities with the
patrons, a free table in the summer beer garden is still
a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in
the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spiż is still considered
a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps Wrocław’s
most recognisable bar. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. PJABXW
Jazz Clubs
Collosseum Jazz Caffe B-4, ul. Piotra Skargi
18a, tel. (+48) 781 55 92 22, www.jazzcaffe.com.
pl. Located underground beneath the haunting (and we
had thought abandoned) arcades of Partisan Hill, this
long, narrow, crescent-shaped bar is as unique a venue
as you’ll find anywhere. Suitably classy for the historical
space it occupies, the brick interior comprises several
booths, a long bar and a small stage at the far end where
local jazzsmiths perform on Fridays and Saturdays (and
sometimes Wednesdays). While often packed during
performances, you’ll have your run of the place when the
stage is empty and with daily food specials, Czech Primator
on draught, microbrews in the fridge and an absolute
peach running the place, we wouldn’t mind. A great venue
waiting to be discovered. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 04:00. PAUEGBW
Ragtime A-3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 01,
www.ragtimecafe.pl. In the years we’ve been visiting
Ragtime not much has changed, only a few more grey
hairs on the patrons. This is an engaging endeavour that
refuses to follow fashions and as such has a charismatic
personality of its own. Vermillion walls are home to all
manner of visual diversions, from framed pics of jazz
gods to a collection of musical instruments. A wrought
iron mezzanine level allows the opportunity to admire
all the clutter and the regular Tuesday, Wednesday and
Thursday live jazz nights are not to be missed and are free
to enter. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJAEBXW
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788
24 48, www.mle.pl. We’ve been mainstays at this dusky,
back-street, candlelit pub since our first days in town. Hidden
in an enchanting courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue
and a glorious oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic,
while the sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed
sketches captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better
than anywhere else in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A
bohemian mix of local academics, hipsters and hostelers
drink through the debate topics of the day while an excellent
mix of ethnic and indy music (always played at just the
right level) drifts through the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the
kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to
actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too. QOpen
08:00 - 04:00. JAEBXW
Niebo E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71
342 98 67, www.niebocafe.pl. As long as you keep drinking,
Niebo will stay open, and this has become an after-hours
cult classic packed with students obliterating scholarships
well after dawn; when one drops off there’s three more to
replace them. A long, dog-eared, scarlet and blue bar full of
random art photos and oddities, Niebo is the start and finish
point for many Ruska pub crawls, so you’ll have to step over
a few casualties on your way to the dancefloor, pumping your
fist to the classic rock and 90s anthems. With Guinness on
tap for 16zł, you don’t really need to do much better than
this. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00, Mon 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
13:00 - 08:00. PJAUEBXW
Niskie Łąki E-4, ul. Ruska 46c, tel. (+48) 515 61 99
40. Work your way deeper and deeper into a certain Ruska
rabbithole/courtyard and you may notice the door to this
windowless underground counter-culture centre in the midst
of all the graffiti art. An anchor of Wrocław’s alternative scene
following the mantra “Love Music, Hate Racism,” Niskie Łąki
is full of colourful stockings and DIY haircuts with randomly
painted tables and walls, avant-garde art exercises including
roses pinned to the ceiling and an enormous glowing Mickey
Mouse behind the bar. The actual barman, meanwhile, can be
found carousing with his friends, so let someone know if you
need a drink. Here it’s all about music as much as attitude,
with new wave, punk, alternative and indy rock getting airtime,
as well as occassional live concerts, film screenings and
other happenings. Recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. AEGBW
Paparazzi F-4, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341
04 85, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Find a hyper cool crowd
of platinum airheads and local hotshots dressed in collars
and cufflinks in one of the best bars in the city. A rectangular
bar is the centerpiece from which black clad hipsters mix
cocktails with fatal precision, though any headache the
next day is just as likely to be the doing of the steel column
positioned right outside the gents; you have been warned.
Grand colonnades support the ceiling, black and white prints
of film icons cling to the walls and sexy music pipes in the
distance; this is designer drinking exactly the way it should be.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00,
Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PJAUBXW
Pociąg A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 77, tel. (+48) 500
18 81 60. This Bogusławskiego veteran isn’t dissimilar
from the area’s other winners, following (or inaugurating,
perhaps) the general formula of candlelight, unplayable
instruments, rickety repossessed furnishings and a divey
saloon atmosphere aided by the card table on the ceiling and
a few revolvers about in case you feel the urge to challenge
someone’s honour. Named ‘Pociąg’ (Train) after the carriages
rumbling overhead, the excellent, eclectic soundtrack jumps
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
from Tom Petty to the Coasters to Triplets of Belleville without
missing a beat as the crowd of bohemian savants sip Czech
Litovel and Holba beers on draught. Catch that train. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. AGB
Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71
343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Packed with
wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami still manages to rate
as one of the top drinkeries in town. Squeeze among the local
stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels,
projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Live music most
nights, and the performances are usually very good indeed.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 -
01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. JAEGBW
Pub Pod Zielonym Kogutem A-4, Pl. Teatralny 8, tel.
(+48) 71 342 01 87, www.zielonykogut.pl. A bit difficult
to describe, this one, but highly likable and easily the best
bar in the vicinity of the Opera House. A large, high-ceilinged
room, Under the Green Rooster is designed to look like it’s
outside with faux-windows set high in the walls as diners
and drinkers enjoy draught Murphy’s, cheap pizzas and
grilled ribs under unnecessary parasols and streetlamps.
Cluttered with a vast collection of antique knick-knacks (and
that conspicuous cock over the bar), an easy pub atmosphere
is effected; so easy it would seem, that the service excuses
itself for disappearing routinely. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Fri
15:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. PABXW
Salvador A-3, Pl. Solny 16 (entrance from ul. Szajnochy),
tel. (+48) 784 35 73 68, www.salvador.pl. Basement bar
just off Pl. Solny featuring dark scarlet corners, low level seating
and wild parties that only conclude after several students
have attempted to pull drunken dance moves on the tables.
Living up to its title there’s plenty of Dali associated weirdness
on the walls, with sometimes profane photography and other
random acts of art. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00,
Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PABXW
Schody Donikąd (Stairs to Nowhere) A-3, Pl. Solny
13, tel. (+48) 71 341 84 55, www.schodydonikad.pl.
An enormous bohemian hangout in what must have once
been quite an immaculate private residence, Schody Donikąd
has restored it to a sort of absinthe-infused grandeur with
frilly bell-shaped lampshades laying down the lowlight, mismatching
antique furnishings you wouldn’t want to spill a drink
on, oriental rugs, ornate chandeliers, a couple of columns and
the glorious woodwork of the original staircase and balustrades;
if you like Graciarnia, you may have a new fave here.
With live music nights, a regular playlist of sophisticated,
seldom heard 70s R&B and jazzy 80s hip-hop, unpasteurised
Tyskie on draught and an admirable cocktail list, this one’s
a winner out of the gates and highly recommended. QOpen
14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. PAEGBW
Speakeasy A-3, Rynek Główny 8, tel. (+48) 510 22
23 33, www.speakeasy.com.pl. An unusual venue, and
less like a swinging Prohibition-era nightclub than a discreet
back-door social club, this dim grey bar has an oddly industrial
interior decorated with Godfather quotes and Al Capone’s
death certificate, as well as a screen showing Eliot Ness-era
film reels. Doubling as a bookshop selling crime and mystery
novels (including used English language tomes for 10zł),
Speakeasy’s drink list is heavy on whiskey and bourbon and
wins points by starting off with the ‘Old Fashioned.’ The music,
however, is nothing more than smooth contemporary jazz.
Devoid of kitsch, but inconsistent in execution, as a theme bar
it fails, succeeding instead as a curious place for a quiet drink
with a date. Perfectly likable while being a letdown. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. AEGBW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Live Music
NIGHTLIFE
Wrocław boasts a great and growing music scene that
is probably the best in southern Poland. Well positioned
between Warsaw, Prague and Berlin, Wrocław has become
a favoured destination for touring international artists, with
Centennial Hall hosting large-scale music events for
almost a hundred years now. The city is home to dozens
of local artists who perform regularly in its bars and clubs,
and we’ve listed the surest bets for catching a live performance
below. In addition to the city’s jazz clubs (which
we’ve given a separate section to) and those listed here,
other great live music venues that are worthy of investigation
include Puzzle Klub, Kultowa, Pod Papugami and
Nietota. To find out what specific concerts are happening
when you’re in town, check our Events calendar.
Alive E-5, ul. Kolejowa 12, tel. (+48) 519 89 47
69, www.alive.wroclaw.pl. One of Wrocław’s primary
live venues, nightly acts range from punk and hardcore
to alternative rock, with roots reggae and regular jam
sessions in between. Full of bottles, beer ads, band
photos and the local leather brethren all crammed into
two vaulted rooms under the train tressle across from
Zieliński Market, Alive is as intimate and authentic as they
come, and with many of the gigs free, it’s worth a try on
an otherwise aimless night. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Thu
13:00 - 03:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW
Eter Club A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19, tel.
(+48) 797 33 96 68, www.eterclub.pl. If you’re sick
of brick cellars, head to this thoroughly modern marvel for
a lesson in grand dance-club design. One of the city’s top
venues, Eter (Ether in English) looks the part with dazzling
professional lighting and an incredible sound system - put
to good use while hosting some of Wrocław’s best concerts
and events. Spread over two underground levels
with five bars, chill out on the splendid upstairs mezzanine
overlooking the stage/dance-floor sofas before heading
down into dance-floor carnage with an unpretentious
crowd determined to take full advantage of the weekend.
Open on weekends and during special events, check their
website to see what’s on. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAUEXW
Firlej E-5, ul. Grabiszyńska 56, tel. (+48) 71 795
66 67, www.firlej.wroc.pl. One of Wrocław’s best
kept secrets. In The Know art students and wannabe
playwrights fill this top-notch venue during legendary
live shows. The interiors won’t inspire flights of artistic
creativity - you’ll find many hotel bars with more daring
decorations - but the atmosphere is electric. If you get the
opportunity don’t hesitate to catch a show in Wrocław’s
best concert venue. Q Open only during concerts. Check
their website to see what’s on. PEGW
Od Zmierzchu Do Świtu A-3, ul. Krupnicza 15
(Hala Gwardii), tel. (+48) 71 796 30 76, www.
odzmierzchudoswitu.pl. A superb vaulted venue with
motorbikes standing behind the bar, and even a car
chassis bursting from one of the walls. This labyrinthine
complex has no problem with atmosphere, least not
when its brick rooms crowd out for their live music
concerts, which range from young local acts Weds) to
wild rock nights and blues bandstands lapped up by
beret-wearing music fans. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00, Tue,
Wed 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PEBXW
September - December 2012
55

56 NIGHTLIFE
Polish Friends of Beer Party
Sure, it started out as
a joke: In 1990 satirist
Janusz Rewinski formed
the Polish Friends of
Beer Party (Polska
Partia Przyjaciol Piwa
or PPPP in Polish) to
promote the country’s
second most beloved
polskapartianarodowa.org
beverage during the
new shift in government. The concept was popular
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Poland’s
democratic transition after the end of communism a
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke – their slogan
regarding the party running Poland: “it wouldn’t be
better but for sure it would be funnier” – evolved into
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less
humorous Polish Economic Program. Today little
remains of the group except for well-earned entries
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a
better standard of living.
Strefa Zero (Laki Zaki) E-4, ul. Ruska 47/48a,
tel. (+48) 667 69 80 08. One courtyard removed from
the well-traversed Pasaż Niepolda you’ll find a few more
dens of debauchery, including this gem. Strefa Zero is the
ultimate alternative (literally underground) dive bar filled
with dreadlocks, leather jackets, students, bartenders
with fresh tattoos, old heads and howling women holding
each other up/embracing around a ‘no liquor left behind’
policy. The grey brick and cinderblock walls have been
completely covered in collage, graffiti and chaotic mural
art with furnishings as dark as the unhinged atmosphere.
The music is a mix of just about everything, except what
goes by ‘black music’ around these parts, and you might
stumble upon a live concert or improvisational theatre
performance. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 -
04:00. EGW
Szajba A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4, tel. (+48) 660 40
42 70, www.szajba.wroclaw.pl. Hidden one courtyard
east of Mleczarnia, this large, versatile high-ceilinged
club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s large demographic of
hipsters who create happenings. Old 50s and 60s radios
with glowing gummy bear lamps atop them line the walls
above old framed advertisements and prints by local artists.
The furnishings, as you can guess, are more of the
same attic antiques you find in many such places, with
candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty of room
for large groups. Outdoor seating, an eclectic alternative
playlist, extensive exotic drink list and free wi fi are just a
few more of the reasons Szajba is a great place to pass
time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying themselves, as
our coffee came with a near-complete tic-tac-toe board
drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the winning
stroke. A great find. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 04:00. AUEGBW
NEW
The Winners Pub E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48)
519 54 18 94, www.thewinnerspub.pl. As far as sports
bars go, this is the best thing to happen in Wrocław for a long
time and well overdue. A nice balance is struck between the
intimate, modern interior of creme-coloured booths, all with
a good view of one of the 10 flatscreens (they also have a
projector), and the antiquated black and white sports photo
wallpaper and outdated athletic equipment on the walls.
There’s also a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of
modern American food, with the specialty being steaks fried
on a hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes
from young ladies who are clearly runway models on their off
days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack
of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well as
a share of Wrocław’s best beer garden in front of the White
Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative, we’d
say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. PABXW
Włodkowica 21 E-4, ul. Włodkowica 21, tel. (+48)
71 784 48 18, www.wlodkowica21.com. The preferred
watering hole for smokers and kids who look like they’ve
just finished band practice, this fantastic boozer features
bare bricks walls with empty picture frames, rickety furnishings
and love seats with the springs sticking out. Every
bit the hipster haven, find a chill hangout with a groovy
playlist in the afternoons and a loud, smoky, somewhat
sloppy circus at night, when the tiny bar can lead to long
queues for a drink. The huge space is almost entirely
given over to smokers so be prepared to play the square
if you’re not as rock and roll as the crowd. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
PAUEBXW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Clubs
Antidotum F-4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 32, tel. (+48) 603 03
94 31, www.antidotumclub.pl. Set inside a network of
underground tunnels just off the market square, Antidotum
has established itself as one of Wrocław’s most reliable
clubs for a memorable night out. With two dance-floors,
two bars and several VIP sections, the space looks great
with a design that’s kept to scrubbed stone walls, stripped
wood floors, modern lighting and deep sofas, and filled
with a fervent crowd of Miss Polska candidates. Though
with the safe selection of club house tunes and occasional
disco anthem there are few surprises in the DJ’s bag, this
venue is still an ample ‘antidote’ for anyone who thinks that
Wrocław’s nightlife isn’t top-notch. Q Open 15:00 - 04:00.
Closed Sun. From November 16 open 18:00 - 04:00. Closed
Sun. PAUGBW
Bed Club F-4, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 71 372 58 01, www.
bedclub.pl. Easily the most luxurious, exclusive, and overthe-top
posh club in Wroclaw, Bed’s three-letter title belies
its grand and lavish interior. There are five areas including
the smoking room, the outdoor garden, the chill-out room,
the main dance-floor and - of course - the VIP room. Each
has a swanky yet vaguely cosmic East-Asian appeal, with
incense and the glow of candle-light omnipresent. Reserve
anything you can in advance and come well-dressed or not
at all. Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday, you won’t
find a hotter or more exclusive club, but you’ve got to pay to
play (typically 20-25zł). If you’ve got one night set aside to go
celebrity-hunting, or just to get decked out and rub shoulders
with hotties and big-wigs, go to Bed (so to speak). Q Open
Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. PAEBXW
Bezsenność (Insomnia) E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż
Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 792 80 48, www.bezsennoscklub.com.
The Ruska courtyard is hot news, and Bezsenność
is the cherry on the cake. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles
gather amid a decadent background of comfy sofas, stark
concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings that balance the
romanticism of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of
an underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance
parties, while work days are more low-key with everything
from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers,
as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s top
concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go out of their
way to try and play in. A must visit. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PAUEBXW
Cherry Club B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 501 55
52 02, www.cherryclub.com.pl. Housed in what was
Lemoniada, the décor seems to have changed little and this
is still one of the top addresses in town. Get past the door
police to find one of the smartest looking joints in town with
a young crowd determined to have fun. Decent sounds and a
well-stocked bar make this a popular venue meaning dressing
up a little is not only worthwhile but necessary. Expect
to dispense some cash at the door on weekends. QOpen
21:00 - 03:00, Tue 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. PAUXW
Domówka A-3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508 15 69
12, www.klubdomowka.pl. If you come on a popular
night Domówka is not so much a club, but an experience.
Once you’ve gotten past the face-control, entrance,
security and coat-check you’ll stroll into a packed
ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive
elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a
bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s
eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Zakąski Przekąski
NIGHTLIFE
Known as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers &
Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some,
these 24 hour budget snack bars have been appearing
all over the city (and the country for that matter), cashing
in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices
as everything else is getting more expensive. The Zakąski
Przekąski formula includes a small selection of simple, local
appetisers typically served cold and priced at 8zł, with drinks
(coffee, vodka, beer, wine) at a fixed rate of 4zł. Familiar as
the bar snacks of the lean communist years, the menu reads
like a list of correct answers to questions from the Jeopardy
category ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledz
(pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa
(sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Having seemingly
sprung up on every street in Wrocław, we list the best below:
Nagi Kamerdyner (The Naked Butler) A-3, ul. Św.
Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00 11, www.nagikamerdyner.pl.
An absolutely fantastic boozer that perfectly
captures the dusky, tobacco-stained, outlaw elegance of
Prohibition-era America with music from the1920s and
‘30s, period photos and interrogation lamps, The Naked
Butler is one of our favourite spots to soak up some suds
before a big night out. With above-average hot and cold
Polish dishes for 8zł and an all-too-convenient location with
a great summer garden underneath the legendary Manana
Cafe, you never know when we might be stool pigeoning
at the bar with our brim pulled low over a plate of bigos
and a beer. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 07:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PAUGB
Przedwojenna A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 81, tel. (+48)
791 12 05 25. Another Zakąski Przekąski bar, Przedwojenna
sets itself apart thanks to a great location just
off the market square and plenty of atmosphere. Building
off the misnomer that budget vodka snack bars were also
fashionable during the 1920s, Przedwojenna (the name
translates to ‘Pre-war’) captures the casual elegance of
the period via a rugged interior of stained wood and slightly
battered furnishings set inside a glorious building with high
ceilings and a mezzanine level that looks directly onto St.
Elizabeth’s church. There are a couple nods to the cult ‘20sera
Polish crime flick, Vabank, but the two former models
behind the bar perhaps best embody the atmosphere
of fleeting beauty that Przedwojenna captures. Popular
throughout the day as well as the night, the food is better
than the competitors and Przedwojenna is on its way to
becoming a Wrocław legend. Q Open 24hrs. PGBW
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego
50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar.
pl. For those who miss the Communist system in Poland
and those who simply missed it altogether, Setka (the Polish
name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) recreates the
spartan simplicity of a Communist bar or diner. However,
instead of just a dreary room of empty shelves, gray walls,
and unsmiling patrons, you’ll find a veritable homage to all
things Communist. The time-warp motif covers most of the
20-foot high walls as well as the bar, tables and decorations.
Even the menu - a huge billboard-like sign looming above
the bar - is a typically large, imposing and inflexible tribute to
Communists days (and offers a grand total of sixteen items,
including all drinks). There’s more ambience than there should
be for a real historical re-enactment, but the low prices and
completely casual dress do an old Communist watering hole
justice. Q Open 24hrs. PAUGBSW
September - December 2012
57

