DUBROVNIK - In Your Pocket

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DUBROVNIK
Summer 2012
20
Europe’s best city
guides for more than
20 years
What a view!
Head up the Srđ Hill for
some breathtaking sights
under lights.
Action aplenty
Diving, Kayaking, Trekking,
Hiking! Explore the beauty
of the county on and off
land.

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Arriving in Dubrovnik 6
Where the action is
Introducing Dubrovnik 8
What’s it all about?
Glossary 9
Don’t get caught with your trousers down
Culture & Events 10
Renaissance art to island reggae
Where to stay 15
Home sweet home
Restaurants 20
Enjoy the riches
Cafés 32
Where to watch the world go by
Nightlife 35
When you just gotta boogie
What to see 38
Those sights explained
Diving in the Adriatic 47
Sport 49
Climbing, diving and horseback riding
Dive into the crystal waters of the Adriatic for a whole new
experience, see page 47
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Photographs and an interview with Ana-Marija Bujić,
Dubrovnik’s gem food blogger as she offers specialties
and tip top recommendations in our Restaurants section,
pages 20 - 31
Mail & Phones 52
“I just called to say I luuuurve you…”
Getting around 53
An explorer’s bible
Shopping 56
Take a little piece of my heart
Business Directory 63
Banks and stuff
Lifestyle Directory 64
Important numbers
Dubrovnik Neretva County 66
Out and about around the city
Maps & Index
Country map 74
Street index 75
City map 76
City centre map 78
County map 80
Summer 2012
3

4 Foreword
The stones of Dubrovnik tell a 13-century-long tale of
survival. The Roman city of Ragusa developed into a citystate
encompassing the coast as far south as the Bay of
Kotor , the Pelješac Peninsula and nearby islands including
Mljet and Lastovo. On the walls of Korčula Town , antique
cannons still aim across a narrow channel at the village of
Orebić , on Pelješac. That’s because Korčula was an outpost
of Dubrovnik ’s rival, the Republic of Venice .
Legend has it that St. Blaise appeared in a vision in 971 to
warn Dubrovnik of an impending Venetian invasion. He’s
been revered here ever since. But it’s appropriate that he’s
the saint who is celebrated with the blessing of throats. After
all, Dubrovnik remained independent and prosperous for
more than a millennium on its citizens’ powers of negotiation.
Now Dubrovnik has thrown open its gates to an annual
invasion of thousands of visitors who come to walk its
ancient streets, to see the wealth the city amassed through
centuries of trade, and to stand on its mighty walls and gaze
across the crystalline seas. So whilst in town some of the
‘must do’s’ include the cable car which takes you up to Srđ
Hill for those breathtaking panoramic views. Our IYP special
summer edition reveals the secrets of the deep that just
might entice you to throw on the goggles, mask, and oxygen
tank, and submerge. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival is a
cultural spectacle with snazzy world and local artists in music,
theatre, dance and folklore. Gastro-blogger Anamarija gives
us some audacious tips on local cuisine and there is a whole
lot more for you to explore!
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ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
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Available at all Tourist Information Offi ces, Cultural
Institutions, Hotels, Travel Agencies, ...
Dubrovnik
Card
Special tourist discount card
Daily Card
includes free entrance to
8 cultural institutions &
24 h public transport rides
No charge for children
up to 12 years old
ONLY
130,00 kn
DU CARD
3-day Card
includes free entrance to
8 cultural institutions &
10 public transport rides
No charge for children
up to 12 years old
ONLY
180,00 kn
Weekly Card
includes free entrance to
8 cultural institutions &
20 public transport rides
No charge for children
up to 12 years old
ONLY
220,00 kn
Includes free entrance to:
City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History
Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum
Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery
Includes:
discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car discount, discounts on souvenirs, ...
www.dubrovnikcard.com

6 Arriving in dubrovnik
Tourist information
i
Tourist Information Centre Gruž
I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32, tel.
(+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@
tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.
Q May, October Open 08:00 - 20:00.
June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Tourist Information Centre Lapad G-2, Šetalište
kralja Zvonimira 3, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, ured.
lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Q May,
October Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
June - September 30 Open 08:30 - 20:30, Fri, Sat 09:00
- 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information Centre Pile C-2, Brsalje 5,
tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@tzdubrovnik.
hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. June
- September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board I-3,
Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, info@
visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel.
(+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.
tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Arriving in Dubrovnik
By boat. There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the
centuries old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town
and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office
and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old
Town. Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the
world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers.
Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good
accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there.
There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and
loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port
looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s
hotels are located. Getting to town: hop on an orange bus
number 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12kn
if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15kn if you buy it on board.
Tickets must be cancelled in the machine next to the driver
immediately on boarding.
By bus. The city has a new coach station close to the
Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry
terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open
05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing
money: head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs
and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn.
Left luggage: the garderoba works 04:30 - 22:30, 5kn per
hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Public phones are on
the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus
a large Konzum supermarket next door (open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00). Getting to town: buses to town stop
right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B or 3. Tickets cost
15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or
in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09
70 and 0800 14 41.
By car. For the time being, there is no motorway to
Dubrovnik. Considering how narrow non-motorway roads
are, you’re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split.
Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all
roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders,
motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To
approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel:
Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you
inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible
bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a
corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your
passport or ID card handy.
Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3
(E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading
south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska
Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but
you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.
When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east
and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check
out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for
traffic information.
By plane. Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of
Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean and functional. There is a
restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and
ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in
the arrivals hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and
2kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is
in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town:
Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into
town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance
to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the
bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the
airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a
day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.
Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33
33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.
By train. Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic
narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to
learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are
determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either
Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb,
Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612
Dubrovnik Neretva County (April 2011): 122,783
Dubrovnik (April 2011): 42, 641
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy.
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction
for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named
some of its most pure!
Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County
measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea.
Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian
coast, 47 of them inhabited.
Climate: Mediterranean
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time
Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arriving in dubrovnik
ŠTEDNJA SE ISPLATI.
MUDRO UOKVIRENA ŠTEDNJA.
GROWING YOUR MONEY.
WISELY STRUCTURED SAVINGS.
SPAREN LOHNT SICH.
KLUG GESTALTETES SPARBUCH.
IL RISPARMIO CONVIENE.
RISPARMI BEN STRUTTURATI.
www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr • info telefon 0800 14 14 • facebook.com/hypobankahrvatska
5,00%
EUR

8 introduCing dubrovnik
It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are
proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little
more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride
runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified
are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it
manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people
of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s
not an empty or boastful pride.
Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls
and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people
of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar
and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the
main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called,
was an island, offering some protection from attack, but,
of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful
citizens their shelter.
That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were
under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades,
Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.
But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy,
the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this
became a city-state which flourished for four centuries,
maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the
Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.
The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many
other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the
Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the
Adriatic that it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the
region. And during the heyday of the city’s development,
art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in
Lidija Miščin, Falling in love with Dubrovnik, Srđ viewpoint
one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature
which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can
hear today.
This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town,
this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can
be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its
annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this
year held for the 62nd time. It can also be heard – this is a
city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of
the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.
Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also
manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for
example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And
alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally
came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see
the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags
to the sides of buses.
It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny
Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might
lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when
the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting
his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the
sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong.
It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and
well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.
Make friends? Just click!
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

National holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
April 8 Easter
April 9 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers' Day
June 7 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna
equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed
to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn
minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at
all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can
import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres
of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export;
however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from
Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export
approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory
department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further
details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Health & Safety
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye
should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless.
The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis;
keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of
identity documents, so keep some identification on you at
all times.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as
well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
-10
introduCing dubrovnik gLossArY 9
Rainfall, mm
100
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
75
50
25
0
Jennifer Lin, Break
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Toilets
Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option
is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail
yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street
Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re
Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.
Roads
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies
to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5%
applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave
it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but
given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will
probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed
kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed
traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed
patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The
speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked;
80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the
spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any
reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car
registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure
to always keep them with you.
Tipping
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to
tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy
thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

10 CuLture & events
Croatia’s world recognised National Folklore Ensemble LADO will be appearing at this year’s Dubrovnik Summer Games, the
complete programme outline is on www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. LADO (Archives)
Exhibitions
Ex Yugoslavia 1991-1999
C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20)
32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.
com. The expression every picture tells a story has its merit.
This permanent collection of images presents some of the
world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of
the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and
Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko
Bandic, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon
Jones are included. Multimedia video included. June - October
01.05 Tuesday - 29.07 Sunday
The Srebrenica Genocide and Bosnians
C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, info@warphotoltd.
com, www.warphotoltd.com. A chilling reflection on the
biggest massacre in Europe post WWII. Tarik Samarah and
Paul Lowe present the macabre terrors of war whilst also
capturing life in Bosnia today; a new spirit within the people,
the rebuilding and the path to a better future.
Homeland War
Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 1991-1995
(Dubrovnik u Domovinskom ratu) Imperial
Fort, Srđ. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the
‘Fort Imperial’ building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol
in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs,
published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and
commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia,
flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a
memorial with the names of all the defenders who had
lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
05.05 Saturday - 17.06 Sunday
Steve McCurry - A Moment of Unprotectedness
L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23. See the work
of New York based photojournalist Steve McCurry who is best
known for his award winning photograph ‘Afghan Girl’. Having
covered international conflicts from all over the world, this
renegade with a camera presents several of his series from
the 1980s until today. Themes differ from landscape shots,
portraits to images of war.
12.05 Saturday - 16.06 Saturday
Amel Ibrahimović - When the leaves fall down
Bukovac House, Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, muzej@kucabukovac.hr,
www.kuca-bukovac.hr. A young Bosnian artist
who calls Denmark home, presents a range of drawings on
walls that bring to life the atmosphere of a typical garden
in Bosnia. His roots shine in his work and the exhibit is in
the gallery and home of the famous Croatian painter Vlaho
Bukovac.
16.05 Wednesday - 31.07 Tuesday
Saint Blaise in History and in the Present
D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1 and Žitnica Rupe
(Rupe Granary). When strolling around the Old City of
Dubrovnik simply count the amount of times you pass an
image of Saint Blaze, patron to Dubrovnik. You’ll be left
dumfound! He lives not only in the walls but in the hearts of
city folk and has so since the 10th century. A huge insight is
given into his life, his works, his martyrdom and visions that
saved this city from imperial attack. As a symbol of the city,
his images in art, banners, money, stamps, medals through
to statues on city buildings and walls are everywhere. City
museums will hold exhibitions that portray the importance of
Saint Blaze as seen through art and culture, a true adornment
to a much loved Saint.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

July – October
Sea Turtles - Silent
Seamen of the Adriatic
C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History
Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel.
(+385-20) 32 48 88.
Sea turtles are amongst the many
inhabitants of the Adriatic Sea and
they come in various breeds and
sizes. This temporary exhibition
pays homage to these gracious
reptiles and offers visitors an
insight into their incredible world,
as well as the numerous reasons
for their endangered status.
17.05 – 18.10 Thursday
Dermochelys coriacea
C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1,
tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.
A scientific exhibition dedicated to the research by local
natural scientist Baldo Kosić at the end of the 19th century.
It is divided into two parts and the central theme is based
on the death of the so called ‘sea turtle’ found with two holes
on its shell (1894). It compares the methods in investigation
at the time to contemporary methods.
The Linđo Folk Ensemble
L-2, Lazareti, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 40
23/(+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. One
of Croatia’s finest exports, the Linđo folk ensemble is
ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and
Friday during the tourist season. High-spirited energetic
performances with amazing costumes and haunting
song will echo through Lazareti, starting at 21:30. The
complete schedule can be seen at www.lindjo.hr. Q
Tickets 100kn.
Artur Gallery
B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73
01.06 Friday -10.06 Sunday
Ivana Jovanović Trostmann - Landscapes
10.06 Sunday - 30.06 Saturday
Lizzie Hale - Motifs of the City of Dubrovnik
01.07 Sunday - 31.07 Tuesday
Nela Račić - An exhibition.
01.08 Wednesday - 31.08 Friday
Tony Robinson and Paul Maloney - Dubrovnik
City Visions
01.09 Saturday - 30.09 Sunday
Elzbieta Stanhope - Ceramics
Lizzie Hale, photo by Stephen Murray Latham, Artur
Gallery (Archives)
CuLture & events
Special events
09.06 Saturday - 04.07 Wednesday
Epidaurus festival
Cavtat, Konavle, Epidaurus.festival@gmail.com, www.
epidaurusfestival.com. The festival motto, ‘Living with
Arts’, attracts multitudes of classical and jazz musicians, it
holds theatre shows and art exhibits in attractive open air
venues. The ‘Young Talents’ series offers upcoming artists
the spotlight so they can express their flair and abilities. Other
features include Opera in Konavle, and evenings that are a
tribute to Tino Pattiera, a great opera singer from this region.
Epidaurus Festival (Archives)
15.06 Friday - 26.06 Tuesday
Le Petit Festival du Theatre - Croatia meets
Japan
D-3, Marin Držić Museum, Široka 7; In front of Church
Saint Blaise; Lazareti; Veli Žali, Brsečine, www.
lepetitfestival.com. If ever one questions the unity between
art and culture then come hence forth. This festival bridges
the two prrrfectly with talented artists from fields aplenty
(theatre, dance, medicine, haute couture) and more? Come
and see the works of such performers as they present their
dedications to the Land of the Rising Sun.
27.06 Wednesday - 30.06 Saturday
The Dubrovnik International Opera Festival
D-3, Atrium of the Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1,
www.dubrovnik-opera-festival.com. Love opera! Then
look no further as this festival becomes a melting pot
for opera singers, ensembles and symphony orchestras
worldwide. Artists from Austria, Russia, Poland, Colombia, and
Mexico will perform amongst others. The event enriches the
city’s cultural offer and is dedicated to the legendary world
renowned Dubrovnik opera singer, Tino Pattiera.
10.07 Tuesday - 25.08 Saturday
63rd Dubrovnik Summer Festival
www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. One of the oldest European
festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre
and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer
weeks. In its 63rd edition, this event has all the grandeur with
renaissance venues such as the Minčeta Fortress and the
Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000
artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.
Lost the beat?
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dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
11

