SARAJEVO - In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps 

SARAJEVO 

Enjoy your 

COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

of Sarajevo In Your Pocket 

N°1 

www.inyourpocket.com 

Autumn 2009 

Olympic City 

The host of the ‘84 Winter 

Games has reopened for 

business 

MESS Festival 

Sarajevo’s 49th International 

Theatre Festival 

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- 

written series of guidebooks.” 

The New York Times

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S 

Contents 

Arriving in Sarajevo 5 

The Basics 6 

Food, history, language and more 

Culture & Events 11 

Sarajevo’s upcoming festivals 

Sports 15 

Where to stay 16 

Luxurious suites to backpacker haunts 

Dining & Nightlife 21 

Where to eat 

Vegetarians beware 

Cafés 24 

The city’s social centres 

Nightlife 25 

Be prepared to see sunrise 

Twisting Avaz Tower 

sarajevo.inyourpocket.com 

‘Pigeon Square’ in Baščaršija 

Contents 

Sightseeing 

What to see 28 

Mosques, churches and synagogues, oh my! 

Around Sarajevo 29 

Visoko’s mysterious pyramids 

Getting around 33 

Local, domestic and international transport 

Mail, phones & internet 39 

Keep in touch 

Shopping 40 

The best of what and where to buy 

Directory 42 

Maps & Index 

Street index 44 

City centre map 45 

City map 46 

Country map 48 

Autumn 2009 

3

4 foreWord 

The heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina is the capital Sarajevo, 

once a heart-broken, torn and demolished city it has risen 

above its recent history to once more welcome visitors with 

its centuries-old tradition of hospitality. This vibrant city can 

penetrate as deep into the traveller’s soul as it does for 

residents. 

With a population of about 400,000 Sarajevo makes full use of 

its abundance of bustling cafés, local eateries and handicraft 

shops. One of its unique features, something that has led to 

it being termed ‘the Jerusalem of Europe’, is its religiously 

diverse citizenry. Indeed, few places on earth feature an 

Orthodox and a Catholic church, a mosque and a synagogue 

within walking distance of each other. A city with characteristics 

of the East (enriched by the Byzantine and Ottoman empires) 

and the West (the Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian 

empires), Sarajevo holds a central charm that visitors feel, 

encompassing the best of both worlds. 

The towering tree- and house-studded hilltops that connect to 

the Dinaric Alps surround the city in its valley setting, while the 

Miljacka River running through the centre provides a secluded, 

private and magical atmosphere. Just a few miles out of 

Sarajevo, the region’s largest and most popular mountains 

are crowded during the winter season with skiers and hikers 

coming from all over the country and abroad. 

The city itself encompasses four quarters: the old town 

(Baščaršija), the new town, the centre and New Sarajevo. 

Each district provides every traveller endless opportunities 

for relaxation, vigorous sightseeing and, above all, the unique 

experiences gained as you share this city with Sarajevo’s 

locals. 

Cover story 

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S 

Sarajevo In Your Pocket 

ESTV d.o.o. 

Bosnia and Herzegovina 

sarajevo@inyourpocket.com 

bihac@inyourpocket.com 

banjaluka@inyourpocket.com 

mostar@inyourpocket.com 


ISSN 1840-4901 

© ESTV d.o.o. 

Published 3 times per year 

20.000 copies 

Sarajevo has always been known for 

its fresh clean drinking water, and in 

previous centuries numerous fountains 

and Sebiljs - larger and more ornate 

kiosk-shaped fountains - could be found 

all over the city. Today, roughly one-tenth 

of the fountains remain, while the only 

Sebilj still standing is the one pictured 

here, which is located in Baščaršija. 

Editorial 

Editor Yuri Barron 

Writers Yuri Barron, Ian Rohr, 

Christian Jennings 

Researcher Mersiha Drinjakovic, 

Emina Becic, Amra Usanovic 

Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaite 

Consulting Craig Turp 

Photos Dejan Vekic and John Roberts 

Maps Emir Haracic 

Management 

Directors Igor Blaha dipl.ecc 

& Niko Slavnic M.sc 

Executive Director: Zinaida Ilaria 

Tel.: + 387 61 144 310 

Marketing, PR and operations 

management: 

ZI Public Relations Consultancy 

Tel.: + 387 33 228 616 

Europe In Your Pocket 

Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special 

In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with 

the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy 

Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement 

in our next Russian guides and online at russia. 

inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now get 

your hands on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when 

visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team 

- who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and 

Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy, 

and to Venice. 

We welcome enquiries from anyone who would 

like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either 

by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send 

us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com. 

Copyright notice 

Text and photos copyright PIYP 

s.r.o. 2000-2006. Maps copyright 

cartographer. All rights reserved. No part 

of this publication may be reproduced 

in any form, except brief extracts for 

the purpose of review, without written 

permission from the publisher and 

copyright owner. The brand name In Your 

Pocket is used under license from UAB 

In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, 

Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). 

Editor’s note 

The editorial content of In Your Pocket 

guides is independent from paid-for 

advertising. Sponsored listings are 

clearly marked as such. We welcome all 

readers‘ comments and suggestions. 

We have made every effort to ensure 

the accuracy of the information at the 

time of going to press and assume no 

responsibility for changes and errors. 

Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com

By bus 

Both of Sarajevo’s bus stations are busy places, especially 

the main one near the train station which serves the 

Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international 

destinations. If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 

1) or bus into the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6 KM. 

There is also an ATM here and a few cafés and bars nearby 

if the journey has been long, gruelling or both.If you are 

coming from or heading to a destination in the Republika 

Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will arrive at or 

depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) bus station in 

east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes of the city and 

you can either get a taxi into town (about 25 KM) or a bus 

from the local terminal which is about a 200 metre walk from 

the station. Cash can be obtained from the machine at the 

nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage at this bus station is 

predominately in Cyrillic script. If you are getting a taxi to the 

bus station make sure your driver knows which one you want 

- you can do this by explaining your destination to him. 

By car 

Sarajevo’s roads are much improved from a few years ago 

but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing 

volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly 

straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but once 

in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend with 

narrow streets, lots of one-way and ‘No Entry’ roads and the 

local drivers, who tend to be impatient behind the wheel and 

don’t mind using their horn to give a blast to anyone too slow 

to respond to a changed traffic signal. 

Those used to congested inner-cities won’t find it too much 

of a problem but the more hesitant may be best to leave the 

car parked at or near their hotel and use public transport, 

taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of which are 

less stressful and will give you the opportunity to see and 

experience a lot more than if you are gripping the wheel 

and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the problem of 

finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded centre. Drivers 

are required by law to have their headlights on at all times. 

This is mainly for safety reasons and when you enter one of 

Bosnia’s long tunnels you’ll be glad it is so. Another safety 

factor to bear in mind is that roads can be hazardous during 

the winters, with ice, fog and snow providing a challenge 

to all but the most experienced of mountainous terrain in 

winter drivers. 

By plane 

Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and 

rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration 

and customs queues that plague many of Europe’s other 

capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports 

including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar 

and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular 

scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are 

to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a 

cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the 

12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (€10-12.50). As with all 

international airports, it’s not unheard of for taxi drivers to 

overcharge for a ride into town, especially if you’re a foreigner 

- make sure the metre is switched on before you depart. 



arriving in saraJevo 

Jahornina in autumn 

By train 

Bosnia’s rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the 

war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. Most 

international visitors arriving by train will be coming from 

Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 18:30 

and 6:25 respectively. There is also a train to and from Ploče 

on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth looking into 

as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevo’s train 

station is right near the bus station and you can get into the 

heart of town via a bus, tram or 5-6 KM taxi ride. There is 

no ATM at the station but there is one about 200 metres 

away at the bus station - just turn right when you come out 

of the station, go around and past the main post office and 

the bus station is straight ahead. 

Tourist information 

S a r a j e v o C i t y 

Administration Hamdije 

Kreševljakovića 3, tel. 

(+387) 33 20 83 40, fax 

(+387) 33 20 83 41, grad@ 

sarajevo.ba, www.sarajevo. 

ba, www.sarajevo-tourism. 

com. This agency provides 

travel-related information on 

Sarajevo and its vicinity to domestic and foreign visitors, 

as well as to domestic tour operators and their partner 

tourist agencies from abroad. 

Tourism Community of FB&H Branilaca 

Sarajeva, no 21/II, tel. (+387) 33 252 928, fax 

(+387) 33 252 901, media@tourism.ba, www. 

bhtourism.ba. 

Tourist Community for the Sarajevo District 

Branilaca Sarajeva 21/IV, tel. (+387) 33 25 02 

00/(+387) 33 25 02 02, fax (+387) 33 25 02 

04, tour.off@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevo-tourism. 

com. Info point (airport): Open: 10-17h, Monday- 

Thursday, 12-17h Friday-Sunday QOpen , Mon, Tue, 

Wed, Thu 10:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. 

Autumn 2009 

5

6 BasiCs 

Learn about the facts and figures, the habits and attitudes 

of people and a little bit of Bosanski for a full filling time in 

Sarajevo. 

Disabled travellers 

Bigger shopping centeres in the city offer disabled facilities, 

including toilets and so does the main post office in the centre 

of the city. Pedestrian crossings in the city have dropped 

kerbs, and large intersections in the centre are equipped 

with sound signalling systems. Most restaurants and cafés 

are inaccessible to disabled patrons, and hardly any offer 

toilet facilities for the disabled. 

Money & Exchange 

The Bosnian currency is the Convertible Mark (KM), which 

was introduced in 1998. Coins come in the following 

denominations: 0.05, 0.10 0.20, 0.50, 1, 2 and 5. Banknotes 

come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200. Since 

11 October 2001 the Convertible Mark has been tied to the 

Euro at a rate of €0.51129 = KM1 

You can change money at banks or any post office. The 

differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in 

Sarajevo will change travellers cheques, American Express, 

Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money 

transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office 

and most banks. 

You can find ATMs of the major banks present in the country 

all over the city. Cards widely acceptable in Sarajevo are 

VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Maestro, Diners Club 

and American Express. You can buy almost all goods and 

services with credit cards. You will need cash for green 

markets, some small shops and bars, kiosks, parking fees 

and taxis. 

Basic data 

Country’s population: 4,590,310 (July 2008) (48 % 

Bosniaks, 37.1 % Serbs, 14.3 % Croats and 0.6 % others) 

Sarajevo’s population: 402,000 

Surface: Total 51,209km2 

Longest river: Drina, 346km 

Highest mountain peak: Maglic, 2386m 

Land boundaries: 1,459 

Borders with adjoining country: Montenegro 

- 225km, Croatia - 932km, Serbia - 302km 

Politics: 

Bosnia and Herzegovina is an emerging federal democratic 

republic. The Council of Ministers of BiH is the 

head of government. 

Date of next local elections: General Elections in 2010. 

Members of the Presidency: Haris Silajdzic, Zeljko Komsic 

and Nebojsa Radmanovic 

Chairman of the Council of Ministers: Nikola Spiric 

Governing party: multi-party system 

Local time: 

Sarajevo is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 

hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time. 


Price Level 

McDonald’s Big Mac 

(There is no McDonald’s restaurant in Sarajevo or BiH 

for that matter) 

Loaf of white bread 0.90 KM 

Snickers bar 1 KM 

Litre of vodka 15 KM 

Bottle of local beer (1/2 liter) 1.15 KM 

Pack of Marlboros 3.30 KM 

Public transport ticket 1.80 KM 

Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 

24 exposures 2 KM 

Security 

Touch wood, Sarajevo is a safe and secure city, a million 

miles away from its wartime past. Bosnian people are 

welcoming, friendly to and tolerant of foreigners - they’ve 

had thousands of them in their country for fifteen years - and 

it’s an engagingly safe place. Taxis are cheap, women walk 

home, the city-centre and environs are friendly and largely 

secure. Outside of some of its more deprived and isolated 

suburbs and quarters, Sarajevo is one of the safest cities in 

Europe. Obviously, normal, basic safety precautions should 

be observed, but, for instance, any fights in or outside pubs, 

bars and clubs are extremely rare. 

The occasional presence on the streets of Roma exploiting 

their children as begging accoutrements is an unavoidable 

let-down common everywhere in the region - except in Kosovo 

where they are still largely too afraid of violence to leave their 

settlements. Best not to give them money - it goes not to 

their well-being but their parents’ grubby pockets. And on the 

other end of the spectrum, the vibrant organized crime scene 

in Bosnia means that some real organized gang violence is 

mostly confined to the occasional shooting and car-bombing 

in the cities’ suburbs. 

Smoking 

In terms of smoking, it is safest, as with bars, to assume 

that everywhere you will visit in Sarajevo is a smoking zone, 

be it bars, restaurants, cafes, clubs or hotels, except where 

very strictly classified otherwise. This reviewer, for instance, 

once watched all three female staff at a health-club smoke 

while on-duty. A very high percentage of Bosnians smoke, 

both men and women, and a great deal of teenagers too. 

Despite vague and inaudible efforts to adhere to forthcoming 

EU policy once Bosnia eventually joins the Union, the idea of 

not being able to smoke anywhere in Bosnia would, rather 

nicely, be considered sacrilegious by much of its population. 

It is perfectly common to see people smoking in restaurants 

while others are eating at the same table, many people 

smoke half-way through a course, and the whole country is 

delightfully free of the smoking regulations so common in 

much of the rest of Europe and North America. 

National holidays 

January 1 - New Year, (all offices closed) 

March 1 - Independence day (all offices closed - only in 

Federation of BiH) 

May 1 - International Labor Day (all offices and majority 

of businesses closed) 

November 25 - National day (all offices closed) 


Tourists, back-packers, visitors and business travellers 

should be aware that this is a full-on smoking country, and 

that any complaints by outsiders about cigarette smoke 

and the perils thereof will be met with total derision and 

scornful laughter by both Bosnians and foreigners who 

live there. 

War 

Take a walk through the centre of Sarajevo, and even 

fifteen years after the war ended in 1995, bullet-holes, 

pockmarked pavements hit by mortar and artillery blasts, 

Language 

Pronunciation 

š as in ship 

č as in cello 

ž as in pleasure 

đ in jam 

dž as in enjoy 

Niceties & Necessities 

Yes - Da 

No - Ne 

Good - Dobro 

Please - Molim 

Thank you - Hvala 

Sorry! - Izvini 

Good morning - Dobro jutro 

Good day - Dobar dan 

Hello - Zdravo 

Good night - Laku noć 

Excuse me! - Oprostite 

How are you? - Kako si? 

Practicalities 

When? - Kada? 

Where? - Gdje? 

Who? - Ko? 

Why? - Zašto? 

I have... - Ja imam 

I am... - Ja sam 

What’s your name? - Kako se zoveš? 