58 NIGHTLIFE
The tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic
at the same time, and the coordinated light displays that
continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a
Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend
wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you to
dance party paradise. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 -
05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Sun. PAXW
Instytut E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 693 54
38 02, www.instytutklub.pl. A massive, modern space
offering 3 levels to lush-hounds, including a laid-back,
love-seated mezzanine, cool cocktail bar and downstairs
dance madness, Instytut is a worthy addition to Pasaż
Niepolda. Aiming to make itself a more upscale address in
the neighbourhood, the sexily suit-vested and suspendered
staff pride themselves on their drink inventions, but the
beer flows just as freely and the atmosphere is hardly too
fancy or elite for you to make a fool of yourself - exactly
what the stewed, student crowd is up to on the swaying
dance-floor. Believe it or not, in the afternoons this is a
rather reliable place to use the wifi and have a coffee, or
even a bagel. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
PAEGBW
Jazzda B-3, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 71 346 08 25,
www.jazzda.pl. A tribute to the psychedelic swank and
bell-bottomed boogie nights of the 60s and 70s, Jazzda’s illuminated
chequered dance floor, disco lights and mirror balls
invite you to recreate scenes from Saturday Night Fever
every night of the week. The cocktails are as colourful as
the outlandish technicolour pimper’s paradise decor of this
popular market square club, where lounge lizards practice
their Austin Powers pick-up lines on Polish pussycats until
another Abba song comes on and they go squealing back
to the dance-floor with their arms in the air. Expect an entry
fee on weekends. QOpen 09:30 - 01:00, Thu 09:30 - 03:00,
Fri 09:30 - 04:00, Sat 11:30 - 05:00, Sun 11:30 - 01:00.
PAGBW
Kalambur B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 372
35 71 ext.32, www.kalambur.org. An artsy bohemian
headquarters by day, this tiny Seccessionist space becomes
one of the sloppiest, most unhinged student clubs
in Wrocław on weekend nights, with the party going on
until dawn o’clock. As drunken revellers bump into the DJ
booth, the masses writhe to skipping recordings of everything
from classic MJ to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So
chock-a-block with shimmying students and hipsters that
dancers obstruct the door, so start testing your moves
on the approach ‘cause you’re going right into the frying
pan, friend. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
PUEBXW
Mañana Cafe E-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48)
71 343 43 70, www.manana-cafe.pl. Reckoned by many
to be the best night out in Wrocław, Mañana is certainly reliable
for a raucous weeknight rave-up and well-loved by all
those who live for long nights. Don’t let the lack of a proper
dancefloor prevent you from doing your Travolta - spontaneous
outbreaks of disco fever are rife and encouraged. The
scruffy furnishings, red lighting and cheeky photos on the
wall exemplify the balance between sexiness and silliness
embodied by the randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s
down-to-earth attitude and funky playlist of favourites from
the last 50 years make it one of the most appealing places
in the city to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a
VIP room and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s
now even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s
lookers.QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PAGB
Nietota A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 664
00 76 10. One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is
a place for artist discourse, self-destructive decadence and
debauchery. Endeavouring to embody the spirit of PL’s ‘Młoda
Polska’ artistic movement, an awful lot of time has gone into
the decor with almost every surface - including the tables, bar,
walls and ceiling - covered in highly-illustrative original artwork
that gives the space a creepy-cool nacht-cabaret atmosphere
where concerts and theatre troops take the stage between
weekend DJ nights. With the self-described Art Nouveau ambience,
we disagree; the interior’s ubiquitous darkly cross-hatched
characters with flayed flesh in contorted positions embrace
more of a caustic post-war grotesque that wouldn’t look out of
place as the art on a Tool album. Completely unique in style and
atmosphere, the drinks list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s
cherry beer to candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Czech
Litovel on draft. Well worth seeking out. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. PAEGBW
Obsesja A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 341
84 25, www.klubobsesja.com. A corking venue with industrial
gray walls offset by a no-expense-spared décor that
includes safari print sofas, curtained off boudoirs and glowing
glass blocks. It looks great, but not half as fetching as the
nymphs who swerve and slink under the glittery disco balls.
The DJs like interspersing house with disco, and the results
are often absolutely riotous as chiseled lads attempt dickish
dance turns. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEX
Pasja A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. (+48) 609 20 91 60,
www.pasjaclub.pl. One of the hottest addresses in town,
complete with a whirring disco ball and a voluptuous interior
of Doric columns and vanilla seating. The impeccable crowd
consists of vampy girls and lads on the verge of making their
fortune practicing snake hip dance moves to the house
sounds that thump from an excellent sound system. QOpen
21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAEXW
PRL A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 10, tel. (+48) 71 342 55 26, www.
prl.wroc.pl. Comrade Lenin (and his many portraits) invites you
to this communist theme bar on the market square brimming
with period propaganda, including some frighteningly authentic
social realist oil paintings. It looks amazing and the novelty of
the place may intrigue tourists who upon coughing up the cover
charge are likely to find themselves far out of their element. Not
really a nostalgia bar, this veteran dance club never left the
Soviet era and 20+ years of democracy has done nothing to
dent its popularity. As such you’ll find a bit of an older crowd with
wandering hands getting sweaty to PRL-era Polish pop hits and
disco polo tracks of seriously dubious musical merit. A cultural
experience to be sure, and one you should be careful about
committing to. Q Open 24 hrs. PABXW
Puzzle Klub B-3, Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71
341 13 91, www.klubpuzzle.pl. Who would have expected
one of the city’s best alternative venues to be squatted right
on the second floor of the Town Hall? Drawing a young crowd of
liberally-pierced locals and unwashed Erasmus students, you’d
hardly mistake the interiors as historical - Puzzle looks more like
a warehouse gallery or recording studio, with sound-padded
walls, a cheaply constructed bar and industrial spools for tables.
Other clever touches include the menus tucked into the covers
of old 45s and the jigsaw pieces for cloakroom tokens. With an
indie DIY vibe, the stage at the far end regularly hosts concerts,
literary readings, cabarets, film screenings, DJ parties and more,
making Puzzle one of your best bets for finding something unique
to do on any night of the week, while bolstering to your hipster
cred at the same time. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Note that opening
hours are subject to change. PAUEGBW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Adult Entertainment
Pruderia B-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 46, tel. (+48)
71 343 06 02, www.pruderia.com.pl. Surprisingly
classy and subtle décor for a gentlemen’s club. If not for
the five stars prominently displayed out front it would
have a decidedly understated façade of modesty. The
velvet and lavender walls are a nice touch to the skyhigh
ceilings and wall-length burlesque paintings and
portraits. The strobe lights, crystal-textured wall paper,
and the music that is at a much more bearably low decibel
than other locales will get you in your groove while you
take in a performance or two or even treat yourself to
a private dance. The central stage is easy viewing from
the bar, and you can also get a good look at what’s on
deck if you cleverly time your trips for refills. Come early
before the crowd gets in if you want to feel like a sultan,
or just the luckiest guy in Wroclaw for a few hours. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAG
Stardust A-3, ul. Świdnicka 13, tel. (+48) 500 57 06
31, www.stardustclub.pl. Get your shirt pressed and walk
the red carpet (literally) on weekends to enter this thoroughly
upscale and intimate fashion club full of white, black and silver
crescent-shaped booths. Every surface gleams, including the
shiny stripes on the black-clad Zoolander barstaff. The name
‘Stardust’ suits it perfectly thanks to a foggy galactic pink
dance-floor full of twinkling LED lights, and the house DJs
hold up their end seamlessly beat-matching the latest clubbangers
for the crowd of tomorrow’s reality TV stars. There’s
a back room where the smoke is generated by cigarettes
and delicious tapas to snack on when you’re not feasting on
the fit clientele. You gotta pay to sashay, so expect a steep
cover upon entry. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. PAXW
Synergia A-3, Pl. Solny 16, tel. (+48) 606 49 01 20,
www.synergiaclub.pl. This coffee and cocktail club in the
basement of Plac Solny’s historic Stock Exchange building
is well located and laid out for massive rave-ups, with the
DJ station and a large dance-floor occupying the middle of
the space. Synergia’s strengths are in its delicious coffee
concoctions, cocktails, large selection of whiskeys and late
hours which make it an ideal diversion for dawnbreakers. The
interior is a mash-up of ideas with a few vintage furnishings,
fashion photos and bright fluorescent pop art, so you may
need to keep your beer goggles on, but rumour is that in
September they will undergo a short renovation. In terms of
music, you have some of the best DJs around spinning an
eclectic selection that goes beyond house (though there’s
plenty of that) to embrace plenty of alternative pop hits and
funky bass lines Thurs-Sat. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Wed
08:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. AEGBW
Teatr Klub B-3, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 71 342 08
30, www.teatrklub.pl. Taking over the enviable clubbing
space at Oławska 9, Teatr Klub has finally developed a
deserved following for this well-designed locale full of plush,
low sofas, mirrors and modern lighting with two bars and
separate VIP and smoking sections. The house music may
not be original, but there’s always something hot happening
on the weekends, from beauty pageants to body painting,
followed by unbridled dance parties late into the night. To
describe the clientele as nice to look at would be a bit like
describing Hitler as a naughty boy. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00,
Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. From October
open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PAXW
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE
Exclusive
Striptease Club
+48 509 720 650
+48 71 343 06 02
ul. O ar Owicimskich 46 lok. 1a
Wrocaw
e-mail: pruderia@pruderia.com.pl
www.pruderia.com.pl
September - December 2012
59

60
HISTORY
So Where Exactly Am I?
As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has
been known by many names throughout its history. In
fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more
often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands
from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom
of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Hapsburgs
(1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia(1741-1871),
into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945),
and finally back to Poland (1945-today and hopefully
tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as the
by-rights homeland of any one nation or people despite
the past efforts of politically motivated revisionist historians
to prove otherwise (the Recvoered Territories
Exhibition of 1948). The city’s makeup has always been
diverse culturally and religiously with Poles, Germans,
Bohemians, Austrians and Jews all making significant
contributions to Wrocław’s development. With so many
influences and upheavals, Wrocław (as we know it today)
has seen more than its fair share of names used
in common parlance throughout the years, including
Vratislava, Wrotizla, Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav,
Presslaw and Bresslau (to name a few).
On a stroll about the Old Town you will still sometimes
see and hear Wrocław being referred to under its old
German name, ‘Breslau’, particularly by and for the
large number of German nostalgia tourists who come
here to seek their roots. The Polish name ‘Wrocław’
actually predates the German name, and is thought
to have been derived from the name of the Czech
sovereign ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name
began appearing in documents shortly after Poland
lost control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim
that Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to
Breslau in 1741, though this is subject to historical
dispute. With the German population expelled in 1945,
and Poland’s borders shifted westwards, post-war
Wrocław was repopulated with citizens from what is
now the Ukrainian city of Lviv (formerly Polish Lwow).
The tens of thousands of migrants who arrived from
the east not only changed the ethnic make-up of the
city, but also its cultural life by bringing much of their
former home’s cultural relics with them. Treasures
taken from Lviv and moved to Wrocław include the
Fredro statue in the main square, the library collection
of the Ossolineum, and the epic painting the
Racławice Panorama.
The problem of Wrocław’s complex titular nomenclature
was a challenge historian Norman Davies
encountered when writing his thorough history of
the city; Davies eventually settled on ‘Microcosm’ as
the title of his excellent book in acknowledgement of
city’s standing as a constant crossroads for Eastern
European cultures and concerns, and the unfairness
of putting such a wide-ranging study under a title with
a limited representation of its history. And while the
temptation to re-title this little tome ‘Microcosm In
Your Pocket’ is ever-present, we’ve got enough connotative
problems as it is…
Wrocław has always been the
dominant capital of Silesia,
a region whose story begins
with the establishment of a
stronghold along the Amber
Road and Via Regia trading
routes on what is today
Ostrow Tumski by the Slavic
Sleza tribe in the 8th century.
Absorbed into Czech
Bohemia, the expanding fortress
was first recorded in
the 10th century under the
name ‘Vratislavia,’ thought to be derived from the name of
the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast
duke Mieszko I conquered the region and in 1000 Polish
king Bolesław I established Silesia’s first bishopric, building
a cathedral on the site of today’s Cathedral of St. John the
Baptist (D-2). By the same year the city had expanded to
1,000 inhabitants, becoming a religious and commercial
centre that reached the left bank of the Odra River.
Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw
the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia
numerous times, before finding some stability under the
Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so
called ‘Age of Fragmentation’ (1138-1320) when Poland
was divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in
1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg
Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of
the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from
Ostrow Tumski (which became the city’s religious centre) to
the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive walls
around it, and laying out the market square as it appears
to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic Germans
soon became the most dominant demographic.
The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died
without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the
region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg
dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance
of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council,
lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in
outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town Hall
and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type began
in 1475, with many variations of the city’s name appearing,
including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay and Bresslau.
By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis Jagiellon’s death ended
prolonged fighting over Bohemian succession and transferred
the city to the Austrian Habsburg dynasty - the Reformation
had reached the Silesian capital and Protestantism had
become the dominant religion. During the Thirty Years War
(1618-48), the city fought to maintain its Protestantism,
and though occupied, eluded physical destruction, emerging
from the conflict as one of the only Silesian cities to remain
Protestant under Habsburg rule. However plague and war had
taken their toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the
Counter-reformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged
by the emperor to settle in Silesia’s capital, including the Jesuits
who founded the Wrocław Jesuit Academy in 1702, which
would later grow into today’s Wrocław University.
During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of Prussia
laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops entered
what was then known as ‘Breslau’ without a conflict in 1741.
Though heavily taxed and having lost the self-rule the city had
enjoyed since the Middle Ages, Protestants could now express
their faith freely in the new kingdom and Prussian authorities
allowed for the establishment of a Jewish community. After
the demise of the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Napoleon’s army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia
- who lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation
movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of
Breslau’s defensive fortifications by the French allowed the
city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper
in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative,
ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over the
course of the century the population increased 8-fold (including
the third largest Jewish population in Germany) and Breslau
grew into the second largest city in Prussia; when the German
Empire was consolidated in 1871, Breslau entered as the third
largest city after Berlin and Hamburg. The construction of the
Centennial Hall in 1913 perhaps best represents the ambition
and achievement of this part of the city’s history.
By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided damage
and was even able to recover quickly from the economic
impoverishment that came with the end of the conflict. In 1930
it was chosen to host the ‘Deutsche Kampfspiele’ - a showcase
of German athletics after Germany was banned from the
Olympic Games. The Nazi Party developed one of its largest
support bases in Breslau, which played a large role in voting
them to power in 1933. In 1938 state-organised persecution
against the city’s minorities, particularly Poles and Jews, began
in earnest and those who did not escape were killed or sent
to the network of concentration and forced labour camps
set up around Breslau, where many would die later. Safely
removed from the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven
for refugees and its population swelled to close to one million.
In August 1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city
was declared ‘Festung Breslau’ - a closed fortress to be held
at all costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban
on the evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was too late:
railway connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded
and tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice
storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the
Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted
82 days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It
was one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by
four days and the war in Europe officially ended only two days
after Breslau’s defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and the
western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated. Tens of
thousands had died defending it.
Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia
passed to Poland and its largest city became known as
‘Wrocław.’ Poles began arriving immediately as forced deportations
from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the Soviet Union
and the forced expulsion of Wrocław’s German population
took place simultaneously, leading to a huge influx of Eastern
Poles into Wrocław, particularly from Lwów (now L’viv, Ukraine);
Polish cultural treasures from Lwów came with them including
the Fredo monument on the market square, the Racławice
Panorama painting and the collection of the Ossolineum library
(see Sightseeing). A long period of reconstruction followed,
characterised equally by Polonisation and de-Germanisation;
all German monuments and inscriptions were removed and
Wrocław’s non-Jewish cemeteries were destroyed. At the same
time Sovietisation was also beginning: businesses were nationalised,
Polish political and religious leaders were imprisoned and
following rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland
was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took full
credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their success
rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the Soviet system;
this was typified by Wrocław’s hosting of the propaganda parade
known as the Recovered Territories Exhibition in 1948.
By the late 1950s Wrocław had returned to its former population
level and established itself as one of Poland’s main
urban, economic, cultural and academic centres despite
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
HISTORY
Wrocław Historical Timeline
990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating
it into Poland
1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrow Tumski
1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia
1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is laid
out, Germans become the dominant ethnic group
1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of Bohemia
1418: The city’s guild’s revolt, beheading the major and
six members of city council
1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against
Jewish population who are executed or forced
to convert to Christianity
1526: The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs Bohemia,
including Silesia
1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, today’s Wrocław
University
1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia
1807: Napoleon captures the city and its medieval
defences are destroyed
1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters
as its third most prominent city
1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built
1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany
1938: Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched,
homes looted and burned
1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed
fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment
1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and
Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland
1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged elections
1948: Wrocław hosts the Recovered Territories Exhibition
1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across
Poland
1981: The Polish military imposes Martial Law. Solidarity
activists are arrested and interned
1983: Martial Law lifted
1989: First free post-war elections in PL
1997: The Odra and Oława rivers overflow flooding a
third of downtown Wrocław
1999: Poland joins NATO
2004: Poland joins the EU
2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia
2012: Wrocław hosts the Euro 2012 Football
Championships
being hamstrung by the political and economic conditions of
the People’s Republic of Poland. In August of 1980, Wrocław’s
workers joined the general strike called by Gdańsk’s Solidarity
Trade Union led by Lech Wałęsa. Martial law went into effect
from1981 to 1983, and Wrocław remained a centre of anti-
Communist opposition throughout the 80s until Communism
crumbled in 1989 and Wałęsa became Poland’s first freely
elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocław’s first post
Communist city council restored the city’s historical coat of
arms, symbolising the city’s acceptance of its entire history
(even the German bits). In July 1997 the city sustained the
worst flooding in post-war Central Europe when the Odra
River overflowed its banks leaving one third of the city
under water. Poland joined the European Union in 2004 and
Wrocław has emerged as one of the country’s leading cities,
attracting significant foreign investment. The city was
chosen to host matches during the 2012 European Football
Championships, is to be European Capital of Culture in 2016
and host the World Games in 2017.
September - December 2012
61

62
ESSENTIAL WROCŁAW
Wrocław Old Town
There’s no shortage of things to see and do in Wrocław, and
our tried and true, preferred method of discovering them is
eighty percent aimless wandering around. If there’s room
for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find
no more rewarding experience than meandering around the
Old Town. Those looking for a little more guidance, however,
would do well to take into account our picks and tips to ensure
they miss nothing of importance during their stay.
The first port of call in Wrocław, and that which the entire
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek (A/B-
3). This is not only the city’s municipal centre, but also the
social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a place of happenings,
concerts and performance art, lined with terraced cafes and
restaurants. Note that while the Rynek was originally built
in the 13th century, much of what you see today is in fact a
façade, quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in
World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s.
Though strict attention was given to original details, particularly
those of the frontage, much of what lies behind them
experienced understandable updating (though a medieval
cellar never stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly squareshouldered
in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a
miraculous survivor from the 13th century and the city’s
defining landmark. After exploring the three passageways
packed with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall
you should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3), known
Town Hall (Ratusz)
as the Flower Market and always a bright sight thanks to
the scores of flower sellers who are on call here twenty-four
hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, ready
to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos - such is
the importance of flower-giving in Polish society.
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. Elizabeth’s
Church (A-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety), the city’s tallest. Stunning views
of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that the climb
can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a stairmaster for
some time. Head next to the stunning University (B-2, Plac
Uniwersytecki), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush
for grotty students; don’t miss the university church (yes, even
the university has a church), Aula Leopoldina - the grand
Baroque ceremonial hall, or the panoramic city views from the
Mathematical Tower. Before heading over to Ostrów Tumski,
pop into Wrocław’s proper marketplace Hala Targowa (C-2, on
the corner of Piaskowa and Św. Ducha). Here you can pick-up
fresh produce and sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy
bargain bric-a-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping
needs you have while getting a colourful look at locals living
their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap pierogi
(what, your radar’s not going off?)
Crossing the river now, Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2) is packed with
religious sights and historic significance. First settled in the
8th century with the first bishopric in 1000, this was originally
the centre of Wrocław before 1240 when the Tartars razed
the place and the city began redeveloping on the other side
of the river where, quite frankly, there was more room. After
that Ostrów Tumski became an exclusively royal and religious
sanctuary, a role which it has almost inconceivably maintained
to this day. Largely devoid of shops, cafes and bars, etc, Ostrów
Tumski has an ethereal feel that takes you miles away from
the pace of life found throughout the rest of the city. Ideal for
a romantic stroll, here you’ll find cobbled lanes, original gas
lamps and lots of riverside greenery. Oh, and the churches:
top of your list should be Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
(D-2, Pl. Katedralny), famous for its stunning stained glass
windows and for its 16th century altarpiece. To the right of
the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, now
the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives elsewhere
these days). Not to be missed either is the Church of the Holy
Cross, a rare two-level church with two separate parishes. For
those looking for a sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on
crosses, head north to the city’s Botanical Gardens - one
of the finest, most picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places
for spending time in Wrocław.
Back over the river, locals will not forgive you for missing out
on the Racławice Panorama (C-3), especially after all the
trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A 140m-long
canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and short-lived)
victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of the only
remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a genre that
was actually quite popular in the 19th century. Of the city’s
museums we would class the restored Royal Palace (A-3,
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35) as the most essential, with the
National Museum (D-3, pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5) also
more than worthy of a rainy day.
With the additions of the dazzling Wrocław Fountain (or ice
rink from November to April) and the Discovery Centre, a
tram ride west of the centre to the Centennial Hall exhibition
and park complex (I-4) is now also a required ramble. In
addition to the UNESCO-listed Hala and Iglica monument,
here you’ll also find the Zoo and Japanese Garden in Szczytnicki
Park. But the real gems are the Discovery Centre
exhibit and the city’s new multimedia fountain which during
short-sleeve season puts on an incredible display of water,
light and sound every hour, on the hour (from May to the end
of October). Finally, no visitor should leave Wrocław without
having hunted down a few of the city’s infamous and elusive
gnomes. Enjoy Wrocław.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Churches
St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół św. Wojciecha)
C-3, Pl. Dominikański 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 31, www.
wroclaw.dominikanie.pl. This heavy, imposing church on Plac
Dominikański is the oldest church on the left bank of the Odra River.
It was founded in 1112 for the Augustinians and later handed over
to the Dominicans. It was destroyed in the 1241 Tartar invasion and
then again in the 1945 siege of Wrocław. Q Open 05:45 - 20:00,
Sun 07:00 - 21:30. No visiting during mass please.
St. Elizabeth’s Church (Kościół Św. Elżbiety) A-3, ul.
Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.kosciolgarnizon.wroclaw.pl.
Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and
the tallest buildings in Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable.
A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the
current Gothic structure dates to the 14th and 15th centuries. This
is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529
by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then was the
victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a
military garrison church. Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic and
Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of prominent citizens.
The 91m tower (the original tower was 128m) is open to ablebodied
visitors until the end of September (and after by request
only, depending on the weather). We lost count after about 200
steps, mostly due to the lack of oxygen in the narrow, twisting
stairwell, though one reader has written to assure that the tower
has 300 steps in all. The view from the top is more than worth the
arduous journey and 5zł. Open daily, visitors should ask to be let
in at the vestry. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. No
visiting during mass please.
St. Mary Magdalene’s Church (Kościół Św. Marii
Magdaleny) B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 609 42
84 23. This massive church was the second to be built on
the left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During
the Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and
was not returned to the Catholic church until after WWII. It’s
most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque
portal that was moved here from the Benedictine abbey -
considered to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that
era - and the ‘Penitants’ Bridge’ spanning the two soaring,
yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced after
WW2. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. No visting during mass please.
University Church of the
Blessed Name of Jesus
(Kościół Najświętszego
Imienia Jezus) B-2, Pl.
Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48)
71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.
pl. This Late Baroque church
has been ranked among the
most beautiful in Central Europe.
It’s certainly the most
impressive in Wrocław. The
Jesuits built the church as
part of the university complex
in the late 17th century on the
site of the Piast castle. Part of the castle structure can still
be seen in the northern sacristy, the alcove at the far end of
the church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is
very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original.
Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18thcentury
depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia
and Europe. Visitors are given an audioguide which is available
in seven different languages. Donations suggested, but not
required. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00; note that church is frequently
closed to visitors on weekends during wedding ceremonies.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
SIGHTSEEING
Guided Tours
Na Solnym A-3, Pl. Solny 20, tel. (+48) 71 799 90
01, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com. On top of tourist
info and souvenirs, Na Solnym offers guided walking
tours of Wrocław, with a special theme if requested.
Excursions to interesting destinations outside Wrocław
and throughout all of Poland are also an option. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
PTTK B-3, Rynek - Ratusz 11/12, tel. (+48) 71
343 83 31, www.pttk.wroclaw.pl. Tours of Wrocław,
Lower Silesia, Auschwitz, Wieliczka and more (even beyond
Poland’s borders, in Berlin, Prague and Dresden), specialising
in group bus tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Reserve one week in advance. Tours in English 480zł.
Wratislavia Tour, tel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www.
wratislaviatour.com. Guided walking tours of all the
main sights of the Old Town, or see even more of the
city by being chauffeured around it in an electronic car.
Tours around Silesia and to Kraków and Auschwitz also
available as well as airport transfers. Q Reserve in
advance. Tours in English, 300zł.
Wrocław City Tours, tel. (+48) 513 946 946, www.
wroclawcitytour.pl. Look no further. With over 30 different
tours of Wrocław and Silesia available, these folks
can arrange carriage rides, golf cart tours, river cruises,
whatever you want. Tours available in English, German and
Polish starting at 259zł. Call one day in advance.
Wrocław Sightseeing Tours ul. Wita Stwosza 3,
tel. (+48) 698 90 01 23, www.wroclawsightseeingtours.com.
Offering a range of thematic tours in English,
German and Spanish covering Wrocław’s city centre,
Lower Silesia, Secrets of WWII, Bolesławiec, Auschwitz,
Kraków, Wieliczka, Poznań, Częstochowa and more. They
also now offer what we think is the first Great Escape
Tour to the legendary POW camp at Żagań. You can also
pick up their mp3 Wrocław walking tour by visiting their
office. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Wrocław - Silesia Tours, tel. (+48) 509 96 00 34,
www.wroclawsilesiatours.pl. Demonstrating Wrocław’s
diversity with themed tours that trace the city’s different cultures
and religions, Wroclaw Silesia Tours offer tours around
the city in golf cars as well as on bikes (Wroclaw City Bike
Tour). They can also take you to places a bit further afield
such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia Góra or Auschwitz. Tours
available in English, German, Spanish and Portuguese. Call
one day in advance to negotiate prices.
Tourist Information
Lower Silesian Cultural Information Centre
A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
www.dcik.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Information A-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71
344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Brochures, maps,
events and advice. There’s also a second point at ul.
Sukiennice 12 (A-3, open 10:00-18:00) offering all the
above as well as internet access and ticket purchase
for cultural events. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Note that
opening hours may be shortened in the winter.
September - December 2012
63

