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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps<br />
<strong>DUBROVNIK</strong><br />
Summer 2012<br />
20<br />
Europe’s best city<br />
guides for more than<br />
20 years<br />
What a view!<br />
Head up the Srđ Hill for<br />
some breathtaking sights<br />
under lights.<br />
Action aplenty<br />
Diving, Kayaking, Trekking,<br />
Hiking! Explore the beauty<br />
of the county on and off<br />
land.
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Contents<br />
Arriving in Dubrovnik 6<br />
Where the action is<br />
<strong>In</strong>troducing Dubrovnik 8<br />
What’s it all about?<br />
Glossary 9<br />
Don’t get caught with your trousers down<br />
Culture & Events 10<br />
Renaissance art to island reggae<br />
Where to stay 15<br />
Home sweet home<br />
Restaurants 20<br />
Enjoy the riches<br />
Cafés 32<br />
Where to watch the world go by<br />
Nightlife 35<br />
When you just gotta boogie<br />
What to see 38<br />
Those sights explained<br />
Diving in the Adriatic 47<br />
Sport 49<br />
Climbing, diving and horseback riding<br />
Dive into the crystal waters of the Adriatic for a whole new<br />
experience, see page 47<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com<br />
Contents<br />
Photographs and an interview with Ana-Marija Bujić,<br />
Dubrovnik’s gem food blogger as she offers specialties<br />
and tip top recommendations in our Restaurants section,<br />
pages 20 - 31<br />
Mail & Phones 52<br />
“I just called to say I luuuurve you…”<br />
Getting around 53<br />
An explorer’s bible<br />
Shopping 56<br />
Take a little piece of my heart<br />
Business Directory 63<br />
Banks and stuff<br />
Lifestyle Directory 64<br />
Important numbers<br />
Dubrovnik Neretva County 66<br />
Out and about around the city<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
Country map 74<br />
Street index 75<br />
City map 76<br />
City centre map 78<br />
County map 80<br />
Summer 2012<br />
3
4 Foreword<br />
The stones of Dubrovnik tell a 13-century-long tale of<br />
survival. The Roman city of Ragusa developed into a citystate<br />
encompassing the coast as far south as the Bay of<br />
Kotor , the Pelješac Peninsula and nearby islands including<br />
Mljet and Lastovo. On the walls of Korčula Town , antique<br />
cannons still aim across a narrow channel at the village of<br />
Orebić , on Pelješac. That’s because Korčula was an outpost<br />
of Dubrovnik ’s rival, the Republic of Venice .<br />
Legend has it that St. Blaise appeared in a vision in 971 to<br />
warn Dubrovnik of an impending Venetian invasion. He’s<br />
been revered here ever since. But it’s appropriate that he’s<br />
the saint who is celebrated with the blessing of throats. After<br />
all, Dubrovnik remained independent and prosperous for<br />
more than a millennium on its citizens’ powers of negotiation.<br />
Now Dubrovnik has thrown open its gates to an annual<br />
invasion of thousands of visitors who come to walk its<br />
ancient streets, to see the wealth the city amassed through<br />
centuries of trade, and to stand on its mighty walls and gaze<br />
across the crystalline seas. So whilst in town some of the<br />
‘must do’s’ include the cable car which takes you up to Srđ<br />
Hill for those breathtaking panoramic views. Our IYP special<br />
summer edition reveals the secrets of the deep that just<br />
might entice you to throw on the goggles, mask, and oxygen<br />
tank, and submerge. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival is a<br />
cultural spectacle with snazzy world and local artists in music,<br />
theatre, dance and folklore. Gastro-blogger Anamarija gives<br />
us some audacious tips on local cuisine and there is a whole<br />
lot more for you to explore!<br />
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ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />
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Zagreb, Croatia<br />
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70<br />
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24<br />
zagreb@inyourpocket.com<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
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Cover: Phil Newman, Croatia. One<br />
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Competition<br />
Editorial<br />
Editor Višnja Arambašić<br />
Contributors Nataly Anderson<br />
Marinović, Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank<br />
Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen,<br />
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Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac<br />
Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka<br />
Valić<br />
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Kovačević,Gordan Karabogdan<br />
Photos <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> pocket team, Thanks<br />
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Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Available at all Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Offi ces, Cultural<br />
<strong>In</strong>stitutions, Hotels, Travel Agencies, ...<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
Card<br />
Special tourist discount card<br />
Daily Card<br />
includes free entrance to<br />
8 cultural institutions &<br />
24 h public transport rides<br />
No charge for children<br />
up to 12 years old<br />
ONLY<br />
130,00 kn<br />
DU CARD<br />
3-day Card<br />
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No charge for children<br />
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180,00 kn<br />
Weekly Card<br />
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No charge for children<br />
up to 12 years old<br />
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220,00 kn<br />
<strong>In</strong>cludes free entrance to:<br />
City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History<br />
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Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery<br />
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6 Arriving in dubrovnik<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre Gruž<br />
I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@<br />
tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.<br />
Q May, October Open 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
June - September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre Lapad G-2, Šetalište<br />
kralja Zvonimira 3, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, ured.<br />
lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Q May,<br />
October Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
June - September 30 Open 08:30 - 20:30, Fri, Sat 09:00<br />
- 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre Pile C-2, Brsalje 5,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@tzdubrovnik.<br />
hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. June<br />
- September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board I-3,<br />
Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, info@<br />
visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.<br />
tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Arriving in Dubrovnik<br />
By boat. There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the<br />
centuries old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town<br />
and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office<br />
and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old<br />
Town. Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the<br />
world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers.<br />
Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good<br />
accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there.<br />
There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and<br />
loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port<br />
looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s<br />
hotels are located. Getting to town: hop on an orange bus<br />
number 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12kn<br />
if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15kn if you buy it on board.<br />
Tickets must be cancelled in the machine next to the driver<br />
immediately on boarding.<br />
By bus. The city has a new coach station close to the<br />
Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry<br />
terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open<br />
05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing<br />
money: head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs<br />
and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn.<br />
Left luggage: the garderoba works 04:30 - 22:30, 5kn per<br />
hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Public phones are on<br />
the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus<br />
a large Konzum supermarket next door (open 07:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 08:00 - 14:00). Getting to town: buses to town stop<br />
right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B or 3. Tickets cost<br />
15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or<br />
in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09<br />
70 and 0800 14 41.<br />
By car. For the time being, there is no motorway to<br />
Dubrovnik. Considering how narrow non-motorway roads<br />
are, you’re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split.<br />
Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all<br />
roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders,<br />
motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To<br />
approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel:<br />
Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you<br />
inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible<br />
bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a<br />
corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your<br />
passport or ID card handy.<br />
Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3<br />
(E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading<br />
south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska<br />
Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but<br />
you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.<br />
When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east<br />
and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check<br />
out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for<br />
traffic information.<br />
By plane. Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of<br />
Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean and functional. There is a<br />
restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and<br />
ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in<br />
the arrivals hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and<br />
2kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is<br />
in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town:<br />
Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into<br />
town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance<br />
to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the<br />
bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the<br />
airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a<br />
day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.<br />
Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33<br />
33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.<br />
By train. Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic<br />
narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to<br />
learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are<br />
determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either<br />
Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb,<br />
Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.<br />
Basic data<br />
Population:<br />
Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612<br />
Dubrovnik Neretva County (April 2011): 122,783<br />
Dubrovnik (April 2011): 42, 641<br />
Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.<br />
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro,<br />
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy.<br />
Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction<br />
for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some<br />
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named<br />
some of its most pure!<br />
Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County<br />
measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea.<br />
Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian<br />
coast, 47 of them inhabited.<br />
Climate: Mediterranean<br />
Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time<br />
Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00<br />
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in<br />
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Arriving in dubrovnik<br />
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GROWING YOUR MONEY.<br />
WISELY STRUCTURED SAVINGS.<br />
SPAREN LOHNT SICH.<br />
KLUG GESTALTETES SPARBUCH.<br />
IL RISPARMIO CONVIENE.<br />
RISPARMI BEN STRUTTURATI.<br />
www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr • info telefon 0800 14 14 • facebook.com/hypobankahrvatska<br />
5,00%<br />
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8 introduCing dubrovnik<br />
It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are<br />
proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little<br />
more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride<br />
runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified<br />
are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it<br />
manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people<br />
of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s<br />
not an empty or boastful pride.<br />
Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls<br />
and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people<br />
of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar<br />
and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the<br />
main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called,<br />
was an island, offering some protection from attack, but,<br />
of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful<br />
citizens their shelter.<br />
That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were<br />
under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades,<br />
Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.<br />
But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy,<br />
the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this<br />
became a city-state which flourished for four centuries,<br />
maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the<br />
Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.<br />
The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many<br />
other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the<br />
Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the<br />
Adriatic that it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the<br />
region. And during the heyday of the city’s development,<br />
art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in<br />
Lidija Miščin, Falling in love with Dubrovnik, Srđ viewpoint<br />
one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature<br />
which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can<br />
hear today.<br />
This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town,<br />
this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can<br />
be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its<br />
annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this<br />
year held for the 62nd time. It can also be heard – this is a<br />
city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of<br />
the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.<br />
Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also<br />
manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for<br />
example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And<br />
alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally<br />
came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see<br />
the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags<br />
to the sides of buses.<br />
It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny<br />
Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might<br />
lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when<br />
the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting<br />
his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the<br />
sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong.<br />
It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and<br />
well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.<br />
Make friends? Just click!<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
National holidays<br />
January 1 New Year’s Day<br />
January 6 Epiphany<br />
April 8 Easter<br />
April 9 Easter Monday<br />
May 1 <strong>In</strong>ternational Workers' Day<br />
June 7 Corpus Christi<br />
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day<br />
June 25 Statehood Day<br />
August 5 Victory and Homeland<br />
Thanksgiving Day<br />
August 15 Feast of the Assumption<br />
October 8 <strong>In</strong>dependence Day<br />
November 1 All Saints’ Day<br />
December 25 Christmas<br />
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day<br />
Customs<br />
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna<br />
equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed<br />
to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn<br />
minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at<br />
all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can<br />
import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres<br />
of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export;<br />
however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from<br />
Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export<br />
approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory<br />
department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open<br />
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further<br />
details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61.<br />
Electricity<br />
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the<br />
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical<br />
appliances.<br />
Health & Safety<br />
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye<br />
should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless.<br />
The Police (policija) are generally helpful in times of crisis;<br />
keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of<br />
identity documents, so keep some identification on you at<br />
all times.<br />
Money<br />
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as<br />
well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours<br />
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,<br />
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash<br />
Climate<br />
Temperature, °C<br />
30<br />
20<br />
10<br />
0<br />
-10<br />
introduCing dubrovnik gLossArY 9<br />
Rainfall, mm<br />
100<br />
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D<br />
75<br />
50<br />
25<br />
0<br />
Jennifer Lin, Break<br />
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the<br />
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount<br />
of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places<br />
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.<br />
Toilets<br />
Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option<br />
is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail<br />
yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street<br />
Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re<br />
Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.<br />
Roads<br />
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies<br />
to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5%<br />
applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave<br />
it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but<br />
given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will<br />
probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed<br />
kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed<br />
traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed<br />
patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The<br />
speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked;<br />
80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the<br />
spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any<br />
reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car<br />
registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure<br />
to always keep them with you.<br />
Tipping<br />
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about<br />
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and<br />
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a<br />
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round<br />
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to<br />
tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy<br />
thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?<br />
Water<br />
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
10 CuLture & events<br />
Croatia’s world recognised National Folklore Ensemble LADO will be appearing at this year’s Dubrovnik Summer Games, the<br />
complete programme outline is on www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. LADO (Archives)<br />
Exhibitions<br />
Ex Yugoslavia 1991-1999<br />
C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.<br />
com. The expression every picture tells a story has its merit.<br />
This permanent collection of images presents some of the<br />
world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of<br />
the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and<br />
Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko<br />
Bandic, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon<br />
Jones are included. Multimedia video included. June - October<br />
01.05 Tuesday - 29.07 Sunday<br />
The Srebrenica Genocide and Bosnians<br />
C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, info@warphotoltd.<br />
com, www.warphotoltd.com. A chilling reflection on the<br />
biggest massacre in Europe post WWII. Tarik Samarah and<br />
Paul Lowe present the macabre terrors of war whilst also<br />
capturing life in Bosnia today; a new spirit within the people,<br />
the rebuilding and the path to a better future.<br />
Homeland War<br />
Dubrovnik in the Homeland War 1991-1995<br />
(Dubrovnik u Domovinskom ratu) Imperial<br />
Fort, Srđ. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the<br />
‘Fort Imperial’ building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol<br />
in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs,<br />
published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and<br />
commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia,<br />
flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a<br />
memorial with the names of all the defenders who had<br />
lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
05.05 Saturday - 17.06 Sunday<br />
Steve McCurry - A Moment of Unprotectedness<br />
L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Frana Supila 23. See the work<br />
of New York based photojournalist Steve McCurry who is best<br />
known for his award winning photograph ‘Afghan Girl’. Having<br />
covered international conflicts from all over the world, this<br />
renegade with a camera presents several of his series from<br />
the 1980s until today. Themes differ from landscape shots,<br />
portraits to images of war.<br />
12.05 Saturday - 16.06 Saturday<br />
Amel Ibrahimović - When the leaves fall down<br />
Bukovac House, Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, muzej@kucabukovac.hr,<br />
www.kuca-bukovac.hr. A young Bosnian artist<br />
who calls Denmark home, presents a range of drawings on<br />
walls that bring to life the atmosphere of a typical garden<br />
in Bosnia. His roots shine in his work and the exhibit is in<br />
the gallery and home of the famous Croatian painter Vlaho<br />
Bukovac.<br />
16.05 Wednesday - 31.07 Tuesday<br />
Saint Blaise in History and in the Present<br />
D-3, Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1 and Žitnica Rupe<br />
(Rupe Granary). When strolling around the Old City of<br />
Dubrovnik simply count the amount of times you pass an<br />
image of Saint Blaze, patron to Dubrovnik. You’ll be left<br />
dumfound! He lives not only in the walls but in the hearts of<br />
city folk and has so since the 10th century. A huge insight is<br />
given into his life, his works, his martyrdom and visions that<br />
saved this city from imperial attack. As a symbol of the city,<br />
his images in art, banners, money, stamps, medals through<br />
to statues on city buildings and walls are everywhere. City<br />
museums will hold exhibitions that portray the importance of<br />
Saint Blaze as seen through art and culture, a true adornment<br />
to a much loved Saint.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
July – October<br />
Sea Turtles - Silent<br />
Seamen of the Adriatic<br />
C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History<br />
Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 48 88.<br />
Sea turtles are amongst the many<br />
inhabitants of the Adriatic Sea and<br />
they come in various breeds and<br />
sizes. This temporary exhibition<br />
pays homage to these gracious<br />
reptiles and offers visitors an<br />
insight into their incredible world,<br />
as well as the numerous reasons<br />
for their endangered status.<br />
17.05 – 18.10 Thursday<br />
Dermochelys coriacea<br />
C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.<br />
A scientific exhibition dedicated to the research by local<br />
natural scientist Baldo Kosić at the end of the 19th century.<br />
It is divided into two parts and the central theme is based<br />
on the death of the so called ‘sea turtle’ found with two holes<br />
on its shell (1894). It compares the methods in investigation<br />
at the time to contemporary methods.<br />
The Linđo Folk Ensemble<br />
L-2, Lazareti, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 40<br />
23/(+385-) 091 571 79 63, www.lindjo.hr. One<br />
of Croatia’s finest exports, the Linđo folk ensemble is<br />
ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and<br />
Friday during the tourist season. High-spirited energetic<br />
performances with amazing costumes and haunting<br />
song will echo through Lazareti, starting at 21:30. The<br />
complete schedule can be seen at www.lindjo.hr. Q<br />
Tickets 100kn.<br />
Artur Gallery<br />
B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73<br />
01.06 Friday -10.06 Sunday<br />
Ivana Jovanović Trostmann - Landscapes<br />
10.06 Sunday - 30.06 Saturday<br />
Lizzie Hale - Motifs of the City of Dubrovnik<br />
01.07 Sunday - 31.07 Tuesday<br />
Nela Račić - An exhibition.<br />
01.08 Wednesday - 31.08 Friday<br />
Tony Robinson and Paul Maloney - Dubrovnik<br />
City Visions<br />
01.09 Saturday - 30.09 Sunday<br />
Elzbieta Stanhope - Ceramics<br />
Lizzie Hale, photo by Stephen Murray Latham, Artur<br />
Gallery (Archives)<br />
CuLture & events<br />
Special events<br />
09.06 Saturday - 04.07 Wednesday<br />
Epidaurus festival<br />
Cavtat, Konavle, Epidaurus.festival@gmail.com, www.<br />
epidaurusfestival.com. The festival motto, ‘Living with<br />
Arts’, attracts multitudes of classical and jazz musicians, it<br />
holds theatre shows and art exhibits in attractive open air<br />
venues. The ‘Young Talents’ series offers upcoming artists<br />
the spotlight so they can express their flair and abilities. Other<br />
features include Opera in Konavle, and evenings that are a<br />
tribute to Tino Pattiera, a great opera singer from this region.<br />
Epidaurus Festival (Archives)<br />
15.06 Friday - 26.06 Tuesday<br />
Le Petit Festival du Theatre - Croatia meets<br />
Japan<br />
D-3, Marin Držić Museum, Široka 7; <strong>In</strong> front of Church<br />
Saint Blaise; Lazareti; Veli Žali, Brsečine, www.<br />
lepetitfestival.com. If ever one questions the unity between<br />
art and culture then come hence forth. This festival bridges<br />
the two prrrfectly with talented artists from fields aplenty<br />
(theatre, dance, medicine, haute couture) and more? Come<br />
and see the works of such performers as they present their<br />
dedications to the Land of the Rising Sun.<br />
27.06 Wednesday - 30.06 Saturday<br />
The Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong>ternational Opera Festival<br />
D-3, Atrium of the Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1,<br />
www.dubrovnik-opera-festival.com. Love opera! Then<br />
look no further as this festival becomes a melting pot<br />
for opera singers, ensembles and symphony orchestras<br />
worldwide. Artists from Austria, Russia, Poland, Colombia, and<br />
Mexico will perform amongst others. The event enriches the<br />
city’s cultural offer and is dedicated to the legendary world<br />
renowned Dubrovnik opera singer, Tino Pattiera.<br />
10.07 Tuesday - 25.08 Saturday<br />
63rd Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />
www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. One of the oldest European<br />
festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre<br />
and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer<br />
weeks. <strong>In</strong> its 63rd edition, this event has all the grandeur with<br />
renaissance venues such as the Minčeta Fortress and the<br />
Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000<br />
artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.<br />
Lost the beat?<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
11
12 CuLture & events<br />
Steve McCurry<br />
18.07 Wednesday - 19.07 Thursday<br />
Lado - National Folk Dance Ensemble of Croatia<br />
Atrium of the Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1; Revelin<br />
Fortress terrace, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. LADO,<br />
the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949<br />
as a professional national institution responsible for<br />
keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over<br />
100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and<br />
instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing<br />
the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by<br />
experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that<br />
the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to<br />
express itself. LADO really is a national treasure, and if you<br />
should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed.<br />
Check out www.lado.hr. Q Starts at 21:30.<br />
Concert Matinee<br />
01.06 Friday - 31.10 Wednesday<br />
B-3, Dom Marina Držića, Široka 7. Spruce up your<br />
Sunday morning with Slobodan Begić (violin) and Dario<br />
Čagalj (guitar) performing concert matinees at the Marin<br />
Držić Dom each and every Sunday, from 10:30.<br />
Candlelight Concerts<br />
What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit<br />
classical concert in the atmospheric sorroundings of St<br />
Saviour’s Church right on the Stradun?<br />
June, September, October<br />
Mondays: Sorkočević Quartet. St Saviour’s Church at<br />
21:00.<br />
Wednesdays: Dubrovnik String Quartet. St Saviour’s<br />
Church at 21:00.<br />
Fridays: Slobodan Begić, violin, Nena Čorak, piano,<br />
Tomislav Žerovnik, guitar - The best of great compousers.<br />
St Saviour’s Church at 21:00.<br />
11.08 Saturday<br />
The Neretva Boat (lađa) Marathon<br />
Be amongst the 50,000 viewers that attend this spectacle<br />
which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat, an<br />
authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a means<br />
of transport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is<br />
held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva River.<br />
Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades,<br />
concerts, and plenty of cheer.<br />
05.09 Wednesday - 09.09 Sunday<br />
Kinookus - The Food Film Festival<br />
Ston, kinookus@gmail.com, www.kinookus.com.hr. The<br />
art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film<br />
festival preserves and promotes issues relating to healthy<br />
food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity,<br />
ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve up mouth<br />
watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord of<br />
film and motion picture.<br />
07.09 Friday - 16.09 Sunday<br />
Korčula Baroque Festival<br />
Korčula, www.korkyrabaroque.com. Not rock but purely<br />
baroque and such music lovers can choose from twelve<br />
