DUBROVNIK - In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
DUBROVNIK
N°3 - free copy
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2008
Ancient charm
A city of culture to enchant
your heart.

Contents
Introducing Dubrovnik 7
What’s it all about?
Arriving in Dubrovnik 8
Where the action is
Glossary 9
Don’t get caught with your trousers down
Culture & Events 10
Renaissance art to island reggae
Where to stay 11
Home sweet home
Restaurants 19
Enjoy the riches
Cafés 24
Where to watch the world go by
Nightlife 25
Join the beautiful people
What to see 27
Those sights explained
Sport 33
The big blue
contents
Mail & Phones 34
“I just called to say I luuuurve you…”
Getting around 35
An explorer’s bible
Shopping 44
Take a little piece of my heart
Business Directory 46
Banks and stuff
Lifestyle Directory 48
Important numbers
Dubrovnik Neretva County 49
Out and about around the city
Maps & Index
Street index 60
City centre map 62
City map 64
County map 66
Country map 67
Summer 2008
5

6
foreWord
The stones of Dubrovnik tell a 13-century-long tale
of survival. The Roman city of Ragusa developed
into a city-state encompassing the coast as far
south as the Bay of Kotor, the Peljesac Peninsula
and nearby islands including Mljet and Lastovo. On
the walls of Korčula Town, antique cannons still aim
across a narrow channel at the village of Orebić, on
Peljesac. That’s because Korčula was an outpost of
Dubrovnik’s rival, the Republic of Venice.
Legend has it that St. Blaise appeared in a vision
in 971 to warn Dubrovnik of an impending Venetian
invasion. He’s been revered here ever since. But it’s
appropriate that he’s the saint who is celebrated with
the blessing of throats. After all, Dubrovnik remained
independent and prosperous for more than a millennium
on its citizens’ powers of negotiation.
Now Dubrovnik has thrown open its gates to an annual
invasion of thousands of visitors who come to
walk its ancient streets, to see the wealth the city
amassed through centuries of trade, and to stand on
its mighty walls and gaze across the crystalline seas.
We’ll tell you all you need to know to enjoy your visit to
Dubrovnik and the entire region it once ruled.
Cover story
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Draškovićeva 66
Zagreb, Croatia
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1846-0852
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb
Cover Dubrovnik-Neretva County
Tourist Board
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
A breathtaking view
through the fortress of St
John; the first building of
the city which is today a
part of the fortress was
built in the 14th century.
That same fortress
was strengthened and
further widened in the
16th century and it is still
preserved in its original
shape. Its purpose was to
defend the city harbour as
it was considered to be the
most important defence
fortress of the city.
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson,
Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić,
Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen, Tocher
Mitchell
Researcher Anita Piplović, Kristina
Kovač
Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan
Karabogdan
Photos Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
team, Dubrovnik-Neretva County
Tourist Board
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Višnja Arambašić
Sales & Circulation Manager
Kristijan Vukičević
Krešimir Grgić
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Account Manager Mirna Cindrić
Europe In Your Pocket
Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are
falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward
march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade
and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender,
and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in
the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana,
Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and
you have a full set.
Elsewhere arround the Pocket Empire there are
new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia),
Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s
top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own
mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your
Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities
this summer.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Dubrovnik
In Your Pocket. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud
of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort,
however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how
many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons
for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a
way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are
known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty
or boastful pride.
Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls
and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people
of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar
and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the
main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called,
was an island, offering some protection from attack, but,
of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful
citizens their shelter.
That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were
under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades,
Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.
But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the
nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became
a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining
independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and,
indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.
The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other
areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of
Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that
introducing dubrovnik
www.inyourpocket.com
it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And
during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture
flourished, leading to a love for harmony in ones surroundings,
a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped
the language of Croatian that we can hear today.
This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town,
this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can
be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its
annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this
year held for the 57th time. It can also be heard – this is a
city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of
the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.
Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also
manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for
example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And
alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally
came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see
the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to
the sides of buses.
It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny
Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might
lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when
the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his
armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense
of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results,
happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved
culture that’s a joy to uncover.
Summer 2008
7

8 arriving in dubrovnik
Tourist information
Tourist Board Dubrovnik C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić
1/II, tel. 32 38 87, fax 32 37 25, e-mail: info@
tzdubrovnik.hr
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board
C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1/1, tel. 32 49 99, fax 32 42 24,
info@visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr
Association of Tourist Guides Dubrovnik C/D/3,
Gundulićeva poljana 9, Tel. 32 36 08, fax 32 47 33,
vodici.dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr. QOpen: Mon-Fri
10:00 – 12:00.
By plane
Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s
small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant and café,
plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post office
and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall.
Parking costs 5kn per hour and 30kn per day. The pay
machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts
credit cards. Getting to town: Most airlines organise buses
to meet their flights - please check with your operator. A one
way ticket to town costs 35kn. If your cheapskate airline
has neglected you in this way, you’ll be reduced to forking
out for a taxi - expect to pay 200kn (30EUR) to get to the
city centre.
By boat
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries old
harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, or the
commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and
quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.
Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the
world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers.
Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good
accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there.
There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and
loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks
onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels
are located. To get to the centre of town, hop on an orange
bus number 1A, 1B or 8. A ticket for a single trip costs 10kn
if you buy it in a news kiosk, 12kn if you buy it on board. You
must stamp your ticket on entry.
By car
For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik.
Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re
safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware
that during weekends approaching August, all roads become
catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway
toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach
Dubrovnik, you can either travel: Via Split: From Split,
follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the
coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible bottleneck). Just
south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to
Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card
handy. Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH”
from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the
roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes,
Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably
quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair
city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way
system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have
a map handy! Check out the Croatian Automobile Club
website at www.hak.hr for traffic information, or keep an
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
By coach
The city has a brand spanking new coach station close to the
Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry
terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open
05:30-22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing
money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs
and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost
3kn. Left luggage: the garderoba works 0-24, 10kn per
day. Public phones are on the platform. Shops and cafes:
there is a news kiosk, plus a large Konzum supermarket next
door (open 0-24). Getting to town: buses to town stop right
outside the station, take lines 1A or 1B. Tickets cost 10kn
from the driver. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 970.
By train
Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve
Dubrovnik, although it is possible to travel to Ploče and
head south by bus.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460
Dubrovnik Neretva County: 122.870
Dubrovnik (April 2001): 30.436
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border
with Italy.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction
for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named
some of its most pure!
Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County
measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea.
Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian
coast, 47 of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time
Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
ear open for traffic news in English on the radio. www.inyourpocket.com
Take a hike!
In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around
the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres.
After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula,
or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala
Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount
Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb with no shade, but with the
prospect of the city laid out at your feet as your reward.
Konavle has some good walking routes taking in villages,
peaks, remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist
office in Cavtat for a map.
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats,
sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you
will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep
receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border
customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or
cultural works must receive export approval before purchase.
Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. 01 459 13
33, www.mfin.hr.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Health & Safety
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye
should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless.
Policija (Police) are generally helpful in times of crisis;
keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of
identity documents, so keep some identification on you at
all times.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as
well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that
let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Toilets
Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option
is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail
yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street
Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re
Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.
Roads
Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about
the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed
law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%.
But recent developments have seen this law changed yet
again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of
age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however,
over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective
June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate
the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous
terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And
the police are enforcing it.
gLossary
Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol
does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway
and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways.
The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless
otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph
on highways.
On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped
for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving
licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate,
so make sure to always keep them with you.
Smoking
Cigarettes: public menace or personal right? The debate
rages on in countries throughout the world, but not so much
in Croatia at the present time. If you’re used to restaurants,
cafés and clubs being completely smoke-free environments,
prepare for a bit of a change when you arrive in Dubrovnik.
Cigarette smoke wafts freely through virtually every bar,
restaurant or café you’ll visit. There are a few restaurants
that have non-smoking sections so it never hurts to ask,
but don’t count on having the luxury of fresh-smelling clothing
for long.
Tipping
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to
tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a
classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
-10
Rainfall, mm
100
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
National holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
March 24 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers' Day
May 22 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
75
50
25
0
Summer 2008
9

10 cuLture & events
01.05 - 31.10. Art Pavilion/ Your Black Horizon The
island of Lopud is the first destination in which the T-BA21
foundation chose for presenting the Pavilion after its huge
success at the Venetian Biennial. See how this glorious island
is transformed into a cultural and modern art location. Lopud
island, every day from 11am till 5pm.
20 - 27.06. The Dubrovnik Historical Festival Step back
into medieval chivalry as Dubrovnik reignites its historical
past with knights jousting, renaissance dancing, music,
street theatre and historical stories. Witness the making
of products from wood, stone, ceramics, leather, metal and
other materials according to ancient methods. Tickle your
tummies with authentic foods such as dry figs, proscioutto,
cheese in oil, sweets and cakes prepared according to
middle ages recipes. Boškovićeva poljana, Stradun,
Knežev dvor
27.06 - 02.07 The 4th Libertas Film Festival This
independent international festival on feature film, documentary
and short film will this year present over 50 films from across
the globe. The winners in each category will be presented
with the ‘Dubravka Award’ and the ‘Master Award’ for special
achievement in the film industry.
08.07 - 28.09. Pablo Picasso Graphics Art buffs, see
graphics by Pablo Picasso with his three representative
series: Suite Vollard, La Tauromaquia and Suite 156. It will
be borrowed from the German museum Kunst Mülheim an
der Ruhr in der Alten Post and a Swiss private collection.
Dubrovnik Art Gallery, (L-5) Frana Supila 23
10.07 - 25.08. The 58th Dubrovnik Summer Festival By
far the largest cultural event of the year with an international
musical, theatre and dance festival. Renaissance venues such
as the Lovrijenac Fortress and the Duke’s Palace will provide
the ambience that captivates so many.
Exhibition
War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. 32 21 66
May 01 - July 29 Bruce Connew : On the way to an
ambush
August 01 - October 31 Child Soldier Photographs by
Alixandra Fazzina / Trolley - Uganda & Congo / Franco Pagetti /
VII - Sierra Leone / Jan Grarup / Noor - Palestine / Noel Quidu
/ Gamma - Liberia / Yannis Kontos / Polaris - Nepal
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Libertas Film Festival
04 - 14.08. The 5th Small Films Festival and Summer
School of Film Šipan 2008 Lights! Camera Action! The
Summer School of Film on the island of Šipan gathers
professional film directors, screen writers, editors and
cameramen who, together with primary and high school
students - make films. Professional workshops and a ten
day film festival will also be held. Šipan Harbour
03 - 14.09. The 8th Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival
What a line-up? A chamber music festival set in the exquisite
surroundings of the Duke’s Palace. Famous violinist
Julian Rachlin will be joined by American baritone Thomas
Hampson, Scandinavian pianist Leif Ove Andsnes, Hollywood
actor Sir Roger Moore will attend whilst John Malkovich will
recite a special project by the Spanish composer Alberto
Iglesias. Duke’s palace
Croos Media Festival In August, simply chill at the
International Festival called oOoze which is filled with
concerts, performers and street art. It is the type of festival
which invites you to relax and enjoy the Mediterranean way
of life, whilst also participating in festival events. Lazareti,
Hotel Belvedere
Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) Throughout the peak
season you can watch a series of various concerts which
include: the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra, Maria Manzo-
Kissinger (conductor) and Michael Kissinger (clarinet),
Zvetlina Maldjanska (soprano), Boiko Zvetanov (tenor), Pavica
Gvozdić (piano), Marija Pavlović (clarinet) and many others.
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
Gallery Sebastian, Ul. sv Dominika, tel. 32 14 90
June 04 - 21: Tomislav Buntak - Hodočašća
June 24 - July 12 Ana Opalić (Photography)
July 15 - August 06 Ivica Propadalo
July 15 - 24 Milica Bravačić
July 24 - August 19 Lucija Pandžić (Ceramics)
August 08 - 16 Josef Geršl
August 19 - September 10 Josip Škerlj
September 12 - 30 Tina Gverović

12 Where to stay
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
Cream of the crop
Dubrovnik Palace F-3, Masarykov put 20, tel. 43
00 00, fax 43 01 00, info@dubrovnikpalace.hr, www.
dubrovnikpalace.hr. Hits the spot if you have contemporary
tastes and take your surroundings seriously. A great pool and
beach area, spa facilities and cool reception complete with
arty waterfall and gallery. The soothing rooms are complete
with Gharani Strok toiletries - this is Daddy Strok’s hotel,
after all. Q308 rooms (22 singles €244, 249 doubles €382
- 768, 24 Junior suite: €544, 7 Executive suite: €668, 2 De
luxe suite: €698, 3 Ambassador suite: €1200, 1 Presidental
suite: €3000). PTHARUFLEGBKDC
hhhhh
The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. 32 62 00,
fax 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www.
thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live
palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked
out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in
the most hardened cynic. The staff knocked us off our feet
with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 single
€289 - 347, 16 doubles €435 - 671, 1 suite €1012 - 1126, 1
Junior Suite €715 - 836). PTJAR6LEGBKW
hhhhh
Upmarket
Bellevue J-4, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. 33 00 00, fax 33 01
00, welcome@hotel-bellevue.hr, www.hotel-bellevue.hr.
Renovated with more than 90 rooms that provide spectacular
balcony views of the Adriatic, minimalist interior equipped
with all the necessities. Indulge in local art works, a-la-carte
restaurant Vapor, a private cinema, spa centre, indoor pool,
a private beach and more. Summer specials available. Only
minutes from the town centre. Q91 rooms (2 singles €487,
79 doubles €499, 11 suites €927, 1 Presidential Suite €2200).
PTHFLGBKDCW hhhhh
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 39, tel. 44 11
00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com,
www.valamar.com.
A shining white Toblerone on the tip
of the Babin kuk peninsula, this remarkable modern edifice
has oceans of glass offering unimpeded views of the sea,
the islands and the Blue Flag beach outside. All rooms have
sea views, the superior rooms being particularly smart. Price
for apartment is available upon request.
Q181 rooms (181
doubles €139 - 329). PTHARFLEGBKDC
hhhh
Excelsior M-5, Frana Supila 12, tel. 35 33 53/ 35 30
00, fax 35 32 95, info@hotel-excelsior.hr, www.excelsior.hr.
Completely renovated, this luxurious landmark has
146 bedrooms and 18 suites with every amenity possible.
Delightfully furnished with state of the art facilities. Set near
the heart of the Old City with splendor terraced views,fine
dining with a Dalmatian and international cuisine, an indoor
pool,wellness and beauty centre, private beach entry and
more. Q157 rooms (3 singles €405, 136 doubles €540,
triples €785, 15 Junior Suite: €685, 2 Deluxe Suite: €2080,
1 Presidential Suite: €3290). POTJHARFLG
BKDC hhhhh
Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. 44
01 00, fax 44 02 00, info@importanneresort.com,
www.importanneresort.com. Experience Dubrovnik’s
first resort and you will definitely walk away with delight.
Choose from three hotels Villa Elita (5 stars), Neptun (4
stars), Ariston (5 stars) with Importanne suites that are
nestled along the sea, wellness facilities, sports and recreation,
private car park, personalised services and a buffet
restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with
a noteworthy selction of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk
along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are
ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Medieval
City. Special offers are available online as well as state
of the art facilties for corporate functions. Q237 rooms
(209 doubles €98 - 216, 28 apartments €250 - 420).
PTHAUIFLGBKDC hhhhh
Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. 43 35 80, fax 43
73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com.
The brand new Uvala exemplifies clean
modern design, a philosophy echoed by the wellness centre
(offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and a restaurant offering
a full macrobiotic menu. Indoor and outdoor pools, plus
internet access in rooms and smallish conference facilities
making this a viable business option. Q51 rooms (45
doubles €160 - 272, 6 triples €220 - 272). PTHAI
FLEGBKDC hhhh
Mid-range
Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. 43 35 20, fax 43
73 33, sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com; adriatic@
hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good
sized gym and clay tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two
star hotel, and an additional host of activities (fancy sea
kayaking?) make this a good option for sporty types. Decent,
clean and friendly accommodation in leafy surroundings on
the Lapad peninsula. Q158 rooms (11 singles €50 - 80,
130 doubles €88 - 140, 17 triples €105 - 165). PAF
LEGBK hh
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
Where to stay
Summer 2008
13