12 CuLture & events
Steve McCurry
18.07 Wednesday - 19.07 Thursday
Lado - National Folk Dance Ensemble of Croatia
Atrium of the Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1; Revelin
Fortress terrace, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. LADO,
the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949
as a professional national institution responsible for
keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over
100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and
instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing
the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by
experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that
the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to
express itself. LADO really is a national treasure, and if you
should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed.
Check out www.lado.hr. Q Starts at 21:30.
Concert Matinee
01.06 Friday - 31.10 Wednesday
B-3, Dom Marina Držića, Široka 7. Spruce up your
Sunday morning with Slobodan Begić (violin) and Dario
Čagalj (guitar) performing concert matinees at the Marin
Držić Dom each and every Sunday, from 10:30.
Candlelight Concerts
What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit
classical concert in the atmospheric sorroundings of St
Saviour’s Church right on the Stradun?
June, September, October
Mondays: Sorkočević Quartet. St Saviour’s Church at
21:00.
Wednesdays: Dubrovnik String Quartet. St Saviour’s
Church at 21:00.
Fridays: Slobodan Begić, violin, Nena Čorak, piano,
Tomislav Žerovnik, guitar - The best of great compousers.
St Saviour’s Church at 21:00.
11.08 Saturday
The Neretva Boat (lađa) Marathon
Be amongst the 50,000 viewers that attend this spectacle
which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat, an
authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a means
of transport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is
held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva River.
Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades,
concerts, and plenty of cheer.
05.09 Wednesday - 09.09 Sunday
Kinookus - The Food Film Festival
Ston, kinookus@gmail.com, www.kinookus.com.hr. The
art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film
festival preserves and promotes issues relating to healthy
food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity,
ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve up mouth
watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord of
film and motion picture.
07.09 Friday - 16.09 Sunday
Korčula Baroque Festival
Korčula, www.korkyrabaroque.com. Not rock but purely
baroque and such music lovers can choose from twelve
concerts with ensembles and solo artists from the UK,
France, Belgium, Italy and Croatia. In addition, there will also
be lectures and other events pertaining to the musical style,
come to think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!
Opening of Dubrovnik Summer Festival
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Galleries
Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija
Dubrovnik) L-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42
65 90, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This
1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place
to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings
and sculpture which encompasses almost all important
artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.
The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown
Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/
Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown)
D-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72,
info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine
house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with
some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto
the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters
that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local
themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly,
candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a
wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get
a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and
renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial
to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died
in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.
The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog
Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s
buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic
and renaissance detail, this was always a public building.
Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of
public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs
house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was
built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.
CuLture & events
venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated
to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik
1991-92 (December - April 30 Open 10:00 - 15:30. May - May
31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission free). The upper galleries
were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals
held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State
Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic.
In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of
these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly
here for research purposes.
Cinemas
CineStar Dvori Lapad G-2 www.blitz-cinestar.hr.
Dvorana Visia B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St
Clara Convent, Stradun). Box office open an hour before
the first projection.
Sloboda D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32
14 25. Q Box office open two hours before the first
projection.
Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and Kinookus
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
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14 CuLture & events
Josip Ruđer Bošković
Josip Ruđer Bošković was undoubtedly one of the
greatest minds of the 18th century. He was born in
Dubrovnik and this year marks the 300th anniversary
of his birth. Bošković was an astronomer, surveyor,
hydrographer, mathematician, philosopher, diplomat,
archaeologist, architect and poet. His most significant
work was in the fields of mathematics, geometry,
astronomy, geodesy, optics and physics. He was
exceptionally prolific, publishing a great body of work
that laid the foundations for modern science during his
career, which spanned 50 years and was mainly spent
in Milan, Paris and Rome. He was a member of the
Scientiarum et Artium Institutum atque Academia in
Bologna (1746), a corresponding member of the Paris
Academy of Sciences (1748), a honorary member of
the Tsar’s Academy of Sciences in St Petersburg (1760)
and a member of the Royal Society in London (1761).
Bošković left his native Dubrovnik at an early age after
completing his elementary education at a Jesuit school,
and he went to Rome, again to study with the Jesuits. He
took the vow and entered the order as a priest until the
order was suppressed in 1773. Despite the fact that he
was a priest, he was a follower of Copernicus’ system,
but was also the one to propose the repair of the cupola
of St Peter’s in Rome. He returned to Dubrovnik only once
in his lifetime, for a holiday in 1747, although he kept in
regular contact with his sister Anica and his brother Božo.
He wrote regularly to them, and undertook diplomatic
duties on behalf of the city of Dubrovnik. He was highly
sociable and articulate, but also sickly, somewhat
solemn and a little depressive, with a tendency to be
headstrong, which sometimes caused him problems. He
died in Milan at the age of 76, struck down by disease.
He is buried there. Today, a crater on the Moon is named
after Bošković, as is the Ruđer Bošković multidisciplinary
research institute in Zagreb, the Astronomical Society in
Belgrade, the Parish Grammar School in Dubrovnik and
a great many other schools, institutions, streets and
squares. His image appeared on all banknotes issues in
the transition period from Yugoslav to Croatian currency
between 1991 and 1993, when the currency was known
as the Croatian Dinar.
War Photo Limited
War Photo Limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20)
32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.
com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war
by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested
in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes
disturbing - images. Q June - September 30 Open 10:00 -
22:00. May, October Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Closed
November - April. Admission 30kn.
Club Nights
21.05 Monday – 16.08 Thursday
Re-Vel-In Festival 2012 D-2, Culture Club
Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), www.
clubrevelin.com
Enter the Culture Club at the magnificent Revelin Fortress
where thousands of worldly travellers boogie and party
till the early morning hours. A star studded line-up of DJs
ought to blow your summer away including James Zabiela,
Fatboy Slim, Martin Solveig, Pail Van Dyk, Axwell, Umek
and Riva Starr.. An electronic dance spectacle with salsa
and karaoke nights in between to help break the rhythm.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Cream of the crop
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik K-3, Marijana Blažića
2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20,
sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.
com. Refurbished and reopened in 2006 amidst a blaze
of imperial glory, this grandmomma of a hotel, dating
back to 1897, is near the Pile gate. Suites have fantastic
views, and the terrace and piano bar are fine spots to
unwind, as is the elegant indoor pool with natural sunlight.
Q147 rooms (139 singles €221 - 401, 139 doubles €252
- 450, 139 triples €293 - 490, 4 suites €460 - 610, 1
Presidental Suite €980 - 1150, 3 Junior Suites €395 - 575).
PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh
Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel.
(+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@
importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com.
Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort. Choose from three
Hotel Imperial
where to stAY
hotels, Neptun (4 stars), Ariston (5 stars) or Royal Princess
(5 stars), or Importanne suites (5 stars) that are nestled
along the sea. Wellness facilities, sports and recreation,
private car park, personalised services and a buffet
restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a
noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk
along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings
are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the
Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as
state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q291
rooms (212 doubles 150-235 €, 78 suites 300-450€).
PTHAUIFLGBKDCW
Kazbek H-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29
99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 90, info@kazbek.hr, www.
kazbekdubrovnik.com. This newly-opened hotel was built
in 1573 by the noble family Zamanja as their summer castle. It
was renovated in 2008 and still maintains its original beauty.
The hotel has 12 double rooms and one suite. All rooms are
of the highest quality with air-con, SAT & PAY TV, wireless
internet and other features; perfect for guests seeking privacy
and culture combined with modern facilities. 20 min from Old
City! Q13 rooms (12 singles €253 - 344, 12 doubles €288
- 393, 1 suite €390 - 519). PHA6LGKDCW
hhhhh
More F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49
42 00, fax (+385-20) 49 42 40, sales@hotel-more.hr,
www.hotel-more.hr. This cliff-hugging establishment on the
quiet side of Lapad bay offers the facilities of a blockbuster
hotel but with a significantly more intimate feel - here at
least you are unlikely to be stampeded by hundreds of other
holidaymakers whose faces the hotel staff can never quite
remember. The décor is slightly more individualistic too,
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
15

16 where to stAY
with mood-enhancing squiggly blue-green carpet motifs and
bronzey-coloured bedspreads. All rooms come with a trouserpress,
a comforting luxury to have by your bedside even if you
only treat it as a toy rather than using it properly. There is a
small kidney-shaped pool on one of the sea-facing terraces -
too small to seriously swim in but a nice touch nevertheless.
Breakfast in the café-restaurant on a lovely sea-facing
terrace. Q44 rooms (5 singles €150, 34 doubles €190, 2
Junior Suites €350, 2 Deluxe Suites €450, 1 Executive Suite
€600). PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh
Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put
3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20,
libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. This grandiose
cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally
ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages
before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved.
With full-sized trees in the lobby and cool minimalist design
throughout, it’s an impressive place. Rooms are decked out
in subdued beiges and whites, many featuring glass walled
bathrooms (so you can look seawards while showering).
The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from
a Turkish bath to chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that
can be filled with milk - if you’ve always dreamed of acting
out your Anthony-and-Cleopatra fantasies then you’ll
never have a better chance. The hotel’s impressively
large congress halls are situated right next door to the
24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship
between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit?
Q254 rooms (237 singles €190 - 255, 237 doubles €255
- 320, 16 suites €400 - 550, 1 Presidential Suite €2000).
PZOTHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh
Hotel Rixos
The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20)
32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, reception@
thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. A
breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old
Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken
the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic.The
staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful
approach. Q19 rooms (1 single €225 - 295, 16 doubles
€325 - 550, 1 suite €775 - 955, 1 Junior Suite €550 - 675).
PTJAR6LEGBKW hhhhh
Upmarket
Lapad H-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55,
fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.
hotel-lapad.hr. A grand old hotel that has recently received
a thorough dose of refurbishment, with rooms kitted out
with a fresh lick of paint and swanky new bathrooms. The
main nineteenth-century building is the kind of place in which
you can imagine Hercule Poirot tracking down high-society
murderers, although the modern annexe tacked on to the
back of the building is significantly less atmospheric. Located
opposite Gruž harbour, it is conveniently close to Lapad
beach. Q163 rooms (10 singles €107 - 197, 147 doubles
€104 - 244, 4 suites €208 - 366, 2 Junior Suites €172 - 330).
PHAULGBKCW hhhh
Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22
44, fax (+385-20) 32 12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com,
www.hotelstarigrad.com. This little antique treasure is
hidden in a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight
rooms are small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on
the roof terrace is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Q8
rooms (4 singles 1005 - 1350kn, 4 doubles 1440 - 1800kn).
PJA6UGBW hhhh
Hotel Lapad
Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80,
fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The brand new Uvala
exemplifies clean modern design, a philosophy echoed by
the wellness centre (offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and
a restaurant offering a full macrobiotic menu. Indoor and
outdoor pools, plus internet access in rooms and smallish
conference facilities making this a viable business option.
Q51 rooms (45 doubles €150 - 270, 6 triples €120 - 408).
PTHAIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh
Hostels
Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana
3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42
32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr,
www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is sadly
lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful and
can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen is at
your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and you
can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q 82 dorm beds,
17 - 19€ per person. ARBK
Fresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15,tel.(+385-
) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.
igotfresh.com. One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for
budget accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets
is run by a friendly well-travelled Canadian / Croatian
couple. Funky, characterful dorms, free breakfast and a
guesthouse atmosphere make this place a true jewel.
There’s a lively but not over-raucous bar and lounge,
evening film screenings, a backpackers’ book exchange,
and a list of suggested activities that includes the (highlyrecommended)
“walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”.
Hostel also offers private rooms, for more information
about prices contact the hostel. Q 20 dorm beds, 25 -
33€ per person. AGW
Vila Micika G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-
20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@
vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr. Whether you’re
travelling solo or in a large group, Vila Micika in Lapad can
cater from two to twenty. It has both rooms and dorms
that are clean and tidy. Rooms are equipped with air-con,
TV, showers and toilets. Travellers have free internet
access and it’s a measly 200m walk to the beach. Bars,
restaurants and a shopping center are all nearby. This is
budget accommodation at its best! Q 20 dorm beds,
23 - 29€ per person. PA6LGW
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Valamar Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 142,
tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 00,
reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. A shining
white Toblerone on the tip of the Babin kuk peninsula, this
remarkable modern edifice has oceans of glass offering
unimpeded views of the sea, the islands and the Blue Flag
beach outside. All rooms have sea views, the superior
rooms being particularly smart. Price for suite is available
upon request. Q180 rooms (180 doubles €130 - 290).
PTHARFLGBKDCwW hhhh
Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 34,
tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00,
reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com.
Meeting every expectation this hotel oozes spacious rooms
and suites, an indoor/outdoor pool, wellness treatments,
restaurants, cocktail bar and more. Buffet breakfast is huge!
State of the art architecture meets the natural Mediterranean
surroundings. Walking distance to beaches and a bus ride
to the old city, perfect for peace of mind. Price for suite is
available upon request. Q385 rooms (385 doubles €130 -
290). PHAFLGKDCwW hhhh
Mid-range
Aquarius G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45
61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.
net, www.hotel-aquarius.net. Recently given a makeover,
this three star hotel includes four apartments and a
further twenty rooms that have been garlanded with all the
necessities. Eat out on the restaurant terrace, relax in the bar
and choose from the diverse local and international cuisine.
It is only 350m from the beach and a mere 3km from the
historical city. Q24 rooms (8 singles €98, 8 doubles €134,
4 triples €187, 4 suites €158). PALBKW hhh
where to stAY
Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00,
fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com,
www.valamar.com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern
theme, and is only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana
beach, with a water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns
and little’uns happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool
with an ice cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles
€90 - 180). PTHARLEGBKCW hhh
Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20)
49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@
berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel
with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request
the wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in
style, free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to
mention excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is
located close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to
the islands; it’s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old City. Q24
rooms (20 doubles €90 - 165, 4 apartments €120 - 200).
PALGCW hhh
Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 10, tel. (+385-20) 43
35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@
hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A slightly
older, smaller hotel close to the centre of Lapad affords an
intimate atmosphere. Rooms overlook a rather lovely pool
area, and there’s great outdoor
seating for mealtimes. A wide
range of free time activities laid
on with a smile, and facilities for
small meetings. Q63 rooms (8
singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles
€74 - 180, 4 triples €104 - 252).
PTHA6LEBKC
W hhh
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
17