concerts with ensembles and solo artists from the UK,<br />
France, Belgium, Italy and Croatia. <strong>In</strong> addition, there will also<br />
be lectures and other events pertaining to the musical style,<br />
come to think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!<br />
Opening of Dubrovnik Summer Festival<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Galleries<br />
Dubrovnik Art Gallery (Umjetnička galerija<br />
Dubrovnik) L-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42<br />
65 90, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This<br />
1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place<br />
to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings<br />
and sculpture which encompasses almost all important<br />
artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.<br />
The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown<br />
Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/<br />
Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown)<br />
D-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72,<br />
info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine<br />
house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with<br />
some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto<br />
the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters<br />
that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local<br />
themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly,<br />
candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a<br />
wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get<br />
a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and<br />
renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial<br />
to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died<br />
in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.<br />
The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog<br />
Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s<br />
buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic<br />
and renaissance detail, this was always a public building.<br />
Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of<br />
public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs<br />
house - all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was<br />
built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević.<br />
CuLture & events<br />
venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated<br />
to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik<br />
1991-92 (December - April 30 Open 10:00 - 15:30. May - May<br />
31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission free). The upper galleries<br />
were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals<br />
held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State<br />
Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of<br />
these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly<br />
here for research purposes.<br />
Cinemas<br />
CineStar Dvori Lapad G-2 www.blitz-cinestar.hr.<br />
Dvorana Visia B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St<br />
Clara Convent, Stradun). Box office open an hour before<br />
the first projection.<br />
Sloboda D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
14 25. Q Box office open two hours before the first<br />
projection.<br />
Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and Kinookus<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
13
14 CuLture & events<br />
Josip Ruđer Bošković<br />
Josip Ruđer Bošković was undoubtedly one of the<br />
greatest minds of the 18th century. He was born in<br />
Dubrovnik and this year marks the 300th anniversary<br />
of his birth. Bošković was an astronomer, surveyor,<br />
hydrographer, mathematician, philosopher, diplomat,<br />
archaeologist, architect and poet. His most significant<br />
work was in the fields of mathematics, geometry,<br />
astronomy, geodesy, optics and physics. He was<br />
exceptionally prolific, publishing a great body of work<br />
that laid the foundations for modern science during his<br />
career, which spanned 50 years and was mainly spent<br />
in Milan, Paris and Rome. He was a member of the<br />
Scientiarum et Artium <strong>In</strong>stitutum atque Academia in<br />
Bologna (1746), a corresponding member of the Paris<br />
Academy of Sciences (1748), a honorary member of<br />
the Tsar’s Academy of Sciences in St Petersburg (1760)<br />
and a member of the Royal Society in London (1761).<br />
Bošković left his native Dubrovnik at an early age after<br />
completing his elementary education at a Jesuit school,<br />
and he went to Rome, again to study with the Jesuits. He<br />
took the vow and entered the order as a priest until the<br />
order was suppressed in 1773. Despite the fact that he<br />
was a priest, he was a follower of Copernicus’ system,<br />
but was also the one to propose the repair of the cupola<br />
of St Peter’s in Rome. He returned to Dubrovnik only once<br />
in his lifetime, for a holiday in 1747, although he kept in<br />
regular contact with his sister Anica and his brother Božo.<br />
He wrote regularly to them, and undertook diplomatic<br />
duties on behalf of the city of Dubrovnik. He was highly<br />
sociable and articulate, but also sickly, somewhat<br />
solemn and a little depressive, with a tendency to be<br />
headstrong, which sometimes caused him problems. He<br />
died in Milan at the age of 76, struck down by disease.<br />
He is buried there. Today, a crater on the Moon is named<br />
after Bošković, as is the Ruđer Bošković multidisciplinary<br />
research institute in Zagreb, the Astronomical Society in<br />
Belgrade, the Parish Grammar School in Dubrovnik and<br />
a great many other schools, institutions, streets and<br />
squares. His image appeared on all banknotes issues in<br />
the transition period from Yugoslav to Croatian currency<br />
between 1991 and 1993, when the currency was known<br />
as the Croatian Dinar.<br />
War Photo Limited<br />
War Photo Limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.<br />
com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war<br />
by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested<br />
in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes<br />
disturbing - images. Q June - September 30 Open 10:00 -<br />
22:00. May, October Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Closed<br />
November - April. Admission 30kn.<br />
Club Nights<br />
21.05 Monday – 16.08 Thursday<br />
Re-Vel-<strong>In</strong> Festival 2012 D-2, Culture Club<br />
Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), www.<br />
clubrevelin.com<br />
Enter the Culture Club at the magnificent Revelin Fortress<br />
where thousands of worldly travellers boogie and party<br />
till the early morning hours. A star studded line-up of DJs<br />
ought to blow your summer away including James Zabiela,<br />
Fatboy Slim, Martin Solveig, Pail Van Dyk, Axwell, Umek<br />
and Riva Starr.. An electronic dance spectacle with salsa<br />
and karaoke nights in between to help break the rhythm.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Cream of the crop<br />
Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik K-3, Marijana Blažića<br />
2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, fax (+385-20) 32 02 20,<br />
sales.dubrovnik@hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.<br />
com. Refurbished and reopened in 2006 amidst a blaze<br />
of imperial glory, this grandmomma of a hotel, dating<br />
back to 1897, is near the Pile gate. Suites have fantastic<br />
views, and the terrace and piano bar are fine spots to<br />
unwind, as is the elegant indoor pool with natural sunlight.<br />
Q147 rooms (139 singles €221 - 401, 139 doubles €252<br />
- 450, 139 triples €293 - 490, 4 suites €460 - 610, 1<br />
Presidental Suite €980 - 1150, 3 Junior Suites €395 - 575).<br />
PTJHA6UFLGBKDCwW hhhhh<br />
Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@<br />
importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com.<br />
Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort. Choose from three<br />
Hotel Imperial<br />
where to stAY<br />
hotels, Neptun (4 stars), Ariston (5 stars) or Royal Princess<br />
(5 stars), or Importanne suites (5 stars) that are nestled<br />
along the sea. Wellness facilities, sports and recreation,<br />
private car park, personalised services and a buffet<br />
restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a<br />
noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk<br />
along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings<br />
are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the<br />
Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as<br />
state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q291<br />
rooms (212 doubles 150-235 €, 78 suites 300-450€).<br />
PTHAUIFLGBKDCW<br />
Kazbek H-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29<br />
99, fax (+385-20) 36 29 90, info@kazbek.hr, www.<br />
kazbekdubrovnik.com. This newly-opened hotel was built<br />
in 1573 by the noble family Zamanja as their summer castle. It<br />
was renovated in 2008 and still maintains its original beauty.<br />
The hotel has 12 double rooms and one suite. All rooms are<br />
of the highest quality with air-con, SAT & PAY TV, wireless<br />
internet and other features; perfect for guests seeking privacy<br />
and culture combined with modern facilities. 20 min from Old<br />
City! Q13 rooms (12 singles €253 - 344, 12 doubles €288<br />
- 393, 1 suite €390 - 519). PHA6LGKDCW<br />
hhhhh<br />
More F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49<br />
42 00, fax (+385-20) 49 42 40, sales@hotel-more.hr,<br />
www.hotel-more.hr. This cliff-hugging establishment on the<br />
quiet side of Lapad bay offers the facilities of a blockbuster<br />
hotel but with a significantly more intimate feel - here at<br />
least you are unlikely to be stampeded by hundreds of other<br />
holidaymakers whose faces the hotel staff can never quite<br />
remember. The décor is slightly more individualistic too,<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
15
16 where to stAY<br />
with mood-enhancing squiggly blue-green carpet motifs and<br />
bronzey-coloured bedspreads. All rooms come with a trouserpress,<br />
a comforting luxury to have by your bedside even if you<br />
only treat it as a toy rather than using it properly. There is a<br />
small kidney-shaped pool on one of the sea-facing terraces -<br />
too small to seriously swim in but a nice touch nevertheless.<br />
Breakfast in the café-restaurant on a lovely sea-facing<br />
terrace. Q44 rooms (5 singles €150, 34 doubles €190, 2<br />
Junior Suites €350, 2 Deluxe Suites €450, 1 Executive Suite<br />
€600). PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh<br />
Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put<br />
3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20,<br />
libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. This grandiose<br />
cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally<br />
ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages<br />
before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved.<br />
With full-sized trees in the lobby and cool minimalist design<br />
throughout, it’s an impressive place. Rooms are decked out<br />
in subdued beiges and whites, many featuring glass walled<br />
bathrooms (so you can look seawards while showering).<br />
The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from<br />
a Turkish bath to chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that<br />
can be filled with milk - if you’ve always dreamed of acting<br />
out your Anthony-and-Cleopatra fantasies then you’ll<br />
never have a better chance. The hotel’s impressively<br />
large congress halls are situated right next door to the<br />
24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship<br />
between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit?<br />
Q254 rooms (237 singles €190 - 255, 237 doubles €255<br />
- 320, 16 suites €400 - 550, 1 Presidential Suite €2000).<br />
PZOTHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh<br />
Hotel Rixos<br />
The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, reception@<br />
thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. A<br />
breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old<br />
Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken<br />
the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic.The<br />
staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful<br />
approach. Q19 rooms (1 single €225 - 295, 16 doubles<br />
€325 - 550, 1 suite €775 - 955, 1 Junior Suite €550 - 675).<br />
PTJAR6LEGBKW hhhhh<br />
Upmarket<br />
Lapad H-2, Lapadska obala 37, tel. (+385-20) 45 55 55,<br />
fax (+385-20) 45 55 51, sales@hotel-lapad.hr, www.<br />
hotel-lapad.hr. A grand old hotel that has recently received<br />
a thorough dose of refurbishment, with rooms kitted out<br />
with a fresh lick of paint and swanky new bathrooms. The<br />
main nineteenth-century building is the kind of place in which<br />
you can imagine Hercule Poirot tracking down high-society<br />
murderers, although the modern annexe tacked on to the<br />
back of the building is significantly less atmospheric. Located<br />
opposite Gruž harbour, it is conveniently close to Lapad<br />
beach. Q163 rooms (10 singles €107 - 197, 147 doubles<br />
€104 - 244, 4 suites €208 - 366, 2 Junior Suites €172 - 330).<br />
PHAULGBKCW hhhh<br />
Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22<br />
44, fax (+385-20) 32 12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com,<br />
www.hotelstarigrad.com. This little antique treasure is<br />
hidden in a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight<br />
rooms are small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on<br />
the roof terrace is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Q8<br />
rooms (4 singles 1005 - 1350kn, 4 doubles 1440 - 1800kn).<br />
PJA6UGBW hhhh<br />
Hotel Lapad<br />
Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80,<br />
fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.<br />
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The brand new Uvala<br />
exemplifies clean modern design, a philosophy echoed by<br />
the wellness centre (offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and<br />
a restaurant offering a full macrobiotic menu. <strong>In</strong>door and<br />
outdoor pools, plus internet access in rooms and smallish<br />
conference facilities making this a viable business option.<br />
Q51 rooms (45 doubles €150 - 270, 6 triples €120 - 408).<br />
PTHAIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh<br />
Hostels<br />
Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana<br />
3 (Bana Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. (+385-20) 42<br />
32 41, fax (+385-20) 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr,<br />
www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is sadly<br />
lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful and<br />
can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen is at<br />
your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and you<br />
can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q 82 dorm beds,<br />
17 - 19€ per person. ARBK<br />
Fresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15,tel.(+385-<br />
) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.<br />
igotfresh.com. One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for<br />
budget accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets<br />
is run by a friendly well-travelled Canadian / Croatian<br />
couple. Funky, characterful dorms, free breakfast and a<br />
guesthouse atmosphere make this place a true jewel.<br />
There’s a lively but not over-raucous bar and lounge,<br />
evening film screenings, a backpackers’ book exchange,<br />
and a list of suggested activities that includes the (highlyrecommended)<br />
“walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”.<br />
Hostel also offers private rooms, for more information<br />
about prices contact the hostel. Q 20 dorm beds, 25 -<br />
33€ per person. AGW<br />
Vila Micika G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@<br />
vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr. Whether you’re<br />
travelling solo or in a large group, Vila Micika in Lapad can<br />
cater from two to twenty. It has both rooms and dorms<br />
that are clean and tidy. Rooms are equipped with air-con,<br />
TV, showers and toilets. Travellers have free internet<br />
access and it’s a measly 200m walk to the beach. Bars,<br />
restaurants and a shopping center are all nearby. This is<br />
budget accommodation at its best! Q 20 dorm beds,<br />
23 - 29€ per person. PA6LGW<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Valamar Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 142,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 00,<br />
reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. A shining<br />
white Toblerone on the tip of the Babin kuk peninsula, this<br />
remarkable modern edifice has oceans of glass offering<br />
unimpeded views of the sea, the islands and the Blue Flag<br />
beach outside. All rooms have sea views, the superior<br />
rooms being particularly smart. Price for suite is available<br />
upon request. Q180 rooms (180 doubles €130 - 290).<br />
PTHARFLGBKDCwW hhhh<br />
Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 34,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00,<br />
reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com.<br />
Meeting every expectation this hotel oozes spacious rooms<br />
and suites, an indoor/outdoor pool, wellness treatments,<br />
restaurants, cocktail bar and more. Buffet breakfast is huge!<br />
State of the art architecture meets the natural Mediterranean<br />
surroundings. Walking distance to beaches and a bus ride<br />
to the old city, perfect for peace of mind. Price for suite is<br />
available upon request. Q385 rooms (385 doubles €130 -<br />
290). PHAFLGKDCwW hhhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
Aquarius G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45<br />
61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.<br />
net, www.hotel-aquarius.net. Recently given a makeover,<br />
this three star hotel includes four apartments and a<br />
further twenty rooms that have been garlanded with all the<br />
necessities. Eat out on the restaurant terrace, relax in the bar<br />
and choose from the diverse local and international cuisine.<br />
It is only 350m from the beach and a mere 3km from the<br />
historical city. Q24 rooms (8 singles €98, 8 doubles €134,<br />
4 triples €187, 4 suites €158). PALBKW hhh<br />
where to stAY<br />
Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00,<br />
fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com,<br />
www.valamar.com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern<br />
theme, and is only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana<br />
beach, with a water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns<br />
and little’uns happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool<br />
with an ice cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles<br />
€90 - 180). PTHARLEGBKCW hhh<br />
Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20)<br />
49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@<br />
berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel<br />
with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request<br />
the wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in<br />
style, free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to<br />
mention excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is<br />
located close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to<br />
the islands; it’s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old City. Q24<br />
rooms (20 doubles €90 - 165, 4 apartments €120 - 200).<br />
PALGCW hhh<br />
Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 10, tel. (+385-20) 43<br />
35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@<br />
hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A slightly<br />
older, smaller hotel close to the centre of Lapad affords an<br />
intimate atmosphere. Rooms overlook a rather lovely pool<br />
area, and there’s great outdoor<br />
seating for mealtimes. A wide<br />
range of free time activities laid<br />
on with a smile, and facilities for<br />
small meetings. Q63 rooms (8<br />
singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles<br />
€74 - 180, 4 triples €104 - 252).<br />
PTHA6LEBKC<br />
W hhh<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
17
18 where to stAY<br />
Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.<br />
hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey<br />
pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside<br />
than it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms<br />
decorated in blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer<br />
an absolutely fascinating panorama of comings-and-goings<br />
in Gruz harbour, and if you like downtown hotels with a sense<br />
of urban bustle then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel’s<br />
Taverna Nostromo offers a solid range of local food. Laptop<br />
users rejoice: wifi coverage extends throughout the building.<br />
Q104 rooms (8 singles €35 - 110, 96 doubles €80 - 210).<br />
PHARIFLGBKW hhh<br />
Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00,<br />
fax (+385-20) 43 56 02, reservations@valamar.com,<br />
www.valamar.com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or<br />
modernist delight? But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit<br />
is the bar in the middle of the pool where you can cool down<br />
from without and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and<br />
the famous Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208<br />
doubles €90 - 180). PTHALGBKCW hhh<br />
Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 76 03,<br />
reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. 338<br />
rooms and only 150m from the beach. All you need is on site,<br />
including restaurant services, pool facilities, entertainment<br />
programmes, car parking, washing facilities and more.<br />
22km from the airport and 150m from the bus stop. Ideal<br />
for a family holiday. Q338 rooms (338 doubles €90 - 200).<br />
PTALGBKC hhh<br />
Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax<br />
(+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com,<br />
www.hotelimaestral.com. The high spot of the Vis is the<br />
rather fine shingle beach with tables right by the water’s<br />
edge where you can indulge in sensory pleasures from the<br />
Lido restaurant and bar right into the evening. A mid-sized<br />
Mata Vodopića 8, 20000 Dubrovnik - Croatia<br />
Tel: + 385 20 456 112, Fax: +385 20 456 100<br />
e-mail: sales@hotel-aquarius.net;<br />
web: www.hotel-aquarius.net<br />
modern affair aimed at families, spick and span and rather<br />
friendly. Prices are per person. Q151 rooms (9 singles<br />
€46 - 108, 136 doubles €82 - 182, 6 triples €122 - 255).<br />
PTHALEGBKW hhh<br />
Budget<br />
Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35<br />
20, fax (+385-20) 43 35 30, adriatic@hotelimaestral.<br />
com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good sized gym and clay<br />
tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two star hotel, and an<br />
additional host of activities (fancy sea kayaking?) make this<br />
a good option for sporty types. Decent, clean and friendly<br />
accommodation in leafy surroundings on the Lapad peninsula.<br />
Q108 rooms (9 singles €40 - 80, 82 doubles €68 - 148, 17<br />
triples €68 - 148). PA6FLEGBK hh<br />
Islands<br />
Hotel Glavović Obala Ivana Kuljevana bb, Lopud, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 75 93 59, fax (+382-20) 75 93 58, info@<br />
hotel-glavovic.hr, www.hotel-glavovic.hr. Run by a family<br />
with a century long tradition as hoteliers on this island and<br />
newly reopened in 2004 after full renovation, this lovely stone<br />
house in the heart of the promenade on Lopud offers excellent<br />
quality accommodation, and has a good restaurant. Q14<br />
rooms (12 doubles €100 - 120, 2 apartments €150 - 180).<br />
PABK hhh<br />
Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20)<br />
72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr,<br />
www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the<br />
centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st<br />
century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has<br />
a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms<br />
are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows<br />
is spectacular. Q20 rooms (13 doubles €50 - 80, 7 triples<br />
€50 - 80). PABK hhh<br />
Experience<br />
the true harmony<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
where to stAY<br />
Visit Dubrovnik Sun Gardens award winning Spa, and spend your cold winter afternoons in a variety of indulgent<br />
treatments, hydrotherapy pool with therapeutic massage jets , traditional coal and salt sauna, hammam, aromatherapy<br />
steam room and much more.<br />
For more active leisure time choose between a range of facilities from our comprehensive sports and recreation centre<br />
-a-side football pitch.<br />
Villas Koločep Donje čelo bb, Koločep, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 75 70 25, fax (+385-20) 75 70 27, reservations@<br />
kolocep.com, www.kolocep.com. The original Croatian<br />
name of this hotel is ‘Vile Koločep’ but suppress your sniggers,<br />
this collection of eight three-storey villas set among olive<br />
trees makes an ideal laid-back island retreat. Rooms are neat<br />
and tidy with tiled floors, minibar, flat-screen TVs and desk<br />
space, and Koločep’s sandy beach is mere a stone’s throw<br />
away. Q149 rooms (9 singles €110, 81 doubles €160, 23<br />
triples €240, 21 Familiy Rooms €270, 15 Junior Suites €320).<br />
PTJHABKCW hhh<br />
Villa Vilina Obala Iva Kuljevana 5, Lopud, tel. (+385-20)<br />
75 93 33, fax (+385-20) 75 90 60, villa.vilina@gmail.<br />
com, www.villa-vilina.hr. The last word in elegance, this<br />
villa by Lopud’s Franciscan monastery and a tiny sandy beach<br />
has been beautifully renovated in a blend of traditional and<br />
contemporary styles to offer superb, well-equipped rooms and<br />
apartments and a lovely restaurant and terrace. Supremely<br />
relaxing - and friendly. Q15 rooms (12 doubles €120 - 190,<br />
3 Junior Suites €155 - 309). PAGBKCW hhhh<br />
Out of town<br />
<strong>In</strong>dijan Škvar 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 45 55,<br />
fax (+385-20) 71 45 67, indijan@indijan.hr, www.<br />
hotelindijan.hr. This family hotel is perfectly positioned<br />
with beachfront views and picturesque mountains in its<br />
surroundings. Furbished rooms have all the amenities a 4<br />
star hotel could ever offer. Friendly staff organise island tour<br />
packages to assist visitors. A family restaurant, terrace,<br />
swimming pool and spa are just some of its other features.<br />
Q16 rooms (3 singles €71 - 105, 11 doubles €111 - 201,<br />
2 apartments €151 - 241). PAFLGKDCW<br />
hhhh<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik<br />
www.dubrovniksungardens.com<br />
Plat Hotels and Villas Plat 47, Mlini, tel. (+385-20)<br />
48 90 00, fax (+385-20) 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat.<br />
hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr. Located 12km south of Dubrovnik<br />
and walking distance to the beach.New apartments are<br />
available for 2 to 3 people with your own kitchen and bath<br />
facilities. Car park included.Don’t miss the in-house Taverna<br />
Plat a-la-carte restaurant which cooks up delicious traditional<br />
gourmet dishes. Q236 rooms (129 doubles €90 - 180, 107<br />
apartments €90 - 220). PAFLGBKCW hhh<br />
Radissonblu Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, info.<br />
dubrovnik@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/<br />
resort-dubrovnik. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with<br />
this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the<br />
Old City. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe<br />
apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants<br />
offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines;<br />
the Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury<br />
wellness centre includes out of this world thermal facilities.<br />
Q 408 rooms (178 doubles from 250€, 207 Suites<br />
from 300€, 20 Junior Suites from 450€, 2 Executive<br />
Suites from 1500€, 1 Presidential Suite from 3000 €).<br />
PZTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
19
20 restAurAnts<br />
Croatian<br />
Bistro Glorijet H-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@<br />
gmail.com. Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll<br />
find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned<br />
into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible<br />
prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals<br />
as a good lunch spot. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(60 - 130kn). PAG<br />
Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63<br />
19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr.<br />
Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls<br />
of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes<br />
throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza<br />
Brsalje with Nautika (both<br />
restaurants have the same<br />
owners as Proto, Mimoza<br />
and Konavoski Dvori), and<br />
has a splendid view of the<br />
Lovrijenac, Minčeta and<br />
Bokar fortresses, and a peek<br />
of the deep blue beyond the<br />
walls. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.<br />
(55 - 150kn). PAUGB<br />
Karaka D-2, Old City<br />
Harbour, tel. (+385-) 091<br />
660 00 05/(+385-) 091<br />
358 18 88, booking@<br />
karaka.info, www.karaka.<br />
info. End a perfect summer’s day with a meal at sundown on<br />
a replica 16th century merchant ship just as they were made<br />
right here in Dubrovnik. It’s all in wood, rather luxurious, and<br />
the menu is just great - don’t miss local cured ham (pršut)<br />
and cheese. Q June 15 - September 5 Open 19:30 - 22:00.<br />
(60 - 120kn). AGB<br />
Symbol key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
E Live music S Take away<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking<br />
O Casino 6 Animal friendly<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet B Outside seating<br />
Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36,<br />
info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin.<br />
com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient<br />
weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your<br />
meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod<br />
peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
23:00. (60 - 110kn). PALGB<br />
Lady Pi Pi C-1, Peline bb. Wine and dine whilst overlooking<br />
the grand walls of Dubrovnik and sea. Large platters for fish<br />
and meat devotees are jammed with goodies and the food<br />
is cooked in front of you on an outdoor terrace with an open<br />
fire. The cuisine is freshly prepped and prices are fair. Q<br />
May Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00. June - September<br />
30 Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 23:00. Closed October.<br />
(65 - 150kn). JAB<br />
Mimoza J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20)<br />
41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.<br />
hr. <strong>In</strong> a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100<br />
meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle<br />
your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly<br />
without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded<br />
partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on<br />
meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes.<br />
Delivery is available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).<br />
PTAEGB<br />
Caught by the <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> team!<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/<br />
(+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan.com,<br />
www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny<br />
harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set<br />
in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s<br />
terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic<br />
Croatian cooking at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.<br />
(50 - 140kn). PJAGB<br />
Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala<br />
Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel<br />
Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41<br />