64 SIGHTSEEING
Racławice Panorama
Racławice Panorama (Panorama Racławicka)
C-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 23 44,
www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. The Panorama is not just
a painting. It’s a pilgrimage. The 140m-long canvas depicts
the legendary General Tadeusz Kościuszko’s victory over the
Russian forces at Racławice in 1794, and took just over nine
months to complete. Peasants wielding scythes rush the
ranks of Russian hussars in a heroic bid for independence.
They win the battle, but the uprising comes to nought. Poland
won’t be truly self-governing until the early 20th century. The
painting was born in a burst of patriotic fervor in Lwów (now
Lviv, Ukraine) a hundred years after the battle. Painters Jan
Styka and Wojciech Kossak wanted to create a monument to
Polish national spirit. Their work, displayed in a rotunda built
especially for it, was a popular - and financial - success. After
World War II, the Soviet Union, which had absorbed the city of
Lviv, sent the painting to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was
a bit too nationalistic for the local Communist authorities,
who rejected several bids to display it. The current building
was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was not
installed for display until 1985. Today school groups and
hordes of others file in daily for a 30-minute taped lecture
on the painting and its history. Headsets with commentary
in 17 languages (including English, French, Russian, Spanish,
German and even Esperanto) are available at no extra
charge. Presentations are held every half hour. Around 1,600
people per day turn up to admire the painting, so don’t think
you’ll just be able to walk in straight away - expect queues.
Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. From November open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 25/18zł, family ticket 18zł.
Stare Jatki
Wrocław’s most engaging
street can
be found connecting
Kiełbaśnicza with
Odrzańska, and
though most of the
structures on Stare
Jatki date from the
17th and 18th centuries,
the line of
low level buildings
were constructed
on medieval foundations
- some elements
from the
13th century are
still visible on the
south side of the street. Today the alleyway is home
to numerous artists’ studios, though in past times
the principal industry here was meat, the wooden
stalls packed with the carcasses of butchered
beasts. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the
collection of cast iron farm animals at the start of
the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected
in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’
was funded by the local government (aside from the
cock, paid for by the owner of Pod Zielonym Kogutem
bar), and serves not only as one of Wrocław’s most
photographed attractions, but also as an obstacle
course for party casualties pouring out of Klub Na
Jatkach.
Monuments
Alexander Fredro A-3, ul. Rynek Ratusz. Walking
around Wrocław’s Rynek it’s impossible to miss the form
of the elegant looking fella cast in stone sitting outside the
Spiż microbrewery. That’s Alexander Fredro, one of Poland’s
most distinguished literary figures. His statue replaced that of
Kaiser Wilhelm who had stood on that spot during Wrocław’s
incarnation as the city of Breslau. Although unharmed by the
bombs and bullets of the war Wilhelm fell foul of the iconoclastic
fury that was to follow in peacetime, and most likely
ended up being tossed into a blast furnace. When Fredro was
unveiled to the people of Wrocław in 1956 his plinth came
without the aristocratic initials HR. Following popular condemnation
the communist authorities relented and Fredro
has since stood gazing forth in all his noble brilliance. Like
the Mickiewicz monument in Kraków, or Zygmunt in Warsaw,
the Fredro statue has grown to symbolize the city, and is the
principal meeting point for both canoodling couples, students
bashing bongo drums and political agitators.
Monument to the Victims of the Katyń Massacre
(Pomnik Ofiar Zbrodni Katyńskiej) D-3, Słowacki
Park. Anyone who has an unindoctrinated knowledge of
World War II history or who has spent more than 15 minutes
in Poland, is probably familiar with the subject of this memorial
which remembers the 22,000 Polish military officers,
policemen, intelligensia and POWs murdered by the NKVD
on Stalin’s orders in 1940. Designed by Warsaw sculptor
Tadeusz Tchórzewski, the striking monument depicts the
sword-wielding Angel of Death on a high pedastal over the
figure of Katyń Pieta - the Matron of the Homeland despairing
over the body of a murdered prisoner of war. Symbolic
granite walls/graves flank the scene, with the names of the
POW camps and places of mass murder inscribed on them.
Anguished, terrifying and gruesome in turn, with detail down
to the bullethole in the back of the fallen officer’s head, this
evocative monument was unveiled in 1999 and can be found
in the park next to the Racławice Panorama.
The Anonymous Pedestrians (Pomnik Przejścia)
A-5, Corner of ul. Piłsudskiego and ul. Świdnicka. When
you’re tired of gazing at Wrocław’s multitude of cherubs,
gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching important
pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on down to the
junction of Piłsudskiego and Świdnicka and have a look at an
entirely different take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike
bronze statues descending into the earth that make up ‘The
Anonymous Pedestrians’ are a memorial to the introduction
of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the hordes of
people who disappeared (‘went underground’) in the middle
of the night courtesy of the militia. The work of Jerzy Kalina,
the 14 statues were erected here in the middle of the night in
2005 on the 24th anniversary of the introduction of martial
law, though the prophetic moulds were actually made several
years before the events they commemorate.
The Naked Swordsman (Fontanna Szermierza)
B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki. The University of Wrocław presents
plenty of superb photographic opportunities, but the most
popular has to be the naked swordsman proudly standing at
the entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer,
the splendid sculpture was erected in 1904 and prompted
complaints from parish priests that students would be morally
corrupted by the statue’s naked form. Early grumblings
were countered by the legend that the statue represents
an extravagant gambler who squandered all but his sword
in drunken card games - thus serving as an example to the
university’s 14,000 students. Town mayor, George Bender,
agreed and the statue has stood ever since.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Museums
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)
A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16
96, www.mmw.pl. Like all the best museums in Poland,
Wrocław’s Archaeological Museum is located inside a
building that’s a museum in itself. In this instance the
city’s former 15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual
suspects found lurking in most museums of its type. There
are English captions now for many exhibits, while others,
such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched
house fascinate without the need to know more. There are
three permanent exhibitions - Medieval Silesia with the
reconstructed thatched house mentioned earlier, Ancient
Silesia - Stone Age and early Bronze Age and Ancient Silesia
- Bronze and Iron Age. On display are everyday objects
from these times such as military items, ornaments and
tools. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 7/5zł, Wed free.
Architecture Museum (Muzeum Architektury)
C-3, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78,
www.ma.wroc.pl. A unique exhibition inside the gorgeous
16th-century former Bernadine monastery, the city’s architecture
museum is more of a record of all that was lost in
the city during WWII than a true museum of architecture.
Permanent displays include beautiful examples of stained
glass from the 12th century through to some spectacular
Art Nouveau pieces, a breathtaking collection of tiled ceramic
stoves, intricate door handles, Turkish floor tiles and
a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles. There’s a large model
of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly shows its status
as a fortress surrounded by water, and the occasional
temporary exhibit to keep the eyes peeled for. QOpen
11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł
per person, Wed free.
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
H-5, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344
33 13, www.muzeumetnograficzne.pl. The best part of
the Ethnographic Museum is on the top floor. Life-size dolls
are arranged in quaint scenes of life in Silesia before 1945.
It won’t take you long to see it, but the national costumes
and farm equipment offer a glimpse of life you won’t find
in urban Wrocław. And the museum’s strange fondness for
the definite article in the English labels is worth a giggle.
Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice Panorama.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 5/3zł. Groups over 10 people 2zł per person,
Sat free.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) D-3, Pl.
Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50,
www.mnwr.art.pl. Wrocław’s National Museum houses
one of the largest collections of Polish art. Before the 18th
century this means almost exclusively religious art: altarpieces,
urns for relics, busts of saints and the like. Later
parts of the collection also include applied arts and quite a
few pieces on national themes (uprisings and saints figure
heavily in Polish history). By far the most interesting bit is
the 20th-century collection. Innovative installation artists
like Magdalena Abakanowicz and Józef Szajna make this
an exciting period in Polish art. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except last Tue of
each month). From October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except last Tue of each
month). Admission 15/10zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł
per person, Sat free. Entry free with a ticket to the nearby
Racławice Panorama.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
SIGHTSEEING
All Saint‘s Day
mayanais, Flickr.com
Readers expecting a wild time of week-long costume
parties and rollicking Halloween debauchery may be
shocked to discover a rather sobering, sombre scene
the during the evenings of November 1 and 2 in Poland.
Known nationally as All Saints’ Day (Dzień Wszystkich
Świętych) and All Souls’ Day (Dzień Zaduszny, or Dzień
Wszystkich Zmarłych) respectively, these two days of the
calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute
to the deceased by visiting their graves. In accordance
with tradition, Catholic families all over Poland will make
pilgrimages to the resting places of their relatives, tending
the graves with a care that is truly touching, before
laying wreaths, flowers and candles that will be kept lit
throughout the length of the holiday. As night descends,
the country’s graveyards are aglow with the warm light
of literally thousands of flickering candles, creating an
eerie, incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be
missed by anyone with a heart that still beats.
While visitors to Wrocław may not have ancestors buried
here, a trip to one of the city’s cemeteries during this unforgettable
ceremony is, indeed, requisite. While we could
wax poetic about the unearthly glow of the immense
candlelight, the murmur of prayer and psalms, the subtle
smells of the incense, fresh flowers and burning wax, the
shades of ravens in the trees, the wet grass and mists,
and the surreal duality of the supernaturally charged, yet
tranquil atmosphere, we’d prefer you just experience it
for yourself. We also challenge you to find a lonely, unlit
grave and place a candle on it (it won’t be easy).
Below are Wrocław’s most centrally-located Catholic
cemeteries.
Osobowicki Cemetery (Cmentarz Osobowicki)
E-1, ul. Osobowicka 47-59. To get to this
large cemetery north-west of the centre, catch tram
numbers 14 or 24 from the ‘Rynek’ stop, getting off at
one of the two stops named ‘Osobwicka.’ Or just follow
the hundreds of people. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. From
November 12 open 08:00 - 18:00.
St. Lawrence’s Cemetery (Cmentarz św.
Wawrzyńca) I-3, ul. Bujwida 51. To get to this cemetery,
catch tram 17 (you can catch it from the ‘Rynek’ or
‘Świdnicka’ stops) or 9 (from Galeria Dominikańska or
the train station), getting off at the ‘Grunwaldzka’ stop.
Q Open 24hrs.
September - December 2012
65

66 SIGHTSEEING
Partisan Hill
Partisan Hill B-4. If
you’re walking along ul. Ks.
Skargi it’s impossible to
miss the white crescentshaped
structure rising
by Most Skargi. Wzgórze
Partyzantów (Partisan Hill)
is one of the few remaining ancient fortifications that
once protected the Old Town from invasion. Built between
1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the name Bastion
Sakwowy (Saddlebag Bastion), the buildings you see
now topping the horizon date from the 19th century when
the area was redeveloped to serve as public recreational
space. A fearsome tower, designed by Berlin architect
Carl Schmidt was added in 1867, though this was demolished
during WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops
from using it as a reference point for artillery shelling.
At the start of the siege of Festung Breslau the subterranean
bunkers and catacombs were used as HQ by Nazi
high command, though they relocated in March 1945 as
the Red Army drew closer. After the war the hillock was
re-christened Partisan Hill and the old cellars temporarily
housed a museum. Despite various areas being occupied
by beer gardens, a jazz club, strip club, and now a new
restaurant/bar in the old observatory, much of the area
remains unrenovated, forlorn and forgotten - a once
gleaming construction littered with smashed bottles
and spray can squiggles. The wind-swept loneliness that
greets visitors is ripe for myth and legend, and stories of
secret Nazi tunnels and the ghostly shrieks of prisoners
tortured to death in medieval times abound.
The Ossolineum
The Ossolineum B-2, ul. Szewska 37, tel. (+48) 71
344 44 71, www.oss.wroc.pl. This stunning Baroque
palace complex on the Odra riverbank was rebuilt to its
late 17th century designs after being damaged heavily
during the war and is today one of the most outstanding
works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a
hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent
grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an
important research centre and national archive, the
country’s oldest still-running publishing centre and one
of its largest library collections. Established in 1817 by
Józef Maksymilian Ossoliński when he began collecting
Polish manuscripts and cultural documents in his Vienna
flat, recognising their importance to national culture
after Poland was wiped from the world map, Ossoliński’s
private library became a national institute and was
eventually moved to L’viv where it expanded generously.
After post-war border changes the collection was forced
to move to Wrocław, however communist authorities
confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in
L’viv today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of
the most valuable in the country and include manuscripts
by Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki,
writings by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and
Durer. The site of regular exhibitions, often free, the Ossolineum
is otherwise worth a look around for the building
itself, with the library and inner and outer courtyards all
accessible to the public. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, Mon,
Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From October open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun
Post & Communications Museum (Muzeum
Poczty i Telekomunikacji) C-3, ul. Krasińskiego
1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65, www.muzeum.wroclaw.
pl. Housed inside 1929’s former Central Post Office, this
magnificent building was one of the first high-rises in Wrocław
and is easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks to the
crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses one
of the city’s most idiosyncratic and fascinating museums,
displaying the complex history of Poland’s postal service
and the development of communications technology from
the 16th century to the present day. Over two floors you’ll
see a wealth of paintings and graphics, postage stamps,
mailboxes, carriages, uniforms, decorative letter scales and
other instruments including early telegram machines, telephones,
radios and computers. The unique and engrossing
experience even includes information in English and is a great
way to change your attitude towards PL’s postal service from
one of frustration to admiration and wonder. Visiting takes
about 1 hour and is recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00,
Wed 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission
7/6zł. Groups over 10 people 4zł per person, Sun free.
The Royal Palace, History Museum (Pałac
Królewski, Muzeum Historyczne) A-3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40, www.mmw.
pl. Wrocław isn’t particularly known for its museums, the
majority of which are underfunded and outdated. However
the opening of the main branch of the Wrocław City Museum
inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace changed all that.
Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1750, the
palace was converted to become the royal residence of the
Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function which it served from
the 17th to 20th century. Badly damaged during WWII, only
half of the structure survived and now houses the permanent
exhibition, ‘1000 Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history
of the Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to modern
day through its art and artefacts, including meticulous recreations
of the royal apartments and the unique Beyersdorf
Room decorated entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century.
The upstairs contains a collection of contemporary, post-war
paintings. Also don’t miss the regal baroque gardens behind
the palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15/10zł. English-speaking guided tour 400zł.
Audio guides in English and German 10 zł.
Town Hall, Museum of City Art (Ratusz, Muzeum
Sztuki Mieszczańskiej) A-3, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71
347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. The first thing you’ll probably
notice about the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that it seems to be
patched together from bits and pieces of a dozen different
buildings, and in many ways it was. Construction began in
the end of the 13th century and continued - through all the
changing political and artistic forces - for about 250 years.
The Town Hall was the centre of city life up until the early
20th century, housing the Town Council, merchants’ stalls
and - most importantly - a beer cellar. The building escaped
relatively unscathed after World War II (an estimated 10%
was damaged). After reconstruction work, it was re-opened
as the Museum of City Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej).
Inside you can see the remarkable Gothic interiors and a
collection of silver and other city artefacts. In the Treasury
room, look for the new flower-shaped decorative keystones
which replaced Nazi symbols installed during World War II.
The most fun part of the Town Hall to explore is the elaborate
exterior decoration. See if you can find scenes from Aesop’s
fables, or grotesque scenes of medieval pub life. Note that
exhibits are poorly marked, there are few signs and finding
your way around can be a bit of a stab in the dark. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
10/7zł, Wed free.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
While you’re gawping at the medieval beauty of Wrocław’s
Market Square (Rynek) keep this in mind: in 1945 much of
the square was levelled by the war. Such was the dedication
of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ - the resettlers from the east - that
the remarkable ensemble you see today was faithfully rebuilt,
though not before many of the original bricks had been sent
to help with the post-war Warsaw rebuilding effort. Done
with a remarkable attention to detail, tourists can now even
admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the Town
Hall) used to flog people from 1492 to well into the 18th
century. Topped with the figure of a hangman the column
was originally the work of Briccius Gauske and it was here
that prostitutes and thieves were lashed. Indeed, being on
the wrong side of the law in Wrocław was a dangerous occupation.
Other punishments meted out on this spot included
the severing of hands, ears and noses, all of which would be
enthusiastically lapped up by the watching crowds.
Wrocław’s principal gallows was positioned outside the
house on Rynek 19, the condemned accompanied on their
final walk by the doleful dong of the ‘Sinners Bell’ once found
in St. Mary Magdalene’s Church. According to local legend
the town bellmaker killed his apprentice in a blind fury after
the lad interfered with the important churchbell, casting it
without him. Finding it perfectly crafted, the repentant bellmaker
confessed his sin and was sentenced to hang. His
final request was to walk to the gallows to the perfect pitch
of the bell, and from there the tradition stuck.
Further on the south side of the Rynek stands the strange
sculpture of a brown bear on a tree stump outside the
entrance of Piwnica Świdnicka in the Town Hall; rub his
tongue for luck before continuing on to the statue of Count
Alexander Fredro. A legendary comedy writer, his statue
was brought from Lvov in 1956, replacing the statue that
had previously occupied the space up until the end of the
war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm. Formerly the home of the
Wrocław fish market, from 1545 until 1745 it was also the
site of ‘the madman’s shed’ - a cage where drunks and other
miscreants would be incarcerated. City records reveal those
imprisoned ranged from a cross-dressing woman to a pair
of compulsive gamblers caught engrossed in a card game
during a church sermon.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
OLD TOWN
The market square and much of the grid of streets around it
was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then and remains
even now one of the largest squares of its kind in Europe.
Its centre is dominated by the Gothic Town Hall and an ensemble
of buildings that replaced the original trading stalls.
Surrounding the Town Hall are buildings whose facades range
from Gothic to Art Nouveau (Rynek 6) - with only a little bit of
modern thrown in for comparison’s sake: for instance, that grey
ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. Completed in 1931 the
structure was designed by Heinrich Rump and is a glimpse at
what the market square might have looked like had a ludicrous
project to modernize the historic centre ever come to fruition.
It was the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss
called Centennial Hall - to demolish the buildings surrounding
the Town Hall, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers.
After much deliberation city authorities abandoned the plan, in
the process saving the Wrocław loved by all today.
In lieu of addresses, the buildings originally had symbols from
which they took their names. Since the symbol was generally
placed above the door, the buildings would be called, for example,
Under the Golden Eagle (Pod Złotym Orłem, Rynek 4).
Most of these are still visible and have given their name over
to whatever restaurant or bar has moved in. The majority come
steeped in legend and history, with the building at number 7
once serving as an inn for visiting regents and nabobs. Under
the Golden Dog (Pod Złotym Psem, Rynek 41), meanwhile, is
one of the most haunted houses in Wrocław. The sounds of
carpentry can allegedly be heard on the stroke of midnight, while
another tale claims that Frederick the Great was once staying in
the residence, when all of a sudden a demonic force snatched
his feather quilled pen and hurled him across the room. It’s not
the only house where you’ll find scary goings-on. The house on
the corner of the Rynek and ul. Mikołaja is allegedly haunted
by a particularly nasty chap who was possessed by a goblin
living in the bell tower of St. Elizabeth’s Church. Motivated by
greed he murdered his grandmother for the sake of her fortune.
Adjacent to the Market Square is Plac Solny, which is almost
as impressive architecturally, especially with its elaborate
reliefs and figurines bursting from the facades. Formerly
home to a bazaar specializing in salt, leather and honey the
centre is now a 24 hour flower market - which is good news
for budding romeos, looking to delight any beauties they
may have seduced on the dance-floors of Wrocław. But Plac
Solny has also played a darker role in Wrocław’s past. It was
from the windows of a house here that John of Capistrano
conducted fire and brimstone sermons in 1453. Holding a
human skull in one hand, his diatribes and rants inspired his
captivated flock to throw cards and mirrors into a bonfire.
Unfortunately the fiery antics didn’t stop there. It was partly
under John’s instigation that a panel of city chiefs ordered
the arrest of all Jews. They were given a stark choice: convert
to Christianity, or face death at the stake. They chose the
latter with many, including the rabbi, committing suicide. The
other 41 were famously burned at the stake on Plac Solny
on July 4th, 1453.
Although much of Wrocław’s historic centre was subject
to meticulous renovation after the war the millhouses and
wooden cottages that once lined the canal were never rebuilt,
and nowadays this belt of land remains a quiet, meditative
spot in the centre of the city. Delving back into the heart of
the historic centre the numerous side streets that sprout
off ul. Kiełbaśniczna are well worth exploring, most notably
Stare Jatki; formerly filled with rows of butchers stalls, this
cobbled alleyway features a collection of cast-iron farm
animals in reference to its past, though today its principal
industry lies in selling local artwork to those with plenty of
cash at their disposal.
September - December 2012
67

68
OSTRÓW TUMSKI
© tomislavmedak, flickr.com
Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem
at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where the
city began. During the latter part of the ninth century what is
now known as Ostrów Tumski (the name means Cathedral
Island in Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Śleżanie,
who - not without reason - considered the island impregnable.
For a thorough history lesson you may want to view the scale
model of this, Ostrow Tumski’s earliest incarnation, over in
the Archaelogical Museum (A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9).
The first Silesian bishopric was built on the island in 1000,
and the town flourished until its almost total destruction
during the Tatar invasions of the 1240s. After that date the
town developed on the other side of the Odra river, and Ostrów
Tumski became a place of almost exclusively royal - the
Piast Dynasty built a castle here in the 1260s - and religious
significance. With a few exceptions it remains primarily a
place of worship and reflection to this day; there are few
shops, dwellings, cafes and restaurants, and the Wrocław
Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully maintained
classical buildings you will see.
The first thing the modern visitor notices however about Ostrów
Tumski is that, though accessed from central Wrocław
by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th
century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one
of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (not that that has prevented
further flooding). Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek,
perhaps the real joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel.
ul. Katedralna and ul. Idziego both provide cobbled reminders
of the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the in-your-face
sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit
today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame
for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll.
But we are getting ahead of ourselves. A visit to this lovely,
peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy
(Sand Bridge). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in
1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the
architectural front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th
century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber
Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence
to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the
Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the
Baroque and sadly graffiti-strewn University Library, and the
Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for
its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave.
From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski
Bridge) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look
out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia’s patron
saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s patron, at the head
of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the
bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond
they share going forward in life together.
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (Katedra św.
Jana Chrzciciela) D-2, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48)
71 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. As
you walk along ul. Katedralna, which leads to the Cathedral,
you are on the same path that the original inhabitants of the
island walked. Indeed, if you poke around the stones near the
cathedral, you should be able to see the outlines of some of
the buildings that used to stand on the island.
The cathedral remains a living, working church and as a visitor
you will undoubtedly encounter queues of people waiting patiently
for the confessionals and others in quiet worship. The
elegant double-spired Gothic building stands like a sentinel
at the end of ul. Katedralna, its elaborate portal one of the
most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocław. What we see
today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site. When
construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building
in Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued
for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic
interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing
the Virgin Mary falling asleep. The Cathedral suffered massive
damage in WWII, with traces of bullet holes still visible,
and has been meticulously rebuilt since. Of interest, to some
at least, the cathedral houses the largest organ in Poland,
which prior to the war was also the largest in the world. But
the real highlight of the Cathedral is the panoramic view from
its tower, which can be yours for 5zł (kids under 14 free).
An elevator takes you to the top of the Cathedral’s tower,
which offers a wonderful view of the city and surrounding
countryside. There’s also a small exhibition at the top of the
tower featuring various objects brought back from missions
although be warned the tower closes during the winter as
it is not heated. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00.
No visiting during mass please.
© Klearchos Kapoutsis, flickr.com
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne)
D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11
78. To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese
Museum (D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16), a do-it-yourself
museum that throws rooms full of religious art at you and
you’re left to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much
of the art is recent - the work of local religious orders,
but the largest room is filled with invaluable medieval
works from around Poland. Art historians will no doubt
find plenty of interest. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 4/3zł.
The Church of the Holy Cross/St. Bartholomew’s
C-2, Plac Kościelny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74. One of
Ostrów Tumski’s most beautiful and iconic structures,
thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase,
this curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split
over two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows
of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring
windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross. The
first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in
all of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act
of reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry
IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus
of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy
Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the
National Museum. Standing outside the church is a large
sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732. Q Open
during mass only. The lower church (St. Bartholomew’s) is
currently closed to visitors.
St. Martin’s Church
(Kościół Św. Marcina)
C-2, ul. Św.
Marcina. This tiny and
somewhat irregularly
shaped brick church is
all that remains of the
Piast dynasty’s 13thcentury
royal castle,
which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, however,
was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries.
Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture
in a primarily German city. Poles gathered here to
hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language.
The last Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held
here in 1939. A plaque outside reads in part, “We are
Poles... A Pole is a brother to a Pole... Poland is our
mother, we cannot speak badly of our mother.” Outside
St. Martin’s stands a massive monument to Pope John
Paul II, placed here in 1986.
Botanical Garden (Ogród Botaniczny) D-2,
ul. Sienkiewicza 23, tel. (+48) 71 322 59 57,
www.ogrodbotaniczny.wroclaw.pl. To complete a
thorough visit to the island you should not miss the
charming Botanical Gardens (D-2, ul. Sienkiewicza
23). The gardens began life as a scientific pursuit,
but have become a favourite retreat for Wrocław’s
residents. The garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on
the riverbed where the Odra once flowed around Ostrów
Tumski. The grounds include a huge diversity of plant
life, aquariums, sculptures, a plant shop and cafe, and
a large pond with picturesque bridges. On some days
your peace and quiet could be marred by noisy groups
of schoolkids, but the beautiful manicured landscapes
include enough nooks and crannies that you should have
no trouble forgetting you’re in the centre of a big city.
Highly recommended. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
from December. Admission 10/5zł.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
OSTRÓW TUMSKI
Wroclaw University
Wrocław University (Uniwersytet Wrocławski)
B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18,
www.muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Founded by the Jesuits in
1670, the magnificent Baroque main building of Wrocław
University and the adjacent Church of the Blessed
Name of Jesus that stand today were built at the same
time on the former site of a derelict Piast castle after a
land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia secularised
all church property and took over administration
of the university. Prior to this the Austrian-Prussian war
in 1741 saw the campus transformed into a hospital, a
prison and finally, in 1757, a food store. The dying days
of WWII saw the university library turned into a makeshift
HQ for the occupying Nazis. At the war’s end the German
faculty were all but exiled, with the replacement
professors arriving from the University of Lwów forming
the first Polish faculty to teach here. The University still
functions as an academic building, and past professors
include Alois Alzheimer (the man who gave his name to
the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent the
Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that it
was named in his honour). Since the start of the 20th
century, the university has produced a remarkable 9
Nobel Prize winners and today over 40,000 students are
enrolled with 9,000 graduating each year.
Despite its ongoing functions as an academic institution,
the main university building is open to tourists who troop
in and out primarily to take photos of Aula Leopoldina,
the grand Baroque ceremonial hall. Three tickets are
available, giving you access to 2, 3 or 4 university rooms.
We recommend you splash out for all four to avoid any
later confusion and consternation. The room including
the ticket desk includes an exhibit of historical university
items from globes to uniforms, however - similar to later
displays - all information is in Polish only and is unlikely to
hold much interest to casual visitors. Be aware that the
areas accessible to tourists are laid out over four floors
and there is no elevator.
The first of the University Museum’s two main highlights
is undoubtedly Aula Leopoldina. In true Baroque style,
the ceremonial hall is a virtual explosion of cherubs and
swag. The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of
God’s wisdom - reflecting the religious and academic mission
of this room and the Jesuits. The portraits ringing the
walls depict the founding fathers of the University. Some
years ago four of them were stolen and two have yet to be
returned. Winding upstairs past the odd exhibition and a
line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel - which runs
right through the building - visitors will reach the terrace
of the university’s ‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords
great photo opportunities and panoramic views of the
Old Town and Odra River. Q Open 10:00 - 15:30. Closed
Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
5-12zł depending on how many rooms you wish to visit.
Adam Dziura, wikipedia.org
September - December 2012
69