18 where to stAY
Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-
20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.
hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey
pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside
than it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms
decorated in blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer
an absolutely fascinating panorama of comings-and-goings
in Gruz harbour, and if you like downtown hotels with a sense
of urban bustle then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel’s
Taverna Nostromo offers a solid range of local food. Laptop
users rejoice: wifi coverage extends throughout the building.
Q104 rooms (8 singles €35 - 110, 96 doubles €80 - 210).
PHARIFLGBKW hhh
Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00,
fax (+385-20) 43 56 02, reservations@valamar.com,
www.valamar.com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or
modernist delight? But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit
is the bar in the middle of the pool where you can cool down
from without and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and
the famous Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208
doubles €90 - 180). PTHALGBKCW hhh
Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18,
tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 76 03,
reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. 338
rooms and only 150m from the beach. All you need is on site,
including restaurant services, pool facilities, entertainment
programmes, car parking, washing facilities and more.
22km from the airport and 150m from the bus stop. Ideal
for a family holiday. Q338 rooms (338 doubles €90 - 200).
PTALGBKC hhh
Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax
(+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com,
www.hotelimaestral.com. The high spot of the Vis is the
rather fine shingle beach with tables right by the water’s
edge where you can indulge in sensory pleasures from the
Lido restaurant and bar right into the evening. A mid-sized
Mata Vodopića 8, 20000 Dubrovnik - Croatia
Tel: + 385 20 456 112, Fax: +385 20 456 100
e-mail: sales@hotel-aquarius.net;
web: www.hotel-aquarius.net
modern affair aimed at families, spick and span and rather
friendly. Prices are per person. Q151 rooms (9 singles
€46 - 108, 136 doubles €82 - 182, 6 triples €122 - 255).
PTHALEGBKW hhh
Budget
Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35
20, fax (+385-20) 43 35 30, adriatic@hotelimaestral.
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good sized gym and clay
tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two star hotel, and an
additional host of activities (fancy sea kayaking?) make this
a good option for sporty types. Decent, clean and friendly
accommodation in leafy surroundings on the Lapad peninsula.
Q108 rooms (9 singles €40 - 80, 82 doubles €68 - 148, 17
triples €68 - 148). PA6FLEGBK hh
Islands
Hotel Glavović Obala Ivana Kuljevana bb, Lopud, tel.
(+385-20) 75 93 59, fax (+382-20) 75 93 58, info@
hotel-glavovic.hr, www.hotel-glavovic.hr. Run by a family
with a century long tradition as hoteliers on this island and
newly reopened in 2004 after full renovation, this lovely stone
house in the heart of the promenade on Lopud offers excellent
quality accommodation, and has a good restaurant. Q14
rooms (12 doubles €100 - 120, 2 apartments €150 - 180).
PABK hhh
Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20)
72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr,
www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the
centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st
century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has
a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms
are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows
is spectacular. Q20 rooms (13 doubles €50 - 80, 7 triples
€50 - 80). PABK hhh
Experience
the true harmony
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

where to stAY
Visit Dubrovnik Sun Gardens award winning Spa, and spend your cold winter afternoons in a variety of indulgent
treatments, hydrotherapy pool with therapeutic massage jets , traditional coal and salt sauna, hammam, aromatherapy
steam room and much more.
For more active leisure time choose between a range of facilities from our comprehensive sports and recreation centre
-a-side football pitch.
Villas Koločep Donje čelo bb, Koločep, tel. (+385-
20) 75 70 25, fax (+385-20) 75 70 27, reservations@
kolocep.com, www.kolocep.com. The original Croatian
name of this hotel is ‘Vile Koločep’ but suppress your sniggers,
this collection of eight three-storey villas set among olive
trees makes an ideal laid-back island retreat. Rooms are neat
and tidy with tiled floors, minibar, flat-screen TVs and desk
space, and Koločep’s sandy beach is mere a stone’s throw
away. Q149 rooms (9 singles €110, 81 doubles €160, 23
triples €240, 21 Familiy Rooms €270, 15 Junior Suites €320).
PTJHABKCW hhh
Villa Vilina Obala Iva Kuljevana 5, Lopud, tel. (+385-20)
75 93 33, fax (+385-20) 75 90 60, villa.vilina@gmail.
com, www.villa-vilina.hr. The last word in elegance, this
villa by Lopud’s Franciscan monastery and a tiny sandy beach
has been beautifully renovated in a blend of traditional and
contemporary styles to offer superb, well-equipped rooms and
apartments and a lovely restaurant and terrace. Supremely
relaxing - and friendly. Q15 rooms (12 doubles €120 - 190,
3 Junior Suites €155 - 309). PAGBKCW hhhh
Out of town
Indijan Škvar 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 45 55,
fax (+385-20) 71 45 67, indijan@indijan.hr, www.
hotelindijan.hr. This family hotel is perfectly positioned
with beachfront views and picturesque mountains in its
surroundings. Furbished rooms have all the amenities a 4
star hotel could ever offer. Friendly staff organise island tour
packages to assist visitors. A family restaurant, terrace,
swimming pool and spa are just some of its other features.
Q16 rooms (3 singles €71 - 105, 11 doubles €111 - 201,
2 apartments €151 - 241). PAFLGKDCW
hhhh
www.inyourpocket.com
www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik
www.dubrovniksungardens.com
Plat Hotels and Villas Plat 47, Mlini, tel. (+385-20)
48 90 00, fax (+385-20) 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat.
hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr. Located 12km south of Dubrovnik
and walking distance to the beach.New apartments are
available for 2 to 3 people with your own kitchen and bath
facilities. Car park included.Don’t miss the in-house Taverna
Plat a-la-carte restaurant which cooks up delicious traditional
gourmet dishes. Q236 rooms (129 doubles €90 - 180, 107
apartments €90 - 220). PAFLGBKCW hhh
Radissonblu Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac, tel.
(+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, info.
dubrovnik@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/
resort-dubrovnik. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with
this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the
Old City. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe
apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants
offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines;
the Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury
wellness centre includes out of this world thermal facilities.
Q 408 rooms (178 doubles from 250€, 207 Suites
from 300€, 20 Junior Suites from 450€, 2 Executive
Suites from 1500€, 1 Presidential Suite from 3000 €).
PZTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
19

20 restAurAnts
Croatian
Bistro Glorijet H-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel.
(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@
gmail.com. Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll
find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned
into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible
prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals
as a good lunch spot. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(60 - 130kn). PAG
Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63
19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr.
Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls
of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes
throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza
Brsalje with Nautika (both
restaurants have the same
owners as Proto, Mimoza
and Konavoski Dvori), and
has a splendid view of the
Lovrijenac, Minčeta and
Bokar fortresses, and a peek
of the deep blue beyond the
walls. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
(55 - 150kn). PAUGB
Karaka D-2, Old City
Harbour, tel. (+385-) 091
660 00 05/(+385-) 091
358 18 88, booking@
karaka.info, www.karaka.
info. End a perfect summer’s day with a meal at sundown on
a replica 16th century merchant ship just as they were made
right here in Dubrovnik. It’s all in wood, rather luxurious, and
the menu is just great - don’t miss local cured ham (pršut)
and cheese. Q June 15 - September 5 Open 19:30 - 22:00.
(60 - 120kn). AGB
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino 6 Animal friendly
R Internet B Outside seating
Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36,
info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin.
com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient
weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your
meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod
peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (60 - 110kn). PALGB
Lady Pi Pi C-1, Peline bb. Wine and dine whilst overlooking
the grand walls of Dubrovnik and sea. Large platters for fish
and meat devotees are jammed with goodies and the food
is cooked in front of you on an outdoor terrace with an open
fire. The cuisine is freshly prepped and prices are fair. Q
May Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. June - September
30 Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. Closed October.
(65 - 150kn). JAB
Mimoza J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20)
41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.
hr. In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100
meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle
your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly
without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded
partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on
meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes.
Delivery is available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).
PTAEGB
Caught by the In Your Pocket team!
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/
(+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan.com,
www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny
harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set
in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s
terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic
Croatian cooking at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.
(50 - 140kn). PJAGB
Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala
Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel
Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41
05 24/(+385-20) 41 05 25,
info@petka.hr, www.croatiavacation.com.
The food here
is the subject of much praise
among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and
the service is fantastic. The
taverna has a casual feel while the
restaurant upstairs is the essence
of modern refinement. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 120kn).
PAGB
Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04
84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky
south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant
15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe
is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food
on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pureand-simple
there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country
recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with
sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus
mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PALGB
International
Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel.
(+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather
pleasant Mexican sits eccentrically just uphill from the Ploče
gates and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos,
tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and
pasta. Try the piquant sausages and a black pancake to finish
off with! Q Open 17:00 - 23:00. June 15 - September 15 Open
14:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PVNBS
Domino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel.
(+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, www.
steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre for
carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The
outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun
is especially lovely in hot weather. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(80 - 140kn). PAGB
Bakeries
Galeta C/D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 3, tel. (+385-
20) 32 10 89. Their sweet and savoury pastries are
satisfyingly buttery and moreish. Try an apple (jabuka)
or frankfurter (hrenovka) wrapped in puff pastry. QOpen
06:30 - 22:00.
Klas I-3, Pera Ćingrije 10, tel. (+385-20) 33 16 13.
This bakery offers everything you need to survive late
night munchies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Rusica I-2, Andrije Hebranga 54, tel. (+385-20) 41
13 42. Crusty loaves to go with those fishes, plus pizza
and “burek” filo pastry pies too. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Zlatno zrno I-3, Iva Vojnovića 63b, tel. (+385-20)
33 11 20. A place where you can eat pizza, pancerotta,
“burek”, but also delicious cakes all day and all night long!
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
restAurAnts
Lucin kantun B-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32
10 03. “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun,
all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a
rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.
He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s
a nice selection of desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20 -
150kn). JAB
Magellan I-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35
94/(+385-) 095 908 37 41, restoran.magellan@yahoo.
com. The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the
natural light that floods through huge windows on all four
sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in
modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most
important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made;
everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is
first-class. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (52 - 122kn). PAGB
Oyster & Sushi bar D-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-
20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. A seafood fiesta is on
hand with oysters, prawns, salmon, tuna and a whole lot more
to choose. The chefs do a scintillating job by making Japanese
style sushi for those wanting a breather from Mediterranean
delights. Not overly priced but staff are overly nice. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. (24 - 135kn). PJAGBXW
Porat K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial
Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, sales.dubrovnik@
hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Decked out in
minimalist style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the
lobby of the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in
the light, bright conservatory or the large summer terrace).
Fabulous, Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out
for the head chef’s signature dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
(100 - 250kn). PJAGBX
Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole
Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20)
32 32 21/(+385-) 099
323 22 12, kucaedo@
du.t-com.hr. You guessed it,
the Old Town’s only Bosnian
restaurant, where you can
enjoy good grilled meats
including ćevapi - shish
kebab. Try one of the pite
pies (we love the spinach
one). Sweet tooths will love
baklava, others will fall
into a sugar-induced coma!
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40
- 115kn). AGB
Taverna Otto I-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86
33, tavernaotto@net.hr, www.tavernaotto.com. This
charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a
French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks
to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We
especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna
steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose,
you can’t go wrong. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00.
(70 - 99kn). AGB
Konoba
Blidinje H-2, Lapadska obala 21, tel. (+385-20) 35 87
94. You feel that ‘Dalmatian’ sparkle here with its old stony
walls embellished by ancient artefacts. The restaurant is
casual and snug, whilst the terrace offers picturesque views
of the Gruž harbour, bay and surrounding hills. Situated in the
heart of the Lapad peninsula, the meat and seafood dishes
are local delights, and here they are baked under a metal
bell, covered with hot ash which produces a delectable roast.
Reasonably priced and nicely spiced! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 95kn). PAGB
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
21

22 restAurAnts
Jezuite C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-
) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@gmail.com, www.
dubrovnikrestaurant.com. Tucked away from the big crowds
where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint
Ignatius Church. Choose from a balanced choice of fish and
meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is
typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 150kn). JAB
Linđo F-2, Iva Dulčića bb (Mali Stradun), tel. (+385-) 098
131 90 98, lindjokonoba@gmail.com. Family restaurant
with celebrated traditional home goodies on the menu, hence
fresh salads, seafood and a fair range of meats, especially the
age old ritual of roast under the iron pot. Simple and subtle,
head towards the President Hotel Resort and it is part of
the accompanying retail complex. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 150kn). PAGBXW
Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20)
32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned
in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour,
offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried
small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to
wait for a table. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. July, August Open
11:00 - 01:00. (61 - 80kn). PAGBX
Pjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-20) 42 09 49.
Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you
come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their
advice and you might just get something a little out of the
ordinary - real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under
an iron bell. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). AGBX
Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55,
www.pupodubrovnik.com. Compact and bijou, this konoba
offers a limited menu of well-prepared home style fish dishes
and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the
Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the
cosy, jolly atmosphere. They serve breakfast. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. (60 - 180kn). JAGBXW
Rozario D-2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-
) 099 315 65 50, marin.vuletic@du.t-com.hr, www.
konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip,
this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its
family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why
you’ll often find the locals lunching here. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (70 - 125kn). PAGBX
Light bites
Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10
96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun
where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as
pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices.
Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.
QOpen 08:30 - 01:00. (21 - 27kn). PJNG
Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-
20) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled
in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk
offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. QOpen
08:00 - 02:00.
Tutto Bene C-3, Od Puča
7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53,
www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.
com. A refreshing discovery
for those looking for something
quick and tasty to munch: this
modern little fast food joint has
a super selection of sandwiches,
tacos, burgers and pizzas as
well as French fries and dips -
yummy! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
(15 - 35kn). JA
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Mediterranean
Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila
bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, marketing@ew-dubrovnik.
com, www.ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by
the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far
East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches
and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a
strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A
classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 125kn).
PJALGB
Nautika A-2, Brsalje 3,
tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26,
sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.
esculap-teo.hr. The place to
splash out in style - a wonderful
terrace overlooking the bay by
the Pile gate, and a rather grand
interior - your smelly trainers
may raise an eyebrow or two.
Imaginative cuisine inspired by
your maritime surroundings.
Expensive, but definitely in a
class of its own in Dubrovnik
dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(257 - 398kn). PJAGB
Oliva Gourmet C-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32
40 76, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www.olivadubrovnik.
com. This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the
narrow streets of the old town. The attractive interior is
decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here
they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 11:00 - 24:00.
(90 - 135kn). JB
restAurAnts
Panorama K,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20)
31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com.
hr. Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable
car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right
by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a
spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food
is excellent. Bring your sunglasses! Q June - August 31 Open
09:00 - 24:00. September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00.
(70 - 158kn). PAGBXW
Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76,
kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The
terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot
to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or
salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music
in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 170kn). PJAEGBW
Renaissance C-2, Vara bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 99,
renaissance@du.t-com.hr, www.renaissance-restaurantdubrovnik.com.
Light, Mediterranean meals with value-formoney
lunch and dinner menus. The whole ceiling is hand
decorated in floral motifs in shades of gold and red, while
this rich style is complemented with photos of old Dubrovnik
and the local saying Non bene pro toto libertas venditus auro
(Freedom is not sold for even all the gold of the world). QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150). PAEGB
Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29
10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame.hr. An
Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music
and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes
orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill
sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and
pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PAGBW
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
23

24 restAurAnts
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

estAurAnts
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
25

26 restAurAnts
Taverna Maslina
F-3, Masarykov put 20
(Dubrovnik Palace Hotel),
tel. (+385-20) 43 03 57/
(+385-20) 43 00 00,
www.dubrovnikpalace.
hr. The coolest design
hotel in Dubrovnik has
an elegant restaurant
with sea views and
stylish poolside seating.
The cuisine is excellent:
Dalmatian specialities
with a contemporary twist,
and light Mediterranean
tastebud-tinglers. Grilled
chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime treat. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (135 - 250kn). ALEGBXW
Vapor I-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88,
www.hotel-bellevue.hr. The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is
perfectly located near the city centre and commands an
amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes
Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious
diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy
the more refined tongue. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 250kn).
PAGBXW
Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/
(+385-) 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com,
www.wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’
back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with
tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and
cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional
cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect
quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance
from Stradun. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 290kn). PGB
Out of town
Adio Mare Ulica Marca Pola 1, Korčula town, tel.
(+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 24 38 45. Whether it’s
the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great
charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song,
Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the
one with the queue waiting for a table! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). PJAGBX
www.inyourpocket.com
Breakfast
Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32
12 29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great
surroundings. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (34 - 56kn). AB
Komarda K,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31
13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39, restorankomarda@
gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Get the day off to a
good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast
on everything from toast and croissants through rožata
(the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg
dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s breakfasts
- all at reasonable prices. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. (12 -
50kn). AB
Orlando C,D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 73,
sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. A perfect
spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three
tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun.
Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can
treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs,
fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due
to the prime location. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. JAB
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TERACE WITH BEAUTIFUL SEE VIEW.
FIND US IN BABIN KUK PENINSULA IN THE MIDLE
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TEL: +385 20 413454
+385 989798125
EMAIL: lindjokonoba@gmail.com

Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31.
The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is
the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean
over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great
for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this
little village just north of Dubrovnik. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 200kn). ABW
Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75
44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.
com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova
kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned
stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more
modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters,
this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing
the cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(70 - 200kn). PALGB
Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66,
mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong
selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks,
plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey
and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough!
This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and
is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW
Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20)
75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr,
www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia
Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a
crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly
in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by
sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto
and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(60 - 100kn). PALGBXW
restAurAnts
Ice cream and cakes
Homemade Icecream,
Ana-Marija Bujić
Dolce vita C-2,
Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-
20) 32 16 66. This colourful
little spot does great cakes,
muffins and ice cream - among
the best in town - just off Stradun.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNB
GradsKavana D-3, Pred
Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32
12 02 / press 2, sales@meaculpa.hr,
www.mea-culpa.hr.
The excellent city coffee house,
for many years a cult meeting
place, has a superb collection
of cakes. We particularly like the
macaroni cake with walnuts and
the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is
excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
PJAB
Sugar&Spice B-3, Sv. Josipa 5, tel. (+385-
20) 32 40 39,/(+385-) 091 361 95 50, www.
sugarandspicedubrovnik.com. Every once in a while
most of us surrender to a craving and this small temple
of sweet and salty Croatian homemade delicious cakes,
tarts and souvenirs is just the haven needed. It is
located in the tranquil part of the Old Town, just beside
the Stradun where you can sit on the terrace and indulge
in coffee or anything your taste buds desire. Q June,
September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August
Open 09:00 - 23:00. A
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
27

28 restAurAnts
Konavoski dvori Ljuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79
10 39/(+385-) 098 35 78 62, sales@esculap-teo.hr,
www.esculap-teo.hr. Tables are scattered in thick woods
watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the
millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes
(and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume.
You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBX
Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel.
(+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com. Set
in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a
fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour:
try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers
or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple
strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBX
Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini,
tel. (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@
du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying
the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into
Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables
set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and
local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a
supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn).
ALGB
Leut Trumbićev put 17, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84
77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.com,
www.restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try
quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront
in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned
among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it
comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(70 - 250kn). PAGBX
www.inyourpocket.com
Obala Obala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20)
75 91 70, obala@du.t-com.hr. There can be few better
places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala,
set right on Lopud’s waterfront with a trio of stately palm
trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and
seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based
alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes.
Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping
sea-water are on the house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (150 -
300kn). PAGBX
Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-
20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www.
gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach
and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food
since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto
(an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass
that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(80 - 160kn). ALGBX
Spinaker Frankopanska 10 (Hotel
Croatia), Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47
55 55, www.hotelcroatia.hr. Ahoy
matey! Sea food lovers pay attention
as this newly renovated restaurant
offers delicious locally caught fish
and grill specialties as inspired by
Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine.
Find yourself tucked away along the
seashore with splendid views of the
Cavtat bay; the fresh breeze and the
sound of waves are a stone throw
away. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60 -
210kn). ANBX
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Triton Zaklopatica bb,
Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80
11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80
65, konoba-triton@du.t-com.
hr, www.triton.hr. A frequent
stop on yachting trips: there’s a
mooring right outside the house,
and father / chef / fisherman
Tonči has a very special way
with island-grown capers. Fish
carpaccio, marinated anchovy
fillets, octopus salad, home
made Mediterranean herb rakija
- it’s all the stuff of dreams!
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 -
200kn). NGBXW
Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1,
Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42
33, fax (+385-20) 75 46 42, vila-koruna@du.t-com.hr,
www.vila-koruna.hr. The restaurant is known for its pristine
oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On
offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished
with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush
and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail.
Q8 rooms (3 doubles €92, 2 triples €115, 1 quad €136).
PJHALBKW hhhh
Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel.
(+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com,
www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family
run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local
freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage
doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of
traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef
in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50
- 120kn). PALGBX
restAurAnts
Villa Ruža Donje Čelo bb, Koločep, tel. (+385-20) 75 70
30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, info@villa-ruza.com, www.
villa-ruza.com. The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable
as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that
local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped
stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a haven.
Chock a block selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 170kn). ABX
Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula,
tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-
) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@
du.t-com.hr, www.zure.hr. If
you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine
sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t
miss a meal at this rather special
place. The owners catch, rear and
grow everything that lands on
your table. The food is excellent,
and the pomegranate rakija a
unique experience! QOpen 18:00
- 24:00. (60 - 120kn). AGBX
Pizza
Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20)
32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the first
pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy!
QOpen 10:00 - 2:30. (25 - 80kn). PNGBXSW
Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30,
meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves up
a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit
iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for
ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood
pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. (27 - 70kn). PJAGBS
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
29

30 restAurAnts
Wine bars
D’vino C-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11
30, info@dvino.net, www.dvino.net. In a narrow street
just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling
local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try
from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and
tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-sozzled
conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with
wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as
prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a
bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation. QOpen 09:00 -
02:00. AB
Froggy flavours
Marko Sirovina
The culinary repertoire of inland Dalmatia has always
reserved a special role for the frog (žaba). Traditionally
considered a staple of working families, frogs’ legs are
now something of a delicacy, and urban foodies from Split
and Zagreb will make special trips to provincial konobe to
seek out the best frog recipes.
In the Cetina region (Cetinska Krajina) inland from
Split, frogs’ legs are usually fried in breadcrumbs or
boiled with potatoes. The provincial town of Trilj is a
popular gastronomic destination with two outstanding
restaurants, the Lovac (021/ 831 268) and the Čaporice
in the Sveti Mihovil hotel (021/831 770. In the Dubrovnik
region, the reedy Neretva Delta is simply slithering
with frogs and eels, and many of the local konobe have
become cult destinations for devotees of swamp food.
Konoba Vrilo in the village of Prud or Suđurađ i Mate in
the village of Vid (both just outside the town of Metković),
are the places to aim for.
www.inyourpocket.com
Oliva D-3, Lučarica
5, tel. (+385-20) 32
45 94. In an alleyway
behind the Stradun,
Oliva seems slightly
more authentic than
some of the other
pizzerias in town,
as if a bit more
thought has gone
into the quality of
the ingredients that
go on top of the pie.
Pizzas come in sizes
of either small (i.e.
just about sufficient
for one person) or
large - the larger ones
being big enough to
feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming
you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas
and takeaway service also available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(40 - 90kn). PAGBXW
Seafood
Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20)
32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for
its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices.
It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of
Mr Gundulić. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (58 - 110kn). ABS
Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, sales@
esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little
brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful
location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but
meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience
and friendly service make this a strong contender for
top dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn).
PAGB
YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22,
ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s
yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable
spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately
enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks
the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW
Vegetarian
Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@
nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com.
Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small
haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from
all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese.
Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of
thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make
sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out
on the joke. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ABS
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Culinary art
Meet Ana-Marija Bujić: she’s from Dubrovnik, and apart
from being a teacher and translator of French and English
she’s also a food blogger. Her blog, Da mi je nešto
slatko… (“If I had something sweet…”) has won an award
as the best Croatian blog.
In Croatia the food blog scene is rapidly developing, and
you can find blogs that are written in both Croatian and
English. The bloggers’ community, made up of people of
all callings and age groups, has a fair number of treasures,
not just great recipes but people who as well as being
foodies are great travel writers, telling many a tale along
the way. We first met Ana-Marija when she was still a
student who loved nothing more than baking biscuits and
cakes. Today she’s a queen of the culinary art.
Why not spend a moment with Ana-Marija yourself? She’ll
share a few secrets of the Dubrovnik kitchen…
DIYP: “If I had something sweet...” How did you come up
with that name?
Ana-Marija: It was a spontaneous thing: the phrase was
going round and round in my head so I decided that would
be the best name!
DIYP: You grew up in Dubrovnik. Can you tell us about
some of your memories of the city as a child? And how
do you see Dubrovnik today?
Ana-Marija: Well, I’m not exactly ancient, but the old
city has changed a lot since my childhood days. When
I was little, the old city was still full of real life. It was a
place where local people went for a stroll, to meet their
friends, and it was a place where they actually lived. The
old city centre was full of shops. You could see people
criss-crossing Stradun, hurrying to get somewhere, and
behind the green shutters on Stradun there were peoples’
homes, not rental apartments and souvenir shops. Now
everything is much more oriented towards tourism and
visitors, there are great differences between the pace of
life in the summer and in the winter. Within the city walls
there is practically no life at all - everyone has moved to
other parts of the city.
DIYP: Ana-Marija, when was the first time you tried to
make a meal which was your own recipe, and what was it?
Ana-Marija: Believe me, I can’t remember! I didn’t
consider it was a moment to remember, that’s probably
why I’ve forgotten.
restAurAnts
DIYP: What do you like best about your mother’s and
your grandmother’s cooking? Are there any traditional
dishes you would recommend to people who want a real
Dubrovnik gastronomic experience?
Ana-Marija: My mother and grandmother will absolutely
not compromise when it comes to ingredients: everything
must be fresh and bought from trusted sources. Then
it’s easy to turn these tasty ingredients into even more
delicious food. Both my mother and grandmother are great
cooks, and I love the fact that when I close my eyes I can
exactly bring to mind the flavours and aromas of their
food. Anyone who wants to sample real Dubrovnik cuisine
mustn’t miss zelena menestra (cabbage greens stewed
with smoked meats) in winter; in spring there’s asparagus
with boiled eggs; in summer barbecued fish with a little
rosemary served with boiled potatoes and chard, and in
winter bitter orange marmalade.
DIYP: Is there a traditional Dubrovnik recipe that you’ve
published which has turned out particularly well?
Ana-Marija: It’s difficult because they’re all so different,
but if I had to choose one it would be buhtle (soft bread
rolls with sweet or cheese fillings). I love all kinds of pastry,
but these cakes have the real scent of home.
DIYP: Do you have any insiders’ tips for people visiting
Dubrovnik?
Ana-Marija: Yes, lots of them! Oliva Gourmet if you love
Mediterranean fusion; Proto and Orsan for fish, and the
little restaurant Ništa for vegetarians.
DIYP: What’s your favourite place in town for a cup of
coffee and a cake?
Ana-Marija: Believe it or not, I don’t drink coffee so I’m not
at all qualified to answer that part, but for good cake I can
recommend that you seek out the cake shop Sugar and
Spice in Ulica sv. Josipa. They have never disappointed me.
DIYP: Finally, can you give us a short and sexy recipe for
our readers for this summer?
Ana-Marija: In the right company, even the most ordinary
recipe can be sexy, but my suggestion is pancakes with
chilled mascarpone cream and caramel - you can’t go
wrong.
Photographs and an interview with Ana-Marija
Bujić, Dubrovnik’s gem food blogger as she offers
specialties and tip top recommendations in our
Restaurants section.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
31

32 CAFés
In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply
not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato.
This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving
outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around
here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee
usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are
available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela
kava (white coffee).
Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3. Among the many little cafés
tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our
favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place
where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
PBX
Biker’s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-)
091 764 69 19, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.hr, www.
bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourghood just
above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up
with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will
try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PNB
Blue Planet G-2, Masarykov put 3. Calling mums and
dads: the Blue Planet is unadulterated heaven for you and
your tribe. There are special kiddies’ toilets, a case full of
picture books, a Nintendo Wii and non-stop cartoons on the
TV, as well as coffee, sandwiches, cakes and salads for your
devouring pleasure. Also breakfast on offer. QOpen 07:30 -
23:30. PTNBW
Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. In the heart of
Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari
from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show
going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGB
Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo.
sanje@du.t-com.hr. This coffee house right on Stradun is
the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to
chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a
well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location
couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB
Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes
stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from
Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady
tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its
youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.
PAGB
www.inyourpocket.com
Glam Café C-2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com.
If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as
coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the
evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good
start with one of their range of cocktails. QOpen 08:30 -
02:00. JBW
GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32
12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.
hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and
the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine
architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful
modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try
the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 -
01:00. PJAGB
Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60,
brigita.mrkic@gmail.com. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t
be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just
above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music
(commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica
(herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends
during high season. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. PBX
Living Room I-2, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-20)
31 22 03/(+385-) 091 567 26 32. A café/bar that is
comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat
amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well
known for its fine coffee. Q June - September 15 Open 07:00
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. September 16 - October 31 Open
07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW
Porto Put Bruna Bušića 6, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 23 32
34. It’s a hop out of town in the village of Srebreno (you can
get there on the bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern
space which serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar
with dancing by night has proved to be very popular with local
trendseters at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGBX
Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More) F-2, Kardinala
Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00,
sales@hotel-more.hr, www.hotel-more.hr. This natural
cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the
human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar.
No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are
accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail
and give rein to your imagination! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Talir C-2, Antuninska bb. A classy spot to sup your coffee
amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not
enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings,
you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. PB
Špilja bar More (Cave bar More)
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

CAFés

Bars
Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 65
(+385-) 098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.
mea-culpa.hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop
for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized
wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by
midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge
in a spot of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or
combination. Spectacular. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. PAB
Art K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail.
com. Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll
discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from
old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha
ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and
smoothies all in one small but perfect package. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. B
Buža D-4, Outside the city
walls near St.Stephen’s tower,
tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/
(+385-) 098 36 19 34. What
a place to sit - rocky terraces
overlooking the open sea south of
the Old Town. There’s no running
water here so bottled drinks only
- which are pretty pricey - but the
Eugen Miljan
Culture Club Revelin
laid back music and hedonistic
mood make up for everything.
Q June - September 30 Open 08:30 - 03:00. October Open
according to weather conditions. B
Capitano K-3, Između vrta 2, tel. (+385-) 098 36 64
70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after
which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and
shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial
dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth
dressed to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PB
nightLiFe
Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the
Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to
rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll
need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW
None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99
09, info@nonenina.com, www.nonenina.com. A perfect
spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite
the Rector’s Palace - you can see people climbing about on
the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes
the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy
people. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PENB
Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first floor
of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible
from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff.
Has one computer which is free to use. Altogether a good
atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
PENXW
SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220
20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Administering a much-needed
dose of urban eating and drinking culture to the Old Town,
this newly opened café-cum-diner and lounge bar has settled
quickly into its own niche. Expect to find both local beer
and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and
an attractively-priced list of cocktails. There’s an excellent
choice of upscale pub
fodder in the shape of
salads, burgers and
steaks. Blending slate
grey, soothing whites
and mood-enhancing
purples, the interior
is smart and slinky
without being overdone.
If the delightfully dotty
abstract mosaic on the
back wall starts revolving
in front of your eyes,
though, it’s probably
time you were in bed.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
PAEBW
Boats
Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. (+385-) 091 660 00
05/(+385-) 091 358 18 88, booking@karaka.info, www.
karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this beautiful
replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of the 16th
century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s not
carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. Q June
15 - September 5 Open 19:30 - 22:00. A
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
35