14
Where to stay
Aquarius G/H-3, Mata Vodopića 8, tel. 45 61 11, fax 45
61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www.hotel-aquarius.
net. Recently given a make-over, this three star hotel includes
four apartments and a further twenty rooms that have been
garlanded with all the necessities. Eat out on the restaurant
terrace, relax in the bar and choose from the diverse local
and international cuisine. It is only 350 meters from the
beach and a mere 3km from the historical city. Q32 rooms
(22 doubles €134 - 158, 4 triples €180 - 213, 6 suites €164
- 188). PALBKW hhh
Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. 44 61 00, fax 43 56 22,
reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar.
com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern theme, and is
only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana beach, with a
water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns and little’uns
happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool with an ice
cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles €89 - 287).
PTHARULEGBKC hhh
Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. 43 35 00, fax
43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.com, www.
hotelimaestral.com. A slightly older, smaller hotel close to
the centre of Lapad affords an intimate atmosphere. Rooms
overlook a rather lovely pool area, and there’s great outdoor
seating for mealtimes. A wide range of free time activities
laid on with a smile, and facilities for small meetings. Q63
rooms (8 singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles €74 - 180, 4 triples
€104 - 252). PTHALEBKC hhh
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Kompas G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 56, tel. 35
20 00/ 35 21 14, fax 43 58 77, sales@hotel-kompas.
hr, www.hotel-kompas.hr. This smallish hotel close to the
centre of Lapad is delightfully appointed in a clean and tasteful
style in keeping with its modern design. The indoor and
outdoor seawater pools (weather permitting) are excellent,
and guests have unlimited free use of the gym, sauna and
Jacuzzis. Q115 rooms (7 singles €135, 108 doubles €230).
PTHAIFLEGBKDCW hhh
Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. 41 05
00/ 41 05 03, fax 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.hr, www.
croatia-vacation.com. Refurbished hotel with over 100
rooms each with air-conditioning and elegant bath facilities.
Choose one of 64 balcony rooms with breathtaking views over
the Adriatic. Restaurant Taverna Nostromo will delight you with
its rich menu. Only minutes from the medieval city by bus.
Q104 rooms (8 singles €66 - 106, 92 doubles €52 - 72, 4
triples €52 - 72). PHARIFLGBKW hhh
Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. 32 22 44, fax 32
12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com, www.hotelstarigrad.
com. This little antique treasure is hidden in a street just
off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are small but
perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace is one of
the highlights of a sunny day. Q8 rooms (singles 980Kn, 8
doubles 700Kn). PJARGB hhh
Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. 44 51 00, fax 43 56 22,
reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar.
com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or modernist delight?
But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit is the bar in the
middle of the pool where you can cool down from without
and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and the famous
Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208 doubles
€120 - 288). PTHALEGBKC hhh
Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18, tel. 44
71 00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.
com, www.valamar.com. 340 rooms and only 150m from
the beach. All you need is on site, including restaurant services,
pool facilities, entertainment programmes, car parking,
washing facilities and more. 22km from the airport and 150m
from the bus stop. Ideal for a family holiday. Q338 rooms
(338 doubles €89 - 209). PTAEGBKC hhh
Islands
Šipan Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. 75 49 00, fax
75 49 10, hotel-sipan@petral.hr, www.hotel-sipan.
hr. This modest, medium sized hotel in the little port of
Šipanska Luka is the last word in escapism. This fertile
little island has little developed tourism, but has sunshine,
clean water, a brace of good restaurants, excellent
olive oil and tons and tons of peace and quiet. It also offers
Royal Cruiser for rent. Q80 rooms (14 singles €85
- 119, 57 doubles €61 - 85, 5 triples €61 - 85, 4 suites
€157 - 226). PTHAREGBK hhh
Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. 71
10 78/ 72 64 80, fax 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.
hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid
villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance
above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather
dated inside, but it has a great terrace and old-fashioned
coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view
from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q22 rooms
(2 singles €77 - 120, 13 doubles €110 - 160, 7 triples
€149 - 216). ABK hhh
Lafodia Obala Ivana Kuljevana 51, Lopud, tel. 75
90 22, fax 75 90 12, hotel.lafodia@du.t-com.hr,
www.lafodia.hr. Car free Lopud island’s only large
hotel is on a peaceful peninsula amid lush greenery.
There’s a beach and pools in front of the hotel, and a
ten minute walk takes you to the famous sandy Šunj
bay. Unimaginatively decorated, but decent and friendly.
Q196 rooms (12 singles €60 - 90, 184 doubles €45 -
66). PTAEGBK hhh
Odisej Pomena bb, Mljet, tel. 36 21 11, fax 42
43 83, info@hotelodisej.hr, www.hotelodisej.com.
The only modern hotel on Mljet island - a quiet complex
set in thick vegetation in the resort of Pomena, right in
the National Park. Rooms are simple, apartments have
air conditioning and Jacuzzis. The diving school lets
you explore the pristine waters of the island. Q157
rooms (12 singles €47 - 99, 139 doubles €58 - 148, 2
apartments €189 - 338, 4 Family Room €136 - 290).
PTHAIEGBK hhh
Where to stay
Summer 2008
15

16
Where to stay
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Vila Micika G/H-3, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. 43 73 32/
43 73 23, fax 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr.
Located in Lapad, amongst palm trees and a mere
200m walk to the beach. This oasis has excellent rooms that
cater from two to sixteen people. It also includes the Restaurant
Yacht Club Orsan which is renowned for its fresh fish,
seafood and home style meat dishes. Q7 rooms (5 doubles
€46 - 76, 2 triples €69 - 114). PTLNW hhh
Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. 43 35 55, fax 43 35 50,
sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.
com. The high spot of the Vis is the rather fine shingle beach
with tables right by the water’s edge where you can indulge in
sensory pleasures from the Lido restaurant and bar right into
the evening. A mid-sized modern affair aimed at families, spick
and span and rather friendly. Q152 rooms (9 singles €74 -
108, 129 doubles €96 - 180, 6 triples €96 - 180, 8 Superior
Rooms €128 - 180). PTALEBK hhh
Hostel
Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana
Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. 42 32 41, fax 41 25 92,
dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s
youth hostel is sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean
and cheerful and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal
kitchen is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups,
and you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q19 rooms
(1 double 85 - 120Kn, 14 4-bedded dorm: 85 - 120Kn, 4
6-bedded dorm: 85 - 120Kn). ABK
Fresh Sheets C-2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. 091 799 20
86, info@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh.com. One of
Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget accommodation in the
Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a friendly well-travelled
canadian croatian couple. Funky, clean, character rooms
dorms which include breakfast, free internet and discounts
at their popular travellers’ bar makes this guest house a true
jewel. Book in advance. Prices are per night. Q4 rooms (4
apartments €20). AGW hh
Private accommodation
Apartments Laptalo L-5, Petra Krešimira IV 13, tel./
fax 42 74 76, tel. 098 70 11 70, kristo.laptalo@du.tcom.hr,
www.dubrovnikapartments-laptalo.com.hr. One
HUGE bonus is garage parking very close to the city centre.
Apart from that, the clean, comfortable rooms and the
mammoth terrace with loungers overlooking the Old Town,
the English and Italian speaking owner nurtures you like the
delicate little flower you are. Q2 rooms (2 apartments €76
- 110). PJLNB hhh
Apartments Toni G-1, Ivana Zajca 5, tel. 091 529 47
41/ 098 85 05 78, dubravka.tolja@du.t-com.hr; tonitolja@yahoo.com,
www.apartmanitoni.com. If peaceful
surroundings are important than these apartments definitely
fit the bill. Only meters from the beach, several suites have
been elegantly decorated with all the right modern multifunctional
features. Luxury interior and views of Gruž Cove
are an added bonus. Nearby are restaurants, a harbor and
promenade. Only 10 minutes from the centre. Q5 rooms
(1 apartment €150 - 350, 4 Studio Apartments €30 - 50).
P6ILNBW
Božo Kortizija K-5, Od Tabakarije 27, tel. 42 60 85/
098 18 48 676;, bozo.kortizija@du.t-com.hr, www.accomodationkortizija.hr.
A stone cottage in a quiet little huddle
of houses around the harbour near the Pile gate. Spotlessly
clean, modern rooms and an apartment to rent. The Kortizija
family are the salt of the earth, and the location couldn’t be
better. Simply superb. Q4 rooms (3 doubles €45 - 55, 1
apartment €80 - 100). P hhh
Where to stay
Summer 2008
17

18
Where to stay
Boris Vlahušić L-5, Koločepska 1, tel. 42 64 06/
098 35 89 05, boris.vlahusic@du.t-com.hr. This stone
house is set amidst lush vegetation a little way uphill from
the Banje beach. It’s clean and simple, if perhaps a little
old-fashioned. The owners are lovely, and Konoba Pjatanca
downhill can supply meals for you to enjoy on the terrace.
Q3 rooms (1 apartment €70 - 110, 2 Studio Apartment
€55 - 80). P hhh
Out of town
Croatia Frankopanska 10, Cavtat, tel. 47 55 55, fax
47 82 13, info@hoteli-croatia.hr, www.hoteli-croatia.
hr. A short way east out of Cavtat town, recently renovated
Hotel Croatia offers modern, high standard accommodation.
With a Blue Flag beach, pools, wellness facilities, a well
regarded taverna, a nightclub and the lively little town of
Cavtat nearby, you won’t run short of fun and frolics. Q487
rooms (480 doubles €95 - 128, 3 suites €345 - 483, 2
Junior suites €312 - 438, 2 Presidental siutes €487 - 1026).
PHAFLEGBKDCW hhhhh
Ostrea Mali Ston b.b., tel. 75 45 55, fax 75 45 75,
ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. This small hotel is
well placed for sampling the delights of the Pelješac peninsula,
including the renowned seafood from the Mali Ston bay - it’s
run by the family who own the Kapetanova kuća restaurant.
Luxurious, traditional style accommodation plus a fleet of cars
at your disposal. Q14 rooms (13 doubles 890 - 990Kn, 1
Presidental suite 1200Kn). PALBKW hhh
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
Supetar Obala Ante Starčevića 27, Cavtat, tel. 47 98
33, fax 47 98 58, hotel.supetar@hoteli-croatia.hr, www.
hoteli-croatia.hr. This small hotel in a stone building in the
heart of lovely Cavtat has a family-run atmosphere and is ideal
for sightseeing, swimming and enjoying nightlife. Rooms are
on the small side but the hotel is fully air conditioned and has a
lovely breakfast terrace with cascades of bougainvillea. Q28
rooms (28 doubles €46 - 62). PJAGBK hhh
Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1, Mali Ston, tel. 75 49 99/
098 34 42 33, fax 75 46 42, vila-koruna@du.htnet.hr,
www.vila-koruna.hr. Recently redecorated into a top quality
restaurant and vila complex. Six rooms and two suites have
been furnished with state of the art features. The restaurant
is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams
and sensual wines. The surroundings are lush and neatly
secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail. Q8 rooms
(5 doubles €90, 3 triples €112). PTJHA6EBK
hhhh
Plat Hotels and Villas Plat bb, Mlini, tel. 48 90 00,
fax 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat.hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr.
Located 12km south of Dubrovnik and walking distance to
the beach.New apartments are available for 2 to 3 people
with your own kitchen and bath facilities. Car park included.
Don’t miss the in-house Taverna Plat a-la-carte restaurant
which cooks up delicious traditional gourmet dishes. Q107
rooms (107 apartments €61 - 230). AFLGKBC
hhh
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino M Nearest station
R Internet 6 Animal friendly
Croatian
Dubravka B-2, Brsalje 1, tel. 31 19 75, fax 31 19 58,
nautika@du.t-com.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun
rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets
and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty,
shady plaza Bršalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the
same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and
has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar
fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls.
QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PTAUB
Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. 35 81 08/ 091 660
00 05; 091 358 18 88, fax 35 81 10, info@karaka.info,
www.karaka.info. End a perfect summer’s day with a meal
at sundown on a replica 16th century merchant ship just
as they were made right here in Dubrovnik. It’s all in wood,
rather luxurious, and the menu is just great - don’t miss
local cured ham (pršut) and cheese. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00.
(60-120kn). AGB
Maestoso L-4, Hvarska bb, tel. 42 09 86/ 098 24 31
71, fax 45 27 77, www.restaurantmaestoso.hr. Even
though Maestoso sits plum just above the Ploče gate there
are no pretensions here. They do what Dalmatian restaurants
have done well for years, with a workmanlike approach to food
and service that gives you a good value, local-style and highly
enjoyable meal. Solid. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGB
Mimoza K-5, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. 41 11 57/
31 19 09, fax 31 19 08, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr,
www.esculap-teo.hr. In a courtyard across from the Hilton
Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is
big enough to handle your tour group and several others
simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining
room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbor, is a
pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta
and vegetarian dishes. A Dalmatian music group performs
Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Delivery is available.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80-120kn). PTAEGB
Orhan K-5, Od Tabakarije 1, tel./fax 41 41 83, dominik.
kuzman@du.htnet.hr, www.restaurant-orhan.com.
Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something
out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses
beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great
spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable
prices. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80-400kn). PJAGB
Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38,
Hotel Petka, tel. 41 05 24/ 41 05 25, info@petka.
hr, www.croatia-vacation.com. Don’t be put off by the
unprepossessing look of the hotel from the outside - the
food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s
citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a
casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of
modern refinement. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (100-300kn).
PAGB
www.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
Summer 2008
19

20
restaurants
Teatar C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. 32 39 77. Should you
be in luck, you may find yourself seated in a classic terrace;
otherwise this sidewalk restaurant is noted for its intimate
setting. The menu oozes with seafood, steaks and pasta, but
the grilled fish dishes prepared in nonchalant Dalmatian style
are a must. Staff that knows more than just the local lingo will
greet and treat you exceptionally well. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.
(50-150kn). AGB
Desserts
Dolce vita C-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. 32 16 66.
This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice
cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. PNGB
International
Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. 32 32 21/ 098
67 41 41, kucaeda@du.t-com.hr. You guessed it, the Old
Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good
grilled meats including čevapi - shish kebab. Try one of the
“pite” pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love
baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. AB
Konoba
Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. 32 47 50,
www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring
style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple
fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the
black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PAB
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Pjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. 42 09 49. Head towards
Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this
simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you
might just get something a little out of the ordinary - real
home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AGB
Rozarij D-2, Prijeko 2, tel. 32 12 57. On the extreme
east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from
its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle
cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PNB
Light bites
Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. 32 10 96/ 098
909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble
some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese
and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly
made with home baked bread. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
PNGBS
Express C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. 32 39 94. A swift,
square meal on a budget right in the heart of the Old Town.
Fill up on soups, pasta dishes, cooked meals and a salad
bar and get change from five Euro. A lifesaver! QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. PAB
Mediterranean
Atlas club Nautica A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. 44 25 26, fax 44
25 25, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The
place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking
the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your
smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative
cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but
definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. PJAGB
Dubrovački kantun C-2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. 33 19
11/ 32 11 23, antonela.di.leo@du.t-com.hr, www.
kantun.bravehost.com. Centrally located with a homely
atmosphere best describes this restaurant. Its menu is
packed with traditional dishes that compliment both meaty
lovers and vegetarians. An ‘a la nouvelle cuisine’ is charmed
with some of the finest drops of Dalmatian wine on offer.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PNG
Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila
bb, tel. 41 22 20, info@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.
ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by the Ploče
gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East
design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches
and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a
strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes.
A classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (60-125kn)
PJALGB
Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. 32 21 76, fax 32 21 77,
kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The
terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot
to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or
salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PJAEGBS
Sesame K-5, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. 41 29 10, fax 42
10 54, misko.ercegovic@du.htnet.hr, www.sesame.hr.
An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music
and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes
orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill
sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and
pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (70-150kn). AGB
restaurants
Taverna Maslina F-3, Masarykov put 20, Dubrovnik
Palace Hotel, tel. 43 00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace.
hr. The coolest design hotel in Dubrovnik has an elegant
restaurant with sea views and stylish poolside seating.
The cuisine is excellent: Dalmatian specialities with a
contemporary twist, and light Mediterranean tastebudtinglers.
Grilled chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime
treat. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (120-800kn). PALEB
Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. 098 944 93 17/ 098
944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com, www.
wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back
to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty
meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese,
octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine
are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality
service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from
Stradun. Q Open daily from 11:30 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 23:30.
(70-290kn). PAGB
Out of town
Adio Mare Ulica Marca Pola 1, Korčula town, tel. 71 12
53/ 098 24 38 45, fax 71 16 83. Whether it’s the location
next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled
food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has
been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the
queue waiting for a table! Open 17:30 ‘til the guests go home.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50-150kn). PNGB
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2008
21

