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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
<strong>DUBROVNIK</strong><br />
N°3 - free copy<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2008<br />
Ancient charm<br />
A city of culture to enchant<br />
your heart.
Contents<br />
<strong>In</strong>troducing Dubrovnik 7<br />
What’s it all about?<br />
Arriving in Dubrovnik 8<br />
Where the action is<br />
Glossary 9<br />
Don’t get caught with your trousers down<br />
Culture & Events 10<br />
Renaissance art to island reggae<br />
Where to stay 11<br />
Home sweet home<br />
Restaurants 19<br />
Enjoy the riches<br />
Cafés 24<br />
Where to watch the world go by<br />
Nightlife 25<br />
Join the beautiful people<br />
What to see 27<br />
Those sights explained<br />
Sport 33<br />
The big blue<br />
contents<br />
Mail & Phones 34<br />
“I just called to say I luuuurve you…”<br />
Getting around 35<br />
An explorer’s bible<br />
Shopping 44<br />
Take a little piece of my heart<br />
Business Directory 46<br />
Banks and stuff<br />
Lifestyle Directory 48<br />
Important numbers<br />
Dubrovnik Neretva County 49<br />
Out and about around the city<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
Street index 60<br />
City centre map 62<br />
City map 64<br />
County map 66<br />
Country map 67<br />
Summer 2008<br />
5
6<br />
foreWord<br />
The stones of Dubrovnik tell a 13-century-long tale<br />
of survival. The Roman city of Ragusa developed<br />
into a city-state encompassing the coast as far<br />
south as the Bay of Kotor, the Peljesac Peninsula<br />
and nearby islands including Mljet and Lastovo. On<br />
the walls of Korčula Town, antique cannons still aim<br />
across a narrow channel at the village of Orebić, on<br />
Peljesac. That’s because Korčula was an outpost of<br />
Dubrovnik’s rival, the Republic of Venice.<br />
Legend has it that St. Blaise appeared in a vision<br />
in 971 to warn Dubrovnik of an impending Venetian<br />
invasion. He’s been revered here ever since. But it’s<br />
appropriate that he’s the saint who is celebrated with<br />
the blessing of throats. After all, Dubrovnik remained<br />
independent and prosperous for more than a millennium<br />
on its citizens’ powers of negotiation.<br />
Now Dubrovnik has thrown open its gates to an annual<br />
invasion of thousands of visitors who come to<br />
walk its ancient streets, to see the wealth the city<br />
amassed through centuries of trade, and to stand on<br />
its mighty walls and gaze across the crystalline seas.<br />
We’ll tell you all you need to know to enjoy your visit to<br />
Dubrovnik and the entire region it once ruled.<br />
Cover story<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Draškovićeva 66<br />
Zagreb, Croatia<br />
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70<br />
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1846-0852<br />
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.<br />
Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb<br />
Cover Dubrovnik-Neretva County<br />
Tourist Board<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
A breathtaking view<br />
through the fortress of St<br />
John; the first building of<br />
the city which is today a<br />
part of the fortress was<br />
built in the 14th century.<br />
That same fortress<br />
was strengthened and<br />
further widened in the<br />
16th century and it is still<br />
preserved in its original<br />
shape. Its purpose was to<br />
defend the city harbour as<br />
it was considered to be the<br />
most important defence<br />
fortress of the city.<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Višnja Arambašić<br />
Contributors Nataly Anderson,<br />
Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić,<br />
Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen, Tocher<br />
Mitchell<br />
Researcher Anita Piplović, Kristina<br />
Kovač<br />
Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan<br />
Karabogdan<br />
Photos Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
team, Dubrovnik-Neretva County<br />
Tourist Board<br />
Sales & Circulation<br />
General Manager Višnja Arambašić<br />
Sales & Circulation Manager<br />
Kristijan Vukičević<br />
Krešimir Grgić<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
Account Manager Mirna Cindrić<br />
Europe <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are<br />
falling in the wake of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>’s onward<br />
march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade<br />
and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender,<br />
and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in<br />
the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana,<br />
Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and<br />
you have a full set.<br />
Elsewhere arround the <strong>Pocket</strong> Empire there are<br />
new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia),<br />
Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s<br />
top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own<br />
mini-guide. Look out for lots more new <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> mini-guides in a number of European cities<br />
this summer.<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright Dubrovnik<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>. Maps copyright<br />
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part<br />
of this publication may be reproduced<br />
in any form, except brief extracts for<br />
the purpose of review, without written<br />
permission from the publisher and<br />
copyright owner. The brand name <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> is used under license from UAB<br />
<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,<br />
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />
Editor’s note<br />
The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
guides is independent from paid-for<br />
advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />
clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />
readers‘ comments and suggestions.<br />
We have made every effort to ensure<br />
the accuracy of the information at the<br />
time of going to press and assume no<br />
responsibility for changes and errors.<br />
It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud<br />
of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort,<br />
however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how<br />
many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons<br />
for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a<br />
way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are<br />
known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty<br />
or boastful pride.<br />
Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls<br />
and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people<br />
of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar<br />
and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the<br />
main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called,<br />
was an island, offering some protection from attack, but,<br />
of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful<br />
citizens their shelter.<br />
That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were<br />
under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades,<br />
Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.<br />
But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the<br />
nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became<br />
a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining<br />
independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and,<br />
indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.<br />
The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other<br />
areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of<br />
Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that<br />
introducing dubrovnik<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And<br />
during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture<br />
flourished, leading to a love for harmony in ones surroundings,<br />
a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped<br />
the language of Croatian that we can hear today.<br />
This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town,<br />
this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can<br />
be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its<br />
annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this<br />
year held for the 57th time. It can also be heard – this is a<br />
city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of<br />
the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.<br />
Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also<br />
manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for<br />
example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And<br />
alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally<br />
came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see<br />
the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to<br />
the sides of buses.<br />
It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny<br />
Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might<br />
lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when<br />
the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his<br />
armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense<br />
of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results,<br />
happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved<br />
culture that’s a joy to uncover.<br />
Summer 2008<br />
7
8 arriving in dubrovnik<br />
Tourist information<br />
Tourist Board Dubrovnik C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić<br />
1/II, tel. 32 38 87, fax 32 37 25, e-mail: info@<br />
tzdubrovnik.hr<br />
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board<br />
C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1/1, tel. 32 49 99, fax 32 42 24,<br />
info@visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr<br />
Association of Tourist Guides Dubrovnik C/D/3,<br />
Gundulićeva poljana 9, Tel. 32 36 08, fax 32 47 33,<br />
vodici.dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr. QOpen: Mon-Fri<br />
10:00 – 12:00.<br />
By plane<br />
Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s<br />
small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant and café,<br />
plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post office<br />
and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall.<br />
Parking costs 5kn per hour and 30kn per day. The pay<br />
machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts<br />
credit cards. Getting to town: Most airlines organise buses<br />
to meet their flights - please check with your operator. A one<br />
way ticket to town costs 35kn. If your cheapskate airline<br />
has neglected you in this way, you’ll be reduced to forking<br />
out for a taxi - expect to pay 200kn (30EUR) to get to the<br />
city centre.<br />
By boat<br />
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries old<br />
harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, or the<br />
commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and<br />
quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.<br />
Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the<br />
world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers.<br />
Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good<br />
accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there.<br />
There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and<br />
loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks<br />
onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels<br />
are located. To get to the centre of town, hop on an orange<br />
bus number 1A, 1B or 8. A ticket for a single trip costs 10kn<br />
if you buy it in a news kiosk, 12kn if you buy it on board. You<br />
must stamp your ticket on entry.<br />
By car<br />
For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik.<br />
Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re<br />
safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware<br />
that during weekends approaching August, all roads become<br />
catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway<br />
toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach<br />
Dubrovnik, you can either travel: Via Split: From Split,<br />
follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the<br />
coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible bottleneck). Just<br />
south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to<br />
Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card<br />
handy. Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH”<br />
from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the<br />
roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes,<br />
Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably<br />
quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair<br />
city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way<br />
system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have<br />
a map handy! Check out the Croatian Automobile Club<br />
website at www.hak.hr for traffic information, or keep an<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
By coach<br />
The city has a brand spanking new coach station close to the<br />
Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry<br />
terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open<br />
05:30-22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing<br />
money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs<br />
and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost<br />
3kn. Left luggage: the garderoba works 0-24, 10kn per<br />
day. Public phones are on the platform. Shops and cafes:<br />
there is a news kiosk, plus a large Konzum supermarket next<br />
door (open 0-24). Getting to town: buses to town stop right<br />
outside the station, take lines 1A or 1B. Tickets cost 10kn<br />
from the driver. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 970.<br />
By train<br />
Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve<br />
Dubrovnik, although it is possible to travel to Ploče and<br />
head south by bus.<br />
Basic data<br />
Population:<br />
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460<br />
Dubrovnik Neretva County: 122.870<br />
Dubrovnik (April 2001): 30.436<br />
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.<br />
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro,<br />
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border<br />
with Italy.<br />
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction<br />
for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some<br />
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named<br />
some of its most pure!<br />
Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County<br />
measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea.<br />
Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian<br />
coast, 47 of them inhabited.<br />
Climate: Mediterranean<br />
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time<br />
Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00<br />
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in<br />
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.<br />
ear open for traffic news in English on the radio. www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Take a hike!<br />
<strong>In</strong> Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around<br />
the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres.<br />
After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula,<br />
or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala<br />
Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount<br />
Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb with no shade, but with the<br />
prospect of the city laid out at your feet as your reward.<br />
Konavle has some good walking routes taking in villages,<br />
peaks, remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist<br />
office in Cavtat for a map.<br />
Customs<br />
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats,<br />
sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you<br />
will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep<br />
receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border<br />
customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or<br />
cultural works must receive export approval before purchase.<br />
Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. 01 459 13<br />
33, www.mfin.hr.<br />
Electricity<br />
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the<br />
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical<br />
appliances.<br />
Health & Safety<br />
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye<br />
should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless.<br />
Policija (Police) are generally helpful in times of crisis;<br />
keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of<br />
identity documents, so keep some identification on you at<br />
all times.<br />
Money<br />
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as<br />
well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours<br />
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,<br />
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash<br />
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the<br />
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount<br />
of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that<br />
let you put it on plastic could be a problem.<br />
Toilets<br />
Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option<br />
is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail<br />
yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street<br />
Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re<br />
Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.<br />
Roads<br />
Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about<br />
the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed<br />
law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%.<br />
But recent developments have seen this law changed yet<br />
again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of<br />
age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however,<br />
over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective<br />
June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate<br />
the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous<br />
terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And<br />
the police are enforcing it.<br />
gLossary<br />
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol<br />
does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway<br />
and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways.<br />
The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless<br />
otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph<br />
on highways.<br />
On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped<br />
for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving<br />
licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate,<br />
so make sure to always keep them with you.<br />
Smoking<br />
Cigarettes: public menace or personal right? The debate<br />
rages on in countries throughout the world, but not so much<br />
in Croatia at the present time. If you’re used to restaurants,<br />
cafés and clubs being completely smoke-free environments,<br />
prepare for a bit of a change when you arrive in Dubrovnik.<br />
Cigarette smoke wafts freely through virtually every bar,<br />
restaurant or café you’ll visit. There are a few restaurants<br />
that have non-smoking sections so it never hurts to ask,<br />
but don’t count on having the luxury of fresh-smelling clothing<br />
for long.<br />
Tipping<br />
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about<br />
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and<br />
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a<br />
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round<br />
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to<br />
tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a<br />
classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?<br />
Water<br />
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.<br />
Climate<br />
Temperature, °C<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
-10<br />
Rainfall, mm<br />
100<br />
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D<br />
National holidays<br />
January 1 New Year’s Day<br />
January 6 Epiphany<br />
March 24 Easter Monday<br />
May 1 <strong>In</strong>ternational Workers' Day<br />
May 22 Corpus Christi<br />
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day<br />
June 25 Statehood Day<br />
August 5 Victory and Homeland<br />
Thanksgiving Day<br />
August 15 Feast of the Assumption<br />
October 8 <strong>In</strong>dependence Day<br />
November 1 All Saints’ Day<br />
December 25 Christmas<br />
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day<br />
75<br />
50<br />
25<br />
0<br />
Summer 2008<br />
9
10 cuLture & events<br />
01.05 - 31.10. Art Pavilion/ <strong>Your</strong> Black Horizon The<br />
island of Lopud is the first destination in which the T-BA21<br />
foundation chose for presenting the Pavilion after its huge<br />
success at the Venetian Biennial. See how this glorious island<br />
is transformed into a cultural and modern art location. Lopud<br />
island, every day from 11am till 5pm.<br />
20 - 27.06. The Dubrovnik Historical Festival Step back<br />
into medieval chivalry as Dubrovnik reignites its historical<br />
past with knights jousting, renaissance dancing, music,<br />
street theatre and historical stories. Witness the making<br />
of products from wood, stone, ceramics, leather, metal and<br />
other materials according to ancient methods. Tickle your<br />
tummies with authentic foods such as dry figs, proscioutto,<br />
cheese in oil, sweets and cakes prepared according to<br />
middle ages recipes. Boškovićeva poljana, Stradun,<br />
Knežev dvor<br />
27.06 - 02.07 The 4th Libertas Film Festival This<br />
independent international festival on feature film, documentary<br />
and short film will this year present over 50 films from across<br />
the globe. The winners in each category will be presented<br />
with the ‘Dubravka Award’ and the ‘Master Award’ for special<br />
achievement in the film industry.<br />
08.07 - 28.09. Pablo Picasso Graphics Art buffs, see<br />
graphics by Pablo Picasso with his three representative<br />
series: Suite Vollard, La Tauromaquia and Suite 156. It will<br />
be borrowed from the German museum Kunst Mülheim an<br />
der Ruhr in der Alten Post and a Swiss private collection.<br />
Dubrovnik Art Gallery, (L-5) Frana Supila 23<br />
10.07 - 25.08. The 58th Dubrovnik Summer Festival By<br />
far the largest cultural event of the year with an international<br />
musical, theatre and dance festival. Renaissance venues such<br />
as the Lovrijenac Fortress and the Duke’s Palace will provide<br />
the ambience that captivates so many.<br />
Exhibition<br />
War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. 32 21 66<br />
May 01 - July 29 Bruce Connew : On the way to an<br />
ambush<br />
August 01 - October 31 Child Soldier Photographs by<br />
Alixandra Fazzina / Trolley - Uganda & Congo / Franco Pagetti /<br />
VII - Sierra Leone / Jan Grarup / Noor - Palestine / Noel Quidu<br />
/ Gamma - Liberia / Yannis Kontos / Polaris - Nepal<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Libertas Film Festival<br />
04 - 14.08. The 5th Small Films Festival and Summer<br />
School of Film Šipan 2008 Lights! Camera Action! The<br />
Summer School of Film on the island of Šipan gathers<br />
professional film directors, screen writers, editors and<br />
cameramen who, together with primary and high school<br />
students - make films. Professional workshops and a ten<br />
day film festival will also be held. Šipan Harbour<br />
03 - 14.09. The 8th Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival<br />
What a line-up? A chamber music festival set in the exquisite<br />
surroundings of the Duke’s Palace. Famous violinist<br />
Julian Rachlin will be joined by American baritone Thomas<br />
Hampson, Scandinavian pianist Leif Ove Andsnes, Hollywood<br />
actor Sir Roger Moore will attend whilst John Malkovich will<br />
recite a special project by the Spanish composer Alberto<br />
Iglesias. Duke’s palace<br />
Croos Media Festival <strong>In</strong> August, simply chill at the<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Festival called oOoze which is filled with<br />
concerts, performers and street art. It is the type of festival<br />
which invites you to relax and enjoy the Mediterranean way<br />
of life, whilst also participating in festival events. Lazareti,<br />
Hotel Belvedere<br />
Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) Throughout the peak<br />
season you can watch a series of various concerts which<br />
include: the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra, Maria Manzo-<br />
Kissinger (conductor) and Michael Kissinger (clarinet),<br />
Zvetlina Maldjanska (soprano), Boiko Zvetanov (tenor), Pavica<br />
Gvozdić (piano), Marija Pavlović (clarinet) and many others.<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
Gallery Sebastian, Ul. sv Dominika, tel. 32 14 90<br />
June 04 - 21: Tomislav Buntak - Hodočašća<br />
June 24 - July 12 Ana Opalić (Photography)<br />
July 15 - August 06 Ivica Propadalo<br />
July 15 - 24 Milica Bravačić<br />
July 24 - August 19 Lucija Pandžić (Ceramics)<br />
August 08 - 16 Josef Geršl<br />
August 19 - September 10 Josip Škerlj<br />
September 12 - 30 Tina Gverović
12 Where to stay<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms<br />
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
6 Animal friendly<br />
Cream of the crop<br />
Dubrovnik Palace F-3, Masarykov put 20, tel. 43<br />
00 00, fax 43 01 00, info@dubrovnikpalace.hr, www.<br />
dubrovnikpalace.hr. Hits the spot if you have contemporary<br />
tastes and take your surroundings seriously. A great pool and<br />
beach area, spa facilities and cool reception complete with<br />
arty waterfall and gallery. The soothing rooms are complete<br />
with Gharani Strok toiletries - this is Daddy Strok’s hotel,<br />
after all. Q308 rooms (22 singles €244, 249 doubles €382<br />
- 768, 24 Junior suite: €544, 7 Executive suite: €668, 2 De<br />
luxe suite: €698, 3 Ambassador suite: €1200, 1 Presidental<br />
suite: €3000). PTHARUFLEGBKDC<br />
hhhhh<br />
The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. 32 62 00,<br />
fax 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www.<br />
thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live<br />
palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked<br />
out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in<br />
the most hardened cynic. The staff knocked us off our feet<br />
with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 single<br />
€289 - 347, 16 doubles €435 - 671, 1 suite €1012 - 1126, 1<br />
Junior Suite €715 - 836). PTJAR6LEGBKW<br />
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Upmarket<br />
Bellevue J-4, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. 33 00 00, fax 33 01<br />
00, welcome@hotel-bellevue.hr, www.hotel-bellevue.hr.<br />
Renovated with more than 90 rooms that provide spectacular<br />
balcony views of the Adriatic, minimalist interior equipped<br />
with all the necessities. <strong>In</strong>dulge in local art works, a-la-carte<br />
restaurant Vapor, a private cinema, spa centre, indoor pool,<br />
a private beach and more. Summer specials available. Only<br />
minutes from the town centre. Q91 rooms (2 singles €487,<br />
79 doubles €499, 11 suites €927, 1 Presidential Suite €2200).<br />
PTHFLGBKDCW hhhhh<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 39, tel. 44 11<br />
00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com,<br />
www.valamar.com.<br />
A shining white Toblerone on the tip<br />
of the Babin kuk peninsula, this remarkable modern edifice<br />
has oceans of glass offering unimpeded views of the sea,<br />
the islands and the Blue Flag beach outside. All rooms have<br />
sea views, the superior rooms being particularly smart. Price<br />
for apartment is available upon request.<br />
Q181 rooms (181<br />
doubles €139 - 329). PTHARFLEGBKDC<br />
hhhh<br />
Excelsior M-5, Frana Supila 12, tel. 35 33 53/ 35 30<br />
00, fax 35 32 95, info@hotel-excelsior.hr, www.excelsior.hr.<br />
Completely renovated, this luxurious landmark has<br />
146 bedrooms and 18 suites with every amenity possible.<br />
Delightfully furnished with state of the art facilities. Set near<br />
the heart of the Old City with splendor terraced views,fine<br />
dining with a Dalmatian and international cuisine, an indoor<br />
pool,wellness and beauty centre, private beach entry and<br />
more. Q157 rooms (3 singles €405, 136 doubles €540,<br />
triples €785, 15 Junior Suite: €685, 2 Deluxe Suite: €2080,<br />
1 Presidential Suite: €3290). POTJHARFLG<br />
BKDC hhhhh<br />
Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. 44<br />
01 00, fax 44 02 00, info@importanneresort.com,<br />
www.importanneresort.com. Experience Dubrovnik’s<br />
first resort and you will definitely walk away with delight.<br />
Choose from three hotels Villa Elita (5 stars), Neptun (4<br />
stars), Ariston (5 stars) with Importanne suites that are<br />
nestled along the sea, wellness facilities, sports and recreation,<br />
private car park, personalised services and a buffet<br />
restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with<br />
a noteworthy selction of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk<br />
along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are<br />
ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Medieval<br />
City. Special offers are available online as well as state<br />
of the art facilties for corporate functions. Q237 rooms<br />
(209 doubles €98 - 216, 28 apartments €250 - 420).<br />
PTHAUIFLGBKDC hhhhh<br />
Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. 43 35 80, fax 43<br />
73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com.<br />
The brand new Uvala exemplifies clean<br />
modern design, a philosophy echoed by the wellness centre<br />
(offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and a restaurant offering<br />
a full macrobiotic menu. <strong>In</strong>door and outdoor pools, plus<br />
internet access in rooms and smallish conference facilities<br />
making this a viable business option. Q51 rooms (45<br />
doubles €160 - 272, 6 triples €220 - 272). PTHAI<br />
FLEGBKDC hhhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. 43 35 20, fax 43<br />
73 33, sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com; adriatic@<br />
hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good<br />
sized gym and clay tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two<br />
star hotel, and an additional host of activities (fancy sea<br />
kayaking?) make this a good option for sporty types. Decent,<br />
clean and friendly accommodation in leafy surroundings on<br />
the Lapad peninsula. Q158 rooms (11 singles €50 - 80,<br />
130 doubles €88 - 140, 17 triples €105 - 165). PAF<br />
LEGBK hh<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
Where to stay<br />
Summer 2008<br />
13
14<br />
Where to stay<br />
Aquarius G/H-3, Mata Vodopića 8, tel. 45 61 11, fax 45<br />
61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www.hotel-aquarius.<br />
net. Recently given a make-over, this three star hotel includes<br />
four apartments and a further twenty rooms that have been<br />
garlanded with all the necessities. Eat out on the restaurant<br />
terrace, relax in the bar and choose from the diverse local<br />
and international cuisine. It is only 350 meters from the<br />
beach and a mere 3km from the historical city. Q32 rooms<br />
(22 doubles €134 - 158, 4 triples €180 - 213, 6 suites €164<br />
- 188). PALBKW hhh<br />
Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. 44 61 00, fax 43 56 22,<br />
reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar.<br />
com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern theme, and is<br />
only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana beach, with a<br />
water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns and little’uns<br />
happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool with an ice<br />
cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles €89 - 287).<br />
PTHARULEGBKC hhh<br />
Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. 43 35 00, fax<br />
43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.com, www.<br />
hotelimaestral.com. A slightly older, smaller hotel close to<br />
the centre of Lapad affords an intimate atmosphere. Rooms<br />
overlook a rather lovely pool area, and there’s great outdoor<br />
seating for mealtimes. A wide range of free time activities<br />
laid on with a smile, and facilities for small meetings. Q63<br />
rooms (8 singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles €74 - 180, 4 triples<br />
€104 - 252). PTHALEBKC hhh<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Kompas G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 56, tel. 35<br />
20 00/ 35 21 14, fax 43 58 77, sales@hotel-kompas.<br />
hr, www.hotel-kompas.hr. This smallish hotel close to the<br />
centre of Lapad is delightfully appointed in a clean and tasteful<br />
style in keeping with its modern design. The indoor and<br />
outdoor seawater pools (weather permitting) are excellent,<br />
and guests have unlimited free use of the gym, sauna and<br />
Jacuzzis. Q115 rooms (7 singles €135, 108 doubles €230).<br />
PTHAIFLEGBKDCW hhh<br />
Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. 41 05<br />
00/ 41 05 03, fax 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.hr, www.<br />
croatia-vacation.com. Refurbished hotel with over 100<br />
rooms each with air-conditioning and elegant bath facilities.<br />
Choose one of 64 balcony rooms with breathtaking views over<br />
the Adriatic. Restaurant Taverna Nostromo will delight you with<br />
its rich menu. Only minutes from the medieval city by bus.<br />
Q104 rooms (8 singles €66 - 106, 92 doubles €52 - 72, 4<br />
triples €52 - 72). PHARIFLGBKW hhh<br />
Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. 32 22 44, fax 32<br />
12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com, www.hotelstarigrad.<br />
com. This little antique treasure is hidden in a street just<br />
off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are small but<br />
perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace is one of<br />
the highlights of a sunny day. Q8 rooms (singles 980Kn, 8<br />
doubles 700Kn). PJARGB hhh<br />
Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. 44 51 00, fax 43 56 22,<br />
reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar.<br />
com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or modernist delight?<br />
But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit is the bar in the<br />
middle of the pool where you can cool down from without<br />
and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and the famous<br />
Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208 doubles<br />
€120 - 288). PTHALEGBKC hhh<br />
Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18, tel. 44<br />
71 00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.<br />
com, www.valamar.com. 340 rooms and only 150m from<br />
the beach. All you need is on site, including restaurant services,<br />
pool facilities, entertainment programmes, car parking,<br />
washing facilities and more. 22km from the airport and 150m<br />
from the bus stop. Ideal for a family holiday. Q338 rooms<br />
(338 doubles €89 - 209). PTAEGBKC hhh<br />
Islands<br />
Šipan Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. 75 49 00, fax<br />
75 49 10, hotel-sipan@petral.hr, www.hotel-sipan.<br />
hr. This modest, medium sized hotel in the little port of<br />
Šipanska Luka is the last word in escapism. This fertile<br />
little island has little developed tourism, but has sunshine,<br />
clean water, a brace of good restaurants, excellent<br />
olive oil and tons and tons of peace and quiet. It also offers<br />
Royal Cruiser for rent. Q80 rooms (14 singles €85<br />
- 119, 57 doubles €61 - 85, 5 triples €61 - 85, 4 suites<br />
€157 - 226). PTHAREGBK hhh<br />
Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. 71<br />
10 78/ 72 64 80, fax 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.<br />
hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid<br />
villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance<br />
above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather<br />
dated inside, but it has a great terrace and old-fashioned<br />
coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view<br />
from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q22 rooms<br />
(2 singles €77 - 120, 13 doubles €110 - 160, 7 triples<br />
€149 - 216). ABK hhh<br />
Lafodia Obala Ivana Kuljevana 51, Lopud, tel. 75<br />
90 22, fax 75 90 12, hotel.lafodia@du.t-com.hr,<br />
www.lafodia.hr. Car free Lopud island’s only large<br />
hotel is on a peaceful peninsula amid lush greenery.<br />
There’s a beach and pools in front of the hotel, and a<br />
ten minute walk takes you to the famous sandy Šunj<br />
bay. Unimaginatively decorated, but decent and friendly.<br />
Q196 rooms (12 singles €60 - 90, 184 doubles €45 -<br />
66). PTAEGBK hhh<br />
Odisej Pomena bb, Mljet, tel. 36 21 11, fax 42<br />
43 83, info@hotelodisej.hr, www.hotelodisej.com.<br />
The only modern hotel on Mljet island - a quiet complex<br />
set in thick vegetation in the resort of Pomena, right in<br />
the National Park. Rooms are simple, apartments have<br />
air conditioning and Jacuzzis. The diving school lets<br />
you explore the pristine waters of the island. Q157<br />
rooms (12 singles €47 - 99, 139 doubles €58 - 148, 2<br />
apartments €189 - 338, 4 Family Room €136 - 290).<br />
PTHAIEGBK hhh<br />
Where to stay<br />
Summer 2008<br />
15
16<br />
Where to stay<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Vila Micika G/H-3, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. 43 73 32/<br />
43 73 23, fax 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr.<br />
Located in Lapad, amongst palm trees and a mere<br />
200m walk to the beach. This oasis has excellent rooms that<br />
cater from two to sixteen people. It also includes the Restaurant<br />
Yacht Club Orsan which is renowned for its fresh fish,<br />
seafood and home style meat dishes. Q7 rooms (5 doubles<br />
€46 - 76, 2 triples €69 - 114). PTLNW hhh<br />
Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. 43 35 55, fax 43 35 50,<br />
sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.<br />
com. The high spot of the Vis is the rather fine shingle beach<br />
with tables right by the water’s edge where you can indulge in<br />
sensory pleasures from the Lido restaurant and bar right into<br />
the evening. A mid-sized modern affair aimed at families, spick<br />
and span and rather friendly. Q152 rooms (9 singles €74 -<br />
108, 129 doubles €96 - 180, 6 triples €96 - 180, 8 Superior<br />
Rooms €128 - 180). PTALEBK hhh<br />
Hostel<br />
Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana<br />
Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. 42 32 41, fax 41 25 92,<br />
dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s<br />
youth hostel is sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean<br />
and cheerful and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal<br />
kitchen is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups,<br />
and you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q19 rooms<br />
(1 double 85 - 120Kn, 14 4-bedded dorm: 85 - 120Kn, 4<br />
6-bedded dorm: 85 - 120Kn). ABK<br />
Fresh Sheets C-2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. 091 799 20<br />
86, info@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh.com. One of<br />
Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget accommodation in the<br />
Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a friendly well-travelled<br />
canadian croatian couple. Funky, clean, character rooms<br />
dorms which include breakfast, free internet and discounts<br />
at their popular travellers’ bar makes this guest house a true<br />
jewel. Book in advance. Prices are per night. Q4 rooms (4<br />
apartments €20). AGW hh<br />
Private accommodation<br />
Apartments Laptalo L-5, Petra Krešimira IV 13, tel./<br />
fax 42 74 76, tel. 098 70 11 70, kristo.laptalo@du.tcom.hr,<br />
www.dubrovnikapartments-laptalo.com.hr. One<br />
HUGE bonus is garage parking very close to the city centre.<br />
Apart from that, the clean, comfortable rooms and the<br />
mammoth terrace with loungers overlooking the Old Town,<br />
the English and Italian speaking owner nurtures you like the<br />
delicate little flower you are. Q2 rooms (2 apartments €76<br />
- 110). PJLNB hhh<br />
Apartments Toni G-1, Ivana Zajca 5, tel. 091 529 47<br />
41/ 098 85 05 78, dubravka.tolja@du.t-com.hr; tonitolja@yahoo.com,<br />
www.apartmanitoni.com. If peaceful<br />
surroundings are important than these apartments definitely<br />
fit the bill. Only meters from the beach, several suites have<br />
been elegantly decorated with all the right modern multifunctional<br />
features. Luxury interior and views of Gruž Cove<br />
are an added bonus. Nearby are restaurants, a harbor and<br />
promenade. Only 10 minutes from the centre. Q5 rooms<br />
(1 apartment €150 - 350, 4 Studio Apartments €30 - 50).<br />
P6ILNBW<br />
Božo Kortizija K-5, Od Tabakarije 27, tel. 42 60 85/<br />
098 18 48 676;, bozo.kortizija@du.t-com.hr, www.accomodationkortizija.hr.<br />
A stone cottage in a quiet little huddle<br />
of houses around the harbour near the Pile gate. Spotlessly<br />
clean, modern rooms and an apartment to rent. The Kortizija<br />
family are the salt of the earth, and the location couldn’t be<br />
better. Simply superb. Q4 rooms (3 doubles €45 - 55, 1<br />
apartment €80 - 100). P hhh<br />
Where to stay<br />
Summer 2008<br />
17
18<br />
Where to stay<br />
Boris Vlahušić L-5, Koločepska 1, tel. 42 64 06/<br />
098 35 89 05, boris.vlahusic@du.t-com.hr. This stone<br />
house is set amidst lush vegetation a little way uphill from<br />
the Banje beach. It’s clean and simple, if perhaps a little<br />
old-fashioned. The owners are lovely, and Konoba Pjatanca<br />
downhill can supply meals for you to enjoy on the terrace.<br />
Q3 rooms (1 apartment €70 - 110, 2 Studio Apartment<br />
€55 - 80). P hhh<br />
Out of town<br />
Croatia Frankopanska 10, Cavtat, tel. 47 55 55, fax<br />
47 82 13, info@hoteli-croatia.hr, www.hoteli-croatia.<br />
hr. A short way east out of Cavtat town, recently renovated<br />
Hotel Croatia offers modern, high standard accommodation.<br />
With a Blue Flag beach, pools, wellness facilities, a well<br />
regarded taverna, a nightclub and the lively little town of<br />
Cavtat nearby, you won’t run short of fun and frolics. Q487<br />
rooms (480 doubles €95 - 128, 3 suites €345 - 483, 2<br />
Junior suites €312 - 438, 2 Presidental siutes €487 - 1026).<br />
PHAFLEGBKDCW hhhhh<br />
Ostrea Mali Ston b.b., tel. 75 45 55, fax 75 45 75,<br />
ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. This small hotel is<br />
well placed for sampling the delights of the Pelješac peninsula,<br />
including the renowned seafood from the Mali Ston bay - it’s<br />
run by the family who own the Kapetanova kuća restaurant.<br />
Luxurious, traditional style accommodation plus a fleet of cars<br />
at your disposal. Q14 rooms (13 doubles 890 - 990Kn, 1<br />
Presidental suite 1200Kn). PALBKW hhh<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
Supetar Obala Ante Starčevića 27, Cavtat, tel. 47 98<br />
33, fax 47 98 58, hotel.supetar@hoteli-croatia.hr, www.<br />
hoteli-croatia.hr. This small hotel in a stone building in the<br />
heart of lovely Cavtat has a family-run atmosphere and is ideal<br />
for sightseeing, swimming and enjoying nightlife. Rooms are<br />
on the small side but the hotel is fully air conditioned and has a<br />
lovely breakfast terrace with cascades of bougainvillea. Q28<br />
rooms (28 doubles €46 - 62). PJAGBK hhh<br />
Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1, Mali Ston, tel. 75 49 99/<br />
098 34 42 33, fax 75 46 42, vila-koruna@du.htnet.hr,<br />
www.vila-koruna.hr. Recently redecorated into a top quality<br />
restaurant and vila complex. Six rooms and two suites have<br />
been furnished with state of the art features. The restaurant<br />
is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams<br />
and sensual wines. The surroundings are lush and neatly<br />
secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail. Q8 rooms<br />
(5 doubles €90, 3 triples €112). PTJHA6EBK<br />
hhhh<br />
Plat Hotels and Villas Plat bb, Mlini, tel. 48 90 00,<br />
fax 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat.hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr.<br />
Located 12km south of Dubrovnik and walking distance to<br />
the beach.New apartments are available for 2 to 3 people<br />
with your own kitchen and bath facilities. Car park included.<br />
Don’t miss the in-house Taverna Plat a-la-carte restaurant<br />
which cooks up delicious traditional gourmet dishes. Q107<br />
rooms (107 apartments €61 - 230). AFLGKBC<br />
hhh<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino M Nearest station<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet 6 Animal friendly<br />
Croatian<br />
Dubravka B-2, Brsalje 1, tel. 31 19 75, fax 31 19 58,<br />
nautika@du.t-com.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun<br />
rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets<br />
and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty,<br />
shady plaza Bršalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the<br />
same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and<br />
has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar<br />
fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PTAUB<br />
Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. 35 81 08/ 091 660<br />
00 05; 091 358 18 88, fax 35 81 10, info@karaka.info,<br />
www.karaka.info. End a perfect summer’s day with a meal<br />
at sundown on a replica 16th century merchant ship just<br />
as they were made right here in Dubrovnik. It’s all in wood,<br />
rather luxurious, and the menu is just great - don’t miss<br />
local cured ham (pršut) and cheese. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00.<br />
(60-120kn). AGB<br />
Maestoso L-4, Hvarska bb, tel. 42 09 86/ 098 24 31<br />
71, fax 45 27 77, www.restaurantmaestoso.hr. Even<br />
though Maestoso sits plum just above the Ploče gate there<br />
are no pretensions here. They do what Dalmatian restaurants<br />
have done well for years, with a workmanlike approach to food<br />
and service that gives you a good value, local-style and highly<br />
enjoyable meal. Solid. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGB<br />
Mimoza K-5, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. 41 11 57/<br />
31 19 09, fax 31 19 08, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr,<br />
www.esculap-teo.hr. <strong>In</strong> a courtyard across from the Hilton<br />
Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is<br />
big enough to handle your tour group and several others<br />
simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining<br />
room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbor, is a<br />
pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta<br />
and vegetarian dishes. A Dalmatian music group performs<br />
Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Delivery is available.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80-120kn). PTAEGB<br />
Orhan K-5, Od Tabakarije 1, tel./fax 41 41 83, dominik.<br />
kuzman@du.htnet.hr, www.restaurant-orhan.com.<br />
Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something<br />
out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses<br />
beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great<br />
spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable<br />
prices. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80-400kn). PJAGB<br />
Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38,<br />
Hotel Petka, tel. 41 05 24/ 41 05 25, info@petka.<br />
hr, www.croatia-vacation.com. Don’t be put off by the<br />
unprepossessing look of the hotel from the outside - the<br />
food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s<br />
citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a<br />
casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of<br />
modern refinement. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (100-300kn).<br />
PAGB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
restaurants<br />
Summer 2008<br />
19
20<br />
restaurants<br />
Teatar C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. 32 39 77. Should you<br />
be in luck, you may find yourself seated in a classic terrace;<br />
otherwise this sidewalk restaurant is noted for its intimate<br />
setting. The menu oozes with seafood, steaks and pasta, but<br />
the grilled fish dishes prepared in nonchalant Dalmatian style<br />
are a must. Staff that knows more than just the local lingo will<br />
greet and treat you exceptionally well. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.<br />
(50-150kn). AGB<br />
Desserts<br />
Dolce vita C-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. 32 16 66.<br />
This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice<br />
cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 24:00. PNGB<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. 32 32 21/ 098<br />
67 41 41, kucaeda@du.t-com.hr. You guessed it, the Old<br />
Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good<br />
grilled meats including čevapi - shish kebab. Try one of the<br />
“pite” pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love<br />
baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. AB<br />
Konoba<br />
Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. 32 47 50,<br />
www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring<br />
style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple<br />
fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the<br />
black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PAB<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Pjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. 42 09 49. Head towards<br />
Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this<br />
simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you<br />
might just get something a little out of the ordinary - real<br />
home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AGB<br />
Rozarij D-2, Prijeko 2, tel. 32 12 57. On the extreme<br />
east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from<br />
its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle<br />
cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PNB<br />
Light bites<br />
Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. 32 10 96/ 098<br />
909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble<br />
some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese<br />
and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly<br />
made with home baked bread. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />
PNGBS<br />
Express C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. 32 39 94. A swift,<br />
square meal on a budget right in the heart of the Old Town.<br />
Fill up on soups, pasta dishes, cooked meals and a salad<br />
bar and get change from five Euro. A lifesaver! QOpen<br />
10:00 - 22:00. PAB<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Atlas club Nautica A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. 44 25 26, fax 44<br />
25 25, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The<br />
place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking<br />
the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your<br />
smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative<br />
cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but<br />
definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. PJAGB<br />
Dubrovački kantun C-2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. 33 19<br />
11/ 32 11 23, antonela.di.leo@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
kantun.bravehost.com. Centrally located with a homely<br />
atmosphere best describes this restaurant. Its menu is<br />
packed with traditional dishes that compliment both meaty<br />
lovers and vegetarians. An ‘a la nouvelle cuisine’ is charmed<br />
with some of the finest drops of Dalmatian wine on offer.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PNG<br />
Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila<br />
bb, tel. 41 22 20, info@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.<br />
ew-dubrovnik.com. <strong>In</strong> the beach complex by the Ploče<br />
gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East<br />
design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches<br />
and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a<br />
strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes.<br />
A classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (60-125kn)<br />
PJALGB<br />
Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. 32 21 76, fax 32 21 77,<br />
kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The<br />
terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot<br />
to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or<br />
salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
PJAEGBS<br />
Sesame K-5, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. 41 29 10, fax 42<br />
10 54, misko.ercegovic@du.htnet.hr, www.sesame.hr.<br />
An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music<br />
and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes<br />
orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill<br />
sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and<br />
pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (70-150kn). AGB<br />
restaurants<br />
Taverna Maslina F-3, Masarykov put 20, Dubrovnik<br />
Palace Hotel, tel. 43 00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace.<br />
hr. The coolest design hotel in Dubrovnik has an elegant<br />
restaurant with sea views and stylish poolside seating.<br />
The cuisine is excellent: Dalmatian specialities with a<br />
contemporary twist, and light Mediterranean tastebudtinglers.<br />
Grilled chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime<br />
treat. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (120-800kn). PALEB<br />
Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. 098 944 93 17/ 098<br />
944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com, www.<br />
wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back<br />
to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty<br />
meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese,<br />
octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine<br />
are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality<br />
service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from<br />
Stradun. Q Open daily from 11:30 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 23:30.<br />
(70-290kn). PAGB<br />
Out of town<br />
Adio Mare Ulica Marca Pola 1, Korčula town, tel. 71 12<br />
53/ 098 24 38 45, fax 71 16 83. Whether it’s the location<br />
next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled<br />
food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has<br />
been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the<br />
queue waiting for a table! Open 17:30 ‘til the guests go home.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50-150kn). PNGB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2008<br />
21
22<br />
restaurants<br />
Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. 89 10 31. The<br />
high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the<br />
terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over<br />
the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for<br />
a romantic meal at sundown.it’s worth the trip to this little<br />
village just north of Dubrovnik. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40-540kn). ANBS<br />
Bota Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. 75 44 82/ 091 175<br />
44 79, fax 75 40 01, botamaliston@inet.hr, www.botasare.hr.<br />
Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but<br />
the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present<br />
stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If<br />
you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place<br />
to sample numerous dishes containing the cooked little<br />
critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70-400kn).<br />
PALBX<br />
Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. 47 85 66, fax 47<br />
85 54, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A<br />
strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent<br />
steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps<br />
in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re<br />
hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great<br />
terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 24:00. (120-150kn). PAEGB<br />
Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. 75 42 64/<br />
75 45 55, fax 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.<br />
ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith,<br />
and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime<br />
not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front<br />
of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp<br />
pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and<br />
by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(60-100kn). PALB<br />
Konavoski dvori Ljuta, Konavle, tel. 79 10 39/ 44 25<br />
73, fax 79 14 53, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculapteo.hr.<br />
Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the<br />
Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and<br />
feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout)<br />
served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may<br />
be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (80-100kn). ALGB<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. 47<br />
96 07, fax 47 15 53. Set in the lush rural region of Konavle,<br />
the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home<br />
grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron<br />
bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden<br />
salad and home made apple strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.<br />
(45-90kn). ALBX<br />
Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice bb, Mlini,<br />
tel. 48 72 57/ 098 69 96 13, fax 48 64 71, vivado@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying<br />
the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into<br />
Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables<br />
set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and<br />
local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a<br />
supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (68-98kn).<br />
ALB<br />
Leut Trumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. 47 84 77/ 098 24<br />
42 25, fax 47 90 50, ivan.bobic@du.htnet.hr, www.<br />
kroatien-ferien.com. One of the best places to try quality<br />
local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront<br />
in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned<br />
among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it<br />
comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(100-1000kn). PAGB<br />
Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. 89 12<br />
67, fax 89 10 97, restaurant@gverovic-orsan.hr, www.<br />
gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach<br />
and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good<br />
food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous<br />
risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from “motar”,<br />
a grass that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
24:00. ALB<br />
Pjat Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. 75 83 10/ 75<br />
49 00, fax 75 49 10, hotel-sipan@petral.hr, www.<br />
hotel-sipan.hr. Ignore the bit on the website which calls the<br />
atmosphere “fantastically mundane” in an extraordinary mix<br />
of modesty and hyperbole, we think it’s great! A beautiful old<br />
palace on this idyllically quiet harbour is the stylish venue<br />
for Mediterranean fusion delights QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(50-150kn). PAB<br />
Triton Zaklopatica bb, Lastovo, tel./fax 80 11 61, tel.<br />
098 177 80 65, konoba-triton@du.t-com.hr, www.triton.<br />
hr. A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right<br />
outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has<br />
a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio,<br />
marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made<br />
Mediterranean herb rakija - it’s all the stuff of dreams! QOpen<br />
17:00 - 24:00. (50-200kn). AB<br />
Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. 71 23 34/ 091 512<br />
87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com.hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt<br />
to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t<br />
miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch,<br />
rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food<br />
is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!<br />
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. AB<br />
Pizza<br />
Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. 32 31<br />
60/ 098 30 19 88. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town,<br />
serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy! QOpen 08:00<br />
- 24:30. PNBS<br />
Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. 32 34 30. Serves up<br />
a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit<br />
iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for<br />
čevapi (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub<br />
with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. PJABS<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
restaurants<br />
Seafood<br />
Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. 32 32 34, fax 32 32 35, sales@<br />
esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little<br />
brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful<br />
location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but<br />
meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience<br />
and friendly service make this a strong contender for top<br />
dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGB<br />
YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. 43 59 33, fax 43 73<br />
23, restoran-orsan@du.t-com.hr, www.orsan.cjb.net.<br />
The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation<br />
as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality<br />
food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood.<br />
Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted<br />
marine traffic in the Gruž harbout. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />
PALB<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. 092 218 86 12/ 098 186 74<br />
40, info@nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.<br />
com. Jam packed amongst a street filled with restaurants is<br />
this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian<br />
food from all over the world including Mexican, <strong>In</strong>dian and<br />
Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, fondue, and spring-rolls.<br />
The smoothie bar close by is an affiliation with choices of soy,<br />
rice and oat milk for that final desert.. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 15:00 - 24:00. ABS<br />
Summer 2008<br />
23
24<br />
cafÉs<br />
<strong>In</strong> Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not<br />
worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This<br />
process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders<br />
wondering who the hell does any work around here. So<br />
the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good.<br />
The standard espresso and cappuccino are available<br />
everywhere, while a latte here is called a “bijela kava”<br />
(white coffee).<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3, tel. 098 85 49 54. Among the<br />
many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this<br />
is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music.<br />
It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. P<br />
Biker’s Cafe L-5, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. 091 764<br />
69 19, info@bikers-caffe.com, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.<br />
hr, www.bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourhood<br />
just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up<br />
with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will<br />
try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 03:00. PNGB<br />
Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 11 48, fax 32 23 73,<br />
info@caffefestival.com. This coffee house right on Stradun<br />
is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate<br />
to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up<br />
a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location<br />
couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. PAB<br />
GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. 32 12 05 / press<br />
2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. A kavana is a<br />
Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing<br />
about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location,<br />
is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a<br />
selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni<br />
and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJAB<br />
Laura L-5, Frana Supila 1, tel. 098 42 82 78, lmrkic@<br />
acmt.hr. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over<br />
the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is<br />
phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and<br />
local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost.<br />
Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 03:00. PB<br />
Talir C-2, Antuninska 5. A classy spot to sup your coffee<br />
amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not<br />
enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings,<br />
you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. PB<br />
We’ve written this guide for high season, which features a<br />
city teeming with tourists and Croatian party people ready<br />
to see in the dawn. Dubrovnik is more geared to highbrow<br />
culture than to nightlife, but there is enough going on in<br />
high season to keep night owls happy. Croatians like to<br />
put their best face forward when they hit town, so don’t<br />
be surprised if your cargo pants make you feel like you’ve<br />
wandered in from the homeless shelter.<br />
Bars<br />
Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. 32 10 65 / press 1/<br />
098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.<br />
hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden<br />
galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden<br />
tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight),<br />
have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot<br />
of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or combination.<br />
Spectacular. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PAEB<br />
Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s<br />
tower, tel. 32 40 53/ 098 36 19 34. What a place to<br />
sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the<br />
Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks<br />
only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and<br />
hedonistic mood make up for everything. QOpen 08:30 -<br />
03:00. B<br />
Capitano A-1, Između vrta 2, tel. 098 36 64 70. This<br />
bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it<br />
transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans<br />
which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance,<br />
occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed<br />
to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PNGB<br />
Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel. 32 34 89. On a<br />
fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great<br />
outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad<br />
either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails<br />
are well priced. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PB<br />
None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. 098 915 99 09/<br />
091 466 67 86. A perfect spot for people-watching on<br />
comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you<br />
can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place<br />
does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The<br />
toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
02:00. PNB<br />
Porto Srebreno 10, Mlini, tel. 48 70 78. It’s a hop out<br />
of town in the village of Srebreno (you can get there on the<br />
bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern space which<br />
serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar with dancing<br />
by night has proved to be very popular with local trendsters<br />
at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.<br />
PGB<br />
nightLife<br />
Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana 5,<br />
tel. 32 34 76. It’s hard to beat a warm evening spent here<br />
toe-tapping to mellow jazz (live acts too), with your supersize<br />
view onto the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so<br />
we’ll forgive the significantly above-average prices. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 02:00. NB<br />
Boats<br />
Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. 35 81 08/ 091 660<br />
00 05; 091 358 18 88, fax 35 81 10, info@karaka.<br />
info, www.karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this<br />
beautiful replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of<br />
the 16th century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s<br />
not carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. QOpen<br />
20:00 - 01:00. AG<br />
Casinos<br />
Golden Sun Casino G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel<br />
Rixos Libertas), tel. 63 85 88, fax 63 85 81, marketing@<br />
major.hr, www.major.hr. A super fancy casino in the<br />
Rixos Libertas Hotel. Q Open 24h (bar and slot machines),<br />
18:00-06:00 (gambling tables). EK<br />
Clubs<br />
Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel./fax 31 28 70, fuego.du@<br />
yahoo.com. A proper little club on Pile. As the name<br />
suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other<br />
nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on<br />
hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de<br />
vivre, who really cares? QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNGB<br />
Lazareti L-5, Frana Supila 8, tel./fax 32 46 33, arl@<br />
du.htnet.hr, www.arl.hr. A superb stone spaces in the<br />
former quarantine house is given over to happenings of<br />
an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning<br />
electronica. <strong>In</strong>ternational multimedia festival includes<br />
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.<br />
Living Room J-4, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. 46 86 52/<br />
091 567 26 32, www.livingroom.com.hr. A café/bar<br />
that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual<br />
chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and<br />
well known for its fine coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sun. PNGBW<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
Summer 2008<br />
25
26<br />
nightLife<br />
Orlandinjo Club F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel<br />
Dubrovnik Palace), tel. 43 00 00, info@dubrovnikpalace.<br />
hr, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The Palace is one of the<br />
grooviest corners of Dubrovnik, practically exploding with<br />
contemporariness, and urbanites will find the nightclub is<br />
no exception. Live jazz acts go down nicely with excellent<br />
wines and cocktails, but be aware you do pay for your<br />
fancy surroundings! QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Sun. PA<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Lounge bars<br />
Gils Cuisine and Pop lounge bar D-2, Sv. Dominika 2,<br />
tel. 32 22 22, fax 32 22 20, info@gilsdubrovnik.com,<br />
www.gils-dubrovnik.com. A beautifully designed complex<br />
of restaurant, bar and nightclub, which you can probably<br />
only afford to frequent if you can afford if the currency your<br />
salary is paid in is doing particularly well at the moment and<br />
resides in an equally beautifully designed wallet. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 01:00. PAB<br />
Pubs<br />
Irish Pub Karaka C-2, Između polača 5, tel. 32 30 70/<br />
098 50 03 22, www.irishpub-karaka.t-com.hr. A spit and<br />
sawdust style woodsy pub full of persons of Gaelic descent<br />
and loud rock music! Crowded, sweaty, drunken, not very<br />
Croatian - but fun. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PENGB<br />
Katie O’Connell’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. 32<br />
15 75/ 091 220 20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Brand new<br />
in 2006 but managing to look centuries old, this delightful<br />
stone cellar in one of the streets leading north of Stradun is<br />
sure to be a decent spot to eat and drink this year. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 02:00. PAEB<br />
King Richard’s Pub I-4, Josipa Kosora 40, tel. 33<br />
37 40/ 33 37 33, viam1@du.t-com.hr. Somewhat<br />
incongruous - a classy, “traditional” style pub in a rather new<br />
residential building, but nice nonetheless, and has become<br />
a favoured night spot on Lapad. Upstairs is for drinking and<br />
scoffing; downstairs is for boogieing and karaoke. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 04:00. PAEB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Essential Dubrovnik<br />
Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)<br />
D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. 32 14 23, fax 32 22 05. The<br />
Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th<br />
century, and with the building of their monastery a century<br />
later, they became an important part of the city’s defences<br />
- the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town,<br />
vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone<br />
steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades<br />
have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout<br />
ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position,<br />
from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel<br />
of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick<br />
carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery<br />
church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof<br />
and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery,<br />
like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection<br />
of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great<br />
earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been<br />
invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old<br />
Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano<br />
and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and<br />
19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00 and 19:00. Entry 20kn. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3.<br />
This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing<br />
in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman<br />
and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary<br />
Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was<br />
erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home<br />
city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers.<br />
The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and<br />
homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.<br />
Lokrum Island L/M-6. You don’t have to travel far to<br />
experience the tranquillity of island life: Lokrum island is just<br />
a short hop away by boat (departs 09:00, 10:00 and every<br />
30min till 20:00. 10min trip, 40kn return). It’s one of the<br />
best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the<br />
peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s<br />
a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s<br />
a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests<br />
have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun<br />
by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in<br />
the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being<br />
spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke<br />
Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and<br />
formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in<br />
1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are<br />
topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from<br />
which you have great views.<br />
Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i<br />
mala Onforijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska<br />
Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular<br />
sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile<br />
Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central<br />
dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps<br />
around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for<br />
tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct<br />
that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built<br />
from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the<br />
first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.<br />
Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with<br />
a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake<br />
and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little<br />
masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near<br />
the tower at the other end of Stradun.<br />
What to see<br />
Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom.<br />
<strong>In</strong> front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a<br />
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and<br />
legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility.<br />
The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag<br />
of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic.<br />
Today you’ll see the white “Libertas” flag symbolising the<br />
city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once<br />
the both the marketplace and to some extent still is the<br />
political “heart” of the city: it was the place where citizens<br />
were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness<br />
punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the<br />
standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading<br />
fabric – a Ragusan cubit or “lakat” (elbow) – you can see<br />
the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of<br />
the sculpture<br />
Stradun, Placa B-2/D-2. When talking about finding<br />
your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to<br />
“Stradun”, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the<br />
unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two<br />
main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and<br />
Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian “strada”,<br />
meaning “street”. With its shining limestone flags and the<br />
uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the<br />
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What to see<br />
best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump<br />
into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress<br />
up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks<br />
the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the<br />
parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on<br />
the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek<br />
for “rock”, since it was originally an island. From the name<br />
Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus<br />
was probably inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th<br />
century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman<br />
refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs<br />
settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this<br />
settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak<br />
tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus<br />
creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began<br />
to build the city walls.<br />
St Blaise<br />
How close St Blaise is to the people of Dubrovnik is<br />
shown by the number of times he appears in reliefs and<br />
sculptures in the city, and by the celebrations on his<br />
feast day, February 3, when a grand procession through<br />
town takes place, followed by great merriment. It is<br />
thought he was adopted as the city’s saint protector in<br />
971 after appearing in a vision warning of an attack by<br />
the Venetians. St Blaise came from Armenia, he was a<br />
healer, and legend has it that sick animals came to him<br />
but would never disturb his prayers. He was persecuted<br />
as a Christian, and in prison still practised medicine,<br />
saving a child from choking on a fishbone. That’s why<br />
he is the patron saint of ailments of the throat, and on<br />
his feast day peoples’ throats are still blessed with two<br />
entwined candles. He was thrown in a lake, and stood on<br />
the water waiting for his persecutors to come out to him<br />
– they drowned. When he came back to dry land, his flesh<br />
was torn with wool combs and he was beheaded.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3, Poljana Marina<br />
Držića, tel. 32 34 59 Treasury/ 32 34 96, fax 32 34 96.<br />
The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies<br />
the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure<br />
Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way<br />
you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter<br />
of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the<br />
Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects<br />
Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of<br />
an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed<br />
in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another<br />
earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in<br />
fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th<br />
or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous<br />
for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St<br />
Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and<br />
foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the<br />
11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption<br />
by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass:<br />
07:30 and 18:00, Sun 07:30, 18:00 and 20:00. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30.<br />
The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)<br />
D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that<br />
crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of<br />
two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up<br />
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two<br />
older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green<br />
colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their<br />
roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – “the<br />
green ones” – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents<br />
of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original<br />
part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was<br />
destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. It weighs two tonnes and was<br />
cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting<br />
bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist<br />
of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centrepoint<br />
is rather lovely in its simplicity.<br />
The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica<br />
i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South<br />
of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a<br />
remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal,<br />
with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here,<br />
galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a<br />
place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating<br />
throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating<br />
overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers<br />
of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The<br />
buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine<br />
sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians<br />
gathered there on a warm evening.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2, D/E-3.<br />
Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is<br />
evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian<br />
tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security<br />
offered by the island which lay where the southern half of<br />
the Old Town now stands, and the natural lie of the land with<br />
Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on<br />
the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman<br />
Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying<br />
the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties<br />
with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to<br />
establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in<br />
rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and<br />
a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew<br />
wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice.<br />
During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant<br />
navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly<br />
important industry, and the Dubrovnik “Karaka”, a beautiful<br />
galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it<br />
was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica<br />
in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at<br />
Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for<br />
embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the<br />
local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.<br />
Did you know? The English word “argosy”, meaning a fleet<br />
of ships, is derived from the name Ragusa.<br />
The City Walls, Bastions and Gates Pile & Ploče<br />
(Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata<br />
od Ploča). Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city<br />
walls are among the<br />
best preserved and<br />
most attractive on<br />
this planet, and a<br />
walk along them is<br />
an absolute must.<br />
The defences were<br />
built between the<br />
8th and the 16th<br />
century. The fact<br />
that on the land<br />
s i d e t h e y a r e<br />
almost 6m thick<br />
in places shows<br />
their primary purpose as defence against attack from the<br />
mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example,<br />
lay just a few kilometres inland. The walls were strengthened<br />
by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached -<br />
the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies<br />
were invited in on condition that they would respect its<br />
independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the East<br />
and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town,<br />
provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for<br />
concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, and has a<br />
cocktail bar, pizzeria and nightclub inside. Lovrijenac is one of<br />
the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional<br />
performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. <strong>Your</strong><br />
ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and its<br />
well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and<br />
is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best<br />
views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just<br />
north of the Pile gate, with its stylised battlements, is one<br />
of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the<br />
Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses,<br />
each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and<br />
Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you<br />
now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in<br />
drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches<br />
and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St<br />
Blaise, protector of the city.<br />
What to see<br />
The Franciscan Monastery of the Brothers Minor<br />
and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan<br />
i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. 32<br />
14 10, fax 32 10 29. The Romanesque cloister of the<br />
Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated<br />
with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate<br />
pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The<br />
monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest<br />
in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery<br />
houses a museum where you can see original items from the<br />
pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula,<br />
manuscripts, and a large collection of musical notations and<br />
a a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little<br />
Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the pieta, and,<br />
on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to<br />
stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Entry:<br />
25kn per adult, 12kn per child. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun<br />
07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
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What to see<br />
The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3,<br />
Luža 3, tel. 32 34 62, fax 32 33 10. Named after the<br />
saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most<br />
beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its<br />
stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at<br />
night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot<br />
since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was<br />
built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli,<br />
who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing<br />
above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale<br />
model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are<br />
the setting for some of the most important events of the life<br />
of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of<br />
the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include<br />
a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision<br />
contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can<br />
be arranged by appointment.<br />
The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates<br />
is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the<br />
courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine<br />
houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings<br />
were usually destroyed when the need for them passed,<br />
Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe.<br />
The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’<br />
workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the<br />
venue for concerts and DJ parties.<br />
The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom<br />
1, tel. 32 14 37. One of the loveliest buildings in the city<br />
and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic<br />
elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one<br />
month confining him to these quarters which he could only<br />
leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building<br />
changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder<br />
stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to<br />
the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and<br />
Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations<br />
were added in baroque style in the 17th century following<br />
the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio<br />
della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in<br />
gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly<br />
romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade<br />
with choir style decorative stone benches. <strong>In</strong>side, a beautiful<br />
courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace<br />
is now a museum where you can view the richly appointed<br />
offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom<br />
and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects<br />
of the period are all on display.<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Mass in English<br />
Mass is held in English every day at 12:00 at the Jesuit<br />
Church of St Ignatius C-4, Poljana R. Boškovića 6,<br />
tel. 32 35 00.<br />
Churches<br />
Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help<br />
over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you.<br />
That’s why they engaged in building so many churches.<br />
Here are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.<br />
Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of<br />
Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)<br />
B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. 32 14 67. To find this pink<br />
little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like<br />
someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was<br />
probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in<br />
the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent<br />
here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains<br />
household objects they used in order to support their order<br />
(e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks,<br />
including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one<br />
time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was<br />
especially venerated at Christmas time. Open 10:00 - 12:00<br />
and 16:00-18:00 and upon request or prior announcement.<br />
Entry 10kn, children 5 kn.<br />
Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa<br />
bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from<br />
the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette<br />
window on the front. It was built between 1520 and 1520 by<br />
grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake<br />
– it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped<br />
with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for<br />
concerts and recitals.<br />
Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i<br />
bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the<br />
Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed<br />
part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary<br />
church – nowadays used as an occasional gallery space.<br />
The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist<br />
and baroque styles.<br />
Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons<br />
(Pravoslavna crkva i muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,<br />
tel. 32 32 83, fax 32 38 29. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church<br />
was built from 1865-1877, and stands behind impressive<br />
wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly<br />
Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive<br />
collection should head for the museum on the second floor<br />
of the building next door.<br />
St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Ruđera<br />
Boškovića 6, tel. 32 35 00, fax 32 46 50. Part of a fine<br />
complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge<br />
of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St<br />
Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase<br />
which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The<br />
church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect<br />
Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period<br />
was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of<br />
the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of<br />
the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer<br />
Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of<br />
the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this<br />
is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts<br />
of the city. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.<br />
St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)<br />
C-3, Strossmayerova. The graceful building which now<br />
houses the acclaimed Music School, in one of the oldest<br />
parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St<br />
Katherine.<br />
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2,<br />
Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was<br />
originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for<br />
early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage<br />
was added in 1607. <strong>In</strong>side, you can see stone ornaments<br />
in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called<br />
“pleter”, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine<br />
painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.<br />
St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)<br />
D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by<br />
the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint<br />
protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of<br />
the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone<br />
steps and balustrade.<br />
Museums & Galleries<br />
Tickets<br />
Groups of 4 can get discount tickets for four museums:<br />
the Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Marin Držić<br />
House and Ethnographic Museum for 50kn adults,<br />
25kn children.<br />
Art Gallery Dubrovnik (Umjetnička galerija<br />
Dubrovnik) L-5, Frana Supila 23, tel. 42 65 90, fax<br />
43 21 14, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.<br />
dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This<br />
1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place<br />
to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern painting and<br />
sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists<br />
since the beginning of the 20th century. Entry for Art Gallery<br />
Dubrovnik and The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery - 30kn.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej<br />
Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. 32 30 13, fax 32 20 97.<br />
“Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living<br />
rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing<br />
imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a<br />
fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the<br />
economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik.<br />
The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of<br />
the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 16:00.<br />
What to see<br />
Spooky legends<br />
Lokrum is connected with several legends. The least<br />
scary of them is about Richard the Lionheart, who was<br />
caught in a violent storm on his return from the Crusades,<br />
and was so grateful to find shelter on the island that he<br />
pledged 100,000 ducats for the building of a church on<br />
the spot, but was persuaded by the Dubrovnik nobles to<br />
allow it to be built in the city instead. And thence came,<br />
the story goes, the money for building the Dubrovnik<br />
cathedral. More creepy is the curse of the Benedictine<br />
monks, who were so furious at being cast off the island<br />
by the occupying French in the early 19th century that<br />
they cursed any person who would look upon Lokrum as<br />
his own property. And indeed, every owner since then did<br />
meet a violent death, including Emperor Maximilian, who<br />
was executed by firing squad by Mexican republicans.<br />
Gallery Otok, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL) L-5, Frana<br />
Supila 8, tel. 32 46 33/ 32 37 66, arl@du.htnet.hr,<br />
www.arl.hr. A gallery in the Dubrovnik lazaret - the former<br />
quarantine houses - which now houses an artists’ community,<br />
including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art<br />
of an excellent standard. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sun.<br />
Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-3/4, St.<br />
John’s fortress(Tvrđava Sv. Ivana), tel. 32 39 04.<br />
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding to the growth<br />
of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most<br />
important museums. The display of models of the fine<br />
galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairytales -<br />
they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for<br />
building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour<br />
today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the<br />
massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour. Entry 35kn<br />
adults, 15kn children. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene<br />
povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. 32 48<br />
56, fax 32 20 96. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering<br />
documentation on contemporary history since World War Two,<br />
including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can<br />
see all their exhibitions in Knežev Dvor. The museum doesn’t<br />
have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.<br />
The Aquarium (Akvarij) E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12,<br />
tel. 32 39 78, fax 32 38 72. Housed in the magnificent St<br />
John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance<br />
to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to<br />
eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less<br />
than impressed. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
The Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)<br />
D-4, Braće Andrijića 7, tel. 32 40 41, arheoloski.muzej@<br />
du.htnet.hr. The Archaeological museum currently does not<br />
have a permanent residence, and some of its collections are<br />
still under preparation, but you can see objects dating back to<br />
prehistoric times excavated from the Old Town itself, including<br />
fragments of early Romanesque churches featuring the<br />
attractive plaitwork typical for Dalmatia. A prehistoric ceramic<br />
pot and female bust were found on the Pelješac peninsula.<br />
There is possibility that museum has been relocated. The<br />
museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional<br />
exhibitions.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2008<br />
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32<br />
What to see<br />
The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)<br />
B-3, Široka 7, tel. 32 32 42/ 32 32 96. This picturesque<br />
gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born.<br />
Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian<br />
literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a<br />
wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of<br />
letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in<br />
overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it<br />
was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical<br />
plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European<br />
renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed<br />
into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies<br />
are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.<br />
The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery (Galerija<br />
Dulčić Masle Pultika) D-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1,<br />
tel. 32 31 72, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.<br />
dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine<br />
house next to the palace is home to a gallery with some of<br />
the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the<br />
Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. On the first floor you’ll<br />
find lovely modern pieces in the colourful style emblematic<br />
of contemporary Dubrovnik painters, while the second floor<br />
shows more traditional works by Croatian masters such as<br />
Bukovac and Meštrović.Entrance 30kn. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
20:00. Closed Mon.<br />
The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Placa bb.<br />
For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its<br />
gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail,<br />
this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s<br />
column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed<br />
the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s<br />
trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium<br />
is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A<br />
room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of<br />
fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik (1991-92, open<br />
10:00-13:00). The upper galleries were once the place where<br />
the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building<br />
also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove<br />
of documentation on the Republic. <strong>In</strong> the gift shop on the<br />
ground floor (open 10:00-23:00), you can buy replicas of these<br />
historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here<br />
for research purposes<br />
The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i<br />
židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5, tel. 32 10 28. The<br />
Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague)<br />
and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be<br />
reached from within the surrounding houses in what was<br />
once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community<br />
here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the<br />
exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished<br />
and included respected doctors, merchants and state<br />
representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom,<br />
but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain<br />
points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with<br />
heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue<br />
ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah<br />
scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish<br />
community in Dubrovnik.<br />
War photo limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. 32 21 66,<br />
fax 32 21 67, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.<br />
com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war<br />
by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested<br />
in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes<br />
disturbing - images. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Climbing<br />
Prevlaka Nature Park Gruda 152, Konavle, tel. 79 15<br />
55, fax 79 15 56, www.prevlaka.hr. This adventure park<br />
offers loads for active souls - choose between free climbing,<br />
paintball, biking or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you<br />
can have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in<br />
the clean sea. Entry 15kn, for climbing and group activities you<br />
should call 098 26 14 66. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Horse riding<br />
Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. 098 60<br />
69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Even<br />
a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the Konavle<br />
countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof instructions<br />
are provided. Working hours are 08:00 - 12:00 but they’re<br />
always available on the 098 mobile number.<br />
Sailing<br />
YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. 43 59 22/ 43 69<br />
69, jd-orsan@du.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00<br />
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Scuba diving<br />
Abyss - Diving & Water-sport center G-2, Iva Dulčića<br />
35(Hotel Dubrovnik President), tel. 098 76 56 85/ 098<br />
24 43 49, diving@apnea.hr, www.dubrovnikdiving.eu.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 19:30.<br />
Diving club Dubrovnik H-2, Ivana Zajca 35, tel. 43<br />
57 37/ 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver.hr, www.du-diver.hr.<br />
On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour. Trips depart at 10:00<br />
and 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Navis F/G-1, Copacabana beach, tel. 099 350 27 73,<br />
fax 35 65 01, navis@du.t-com.hr, www.navis-dubrovnik.<br />
com. Contact one of the numbers above to discuss your<br />
needs. QOpen 09:30 - 14:00.<br />
Sea kayaking<br />
Adriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6,<br />
tel. 31 27 70/ 091 722 04 13, fax 31 27 69, info@<br />
adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com.<br />
Booking office at Banje beach. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
LaurAdventure K-4, Istarska 3, tel. 091 930 92 60/<br />
091 530 25 12, info@laura-adventure.com, www.lauraadventure.com.<br />
Sea kayaking, free climbing, trekking. For<br />
info call the mobiles above.<br />
Tennis<br />
Babin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel. 44<br />
76 27. You should call for an appointment to check when there<br />
is a free court, 40kn per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira<br />
bb, tel. 43 73 55/ 43 73 57, fax 43 73 57, glavinic@<br />
net.hr. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier.<br />
50kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 80kn.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
sPort<br />
Summer 2008<br />
33
34 MaiL & Phones<br />
City codes<br />
Zagreb 01<br />
Split 021<br />
Šibenik 022<br />
Zadar 023<br />
Rijeka 051<br />
Mobile phones<br />
Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most everywhere<br />
in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths<br />
that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks.<br />
Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal<br />
renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter<br />
the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches<br />
and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to<br />
warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central<br />
European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091),<br />
T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can<br />
be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in<br />
news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards<br />
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.<br />
They all have numerous selling points throughout the city<br />
if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.<br />
T-mobile, V. Nazora 32 (0800) 90 00<br />
Vip, F. Supila 5, tel. 091 77 00<br />
Express mail<br />
City Express I-3, Vukovarska 30, tel. 31 18 00/ 0800<br />
303 333, fax 31 18 01, dubrovnik@cityexpress.hr,<br />
www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet places<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong>ternet Centre K-5, Branitelja Dubrovnika<br />
7, tel. 098 56 47 15. Just outside the Old Town on the<br />
Pile side, surf 5kn / 12min and make use of their cheap<br />
international calls service. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
Du Net G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 36, Hotel Park<br />
park, e-park@dunet.hr. This is an outdoor internet park in<br />
Lapad bay. 5kn / 10min. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Making the call<br />
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,<br />
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you<br />
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local<br />
Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit<br />
number, and place the receiver to your ear. National<br />
Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling<br />
Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s<br />
number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international<br />
access code), the appropriate country code, a city or<br />
area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number.<br />
Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international<br />
access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city<br />
code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number.<br />
Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and<br />
begin with either 091 or 098. Dial the subscriber’s<br />
number and wait for a human voice.<br />
Hugo B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. 32 20 69/ 091 723 20 51.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet, playstation and PC games, burning photos, scanning<br />
and printing. Ring home for cheap too! 5kn / 15min, 20kn /<br />
hr QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. 32 10 25, netcafe_<br />
dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A sweet and<br />
bright little café in the Old Town. 30kn/hr surfing, plus print,<br />
copy, scan, fax, burn, connect yourlaptop. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
01:00. PNB<br />
Planet A-2, Put sv. Đurđa 2, tel. 091 524 50 78, zdenko.<br />
hilfner@yahoo.com. Coin-operated computers: surf for 30kn<br />
an hour or send a mail for 3kn. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
Phone cards<br />
You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at any<br />
kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15,30,50 and<br />
100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards<br />
which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.<br />
Post<br />
Main post office (I-3), Vukovarska 16, tel. 36 20<br />
68QOpen 07:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun cls<br />
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 21 (H-2), tel. 41 26 74QOpen<br />
07:30-21:00, Sat 08:00-12:00 and 18:00-21:00, Sun cls.<br />
Široka b.b.(B-2), tel. 32 34 27QOpen 07:30-21:00, Sat<br />
10:00-17:00, Sun cls.<br />
Branitelja Dubrovnika 2 (K-5), tel. 41 12 65QOpen<br />
09:00-16:00, Sat and Sun cls.<br />
Frana Supila 10 (L-5), tel. 41 37 55QOpen 08:00-12:00<br />
and 18:00-21:00, Sat and Sun cls.<br />
Gruška obala 24 (I-2), tel. 41 93 06QOpen 08:00-15:00,<br />
Sat and Sun cls.)<br />
Wi-fi internet access<br />
If you’re out and about with your laptop, you’ll find a<br />
growing number of HotSpots in Dubrovnik. Visit one of the<br />
following HotSpot locations for wireless internet access:<br />
ACI Marina Dubrovnik Komolac b.b., tel. 45 50 21.<br />
Airport Čilipi, tel. 77 33 77, www.airport-dubrovnik.<br />
hr.<br />
Hotel Argentina (M-5), Frana Supila 14, tel. 44 05<br />
55.<br />
Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana<br />
2, tel. 32 34 76.<br />
Street smart<br />
Street ulica Square trg<br />
Road cesta Walk šetalište<br />
Passage prolaz Way put<br />
City centre centar Station stanica<br />
Airline offices<br />
Croatia Airlines A-2, Brsalje 9, tel. 41 37 76, fax 41<br />
39 93, dbvto@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Dubrovnik Airline Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Ćilipi, tel.<br />
77 37 00, fax 77 37 80, info@dubrovnikairline.com,<br />
www.dubrovnikairline.com. Charter airline. They are<br />
also available for 24 hours a day only durring Sat and Sun<br />
on telephone number 77 37 05. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Airport<br />
Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik)<br />
Ćilipi, Konavle, tel. 77 33 33/ 77 32 22, www.airportdubrovnik.hr.<br />
The advent of well priced tickets for domestic<br />
flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around<br />
the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets<br />
selling for rock bottom prices - a single to Zagreb can cost<br />
as little as 200kn, but you must reserve your ticket well in<br />
advance - or strike it lucky - to get these. <strong>In</strong>ternational flights<br />
are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget<br />
airlines such as Sky Europe, Germanwings and Norwegian Air<br />
Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations. Getting<br />
there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost<br />
getting around<br />
35kn one way, or call a taxi (200kn). Check with your airline<br />
for the bus timetable. If you take your car there’s a long stay<br />
car park (30kn per day).<br />
Car rental<br />
ABC I-2, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. 31 36 36 / 091<br />
357 04 50, fax. 31 36 87, abc.dubrovnik@gmail.com.<br />
For any information call 091 357 04 50. QOpen 00:00 -<br />
24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. 43 70 66 / 098<br />
28 53 15, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr, www.adriarent.hr.<br />
You can also rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Budget I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 24, tel. 41 89<br />
98/ 099 201 46 38, dbd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Dollar&Thrifty Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Ćilipi, tel. 77<br />
35 88, fax 77 35 89, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa.hr, www.<br />
subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Gulliver I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 31, tel. 31 33 21/<br />
098 39 37 83, fax 41 91 19, rentacar-ploce@gulliver.hr,<br />
www.gulliver.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Hertz L-5, Frana Supila 9, tel. 42 50 00/ 091 425 00<br />
01, fax 42 51 11, dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at<br />
the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: 77 15 68, 091 /<br />
425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 11:00. A<br />
Uni rent Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. 77 34 80, fax 77<br />
34 93, uni-rent@du.t-com.hr, www.uni-rent.net. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00. A<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2008<br />
35
36<br />
getting around<br />
Road help 987<br />
Gas station<br />
Gas station (0-24) Komolac, Ogarići 8, tel. 45 34 66;<br />
Kupari, Kuparsko polje b.b., tel. 48 67 22, 48 67 26;<br />
Ploče, Dalmatinska bb, tel. 67 62 27; Ston, Zaton Doli<br />
bb, tel. 75 35 96; Opuzen, Jadranska 6, tel. 67 22 60<br />
Harbour office<br />
Harbour office (Lučka kapetanija) Obala Stjepana<br />
Radića 37, tel. 41 89 88, fax 41 89 87, www.mmtpr.<br />
hr. 24 hours <strong>In</strong>fo: 41 89 89<br />
Long distance coaches<br />
Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala<br />
pape Ivana Pavla II 44a, tel. 060 30 50 70/ 31 32 75,<br />
fax 31 32 74, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Since there’s<br />
no railway station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach<br />
has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and<br />
abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian<br />
destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia<br />
and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Germany,<br />
Italy, Montenegro and Macedonia. Coach travel is the quickest<br />
and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re<br />
heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first.<br />
You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey!<br />
QOpen 05:30 - 22:30.<br />
Low cost airlines<br />
Flybe, www.flybe.com.<br />
Myair, www.myair.com.<br />
Norwegian Air Shuttle, www.norwegian.com.<br />
Parking<br />
There’s one problem with having a town clustered within city<br />
walls - there’s nowhere to park. When the tourist season is<br />
at its height, parking is almost impossible - the car parks<br />
around the centre are barely sufficient for the locals. So do<br />
make sure that your hotel secures parking for you. If not,<br />
try to find a parking spot on the Lapad peninsula and enjoy<br />
Dubrovnik for what it is - a city of pedestrians. There are<br />
several 24hr guarded car parks located around the city walls,<br />
and one at the Gruž harbour. You’ll pay 10kn/hr during the<br />
summer, and space is limited. See the maps at the back of<br />
the guide for locations.<br />
Text message parking Croatia was the first ever country<br />
to introduce payment by text message for street parking!<br />
It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in.<br />
Send the registration number of your car as a text message<br />
(no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number<br />
shown. <strong>Your</strong> payment is confirmed when you get a message<br />
back from them. Different zones have different max waiting<br />
times and prices.<br />
Public transport<br />
City buses, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. The orange<br />
city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!) You’ll be<br />
amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the<br />
coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels<br />
on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county,<br />
and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry,<br />
no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for<br />
a route map. Tickets are cheaper from news kiosks - 8kn<br />
for a single journey, or 10kn from the driver. Stamp your<br />
ticket on entry.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Taxi<br />
Tel. 0800 14 41. The easiest and simplest way to get a<br />
cab is to call 0800 1441, otherwise you’ll find them on the<br />
following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour,<br />
Ploče, Lapad. There are no night supplements, you’ll always<br />
pay an 25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item<br />
and 80kn per hour for waiting.<br />
Towed away<br />
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might<br />
come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that<br />
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot on<br />
Starčevićeva ulica (leads from Pile to Gruž). It’s open 24 hours.<br />
The bad news is you’ll have to pay a charge of 300kn for<br />
the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 800kn. Let’s face it, it<br />
could be worse! The people there speak English and accept<br />
payment by credit card.<br />
Train<br />
Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve<br />
Dubrovnik. <strong>In</strong>ter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train,<br />
travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such<br />
as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would<br />
probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour odyssey and travel to<br />
Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the<br />
Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you<br />
can take the sleeper. Drivers can rest up and escape tourist<br />
traffic by loading their car on a train at 186 - 260kn, travelling<br />
to Split and then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-<br />
Split motorway has reduced journey times from to about 5<br />
hours (traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take<br />
the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-Osijek-<br />
Budapest route, which takes the best part of 17 hours.<br />
Travel Agencies<br />
Atlas A-2 / K-5, Sv. Đurđa 1, Pile, tel. 44 25 74/ 44<br />
25 70, fax 32 36 09, atlas.pile@atlas.hr, www.atlascroatia.com.<br />
One of the biggies - all kinds of trips in store.<br />
Fancy trying a canoe or jeep safari? Step this way... QOpen<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A<br />
Dubrovnik Travel I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.<br />
31 35 55, fax 31 35 50, info@dubrovniktravel.hr, www.<br />
dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours!<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Elite I-3, Vukovarska 17, tel. 35 82 00, fax 35 83 03,<br />
elite@elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding<br />
to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Globtour C-2, Prijeko 12, tel. 32 15 99, fax 32 15<br />
90, globtour1@globdu.hr, www.globtour.hr. Visit their<br />
website to explore a world of possibilities, including a stay in<br />
your very own lighthouse! There’s a branch on Stradun open<br />
daily 08:00-20:00, tel. 32 33 12. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Perla Adriatica M-5 / L-5, Frana Supila 2, tel. 42<br />
27 66/ 098 37 79 54, perla-adriatica@du.htnet.hr.<br />
By the Ploče gates, a good place to try if you’re looking for<br />
private accommodation. Also excursions, rental of bikes,<br />
scooters and boats, plus exchange services. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00.<br />
Vivado Šetalište M.Marojice bb, Mlini, tel./fax 48 64<br />
71, tel. 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.<br />
hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting around<br />
Summer 2008<br />
37
38<br />
getting around<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Side trip<br />
Poor Zagreb. It’s a city of almost a million people – a<br />
fourth of the nation– and the cultural, scientific, industrial<br />
and governmental center of Croatia. Yet the slick travel<br />
writing, the television spots awash in blue water and<br />
golden sunlight usually focus on the coast.<br />
But Zagreb is a treat to visit, possibly as a counterpoint<br />
to a stay on the Croatian coast. That’s because when<br />
thousands of tourists are wedged between Dalmatian<br />
city walls or blanketing the beaches, Zagreb quietly goes<br />
about its own business. And in winter, while the coast is<br />
quiet except for the icy bura wind, Zagreb’s streets and<br />
cafes are lively.<br />
When Dubrovnik was a trading power and Split and<br />
Zadar were Venetian ports, Zagreb was an outpost on<br />
the Austro-Hungarian frontier. But 19th Century prosperity<br />
brought monumental civic and cultural buildings<br />
and modernization to its streets. As a result, Zagreb is<br />
a pleasantly walkable city. You can see its Centar in a<br />
few hours, but an extra day, or two, allows you to see<br />
interesting museums and a show at the lovely National<br />
Theatre or Lisinski Concert Hall. You can buy tickets for<br />
plays, operas and ballets at the box office and website<br />
of each venue.<br />
Any visit to Zagreb has to begin at its main square, Trg<br />
Bana Jelačića, named for the 19th Century Croatian governor<br />
still honored for abolishing serfdom and promoting<br />
Croatian autonomy. His equestrian statue faces south;<br />
originally it aimed north, toward his Hungarian foes.<br />
Nearby is Zagreb’s neo-Gothic cathedral, rebuilt by the<br />
Austrian architect Hermann Bolle after an 1880 earthquake.<br />
At Dolac, the city’s main market, you can buy<br />
all kinds of fresh foods.<br />
Zagreb used to be two towns, the religious center Kaptol,<br />
with the cathedral, and commercial and civil Gradec.<br />
The lovely pedestrian street Tkalčićeva and its trendy<br />
shops, restaurants and cafes originally was the boundary<br />
between them.<br />
The Kamenita Gate, the medieval entrance to Gradec,<br />
is a candlelit shrine. Votive plaques thanking Mary for<br />
answered prayers line its walls. Gradec remains the seat<br />
of Croatia’s government, but also has several restaurants<br />
and cafes, galleries and museums. The City Museum tells<br />
Zagreb’s story from primitive village to present day. Klovićevi<br />
Dvori Gallery hosts art exhibitions of international<br />
renown. A funicular railway descends to “Donji Grad,” the<br />
lower city. Beware of the noon firing of the cannon from the<br />
Lotrščak Tower. It has a way of surprising people.<br />
Perhaps Zagreb’s loveliest square is Zrinjevac, named for<br />
Nikola Šubić Zrinski, a 16th Century hero. On the square<br />
is Zagreb’s Archaeology Museum, home to thousands<br />
of artifacts. Zrinjevac is also a great place for art. The<br />
Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters consists of pre-Renaissance<br />
to 19th Century works from the collection of<br />
Bishop Juraj Strossmayer; for more recent works, check<br />
out the Modern Art Gallery. The Art Pavilion, originally<br />
built for a Hungarian exposition, dismantled and rebuilt<br />
between Zrinjevac and the main train station, produces<br />
temporary art shows. But Zrinjevac is a pleasant place to<br />
rest in its own right, under tall shade trees, with the rush<br />
of a fountain and among bright flower gardens. Summer<br />
concerts are held on Saturdays at the gazebo.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
getting around<br />
Summer 2008<br />
39
40<br />
getting around<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational bus schedule<br />
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik<br />
Days Dep. Destination Days Arr.<br />
1234567 10:30 BUDVA 1234567 17:00<br />
1234567 05:00 FRANKFURT 1234567 14:45<br />
1234567 09:30 HERCEG NOVI 1234567 11:00<br />
1234567 15:30 HERCEG NOVI 1234567 17:00<br />
1234567 17:15 MEĐUGORJE 1234567 10:30<br />
1234567 08:00 MOSTAR 1234567 10:15<br />
1234567 17:15 MOSTAR 1234567 13:40<br />
1234567 05:00 MUNICH 1234567 14:45<br />
1234567 02:15 PODGORICA 1234567 16:15<br />
1234567 08:00 SARAJEVO 1234567 05:10<br />
1234567 22:30 SARAJEVO 1234567 13:40<br />
1234567 04:40 SKOPJE 1234567 18:00<br />
1234567 08:30 TRIESTE 1234567 17:00<br />
Domestic bus schedule<br />
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik<br />
Days Dep. Destination Days Arr.<br />
1234567 07:00 KARLOVAC 1234567 07:15<br />
1234567 19:00 KARLOVAC 11:15<br />
1234567 18:00 KNIN 1234567 10:30<br />
1234567 15:00 KORČULA - VELA LUKA 1234567 09:50<br />
1234567 05:00 MAKARSKA 1234567 05:45<br />
1234567 11:00 MAKARSKA 1234567 10:50<br />
1234567 21:00 MAKARSKA 1234567 18:30<br />
1234567 08:00 METKOVIĆ 1234567 09:15<br />
1234567 18:00 METKOVIĆ 1234567 14:00<br />
1234567 17:15 OSIJEK 1234567 10:30<br />
1234567 08:00 PLOČE 1234567 12:45<br />
1234567 15:30 PULA 1234567 10:50<br />
1234567 06:30 RIJEKA 1234567 10:50<br />
1234567 15:30 RIJEKA 1234567 19:30<br />
1234567 17:00 RIJEKA 1234567 21:45<br />
1234567 15:30 ROVINJ 1234567 10:50<br />
1234567 07:00 SPLIT 1234567 07:15<br />
1234567 11:00 SPLIT 1234567 11:15<br />
1234567 16:30 SPLIT 1234567 16:20<br />
1234567 21:00 SPLIT 1234567 20:40<br />
1234567 05:00 ŠIBENIK 1234567 08:30<br />
1234567 11:00 ŠIBENIK 1234567 14:30<br />
1234567 17:00 ŠIBENIK 1234567 21:45<br />
1234567 08:00 TROGIR 1234567 08:30<br />
1234567 15:30 TROGIR 1234567 19:30<br />
1234567 17:15 VARAŽDIN 1234567 20:30<br />
1234567 06:00 ZADAR 1234567 08:30<br />
1234567 11:00 ZADAR 1234567 14:30<br />
1234567 06:00 ZAGREB 1234567 06:45<br />
1234567 15:30 ZAGREB 1234567 11:15<br />
1234567 18:00 ZAGREB 1234567 11:30<br />
1234567 21:00 ZAGREB 1234567 18:00<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is not responsible for schedule changes<br />
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is not responsible for schedule changes<br />
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun<br />
Ferries and boats<br />
getting around<br />
Jadrolinija, S. Radića 40, Dubrovnik, tel.41 80 00, fax.41 81 11, www.jadrolinija.hr, open daily 08:00-20:00.<br />
Mediteranska plovidba, Foša 2, Korčula, tel.71 11 56, fax. 71 11 57, www.medplov.hr, info@medplov.hr,<br />
ticket office open as long as ferry runs (you should be there half an hour earlier)<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational line<br />
Jadrolinija international ferry Dubrovnik-Bari<br />
On Mon, Tue and Wed ferry leaves Dubrovnik at 23:00 and gets to Bari 08:00 next morning.<br />
On Fri leaves at 11:30 and gets to Bari 19:30, on Sat. leaves at 16:00, gets to Bari 22:00 and<br />
on Sun leaves 12:30, gets to Bari 20:00.<br />
From Bari ferries depart at 22:00 on Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri and Sun and get to Dubrovnik 07:00<br />
next morning. On Sat ferry leaves at 23:59 and gets to Dubrovnik also at 07:00.<br />
Local lines<br />
Jadrolinja ferry Prapratno (Pelješac peninsula) - Sobra (Mljet island)<br />
From Prapratno From Sobra<br />
07:00 (Sun 09:00) 06:00<br />
10:15 (Sun 11:00) 09:00 (Sun 10:00)<br />
13:00 12:00<br />
17:00 (Mon and Wed 18:00) 16:00<br />
20:30 19:00<br />
Medplov ferry Orebić (Pelješac peninsula) - Dominče (Korčula island)<br />
From Orebić 1st leaves at 04:00 (except Sun and holidays) then 05:30 and every hour up to<br />
15:30 (except the one at 07:20), then 16:45, 18:00, 19:30, 21:00, 22:30, last 00:30<br />
From Korčula 1st leaves at 03:30 (except Sun and holdays) then 05:00, every hour up to 16:00,<br />
17:30, 19:00, 20:00, 22:00, last 24:00.<br />
Medplov ferry Korčula - Drvenik (11. 07 - 31. 08.)<br />
Leaves Korčula at 04:30, 10:30 and 16:30 (20.06. - 10.07. only at 05:15 and 14:30)<br />
Leaves Drvenik 07:30, 13:30 and 19:15 (20.06. - 10.07. only at 08:30 and 17:30)<br />
Medplov passanger boats Orebić (Pelješac peninsula) - Korčula (Korčula island)<br />
Lovor/Tamaris From Orebić on weekdays you have 1st sail at 05:20 (05:00 from Korčula) for catching<br />
connection to catamaran Korčula - Split, it doesn’t sail if catamaran is canceled<br />
After it departs from Orebić at 07:20 (not weekends and holidays), 09:30, every hour or two<br />
till 20:20, (21:30 and 23:20 11.06. - 31.08.)<br />