My name is... - Zovem se 

I’m from... - Ja sam iz… 

...UK - Velike Britanije 

...USA - Sjedinjenih Američkih Država 

I don’t understand - Ne razumijem 

I don’t speak Bosnian - Ja ne govorim bosanski 

How much does this cost? - Koliko košta? 

Signs 

Open - Otvoreno 

Closed - Zatvoreno 

Entrance - Ulaz 

Exit - Izlaz 

Push - Gurni 

Pull - Vuci 

Numbers 

0 - nula 1 - edan 

2 - dva 3 - tri 

4 - četiri 5 - pet 

6 - šest 7 - sedam 

8 - osam 9 - devet 

10 - deset 20 - dvadeset 

50 - pedeset 100 - sto 


BasiCs 

and the occasional shredded building that has not been 

renovated or demolished are all around you. Look down at 

the pavement when you walk: you’ll see many a familiar shape 

of a large ‘bears’ paw,’ the residue of an explosive mortar 

impact on the ground: fading, pink plastic has been poured 

into some of them to preserve the shape for posterity, sites 

that are known as ‘Sarajevo roses.’ The war in Bosnia saw 

100,000 people die, a million people displaced or turned 

into refugees before NATO troops, and massive international 

humanitarian intervention, flooded into Bosnia to try and 

re-construct the country after the Dayton Peace Accords 

were signed in 1995. 

Days 

Monday - ponedjeljak 

Tuesday - utorak 

Wednesday - srijeda 

Thursday - četvrtak 

Friday - petak 

Saturday - subota 

Sunday - nedjelja 

Months 

January - januar 

February - februar 

March - mart 

April - april 

May - maj 

June - juni 

July - juli 

August - avgust 

September - septembar 

October - oktobar 

November - novembar 

December - decembar 

Time 

Now - sada 

Later - kasnije 

Today - danas 

Tomorrow - sutra 

Yesterday - juče 

In the morning - ujutro 

In the afternoon - poslijepodne 

In the evening - naveče 

At night - noću 

Restaurant talk 

Waiter! - Konobar! 

A table for two - Sto za dvoje 

Non-smoking / smoking - nepušačka zona / pušačka 

zona 

The menu please - Meni/jelovnik, molim Vas 

I’d like to order - Želim da naručim 

Do you have vegetarian food? - Služite li vegetarijansku 

hranu? 

Surprise me! - Iznenadite me 

The bill, please - Račun, molim Vas 

Bar talk 

One coffee, please - Jednu kafu, molim Vas 

A beer, please - Pivo, molim Vas 

Cheers! - Živjeli! 

You have beautiful eyes - Imaš lijepe oči 

Can I have your number - Mogu li dobiti tvoj broj 

telefona? 

Autumn 2009 

7

8 BasiCs 

A word from the mayor 

Welcome to Sarajevo, a city of diversity and friendship. 

Throughout its history, Sarajevo has witnessed numeous 

changes. As a kind of a link between the East and 

the West, as a meeting place of different cultures, ideas 

and customs, Sarajevo has retained each sequence 

of its past, each mark of the times and rulers that 

walked these lands. 

A walk through the heart of the city simultaneaously 

becomes a walk through all the periods of the city’s 

existence. Every visitor can daydream about the sto- 


N°4 - 400 lek 


TIRANA 

2006 - 2007 

ries dating back to the Ottoman Empire or Austrian 

rule. They can listen to the whisper of the past and 

perhaps one day personally talk about the warm, 

welcoming people and about a city where dreams and 

reality meet. This walk will open wide all the doors of 

the past, and every corner will tell its remarkable story, 

from the crowded streets to the silence and shade of 

Sarajevo’s gardens. 

The idea of publishing this type of guide dates back 

several years. The aim was to enable easier access to 

information required to take you through the diversity of 

the city of Sarajevo. The guide contains useful tips and 

directions to places of interest as well as an overview 

of the city scene. In order to realise the idea of the city 

guide a wait was required for the segments of the past 

and the present to join. 

Today Sarajevo is a continously expanding modern 

cosmopolitan centre where new and imposing buildings 

rise. Thanks to events such as the Sarajevo Film 

Festival, Jazz Festival and ‘Baščarškijske Noči’ Festival, 

Sarajevo has become an international metropolis of 

modern art and culture. To this day diversity, opposing 

views, innovative ideas, different cultures and 

generations, old and new architecture and old and 

new art flows all join up in Sarajevo. The citizens of 

Sarajevo create that distinct city feel and the key link 

enabling the harmonization of differences. However, 

Sarajevo does not belong to its citizens only but to all 

those who consider it their own and who visit it with 

good intentions. 

Dr Alija Behmen 

Get In Your Pocket before you go 

The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at: 

www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy 

Shopping fever 

Tirana’s first malls 

Facade art 

Painting the city pink 


BUCHAREST 

N°40 - 8.00 lei 


April - May 2006 

A New Look 

We‘ve never looked 

better: In Your Pocket 

gets a makeover 

Blogging 

Bucharest 

Our guide to the best 

politically incorrect 

comment online 


N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) 


ISSN 1641-5264 


N°7 - Free copy 


WARSAW 

August - September 2006 

BELFAST 


Wilanów 

Explore the Polish 

Versailles 

Out of town 

Poland‘s top spa town: 

Nałęczów 

The Great 

Outdoors 

Cycling, skydiving and 

country pursuits 

Gastro Tourism 

Seafood, whiskey and 

St. George’s Market 


N°34 - 100 Kč 



N°60 - 1.20Ls 


PRAGUE 


RIGA 


Going to the 

chapel 

Karlštejn’s renovated 

jewel 

Let’s rock 

Visiting the Bohemian 

Paradise 

Hockey Fever 

Everything you need to 

know about IIHF World 

Championship in Riga 

Explore Latvia 

Take a day trip to 

the seaside towns of 

Jūrmala and Liepāja 



Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com 

COLOGNE 

Football events 

Win or lose, this is 

where to party 

River tours 

Wine and dine on the 

Rhine 

N°1 

Complimentary copy 


June - July 2006 

N°23 - €1.75 


BERLIN 


Museum night 

100 museums in one 

night 

Floating the 

boat 

Spree river tours 


HAMBURG 

N°1 




Harbour tours 

Down in the docks 





N°47 - 35kr 


TALLINN 


Touring Narva 

Cool sights at the EU‘s 

eastern border 

IYP gets a new 

look 

The inside scoop on the 

new look inside 


N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) 


ISSN 1508-2334 

KRAKÓW 


Tarnów 

Explore the Pearl of the 

Renaissance 

Leisure 

Getting active in Kraków

Bosnian Cuisine 

If you like meat, you’ll love Bosnia and Herzegovina. 

Meat is a standard for any meal. However, there is still 

lots of interesting meals you can make do if you are a 

vegetarian. 

A typical breakfast is very different from a traditional 

English, American or Australian breakfast, but they can 

be found in the occasional restaurant. Omlettes, hams, 

eggs and cheeses are very popular and can be found even 

in most places. 

For budget travelers the large supermarkets carry fruit 

yogurt, muesli, and juices and the open markets are 

always filled with fresh fruit. Bakeries open early and 

sell hot rolls, croissants, brown bread, apple and cherry 

strudles which you can take to a cafe and enjoy with a 

morning cappucino. 

All travellers should at some point enter a buregdzenica and 

try the famous traditional pita dishes of burek, zeljanica, 

sirnica, and krompirusa. They are all made from scratch 

and have been a traditional meal since Ottoman times. 

Burek is a meat pie wrapped in filo-dough. The zeljanica 

is made from spinach and cheese. Sirnica is made from a 

fresh, homemade cheese and krompirusa is diced potatoes 

with spices. Usually one portion (porcija) is enough to stuff 

you. A porcija costs between 2-3KM. They may ask if you 

like pavlaka spread on top. Pavlaka is a fresh cream that 

tastes wonderful with the pita. Thin yogurt is also a popular 

drink alongside your pita. 

Meat eating travellers should try out the wide range of 

available meats and should not miss the typical rostiljnica 

that serves up a range of grilled meats specialities. 

Whether chicken, beef, lamb, or pork, they come fresh from 

the mountainside. It is common practice here to raise all 

animals free range, and with no hormones or chemicals. 

Most people say they can taste the difference. 

Here is a list of the most popular traditional dishes: 

Cevapi small meat sausages of lamb and beef mix. They 

are usually served with fresh onions and pita bread on the 

side. Cevapi usually come in pointer finger size sausages 

and are offered by five or ten pieces. 

Teletina is veal, usually served in cutlets. Veal in BiH 

is not produced by locking calves in a cage to ensure 

softer meat. 

Jagnjetina lamb grilled over an open fire. 

Musaka a meat pie made of minced beef, very similar to 

shepherds pie. 

Filovane paprike fried peppers stuffed with minced meat 

and spices. 

Pršut air dried ham, similar to italian proscuitto. 

Sudžuk beef sausages with a similar form to pepperoni. 

Suho Meso dried meat, either beef or pork. 

Sarme meat and rice rolled in cabbage or grape leaves. 

‘Ispod Saca’ similar to a dutch oven. A metal dish is 

placed on hot coals, the food is placed in the dish and 

covered by a lid which is then completely covered in hot 

coals and left to bake. 


Cevapi sa kajmakom 

BasiCs 

Cheeses are also prepared and strained in a variety of 

ways and are absolutely delicious. The vegetarian traveller 

will have a hell of a time getting through these which can 

ordered as a large starter or side dish in restaurants, 

bought in supermarkets or at the market where is has 

been freshly and naturally prepared. 

Travnicki a white, feta-like cheese from the Travnik district 

in central Bosnia. It is a bit salty and very popular with 

‘meze’, which is the tradition of slow drinking and eating 

throughout the course of a whole day. 

Vlašicki similar to travnicki cheese. It is a highland 

cheese from the mountain villages on Vlašic Mountain in 

central Bosnia. 

Livanjski is more similar to the dry yellow cheeses of 

Dalmatia. It is very tasty and usually more expensive than 

others. It originates from the west Bosnian town of Livno. 

Mladi Sir literally means young cheese. There isn’t an 

equivalent to it in English. It has a soft texture and is 

unsalted. Often times it is served with a cream sauce on 

top. It is very healthy. 

Kajmak is the most difficult of all cheeses to translate. 

It is the top layer skimmed from milk, it is creamy and 

extremely tasty. Kajmak and ustipak (doughnut type roll) 

is a wonderful appetizer. 

Iz mjeha sheep milk poured into a specially sewn sheep 

skin ‘bag.’ After a time the dry cheese is taken out of the 

skin container and the result is a strong, dry cheese that 

resembles real parmesan. 

Inat Kuća is a great place to sample traditional Bosnian fare 

Autumn 2009 

9

10 history 

Sarajevo is the administrative and cultural capital of 

Bosnia and Herzegovina. Situated at the far southern 

end of the Dinaric Alps, it lies between the mountains of 

Romanija, Bjelašnica, Igman and Trebević, and through it 

flows the narrow, shallow Miljacka River, which rises close 

to Pale, five miles due east of the city. 

First Settlements 

Sarajevo is stretched across an area known as Sarajevo 

Field, and there are numerous archeological findings 

attesting to settlements in this area dating back to the 

Neolithic period, as well as records that point to a significant 

Ilyiran presence in the area. A primary Neolithic site was 

found at Butmir, outside Sarajevo. Ilyrian tribes flourished 

in the region from about 1,000 BC until their final conquest 

by the Romans around 9AD. For the Romans, with their 

aggressive, commercially-oriented and warlike policy of 

spreading the Pax Romana, the mountainous country that 

lay just next door to them became a source of mineral wealth, 

particularly silver. 

Spread of Christianity 

Between 6-800 AD arrived the Slavs, there was widespread 

conversion to Christianity, and the next five hundred years saw 

Bosnia at the focal point of influence through varying periods 

of conquest, control and administration by Serbs, Hungarians, 

Byzantines and Croats. The medieval town of Hodidjed was 

located in the vicinity of today’s Sarajevo; however, the actual 

name of the city, which comes from the Turkish words saray 

and ovasi, meaning ‘court’ and ‘field’ respectively, indicates 

that Sarajevo is a creation of the Ottoman Empire. 

The Ottomans 

Bosnia had starting emerging as an independent state since 

the mid-1100s, and became a kingdom under King Tvrtko 

the 1st in 1377, just as the Turks started their foray into the 

country, presaging the Ottoman invasion which took place 

between 1430 to 1592, when the last town in Bosnia - Bihac 

- fell into Turkish hands. The country was now part of the 

Ottoman Empire, and just in case there was any question 

that the country’s religious mix of Orthodox, Christianity and 

the indigenous Bosnian church was not sufficient, Islam 

joined the fray. Sarajevo became one of the most powerful 

cities in the Turks’ new frontier territories, and although the 

capital moved twice, to Banja Luka and Travnik, Sarajevo 

remained the nerve-centre. 

Sarajevo was founded in the mid 15th century by the Ottoman 

governor of Bosnia - Isa-bey Ishakovic - to house the area’s 

Ottoman government. Anyone strolling through Sarajevo will 

easily notice the city’s three distinct parts, each of which are 

reflective of the historical period in which it was built. The 

initial expansion of the city occurred during the first 150 years 

or so of Ottoman rule. Many of the city’s architectural gems 

were built during this period, such as Gazi Husrev Bey’s and 

The Emperor’s Mosques. Baščaršija - the city’s once-great 

bazaar - was also constructed during the same period. By 

the beginning of the 17th century, Sarajevo grew into a 

vibrant community of artisans and an important merchant 

trading post, as well as one of the most significant cities in 

the European part of the Ottoman Empire. In 1697 Sarajevo 

was attacked and burnt by Prince Eugene of Savoy, the final 

of series of unremitting attacks by the Hapsburgs and the 

Venetians. The Ottomans moved the capital to Travnik, and 

Sarajevo started to refuse to accept governors sent from 

Istanbul. This independent, self-determining and occasionally 

bloody-mindedness of spirit was to become a core feature of 

the city’s identity, most recently surfacing during the four-year 

siege of the city from 1992-1995. 

Austro-Hungarian Rule 

The city’s second architectural expansion started following 

the Austro-Hungarian occupation in the late 19th century 

and lasted until the beginning of World War I in 1914, after 

the 1878 treaty of Berlin gave the Austro-Hungarian Empire 

a mandate to administer Bosnia. The city was modernized 

during this period. Austro-Hungarians established the city’s 

first public transportation system and the first telephone lines. 

Many cultural and educational institutions were founded in this 

period as well. The National (Land) Museum, the First Sheriate 

Law High School and the National Theatre. Sarajevo City Hall, 

Ashkenazi Synagogue, and Catholic Cathedral were also added 

to the expanding city. The growth of Sarajevo was interrupted 

on June 28, 1914 when Gavrilo Princip assassinated Austro- 

Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophia 

during their visit to Sarajevo, setting off the chain of events 

that led to the start of World War I. 

Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes 

Following the Treaty of Versailles in 1918 that ended World 

War I, Sarajevo, along with Bosnia and Herzegovina, became 

a part of the newly-formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and 

Slovenes. It remained within the later-renamed Kingdom 

of Yugoslavia until the beginning of World War II, when the 

monarchy was abolished and, following the end of the war, 

the new socialist Yugoslavia was created. 

Yugoslavia and Socialism 

The general plan for development of Sarajevo was adopted 

in 1945, and the city that suffered tremendous losses during 

World War II under the Germans expanded. German occupation 

had started in 1941, and Bosnia was assimilated into an 

atrocious Croatian Ustasha nationalist entity, where multiple 

atrocities were carried out, particularly against Serbs, many 

of which took place at the notorious Jasenovac concentration 

camp south of Zagreb where between 50-70,000 people, 

mainly Serbs, were slaughtered. In 1943 Josep Brod Tito, 

leading the Bosnian partisans on covert operations in the 

mountain fastnesses of the centre of the country, established 

the basis of the post-war Yugoslavia, of which Bosnia would 

be one of six republics. Subsequent to the war, Sarajevo was 

not only rebuilt but considerably expanded as well. It almost 

tripled in size during its third expansion which took place during 

the formative years of socialist Yugoslavia. By 1984, when the 

city hosted the 14th Winter Olympic Games, Sarajevo was a 

modern capital city of around 500,000 people. 

Looking Back 

Talk to Bosnians about the Tito era, and it is fondly 

remembered as a halcyon period set in a kind of aspic of 

nostalgia, of benevolent socialism, when everybody had a 

car, a state apartment, holidays on the coast every year, 

and life was a given. Yes and no, is the answer. The dream 

was founded on political repression and kept alive by wildly 

unrealistic economic planning and strategies, based on much 

heavy foreign borrowing. But for most people, it functioned, 

Tito kept nationalism at bay, and the country appeared to 

prosper. It was during this period that Sarajevo developed a 

reputation as something of a cultural centre, a party town, 

and acquired the rather clichéd adjective that is so often used 

to describe it: cosmopolitan. But it was a tougher, fiercely 

independent and more gutsy series of characteristics that 

was to carry it through the years of the 1992-1995 war. 


Sarajevo brims with an affordable and diverse cultural life. 

It is proudly host to the Sarajevo Film Festival, which in fact 

in one of the most important in south eastern Europe. Festivals, 

performances, concerts and events are happening 

in and around town almost all the time so be sure to keep 

an eye (or an ear) out for some cultural entertainment. 

Music events 

Terminal Festival - electronic music 

Various venues 

9 - 12 October 2009 

Hladno Piva 

Dom Mladih, Skenderija 

23 October 

French Hardcore Night 

Klub AG 

27 October 

Concierto de Aranjuez by J. Rodrigo 

National Theatre 

30 October 

Halloween with Lutzenkirchen 

Skenderija 

31 October 2009 

Anouar Brahem 

Bosnian Cultural Centre 

4 November 2009 

S.A.R.S. 

Coloseum Club 

7 November 

Analena 

OKC Abrasevic 

4 December 

Analena 

Access Club 

5 December 

Sarajevo Jazz Fest 


Culture & events 

Vrooom 

City Pub 

9 December 2009 

Festivals 

Agro Food Skenderija Centre, tel. (+387) 33 21 73 

27. Sarajevo’s inaugural eco-food fair runs from 18 - 21 

December, and includes tastings and competitions as well 

as various lectures, conferences and round-table discussion 

with participants from Bosnia and abroad. 

Baščaršijske Noći Dalmatinska 2/1, tel. (+387) 

33 20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 72, fax (+387) 33 

207 921, sarajevoart@bih.net.ba, www.bascarsijskenoci.ba. 

“Baščaršija Nights” is the traditional 

summer festival that takes place each year for the entire 

month of July on Sarajevo’s streets, squares, theaters, 

and galleries. The festival offers ballets and theater 

performances, exhibits, concerts of popular and classical 

music, and special programs for children and youth. 

Q Free admission. 

International Theater Festival (MESS) B-3, Maršala 

Tita 54/1, tel. (+387) 33 20 03 92/(+387) 33 21 19 72, 

fax (+387) 33 21 19 72, mess@mess.ba, www.mess. 

ba. The International Theater Festival (MESS) has been held 

since the 1960s. The event attracts various international 

theatre groups as well as some of the most prestigious 

names of theatre. MESS is the perfect opportunity to watch 

masterpieces of performing arts at a low price, and usually 

without advance reservations. This year it runs from 16 - 27 

October, and will feature 26 performances by ensembles from 

14 countries. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 

Sarajevo Film Festival B-4, Zelenih Beretki 12/I, 

tel. (+387) 33 22 15 16, fax (+387) 33 26 33 81, 

info-sff@sff.ba, www.sff.ba. The Sarajevo Film Festival 

(SFF) is the most prestigious film festival in south eastern 

Europe, and aims to support and promote the art of film 

within the region. The festival has a distinctly international 

character and seems to have increased in both scale and 

notoriety each year since it was first held in 1995. QOpen 

09:00 - 17:00. 

Poštanski Pretinac 600, tel. (+387) 33 55 04 80/(+387) 61 26 71 14, fax (+387) 33 55 04 81, info@jazzfest. 

ba, www.jazzfest.ba. The international music festival Jazz Fest has been held since 1996. Every year Jazz Fest hosts 

some of the most prestigious jazz musicians from around the world. If you are in Sarajevo in November, don’t miss it. 

Autumn 2009 

11

12 Culture & events 

La Boheme at the National Theatre 

Sarajevska Zima (Sarajevo Winter) Maršala Tita 9a, 

tel. (+387) 33 20 79 45/(+387) 33 20 79 48, fax (+387) 

33 20 79 48, ibrosa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevskazima. 

ba. Sarajevo Winter has become a traditional gathering of artists 

from all over the world ever since it was first held in 1984 

during the XIV Winter Olympic Games. The program features 

concerts, exibitions in galleries and museums, theater plays. 

There is something for everyone. 

Cinemas 

Apolo Mis Irbina 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 52 01. 

Multiplex Cinema City Titova 26, tel. (+387) 33 

228 008, fax. (+387) 33 228 008, info@cinemacity. 

ba, www.cinemacity.ba 

Unitic Fra Anđela Zvizdovića 1, tel. (+387) 33 29 50 

01. QOpen 18:00 - 20:30. 

Concert Halls 

Sarajevo Arts Agency Dalmatinska 2/I, tel. (+387) 33 

20 79 29/(+387) 33 20 79 21, fax (+387) 33 20 79 72, 

koncagsa@bih.net.ba, www.sarajevoarts.ba. The Sarajevo 

Arts Agency organises a variety of concerts and festivals around 

Sarajevo and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina. 

Sarajevo Philharmonic B-4, Obala Kulina 9, tel. 

(+387) 33 66 65 19/(+387) 33 66 65 20, fax (+387) 

33 66 65 21. The Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra is able 

to trace its roots back to before World War I, when serious 

musicians in the region were engaged in military instrumental 

music and other ensembles such as the Military Music 

Orchestra, the Student Orchestra of the Great Gymnasium 

of Sarajevo, the Musical Choir for Violins, of the Serbian vocal 

association “Sloga”, and Mannergesangverein, a musical 

society comprised of Austrian officials. 

Culture Centres 

British Council Ljubljanska 9, tel. (+387) 33 250 220, 

fax (+387) 33 250 240, British.Council@britishcouncil. 

ba, www.britishcouncil.ba. The British Council is the UK’s 

leading international organisation for educational and cultural 

relations. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed 

Sat, Sun. Information Centre: 

Opening Times are from 12:00 - 17:00. 

Centre Andre Malraux Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 

8, tel. (+387) 33 206 889, fax (+387) 33 668 605, 

malraux@bih.net.ba, www.malraux.ba. A French cultural 

centre based in Sarajevo. Library and information available 

for French speaking expatriates. French lessons for locals. 

QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. The 

Library has different opening times: 

Monday, Wednesday, Friday: 10:00-18:00h 

Tuesday and Thursday: 14:00-18:00h 

Culture Department of the Spanish Embassy 

Čekaluša 14, tel. (+387) 33 223 331/(+387) 33 278 

560, fax (+387) 33 278 582, ofcult@bih.net.ba. Part 

of the Spanish Embassy, the cultural department organizes 

events related to Spanish and Latin American culture. Ask 

here also for Spanish language courses. QOpen 10:00 

- 13:00 & 15:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 

Goethe Institut B-5, Bentbaša 1a, tel. (+387) 33 570 

000, fax (+387) 33 570 030, info@sarajevo.goethe. 

org, www.goethe.de/sarajevo. The cultural centre from 

Germany organizes german language courses, exhibitions, 

concerts and so on relating to German culture. QOpen 09:00 

- 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 

Islamic Republic of Iran Culture Centre Ferhadija 2, tel. 

(+387) 33 711 055. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 

Turkish Cultural Information Centre B-4, Mula 

Mustafe Bašeskije do 31, tel. (+387) 33 271 150. 

Movies on Tuesdays at 17:00 (English subtitles). QOpen 

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 

Galleries 

Collegium Artisticum A-2, Terezije bb (Centar Skenderija), 

tel. (+387) 33 270 750/(+387) 33 204 352, 

fax (+387) 33 270 751, cagalerija@open.net.ba, www. 

collegium.ba. Formed in 1975, Collegium Artisticum provided 

a gallery and meeting place for the nation’s three premier 

art associations. Operating throughout the war years, the 

Collegium remains a gathering venue for many of the city’s 

artists and intellectuals and has been involved in a range of 

cultural programmes that cover the arts in all their forms. 

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 

Galerija 10m² ((Camille Laurelli)) B-4, Stakleni 

Grad, Ferhadija 17, tel. (+387) 63 95 21 97/(+387) 61 

917 037. Q Thu-Sun 14:00-19:00, closed Mon-Wed 

Retrospectrum B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, tel. (+387) 33 

266 550, fax (+387) 33 664 162, ugbih@yahoo.com. 

Q Tue-Sat 12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon 

Theatres 

Sarajevo Youth Theatre B-3, Kulovića 8, tel. (+387) 

33 44 25 72, fax (+387) 33 20 57 99, pozmladi@bih. 

net.ba, www.pozoristemladih.ba. Formed in 1997, the 

Sarajevo Youth Theatre was the result of a merger between 

two other theatre groups for young people that had been in 

existence since 1950. It has won numerous accolades and 

awards and some of its members have gone to become 

amongstBosnia’s best-known performers. As their website 

says, ‘Sarajevo’s Youth Theatre has been and has remained 

a theatre for all generations.’ 

SARTR (Sarajevo War Theatre) Ćemaluša 1, 

tel. (+387) 33 66 40 70. Often performing for beer 

and cigarettes during the siege, when most artists and 

performers had fled the city, these days the Sarajevo 

War Theatre (SARTR) is a successful professional theatre 

company with an international reputation. During the war the 

company gave over 2000 performances, often in the most 

difficult of conditions, as part of the ‘theatre against death’ 

motive that lay at the heart of its formation and existence. 

The National Theatre B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 9, tel. 

(+387) 33 22 16 82/(+387) 33 66 36 47, fax (+387) 33 

44 51 38, npsa@bih.net.ba, www.nps.ba. The National 

Theatre of Sarajevo has been performing both in Bosnia and 

abroad since its founding in 1921. During the last 85 + years 

its performers, directors, choreographers and other staff have 

won great acclaim and numerous awards. QOpen 09:00 

- 12:00 & 16:00 - 19:30. Tickets: €2.50-5. 



Culture & events 

Autumn 2009 

13

14 Culture & events 

INTERNATIONAL THEATER FESTIVAL 

MESS - SARAJEVO 

Sarajevo is a city of a long theatre tradition and culture, and MESS Festival (Small and Experimental Stages), was one 

of the best theatre events in the territory of the former Yugoslavia. The MESS Festival forty nine years of its existence 

undoubtedly promoted modern theatre expression. Since 1960, the year when the Festival was established, numerous 

ensembles from almost all the world’s major theatre centers (Warsaw, Paris, New York, Moscow, Zurich, Bologna, 

Bucharest, Budapest…) have taken part in it. 

As it was impossible to organize an International Theatre Festival during the siege of the City, in 1993 the International 

Theatre and Film Festival started presentations and productions of artistic programs whose aim was, under the siege 

conditions, to contribute to the cultural life in Sarajevo, international reputation of the city, to the establishment and 

development of international cooperation. Culture as a fundamental human need was used as one of the ways to break 

up to the siege, to maintain life, to cherish quality… Within its activities, the MESS organized the First International 

Film Festival in 1993, which was estimated to have been the most important event in 1993, then the Festival of the 

Sarajevo Alternative Scene. The theatre production was also continued so that from 1993 to the end of the siege ten 

performances were produced, among which there were “Waiting for Godot” directed by Susan Sontag, “Alcestis” , 

“Silk Drums”, “In the Country of Last Things”, “Golden Eternal Braid” directed by Haris Pašović, “Circus” directed by 

Peter Schumann. In 1994 the Sarajevo Festival Ensemble, as part of the MESS Festival, with two of its performances 

did its large tour of Europe, organized by Peter Brook Theatre, Bouffes du Nord (Paris), playing on the stages of Paris, 

Amsterdam, Geneva, Berlin… The MESS also organized a multimedia festival “Baby Universe” (the summer of ’94) 

and a large project Memory Module (’96) under which published were the translations of Paul Auster’s books, Claude 

Lanzmann’s “Shoah”, and presented was the series of “Mahabharata”, held were concerts and exhibitions… 

In 1997, the Festival was resumed. Inter alia the following were presented: Volksbühne am Rosa Luxemburg Platz 

Theater, Stary Teatr, Picollo Theater, Theatre des Bouffes du Nord, Centre Choregraphique National D’Orleans, Living 

Theatre, Divadlo Komedie, Theater Lliure, Rosas Company, Theater A.D. Ruhr, The Moving House Theater Company, 

Meno Fortas Theatre Company, Schaubuehne am Lehniner Platz, schauspielhannover, staatsoperhannover, Moskovskii 

Teatr Yunogo Zritelya, Katona Jozsef Színház, Le Volcan – Scène Nationale du Havre, Pandur Theatres, State Academic 

Drama Theater named T. Shevchenko, Centre for Theatre Practices “Gardzienice”, Teatro delle Albe, Les Ballets C. de 

la B., Footsbarn Theatre, Oskaro Koršunovo Teatras, National Theatre Ivan Vazov, Betty Nansen Teatret, Complicite, 

Kretakor Szinhaz… And directors and actors such as Eugenio Baraba, Frank Castorf, Giorgio Strehler, Josef Nadj, 

Ariel Garcia Valdes, Phillipe Adrien, Rudi Häusermann, Roberto Ciulli, Anne Teresa de Keersmaker, Paolo Magelli, 

Eimuntas Nekrosius, Thomas Ostermeier, Wlodzimierz Staniewski, Mark Tompkins, Pippo Delbono, Olivier Py, Sidi 

Larbi Cherkaoui, Mark Tompkins, Alexandar Morfov, Oskaras Koršunovas, Luc Dunberry, Robert Wilson, Simon 

McBurney, Arpad Schilling, Nicolas Stemann, Marco Martinelli, Peter Brook, Kama Ginkas, Tomaž Pandur, Rodrigo 

Garcia, Andriy Zholdak… 

Unrestrained theatre play and specific theatre expression established themselves as the Festival aesthetic and ethical 

postulates. This means that the Festival is open for contemporary trends in the world theatre (and exchange with it) 

without the narrowing of horizons of understanding the theatre language, respecting the freedom of author’s concept 

and system, his attitude to “old” and “new” forms of expression and content. Therefore, the Festival aspires to be an 

annual review of the most interesting theatre achievements, professional theatres, theatre companies, ensembles 

projects conceived and carried out throughout the world the quality of which is professionally recognized. 