70
CENTENNIAL HALL & PARKS
fot. Stanisław Klimek
Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski,
there’s one more district of this fine city that visitors will be
poorer heading home without having seen. Just east of the
city centre lie a clutch of outdoor attractions surrounding
Szczynicki Park and the Centennial Exhibition Complex,
including Wrocław’s only UNESCO site, the country’s oldest
zoo, the Japanese Garden and the city’s latest ‘tell-me-thatyou-love-me’
tourist lure, the Pergola Fountain. Intended as a
city showpiece since its creation, the area east of the Odra
long held a somewhat lukewarm public standing thanks to
dubious historical connotations and debatable aesthetic
appeal; however recent renovations, the UNESCO nod and
the addition of the magnificent multimedia fountain have
made it a favourite place of locals and cemented its place
as a Wrocław must-see.
Zoo I-4, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 348 30 24,
www.zoo.wroclaw.pl. Cross the picturesque Zwierzyniecki
Bridge (I-4) and you find yourself immediately alongside the
cagey enclosure of the Wrocław Zoological Gardens. A product
of the city’s dynamic development in the late 19th century,
Wrocław’s zoo dates back to 1865 and became the oldest
in the country when Poland inherited it after World War II.
Suffering severe wartime damage, many of the zoo’s elegant
historic buildings were reconstructed and can be found in the
southern part of the park. With over 6000 critters of some
600 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s most visited
attractions and provides foreigners with an opportunity to pick
up a few phrases from one of the only Polish-speaking macaws
in the world (making good money on the side as a voice talent
for Polish dubovers of Disney flicks). Q Open 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00.
From November open 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission 25/15zł. From November (exact
date unknown) 20/10zł.
Iglica (Spire) I-4, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.
Leaving the animal house antics of the zoo, turn onto ulica
Wystawowa (Exhibition Street) and you’ll soon find yourself
staring down the Centennial Hall promenade, including the
ivy-covered columns leading to the towering Iglica monument
and with monolithic Centennial Hall behind it (I-4, ul.
Wystawowa 1).
The iconic 96 metre tall steel spire Iglica (The Spire) was
erected on the Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948
as part of the propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’
Meant to symbolise the soaring achievements of the
country’s newly acquired western territories since they were
‘returned’ to Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s
ideas, this one quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres,
Iglica’s peak was adorned with a spinning contraption of
mirrors which would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at
night. The apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only
hours after completion with much of it crashing to the ground
in dazzling catastrophe. The remaining dangling bits posed
quite a hazard to the expected thousands who would attend
the exhibition. To the rescue came two college students who
were part of a climbing club and volunteered to dismantle the
top of the structure for free after the military proved unable
to sort the situation due to the inclement weather. Scaling
the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 minutes, dismantling it another
six, but the boys succeeded in becoming heroes of the
enormous media spectacle. In 1964, the spire was reduced
by 10 metres for safety reasons. During Martial Law, another
daredevil climbed the tower and attached a Solidarity flag to
its zenith. Today the ugly ribbed structure continues to stand
outside Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) and is probably one
of the tallest pieces of useless bolted metal in the world.
Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre (Hala Stulecia)
I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 02,
www.halastulecia.pl. With Wrocław developing rapidly in
the late 19th century it was determined that the city required
an exhibition hall and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s
defeat at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a
timely occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall
that would figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the German
Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as official
city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing his careerpiece,
and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal was chosen over
42 others by city council despite abject objection from almost
everyone who laid eyes on the design, which resembled a
colossal concrete hatbox and would cost an enormous 1.9
million Reichmarks. Teaming with eminent architect Hans
Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the project which was
completed in 1913 and has become one of the most important
architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With
an inner diameter of 69 metres, a height of 42 metres and
a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was
called) became the highest structure of its type in the world;
that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure of radial
reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world had ever
seen. Though routinely left off lists of the world’s most attractive
buildings, one thing is undeniable: the Centennial Hall is
an engineering marvel. Building a structure of such size out
of steel and concrete was both revolutionary and extremely
daring; in fact the workers that helped build the behemoth
were afraid to go inside, so certain were they of its eventual
collapse. On the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably
survived two world wars and has in recent years hosted large
scale events including monumental operas, sporting events
and large concerts. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies
and Pope John Paul II held services during his famous visit in
1997. With the success of the Centennial Exhibition under its
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
belt, the Jahrhunderthalle was to host an even more intriguing
exhibition following World War II. Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’
(the People’s Hall), the exhibition centre became the site of
the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories
Exhibition’. The most expensive and publicised propaganda
event in the history of Poland, in the many decades following
1948’s Recovered Territories Exhibition and the coinciding
International Congress of Intellectuals, the Centennial Hall
complex continued to occasionally host large-scale events,
but until recently hadn’t really lived up to its UNESCO-listed
reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the
latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity
wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants they’re
wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list.
However, that’s no longer the case. Following a large-scale
renovation, Centennial Hall has been scrubbed clean and a
new interior exhibit not only transforms the structure from a
dubious photo-op to a bona fide tourist attraction, but also
does much to explain and justify its reputation as a modern
architectural masterpiece. Known as the Discovery Centre
(Centrum Poznawcze), this new exhibition gives visitors an
overview of Centennial Hall’s construction, its history and
its place in the pantheon of modern architecture. Most of
the information is conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays
covering topics as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers,
various world exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more
related to architecture and Wrocław specifically. In addition
to the permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery
for temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound
show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology, the
dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly complex and
precise light show that emphasises the uniqueness of the
structure and is creatively choreographed to original music.
Between the light show, the computerised displays of the
permanent exhibit and the adjacent Wrocław Fountain - there
is some serious multimedia wizardry in this corner of town
that is sure to delight architect buffs and technophiles alike.
Despite its size (the permanent exhibition only covers two
small rooms), there is much to learn and discover, so allot
at least two hours for your visit. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 21:30. From November open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Please note that the Discovery Centre
is closed to visitors during frequent special events and concerts;
check ahead. Discovery Centre: 12/9zł, permanent
exhibit plus gallery 14/11zł, permanent exhibit plus gallery
and light show 19/15zł.
Wrocław Fountain I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.wroclawskafontanna.pl.
Hang a left from in front of the main
entrance to the Centennial Hall and you’ll find yourself a
witness to one of the most magnificent attractions Wrocław
has to offer. Unveiled on June 4, 2009, in honour of the 20th
anniversary of the first free elections in post-war Poland,
Wrocław showed off one of the most stunning attractions
in the country - a whiz-bang multimedia fountain of which
only a few exist in the world. Wrocław’s new toy projects
water up to 40 metres high through an array of 300 different
nozzles which have the ability to rotate, gyrate, pulse
and even create a 700 square metre screen of water on
which animated projections can be displayed; all the while
music orchestrates the show through the park’s speakers.
Equipped with 800 lights of varying size and power, the
Wrocław Fountain even has pyrotechnic capabilities with
fireworks and lasers implausibly shooting out of the large
semicircle basin next to Hala Ludowa. The result is one of
the most dazzling, delightful displays of light, sound and
water you’ll ever see, and has been immensely popular with
crowds of over 20,000 coming out in its early weeks for the
regular evening extravaganzas. Nothing puts a stamp on
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
CENTENNIAL HALL & PARKS
the end of communism like indulging in some outrageously
expensive gadgetry; indeed, the cost of running this show
on a regular basis must be enormous, but you can see
it for free from May until the end of October (daily on the
hour from 10:00 to 22:00). Performances vary from 3.5 to
18 minutes with a short or long programme of classical
music (Wagner, Beethoven) on some hours, and modern
music (Apocalyptica, Faith No More) on the others. The real
stunners however are after dark on Friday and Saturday,
when the full functionality of the fountain is on display,
including lights. If you visit between November and April
you’ll miss the fountain unfortunately but you can still take
advantage of the area as the space is transformed into a
skating rink for the winter. For more programme specifics,
visit the official website.
Japanese Garden (Ogród Japoński) I-4, ul. Mickiewicza
(Park Szczytnicki), tel. (+48) 71 328 66 11.
Just north of the Centennial Hall, the Japanese Garden was
established in 1913 as part of the Artistic Gardening Exhibition
which accompanied the centennial celebrations and was
originally the work of Count Fritz von Hochberg and Mankichi
Arai. Despite its own share of devastation, including the
particularly cruel flood of 1997(see History) which occurred
only two months after a long restoration project (thanks in
part to the generosity of the Japanese Embassy in Warsaw),
the arrangement of the garden and its system of small
streams are part of its nearly hundred year old legacy. Two
symbolic water cascades which merge into one large pond
comprise the main attractions of the exquisitely manicured
gardens - one of the most tranquil escapes in the city. Q
Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed from November. Re-opens in
April. Admission 3/1.50zł.
Szczytnicki Park I-3/4. A stroll away from the colonnades
of the pond area puts you in Szczytnicki Park (I-3/4),
the oldest and largest recreation space in the city. Covering
115 hectares and laid out in 1785, the once well-groomed
former estate park suffered devastation during the Napoleonic
Wars and WWII and today largely resembles a natural
landscape within the city borders. While there, keep your
eyes peeled for the small Church of St. John of Nepomuk
- a marvellous 14th century wooden church moved to the
park from the Opole region and miraculously undamaged
during the war.
Getting There
The easiest way to reach Szczytnicki Park and the Centennial
Exhibition Complex is via public transport. From
the city centre hop on trams 1, 2, 4 or 10; alternatively
take buses 145 or 146 east.
September - December 2012
71

72
JEWISH WROCŁAW
Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s
Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was
an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though
consistently confronted with persecution - perhaps most
famously during the Inquisition of the 15th century when
John of Capistrano inspired the public torture and burning of
55 Jews on Plac Solny - Jews have steadily played a role in
the development of the city. By the end of the 19th century,
in fact, the Jewish community was so well integrated into
Breslau society that many Jews had achieved leading positions
in academic and scientific circles; at the time, these
men would not have been considered any less German than
they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was then known) possessed
the second largest synagogue in Germany and its Jewish
community was the third largest in the country with numbers
that had risen to 30,000 by the time Hitler came to power.
It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what befell
Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s once
magnificent main synagogue - torched on Kristallnacht
(November 9, 1938) - says enough, with only a small memorial
remembering where it once stood at ul. Łąkowa 6
(A-4). What less people are aware of is that after the war
when German Breslau became Polish Wrocław, the city’s
Jewish population actually increased dramatically beyond
its pre-war levels as the city accepted some 70,000 Jews
displaced by the war - many from the Soviet Union. Ironically,
Wrocław’s Jewish population reached its peak immediately
after WWII; however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet
Union slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced
out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the Soviet
Union that number has been resurgent again and today there
are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocław, part of a gradual
transition from tracing the past to plotting the future which
culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic reopening of the
White Stork Synagogue.
Old Jewish Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Żydowski)
E/F-7, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, www.
muzeum.miejskie.wroclaw.pl. Established in 1856, this
4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps the most well-preserved
testament to the former strength of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish
community, with over 1200 gravestones. Closed in 1942,
the cemetery quickly fell into deep neglect: in 1945 it was
turned into a fortress by the Nazis and saw fierce fighting
as evidenced by the eerie bullet holes in many of the gravestones.
Preservation began in the 1970s and in 1991 it was
opened as the Museum of Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to
the craftsmanship of its sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty
and diversity of styles and symbols on display is perhaps
unmatched anywhere. Many noteworthy figures are buried
here, including the renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the
historian Heinrich Graetz (author of the first complete history
of the Jews), Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at
the University of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed
suicide in objection to her husband’s work developing
chemical warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader
of the first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and
the parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their
tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite
these modest efforts the Ślężna Street Cemetery remains a
completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of decaying
vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of which are
stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray cats and
shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly informative
accompanying booklet makes it even more so, despite being
overpriced at 15zł. Q Open 08:00-18:00. From November
open from 08:00 till dusk. Admission is 7/5zł and comes with
a highly informative booklet which you may choose to either
return upon exiting or purchase for 15zł.
New Jewish Cemetery ul. Lotnicza 51 (Fabryczna).
Located northwest of the centre, the New Jewish Cemetery was
founded in 1902 when the Ślężna Street cemetery became too
small and is still in use by Wrocław’s Jewish community today.
That hasn’t saved it from the ravages of time however, and
like the cemetery it succeeded, it stands in sharp contrast to
the well-kept Catholic cemeteries across Poland. Comprising
11 hectares and approximately 8,000 graves, this is the fifth
largest Jewish cemetery in Poland, and as such carries an
even more powerful aura of secret beauty among its maze of
ivy-coved headstones and crumbling vaults. Likewise registered
as an historical monument for its rich diversity of aesthetic and
architectural styles, the most noteworthy tomb here is dedicated
to the Jewish soldiers of the German Army who fought and died in
WWI; their 432 names are etched into the top of the monument.
The cemetery is currently the subject of renovation work and is
only open to the pubic for a limited period (Wed 14:00-17:00,
Sun 09:00-13:00) with parts of the cemetery cordoned off
altogether. We advise that you contact the Jewish Information
Centre for updated information. Q Admission free.
The White Stork Synagogue (Synagoga pod Białym
Bocianem) E-4, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48) 71 787 39
02. The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of
Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its name
from the inn that once stood in its place. Following the design of
prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand Langhans, it is ironically
considered a sterling example of 18th century Protestant
sacral art. Discreetly hidden from view in a courtyard between
ul. Antoniego and ul. Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds
are full of beer gardens, bohemians and graffiti; however it was
here that members of the Jewish community were rounded
up for deployment to the death camps during WWII. Badly
damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only to its proximity to
residential buildings), the synagogue was literally left to rot after
the war, before the Jewish community was finally able to recover
it from the Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration.
Re-opened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a worship
space and cultural centre, with a new multi-functional hall
in the synagogue’s basement and two exhibition spaces on
the balconies. One houses a permanent exhibition about the
History of Jews in Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while the second
balcony is for temporary exhibitions. The synagogue is free to
visit for individuals, or join the daily 12:00 guided tours in Polish
or English for 10/5zł. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. From
December open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.
Useful Contacts
Jewish Information Centre E-4, ul. Włodkowica
9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39 02. Only doors away from the
White Stork Synagogue, these folks arrange Jewish walking
tours of Wrocław. They also have a wealth of books,
music and events information on hand. QOpen 10:00
- 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,
Muncipality of Wrocław
One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic attractions
is not a cathedral, not a castle or monument, but a legion
of little people: Gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local parlance), to be
precise. In Wrocław’s city centre these merry munchkins are
simply ubiquitous, dotting doorways, alleyways and street corners,
constantly underfoot but seldom seen by the unobservant.
You may well overlook the first dozen or so that cross your path,
but inevitably - and often literally - you will stumble upon these
popular local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound
to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities about
town - from guarding public space to passed-out drunk. Beloved
by locals and tourists alike, and the object of more photos than
the towering Cathedral, these prolific pranksters have become
the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s most picturesque cities.
Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist gimmick,
gnomes have long held a place in Polish folklore, and
their current iconic incarnation as symbols of Wrocław
actually has a direct correlation to the political climate of the
1980s. Under communism gnomes became the absurdist
calling card of the ‘Orange Alternative’ movement - an underground
protest movement that used absurdity and nonsense
to stage peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint
cans and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and art
history student at Wrocław University, the group specifically
ridiculed the establishment’s attempts to censor public
space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti or
public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon seeing
fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange Alternative
quickly painted over them yet again...with gnomes. As the
movement gained popularity, gnomes became inexorably
linked with the Orange Alternative and Wrocław, though they
soon began appearing in other major Polish cities as well.
For all the trouble it gave the authorities however, the Orange
Alternative was never as interested in political ideology as
buffoonery. Detained in a Łódz police station for graffiti, Major
Fydrych was happy to explain the gnomes to state authorities in
academic terms: “The thesis is the anti-regime slogan. The antithesis
is the spot and the synthesis is the gnome.” Spoken like
a true art history student. As the Orange Alternative graduated
to bigger happenings, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations
as well. International Children’s Day on June 1, 1988, was
celebrated in Wrocław by dozens of locals dressed as gnomes
and smurfs, complete with red hats and handkerchiefs, while
an anti-Chernobyl protest saw Major Fydrych handing out iconic
peaked red gnome hats to passing pedestrians. After the fall
of communism in Poland, the gnomes remained a symbol of
Wrocław, repurposed by the new regime to be a tribute to the
Orange Movement and playful city ambassadors.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
GNOMES
The first gnome in its modern statuette form was Papa Krasnal
who was placed in 2001 on the corner of ul. Świdnicka and
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), near the subway where Orange
Alternative demonstrations often took place. Commissioned
by Agora (the publisher of newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza) to
celebrate the history of the Orange Alternative, Papa Krasnal
remains perhaps the largest of his progeny. Things really took
off in 2005 when local artist Tomasz Moczek - a graduate of
the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - created five gnomes.
Commissioned by Wrocław City Council, that original quintet
consisted of: Rzeźnik on ul. Jatki (A-3), Syzyfki, the two
Sisyphus-inspired gnomes on ul. Świdnicka near the Post
Office (B-3), Pracz Odrzański (referring to one of Wrocław’s
suburbs - Pracze Odrzańskie - with a bit of wordplay around
“pracz,” the Polish word for “washer”) who can be seen washing
something in the Odra River near Piaskowy Bridge (C-2), and
Szermierz, who sadly disappeared from the subway station
under Plac Uniwersytecka (B-2). The little devils soon proved
so popular that envious local businesses got in on the game
contracting other artists to produce more. Some of the most
popular include Życzliwek (Well-Wisher Dwarf), located on the
Rynek next to the fountain (A-3), who even has his own official
holiday (November 21st), blog and Facebook page; Śpioch on
the back of the Jaś tenement house on ul. Św. Mikołaja (A-3);
and Więziennik on the parapet of the old prison building on
ul. Więzienna (B-2). Costing about 4,000zł apiece, each work
has become embedded in the hearts of the locals and now has
a GPS device embedded in its heart - a necessary precaution
after Rzeźnik also disappeared (he has since been recovered
and is back at his post on ul. Jatki).
In almost no time at all gnomes have proliferated around
Wrocław to the point that now we’re not even certain exactly
how many there are, though the little buggers are rumoured
to be running rampant to the score of nearly 180. Due to
their number and range, it really isn’t possible anymore to
find them all on your own (although trying to do so can be
a fun alternative to regular sight-seeing). To make the work
easier, head to the local tourist office at Rynek 14 (A-3),
where you can pick up a map showing where the 30 most
central gnomes are located. There is also a special, duallanguage
(Polish and English) website dedicated to Wrocław’s
gnomes - www.krasnale.pl - where you can find their history,
photos and useful information including downloadable
maps of their various locations around the city. Spend an
afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see how many of the
mischievous miscreants you can spot as you stroll around
the city, and happy hunting.
Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,
Muncipality of Wrocław
September - December 2012
73