From Korčula boat runs at 07:00 (not weekends and holidays), 09:00, every hour or two till<br />
20:00 (21:00 and 23:00 11.06 - 31.08.)<br />
Jadrolinija ferry Ploče - Trpanj (Pelješac peninsula)<br />
From Ploče From Trpanj<br />
05:00 06:15<br />
07:30 09:00<br />
10:15 11:15<br />
12:30 13:30<br />
15:00 16:30<br />
17:30 18:45<br />
20:00 21:00<br />
Jadrolinja katamaran Split - Hvar - Vela luka - Ubli (Lastovo island)<br />
Sails from Split every day at 15:00, gets to Hvar at 15:50, V.Luka at 16:45 and reaches Ubli<br />
at 17:45.<br />
Sails from Ubli Mon to Sat at 04:25 (Sun 07:00), gets to V.Luka at 05:10 (07:45), Hvar 06:15<br />
(08:45) and reaches Split 07:30 (Sun 10:00).<br />
Jadrolinija ferry Split - Vela Luka (Korčula island) - Ubli (Lastovo island)<br />
Ferry sails from Split at 17:30, stops at Vela Luka and gets to Ubli at 22:00. From V. Luka there<br />
are additional lines at 09:30 and 13:45 that gets to Ubli at 11:00 and 15:15.<br />
From Ubli ferry runs at 04:30 and gets to Split at 09:00.There are additional lines from Ubli to<br />
Vela Luka at 11:30 and 17:30 reaching it at 13:00 and 19:00.<br />
Krilo catamaran Korčula - Prigradica - Hvar - Split<br />
(01.06. - 30.09. Tickets: Marko Polo tours, tel. 71 54 00 on Korčula, Jadrolinija Split shop on the<br />
peir) - it docks to Prigradica only if weather conditions alow.<br />
From Korčula leaves at 06:00, comes to Prigradica at 06:35, Hvar at 07:25 and reaches<br />
Split 08:30.<br />
From Split leaves at 17:00, gets to Hvar at 17:50, Prigradica 18:50 and reaches Korčula 19:25.<br />
Summer 2008<br />
41
42<br />
getting around<br />
... Ferries and boats<br />
Jadrolinija boat (21.06 - 31.08.) Dubrovnik - Koločep - Lopud - Šipan<br />
From Dubrovnik on weekdays and Sat. boats leaving at 10:00, 13:30 and 16:00 gets to<br />
Koločep, Lopud and dock in Suđurad at 11:05, 14:35 and 17:05.<br />
The last one that leaves at 20:00 stops at every port and will take you to Luka Šipanska (21:40).<br />
On Sundays and holidays boats leave Dubrovnik at 09:00,11:30, 18:15 till Suđurad, getting<br />
there at 10:05,12:35 and 19:20.<br />
The one going all the way leaves at 20:45 arriving in Luka Šipanska at 22:30.<br />
From Luka Šipanska there is only one line during day on weekdays and Sat that stops in every<br />
port at 05:30 getting to Dubrovnik at 07:10.<br />
Three times a day boat leaves Suđurađ (11:15,14:35 and 18:35) arriving to Dubrovnik at<br />
13:00, 15:25 and 19:40. Sundays and holidays line leaving 07:00 stops in every port and gets to<br />
Dubrovnik at 08:40, others are leaving at 10:10, 17:00 and 19:30 getting to Dubrovnik at<br />
11:12, 18:05 and 20:35.<br />
Jadrolinija ferry Dubrovnik - Sobra(Mljet island)<br />
From Dubrovnik daily at 14:30 (Mon and Wed 15:30) reaching Sobra at 17:00. Additional line<br />
from Dubrovnik to Suđurad on Mon and Wed at 10:00 getting there at 11:00.<br />
From Sobra daily at 06:30 reaching Dubrovnik at 09:00, on Mon and Wed from Suđurad also at<br />
14:00 getting to Dubrovnik at 15:00.<br />
Nona Ana catamaran Dubrovnik - Luka Šipanska - Sobra (Mljet island) - Korčula - Lastovo<br />
(only during July and August), you get tickets on dock before boarding, on Korčula in Marco Polo<br />
Tours and Korkyra agency.<br />
From Dubrovnik leaving on Tue and Thu at 08:00 getting to Korčula 10:45, Lastovo at 11:15.<br />
From Lastovo leaving on Tue and Thu at 14:40 getting to Korčula 16:00, Dubrovnik at 18:35.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Domestic flight schedule<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational flight schedule<br />
getting around<br />
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik<br />
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.<br />
-2----- 09:45 10:55 OSIJEK -2----- 14:35 15:45<br />
--3--- 19.15 20:15 PULA --3---- 07:20 08:15<br />
--3---- 14:15 14:50 SPLIT --3---- 18:00 18:35<br />
----5-- 20:05 20:24 SPLIT ----6- 21:00 21:35<br />
-----67 06:05 07:00 ZAGREB ----5-- 05:45 06:40<br />
12345-- 06:25 07:20 ZAGREB --3---- 06:00 08:15<br />
-----6- 07:55 08:50 ZAGREB -2-4-6- 06:20 07:15<br />
----5-- 12:50 13:45 ZAGREB ------7 07:00 07:55<br />
-2----- 13:40 14:35 ZAGREB 1------ 12:05 13:00<br />
---4--- 14:45 15:40 ZAGREB 12---6- 14:15 15:10<br />
12----- 15:50 16:45 ZAGREB ----5-- 14:20 15:15<br />
-2----- 16:15 17:30 ZAGREB --3--6- 14:30 15:25<br />
----5-- 16:20 17:15 ZAGREB ----5-- 14:45 15:10<br />
--3---- 19:15 21:30 ZAGREB --3--67 21:00 21:55<br />
--3--6- 19:50 20:45 ZAGREB 12-45-- 21:20 22:15<br />
------7 21:50 22:45 ZAGREB -----6- 22:55 23:50<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is not responsible for schedule changes<br />
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun<br />
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik<br />
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.<br />
1------ 13:40 16:10 AMSTERDAM 1------ 17:00 19:10<br />
------7 12:00 17:10 AMSTERDAM --3---- 11:20 15:45<br />
-2345-- 06:25 10:30 AMSTERDAM ------7 11:20 15:10<br />
--3-5-- 16:20 22:00 BARI --3---- 14:35 19:10<br />
-----6- 06:05 09:45 BRUXELLES 12----- 11:10 15.10<br />
1-3-5-- 06:25 10:25 BRUXELLES -2----- 18:20 22:15<br />
12345-- 06:25 10:25 BRUXELLES ------7 18:20 21:55<br />
--3--6- 16:00 22:35 CATANIA --3--6- 14:15 19:10<br />
----5-- 07:30 09:35 FRANKFURT 1------ 14:50 16:35<br />
-2----- 08:15 10:20 FRANKFURT ---4--- 14:50 16:35<br />
1--4--- 12:05 14:10 FRANKFURT -----6- 18:50 20:35<br />
--3--6- 16:00 21:50 GENOA --3---- 15:00 19:10<br />
------7 12:00 19:05 ISTANBUL -2----- 11:00 15:10<br />
-2----- 08:15 15:25 LISABON 1--4--- 08:35 16:35<br />
-----6- 06:05 11:00 LONDON(LHR) -2----- 11:50 22:15<br />
-2----- 06:25 11:00 LONDON(LHR) -----6- 16:40 21:55<br />
--3---- 06:25 11:00 LONDON(LHR) --3---- 17:00 21:55<br />
12345-- 06:25 10:25 MUNICH 1------ 08:45 13:00<br />
----5-- 16:20 19:50 MUNICH ----5-- 11:05 15:15<br />
--3--6- 16:00 19:30 PALERMO --3--6- 15:30 19:10<br />
--3-5-- 14:40 17:10 PARIS --3-5-- 11:35 13:50<br />
12-4--- 06:25 10:35 PARIS 1----6- 11:35 15:10<br />
-----6- 06:05 10:35 PARIS ---4--- 17:30 22:15<br />
--3--6- 16:00 17:05 ROMA 1---5-7 14:40 15:50<br />
1---5-7 16:40 17:50 ROMA --3--6- 18:00 19:10<br />
1------ 06:10 13:00 SKOPJE 1---5-- 06:25 15:20<br />
-----6- 06:10 15:10 SKOPJE -2----- 15:50 22:15<br />
1---5-- 16:00 22:15 SKOPJE -----6- 19:50 22:45<br />
1------ 20:35 23:15 TEL AVIV ---4--- 21:00 23:50<br />
---4-- 17:20 21:00 TEL AVIV ---4--- 22:00 23:50<br />
--3---- 16:00 21:00 TURIN --3---- 14:40 19:10<br />
1234567 15:25 16:50 VIENNA 1234567 13:10 14:40<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is not responsible for schedule changes<br />
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Summer 2008<br />
43
44 shoPPing<br />
Art galleries<br />
Đardin C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. 32 47 44, mm.design@<br />
inet.hr, www.cro-art-design.com. A terrifyingly large<br />
display of jewellery made with semi-precious stones, including<br />
pieces in traditional Dubrovnik style. A super old building and<br />
courtyard. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel./fax<br />
32 35 23. Take home a little reminder of renaissance<br />
Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q<br />
Mon to Fri 09:00-12:00;18:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-13:00,<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Artur D-3, Zlatarska 1, tel. 32 37 73/ 098 28 53 98,<br />
arturgallery@hotmail.com. A fantastic selection of high<br />
quality local and Croatian art and jewellery. They also have<br />
art work shops durring whole year so if you are interested you<br />
know what to do... QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A<br />
Baboon I-4, Dr. Vlatka Mačeka 30, tel. 33 17 50/ 098<br />
85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com. Handmade jewellery,<br />
paper flowers and original gifts. Q Mon to Fri 09:00-12:00<br />
and 16:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Ivana Bačura D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. 32 20 03/ 091 543<br />
13 21, ibacura@net.hr, www.ivanabacura.com. A young<br />
jewelry designer, whose artistic approach and originality will<br />
amaze you. Her appealing creations are diverse, eclectic and<br />
most importantly a means of self-expression. Bačura belongs<br />
to a generation of young Croatian jewelry designers and you<br />
can expect a range of accessories that are refreshing and<br />
imaginative. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Kike C-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. 32 32 90/ 091 250<br />
65 25, kristina.skvrce@gmail.com, www.kike-dekor-du.<br />
hr. A florist’s atelier selling arrangements of fresh and dried<br />
flowers. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Kuća Bukovac Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. 47 86 46,<br />
muzeji-i-galerije-konavala@du.t-com.hr. Q Open Mon -<br />
Sat 09:00 - 13:00 and 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Munčjela B-2, Od Puča 13, tel. 32 31 84. A place to<br />
pick up a piece of traditional Konavle embroidery. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 20:30.<br />
Palma L-5, Frana Supila 10, tel. 091 55 39 608/ 091<br />
51 42 018, www.dubrovnik-advance.com/palma. Unique<br />
ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 13:00 and 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 -<br />
13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. 091 584<br />
49 46/ 091 50 13 318, info@romana-milutin.com, www.<br />
romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring<br />
Dubrovnik motifs. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00 and 18:00 - 22:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. 32 36 99/ 098 82 04 16,<br />
ronchi@dubrovnik-online.hr, www.dubrovnik-online.<br />
com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don’t want to look like<br />
a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858,<br />
still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods.<br />
Q Open Mon - Fri 09:30 - 13:00 and 18:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Sebastian D-2, Sv. Dominika 5, tel./fax 32 14 90,<br />
tel. 091 505 51 16, galerija.sebastian@gmail.com. An<br />
important gallery exhibiting works by leading Dubrovnik and<br />
Croatian artists. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Sv. Luka C-2, Žuljanska 2, tel. 32 16 03/ 098 61 79<br />
37, fax 35 65 38, bkurilic@globalnet.hr. See works of<br />
Croatian artists inside a pre-Romanesque church dating back<br />
to the 9th century. Q Open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 15:00 and<br />
17:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. A<br />
Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. 32 32 93, info@talirdubrovnik.hr,<br />
www.talir-dubrovnik.hr. Exhibitions and<br />
works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.<br />
Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice café next door.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 22:00. A<br />
Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. 32 15 54. Original Konavle<br />
handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Trinity C-2, Palmotićeva 2, tel. 32 23 50/ 098 45<br />
18 40, fax 32 23 49, kruno@gmx.com, www.trinity.<br />
hr. Experience the exclusive jewelry designs of Max Šedlar<br />
whose unique works can be found in prestigious Beverly Hill<br />
boutiques not to mention numerous other galleries across<br />
the world. Šedlar is a designer who tries to preserve the<br />
original shape of his materials with his craftsmanship, thus<br />
maintaining their original beauty. It’s contemporary, it’s<br />
dynamic and it’s absolutely worth a visit. QOpen 09:30<br />
- 23:00. A<br />
Cosmetics<br />
Drogerie Markt I-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. 45 68 00,<br />
www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr. The place to pick up anything<br />
from shampoo to mascara. Also at Doc shopping centre at<br />
Lapad. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Kosmo B-2, Široka 3, tel. 32 47 70, kozmo@kozmo.<br />
com.hr, www.kozmo.com. Croatian chain of drugstores.<br />
Get all your beach essentials here! QOpen 08:00 - 22:30,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 22:30. A<br />
Lush B-2, Široka 4, tel. 32 47 97, lush3@htnet.com,<br />
www.lush.com. All-natural hand-made soaps and perfumes<br />
from England to make you smell fruity and fresh. You’ll smell<br />
the shop before you even see it. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Rituals Splitska 1, Metković, tel. 68 34 33, renata.<br />
volarevic09@gmail.com, www.globalrelax.com. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Delicatessen<br />
Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. 32 20 92,<br />
fax 32 20 91, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr, www.dubrovackakuca.com.<br />
A treasure trove of local culture ready to take<br />
home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines<br />
and spirits, all local or Croatian. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel./fax 32<br />
48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr. A Croatian<br />
coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenirwrapped<br />
delicatessen and porcelain. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel./fax 32 10 49, tel. 32 10<br />
62, www.kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians<br />
have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and<br />
hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 23:00. A<br />
Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 17 77, fax 41<br />
67 73, www.dubrovnik-advance.com/vinoteka-milicic.<br />
Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top<br />
quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 23:00. A<br />
Nautical supplies<br />
Lalizas Marina Na skali 4, Komolac, ACI Marina, tel./<br />
fax 45 40 73, penul@penul.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Top Marine I-3, Nikole Tesle 2, Minčeta department<br />
store, tel./fax 35 70 17. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
shoPPing<br />
Summer 2008<br />
45
46 business directory<br />
Emergency numbers<br />
Police 92<br />
Fire department 93<br />
Ambulance 94<br />
Coast guard 9155<br />
Banks & Exchanges<br />
Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-3, Vukovarska 26,<br />
tel. 062 37 46 85/ 0800 7890 free info, fax 062 37<br />
46 86, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 26a,<br />
tel. 43 19 00, fax 43 19 90, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
OTP banka I-3, Vukovarska 19, tel. 062 20 15 55,<br />
fax 062 20 12 69, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16,<br />
Stradun, tel. 32 10 19 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. 72 01 00/<br />
72 01 03, fax 72 00 03, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Raiffeisen bank I-3, Vukovarska 17, tel. 44 18 00,<br />
fax 44 18 08, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Volksbank I-3, Vukovarska 36, tel. 35 89 00, fax 35<br />
89 10, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Zagrebačka banka I-3, Vukovarska 7, tel. 35 84<br />
20, fax 35 84 14, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva<br />
Poljana bb, tel. 32 40 58, 32 40 57, fax. 32 40 56 with same<br />
working hours. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Business Connections<br />
American College of Managemet and Technology<br />
K-5, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. 43 30 00, fax 43 30 01,<br />
american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.<br />
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik<br />
County Chamber J-4, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel./fax 41 20<br />
44, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Euro info Centre Relay Dubrovnik J-4, Pera Ćingrije<br />
6, tel. 31 20 99, www.euroinfo.hr; www.hgk.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Consulates<br />
Denmark H-3, Od sv. Mihajla 1, tel. 35 67 33/ 098<br />
20 62 97, fax 35 61 48, pmusladin@atlant.hr. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
The Netherlands H-3, Od sv. Mihajla 1, tel. 35 61 41/<br />
35 61 33, fax 35 67 29, ajerkovic@atlant.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Real estate<br />
Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel.<br />
098 20 30 82, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.alavijanekretnine.hr.<br />
Colliers <strong>In</strong>ternational F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 64, tel.<br />
43 72 00/ 43 72 01, fax 43 72 09, ivana.bucevic@<br />
colliers.com, www.colliers.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Croatian Sun H-3, Iva Vojnovića 52, tel. 31 22 28, fax<br />
31 22 26, info@croatiansun.com, www.croatiansun.<br />
com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed<br />
Sun.<br />
Dubrovnik Sun Vukovarska 17, tel. 35 86 60/ 098<br />
906 61 81, fax 35 86 61, info@dubrovniksun.com,<br />
www.dubrovniksun.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Pro Krečak I-3, Put Republike 12, tel. 43 66 02, fax<br />
43 66 01, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Tax free heaven<br />
Save money when you buy<br />
souvenirs and other stuff<br />
to take back home. Look<br />
for the “Tax Free” label<br />
on shop windows, or ask<br />
at the counter. When you<br />
buy goods totalling 500kn<br />
or more, they’ll give you a<br />
form. Get it stamped when<br />
you leave the country, and<br />
you’re entitled to a tax refund<br />
– follow the instructions on the form.<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
telephone code is +385-20<br />
business directory<br />
Summer 2008<br />
47
48 LifestyLe directory<br />
Dry cleaners & Laundries<br />
Dea J-4, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. 33 33 47/ 098 964 49<br />
20, okah@net.hr. Laundry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Domić K-5, Od kolorine 3, tel. 42 13 31. Dry cleaners.<br />
Open Mon to Fri 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat<br />
09:00-15:00, Sun cls.<br />
Elegant I-2, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. 098 42 86 71.<br />
Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. 41 25 18. Laundry<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.<br />
English books & newspapers<br />
Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. 32 20 44, fax 32 20 43,<br />
www.algoritam.hr. Books , magazines, newspapers, maps<br />
in many languages. Q Open: Mon to Fri 09:00-20:30 Sat<br />
09:00-13:00, Sun 10:00-13:00 and 18:00-22:00. A<br />
Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 14 26. Also offers<br />
lots of newspapers and magazines in different lenguages.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
Hospital<br />
General Hospital H-4, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. 431 777,<br />
fax 42 61 49, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.<br />
hr.<br />
Pets<br />
Bobanović K-4, Dr. Ante Starčevića 33, tel. 35 73 45/<br />
098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic<br />
for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. QOpen<br />
Mon to Fri 08:30-12:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-12:00,<br />
Sun cls. Q A<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. 45 14 66, fax 45 37 79, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr,<br />
www.dubrovnik-veterina.t-com.hr.<br />
Veterinary clinic. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Veterinary clinic Dubrovnik J-4, Vladimira Nazora<br />
37, tel. 42 46 96/ 098 45 04 14, fax 31 15 28,<br />
veterinarska.ambulanta.dubrovnik@du.htnet.hr.<br />
Veterinary clinic. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Gruž (H-1), Obala Pape Ivana Pavla 9, tel. 41 89 90<br />
QOpen 07:00-20:00, Sun cls.<br />
Kod zvonika (C-2), Placa 2, tel. 32 11 33QOpen<br />
07:00-20:00, Sun cls.<br />
Kod male braće (B-2), Placa 30, tel. 32 14 11<br />
QOpen07:00-19:30, Sun cls.<br />
Lapad (H-3), M. Vodopića 31, tel. 43 67 78 QOpen<br />
07:00-20:00, Sun cls.<br />
Mišković Trumbićev put 2, Cavtat, tel. 47 82 61<br />
QOpen07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00, Sun cls.<br />
Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by<br />
either Kod Zvonika pharmacy (weeks beginning 16th,<br />
continuing every other week), or Gruž pharmacy (weeks<br />
beginning 9th, again continuing every other week).<br />
Police station<br />
Coast guard I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 22, tel. 44 35<br />
55, fax 44 35 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Police station K-4, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. 44 37<br />
39/ 44 33 33, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Traffic police I-2, Andrije Hebranga 118, tel. 44 36 66,<br />
www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Korčula<br />
Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveler, Marco Polo, is<br />
a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the<br />
clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. It’s well worth a few<br />
days stay and a perfect place to recharge your batteries.<br />
Things to see and do: The best way to enjoy Korčula is to<br />
be without a plan. It doesn’t take long to wander through the<br />
old town where there are many opportunities for shutterbugs.<br />
Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as<br />
relief figures on the cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has<br />
it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the<br />
main entrance.<br />
The town museum and the local galleries can be fitted into<br />
a casual morning stroll. For a culture fix during the evening,<br />
check out the Moreška sword dance, originally performed<br />
across the Mediterranean since the 12th century, it’s still<br />
very much alive and a proud Korčulan tradition.<br />
If you are looking for more<br />
of an active holiday, you can<br />
book kayak and snorkeling<br />
trips or rent bicycles from<br />
any of the tourist agencies in<br />
town. Trekking tours are also<br />
available. For those looking<br />
to go a little bit deeper, talk<br />
to the nice English couple<br />
that set up Dupin Diving<br />
center near the Hotel Bon<br />
Repos.<br />
You also can’t go wrong<br />
renting a scooter or bike<br />
and heading towards the<br />
village of Lumbarda where<br />
you’ll find an actual sandy<br />
beach reachable through<br />
picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only<br />
produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been<br />
brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the<br />
stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries<br />
away from everything else.<br />
If the summer heat gets so overbearing that even a bathing<br />
suit is too much to take, jump in a water taxi to the nearby<br />
island of Badija, home to an old Franciscan monastery, where<br />
skinny dipping, although not obligatory, is welcome.<br />
Restaurants: If you are looking for a bite out in the old town<br />
of Korčula, there are many restaurants to choose from.<br />
Some highlights include: Mareta, run by a friendly Croatian/<br />
German couple, offers a tasty traditional menu with a twist;<br />
Marinero, two fisherman brothers who serve some of the<br />
freshest of seafood in town; Morski Konjić 1, an intimate,<br />
traditional konoba well known for its grill and Dalmatian fare;<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
Adio Mare, a local landmark; and Aborda, located in the<br />
ACI marina, offers a creative Croatian menu and top notch<br />
service. Those looking for a decent pizza, should check out<br />
Leut, Fortuna and Agava. Under no circumstances should<br />
you miss Smiljana’s cookies at Cukarin, they are unique as<br />
the island itself.<br />
For something different, head to Fresh, the first wraps and<br />
smoothies bar in Croatia. Serving up tastes from Asia, Mexico<br />
and the Med, Fresh also offers a free book exchange and<br />
foreign newspapers and magazines.<br />
Further a field, you’ll find some culinary gems. Highly<br />
recommended are the following: Grubinjac, on the road<br />
between Korčula and Zrnovo, has lovely dining terraces<br />
surrounded by olive trees and old stonewalls. Great place<br />
to feast while catching the sun going down; Mate in Pupnat<br />
serves up great food, wine, and peace.The menu is unique,<br />
their goat cheese with wild fennel tortellini will leave you in<br />
awe; Maslina en route to Lumbarda is popular with locals<br />
for a variety of well prepared dishes served by its friendly<br />
owners; and last but not least, Zure in Lumbarda is known<br />
for a fantastic homemade pomegranate alcohol and great<br />
seafood.<br />
Nightlife: While Korčula is not known for its nightlife you will<br />
be pleased to kick back for sunset cocktails at Tramonto<br />
or Massimo. Dno Dna is a funky bar that you would expect<br />
to find in places like Tokyo or New York. Small with a crazy<br />
interior designer, you’ll find interesting fixtures (including the<br />
many locals who frequent the place) and friendly bar staff.<br />
Fresh offers a great 2 for 1 happy hour. Later in the evening,<br />
mingle with local youth at Dos Locos before hitting Gaudi,<br />
a disco located in one of the oldest arsenals on the Adriatic<br />
and one of the only places where you can dance until early<br />
morning birds start chirping.<br />
Places to Stay: Korčula Backpacker (Korčula town, Korčula)<br />
Run by a wild young South African/Croatian, this is possibly<br />
the top hostel in Croatia. Situated in a lovely restored villa,<br />
it is a party place where you may find that your stay keeps<br />
getting longer and longer. Beware the beer bongs.<br />
Summer 2008<br />
49
50<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
Lastovo<br />
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes<br />
to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.<br />
Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well<br />
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,<br />
so access to the island was restricted. With not a great<br />
deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has<br />
been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an<br />
untouched ecological paradise.<br />
Many people sense in<br />
Lastovo a spirit unlike<br />
anything else, a sense<br />
of the breath of ages.<br />
Las tovo town si ts<br />
uphill in a basin facing<br />
away from the sea to<br />
escape the attentions<br />
of pirates. The mellow<br />
stone of the houses<br />
basking in the warm<br />
sunlight is captivating.<br />
Walking in the town’s<br />
streets, those with a<br />
sense for the antique<br />
and the eccentric will<br />
wonder at a culture<br />
so very detached from<br />
modern urban life.<br />
Lastovo is a town of<br />
chimneys. <strong>In</strong> times<br />
past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and<br />
ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples<br />
still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is<br />
the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating<br />
the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of<br />
the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly<br />
released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre<br />
with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At<br />
this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can<br />
see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet<br />
and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with<br />
colourful flowers.<br />
With so little (except carnivals)<br />
to disturb them, fish adore<br />
Lastovo, and you can be sure of<br />
an excellent meal here. Yachties<br />
far and wide religiously attend<br />
Konoba Triton at Zaklopatica,<br />
known for working magic with<br />
fresh fish and local capers.<br />
Lastovo has poor transpor t<br />
connections, few shops, and<br />
there is little accommodation<br />
apart from one hotel and a few<br />
families offering private rooms.<br />
But if you’re ready and able to<br />
explore, and happy to adapt to<br />
the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the<br />
start of an enduring love affair.<br />
Mljet - Odysseus’ isle<br />
Getting There and Around: These days regular ferries<br />
provide services to and from the mainland; daily connections<br />
from Dubrovnik and Prapratno on the peninsula of Pelješac to<br />
Sobra. Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car<br />
ferry and a catamaran. During the summer season there are<br />
also connections with Korčula, Lastovo and Bari.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Mljet is cca 5 miles away from the peninsula of Pelješac,<br />
cca 12 miles away from Korčula and cca 23 miles from<br />
Dubrovnik. Sobra is the main port of the island. The best<br />
sheltered harbours are Polače and Okuklje, very popular<br />
among yachtsmen.<br />
Where to stay: Mljet has just one hotel, but with two<br />
campgrounds and a plethora of private rooms and<br />
apartments, there is enough accommodation to triple the<br />
island’s population during the summer. For information about<br />
private accommodation, you can contact the island’s tourist<br />
offices at the Sobra ferry port, (tel. 74 60 25, tz.mljet@<br />
du.t-com.hr and in Polače tel. 74 41 86, tz-mjesta@<br />
du.htnet.hr).<br />
Hotels<br />
Camp Marina (tel. 74 50 71) is in Ropa, on the<br />
southern coast. The turnoff is about halfway between<br />
Babino Polje and Goveđari.<br />
Mungos campground (tel.74 53 00, 74 52 24) is<br />
on the main road just west of Babino Polje.<br />
Hotel Odisej Pomena b.b., tel. 36 21 11, fax 74 40<br />
42, info@hotelodisej.hr, www.hotelodisej.hr Located<br />
in Pomena, about an hour’s drive from the Sobra port,<br />
the Odisej has just about all you’ll need for a pleasant<br />
stay on Mljet. The rooms have air conditioning, but you if<br />
you get a room with a balcony and view over the harbour,<br />
you may just want to enjoy the fresh breeze. The hotel<br />
offers a restaurant, spa and exercise room, kiddie pool,<br />
and a pizzeria, hair salon and souvenir shop nearby. Both<br />
of the main vehicle rental, scuba and sailing companies<br />
post agents and their products out front. (Prices are per<br />
person and include breakfast. 157 rooms, 12 singles, 139<br />
doubles, 2 4-person apartments. There are four sets of<br />
family rooms, each of which consists of two rooms that<br />
can be joined.)<br />
Sounds of Mljet: A breeze brushing through pine boughs...<br />
the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a<br />
seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence.<br />
Mljet gets a growing<br />
share of tourists,<br />
but as one of the<br />
more remote and<br />
less developed<br />
islands, with limited<br />
fe r r y s e r v i c e ,<br />
it lacks the kind<br />
of mass tourism<br />
of much of th e<br />
Dalmatian coast<br />
and some other<br />
more accessible<br />
islands. This isn’t<br />
the place to come<br />
for late night bars,<br />
concerts, discos.<br />
One might hope it<br />
never will be.<br />
A n d ye t, Mlj e t<br />
isn’t that hard to<br />
reach, if you try. By<br />
catamaran, it’s as close as an hour from Dubrovnik. Ferries<br />
from Dubrovnik, are slower but perhaps more appropriate for<br />
a leisurely visit to the island (and making a stopover in Šipan)<br />
take a couple of pleasant hours. Another ferry connects the<br />
island with Prapratno (Pelješac peninsula).<br />
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this<br />
island has a stunning landscape waiting for you to discover.<br />
Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3 km wide and 37<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
km long, making it attractive to explore for a short or lengthier<br />
stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131 km<br />
of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover,<br />
so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct<br />
forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation,<br />
it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet<br />
offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous<br />
islets as well as the<br />
rich topography of the<br />
hills that rise steeply<br />
above the sea and<br />
plummet back into<br />
deep valleys sheltering<br />
ancient stone villages.<br />
The submarine world<br />
includes quite an array<br />
of fish and several<br />
types of corals. With<br />
fan tastic weath er,<br />
sailing, recreational<br />
spor ts, swimming,<br />
scuba diving, hiking<br />
and bicycle paths are<br />
only a fraction of the<br />
pleasures that you<br />
can enjoy here. The<br />
western end of Mljet<br />
has been protected<br />
as a National Park since 1960.<br />
The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of<br />
the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey)<br />
because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek<br />
settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising<br />
nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).<br />
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The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century<br />
BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and<br />
settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources.<br />
The best preserved sites are located above fort of Vodice<br />
near Babino Polje and on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko<br />
Jezero.<br />
The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century<br />
BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in<br />
35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western<br />
side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable<br />
in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are<br />
located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.<br />
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic<br />
coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th<br />
Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in<br />
the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and<br />
some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on<br />
Restaurants<br />
Konoba Triton Babino Polje, tel. 091 20 53 531<br />
Konoba Riva Sobra, tel. 74 52 22<br />
Konoba Laura Sobra, tel. 74 51 01<br />
Konoba Lupar Zadublje, tel.74 52 35<br />
Restaurant Melita St Mary islet, tel. 74 41 45<br />
Marijina Konoba Prožurska Luka, tel. 74 61 13<br />
Konoba Maran Okuklje, tel. 74 61 86, 098 931<br />
96 01<br />
Nine Pero Matana, Pomena, tel.74 40 37<br />
Konoba Lanterna Sobra, tel.74 50 80<br />
Konoba Stermasi Saplunara, tel.74 61 79<br />
Konoba Ogigija Polače, tel.74 40 95<br />
Konoba Stella Maris Polače, tel. 74 40 59<br />
Konoba Barba Prožurska Luka, tel.74 62 00<br />
Tourist information<br />
Tourist Board Mljet tel. 74 60 25, fax 74 60 25,<br />
tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Sobra office<br />
(around the side of the café at the ferry pier): January<br />
- June: 08:00 - 13:00, closed Sundays; June - October,<br />
08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:00 daily.<br />
Tourist Board Goveđari (office actually in Polače),<br />
tel. 74 41 86, fax 74 41 86. January - June, 08:00 -<br />
13:00, closed Saturdays & Sundays; June, September,<br />
08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, closed Sundays; July,<br />
August: 08:00 - 20:00 daily.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
the western end of the mountain for about another 300 years,<br />
until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ,<br />
between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including<br />
mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and<br />
arrows, were discovered in 1938.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1151, Desa of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet<br />
to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia.<br />
Their arrival saw the construction of a church and grand<br />
monastery (1177 - 1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero.<br />
Dubrovnik (latin: Ragusa) acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in<br />
1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410<br />
when Dubrovnik, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet.<br />
Dubrovnik held the island until the dissolution of the Republic<br />
under Napoleon in 1808.<br />
What to See:<br />
National Park Mljet (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište<br />
2, Goveđari, tel. 74 40 41, fax. 74 40 43, np-mljet@<br />
np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.<br />
Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The<br />
park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western<br />
end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline<br />
beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small<br />
Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače<br />
and Goveđari all lie within park boundaries. Of interest, this<br />
park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect<br />
the native eco-system in the Adriatic.<br />
The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo<br />
Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-meter-long<br />
channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko<br />
Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to<br />
power mills during the Middle Ages, switching direction every<br />
six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer path<br />
that circumnavigates the lakes, and other paths wind up and<br />
over the hills. It’s ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but scuba<br />
diving and motor boats are not permitted.<br />
The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers,<br />
steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and<br />
most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant<br />
of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used<br />
for farming or herding. Nevertheless, in a1917 fire it took out<br />
many of the deciduous forests.<br />
Tickets to the park cost 90 kn and can be purchased at<br />
booths in Polače and Pomena, and at the Hotel Odisej.<br />
Admission includes the ferry to St Marija Island in the middle<br />
of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the Benedictine monastery<br />
and a restaurant.<br />
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Marija<br />
(Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island<br />
of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a<br />
time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center.<br />
Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in<br />
autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and<br />
peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th<br />
Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque<br />
church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal<br />
lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture<br />
and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over<br />
the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs<br />
of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance<br />
features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church<br />
portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure<br />
of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added<br />
during the 16th and 17th centuries. <strong>In</strong> 1809, during the rule<br />
of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian<br />
Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until<br />
1941. <strong>In</strong> 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given<br />
back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the<br />
church’s inauguration.<br />
The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a<br />
restaurant in the monastery cellars, the buildings are<br />
unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk<br />
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past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and<br />
imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding in<br />
the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown.<br />
Polače The village is named after the ruin of a significant<br />
Roman palace and fortifications – one tower is 20m high<br />
-- built between the 2nd and 5th century. Second in size to<br />
the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road<br />
to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists<br />
have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas) west of<br />
the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s<br />
economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey,<br />
meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will<br />
take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right<br />
and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort.<br />
A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the<br />
highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views<br />
over the lakes and the Adriatic.<br />
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National<br />
Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after<br />
World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among<br />
charming thick alpine woodlands and working in agriculture,<br />
fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small<br />
Bays & Beaches<br />
Just by walking down many roads and hidden paths, you<br />
will arrive at some lovely swimming spots, although you<br />
may also end up at a rocky cliff. Most beaches aren’t<br />
crowded, so there’s plenty of privacy for you to enjoy. <strong>In</strong><br />
the springtime, when you can have them to yourself, it<br />
would be wonderful to get a jump on your tan, if only the<br />
authorities were quicker to clear away the debris that<br />
has washed ashore.<br />
To save you time, here are a few suggestions:<br />
Saplunara Befitting its name, Saplunara, perhaps a<br />
variant of the Latin “sabulum,” is one of the few sandy<br />
beaches on the island. Actually, Saplunara, consists of<br />
two beaches in one cove. (www.saplunara.com). A small<br />
snack bar was under construction in the spring (see St<br />
Paul and the Mongooses).<br />
Blace This beautiful and popular beach is on a very<br />
shallow cove and might best suit families with small<br />
children or, because of its seclusion, naturists. A new<br />
road from Saplunara makes Blace easier to reach – for<br />
you and everyone else.<br />
Sutmiholjska beach can be reached via roads from<br />
Babino Polje. Sutmiholjska’s route is signposted, ending<br />
in a cove with a few vacation houses and fishing boats.<br />
You can always take a dip at the beach next to the hotel<br />
Odisej, in the Pomena harbour. There’s a small kiddie pool<br />
there for the little ones. You can also swim in Veliko and<br />
Malo Jezero, and at a beach in Soline.<br />
yachts, which can pull up to the pier and enjoy the hotel’s<br />
amenities.<br />
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century<br />
when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino<br />
Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to<br />
work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).<br />
Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically<br />
interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,<br />
serenity and lush vegetation.<br />
Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located<br />
on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It<br />
offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a<br />
number of private rentals here, too.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with<br />
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative center<br />
of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road<br />
and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje<br />
is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive<br />
trees and vineyards, and the 514m Veliki Grad, the highest<br />
hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of<br />
churches: St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George,<br />
St Blaise- St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of<br />
Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches<br />
of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in<br />
the 11th Century. You can reach the church, and neighbouring<br />
St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town.<br />
When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp<br />
right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On<br />
the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey<br />
Renaissance manor of the Dubrovnik governor of the island.<br />
Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius,<br />
the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the<br />
sotnica, a Renaissance-era government building in whose<br />
courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments.<br />
Ulysses’ Cave is situated under the village of Babino Polje. It’s<br />
a large egg shaped cave accessed by a 30 meter tunnel used<br />
as a harbour by local fishermen. There are two entrances to<br />
the cave: one from the seaside and the other one from the<br />
hill. Trough time it’s believed that Ulysses found his shelter<br />
here after surviving a shipwreck. That’s where the cave’s<br />
name comes from. According to Homer, the King of Itaka<br />
survived a shipwreck on his way back home from the Trojan<br />
war. The event took place near the island of Ogigia (interesting<br />
thing is that there’s an rocky island in front of the cave called<br />
Ogiran!). Ulysses swam into the cave for shelter. There, nymph<br />
Calypso, daughter of Poseidon, God of the sea, waited for<br />
him. Amazed by the beauty of nature and in love with nymph<br />
Calypso, Ulysses stayed on the island for 7 years.<br />
Prožura This medieval village was used by Dubrovnik nobles<br />
who – a bit like yourself – were looking for a relaxing getaway.<br />
Perched on a hill over an intermittent lake (blatina) and the<br />
sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three<br />
beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church<br />
of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the<br />
Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s<br />
Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque<br />
bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477<br />
by the Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed<br />
from the estate in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured<br />
representations of St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik),<br />
St Martin (the patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the<br />
patron saint of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived<br />
and worked in a small monastery near the church. It’s partly<br />
ruined now; along with the tower, it has been adapted for<br />
reuse as a stable and storage. The Church of St Martin and<br />
village graveyard is situated on a bluff overlooking the village<br />
on one side and the island road and Mljet Channel on the other.<br />
St Martin’s day is celebrated on November 11 with a mass<br />
in the church. The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on<br />
another small hill above the village. Costumed celebrations<br />
of St Rocco (who was believed to have saved the village from<br />
the plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was<br />
the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston<br />
from 1635 – 1652.<br />
Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš<br />
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish<br />
church of St Anton rests on the foundation of an older church<br />
and features Gothic architectural elements.<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
Korita is a nerby village, named after the stone basins filled<br />
with water on the rainy days from the small spring. There is<br />
a small church from the 16th century of St. Eliah, the patron<br />
saint of the village, 16th century church of St. Vitus and a<br />
14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill with mix of Gothic<br />
and Renaissance elements, St Mary demonstrates features<br />
typical of the island’s churches. Some of the manor houses<br />
have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own<br />
17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing.<br />
Sports & Activites: A range of sporting activities are<br />
available on Mljet, along with plenty of hiking and cycling trails<br />
for the less adventurous; if your hiking stick didn’t fit in your<br />
suitcase, you can rent one from the Hotel Odisej.<br />
The best way to see every hill and valley and secluded patch of<br />
waterfront rock or sand is on foot. Bikes are a little quicker for<br />
those who are in better shape, but scooters, quads or car will<br />
get you quicker from one end of the 50-kilometer island road<br />
to the other. Watch your speed, however. Some of the best<br />
views on the island are from narrow, curvy roads unblemished<br />
by those pesky (but lifesaving) guardrails. If you didn’t bring<br />
your own vehicle, two agencies can provide you with wheels.<br />
They can pick up and deliver cars anywhere on the island.<br />
Both agencies only offer standard-shift cars.<br />
Mini Brum Sobra, Polače and Pomena, tel. 74 52 60,<br />
74 50 84, 098 28 55 66, mini.brum@du.htnet.hr, www.<br />
mljet.hr. Offers cars (some with very unusual detailing),<br />
buggies and scooters. Open 09:00-19.00.<br />
Radulj Tours Pomena, N.P. Mljet, tel. 098 42 80 74, 098<br />
42 80 74. Offers cars, scooters, ATVs, bikes, canoes, kayaks<br />
and paddle boats. Open 09:00 – 19:00.<br />
Prožura Travel Agency, Prožua 36, Maranovići, tel.<br />
098 60 88 61, prozura@du.t-com.hr, island.mljet@<br />
yahoo.com, www.island-mljet.com. Rents sailboats and<br />
motorboats, also provides marina and storage services.<br />
Adriatic Kayak Tours, tel. 31 27 70, 091 722 04 13,<br />
info@adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.<br />
com or Aquatica Mljet, tel. 098 47 99 16, info@aquaticamljet.hr.<br />
Mljet is naturally beautiful below and above the<br />
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waves. And traces of its history – especially its history of<br />
piracy, which incurred the wrath of Rome – can also be found<br />
below the waves. More than 40 Roman wrecks lie in the<br />
Pelješac Channel, plus ships that sank as recently as World<br />
War II. Aquatica Mljet arranges scuba trips to a variety of dive<br />
sites. For lone divers, beware as it’s forbidden to go diving in<br />
the Veliko and Malo Jezero and the Bay of Soline, although<br />
diving is permitted 100m from the islands of Glavat, Borovac,<br />
Crna Seka, Seka od Liskanja, Pomeštak and Galicjia. Fishing<br />
is basically permitted everywhere except in the Veliko and<br />
Malo jezero. The Aquatica Mljet company also offers water<br />
skiing, banana rides (behind a speedboat), longer excursions<br />
via speedboat to Split, Dubrovnik and other islands as well<br />
as renting bicycles and scooters. Sailing (Ana Sailing) offers<br />
sailing lessons during the summer. For more information, ask<br />
at the registration desk of Hotel Odisej.<br />
Day Trips Half- and full-day tours leave periodically from Hotel<br />
Odisej during the summer season. Ask at the registration<br />
desk for more information.<br />
C a v t a t - A n c i e n t<br />
Epidaurum T h e<br />
approach to this little<br />
gem of a Mediterranean<br />
town is one of the most<br />
breathtaking things about<br />
it, as the campaniles of<br />
its churches poke their<br />
way into view above a<br />
canopy of lush trees. But<br />
that’s not all – this was<br />
the ancient settlement<br />
of Epidaurum wh ose<br />
inhabitants populated<br />
Dubrovnik. A pleasant<br />
promenade fringes the<br />
rambling old streets,<br />
e d ge d b y c a f é s , a<br />
couple of good places<br />
to drink, a selection of<br />
good restaurants and<br />
a h an d ful of ra th er<br />
lovely small hotels. The<br />
promenade leads to the<br />
pleasant town beach, a<br />
park and a cemetery with<br />
an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its<br />
centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels<br />
which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches<br />
and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly<br />
wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel<br />
complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a<br />
traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konvale region,<br />
famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on<br />
your doorstep.<br />
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house, where<br />
one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac<br />
(1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the<br />
interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with<br />
colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes.<br />
Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his<br />
works, they have been restored with some success, and<br />
the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings<br />
and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s<br />
day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of<br />
emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given<br />
over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature<br />
contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique<br />
mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the<br />
back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the<br />
border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the<br />
airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on<br />
Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and<br />
dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk<br />
costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland<br />
and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce<br />
real estate agents to tears. <strong>In</strong> the central valley, you’ll find<br />
traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious<br />
home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes<br />
served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume<br />
(see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you<br />
can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond<br />
orchards in bloom.<br />
The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries<br />
the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point<br />
is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village<br />
cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the<br />
Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering<br />
in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked<br />
hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as<br />
part of the deal.<br />
The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that<br />
it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few<br />
settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals<br />
looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is<br />
a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus,<br />
and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical<br />
chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet<br />
fishing village in a pretty cove.<br />
The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia<br />
and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have<br />
views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain<br />
ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone,<br />
so don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used<br />
as a realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts<br />
will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an<br />
Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed<br />
monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones<br />
of prisoners who died of hunger – no mention is made of this<br />
in the pamphlet. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo,<br />
an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you<br />
can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.<br />
Agrotourism<br />
Jakanov dvor Uskoplje, Konavle, tel. 77 36 00/<br />
091 177 36 00, fax 77 36 01, jakanov_dvor@net.<br />
hr, www.jakanov-dvor.hr. This magnificent, rambling<br />
old country home not far from Čilipi has a super terrace<br />
with wide open views of the Konavle countryside, and<br />
offers meat cooked on the spit or under an iron bell<br />
with live charcoal. A real treat. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
ALBC<br />
Konoba Vinica - Monković family Pridvorje,<br />
Ljuta, tel. 79 12 44/ 098 34 54 59, fax 79 10 54,<br />
monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica.<br />
com. Another excellent option in the Konavle region south<br />
of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run<br />
the place may show you their collection of folk costumes<br />
as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, baked<br />
meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija<br />
would go down a treat too… QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
Closed Mon. (50-110kn). PALGB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Neretva river delta - Orange groves and water life If<br />
you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to<br />
see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk.<br />
Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored,<br />
inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with<br />
good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate<br />
gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern<br />
fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.<br />
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and<br />
impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in<br />
Herzegovina. <strong>In</strong> Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the<br />
sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking<br />
work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes<br />
called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you<br />
can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins,<br />
local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s<br />
Venice, as the life of<br />
the people is closely<br />
tied up with boats,<br />
used for transporting<br />
pretty much everything<br />
around here. The region<br />
has its own types of<br />
wooden boat; a smaller<br />
kind called a trupa, and<br />
a larger one called a<br />
lađa. Although these<br />
traditional boats largely<br />
died out, in recent years<br />
an annual race which<br />
a t tracts competin g<br />
teams from around<br />
the world looks set to<br />
revive the picturesque<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction<br />
which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation<br />
a challenge! More curious still is the water life of the valley.<br />
The traditional dishes of the area are often centred around<br />
two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made<br />
into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the<br />
popular restaurant at Villa Metković at the town of the same<br />
name, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris<br />
are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly<br />
storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.<br />
Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from<br />
the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting<br />
freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully<br />
clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped<br />
that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near<br />
future.<br />
Pelješac - Oysters and wine The Pelješac peninsula is so<br />
tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique<br />
character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is<br />
the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon<br />
dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality<br />
oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best<br />
cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled<br />
by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including<br />
forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous<br />
countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These<br />
walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable<br />
salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often<br />
called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout<br />
and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt<br />
for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday<br />
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and<br />
victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.<br />
Summer 2008<br />
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dubrovnik neretva county<br />
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular<br />
conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali<br />
grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of<br />
Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is<br />
an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the<br />
first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).<br />
It’ll cost you about 10 Euro a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac<br />
experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is<br />
another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”,<br />
while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.<br />
On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched<br />
by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep<br />
slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for<br />
pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing<br />
wind makes this a favourite spot for windsurfers, especially at<br />
Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting<br />
its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic<br />
stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects<br />
Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet -<br />
ideal for island hopping.<br />
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take<br />
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week will<br />
hardly be long enough.<br />
Summer camp of a different kind... The name Dubrovnik<br />
evokes images of Renaissance buildings with ancient palaces<br />
surrounded by the radiant blue waters of the Adriatic Sea.<br />
Well amidst all that beauty there is another side to the city<br />
that offers tourists a different experience, an experience that<br />
connects the present to the city’s very own past. It all has to<br />
do with the natural resource ‘salt’, yes that very ingredient<br />
that most cooks simply cannot live without. Let us turn back<br />
the clock for a moment to fill you in on some history.<br />
The Republic of Dubrovnik was very well off and part of its<br />
prosperity came from the trading of salt. Obtaining salt<br />
from sea water and exporting it to other regions brought<br />
economic wealth to its aristocrats. The region also included<br />
the small coastal town of ‘Ston’, whose entire working<br />
population and surroundings were mobilised for extracting<br />
and panning salt.<br />
Believe it or not, over hundreds of years the need for salt<br />
intensified causing competitors such as the Venetians<br />
and Turks to have open armed clashes with Dubrovnik<br />
merchants.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Trsteno - Balm for the soul If you’re on the edge of your<br />
nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your<br />
soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in<br />
a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally<br />
overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum –<br />
of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The<br />
centrepiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman<br />
Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth<br />
into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest<br />
abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could<br />
soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant<br />
Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts<br />
here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and<br />
aided by local sea captains who came home from their<br />
travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries,<br />
many people have invested their energy and soul into these<br />
gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates<br />
– don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone<br />
aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once<br />
shared by the local community. A little path leads from the<br />
villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offering<br />
a view of the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour<br />
on the lush, island-strewn Mediterranean. <strong>In</strong> this part of the<br />
garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a<br />
palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The<br />
arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out<br />
in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a<br />
chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer<br />
garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern<br />
sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus<br />
a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered<br />
quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which<br />
broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and<br />
it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall<br />
trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy<br />
the harmony of man and nature.<br />
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with<br />
a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic<br />
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a<br />
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a<br />
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.<br />
Župa dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes<br />
alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest<br />
beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white<br />
pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno<br />
was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here<br />
is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday<br />
brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills<br />
that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down<br />
the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing<br />
the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing”<br />
or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer<br />
in question.<br />
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being<br />
that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army<br />
during the early 90s. Then the hotels were used for housing<br />
refugees, as was the case with so many in Croatia, and<br />
became unusable. The village of Kupari is all but devastated,<br />
as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the<br />
local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant<br />
and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and<br />
pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on<br />
and things will get better.<br />
We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons.<br />
The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty<br />
of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices<br />
are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes<br />
away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget<br />
and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.<br />
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find<br />
necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the<br />
post office and a large supermarket. There’s also a campsite<br />
and a new night bar, Porto, which has become the venue of<br />
choice for Dubrovnik’s party animals on a Friday night. Mlini’s<br />
waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a<br />
picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill<br />
and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the<br />
beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little<br />
villas nestled in leafy shade.<br />
Linđo<br />
The folk tradition is very much connected with music and<br />
dance. During the Dubrovnik Summer Festival you will<br />
surely have the chance to see Linđo, Dubrovnik’s foremost<br />
folk troupe, going strong since 1964. The region’s<br />
folk music is centred around a one-stringed instrument<br />
called a Ljerica. Legend has it that one Niko Lale was an<br />
especially talented player even though one of his fingers<br />
was broken. One day, he had enough of working in the<br />
fields and screamed “No more farming for me!” – oddly,<br />
in perfect English. From then on he was a full time party<br />
animal and became known as Linđo.<br />
dubrovnik neretva county<br />
The folk tradition<br />
The people of Dubrovnik and the surrounding regions<br />
proudly maintain their folk tradition, which you can still<br />
see at festivals, folklore performances, and processions<br />
on feast days; in museums and sometimes even on your<br />
waiter in rural restaurants. Every region, and in some<br />
cases every settlement had its own style of folk attire,<br />
which often showed the social status of the wearer. So,<br />
for example, in Konavle, where the tradition is perhaps<br />
strongest to this day, unmarried girls wore red pillbox hats<br />
decorated with gold braid, while married women wore<br />
stiffly starched headscarves shaped like horns, to scare<br />
their menfolk into submission, we presume.<br />
The costumes, mainly in white, red and black fabrics,<br />
were decorated with embroidery, particularly on decorative<br />
fabric breastplates with gold silk tassels on women,<br />
and waistcoats and cummerbunds on men. Silk was<br />
produced and coloured at home. On special occasions,<br />
people wore fine velvets and silks richly embroidered with<br />
gold thread, a style influenced by Dubrovnik’s excellent<br />
trading links with the nearby Ottoman Empire. Luxurious<br />
clothes indicated the wealth of the owner, but rich folk<br />
lent fine clothes to poorer neighbours to ensure a good<br />
celebration.<br />
Jewellery has for centuries been a way for women in<br />
particular to invest their wealth. Dubrovnik at its zenith,<br />
had many goldsmiths and silversmiths who, in addition<br />
to adorning the city’s churches and palaces also made<br />
jewellery, an integral part of folk costume. You can still buy<br />
traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, large hoops<br />
or drop earrings adorned with baubles. If you’d like to<br />
take home an original Dubrovnik souvenir, you can also<br />
find tiny backstreet workshops where women produce<br />
tablecloths, bags, purses, pictures, slippers and more<br />
embellished with traditional embroidery.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Dubrovnik there are several women’s’ groups who<br />
engage in reviving traditional crafts such as folk dress,<br />
which originally arose to lift the spirits of victims of war.<br />
One such group is Deša, who have their centre at Lazareti.<br />
They are currently engaged in a project to rescue the<br />
traditional colourful dress of Mljet island from oblivion.<br />
On your travels around the region, you can meet many<br />
more facets of folk culture. If you’re on Korčula island,<br />
you may meet a procession of drummers in medieval<br />
costume on their way to a performance of the traditional<br />
Moreška sword dance (performed across the region in<br />
high summer). And if you’re lucky enough to be on distant<br />
Lastovo in the two days before Ash Wednesday, you’ll see<br />
the Poklad festival, eagerly awaited every year by the islanders,<br />
and a riot of fun, celebrating the salvation of the<br />
island from attack by Catalan pirates in 1483. The men<br />
dress in scarlet traditional costumes with embroidered<br />
sashes and hats decked with more flowers than Ladies<br />
Day at Ascot – a truly unique experience!<br />
Summer 2008<br />
59
60<br />
street register<br />
A. Barca H-3<br />
A. Bošković J-4<br />
A. Hallera I-4<br />
A. Hebranga I-2<br />
A. Kazali H-3<br />
A. Mihanovića J-4<br />
A. Šenoe H-3<br />
A.G. Matoša I-3<br />
A.T. Mimare L-4<br />
Androvićeva C-4<br />
Antuninska C-2<br />
Aquarium E-3<br />
Arhiv D-2<br />
Asimon E-1<br />
B. Bušića M-5<br />
Bernarda Shawa K-4<br />
Babin Kuk G-2<br />
Bandureva D-4<br />
Banjska J-4<br />
Batahovina H-1<br />
Batala I-3<br />
Biokovska H-2<br />
Bokar A-3<br />
Bokeljska H-1/2<br />
Boninovo J-4<br />
Bosanka M-5<br />
Boškovićeva C-2<br />
Božatska J-3<br />
Braće Andrijića D-4<br />
Branitelja Dubrovnika K-4 / I-3<br />
(ex. Dr. A. Starčevića)<br />
Brdasta K-4<br />
Brgatska L-4<br />
Brsalje A-2<br />
Brsečinska I-3<br />
Bunićeva poljana C-3<br />
Buža D-1<br />
Cavtatska L-4<br />
Celestina Medovića B-2<br />
Crijevićeva C-4<br />
Cvijete Zuzorić C-3<br />
Čubranovićeva B-2<br />
Ćilipska J-3<br />
Ćira Carića H-2<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
D. Pulića A-1<br />
Dalmatinska H/I-3<br />
Dante Allghieria K-5<br />
Dinka Ranjine C-3<br />
Dolska I-2<br />
Dr. A. Šercera H-3<br />
Dr. V. Mačeka I-4<br />
Dračasta K-4<br />
Dropčeva C-2<br />
Državna cesta D-8<br />
Dubravkina G-2<br />
Dunavska G-3<br />
Džamija C-3<br />
Đorđićeva B-2<br />
Đura Baljevića D-4<br />
Đura Basaričeka I-2<br />
E. Kumičića H-2<br />
F. Kolumbića H-2<br />
F. Prešerna J-3<br />
F. Supila M-5 / L-5<br />
Ferićeva B-3<br />
Flore Jakšić G-2<br />
G. Rajčevića I-4<br />
Garište B-2<br />
Getaldićeva B-2<br />
Gorica Sv. Vlaha I-4<br />
Gornji kono J-3/K-4<br />
Gradac K-5<br />
Gradićeva D-4<br />
Grbava C-4<br />
Grebenska H-3<br />
Grudska L-4<br />
Gruška obala H-1<br />
Gundulićeva poljana C/D -3<br />
Hanibala Lucića C-1<br />
Hladnica H-3<br />
Hliđina B-3<br />
Hodiljska J-3<br />
Hvarska L-5<br />
I. Matijaševića J-4<br />
I. Račića M-5<br />
I. Vojnovića I-4<br />
I. Zajca H-2<br />
Ilije Sarake D-4<br />
Imotska I-2<br />
Ispod Minčete B-1<br />
Ispod mira D-4<br />
Ispod Petke G-3<br />
Istarska K-4<br />
Iva Dulčića F-1 / F-2 / F-4 / G-3 /<br />
H-3<br />
Ivana Zajca G-1<br />
Ivanska G-3<br />
Iza Grada B-1<br />
Između ribnjaka H-2<br />
Između tri crkve J-4<br />
Između vrta A-1<br />
Između polača C-2<br />
Izvijačica A-1<br />
J. Berse H-3<br />
J. Pupačića H-3<br />
Jakljanska H/I-1<br />
Janjinska H-3<br />
Josipa Kosora I-4<br />
Kantafig H-1<br />
Kardinala Stepinca F-2<br />
Kaznačićeva C-3<br />
Kliševska G-2<br />
Kneza Domagoja H-2<br />
Kneza Branimira I-3<br />
Kneza Damjana Jude E-3<br />
Kneza Hrvaša C-4<br />
Knežev dvor D-3<br />
Koločepska L-5<br />
Komajska H-3<br />
Komolačka H-2<br />
Konavoska M-5<br />
Korčulanska I-4<br />
Koritska I-1<br />
Kotorska I-4<br />
Kovačka D-2<br />
Kralja Tomislava H-3<br />
Kunićeva C-2<br />
Kunska I-2<br />
L. Matačića I-2<br />
L. Rogovskog H-3<br />
Lapad H-3<br />
Lapadska obala H-2<br />
Lazarina M-5<br />
Liechtensteinov put G-4<br />
Lokrum L-6<br />
Lokrumska L-4<br />
Lopudska I-2<br />
Lovrijenac K-5<br />
Lovrina M-5<br />
Lučarica D-3<br />
Luka Dubrovnik I-2<br />
Luka Sorkočević G-3<br />
Ljubuška I-1<br />
M. Blažića K-5<br />
M. Budaka L-4<br />
M. Dizdara I-2<br />
M. Gjaje J-3<br />
M. Gupca L-4<br />
M. Hamzića I/J-4<br />
M. Jarnovića H-3<br />
M. Mrnarevića I-4<br />
M. Vodopića G/H-3<br />
Mala Petka G-3<br />
Mandaljenska G-3<br />
Marina Držića D-3<br />
Marka Marojice I-3<br />
Marojice Kaboge C-3<br />
Masarykov put F-3 / G-3<br />
Metohijska I-2<br />
Miha Pracata C-2<br />
Minčeta B/C-1<br />
Mljetska I-2<br />
Mokoška J-2<br />
Moluntska H-2<br />
Montovjerna I-3<br />
Mosorska H-2<br />
Most Dubrovnik H-1<br />
Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />
N. Ljubičića I-2<br />
N. Nodila J-4<br />
Na Andriji B-3<br />
Na Mihajlu H-3<br />
Na Ponti D-2<br />
Nalješkovićeva C-2<br />
Napice M-5<br />
Neumska I-2<br />
Nikole Božidarevića B/C-3<br />
Nikole Gučetića C-3<br />
Nikole Tesle I-3<br />
Nuncijata I-1<br />
Obala S. Radića I-2/3<br />
Obala pape Ivana Pavla II H-1<br />
Obodska L-4<br />
Obuljenska J-4<br />
Od Batale H-3<br />
Od borova H-3<br />
Od čempresa J/K-4<br />
Od Danača K-5<br />
Od Domina B-3<br />
Od gaja J-4<br />
Od Gale J-3/4<br />
Od Greba Žudioskih L-4<br />
Od Gradca K-4/5<br />
Od Hladnice H/I-4<br />
Od Kaštela B-4<br />
Od Kolorine K-5<br />
Od Margarite C-4<br />
Od maslinate M-5<br />
Od Montovjerne I-3/4<br />
Od Nuncijate I-1/2<br />
Od polača C-2<br />
Od puča C-3 / B-3<br />
Od pustijerne D-4<br />
Od Rupa B-3<br />
Od Sigurate B-2<br />
Od Srđa L-4<br />
Od Sv. Mihajla H-3<br />
Od škara I-2<br />
Od šorte B-3<br />
Od Tabakarije K-5<br />
Oraška H-2<br />
P. Beatovića<br />
P. Budmani K-4<br />
P. Čingrije J-4<br />
P. Krešimira IV L-5<br />
P. Preradovića H-3<br />
Padre Perice I-2<br />
Palmotićeva C-2<br />
Paska Baburice H-3<br />
Pećarica C-3<br />
Peline C-1<br />
Pelješka L-4<br />
Petilovrijenci C-2<br />
Petra Svačića G-2<br />
Pile K-4<br />
Pionirska I-2<br />
Placa C-2 / D-2<br />
Placa – Stradun C-2<br />
Platska K-4/5<br />
Ploče E-1<br />
Plovani skalini C-1<br />
Pobijana D-4<br />
Pobreška I-1<br />
Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />
Poljana Marina Držića D-3<br />
Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2<br />
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4<br />
Pomoraca H-1<br />
Pomorski muzej E-4<br />
Porat E-3<br />
Porporela E-3/4<br />
Posat E-2<br />
Postranjska J-3<br />
Pred Dvorom D-3<br />
Prelazna B-3<br />
Pridvorska J-4<br />
Prijeko B-2/3 / C-2<br />
Primorska H-2<br />
Pomoraca H-1<br />
Privežna K-4<br />
Puljizeva B-3<br />
Put od Bosanke L-4<br />
Put Republike I-3<br />
Restićeva D-4<br />
Revelin E-1<br />
Riječka H-2<br />
Ribarnica D-2<br />
Roka Mišetića H/G-4<br />
S.S. Kranjčevića J-3<br />
Savska G-3<br />
Sinjska J-3<br />
Slanska G-2<br />
Solinska J-3/4<br />
Solitudo G-1<br />
Sorkočević<br />
Sponza D-2<br />
Srebrenska J-3<br />
Srednji kono K-4/5<br />
Stayeva E-4<br />
Stonska G-2<br />
Strossmayerova C-3<br />
Stulina D-4<br />
Stradun B-2<br />
Sunčana M-5<br />
Sustjepanska I-2<br />
Sv. Barbara C-1<br />
Sv. Đurđa A-2 / K-5<br />
street register<br />
Sv. Ivan E-3<br />
Sv. Jakov D-1<br />
Sv. Križa I-2<br />
Sv. Lucija C-1<br />
Sv. Luka E-2<br />
Sv. Petar B-4<br />
Sv. Spasitelj E-4<br />
Sv. Stjepan D-4<br />
Sv. Šimuna B-4<br />
Sv. Vid C-1<br />
Sv. Vlaha D-3<br />
Sv. Marije B-3<br />
Sv.Dominika D-2<br />
Sv. Josipa B-3<br />
Sv.Nikole H/I-1<br />
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G-2<br />
Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2<br />
Šibenska G-2<br />
Šipanska H/I-1<br />
Šipčine J-3<br />
Široka C-2<br />
Tivatska J-3<br />
Tmušasta C-3<br />
Topolska J-3<br />
Trg oružja E-2<br />
Trnovička J-3<br />
Trogirska<br />
Trpanjska H-1<br />
Trstenska H-2<br />
U pilama K-5<br />
Udarnička J-3<br />
Uvala Gruž H-1/2<br />
Uvala Sumartin F-3<br />
Uz Giman H-2<br />
Uz Glavicu H-3<br />
Uz Jezuite C-4/3<br />
Uz mline K-4<br />
Uz posat B-1<br />
Uz tabor M-5<br />
Vladimira Nazora J-4<br />
Vatroslava Lisinskog G-1<br />
Velebitska G-2<br />
Velika Petka G-3<br />
Vetranićeva C-2<br />
Vicina K-4<br />
Viška J-3<br />
Vlaha Paljetka I-1<br />
Vukovarska I-3<br />
Za kapelicom K-4<br />
Za Kamenom E-4<br />
Za Rokom B-3<br />
Za rupama B-3<br />
Zadarska G-2<br />
Zagrebačka K-4 / M-5<br />
Zamanjina C-2<br />
Zatonska H-2<br />
Zlatarićeva B-2<br />
Zlatarska D-2<br />
Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-4<br />
Zvijezdićeva B-4/3<br />
Željezničarska H/I-1<br />
Žudioska D-2<br />
Žuljanska I-3<br />
Župska M-5<br />
Summer 2008<br />
61
Legend<br />
church main main streets<br />
streets<br />
museum museum museum other other streets<br />
streets<br />
hospital hospital hospital pedestrian pedestrian streets<br />
streets<br />
post post post office park<br />
park<br />
hotel hotel hotel<br />
parking<br />
petrol station station station