The Festival also has a production character... During the Festival, symposiums will be held and they will also have 

international character with the participation of critics, theatre analysts, drama artists and writers. During their stay, 

many outstanding guests will visit faculties, conduct workshops and creative activities. 

The realisation of the 49th International Theater Festival MESS Sarajevo has started already. As usual, the MESS Festival 

will be held from 16 - 26 October on the all theater stages of Sarajevo, Zenica, but Gorazde and Srebrenica, too. 


Paragliding on Jahorina 

Extreme Sports 

Scorpio Extreme Sports Club Tel. (+387) 61 60 

81 30/+387 61 78 81 05, info@scorpio.ba, www. 

scorpio.ba. 

Fitness Centres 

Club Fighter Branilaca Dobrinje 4a, tel. (+387) 61 23 

11 29, fighter@bih.net.ba, clubfighter.net. 

Dino company B-3, Mis Irbina 10, tel. (+387) 61 55 07 

80/(+387) 61 55 07 81, dino.company@gmail.com. 

Fitness Centre Body Art B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina 

bb, Zetra, tel. (+387) 33 276 123. 

Hotel Green Ustanicka bb, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 63 97 

01, greenp@bih.net.ba, www.green.co.ba. 

L.A. Lifetime Fitness Dzemala BIjedica 166a, 

tel. (+387) 61 10 94 32, info@lafitness.ba, www. 

lafitness.ba. 

Triumph Sports for Kids Semira Fraste 13, tel. 

(+387) 61 01 84 82. 

Youth House Džemala Bijedića bb, tel. +387 33 

660 519, centar@youthhousesarajevo.ba, www. 

youthhousesarajevo.ba. 

Paintball 

Patinball CKP B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina bb, Zetra, 

tel. (+387) 62 12 22 26, fax ((+387) 33 55 49 06, int@ 

ckp.ba, ckp.ba. 

Stadiums & Arenas 

CSC Ilidža Mala Aleja 67, Ilidža, tel. +387 33 63 

65 14. 

CSC Skenderija A-2, Terezije bb, tel. (+387) 33 20 11 

93, sport@skenderija.ba, http://www.skenderija.ba. 

Grbavica Stadium Zvornička 27, tel. (+387) 33 71 

52 01. 

Koševo Stadium D-2, Patriotske lige 35, tel. (+387) 

33 26 87 61. 

Ramiz Salčin Hall Semira Frašte bb, tel. (+387) 33 

77 75 90. 


sPorts & aCtivities 

Swimming Pools 

Termalna Rivijera Butmirska cesta 18, Ilidža, tel. 

(+387) 33 771 000, fax (+387) 33 771 010, info@ 

terme-ilidza.ba, www.terme-ilidza.ba. Large water park 

in Ilidža. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Pools: 9.00 a.m. - 9.00 

p.mTropical garden: 8.00 a.m. - 10.00 p.m. Admission: 

KM 9-17. PTAFLGBKC 

Tennis 

Tennis Centre Stup Nikole Šopa 217 (Bojnička bb), 

tel. (+387) 33 468 231/(+387) 33 457 286, contact@ 

tcs.ba, www.tcs.ba. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. 

Tennis Head Akademija Donji Hotonj II/B, tel. (+387) 

33 482 416/(+387) 61 172 894, fax (+387) 33 482 

415, info@headakademija.ba, www.headakademija. 

ba. 

Hiking 

Hotel Termag Poljice 

bb, Jahorina, tel. 

(+387) 57 27 04 22, 

w w w.termaghotel. 

com. The hills around 

Sarajevo are alive with 

the sounds of a range 

of outdoor activities 

throughout most of the 

year. Well-known for 

winter sports, the region 

also offers plenty 

to do in the warmer 

months, including hiking 

and biking through 

the beautiful Bosnian 

mountains. The Hotel Termag, the big place situated 

on the slopes of Jahorina, offers a range of activities for 

guests or day visitors. In summer, mountain and quad 

bikes can be hired or you can give paragliding a go to 

get a bird’s eye view of a bit of Bosnia. During the winter 

there are ski and snowboarding classes and the hotel 

also boasts its own ice rink. And, if that all sounds way 

too active, the coffee shop and bar is a great place from 

which to watch others exercising. 

Skakavac If you fancy wandering to a waterfall make 

the hike up to Skakavac, just north of the city. The falls 

themselves are a pretty sight and the wander through 

the woods has a forest fairytale feel to it. You can drive 

much of the way, or walk the five or so kilometres up 

from the last bus stop in Nahoreva village, or go as far 

as the taxi driver will take you once the road turns to dirt 

and tramp the rest of the way. The turn-off to the falls 

is clearly marked and the path well-trodden. If you want 

refreshment it’s recommended you drop into Dragan’s. 

This rustic restaurant is located on the right hand side of 

the road just before the timber archway. It’s very much a 

‘what’s going is what you get’ place and since what’s going 

is basic but delicious local food and a terrific atmosphere 

a brief stop can easily turn into an overnight stay (simple 

accommodation - as in Dragan will throw you a blanket 

and pillow and direct you towards the loft - is available), 

or mark the first of many return visits. 

Autumn 2009 

15

16 Where to stay 

Accommodation in Sarajevo is readily available for the 

traveling weary businessman or backpacker. You will have 

no problem finding a luxurious room in a hotel or a cheap 

hostel or B&B with the following selection. 

Symbol key 

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted 

O Casino H Conference facilities 

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled 

F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 

R Internet G Non-smoking rooms 

K Restaurant J Old town location 

D Sauna C Swimming pool 

6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi 

Upmarket 

Central B-4, Ćumurija 8, tel. (+387) 33 56 18 00, 

info@hotelcentral.ba, westwood.ba. More of a luxury 

fitness centre and spa than a hotel - a member of staff once 

quantified it for us as an 85/15 split in favour of the former 

- this West Wood-managed venture occupies a beautifullyrestored 

old building in the city centre. The gym is packed 

with state-of-the-art equipment, while the colonnaded pool 

is reminiscent of Justinian’s Cistern. The 15 rooms upstairs 

are expectedly lavish, although strangely enough for such 

an upmarket location some only have small skylights rather 

than actual windows. Q 15 rooms (single KM200, doubles 

KM240, suite KM300). PJAFKDCW 

City Boutique B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 2, 

tel. (+387) 33 566 850, info@cityhotel.ba, www. 

cityhotel.ba. Only opened in August, this is the newest 

addition to Sarajevo’s upmarket accommodation field. 

Situated halfway between Baščaršija and the BBI shopping 

complex, virtuallyevery place of interest in the city centre 

is only a few minutes walk away. The modern façade 

stands in stark contrast to neighbouring buildings, and 

while the interior design is not quite modern minimalist 

you do get the impression that you’ve jumped at least a 

few years into the future. If you’re staying for any length of 

time definitely consider upgrading to the deluxe rooms or 

smaller apartments - they offer significantly more space 

and the price difference is negligible. Q 19 rooms (singles 

€90-100, doubles €100-110, apartments €130-150). 

PJARLW 

Europe B-4, Vladislava Skarića 5, tel. (+387) 33 

580 400/(+387) 33 580 500, fax (+387) 33 580 

580, reception@hoteleurope.ba, www.hoteleurope. 

ba. Located in the heart of Old Sarajevo, the hotel was 

first established back in 1882 and reopened earlier this 

year after an extensive make-over. A modern wing has 

been cleaved onto the eastern side of the original Austro- 

Hungarian structure giving the façade a somewhat bipolar 

appearance, but the interior is about as luxurious as you’re 

likely to find anywhere in the city. The spacious rooms are 

exceedingly comfortable and many offer spectacular views 

of the surrounding Baščaršija area. Add to all this the 30% 

discount they’re offering until the end of the year and the 

place is downright cheap. Q 160 rooms (singles €92-143, 

doubles €123-179, apartments €230) All rooms 30% off 

until the end of 2009.. PJHARFLBKCW 

Hecco De Luxe B-4, Ferhadija 2, tel. (+387) 33 

55 99 95, fax (+387) 33 55 89 95, heccodeluxe@ 

gmail.com, www.heccodeluxe.com. This restaurant 

and series of small hotel apartments has just been built 

on the very top of the JAT tower: a rickety, old apartment 

block sitting at the junction of Ferhadija and Marshal Tito 

streets, overlooking the Eternal Flame memorial to the dead 

partisans of World War Two. Q (singles €100, doubles €130). 

PTYJHAULGBKXW 

Holiday Inn B-1, B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387) 

33 28 80 00, fax (+387) 33 66 38 62, reservation@ 

holiday-inn.ba, www.holiday-inn.com/sarajevo. 

Oh dear. The iconic wartime days of Sarajevo’s famous 

Holiday Inn, bullet-riddled and holding out to the last, 

filled with war-correspondents and gritty hotel staff 

existing on the edge, are sadly long gone. Apart from 

nice mushrooms at breakfast, some charming staff and 

faded memories, this overpriced, uncomfortable and 

architecturally hideous hotel has few redeeming features 

anymore. Q 220 rooms (singles €100, doubles €150). 

PTYJHA6UIFLGBKXW 

Radon Plaza Džemala Bijedica 185, tel. (+387) 33 75 

29 00/(+387) 33 75 29 06, fax (+387) 33 75 29 01, 

booking@radonplazahotel.ba, www.radonplazahotel. 

ba. This glistening five-star tower owned by the Avaz 

business group is Sarajevo’s first full-functional five-star 

hotel. It’s set way out of the centre of town, but if you 

are there for business it’s perfect. There are 112 rooms, 

conference centres, a spa, a swimming-pool, internet 

connection everywhere, a revolving restaurant, supremely 

comfortable rooms and 24-hour room-service - in short, 

everything one would expect. And it’s not that much 

more expensive than more prosaic city-centre joints. Q 

122 rooms (singles €105, doubles €170, 3 suites €245). 

PTHAUFLEGBKDXCW 

Ornate Bosnian woodwork 



Sarajevo Džemala Bijedica 169 A, tel. (+387) 33 777 

900, fax (+387) 33 473 043, info@sarajevohotel.ba, 

sarajevohotel.ba. Aside from an almost surreal petrol 

station marring the otherwise gorgeous exterior, this place is 

one of the most aesthetically perfect hotels we’ve ever seen - 

unfortunately it has prices to match. Situated in new Sarajevo 

near the national television station and countless shiny 

new office buildings, it unabashedly caters to an upmarket 

business clientele. The rooms are absolutely stunning as are 

the views from the enormous rooftop terrace and restaurant. 

Curiously, non-guests can use the small fitness centre and 

massage services for fairly reasonable fees. Q 66 rooms 

(singles €81-131, doubles €91-151, apartments €253). 

PHARUIFLBKDCW 

Mid-range 

Astra Garni B-4, Kunduržiluk 2, tel. (+387) 33 47 

51 00/(+387) 33 47 52 00, fax (+387) 33 47 63 00, 

h.astra.garni@bih.net.ba, www.astra-garni.com. 

ba. This comfortable, modern hotel is set bang in the 

heart of Bascarsija, boasting a gym, sauna, conference 

facilities and nicely-designed rooms, some set on two 

levels. Probably the most conveniently-set hotel in town, 

the downside is that Sarajevo’s heaving street culture 

on the pedestrian lanes of Baščaršija can make it noisy 

during summer months. But in winter it is both romantic 

and efficient for business or pleasure. Q 53 rooms and 

14 suites (singles €90, doubles €120, suites €130). 

PTYJHA6UFLGKDXW 

Astra Hotel B-4, Zelenih Beretki 9, tel. (+387) 33 

25 21 00/(+387) 33 25 20 00, fax (+387) 33 20 99 

39, h.astra@bih.net.ba, www.hotel-astra.com.ba. 

Comfortable, affordable, central, with friendly staff and great 

breakfasts. Rooms on the second floor are best: king-sized 

Out for a stroll in Baščaršija 

beds swirled with silk drapes, luxurious fitted bathrooms and 

cable television. Downstairs in the breakfast room there’s 

a filling selection of pastries first thing in the morning. This 

hotel is a stone’s throw from the Gavrilo Princip Bridge, where 

Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914. Q 

17 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, apartment €120). 

PTYJA6UGKX 

Bosnia B-3, Kulovića 9, tel. (+387) 33 47 12 51, 

fax (+387) 33 44 45 72, bosniahotel@bih.net.ba, 

www.bosniahotels.com. A relic of the old Yugoslav days, 

particularly in terms of the décor, but the staff are friendly 

and attentive, and it is handy for getting almost anywhere in 

Sarajevo on foot. Q 60 rooms (singles €85, doubles €100). 

PTYJHAUILGBKXW 

Dardanija B-3, Radićeva 15, tel. (+387) 33 213 613, 

fax (+387) 33 213 616, dardanija@dardanija.co.ba, 

www.dardanija.co.ba. May very well have been one of 

the top hotels in town during its day, but those days have 

long since passed - picture shiny bedspreads, green floors 

and lots of gold-trimmed furniture. Your choice of rooms is 

also between front-facing ones with street noise or back 

ones with depressing views of an alley. If that description is 

not completely off-putting then the place might not be that 

bad of an option, as the rooms are comfortable enough 

and most are fairly large. Q (singles €62, doubles €104). 

PJAW 

Europa Garni B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33 

23 28 55, europa-garni@smartnet.ba. Sitting a hundred 

metres away from the Astra Garni is the Europa Garni: rooms, 

level of service, prices and comfort are all much the same, 

with the added benefit that the Garni offers Sarajevo’s only 

Moroccan restaurant set across three different floors. 

Intriguing. Q 28 rooms (singles €90, doubles €125). 