74
FESTUNG BRESLAU
One of the biggest events to ever rock Wrocław, the epic
80-day siege of 1945 cost tens of thousands of lives and
left the town a smouldering heap of ruins. One of the most
savage sieges in modern history, the ‘Battle for Breslau’ rates
as one of the biggest human tragedies of WWII.
Prelude
Prior to WWII Wrocław, or ‘Breslau’ as it was then known, was
something of a model Nazi city, with a staggering 200,000 of
its citizens voting for Hitler’s NSDAP party in the 1933 elections.
From that moment on the Nazis cemented their grip on the city
launching a campaign of terror, and eventually murder, against
Jews and numerous other enemies of the state. Synagogues
were burnt to the ground on Kristallnacht - November 9, 1938
- and the guillotine at Kleczkowska prison saw plenty of action,
with the decapitated bodies of political prisoners donated to
Wrocław’s medical schools. Yet in spite of this sinister background
and strict rationing the citizens of wartime Wrocław
fared better than their compatriots elsewhere in the Reich. Out
of range from Allied air raids local denizens were spared the
aerial nightmare of British carpet bombings, and the city came
to be considered something of a safe haven, its population
swelling to over a million people towards the end of the conflict.
However, by the second half of 1944 the doomsday reality
of war started to dawn on the local population. Truckloads
of mangled German wounded flooded the hospitals, and with
the Red Army creeping closer the rumble of artillery could be
heard in the distance. On August 24 the city was declared a
closed stronghold, ‘Festung Breslau’, and the citizens braced
themselves for the inevitable bloodbath that was to come.
General Johann Krause was appointed commander, and set
about the daunting task of turning a picture-book city into
a fortress. Two defensive rings were constructed around
the city (with some fortifications 20km outside the centre),
supplies were stockpiled and troops mobilised. A garrison of
some 80,000 men was hurriedly raised in what was projected
to become the key defensive element on ‘The Eastern Wall’. In
reality, however, the troops were a chaotic rabble consisting
of Hitler Youth, WWI veterans, police officers and retreating
regiments. This mixed bag of men and boys were ludicrously
ill-equipped to face the full force of the looming Soviet fury.
As countdown to the impending siege began the governor
of the region, Gauleiter Karl Hanke, noted he only had two
tanks at his disposal, and weaponry that was either outdated
or captured from previous campaigns in Poland, Russia and
Yugoslavia. Even so, Hanke stubbornly refused to order an
evacuation of civilians until January 19, 1945. By this time
the majority of transport links had been smashed by Soviet
shelling, forcing many evacuees to leave the city on foot.
With temperatures sinking to -15˚C, an estimated 100,000
The Soviet Cemetery on Skowronia Góra A. Webber
A bunker near Partisan Hill used temporarily as Nazi
headquarters during the Siege A. Webber
people froze to death during this ill-fated evacuation, with
other reports of children trampled to death in the chaos
that ensued at the train station. Wrocław was in a state of
full-blown panic. Defeatism was punished by death and on
January 28 the deputy mayor, Dr. Wolfgang Spielhagen, was
executed in the main square for this very reason. Execution
squads roamed the city, murdering pessimists, looters and
anyone found shirking their duty to the Fatherland. Finally,
following a rapid advance, the advancing Soviets encircled
the city on February 15, 1945. Wrocław’s fate was sealed.
Siege
On February 16, 1945 months of waiting finally came to an
end. The Red Army launched a ferocious attack on the city,
throwing hundreds of tanks into the fray. But hopes for a quick
victory proved optimistic, and the battle soon turned into a
brutal slaughter, with both sides sustaining heavy casualties.
In the first three days alone the Soviets lost well over 70 tanks
as the conflict descended into savage street fighting. In his
excellent book, Microcosm, author Norman Davies suggests
that as a last resort measure chemical weapons produced in
Silesia were used to repel Soviet troops in the early stages of
combat, though this theory is largely open to debate. Civilians
and slave labour were called up to build fortifications, and vast
stretches of the city were demolished so bricks could be used
to strengthen defences. In a growing sign of desperation even
the University Library found itself stripped of thousands of
books, all destined for the barricades. In March the residential
area between the Szczytnicki and Grunwaldzki bridges was
levelled in order to build an improvised airstrip that would, in
theory, be Breslau’s connection to the outside world. The enormous
project was a disaster. With rations only issued to those
working, civilians were forced to work under fierce fire and as
a result over 13,000 died when the Soviets shelled the area.
But worse was to come. April 1 saw the Soviets launch a new
offensive to seize the city. A heavy bombardment saw much of
the city engulfed in flames, and hostilities were resumed once
more. With the noose tightening, Nazi HQ relocated from the
bunker on Partisan Hill to the University Library, while fighting
continued to rage in the sewers and houses on the fringes of
the city. Even with the end in sight, the Nazis fought bitterly to
the last man, crushing an ill-fated uprising by the remaining
civilians. A full five days after the Battle for Berlin had ended,
Breslau finally capitulated on May 6, the peace deal signed at
the villa on ul. Rapackiego 14. The day before Karl Hanke, the
very man who had ordered the execution of anyone caught
fleeing the city, escaped the city in a plane apparently bound for
the Czech Republic. What became of him remains a mystery.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Aftermath
For the survivors the end of the war unleashed a new enemy.
It’s estimated that approximately two million German women
were raped by Red Army soldiers, and Breslau proved no
exception as marauding packs of drunken troops sought to
celebrate the victory. With all hospitals destroyed, and the
city waterworks a pile of ruins, epidemics raged unchecked
as the city descended further into a hellish chaos. Historical
figures suggest that in total the Battle for Breslau cost the
lives of 170,000 civilians: 6,000 German troops, and 7,000
Russian. 70% of the city lay in total ruin (about 75% of that
directly attributed to Nazi efforts to fortify the city), 10km of
sewers had been dynamited and nearly 70% of electricity cut
off. Of the 30,000 registered buildings in Wrocław, 21,600
sustained damage, with an estimated 18 million cubic metres
of smashed rubble covering the city – the removal of this
war debris was to last until the 1960s. Although several
bunkers still lie scattered around the city (Park Zachodni,
Park Południowy, etc.) there is no official memorial for the
thousands of innocent victims of war. Two Soviet cemeteries
stand in the suburbs: one for officers on ul. Karkonoska,
and one for the rank and file on Skowronia Góra. Both find
themselves in state of disrepair, littered with broken glass
and graffiti. A German military cemetery and Garden of Peace
can be found 15 kilometres from Wrocław, the final resting
place of approximately 18,000 soldiers.
Declared a part of Poland under the terms of the Yalta
Agreement the new rulers of Wrocław arrived three days
after the peace deal. A new chapter in Wrocław’s history
was about to be written. Poles from the east flocked to
repopulate Wrocław, swayed by rumours of jobs, wealth
and undamaged townhouses. Over ten per cent of these
new settlers hailed from the eastern city of Lwow (now
Ukrainian L’viv) and this mass migration was to irrevocably
change Wrocław’s demographic makeup. Others hailed
from impoverished villages, with their peasant mentality
frequently blamed for harming surviving city structures:
‘heaps of coal in a bathtub, hens in an expensive piano
and a pig kept on the fourth floor of an apartment were
not rare exceptions’, so writes Beata Maciejewska in her
excellent book ‘Wrocław: History of the City’. But farm
Further Reading
Microcosm: Portrait of a Central European City
By Norman Davies & Roger Moorehouse
An excellent, encyclopaedic and engrossing book by
Davies, the guru of Polish history writing. With Wrocław
as the central character, Davies demonstrates how the
city both affects and is effected by the whirlwind events
of European history, resulting in it changing ownership,
name and size more times than any other city on the
continent. In Davies’ view, no city is better suited to
represent the Central European experience as its
unique geographical position has conspired to make it
a ‘microcosm’ and melting pot of the myriad European
concerns and conditions throughout the centuries. It’s
a convincingly made argument, as over an exhaustive
600-some pages Davies details the history of Central
Europe without ever taking the action out of Wrocław.
Starting with a horrific description of the annihilation of
Fortress Breslau in the prologue, and including plenty of
gory details of medieval urban life, if you want to read one
book about Wrocław other than the one in your hands,
make it this one.
[ISBN 0-224-06243-3, price approx. 100zł.]
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
FESTUNG BRESLAU
Memorial in the Soviet Cemetery on Skowronia Góra
A. Webber
animals eating sofas were the least of the city’s worries.
Wrocław was on the brink of anarchy, with armed gangs of
Russians, Germans and Poles roaming the streets at night,
looting, shooting and boozing. Fortunes were made from
theft, with most goods ending up in the open air bazaar
that had sprung up on Pl. Grunwaldzki; Maciejewska’s
research reveals this was the source of everything from
railway wagons loaded with bricks, to priceless paintings
dating from the 17th century. Black market trading thrived,
and the money that was flying round led to a slew of bars
and ballrooms opening, many with colourful names: Kiosk
Pod Bombą (Kiosk Under the Bomb) and Wstąp Kolego na
Jednego (Drop In For a Drink, Mate) being a couple of note.
The end of the war also signalled an active campaign to
de-Germanize the city. Newspapers launched competitions
to eliminate all traces of Wrocław’s German heritage
with monuments and street signs all falling victim to this
iconoclastic fury. By the end of 1945 as many as 300,000
Germans were still in the city, many of whom had been
temporarily relocated from Poznań, and this was a pressing
concern for the Polish authorities. Forced transports
began in July, and by January 1948 Wrocław was officially
declared to be free of German habitants (there were, in fact,
still 3,000 in the city, essentially kept on to do jobs Poles
were unqualified for).
Wrocław was chosen to host the Exhibition of Recovered Territories,
a propaganda stunt aimed at highlighting the glories
of Polish socialism. Attracting over 1.5 million visitors the
exhibition finally closed in 1948, and with that investment and
national interest in Wrocław died. For the next few years the
city was to become a feeder city for Warsaw, with priceless
works of art ferried to the capital. In 1949 approximately
200,000 bricks were sent daily up to Warsaw, with several
undamaged buildings falling victim to the demolition teams
hell-bent on rebuilding the Polish capital. Wrocław’s recovery
was still a long way away.
September - December 2012
75

76 FEATURE SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE
Świdnica Peace Church
Świdnica Peace Church (Kościół Pokoju w
Świdnicy) Pl. Pokoju 6, Świdnica, tel. (+48) 74 852
28 14, www.kosciolpokoju.pl. The last of the three
peace churches to be built is the closest to Wrocław,
about 50 kilometres southwest in Świdnica. The problem
is getting there without a car, as there are no direct trains
from Wrocław. If all goes according to plan, the trip can
be done in just over an hour. Be careful though, for not
only are there few trains, if that train is late, you could
be standing on the platform at Jaworzyna Śląska station
(not one of Poland’s finest) for much of the morning or
afternoon. Check the English option at the Polish railways
site (rozklad-pkp.pl) for train times.
Construction at Świdnica took forever, as funds were
short and work on the church continually came to a halt
due to a lack of timber. Only a donation from Hans Heinrich
of Książ (see Książ Castle) - who donated 2000 tree
trunks from the forest surrounding his castle - allowed
work to be completed, in 1657, almost five years after
the emperor had given permission for building work to
begin. Different in layout to the churches at Jawor and
Głogow it was built in the form of a Greek cross, and
when completed it was the largest wooden church in
Europe, and could accommodate 7500 worshippers.
The interior - even for those who have visited Jawor - is
some sight. Like Jawor, there are brightly decorated
galleries to accommodate the masses, and a number
of private boxes for the wealthy. The most impressive is
the domed box of the Hochberg family (who had made
construction of the church possible), topped with the
Hochberg coat of arms. The church’s astonishing altar,
added in 1752 to mark the centenary of the emperor
granting permission for the church’s construction, is one
of the finest in Poland and perhaps the most impressive
of all protestant altars anywhere in Europe. It is the work
of August Gottfried Hoffmann, a Dresden sculptor who
had settled in Świdnica, and its central scene depicts
the baptism of Christ in the River Jordan with the Holy
Spirit watching from above. Statues of Moses and
Aaron flank the scene. The church’s working Baroque
organ, installed in 1666, is original. There are a couple
of buildings in the church’s grounds that should not be
overlooked: the Belfry and the Lutherheim (Luther’s
House, originally a school), both built in 1708. If the
weather’s good, it’s also worth exploring the grounds
to take a look at the tombstones, many of which are
intricately engraved.
Świdnica, though best known as home to one of the
Churches of Peace, is itself well worth a day trip
from Wrocław. A fine medieval town that survived the
ravages of the 20th century more or less intact, it
is in the classic Polish mould, centred on a colourful
Rynek. Once in Świdnica it all comes together. The
town’s main station, Świdnica Miasto, is just a few
meters from the central Rynek, which is dominated
by the 16th century Town Hall that sits in the middle.
There is a reasonably helpful Tourist Information
Office on the far side.
Besides the Church of Peace (which is a ten minute
walk north of the Rynek) the town’s stand-out sight is
the 14th century Sts. Stanisław & Wacław Cathedral, at
103 metres the tallest church in Silesia. Find it on Plac
Jana Pawla II, one block east of the Rynek. Q Open
009:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00; Sun 15:00 - 18:00. From
November open by prior arrangement only; call at least
one work day in advance. Admission 8/5zł.
Peace Church in Świdnica, Bożena Pytel
Given their role in helping define one of the most important
peace treaties in European history, it is astonishing that so
few people outside Poland and Germany have ever heard of
the Churches of Peace. Indeed, the number of Germans and
Poles aware of the existence and importance of these unique
buildings appears to be fewer and fewer. Even many locals
of Wrocław - the nearest big city to the churches - appear
to be unaware of their status as UNESCO World Heritage
sites (a status gained in 2001).
Though three Churches of Peace were actually built in Silesia
(at Świdnica, Jawor and Głogów), the church at Głogow
burned down in 1758. (It’s worth noting that foul play has never
been entertained as a reason for the destruction of the Głogow
church: it appears to have been a mundane yet tragic fire).
Alas, as with many of Silesia’s hidden treasures, the
Churches of Peace are inordinately difficult to get to without
a car, though both are less than 70km from central Wrocław.
If the mood and the will grabs you however, they come well
recommended. With a car both can be done in a day; if using
Polish railways you will probably need to make two separate
trips from Wrocław. Even the closest church to Wrocław, at
Świdnica, requires a change of train.
But we are getting ahead of ourselves: first, a point of order...
The term Churches of Peace (in Polish Kościoły Pokoju)
does not in this case refer to the pacifist Christian churches
(Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists etc.) often
referred to as the Churches of Peace or Peace Churches. In
fact, the Churches of Peace in Silesia would be better named
Churches of the Peace, the peace in question being the Peace
of Westphalia, the collective name given to two treaties that
put an end to the most destructive and damaging war in early
modern European History, the Thirty Years War.
As such, any guide to the churches needs to be prefaced
with a rundown on the events that led up to the Thirty Years
War, its causes, its course, and its aftermath. We promise
to be as brief as possible.
Like so many wars involving the nations of central Europe,
the key players in the outbreak of the Thirty Years War were
an Emperor who died without an heir (creating a disputed
succession); religion; the authority of the state versus the
authority of the church.
In 1617, by which time it was clear that Matthias (1557-1619),
Holy Roman Emperor, would die having failed to father a child,
the two (Austrian and Spanish) branches of the Hapsburg
family, which had for centuries supplied the Emperor, named
Matthias’s cousin and closest male relative, Ferdinand II
(1578-1637), as his successor. The Spanish king, Phillip III,
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SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE
was keen for Ferdinand (a devout Catholic, raised by Jesuits
and vehemently opposed to the Reformation) to reverse
the policy of religious tolerance and reconciliation that the
Catholic yet relatively liberal Matthias had pursued. During
Matthias’s reign as emperor the Reformation had flourished
in many parts of central Europe, especially in Bohemia and
Silesia, a result of his policy of allowing individual dukedoms
and principalities to pursue religion on their own terms.
Though Matthias was not to die until 1619, Ferdinand became
de facto emperor at the end of 1617. One of his first
edicts was to suspend all protestant church building on land
the Catholic church claimed as its own (which in reality meant
almost all land in the Holy Roman Empire). In retaliation, on
May 23, 1618, a group of protestant Bohemian noblemen
threw Ferdinand’s representatives in Bohemia out of a
second floor window of Prague Castle. They landed in horse
manure, deliberately placed below the window to soften the
blow and harden the humiliation. Known as the Defenestration
of Prague, the event to all intents and purposes started
the Thirty Years War, with Bohemia - and Silesia with it - declaring
open revolt on the Empire.
For the next three decades war raged across much of
Europe, embroiling - at one stage or another - every great
European power: France, Denmark, Sweden, England, Spain,
the Netherlands, Austria, Bohemia and the Ottomans. All allied
themselves with either the protestant armies opposed to
the emperor, or with the Empire itself. Yet this was no simple
religious war. Catholic France, for example, which was attacked
from within by French Hugenots (protestants) in the 1620s,
was opposed to the Holy Roman Empire and to Spain, its rival
for hegemony in southern Europe. Yet it was French intervention
- as well as that of protestant Sweden - that created the
conditions for the end of the war in the mid-1640s. Indeed,
there had been talk of peace since 1637, when Ferdinand III
succeeded his father as Emperor. Having been a military leader
himself, Ferdinand III was appalled at the great human cost of
the war and on taking the throne had immediately sought to
make peace with France and Sweden. The war was to carry
on for another 11 years, however, by which stage Sweden was
the dominant protestant power in Europe and the destruction
of many parts of central and northern Europe total. Even the
peace negotiations lasted an inordinately long time (almost
a year), as the French and Swedish delegates on one side,
and the Hapsburgs on the other, refused to meet face to
face. The French and Swedes were based at Osnabruck, the
Hapsburgs at Munster - 80 kilometres away; a team of couriers
ferried messages between the two. The war only ended
with the Peace of Westphalia, formalised on October 24,
1648, when two separate yet complementary treaties - the
Treaty of Osnabruck and the Treaty of Munster - were signed.
The terms of the peace are far too complex for our purposes.
In one city guide-friendly sentence, we can say that there was
a trade off: what the Hapsburgs lost in territory they gained in
religious influence, and vice-versa. The states that emerged
from the war were handed central control of religious matters:
the brief age of religious autonomy for local princes, dukes
and bishops was at an end. For protestant Silesia - which
after the withdrawal of Swedish forces was once again an
integral part of the Austrian Hapsburg (and Catholic) Empire
- the consequences were manifold.
Primarily because Silesia had been under Swedish
occupation for much of the war, its towns had been
spared great physical damage. The population had not
been so lucky. Some estimates claim that as many as
two-thirds of Silesia’s population was lost to disease
(mainly plague) and starvation during the Thirty Years War.
Jawor Peace Church
Jawor Peace Church (Kościół Pokoju w
Jaworze) Park Pokoju 1, Jawor. Visiting Jawor, 80
kilometres west of Wrocław, is easier said than done. As
with Świdnica it requires a change of train at less than
lovely Jaworzyna Śląska. The church is no more than
five minutes walk from Jawor station, set in a small park
(which until 1972 was the church’s graveyard).
The church, the second to be built, was consecrated on
October 31, 1654. Though the exterior is almost identical
to the doomed church at Głogow; von Sabisch had
learnt from the earlier church’s collapse, and designed
the interior of the Jawor church to be far more stable.
He included raised galleries to create more space for
worshippers: there were originally two (today the second
and fourth). The intermediate galleries (today the first
and third) were added in the 1680s. It is these galleries
- exquisitely decorated with more than 140 scenes from
both the New and Old Testaments - that make Jawor such
an incredible sight. Amazingly, nobody knows for certain
who painted them. They have been credited by some
sources to Georg Flegel, though as Flegel apparently died
in Frankfurt in 1638, that is highly unlikely. More probable
is that one of Flegel’s students - trading on his patron’s
name - executed the paintings. Whoever did them, they
are worth hours of study, telling as they do more or less
the entire bible story from Genesis to Revelations. Look
too for the baptismal font, a gift from wealthy landowner
Georg von Schweintz in 1656, and for the two-storey main
altarpiece, added in 1672 having been cast in Kamienna
Gora. The two splendid statues on either side of the altar
are of Moses and St. John the Baptist.
If you’ve come all this way, it’s also worth taking the time
to see the town’s handsome Rynek too, the centerpiece
of which is the Town Hall, originally built in the mid 14th
century but rebuilt in 1617 and 1846. Its sublime clock
tower - to which the statues of various local heroes seem
to magically cling - survives intact in its original form since
being added in 1397. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00
- 17:00. From November open by prior arrangement only,
for groups of at least 5 people (smaller groups must pay
admission for at least 5 people); call at least one day in
advance. Admission 8/4zł.
Peace Church in Jawor, Björn Ehrlich, pl.wikipedia.org
September - December 2012
77