05 24/(+385-20) 41 05 25,<br />
info@petka.hr, www.croatiavacation.com.<br />
The food here<br />
is the subject of much praise<br />
among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and<br />
the service is fantastic. The<br />
taverna has a casual feel while the<br />
restaurant upstairs is the essence<br />
of modern refinement. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 120kn).<br />
PAGB<br />
Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04<br />
84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky<br />
south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant<br />
15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe<br />
is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food<br />
on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pureand-simple<br />
there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country<br />
recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with<br />
sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus<br />
mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PALGB<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather<br />
pleasant Mexican sits eccentrically just uphill from the Ploče<br />
gates and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos,<br />
tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and<br />
pasta. Try the piquant sausages and a black pancake to finish<br />
off with! Q Open 17:00 - 23:00. June 15 - September 15 Open<br />
14:00 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). PVNBS<br />
Domino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre for<br />
carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The<br />
outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun<br />
is especially lovely in hot weather. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.<br />
(80 - 140kn). PAGB<br />
Bakeries<br />
Galeta C/D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 3, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 10 89. Their sweet and savoury pastries are<br />
satisfyingly buttery and moreish. Try an apple (jabuka)<br />
or frankfurter (hrenovka) wrapped in puff pastry. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 22:00.<br />
Klas I-3, Pera Ćingrije 10, tel. (+385-20) 33 16 13.<br />
This bakery offers everything you need to survive late<br />
night munchies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Rusica I-2, Andrije Hebranga 54, tel. (+385-20) 41<br />
13 42. Crusty loaves to go with those fishes, plus pizza<br />
and “burek” filo pastry pies too. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
Zlatno zrno I-3, Iva Vojnovića 63b, tel. (+385-20)<br />
33 11 20. A place where you can eat pizza, pancerotta,<br />
“burek”, but also delicious cakes all day and all night long!<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Lucin kantun B-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
10 03. “Lucy’s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun,<br />
all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a<br />
rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.<br />
He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there’s<br />
a nice selection of desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20 -<br />
150kn). JAB<br />
Magellan I-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35<br />
94/(+385-) 095 908 37 41, restoran.magellan@yahoo.<br />
com. The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the<br />
natural light that floods through huge windows on all four<br />
sides. The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in<br />
modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most<br />
important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made;<br />
everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is<br />
first-class. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (52 - 122kn). PAGB<br />
Oyster & Sushi bar D-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. A seafood fiesta is on<br />
hand with oysters, prawns, salmon, tuna and a whole lot more<br />
to choose. The chefs do a scintillating job by making Japanese<br />
style sushi for those wanting a breather from Mediterranean<br />
delights. Not overly priced but staff are overly nice. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00. (24 - 135kn). PJAGBXW<br />
Porat K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial<br />
Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, sales.dubrovnik@<br />
hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Decked out in<br />
minimalist style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the<br />
lobby of the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in<br />
the light, bright conservatory or the large summer terrace).<br />
Fabulous, Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out<br />
for the head chef’s signature dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
(100 - 250kn). PJAGBX<br />
Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole<br />
Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 32 21/(+385-) 099<br />
323 22 12, kucaedo@<br />
du.t-com.hr. You guessed it,<br />
the Old Town’s only Bosnian<br />
restaurant, where you can<br />
enjoy good grilled meats<br />
including ćevapi - shish<br />
kebab. Try one of the pite<br />
pies (we love the spinach<br />
one). Sweet tooths will love<br />
baklava, others will fall<br />
into a sugar-induced coma!<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40<br />
- 115kn). AGB<br />
Taverna Otto I-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86<br />
33, tavernaotto@net.hr, www.tavernaotto.com. This<br />
charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a<br />
French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks<br />
to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We<br />
especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna<br />
steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose,<br />
you can’t go wrong. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00.<br />
(70 - 99kn). AGB<br />
Konoba<br />
Blidinje H-2, Lapadska obala 21, tel. (+385-20) 35 87<br />
94. You feel that ‘Dalmatian’ sparkle here with its old stony<br />
walls embellished by ancient artefacts. The restaurant is<br />
casual and snug, whilst the terrace offers picturesque views<br />
of the Gruž harbour, bay and surrounding hills. Situated in the<br />
heart of the Lapad peninsula, the meat and seafood dishes<br />
are local delights, and here they are baked under a metal<br />
bell, covered with hot ash which produces a delectable roast.<br />
Reasonably priced and nicely spiced! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40 - 95kn). PAGB<br />
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22 restAurAnts<br />
Jezuite C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-<br />
) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@gmail.com, www.<br />
dubrovnikrestaurant.com. Tucked away from the big crowds<br />
where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint<br />
Ignatius Church. Choose from a balanced choice of fish and<br />
meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is<br />
typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 150kn). JAB<br />
Linđo F-2, Iva Dulčića bb (Mali Stradun), tel. (+385-) 098<br />
131 90 98, lindjokonoba@gmail.com. Family restaurant<br />
with celebrated traditional home goodies on the menu, hence<br />
fresh salads, seafood and a fair range of meats, especially the<br />
age old ritual of roast under the iron pot. Simple and subtle,<br />
head towards the President Hotel Resort and it is part of<br />
the accompanying retail complex. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(50 - 150kn). PAGBXW<br />
Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned<br />
in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour,<br />
offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried<br />
small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to<br />
wait for a table. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. July, August Open<br />
11:00 - 01:00. (61 - 80kn). PAGBX<br />
Pjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-20) 42 09 49.<br />
Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you<br />
come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their<br />
advice and you might just get something a little out of the<br />
ordinary - real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under<br />
an iron bell. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). AGBX<br />
Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55,<br />
www.pupodubrovnik.com. Compact and bijou, this konoba<br />
offers a limited menu of well-prepared home style fish dishes<br />
and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the<br />
Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the<br />
cosy, jolly atmosphere. They serve breakfast. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 24:00. (60 - 180kn). JAGBXW<br />
Rozario D-2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-<br />
) 099 315 65 50, marin.vuletic@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip,<br />
this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its<br />
family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why<br />
you’ll often find the locals lunching here. QOpen 12:00 -<br />
23:00. (70 - 125kn). PAGBX<br />
Light bites<br />
Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10<br />
96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun<br />
where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as<br />
pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices.<br />
Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 01:00. (21 - 27kn). PJNG<br />
Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled<br />
in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk<br />
offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 02:00.<br />
Tutto Bene C-3, Od Puča<br />
7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53,<br />
www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.<br />
com. A refreshing discovery<br />
for those looking for something<br />
quick and tasty to munch: this<br />
modern little fast food joint has<br />
a super selection of sandwiches,<br />
tacos, burgers and pizzas as<br />
well as French fries and dips -<br />
yummy! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.<br />
(15 - 35kn). JA<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Mediterranean<br />
Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila<br />
bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20, marketing@ew-dubrovnik.<br />
com, www.ew-dubrovnik.com. <strong>In</strong> the beach complex by<br />
the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far<br />
East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches<br />
and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a<br />
strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A<br />
classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 125kn).<br />
PJALGB<br />
Nautika A-2, Brsalje 3,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26,<br />
sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.<br />
esculap-teo.hr. The place to<br />
splash out in style - a wonderful<br />
terrace overlooking the bay by<br />
the Pile gate, and a rather grand<br />
interior - your smelly trainers<br />
may raise an eyebrow or two.<br />
Imaginative cuisine inspired by<br />
your maritime surroundings.<br />
Expensive, but definitely in a<br />
class of its own in Dubrovnik<br />
dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(257 - 398kn). PJAGB<br />
Oliva Gourmet C-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
40 76, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www.olivadubrovnik.<br />
com. This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the<br />
narrow streets of the old town. The attractive interior is<br />
decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here<br />
they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(90 - 135kn). JB<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Panorama K,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20)<br />
31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com.<br />
hr. Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable<br />
car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right<br />
by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a<br />
spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food<br />
is excellent. Bring your sunglasses! Q June - August 31 Open<br />
09:00 - 24:00. September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
(70 - 158kn). PAGBXW<br />
Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76,<br />
kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The<br />
terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot<br />
to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or<br />
salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music<br />
in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 170kn). PJAEGBW<br />
Renaissance C-2, Vara bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 99,<br />
renaissance@du.t-com.hr, www.renaissance-restaurantdubrovnik.com.<br />
Light, Mediterranean meals with value-formoney<br />
lunch and dinner menus. The whole ceiling is hand<br />
decorated in floral motifs in shades of gold and red, while<br />
this rich style is complemented with photos of old Dubrovnik<br />
and the local saying Non bene pro toto libertas venditus auro<br />
(Freedom is not sold for even all the gold of the world). QOpen<br />
10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150). PAEGB<br />
Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29<br />
10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame.hr. An<br />
Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music<br />
and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes<br />
orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill<br />
sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and<br />
pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PAGBW<br />
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Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
estAurAnts<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
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26 restAurAnts<br />
Taverna Maslina<br />
F-3, Masarykov put 20<br />
(Dubrovnik Palace Hotel),<br />
tel. (+385-20) 43 03 57/<br />
(+385-20) 43 00 00,<br />
www.dubrovnikpalace.<br />
hr. The coolest design<br />
hotel in Dubrovnik has<br />
an elegant restaurant<br />
with sea views and<br />
stylish poolside seating.<br />
The cuisine is excellent:<br />
Dalmatian specialities<br />
with a contemporary twist,<br />
and light Mediterranean<br />
tastebud-tinglers. Grilled<br />
chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime treat. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (135 - 250kn). ALEGBXW<br />
Vapor I-3, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88,<br />
www.hotel-bellevue.hr. The Bellevue Hotel restaurant is<br />
perfectly located near the city centre and commands an<br />
amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes<br />
Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious<br />
diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy<br />
the more refined tongue. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (90 - 250kn).<br />
PAGBXW<br />
Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/<br />
(+385-) 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com,<br />
www.wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’<br />
back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with<br />
tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and<br />
cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional<br />
cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect<br />
quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance<br />
from Stradun. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 290kn). PGB<br />
Out of town<br />
Adio Mare Ulica Marca Pola 1, Korčula town, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 24 38 45. Whether it’s<br />
the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great<br />
charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song,<br />
Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the<br />
one with the queue waiting for a table! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). PJAGBX<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Breakfast<br />
Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
12 29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great<br />
surroundings. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (34 - 56kn). AB<br />
Komarda K,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31<br />
13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39, restorankomarda@<br />
gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. Get the day off to a<br />
good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast<br />
on everything from toast and croissants through rožata<br />
(the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg<br />
dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children’s breakfasts<br />
- all at reasonable prices. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. (12 -<br />
50kn). AB<br />
Orlando C,D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 73,<br />
sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. A perfect<br />
spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three<br />
tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun.<br />
Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can<br />
treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs,<br />
fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due<br />
to the prime location. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. JAB<br />
K O N O B A L I N Đ O<br />
BROCHURE OWNER<br />
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TRADITIONAL CROATIAN CUISINE PREPAIRED ON<br />
WOODEN GRILL & IRON BELL.<br />
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ADDRESS: IVA DULČIĆA BB<br />
TEL: +385 20 413454<br />
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EMAIL: lindjokonoba@gmail.com
Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31.<br />
The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is<br />
the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean<br />
over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great<br />
for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this<br />
little village just north of Dubrovnik. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40 - 200kn). ABW<br />
Bota Šare Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75<br />
44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail.<br />
com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova<br />
kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned<br />
stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more<br />
modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters,<br />
this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing<br />
the cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.<br />
(70 - 200kn). PALGB<br />
Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66,<br />
mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong<br />
selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks,<br />
plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey<br />
and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough!<br />
This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and<br />
is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(80 - 120kn). PAEGBXW<br />
Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20)<br />
75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr,<br />
www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia<br />
Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a<br />
crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly<br />
in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by<br />
sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto<br />
and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(60 - 100kn). PALGBXW<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Ice cream and cakes<br />
Homemade Icecream,<br />
Ana-Marija Bujić<br />
Dolce vita C-2,<br />
Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 16 66. This colourful<br />
little spot does great cakes,<br />
muffins and ice cream - among<br />
the best in town - just off Stradun.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNB<br />
GradsKavana D-3, Pred<br />
Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
12 02 / press 2, sales@meaculpa.hr,<br />
www.mea-culpa.hr.<br />
The excellent city coffee house,<br />
for many years a cult meeting<br />
place, has a superb collection<br />
of cakes. We particularly like the<br />
macaroni cake with walnuts and<br />
the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is<br />
excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.<br />
PJAB<br />
Sugar&Spice B-3, Sv. Josipa 5, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 40 39,/(+385-) 091 361 95 50, www.<br />
sugarandspicedubrovnik.com. Every once in a while<br />
most of us surrender to a craving and this small temple<br />
of sweet and salty Croatian homemade delicious cakes,<br />
tarts and souvenirs is just the haven needed. It is<br />
located in the tranquil part of the Old Town, just beside<br />
the Stradun where you can sit on the terrace and indulge<br />
in coffee or anything your taste buds desire. Q June,<br />
September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August<br />
Open 09:00 - 23:00. A<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
27
28 restAurAnts<br />
Konavoski dvori Ljuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79<br />
10 39/(+385-) 098 35 78 62, sales@esculap-teo.hr,<br />
www.esculap-teo.hr. Tables are scattered in thick woods<br />
watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the<br />
millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes<br />
(and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume.<br />
You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBX<br />
Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com. Set<br />
in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a<br />
fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour:<br />
try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers<br />
or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple<br />
strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBX<br />
Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying<br />
the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into<br />
Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables<br />
set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and<br />
local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a<br />
supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn).<br />
ALGB<br />
Leut Trumbićev put 17, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84<br />
77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.com,<br />
www.restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try<br />
quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront<br />
in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned<br />
among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it<br />
comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.<br />
(70 - 250kn). PAGBX<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Obala Obala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20)<br />
75 91 70, obala@du.t-com.hr. There can be few better<br />
places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala,<br />
set right on Lopud’s waterfront with a trio of stately palm<br />
trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and<br />
seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based<br />
alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes.<br />
Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping<br />
sea-water are on the house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (150 -<br />
300kn). PAGBX<br />
Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www.<br />
gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach<br />
and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food<br />
since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto<br />
(an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass<br />
that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(80 - 160kn). ALGBX<br />
Spinaker Frankopanska 10 (Hotel<br />
Croatia), Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47<br />
55 55, www.hotelcroatia.hr. Ahoy<br />
matey! Sea food lovers pay attention<br />
as this newly renovated restaurant<br />
offers delicious locally caught fish<br />
and grill specialties as inspired by<br />
Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine.<br />
Find yourself tucked away along the<br />
seashore with splendid views of the<br />
Cavtat bay; the fresh breeze and the<br />
sound of waves are a stone throw<br />
away. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60 -<br />
210kn). ANBX<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Triton Zaklopatica bb,<br />
Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80<br />
11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80<br />
65, konoba-triton@du.t-com.<br />
hr, www.triton.hr. A frequent<br />
stop on yachting trips: there’s a<br />
mooring right outside the house,<br />
and father / chef / fisherman<br />
Tonči has a very special way<br />
with island-grown capers. Fish<br />
carpaccio, marinated anchovy<br />
fillets, octopus salad, home<br />
made Mediterranean herb rakija<br />
- it’s all the stuff of dreams!<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 -<br />
200kn). NGBXW<br />
Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1,<br />
Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42<br />
33, fax (+385-20) 75 46 42, vila-koruna@du.t-com.hr,<br />
www.vila-koruna.hr. The restaurant is known for its pristine<br />
oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On<br />
offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished<br />
with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush<br />
and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail.<br />
Q8 rooms (3 doubles €92, 2 triples €115, 1 quad €136).<br />
PJHALBKW hhhh<br />
Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 67 22 01/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com,<br />
www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family<br />
run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local<br />
freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage<br />
doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of<br />
traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef<br />
in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50<br />
- 120kn). PALGBX<br />
restAurAnts<br />
Villa Ruža Donje Čelo bb, Koločep, tel. (+385-20) 75 70<br />
30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, info@villa-ruza.com, www.<br />
villa-ruza.com. The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable<br />
as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that<br />
local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped<br />
stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a haven.<br />
Chock a block selection of wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />
(40 - 170kn). ABX<br />
Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-<br />
) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@<br />
du.t-com.hr, www.zure.hr. If<br />
you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine<br />
sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t<br />
miss a meal at this rather special<br />
place. The owners catch, rear and<br />
grow everything that lands on<br />
your table. The food is excellent,<br />
and the pomegranate rakija a<br />
unique experience! QOpen 18:00<br />
- 24:00. (60 - 120kn). AGBX<br />
Pizza<br />
Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the first<br />
pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy!<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 2:30. (25 - 80kn). PNGBXSW<br />
Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30,<br />
meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves up<br />
a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit<br />
iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for<br />
ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood<br />
pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 01:00. (27 - 70kn). PJAGBS<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
29
30 restAurAnts<br />
Wine bars<br />
D’vino C-2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11<br />
30, info@dvino.net, www.dvino.net. <strong>In</strong> a narrow street<br />
just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling<br />
local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try<br />
from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and<br />
tourists, most of whom end up engaged in half-sozzled<br />
conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with<br />
wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as<br />
prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a<br />
bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
02:00. AB<br />
Froggy flavours<br />
Marko Sirovina<br />
The culinary repertoire of inland Dalmatia has always<br />
reserved a special role for the frog (žaba). Traditionally<br />
considered a staple of working families, frogs’ legs are<br />
now something of a delicacy, and urban foodies from Split<br />
and Zagreb will make special trips to provincial konobe to<br />
seek out the best frog recipes.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the Cetina region (Cetinska Krajina) inland from<br />
Split, frogs’ legs are usually fried in breadcrumbs or<br />
boiled with potatoes. The provincial town of Trilj is a<br />
popular gastronomic destination with two outstanding<br />
restaurants, the Lovac (021/ 831 268) and the Čaporice<br />
in the Sveti Mihovil hotel (021/831 770. <strong>In</strong> the Dubrovnik<br />
region, the reedy Neretva Delta is simply slithering<br />
with frogs and eels, and many of the local konobe have<br />
become cult destinations for devotees of swamp food.<br />
Konoba Vrilo in the village of Prud or Suđurađ i Mate in<br />
the village of Vid (both just outside the town of Metković),<br />
are the places to aim for.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Oliva D-3, Lučarica<br />
5, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
45 94. <strong>In</strong> an alleyway<br />
behind the Stradun,<br />
Oliva seems slightly<br />
more authentic than<br />
some of the other<br />
pizzerias in town,<br />
as if a bit more<br />
thought has gone<br />
into the quality of<br />
the ingredients that<br />
go on top of the pie.<br />
Pizzas come in sizes<br />
of either small (i.e.<br />
just about sufficient<br />
for one person) or<br />
large - the larger ones<br />
being big enough to<br />
feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming<br />
you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas<br />
and takeaway service also available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
(40 - 90kn). PAGBXW<br />
Seafood<br />
Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for<br />
its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices.<br />
It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of<br />
Mr Gundulić. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (58 - 110kn). ABS<br />
Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, sales@<br />
esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little<br />
brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful<br />
location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but<br />
meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience<br />
and friendly service make this a strong contender for<br />
top dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn).<br />
PAGB<br />
YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22,<br />
ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s<br />
yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable<br />
spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately<br />
enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks<br />
the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@<br />
nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com.<br />
Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small<br />
haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from<br />
all over the world including Mexican, <strong>In</strong>dian and Chinese.<br />
Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of<br />
thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make<br />
sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out<br />