22
restaurants
Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. 89 10 31. The
high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the
terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over
the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for
a romantic meal at sundown.it’s worth the trip to this little
village just north of Dubrovnik. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(40-540kn). ANBS
Bota Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. 75 44 82/ 091 175
44 79, fax 75 40 01, botamaliston@inet.hr, www.botasare.hr.
Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but
the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present
stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If
you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place
to sample numerous dishes containing the cooked little
critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70-400kn).
PALBX
Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. 47 85 66, fax 47
85 54, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A
strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent
steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps
in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re
hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great
terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (120-150kn). PAEGB
Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. 75 42 64/
75 45 55, fax 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.
ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith,
and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime
not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front
of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp
pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and
by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(60-100kn). PALB
Konavoski dvori Ljuta, Konavle, tel. 79 10 39/ 44 25
73, fax 79 14 53, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculapteo.hr.
Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the
Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and
feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout)
served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may
be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (80-100kn). ALGB
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. 47
96 07, fax 47 15 53. Set in the lush rural region of Konavle,
the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home
grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron
bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden
salad and home made apple strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
(45-90kn). ALBX
Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice bb, Mlini,
tel. 48 72 57/ 098 69 96 13, fax 48 64 71, vivado@
du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying
the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into
Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables
set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and
local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a
supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (68-98kn).
ALB
Leut Trumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. 47 84 77/ 098 24
42 25, fax 47 90 50, ivan.bobic@du.htnet.hr, www.
kroatien-ferien.com. One of the best places to try quality
local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront
in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned
among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it
comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(100-1000kn). PAGB
Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. 89 12
67, fax 89 10 97, restaurant@gverovic-orsan.hr, www.
gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach
and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good
food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous
risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from “motar”,
a grass that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. ALB
Pjat Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. 75 83 10/ 75
49 00, fax 75 49 10, hotel-sipan@petral.hr, www.
hotel-sipan.hr. Ignore the bit on the website which calls the
atmosphere “fantastically mundane” in an extraordinary mix
of modesty and hyperbole, we think it’s great! A beautiful old
palace on this idyllically quiet harbour is the stylish venue
for Mediterranean fusion delights QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(50-150kn). PAB
Triton Zaklopatica bb, Lastovo, tel./fax 80 11 61, tel.
098 177 80 65, konoba-triton@du.t-com.hr, www.triton.
hr. A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right
outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has
a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio,
marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made
Mediterranean herb rakija - it’s all the stuff of dreams! QOpen
17:00 - 24:00. (50-200kn). AB
Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. 71 23 34/ 091 512
87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com.hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt
to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t
miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch,
rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food
is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. AB
Pizza
Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. 32 31
60/ 098 30 19 88. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town,
serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy! QOpen 08:00
- 24:30. PNBS
Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. 32 34 30. Serves up
a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit
iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for
čevapi (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub
with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. PJABS
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
restaurants
Seafood
Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. 32 32 34, fax 32 32 35, sales@
esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little
brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful
location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but
meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience
and friendly service make this a strong contender for top
dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGB
YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. 43 59 33, fax 43 73
23, restoran-orsan@du.t-com.hr, www.orsan.cjb.net.
The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation
as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality
food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood.
Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted
marine traffic in the Gruž harbout. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
PALB
Vegetarian
Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. 092 218 86 12/ 098 186 74
40, info@nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.
com. Jam packed amongst a street filled with restaurants is
this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian
food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and
Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, fondue, and spring-rolls.
The smoothie bar close by is an affiliation with choices of soy,
rice and oat milk for that final desert.. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Sun 15:00 - 24:00. ABS
Summer 2008
23

24
cafÉs
In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not
worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This
process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders
wondering who the hell does any work around here. So
the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good.
The standard espresso and cappuccino are available
everywhere, while a latte here is called a “bijela kava”
(white coffee).
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
www.inyourpocket.com
Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3, tel. 098 85 49 54. Among the
many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this
is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music.
It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. P
Biker’s Cafe L-5, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. 091 764
69 19, info@bikers-caffe.com, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.
hr, www.bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourhood
just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up
with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will
try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen
07:00 - 03:00. PNGB
Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 11 48, fax 32 23 73,
info@caffefestival.com. This coffee house right on Stradun
is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate
to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up
a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location
couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. PAB
GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. 32 12 05 / press
2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. A kavana is a
Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing
about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location,
is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a
selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni
and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJAB
Laura L-5, Frana Supila 1, tel. 098 42 82 78, lmrkic@
acmt.hr. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over
the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is
phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and
local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost.
Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen
06:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 03:00. PB
Talir C-2, Antuninska 5. A classy spot to sup your coffee
amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not
enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings,
you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. PB
We’ve written this guide for high season, which features a
city teeming with tourists and Croatian party people ready
to see in the dawn. Dubrovnik is more geared to highbrow
culture than to nightlife, but there is enough going on in
high season to keep night owls happy. Croatians like to
put their best face forward when they hit town, so don’t
be surprised if your cargo pants make you feel like you’ve
wandered in from the homeless shelter.
Bars
Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. 32 10 65 / press 1/
098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.
hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden
galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden
tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight),
have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot
of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or combination.
Spectacular. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PAEB
Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s
tower, tel. 32 40 53/ 098 36 19 34. What a place to
sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the
Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks
only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and
hedonistic mood make up for everything. QOpen 08:30 -
03:00. B
Capitano A-1, Između vrta 2, tel. 098 36 64 70. This
bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it
transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans
which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance,
occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed
to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PNGB
Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel. 32 34 89. On a
fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great
outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad
either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails
are well priced. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PB
None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. 098 915 99 09/
091 466 67 86. A perfect spot for people-watching on
comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you
can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place
does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The
toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 -
02:00. PNB
Porto Srebreno 10, Mlini, tel. 48 70 78. It’s a hop out
of town in the village of Srebreno (you can get there on the
bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern space which
serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar with dancing
by night has proved to be very popular with local trendsters
at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.
PGB
nightLife
Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana 5,
tel. 32 34 76. It’s hard to beat a warm evening spent here
toe-tapping to mellow jazz (live acts too), with your supersize
view onto the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so
we’ll forgive the significantly above-average prices. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. NB
Boats
Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. 35 81 08/ 091 660
00 05; 091 358 18 88, fax 35 81 10, info@karaka.
info, www.karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this
beautiful replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of
the 16th century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s
not carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. QOpen
20:00 - 01:00. AG
Casinos
Golden Sun Casino G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel
Rixos Libertas), tel. 63 85 88, fax 63 85 81, marketing@
major.hr, www.major.hr. A super fancy casino in the
Rixos Libertas Hotel. Q Open 24h (bar and slot machines),
18:00-06:00 (gambling tables). EK
Clubs
Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel./fax 31 28 70, fuego.du@
yahoo.com. A proper little club on Pile. As the name
suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other
nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on
hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de
vivre, who really cares? QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNGB
Lazareti L-5, Frana Supila 8, tel./fax 32 46 33, arl@
du.htnet.hr, www.arl.hr. A superb stone spaces in the
former quarantine house is given over to happenings of
an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning
electronica. International multimedia festival includes
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.
QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.
Living Room J-4, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. 46 86 52/
091 567 26 32, www.livingroom.com.hr. A café/bar
that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual
chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and
well known for its fine coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun. PNGBW
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
Summer 2008
25

26
nightLife
Orlandinjo Club F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel
Dubrovnik Palace), tel. 43 00 00, info@dubrovnikpalace.
hr, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The Palace is one of the
grooviest corners of Dubrovnik, practically exploding with
contemporariness, and urbanites will find the nightclub is
no exception. Live jazz acts go down nicely with excellent
wines and cocktails, but be aware you do pay for your
fancy surroundings! QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. PA
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Lounge bars
Gils Cuisine and Pop lounge bar D-2, Sv. Dominika 2,
tel. 32 22 22, fax 32 22 20, info@gilsdubrovnik.com,
www.gils-dubrovnik.com. A beautifully designed complex
of restaurant, bar and nightclub, which you can probably
only afford to frequent if you can afford if the currency your
salary is paid in is doing particularly well at the moment and
resides in an equally beautifully designed wallet. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. PAB
Pubs
Irish Pub Karaka C-2, Između polača 5, tel. 32 30 70/
098 50 03 22, www.irishpub-karaka.t-com.hr. A spit and
sawdust style woodsy pub full of persons of Gaelic descent
and loud rock music! Crowded, sweaty, drunken, not very
Croatian - but fun. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PENGB
Katie O’Connell’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. 32
15 75/ 091 220 20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Brand new
in 2006 but managing to look centuries old, this delightful
stone cellar in one of the streets leading north of Stradun is
sure to be a decent spot to eat and drink this year. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PAEB
King Richard’s Pub I-4, Josipa Kosora 40, tel. 33
37 40/ 33 37 33, viam1@du.t-com.hr. Somewhat
incongruous - a classy, “traditional” style pub in a rather new
residential building, but nice nonetheless, and has become
a favoured night spot on Lapad. Upstairs is for drinking and
scoffing; downstairs is for boogieing and karaoke. QOpen
08:00 - 04:00. PAEB
www.inyourpocket.com
Essential Dubrovnik
Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)
D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. 32 14 23, fax 32 22 05. The
Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th
century, and with the building of their monastery a century
later, they became an important part of the city’s defences
- the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town,
vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone
steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades
have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout
ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position,
from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel
of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick
carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery
church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof
and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery,
like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection
of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great
earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been
invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old
Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano
and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and
19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00 and 19:00. Entry 20kn. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00.
Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3.
This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing
in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman
and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary
Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was
erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home
city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers.
The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and
homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.
Lokrum Island L/M-6. You don’t have to travel far to
experience the tranquillity of island life: Lokrum island is just
a short hop away by boat (departs 09:00, 10:00 and every
30min till 20:00. 10min trip, 40kn return). It’s one of the
best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the
peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s
a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s
a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests
have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun
by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in
the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being
spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke
Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and
formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in
1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are
topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from
which you have great views.
Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i
mala Onforijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska
Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular
sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile
Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central
dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps
around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for
tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct
that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built
from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the
first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.
Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with
a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake
and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little
masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near
the tower at the other end of Stradun.
What to see
Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom.
In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and
legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility.
The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag
of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic.
Today you’ll see the white “Libertas” flag symbolising the
city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once
the both the marketplace and to some extent still is the
political “heart” of the city: it was the place where citizens
were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness
punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the
standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading
fabric – a Ragusan cubit or “lakat” (elbow) – you can see
the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of
the sculpture
Stradun, Placa B-2/D-2. When talking about finding
your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to
“Stradun”, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the
unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two
main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and
Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian “strada”,
meaning “street”. With its shining limestone flags and the
uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the
Summer 2008
27

28
What to see
best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump
into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress
up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks
the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the
parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on
the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek
for “rock”, since it was originally an island. From the name
Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus
was probably inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th
century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman
refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs
settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this
settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak
tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus
creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began
to build the city walls.
St Blaise
How close St Blaise is to the people of Dubrovnik is
shown by the number of times he appears in reliefs and
sculptures in the city, and by the celebrations on his
feast day, February 3, when a grand procession through
town takes place, followed by great merriment. It is
thought he was adopted as the city’s saint protector in
971 after appearing in a vision warning of an attack by
the Venetians. St Blaise came from Armenia, he was a
healer, and legend has it that sick animals came to him
but would never disturb his prayers. He was persecuted
as a Christian, and in prison still practised medicine,
saving a child from choking on a fishbone. That’s why
he is the patron saint of ailments of the throat, and on
his feast day peoples’ throats are still blessed with two
entwined candles. He was thrown in a lake, and stood on
the water waiting for his persecutors to come out to him
– they drowned. When he came back to dry land, his flesh
was torn with wool combs and he was beheaded.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3, Poljana Marina
Držića, tel. 32 34 59 Treasury/ 32 34 96, fax 32 34 96.
The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies
the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure
Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way
you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter
of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the
Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects
Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of
an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed
in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another
earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in
fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th
or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous
for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St
Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and
foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the
11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption
by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass:
07:30 and 18:00, Sun 07:30, 18:00 and 20:00. QOpen
09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30.
The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)
D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that
crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of
two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two
older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green
colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their
roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – “the
green ones” – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents
of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original
part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was
destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. It weighs two tonnes and was
cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting
bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist
of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centrepoint
is rather lovely in its simplicity.
The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica
i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South
of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a
remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal,
with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here,
galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a
place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating
throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating
overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers
of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The
buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine
sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians
gathered there on a warm evening.
www.inyourpocket.com
The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2, D/E-3.
Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is
evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian
tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security
offered by the island which lay where the southern half of
the Old Town now stands, and the natural lie of the land with
Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on
the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman
Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying
the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties
with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to
establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in
rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and
a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew
wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice.
During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant
navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly
important industry, and the Dubrovnik “Karaka”, a beautiful
galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it
was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica
in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at
Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for
embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the
local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.
Did you know? The English word “argosy”, meaning a fleet
of ships, is derived from the name Ragusa.
The City Walls, Bastions and Gates Pile & Ploče
(Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata
od Ploča). Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city
walls are among the
best preserved and
most attractive on
this planet, and a
walk along them is
an absolute must.
The defences were
built between the
8th and the 16th
century. The fact
that on the land
s i d e t h e y a r e
almost 6m thick
in places shows
their primary purpose as defence against attack from the
mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example,
lay just a few kilometres inland. The walls were strengthened
by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached -
the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies
were invited in on condition that they would respect its
independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the East
and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town,
provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for
concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, and has a
cocktail bar, pizzeria and nightclub inside. Lovrijenac is one of
the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional
performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your
ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and its
well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and
is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best
views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just
north of the Pile gate, with its stylised battlements, is one
of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the
Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses,
each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and
Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you
now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in
drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches
and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St
Blaise, protector of the city.
What to see
The Franciscan Monastery of the Brothers Minor
and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan
i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. 32
14 10, fax 32 10 29. The Romanesque cloister of the
Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated
with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate
pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The
monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest
in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery
houses a museum where you can see original items from the
pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula,
manuscripts, and a large collection of musical notations and
a a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little
Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the pieta, and,
on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to
stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Entry:
25kn per adult, 12kn per child. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun
07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Summer 2008
29