78
SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE
Książ Castle
Książ Castle (Zamek
Książ) ul. Piastów
Śląskich 1, Wałbrzych,
tel. (+48) 74 664 38 34,
www.ksiaz.walbrzych.
pl. Legend has it that the
original castle at Książ was
built at the end of the 13th
century by Bolko I, Duke of Świdnica and Jawor, but it is
best known as the fiefdom of the Hochberg family, who
purchased it in 1508 and owned it until 1941.
The castle we see today took shape during the 16th
century, when the central tower, walls and ramparts were
added to the original building of the ducal seat, which was
itself greatly extended. Though the Thirty Years War saw
the castle suffer invasion and conquest (first by Saxons,
then Swedes), it survived intact under the masterful
stewardship of young Hans Heinrich Hochberg (the same
Hochberg who donated trees from the Książ forests to
build the Świdnica Peace Church) who at war’s end would
redefine the castle, making it more of a stately home than
a fortress: much of the defensive wall was taken down,
and landscaped gardens replaced ramparts.
The transformation from Gothic to Baroque was carried
out by Conrad Maximilian Hochberg during the early
part of the 18th century, when the Baroque east wing
(including the Maximilian Hall, the finest part of the
castle) was added, the Summer Pavilion erected, the
main tower remodelled and the gardens extended. The
Neoclassical western and northern wings were added
in the 1910s, much to the whims of Maria Teresa Olivia
Cornwalis-West, or Daisy, as she was known. An English
aristocrat (whose brother would later be stepfather
to Winston Churchill), Daisy married Hans Heinrich XV
Hochberg in 1891.
Debt was to be their - and the castle’s - undoing. Owing
a fortune in tax the German state seized much of the
Hochberg estate in 1937. The castle itself was taken in
1941, partly to pay taxes, partly as punishment for the
perceived treason of Hans Heinrich and Daisy’s eldest
children: one served in the British army, the other the
Polish. After the war the castle was neglected and lay
partly in ruin for many years until a limited renovation in
1956; full rebuilding work did not commence until 1972.
The latest period of restoration was completed only in
2005. Much of the castle is open to visitors, including
the Maximilian Hall, the Games Salon and the exquisite
China Salon, with its delightful murals. [The main tower,
with its amazing views of the grounds and gardens, is
only open to those who sign on for a guided tour.] Best of
all, however, is simply exploring the multi-level gardens
and terraces, amongst the finest in Poland. If time allows,
you should also visit the stables of the castle’s famed
stud, which puts on dressage shows and rents horses
for riding, as well as offering riding lessons. The castle
is 70km from Wrocław, just past Świdnica. You need to
take a local train from Świdnica to Wałbrzych, and bus
No. 8 (towards Książ) from there. The bus stops at the
castle gates in the morning and evenings, and about 250
metres away during the day. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. From
October open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
to castle, terraces and stables 23/16zł; castle
and terraces only 18/13zł; terraces only 10/7zł. Guided
tours 30/25zł per person (with an opportunity to visit
the Tower for an extra 10/7zł).
Wrocław lost half of its population. So great was the human
cost that population growth in the region was stunted for
two centuries afterwards: it only really began to recover in
the latter part of the 19th century.
Though the Hapsburgs allowed Wrocław to retain its religious
privileges and to remain a protestant town, throughout the
rest of Silesia they quickly began to evict protestant priests,
confiscating their churches. However, Swedish diplomats had
inserted a clause into the Peace of Westphalia that granted
three Silesian towns - Świdnica, Jawor and Głogow - the right
to retain a protestant church, provided it was built beyond the
city’s walls, and that the Emperor personally grant permission.
Obtaining this permission took years, cost a fortune in tributes,
and required skilful diplomacy. Finally, in 1651, three plots - one
in each of the three cities - were designated as suitable for
the building of the churches, and Emperor Ferdinand III gave
his seal of approval for the construction of the first, at Głogow.
The first thing that strikes the visitor to either of the surviving
churches is that they do not look all that much like churches.
This - if you’ve been keeping up at the back of the class - was
very much the point. The rules for their construction - as written
into the Peace of Westphalia - were strict, and broken only
on pain of death. Not only did they have to be built beyond the
city walls, they had to be built of wood. They were not allowed
to have bell towers or spires and they were to be paid for by
the local communities themselves. (As the whole of Silesia
was still recovering from the ravages of the war, there was no
money for construction: it was eventually raised by appealing
to protestant communities all over Europe).
No restrictions, however, were placed on interior decoration
(this is often thought to have been an oversight), and
as a result the architect of the three churches, Albricht von
Sabisch (1610-88) - as any jaw-dropped visitor to Świdnica
or Jawor will testify - went seriously bananas. Both churches
were later fur ther embellished with towers and spires (by
which time Silesia was firmly part of the very protestant
Kingdom of Prussia), resulting in the extraordinary monuments
we view today.
The first Church of Peace to be built was that at Głogów,
105 kilometres northwest of Wrocław, where work got
under way in October 1651; the first service took place on
October 25th 1652. The church was not lucky: it fell down in
high winds in 1654, though was quickly rebuilt. It then burnt
down in 1758 (local legend states it was struck by lightning)
and was replaced by a brick church. A bomb destroyed that
during World War II, leaving just a shell which was pulled down
in the 1950s by Poland’s communist government. A sketch
of the church (the only one in existence) can be seen in the
similar-looking, though much smaller church in the village of
Pogorzeliska, 40 kilometres south.
Peace Church in Jawor, Adam Kumiszcza, pl.wikipedia.org
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Found some 160km northwest of
Wroclaw, the town of Żagań was the
site of one of the most celebrated
prison breakouts of all time.
Immortalised in the 1963 Hollywood
blockbuster The Great Escape, the
daring break from the Nazi prisonerof-war
camp Stalag Luft III has since
been ingrained into English and
Commonwealth culture. Opened in
1942 outside the German town of
Sagan (now Polish Żagań), the camp
was designed to hold thousands of
captured allied airmen, including the
moviegoods.com most persistent escapees inside
Copyright: MGM the Reich’s network of prisons.
Undeterred by tight security a hardcore band of 250 POWs, led
by Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, planned to tunnel out of the
complex before setting off independently for neutral territory.
Even though the chances of success were slim, Bushell hoped
that the very notion of 250 allied airmen loose inside the Third
Reich would be enough to create an internal security headache,
hence diverting important Nazi military resources.
Having assembled a team of forgers, craftsmen, tailors and
engineers, Bushell’s ‘escape committee’ spent months building
a trio of tunnels, all the time averting detection in what
was to become a game of cat and mouse with the camp
guards. Using improvised materials as diverse as tables,
water cans and spoons, the men created tunnels that were
a triumph of ingenuity. Prisoners moved underground on
trolleys, having entered through a concealed access point
in a shower drain. The tunnels were fitted with electric light,
ventilated by air pumps and shored up using approximately
4,000 bed boards stolen from around the camp.
Displaying a meticulous attention to detail, Bushell and his
cabal ensured escapees were provided with civilian clothes,
forged papers, currency and maps. Around 200 tonnes of
sand and earth were excavated, then carefully deposited in
the exercise yards by POWs with long bags hidden inside their
trouser legs, or inside the two other storage tunnels.
The tunnel was completed on March 24/25, 1944, but
unexpected air raids and tunnel cave-ins allowed only 76
men to make it through before camp guards uncovered the
escape. Those who did make it through set off on foot or by
rail, though poor directions and pitch darkness meant many
escapees hoping to catch trains couldn’t find the station until
daybreak - by which time the dye had been cast. In total only
two Norwegians and one Dutchman made it to safety.
On hearing of the escape a fuming Hitler initially ordered all
escapees to be shot upon recapture, as well as the camp’s
architect, security officer and the guards on duty at the
time. The Geneva Conventions prevented this original order
from being carried out, however 50 of the escapees were
executed, 17 were returned to Sagan, four were sent to
Sachenhausen and two were delivered to Colditz.
Hollywood’s Take
Film buffs should take into account that the screen version of
events took several artistic liberties - much to the irritation of
many survivors. The film is actually a highly fictionalized recounting
of the more famous of two escapes from the camp.
For those familiar with the film there wasn’t a motorbike chase
(actor Steve McQueen, a motorcycle fanatic and accomplished
rider requested it be added), nor were any Americans involved; all
U.S. prisoners had been moved to another camp several months
earlier. Inexplicably, the Bushell character was renamed Bartlett
in the film (he’s played by Richard Attenborough), a fact visitors
should keep in mind if you find yourself visiting the graves which
are in Poznań since “Bartlett” won’t be found.
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THE GREAT ESCAPE
What to See
Museum of the Prisoner of War Camps (Muzeum
Obozów Jenieckich) ul. Lotników Alianckich 6,
Żagań, tel. (+48) 68 478 49 94, www.muzeum.zagan.
pl. If you’re a fan of the movie “The Great Escape” or even
if you are just a fan of WWII flicks, Zagan will be a real treat.
The infamous Stalag Luft III which is situated out in the
woods on the outskirts of the town housed Allied prisoners
of war. The camp is only a few kilometres from the city
centre and manages to pay tribute both to the actual March
25th, 1944 escape, and to the movie, despite the fact that
their stories differ considerably. The Museum of the Prisoner
of War does a fine job recounting and recreating the
camp conditions and the escape (also paying tribute to the
film). We recommend that you first of all visit the museum
before exploring the surrounding area. You’ll find a number
of recreations meticulously constructed to reproduce the
camp in all its particulars. The watch-tower and barracks
replicas are a bit chilling as are the guard posts and signs
that read “Warning!! Upon entrance of this zone guard will
shoot”. The “Harry” Tunnel (the one used during the Great
Escape) has an impressive recreation in the front courtyard
completed by young engineering students sponsored by
the EU. The two prominent memorials in front will bring a
sober reminder of the true purpose and symbolism of the
camp. The first is a small memorial to the “Long March”
in which the surviving prisoners were brutally forced to
march through the snow west into Germany to evade the
Russian advance. The second is a huge and heart-breaking
sculpture of an emaciated starvation victim curled in the
foetal position having succumbed to the deprivations of
the camp’s environment. For those who haven’t seen the
film, all but three of the escapees were recaptured and
most were summarily executed. So, while it is an amazing
and inspiring film and place to visit, don’t expect a happy
Hollywood ending.
While you’re in the area, the town of Żagań itself has a few
sights of its own including the Augustine Monastery and
complex, the ancient city walls, the Town Hall and a slew of
old churches. Take a stroll before heading back to the train
station and lighten your mood with a little sight-seeing before
saying goodbye to living history. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Guided
tours 30zł per hour (regardless of number of people). Guided
tours in English should be booked in advance.
Getting There
To reach the camp by train you will need to make a change
en-route. A train departs Wrocław Główny train station
at 07:09 arriving in Zagan at 09:36, but you have to
manage a quick change in Legnica (26.50zł). From Żagań
train station take a local bus from the stop in front of the
station in the direction of Iłowa or Gozdnica and get off at
‘Modernbud’; this puts you 300 metres from the camp. Alternatively,
take a bus in the direction of Wesoła getting off
at ‘Staszica’ and you’re about the same distance. Tickets
cost 2zł. For later train departures to Zagan from Wrocław
Główny, the advantages of which are debateable, check
the English version of www.rozklad.pkp.pl.
To return to Wrocław on the same day there is a direct
train from Zagan at 15:46 (22zł), which arrives in Wrocław
at 18:20. Miss that and you’ll need to catch the 17:14,
which again changes in Legnica, arriving in Wrocław at
20:10 (22zł).
September - December 2012
79

80 LEISURE
Though skirt-watching and spirit-sipping in the city’s cafés
and beer gardens is perhaps the most popular local leisure
activity, our Leisure section is more designed to help you get
out and make the most of a sunny day, or stay active during
a dreary one. Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities,
Wrocław offers plenty of recreation opportunities on top
of its great architecture, nightlife and culture. With a scenic
location on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city
boasts kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as
well as kayak rentals and river cruises. Locals flock to the
Botanical and Japanese Gardens in spring time, and there
are plenty of city-centre public parks to relax in from Ostrów
Tumski to Partisan Hill (see Sightseeing). The historical
Partynice Racecourse and amazing Adrenalina Park are
outstanding day-outings, the Municipal Swimming Pools
are a hidden gem and the Water Park is one of the best in
the country. Football fans also have the chance to see one
of Poland’s biggest clubs - Śląsk Wrocław - in a brand-new
state-of-the-art stadium. Whatever your interest, be it golf or
yoga, the area has something to offer you, so use the listings
below to stay active in every season.
Adrenaline Sports
Active Poland G-4, ul. Kościuszki 25, tel. (+48) 71 341
82 10, www.activepoland.com. Active Poland organises
group activities including go-karting, paintball, shooting, rafting,
hovercraft rides, kayaking and naughtier evenings out for
the boys. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun open on request.
Kwatera Główna C-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48)
531 63 80 00, www.kwateraglowna.pl. Organised laser
tag in a specially designed maze arena for 2-10 person
groups. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
40zł per person per hour.
Le Mans ul. Czekoladowa 5-22 (Bielany Wrocławskie),
tel. (+48) 600 24 38 56, www.lemans.net.pl. A 450m
go-karting track with high speed corners available for individuals
or groups. If you can prove that it is your birthday they
will give you an 8 minute go for free. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
10 minutes 28zł, 22 mins 56zł, 35 mins 84zł, 65 mins 140zł.
X-action E-3, ul. Łęczycka 20/8, tel. (+48) 502 02 25
78, www.x-action.pl. The largest company in Lower Silesia
organising adventure activities for groups and companies,
including paintball, quads and off-road rallies in the dramatic
and beautiful terrain south of Wrocław, often followed by
campfire barbeques. In summer rafting, parachuting, hanggliding,
climbing and ballooning are also available. Prices
arranged by phone. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Bike Rental
Few things are more lovely than cycling around Wrocław on
a sunny day, as the plethora of long-legged loose-skirted
citizens doing just that will attest. Full of bridges, canals and
green riverfront, Wrocław didn’t just draw the nickname of
‘Poland’s Venice’ out of a hat at the tourist bureau. This is
one of Poland’s greenest cities with 180 kilometres of cycling
paths to back it up. Having a bike is not only a great way to
negate a night of hard living but also an ideal way to take in
the city’s natural beauty and visit further out destinations like
the lovely Szczytnicki Park (I-4/5) to the east and further
south to Rackowiecki forest (I-6). Despite a recent action
by the city to designate specific parking space for bicycles in
front of many Wrocław venues, actually renting a bike is not
nearly as easy as it should be, but hopefully our listings below
will help. If looking to rent a children’s bike, give Czerwony
Stoliczek (B-2, ul. Więzienna 6) a try.
Cinnamon B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48)
71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Cinnamon
hostel is happy to rent you a bike when you leave your ID
or 100zł as collateral. The cost is 8zł an hour, but you may
as well just leave them 30zł and take it for the entire day.
Bowling & Billiards
NEW
Bandaclub E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky
Tower), tel. (+48) 71 798 08 55, www.bandaclub.pl. In a
town that already has an unusually high number of pool halls,
this new billiards complex on the second floor of Sky Tower
puts them all to shame. Comprising 852m2 with 27 tables
total - 23 for billiards, 4 for snooker, a bar and plenty of seating,
tournaments are organised regularly and you can also
take classes under the tutelage of current Polish snooker
champ, Krzystof Wróbel. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Prices range
from 18-25zł per hour for the table of your choice.
Fuga Mundi C-5, Pl. Grunwaldzki 12-14, tel. (+48)
787 31 68 58, www.fugamundi.pl. Offering professional
billiards and snooker tables, table football and darts. There
is also a game room for smokers and a bar. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Snooker tables cost 18zł per
hour up to 16:00 and 24zł per hour after. Pool tables 14zł
per hour up to 16:00 and 22zł per hour after.
Sezam Prestiż B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 71 344
85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. Just off the main square, this
billiards bar covers 600m2 with 17 professional pool tables,
one professional snooker table and plenty of beer and spirits.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. 10-25zł/h.
NEW
SkyBowling E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky
Tower), tel. (+48) 71 712 83 33, www.skybowling.pl. Full of
shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique colour changing
ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-the-art bowling alley on the
2nd floor of Sky Tower will host the 48th Bowling World Cup from
November 24th - December 2nd. Find 24 lanes, plus a restaurant/bar
and VIP room. Pricing is quite complex and depends on
the time of day and day of the week, ranging from 20zł Monday
mornings to 85zł Friday nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe
rental included). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
Horse Riding
Partynice Racecourse (Wrocławski Tor Wyścigów
Konnych Partynice) ul. Zwycięska 2 (Krzyki), tel. (+48)
71 339 83 64, www.wtwk-partynice.pl. Opened in 1907,
this beautiful and historic horse racecourse hosts numerous
competitions including hurdle-jumping, steeplechases and
competence trials for the 160 racehorses trained there full-time.
With several racetracks - including the unique grass flat track
which ironically finishes uphill - and picturesque buildings dating
mostly from the turn of the century, Partynice Racecourse and
the surrounding parks make for a lovely outing and are a popular
family picnic spot. 60 more recreation horses are on hand, as
well as a year-round riding school, summer programs for children
and year-round hippotherapeutic classes are available, as well
as riding time with an instructor for 31-37zł. Located 7km south
of Wrocław’s city centre. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Sleigh Rides
If you’ve come from a country where the ‘Fun Police’ and
litigation have soured a lot of the good time activities you
remember as a child, suspend your disbelief and enjoy a
traditional Polish sleigh ride by heading off into the snowy
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
woods at night with a bottle of spirits and flaming torches.
Combining Sleepy Hollow creepiness with winter wonderland
romance, extreme sports excitement and campfire camaraderie,
a typical ride involves a large horse-drawn sled
with sleighbells jingling and flaming torches lighting the way
through the beautiful snow-draped countryside, while people
take turns clinging for dear life to a small sledge tied to the
back. Most include a mid-journey forest bonfire with grilled
sausages, tea or (in most cases) vodka. Great fun with the
family or friends, the companies below offer such excursions
for all ages from the season’s first snowfall.
Arat Al. Jeździecka 1, Golędzinów, tel. (+48) 604 97
21 85, www.kjarat.republika.pl. Located about 22km
from Wrocław, Arat offers sleigh rides for individuals and
groups. With a 1 hour ride priced at 200zł it is better suited
to groups, though it is often possible to join up with others to
form a group of up to 10 people. Alternatively hire the whole
sleigh for yourself. Concludes with a bonfire, but you have to
bring your own sausages. Available from the first snowfall,
give them a call in advance for details.
Malta ul. Piłsudskiego 21, Osolin, tel. (+48) 71 310
62 36, www.osolin.pl. Located about 35km from Wrocław,
the English speaking organisers here offer sleigh rides for
groups and individual guests. A 1 hour ride costs 10zł per
person or 15zł per person if you want to end your trip with
a bonfire in a wooden hut (you need to bring your own food
with you). Call in advance to negotiate details. Q Open from
the season’s first snowfall.
Spa & Beauty
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre
A-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71
342 44 92, www.tajskimasaz.pl.
Authentic Thai massages: improve
blood and limphatic circulation, release
physical and mental tension,
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of
joints and remove toxins. Performed solely by highly
qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in
Bangkok. The offer: classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,
relaxing massage with essential oils, massage
for the physically active, feet’n’legs reflexology, back &
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount
when you present this coupon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 100-300zł.
Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50,
www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Descend beneath the
grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the city’s premier
spa and wellness centres including a gym, counter-current
swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy
steam bath and salt and iodine cave. Massages, face and body
treatments are also available. Q Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness
Centre 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Swimming
Municipal Swimming Pools B-4, ul. Teatralna 10-12,
tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl. This gorgeous
complex in the very centre of Wrocław housed the city municipal
baths built between 1895-97. Over one hundred years later,
today it maintains its function as a therapeutic swimming
complex, and is one of Wrocław’s most important architectural
monuments from the 19th century (included on the National
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
LEISURE
Registry of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside,
the interior ornamentation of the four pool complex includes
sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic
tiles, polychromic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades and colonnades
inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome. Currently
serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services are also on
hand (see Spa & Beauty) so if you plan on taking a dip or lying
down for a massage in Wrocław, you’d be crazy not to do it here.
Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the website
regularly updates its posted reservation schedule, which you’d
be wise to check before thonging down to the pool. QOpen
06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 10-14zł.
Wrocław Water Park (Wrocławski Park Wodny)
F-6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.
parkwodny.wroc.pl. Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water
park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for
a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history
and high-minded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the
only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip
to Wrocław. While the main attractions are surely the indoor
and outdoor recreational swimming pools with their water
slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia slide
involving lights and music to distract you as you plummet),
wave machines, ‘wild river’ and other wonders, adults will
appreciate the Wellness Day Spa with saunas, solaria,
Jacuzzis, massage services and more. Also on hand is a
fitness centre, restaurant, cafe, bar and shop, making a trip
to the Water Park a full day’s outing, just south of the train
station. From the city centre you can usually take trams 31,
32, 15 or 8 and bus numbers 113 or 612. Q Open 09:00
- 22:40. Fitness Centre, Wellness & Spa, saunas and sport
pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact
times. Admission 19/17zł, per hour; 35/30zł for a day pass.
Max Berg
Born in the coastal town of Szczecin (then known as Stettin) in
1870, Max Berg went on to become one of the most eminent
architects of his time, and nowhere will he be remembered
more so than in Wrocław. He attended the Technische
Hochschule Charlottenburg in Berlin where his development
as a budding architect was nurtured first by Carl Schafer,
and then by Franz Adickes. On graduation he worked as a
building inspector in Frankfurt am Main, and in 1907 was
commissioned to sketch a blueprint for the redevelopment
of Berlin. These plans were never realized but that did not
stop his progress. In 1909 he was appointed Wrocław’s (then
Breslau) chief architect and set about designing his defining
work – the domed Centennial Hall (I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1). Then
known as the Jahrhunderthalle, the reinforced concrete dome
became the largest building of its kind when it was finally
unveiled in 1913, and in 2006 was awarded the status of a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Berg was a keen proponent of
the modernist style, and in particular uniform concrete structures.
Living on ul. Kopernika 19 Berg set about changing the
look of Wrocław, with structures including the hydroelectric
power station on ul. Nowy Świat and the public baths (now a
Pizza Hut) on ul. Marii Skłodowskiej Curie. His vision included
maniacal plans to knock down the buildings ringing the Rynek,
replacing them with concrete office blocks and a 20 storey
tower. His designs prompted both praise and outrage in
equal measure and many projects were canned after heated
debate. Disillusioned with his perceived lack of support he
opted for early retirement in 1925. A keen humanitarian he
refused to join the Nazis and instead dedicated the rest of
his life to the study of Christian mysticism, living out the rest
of his days in the spa town of Baden Baden.
September - December 2012
81

82 SHOPPING
Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of
queueing around the corner for the off-chance of buying a
crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shopfronts are stocked with
everything you’d expect to find in a cosmopolitan metropolis,
with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around
the market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska.
Odrzańska, Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home to
upmarket boutiques and galleries, Jatki (A-2) is known for its
row of artisan galleries, and souvenir hunters will find plenty
in the small stores hidden along the avenues underneath the
Town Hall. For familiar international labels and big brands,
look no further than one of Wrocław’s glistening new shopping
malls; there are several comfortably within the city
centre, while Magnolia Park is Wrocław’s largest consumer
temple, a short cab ride away. Lastly, don’t miss visiting Hala
Targowa for a truly Polish cultural experience while catching
a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops close early
on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.
Alcohol
You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking
culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the
country’s success at football. Indeed, nothing says ‘I’ve been
to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the
second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling
and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland
can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland.
As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir
list, even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin
are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t
miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey
vodka), Żołądkowa (herbal stomach liqueur) and Goldwasser
with its signature gold flakes.
Winnica Adoria ul. Żurawia 33, Zachowice, tel. (+48)
605 04 24 33, www.winnicaadoria.pl. When thinking of
wines made in Poland it can be difficult to imagine… well,
that they actually come from Poland. Winnica Adoria wines
come directly from a Polish vineyard about 20 kms south of
the city. You can, of course, visit their winery in person and
try some of their specialties on site. Keep in mind, however,
that you’ll need to drive back to the city at some point and
- just like everywhere else - drinking and driving is a deadly
serious matter in Poland. American owned and run since
2005, Adoria is still too young to have many older vintage
wines, but they do make Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
and others. Recent years range from 50-90 zł per bottle
and can be bought in person or online. Visit their website if
you’d like to make an excursion to Polish ‘wine country’ and
see the vineyard for yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. For
centuries amber drew craftsmen, traders and thieves to
Central Europe and the Baltic. While the thieves may be
gone, amber and its enthusiasts remain, and today Poland
is renowned for its craftsmen who handsomely shape the
fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery.
Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold
and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
Galeria Biżuterii Artystycznej Derecki E-6, ul.
Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady Wrocławskie), tel.
(+48) 691 59 43 34, www.derecki.art.pl. Unfortunately
forced to move further from the centre, this is still an excellent
shop and worth a look even if you’re not in the market for
a rare meteorite ring. Master goldsmith Sławomir Derecki
has won numerous awards and applies his skill to exclusive
amber pieces, fossils, moon rocks, crystals and more. In
addition to apparently ‘inventing’ a new kind of amber a few
years ago, Derecki is also an avid historian and collector who
incorporates authentic ancient Greek and Roman artefacts
into his work and even makes his own high-quality handmade
Roman weaponry and period costumes. What does your dad
do? QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Schubert B-3, Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48)
71 343 95 51. Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has
an impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed
jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also
offer other precious stones and metals and took a page out of
the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If amber
is on your Wroclaw to-do list, Schubert will do nicely without
killing your travel budget or drawing you away from the heart
of the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Magic Silver A-3, ul. Odrzańska 7. This small family-run
shop just off the market square specialises in high quality
silver jewellery that incorporates semi-precious stones and
certified authentic amber pieces. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From October open 11:00 -
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Art & Antiques
Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll find
no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. As you walk
about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with the
inscriptions ‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul.
Kiełbaśnicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable
dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but
there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures
to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that
is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value
out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order
first (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper dealers can
provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before
opening your wallet.
For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki
(A-2). In addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow,
most charming and possibly most touristy street, this row of
former medieval butcher stalls is today home exclusively to
artist studios and galleries, with the exception of one small
art supply shop. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit
our Culture section.
Galeria Antyki Ars Silesia A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 29,
tel. (+48) 71 372 46 91. Antiques, coins, military objects,
porcelain, glass and paintings - with a focus on Lower Silesian
art from the interwar period. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
Non-EU residents can claim VAT
refunds on purchases made in shops
bearing the Global Blue logo. The
only condition is a minimum outlay
of 200zł on your part on the item
purchased. Claim your Tax Refund
Cheque, have it stamped at customs
before claiming your money back at
your nearest Global Blue Customer
Service. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Galeria Domus A-2, ul. Jatki 7/8, tel. (+48) 71 344 53
15, www.galeriadomus.pl. Graphic art, jewellery, ceramic,
glasswork and more. Also at (A-3) ul. Więzienna 1/4. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Galeria Retro A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71
343 90 84, www.galeria-retro.com. Antique (rather than
‘retro’ in the western sense) store specialising in glassware,
ceramics, clothes and jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Inny Świat w Piwniczce Gotyckiej A-3, ul.
Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 61 03. 76 square
metres of art and antiques from all over the world located
in a gothic brick cellar. The extensive collection includes
a large range of silver, porcelain, Art Nouveau glass, Art
Deco furniture, Polish and German graphics, paintings
and sculpture. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. Opening hours could not be confirmed before
press time.
Books, Music & Film
De’ Molika B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48)
71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl. Closest thing in Wrocław
to the indy record store you’ve always wanted to open. Run
by two devoted owners this tiny shop has all the new and
vintage vinyl you won’t find in the megastores. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Empik Megastore B-3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 71
343 39 90, www.empik.com. This massive store selling
books, music, movies, video games, coffee, greeting cards
and more, also has the best selection of foreign papers
and magazines in town, though you can expect to pay a
hefty mark-up for the privelege. Dictionaries, phrase books,
maps and a limited English language fiction section are also
inside. Other locations in Magnolia Park, Pasaż Grunwaldzki
and Renoma (see Shopping Malls). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Falanster E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 609
66 13 30, www.falanster.pl. One of Wrocław’s most
switched-on venues, this hip hangout takes on many guises,
including gallery, bookstore, free trade cafe, concert venue,
and counter-culture meeting grounds, wearing all of them
well simultaneously, and with complete seriousness. Head
here to hang with local artists and activists, while enjoying
delicious coffee and perusing an expanding selection of
English-language books from Kraków’s Massolit. Recommended.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
Souvenirs & Tourist service
Geschenke & Stadtrundfährte
Pamiątki & Usługi turystyczne
Plac Solny 20, Wrocław
tel. +48 71 799 90 01
biuro@nasolnym.pl, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can most
easily be found in Wrocław’s shopping malls, though you’ll find
some clothing brands along the pedestrian streets Świdnica
and Oławska. High quality Polish brands include Reserved,
Vistula, Wittchen and Tatuum, none of which as you’ll
notice actually sound Polish, apparently part of a sly, shared
business plan to increase marketability. For a more local
take on consumerism, do some loitering around the massive
clothing market on Plac Zielińskiego (see Markets) or visit
one of the find secondhand clothing stores marked ‘Tania
Odzież’ (Cheap Clothes) you’ll see scattered about the city.
These stores range in quality, from items sorted in dishevelled
bins to others on actual hangers; many are priced by
weight and all have that distinctive embalmed babcia smell.
polish amber jewellery
with certificate of authenticity
Magic Silver
ul. Odrzańska 7B
50-113 Wrocław
puki.co@o2.pl
September - December 2012
83