on the joke. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ABS<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Culinary art<br />
Meet Ana-Marija Bujić: she’s from Dubrovnik, and apart<br />
from being a teacher and translator of French and English<br />
she’s also a food blogger. Her blog, Da mi je nešto<br />
slatko… (“If I had something sweet…”) has won an award<br />
as the best Croatian blog.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Croatia the food blog scene is rapidly developing, and<br />
you can find blogs that are written in both Croatian and<br />
English. The bloggers’ community, made up of people of<br />
all callings and age groups, has a fair number of treasures,<br />
not just great recipes but people who as well as being<br />
foodies are great travel writers, telling many a tale along<br />
the way. We first met Ana-Marija when she was still a<br />
student who loved nothing more than baking biscuits and<br />
cakes. Today she’s a queen of the culinary art.<br />
Why not spend a moment with Ana-Marija yourself? She’ll<br />
share a few secrets of the Dubrovnik kitchen…<br />
DIYP: “If I had something sweet...” How did you come up<br />
with that name?<br />
Ana-Marija: It was a spontaneous thing: the phrase was<br />
going round and round in my head so I decided that would<br />
be the best name!<br />
DIYP: You grew up in Dubrovnik. Can you tell us about<br />
some of your memories of the city as a child? And how<br />
do you see Dubrovnik today?<br />
Ana-Marija: Well, I’m not exactly ancient, but the old<br />
city has changed a lot since my childhood days. When<br />
I was little, the old city was still full of real life. It was a<br />
place where local people went for a stroll, to meet their<br />
friends, and it was a place where they actually lived. The<br />
old city centre was full of shops. You could see people<br />
criss-crossing Stradun, hurrying to get somewhere, and<br />
behind the green shutters on Stradun there were peoples’<br />
homes, not rental apartments and souvenir shops. Now<br />
everything is much more oriented towards tourism and<br />
visitors, there are great differences between the pace of<br />
life in the summer and in the winter. Within the city walls<br />
there is practically no life at all - everyone has moved to<br />
other parts of the city.<br />
DIYP: Ana-Marija, when was the first time you tried to<br />
make a meal which was your own recipe, and what was it?<br />
Ana-Marija: Believe me, I can’t remember! I didn’t<br />
consider it was a moment to remember, that’s probably<br />
why I’ve forgotten.<br />
restAurAnts<br />
DIYP: What do you like best about your mother’s and<br />
your grandmother’s cooking? Are there any traditional<br />
dishes you would recommend to people who want a real<br />
Dubrovnik gastronomic experience?<br />
Ana-Marija: My mother and grandmother will absolutely<br />
not compromise when it comes to ingredients: everything<br />
must be fresh and bought from trusted sources. Then<br />
it’s easy to turn these tasty ingredients into even more<br />
delicious food. Both my mother and grandmother are great<br />
cooks, and I love the fact that when I close my eyes I can<br />
exactly bring to mind the flavours and aromas of their<br />
food. Anyone who wants to sample real Dubrovnik cuisine<br />
mustn’t miss zelena menestra (cabbage greens stewed<br />
with smoked meats) in winter; in spring there’s asparagus<br />
with boiled eggs; in summer barbecued fish with a little<br />
rosemary served with boiled potatoes and chard, and in<br />
winter bitter orange marmalade.<br />
DIYP: Is there a traditional Dubrovnik recipe that you’ve<br />
published which has turned out particularly well?<br />
Ana-Marija: It’s difficult because they’re all so different,<br />
but if I had to choose one it would be buhtle (soft bread<br />
rolls with sweet or cheese fillings). I love all kinds of pastry,<br />
but these cakes have the real scent of home.<br />
DIYP: Do you have any insiders’ tips for people visiting<br />
Dubrovnik?<br />
Ana-Marija: Yes, lots of them! Oliva Gourmet if you love<br />
Mediterranean fusion; Proto and Orsan for fish, and the<br />
little restaurant Ništa for vegetarians.<br />
DIYP: What’s your favourite place in town for a cup of<br />
coffee and a cake?<br />
Ana-Marija: Believe it or not, I don’t drink coffee so I’m not<br />
at all qualified to answer that part, but for good cake I can<br />
recommend that you seek out the cake shop Sugar and<br />
Spice in Ulica sv. Josipa. They have never disappointed me.<br />
DIYP: Finally, can you give us a short and sexy recipe for<br />
our readers for this summer?<br />
Ana-Marija: <strong>In</strong> the right company, even the most ordinary<br />
recipe can be sexy, but my suggestion is pancakes with<br />
chilled mascarpone cream and caramel - you can’t go<br />
wrong.<br />
Photographs and an interview with Ana-Marija<br />
Bujić, Dubrovnik’s gem food blogger as she offers<br />
specialties and tip top recommendations in our<br />
Restaurants section.<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
31
32 CAFés<br />
<strong>In</strong> Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply<br />
not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato.<br />
This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving<br />
outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around<br />
here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee<br />
usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are<br />
available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela<br />
kava (white coffee).<br />
Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3. Among the many little cafés<br />
tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our<br />
favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place<br />
where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.<br />
PBX<br />
Biker’s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 764 69 19, bobara-komerc@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourghood just<br />
above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up<br />
with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will<br />
try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 23:00. PNB<br />
Blue Planet G-2, Masarykov put 3. Calling mums and<br />
dads: the Blue Planet is unadulterated heaven for you and<br />
your tribe. There are special kiddies’ toilets, a case full of<br />
picture books, a Nintendo Wii and non-stop cartoons on the<br />
TV, as well as coffee, sandwiches, cakes and salads for your<br />
devouring pleasure. Also breakfast on offer. QOpen 07:30 -<br />
23:30. PTNBW<br />
Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. <strong>In</strong> the heart of<br />
Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari<br />
from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show<br />
going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGB<br />
Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo.<br />
sanje@du.t-com.hr. This coffee house right on Stradun is<br />
the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to<br />
chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a<br />
well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location<br />
couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB<br />
Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes<br />
stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from<br />
Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady<br />
tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its<br />
youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.<br />
PAGB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Glam Café C-2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com.<br />
If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as<br />
coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. <strong>In</strong> the<br />
evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good<br />
start with one of their range of cocktails. QOpen 08:30 -<br />
02:00. JBW<br />
GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
12 02 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.<br />
hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and<br />
the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine<br />
architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful<br />
modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try<br />
the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
01:00. PJAGB<br />
Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60,<br />
brigita.mrkic@gmail.com. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t<br />
be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just<br />
above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music<br />
(commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica<br />
(herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends<br />
during high season. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. PBX<br />
Living Room I-2, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-20)<br />
31 22 03/(+385-) 091 567 26 32. A café/bar that is<br />
comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat<br />
amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well<br />
known for its fine coffee. Q June - September 15 Open 07:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. September 16 - October 31 Open<br />
07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW<br />
Porto Put Bruna Bušića 6, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 23 32<br />
34. It’s a hop out of town in the village of Srebreno (you can<br />
get there on the bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern<br />
space which serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar<br />
with dancing by night has proved to be very popular with local<br />
trendseters at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGBX<br />
Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More) F-2, Kardinala<br />
Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00,<br />
sales@hotel-more.hr, www.hotel-more.hr. This natural<br />
cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the<br />
human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar.<br />
No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are<br />
accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail<br />
and give rein to your imagination! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
Talir C-2, Antuninska bb. A classy spot to sup your coffee<br />
amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not<br />
enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings,<br />
you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 24:00. PB<br />
Špilja bar More (Cave bar More)<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
CAFés
Bars<br />
Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 65<br />
(+385-) 098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.<br />
mea-culpa.hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop<br />
for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized<br />
wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by<br />
midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge<br />
in a spot of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or<br />
combination. Spectacular. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. PAB<br />
Art K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail.<br />
com. Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll<br />
discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from<br />
old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha<br />
ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and<br />
smoothies all in one small but perfect package. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 02:00. B<br />
Buža D-4, Outside the city<br />
walls near St.Stephen’s tower,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/<br />
(+385-) 098 36 19 34. What<br />
a place to sit - rocky terraces<br />
overlooking the open sea south of<br />
the Old Town. There’s no running<br />
water here so bottled drinks only<br />
- which are pretty pricey - but the<br />
Eugen Miljan<br />
Culture Club Revelin<br />
laid back music and hedonistic<br />
mood make up for everything.<br />
Q June - September 30 Open 08:30 - 03:00. October Open<br />
according to weather conditions. B<br />
Capitano K-3, Između vrta 2, tel. (+385-) 098 36 64<br />
70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after<br />
which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and<br />
shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial<br />
dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth<br />
dressed to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PB<br />
nightLiFe<br />
Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the<br />
Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to<br />
rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll<br />
need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW<br />
None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99<br />
09, info@nonenina.com, www.nonenina.com. A perfect<br />
spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite<br />
the Rector’s Palace - you can see people climbing about on<br />
the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes<br />
the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy<br />
people. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PENB<br />
Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first floor<br />
of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible<br />
from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff.<br />
Has one computer which is free to use. Altogether a good<br />
atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.<br />
PENXW<br />
SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220<br />
20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Administering a much-needed<br />
dose of urban eating and drinking culture to the Old Town,<br />
this newly opened café-cum-diner and lounge bar has settled<br />
quickly into its own niche. Expect to find both local beer<br />
and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and<br />
an attractively-priced list of cocktails. There’s an excellent<br />
choice of upscale pub<br />
fodder in the shape of<br />
salads, burgers and<br />
steaks. Blending slate<br />
grey, soothing whites<br />
and mood-enhancing<br />
purples, the interior<br />
is smart and slinky<br />
without being overdone.<br />
If the delightfully dotty<br />
abstract mosaic on the<br />
back wall starts revolving<br />
in front of your eyes,<br />
though, it’s probably<br />
time you were in bed.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.<br />
PAEBW<br />
Boats<br />
Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. (+385-) 091 660 00<br />
05/(+385-) 091 358 18 88, booking@karaka.info, www.<br />
karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this beautiful<br />
replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of the 16th<br />
century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s not<br />
carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. Q June<br />
15 - September 5 Open 19:30 - 22:00. A<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
35
36 nightLiFe<br />
Antun Tony Zupanac, Chui<br />
Casinos<br />
Golden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel<br />
Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@<br />
major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Feeling lucky? Then<br />
visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It<br />
offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the<br />
newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas<br />
Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night<br />
from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and<br />
lounge bar music. The Casino’s free shuttle bus will pick you<br />
up and take you home in comfort. Everyone’s a winner at<br />
Golden Sun Casino! QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.<br />
Clubs<br />
Culture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort<br />
Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 946 89 61/(+385-) 091 250<br />
25 88, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin.<br />
com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used<br />
to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home<br />
to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often<br />
jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international<br />
music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and<br />
its seaside views. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. A<br />
Eastwest beach club L-5, Frana Supila 4, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 41 22 20, marketing@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.ewdubrovnik.com.<br />
The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers<br />
come to perfect their tans, since East West rents out funky<br />
loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi<br />
polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing<br />
‘til The Man says go home. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PAB<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70,<br />
clubfuego@gmail.com, www.dubrovniknightclub.com.<br />
A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often<br />
find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream<br />
rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights<br />
when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares?<br />
QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNB<br />
Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila 8, arl@du.htnet.hr, www.<br />
arl.hr. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine<br />
house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground<br />
nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An<br />
international multimedia festival is held here, which includes<br />
independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more.<br />
QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.<br />
Orlando J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, tel. (+385-20) 31<br />
26 74/(+385-) 098 192 77 60, klub_umo@yahoo.com.<br />
A multi-talented organisation organising excellent live bands,<br />
DJ appearances, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions and<br />
much much more, leaning towards the alternative stream of<br />
culture. Check out the club’s Fecebook page for what’s on.<br />
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Lounge bars<br />
Culto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer<br />
heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is<br />
its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere.<br />
Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly<br />
crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PABX<br />
Victoria L-2, Frana Supila 14 (Grand Villa Argentina),<br />
tel. (+385-20) 44 05 55, www.victoria-restaurant.<br />
com. Oozes class, classical architecture, quality service<br />
and contemporary ambience. Above all, the European menu<br />
nightLiFe<br />
concept changes with the seasons and focuses on local<br />
delights, organic products and fresh ingredients. With a<br />
majestic view that overlooks the Old City and a wine list that<br />
tingles the pallet, a gastronomic experience of elegance and<br />
panache waits. Q Open 18:00 - 01:00 and depending on<br />
weather conditions. AEK<br />
Pubs<br />
Arch Pub C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90,<br />
archpub@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikpub.com. As the<br />
name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral.<br />
One of the rare places playing music other than house and<br />
mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of<br />
stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep<br />
ordering those Irish beers they keep. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.<br />
PJENBXW<br />
Gaffe Pub C-3, Miha Pracata 4. The distinctive aroma,<br />
the big wooden bar and the wall decorations all announce<br />
one thing: this is an Irish pub. There are three big screens<br />
where you can watch football, rugby and cricket: a list to the<br />
left of the entrance door lets you know what’s on. Apart from<br />
Guinness, Kilkenny and Irish coffee, there’s a great selection<br />
of breakfasts served from 9:00 to 11:30 in summer. Out of<br />
season, you can pick up a light lunch here from 10:00 to<br />
15:00. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. JB<br />
Katie O’Connor’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@<br />
du.t-com.hr. Brand new in 2006 but managing to look<br />
centuries old, this delightful stone cellar in one of the streets<br />
leading north of Stradun is a decent spot to drink. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 02:00. PABX<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
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38<br />
whAt to see<br />
Dubrovnik justifiably invites hyperbole - every corner in the<br />
Old Town, in its entirey a UNESCO World Heritage site, has<br />
spellbinding charm and tells many a story. Although the<br />
city dates back to the 7th century, many buildings were<br />
devastated in a terrible earthquake in 1667, and were rebuilt<br />
resulting in the rather harmonious style you see today. The<br />
architects of Dubrovnik included the best of the Croatian<br />
masters, including Juraj Dalmatinac (also responsible for<br />
the cathedral at Šibenik and the entire town of Pag) in<br />
combination with masters from Venice, Dubrovnik’s main<br />
rival and trading partner. Architectural beauty is perhaps a<br />
cause of a deep immersion in the arts that manifests itself<br />
in galleries and festivals.<br />
Essential Dubrovnik<br />
Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)<br />
D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 23. The<br />
Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th<br />
century, and with the building of their monastery a century<br />
later, they became an important part of the city’s defences<br />
- the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town,<br />
vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone<br />
steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades<br />
have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout<br />
ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position,<br />
from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel<br />
of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick<br />
carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery<br />
church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof<br />
and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery,<br />
like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection<br />
of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great<br />
earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been<br />
invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old<br />
Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano<br />
and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and<br />
19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 18:00. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00.<br />
Admission 20kn.<br />
Lokrum Island L-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www.<br />
lokrum.hr. You don’t have to travel far to experience the<br />
tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15<br />
minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim.<br />
The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket<br />
of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake<br />
which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the<br />
east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented<br />
by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the<br />
monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently<br />
by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in<br />
Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph<br />
built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a<br />
botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a<br />
Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped<br />
fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great<br />
views. Q Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on<br />
the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore<br />
we suggest you contact the office for further information. A<br />
return ticket costs 50kuna.<br />
Stradun, Placa B/C-2. When talking about finding<br />
your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to<br />
Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the<br />
unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two<br />
main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and<br />
Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada,<br />
meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the<br />
uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the<br />
best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump<br />
into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress<br />
up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks<br />
the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts<br />
of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land<br />
south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock,<br />
since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came<br />
Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably<br />
been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it<br />
was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees<br />
from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the<br />
land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement was<br />
called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel<br />
was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun,<br />
and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.<br />
The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3,<br />
Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is<br />
perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting<br />
four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local<br />
artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show.<br />
A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a<br />
fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by<br />
Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor<br />
of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to<br />
the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old<br />
Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting<br />
for some of the most important events of the life of the<br />
city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the<br />
Slaven Tolj, Art Gallery Dubrovnik Archives 2006. – 2008.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
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Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a<br />
concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision<br />
contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages<br />
can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00,<br />
16:00 - 18:00. No admission.<br />
The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates<br />
(Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile,<br />
Vrata od Ploča), www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost<br />
two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among<br />
the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and<br />
a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were<br />
built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that<br />
on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows<br />
their primary purpose as defence against attack from the<br />
mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example,<br />
lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened<br />
by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached -<br />
the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies<br />
were invited in on condition that they would respect its<br />
independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east<br />
and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town,<br />
provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for<br />
concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac<br />
is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with<br />
traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under<br />
the stars. <strong>Your</strong> ticket to the city walls includes entrance to<br />
Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time<br />
used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland<br />
with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot.<br />
The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized<br />
battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s<br />
fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart<br />
from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and<br />
character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces.<br />
From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone<br />
bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled<br />
with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll<br />
see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. Q June - July<br />
31 Open 08:00 - 19:30. August - September 15 Open 08:00<br />
- 19:00. September 16 - October 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
Admission 30 - 70kn.<br />
The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and<br />
the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara<br />
apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca.hr.<br />
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an<br />
absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes,<br />
and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange<br />
trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy,<br />
among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working.<br />
The monastery houses a museum where you can see original<br />
items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with<br />
notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of<br />
the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the<br />
Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height.<br />
The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a<br />
real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00<br />
and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.<br />
The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom<br />
3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97. One of the loveliest buildings<br />
in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the<br />
Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just<br />
one month confining him to these quarters which he could only<br />
leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building<br />
changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder<br />
stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to<br />
the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and<br />
Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations<br />
were added in baroque style in the 17th century following<br />
the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio<br />
della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in<br />
gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly<br />
romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade<br />
with choir style decorative stone benches. <strong>In</strong>side, a beautiful<br />
courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is<br />
now a museum where you can view the richly appointed offices<br />
and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and<br />
prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the<br />
period are all on display. Q Admission 25 - 70kn.<br />
Museums<br />
Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) Bukovčeva 5,<br />
Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, muzej@kuca-bukovac.<br />
hr, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. See works by Vlaho Bukovac<br />
(1855-1922), one of the most famous modern Croatian<br />
painters, in the setting of his charming Cavtat home. Part<br />
of the house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young<br />
artists, offering an invigorating counterpoint. Q Open 09:00<br />
- 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Admission 20kn.<br />
precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical Dubrovnik Natural History Museum<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni<br />
muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.<br />
Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872<br />
when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with<br />
a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the<br />
private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac.<br />
The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not<br />
appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot<br />
too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for<br />
hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions which<br />
currently include photography by the Croatian Biospeliological<br />
Sociaty of the cave life of the Dubrovnik region. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free<br />
Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej<br />
Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe”<br />
is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in<br />
this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported<br />
grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating<br />
building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic,<br />
cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk<br />
costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region<br />
where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Tue. Admission 25 - 70kn.<br />
Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John’s<br />
fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04.<br />
Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the<br />
growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s<br />
most important museums. The display of models of the<br />
fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy<br />
tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were<br />
used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the<br />
Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is<br />
housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25 - 70kn.<br />
Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene<br />
povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 48 56. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering<br />
documentation on contemporary history since World War Two,<br />
including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can<br />
see all their exhibitions in the Rector’s Palace. The museum<br />
doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.<br />
The Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)<br />
B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 41,<br />
arheoloski.muzej@dumus.hr. The Archeological museum<br />
currently does not have a permanent residence, and some<br />
of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see<br />
objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the<br />
Old Town, including fragments of early Romanesque churches<br />
featuring the attractive plaitwork typical of Dalmatia. A<br />
prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the<br />
Pelješac peninsula. The museum doesn’t have a permanent<br />
display but occasional exhibitions.<br />
The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)<br />
B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32<br />
32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic<br />
town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić<br />
only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian<br />
literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a<br />
wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of<br />
letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in<br />
overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it<br />
was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical<br />
plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European<br />
renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed<br />
into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies<br />
are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
whAt to see<br />
One Ticket, Four Museums<br />
Those wishing to visit the Rector’s Palace, the<br />
Ethnographic Mueseum, the Maritime Museum or the<br />
Revelin Fortress must now buy a ticket for 70 kn (adults),<br />
or 40 kn (children), which enables you to visit all four<br />
museums over a 7-day period.<br />
The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i<br />
židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352,<br />
the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum<br />
are set in a building which could be reached from within the<br />
surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A<br />
permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end<br />
of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and<br />
Spain. The community flourished and included respected<br />
doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in<br />
Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some<br />
restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The<br />
Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and<br />
a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains<br />
valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information<br />
on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q Open<br />
10:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.<br />
Churches<br />
Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help<br />
over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you.<br />
That’s why they engaged in building so many churches. Here<br />
are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town.<br />
Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of<br />
Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)<br />
B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this<br />
pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks<br />
like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was<br />
probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in<br />
the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent<br />
here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains<br />
household objects they used in order to support their order<br />
(e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks,<br />
including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one<br />
time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was<br />
especially venerated at Christmas time. Q June, September<br />
Open on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31<br />
Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission<br />
10 - 15kn.<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
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whAt to see<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
43
44 whAt to see<br />
Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa<br />
bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from<br />
the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette<br />
window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful<br />
citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it<br />
is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with<br />
carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for<br />
concerts and recitals.<br />
Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i<br />
bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the<br />
Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed<br />
part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary<br />
church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space.<br />
The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist<br />
and baroque styles.<br />
Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons<br />
(Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8,<br />
tel. (+385- 20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church<br />
was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive<br />
wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly<br />
Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive<br />
collection should head for the museum on the second floor of<br />
the building next door. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 21:00.<br />
Church Admission free.<br />
The Aquarium (Akvarij)<br />
E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
39 78. Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress<br />
(Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to<br />
know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it.<br />
Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less<br />
than impressed. Q June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 40kn.<br />
St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4,<br />
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00.<br />
Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the<br />
southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit<br />
church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque<br />
staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome<br />
(1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by<br />
architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the<br />
period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church<br />
of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the<br />
church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.<br />
Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining<br />
college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly<br />
atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city.<br />
Mass in English <strong>In</strong> June, July and August mass is held in<br />
English every day at 12:00.QOpen 06:30 - 20:00.<br />
St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)<br />
C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now<br />
houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of<br />
town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.<br />
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2,<br />
Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was<br />
originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for<br />
early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was<br />
added in 1607. <strong>In</strong>side, you can see stone ornaments in an<br />
interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter,<br />
which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting<br />
of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.<br />
St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)<br />
D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by<br />
the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint<br />
protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of<br />
the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone<br />
steps and balustrade.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik Cable Car<br />
L-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53<br />
93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www.<br />
dubrovnikcablecar.com. Travel in style to the peak<br />
of Mount Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778<br />
meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the<br />
Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces<br />
equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a<br />
panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The<br />
lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir<br />
Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be<br />
bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount<br />
Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates<br />
where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other<br />
places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets<br />
are payable in euro. Q June - August 31Open 09:00 -<br />
24:00. September - October 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00.<br />
Adults 50 - 87kn, Children 25 - 40kn, children under 4 free.<br />
The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3/4, Držićeva poljana,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96.<br />
The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies<br />
the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure<br />
Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way<br />
you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter<br />
of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the<br />
Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects<br />
Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of<br />
an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed<br />
in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another<br />
earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in<br />
fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th<br />
or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous<br />
for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St<br />
Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and<br />
foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the<br />
11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption<br />
by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass:<br />
07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. QOpen 09:00<br />
- 17:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:00. Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.<br />
Landmarks<br />
Đurovića Cave -<br />
Skycellar Dubrovnik<br />
Airport, Čilipi. So your<br />
plane lands and minutes<br />
later you find yourself<br />
in a cave! Yes, it is<br />
true! Just beneath the<br />
Dubrovnik Airport, there<br />
is a cave that stretches<br />
200 meters in length and is a fast growing attraction. Audio<br />
guides in English, Russian and Croatian will take you through<br />
this adventure where Mother Nature has for centuries been<br />
working her magic. As a memento of your visit, the aptly<br />
named Skycellar offers a vast range of authentic wines from<br />
this region as well as genuine souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 -<br />
18:00. Tickets 15 - 40kn.<br />
Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3.<br />
This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing<br />
in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman<br />
and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary<br />
Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him<br />
was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his<br />
home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival<br />
powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants<br />
and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.<br />
whAt to see<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
45
46 whAt to see<br />
Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i<br />
mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska<br />
Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular<br />
sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile<br />
Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central<br />
dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps<br />
around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for<br />
tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct<br />
that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built<br />
from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the<br />
first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.<br />
Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with<br />
a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake<br />
and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little<br />
masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near<br />
the tower at the other end of Stradun.<br />
Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom.<br />
<strong>In</strong> front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a<br />
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and<br />
legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility.<br />
The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag<br />
of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic.<br />
Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s<br />
enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the<br />
marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of<br />
the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned<br />
to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s<br />
right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional<br />
Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or<br />
lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient<br />
measure near the bottom of the sculpture.<br />
The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)<br />
D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that<br />
crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of<br />
two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up<br />
to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two<br />
older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green<br />
color is a result of their copper composition rather than their<br />
roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‘the<br />
green ones’ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents<br />
of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original<br />
part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was<br />
destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes<br />
and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for<br />
casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John<br />
the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst<br />
centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.<br />
The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica<br />
i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South<br />
of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a<br />
remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal,<br />
with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here,<br />
galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a<br />
place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating<br />
throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating<br />
overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers<br />
of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The<br />
buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine<br />
sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians<br />
gathered there on a warm evening.<br />
The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3. Dubrovnik<br />
owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that<br />
the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the<br />
4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by<br />
the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town<br />
now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount<br />
Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the<br />
maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman<br />
Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying<br />
Revelin Fortress<br />
Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik,<br />
it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground<br />
floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first<br />
floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.The<br />
exhibit Sculptures from the Middle Ages is linked to the<br />
material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City<br />
its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone<br />
and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits,<br />
windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic<br />
style. These artefacts have been gathered from the<br />
Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they<br />
date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit<br />
Archaeological research and foundry workers present<br />
how the very building you are standing in, was built.<br />
Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction<br />
as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons<br />
and bells, and the houses of different stone masons<br />
and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at<br />
the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of<br />
the fortress due to potential Venetian danger. Ascend<br />
one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum<br />
with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see<br />
archived documents, walk through summer residences<br />
and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the<br />
Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses<br />
and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly<br />
inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important<br />
part of Dubrovnik’s heritage. Q Admission to all the<br />
exhibits aforementioned costs 25 - 70kn.<br />
the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties<br />
with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to<br />
establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in<br />
rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and<br />
a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew<br />
wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice.<br />
During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant<br />
navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly<br />
important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful<br />
galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it<br />
was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica<br />
in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at<br />
Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for<br />
embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the<br />
local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.<br />
The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates<br />
is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the<br />
courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine<br />
houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings<br />
were usually destroyed when the need for them passed,<br />
Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe.<br />
The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’<br />
workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the<br />
venue for concerts and DJ parties.<br />
Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum B-2,<br />
Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun),<br />
info@visiadubrovnik.com, www.visiadubrovnik.com. The<br />
ancient walls of St. Clara’s Convent are new home to a state<br />
of the art 5D multimedia museum. With the use of virtual<br />
reality and hologram projections, visitors are taken through<br />
an incredible journey into the history and culture of Dubrovnik<br />
and Croatia. Offered in six languages, experience the trials<br />
and tribulations of this grand city. Whilst there, see the World<br />
Network Concept, a fun way of spreading peace virtual style!<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 50 - 75kn. U<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
People have always been curious to discover the secrets<br />
concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks<br />
mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails.<br />
But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and<br />
many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal<br />
the greatest mysteries of the planet.<br />
On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s<br />
dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for<br />
example, that towards the end of the 19th century people<br />
from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when<br />
diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from<br />
Slovenia named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised<br />
diving as a recreational pastime. They published photographs<br />
and writings documenting their underwater adventures in the<br />
1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using<br />
diving equipment they had made themselves.<br />
Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s<br />
all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic<br />
may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared<br />
with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of<br />
diving enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic<br />
definitely have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore.<br />
This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination<br />
of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers.<br />
The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either<br />
rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in<br />
some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong<br />
tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in<br />
places, mainly in channels where the water surges between<br />
islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands.<br />
Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great<br />
deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the<br />
Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique<br />
to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive<br />
underwater rock faces and reefs and is dotted with<br />
shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane<br />
which has found its way down there. And this fascinating<br />
world extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.<br />
diving in the AdriAtiC<br />
Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet, (Archives)<br />
The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by<br />
divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The<br />
coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place<br />
of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern<br />
parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent<br />
waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of<br />
the most attractive locations here are around the islands of<br />
Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik<br />
area.<br />
Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting –<br />
and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret<br />
underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are:<br />
the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the<br />
Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear<br />
Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica<br />
on the island of Korčula.<br />
Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other<br />
potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that<br />
diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and<br />
moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature<br />
reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks<br />
and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.<br />
Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet, (Archives)<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
47
48 diving in the AdriAtiC<br />
Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks<br />
with a special permit. And you need prior permission from<br />
the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following<br />
locations:<br />
The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo<br />
and Palagruža<br />
Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent<br />
Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57<br />
The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat<br />
So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an<br />
individual or as part of a group.<br />
If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia,<br />
contact a registered diving instructor, school or association<br />
(see the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If<br />
you’re going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark<br />
the spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. <strong>In</strong>dividual<br />
divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local<br />
harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive<br />
to depths greater than 40m.<br />
The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but<br />
there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant<br />
sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed<br />
or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile<br />
characters may become aggressive if they perceive you<br />
as a threat. It goes without saying that each and every<br />
diver is responsible for protecting the fragile underwater<br />
environment. <strong>Your</strong> aim should be to leave no trace of your<br />
dive when you have finished.<br />
Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves<br />
or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination<br />
for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and<br />
techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite<br />
safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive<br />
to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid<br />
putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course,<br />
before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you<br />
know exactly what you’re doing!<br />
We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!<br />
Dive centres<br />
Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre G-2, Iva<br />
Dulčića 35 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel.<br />
(+385-) 098 24 43 49/(+385-) 099 256 12 56,<br />
diving.hr@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com.<br />
Q Open 09:30 - 18:00 and by appointment.<br />
Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet F-3,<br />
Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanet-diving.com,<br />
www.blueplanet-diving.com.Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Epidaurum Šetalište Žal 31, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20)<br />
47 13 86, epidaurum@du.t-com.hr, www.epidaurum.<br />
com. Q Open 09:30 - 18:30.<br />
Diving Club Dubrovnik G/H-1, Solitudo Bay, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@<br />
du-diver.hr, www.du-diver.hr. On Babin Kuk facing the<br />
Gruž harbour. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnk is far from being just a walk-round museum<br />
of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the<br />
middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and<br />
is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling<br />
and generally pottering around.<br />
The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on<br />
a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high<br />
summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north.<br />
Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as<br />
Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge<br />
through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.<br />
Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik<br />
region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering<br />
half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of<br />
Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.<br />
Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the<br />
beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from<br />
Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist<br />
office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to<br />
the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel<br />
agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.<br />
With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal<br />
waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or<br />
horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.<br />
If you fancy quad-bike safaris or paint-balling, check out<br />
what’s on offer at the Prevlaka Nature Park or the Kojan<br />
Koral (see listings below).<br />
Adventure & Travel<br />
ATV Quad Safari Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)<br />
098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr.<br />
Vroom! Vroom! Pick up your helmet, get behind the wheel and<br />
prepare yourself for some major dirt filled action. Four wheeler<br />
(All Terrain Vehicles) are the form of transport as you cross<br />
rivers and drive across different terrain along the Konavle<br />
mainland. You are picked up at your place of stay and taken<br />
to the Kojan Konavle Koral Estate, there you are instructed on<br />
procedures and then the true adventure begins! <strong>In</strong>tended for<br />
groups of 7 - 14 people and it is 500 - 600kuna per person.<br />
Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.<br />
Excursions on the Neretva boats<br />
diving in the AdriAtiC sport 49<br />
Climbing<br />
Prevlaka Nature Park Prevlaka, tel. (+385-20) 79 15<br />