30
What to see
The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3,
Luža 3, tel. 32 34 62, fax 32 33 10. Named after the
saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most
beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its
stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at
night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot
since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was
built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli,
who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing
above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale
model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are
the setting for some of the most important events of the life
of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of
the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include
a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision
contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can
be arranged by appointment.
The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates
is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the
courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine
houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings
were usually destroyed when the need for them passed,
Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe.
The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’
workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the
venue for concerts and DJ parties.
The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom
1, tel. 32 14 37. One of the loveliest buildings in the city
and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic
elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one
month confining him to these quarters which he could only
leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building
changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder
stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to
the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and
Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations
were added in baroque style in the 17th century following
the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio
della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in
gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly
romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade
with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful
courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace
is now a museum where you can view the richly appointed
offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom
and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects
of the period are all on display.
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Mass in English
Mass is held in English every day at 12:00 at the Jesuit
Church of St Ignatius C-4, Poljana R. Boškovića 6,
tel. 32 35 00.
Churches
Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help
over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you.
That’s why they engaged in building so many churches.
Here are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.
Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of
Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)
B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. 32 14 67. To find this pink
little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like
someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was
probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in
the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent
here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains
household objects they used in order to support their order
(e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks,
including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one
time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was
especially venerated at Christmas time. Open 10:00 - 12:00
and 16:00-18:00 and upon request or prior announcement.
Entry 10kn, children 5 kn.
Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa
bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from
the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette
window on the front. It was built between 1520 and 1520 by
grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake
– it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped
with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for
concerts and recitals.
Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i
bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the
Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed
part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary
church – nowadays used as an occasional gallery space.
The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist
and baroque styles.
Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons
(Pravoslavna crkva i muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,
tel. 32 32 83, fax 32 38 29. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church
was built from 1865-1877, and stands behind impressive
wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly
Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive
collection should head for the museum on the second floor
of the building next door.
St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Ruđera
Boškovića 6, tel. 32 35 00, fax 32 46 50. Part of a fine
complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge
of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St
Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase
which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The
church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect
Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period
was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of
the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of
the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer
Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of
the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this
is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts
of the city. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.
St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)
C-3, Strossmayerova. The graceful building which now
houses the acclaimed Music School, in one of the oldest
parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St
Katherine.
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2,
Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was
originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for
early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage
was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments
in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called
“pleter”, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine
painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.
St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)
D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by
the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint
protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of
the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone
steps and balustrade.
Museums & Galleries
Tickets
Groups of 4 can get discount tickets for four museums:
the Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Marin Držić
House and Ethnographic Museum for 50kn adults,
25kn children.
Art Gallery Dubrovnik (Umjetnička galerija
Dubrovnik) L-5, Frana Supila 23, tel. 42 65 90, fax
43 21 14, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.
dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This
1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place
to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern painting and
sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists
since the beginning of the 20th century. Entry for Art Gallery
Dubrovnik and The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery - 30kn.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej
Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. 32 30 13, fax 32 20 97.
“Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living
rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing
imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a
fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the
economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik.
The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of
the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen
10:00 - 16:00.
What to see
Spooky legends
Lokrum is connected with several legends. The least
scary of them is about Richard the Lionheart, who was
caught in a violent storm on his return from the Crusades,
and was so grateful to find shelter on the island that he
pledged 100,000 ducats for the building of a church on
the spot, but was persuaded by the Dubrovnik nobles to
allow it to be built in the city instead. And thence came,
the story goes, the money for building the Dubrovnik
cathedral. More creepy is the curse of the Benedictine
monks, who were so furious at being cast off the island
by the occupying French in the early 19th century that
they cursed any person who would look upon Lokrum as
his own property. And indeed, every owner since then did
meet a violent death, including Emperor Maximilian, who
was executed by firing squad by Mexican republicans.
Gallery Otok, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL) L-5, Frana
Supila 8, tel. 32 46 33/ 32 37 66, arl@du.htnet.hr,
www.arl.hr. A gallery in the Dubrovnik lazaret - the former
quarantine houses - which now houses an artists’ community,
including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art
of an excellent standard. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun.
Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-3/4, St.
John’s fortress(Tvrđava Sv. Ivana), tel. 32 39 04.
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding to the growth
of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most
important museums. The display of models of the fine
galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairytales -
they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for
building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour
today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the
massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour. Entry 35kn
adults, 15kn children. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene
povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. 32 48
56, fax 32 20 96. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering
documentation on contemporary history since World War Two,
including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can
see all their exhibitions in Knežev Dvor. The museum doesn’t
have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.
The Aquarium (Akvarij) E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12,
tel. 32 39 78, fax 32 38 72. Housed in the magnificent St
John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance
to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to
eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less
than impressed. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
The Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)
D-4, Braće Andrijića 7, tel. 32 40 41, arheoloski.muzej@
du.htnet.hr. The Archaeological museum currently does not
have a permanent residence, and some of its collections are
still under preparation, but you can see objects dating back to
prehistoric times excavated from the Old Town itself, including
fragments of early Romanesque churches featuring the
attractive plaitwork typical for Dalmatia. A prehistoric ceramic
pot and female bust were found on the Pelješac peninsula.
There is possibility that museum has been relocated. The
museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional
exhibitions.
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2008
31

32
What to see
The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)
B-3, Široka 7, tel. 32 32 42/ 32 32 96. This picturesque
gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born.
Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian
literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a
wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of
letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in
overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it
was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical
plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European
renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed
into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies
are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery (Galerija
Dulčić Masle Pultika) D-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1,
tel. 32 31 72, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija.
dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine
house next to the palace is home to a gallery with some of
the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the
Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. On the first floor you’ll
find lovely modern pieces in the colourful style emblematic
of contemporary Dubrovnik painters, while the second floor
shows more traditional works by Croatian masters such as
Bukovac and Meštrović.Entrance 30kn. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon.
The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Placa bb.
For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its
gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail,
this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s
column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed
the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s
trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium
is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A
room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of
fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik (1991-92, open
10:00-13:00). The upper galleries were once the place where
the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building
also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove
of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the
ground floor (open 10:00-23:00), you can buy replicas of these
historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here
for research purposes
The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i
židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5, tel. 32 10 28. The
Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague)
and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be
reached from within the surrounding houses in what was
once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community
here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the
exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished
and included respected doctors, merchants and state
representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom,
but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain
points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with
heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue
ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah
scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish
community in Dubrovnik.
War photo limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. 32 21 66,
fax 32 21 67, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.
com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war
by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested
in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes
disturbing - images. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Climbing
Prevlaka Nature Park Gruda 152, Konavle, tel. 79 15
55, fax 79 15 56, www.prevlaka.hr. This adventure park
offers loads for active souls - choose between free climbing,
paintball, biking or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you
can have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in
the clean sea. Entry 15kn, for climbing and group activities you
should call 098 26 14 66. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Horse riding
Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. 098 60
69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Even
a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the Konavle
countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof instructions
are provided. Working hours are 08:00 - 12:00 but they’re
always available on the 098 mobile number.
Sailing
YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. 43 59 22/ 43 69
69, jd-orsan@du.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Scuba diving
Abyss - Diving & Water-sport center G-2, Iva Dulčića
35(Hotel Dubrovnik President), tel. 098 76 56 85/ 098
24 43 49, diving@apnea.hr, www.dubrovnikdiving.eu.
QOpen 09:30 - 19:30.
Diving club Dubrovnik H-2, Ivana Zajca 35, tel. 43
57 37/ 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver.hr, www.du-diver.hr.
On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour. Trips depart at 10:00
and 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Navis F/G-1, Copacabana beach, tel. 099 350 27 73,
fax 35 65 01, navis@du.t-com.hr, www.navis-dubrovnik.
com. Contact one of the numbers above to discuss your
needs. QOpen 09:30 - 14:00.
Sea kayaking
Adriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6,
tel. 31 27 70/ 091 722 04 13, fax 31 27 69, info@
adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com.
Booking office at Banje beach. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
LaurAdventure K-4, Istarska 3, tel. 091 930 92 60/
091 530 25 12, info@laura-adventure.com, www.lauraadventure.com.
Sea kayaking, free climbing, trekking. For
info call the mobiles above.
Tennis
Babin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel. 44
76 27. You should call for an appointment to check when there
is a free court, 40kn per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira
bb, tel. 43 73 55/ 43 73 57, fax 43 73 57, glavinic@
net.hr. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier.
50kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 80kn.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
sPort
Summer 2008
33

34 MaiL & Phones
City codes
Zagreb 01
Split 021
Šibenik 022
Zadar 023
Rijeka 051
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most everywhere
in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths
that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks.
Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal
renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter
the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches
and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to
warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central
European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091),
T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can
be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in
news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.
They all have numerous selling points throughout the city
if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.
T-mobile, V. Nazora 32 (0800) 90 00
Vip, F. Supila 5, tel. 091 77 00
Express mail
City Express I-3, Vukovarska 30, tel. 31 18 00/ 0800
303 333, fax 31 18 01, dubrovnik@cityexpress.hr,
www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun. N
Internet places
Dubrovnik Internet Centre K-5, Branitelja Dubrovnika
7, tel. 098 56 47 15. Just outside the Old Town on the
Pile side, surf 5kn / 12min and make use of their cheap
international calls service. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Du Net G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 36, Hotel Park
park, e-park@dunet.hr. This is an outdoor internet park in
Lapad bay. 5kn / 10min. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Making the call
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local
Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit
number, and place the receiver to your ear. National
Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling
Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s
number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international
access code), the appropriate country code, a city or
area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number.
Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international
access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city
code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number.
Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and
begin with either 091 or 098. Dial the subscriber’s
number and wait for a human voice.
Hugo B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. 32 20 69/ 091 723 20 51.
Internet, playstation and PC games, burning photos, scanning
and printing. Ring home for cheap too! 5kn / 15min, 20kn /
hr QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. 32 10 25, netcafe_
dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A sweet and
bright little café in the Old Town. 30kn/hr surfing, plus print,
copy, scan, fax, burn, connect yourlaptop. QOpen 09:00 -
01:00. PNB
Planet A-2, Put sv. Đurđa 2, tel. 091 524 50 78, zdenko.
hilfner@yahoo.com. Coin-operated computers: surf for 30kn
an hour or send a mail for 3kn. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Phone cards
You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at any
kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15,30,50 and
100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards
which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad.
Post
Main post office (I-3), Vukovarska 16, tel. 36 20
68QOpen 07:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun cls
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 21 (H-2), tel. 41 26 74QOpen
07:30-21:00, Sat 08:00-12:00 and 18:00-21:00, Sun cls.
Široka b.b.(B-2), tel. 32 34 27QOpen 07:30-21:00, Sat
10:00-17:00, Sun cls.
Branitelja Dubrovnika 2 (K-5), tel. 41 12 65QOpen
09:00-16:00, Sat and Sun cls.
Frana Supila 10 (L-5), tel. 41 37 55QOpen 08:00-12:00
and 18:00-21:00, Sat and Sun cls.
Gruška obala 24 (I-2), tel. 41 93 06QOpen 08:00-15:00,
Sat and Sun cls.)
Wi-fi internet access
If you’re out and about with your laptop, you’ll find a
growing number of HotSpots in Dubrovnik. Visit one of the
following HotSpot locations for wireless internet access:
ACI Marina Dubrovnik Komolac b.b., tel. 45 50 21.
Airport Čilipi, tel. 77 33 77, www.airport-dubrovnik.
hr.
Hotel Argentina (M-5), Frana Supila 14, tel. 44 05
55.
Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana
2, tel. 32 34 76.
Street smart
Street ulica Square trg
Road cesta Walk šetalište
Passage prolaz Way put
City centre centar Station stanica
Airline offices
Croatia Airlines A-2, Brsalje 9, tel. 41 37 76, fax 41
39 93, dbvto@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00,
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Dubrovnik Airline Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Ćilipi, tel.
77 37 00, fax 77 37 80, info@dubrovnikairline.com,
www.dubrovnikairline.com. Charter airline. They are
also available for 24 hours a day only durring Sat and Sun
on telephone number 77 37 05. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Airport
Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik)
Ćilipi, Konavle, tel. 77 33 33/ 77 32 22, www.airportdubrovnik.hr.
The advent of well priced tickets for domestic
flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around
the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets
selling for rock bottom prices - a single to Zagreb can cost
as little as 200kn, but you must reserve your ticket well in
advance - or strike it lucky - to get these. International flights
are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget
airlines such as Sky Europe, Germanwings and Norwegian Air
Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations. Getting
there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost
getting around
35kn one way, or call a taxi (200kn). Check with your airline
for the bus timetable. If you take your car there’s a long stay
car park (30kn per day).
Car rental
ABC I-2, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. 31 36 36 / 091
357 04 50, fax. 31 36 87, abc.dubrovnik@gmail.com.
For any information call 091 357 04 50. QOpen 00:00 -
24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. 43 70 66 / 098
28 53 15, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr, www.adriarent.hr.
You can also rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 12:00. A
Budget I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 24, tel. 41 89
98/ 099 201 46 38, dbd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Dollar&Thrifty Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Ćilipi, tel. 77
35 88, fax 77 35 89, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa.hr, www.
subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A
Gulliver I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 31, tel. 31 33 21/
098 39 37 83, fax 41 91 19, rentacar-ploce@gulliver.hr,
www.gulliver.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Hertz L-5, Frana Supila 9, tel. 42 50 00/ 091 425 00
01, fax 42 51 11, dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at
the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: 77 15 68, 091 /
425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun
09:00 - 11:00. A
Uni rent Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. 77 34 80, fax 77
34 93, uni-rent@du.t-com.hr, www.uni-rent.net. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2008
35

36
getting around
Road help 987
Gas station
Gas station (0-24) Komolac, Ogarići 8, tel. 45 34 66;
Kupari, Kuparsko polje b.b., tel. 48 67 22, 48 67 26;
Ploče, Dalmatinska bb, tel. 67 62 27; Ston, Zaton Doli
bb, tel. 75 35 96; Opuzen, Jadranska 6, tel. 67 22 60
Harbour office
Harbour office (Lučka kapetanija) Obala Stjepana
Radića 37, tel. 41 89 88, fax 41 89 87, www.mmtpr.
hr. 24 hours Info: 41 89 89
Long distance coaches
Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala
pape Ivana Pavla II 44a, tel. 060 30 50 70/ 31 32 75,
fax 31 32 74, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Since there’s
no railway station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach
has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and
abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian
destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia
and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Germany,
Italy, Montenegro and Macedonia. Coach travel is the quickest
and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re
heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first.
You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey!
QOpen 05:30 - 22:30.
Low cost airlines
Flybe, www.flybe.com.
Myair, www.myair.com.
Norwegian Air Shuttle, www.norwegian.com.
Parking
There’s one problem with having a town clustered within city
walls - there’s nowhere to park. When the tourist season is
at its height, parking is almost impossible - the car parks
around the centre are barely sufficient for the locals. So do
make sure that your hotel secures parking for you. If not,
try to find a parking spot on the Lapad peninsula and enjoy
Dubrovnik for what it is - a city of pedestrians. There are
several 24hr guarded car parks located around the city walls,
and one at the Gruž harbour. You’ll pay 10kn/hr during the
summer, and space is limited. See the maps at the back of
the guide for locations.
Text message parking Croatia was the first ever country
to introduce payment by text message for street parking!
It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in.
Send the registration number of your car as a text message
(no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number
shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message
back from them. Different zones have different max waiting
times and prices.
Public transport
City buses, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. The orange
city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!) You’ll be
amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the
coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels
on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county,
and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry,
no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for
a route map. Tickets are cheaper from news kiosks - 8kn
for a single journey, or 10kn from the driver. Stamp your
ticket on entry.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Taxi
Tel. 0800 14 41. The easiest and simplest way to get a
cab is to call 0800 1441, otherwise you’ll find them on the
following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour,
Ploče, Lapad. There are no night supplements, you’ll always
pay an 25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item
and 80kn per hour for waiting.
Towed away
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might
come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot on
Starčevićeva ulica (leads from Pile to Gruž). It’s open 24 hours.
The bad news is you’ll have to pay a charge of 300kn for
the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 800kn. Let’s face it, it
could be worse! The people there speak English and accept
payment by credit card.
Train
Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve
Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train,
travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such
as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would
probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour odyssey and travel to
Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the
Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you
can take the sleeper. Drivers can rest up and escape tourist
traffic by loading their car on a train at 186 - 260kn, travelling
to Split and then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-
Split motorway has reduced journey times from to about 5
hours (traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take
the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-Osijek-
Budapest route, which takes the best part of 17 hours.
Travel Agencies
Atlas A-2 / K-5, Sv. Đurđa 1, Pile, tel. 44 25 74/ 44
25 70, fax 32 36 09, atlas.pile@atlas.hr, www.atlascroatia.com.
One of the biggies - all kinds of trips in store.
Fancy trying a canoe or jeep safari? Step this way... QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A
Dubrovnik Travel I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.
31 35 55, fax 31 35 50, info@dubrovniktravel.hr, www.
dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours!
QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Elite I-3, Vukovarska 17, tel. 35 82 00, fax 35 83 03,
elite@elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding
to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Globtour C-2, Prijeko 12, tel. 32 15 99, fax 32 15
90, globtour1@globdu.hr, www.globtour.hr. Visit their
website to explore a world of possibilities, including a stay in
your very own lighthouse! There’s a branch on Stradun open
daily 08:00-20:00, tel. 32 33 12. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Perla Adriatica M-5 / L-5, Frana Supila 2, tel. 42
27 66/ 098 37 79 54, perla-adriatica@du.htnet.hr.
By the Ploče gates, a good place to try if you’re looking for
private accommodation. Also excursions, rental of bikes,
scooters and boats, plus exchange services. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00.
Vivado Šetalište M.Marojice bb, Mlini, tel./fax 48 64
71, tel. 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.
hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
getting around
Summer 2008
37