36 nightLiFe
Antun Tony Zupanac, Chui
Casinos
Golden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel
Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@
major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Feeling lucky? Then
visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It
offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the
newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas
Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night
from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and
lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you
up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at
Golden Sun Casino! QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.
Clubs
Culture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort
Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61/(+385-) 091 250
25 88, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.
com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used
to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home
to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often
jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international
music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and
its seaside views. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. A
Eastwest beach club L-5, Frana Supila 4, tel. (+385-
20) 41 22 20, marketing@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.ewdubrovnik.com.
The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers
come to perfect their tans, since East West rents out funky
loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi
polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing
‘til The Man says go home. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PAB
www.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70,
clubfuego@gmail.com, www.dubrovniknightclub.com.
A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often
find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream
rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights
when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares?
QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNB
Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila 8, arl@du.htnet.hr, www.
arl.hr. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine
house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground
nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An
international multimedia festival is held here, which includes
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.
QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
Orlando J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, tel. (+385-20) 31
26 74/(+385-) 098 192 77 60, klub_umo@yahoo.com.
A multi-talented organisation organising excellent live bands,
DJ appearances, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions and
much much more, leaning towards the alternative stream of
culture. Check out the club’s Fecebook page for what’s on.
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.
Lounge bars
Culto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer
heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is
its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere.
Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly
crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PABX
Victoria L-2, Frana Supila 14 (Grand Villa Argentina),
tel. (+385-20) 44 05 55, www.victoria-restaurant.
com. Oozes class, classical architecture, quality service
and contemporary ambience. Above all, the European menu
nightLiFe
concept changes with the seasons and focuses on local
delights, organic products and fresh ingredients. With a
majestic view that overlooks the Old City and a wine list that
tingles the pallet, a gastronomic experience of elegance and
panache waits. Q Open 18:00 - 01:00 and depending on
weather conditions. AEK
Pubs
Arch Pub C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90,
archpub@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikpub.com. As the
name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral.
One of the rare places playing music other than house and
mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of
stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep
ordering those Irish beers they keep. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
PJENBXW
Gaffe Pub C-3, Miha Pracata 4. The distinctive aroma,
the big wooden bar and the wall decorations all announce
one thing: this is an Irish pub. There are three big screens
where you can watch football, rugby and cricket: a list to the
left of the entrance door lets you know what’s on. Apart from
Guinness, Kilkenny and Irish coffee, there’s a great selection
of breakfasts served from 9:00 to 11:30 in summer. Out of
season, you can pick up a light lunch here from 10:00 to
15:00. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JB
Katie O’Connor’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel.
(+385-20) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@
du.t-com.hr. Brand new in 2006 but managing to look
centuries old, this delightful stone cellar in one of the streets
leading north of Stradun is a decent spot to drink. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PABX
www.inyourpocket.com
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
37

38
whAt to see
Dubrovnik justifiably invites hyperbole - every corner in the
Old Town, in its entirey a UNESCO World Heritage site, has
spellbinding charm and tells many a story. Although the
city dates back to the 7th century, many buildings were
devastated in a terrible earthquake in 1667, and were rebuilt
resulting in the rather harmonious style you see today. The
architects of Dubrovnik included the best of the Croatian
masters, including Juraj Dalmatinac (also responsible for
the cathedral at Šibenik and the entire town of Pag) in
combination with masters from Venice, Dubrovnik’s main
rival and trading partner. Architectural beauty is perhaps a
cause of a deep immersion in the arts that manifests itself
in galleries and festivals.
Essential Dubrovnik
Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)
D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 23. The
Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th
century, and with the building of their monastery a century
later, they became an important part of the city’s defences
- the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town,
vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone
steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades
have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout
ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position,
from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel
of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick
carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery
church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof
and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery,
like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection
of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great
earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been
invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old
Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano
and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and
19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 18:00. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Admission 20kn.
Lokrum Island L-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www.
lokrum.hr. You don’t have to travel far to experience the
tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15
minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim.
The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket
of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake
which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the
east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented
by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the
monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently
by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in
Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph
built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a
botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a
Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped
fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great
views. Q Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on
the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore
we suggest you contact the office for further information. A
return ticket costs 50kuna.
Stradun, Placa B/C-2. When talking about finding
your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to
Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the
unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two
main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and
Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada,
meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the
uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the
best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump
into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress
up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks
the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts
of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land
south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock,
since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came
Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably
been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it
was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees
from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the
land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement was
called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel
was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun,
and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.
The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3,
Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is
perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting
four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local
artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show.
A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a
fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by
Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor
of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to
the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old
Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting
for some of the most important events of the life of the
city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the
Slaven Tolj, Art Gallery Dubrovnik Archives 2006. – 2008.
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40 whAt to see
Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a
concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision
contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages
can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00,
16:00 - 18:00. No admission.
The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates
(Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile,
Vrata od Ploča), www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost
two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among
the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and
a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were
built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that
on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows
their primary purpose as defence against attack from the
mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example,
lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened
by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached -
the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies
were invited in on condition that they would respect its
independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east
and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town,
provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for
concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac
is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with
traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under
the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to
Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time
used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland
with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot.
The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized
battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s
fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart
from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and
character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces.
From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone
bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled
with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll
see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. Q June - July
31 Open 08:00 - 19:30. August - September 15 Open 08:00
- 19:00. September 16 - October 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00.
Admission 30 - 70kn.
The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and
the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara
apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32
14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.hr.
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an
absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes,
and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange
trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy,
among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working.
The monastery houses a museum where you can see original
items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with
notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of
the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the
Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height.
The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a
real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00
and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.
The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom
3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. One of the loveliest buildings
in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the
Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just
one month confining him to these quarters which he could only
leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building
changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder
stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to
the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and
Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations
were added in baroque style in the 17th century following
the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio
della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in
gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly
romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade
with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful
courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is
now a museum where you can view the richly appointed offices
and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and
prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the
period are all on display. Q Admission 25 - 70kn.
Museums
Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) Bukovčeva 5,
Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, muzej@kuca-bukovac.
hr, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. See works by Vlaho Bukovac
(1855-1922), one of the most famous modern Croatian
painters, in the setting of his charming Cavtat home. Part
of the house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young
artists, offering an invigorating counterpoint. Q Open 09:00
- 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 20kn.
precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical Dubrovnik Natural History Museum
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni
muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.
Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872
when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with
a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the
private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac.
The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not
appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot
too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for
hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions which
currently include photography by the Croatian Biospeliological
Sociaty of the cave life of the Dubrovnik region. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free
Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej
Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe”
is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in
this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported
grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating
building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic,
cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk
costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region
where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 25 - 70kn.
Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John’s
fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04.
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the
growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s
most important museums. The display of models of the
fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy
tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were
used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the
Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is
housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25 - 70kn.
Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene
povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. (+385-
20) 32 48 56. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering
documentation on contemporary history since World War Two,
including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can
see all their exhibitions in the Rector’s Palace. The museum
doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.
The Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)
B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 41,
arheoloski.muzej@dumus.hr. The Archeological museum
currently does not have a permanent residence, and some
of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see
objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the
Old Town, including fragments of early Romanesque churches
featuring the attractive plaitwork typical of Dalmatia. A
prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the
Pelješac peninsula. The museum doesn’t have a permanent
display but occasional exhibitions.
The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)
B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32
32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic
town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić
only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian
literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a
wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of
letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in
overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it
was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical
plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European
renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed
into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies
are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.
www.inyourpocket.com
whAt to see
One Ticket, Four Museums
Those wishing to visit the Rector’s Palace, the
Ethnographic Mueseum, the Maritime Museum or the
Revelin Fortress must now buy a ticket for 70 kn (adults),
or 40 kn (children), which enables you to visit all four
museums over a 7-day period.
The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i
židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352,
the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum
are set in a building which could be reached from within the
surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A
permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end
of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and
Spain. The community flourished and included respected
doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in
Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some
restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The
Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and
a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains
valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information
on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.
Churches
Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help
over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you.
That’s why they engaged in building so many churches. Here
are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.
Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of
Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)
B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this
pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks
like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was
probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in
the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent
here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains
household objects they used in order to support their order
(e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks,
including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one
time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was
especially venerated at Christmas time. Q June, September
Open on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31
Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission
10 - 15kn.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
41

whAt to see
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
43

44 whAt to see
Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa
bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from
the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette
window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful
citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it
is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with
carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for
concerts and recitals.
Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i
bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the
Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed
part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary
church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space.
The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist
and baroque styles.
Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons
(Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,
tel. (+385- 20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church
was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive
wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly
Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive
collection should head for the museum on the second floor of
the building next door. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 21:00.
Church Admission free.
The Aquarium (Akvarij)
E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32
39 78. Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress
(Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to
know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it.
Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less
than impressed. Q June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00.
July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 40kn.
St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4,
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00.
Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the
southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit
church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque
staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome
(1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by
architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the
period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church
of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the
church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.
Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining
college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly
atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city.
Mass in English In June, July and August mass is held in
English every day at 12:00.QOpen 06:30 - 20:00.
St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)
C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now
houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of
town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2,
Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was
originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for
early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was
added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an
interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter,
which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting
of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.
St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)
D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by
the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint
protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of
the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone
steps and balustrade.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Cable Car
L-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53
93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www.
dubrovnikcablecar.com. Travel in style to the peak
of Mount Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778
meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the
Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces
equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a
panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The
lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir
Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be
bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount
Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates
where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other
places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets
are payable in euro. Q June - August 31Open 09:00 -
24:00. September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00.
Adults 50 - 87kn, Children 25 - 40kn, children under 4 free.
The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3/4, Držićeva poljana,
tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96.
The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies
the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure
Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way
you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter
of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the
Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects
Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of
an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed
in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another
earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in
fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th
or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous
for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St
Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and
foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the
11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption
by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass:
07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:00. Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.
Landmarks
Đurovića Cave -
Skycellar Dubrovnik
Airport, Čilipi. So your
plane lands and minutes
later you find yourself
in a cave! Yes, it is
true! Just beneath the
Dubrovnik Airport, there
is a cave that stretches
200 meters in length and is a fast growing attraction. Audio
guides in English, Russian and Croatian will take you through
this adventure where Mother Nature has for centuries been
working her magic. As a memento of your visit, the aptly
named Skycellar offers a vast range of authentic wines from
this region as well as genuine souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00. Tickets 15 - 40kn.
Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3.
This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing
in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman
and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary
Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him
was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his
home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival
powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants
and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.
whAt to see
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
45

46 whAt to see
Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i
mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska
Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular
sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile
Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central
dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps
around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for
tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct
that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built
from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the
first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.
Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with
a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake
and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little
masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near
the tower at the other end of Stradun.
Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom.
In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and
legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility.
The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag
of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic.
Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s
enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the
marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of
the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned
to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s
right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional
Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or
lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient
measure near the bottom of the sculpture.
The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)
D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that
crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of
two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two
older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green
color is a result of their copper composition rather than their
roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the
green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents
of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original
part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was
destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes
and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for
casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John
the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst
centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.
The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica
i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South
of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a
remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal,
with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here,
galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a
place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating
throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating
overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers
of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The
buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine
sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians
gathered there on a warm evening.
The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3. Dubrovnik
owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that
the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the
4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by
the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town
now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount
Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the
maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman
Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying
Revelin Fortress
Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik,
it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground
floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first
floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.The
exhibit Sculptures from the Middle Ages is linked to the
material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City
its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone
and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits,
windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic
style. These artefacts have been gathered from the
Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they
date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit
Archaeological research and foundry workers present
how the very building you are standing in, was built.
Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction
as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons
and bells, and the houses of different stone masons
and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at
the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of
the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend
one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum
with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see
archived documents, walk through summer residences
and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the
Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses
and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly
inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important
part of Dubrovnik’s heritage. Q Admission to all the
exhibits aforementioned costs 25 - 70kn.
the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties
with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to
establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in
rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and
a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew
wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice.
During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant
navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly
important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful
galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it
was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica
in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at
Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for
embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the
local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.
The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates
is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the
courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine
houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings
were usually destroyed when the need for them passed,
Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe.
The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’
workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the
venue for concerts and DJ parties.
Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum B-2,
Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun),
info@visiadubrovnik.com, www.visiadubrovnik.com. The
ancient walls of St. Clara’s Convent are new home to a state
of the art 5D multimedia museum. With the use of virtual
reality and hologram projections, visitors are taken through
an incredible journey into the history and culture of Dubrovnik
and Croatia. Offered in six languages, experience the trials
and tribulations of this grand city. Whilst there, see the World
Network Concept, a fun way of spreading peace virtual style!
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 50 - 75kn. U
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

People have always been curious to discover the secrets
concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks
mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails.
But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and
many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal
the greatest mysteries of the planet.
On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s
dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for
example, that towards the end of the 19th century people
from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when
diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from
Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised
diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs
and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the
1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using
diving equipment they had made themselves.
Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s
all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic
may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared
with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of
diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic
definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore.
This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination
of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers.
The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either
rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in
some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong
tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in
places, mainly in channels where the water surges between
islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands.
Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great
deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the
Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique
to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive
underwater rock faces and reefs and is dotted with
shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane
which has found its way down there. And this fascinating
world extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.
diving in the AdriAtiC
Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet, (Archives)
The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by
divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The
coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place
of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern
parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent
waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of
the most attractive locations here are around the islands of
Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik
area.
Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting –
and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret
underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are:
the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the
Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear
Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica
on the island of Korčula.
Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other
potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that
diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and
moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature
reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks
and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.
Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet, (Archives)
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
47