PTJHAILGKXW 


Gaj B-3, Skenderija 14, tel. (+387) 33 55 48 05/(+387) 

33 55 48 06, fax (+387) 33 44 52 00, info@hotel-gaj. 

co.ba, www.hotel-gaj.com.ba. Small, modest 12-room 

hotel with a nice garden set ten minutes walk from the centre. 

Basic but comfortable. Q 12 rooms (singles €60, doubles 

€90). PTYJA6UILEGBKXW 

Grand D-1, Muhameda ef. Pandže 7, tel. (+387) 

33 56 31 00, fax (+387) 33 56 32 00, hotelgrand@ 

hotelgrand.com, www.hotelgrand.com. A less than 

inspirational-looking place on the hill behind the train station, 

at first glance it appears a bit behind the times - much like 

the photo of a Concorde hanging in the lobby. But we give 

it credit: the service and accommodation are first rate, 

and they somehow managed to secure the domain name 

hotelgrand.com, which has to count for something. Also, if 

you’re staying over the weekend there’s a 99% chance of 

seeing a wedding party downstairs - crashing it is entirely up 

to you and we take no responsibility for the consequences. Q 

132 rooms (singles €61-76, doubles €95-116, suites €125). 

PJHAULKW 

Safir Jagodića 3, tel. (+387) 33 47 50 40, info@ 

hotelsafir.ba, www.hotelsafir.ba. Down a quiet alley 

only a few minutes’ walk from Baščaršija, Safir is great 

option for budget-conscious business travellers in town 

for longer stays. In a modern building with touches of 

traditional Bosnian architecture, each their eight rooms 

is ‘apartment type’, which essentially means a standard 

double with the addition of a good-sized kitchenette. 

Although the brochure and website mention conference 

facilities, the room in question is quite small and would 

perhaps be suitable for meetings at best. Q 8 rooms 

(singles €50, doubles €72). 

Unica B-3, Hamdije Kresevljakovica 42, tel. (+387) 

33 55 52 25/(+387) 33 55 53 35, fax (+387) 33 

55 52 26, hotelunica@hotmail.com, www.hotelunica.ba. 

At last. Just what Sarajevo needed. Eight 

double rooms and eight single rooms in a well-designed, 

tasteful hotel bang in the middle of Sarajevo, with multilingual 

staff and a nice cocktail bar thrown in. The rooms 

are comfortable with wi-fi connections, flat-screen TVs 

and great beds. It’s about to become the most popular 

hotel in town. Q 16 rooms (singles €75, doubles €100). 

PTJHALGKXW 

Vila Wien B-4, Vladislava Skarica 3, tel. (+387) 33 

23 28 55, fax (+387) 33 23 28 60, europa-garni@ 

smartnet.ba, www.europa-garni.ba. This is a small 

and cosy separate wing of the Europa Garni, with six 

nice but small and newly-renovated rooms in the heart 

of the old Town. Q 6 rooms (singles €70, doubles €80). 

PTJALXW 

Villa Orient B-4, Oprkanj 6, tel. (+387) 33 23 27 02, 

fax (+387) 33 44 10 44, orient@bih.net.ba, www. 

hotel-villa-orient.com. The downside is that for what it 

costs - about €100 per night - the Vila Orient offers rather 

small rooms which are slightly featureless. The upside is that 

it is entirely central, right in the middle of Baščaršija, without 

being too noisy. Q 19 rooms (singles €75, doubles €100). 

PJHAFLBKXW 



Where to stay 

October - November 2009 

19


Budget 

Halvat C-4, Kasima Efendije Dobrače 5, tel. (+387) 33 

237 714/(+387) 61 130 093, fax (+387) 33 237 715, 

halvat@bih.net.ba, halvat.com.ba. We can’t say enough 

good things about this small family-run B&B just around the 

corner from Baščaršija. Mumo and Valida, the husband and 

wife team that runs the place, have been in the business 

for some 15 years and clearly pride themselves on paying 

attention to the smallest of details: we don’t want to ruin any 

future surprises but let’s just say that guests’ birthdays don’t 

go unnoticed. The house itself is incredibly cosy, with seven 

rooms and a large lounge in the basement where breakfast 

is served. Reservations are a must as their reputation keeps 

the place busy year round. Q 6 rooms (singles €46, doubles 

€68, triple €86). Prices are significantly lower from December 

to March. PJARB 

Hecco C-4, Medrese 1, tel. (+387) 33 27 37 30/(+387) 

33 27 37 31, fax (+387) 33 27 37 31, hotel.hecco@ 

gmail.com, www.hotel-hecco.net. Set 500 metres 

above the heart of Baščaršija, Sarajevo’s old Ottoman 

quarter, the Hecco is neither as well-located nor opulent 

as its city-centre cousins, but for fifty euros per night for a 

double, with a bright, spacious and comfortable room with 

cable TV, wireless internet, satisfactory breakfast and a 

lovely espresso first thing, who’s complaining. It’s a bit of 

a hike back after a night out, but the view compensates. 

Q 27 rooms (singles €40, doubles €57, triples €67). 

PTYJHARLGKXW 

Hollywood Dr Pintola 23, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 77 31 

00, fax (+387) 33 77 31 45, info@hotel-hollywood. 

ba, www.hotel-hollywood.ba. A massive hotel and 

conference centre located in the near the airport in Ilidža, 

Hollywood is extremely popular with budget-minded 

business travellers, NGO workers, sports teams and the 

like - and for good reason. Aside from ample conference 

facilities, multiple restaurants and comfortable modern 

rooms, the complex boasts a nearly Olympic-size swimming 

pool, full sports hall, 4-lane bowling alley, wellness centre 

and is right next door to the one of the best water parks 

in the country. A great choice for those who have their 

own transport or don’t mind taking a taxi to the centre 

and back. Q 200 rooms (singles KM 75-95, doubles 

KM 120-140, triples KM 160-180, apartments KM 190). 

PTHARFLEBKDCW 

Hotel Boutique 36 C-4, Safet bega Basagica 

36, tel. (+387) 33 239 490, fax (+387) 33 233 

309, boutique36@gmail.com, http://www.hb36. 

ba/. Boutique 36 one minute from Baščaršija. In 

the most famous and the most attractive part of 

Sarajevo Old Town, this is a newly open hotel, offering 

high quality service, accommodation and relaxation. 

Q (€52 per person). 

Identiko Guest House Halaci 3, tel./fax (+387) 33 

23 33 10, identiko@bih.net.ba. Small simple rooms, 

super-cheap, this makes a handy base from which to explore 

the centre of Sarajevo. Breakfast not included. Q 8 rooms 

(singles €24, doubles €75). 

Italija Pofalicka 7, tel. (+387) 33 65 04 50/(+387) 55 

65 04 85, fax (+387) 33 66 19 38, www.hotelitalia. 

ba. A straightforward hotel which has an extensive range 

of sporting extras, including an indoor swimming-pool and 

a small gym, which partly make up for the distance from 

the city-centre. Q 36 rooms (singles €45, doubles €75). 

TAIFLKXC 

Konak B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 48, tel. (+387) 

33 47 69 00/(+387) 61 53 14 94, info@hotel-konak. 

com, www.hotel-konak.com. This charming little hotel 

was re-opened earlier this year by the newest generation 

of the Resić family to get into the hotel business. While 

the street outside might be a little on the scruffy side, the 

hotel itself has been beautifully furnished in a traditional 

style with solid wood everything, modern amenities and 

a bright airy breakfast room downstairs. The service is 

excellent and the rates have been significantly reduced 

due to the current economic climate, making it a great 

value for the foreseeable future. Definitely recommended. 

Q 9 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, apartment €150). 

PJALBW 

Kovači B-4, C-4, Kovači 12, tel. (+387) 33 57 37 00, 

fax (+387) 33 57 37 01, info@hotelkovaci.com, www. 

hotelkovaci.com. Yet another budget/mid-range option 

in the area immediately north of Baščaršija, Kovači looks 

quite stylish from the outside but the interior is a little too 

Spartan for our tastes. If you’re looking to splash out a bit 

in this part of town, they do offer a large top floor apartment 

with a jacuzzi bath. Q 8 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, 

triple €80, suite €100). JALBW 

Palas Krivajska 1, tel. (+387) 33 72 54 00, fax (+387) 

33 72 54 08, info@palas.com.ba, www.palas.com.ba. 

Bang next-door to the railway and bus station. Simple, but 

cheap and convenient for getting in to town on the tram or 

on foot. Q 53 rooms (singles €40, doubles €60). Breakfast 

included. TALX 

Pansion Stari Grad Bjelina Čikma 4, tel. (+387) 33 23 

98 98, pansion_starigrad@hotmail.com. Located some 

50m from the Sebilj in Baščaršija, this place is comfortable if 

not overwhelming. Some of the single rooms are only slightly 

larger than the beds and/or have bathrooms guaranteed to 

give you bruised elbows, in other words, you may want to 

negotiate for a double if you’re the least bit claustrophobic. 

The aquarium and breakfast terrace are nice additions, 

but the real selling point is use of the adjacent guarded 

car park - a rarity in the city centre - for a small additional 

fee. Q 10 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, triples €65). 

JALBW 

Yıldız C-4, Tahčića Sokak 4, tel. (+387) 33 00 

00 00/(+387) 61 13 97 36, info@hotelyildiz.ba, 

hotelyildiz.ba. Named after a neighbourhood in Istanbul, 

which is appropriate as it occupies a renovated Ottomanstyle 

house just north of Baščaršija, Yıldız has a bit more 

character than most of the nearby competition. We’d like 

it more if the rates were slightly less expensive (perhaps 

acquiring the best phone number in Sarajevo wasn’t cheap). 

Nevertheless it’s a good option for those who fancy the idea 

of staying in an old wooden house but still want WiFi and 

satellite television. Q 7 rooms (singles €40, doubles €50, 

triples €70). JAW 

Hostels 

Lion B-4, Bravadzluk 30, tel. (+387) 33 23 61 37. On 

the edge of Baščaršija. Some rooms don’t have windows 

and most are strangely decorated as though it were a doll’s 

house. No breakfast available. Q (singles €25, doubles 

€50). JAXW 

clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com 


Bosnia, with its beautiful, favourable climate, has a 

fantastic selection of natural produce, in particular fruit 

and vegetables. The city’s three main markets in Ciglane, 

the city centre and Grbavica are well worth a visit, if for no 

other reason than to see the massive seasonal displays 

of cherries, apricots, nectarines, artichokes, avocados, 

raspberries, walnuts, celeriac, new potatoes and almost 

anything else you can think of. Many are just grown in 

kitchen gardens, all are non-GM, and a lot have never seen 

pesticides. The meat is excellent. 

However, this wide variety of raw ingredients does not 

always translate into good food being served in restaurants. 

Much of Bosnian cuisine is traditional, salty, meaty 

and fatty food. Tradition and societal expectation often 

stand in the way of culinary innovation, and too often the 

best one can say about Bosnian food is that it is OK. Most 

people eat at home, and restaurants are reserved for very 

special occasions: below is a selection of those places 

that do better than most. 

Symbol key 


E Live music S Take away 


R Internet L Guarded parking 

O Casino J Old Town location 


B Outside seating V Home delivery 

Asian 

Hot Wok B-2; B-3, Titova 12, tel. (+387) 33 20 33 

22/(+387) 61 17 17 60, info@hotwokcaffe.com. Eat 

mango chicken with fried noodles and sip a large freshly 

squeezed orange juice as you watch the cooks wok up sizzling, 

only mildly-improvised Thai food with inventive names like Hollywood 

Chicks. You’ll sit at high stools and be surrounded by a 

cluster of Bosnian businessmen, international diplomats and 

bureaucrats, or a foursome of Bosnian women on a night out. 

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 8-22). JAXS 

Kineski Restoran B-3, Ismeta Mujezinovića 14, tel. 

(+387) 33 66 41 17, kineski.restoran.sarajevo@gmail. 

com. Opened this past summer to fill the MSG-flavoured void 

left by the closing of the city’s only other Chinese restaurant, 

this imaginatively named place (‘Chinese Restaurant’ in English) 

was still sorting out some of the subtle differences between 

Chinese and Bosnian cuisine when we visited during its first 

week. Aside from that small wrinkle the service is impeccable 

- it always helps to poach experienced professional staff from 

other establishments - and the selection of dishes quite varied: 

Coca Cola chicken anyone? The selection of wine is also impressive. 

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM10-60). ALXS 

Bosnian 

ASDŽ B-4, Mali Čurčiluk 3, tel. (+387) 33 238 500. This 

modern canteen-style place in Baščaršija is great if you want to 

sample a variety of Bosnian dishes without the hassle of sitting 

down for a proper meal in a restaurant. Just point to what looks 

good and specify if you want a small or large portion of it - no need 

to master the menu beforehand or worry about pronunciation. 

QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. (KM 1.50-10). PJBS 


restaurants 

The wine collection at charming Noovi 

Avlija C-3, Sumbula Avde 2, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 83, 

fax (+387) 33 44 42 60, fkarkin@bih.net.ba, www. 

avlija.ba. Meaning ‘courtyard’ in Bosnian, the inside of this 

eclectic, noisy Bosnian restaurant is like a walled garden. To 

start choose fried mushrooms in breadcrumbs or ustipce, 

small deep-fried doughballs served with kajmak, soft 

white cream cheese. Then follow on with fantastic pepper 

steaks with perfect roast potatoes, or muckalicka, spiced 

beef stew with peppers served in a clay pot. QOpen 08:00 

- 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 4-22). TAX 

Buregdžinica Bosna B-4, Bravadžiluk 9. We’ve heard 

this no-nonsense Burek place recommended as far away as 

Slovenia, and based solely on the constant queue waiting 

to get a plate of the piping-hot savoury pastry it’s not 

without good reason. Vegetarians have the option of sirnica 

(cheese), zeljanica (spinach and cheese) or krompiruša 

(potato), and there’s even an air-conditioned dining room 

up the dangerously steep stairs in back. When coming 

from the direction of the Sebilj look for the red basketball 

logo on your left. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (8-12 KM per kilo). 

PJNBS 

Dveri B-4, Prote Bacovica 12, tel. (+387) 33 53 70 20, 

info@dveri.co.ba, www.dveri.co.ba. Beef goulash with 

plums, fabulous home-made bread, vegetable soup served 

with a poached egg, a garden to sit in summer, a toasty 

interior in which to sip rakiya in winter and hospitable Bosnian 

staff speaking perfect English make this small restaurant 

set in a pretty, flower-filled courtyard in Sarajevo’s Old Town 

one of the best choices to eat at for any occasion. QOpen 

09:00 - 23:00. (KM6-18). AX 

Inat Kuća B-5, Veliki Alifakovac 1, tel. (+387) 33 447 

867/(+387) 61 338 177, fax (+387) 33 560 319. Dishes 

are limited but the location is good and the tale of how this 

restaurant came to be where it is, is pure Sarajevo - prevent 

the waiter whisking your menu away and read how the House 

of Spite got its name and position. Specializing in local soups 

and mains, the House rambles upwards with three floors of 

group settings, or tables for two for more intimate dining. 