55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www.park-prevlaka.hr. This<br />
park offers loads for active souls - choose between biking,<br />
canoing or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you can<br />
have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in the<br />
clean sea. Entry 15kn. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Horse riding<br />
Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-)<br />
098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.<br />
hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the<br />
Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof<br />
instructions are provided. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by<br />
prior arrangement.<br />
Sea kayaking<br />
Adriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 31 27 70/(+385-) 091 722 04 13, info@<br />
adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Step back in time as you paddle in traditional Neretva vessels along the Delta of the Neretva River. You will pass through<br />
areas where the ancient Greeks, Illyrians and Romans used to sail, not to mention the pirates of this region that were<br />
known to attack their enemies from such positions. Dig in to the traditional gastronomic specialties including ‘Neretva<br />
Brudet’, a type of stew made from frog and eels. When back on the mainland, you can visit the Ornithological Collection<br />
in Metković and the archeological site of the ancient Narona. For more information, please contact:<br />
Restaurant Lopoč, tel. (+385-20) 69 30 34, www.restaurant-lopoc.com; Restaurant Adria, tel. (+385-) 099 388 99<br />
99; Konoba Narona, tel. (+385-) 098 32 37 49.<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
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Sport events<br />
03.08 Friday - 05.08 Sunday<br />
South Dalmatian Regatta<br />
Orebić - Dubrovnik.<br />
18.08 Saturday<br />
Sailing regatta - The Elaphite Islands Cup<br />
Koločep Channel.<br />
01.09 Saturday<br />
Musical Regatta<br />
Koločep Channel.<br />
15.09 Saturday<br />
Sailing regatta - Gradelana<br />
Koločep Channel.<br />
Adventure Dalmatia Pile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59<br />
42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, deni@adventuredalmatia.<br />
com, www.adventuredalmatia.com. Sea kayaking around<br />
Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on<br />
091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13. Q April - October Open<br />
08:00 - 22:00.<br />
LaurAdventure K-4, Istarska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 930 92<br />
60/(+385-) 091 530 25 12, info@laura-adventure.com,<br />
www.laura-adventure.com. Sea kayaking, free climbing,<br />
trekking. For info call the mobiles above. Q Working hours<br />
by appointment.<br />
Tennis<br />
Babin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 44 76 27. You should call for an appointment to<br />
check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour. Q Open<br />
07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.<br />
Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira<br />
bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@<br />
gmail.com. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier.<br />
80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay<br />
100kn. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.<br />
Workshops<br />
29.06 Friday - 07.07 Saturday<br />
Trekking & Photography Korčula, info@<br />
robertmarnika.com. After last year’s success in Zadar,<br />
this event moves to Korčula. It’s a double whammy<br />
with workshops on digital photography combined with<br />
trekking. So get your boots on and load up your camera<br />
with some great snapshots ready to be taken.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Take a hike!<br />
<strong>In</strong> Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around<br />
the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres.<br />
After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula,<br />
or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala<br />
Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount<br />
Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb, but with the prospect<br />
of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle<br />
has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks,<br />
remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office<br />
in Cavtat for a map.<br />
Get a taste of the fresh outdoors on foot! Visitors who<br />
prefer walking can investigate Konavle by strolling down<br />
the nicely decorated pathways which lead you to unique<br />
beaches along the Konavle rocks known only to locals.<br />
For more information, contact the Konavle Tourist<br />
Association. Paths: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi/Čilipi-Radovčići/<br />
The “Ronald Brown” Path.<br />
Cycling<br />
For those seeking more of an active holiday and are keen<br />
on seeing more than the city itself, why not choose from<br />
the 60km of cycling roads and tracks that are available<br />
throughout the Konavle area. Bicycles can be hired at<br />
tourist agencies (look in our Getting Around section)<br />
where you can also get detailed instructions and road<br />
maps. <strong>In</strong> case you are already near Konavle itself, contact<br />
the Konavle Tourist Association for more information.<br />
Theme routes: Cavtat-Močići-Čilipi (starting point Cavtat<br />
- Bus Station)/Cavtat-Zvekovica-Miljasi (starting point<br />
Cavtat - Bus Station)/Čilipi-Gruda-Ljuta-Pridvorje (starting<br />
point Čilipi - Main square).<br />
sport<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
51
52 MAiL & phones<br />
City codes<br />
Zagreb 01<br />
Split 021<br />
Šibenik 022<br />
Zadar 023<br />
Rijeka 051<br />
Post<br />
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you<br />
can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure<br />
they’re right value for what you are sending and where.<br />
Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These<br />
are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around<br />
town.<br />
Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 36 20 68.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Lapad G-2, Miljenka Bratoša 21, tel. (+385-20) 36 28<br />
40.Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
June - August 31 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Pile J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 2, tel. (+385-20) 41<br />
12 65.Q Open 08:30 - 15:00, Mon 08:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun.<br />
Stari grad B-2, Široka 8, tel. (+385-20) 36 28 42.Q<br />
Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. June -<br />
August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Making the call<br />
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,<br />
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope<br />
you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course).<br />
Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s<br />
six- or seven-digit number, and place the receiver to<br />
your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code<br />
(020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed<br />
by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial<br />
00 (the international access code), the appropriate<br />
country code, a city or area code if applicable and the<br />
subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad:<br />
Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s<br />
country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and<br />
the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile<br />
numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091,<br />
092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number<br />
and wait for a human voice. For an international call to<br />
a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code,<br />
385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the<br />
remaining digits.<br />
Postal rates<br />
Letters up to 50gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn<br />
Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60kn, Abroad 3.10kn<br />
Express mail<br />
City Ex I-2, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 18 00/<br />
(+385-) 0800 303 333, dubrovnik@cityex.hr, www.<br />
cityex.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed<br />
Sun. N<br />
DHL L-2, Frana Supila 12 (Hotel Excelsior), tel. (+385-<br />
1) 665 11 11, www.dhl.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Sat, Sun. A<br />
Public telephone<br />
You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at<br />
any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50<br />
and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone<br />
cards which give you substantial discounts when calling<br />
abroad.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet places<br />
Hugo 1 B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 69/<br />
(+385-) 091 211 11 66. <strong>In</strong>ternet, playstation and PC games,<br />
burning photos, scanning and printing. Ring home for cheap<br />
too! (7kn/15min, half an hour 10kn and 20kn/1h.) QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00.<br />
Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25,<br />
netcafe_dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A<br />
sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 10kn/15min<br />
surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect your laptop.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. July - September Open 09:00 - 01:00.<br />
PNB<br />
Snoopy I-2, Bana Jelačića 33, tel. (+385-20) 31 22 74,<br />
ravosium@du.t-com.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, 18:00 -<br />
23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. 30kn / hour.<br />
Mobile phones<br />
Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most<br />
everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent<br />
growths that have attached themselves to ears or<br />
cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting<br />
tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that<br />
shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that<br />
churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy<br />
enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation<br />
in this central European location. The networks that<br />
exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095)<br />
and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place.<br />
Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a<br />
cash machine.<br />
SIM Cards<br />
Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following.<br />
They all have numerous selling points throughout the<br />
city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you.<br />
T-Centar I-2, Starčevićeva 47, tel. (+385-) 0800<br />
1550, www.t-mobile.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Tele 2 Centar H/I-2, Nikole Tesle 2 (TC Minčeta),<br />
tel. (+385-20) 35 65 89, www.tele2.hr.QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Vip Centar L-2, Frana Supila 5, tel. (+385-) 091 77<br />
00, www.vipnet.hr.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00<br />
- 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Public transport<br />
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray,<br />
freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they<br />
are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour<br />
with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to<br />
Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the<br />
north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or<br />
any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map.<br />
Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news<br />
kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be cancelled in<br />
the ticket-stamping machines immediately on boarding.<br />
Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to<br />
Cavtat for example costs 20kn each way) and tickets are<br />
bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr<br />
Taxi<br />
The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call<br />
0800 09 70 otherwise you’ll find them on the following<br />
ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour,<br />
Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 25kn start, 8kn<br />
per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 80kn per hour<br />
for waiting.<br />
getting MAiL & Around phones 53<br />
Train<br />
Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve<br />
Dubrovnik. <strong>In</strong>ter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče<br />
train, travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting<br />
towns such as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal<br />
people would probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour<br />
odyssey and travel to Split, then continue south by coach,<br />
especially since the Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less<br />
than six hours, or you can take the sleeper.<br />
Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading<br />
their car on a night train at 23:20 (186.30kn - 266.30kn,<br />
plus the price of a passenger ticket) travelling to Split and<br />
then continuing south. However, since the Zagreb-Split<br />
motorway has reduced journey times to about 5 hours<br />
(traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take<br />
the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-<br />
Osijek-Budapest route, which takes the best part of 17<br />
hours.<br />
Long distance coaches<br />
Since there’s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long<br />
distance coach has long been the best way to travel to<br />
cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services<br />
to almost all Croatian destinations, while international<br />
lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a<br />
handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach<br />
travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a<br />
budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with<br />
Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money<br />
and a 14 hour journey!<br />
Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala<br />
pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.<br />
libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30.<br />
Road help tel. 1987<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012
54 getting Around<br />
Parking<br />
Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to<br />
parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving<br />
around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free<br />
space. <strong>Your</strong> best bet is to head for the multi-storey car<br />
park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica bb, K-2), wellplaced<br />
for people entering the city from the west. A bus<br />
shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s<br />
Pile Gate, although with Pile lying a mere ten minutes<br />
downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs<br />
5 - 30kn/hour or 85 - 360kn/day depending which zone<br />
you’re in and the season.<br />
Text message parking. Croatia was the first ever<br />
country to introduce payment by text message for street<br />
parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone<br />
you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a<br />
text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the<br />
four digit number shown. <strong>Your</strong> payment is confirmed when<br />
you get a message back from them. Different zones have<br />
different max waiting times and prices.<br />
Car rental<br />
Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43<br />
70 66/(+385-) 098 34 49 64, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr,<br />
www.adriarent.hr. You can also rent a scooter. Q Open<br />
08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Avis - Budget H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1 (Port<br />
terminal), tel. (+385-20) 31 36 33/(+385-) 091 314<br />
30 10, dubrovnik.dt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.com.hr.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A<br />
Dollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@<br />
subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 20:00. A<br />
Hertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/<br />
(+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www.<br />
hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel:<br />
(+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 11:00. A<br />
Uni rent Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34<br />
80/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, uni-rent@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
uni-rent.com. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Airport<br />
Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi,<br />
Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 33 33/(+385-20) 77 32 22,<br />
www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets<br />
for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get<br />
around the country by plane. There are a limited number of<br />
tickets selling at rock bottom prices so be sure to reserve<br />
your ticket well in advance - otherwise you’ll need a whole<br />
lot of luck to get your hands on these. <strong>In</strong>ternational flights<br />
are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget<br />
airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See<br />
the airline websites for reservations.<br />
Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station,<br />
tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check<br />
with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car<br />
there’s a long stay car park (the first 15min parking is free<br />
of charge, anything over 15min and up to 24hours will cost<br />
between 5 - 40kn. Parking beyond 24 hours thereafter is<br />
2kuna per hour. <strong>In</strong> case you do lose your parking ticket, a<br />
300kn payment is required).<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Bike rental<br />
Teuta Trumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97<br />
86/(+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.<br />
cavtat.biz. Q April - October 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
November - May 31 Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 25kn/<br />
hour, 100kn/day. A<br />
Ferry<br />
G&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19,<br />
gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. Tickets can be bought<br />
in Gruž Harbour from the Jadrolinija kiosk at least one hour<br />
before departure. The kiosk closes one hour before the boat<br />
sails. Q 25 - 70kn per person.<br />
Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41<br />
80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q June 2 - July Open 08:00 -<br />
20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 08:00 - 22:00. July 2 - 29 Open 08:00<br />
- 20:00, Mon, Wen 08:00 - 22:00. July 30 - August 14 Open<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00. August 15 - 31 Open<br />
08:00 - 22:00, Tue 08:00 - 20:00. September 1 - 30 Open<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 08:00 - 22:00. October Open<br />
08:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen, Fri 19:00 - 22:00.<br />
One way ticket is 23kn per person.<br />
Mediteranska plovidba Trg kralja Tomislava 2,<br />
Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 11 56. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Gas stations 0-24<br />
Komolac Ogarići 8, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 33,<br />
www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Kupari Kupari bb, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10<br />
38, www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Opuzen Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 43,<br />
www.ina.hr. Free info phone 0800 11 12. QOpen<br />
00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Harbourmaster’s office<br />
Harbourmaster’s office (Lučka kapetanija) I-2/3,<br />
Obala Stjepana Radića 37, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 88,<br />
www.mmtpr.hr. 24 hours <strong>In</strong>fo: 41 89 89 QOpen 08:00 -<br />
14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Port authority<br />
Dubrovnik Port Authority H-1, Obala pape Ivana<br />
Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 33, padubrovnik@<br />
portdubrovnik.hr, www.portdubrovnik.hr. Q June<br />
- September 15 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
September 16 - May 31 Open 08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Towed away<br />
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might<br />
come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that<br />
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in<br />
Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad). Most of the year<br />
it’s Open 24 hours and from December till February from<br />
07:00 - 23:00. The bad news is you’ll be charged anything<br />
from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up<br />
to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people<br />
there speak English and accept payment by credit card.<br />
Sanitat Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-20) 33 10 16,<br />
42 88 58, info@sanitatdubrovnik.hr, www.<br />
sanitatdubrovnik.hr<br />
Transfers<br />
Avantgarde Service H-1, Sv. Križa 3, tel. (+385-20) 41<br />
74 99/(+385-) 098 925 23 93, info@dubrovnik-transferi.<br />
com, www.dubrovnik-transferi.com. Transport at its best!<br />
Whether you are on a business trip, sightseeing, or wish to<br />
do a tour, Avantgarde Services will accommodate all your<br />
needs. Choose from high quality limousines, a VIP van for<br />
delegations or taxi services at competitive rates, they have<br />
it all. From a one off trip to assisting in corporate events,<br />
everything can be catered for. Have your own chauffeur at<br />
your very doorstep and with the utmost professional service!<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. N<br />
Travel Agencies<br />
Atlas A-2/K-3, Sv. Đurđa 1, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 84/<br />
(+385-) 0800 44 22 22, atlas.grad@atlas.hr, www.atlascroatia.com.<br />
One of the biggies - all kinds of trips in store.<br />
Fancy trying a canoe or jeep safari? Step this way... QOpen<br />
08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A<br />
getting Around<br />
Dubrovnik Travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 31 35 55, croatia@dubrovniktravel.hr, www.<br />
dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours!<br />
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@<br />
elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing<br />
in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Gulliver travel I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 41 08 88, gulliver@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.<br />
hr. Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers.<br />
Also at F-2, Babin Kuk, Mali Stradun, tel. 091 603 51 23,<br />
Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Perla Adriatica L-2, Frana Supila 2, tel. (+385-20)<br />
42 27 66/(+385-) 098 33 45 00, info@perla-adriatica.<br />
com, www.perla-adriatica.com. By the Ploče gates, a good<br />
place to try if you’re looking for private accommodation. Also<br />
excursions, rental of bikes, scooters and boats, plus exchange<br />
services. Q June, September, October Open 09:00 - 22:00.<br />
July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00. N<br />
Viator travel H-1, Svetog križa 3, tel. (+385-20)<br />
31 31 40, 31 31 44/(+385-) 091 486 84 33, mail@<br />
dubrovnikviator.com, www.dubrovnikviator.com. Visit<br />
their website to explore a world of possibilities, including<br />
organization of group travels, events and meetings in<br />
Dubrovnik. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun<br />
by appointment. A<br />
Vivado Šetalište M.Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20)<br />
48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr,<br />
www.vivado.hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to<br />
the islands. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed October 15 - April.<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
55
56 shopping<br />
Tina Šepetavc<br />
Antiques<br />
Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 35 23. Take home a little reminder of renaissance<br />
Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q<br />
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Heritage Shop L-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-)<br />
098 20 91 50. A small store exquisitely decorated in the<br />
spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local<br />
and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you<br />
can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities<br />
and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient<br />
times right through to the present. Q June, October Open<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. July - September Open<br />
10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Art galleries<br />
AR Atelier 2 C-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32<br />
17 21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, aruskovic@inet.hr, www.<br />
antoniaruskovic.com. A rich offer of unique and authentic<br />
souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well<br />
as objects with Konavle embroidery. Q June, September,<br />
October Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 -<br />
24:00. A<br />
Artur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/<br />
(+385-) 098 28 53 98. A fantastic selection of high quality<br />
local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during<br />
whole year so if you are interested you know what to do... Q<br />
June, September, October Open 09:00 - 20:00. July, August<br />
Open 09:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Klarisa Gallery C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099<br />
243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Hidden on<br />
the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the<br />
true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with<br />
paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular<br />
Dubrovnik. <strong>In</strong> addition, there are a great number of sculptures<br />
and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-)<br />
091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romanamilutin.com,<br />
www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract<br />
pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00,<br />
17:00 - 22:00. A<br />
English books & newspapers<br />
Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 44,<br />
www.algoritam.hr. Books, magazines, newspapers,<br />
maps in many languages.QJune, September Open<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. July, August Open<br />
09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-) 099 706<br />
13 26. Lots of newspapers and magazines in different<br />
languages.QJune, September Open 07:00 - 24:00. July,<br />
August Open 00:00 - 24:00<br />
Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, cimic.<br />
art.gallery@du.t-com.hr. On Stradun (oddly enough), close<br />
to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner’s<br />
passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters<br />
along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32<br />
93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr.<br />
Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian<br />
artists for sale. Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice<br />
café next door. QOpen 09:30 - 22:30. A<br />
Workshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A<br />
Duty Free Shop<br />
Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle. One of the perks of<br />
travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik<br />
Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products<br />
you see at other similar stores, the exception here is the<br />
traditional Croatian products and gift packages which<br />
will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have<br />
to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first<br />
international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the<br />
last designated flight.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
shopping<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
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58 shopping<br />
Souvenirs<br />
Baboon I-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33<br />
17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com.<br />
Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts. Q Open<br />
09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Bačan Handmade Products D-2, Prijeko 6, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 11 21. Here you can go all out ‘folk’ with<br />
national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated<br />
with Konavle embroidery on sale. Q Open 9:30 - 15:30,<br />
17:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN<br />
Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop D-2,<br />
Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. A small<br />
sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy<br />
crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat<br />
of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of<br />
stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Tax free heaven<br />
Save money when you buy<br />
souvenirs and other stuff to<br />
take back home. Look for the<br />
“Tax Free” label on shop windows,<br />
or ask at the counter.<br />
When you buy goods totalling<br />
500kn or more, they’ll give<br />
you a form. Get it stamped<br />
when you leave the country,<br />
and you’re entitled to a tax<br />
refund – follow the instructions on the form.<br />
Karla cipele<br />
Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 20 04/(+385-)<br />
098 175 17 41, info@medusa.<br />
hr, www.medusa.hr. Wideranging<br />
souvenir shop that stocks<br />
more than just the predictable<br />
tourist-trap nonsense that nobody<br />
actually wants. Expect a solid<br />
choice of authentic Croatian gifts<br />
including olive oils, brandies, and<br />
sponges from the sponge-fishing<br />
island of Krapanj. QOpen 09:00<br />
Ruža Hodak<br />
- 22:00. A<br />
Museum shop D-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector’s Palace),<br />
tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector’s Palace is where<br />
guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more<br />
exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A<br />
Palma C-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Unique<br />
ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/(+385-<br />
) 098 82 04 16, ronchi.dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.<br />
dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but<br />
don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners<br />
established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using<br />
traditional methods. Q Open 09:30 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, www.<br />
tildadubrovnik.com. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers,<br />
jewellery, greetings cards and more. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
A<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
shopping<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
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60 shopping<br />
Waxing lyrical, tel. (+385-) 098 939 43 83, info@<br />
vostanibrod.com, www.vostanibrod.com. Looking for<br />
a souvenir for the pyromaniac maritime enthusiast in your<br />
life? How about a wax model of the Karaka (a type of historic<br />
wooden merchant ship made in Dubrovnik) which doubles<br />
as a fully functioning candle? All joking aside, these models<br />
are painstakingly made by Tonći Jonjić, who researches and<br />
creates models of historic Croatian boats. His wax Karaka<br />
won a prize for being among the best original souvenirs of the<br />
Dubrovnik region. If you’re eager to have it, go to the nearest<br />
tourist board or simplly call 098 939 43 83.<br />
Accessories<br />
Art Go’Den G-2, Iva Dulčića 34 (Valamar Lacroma<br />
Resort), tel. (+385-20) 43 50 22, www.artgoden.com.<br />
A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. <strong>Your</strong><br />
chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves<br />
designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even<br />
the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought<br />
for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at<br />
