SARAJEVO - In Your Pocket

32 What to see
Morica Han B-4, Saraci 77. Morica Han dates from
1551 and is the best preserved inn in Sarajevo. Its beautiful
cobbled courtyard is surrounded by old stables and store
houses and lodging rooms upstairs. Now home to a
restaurant and a youth organisation. There is also a carpet
shop with stacks of rugs where stables used to be. You‘re
free to stroll around, have a coffee or something to eat, or
buy a beautiful carpet.
National Library B-4, Mustaj-pasin mejdan, tel.
(+387) 33 275 301, fax (+387) 33 218 431, nubbih@
nub.ba, www.nub.ba. The National Library, once the town
hall and now called Vijecnica, was constructed by Alexander
Wittek in 1896. On 25 August 1992 a shell fired from the
lines of the Serbian forces besieging Sarajevo wiped out a
large part of the Bosnian literary heritage that was kept in
the building - over two million books and documents went
up in flames. As the plaque outside cautions, ‘Do not forget,
remember and warn!’ Restoration work is still ongoing and
Vijecnica is almost entirely boarded-up, although a stroll
around the outside of this battered but still beautiful building
is well worth the walk and art exhibitions are held from time
to time in the shattered interior.
Orthodox Cathedral B-4, Zelenih Beretki bb. Inside
the large, wonderfully cool and calming interior of the
Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, which dates from
1868, are large iconostases holding icons made in Russia,
installed here by Russian masons sent by Tsar Alexander
II. As a proof of religious tolerance, Sultan Abdul Aziz, and
the Prince of Serbia donated 500 gold ducats towards the
construction of the building. Serb forces shot up their own
church during the war and the Greek government is now
involved in helping restore the damage. Once you feel that
you’ve soaked up enough of the spiritual you can wander
outside this imposing multi-domed, pale mustard-colored
building and watch the men playing chess on the giant board
just outside on the square.
Orthodox Cathedral
Get ready to haggle
Orthodox Church B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije
59. Sitting between the mosques is the ancient Serbian
Orthodox church of St. Michael the Archangel, which dates
from medieval times: the foundations and the unusual
arcade structures are even early Christian, from the 5th and
6th century. A tad unprepossessing outside, the interior is
beautiful with gilded icons and a balcony lit by candles and
low light, and the scent of incense in the air. Inside glass
cases are a few anatomical relics of saints such as bones.
The current structure that dates from 1740 was ironically
badly damaged by Serb shells during the siege.
Sebilj B-4, . If you are already wondering how soon you can
make a return visit to Sarajevo take a drink from the public
fountain in Sebilj square and, according to local legend,
you won’t stay away for long. Built in 1891 from a design
by Czech architect Alexander Wittek, the stone and timber
Moorish-style fountain is the centerpiece of the main square
in the old town. You can stroll between the restaurants and
souvenir shops and watch the pigeons that give the square
its better-known name descend on anyone kindly or foolhardy
enough to pay a mark for a cup of corn - literally birdfeed for
bird food. And if you want a cup of real Bosnian coffee, here
is the place to get both it and a ringside seat for watching
Sarajevo stroll by.
Svrzo’s House C-4, Glodina 8, tel. (+387) 33 53 52
64. Svrzo’s House reflects the lifestyle of a wealthy Muslim
family lifestyle during the time of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors
can inspect the separate living quarters of the men, women
and servants and note the spacious comfort of the rooms
used for receiving and entertaining guests. The house is in
an extremely well-preserved condition, especially considering
that it is constructed completely from wood, a building
material not commonly used in the region in relatively modern
times. A quiet courtyard would have provided the occupants
with a pleasant and private outdoor sitting area, as it now
does for the visitor, but it is the interior that provides the
most interest. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
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