84 SHOPPING
www.vena-ceramika.com.pl
ul. Rynek 4
Dziki Zachód E-4, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20b, tel. (+48)
71 717 13 00, www.dzikizachod.net. Amazing country
western clothing outfitter obscurely hidden in the basement
of an old train station. Gorgeous western shirts straight from
Colorado, cowboys boots and hats, belt buckles, badges and
more. Half authentic, half kitsch, but worth a visit. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Garderoba Vintage A-3, ul. Igielna 14/15 (entrance
from ul. Więzienna), tel. (+48) 71 341 80 77, www.garderobavintage.pl.
A large, beautiful vintage clothing boutique,
with a rather high standard for what’s on the racks. Ladies
will love this shop full of wearable treasures and lots of local
hand-made jewellery. Just off the market square and joy to
shop in. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Ubieralnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 604
63 18 67, www.ubieralnia.pl. Located inside the divine
Czekoladziarnia coffee/chocolate cafe, this small shop sells
high-quality women’s fashion and accessories by top young
local designers. Girlfriends love it. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Wittchen E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady
Wrocławskie), tel. (+48) 518 02 27 39, www.wittchen.
com. One best luxury brands in PL, Wittchen peddles highquality
hand-made leather goods, including jackets, bags,
luggage, gloves, wallets, shoes and more. All come with a
‘Certificate of Authenticity’ and a hologram to justify the
high price tag. A great place to style out the man in your life,
Wittchen is carried in many shops around Wrocław, but head
to one of the shopping malls to visit their showroom. Also in
Pasaż Grunwaldzki (H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22) and Magnolia Park
(ul. Legnicka 58). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Food & Sweets
Czekoladziarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 71
797 57 16, www.czekoladziarnia.com.pl. This rich cafe
serves a variety of desserts, fondues and chocolate drinks
you’ll have to eat with a spoon. Splash out on the chocolate
fountain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki
22/123 (Pasaż Grunwaldzki), tel. (+48) 71 796 79
46, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. This cafe, or ‘chocolate lounge’
as they call it, from Poland’s oldest chocolate brand serves
a vast menu of rich chocolate drinks, handmade pralines
and desserts in addition to selling the gamut of Wedel’s
other sweet tooth satisfiers. A lesson in the versatility of
chocolate. Also at ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park). QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Słodkie Czary Mary B-3, ul. Szewska 27-27a, tel.
(+48) 601 46 15 61, www.slodkieczarymary.pl. A
small, charming hand-made sweets shop where you
watch the candy get made before your eyes. Most of
the interior is occupied by the long work counter where
young ladies are busy rolling out the colourful candies
that cover the shop shelves as children and their parents
watch in wonder. Proper candy-making demonstrations
are conducted at 15:00, 16:00 and 17:00 weekdays,
and every hour from 12:00-17:00 on weekends. Not
only a great local gift idea, but a unique experience for
children, choose from a range of reasonably-priced lollipops
and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours
from rhubarb to whiskey-cola. QOpen 12:30 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
It’s only natural to want to have a reminder of your visit to Poland
and leave with some tangible evidence to show all those
folks back home who have no idea what or where the country
is. And if you plan on staying with a Polish family while in the
country, it’s common practice to arrive with a gift. Wrocław
being an established tourist destination, you’ll find souvenir
stalls selling chintzy rubbish all around the Old Town; while
that’s all well and good, most of this merchandise probably
wasn’t made in Poland, just like most of the Mexican food in
Poland isn’t prepared by Mexicans. Here, and throughout this
section, we’ve made an attempt to identify unique shops in
Wrocław that sell local or Polish products so we can all feel
good about where you’re spending your złoty.
Cepelia B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 55, tel. (+48) 71 780 78
77, www.cepelia.pl. For over 55 years, this well-recognised
company has been promoting and preserving Polish folk art
and handicrafts with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings,
knitwork, wickery and much more. A lot of it’s touristy
rubbish, but we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our
birthday’s coming up). Also at (B-2), Pl. Biskupa Nankiera
5/6/7. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Ceramika Bolesławiecka C-1, ul. Henryka Sienkiewicza
10, tel. (+48) 71 372 03 12, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl.
A fine selection of Poland’s universally
liked Bolesławiec folk ceramics on Ostrów Tumski. If you’re
searching for a gift for someone back home, here’s the answer.
The shop attendants speak English and German and
you can even pay by card. Mission accomplished. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Note that
Saturday opening hours may be shortened during the life
of this guide.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
DecoBazaar B-1, ul. Łokietka 6, www.decobazaar.
com. Across the river north of the market square, this
uber-hip contemporary arts and crafts gallery is worth
seeking out for its unique collection of handmade products
from Poland. A showcase of young local design, here you’ll
find plenty of original clothing, jewellery, accessories and
home decor, plus prize finds from the area’s secondhand
stores and antique fairs. QOpen 10.00 - 18.00, Sat 10.00
- 14.00. Closed Sun.
Na Solnym A-3, Pl. Solny 20, tel. (+48) 71 799 90
01, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com. This shop on Plac
Solny sells a variety of city souvenirs, in addition to arranging
tours and dispensing info. Here you’ll find a variety
of things to take home from tourist standard souvenirs
like postcards, photo albums, guide books, T-shirts,
key-chains and gnome figurines, to local hand-made
jewellery and gifts of glass, lace and ceramic. There are
also some gifts for fans of the local football side. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
Tourist Information Shop A-3, Rynek 14, tel.
(+48) 71 344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Located
smack on the market square, Wrocław’s Tourist Info
Centre is ground zero not only for info and leaflets, but
also for city-related souvenirs. Enter past the friendly
gnome outside the front door to find all manner of trinkets,
T-shirts, tote-bags, magnets, mugs (coffee and
beer), glasses (large and shot-sized), books (guides and
non-fiction), flags (Polish and EU), coasters, key-chains...
basically if you can put ‘Wrocław,’ ‘Poland’ or a gnome on
it, they’ve got it. Find a second point at ul. Sukiennice 12
(A-3, open 10:00-18:00). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. From
October open 09:00 - 19:00.
Vena Pottery (Galeria Vena) A-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48)
71 344 43 70, www.vena-ceramika.com.pl. If you aren’t
familiar with the universally-loved Bolesławiec style of Polish
ceramic, which hails from a little town not far to the west
of Wrocław, then make sure you drop into this shop on the
market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted in traditional
folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not only looks
unique and beautiful, but is also practical for everyday use.
This is one of the best collections we’ve seen anywhere and
a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with a kitchen. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Note that weekend opening hours
may change during the shelf life of this guide.
Health & Beauty
Organique Natural Cosmetics E-4, ul. Legnicka
58 (Magnolia Park), tel. (+48) 71 338 54 39, www.
organique.pl. This Polish company offers ecological,
organic cosmetics and other health and beauty products
inspired by nature. Unfortunately, they’re located
in a shopping mall so you may have to convert some
precious fossil fuels into carbon monoxide in order
to get there. Also at Galeria Dominikańska (C-3, Pl.
Dominikański 3) and Renoma (F-5, ul. Świdnicka 40).
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Perfumerie Frivole E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-
95 (Sky Tower), tel. (+48) 71 797 60 60, www.frivole.
pl. Perfume, make-up, cosmetics and beauty care products
from the world’s top brands, including Calvin Klein, Clinique,
Chanel, Estee Lauder, Armani, Gucci and more, all inside a
spacious and sexy showroom full of minimal white displays
and oddly angling gold geometric shapes. Another location
in Factory Outlet (ul. Graniczna 2). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
September - December 2012
85

86 SHOPPING
Markets
Hala Targowa C-2, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71
344 27 31. Designed by Max Berg, the same innovative
concrete engineer behind Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed
Centennial Hall, this unique market hall has a handsome,
traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a concrete
cathedral of elliptical arches. Worth a look from an
architectural, cultural and practical standpoint, in Hala
Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality
fruit and vegetables on the ground floor, as well as a wide
selection of local cheese, salami and hams. Upstairs is
a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear and
plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean
and modern public toilets. To your right as you enter the
market is one of the city’s best little no-name, no-fuss
pierogi bars. Essential. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun.
Zielińskiego Market E-5, Plac Zielińskiego. Not
far from the train station you’ll find the largest market in
Wrocław (and one of its biggest eyesores) - the focus being
on clothing. The hell with soulless shopping malls, this is
the Polish way to get ready for the season. The range of
choices is enormous, from premium suits and high-end
high heels to knock-off handbags and dodgy underwear
stretched and displayed over steering wheels. And the
prices are lower than anywhere so ostentatious as to
have a proper roof. Wearable goods aside, within these
over 300 shacks and tents you’ll also find produce and
fruit stands, pet food, plastic flowers, flashlights, incense
and other essentials. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Shopping Malls
Arkady Wrocławskie E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich
2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22, www.arkadywroclawskie.pl.
One of Wrocław’s most centrally located
shopping malls, find Arkady Wrocławskie tucked not far
behind the train station. With 110 stores across 30,000
square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail centre
include Benetton, H&M, M&S, New Yorker, Alma (the country’s
upscale grocer) and Traffic Club (for foreign press).
Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants
and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy children’s playpen and
2 storey aquarium, which they’re really quite proud of and
had to bring a powerful lift all the way from faraway Szczecin
just to install: holding 120 litres of water, the enormous
tank is under tremendous pressure held back by glass
12cms thick; home to dozens of colourful fish and coral,
the maintenance of the tank requires constant attention
so the least you could do is take a look at it while between
trying on clothes you can’t afford. Within walking distance
of most places and easily accessed by tram, once you’re
inside Arkady Wrocławskie, good luck making your way out
again. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Factory Outlet ul. Graniczna 2 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
71 374 00 45, www.factory.pl. This outlet centre close
to the Wrocław Airport is preoccupied with fashion, offering
top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping
malls. Recognisable names among the 107 brands you’ll
find here are Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, Wrangler
Lee, Big Star, Benetton, Adidas, Nike and Puma to name
ten. One of only such outlet centres in Europe - 4 in Spain
and 4 in PL, including Warsaw, Poznań and Kraków - the
concept works, so if you need some new designer stuff take
buses 107, 119, 406, 319 or 241. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Galeria Dominikańska C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, tel. (+48)
71 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl. Wrocław’s
most accessible and well-known retail monolith, Galeria
Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the Rynek, meaning
you’re likely to cross paths with it by accident and you’re probably
going to get sucked in. Among the 100 shops (including Zara, Pull
& Bear, Pepe Jeans, Tru Trussardi, Max Mara, VAN GRAAF, Media
Markt and an iSpot) you’ll also find some restaurants (Pizza Hut,
Ohh! Sushi & Grill), and we don’t even need to tell you what else
because you’re already inside, you’re on an escalator, you’re making
eyes with a mannequin, you want to touch everything, taste
it, try it on. Put the guide back in your pocket, take the wallet out.
QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower E-6, ul. Powstańców
Śląskich 73-95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.
skytower.pl. You have noticed Wrocław has beefed up its
skyline, realising the arrival of its first bonafide skyscraper
with Sky Tower, the sparkling 212m three-tiered behemoth
you see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre.
Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential
apartments, office and retail space, the ‘podium’ level alone
boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants, cafes,
services and sports facilities. Here you’ll find about 80 top
name brands, including Lee Wrangler, Reserved, Solar, Swiss
and Perfumerie Frivole Prestige, over a dozen restaurants
and cafes, a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, Banda
Club - the largest billiards club in the country, a 24-lane
bowling alley in Sky Bowling and plenty more. The design is
flat gorgeous and features a surreal Salvador Dali sculpture
outside the front entrance. Park your vehicle in one of the
1500 spots or take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
DISCOVER
WEALTH SENSATIONS
IN THE HIGHEST BUILDING
IN POLAND
SHOPPING
SKY TOWER SHOPPING MALL | MON-SAT 10 AM - 10 PM, SUN 10 AM - 9 PM
POWSTANCOW SLASKICH ST. 73-95 | TEL. 71 7383111 | WWW.GALERIA.SKYTOWER.PL
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
September - December 2012
87

88 SHOPPING
Likus Concept Store A-4, ul. Świdnicka 33 (Monopol
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 36 34, www.likusconceptstore.pl.
An established fixture in Kraków, Warsaw and
now Wrocław, the Likus Concept Store boasts carefully
chosen brands and a personalised range of botique shops.
Located inside the historic Monopol Hotel, Wrocław’s LCS
carries on their signature mix of modern design incorporating
restored architectural details to create one of the
most pleasant and refreshing retail spaces in town. Not
your typical shopping mall at all. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Magnolia Park ul. Legnicka 58 (Fabryczna),
tel. (+48) 71 338 44 66, www.magnoliapark.pl.
Opened in October 2007, Magnolia Park can be easily
interpreted as a symbol of Wrocław’s rocket blast into
the 21st century. Situated close to the city centre and
covering over 240,000 m2 Wrocław’s biggest retail
complex features designer stores Peek & Cloppenburg,
Tatuum, Camaieu, EMPiK, iSpot (the Apple computers
shop) and electronics giant Saturn. Magnolia is serviced
by nine tram and bus routes with parking for 2,800
vehicles. Reasons to visit go beyond the sheer scale
of retail opportunities; catering to the hungry masses
are names like Burger King, American Bar & Grill and
Sphinx to name but a few. Over 40,000 m2 has been
set aside for recreation alone and aside from the requisite
multiplex cinema visitors will find cycle paths,
playground, art and cultural events and an 800 metre
lake with fountains as well as plenty of parkland and
greenery and a dramatic piazza. To get there hop on
tram numbers 10 or 20 and get off at the ‘Niedźwiedzia’
stop. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Pasaż Grunwaldzki H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22, tel.
(+48) 71 335 87 22, www.pasazgrunwaldzki.pl.
Make a pilgrimage east of Ostrów Tumski’s cathedral
island and you’ll find another place of worship - this
modern retail temple with more than 200 shops over
four floors. Blown to pieces during WWII, Pasaż Grunwaldski
has revitalised what was once one of Wrocław’s
most affluent areas by pouring all the money into one
giant funnel. We’re sure you can buy a vaccuum as
well as anything else you can think of. Retail roll call:
Big Star, Ecco, Empik, H&M, Intimissimi, Levi’s, Pierre
Cardin, Reserved, Zara, here. Multiplex cinema, here.
Food court, now presiding. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Renoma F-5, ul. Świdnicka
40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58
20, www.renoma-wroclaw.
pl. One of the largest pre-war
department stores in Europe
- and the only one of its kind
remaining - this magnificent
consumer showpiece was
added to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977
and has been recently restored and modernised for today’s
retail market. The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and
gilded heads has been returned to its former glory while
inside you’ll find today’s most cutting-edge brands - TK
Maxx, New Look, River Island, Empik, Alma, Zara - and a
third floor restaurant with fine views of the Old Town. In addition
to the original building’s refurbishment, a new modern
wing has been added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the
city’s other shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it
was in our disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see
attraction, this would fit the bill.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
24hr Pharmacies
Katedralna D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71
322 73 15. A good choice if you’re north of the old town by
the Cathedral and the Botanical Garden.
Pod Lwami A-2, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343
67 24. West of Old Town near the Archeological Museum.
Pułaska G-5, ul. Pułaskiego 49a, tel. (+48) 71 789 91
38, www.herbavit.com.pl.
Business Associations
British Polish Chamber of Commerce (Brytyjsko-
Polska Izba Handlowa) E-4, ul. Legnicka 51-53, tel.
(+48) 71 733 13 75, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Lower Silesian Chamber of Commerce
(Dolnośląska Izba Gospodarcza) A-4, ul. Świdnicka
39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www.dig.wroc.pl.
The Lower Silesian Chamber of Craft (Dolnośląska
Izba Rzemieślnicza) A-3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71
344 86 91, www.izba.wroc.pl.
Western Chamber of Commerce (Zachodnia Izba
Gospodarcza) A-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43,
tel. (+48) 71 795 06 56, www.zig.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Austria ul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841 00
81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
Bulgaria Al. Ujazdowskie 33/35, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 629 40 71.
Denmark ul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.
Currency Exchange
Changing money in Wrocław is increasingly less fretful to
do, but as with most international destinations it is still
worth checking and comparing exchange rates, particularly
at entry points such as airports and in major tourist
areas. Here we check the rates of a selection of money
exchange offices (kantors) every four months. Below
were their buying rates (how many złoty you would get
for one unit of foreign currency) for 20.08.12 compared
to the following rates published by the National Bank of
Poland (NBP) for that morning: Euro 1 = 4.0342zł, US
$1 = 3.2724zł, GBP 1 = 5.1418zł.
Currency Express ul. Graniczna 190 (Airport), tel.
(+48) 71 358 12 10.
1 Euro = 3.40zł,
1 Dollar = 2.84zł,
1 Pound = 4.43zł,
No commission.
Gant E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel.
(+48) 71 338 52 60, www.gant.com.pl.
1 Euro = 3.95zł,
1 Dollar = 3.21zł,
1 Pound = 5.05zł,
No commission.
Kantor Cent ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35
02, www.centkantor.pl.
1 Euro = 4.06zł,
1 Dollar = 3.29zł,
1 Pound = 5.17zł,
No commission.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
DIRECTORY
France ul. Piękna 1, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
Germany C-4, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27
00, www.breslau.diplo.de.
Mexico Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22
646 88 00, sre.gob.mx/polonia.
Netherlands ul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22
559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Slovakia ul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525 81
10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.
Sweden ul. Bagatela 3, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 640 89
00, www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
Ukraine Al. Szucha 7, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 622 47
97, www.mfa.gov.ua/poland/pl/2257.htm.
United Kingdom ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk. Please
note that all consular services are now carried out by the
embassy in Warsaw.
Dentists
Dental Art A-6, ul. Komandorska 53a/3b, tel. (+48) 71
373 22 66, www.dental-art.pl. Open for normal appointments
from 08:00-21:00 (Sat 08:00-19:00) and emergencies
from 19:00-07:00 (so plan accordingly).
Emergency Room
4 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny ul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki),
tel. (+48) 71 766 02 08, www.4wsk.pl.
Dolnośląski Szpital Specjalistyczny - Centrum
Medycyny Ratunkowej H-5, ul. Traugutta 116,
tel. (+48) 71 789 02 00, www.szpital-marciniak.
wroclaw.pl.
International Schools
American School of Wrocław ul. Wyścigowa 63
(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 333 69 92, www.asw.org.pl/
en/. Give your child a foundation in truth, justice and the
American way at this preschool.
British International School F-6, Al. Akacjowa
10-12, tel. (+48) 71 796 68 61, www.bisc.wroclaw.
pl. Ensure that your child speaks the Queen’s English by
sending them to this British primary and secondary school.
Wroclaw International School E-5, ul. Zielińskiego
38, tel. (+48) 71 782 26 26, www.wis.fem.org.pl. Also
home to a bilingual primary and secondary school.
Private Clinics
Lux-Med (Lux-Med Centrum Medyczne) E-4,
ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.
luxmed.pl.
Medicover E-5, ul. Grabiszyńska 165, tel. (+48) 500
90 05 00, www.medicover.com. Hope you don’t end up
here (not that the people here aren’t lovely, but you know
what we mean). Also at Pl. Powstańców Śląskich 8a (E-6).
Vita Clinic (Vita Spółdzielnia Pracy Lekarzy
Specjalistów i Stomatologów) B-3, ul. Oławska 15,
tel. (+48) 71 343 35 56, www.vita-wroclaw.com.pl.
Translators & Interpreters
Express E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344
76 65, www.tlumaczy.pl. Translates to and from most of
European languages.
Versus D-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 71 372 30
11, www.versus.com.pl. Professional translation of texts,
interpreting, conference organisation and equipment hire.
September - December 2012
89

