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52<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century<br />
BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and<br />
settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources.<br />
The best preserved sites are located above fort of Vodice<br />
near Babino Polje and on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko<br />
Jezero.<br />
The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century<br />
BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in<br />
35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western<br />
side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable<br />
in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are<br />
located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.<br />
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic<br />
coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th<br />
Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in<br />
the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and<br />
some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on<br />
Restaurants<br />
Konoba Triton Babino Polje, tel. 091 20 53 531<br />
Konoba Riva Sobra, tel. 74 52 22<br />
Konoba Laura Sobra, tel. 74 51 01<br />
Konoba Lupar Zadublje, tel.74 52 35<br />
Restaurant Melita St Mary islet, tel. 74 41 45<br />
Marijina Konoba Prožurska Luka, tel. 74 61 13<br />
Konoba Maran Okuklje, tel. 74 61 86, 098 931<br />
96 01<br />
Nine Pero Matana, Pomena, tel.74 40 37<br />
Konoba Lanterna Sobra, tel.74 50 80<br />
Konoba Stermasi Saplunara, tel.74 61 79<br />
Konoba Ogigija Polače, tel.74 40 95<br />
Konoba Stella Maris Polače, tel. 74 40 59<br />
Konoba Barba Prožurska Luka, tel.74 62 00<br />
Tourist information<br />
Tourist Board Mljet tel. 74 60 25, fax 74 60 25,<br />
tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Sobra office<br />
(around the side of the café at the ferry pier): January<br />
- June: 08:00 - 13:00, closed Sundays; June - October,<br />
08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:00 daily.<br />
Tourist Board Goveđari (office actually in Polače),<br />
tel. 74 41 86, fax 74 41 86. January - June, 08:00 -<br />
13:00, closed Saturdays & Sundays; June, September,<br />
08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, closed Sundays; July,<br />
August: 08:00 - 20:00 daily.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
the western end of the mountain for about another 300 years,<br />
until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ,<br />
between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including<br />
mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and<br />
arrows, were discovered in 1938.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1151, Desa of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet<br />
to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia.<br />
Their arrival saw the construction of a church and grand<br />
monastery (1177 - 1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero.<br />
Dubrovnik (latin: Ragusa) acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in<br />
1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410<br />
when Dubrovnik, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet.<br />
Dubrovnik held the island until the dissolution of the Republic<br />
under Napoleon in 1808.<br />
What to See:<br />
National Park Mljet (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište<br />
2, Goveđari, tel. 74 40 41, fax. 74 40 43, np-mljet@<br />
np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.<br />
Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The<br />
park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western<br />
end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline<br />
beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small<br />
Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače<br />
and Goveđari all lie within park boundaries. Of interest, this<br />
park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect<br />
the native eco-system in the Adriatic.<br />
The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo<br />
Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-meter-long<br />
channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko<br />
Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to<br />
power mills during the Middle Ages, switching direction every<br />
six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer path<br />
that circumnavigates the lakes, and other paths wind up and<br />
over the hills. It’s ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but scuba<br />
diving and motor boats are not permitted.<br />
The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers,<br />
steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and<br />
most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant<br />
of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used<br />
for farming or herding. Nevertheless, in a1917 fire it took out<br />
many of the deciduous forests.<br />
Tickets to the park cost 90 kn and can be purchased at<br />
booths in Polače and Pomena, and at the Hotel Odisej.<br />
Admission includes the ferry to St Marija Island in the middle<br />
of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the Benedictine monastery<br />
and a restaurant.<br />
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Marija<br />
(Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island<br />
of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a<br />
time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center.<br />
Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in<br />
autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and<br />
peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th<br />
Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque<br />
church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal<br />
lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture<br />
and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over<br />
the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs<br />
of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance<br />
features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church<br />
portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure<br />
of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added<br />
during the 16th and 17th centuries. <strong>In</strong> 1809, during the rule<br />
of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian<br />
Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until<br />
1941. <strong>In</strong> 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given<br />
back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the<br />
church’s inauguration.<br />
The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a<br />
restaurant in the monastery cellars, the buildings are<br />
unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
Summer 2008<br />
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