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SARAJEVO - In Your Pocket

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Ghazi Husrev-beg<br />

Ghazi Husrev-beg B-4, Veliki Saraći, tel. (+387)<br />

33 53 43 75, vakuf-gazi@lsinter.net, www.vakufgazi.ba.<br />

The Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque was built by the<br />

famous Ottoman architect Mirnar Sinan and is considered<br />

to be one of the most important Islamic buildings in<br />

Bosnia. Gazi Husrev-beg had it constructed by the<br />

Persian architect in an early Istanbul style in 1531. The<br />

45m-high minaret towers over the 26m-high dome and<br />

the surrounding area. The grounds include an abdest<br />

hana, or washing room, a wooden sadrvan (fountain), a<br />

mekteb, or primary school, and a muvekithana, or prayer<br />

caller’s home. To the left are two elaborate 16th century<br />

buildings. The large red house in the enclosed garden<br />

behind the Careva mosque was the official residence of<br />

the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia, and is also the place where<br />

the heavily wounded Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his<br />

wife were brought, and died, after they had been shot by<br />

Gavrilo Princip in 1914.<br />

Jewish Cemetary A-4. Located on the front-line during<br />

the war this historic cemetery was severely damaged<br />

during that time and now faces an ever-present threat<br />

from landslides due to its steep hillside location. Ongoing<br />

rescue and restoration work has seen some of the 3800+<br />

tombstones repaired but much remains to be done and<br />

about 95% of the stones are still damaged. On the site,<br />

located in the Kovačići-Debelo Brdo area and not far above<br />

the transit road, visitors can wander through one of the<br />

largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. Containing graves<br />

from the 16th century onwards, the cemetery is an integral<br />

part of Jewish history in the region and an atmospheric<br />

and interesting place for the casual visitor though those<br />

wandering through should be aware that the site is in<br />

poor condition and be careful of both the gravestones and<br />

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com<br />

What to see<br />

monuments and their own safety. Also on the site are a<br />

chapel, a fountain and several monuments dedicated to<br />

the victims of fascism. Though it can be walked to and<br />

one can get relatively close by public transport, a taxi<br />

might be the easiest way for visitors who don’t fancy the<br />

steep uphill climb.<br />

Jewish Museum B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije bb,<br />

tel. (+387) 33 21 55 32/(+387) 33 53 56 88, fax<br />

(+387) 33 47 57 49, kontakt@muzejsarajeva.ba,<br />

www.muzejsarajeva.ba. The bare stone walls and timber<br />

floors of this museum, located in a Sarajevo synagogue<br />

built in 1581, provide an aesthetically pleasing space for a<br />

small but well designed and laid out museum dedicated to<br />

the city’s long Jewish history. Along with religious artifacts<br />

the museum displays personal and professional objects<br />

associated with notable local writers, artists, composers<br />

and humanitarian workers. On the upper floor the displays<br />

turn their attention to one of the darkest periods in<br />

human history. The 12000 Jewish Bosnian victims of the<br />

Holocaust are commemorated in a large book bearing<br />

their names while photographs, documents and items<br />

such as concentration camp clothing provide the ‘faces’<br />

behind these names and a testament to their suffering and<br />

the Jewish community’s ultimate survival. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.<br />

Latin Bridge B-4, Obala Kulina Bana. The name<br />

Latinska Ćuprija may not mean much to the casual visitor<br />

to Sarajevo but mention ‘Franz Ferdinand’ and ‘World War<br />

I’ to anyone who did modern history in high school and the<br />

penny will drop. Dating from 1798 the structure is a fine<br />

example of Ottoman bridge design in itself, but that’s not<br />

why it is world-famous. Latinska Ćuprija is best-known as<br />

the place where the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke<br />

Franz Ferdinand, and his pregnant wife were assassinated<br />

on 28 June 1914 by a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Gavrilo<br />

Princip. Beyond a plaque at the site and a small museum<br />

nearby little fuss is made of its notoriety but standing here<br />

you are at the place where Princip fired his pistol and where<br />

the rest, as they say, is history.<br />

The pseudo-Moorish Vijećnica<br />

Autumn 2009<br />

31

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