48 diving in the AdriAtiC
Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks
with a special permit. And you need prior permission from
the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following
locations:
The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo
and Palagruža
Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent
Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57
The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat
So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an
individual or as part of a group.
If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia,
contact a registered diving instructor, school or association
(see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If
you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark
the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual
divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local
harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive
to depths greater than 40m.
The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but
there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant
sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed
or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile
characters may become aggressive if they perceive you
as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every
diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater
environment. Your aim should be to leave no trace of your
dive when you have finished.
Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves
or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination
for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and
techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite
safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive
to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid
putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course,
before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you
know exactly what you’re doing!
We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!
Dive centres
Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre G-2, Iva
Dulčića 35 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel.
(+385-) 098 24 43 49/(+385-) 099 256 12 56,
diving.hr@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com.
Q Open 09:30 - 18:00 and by appointment.
Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet F-3,
Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel.
(+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanet-diving.com,
www.blueplanet-diving.com.Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Epidaurum Šetalište Žal 31, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20)
47 13 86, epidaurum@du.t-com.hr, www.epidaurum.
com. Q Open 09:30 - 18:30.
Diving Club Dubrovnik G/H-1, Solitudo Bay, tel.
(+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@
du-diver.hr, www.du-diver.hr. On Babin Kuk facing the
Gruž harbour. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnk is far from being just a walk-round museum
of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the
middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and
is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling
and generally pottering around.
The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on
a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high
summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north.
Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as
Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge
through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.
Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik
region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering
half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of
Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.
Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the
beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from
Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist
office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to
the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel
agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.
With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal
waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or
horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.
If you fancy quad-bike safaris or paint-balling, check out
what’s on offer at the Prevlaka Nature Park or the Kojan
Koral (see listings below).
Adventure & Travel
ATV Quad Safari Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)
098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr.
Vroom! Vroom! Pick up your helmet, get behind the wheel and
prepare yourself for some major dirt filled action. Four wheeler
(All Terrain Vehicles) are the form of transport as you cross
rivers and drive across different terrain along the Konavle
mainland. You are picked up at your place of stay and taken
to the Kojan Konavle Koral Estate, there you are instructed on
procedures and then the true adventure begins! Intended for
groups of 7 - 14 people and it is 500 - 600kuna per person.
Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.
Excursions on the Neretva boats
diving in the AdriAtiC sport 49
Climbing
Prevlaka Nature Park Prevlaka, tel. (+385-20) 79 15
55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www.park-prevlaka.hr. This
park offers loads for active souls - choose between biking,
canoing or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you can
have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in the
clean sea. Entry 15kn. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Horse riding
Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)
098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.
hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the
Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof
instructions are provided. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by
prior arrangement.
Sea kayaking
Adriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6,
tel. (+385-20) 31 27 70/(+385-) 091 722 04 13, info@
adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A
Step back in time as you paddle in traditional Neretva vessels along the Delta of the Neretva River. You will pass through
areas where the ancient Greeks, Illyrians and Romans used to sail, not to mention the pirates of this region that were
known to attack their enemies from such positions. Dig in to the traditional gastronomic specialties including ‘Neretva
Brudet’, a type of stew made from frog and eels. When back on the mainland, you can visit the Ornithological Collection
in Metković and the archeological site of the ancient Narona. For more information, please contact:
Restaurant Lopoč, tel. (+385-20) 69 30 34, www.restaurant-lopoc.com; Restaurant Adria, tel. (+385-) 099 388 99
99; Konoba Narona, tel. (+385-) 098 32 37 49.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

50 sport
Local Local Local LLLL fishing fishing fishing
Big BB game fishing
Night Night Night NNNN fishing
Includes l all the latest � shing
equipment, rods and reels,
as well as fresh and live bait
fishing
best
Join us for the
JJoooiiinnn uusss fffoorrr
experienceon the Adriatic
CALL +385 (0)91 419 1450
gg
Sport events
03.08 Friday - 05.08 Sunday
South Dalmatian Regatta
Orebić - Dubrovnik.
18.08 Saturday
Sailing regatta - The Elaphite Islands Cup
Koločep Channel.
01.09 Saturday
Musical Regatta
Koločep Channel.
15.09 Saturday
Sailing regatta - Gradelana
Koločep Channel.
Adventure Dalmatia Pile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59
42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, deni@adventuredalmatia.
com, www.adventuredalmatia.com. Sea kayaking around
Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on
091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13. Q April - October Open
08:00 - 22:00.
LaurAdventure K-4, Istarska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 930 92
60/(+385-) 091 530 25 12, info@laura-adventure.com,
www.laura-adventure.com. Sea kayaking, free climbing,
trekking. For info call the mobiles above. Q Working hours
by appointment.
Tennis
Babin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel.
(+385-20) 44 76 27. You should call for an appointment to
check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour. Q Open
07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira
bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@
gmail.com. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier.
80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay
100kn. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Workshops
29.06 Friday - 07.07 Saturday
Trekking & Photography Korčula, info@
robertmarnika.com. After last year’s success in Zadar,
this event moves to Korčula. It’s a double whammy
with workshops on digital photography combined with
trekking. So get your boots on and load up your camera
with some great snapshots ready to be taken.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Take a hike!
In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around
the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres.
After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula,
or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala
Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount
Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb, but with the prospect
of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle
has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks,
remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office
in Cavtat for a map.
Get a taste of the fresh outdoors on foot! Visitors who
prefer walking can investigate Konavle by strolling down
the nicely decorated pathways which lead you to unique
beaches along the Konavle rocks known only to locals.
For more information, contact the Konavle Tourist
Association. Paths: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi/Čilipi-Radovčići/
The “Ronald Brown” Path.
Cycling
For those seeking more of an active holiday and are keen
on seeing more than the city itself, why not choose from
the 60km of cycling roads and tracks that are available
throughout the Konavle area. Bicycles can be hired at
tourist agencies (look in our Getting Around section)
where you can also get detailed instructions and road
maps. In case you are already near Konavle itself, contact
the Konavle Tourist Association for more information.
Theme routes: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi (starting point Cavtat
- Bus Station)/Cavtat-Zvekovica-Miljasi (starting point
Cavtat - Bus Station)/Čilipi-Gruda-Ljuta-Pridvorje (starting
point Čilipi - Main square).
sport
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
51

52 MAiL & phones
City codes
Zagreb 01
Split 021
Šibenik 022
Zadar 023
Rijeka 051
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you
can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure
they’re right value for what you are sending and where.
Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These
are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around
town.
Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-
20) 36 20 68.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Lapad G-2, Miljenka Bratoša 21, tel. (+385-20) 36 28
40.Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
June - August 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Pile J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 2, tel. (+385-20) 41
12 65.Q Open 08:30 - 15:00, Mon 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Stari grad B-2, Široka 8, tel. (+385-20) 36 28 42.Q
Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. June -
August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Making the call
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope
you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course).
Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s
six- or seven-digit number, and place the receiver to
your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code
(020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed
by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial
00 (the international access code), the appropriate
country code, a city or area code if applicable and the
subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad:
Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s
country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and
the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile
numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091,
092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number
and wait for a human voice. For an international call to
a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code,
385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the
remaining digits.
Postal rates
Letters up to 50gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn
Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60kn, Abroad 3.10kn
Express mail
City Ex I-2, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 18 00/
(+385-) 0800 303 333, dubrovnik@cityex.hr, www.
cityex.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. N
DHL L-2, Frana Supila 12 (Hotel Excelsior), tel. (+385-
1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Public telephone
You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at
any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50
and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone
cards which give you substantial discounts when calling
abroad.
Internet places
Hugo 1 B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 69/
(+385-) 091 211 11 66. Internet, playstation and PC games,
burning photos, scanning and printing. Ring home for cheap
too! (7kn/15min, half an hour 10kn and 20kn/1h.) QOpen
09:00 - 23:00.
Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25,
netcafe_dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A
sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 10kn/15min
surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect your laptop.
Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. July - September Open 09:00 - 01:00.
PNB
Snoopy I-2, Bana Jelačića 33, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 74,
ravosium@du.t-com.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, 18:00 -
23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. 30kn / hour.
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most
everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent
growths that have attached themselves to ears or
cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting
tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that
shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that
churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy
enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation
in this central European location. The networks that
exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095)
and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place.
Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a
cash machine.
SIM Cards
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.
They all have numerous selling points throughout the
city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.
T-Centar I-2, Starčevićeva 47, tel. (+385-) 0800
1550, www.t-mobile.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun.
Tele 2 Centar H/I-2, Nikole Tesle 2 (TC Minčeta),
tel. (+385-20) 35 65 89, www.tele2.hr.QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Vip Centar L-2, Frana Supila 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77
00, www.vipnet.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Public transport
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray,
freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they
are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour
with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to
Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the
north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or
any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map.
Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news
kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be cancelled in
the ticket-stamping machines immediately on boarding.
Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to
Cavtat for example costs 20kn each way) and tickets are
bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr
Taxi
The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call
0800 09 70 otherwise you’ll find them on the following
ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour,
Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 25kn start, 8kn
per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 80kn per hour
for waiting.
getting MAiL & Around phones 53
Train
Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve
Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče
train, travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting
towns such as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal
people would probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour
odyssey and travel to Split, then continue south by coach,
especially since the Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less
than six hours, or you can take the sleeper.
Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading
their car on a night train at 23:20 (186.30kn - 266.30kn,
plus the price of a passenger ticket) travelling to Split and
then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-Split
motorway has reduced journey times to about 5 hours
(traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take
the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-
Osijek-Budapest route, which takes the best part of 17
hours.
Long distance coaches
Since there’s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long
distance coach has long been the best way to travel to
cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services
to almost all Croatian destinations, while international
lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a
handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach
travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a
budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with
Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money
and a 14 hour journey!
Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala
pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.
libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30.
Road help tel. 1987
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012

54 getting Around
Parking
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to
parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving
around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free
space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car
park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica bb, K-2), wellplaced
for people entering the city from the west. A bus
shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s
Pile Gate, although with Pile lying a mere ten minutes
downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs
5 - 30kn/hour or 85 - 360kn/day depending which zone
you’re in and the season.
Text message parking. Croatia was the first ever
country to introduce payment by text message for street
parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone
you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a
text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the
four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when
you get a message back from them. Different zones have
different max waiting times and prices.
Car rental
Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43
70 66/(+385-) 098 34 49 64, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr,
www.adriarent.hr. You can also rent a scooter. Q Open
08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Avis - Budget H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1 (Port
terminal), tel. (+385-20) 31 36 33/(+385-) 091 314
30 10, dubrovnik.dt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.com.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Dollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-
20) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@
subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. A
Hertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/
(+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www.
hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel:
(+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 11:00. A
Uni rent Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34
80/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, uni-rent@du.t-com.hr, www.
uni-rent.com. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A
Airport
Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi,
Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 33 33/(+385-20) 77 32 22,
www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets
for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get
around the country by plane. There are a limited number of
tickets selling at rock bottom prices so be sure to reserve
your ticket well in advance - otherwise you’ll need a whole
lot of luck to get your hands on these. International flights
are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget
airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See
the airline websites for reservations.
Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station,
tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check
with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car
there’s a long stay car park (the first 15min parking is free
of charge, anything over 15min and up to 24hours will cost
between 5 - 40kn. Parking beyond 24 hours thereafter is
2kuna per hour. In case you do lose your parking ticket, a
300kn payment is required).
www.inyourpocket.com
Bike rental
Teuta Trumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97
86/(+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.
cavtat.biz. Q April - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.
November - May 31 Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 25kn/
hour, 100kn/day. A
Ferry
G&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19,
gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. Tickets can be bought
in Gruž Harbour from the Jadrolinija kiosk at least one hour
before departure. The kiosk closes one hour before the boat
sails. Q 25 - 70kn per person.
Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41
80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q June 2 - July Open 08:00 -
20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 08:00 - 22:00. July 2 - 29 Open 08:00
- 20:00, Mon, Wen 08:00 - 22:00. July 30 - August 14 Open
08:00 - 20:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00. August 15 - 31 Open
08:00 - 22:00, Tue 08:00 - 20:00. September 1 - 30 Open
08:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 08:00 - 22:00. October Open
08:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 19:00 - 22:00.
One way ticket is 23kn per person.
Mediteranska plovidba Trg kralja Tomislava 2,
Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 11 56. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Gas stations 0-24
Komolac Ogarići 8, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 33,
www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00.
Kupari Kupari bb, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10
38, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. A
Opuzen Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 43,
www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00.
Harbourmaster’s office
Harbourmaster’s office (Lučka kapetanija) I-2/3,
Obala Stjepana Radića 37, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 88,
www.mmtpr.hr. 24 hours Info: 41 89 89 QOpen 08:00 -
14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Port authority
Dubrovnik Port Authority H-1, Obala pape Ivana
Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 33, padubrovnik@
portdubrovnik.hr, www.portdubrovnik.hr. Q June
- September 15 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
September 16 - May 31 Open 08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Towed away
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might
come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in
Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad). Most of the year
it’s Open 24 hours and from December till February from
07:00 - 23:00. The bad news is you’ll be charged anything
from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up
to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people
there speak English and accept payment by credit card.
Sanitat Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-20) 33 10 16,
42 88 58, info@sanitatdubrovnik.hr, www.
sanitatdubrovnik.hr
Transfers
Avantgarde Service H-1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 41
74 99/(+385-) 098 925 23 93, info@dubrovnik-transferi.
com, www.dubrovnik-transferi.com. Transport at its best!
Whether you are on a business trip, sightseeing, or wish to
do a tour, Avantgarde Services will accommodate all your
needs. Choose from high quality limousines, a VIP van for
delegations or taxi services at competitive rates, they have
it all. From a one off trip to assisting in corporate events,
everything can be catered for. Have your own chauffeur at
your very doorstep and with the utmost professional service!
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. N
Travel Agencies
Atlas A-2/K-3, Sv. Đurđa 1, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 84/
(+385-) 0800 44 22 22, atlas.grad@atlas.hr, www.atlascroatia.com.
One of the biggies - all kinds of trips in store.
Fancy trying a canoe or jeep safari? Step this way... QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A
getting Around
Dubrovnik Travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.
(+385-20) 31 35 55, croatia@dubrovniktravel.hr, www.
dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours!
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@
elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing
in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Gulliver travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.
(+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.
hr. Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers.
Also at F-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23,
Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Perla Adriatica L-2, Frana Supila 2, tel. (+385-20)
42 27 66/(+385-) 098 33 45 00, info@perla-adriatica.
com, www.perla-adriatica.com. By the Ploče gates, a good
place to try if you’re looking for private accommodation. Also
excursions, rental of bikes, scooters and boats, plus exchange
services. Q June, September, October Open 09:00 - 22:00.
July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00. N
Viator travel H-1, Svetog križa 3, tel. (+385-20)
31 31 40, 31 31 44/(+385-) 091 486 84 33, mail@
dubrovnikviator.com, www.dubrovnikviator.com. Visit
their website to explore a world of possibilities, including
organization of group travels, events and meetings in
Dubrovnik. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun
by appointment. A
Vivado Šetalište M.Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20)
48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr,
www.vivado.hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to
the islands. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed October 15 - April.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
55

