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24<br />
cafÉs<br />
<strong>In</strong> Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not<br />
worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This<br />
process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders<br />
wondering who the hell does any work around here. So<br />
the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good.<br />
The standard espresso and cappuccino are available<br />
everywhere, while a latte here is called a “bijela kava”<br />
(white coffee).<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3, tel. 098 85 49 54. Among the<br />
many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this<br />
is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music.<br />
It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. P<br />
Biker’s Cafe L-5, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. 091 764<br />
69 19, info@bikers-caffe.com, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.<br />
hr, www.bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourhood<br />
just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up<br />
with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will<br />
try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 03:00. PNGB<br />
Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 11 48, fax 32 23 73,<br />
info@caffefestival.com. This coffee house right on Stradun<br />
is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate<br />
to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up<br />
a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location<br />
couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. PAB<br />
GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. 32 12 05 / press<br />
2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. A kavana is a<br />
Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing<br />
about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location,<br />
is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a<br />
selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni<br />
and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJAB<br />
Laura L-5, Frana Supila 1, tel. 098 42 82 78, lmrkic@<br />
acmt.hr. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over<br />
the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is<br />
phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and<br />
local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost.<br />
Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 03:00. PB<br />
Talir C-2, Antuninska 5. A classy spot to sup your coffee<br />
amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not<br />
enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings,<br />
you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. PB<br />
We’ve written this guide for high season, which features a<br />
city teeming with tourists and Croatian party people ready<br />
to see in the dawn. Dubrovnik is more geared to highbrow<br />
culture than to nightlife, but there is enough going on in<br />
high season to keep night owls happy. Croatians like to<br />
put their best face forward when they hit town, so don’t<br />
be surprised if your cargo pants make you feel like you’ve<br />
wandered in from the homeless shelter.<br />
Bars<br />
Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. 32 10 65 / press 1/<br />
098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.<br />
hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden<br />
galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden<br />
tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight),<br />
have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot<br />
of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or combination.<br />
Spectacular. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PAEB<br />
Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s<br />
tower, tel. 32 40 53/ 098 36 19 34. What a place to<br />
sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the<br />
Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks<br />
only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and<br />
hedonistic mood make up for everything. QOpen 08:30 -<br />
03:00. B<br />
Capitano A-1, Između vrta 2, tel. 098 36 64 70. This<br />
bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it<br />
transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans<br />
which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance,<br />
occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed<br />
to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PNGB<br />
Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel. 32 34 89. On a<br />
fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great<br />
outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad<br />
either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails<br />
are well priced. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PB<br />
None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. 098 915 99 09/<br />
091 466 67 86. A perfect spot for people-watching on<br />
comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you<br />
can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place<br />
does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The<br />
toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
02:00. PNB<br />
Porto Srebreno 10, Mlini, tel. 48 70 78. It’s a hop out<br />
of town in the village of Srebreno (you can get there on the<br />
bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern space which<br />
serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar with dancing<br />
by night has proved to be very popular with local trendsters<br />
at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.<br />
PGB<br />
nightLife<br />
Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana 5,<br />
tel. 32 34 76. It’s hard to beat a warm evening spent here<br />
toe-tapping to mellow jazz (live acts too), with your supersize<br />
view onto the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so<br />
we’ll forgive the significantly above-average prices. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 02:00. NB<br />
Boats<br />
Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. 35 81 08/ 091 660<br />
00 05; 091 358 18 88, fax 35 81 10, info@karaka.<br />
info, www.karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this<br />
beautiful replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of<br />
the 16th century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s<br />
not carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. QOpen<br />
20:00 - 01:00. AG<br />
Casinos<br />
Golden Sun Casino G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel<br />
Rixos Libertas), tel. 63 85 88, fax 63 85 81, marketing@<br />
major.hr, www.major.hr. A super fancy casino in the<br />
Rixos Libertas Hotel. Q Open 24h (bar and slot machines),<br />
18:00-06:00 (gambling tables). EK<br />
Clubs<br />
Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel./fax 31 28 70, fuego.du@<br />
yahoo.com. A proper little club on Pile. As the name<br />
suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other<br />
nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on<br />
hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de<br />
vivre, who really cares? QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNGB<br />
Lazareti L-5, Frana Supila 8, tel./fax 32 46 33, arl@<br />
du.htnet.hr, www.arl.hr. A superb stone spaces in the<br />
former quarantine house is given over to happenings of<br />
an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning<br />
electronica. <strong>In</strong>ternational multimedia festival includes<br />
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.<br />
Living Room J-4, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. 46 86 52/<br />
091 567 26 32, www.livingroom.com.hr. A café/bar<br />
that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual<br />
chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and<br />
well known for its fine coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sun. PNGBW<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
Summer 2008<br />
25
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