Radisson Blue Resort&Spa and Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik<br />
Hotel. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Croata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30,<br />
www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied<br />
materials come together to make you look the pro. Find<br />
the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the<br />
invention of the tie. Q May - October Open 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A<br />
Magnolika B-2, Getaldićeva 7, tel. (+385-) 099 885<br />
69 10, magnolika.at@gmail.com, www.magnolika.com.<br />
Offering shnazzy non-conventional jewellery, funky t-shirts,<br />
bags and other designer gems made authentically here in<br />
Croatia. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -<br />
14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A<br />
Delicatessen<br />
Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 20 92, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr. A treasure trove of local<br />
culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards,<br />
cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr.<br />
A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of<br />
souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q June Open<br />
08:00 - 23:00. July - September 30 Open 08:00 - 24:00.<br />
October Open 08:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.<br />
kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known<br />
and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut<br />
sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. Q June, September<br />
Open 08:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. October<br />
Open 08:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Oleoteka Uje C-2, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15<br />
32, www.uje.hr. Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that<br />
offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the<br />
island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of<br />
Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles! QOpen<br />
09:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17<br />
77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top<br />
quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. Q June,<br />
September - October 31 Open 10:00 - 22:00. July, August<br />
Open 10:00 - 23:00. A<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
shopping<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
61
62 shopping<br />
Designer Clothing<br />
Maria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30,<br />
info@maria-dubrovnik.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. If you<br />
forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney<br />
shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to<br />
stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal<br />
measure, it’s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous<br />
just looking through the window. Q June, September Open<br />
10:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 24:00. October<br />
Open 10:00 - 20:00. A<br />
Max Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda.hr. Sharp lines, muted<br />
colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can’t miss<br />
either way. Q June, September - October 31 Open 09:00 -<br />
21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. A<br />
Modni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12<br />
41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed<br />
with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items<br />
are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it’s a little pricey<br />
but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A<br />
XD Xenia Design G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos<br />
Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17,<br />
info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Designer<br />
who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality.<br />
Also at Radisson Blue Resort and Croatia Hotel in Cavtat.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Jewellery<br />
Atelier Secret C-2, Kunićeva 2. The jewelry from this<br />
place has ‘authentic’ written all over it. The wide range of<br />
unique necklaces, bracelets and earrings are all locally made<br />
and there is just about something for everyone. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00. N<br />
Clara Stones C-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www.clarastones.<br />
com. Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from<br />
carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and<br />
precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.<br />
The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department<br />
which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different<br />
phases of its lifecycle. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00. June 15 -<br />
September 15 Open 09:00 - 24:00. A<br />
Dubrovnik Treasures B-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 10 98, simonafarac@gmail.com, www.<br />
dubrovniktreasures.com. Unique homemade jewelry<br />
with the designer always using semiprecious stones, silver,<br />
philigrans and pearls. A great choice of necklaces, bracelets<br />
and earrings. Worth the visit! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Križek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27,<br />
www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths<br />
was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of<br />
modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl,<br />
and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
usiness direCtorY<br />
Study in Croatia and earn a US degree!<br />
At great locations: Dubrovnik & Zagreb<br />
Banks & Exchanges<br />
Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-2, Vukovarska 26,<br />
tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 85/(+385-) 0800 78 90 free<br />
info, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Vukovarska 15, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 32 24 44, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Also at I-2, Obala<br />
Stjepana Radića 26a, tel. 32 54 80. Open 08:00 - 14:00,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.<br />
OTP banka I-2, Vukovarska 19, tel. (+385-) 062 20<br />
12 00, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16 - Stradun, tel.<br />
062 20 13 17. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. (+385-20)<br />
72 01 00, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Raiffeisen bank I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 05 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30<br />
- 12:30. Closed Sun.<br />
Real estate<br />
Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28<br />
82 54, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.dubrovnikproperties.info.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 and by prior<br />
arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Pro Krečak J-4, Put Republike 12, tel. (+385-20)<br />
43 66 02, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00<br />
- 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Undergraduate programs<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Business Management<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation Technology<br />
Tourism, Hospitality and Service<br />
Management<br />
Graduate programs<br />
Human Resource Development<br />
Service Leadership & <strong>In</strong>novation<br />
Year-round admission!<br />
Zagrebačka banka I-2, Vukovarska 7, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 25 07, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel.<br />
32 25 52, Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. Q May 21 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. October Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Business Connections<br />
American College of Managemet and Technology<br />
J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00,<br />
alumni association<br />
www.acmt.hr<br />
american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.<br />
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County<br />
Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20<br />
99, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Consulates<br />
Belgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43<br />
81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Denmark I-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33<br />
35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com.<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel),<br />
tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, consolatoitaliano@net.hr.<br />
Q Open by arrangement.<br />
Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57.<br />
Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-20)<br />
35 61 41/(+385-) 091 396 63 82, ajerkovic@atlant.hr.<br />
QOpen Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00.<br />
UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97,<br />
honcons.dubrovnik@inet.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed<br />
Wed, Sat, Sun.<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
63
64 LiFestYLe direCtorY<br />
Call the experts<br />
Ana’s Studio K-3, U Pilama 5, tel. (+385-20) 41 65<br />
15, gigidbk@yahoo.com. Cosmetic treatments, nail art,<br />
hair cuts, body painting. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />
15:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
Beautyline K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 1, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 42 30 81, kozmetickisalon.beautyline@gmail.com.<br />
Beauty centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Zrinka H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 62<br />
32, salon2@frizerzrinka.com, www.frizerzrinka.com.<br />
Hair studio. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Culture Centres<br />
L’Alliance Francaise J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 4, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 32 63 53/(+385-) 092 285 76 84, afd@caas.<br />
unizg.hr, www.afd.hr. QOpen Tue, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.<br />
Dry cleaners & Laundries<br />
Amo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33<br />
33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00,<br />
15:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098<br />
42 86 71/(+385-) 098 915 99 22. Dry cleaners. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N<br />
Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette E-1, Put od Bosanke 2<br />
(outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@<br />
dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry.com.<br />
Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon<br />
request. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn<br />
per 10 minutes (up to 9kg). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.<br />
Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18.<br />
Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. N<br />
Hospital<br />
General Hospital H-3, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. (+385-20)<br />
431 777, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du.hr.<br />
Emergency number 112<br />
Emergency number 112. <strong>In</strong> case of emergency<br />
you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the<br />
emergency services as below:<br />
Police 192<br />
Fire department 93<br />
Ambulance 94<br />
Coast guard 9155<br />
Marinas<br />
ACI Marina Dubrovnik Na Skali 2, Komolac, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 45 50 20, m.dubrovnik@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.<br />
hr. 450 berths, 110 places on land. Two restaurants, souvenir<br />
shop, supermarket, mechanic, swimming pool, showers.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A<br />
ACI Marina Korčula Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 16 61,<br />
m.korcula@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 144 berths,<br />
16 on land. Restaurant, hairdresser, mechanic. Staff speak<br />
foreign languages. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
July, August Open 07:00 - 22:00. October Open 08:00 -<br />
20:00. A<br />
Luka Porat - Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 41 86 40, dpa.gruz@portdubrovnik.hr. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 21:00. A<br />
Making friends<br />
The Dubrovnik Foreign Circle,<br />
www.dubrovnikforeigncircle.com. A great local<br />
organisation that works on giving back to the community.<br />
Various social activities and gatherings are held and new<br />
comers to the city are particularly made welcome with<br />
the aim of building networks, establishing friendships and<br />
more. So come along!<br />
Pets<br />
Bobanović H-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.tcom.hr.<br />
Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on<br />
098 / 24 39 38. Q Open 08:30 -12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr.<br />
Veterinary clinic. For emergency call<br />
098 191 26 94. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Police station<br />
Coast guard I-2, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 44 35 55, www.dubrovacko-neretvanska.policija.hr.<br />
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Police station I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 44 37 77, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Traffic police Vladimira Nazora 32, tel. (+385-20) 44 36<br />
66/(+385-20) 44 36 39. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.<br />
Pharmacies<br />
Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by<br />
either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy.<br />
Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20)<br />
41 89 90. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Kod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20)<br />
32 14 11. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. A<br />
Kod zvonika C-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A<br />
Lapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67<br />
78. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed<br />
Sun. A<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
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66 dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
Mljet<br />
A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a<br />
sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ...<br />
the bray of a donkey. Silence.<br />
Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the<br />
more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry<br />
service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the<br />
Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.<br />
This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or<br />
discos. One might hope it never will be.<br />
Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this<br />
island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.<br />
Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide<br />
and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or<br />
lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km<br />
with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves<br />
to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With<br />
five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush<br />
vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green<br />
Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs<br />
and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the<br />
hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back<br />
into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The<br />
submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several<br />
types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational<br />
sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths<br />
are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here.<br />
The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National<br />
Park since 1960.<br />
The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of<br />
the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey)<br />
because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek<br />
settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising<br />
nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).<br />
The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century<br />
BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and<br />
settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The<br />
best preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above<br />
the Veliko Jezero, and the fort of Vodica near Babino Polje.<br />
The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century<br />
BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians<br />
in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the<br />
western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most<br />
notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman<br />
ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.<br />
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic<br />
coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th<br />
Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence<br />
in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley<br />
and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained<br />
on the western end of the island for about another 300 years,<br />
until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ,<br />
between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including<br />
mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and<br />
arrows, was discovered in 1938.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1151, Prince Deša of Zahumlje donated the entire island<br />
of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano<br />
from Apulia. The arrival saw the construction of a church<br />
and grand monastery of the benedictines (1177-1198) on<br />
the islet in Veliko Jezero.<br />
Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired the Pelješac<br />
Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This<br />
changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent<br />
of Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held the island until the<br />
dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808.<br />
Getting there and around<br />
Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry<br />
and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet<br />
is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from<br />
Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of<br />
harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port<br />
of call in the north, however, you can also access the island<br />
from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and<br />
Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily<br />
connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow<br />
water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw<br />
anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.<br />
Where to stay<br />
Mljet has just one hotel (Hotel Odisej, Pomena b.b., www.<br />
hotelodisej.hr ) but with two campgrounds and a plethora<br />
of private rooms and apartments, there is enough<br />
accommodation to triple the island’s population during the<br />
summer. For information about private accommodation, you<br />
can contact the island’s tourist offices at the Sobra ferry<br />
port and in Polače.<br />
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dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
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67
68 dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
What to See<br />
Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište<br />
2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, npmljet@np-mljet.hr,<br />
turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.<br />
hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction.<br />
The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western<br />
end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline<br />
beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small<br />
Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena,<br />
Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of<br />
interest, this park represents the first institutionalised<br />
attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.<br />
The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo<br />
Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-metre-long<br />
channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko<br />
Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to<br />
power mills during the Middle Ages, switches direction every<br />
six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer<br />
path circumnavigating the lakes, and other paths wind up<br />
and over the hills. It’s Ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but<br />
scuba diving and motor boats are not permitted.<br />
The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers,<br />
steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and<br />
most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant<br />
of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used<br />
for farming or herding. Nevertheless, a 1917 fire took out<br />
many of the deciduous forests.<br />
Tickets to the park cost 40-100kn and can be purchased<br />
at booths in Polače and Pomena (Open 08:00 - 20:00), and<br />
at the Hotel Odisej. Admission includes the ferry to St Mary<br />
Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the<br />
Benedictine monastery and a restaurant.<br />
Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary<br />
(Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island<br />
of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a<br />
time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center.<br />
Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in<br />
autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and<br />
peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th<br />
Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque<br />
church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal<br />
lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture<br />
and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over<br />
the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs<br />
of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance<br />
features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church<br />
portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure<br />
of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added<br />
during the 16th and 17th centuries. <strong>In</strong> 1809, during the rule<br />
of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian<br />
Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until<br />
1941. <strong>In</strong> 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given<br />
back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the<br />
church’s inauguration.<br />
The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a<br />
restaurant in the monastery cellars, the buildings are<br />
unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk<br />
past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and<br />
imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding<br />
in the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown.<br />
Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant<br />
Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high -<br />
built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to<br />
the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road<br />
to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists<br />
have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas) west of<br />
the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s<br />
economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey,<br />
meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will<br />
take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right<br />
and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort.<br />
A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the<br />
highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views<br />
over the lakes and the Adriatic.<br />
Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the<br />
National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village,<br />
built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living<br />
among charming thick forests and working in agriculture,<br />
fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small<br />
yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the<br />
hotel’s amenities.<br />
Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century<br />
when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino<br />
Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to<br />
work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian).<br />
Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically<br />
interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace,<br />
serenity and lush vegetation.<br />
Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located<br />
on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It<br />
offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a<br />
number of private rentals here, too.<br />
Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with<br />
around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre<br />
of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road<br />
and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino<br />
Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted<br />
olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest<br />
hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of<br />
churches: St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George,<br />
St Blaise, St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of<br />
Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches<br />
of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in<br />
the 11th Century. You can reach the church, and neighbouring<br />
St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town.<br />
When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp<br />
right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On<br />
the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey<br />
Renaissance manor of the Ragusan governor of the island.<br />
Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius,<br />
the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the<br />
sotnica, a Renaissance-era government building in whose<br />
courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments.<br />
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Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles<br />
who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway.<br />
Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the<br />
sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three<br />
beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church<br />
of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the<br />
Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s<br />
Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque<br />
bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477 by the<br />
Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed the estate<br />
in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured representations of<br />
St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik), St Martin (the<br />
patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the patron saint<br />
of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived and worked in<br />
a small monastery near the church. It’s partly ruined now;<br />
along with the tower, it has been adapted for reuse as a<br />
stable and storage.<br />
The Church of St Martin and village graveyard is situated<br />
on a bluff overlooking the village on one side and the island<br />
road and Pelješac Channel on the other. A plaque on the 14th<br />
Century porch thanks Jolanda Vecchietta, a teacher who<br />
came to the island during the Italian occupation in World War<br />
II, taught in the local school and fell in love with the island.<br />
After the war she returned to Italy but later paid for the 1998<br />
renovations to the church. St Martin’s day is celebrated on<br />
November 11 with a mass in the church.<br />
The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on another small<br />
hill above the village. Costumed celebrations of St Rocco<br />
(who was believed to have saved the village from the<br />
plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was<br />
the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston<br />
from 1635 to 1652.<br />
Odysseus’s Cave<br />
Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus,<br />
shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only<br />
stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time<br />
he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking<br />
along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which<br />
takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing<br />
waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to<br />
leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come<br />
back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a<br />
30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.<br />
dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš<br />
family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish<br />
church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church<br />
and features Gothic architectural elements.<br />
<strong>In</strong> nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary<br />
of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and<br />
demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches.<br />
A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the<br />
front, and a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,”<br />
that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a<br />
distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses<br />
have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own<br />
17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita<br />
is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that<br />
are used to capture rainwater.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office<br />
Goveđari bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-<br />
20) 74 41 86, www.mljet.hr. QJune,<br />
September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30<br />
-19:30, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August<br />
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.<br />
Mljet Tourist Board, Sobra office Sobra bb, Sobra,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr,<br />
www.mljet.hr. Around the side of the cafe at the ferry<br />
pier. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.<br />
Korčula<br />
Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is<br />
a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the<br />
clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.<br />
Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns<br />
which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich,<br />
famous and notable types who buy up old town properties<br />
for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the<br />
tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory<br />
is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic<br />
historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for<br />
shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the<br />
atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details<br />
and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic<br />
version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden<br />
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70 dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral<br />
of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted<br />
menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.<br />
Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual<br />
morning stroll.<br />
All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place<br />
to recharge your batteries.<br />
One of the other most prominent features of the island is<br />
its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with<br />
swords, which you can witness from time to time during<br />
the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade<br />
of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the<br />