38
getting around
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Side trip
Poor Zagreb. It’s a city of almost a million people – a
fourth of the nation– and the cultural, scientific, industrial
and governmental center of Croatia. Yet the slick travel
writing, the television spots awash in blue water and
golden sunlight usually focus on the coast.
But Zagreb is a treat to visit, possibly as a counterpoint
to a stay on the Croatian coast. That’s because when
thousands of tourists are wedged between Dalmatian
city walls or blanketing the beaches, Zagreb quietly goes
about its own business. And in winter, while the coast is
quiet except for the icy bura wind, Zagreb’s streets and
cafes are lively.
When Dubrovnik was a trading power and Split and
Zadar were Venetian ports, Zagreb was an outpost on
the Austro-Hungarian frontier. But 19th Century prosperity
brought monumental civic and cultural buildings
and modernization to its streets. As a result, Zagreb is
a pleasantly walkable city. You can see its Centar in a
few hours, but an extra day, or two, allows you to see
interesting museums and a show at the lovely National
Theatre or Lisinski Concert Hall. You can buy tickets for
plays, operas and ballets at the box office and website
of each venue.
Any visit to Zagreb has to begin at its main square, Trg
Bana Jelačića, named for the 19th Century Croatian governor
still honored for abolishing serfdom and promoting
Croatian autonomy. His equestrian statue faces south;
originally it aimed north, toward his Hungarian foes.
Nearby is Zagreb’s neo-Gothic cathedral, rebuilt by the
Austrian architect Hermann Bolle after an 1880 earthquake.
At Dolac, the city’s main market, you can buy
all kinds of fresh foods.
Zagreb used to be two towns, the religious center Kaptol,
with the cathedral, and commercial and civil Gradec.
The lovely pedestrian street Tkalčićeva and its trendy
shops, restaurants and cafes originally was the boundary
between them.
The Kamenita Gate, the medieval entrance to Gradec,
is a candlelit shrine. Votive plaques thanking Mary for
answered prayers line its walls. Gradec remains the seat
of Croatia’s government, but also has several restaurants
and cafes, galleries and museums. The City Museum tells
Zagreb’s story from primitive village to present day. Klovićevi
Dvori Gallery hosts art exhibitions of international
renown. A funicular railway descends to “Donji Grad,” the
lower city. Beware of the noon firing of the cannon from the
Lotrščak Tower. It has a way of surprising people.
Perhaps Zagreb’s loveliest square is Zrinjevac, named for
Nikola Šubić Zrinski, a 16th Century hero. On the square
is Zagreb’s Archaeology Museum, home to thousands
of artifacts. Zrinjevac is also a great place for art. The
Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters consists of pre-Renaissance
to 19th Century works from the collection of
Bishop Juraj Strossmayer; for more recent works, check
out the Modern Art Gallery. The Art Pavilion, originally
built for a Hungarian exposition, dismantled and rebuilt
between Zrinjevac and the main train station, produces
temporary art shows. But Zrinjevac is a pleasant place to
rest in its own right, under tall shade trees, with the rush
of a fountain and among bright flower gardens. Summer
concerts are held on Saturdays at the gazebo.
www.inyourpocket.com
getting around
Summer 2008
39

40
getting around
International bus schedule
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik
Days Dep. Destination Days Arr.
1234567 10:30 BUDVA 1234567 17:00
1234567 05:00 FRANKFURT 1234567 14:45
1234567 09:30 HERCEG NOVI 1234567 11:00
1234567 15:30 HERCEG NOVI 1234567 17:00
1234567 17:15 MEĐUGORJE 1234567 10:30
1234567 08:00 MOSTAR 1234567 10:15
1234567 17:15 MOSTAR 1234567 13:40
1234567 05:00 MUNICH 1234567 14:45
1234567 02:15 PODGORICA 1234567 16:15
1234567 08:00 SARAJEVO 1234567 05:10
1234567 22:30 SARAJEVO 1234567 13:40
1234567 04:40 SKOPJE 1234567 18:00
1234567 08:30 TRIESTE 1234567 17:00
Domestic bus schedule
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik
Days Dep. Destination Days Arr.
1234567 07:00 KARLOVAC 1234567 07:15
1234567 19:00 KARLOVAC 11:15
1234567 18:00 KNIN 1234567 10:30
1234567 15:00 KORČULA - VELA LUKA 1234567 09:50
1234567 05:00 MAKARSKA 1234567 05:45
1234567 11:00 MAKARSKA 1234567 10:50
1234567 21:00 MAKARSKA 1234567 18:30
1234567 08:00 METKOVIĆ 1234567 09:15
1234567 18:00 METKOVIĆ 1234567 14:00
1234567 17:15 OSIJEK 1234567 10:30
1234567 08:00 PLOČE 1234567 12:45
1234567 15:30 PULA 1234567 10:50
1234567 06:30 RIJEKA 1234567 10:50
1234567 15:30 RIJEKA 1234567 19:30
1234567 17:00 RIJEKA 1234567 21:45
1234567 15:30 ROVINJ 1234567 10:50
1234567 07:00 SPLIT 1234567 07:15
1234567 11:00 SPLIT 1234567 11:15
1234567 16:30 SPLIT 1234567 16:20
1234567 21:00 SPLIT 1234567 20:40
1234567 05:00 ŠIBENIK 1234567 08:30
1234567 11:00 ŠIBENIK 1234567 14:30
1234567 17:00 ŠIBENIK 1234567 21:45
1234567 08:00 TROGIR 1234567 08:30
1234567 15:30 TROGIR 1234567 19:30
1234567 17:15 VARAŽDIN 1234567 20:30
1234567 06:00 ZADAR 1234567 08:30
1234567 11:00 ZADAR 1234567 14:30
1234567 06:00 ZAGREB 1234567 06:45
1234567 15:30 ZAGREB 1234567 11:15
1234567 18:00 ZAGREB 1234567 11:30
1234567 21:00 ZAGREB 1234567 18:00
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun
Ferries and boats
getting around
Jadrolinija, S. Radića 40, Dubrovnik, tel.41 80 00, fax.41 81 11, www.jadrolinija.hr, open daily 08:00-20:00.
Mediteranska plovidba, Foša 2, Korčula, tel.71 11 56, fax. 71 11 57, www.medplov.hr, info@medplov.hr,
ticket office open as long as ferry runs (you should be there half an hour earlier)
International line
Jadrolinija international ferry Dubrovnik-Bari
On Mon, Tue and Wed ferry leaves Dubrovnik at 23:00 and gets to Bari 08:00 next morning.
On Fri leaves at 11:30 and gets to Bari 19:30, on Sat. leaves at 16:00, gets to Bari 22:00 and
on Sun leaves 12:30, gets to Bari 20:00.
From Bari ferries depart at 22:00 on Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri and Sun and get to Dubrovnik 07:00
next morning. On Sat ferry leaves at 23:59 and gets to Dubrovnik also at 07:00.
Local lines
Jadrolinja ferry Prapratno (Pelješac peninsula) - Sobra (Mljet island)
From Prapratno From Sobra
07:00 (Sun 09:00) 06:00
10:15 (Sun 11:00) 09:00 (Sun 10:00)
13:00 12:00
17:00 (Mon and Wed 18:00) 16:00
20:30 19:00
Medplov ferry Orebić (Pelješac peninsula) - Dominče (Korčula island)
From Orebić 1st leaves at 04:00 (except Sun and holidays) then 05:30 and every hour up to
15:30 (except the one at 07:20), then 16:45, 18:00, 19:30, 21:00, 22:30, last 00:30
From Korčula 1st leaves at 03:30 (except Sun and holdays) then 05:00, every hour up to 16:00,
17:30, 19:00, 20:00, 22:00, last 24:00.
Medplov ferry Korčula - Drvenik (11. 07 - 31. 08.)
Leaves Korčula at 04:30, 10:30 and 16:30 (20.06. - 10.07. only at 05:15 and 14:30)
Leaves Drvenik 07:30, 13:30 and 19:15 (20.06. - 10.07. only at 08:30 and 17:30)
Medplov passanger boats Orebić (Pelješac peninsula) - Korčula (Korčula island)
Lovor/Tamaris From Orebić on weekdays you have 1st sail at 05:20 (05:00 from Korčula) for catching
connection to catamaran Korčula - Split, it doesn’t sail if catamaran is canceled
After it departs from Orebić at 07:20 (not weekends and holidays), 09:30, every hour or two
till 20:20, (21:30 and 23:20 11.06. - 31.08.)
From Korčula boat runs at 07:00 (not weekends and holidays), 09:00, every hour or two till
20:00 (21:00 and 23:00 11.06 - 31.08.)
Jadrolinija ferry Ploče - Trpanj (Pelješac peninsula)
From Ploče From Trpanj
05:00 06:15
07:30 09:00
10:15 11:15
12:30 13:30
15:00 16:30
17:30 18:45
20:00 21:00
Jadrolinja katamaran Split - Hvar - Vela luka - Ubli (Lastovo island)
Sails from Split every day at 15:00, gets to Hvar at 15:50, V.Luka at 16:45 and reaches Ubli
at 17:45.
Sails from Ubli Mon to Sat at 04:25 (Sun 07:00), gets to V.Luka at 05:10 (07:45), Hvar 06:15
(08:45) and reaches Split 07:30 (Sun 10:00).
Jadrolinija ferry Split - Vela Luka (Korčula island) - Ubli (Lastovo island)
Ferry sails from Split at 17:30, stops at Vela Luka and gets to Ubli at 22:00. From V. Luka there
are additional lines at 09:30 and 13:45 that gets to Ubli at 11:00 and 15:15.
From Ubli ferry runs at 04:30 and gets to Split at 09:00.There are additional lines from Ubli to
Vela Luka at 11:30 and 17:30 reaching it at 13:00 and 19:00.
Krilo catamaran Korčula - Prigradica - Hvar - Split
(01.06. - 30.09. Tickets: Marko Polo tours, tel. 71 54 00 on Korčula, Jadrolinija Split shop on the
peir) - it docks to Prigradica only if weather conditions alow.
From Korčula leaves at 06:00, comes to Prigradica at 06:35, Hvar at 07:25 and reaches
Split 08:30.
From Split leaves at 17:00, gets to Hvar at 17:50, Prigradica 18:50 and reaches Korčula 19:25.
Summer 2008
41

42
getting around
... Ferries and boats
Jadrolinija boat (21.06 - 31.08.) Dubrovnik - Koločep - Lopud - Šipan
From Dubrovnik on weekdays and Sat. boats leaving at 10:00, 13:30 and 16:00 gets to
Koločep, Lopud and dock in Suđurad at 11:05, 14:35 and 17:05.
The last one that leaves at 20:00 stops at every port and will take you to Luka Šipanska (21:40).
On Sundays and holidays boats leave Dubrovnik at 09:00,11:30, 18:15 till Suđurad, getting
there at 10:05,12:35 and 19:20.
The one going all the way leaves at 20:45 arriving in Luka Šipanska at 22:30.
From Luka Šipanska there is only one line during day on weekdays and Sat that stops in every
port at 05:30 getting to Dubrovnik at 07:10.
Three times a day boat leaves Suđurađ (11:15,14:35 and 18:35) arriving to Dubrovnik at
13:00, 15:25 and 19:40. Sundays and holidays line leaving 07:00 stops in every port and gets to
Dubrovnik at 08:40, others are leaving at 10:10, 17:00 and 19:30 getting to Dubrovnik at
11:12, 18:05 and 20:35.
Jadrolinija ferry Dubrovnik - Sobra(Mljet island)
From Dubrovnik daily at 14:30 (Mon and Wed 15:30) reaching Sobra at 17:00. Additional line
from Dubrovnik to Suđurad on Mon and Wed at 10:00 getting there at 11:00.
From Sobra daily at 06:30 reaching Dubrovnik at 09:00, on Mon and Wed from Suđurad also at
14:00 getting to Dubrovnik at 15:00.
Nona Ana catamaran Dubrovnik - Luka Šipanska - Sobra (Mljet island) - Korčula - Lastovo
(only during July and August), you get tickets on dock before boarding, on Korčula in Marco Polo
Tours and Korkyra agency.
From Dubrovnik leaving on Tue and Thu at 08:00 getting to Korčula 10:45, Lastovo at 11:15.
From Lastovo leaving on Tue and Thu at 14:40 getting to Korčula 16:00, Dubrovnik at 18:35.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Domestic flight schedule
International flight schedule
getting around
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.
-2----- 09:45 10:55 OSIJEK -2----- 14:35 15:45
--3--- 19.15 20:15 PULA --3---- 07:20 08:15
--3---- 14:15 14:50 SPLIT --3---- 18:00 18:35
----5-- 20:05 20:24 SPLIT ----6- 21:00 21:35
-----67 06:05 07:00 ZAGREB ----5-- 05:45 06:40
12345-- 06:25 07:20 ZAGREB --3---- 06:00 08:15
-----6- 07:55 08:50 ZAGREB -2-4-6- 06:20 07:15
----5-- 12:50 13:45 ZAGREB ------7 07:00 07:55
-2----- 13:40 14:35 ZAGREB 1------ 12:05 13:00
---4--- 14:45 15:40 ZAGREB 12---6- 14:15 15:10
12----- 15:50 16:45 ZAGREB ----5-- 14:20 15:15
-2----- 16:15 17:30 ZAGREB --3--6- 14:30 15:25
----5-- 16:20 17:15 ZAGREB ----5-- 14:45 15:10
--3---- 19:15 21:30 ZAGREB --3--67 21:00 21:55
--3--6- 19:50 20:45 ZAGREB 12-45-- 21:20 22:15
------7 21:50 22:45 ZAGREB -----6- 22:55 23:50
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun
From Dubrovnik To Dubrovnik
Days Dep. Arr. Destination Days Dep. Arr.
1------ 13:40 16:10 AMSTERDAM 1------ 17:00 19:10
------7 12:00 17:10 AMSTERDAM --3---- 11:20 15:45
-2345-- 06:25 10:30 AMSTERDAM ------7 11:20 15:10
--3-5-- 16:20 22:00 BARI --3---- 14:35 19:10
-----6- 06:05 09:45 BRUXELLES 12----- 11:10 15.10
1-3-5-- 06:25 10:25 BRUXELLES -2----- 18:20 22:15
12345-- 06:25 10:25 BRUXELLES ------7 18:20 21:55
--3--6- 16:00 22:35 CATANIA --3--6- 14:15 19:10
----5-- 07:30 09:35 FRANKFURT 1------ 14:50 16:35
-2----- 08:15 10:20 FRANKFURT ---4--- 14:50 16:35
1--4--- 12:05 14:10 FRANKFURT -----6- 18:50 20:35
--3--6- 16:00 21:50 GENOA --3---- 15:00 19:10
------7 12:00 19:05 ISTANBUL -2----- 11:00 15:10
-2----- 08:15 15:25 LISABON 1--4--- 08:35 16:35
-----6- 06:05 11:00 LONDON(LHR) -2----- 11:50 22:15
-2----- 06:25 11:00 LONDON(LHR) -----6- 16:40 21:55
--3---- 06:25 11:00 LONDON(LHR) --3---- 17:00 21:55
12345-- 06:25 10:25 MUNICH 1------ 08:45 13:00
----5-- 16:20 19:50 MUNICH ----5-- 11:05 15:15
--3--6- 16:00 19:30 PALERMO --3--6- 15:30 19:10
--3-5-- 14:40 17:10 PARIS --3-5-- 11:35 13:50
12-4--- 06:25 10:35 PARIS 1----6- 11:35 15:10
-----6- 06:05 10:35 PARIS ---4--- 17:30 22:15
--3--6- 16:00 17:05 ROMA 1---5-7 14:40 15:50
1---5-7 16:40 17:50 ROMA --3--6- 18:00 19:10
1------ 06:10 13:00 SKOPJE 1---5-- 06:25 15:20
-----6- 06:10 15:10 SKOPJE -2----- 15:50 22:15
1---5-- 16:00 22:15 SKOPJE -----6- 19:50 22:45
1------ 20:35 23:15 TEL AVIV ---4--- 21:00 23:50
---4-- 17:20 21:00 TEL AVIV ---4--- 22:00 23:50
--3---- 16:00 21:00 TURIN --3---- 14:40 19:10
1234567 15:25 16:50 VIENNA 1234567 13:10 14:40
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes
1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2008
43