56 shopping
Tina Šepetavc
Antiques
Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-
20) 32 35 23. Take home a little reminder of renaissance
Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Heritage Shop L-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-)
098 20 91 50. A small store exquisitely decorated in the
spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local
and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you
can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities
and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient
times right through to the present. Q June, October Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. July - September Open
10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. A
Art galleries
AR Atelier 2 C-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32
17 21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, aruskovic@inet.hr, www.
antoniaruskovic.com. A rich offer of unique and authentic
souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well
as objects with Konavle embroidery. Q June, September,
October Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 -
24:00. A
Artur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/
(+385-) 098 28 53 98. A fantastic selection of high quality
local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during
whole year so if you are interested you know what to do... Q
June, September, October Open 09:00 - 20:00. July, August
Open 09:00 - 24:00. A
Klarisa Gallery C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099
243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Hidden on
the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the
true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with
paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular
Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures
and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A
Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-)
091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romanamilutin.com,
www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract
pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00,
17:00 - 22:00. A
English books & newspapers
Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 44,
www.algoritam.hr. Books, magazines, newspapers,
maps in many languages.QJune, September Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. July, August Open
09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A
Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-) 099 706
13 26. Lots of newspapers and magazines in different
languages.QJune, September Open 07:00 - 24:00. July,
August Open 00:00 - 24:00
Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, cimic.
art.gallery@du.t-com.hr. On Stradun (oddly enough), close
to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner’s
passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters
along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. A
Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32
93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr.
Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian
artists for sale. Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice
café next door. QOpen 09:30 - 22:30. A
Workshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel.
(+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Duty Free Shop
Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. One of the perks of
travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik
Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products
you see at other similar stores, the exception here is the
traditional Croatian products and gift packages which
will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have
to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first
international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the
last designated flight.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

shopping
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
57

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58 shopping
Souvenirs
Baboon I-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33
17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com.
Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts. Q Open
09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Bačan Handmade Products D-2, Prijeko 6, tel.
(+385-20) 32 11 21. Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with
national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated
with Konavle embroidery on sale. Q Open 9:30 - 15:30,
17:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN
Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop D-2,
Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. A small
sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy
crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat
of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of
stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!
Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Tax free heaven
Save money when you buy
souvenirs and other stuff to
take back home. Look for the
“Tax Free” label on shop windows,
or ask at the counter.
When you buy goods totalling
500kn or more, they’ll give
you a form. Get it stamped
when you leave the country,
and you’re entitled to a tax
refund – follow the instructions on the form.
Karla cipele
Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel.
(+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-)
098 175 17 41, info@medusa.
hr, www.medusa.hr. Wideranging
souvenir shop that stocks
more than just the predictable
tourist-trap nonsense that nobody
actually wants. Expect a solid
choice of authentic Croatian gifts
including olive oils, brandies, and
sponges from the sponge-fishing
island of Krapanj. QOpen 09:00
Ruža Hodak
- 22:00. A
Museum shop D-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace),
tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector’s Palace is where
guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more
exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A
Palma C-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel.
(+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Unique
ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/(+385-
) 098 82 04 16, ronchi.dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.
dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but
don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners
established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using
traditional methods. Q Open 09:30 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, www.
tildadubrovnik.com. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers,
jewellery, greetings cards and more. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
A
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

shopping
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
59

60 shopping
Waxing lyrical, tel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@
vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com. Looking for
a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your
life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic
wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles
as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models
are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and
creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka
won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the
Dubrovnik region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest
tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.
Accessories
Art Go’Den G-2, Iva Dulčića 34 (Valamar Lacroma
Resort), tel. (+385-20) 43 50 22, www.artgoden.com.
A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your
chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves
designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even
the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought
for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at
Radisson Blue Resort&Spa and Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik
Hotel. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A
Croata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30,
www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied
materials come together to make you look the pro. Find
the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the
invention of the tie. Q May - October Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A
Magnolika B-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885
69 10, magnolika.at@gmail.com, www.magnolika.com.
Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky t-shirts,
bags and other designer gems made authentically here in
Croatia. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A
Delicatessen
Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20)
32 20 92, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr. A treasure trove of local
culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards,
cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-
20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr.
A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of
souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q June Open
08:00 - 23:00. July - September 30 Open 08:00 - 24:00.
October Open 08:00 - 21:00. A
Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.
kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known
and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut
sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. Q June, September
Open 08:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. October
Open 08:00 - 21:00. A
Oleoteka Uje C-2, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15
32, www.uje.hr. Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that
offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the
island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of
Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles! QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. A
Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17
77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top
quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. Q June,
September - October 31 Open 10:00 - 22:00. July, August
Open 10:00 - 23:00. A
www.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

shopping
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
61

62 shopping
Designer Clothing
Maria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30,
info@maria-dubrovnik.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. If you
forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney
shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to
stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal
measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous
just looking through the window. Q June, September Open
10:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 24:00. October
Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
Max Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20)
32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda.hr. Sharp lines, muted
colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t miss
either way. Q June, September - October 31 Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A
Modni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12
41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed
with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items
are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey
but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A
XD Xenia Design G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos
Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17,
info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Designer
who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality.
Also at Radisson Blue Resort and Croatia Hotel in Cavtat.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Jewellery
Atelier Secret C-2, Kunićeva 2. The jewelry from this
place has ‘authentic’ written all over it. The wide range of
unique necklaces, bracelets and earrings are all locally made
and there is just about something for everyone. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. N
Clara Stones C-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20)
32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www.clarastones.
com. Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from
carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and
precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.
The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department
which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different
phases of its lifecycle. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. June 15 -
September 15 Open 09:00 - 24:00. A
Dubrovnik Treasures B-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel.
(+385-20) 32 10 98, simonafarac@gmail.com, www.
dubrovniktreasures.com. Unique homemade jewelry
with the designer always using semiprecious stones, silver,
philigrans and pearls. A great choice of necklaces, bracelets
and earrings. Worth the visit! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Križek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27,
www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths
was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of
modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl,
and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

usiness direCtorY
Study in Croatia and earn a US degree!
At great locations: Dubrovnik & Zagreb
Banks & Exchanges
Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-2, Vukovarska 26,
tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free
info, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-
20) 32 24 44, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Also at I-2, Obala
Stjepana Radića 26a, tel. 32 54 80. Open 08:00 - 14:00,
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
OTP banka I-2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 062 20
12 00, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel.
062 20 13 17. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. (+385-20)
72 01 00, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Raiffeisen bank I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20)
32 05 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30
- 12:30. Closed Sun.
Real estate
Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel.
(+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28
82 54, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.dubrovnikproperties.info.
QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun.
Pro Krečak J-4, Put Republike 12, tel. (+385-20)
43 66 02, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.
Undergraduate programs
International Business Management
Information Technology
Tourism, Hospitality and Service
Management
Graduate programs
Human Resource Development
Service Leadership & Innovation
Year-round admission!
Zagrebačka banka I-2, Vukovarska 7, tel. (+385-20)
32 25 07, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel.
32 25 52, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Q May 21 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. October Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Business Connections
American College of Managemet and Technology
J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00,
alumni association
www.acmt.hr
american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County
Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20
99, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Consulates
Belgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43
81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Denmark I-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33
35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel),
tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, consolatoitaliano@net.hr.
Q Open by arrangement.
Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57.
Q Open by prior arrangement.
The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-20)
35 61 41/(+385-) 091 396 63 82, ajerkovic@atlant.hr.
QOpen Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00.
UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97,
honcons.dubrovnik@inet.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Wed, Sat, Sun.
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
63

64 LiFestYLe direCtorY
Call the experts
Ana’s Studio K-3, U Pilama 5, tel. (+385-20) 41 65
15, gigidbk@yahoo.com. Cosmetic treatments, nail art,
hair cuts, body painting. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. N
Beautyline K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 1, tel. (+385-
20) 42 30 81, kozmetickisalon.beautyline@gmail.com.
Beauty centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Zrinka H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 62
32, salon2@frizerzrinka.com, www.frizerzrinka.com.
Hair studio. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Culture Centres
L’Alliance Francaise J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 4, tel.
(+385-20) 32 63 53/(+385-) 092 285 76 84, afd@caas.
unizg.hr, www.afd.hr. QOpen Tue, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.
Dry cleaners & Laundries
Amo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33
33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098
42 86 71/(+385-) 098 915 99 22. Dry cleaners. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N
Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette E-1, Put od Bosanke 2
(outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@
dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com.
Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon
request. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn
per 10 minutes (up to 9kg). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18.
Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. N
Hospital
General Hospital H-3, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. (+385-20)
431 777, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.hr.
Emergency number 112
Emergency number 112. In case of emergency
you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the
emergency services as below:
Police 192
Fire department 93
Ambulance 94
Coast guard 9155
Marinas
ACI Marina Dubrovnik Na Skali 2, Komolac, tel. (+385-
20) 45 50 20, m.dubrovnik@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.
hr. 450 berths, 110 places on land. Two restaurants, souvenir
shop, supermarket, mechanic, swimming pool, showers.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A
ACI Marina Korčula Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 16 61,
m.korcula@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 144 berths,
16 on land. Restaurant, hairdresser, mechanic. Staff speak
foreign languages. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00.
July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00. October Open 08:00 -
20:00. A
Luka Porat - Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel.
(+385-20) 41 86 40, dpa.gruz@portdubrovnik.hr. QOpen
07:00 - 21:00. A
Making friends
The Dubrovnik Foreign Circle,
www.dubrovnikforeigncircle.com. A great local
organisation that works on giving back to the community.
Various social activities and gatherings are held and new
comers to the city are particularly made welcome with
the aim of building networks, establishing friendships and
more. So come along!
Pets
Bobanović H-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-
20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.tcom.hr.
Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on
098 / 24 39 38. Q Open 08:30 -12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr.
Veterinary clinic. For emergency call
098 191 26 94. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Police station
Coast guard I-2, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-
20) 44 35 55, www.dubrovacko-neretvanska.policija.hr.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Police station I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. (+385-
20) 44 37 77, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Traffic police Vladimira Nazora 32, tel. (+385-20) 44 36
66/(+385-20) 44 36 39. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Pharmacies
Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by
either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy.
Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20)
41 89 90. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Kod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20)
32 14 11. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00.
Closed Sun. A
Kod zvonika C-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Lapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67
78. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. A
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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offers full access to amenities at this stunning waterfront resort, including a 201-room
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66 dubrovnik neretvA CountY
Mljet
A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a
sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ...
the bray of a donkey. Silence.
Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the
more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry
service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the
Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.
This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or
discos. One might hope it never will be.
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this
island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.
Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide
and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or
lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km
with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves
to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With
five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush
vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green
Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs
and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the
hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back
into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The
submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several
types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational
sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths
are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here.
The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National
Park since 1960.
The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of
the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey)
because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek
settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising
nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).
The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century
BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and
settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The
best preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above
the Veliko Jezero, and the fort of Vodica near Babino Polje.
The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century
BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians
in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the
western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most
notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman
ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic
coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th
Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence
in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley
and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained
on the western end of the island for about another 300 years,
until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ,
between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including
mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and
arrows, was discovered in 1938.
In 1151, Prince Deša of Zahumlje donated the entire island
of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano
from Apulia. The arrival saw the construction of a church
and grand monastery of the benedictines (1177-1198) on
the islet in Veliko Jezero.
Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired the Pelješac
Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This
changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent
of Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held the island until the
dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808.
Getting there and around
Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry
and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet
is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from
Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of
harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port
of call in the north, however, you can also access the island
from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and
Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily
connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow
water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw
anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.
Where to stay
Mljet has just one hotel (Hotel Odisej, Pomena b.b., www.
hotelodisej.hr ) but with two campgrounds and a plethora
of private rooms and apartments, there is enough
accommodation to triple the island’s population during the
summer. For information about private accommodation, you
can contact the island’s tourist offices at the Sobra ferry
port and in Polače.
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dubrovnik neretvA CountY
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
67