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DW.NADODRZE- Słowiańska - Nowowiejska - Piastowskapl.
Grunwaldzki - pl. Wróblewskiego - Pułaskiego -
DW. GŁÓWNY PKP - Arkady - pl. Legionów - pl. Jana
Pawła II - Mosty Mieszczańskie - Pomorska - pl. Staszica -
DW. NADODRZE
MARINO- Żmigrodzka - Trzebnicka - Dw. Nadodrze -
Słowiańska - Nowowiejska - Piastowska - pl. Grunwaldzki -
BISKUPIN
BISKUPIN- pl. Grunwaldzki- Katedra - Urząd Wojewódzki-
Galeria Dominikańska - Dworzec Główny PKP - Arkady -
KRZYKI
PILCZYCE - pl. Jana Pawła II - Kazimierza Wlk. - Galeria
Dominikańska - pl. Wróblewskiego - KSIĘŻE MAŁE
BISKUPIN- pl. Grunwaldzki - Galeria Dominikańska -
Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza - pl. Legionów -FAT-OPORÓW
KSIĘŻE MAŁE - pl.Wróblewskiego - Galeria Dominikańska-
Dw.Główny PKP- pl.Legionów -FAT- OPORÓW
KOWALE - Kromera - Jedności Narodowej- pl. Bema -
Drobnera - Most Uniwersytecki - Nowy Świat - Kazimierza
Wlk. - Krupnicza - Renoma - Arkady - KRZYKI - Arkady -
Renoma- Opera- Szewska- Most Uniwersytecki- Drobnerapl.
Bema - Jedności Narodowej- Kromera - KOWALE
MARINO - Żmigrodzka - Trzebnicka - Dw. Nadodrze -
Chrobrego - Most Uniwersytecki - Nowy Świat -
Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza - Renoma - Arkady - KRZYKI -
Arkady - Renoma - Opera - Szewska - Most Uniwersytecki -
Dw. Nadodrze - Trzebnicka - Żmigrodzka - MARINO
ZAWALNA- Trzebnicka - Dw. Nadodrze - Słowiańska -
pl. Bema - Galeria Dominikańska - Dw. Główny PKP -
Borowska - Gliniana - Armii Krajowej - TARNOGAJ
SĘPOLNO - Stadion Olimpijski - Sienkiewicza -
pl. Bema - Galeria Dominikańska - Dw. Główny PKP -
Borowska - Ślężna - PARK POŁUDNIOWY
BISKUPIN - pl. Grunwaldzki - Katedra - Galeria
Dominikańska - Kazimierza Wlk. - pl. Jana Pawła II -
LEŚNICA
KROMERA - Jedności Narodowej - pl. Bema - Galeria
Dominikańska - Dw. Głowny PKP - pl. Legionów - FAT -
GRABISZYŃSKA (CMENTARZ)
OSOBOWICE - pl. Staszica - Pomorska - Nowy Świat -
Krupnicza - Renoma - Arkady - Powstańców Śląskich -
Hallera-FAT-Grabiszyńska - pl. Legionów-pl. Jana Pawła II-
Mosty Mieszczańskie-Pomorska-pl.Staszica-OSOBOWICE
MARINO - Żmigrodzka - Bałtycka - pl. Staszica- Pomorska-
Nowy Świat - Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza - pl. Legionów -
Arkady - Dw. Główny PKP - Borowska - Ślężna - PARK
POŁUDNIOWY
SĘPOLNO - Stadion Olimpijski - Sienkiewicza - pl. Bema -
Galeria Dominikańska - Teatralna - Renoma - Arkady -
Krzyki - KLECINA
LEŚNICA - pl. Jana Pawła II - Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza -
Renoma - Arkady - Powst. Śląskich - Hallera - FAT -
OPORÓW
KROMERA - Jedności Narodowej- pl. Bema - Galeria
Dominikańska - Kazimierza Wlk. -pl. Jana Pawła II -
WROC. PARK PRZEMYSŁOWY
OSOBOWICE - pl. Staszica - Pomorska - Mosty
Mieszczańskie - pl. Jana Pawła II - pl. Legionów - FAT -
Hallera - Powst. Śląskich - Arkady - Renoma - Krupnicza -
Nowy Świat - Pomorska - pl. Staszica - OSOBOWICE
GAJ - Bardzka - Hubska - Gliniana - Borowska -
Dw. Główny PKP- Arkady - pl. Legionów - pl. Jana Pawła II-
Legnicka - Milenijna - Pilczycka - STADION WROCAW
(Królewiecka)
GAJ - Bardzka - Hubska - Gliniana - Borowska -
Dw. Główny PKP- Arkady - pl. Legionów - pl. Jana Pawła II-
Legnicka - Milenijna - Pilczycka - DOKERSKA
STADION OLIMPIJSKI - Kochanowskiego -
pl. Grunwaldzki - Galeria Dominikańska - Kazimierza Wlk. -
pl. Jana Pawła II - PILCZYCE
MARINO
6
LEŚNICA
15
23
KOWALE
6 11
8
1 7
24
STADION
WROCŁAW
(Królewiecka)
PLUS
10 20
15
14
STADION OLIMP.
PLUS
SĘPOLNO
9 17
33+
23
0 14 24
3 10 20 33+
KROMERA
ZAWALNA
0 1
0
0 1 8
6
9 17
DOKERSKA
OSOBOWICE
1 2 4 10
PLUS PLUS
24
17
BISKUPIN
PILCZYCE
33+
4
0
2 3 4 510
33+
11
15
8 9
14
6 7
24
10
2
14
0
3 10 20 31+ 32+ 33+
33+
6 7
23
WROC. PARK
PRZEMYSŁOWY
10
4
3
33+
3 4 10 23
32+
31+
17
24
14
0
0
6 7 14
20 24
3 5
2 5 8 9 11
4
15
0
15
4
32+
31+
5 11 15
32+
31+
15
0 511 15 0 2
31+ 32+
KSIĘŻE MAŁE
2 6 7 14 17 20 24
4 5 11 14 24
8 9
FAT
PLUS
14 20 24
PLUS
17
GRABISZYŃSKA (CM.)
PLUS
PLUS
PLUS
GAJ
8 31+ 32+
8
15
9
2 6 7
OPORÓW
KRZYKI
TARNOGAJ
PARK PD.
17
Courtesy of www.wroclaw.pl
N
KLECINA

96 STREET REGISTER
Al. Armii Krajowej F-7, H-7
Al. Boya-Żeleńskiego H-1
Al. Kochanowskiego I-3
Al. Kromera H-1
Al. Matejki G-3
Al. Słowackiego G-4
Anny, św. C-2
Antoniego, św. A-3
Arrasowa B-4
Bałuckiego A-5
Bałuckiego F-5
Barlickiego G-2
Barycka D-1
Barycka G-3
Baudouina de Courtenay I-2
Bema G-3
Bema, gen. C-1
Bema, gen., pl. C-1
Benedyktyńska F-3, G-3
Berenta H-1
Bernardyńska C-3
Bernardyńska G-4
Białoskórnicza A-2
Biskupia B-3
Biskupia F-4
Bogusławskiego A/B-5
Bogusławskiego F-5
Bohaterów Getta, pl. A-3
Bolesława Chrobrego F-2/3
Borna, pl. A-1
Borowska A-6
Borowska F-6
Bożego Ciała A/B-4
Bożego Ciała F-5
Braniborska E-4
Brodatego Henryka B-1
Browarna G-1/2
Brzeska D-6
Brzeska H-6
Bulwar Dunikowskiego G-4
Bulwar Włostowica G-4
Ciepła F-6/7
Cieszkowskiego I-2
Cieszyńskiego A-2
Cieszyńskiego F-4
Curie-Skłodowskiej H-4, I-4
Cybulskiego A/B-1/2
Cybulskiego F-3
Czerwonego Krzyża I-3
Czesława, bł. B-3
Czysta B-4/5
Czysta F-5
Czysty, pl. A/B-4
Dąbrowskiego G-5
Dąbrowskiego, gen. C-5
Daszyńskiego G-2, H-2/3
Dawida G-6
Dębickiego F-2
Długa E-3
Dmowskiego E-3
Dobra E-4
Dobrzyńska D-4
Dobrzyńska G-4
Dolna G-2
Dominikański, Pl. C-3
Doroty, św. A-4
Drobnera B/C-1
Drobnera F-3, G-3
Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4
Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5
Drukarska E-6/7
Drzewna E-4
Dubois A/B-1
Dubois F-3
Dworcowa B/C-5
Dworcowa G-5
Dyrekcyjna B/C-6
Dyrekcyjna F-6
Elżbiety, św. A-3
Flisacka E-2, F-2
Franciszkańska A-4
Franciszkański, pl. A-4
Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3
Gajowa C-6
Garbary A/B-2
Garncarska C-3
Gdańska H-3
Gepperta A-3
Gliniana F-6, G-6
Gnieźnieńska E-2
Górnickiego H-3
Grabiszyńska E-5
Grodzka B/C-2
Grodzka F-4, G-4
Grunwaldzka H-3/4, I-3
Grunwaldzki, pl C/D-3/4
Gwarna B-5
Gwarna F-5
Hauke-Bosaka G-5
Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4
Henryka Brodatego F-3
Henryka Pobożnego F-3
Henrykowska G-7
Hercena C-5
Hercena G-5
Hlonda, kard. D-2
Hoene-Wrońskiego H-4
Hubska C-6
Hubska G-6/7
Chemiczna H-3
Chudoby H-6
Idziego, św. C/D-2
Igielna A/B-3
Igielna F-4
Inowrocławska E-3
Jadwigi, św. C-2
Jagiełły E-3
Janickiego C-3
Janickiego G-4
Janiszewskiego H-4
Jatki A-2
Jęczmienna E-5
Jedności Narodowej B/C-1
Jedności Narodowej
F-3, G-2/3, H-2
Joannitów B-6
Joannitów F-6
Jodłowa B-3
Joliot-Curie D-2/3
Joliot-Curie G-4, H-4
Józefa, św. D-2
Kamienna E-7, G-7
Kanonia C/D-2
Kapistrana, św. C-3
Kapitulna D-2
Kard. Hlonda G-3
Kard. Wyszyńskiego
G-3/4, H-2/3
Kaszubska F-3
Katarzyny, św. B/C-3
Katedralna C/D-2
Katedralna G-3/4
Katedralny, pl. D-2
Kazimierza Jagiellończyka F-3
Kazimierza Wielkiego A/B-3/4
Kazimierza Wielkiego F-4
Kaznodziejska B-3
Kiełbaśnicza A-2/3
Kiełbaśnicza F-4
Kilińskiego C-1
Kilińskiego G-3
Kleczkowska F-2
Kluczborska G-2
Kniaziewicza C-5
Kniaziewicza G-5
Kolejowa E-5
Kołłątaja B-4/5
Komandorska A-5/6
Komandorska F-6
Kominka, kard. D-2
Komuny Paryskiej C/D-5/6
Komuny Paryskiej G-5
Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl.
B/C-5/6
Kościelny, pl. C-2
Kościuszki A-5
Kościuszki F-5, G-5
Kościuszki, pl. A/D-4/6
Kotlarska A/B-3
Kotlarska F-4
Kraińskiego C-2/3
Krakowska H-6, I-7
Krasińskiego B/C-3/4
Krasińskiego G-5
Kraszewskiego F-2
Krawiecka B-3
Kręta F-2, G-2
Krowia B-3
Krowia F-4
Krupnicza A-3
Krupnicza F-4
Krzysztofa, św., pl. B-4
Krzywa H-3
Księcia Witolda F-3
Kurkowa A-1
Kurkowa F-3
Kurzy Targ B-3
Kurzy Targ F-4
Kuźnicza B-2/3
Kuźnicza F-4
Łaciarska B-2/3
Łaciarska F-4
Ładna H-3/4
Łąka Mazurska H-1, I-1
Łąkowa A-4
Łąkowa F-5
Łazienna A-2
Łazienna F-4
Ledochowskiego D-1
Legnicka E-4
Lelewela E-5
Leszczyńskiego A-3
Lniana G-7
Łódzka F-6/7
Łokietka Władysława B-1
Lubuska E-5
Łukasińskiego D-5
Łukasińskiego G-5
Macieja, św., pl. B-1
Małachowskiego C-6
Małachowskiego F-5, G-5
Malarska A-2
Marcina, św. C-2
Marii Magdaleny, św. B-3
Marsz. Piłsudskiego E-5, F-5
Matejki, al. D-1
Mazowiecka D-3/4
Mazowiecka G-4/5
Mennicza A/B-4
Mennicza F-5
Miernicza D-5
Miernicza G-5
Mieszczańska A-1
Mieszczańska E-3, F-3
Mieszka I C-1/2
Mieszka I G-3
Michalczyka E-3
Mikołaja, św. A-3
Miła H-3/4
Minkowskiego H-3/4
Młoda H-6
Młodych Techników E-3
Modrzejewskiej A-4
Modrzejewskiej F-5
Muzealna A-4
Muzealna F-5
Myśliwska F-3
Na Grobli H-5
Na Niskich Łąkach H-6, I-6
Na Szańcach C-1
Na Szańcach G-3
Nabycińska E-4
Najświętszej Marii Panny C-2
Namysłowska G-2
Nankiera, bp., pl. B/C-2
Nasypowa A-5
Nasypowa E-5, F-5
Nauczycielska H-4
Nehringa H-4
Niemcewicza C-1
Niemcewicza G-2/3
Nobla F-3
Norwida H-4
Nowa B/C-4
Nowa F-5, G-5
Nowowiejska H-3
Nowy Świat A-2
Nowy Świat F-4
Nowy Targ, pl. B-3
Nożownicza B-2/3
Nożownicza F-4
Nyska G-7, H-7
Odrzańska A-2/3
Odrzańska F-4
Ofiar Oświęcimskich A/B-3
Ofiar Oświęcimskich F-4
Oławska B-3, C-4
Oławska F-4, G-4
Ołbińska G-2/3
Oleśnicka G-3
Orzeszkowej H-2/3
Otmuchowska G-7, I-7
Otwarta A-1
Otwarta F-3
Owsiana E-5
Pabianicka F-6
Pasterska E-1, G-1, H-2
Paulińska A/B-1
Paulińska F-3
Pawła Włodkowica E-4
Pawłowa E-5
Pestalozziego G-3
Piaskowa C-2/3
Piaskowa G-4
Piastowska H-3/4
Piłsudskiego, marsz. A/B-5
Piwna H-4
Plac Bema G-3
Plac Borna F-3
Plac Dominikański G-4
Plac Franciszkański F-4
Plac Grunwaldzki H-4, I-4
Plac J. Szeli E-5
Plac Jana Pawła II E-4
Plac Katedralny G-4
Plac Legionów E-5
Plac Nowy Targ B-3
Plac Orląt Lwowskich E-4
Plac Polski G-4
Plac Powstańców Śląskich E-7
Plac Powstańców Warszawy
G-4
Plac Powstańców
Wielkopolskich F-2
Plac Rozjezdny E-5
Plac Słowiański G-2
Plac Solny F-4
Plac Strzelecki F-2
Plac św. Krzysztofa F-4
Plac św. Mikołaja E-3
Plac Teatralny F-5
Plac Uniwersytecki F-4
Plac Westerplatte H-3
Plac Wróblewskiego G-5
Plac Zgody H-5
Podwale A/C-3/5
Podwale E-4, F-3, G-4/5
Podwórcowa F-3
Polaka H-4
Polski, pl. C-3
Pomorska A-1
Pomorska F-3
Poniatowskiego G-3
Poniatowskiego, ks. C-1
Portowa E-2
Powstańców Śląskich A-5/6
Powstańców Śląskich E-6
Powstańców Warszawy pl. D-3
Prądzyńskiego G-5, H-5
Prądzyńskiego, Igancego,
gen. D-5/6
Pretficza E-6/7
Probusa F-3
Probusa Henryka B-1
Prosta E-5
Prusa C/D-1
Prusa G-3, H-3
Przejście Garncarskie A/B-3
Przejście Żelaźnicze A/B-3
Przeskok D-1
Przeskok G-3
Ptasia F-3
Psie Budy A-3
Psie Budy F-4
Pszenna E-5
Pułaskiego G-5/6
Pułaskiego, gen. C/D-4/6
Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty
C/D-3
Rakowiecka I-5/6
Reja H-3/4
Rejtana B-5
Rejtana F-5
Reymonta F-2
Roentgena H-3/4
Roosevelta G-2/3
Rostafińskiego B-1
Rostafińskiego F-3
Rozbrat H-3
Ruska A-3
Ruska E-4, F-4
Rybacka E-4
Rydygiera B-1
Rydygiera F-3
Rychtalska G-2
Rynek A-3
Rynek F-4
Rzeźnicza A-2/3
Rzeźnicza F-4
Sądowa E-5
Siemieńskiego F-2
Sienkiewicza C/D-1
Sienkiewicza G-3, H-3, I-3
Sikorskiego E-4
Skargi F-5
Skargi, ks. B-4
Składowa A-1
Składowa F-3
Skwerowa A-6
Ślężna A/B-6
Słodowa C-2
Słowackiego, al. C/D-3
Słowackiego, wybrzeże D-3/4
Słowiańska G-2
Smoluchowskiego H-4, I-4
Śniadeckich I-3
Solny, pl. A-3
Sopocka H-3, I-3
Srocza F-3
Środkowa E-4
Śrutowa B-1
Staromłyńska C-2
Stawowa B-5
Strażnicza A/B-2
Stysia E-5
Sucha B/C-6
Sucha F-6, G-6
Sudecka E-7
Sukiennice A/B-3
Św. Anny F-3, G-3
Św. Antoniego E-4, F-4
Św. Doroty F-4/5
Św. Ducha C-2
Św. Ducha G-4
Św. Jadwigi G-3/4
Św. Józefa G-4
Św. Katarzyny F-4, G-4
Św. Mikołaja E-4, F-4
Św. Wincentego F-2/3
Świdnicka A/B-3/5
Świdnicka F-5
Świebodzka E-5
Świętokrzyska C/D-1/2
Świętokrzyska G-3
Świstackiego D-6
Świstackiego G-5/6
Swobodna A-6
Swobodna E-5, F-5/6
Szajnochy A-3
Szajnochy F-4
Szarzyńskiego H-3
Szczepińska E-4
Szczytnicka D-2
Szczytnicka G-4, H-4
Szewska B-2/4
Teatralna B-4
Teatralna F-5
Teatralny, pl. A-4
Traugutta C/D-4/5
Traugutta G-5, H-5
Trzebnicka B-1
Trzebnicka F-2/3
Ukryta H-3
Uniwersytecka B-2
Uniwersytecka F-4
Uniwersytecki, pl. B-2
Ustronie G-2
Walecznych H-3
Walońska D-4
Walońska G-5
Warzywnicza C-1
Wąska A/B-1
Wesoła F-6
Widok B-4
Widok F-4/5
Więckowskiego H-5/6
Wieczysta F-7, G-7
Wierzbowa B-4
Wierzbowa F-4/5
Więzienna B-2
Więzienna F-4
Wita Stwosza B-3
Wita Stwosza F-4
Wita, św. B-3
Witolda, ks. A/B-2
Władysława Łokietka F-3
Włodkowica E-4
Wodna B-2
Wolności, pl. A-4
Worcella C/D-4/5
Worcella G-5
Wróblewskiego, pl. D-4
Wrocławczyka H-4
Wybrzeże Conrada-
Korzeniowskiego F-2
Wybrzeże Słowackiego
G-4, 5, H-4
Wybrzeże Wyspiańskiego H-4
Wygodna G-2
Wyspa C-2
Wyszyńskiego, kard. D-1/2
Zachodnia E-3
Zakładowa F-2, G-2
Zaolziańska A-6
Zaolziańska F-6
Zapolskiej A-5
Zapolskiej F-5
Zaporoska E-5/6
Zaułek Wolski A-5
Żeromskiego D-1
Zgodna H-5
Zielińskiego E-5/6
Żiżki E-3
Zyndrama z Maszkowic A-1/2
Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3
Żytnia E-5
WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS
Absynt Hostel 30
Akira Bed & Breakfast 28
Apartamenty Przyjazne
Lokum 29
Art Apart 29
Art Hotel 23
Avantgarde 30
Best Western Prima 23
Boogie 30
Campanile Wrocław Stare
Miasto 26
Centrum Dikul 26
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast
28
Duet 26
Dwór Polski 23
Europejski 26
Europeum 26
Exclusive Apartments 29
Hotel Jana Pawła II 24
Hotel Orbis Wrocław 24
HP Park Plaza 24
Chopper Hostel 30
Ibis Budget 28
Ibis Budget Wrocław
Stadion 28
Leoapart 29
Marshal 26
Mercure Panorama 24
Mleczarnia 31
Monopol (Hotele Likus) 22
Moon Hostel 31
Novotel 26
Park Hotel Diament
Wrocław 24
Patio 26
Platinum Palace 22
Polonia 26
PURO Hotel Wrocław 24
Quality System Hotel
Wrocław 26
Qubus Hotel Wrocław 25
Radisson Blu 22
Scandic Wrocław 25
Sofitel Wrocław Old Town
23
The Granary La Suite Hotel
Wroclaw City Center 23
The One Hostel 31
Tumski 26
U Szermierzy 28
Wratislavia 31
Wrocław Capital
Apartments 29
Akropol Na Solnym 33
Akropolis 33
Amalfi 39
America Bar & Grill 32
Aquarelle 34
Armine 32
Art Restauracja i
Kawiarnia 45
Barka Tumska 34
Bernard 34
Bierhalle 34
BLT & Flatbreads 34
Brasserie 27 36
Cantina 39
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria
40
Casa Latina 43
Cegielnia 36
Cesarsko-Królewska 36
Cynamon 36
Da Andrea 40
Darea Sushi 41
Dwór Polski 45
Gallo Nero Grande 40
Gospoda Wrocławska 46
Greco 33
Green Way 49
Chatka Przy Jatkach 45
il Gusto 40
Il Peperoncino 40
Jacek i Agatka 46
JaDka 46
Karczma Lwowska 46
Kuchnia 36
Kuchnia Marche 34
Kurna Chata 46
La Maddalena 43
La Scala 40
La Vie En Rose 32
Le Bistrot Parisien 32
Lwia Brama 36
Machina Organika 49
Marina 37
Masala Indian Restaurant
33
Mexico Bar 44
Miś 46
Misz Masz 46
Mosaiq Restaurant & Wine
Lounge 37
Multifood STP 34
Novocaina 41
Ohh! Sushi 42
Pergola Bistro 37
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn 46
Piramida 45
LISTINGS INDEX 97
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendly S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Pita Pan 34
Piwnica Świdnicka 48
Pod Fredrą 48
Pod Gryfami 48
Pod Papugami 37
Pod Złotym Psem 37
Przystań 38
Quchnia Polska 48
Quorematto 41
Restauracja Acquario 43
Restauracja Monopol 48
Restauracja Patio 38
Ristorante Convivio 41
Rodeo Grill Steak House
32
Sakana 42
Sarah 42
Soho 38
Sphinx 45
Spice India 33
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
September - December 2012

98
LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX
Spinacz 38
Splendido 43
Sushi 77 42
Szajnochy 11 42
Taverna Espaniola 49
The Mexican 44
Va Bene Trattoria 41
Vega 49
Vincent 38
Wieża Ciśnień 39
Złe Mięso 49
Złota 39
CAFÉS
Afryka Coffee Tea House
50
Cafe Bar Monopol 50
Cafe de France 50
Central Cafe 50
Cocofli 50
Coffee Planet 50
Czekoladziarnia 50
Falanster 50
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar 51
Frankie's 50
Chocoffee 50
Kalaczakra 51
Kawiarnia Literatka 51
Milano Piu 51
Monsieur Cafe 51
Muffiniarnia 51
Sufi Cafe 51
NIGHTLIFE
Alive 55
Antidotum 57
Art Restauracja i
Kawiarnia 53
Bed Club 57
Bernard 53
Bezsenność 57
Bierhalle 54
BLT & Flatbreads 53
Cafe de France 53
Casa de la Musica 52
Collosseum Jazz Caffe 54
Domówka 57
Eter Club 55
Firlej 55
Graciarnia Pub 52
Guinness 52
Cherry Club 57
Chopper Bar 52
il Gusto 53
Instytut 58
Jazzda 58
John Bull Pub 53
Kalambur 58
Kredance 53
Kultowa 53
Mañana Cafe 58
Mleczarnia 53
Mleczarnia 54
Moloco 53
Nagi Kamerdyner 57
Niebo 54
Nietota 58
Niskie Łąki 54
Obsesja 58
Od Zmierzchu Do Świtu 55
Paparazzi 54
Pasja 58
Pociąg 54
Pod Papugami 55
PRL 58
Pruderia 59
Przedwojenna 57
Features Index
Pub Pod Zielonym
Kogutem 55
Puzzle Klub 58
Ragtime 54
Salvador 55
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej
57
Schody Donikąd 55
Speakeasy 55
Spiż Brewery 54
Stardust 59
Strefa Zero (Laki Zaki) 56
Synergia 59
Szajba 56
Teatr Klub 59
The Winners Pub 56
Włodkowica 21 56
Złota 53
Accommodation at a Glance 22
All Saint's Day 65
Breakfast 53
Currency Exchange 89
Dining at a Glance 32
Edith Stein 30
Facts & Figures 14
Gross-Rosen 6
Have Your Say 49
Karl Denke 24
Language Smarts 16
Live Music 55
Market Values 15
Max Berg 81
Milk Bars 46
Nightlife at a Glance 52
Partisan Hill 66
Polish Food 47
Polish Friends of Beer Party 56
Polish Name Days (Imieniny) 22
Quick Currency Convertor 15
Quick Eats 34
Raclawice Panorama 64
Smoking 52
So Where Exactly Am I? 60
Stare Jatki 64
The Maluch 25
The Ossolineum 66
Tipping Tribulations 33
Water Tower 39
Wrocław Historical Timeline 61
Wroclaw University 69
Zakąski Przekąski 57
Zbibniew Cybulski 44
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