44 shoPPing
Art galleries
Đardin C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. 32 47 44, mm.design@
inet.hr, www.cro-art-design.com. A terrifyingly large
display of jewellery made with semi-precious stones, including
pieces in traditional Dubrovnik style. A super old building and
courtyard. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A
Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel./fax
32 35 23. Take home a little reminder of renaissance
Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q
Mon to Fri 09:00-12:00;18:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-13:00,
Closed Sun. A
Artur D-3, Zlatarska 1, tel. 32 37 73/ 098 28 53 98,
arturgallery@hotmail.com. A fantastic selection of high
quality local and Croatian art and jewellery. They also have
art work shops durring whole year so if you are interested you
know what to do... QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A
Baboon I-4, Dr. Vlatka Mačeka 30, tel. 33 17 50/ 098
85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com. Handmade jewellery,
paper flowers and original gifts. Q Mon to Fri 09:00-12:00
and 16:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. A
Ivana Bačura D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. 32 20 03/ 091 543
13 21, ibacura@net.hr, www.ivanabacura.com. A young
jewelry designer, whose artistic approach and originality will
amaze you. Her appealing creations are diverse, eclectic and
most importantly a means of self-expression. Bačura belongs
to a generation of young Croatian jewelry designers and you
can expect a range of accessories that are refreshing and
imaginative. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Kike C-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. 32 32 90/ 091 250
65 25, kristina.skvrce@gmail.com, www.kike-dekor-du.
hr. A florist’s atelier selling arrangements of fresh and dried
flowers. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Kuća Bukovac Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. 47 86 46,
muzeji-i-galerije-konavala@du.t-com.hr. Q Open Mon -
Sat 09:00 - 13:00 and 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Munčjela B-2, Od Puča 13, tel. 32 31 84. A place to
pick up a piece of traditional Konavle embroidery. QOpen
09:00 - 20:30.
Palma L-5, Frana Supila 10, tel. 091 55 39 608/ 091
51 42 018, www.dubrovnik-advance.com/palma. Unique
ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.
QOpen 09:30 - 13:00 and 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 -
13:00. Closed Sun.
Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. 091 584
49 46/ 091 50 13 318, info@romana-milutin.com, www.
romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring
Dubrovnik motifs. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00 and 18:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. A
Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. 32 36 99/ 098 82 04 16,
ronchi@dubrovnik-online.hr, www.dubrovnik-online.
com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don’t want to look like
a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858,
still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods.
Q Open Mon - Fri 09:30 - 13:00 and 18:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Sebastian D-2, Sv. Dominika 5, tel./fax 32 14 90,
tel. 091 505 51 16, galerija.sebastian@gmail.com. An
important gallery exhibiting works by leading Dubrovnik and
Croatian artists. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
Sv. Luka C-2, Žuljanska 2, tel. 32 16 03/ 098 61 79
37, fax 35 65 38, bkurilic@globalnet.hr. See works of
Croatian artists inside a pre-Romanesque church dating back
to the 9th century. Q Open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 15:00 and
17:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. A
Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. 32 32 93, info@talirdubrovnik.hr,
www.talir-dubrovnik.hr. Exhibitions and
works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.
Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice café next door.
QOpen 09:30 - 22:00. A
Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. 32 15 54. Original Konavle
handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
Trinity C-2, Palmotićeva 2, tel. 32 23 50/ 098 45
18 40, fax 32 23 49, kruno@gmx.com, www.trinity.
hr. Experience the exclusive jewelry designs of Max Šedlar
whose unique works can be found in prestigious Beverly Hill
boutiques not to mention numerous other galleries across
the world. Šedlar is a designer who tries to preserve the
original shape of his materials with his craftsmanship, thus
maintaining their original beauty. It’s contemporary, it’s
dynamic and it’s absolutely worth a visit. QOpen 09:30
- 23:00. A
Cosmetics
Drogerie Markt I-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. 45 68 00,
www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr. The place to pick up anything
from shampoo to mascara. Also at Doc shopping centre at
Lapad. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A
Kosmo B-2, Široka 3, tel. 32 47 70, kozmo@kozmo.
com.hr, www.kozmo.com. Croatian chain of drugstores.
Get all your beach essentials here! QOpen 08:00 - 22:30,
Sun 10:00 - 22:30. A
Lush B-2, Široka 4, tel. 32 47 97, lush3@htnet.com,
www.lush.com. All-natural hand-made soaps and perfumes
from England to make you smell fruity and fresh. You’ll smell
the shop before you even see it. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A
Rituals Splitska 1, Metković, tel. 68 34 33, renata.
volarevic09@gmail.com, www.globalrelax.com. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Delicatessen
Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. 32 20 92,
fax 32 20 91, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr, www.dubrovackakuca.com.
A treasure trove of local culture ready to take
home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines
and spirits, all local or Croatian. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A
Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel./fax 32
48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr. A Croatian
coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenirwrapped
delicatessen and porcelain. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A
Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel./fax 32 10 49, tel. 32 10
62, www.kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians
have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and
hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. A
Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 17 77, fax 41
67 73, www.dubrovnik-advance.com/vinoteka-milicic.
Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top
quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. A
Nautical supplies
Lalizas Marina Na skali 4, Komolac, ACI Marina, tel./
fax 45 40 73, penul@penul.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Top Marine I-3, Nikole Tesle 2, Minčeta department
store, tel./fax 35 70 17. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. A
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
shoPPing
Summer 2008
45

46 business directory
Emergency numbers
Police 92
Fire department 93
Ambulance 94
Coast guard 9155
Banks & Exchanges
Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-3, Vukovarska 26,
tel. 062 37 46 85/ 0800 7890 free info, fax 062 37
46 86, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 26a,
tel. 43 19 00, fax 43 19 90, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
OTP banka I-3, Vukovarska 19, tel. 062 20 15 55,
fax 062 20 12 69, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16,
Stradun, tel. 32 10 19 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.
Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. 72 01 00/
72 01 03, fax 72 00 03, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Raiffeisen bank I-3, Vukovarska 17, tel. 44 18 00,
fax 44 18 08, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Volksbank I-3, Vukovarska 36, tel. 35 89 00, fax 35
89 10, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Zagrebačka banka I-3, Vukovarska 7, tel. 35 84
20, fax 35 84 14, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva
Poljana bb, tel. 32 40 58, 32 40 57, fax. 32 40 56 with same
working hours. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
www.inyourpocket.com
Business Connections
American College of Managemet and Technology
K-5, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. 43 30 00, fax 43 30 01,
american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik
County Chamber J-4, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel./fax 41 20
44, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Euro info Centre Relay Dubrovnik J-4, Pera Ćingrije
6, tel. 31 20 99, www.euroinfo.hr; www.hgk.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Consulates
Denmark H-3, Od sv. Mihajla 1, tel. 35 67 33/ 098
20 62 97, fax 35 61 48, pmusladin@atlant.hr. QOpen
10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Netherlands H-3, Od sv. Mihajla 1, tel. 35 61 41/
35 61 33, fax 35 67 29, ajerkovic@atlant.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Real estate
Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel.
098 20 30 82, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.alavijanekretnine.hr.
Colliers International F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 64, tel.
43 72 00/ 43 72 01, fax 43 72 09, ivana.bucevic@
colliers.com, www.colliers.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Croatian Sun H-3, Iva Vojnovića 52, tel. 31 22 28, fax
31 22 26, info@croatiansun.com, www.croatiansun.
com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun.
Dubrovnik Sun Vukovarska 17, tel. 35 86 60/ 098
906 61 81, fax 35 86 61, info@dubrovniksun.com,
www.dubrovniksun.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Pro Krečak I-3, Put Republike 12, tel. 43 66 02, fax
43 66 01, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Tax free heaven
Save money when you buy
souvenirs and other stuff
to take back home. Look
for the “Tax Free” label
on shop windows, or ask
at the counter. When you
buy goods totalling 500kn
or more, they’ll give you a
form. Get it stamped when
you leave the country, and
you’re entitled to a tax refund
– follow the instructions on the form.
Dubrovnik
telephone code is +385-20
business directory
Summer 2008
47

48 LifestyLe directory
Dry cleaners & Laundries
Dea J-4, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. 33 33 47/ 098 964 49
20, okah@net.hr. Laundry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 17:00.
Domić K-5, Od kolorine 3, tel. 42 13 31. Dry cleaners.
Open Mon to Fri 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat
09:00-15:00, Sun cls.
Elegant I-2, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. 098 42 86 71.
Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. 41 25 18. Laundry
QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
English books & newspapers
Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. 32 20 44, fax 32 20 43,
www.algoritam.hr. Books , magazines, newspapers, maps
in many languages. Q Open: Mon to Fri 09:00-20:30 Sat
09:00-13:00, Sun 10:00-13:00 and 18:00-22:00. A
Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 14 26. Also offers
lots of newspapers and magazines in different lenguages.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Hospital
General Hospital H-4, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. 431 777,
fax 42 61 49, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.
hr.
Pets
Bobanović K-4, Dr. Ante Starčevića 33, tel. 35 73 45/
098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic
for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. QOpen
Mon to Fri 08:30-12:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-12:00,
Sun cls. Q A
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. 45 14 66, fax 45 37 79, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr,
www.dubrovnik-veterina.t-com.hr.
Veterinary clinic. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Veterinary clinic Dubrovnik J-4, Vladimira Nazora
37, tel. 42 46 96/ 098 45 04 14, fax 31 15 28,
veterinarska.ambulanta.dubrovnik@du.htnet.hr.
Veterinary clinic. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Pharmacies
Gruž (H-1), Obala Pape Ivana Pavla 9, tel. 41 89 90
QOpen 07:00-20:00, Sun cls.
Kod zvonika (C-2), Placa 2, tel. 32 11 33QOpen
07:00-20:00, Sun cls.
Kod male braće (B-2), Placa 30, tel. 32 14 11
QOpen07:00-19:30, Sun cls.
Lapad (H-3), M. Vodopića 31, tel. 43 67 78 QOpen
07:00-20:00, Sun cls.
Mišković Trumbićev put 2, Cavtat, tel. 47 82 61
QOpen07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00, Sun cls.
Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by
either Kod Zvonika pharmacy (weeks beginning 16th,
continuing every other week), or Gruž pharmacy (weeks
beginning 9th, again continuing every other week).
Police station
Coast guard I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 22, tel. 44 35
55, fax 44 35 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Police station K-4, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. 44 37
39/ 44 33 33, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Traffic police I-2, Andrije Hebranga 118, tel. 44 36 66,
www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Korčula
Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveler, Marco Polo, is
a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the
clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. It’s well worth a few
days stay and a perfect place to recharge your batteries.
Things to see and do: The best way to enjoy Korčula is to
be without a plan. It doesn’t take long to wander through the
old town where there are many opportunities for shutterbugs.
Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as
relief figures on the cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has
it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the
main entrance.
The town museum and the local galleries can be fitted into
a casual morning stroll. For a culture fix during the evening,
check out the Moreška sword dance, originally performed
across the Mediterranean since the 12th century, it’s still
very much alive and a proud Korčulan tradition.
If you are looking for more
of an active holiday, you can
book kayak and snorkeling
trips or rent bicycles from
any of the tourist agencies in
town. Trekking tours are also
available. For those looking
to go a little bit deeper, talk
to the nice English couple
that set up Dupin Diving
center near the Hotel Bon
Repos.
You also can’t go wrong
renting a scooter or bike
and heading towards the
village of Lumbarda where
you’ll find an actual sandy
beach reachable through
picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only
produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been
brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the
stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries
away from everything else.
If the summer heat gets so overbearing that even a bathing
suit is too much to take, jump in a water taxi to the nearby
island of Badija, home to an old Franciscan monastery, where
skinny dipping, although not obligatory, is welcome.
Restaurants: If you are looking for a bite out in the old town
of Korčula, there are many restaurants to choose from.
Some highlights include: Mareta, run by a friendly Croatian/
German couple, offers a tasty traditional menu with a twist;
Marinero, two fisherman brothers who serve some of the
freshest of seafood in town; Morski Konjić 1, an intimate,
traditional konoba well known for its grill and Dalmatian fare;
dubrovnik neretva county
Adio Mare, a local landmark; and Aborda, located in the
ACI marina, offers a creative Croatian menu and top notch
service. Those looking for a decent pizza, should check out
Leut, Fortuna and Agava. Under no circumstances should
you miss Smiljana’s cookies at Cukarin, they are unique as
the island itself.
For something different, head to Fresh, the first wraps and
smoothies bar in Croatia. Serving up tastes from Asia, Mexico
and the Med, Fresh also offers a free book exchange and
foreign newspapers and magazines.
Further a field, you’ll find some culinary gems. Highly
recommended are the following: Grubinjac, on the road
between Korčula and Zrnovo, has lovely dining terraces
surrounded by olive trees and old stonewalls. Great place
to feast while catching the sun going down; Mate in Pupnat
serves up great food, wine, and peace.The menu is unique,
their goat cheese with wild fennel tortellini will leave you in
awe; Maslina en route to Lumbarda is popular with locals
for a variety of well prepared dishes served by its friendly
owners; and last but not least, Zure in Lumbarda is known
for a fantastic homemade pomegranate alcohol and great
seafood.
Nightlife: While Korčula is not known for its nightlife you will
be pleased to kick back for sunset cocktails at Tramonto
or Massimo. Dno Dna is a funky bar that you would expect
to find in places like Tokyo or New York. Small with a crazy
interior designer, you’ll find interesting fixtures (including the
many locals who frequent the place) and friendly bar staff.
Fresh offers a great 2 for 1 happy hour. Later in the evening,
mingle with local youth at Dos Locos before hitting Gaudi,
a disco located in one of the oldest arsenals on the Adriatic
and one of the only places where you can dance until early
morning birds start chirping.
Places to Stay: Korčula Backpacker (Korčula town, Korčula)
Run by a wild young South African/Croatian, this is possibly
the top hostel in Croatia. Situated in a lovely restored villa,
it is a party place where you may find that your stay keeps
getting longer and longer. Beware the beer bongs.
Summer 2008
49