68 dubrovnik neretvA CountY
What to See
Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište
2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, npmljet@np-mljet.hr,
turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.
hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction.
The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western
end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline
beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small
Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena,
Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of
interest, this park represents the first institutionalised
attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.
The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo
Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-metre-long
channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko
Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to
power mills during the Middle Ages, switches direction every
six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer
path circumnavigating the lakes, and other paths wind up
and over the hills. It’s Ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but
scuba diving and motor boats are not permitted.
The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers,
steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and
most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant
of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used
for farming or herding. Nevertheless, a 1917 fire took out
many of the deciduous forests.
Tickets to the park cost 40-100kn and can be purchased
at booths in Polače and Pomena (Open 08:00 - 20:00), and
at the Hotel Odisej. Admission includes the ferry to St Mary
Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the
Benedictine monastery and a restaurant.
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary
(Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island
of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a
time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center.
Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in
autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and
peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th
Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque
church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198.
In the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal
lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture
and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over
the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs
of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance
features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church
portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure
of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added
during the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1809, during the rule
of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian
Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until
1941. In 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given
back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the
church’s inauguration.
The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a
restaurant in the monastery cellars, the buildings are
unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk
past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and
imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding
in the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown.
Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant
Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high -
built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to
the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road
to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists
have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas) west of
the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s
economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey,
meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will
take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right
and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort.
A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the
highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views
over the lakes and the Adriatic.
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the
National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,
built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living
among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,
fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small
yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the
hotel’s amenities.
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century
when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino
Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to
work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).
Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically
interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,
serenity and lush vegetation.
Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located
on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It
offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a
number of private rentals here, too.
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre
of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road
and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino
Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted
olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest
hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of
churches: St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George,
St Blaise, St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of
Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches
of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in
the 11th Century. You can reach the church, and neighbouring
St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town.
When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp
right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On
the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey
Renaissance manor of the Ragusan governor of the island.
Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius,
the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the
sotnica, a Renaissance-era government building in whose
courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles
who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway.
Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the
sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three
beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church
of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the
Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s
Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque
bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477 by the
Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed the estate
in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured representations of
St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik), St Martin (the
patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the patron saint
of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived and worked in
a small monastery near the church. It’s partly ruined now;
along with the tower, it has been adapted for reuse as a
stable and storage.
The Church of St Martin and village graveyard is situated
on a bluff overlooking the village on one side and the island
road and Pelješac Channel on the other. A plaque on the 14th
Century porch thanks Jolanda Vecchietta, a teacher who
came to the island during the Italian occupation in World War
II, taught in the local school and fell in love with the island.
After the war she returned to Italy but later paid for the 1998
renovations to the church. St Martin’s day is celebrated on
November 11 with a mass in the church.
The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on another small
hill above the village. Costumed celebrations of St Rocco
(who was believed to have saved the village from the
plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was
the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston
from 1635 to 1652.
Odysseus’s Cave
Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus,
shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only
stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time
he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking
along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which
takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing
waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to
leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come
back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a
30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.
dubrovnik neretvA CountY
Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish
church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church
and features Gothic architectural elements.
In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary
of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and
demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.
A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the
front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,”
that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a
distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses
have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own
17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita
is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that
are used to capture rainwater.
Tourist information
i
Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office
Goveđari bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-
20) 74 41 86, www.mljet.hr. QJune,
September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30
-19:30, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
Mljet Tourist Board, Sobra office Sobra bb, Sobra,
tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr,
www.mljet.hr. Around the side of the cafe at the ferry
pier. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
Korčula
Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is
a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the
clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.
Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns
which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich,
famous and notable types who buy up old town properties
for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the
tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory
is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic
historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for
shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the
atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details
and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic
version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden
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70 dubrovnik neretvA CountY
architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral
of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted
menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.
Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual
morning stroll.
All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place
to recharge your batteries.
One of the other most prominent features of the island is
its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with
swords, which you can witness from time to time during
the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade
of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the
performance.
With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism
and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic
towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.
But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other
places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island,
the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from
any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village
of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must
try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and
said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall
of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel
miles and centuries away from everything else.
Tourist information
i
Korčula City Museum Trg Sv. Marka,
tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@
du.t-com.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and
by prior arrangement. June - September
15 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior
arrangement. Admission 20kn.
Korčula Tourist Board Obala F.Tuđmana 4, tel.
(+385-20) 71 58 67. Q June, September, October
Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
July, August Open 08:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 13:00.
Lastovo
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes
to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.
Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,
so access to the island was restricted. With not a great
deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has
been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an
untouched ecological paradise.
Many people sense in
Lastovo a spirit unlike
anything else, a sense
of the breath of ages.
Lastovo town sits uphill
in a basin facing away
from the sea to escape
the attentions of pirates.
The mellow stone of
the houses basking in
the warm sunlight is
captivating. Walking
in the town’s streets,
those with a sense for
the antique and the
eccentric will wonder
at a culture so very
detached from modern
urban life.
Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the
wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s
chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital
aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional
pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from
Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes
centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide
on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at
its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during
summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume,
where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered
braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore
Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and
there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few
families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to
explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of
time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.
Tourist information
i
Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel.
(+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59
90 07, www.lastovo.hr. Q June 15 -
September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00
- 20:00. October Open 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
The Elafiti Islands - Koločep, Lopud
and Šipan
These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic
places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your
doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of
island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey
by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every
day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million
times more refreshing!
Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them
quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud
just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance
of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built
their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone
villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud
is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the
golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less
than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the
islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance
across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted
old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the
sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very
shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball
game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun
loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side,
and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved
one from Šunj, you’ll never part.
Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports,
Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny
hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip
through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully
grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and
carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and
the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the
Dubrovnik bishops.
Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and
a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent
restaurants.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find
your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands
aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels
used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of
tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you
need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild
nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.
Konavle
The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border
with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport
is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday
mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances
of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume.
Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal
parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate
agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional
rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown
food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served
by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our
“Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try
dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards
in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina,
for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its
highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high.
The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones
(stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings
and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are
well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty
meal as part of the deal.
The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that
it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few
settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals
looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is
a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus,
and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical
dubrovnik neretvA CountY
chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet
fishing village in a pretty cove. The Prevlaka peninsula is
the southernmost point of Croatia and there’s now a Nature
Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor
in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Prevlaka
was until recently a military zone, so don’t be surprised to
come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for
paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested
to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII.
There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the
Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who
died of hunger. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo,
an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and
you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.
Cavtat
The approach to this little gem
of a Mediterranean town is one
of the most breathtaking things
about it, as the campaniles of its
churches poke their way into view
above a canopy of lush trees.
But that’s not all - this was the
ancient settlement of Epidaurum
whose inhabitants populated
Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade
fringes the rambling old streets,
edged by cafés, a couple of good
places to drink, a selection of
good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small
hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach,
a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by
sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out
of town are several large hotels which are good choices for
families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive
packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend
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72 dubrovnik neretvA CountY
imprisoning yourself in a modern
hotel complex when you can
indulge in the delights of a meal
in a traditional konoba in the
town, and the rural Konavle
region, famous for its traditional
style gastronomy and folklore is
on your doorstep.
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is
the Bukovac house
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00
- 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 20kn),
where one of the best-loved
Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As
a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely
old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring
semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw
fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some
success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features
paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from
Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal
and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is
given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature
contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique
mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at
the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.
Tourist information
Konavle district Tourist Board Zidine
6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.
tzcavtat-konavle.hr. QJune, September
Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00
- 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun
08:00 - 14:00.
Neretva
If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to
see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk.
Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored,
inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with
good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate
gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern
fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green
and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar,
upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms
to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations
of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile
region sometimes called Croatia’s California.
As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside
stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits.
It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the
people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting
pretty much everything around here.
The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller
kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although
these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years
an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts
competing teams from around the world looks set to revive
the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish
construction which is very attractive but definitely renders
their navigation a challenge!
More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional
dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic
inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a
tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular
restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where
accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also
offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks
and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.
Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from
the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting
freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully
clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped
that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near
future.
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre of
Metković Tourist Board Stjepana
Radića 1, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68
10 20/(+385-) 098 171 16 05, www.
metkovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Pelješac Peninsula
The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the
mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The
first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali
Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland
is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants
offer some of the best cuisine in the country.
Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone
walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which
with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look
scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built
by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and
the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little
Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the
same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for
industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and
victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular
conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali
grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of
Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is
an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the
first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).
It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac
experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is
another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”,
while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.
On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched
by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep
slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for
pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing
wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at
Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting
its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic
stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects
Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet -
ideal for island hopping.
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will
hardly be long enough.
Tourist information
Orebić Tourist Board Zrinsko
Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20)
71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia.
hr, www.tz-orebic.com.QOpen 08:00
- 22:00.
Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel.
(+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com.hr, www.
ston.hr. QJune Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun. July - October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Trsteno
If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in
Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green,
get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at
Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be
delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners
and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer
villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić
in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling
and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and
surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar.
More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola
Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.
Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by
local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing
gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people
have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A
sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t
miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.
East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by
the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the
sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view
encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical
splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of
the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum
- a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.
The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid
out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths,
a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer
garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern
sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus
a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered
quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which
broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and
it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall
trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy
the harmony of man and nature.
The village of Trsteno
is a modest little
settlement with a
fine church, St Vitus,
and two huge 500
year old Asiatic
plane trees. By the
waterside just east
of the gardens is a
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.
Župa Dubrovačka
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay
dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the
Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason
why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means
“Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour
so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is
named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven
by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge
right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that
could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the
hardiness of the swimmer in question.
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons
being that this part of the coast was occupied by the
Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is
all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal
situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry
lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront
empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently
going on and things will get better.
dubrovnik neretvA CountY
The Walls of Ston
In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few
man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled
fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only
a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications
was accessible to the public, but after a long period of
renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially
opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now
scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds
the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the
surrounding countryside (entry 10-30kn).
The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of
Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac
peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against
potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well
worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to
become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped
to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.
Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac
peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers
and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest
stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of
Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second
longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China,
although this eye-popping claim was probably intended
as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist
officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few
idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh
in India boasts 36km of surviving wall - although we
didn’t bother investigating any further. Info: www.
citywallsdubrovnik.hr.QJune - July 31. Open 08:00
- 19:30. August - September 15. Open 08:00 - 19:00.
September 16. - October 31. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
We highly recommend these resorts for the following
reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)
There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private
apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With
Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great
place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter
environment and clean beaches.
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find
necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks,
the post office and a large supermarket.
Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever
seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a
watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right
on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with
little villas nestled in leafy shade.
Tourist information
Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board
Šetalište dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno,
Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 62 54, tzzupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr,
www.
dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Q June, September
Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July,
August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
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A. Barca H-2,3
A. Bošković J-2,3
A. Hallera I-2
A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2
A. Kazali H-2
A. Mihanovića J-2
A. Šenoe H-2
A.G. Matoša I-2
A.T. Mimare K-2
Androvićeva C-4
Ante Starčevića I-2
Antuninska C-2
Aquarium E-3
Arhiv D-2
Asimon E-1
B. Bušića L-2
Bernarda Shawa K-2
Babin Kuk G-2
Bandureva D-4
Banjska I-3
Batahovina G-1
Batala H-2/I-2
Biokovska G-2
Bokar A-3
Bokeljska G-1
Boninovo J-3
Bosanka L-2
Boškovićeva C-2
Božatska I-2
Braće Andrijića D-4
Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3
Brdasta J-2
Brgatska L-2
Brsalje A-2
Brsečinska I-2
Bunićeva poljana C-3
Buža D-1
Cavtatska K-2
Celestina Medovića B-2
Crijevićeva C-4
Cvijete Zuzorić C-3
Čubranovićeva B-2
Ćilipska I-2
Ćira Carića G-2
D. Pulića A-1
Dalmatinska H-2
Dante Alighieria J-3
Dinka Ranjine C-3
Dolska H-1
Dr. A. Šercera H-2
Dr. V. Mačeka I-2
Dračasta K-2
Dropčeva C-2
Državna cesta D-8
Dubravkina G-2
Dunavska G-2,3
Džamija C-3
Đorđićeva B-2
Đura Baljevića D-4
Đura Basaričeka I-1
E. Kumičića H-2
F. Kolumbića H-2
F. Prešerna I-2
F. Supila L-2
Ferićeva B-3
Flore Jakšić G-2
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G. Rajčevića I-2,3
Garište B-2
Getaldićeva B-2
Gorica Sv. Vlaha H-3/I-3
Gornji kono I,J,K-2
Gradac J-3
Gradićeva D-4
Grbava C-4
Grebenska H-2
Grudska K-2
Gruška obala H-1
Gundulićeva poljana C/D-3
Hanibala Lucića C-1
Hladnica H-3
Hliđina B-3
Hodiljska I-2
Hvarska E-1
I. Matijaševića J-2
I. Račića L-2
I. Vojnovića H-2/I-3
Ilije Sarake D-4
Imotska I-1
Ispod Minčete B-1
Ispod mira D-4
Ispod Petke G-2
Istarska J-3
Ive Dulčića G-2
Ivana Zajca G,H-1
Ivanska G-3
Iza Grada B-1, K-2
Između ribnjaka H-2
Između tri crkve J-2
Između vrta K-3
Između polača C-2
Izvijačica A-1
J. Berse H-2
J. Pupačića H-2
Jakljanska H-1
Janjinska H-2
Josipa Kosora I-3
Kantafig G-1
Kardinala Stepinca F-2
Kaznačićeva C-3
Kliševska G-2
Kneza Domagoja H-2
Kneza Branimira I-2
Kneza Damjana Jude E-3
Kneza Hrvaša C-4
Knežev dvor D-3
Koločepska L-2
Komajska H-2
Komolačka G-1
Konavoska L-2
Korčulanska I-3
Koritska H-1
Kotorska I-3
Kovačka D-2
Kralja Tomislava H-2
Kunićeva C-2
Kunska I-1
L. Matačića H-1
L. Rogovskog G,H-2
Lapad G-3
Lapadska obala H-2
Lazareti L-2
Lazarina L-2
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Liechtensteinov put H,I-3
Lokrum L-3
Lokrumska K-2
Lopudska H-1
Lovrijenac K-3
Lovrina L-2
Lučarica D-3
Luka Dubrovnik H-1
Luke Sorkočevića G-2
Ljubuška H-1
M. Blažića K-3
M. Budaka K-2
M. Dizdara I-1
M. Gjaje J-2
M. Gupca K-2
M. Hamzića I-2
M. Jarnovića G-2
M. Mrnarevića I-2
M. Vodopića G,H-2
Mala Petka G-3
Mandaljenska G-3
Marina Držića D-3
Marka Marojice H-2
Marojice Kaboge C-3
Masarykov put F, G-3
Metohijska I-1
Miha Pracata C-2
Minčeta B/C-1
Mljetska H,I-1
Mokoška I-1
Moluntska G-1
Montovjerna I-2
Mosorska G-2
Most Dubrovnik G-1
Mrtvo zvono B-4
N. Ljubičića I-2
N. Nodila J-2
Na Andriji B-3
Na Mihajlu H-2
Na Ponti D-2
Nalješkovićeva C-2
Napice L-2
Neumska H-1
Nikole Božidarevića B,C-3
Nikole Gučetića C-3
Nikole Tesle H,I-2
Nuncijata H-1
Obala S. Radića I-2
Obodska K-2
Obuljenska J-2
Od Batale H-2
Od borova H-2
Od čempresa J-2
Od Danača J-3
Od Domina B-3
Od gaja I-1,2/J-2
Od Gale I,J-2
Od Greba Žudioskih K-2
Od Gradca J-3
Od Hladnice H-3
Od Kaštela B-4
Od Kolorine K-3
Od Margarite C-4
Od maslinate L-2
Od Montovjerne I-2
Od Nuncijate H-1
Od polača C-2
Od puča C,B-3
Od pustijerne D-4
Od Rupa B-3
Od Sigurate B-2
Od Srđa K-2
Od Sv. Mihajla H-2
Od škara I-1
Od šorte B-3
Od Tabakarije K-3
Oraška G-2
P. Budmani K-2
P. Čingrije I-3
P. Krešimira IV L-2
P. Preradovića H-2
Padre Perice I-1
Palmotićeva C-2
Paska Baburice H-2
Pećarica C-3
Peline C-1
Pelješka K-2
Pera Bakića J-2
Petilovrijenci C-2
Petra Svačića G-2
Pile J,K-3
Pionirska H-1
Placa C,D-2
Placa – Stradun C-2
Platska J-3
Ploče L-2
Plovani skalini C-1
Pobijana D-4
Pobreška H-1
Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4
Poljana Marina Držića D-3
Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4
Pomoraca H-1
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Pomorski muzej E-4
Porat E-3
Porporela E-3,4
Posat E-2
Postranjska I-2
Pred Dvorom D-3
Prelazna B-3
Pridvorska J-2
Prijeko B-2,3/C-2
Primorska G-2
Privežna J-2
Puljizeva B-3
Put od Bosanke L-2
Restićeva D-4
Revelin E-1
Riječka G-1
Ribarnica D-2
Roka Mišetića H-3
S.S. Kranjčevića I-2
Savska G-3
Sinjska I-2
Slanska G-2
Solinska I-2
Solitudo G-1
Sponza D-2
Srebrenska J-2
Srednji kono K-2
Stayeva E-4
Stonska G-2
Strossmayerova C-3
Stulina D-4
Stradun B-2
Sunčana L-2
Sustjepanska I-2
Sv. Barbara C-1
Sv. Đurđa A-2/K-3
Sv. Ivan E-3
Sv. Jakov D-1
Sv. Križa H-1
Sv. Lucija C-1
Sv. Luka E-2
Sv. Petar B-4
Sv. Spasitelj E-4
Sv. Stjepan D-4
Sv. Šimuna B-4
Sv. Vid C-1
Sv. Vlaha D-3
Sv. Marije B-3
Sv.Dominika D-2
Sv. Josipa B-3
Sv.Nikole H-1
street register
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G,H-2
Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2
Šibenska G-2
Šipanska H-1
Šipčine I-2
Široka C-2
Tivatska J-2
Tmušasta C-3
Topolska I-2
Trg oružja E-2
Trnovička I-2
Trpanjska G-1
Trstenska G-2
U pilama K-3
Udarnička I-2
Uvala Gruž H-1
Uvala Sumartin F-3
Uz Giman H-2
Uz Glavicu H-2
Uz Jezuite C-3,4
Uz mline K-2
Uz posat B-1
Uz tabor K-2
Vladimira Nazora J-2
Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2
Velebitska G-2
Velika Petka G-3
Vetranićeva C-2
Vicina K-2
Viška I-2
Vlaha Paljetka H-1
Vukovarska I-2
Za kapelicom K-2
Za Kamenom E-4
Za Rokom B-3
Za rupama B-3
Zadarska G-2
Zagrebačka J,K-2
Zamanjina C-2
Zatonska G-2
Zlatarićeva B-2
Zlatarska D-2
Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2,3
Zvijezdićeva B-3,4
Željezničarska H-1
Žudioska D-2
Žuljanska I-2
Župska L-2
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