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6<br />
foreWord<br />
The stones of Dubrovnik tell a 13-century-long tale<br />
of survival. The Roman city of Ragusa developed<br />
into a city-state encompassing the coast as far<br />
south as the Bay of Kotor, the Peljesac Peninsula<br />
and nearby islands including Mljet and Lastovo. On<br />
the walls of Korčula Town, antique cannons still aim<br />
across a narrow channel at the village of Orebić, on<br />
Peljesac. That’s because Korčula was an outpost of<br />
Dubrovnik’s rival, the Republic of Venice.<br />
Legend has it that St. Blaise appeared in a vision<br />
in 971 to warn Dubrovnik of an impending Venetian<br />
invasion. He’s been revered here ever since. But it’s<br />
appropriate that he’s the saint who is celebrated with<br />
the blessing of throats. After all, Dubrovnik remained<br />
independent and prosperous for more than a millennium<br />
on its citizens’ powers of negotiation.<br />
Now Dubrovnik has thrown open its gates to an annual<br />
invasion of thousands of visitors who come to<br />
walk its ancient streets, to see the wealth the city<br />
amassed through centuries of trade, and to stand on<br />
its mighty walls and gaze across the crystalline seas.<br />
We’ll tell you all you need to know to enjoy your visit to<br />
Dubrovnik and the entire region it once ruled.<br />
Cover story<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Draškovićeva 66<br />
Zagreb, Croatia<br />
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70<br />
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1846-0852<br />
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.<br />
Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb<br />
Cover Dubrovnik-Neretva County<br />
Tourist Board<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
A breathtaking view<br />
through the fortress of St<br />
John; the first building of<br />
the city which is today a<br />
part of the fortress was<br />
built in the 14th century.<br />
That same fortress<br />
was strengthened and<br />
further widened in the<br />
16th century and it is still<br />
preserved in its original<br />
shape. Its purpose was to<br />
defend the city harbour as<br />
it was considered to be the<br />
most important defence<br />
fortress of the city.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Višnja Arambašić<br />
Contributors Nataly Anderson,<br />
Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić,<br />
Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen, Tocher<br />
Mitchell<br />
Researcher Anita Piplović, Kristina<br />
Kovač<br />
Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan<br />
Karabogdan<br />
Photos Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
team, Dubrovnik-Neretva County<br />
Tourist Board<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
General Manager Višnja Arambašić<br />
Sales & Circulation Manager<br />
Kristijan Vukičević<br />
Krešimir Grgić<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
Account Manager Mirna Cindrić<br />
Europe <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are<br />
falling in the wake of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>’s onward<br />
march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade<br />
and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender,<br />
and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in<br />
the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana,<br />
Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and<br />
you have a full set.<br />
Elsewhere arround the <strong>Pocket</strong> Empire there are<br />
new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia),<br />
Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s<br />
top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own<br />
mini-guide. Look out for lots more new <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> mini-guides in a number of European cities<br />
this summer.<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright Dubrovnik<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>. Maps copyright<br />
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part<br />
of this publication may be reproduced<br />
in any form, except brief extracts for<br />
the purpose of review, without written<br />
permission from the publisher and<br />
copyright owner. The brand name <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> is used under license from UAB<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,<br />
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the information at the<br />
time of going to press and assume no<br />
responsibility for changes and errors.<br />
It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud<br />
of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort,<br />
however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how<br />
many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons<br />
for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a<br />
way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are<br />
known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty<br />
or boastful pride.<br />
Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls<br />
and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people<br />
of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar<br />
and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the<br />
main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called,<br />
was an island, offering some protection from attack, but,<br />
of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful<br />
citizens their shelter.<br />
That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were<br />
under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades,<br />
Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.<br />
But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the<br />
nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became<br />
a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining<br />
independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and,<br />
indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.<br />
The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other<br />
areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of<br />
Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that<br />
introducing dubrovnik<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And<br />
during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture<br />
flourished, leading to a love for harmony in ones surroundings,<br />
a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped<br />
the language of Croatian that we can hear today.<br />
This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town,<br />
this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can<br />
be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its<br />
annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this<br />
year held for the 57th time. It can also be heard – this is a<br />
city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of<br />
the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.<br />
Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also<br />
manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for<br />
example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And<br />
alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally<br />
came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see<br />
the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to<br />
the sides of buses.<br />
It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny<br />
Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might<br />
lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when<br />
the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his<br />
armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense<br />
of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results,<br />
happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved<br />
culture that’s a joy to uncover.<br />
Summer 2008<br />
7