50
dubrovnik neretva county
Lastovo
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes
to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.
Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,
so access to the island was restricted. With not a great
deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has
been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an
untouched ecological paradise.
Many people sense in
Lastovo a spirit unlike
anything else, a sense
of the breath of ages.
Las tovo town si ts
uphill in a basin facing
away from the sea to
escape the attentions
of pirates. The mellow
stone of the houses
basking in the warm
sunlight is captivating.
Walking in the town’s
streets, those with a
sense for the antique
and the eccentric will
wonder at a culture
so very detached from
modern urban life.
Lastovo is a town of
chimneys. In times
past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and
ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples
still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is
the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating
the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of
the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly
released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre
with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At
this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can
see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet
and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with
colourful flowers.
With so little (except carnivals)
to disturb them, fish adore
Lastovo, and you can be sure of
an excellent meal here. Yachties
far and wide religiously attend
Konoba Triton at Zaklopatica,
known for working magic with
fresh fish and local capers.
Lastovo has poor transpor t
connections, few shops, and
there is little accommodation
apart from one hotel and a few
families offering private rooms.
But if you’re ready and able to
explore, and happy to adapt to
the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the
start of an enduring love affair.
Mljet - Odysseus’ isle
Getting There and Around: These days regular ferries
provide services to and from the mainland; daily connections
from Dubrovnik and Prapratno on the peninsula of Pelješac to
Sobra. Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car
ferry and a catamaran. During the summer season there are
also connections with Korčula, Lastovo and Bari.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Mljet is cca 5 miles away from the peninsula of Pelješac,
cca 12 miles away from Korčula and cca 23 miles from
Dubrovnik. Sobra is the main port of the island. The best
sheltered harbours are Polače and Okuklje, very popular
among yachtsmen.
Where to stay: Mljet has just one hotel, but with two
campgrounds and a plethora of private rooms and
apartments, there is enough accommodation to triple the
island’s population during the summer. For information about
private accommodation, you can contact the island’s tourist
offices at the Sobra ferry port, (tel. 74 60 25, tz.mljet@
du.t-com.hr and in Polače tel. 74 41 86, tz-mjesta@
du.htnet.hr).
Hotels
Camp Marina (tel. 74 50 71) is in Ropa, on the
southern coast. The turnoff is about halfway between
Babino Polje and Goveđari.
Mungos campground (tel.74 53 00, 74 52 24) is
on the main road just west of Babino Polje.
Hotel Odisej Pomena b.b., tel. 36 21 11, fax 74 40
42, info@hotelodisej.hr, www.hotelodisej.hr Located
in Pomena, about an hour’s drive from the Sobra port,
the Odisej has just about all you’ll need for a pleasant
stay on Mljet. The rooms have air conditioning, but you if
you get a room with a balcony and view over the harbour,
you may just want to enjoy the fresh breeze. The hotel
offers a restaurant, spa and exercise room, kiddie pool,
and a pizzeria, hair salon and souvenir shop nearby. Both
of the main vehicle rental, scuba and sailing companies
post agents and their products out front. (Prices are per
person and include breakfast. 157 rooms, 12 singles, 139
doubles, 2 4-person apartments. There are four sets of
family rooms, each of which consists of two rooms that
can be joined.)
Sounds of Mljet: A breeze brushing through pine boughs...
the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a
seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence.
Mljet gets a growing
share of tourists,
but as one of the
more remote and
less developed
islands, with limited
fe r r y s e r v i c e ,
it lacks the kind
of mass tourism
of much of th e
Dalmatian coast
and some other
more accessible
islands. This isn’t
the place to come
for late night bars,
concerts, discos.
One might hope it
never will be.
A n d ye t, Mlj e t
isn’t that hard to
reach, if you try. By
catamaran, it’s as close as an hour from Dubrovnik. Ferries
from Dubrovnik, are slower but perhaps more appropriate for
a leisurely visit to the island (and making a stopover in Šipan)
take a couple of pleasant hours. Another ferry connects the
island with Prapratno (Pelješac peninsula).
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this
island has a stunning landscape waiting for you to discover.
Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3 km wide and 37
dubrovnik neretva county
km long, making it attractive to explore for a short or lengthier
stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131 km
of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover,
so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct
forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation,
it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet
offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous
islets as well as the
rich topography of the
hills that rise steeply
above the sea and
plummet back into
deep valleys sheltering
ancient stone villages.
The submarine world
includes quite an array
of fish and several
types of corals. With
fan tastic weath er,
sailing, recreational
spor ts, swimming,
scuba diving, hiking
and bicycle paths are
only a fraction of the
pleasures that you
can enjoy here. The
western end of Mljet
has been protected
as a National Park since 1960.
The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of
the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey)
because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek
settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising
nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).
Summer 2008
51

52
dubrovnik neretva county
The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century
BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and
settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources.
The best preserved sites are located above fort of Vodice
near Babino Polje and on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko
Jezero.
The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century
BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in
35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western
side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable
in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are
located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic
coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th
Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in
the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and
some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on
Restaurants
Konoba Triton Babino Polje, tel. 091 20 53 531
Konoba Riva Sobra, tel. 74 52 22
Konoba Laura Sobra, tel. 74 51 01
Konoba Lupar Zadublje, tel.74 52 35
Restaurant Melita St Mary islet, tel. 74 41 45
Marijina Konoba Prožurska Luka, tel. 74 61 13
Konoba Maran Okuklje, tel. 74 61 86, 098 931
96 01
Nine Pero Matana, Pomena, tel.74 40 37
Konoba Lanterna Sobra, tel.74 50 80
Konoba Stermasi Saplunara, tel.74 61 79
Konoba Ogigija Polače, tel.74 40 95
Konoba Stella Maris Polače, tel. 74 40 59
Konoba Barba Prožurska Luka, tel.74 62 00
Tourist information
Tourist Board Mljet tel. 74 60 25, fax 74 60 25,
tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Sobra office
(around the side of the café at the ferry pier): January
- June: 08:00 - 13:00, closed Sundays; June - October,
08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:00 daily.
Tourist Board Goveđari (office actually in Polače),
tel. 74 41 86, fax 74 41 86. January - June, 08:00 -
13:00, closed Saturdays & Sundays; June, September,
08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, closed Sundays; July,
August: 08:00 - 20:00 daily.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
the western end of the mountain for about another 300 years,
until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ,
between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including
mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and
arrows, were discovered in 1938.
In 1151, Desa of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet
to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia.
Their arrival saw the construction of a church and grand
monastery (1177 - 1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero.
Dubrovnik (latin: Ragusa) acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in
1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410
when Dubrovnik, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet.
Dubrovnik held the island until the dissolution of the Republic
under Napoleon in 1808.
What to See:
National Park Mljet (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište
2, Goveđari, tel. 74 40 41, fax. 74 40 43, np-mljet@
np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr.
Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The
park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western
end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline
beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small
Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače
and Goveđari all lie within park boundaries. Of interest, this
park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect
the native eco-system in the Adriatic.
The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo
Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-meter-long
channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko
Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to
power mills during the Middle Ages, switching direction every
six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer path
that circumnavigates the lakes, and other paths wind up and
over the hills. It’s ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but scuba
diving and motor boats are not permitted.
The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers,
steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and
most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant
of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used
for farming or herding. Nevertheless, in a1917 fire it took out
many of the deciduous forests.
Tickets to the park cost 90 kn and can be purchased at
booths in Polače and Pomena, and at the Hotel Odisej.
Admission includes the ferry to St Marija Island in the middle
of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the Benedictine monastery
and a restaurant.
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Marija
(Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island
of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a
time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center.
Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in
autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and
peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th
Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque
church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198.
In the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal
lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture
and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over
the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs
of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance
features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church
portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure
of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added
during the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1809, during the rule
of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian
Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until
1941. In 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given
back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the
church’s inauguration.
The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a
restaurant in the monastery cellars, the buildings are
unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk
dubrovnik neretva county
Summer 2008
53

54
dubrovnik neretva county
past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and
imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding in
the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown.
Polače The village is named after the ruin of a significant
Roman palace and fortifications – one tower is 20m high
-- built between the 2nd and 5th century. Second in size to
the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road
to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists
have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas) west of
the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s
economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey,
meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will
take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right
and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort.
A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the
highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views
over the lakes and the Adriatic.
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National
Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after
World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among
charming thick alpine woodlands and working in agriculture,
fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small
Bays & Beaches
Just by walking down many roads and hidden paths, you
will arrive at some lovely swimming spots, although you
may also end up at a rocky cliff. Most beaches aren’t
crowded, so there’s plenty of privacy for you to enjoy. In
the springtime, when you can have them to yourself, it
would be wonderful to get a jump on your tan, if only the
authorities were quicker to clear away the debris that
has washed ashore.
To save you time, here are a few suggestions:
Saplunara Befitting its name, Saplunara, perhaps a
variant of the Latin “sabulum,” is one of the few sandy
beaches on the island. Actually, Saplunara, consists of
two beaches in one cove. (www.saplunara.com). A small
snack bar was under construction in the spring (see St
Paul and the Mongooses).
Blace This beautiful and popular beach is on a very
shallow cove and might best suit families with small
children or, because of its seclusion, naturists. A new
road from Saplunara makes Blace easier to reach – for
you and everyone else.
Sutmiholjska beach can be reached via roads from
Babino Polje. Sutmiholjska’s route is signposted, ending
in a cove with a few vacation houses and fishing boats.
You can always take a dip at the beach next to the hotel
Odisej, in the Pomena harbour. There’s a small kiddie pool
there for the little ones. You can also swim in Veliko and
Malo Jezero, and at a beach in Soline.
yachts, which can pull up to the pier and enjoy the hotel’s
amenities.
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century
when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino
Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to
work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).
Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically
interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,
serenity and lush vegetation.
Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located
on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It
offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a
number of private rentals here, too.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative center
of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road
and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje
is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive
trees and vineyards, and the 514m Veliki Grad, the highest
hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of
churches: St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George,
St Blaise- St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of
Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches
of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in
the 11th Century. You can reach the church, and neighbouring
St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town.
When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp
right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On
the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey
Renaissance manor of the Dubrovnik governor of the island.
Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius,
the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the
sotnica, a Renaissance-era government building in whose
courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments.
Ulysses’ Cave is situated under the village of Babino Polje. It’s
a large egg shaped cave accessed by a 30 meter tunnel used
as a harbour by local fishermen. There are two entrances to
the cave: one from the seaside and the other one from the
hill. Trough time it’s believed that Ulysses found his shelter
here after surviving a shipwreck. That’s where the cave’s
name comes from. According to Homer, the King of Itaka
survived a shipwreck on his way back home from the Trojan
war. The event took place near the island of Ogigia (interesting
thing is that there’s an rocky island in front of the cave called
Ogiran!). Ulysses swam into the cave for shelter. There, nymph
Calypso, daughter of Poseidon, God of the sea, waited for
him. Amazed by the beauty of nature and in love with nymph
Calypso, Ulysses stayed on the island for 7 years.
Prožura This medieval village was used by Dubrovnik nobles
who – a bit like yourself – were looking for a relaxing getaway.
Perched on a hill over an intermittent lake (blatina) and the
sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three
beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church
of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the
Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s
Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque
bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477
by the Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed
from the estate in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured
representations of St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik),
St Martin (the patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the
patron saint of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived
and worked in a small monastery near the church. It’s partly
ruined now; along with the tower, it has been adapted for
reuse as a stable and storage. The Church of St Martin and
village graveyard is situated on a bluff overlooking the village
on one side and the island road and Mljet Channel on the other.
St Martin’s day is celebrated on November 11 with a mass
in the church. The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on
another small hill above the village. Costumed celebrations
of St Rocco (who was believed to have saved the village from
the plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was
the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston
from 1635 – 1652.
Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish
church of St Anton rests on the foundation of an older church
and features Gothic architectural elements.
dubrovnik neretva county
Korita is a nerby village, named after the stone basins filled
with water on the rainy days from the small spring. There is
a small church from the 16th century of St. Eliah, the patron
saint of the village, 16th century church of St. Vitus and a
14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill with mix of Gothic
and Renaissance elements, St Mary demonstrates features
typical of the island’s churches. Some of the manor houses
have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own
17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing.
Sports & Activites: A range of sporting activities are
available on Mljet, along with plenty of hiking and cycling trails
for the less adventurous; if your hiking stick didn’t fit in your
suitcase, you can rent one from the Hotel Odisej.
The best way to see every hill and valley and secluded patch of
waterfront rock or sand is on foot. Bikes are a little quicker for
those who are in better shape, but scooters, quads or car will
get you quicker from one end of the 50-kilometer island road
to the other. Watch your speed, however. Some of the best
views on the island are from narrow, curvy roads unblemished
by those pesky (but lifesaving) guardrails. If you didn’t bring
your own vehicle, two agencies can provide you with wheels.
They can pick up and deliver cars anywhere on the island.
Both agencies only offer standard-shift cars.
Mini Brum Sobra, Polače and Pomena, tel. 74 52 60,
74 50 84, 098 28 55 66, mini.brum@du.htnet.hr, www.
mljet.hr. Offers cars (some with very unusual detailing),
buggies and scooters. Open 09:00-19.00.
Radulj Tours Pomena, N.P. Mljet, tel. 098 42 80 74, 098
42 80 74. Offers cars, scooters, ATVs, bikes, canoes, kayaks
and paddle boats. Open 09:00 – 19:00.
Prožura Travel Agency, Prožua 36, Maranovići, tel.
098 60 88 61, prozura@du.t-com.hr, island.mljet@
yahoo.com, www.island-mljet.com. Rents sailboats and
motorboats, also provides marina and storage services.
Adriatic Kayak Tours, tel. 31 27 70, 091 722 04 13,
info@adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.
com or Aquatica Mljet, tel. 098 47 99 16, info@aquaticamljet.hr.
Mljet is naturally beautiful below and above the
Summer 2008
55

56
dubrovnik neretva county
waves. And traces of its history – especially its history of
piracy, which incurred the wrath of Rome – can also be found
below the waves. More than 40 Roman wrecks lie in the
Pelješac Channel, plus ships that sank as recently as World
War II. Aquatica Mljet arranges scuba trips to a variety of dive
sites. For lone divers, beware as it’s forbidden to go diving in
the Veliko and Malo Jezero and the Bay of Soline, although
diving is permitted 100m from the islands of Glavat, Borovac,
Crna Seka, Seka od Liskanja, Pomeštak and Galicjia. Fishing
is basically permitted everywhere except in the Veliko and
Malo jezero. The Aquatica Mljet company also offers water
skiing, banana rides (behind a speedboat), longer excursions
via speedboat to Split, Dubrovnik and other islands as well
as renting bicycles and scooters. Sailing (Ana Sailing) offers
sailing lessons during the summer. For more information, ask
at the registration desk of Hotel Odisej.
Day Trips Half- and full-day tours leave periodically from Hotel
Odisej during the summer season. Ask at the registration
desk for more information.
C a v t a t - A n c i e n t
Epidaurum T h e
approach to this little
gem of a Mediterranean
town is one of the most
breathtaking things about
it, as the campaniles of
its churches poke their
way into view above a
canopy of lush trees. But
that’s not all – this was
the ancient settlement
of Epidaurum wh ose
inhabitants populated
Dubrovnik. A pleasant
promenade fringes the
rambling old streets,
e d ge d b y c a f é s , a
couple of good places
to drink, a selection of
good restaurants and
a h an d ful of ra th er
lovely small hotels. The
promenade leads to the
pleasant town beach, a
park and a cemetery with
an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its
centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels
which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches
and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly
wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel
complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a
traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konvale region,
famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on
your doorstep.
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house, where
one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac
(1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the
interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with
colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes.
Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his
works, they have been restored with some success, and
the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings
and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s
day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of
emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given
over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature
contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique
mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the
back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the
border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the
airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on
Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and
dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk
costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland
and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce
real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find
traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious
home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes
served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume
(see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you
can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond
orchards in bloom.
The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries
the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point
is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village
cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the
Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering
in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked
hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as
part of the deal.
The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that
it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few
settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals
looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is
a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus,
and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical
chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet
fishing village in a pretty cove.
The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia
and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have
views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain
ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone,
so don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used
as a realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts
will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an
Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed
monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones
of prisoners who died of hunger – no mention is made of this
in the pamphlet. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo,
an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you
can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.
Agrotourism
Jakanov dvor Uskoplje, Konavle, tel. 77 36 00/
091 177 36 00, fax 77 36 01, jakanov_dvor@net.
hr, www.jakanov-dvor.hr. This magnificent, rambling
old country home not far from Čilipi has a super terrace
with wide open views of the Konavle countryside, and
offers meat cooked on the spit or under an iron bell
with live charcoal. A real treat. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
ALBC
Konoba Vinica - Monković family Pridvorje,
Ljuta, tel. 79 12 44/ 098 34 54 59, fax 79 10 54,
monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica.
com. Another excellent option in the Konavle region south
of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run
the place may show you their collection of folk costumes
as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, baked
meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija
would go down a treat too… QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. (50-110kn). PALGB
www.inyourpocket.com
Neretva river delta - Orange groves and water life If
you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to
see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk.
Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored,
inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with
good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate
gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern
fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and
impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in
Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the
sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking
work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes
called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you
can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins,
local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s
Venice, as the life of
the people is closely
tied up with boats,
used for transporting
pretty much everything
around here. The region
has its own types of
wooden boat; a smaller
kind called a trupa, and
a larger one called a
lađa. Although these
traditional boats largely
died out, in recent years
an annual race which
a t tracts competin g
teams from around
the world looks set to
revive the picturesque
dubrovnik neretva county
tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction
which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation
a challenge! More curious still is the water life of the valley.
The traditional dishes of the area are often centred around
two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made
into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the
popular restaurant at Villa Metković at the town of the same
name, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris
are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly
storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.
Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from
the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting
freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully
clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped
that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near
future.
Pelješac - Oysters and wine The Pelješac peninsula is so
tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique
character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is
the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon
dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality
oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best
cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled
by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including
forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous
countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These
walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable
salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often
called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout
and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt
for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and
victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.
Summer 2008
57