Factor in the outdoor riverside tables and you have a pleasant 

setting for a traditional Bosnian experience, both culinary and 

cultural. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (KM 10-20). AU 

Autumn 2009 

21

22 restaurants 

Kibe C-4, Vrbanjuša 164, tel. (+387) 33 441 936, www. 

restorankibe.ba. Clinging to the side of the hill a few kilometres 

above Baščaršija, this family-run restaurant has been a 

Sarajevo institution since it opened in 1988. In a beautifully 

converted house with multiple dining areas, the menu contains 

all the Bosnian standards at prices similar to what you’ll find 

in less-inspired settings below, and the food is unanimously 

considered some of the best in the city. Definitely a must visit 

on any trip, just make sure to call ahead for reservations as 

window seats are scarce and demand understandably high. 

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 5-17). 

Lovac B-3; B-4, Petrekijina 24, tel. (+387) 33 66 41 

76/(+387) 61 10 23 31, info@lovac-sarajevo.com, www. 

lovac-sarajevo.com. Occupying a hundred year-old villa on 

the hill above the Cathedral, Lovač (or the Hunter) lives up to 

its name with a menu full of venison, wild boar and other game 

meat dishes, as well as pretty much every Bosnian specialty 

we’ve ever heard of. Appropriately enough the large outdoor 

seating area has a distinct hunting lodge feel to it, while inside 

things are a bit statelier - though a fair amount of mounted 

antlers, horns and heads still adorn the walls. QOpen 08:00 

- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (KM 8 - 36). PJALB 

Park Prinčeva B-5, Iza Hrida 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 27 08, 

fax (+387) 33 53 24 03, www.parkprinceva.ba. You go to sit 

and have a drink on the terrace at Park Prinčeva, set on the side of 

a mountain overlooking Sarajevo, for one reason and one reason 

alone: the view. Especially in summer, it offers the most amazing 

view all the way up the valley, and allows you to see the whole city 

stretched underneath you. The staff are courteous, friendly and 

efficient. The traditional Bosnian food is beyond bland. QOpen 

11:00 - 23:00. (KM 8-22). TALEBX 

Pod Lipom B-4, Prote Bakovica 6, tel. (+387) 33 44 

07 00. On a quiet alley just around the corner from the 

Sebilj but away from most of the tourist traffic, Pod Lipom 

is a quaint traditional Bosnian restaurant with a lengthy 

menu and reasonable prices. There are a lot of hot and cold 

starters and soups to choose from so it’s great for groups 

who want to sample a bit of everything. If you want to get on 

your waiter’s good side ask him about the time Bill Clinton 

stopped by for some Sarajevski sahan. QOpen 09:00 

- 24:00. (6 - 15 KM). JAB 

Urban Grill B-3, Prušćakova 8, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 48, 

ugb@bih.net.ba, www.urbangrill.ba. The Brajlović family 

had been providing high quality meat to other restaurants 

for some 60 years before they finally decided to cut out the 

middle-men and open their own chain of slightly upmarket 

grills. So far they have two locations in Sarajevo, both of which 

are a cut above most of the competition in terms of quality 

and ambience while offering pretty much the same prices. 

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (KM 5 - 15). PJBS 

Željo 1 and 2 B-4, Kundurdžiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 

44 70 00. Sarajevo ‘čevapčiči’ are small, immensely tasty 

grilled spicy sausages, served with spiced flat bread called 

‘somun.’ Traditionally accompanied by a glass of yoghourt, 

they are great at any time of day. Particularly good hangover 

food. Named after one of the city’s two main football clubs, 

Željo does some of the best čevačiči in Bosnia. QOpen 09:00 

- 23:00. (KM 4-7). JBX 

Indian 

Taj Mahal Paromlinska 48a, tel. (+387) 61 27 73 

84, www.tajmahal-sarajevo.com. If you’ve had your fill 

of traditional Bosnian fare or are just looking for something 

different, Sarajevo’s only Indian restaurant is a great option. 

It’s popular among expats and one of our personal favourites 

- we seem to find ourselves here at least a couple times a 

month. They specialise in Tandoori, but pretty much have 

all the standards covered as well as a large selection of 

Nepalese dishes. The location is a bit out of the way if you’re 

not familiar with the city so a taxi is probably a good idea, 

or you can always take advantage of their delivery service. 

QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (KM 9-17). PALS 

International 

4 Sobe Gospode Safije C-3, Cekalusa 61, tel. (+387) 

62 62 28 22, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe. 

ba. ‘Four Rooms of Mrs.Safije’ is the latest venture of the 

owners of Hacienda cocktail bar and Baghdad Café, and 

their interior design flair has struck again. Glamorous, 

dressed-up Sarajevans and foreigners flock to drink Bosnian 

and Croatian wines and eat fusion food on three floors of 

this original Austro-Hungarian house set just outside the 

centre. Themed on the early 1900s love-story between the 

Bosnian Safija and her Austrian lover, dishes that triumph 

on the menu include salmon fillet with hollandaise, risotto 

with prawns and parmesan and chicken marinaded with 

honey and chilli sauce QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€2.50-12). 

PTILX 

Dr Food B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10, tel. (+387) 33 

20 55 51. Some of the best food in town. Prawn salad 

with rocket, grilled tuna steaks, fantastic beef, great 

chips, grilled St.Pierre fish and inventive puddings are 

just some of the reasons why this small, cosy restaurant 

overlooking the River Miljacka works so well. Attentive staff, 

a really good wine list and affordable prices are the others. 

Everything, from the stylish cutlery to the loos seems to be 

just right. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (KM 10-28). 

PTJABXSW 

Noovi Tina Ujevića bb, tel. (+387) 33 22 22 42. A newish 

wine-bar and restaurant, Noovi is situated just opposite 

the British Embassy on a small hill overlooking the centre of 

town. Run as a joint-venture between the staff of I Tri Bicchiere 

wineshop and Dr Food, it is a great place to amble 

along to on a sunny evening, have a bottle of Rioja and enjoy 

a platter of ham and cheese. If you feel like it there is seating 

indoors or out, their pasta and pizzas are well worth a 

try, and the wine-list is beyond extensive. Some of the best 

staff in town. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10). 

PJAB 

Peppers A-2, Zagrebačka 4a, tel. (+387) 33 20 15 

50, restoranbarpeppers@yahoo.com. Set snugly close 

to the Grbavica headquarters of the Office of the High 

Representative, or OHR, Bosnia’s foreign overseer, means that 

this charming, well-run restaurant has an international feel and 

many international clients. The service is slick and fast, and 

dishes such as prawn cocktail, broccoli soup and excellent 

pastas come served up to a background of jazz funk. Good 

beers too. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. (€6-17). PJAS 

Pivnica HS B-4, Franjevačka 15, tel. (+387) 33 49 11 

00, www.sarajevska-pivara.ba. A favourite among tourists 

and well-heeled locals alike, this restaurant attached to the 

Sarajevska Brewery consists of one enormous hall with 

seating on two levels. The menu has just about anything 

you can think of, although house specialties seem to include 

many sausage and veal dishes. Aside from being on the 

expensive side - most mains with a side are around 20 KM 

- it’s also a little too nice for its own good, as the flawless 

décor somewhat compromises the traditional beer hall feel. 

QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (7-40 KM). TJAL 


Pravda B-3, Radićeva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15, 

pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravda.ba. Sarajevo’s 

beautifully designed bar of the moment boasts comfortable 

sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good 

Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Chicken Satay 

or tasty Dalmatian prawns with rocket are €7. QOpen 10:00 

- 24:00. (KM 6-24). TJA6EBX 

To Be or Not to Be Cizmedžluk 5, tel. (+387) 33 23 

32 65. There’s not much space in this friendly den of home 

cooking in Baščaršija, with its two tables on the pavement, 

two downstairs and three upstairs. Which seems to make it 

all the nicer to enjoy steaks with grilled vegetables, sea-bass 

and good pasta as the sound of a Bosnian tin-smith tapping 

away down the street fills the Sarajevo night. QOpen 08:00 

- 24:00. (KM 6-18). JABX 

Vinoteka B-3, Skenderija 12, tel. (+387) 33 21 49 96, 

www.vinoteka.ba. If you’re a visiting celebrity, Bosnian politician, 

foreign diplomat, member of the Sarajevo glitterati or just 

somebody who wants to have a fantastic meal with good wine 

in a beautifully-designed restaurant, you go to Vinoteka. Since 

opening in 2003 it’s been a prime contender for best restaurant 

in town. Set on the south side of the river on three floors, 

downstairs is a cosy wine-bar, while upstairs on two floors 

is the full restaurant experience. Choose from an extensive 

and varied menu: favourites such as carrot cream soup with 

shrimps, turkey breast with lime and honey, and Café de Paris 

Steak followed by tiramisu are all excellent. Over 100 wines from 

Bosnia and abroad make the meal sing. Unmissable. QOpen 

12:00 - 24:00. (10-40 KM). PTJALGX 

Mexican 

Caballero B-3; C-3, Džidžikova 3, tel. (+387) 33 21 

02 66. This popular Mexican restaurant, situated up the 

hill from BBI near the French and Austrian embassies, 


restaurants 

serves up large portions of fairly decent Tex-Mex standards 

like tostadas, burritos and enchiladas, as well as many 

vegetarian options and some vaguely Mexican-sounding 

meat dishes that all come with a slight Bosnian twist. The 

large covered terrace built to resemble some kind of rustic 

Latin American beach bar is an atmospheric place to enjoy 

an evening Corona or tequila cocktail along with a starter or 

two. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (KM 7-20). 

TJALEBS 

Vegetarian 

Karuzo B-3; B-4, Dženetića Čikma bb, tel. (+387) 33 

44 46 47/(+387) 63 89 37 93, www.karuzorestaurant. 

com. Quirky doesn’t even begin to describe this place. 

The tiny restaurant behind Markale is the creation of Saša 

Obućina: owner, host, chef, waiter and DJ. Outfitted to resemble 

a boat and named after an Italian opera singer, Karuzo 

was the first vegetarian restaurant in Sarajevo, and the menu 

is a somewhat schizophrenic medley combining vegetarian, 

macrobiotic and Mediterranean dishes, along with sushi. The 

overall experience of eating here has always reminded us of 

going to your uncle’s house for dinner - only if your uncle was 

a great cook and vaguely resembled Steven Segal. QOpen 

12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 

(KM 6 - 35). JABS 

Vegehana B-2; B-3, Kemal-begova 4, tel. (+387) 61 59 21 

23, catering@vegehana.com, vegehana.com. Located on a 

quiet residential side-street off of Alipašina, this borderline sacreligious 

vegetarian oasis in the middle of the carnivore’s paradise 

that is Sarajevo (along with the rest of Bosnia) caters to a mixed 

crowd of trendy students and health conscious professionals. 

The daily special is a great value offering six different dishes 

(soup, main, two sides, salad and a pastry) for KM10 - you can 

see the current week’s selection by clicking ‘Jelovnik’ on their 

website. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. (3-10 KM). JAS 

Autumn 2009 

23

24 CafÉs 

Reconstructed music pavillion in Atmejdan Park 

Symbol key 








Caffe del O’mar B-3, Trg Sarajeva (BBI Centar), tel. 

(+387) 33 56 99 99. A sprawling café that occupies a 

good chunk of the ground floor at the recently opened 

BBI shopping centre, it entices shoppers to take a load 

off with views of the centre’s six-floor atrium. There’s also 

additional seating out on the main square if you prefer 

some fresh air or the kids would just like to splash around 

in the nearby fountain. They do a variety of sandwiches 

and cakes, and also have some of the best shakes in 

town. The coffee’s not bad either. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. 

PTJAUB 

Gradska Kafana Stari Grad B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 

bb. This old school no-frills café is sandwiched between 

Baščaršija and the Obala along the river. Its large sprawling 

terrace is shaded courtesy of several ancient trees and 

there’s usually a mild breeze blowing up off the river, making 

it an ideal place for a coffee on sweltering summer days. 

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. J6NB 

Music Pavillion Café B-4, Atmejdan Park. By far 

the best of the lot of cafés in At Mejdan Park along the 

southern bank of the river, it’s also one of our favourites 

in the entire city. Housed in and around a beautiful wooden 

bandstand that was originally built in 1913 by the Austro- 

Hungarians and destroyed during WWII, it was completely 

restored in 2004 (ironically with funding from the Austrian 

government) and is one of the more unique café experiences 

in Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 

J6NB 

Torte i to Café A-1, Grbavička 6, tel. (+387) 61 13 

49 88, www.torte-i-to.ba. One of this cafe’s many selling 

points is that it’s the only non-smoking café we know of 

in Sarajevo. Aside from its fresh air, it’s also known for 

bringing some excellent cheesecake to town. Among their 

various other cakes, pastries and sweets the carrot cake 

is our personal favourite, and the selection of coffee is as 

good as anywhere else in town. The new branch on the top 

of the BBI shopping centre has a smoking terrace, and 

a great view of central Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 

PJABS 

Vatra B-4, Ferhadija 4, tel. (+387) 33 222 244, info@ 

vatra.ba, http://www.vatra.ba. This trendy café takes its 

name from Sarajevo’s Eternal Flame (Vječna Vatra), which 

burns only a few metres away in memory of the partisans 

who died during World War II. The café itself is a much less 

sombre affair, and we can’t remember ever seeing it not 

packed with a lively mix of people. The menu has just about 

enough cakes, ice creams and snacks to try something 

different each day of the year - we can’t get enough of the 

bite sized sandwiches - and fire-related quotes to keep you 

busy while you’re waiting. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 


A night out in Sarajevo comes no better than an elongated 

wander through the city’s bar scene, where you will find 

people drinking coffee, beers, brandies, cocktails, wine, 

juices…or just mineral water. Sarajevo is very see-and-beseen, 

busy, and the city’s notoriously beautiful womenfolk 

dress accordingly. A handy rule-of-thumb is to assume 

that a waiter will find you almost as soon as you arrive 

in an establishment: do not order your drinks at the bar. 

Prices are almost the same everywhere, so think of 

paying about €2 for a large half-litre of beer, about €3-5 

for a cocktail, and somewhere in between for wine. It’s 

well worth trying the local brandies, made from plums 

(slivovitz), grapes(rakiya), walnuts (orahovaca), cherries 

(visnavaca,) and apricots (kajsija). 

Bosnia has a healthy drinking culture, and loud, affable, 

friendly behaviour is the norm. Particularly since the war, 

this is a city that has been it, seen it and done it, so there 

is nothing you can do that has not been done or seen 

before. 