performance.<br />
With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism<br />
and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic<br />
towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.<br />
But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other<br />
places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island,<br />
the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from<br />
any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village<br />
of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must<br />
try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and<br />
said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall<br />
of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel<br />
miles and centuries away from everything else.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Korčula City Museum Trg Sv. Marka,<br />
tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@<br />
du.t-com.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and<br />
by prior arrangement. June - September<br />
15 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior<br />
arrangement. Admission 20kn.<br />
Korčula Tourist Board Obala F.Tuđmana 4, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 71 58 67. Q June, September, October<br />
Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.<br />
July, August Open 08:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 22:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 13:00.<br />
Lastovo<br />
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes<br />
to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.<br />
Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well<br />
preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,<br />
so access to the island was restricted. With not a great<br />
deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has<br />
been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an<br />
untouched ecological paradise.<br />
Many people sense in<br />
Lastovo a spirit unlike<br />
anything else, a sense<br />
of the breath of ages.<br />
Lastovo town sits uphill<br />
in a basin facing away<br />
from the sea to escape<br />
the attentions of pirates.<br />
The mellow stone of<br />
the houses basking in<br />
the warm sunlight is<br />
captivating. Walking<br />
in the town’s streets,<br />
those with a sense for<br />
the antique and the<br />
eccentric will wonder<br />
at a culture so very<br />
detached from modern<br />
urban life.<br />
Lastovo is a town of chimneys. <strong>In</strong> times past, a sign of the<br />
wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s<br />
chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital<br />
aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional<br />
pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from<br />
Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes<br />
centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide<br />
on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at<br />
its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during<br />
summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume,<br />
where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered<br />
braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.<br />
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore<br />
Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.<br />
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and<br />
there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few<br />
families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to<br />
explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of<br />
time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.<br />
Tourist information<br />
i<br />
Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59<br />
90 07, www.lastovo.hr. Q June 15 -<br />
September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />
08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00<br />
- 20:00. October Open 08:00 - 16:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
The Elafiti Islands - Koločep, Lopud<br />
and Šipan<br />
These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic<br />
places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your<br />
doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of<br />
island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey<br />
by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every<br />
day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million<br />
times more refreshing!<br />
Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them<br />
quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud<br />
just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance<br />
of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built<br />
their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone<br />
villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud<br />
is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the<br />
golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less<br />
than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the<br />
islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance<br />
across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted<br />
old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the<br />
sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very<br />
shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball<br />
game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun<br />
loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side,<br />
and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved<br />
one from Šunj, you’ll never part.<br />
Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports,<br />
Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny<br />
hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip<br />
through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully<br />
grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and<br />
carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and<br />
the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the<br />
Dubrovnik bishops.<br />
Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and<br />
a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent<br />
restaurants.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find<br />
your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands<br />
aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels<br />
used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of<br />
tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you<br />
need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild<br />
nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.<br />
Konavle<br />
The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border<br />
with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport<br />
is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday<br />
mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances<br />
of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume.<br />
Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal<br />
parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate<br />
agents to tears. <strong>In</strong> the central valley, you’ll find traditional<br />
rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown<br />
food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served<br />
by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our<br />
“Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try<br />
dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards<br />
in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina,<br />
for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its<br />
highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high.<br />
The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones<br />
(stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings<br />
and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are<br />
well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty<br />
meal as part of the deal.<br />
The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that<br />
it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few<br />
settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals<br />
looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is<br />
a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus,<br />
and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical<br />
dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet<br />
fishing village in a pretty cove. The Prevlaka peninsula is<br />
the southernmost point of Croatia and there’s now a Nature<br />
Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor<br />
in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Prevlaka<br />
was until recently a military zone, so don’t be surprised to<br />
come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for<br />
paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested<br />
to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII.<br />
There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the<br />
Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who<br />
died of hunger. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo,<br />
an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and<br />
you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.<br />
Cavtat<br />
The approach to this little gem<br />
of a Mediterranean town is one<br />
of the most breathtaking things<br />
about it, as the campaniles of its<br />
churches poke their way into view<br />
above a canopy of lush trees.<br />
But that’s not all - this was the<br />
ancient settlement of Epidaurum<br />
whose inhabitants populated<br />
Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade<br />
fringes the rambling old streets,<br />
edged by cafés, a couple of good<br />
places to drink, a selection of<br />
good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small<br />
hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach,<br />
a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by<br />
sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out<br />
of town are several large hotels which are good choices for<br />
families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally allinclusive<br />
packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend<br />
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72 dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
imprisoning yourself in a modern<br />
hotel complex when you can<br />
indulge in the delights of a meal<br />
in a traditional konoba in the<br />
town, and the rural Konavle<br />
region, famous for its traditional<br />
style gastronomy and folklore is<br />
on your doorstep.<br />
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is<br />
the Bukovac house<br />
Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00<br />
- 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission 20kn),<br />
where one of the best-loved<br />
Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As<br />
a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely<br />
old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring<br />
semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw<br />
fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some<br />
success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features<br />
paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from<br />
Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal<br />
and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is<br />
given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature<br />
contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique<br />
mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at<br />
the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Konavle district Tourist Board Zidine<br />
6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.<br />
tzcavtat-konavle.hr. QJune, September<br />
Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00<br />
- 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun<br />
08:00 - 14:00.<br />
Neretva<br />
If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to<br />
see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk.<br />
Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored,<br />
inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with<br />
good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate<br />
gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern<br />
fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.<br />
It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green<br />
and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar,<br />
upriver in Herzegovina. <strong>In</strong> Croatia, it spreads out open arms<br />
to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations<br />
of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile<br />
region sometimes called Croatia’s California.<br />
As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside<br />
stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits.<br />
It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the<br />
people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting<br />
pretty much everything around here.<br />
The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller<br />
kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although<br />
these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years<br />
an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts<br />
competing teams from around the world looks set to revive<br />
the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish<br />
construction which is very attractive but definitely renders<br />
their navigation a challenge!<br />
More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional<br />
dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic<br />
inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a<br />
tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular<br />
restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where<br />
accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also<br />
offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks<br />
and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.<br />
Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from<br />
the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting<br />
freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully<br />
clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped<br />
that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near<br />
future.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre of<br />
Metković Tourist Board Stjepana<br />
Radića 1, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68<br />
10 20/(+385-) 098 171 16 05, www.<br />
metkovic.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Pelješac Peninsula<br />
The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the<br />
mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The<br />
first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali<br />
Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland<br />
is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants<br />
offer some of the best cuisine in the country.<br />
Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone<br />
walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which<br />
with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look<br />
scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built<br />
by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and<br />
the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little<br />
Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the<br />
same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for<br />
industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday<br />
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and<br />
victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.<br />
The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular<br />
conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali<br />
grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of<br />
Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is<br />
an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the<br />
first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).<br />
It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac<br />
experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is<br />
another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”,<br />
while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.<br />
On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched<br />
by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep<br />
slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for<br />
pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing<br />
wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at<br />
Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting<br />
its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic<br />
stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects<br />
Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet -<br />
ideal for island hopping.<br />
The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take<br />
time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will<br />
hardly be long enough.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Orebić Tourist Board Zrinsko<br />
Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20)<br />
71 37 18, info@visitorebic-croatia.<br />
hr, www.tz-orebic.com.QOpen 08:00<br />
- 22:00.<br />
Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel.<br />
(+385-20) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com.hr, www.<br />
ston.hr. QJune Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Sun. July - October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Trsteno<br />
If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in<br />
Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green,<br />
get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at<br />
Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be<br />
delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners<br />
and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer<br />
villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić<br />
in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling<br />
and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and<br />
surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar.<br />
More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola<br />
Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.<br />
Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by<br />
local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing<br />
gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people<br />
have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A<br />
sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t<br />
miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.<br />
East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by<br />
the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the<br />
sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view<br />
encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical<br />
splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. <strong>In</strong> this part of<br />
the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum<br />
- a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.<br />
The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid<br />
out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths,<br />
a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer<br />
garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern<br />
sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus<br />
a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered<br />
quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which<br />
broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and<br />
it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall<br />
trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy<br />
the harmony of man and nature.<br />
The village of Trsteno<br />
is a modest little<br />
settlement with a<br />
fine church, St Vitus,<br />
and two huge 500<br />
year old Asiatic<br />
plane trees. By the<br />
waterside just east<br />
of the gardens is a<br />
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a<br />
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.<br />
Župa Dubrovačka<br />
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay<br />
dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the<br />
Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason<br />
why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means<br />
“Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour<br />
so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is<br />
named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven<br />
by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge<br />
right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that<br />
could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the<br />
hardiness of the swimmer in question.<br />
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons<br />
being that this part of the coast was occupied by the<br />
Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is<br />
all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal<br />
situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry<br />
lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront<br />
empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently<br />
going on and things will get better.<br />
dubrovnik neretvA CountY<br />
The Walls of Ston<br />
<strong>In</strong> an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few<br />
man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled<br />
fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only<br />
a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications<br />
was accessible to the public, but after a long period of<br />
renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially<br />
opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now<br />
scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds<br />
the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the<br />
surrounding countryside (entry 10-30kn).<br />
The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of<br />
Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac<br />
peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against<br />
potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well<br />
worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to<br />
become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped<br />
to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.<br />
Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac<br />
peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers<br />
and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest<br />
stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of<br />
Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second<br />
longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China,<br />
although this eye-popping claim was probably intended<br />
as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist<br />
officials. <strong>In</strong> the event, we feel obliged to report that a few<br />
idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh<br />
in <strong>In</strong>dia boasts 36km of surviving wall - although we<br />
didn’t bother investigating any further. <strong>In</strong>fo: www.<br />
citywallsdubrovnik.hr.QJune - July 31. Open 08:00<br />
- 19:30. August - September 15. Open 08:00 - 19:00.<br />
September 16. - October 31. Open 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
We highly recommend these resorts for the following<br />
reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)<br />
There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private<br />
apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With<br />
Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great<br />
place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter<br />
environment and clean beaches.<br />
Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find<br />
necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks,<br />
the post office and a large supermarket.<br />
Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever<br />
seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a<br />
watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right<br />
on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with<br />
little villas nestled in leafy shade.<br />
Tourist information<br />
Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board<br />
Šetalište dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno,<br />
Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 62 54, tzzupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr,<br />
www.<br />
dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Q June, September<br />
Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July,<br />
August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />
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73
A. Barca H-2,3<br />
A. Bošković J-2,3<br />
A. Hallera I-2<br />
A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2<br />
A. Kazali H-2<br />
A. Mihanovića J-2<br />
A. Šenoe H-2<br />
A.G. Matoša I-2<br />
A.T. Mimare K-2<br />
Androvićeva C-4<br />
Ante Starčevića I-2<br />
Antuninska C-2<br />
Aquarium E-3<br />
Arhiv D-2<br />
Asimon E-1<br />
B. Bušića L-2<br />
Bernarda Shawa K-2<br />
Babin Kuk G-2<br />
Bandureva D-4<br />
Banjska I-3<br />
Batahovina G-1<br />
Batala H-2/I-2<br />
Biokovska G-2<br />
Bokar A-3<br />
Bokeljska G-1<br />
Boninovo J-3<br />
Bosanka L-2<br />
Boškovićeva C-2<br />
Božatska I-2<br />
Braće Andrijića D-4<br />
Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3<br />
Brdasta J-2<br />
Brgatska L-2<br />
Brsalje A-2<br />
Brsečinska I-2<br />
Bunićeva poljana C-3<br />
Buža D-1<br />
Cavtatska K-2<br />
Celestina Medovića B-2<br />
Crijevićeva C-4<br />
Cvijete Zuzorić C-3<br />
Čubranovićeva B-2<br />
Ćilipska I-2<br />
Ćira Carića G-2<br />
D. Pulića A-1<br />
Dalmatinska H-2<br />
Dante Alighieria J-3<br />
Dinka Ranjine C-3<br />
Dolska H-1<br />
Dr. A. Šercera H-2<br />
Dr. V. Mačeka I-2<br />
Dračasta K-2<br />
Dropčeva C-2<br />
Državna cesta D-8<br />
Dubravkina G-2<br />
Dunavska G-2,3<br />
Džamija C-3<br />
Đorđićeva B-2<br />
Đura Baljevića D-4<br />
Đura Basaričeka I-1<br />
E. Kumičića H-2<br />
F. Kolumbića H-2<br />
F. Prešerna I-2<br />
F. Supila L-2<br />
Ferićeva B-3<br />
Flore Jakšić G-2<br />
street register<br />
G. Rajčevića I-2,3<br />
Garište B-2<br />
Getaldićeva B-2<br />
Gorica Sv. Vlaha H-3/I-3<br />
Gornji kono I,J,K-2<br />
Gradac J-3<br />
Gradićeva D-4<br />
Grbava C-4<br />
Grebenska H-2<br />
Grudska K-2<br />
Gruška obala H-1<br />
Gundulićeva poljana C/D-3<br />
Hanibala Lucića C-1<br />
Hladnica H-3<br />
Hliđina B-3<br />
Hodiljska I-2<br />
Hvarska E-1<br />
I. Matijaševića J-2<br />
I. Račića L-2<br />
I. Vojnovića H-2/I-3<br />
Ilije Sarake D-4<br />
Imotska I-1<br />
Ispod Minčete B-1<br />
Ispod mira D-4<br />
Ispod Petke G-2<br />
Istarska J-3<br />
Ive Dulčića G-2<br />
Ivana Zajca G,H-1<br />
Ivanska G-3<br />
Iza Grada B-1, K-2<br />
Između ribnjaka H-2<br />
Između tri crkve J-2<br />
Između vrta K-3<br />
Između polača C-2<br />
Izvijačica A-1<br />
J. Berse H-2<br />
J. Pupačića H-2<br />
Jakljanska H-1<br />
Janjinska H-2<br />
Josipa Kosora I-3<br />
Kantafig G-1<br />
Kardinala Stepinca F-2<br />
Kaznačićeva C-3<br />
Kliševska G-2<br />
Kneza Domagoja H-2<br />
Kneza Branimira I-2<br />
Kneza Damjana Jude E-3<br />
Kneza Hrvaša C-4<br />
Knežev dvor D-3<br />
Koločepska L-2<br />
Komajska H-2<br />
Komolačka G-1<br />
Konavoska L-2<br />
Korčulanska I-3<br />
Koritska H-1<br />
Kotorska I-3<br />
Kovačka D-2<br />
Kralja Tomislava H-2<br />
Kunićeva C-2<br />
Kunska I-1<br />
L. Matačića H-1<br />
L. Rogovskog G,H-2<br />
Lapad G-3<br />
Lapadska obala H-2<br />
Lazareti L-2<br />
Lazarina L-2<br />
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76 street register<br />
Liechtensteinov put H,I-3<br />
Lokrum L-3<br />
Lokrumska K-2<br />
Lopudska H-1<br />
Lovrijenac K-3<br />
Lovrina L-2<br />
Lučarica D-3<br />
Luka Dubrovnik H-1<br />
Luke Sorkočevića G-2<br />
Ljubuška H-1<br />
M. Blažića K-3<br />
M. Budaka K-2<br />
M. Dizdara I-1<br />
M. Gjaje J-2<br />
M. Gupca K-2<br />
M. Hamzića I-2<br />
M. Jarnovića G-2<br />
M. Mrnarevića I-2<br />
M. Vodopića G,H-2<br />
Mala Petka G-3<br />
Mandaljenska G-3<br />
Marina Držića D-3<br />
Marka Marojice H-2<br />
Marojice Kaboge C-3<br />
Masarykov put F, G-3<br />
Metohijska I-1<br />
Miha Pracata C-2<br />
Minčeta B/C-1<br />
Mljetska H,I-1<br />
Mokoška I-1<br />
Moluntska G-1<br />
Montovjerna I-2<br />
Mosorska G-2<br />
Most Dubrovnik G-1<br />
Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />
N. Ljubičića I-2<br />
N. Nodila J-2<br />
Na Andriji B-3<br />
Na Mihajlu H-2<br />
Na Ponti D-2<br />
Nalješkovićeva C-2<br />
Napice L-2<br />
Neumska H-1<br />
Nikole Božidarevića B,C-3<br />
Nikole Gučetića C-3<br />
Nikole Tesle H,I-2<br />
Nuncijata H-1<br />
Obala S. Radića I-2<br />
Obodska K-2<br />
Obuljenska J-2<br />
Od Batale H-2<br />
Od borova H-2<br />
Od čempresa J-2<br />
Od Danača J-3<br />
Od Domina B-3<br />
Od gaja I-1,2/J-2<br />
Od Gale I,J-2<br />
Od Greba Žudioskih K-2<br />
Od Gradca J-3<br />
Od Hladnice H-3<br />
Od Kaštela B-4<br />
Od Kolorine K-3<br />
Od Margarite C-4<br />
Od maslinate L-2<br />
Od Montovjerne I-2<br />
Od Nuncijate H-1<br />
Od polača C-2<br />
Od puča C,B-3<br />
Od pustijerne D-4<br />
Od Rupa B-3<br />
Od Sigurate B-2<br />
Od Srđa K-2<br />
Od Sv. Mihajla H-2<br />
Od škara I-1<br />
Od šorte B-3<br />
Od Tabakarije K-3<br />
Oraška G-2<br />
P. Budmani K-2<br />
P. Čingrije I-3<br />
P. Krešimira IV L-2<br />
P. Preradovića H-2<br />
Padre Perice I-1<br />
Palmotićeva C-2<br />
Paska Baburice H-2<br />
Pećarica C-3<br />
Peline C-1<br />
Pelješka K-2<br />
Pera Bakića J-2<br />
Petilovrijenci C-2<br />
Petra Svačića G-2<br />
Pile J,K-3<br />
Pionirska H-1<br />
Placa C,D-2<br />
Placa – Stradun C-2<br />
Platska J-3<br />
Ploče L-2<br />
Plovani skalini C-1<br />
Pobijana D-4<br />
Pobreška H-1<br />
Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4<br />
Poljana Marina Držića D-3<br />
Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2<br />
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4<br />
Pomoraca H-1<br />
Dubrovnik <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Pomorski muzej E-4<br />
Porat E-3<br />
Porporela E-3,4<br />
Posat E-2<br />
Postranjska I-2<br />
Pred Dvorom D-3<br />
Prelazna B-3<br />
Pridvorska J-2<br />
Prijeko B-2,3/C-2<br />
Primorska G-2<br />
Privežna J-2<br />
Puljizeva B-3<br />
Put od Bosanke L-2<br />
Restićeva D-4<br />
Revelin E-1<br />
Riječka G-1<br />
Ribarnica D-2<br />
Roka Mišetića H-3<br />
S.S. Kranjčevića I-2<br />
Savska G-3<br />
Sinjska I-2<br />
Slanska G-2<br />
Solinska I-2<br />
Solitudo G-1<br />
Sponza D-2<br />
Srebrenska J-2<br />
Srednji kono K-2<br />
Stayeva E-4<br />
Stonska G-2<br />
Strossmayerova C-3<br />
Stulina D-4<br />
Stradun B-2<br />
Sunčana L-2<br />
Sustjepanska I-2<br />
Sv. Barbara C-1<br />
Sv. Đurđa A-2/K-3<br />
Sv. Ivan E-3<br />
Sv. Jakov D-1<br />
Sv. Križa H-1<br />
Sv. Lucija C-1<br />
Sv. Luka E-2<br />
Sv. Petar B-4<br />
Sv. Spasitelj E-4<br />
Sv. Stjepan D-4<br />
Sv. Šimuna B-4<br />
Sv. Vid C-1<br />
Sv. Vlaha D-3<br />
Sv. Marije B-3<br />
Sv.Dominika D-2<br />
Sv. Josipa B-3<br />
Sv.Nikole H-1<br />
street register<br />
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G,H-2<br />
Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2<br />
Šibenska G-2<br />
Šipanska H-1<br />
Šipčine I-2<br />
Široka C-2<br />
Tivatska J-2<br />
Tmušasta C-3<br />
Topolska I-2<br />
Trg oružja E-2<br />
Trnovička I-2<br />
Trpanjska G-1<br />
Trstenska G-2<br />
U pilama K-3<br />
Udarnička I-2<br />
Uvala Gruž H-1<br />
Uvala Sumartin F-3<br />
Uz Giman H-2<br />
Uz Glavicu H-2<br />
Uz Jezuite C-3,4<br />
Uz mline K-2<br />
Uz posat B-1<br />
Uz tabor K-2<br />
Vladimira Nazora J-2<br />
Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2<br />
Velebitska G-2<br />
Velika Petka G-3<br />
Vetranićeva C-2<br />
Vicina K-2<br />
Viška I-2<br />
Vlaha Paljetka H-1<br />
Vukovarska I-2<br />
Za kapelicom K-2<br />
Za Kamenom E-4<br />
Za Rokom B-3<br />
Za rupama B-3<br />
Zadarska G-2<br />
Zagrebačka J,K-2<br />
Zamanjina C-2<br />
Zatonska G-2<br />
Zlatarićeva B-2<br />
Zlatarska D-2<br />
Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2,3<br />
Zvijezdićeva B-3,4<br />
Željezničarska H-1<br />
Žudioska D-2<br />
Žuljanska I-2<br />
Župska L-2<br />
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012<br />
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