58
dubrovnik neretva county
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular
conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali
grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of
Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is
an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the
first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).
It’ll cost you about 10 Euro a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac
experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is
another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”,
while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.
On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched
by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep
slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for
pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing
wind makes this a favourite spot for windsurfers, especially at
Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting
its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic
stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects
Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet -
ideal for island hopping.
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week will
hardly be long enough.
Summer camp of a different kind... The name Dubrovnik
evokes images of Renaissance buildings with ancient palaces
surrounded by the radiant blue waters of the Adriatic Sea.
Well amidst all that beauty there is another side to the city
that offers tourists a different experience, an experience that
connects the present to the city’s very own past. It all has to
do with the natural resource ‘salt’, yes that very ingredient
that most cooks simply cannot live without. Let us turn back
the clock for a moment to fill you in on some history.
The Republic of Dubrovnik was very well off and part of its
prosperity came from the trading of salt. Obtaining salt
from sea water and exporting it to other regions brought
economic wealth to its aristocrats. The region also included
the small coastal town of ‘Ston’, whose entire working
population and surroundings were mobilised for extracting
and panning salt.
Believe it or not, over hundreds of years the need for salt
intensified causing competitors such as the Venetians
and Turks to have open armed clashes with Dubrovnik
merchants.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
www.inyourpocket.com
Trsteno - Balm for the soul If you’re on the edge of your
nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your
soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in
a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally
overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum –
of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The
centrepiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman
Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth
into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest
abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could
soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant
Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts
here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and
aided by local sea captains who came home from their
travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries,
many people have invested their energy and soul into these
gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates
– don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone
aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once
shared by the local community. A little path leads from the
villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offering
a view of the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour
on the lush, island-strewn Mediterranean. In this part of the
garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a
palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The
arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out
in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a
chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer
garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern
sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus
a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered
quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which
broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and
it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall
trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy
the harmony of man and nature.
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with
a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.
Župa dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes
alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest
beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white
pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno
was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here
is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday
brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills
that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down
the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing
the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing”
or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer
in question.
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being
that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army
during the early 90s. Then the hotels were used for housing
refugees, as was the case with so many in Croatia, and
became unusable. The village of Kupari is all but devastated,
as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the
local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant
and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and
pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on
and things will get better.
We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons.
The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty
of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices
are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes
away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget
and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find
necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the
post office and a large supermarket. There’s also a campsite
and a new night bar, Porto, which has become the venue of
choice for Dubrovnik’s party animals on a Friday night. Mlini’s
waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a
picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill
and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the
beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little
villas nestled in leafy shade.
Linđo
The folk tradition is very much connected with music and
dance. During the Dubrovnik Summer Festival you will
surely have the chance to see Linđo, Dubrovnik’s foremost
folk troupe, going strong since 1964. The region’s
folk music is centred around a one-stringed instrument
called a Ljerica. Legend has it that one Niko Lale was an
especially talented player even though one of his fingers
was broken. One day, he had enough of working in the
fields and screamed “No more farming for me!” – oddly,
in perfect English. From then on he was a full time party
animal and became known as Linđo.
dubrovnik neretva county
The folk tradition
The people of Dubrovnik and the surrounding regions
proudly maintain their folk tradition, which you can still
see at festivals, folklore performances, and processions
on feast days; in museums and sometimes even on your
waiter in rural restaurants. Every region, and in some
cases every settlement had its own style of folk attire,
which often showed the social status of the wearer. So,
for example, in Konavle, where the tradition is perhaps
strongest to this day, unmarried girls wore red pillbox hats
decorated with gold braid, while married women wore
stiffly starched headscarves shaped like horns, to scare
their menfolk into submission, we presume.
The costumes, mainly in white, red and black fabrics,
were decorated with embroidery, particularly on decorative
fabric breastplates with gold silk tassels on women,
and waistcoats and cummerbunds on men. Silk was
produced and coloured at home. On special occasions,
people wore fine velvets and silks richly embroidered with
gold thread, a style influenced by Dubrovnik’s excellent
trading links with the nearby Ottoman Empire. Luxurious
clothes indicated the wealth of the owner, but rich folk
lent fine clothes to poorer neighbours to ensure a good
celebration.
Jewellery has for centuries been a way for women in
particular to invest their wealth. Dubrovnik at its zenith,
had many goldsmiths and silversmiths who, in addition
to adorning the city’s churches and palaces also made
jewellery, an integral part of folk costume. You can still buy
traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, large hoops
or drop earrings adorned with baubles. If you’d like to
take home an original Dubrovnik souvenir, you can also
find tiny backstreet workshops where women produce
tablecloths, bags, purses, pictures, slippers and more
embellished with traditional embroidery.
In Dubrovnik there are several women’s’ groups who
engage in reviving traditional crafts such as folk dress,
which originally arose to lift the spirits of victims of war.
One such group is Deša, who have their centre at Lazareti.
They are currently engaged in a project to rescue the
traditional colourful dress of Mljet island from oblivion.
On your travels around the region, you can meet many
more facets of folk culture. If you’re on Korčula island,
you may meet a procession of drummers in medieval
costume on their way to a performance of the traditional
Moreška sword dance (performed across the region in
high summer). And if you’re lucky enough to be on distant
Lastovo in the two days before Ash Wednesday, you’ll see
the Poklad festival, eagerly awaited every year by the islanders,
and a riot of fun, celebrating the salvation of the
island from attack by Catalan pirates in 1483. The men
dress in scarlet traditional costumes with embroidered
sashes and hats decked with more flowers than Ladies
Day at Ascot – a truly unique experience!
Summer 2008
59

60
street register
A. Barca H-3
A. Bošković J-4
A. Hallera I-4
A. Hebranga I-2
A. Kazali H-3
A. Mihanovića J-4
A. Šenoe H-3
A.G. Matoša I-3
A.T. Mimare L-4
Androvićeva C-4
Antuninska C-2
Aquarium E-3
Arhiv D-2
Asimon E-1
B. Bušića M-5
Bernarda Shawa K-4
Babin Kuk G-2
Bandureva D-4
Banjska J-4
Batahovina H-1
Batala I-3
Biokovska H-2
Bokar A-3
Bokeljska H-1/2
Boninovo J-4
Bosanka M-5
Boškovićeva C-2
Božatska J-3
Braće Andrijića D-4
Branitelja Dubrovnika K-4 / I-3
(ex. Dr. A. Starčevića)
Brdasta K-4
Brgatska L-4
Brsalje A-2
Brsečinska I-3
Bunićeva poljana C-3
Buža D-1
Cavtatska L-4
Celestina Medovića B-2
Crijevićeva C-4
Cvijete Zuzorić C-3
Čubranovićeva B-2
Ćilipska J-3
Ćira Carića H-2
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
D. Pulića A-1
Dalmatinska H/I-3
Dante Allghieria K-5
Dinka Ranjine C-3
Dolska I-2
Dr. A. Šercera H-3
Dr. V. Mačeka I-4
Dračasta K-4
Dropčeva C-2
Državna cesta D-8
Dubravkina G-2
Dunavska G-3
Džamija C-3
Đorđićeva B-2
Đura Baljevića D-4
Đura Basaričeka I-2
E. Kumičića H-2
F. Kolumbića H-2
F. Prešerna J-3
F. Supila M-5 / L-5
Ferićeva B-3
Flore Jakšić G-2
G. Rajčevića I-4
Garište B-2
Getaldićeva B-2
Gorica Sv. Vlaha I-4
Gornji kono J-3/K-4
Gradac K-5
Gradićeva D-4
Grbava C-4
Grebenska H-3
Grudska L-4
Gruška obala H-1
Gundulićeva poljana C/D -3
Hanibala Lucića C-1
Hladnica H-3
Hliđina B-3
Hodiljska J-3
Hvarska L-5
I. Matijaševića J-4
I. Račića M-5
I. Vojnovića I-4
I. Zajca H-2
Ilije Sarake D-4
Imotska I-2
Ispod Minčete B-1
Ispod mira D-4
Ispod Petke G-3
Istarska K-4
Iva Dulčića F-1 / F-2 / F-4 / G-3 /
H-3
Ivana Zajca G-1
Ivanska G-3
Iza Grada B-1
Između ribnjaka H-2
Između tri crkve J-4
Između vrta A-1
Između polača C-2
Izvijačica A-1
J. Berse H-3
J. Pupačića H-3
Jakljanska H/I-1
Janjinska H-3
Josipa Kosora I-4
Kantafig H-1
Kardinala Stepinca F-2
Kaznačićeva C-3
Kliševska G-2
Kneza Domagoja H-2
Kneza Branimira I-3
Kneza Damjana Jude E-3
Kneza Hrvaša C-4
Knežev dvor D-3
Koločepska L-5
Komajska H-3
Komolačka H-2
Konavoska M-5
Korčulanska I-4
Koritska I-1
Kotorska I-4
Kovačka D-2
Kralja Tomislava H-3
Kunićeva C-2
Kunska I-2
L. Matačića I-2
L. Rogovskog H-3
Lapad H-3
Lapadska obala H-2
Lazarina M-5
Liechtensteinov put G-4
Lokrum L-6
Lokrumska L-4
Lopudska I-2
Lovrijenac K-5
Lovrina M-5
Lučarica D-3
Luka Dubrovnik I-2
Luka Sorkočević G-3
Ljubuška I-1
M. Blažića K-5
M. Budaka L-4
M. Dizdara I-2
M. Gjaje J-3
M. Gupca L-4
M. Hamzića I/J-4
M. Jarnovića H-3
M. Mrnarevića I-4
M. Vodopića G/H-3
Mala Petka G-3
Mandaljenska G-3
Marina Držića D-3
Marka Marojice I-3
Marojice Kaboge C-3
Masarykov put F-3 / G-3
Metohijska I-2
Miha Pracata C-2
Minčeta B/C-1
Mljetska I-2
Mokoška J-2
Moluntska H-2
Montovjerna I-3
Mosorska H-2
Most Dubrovnik H-1
Mrtvo zvono B-4
N. Ljubičića I-2
N. Nodila J-4
Na Andriji B-3
Na Mihajlu H-3
Na Ponti D-2
Nalješkovićeva C-2
Napice M-5
Neumska I-2
Nikole Božidarevića B/C-3
Nikole Gučetića C-3
Nikole Tesle I-3
Nuncijata I-1
Obala S. Radića I-2/3
Obala pape Ivana Pavla II H-1
Obodska L-4
Obuljenska J-4
Od Batale H-3
Od borova H-3
Od čempresa J/K-4
Od Danača K-5
Od Domina B-3
Od gaja J-4
Od Gale J-3/4
Od Greba Žudioskih L-4
Od Gradca K-4/5
Od Hladnice H/I-4
Od Kaštela B-4
Od Kolorine K-5
Od Margarite C-4
Od maslinate M-5
Od Montovjerne I-3/4
Od Nuncijate I-1/2
Od polača C-2
Od puča C-3 / B-3
Od pustijerne D-4
Od Rupa B-3
Od Sigurate B-2
Od Srđa L-4
Od Sv. Mihajla H-3
Od škara I-2
Od šorte B-3
Od Tabakarije K-5
Oraška H-2
P. Beatovića
P. Budmani K-4
P. Čingrije J-4
P. Krešimira IV L-5
P. Preradovića H-3
Padre Perice I-2
Palmotićeva C-2
Paska Baburice H-3
Pećarica C-3
Peline C-1
Pelješka L-4
Petilovrijenci C-2
Petra Svačića G-2
Pile K-4
Pionirska I-2
Placa C-2 / D-2
Placa – Stradun C-2
Platska K-4/5
Ploče E-1
Plovani skalini C-1
Pobijana D-4
Pobreška I-1
Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4
Poljana Marina Držića D-3
Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4
Pomoraca H-1
Pomorski muzej E-4
Porat E-3
Porporela E-3/4
Posat E-2
Postranjska J-3
Pred Dvorom D-3
Prelazna B-3
Pridvorska J-4
Prijeko B-2/3 / C-2
Primorska H-2
Pomoraca H-1
Privežna K-4
Puljizeva B-3
Put od Bosanke L-4
Put Republike I-3
Restićeva D-4
Revelin E-1
Riječka H-2
Ribarnica D-2
Roka Mišetića H/G-4
S.S. Kranjčevića J-3
Savska G-3
Sinjska J-3
Slanska G-2
Solinska J-3/4
Solitudo G-1
Sorkočević
Sponza D-2
Srebrenska J-3
Srednji kono K-4/5
Stayeva E-4
Stonska G-2
Strossmayerova C-3
Stulina D-4
Stradun B-2
Sunčana M-5
Sustjepanska I-2
Sv. Barbara C-1
Sv. Đurđa A-2 / K-5
street register
Sv. Ivan E-3
Sv. Jakov D-1
Sv. Križa I-2
Sv. Lucija C-1
Sv. Luka E-2
Sv. Petar B-4
Sv. Spasitelj E-4
Sv. Stjepan D-4
Sv. Šimuna B-4
Sv. Vid C-1
Sv. Vlaha D-3
Sv. Marije B-3
Sv.Dominika D-2
Sv. Josipa B-3
Sv.Nikole H/I-1
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G-2
Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2
Šibenska G-2
Šipanska H/I-1
Šipčine J-3
Široka C-2
Tivatska J-3
Tmušasta C-3
Topolska J-3
Trg oružja E-2
Trnovička J-3
Trogirska
Trpanjska H-1
Trstenska H-2
U pilama K-5
Udarnička J-3
Uvala Gruž H-1/2
Uvala Sumartin F-3
Uz Giman H-2
Uz Glavicu H-3
Uz Jezuite C-4/3
Uz mline K-4
Uz posat B-1
Uz tabor M-5
Vladimira Nazora J-4
Vatroslava Lisinskog G-1
Velebitska G-2
Velika Petka G-3
Vetranićeva C-2
Vicina K-4
Viška J-3
Vlaha Paljetka I-1
Vukovarska I-3
Za kapelicom K-4
Za Kamenom E-4
Za Rokom B-3
Za rupama B-3
Zadarska G-2
Zagrebačka K-4 / M-5
Zamanjina C-2
Zatonska H-2
Zlatarićeva B-2
Zlatarska D-2
Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-4
Zvijezdićeva B-4/3
Željezničarska H/I-1
Žudioska D-2
Žuljanska I-3
Župska M-5
Summer 2008
61

Legend
church main main streets
streets
museum museum museum other other streets
streets
hospital hospital hospital pedestrian pedestrian streets
streets
post post post office park
park
hotel hotel hotel
parking
petrol station station station