Symbol key 








Bars 

Baghdad B-4, Bazardzani 4, tel. (+387) 33 53 72 

18/(+387) 33 44 19 18, info@placetobe.ba, www. 

placetobe.ba. With its tasselled cushions, ornatelydecorated 

hanging glass lamps, blue and white tiles and 

conspicuously Moorish feel, this backstreet cocktail bar in 

Baščaršija has become very much in with Sarajevo’s twentysomething 

models, designers and party people. Extremely 

comfortable. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JBXW 

Barhana B-4, Djulagina Cikma 8, tel. (+387) 33 36 

54 08/(+387) 33 44 77 27, info@barhana.ba, www. 

barhana.ba. Set in a cobbled street in Baščaršija, this 

is one of the top five bars in the whole city. The key to its 

success: good music, good-looking and cool customers, 

mainly Bosnian, easily-affordable drinks, friendly service 

and the best of eighties music. It suffices to say that 

Jasmina Mameledzija, Sarajevo’s uber-cool and glamorous 

original female DJ, names it as one of her favourite bars. 

Go along to see why. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 

TJABKX 

Barka B-4, Kundurdžiluk 10, tel. (+387) 33 537 273, 

www.clubbarka.ba. Walk in to Barka and you’d think the 

Dalmatian coast had just washed up in downtown Sarajevo. 

The bar is made from part of an old fishing-boat, nautical 

and maritime impedimenta hang from the ceilings and walls, 

and there’s a faint feeling of being on a permanent holiday. 

Efficient staff zip between the busy downstairs and the 

quieter snogging lounge upstairs. A garden in summer draws 

in the Bosnian diaspora crowd home on holiday. QOpen 

08:00 - 03:00. JBX 


Rock that fiddle! 

nightlife 

Central Café B-4, Strosmajerova 1, tel. (+387) 33 20 

04 42, www.centralcafe.co.ba. If you’re young, Bosnian, 

female, probably beautiful and have got a few marks in the 

pocket of your hotpants or in your faux-designer handbag, 

on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night you WILL be seen 

at Central Café. You’ll be drinking Nescafe, cherry-juice or 

possibly Bambus, which is Coca-Cola mixed with red wine. 

You’ll be texting your friends, dancing and catching the 

eye of a lot of hair-gelled, metrosexually-dressed Bosnian 

males. If, however, you are a visitor to Sarajevo it’s simply 

great fun to go along and watch the action. QOpen 08:00 

- 03:00. JABX 

Delikatesna Radnja B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10, 

tel. (+387) 33 20 88 55, www.delikatesnaradnja. 

ba. On the edge of the Miljacka, this popular café boasts 

good wireless internet, nice sandwiches, draft beer and 

a selection of teas and coffees. At weekends, or any time 

when it’s sunny, the outside seating area is packed with a 

more affluent-looking, stylish crowd, cars double parked, 

Sarajevo’s svelte twenty-something women drinking coffee 

and mingling in the sun. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 

- 24:00. PTJABKXW 

Hacienda B-4, Bazardzani 3, tel. (+387) 33 44 19 

18, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe.ba. Sarajevo’s 

original cocktail bar, this lavish Mexican-themed enterprise 

in the centre of Baščaršija is a visual and relaxing retreat 

reminiscent of Seville or Guadalajara. Great cocktails such 

as Caipirinhas and Margaritas start at €4, as nocturnal 

Sarajevo descends to listen to Latin Jazz, Salsa and Cuban 

funk, see and be seen, dance and drink. QOpen 10:00 

- 04:00. JAEBKXW 

Havana B-4, Kundurdžiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 44 70 00. 

With its charming staff, high tile-topped tables with wroughtiron 

stools, and the floor-length glass windows open wide, 

this is a perfect place to watch Sarajevo pass by while you 

sip a beer or an espresso. There’s a bar in every town in the 

world that is themed on that hackneyed old cliché, Cuba, and 

this is it. But done better than most. Intriguing internal décor, 

including a fake wall that is actually a large mirror. QOpen 

09:00 - 01:30. JBX 

Jež Club B-4, Zelenih Beretki 14, tel. (+387) 33 

650 312, info@jez.ba, www.jez.ba. Jež is a club, bar, 

restaurant and summer garden all in one. Come here to enjoy 

traditional live music ‘tamburasi’ (a band playing tamburas - a 

small stringed guitar) or ‘trubaci’ (a band playing trumpets) 

and for the ladies there are free cocktails available on 

Saturdays. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. 

Autumn 2009 

25

26 nightlife 

Someone came to party 

Kino Bosna B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipašina 19. This 

theatre-cum-bar is ground zero for Sarajevo’s alternative 

crowd and home to the cheapest beer in town. The bar is 

essentially just the lobby of an old cinema - which still shows 

a film every once and while and hosts the odd thrash/metal/ 

hardcore concert - but most nights the place is packed and 

the party is forced to spread outside onto the terrace, front 

steps and street. In recent years it’s made its way onto the 

tourist map, so you probably won’t be the only foreigner there. 

QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. J6ENBS 

L.A. C-2, Merhemića Trg 14, tel. (+387) 61 432 

184/(+387) 61 376 009. L.A. is a new cocktail bar and 

organizes events and fashion shows worthy of attention. 

Summer time out in the big garden is crowded and lively. 

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PEX 

Marquee B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 6, tel. (+387) 61 132 

117, info@ilijas.net, www.marquee.net.tf. Legend has it 

that Marquee never closes till the last customer passes out. 

You know you’ve had a premium night-out in Sarajevo when 

you end up in Marquee, with its rock memorabilia, chatty, 

friendly staff and the most-grafittied toilets in south-eastern 

Europe. Bottled beers and cocktails flow, while a mixture of 

leathery old rockers, gorgeous Sarajevo über-babes, mindbogglingly 

drunk EU peacekeepers and students happily rub 

shoulders. Most of them will have forgotten the following day 

that they went to Marquee at all. Fantastic. QOpen 00:00 

- 24:00. JX 

Maršal Tito Bihacka 19, tel. (+387) 61 92 30 42. 

This used to be a great, very individual bar themed on the 

late Marshal Tito, set on the edge of the river in Hrasno a 

couple of kilometres outside the centre of town. Now it’s 

moved to a new site behind the National Museum, with a 

huge outdoor seating area and a collection of machine-guns 

displayed on the walls. To find it, just look for the disused 

tanks and abandoned Mi-17 Helicopter gunship on the grass 

behind the National Museum. It’s next to them. QOpen 

10:00 - 24:00. 

Mash B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20/I, tel. (+387) 33 48 

90 33/(+387) 33 205 490. Much of Sarajevo’s charm 

is that many of its attractions are not apparent, or even 

hidden. Were it not for the noise coming from its location on 

the first-floor terrace of a nondescript tower-block next to 

The National Theatre, you could easily miss this hip, stylish 

bar, with seats outside on a terrace. Popular with a younger 

crowd, it is often refurbished. Expect it to look like the interior 

of a ocean-liner, a spaceship or a drawing-room. QOpen 

09:00 - 24:00. JBX 

Nostalgija Mukevita 10. Like name, like bar. Post-war 

melancholia and fond memories of better days seem to 

hang over this tiny, somehow charming establishment 

set in an alley just off Ferhadija. The owner and barman’s 

an old Sarajevo DJ and soldier of note, the clientele a 

variety of semi-pickled Sarajevo regulars who float on 

the lesser fringes of the city’s artistic community. Fun, 

but not exactly lively. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. 

Opera B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 25, tel. (+387) 

61 156 943, f ax (+387) 33 221 940, inf o@ 

caffebaropera.ba, www.caffebaropera.ba. Located 

opposite Mash bar, Opera’s high stools and tall tables 

pull in a twenty-and-thirty something crowd, with good 

cocktails and slick service, and occasional live music. 

The back room is filled with low-slung sofas, popular with 

younger couples and teenagers on dates, all of whom tend 

to live at home with their parents. They sip warm Nescafé 

and fruit juices and snog their way contentedly through 

the afternoon and early evening. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. 

JBX 

Pravda B-3, Radićeva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15, 

pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravdasarajevo. 

com. Sarajevo’s beauti fully designed bar of the 

moment boasts comfortable sofas and high stools 

on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and 

Argentinian wines and snacks. Spot Bosnian President 

Haris Silajdzic on sofas next to Bosnian and Serb 

models and designers, international diplomats and 

local celebrities. Great fun. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 

JA6EBX 

Ribica B-3, Kaptol 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 53 69. 

Meaning ‘little fish,’ this is the most original bar in 

Sarajevo. Opera, theatre and concert posters line 

the walls, customers like Džejla Glavović, Bosnia’s 

supermodel face of Ralph Lauren, sip coffee and beers, 

comfortable stools and plush banquettes with gilded 

mirrors bring to mind a cross between a mini-brasserie 

from Paris, a Viennese coffee house and a bar. Eccentric 

owner Slobodan plays country rock, folk and blues from 

a 13,000-strong song collection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. 

JBX 

Casinos 

Coloseum Club A-2, Terezije bb (KSC Skenderija), 

tel. (+387) 33 250 860/(+387) 33 250 880, fax 

(+387) 33 250 861, coloseum@hit-bih.com.ba, 

www.coloseum-club.com. Entertainment center Coloseum 

offers relaxed socializing, concerts, entertaining 

events and top enjoyment. In the Arena Restaurant you 

can enjoy a romantic dinner, numerous concerts by top 

local artsits, theatre plays, fashion shows and dance 

performances. There’s also a casio with table games 

and slot machines and a large conference room for 

business events and meetings. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 

POJHAULEBKX 


Clubs 

Aqua Disco Mali Kiseljak 8, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 

625 500. A big-stage disco with DJs and live music. It’s 

part of a swimming-pool complex, where some like to mix, 

swimming and dancing. Great for the summer time! Q 

PEBXC 

Buddha Bar B-3, Radićeva 10, tel. (+387) 61 172 

894, dandza@info.ba. Dancing and drinking club with 

great selection of seventies and eighties music and friendly 

bar-staff. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. JX 

Fis B-3, Musala bb, tel. (+387) 33 21 65 19, info@ 

bock.ba, www.bock.ba. Compact dancing club with black 

and white interior décor and a hedonistic, engagingly chaotic 

Bosnian clientele. Free entry. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. For 

more info visit: www.myspace.com/bocksarajevo. EX 

The Club B-3, Maršala Tito 7, tel. (+387) 33 550 

550/(+387) 33 208 288, fax (+387) 33 208 288, 

theclub.sarajevo@gmail.com, www.theclub.ba. Large, 

classy nightclub with live music, a good restaurant and 

fantastic service. Free entry. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Drinks 

from KM 3-6. PAEBKX 

Pubs 

Celtic Pub B-4, Ferhadija 12 (pasaž), tel. (+387) 61 

712 985/(+387) 61 916 565. One of the only urban 

hangouts in Sarajevo. In Celtic Pub you will feel the traditional 

Celtic spirit of the Bosnian way that guarantees a special 

pleasure for every guest. Try out the large selection of 

whiskies they have on offer, let alone the selection of beer 


nightlife 

and other beveragesof good quality. When there is a live 

band, it’s especially good fun! QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. 

Cheers B-4, Muvekita 4, tel. (+387) 62 476 476/(+387) 

62 622 210, denis_stojnec@hotmail.de. A great place 

to start a night out. The wood and brick interior and 

excellent service provide an environment for enjoyment 

with your friends and collegues. They offer a wide choice 

of beer, whiskeys, and alcoholic beverages, with quality live 

music and themed entertainment. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00. 

PJEK 

City Pub B-4, Despiceva bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 789, 

www.citypub.co.ba. Sarajevo’s most efficient waiters 

make everybody welcome at this jolly, popular city-centre 

pub, from uber-pretty university girls, tourists, off-duty 

European peacekeepers, resident internationals, Bosnian 

businessmen, models and artists. A resident DJ turns out 

everything from David Bowie to The Beach Boys to FatBoy 

Slim. A half-litre of Sarajevsko or Tuborg will set you back 

€1.5, cocktails €3. Boisterous. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. 

YABX 

Guinness Pub B-4, Ferhadija 28, tel. (+387) 61 72 

22 60. At first appearance this joint looks more like an 

alleyway with a makeshift bar at the end of it than a proper 

pub, but there are actually several sprawling cellar-type 

rooms downstairs and the place would be pleasant enough 

if not for the excruciatingly bad vocal techno music they tend 

to blast. However, it’s impossible to recommend a place 

called Guinness Pub when - and we can’t stress this enough 

- they don’t have any Guinness! No draught, no bottles, no 

cans, nothing. Simply unforgiveable. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. 

PJAEB 

Autumn 2009 

27

28 What to see 

Downtown Sarajevo nestled amongst the rolling hills 

One of the beauties of Sarajevo is that it is small, making 

it easy to orientate yourself and start feeling at home as 

soon as you arrive. We make a few suggestions below 

about things to see and do in and around town, but you’ll 

quickly realise how much of the pleasure in a visit to Sarajevo 

is gained by simply wandering around and having a 

look at the wealth of interesting sights that lie around you. 

Walk down the boulevard called Vilsonovo Setaliste under 

the lime trees and watch the river Miljacka at dusk. Entrancing. 

The best way to get there is to take a taxi to the 

Vrbanja Bridge, and walk along the north side of the river 

all the way to Grbavica. 

There has been much reconstruction and repairing done in 

recent years and the physical scars of the war are becoming 

less and less visible. But the emotional ones remain 

for many: go to any of the three huge cemeteries in Ciglane 

and notice how many of the graves are dated between 

1992-1995. Sit and enjoy the peace and quiet and reflect 

on how good ones’ lot in life actually is. The best way to 

get there is to walk from Marshal Tito away from the Eternal 

Flame in the city centre, follow the tram-lines, and turn 

right up Alipašina after about a kilometre. The cemeteries 

will be laid out on your right after a ten-minute walk. 

Take a taxi or tram out to Ilidža and walk down the avenue 

under the plane trees that leads to the hot springs. Take 

care not to get run over by the horses and carriages clop- 

ping along, filled with sightseers enjoying the ride. Once 

you get back to the riverside, have coffee on the terrace 

at Café Prestige. If you’re feeling slightly more energetic, 

stroll along the Miljacka to Kozja Ćuprija (Goat Bridge), 

an Ottoman-era structure where trading caravans once 

crossed and local pilgrims set off for Mecca. The bridge 

itself is an impressive structure and the more romantically-minded 

visitor will get a kick out of imagining the 

people, pack animals and products that have traversed 

it over the centuries. The easy flat walk along the river 

makes for a pleasant morning or afternoon excursion and, 

if you need to revive yourself for the wander back to town, 

you can get a coffee or cool drink at the nearby café. Just 

follow the riverside path, keeping the water to your right on 

your way out to the bridge, and you can’t go wrong. Hire a 

car or take a taxi and drive up to Mount Bjelašnica outside 

Sarajevo. The route takes you up Mount Igman where wartime 

mines still lurk in the forests at the side of the road. 

At Bjelašnica have lunch at the Srebrna Lisica restaurant 

- the name means ‘Silver Fox’ - and watch the fantastic 

mountain scenery and the ski slopes where some of the 

1984 Olympic events were held. 

No weekend in Sarajevo or visit to Bosnia would be 

complete without taking a 45-minute drive to the beautiful 

mountain forests and countryside of Romanija, which lies 

outside the town of Sokolac north-east of Sarajevo. Don’t 

forget to visit Sokolac itself: a visit to Café Victoria is a 

must. A hidden treat. 


Galleries 

National Gallery of BiH B-4, Zelenih Beretki 8, 

tel. (+387) 33 26 65 50. Located near the Orthodox 

Cathedral, the nation’s national gallery provides a fine 

introduction to the eclectic work of Bosnia’s artists, both 

contemporary and those representing the country’s rich 

artistic traditions from the past. Photography, sculpture, 

paintings and installations are all represented in a 

collection that has been curated around color themes and 

schemes. Entry to the gallery is free but some coins or a 

note dropped into the collection boxes dotted throughout 

will help the gallery continue to operate, and also acquire 

and exhibit the artworks of a country well-known for its 

artists. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tue-Sat 

12:00-20:00, closed Sun & Mon 

Museums 

Brusa Bezistan B-4, Baščaršija, tel. (+387) 33 

239 590, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. This Ottomanera 

covered market with its six large domes is one of 

Baščaršija’s most recognisable buildings. Designed by 

Rustem Pasha, Grand Vizier to Suleiman the Great, in 

1551 the structure long served as the city’s centre of 

trade and commerce. It was heavily damaged during the 

siege, but has since been restored and today it’s part 

of the Museum of Sarajevo with a permanent exhibition 

spanning all the way from antiquity through to the end of 

the Austro-Hungarian empire. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 

10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 

Despić House (Despića Kuća) B-4, Despićeva 

2, tel. (+387) 33 475 740, www.muzejsarajeva.ba. 

Originally built during the 17th century, the house belonged 

to a wealthy Orthodox family of traders and art patrons 

who are credited with organising Sarajevo’s first theatre 

performances. Nowadays the quaint pink and white building 

along Obala Kulina Bana is part of the Museum of Sarajevo 

and serves as a well-preserved cultural museum whose 

friendly staff seem more than happy to give impromptu 

history lesson or even tours. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 

10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 

Historical Museum of BiH B-1; B-2, Zmaja od 

Bosne 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 04 18, histmuz@bih.net. 

ba. It is horribly ironic but also authentic that a museum 

such as this, badly damaged during the siege, should now 

house the permanent exhibtion ‘Surrounded Sarajevo’ 

which looks at the impact of the nearly four years of 

war on the city’s citizens.Downstairs is an exhibition on 

the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina from the earliest 

recorded mentions through to the Communist era but it 

is the upstairs that is most likely to attract and repel, 

move and educate the visitor to Sarajevo. Here, in a 

non-partisan or judgemental fashion, the story of the 

siege is told through photographs and artefacts, from 

hand-made heating, cooking and fighting implements 

to aid items that came in from abroad. Most harrowing 

perhaps are the images of and by children, trying to live 

a normal childhood in the most abnormal of conditions 

- few visitors could fail to be moved by the bloodstained 

school satchels and workbooks that are the legacy of a 

shell-strike on a lesson in progress. Like many cultural 

institutions in BiH the museum struggles for funds so the 

modest 4 KM entry fee you pay will do a little to help and 

in return provide an experience you are not likely to forget. 

Permanent Exhibits: ‘Sarajevo under Siege, B&H Through 

Centuries’. Q Tue-Fri 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00, 

closed Mon 4 KM. 


What to see 

National Museum B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 3, tel. 

(+387) 33 66 80 26/(+387) 33 66 80 27, fax (+387) 

33 26 27 10, z.muzej@zemaljskimuzej.ba, www. 

zemaljskimuzej.ba. Located next to the Historical Museum 

and old-fashioned in the nicest possible way, the National 

Museum covers a lot of ground in the three buildings open 

to the public. Permanent exhibitions examine the life and 

history of Bosnia’s inhabitants - animal, vegetable and 

mineral - under the Departments of Archaeology, Ethnology 

and Natural History. The oldest cultural institution in BiH, 

the museum has its fair share of dioramas and insects in 

cases but these seem to add to its charm. And, temporary 

exhibitions such as the one on hand-made Bosnian women’s 

shirts that was showing at the time of writing demonstrate 

that the museum is also able to mount contemporary, 

atmospheric and well thought out exhibitions that would not 

be out of place in any of the world’s leading institutions. When 

you add in treasures such as some beautiful Roman mosaics 

and the world famous 14th century Sarajevo Haggadah you 

have a museum well worth a visit and where your small entry 

fee (5 KM) will help to keep it operating. If the stuffed bears 

and skewered bugs start to get to you, escape out into the 

Botanical Gardens where the hundreds of trees and other 

plants from around the globe provide a living, breathing lung 

in the centre of the complex. Q Tue-Fri 10:00-15:00, Sun 

10:00-14:00, closed Mon & Sat Admission: 5 KM. 

Around Sarajevo 

Lukomir The inhabitants of Lukomir, a stone built 

village on the slopes of Bjelasnica mountain, live the 

high life - located at nearly 1500 metres the town 

is the highest inhabited settlement in Bosnia. Cut 

off for much of the winter, Lukomir boasts a newly 

built lodge for those wanting to spend a few days 

exploring nearby sights such as the 800-metre deep 

Rakitnica Canyon and the Studeno Polje Valley. But it 

is age that makes Lukomir of most interest, for here 

you can get a glimpse into life as it was largely lived 

hundreds of years ago. Situated about 90 minutes 

drive away from Sarajevo, Lukomir can be reached 

by car, organised tour or bus. 

Visoko Pyramids A worldwide jury of archaeologists 

is still out when it comes to the question of whether 

these large mounds of mystery in the countryside some 

30km north of Sarajevo were made by the hands of man 

or constructed by mother nature - although nature is 

currently dominating the debate. Either way, the Visoko 

pyramids make for an interesting day trip. Visoko means 

‘high place’ and visitors can enjoy the alpine scenery of 

the region while pondering the pyramid puzzle. 

Autumn 2009 

29


Sarajevo Museum 1878-1918 B-4, Zelenih Beretki 

1, tel. (+387) 33 533 288, info@muzejsarajeva.ba, 

www.muzejsarajeva.ba. Located on the spot where 

Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand 

- the heir the Austro-Hungarian throne and namesake 

of at least one modestly successful Scottish rock band 

- which of course led to a declaration of war on Serbia 

and the beginning of World War I. Opened in 2007 after 

extensive renovations, the well-designed, visitor-friendly 

museum details the years of Austro-Hungarian rule in 

Sarajevo and the effects it had on the city, from political 

and administrative changes to art and architecture, and 

everything in between. Q Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 

10:00-15:00, Closed Sun. From 15 Oct - 14 Apr closes at 

16:00 on weekdays. 

Tunnel Museum Tuneli 1, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 33 62 

85 91. It might be small, but it’s definitely sincere - few 

museums move visitors to tears but the Tunnel Museum 

packs a powerful punch. Dug during the war, the tunnel 

linked the besieged city to the free zone beyond the airport, 

providing a life and supply line through which passed the 

aged and the injured, food and fuel, soldiers and cigarettes. 

Today, only about 20 metres of the original 700 metre length 

is accessible but even so crouching your way through the dim, 

dank passage gives a tiny taste of how a full-on crossing may 

have felt. The museum proper is inside one of the two houses 

which provided the entry/exit points. In addition to wartime 

memorabilia, visitors can view video footage of the siege 

and the tunnel’s construction and operation. Usually the 

video plays to a pin-drop silence interrupted only by intakes 

of breath as visitors watch shells shoot across the Sarajevo 

sky and slam into apartment blocks, the National Library 

ablaze, and soldiers and civilians alike making their way 

through this dirt and timber lifesaver. Moving, memorable, 

not to be missed. 

Parks 

Vrelo Bosne Ilidža. A lush green oasis at the source of 

the River Bosne, the park may only be 12km southwest 

of the city centre in the suburb of Ilidža, but it’s a world 

away from the hustle and bustle of Sarajevo. Even without 

the urban contrast it’s quite an idyllic place with swans, 

waterfalls, Austro-Hungarian palaces and horse-drawn 

carriages all competing for attention, and if you’re there on 

a Saturday you’re more likely than not to see at least one 

wedding party. It’s easily combined with a trip to the Tunnel 

Museum, and there are several outdoor cafés selling drinks 

and lights snacks. Catholic Cathedral 

Sights 

Avaz Tower B-1; B-2; C-2, Tesanjska 24b. It’s a case 

of ‘I can see my hotel from up here’ when you are standing 

on the observation deck of the Avaz Twist Tower. Sarajevo is 

quite a sight when viewed from 172 metres up the ‘twister’ 

as this column of smoky blue glass is known. Situated near 

the train station in Marin Dvor, and that’s enough directions 

as it’s hard to miss, the lookout floor, with both indoor and 

outdoor areas, provides stunning views of the city below and 

the mountains fading off in the distance. One floor down is a 

cafe-bar where you can drink in a hot or cold beverage with 

the view. Open every day from 8:00 until 23:00 the tower 

offers a unique twist on seeing Sarajevo and it only costs a 

mark to take the fast trip to the top. 

Baščaršija B-5; B-4, . Get used to pronouncing the name 

Baščaršija (Bosh-CHAR-shee-ya) as this mouthful of letters 

is not only the heart and soul of Sarajevo and a striking 

reminder of its Ottoman past, but also home to - or at least 

the point of reference for - a majority of the city’s hotels, 

restaurants, sights and nightspots. While the area was the 

centre of trade and commerce during the Ottoman’s lengthy 

rule (the name itself means central market in English), 

nowadays its rebuilt lanes are packed with a mix of locals, 

independent travellers and tour groups virtually around 

the clock: eating, shopping, drinking or just soaking up the 

atmosphere during an evening stroll. 

Catholic Cathedral (Katedrala Srca Isusova) 

B-4, Ferhadija bb. The Cathedral of Jesus’ Heart is the 

largest church in the country, and an impressive fixture of 

Sarajevo’s skyline. Well restored after being heavily damaged 

in the war, it was built in 1889 by Josip Vancas, the same 

architect who designed the post office. Outside, the steps 

provide a popular meeting and resting place. Inside, with 

the pastel blue and cream walls and some beautiful stained 

glass, busy Ferhadija seems a hundred miles and a hundred 

years away. The sense of peace so often found in places of 

worship permeates the cathedral so if you enter make sure 

your cell phone is firmly switched to ‘off’. 

Eternal Flame B-3, Maršala Tita. At the junction of 

Ferhadija and Marsala Titova streets, the Eternal Flame 

and cupola behind it commemorates the partisans who 

fought in WWII. It’s nice, and in a focal part of town, but it 

needs a brush-and-scrub, a bit of doing-up and a couple 

of smartly-uniformed police officers on guard duty to 

give tough and short shrift to the tedious Roma children 

that beg nearby. 


Ghazi Husrev-beg 

Ghazi Husrev-beg B-4, Veliki Saraći, tel. (+387) 

33 53 43 75, vakuf-gazi@lsinter.net, www.vakufgazi.ba. 

The Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque was built by the 

famous Ottoman architect Mirnar Sinan and is considered 

to be one of the most important Islamic buildings in 

Bosnia. Gazi Husrev-beg had it constructed by the 

Persian architect in an early Istanbul style in 1531. The 

45m-high minaret towers over the 26m-high dome and 

the surrounding area. The grounds include an abdest 

hana, or washing room, a wooden sadrvan (fountain), a 

mekteb, or primary school, and a muvekithana, or prayer 

caller’s home. To the left are two elaborate 16th century 

buildings. The large red house in the enclosed garden 

behind the Careva mosque was the official residence of 

the Ottoman rulers of Bosnia, and is also the place where 

the heavily wounded Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his 

wife were brought, and died, after they had been shot by 

Gavrilo Princip in 1914. 

Jewish Cemetary A-4. Located on the front-line during 

the war this historic cemetery was severely damaged 

during that time and now faces an ever-present threat 

from landslides due to its steep hillside location. Ongoing 

rescue and restoration work has seen some of the 3800+ 

tombstones repaired but much remains to be done and 

about 95% of the stones are still damaged. On the site, 

located in the Kovačići-Debelo Brdo area and not far above 

the transit road, visitors can wander through one of the 

largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. Containing graves 

from the 16th century onwards, the cemetery is an integral 

part of Jewish history in the region and an atmospheric 

and interesting place for the casual visitor though those 

wandering through should be aware that the site is in 

poor condition and be careful of both the gravestones and 


What to see 

monuments and their own safety. Also on the site are a 

chapel, a fountain and several monuments dedicated to 

the victims of fascism. Though it can be walked to and 

one can get relatively close by public transport, a taxi 

might be the easiest way for visitors who don’t fancy the 

steep uphill climb. 

Jewish Museum B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije bb, 

tel. (+387) 33 21 55 32/(+387) 33 53 56 88, fax 

(+387) 33 47 57 49, kontakt@muzejsarajeva.ba, 

www.muzejsarajeva.ba. The bare stone walls and timber 

floors of this museum, located in a Sarajevo synagogue 

built in 1581, provide an aesthetically pleasing space for a 

small but well designed and laid out museum dedicated to 

the city’s long Jewish history. Along with religious artifacts 

the museum displays personal and professional objects 

associated with notable local writers, artists, composers 

and humanitarian workers. On the upper floor the displays 

turn their attention to one of the darkest periods in 

human history. The 12000 Jewish Bosnian victims of the 

Holocaust are commemorated in a large book bearing 

their names while photographs, documents and items 

such as concentration camp clothing provide the ‘faces’ 

behind these names and a testament to their suffering and 

the Jewish community’s ultimate survival. QOpen 10:00 

- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. 

Latin Bridge B-4, Obala Kulina Bana. The name 

Latinska Ćuprija may not mean much to the casual visitor 

to Sarajevo but mention ‘Franz Ferdinand’ and ‘World War 

I’ to anyone who did modern history in high school and the 

penny will drop. Dating from 1798 the structure is a fine 

example of Ottoman bridge design in itself, but that’s not 

why it is world-famous. Latinska Ćuprija is best-known as 

the place where the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke 

Franz Ferdinand, and his pregnant wife were assassinated 

on 28 June 1914 by a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Gavrilo 

Princip. Beyond a plaque at the site and a small museum 

nearby little fuss is made of its notoriety but standing here 

you are at the place where Princip fired his pistol and where 

the rest, as they say, is history. 

The pseudo-Moorish Vijećnica 

Autumn 2009 

31


Morica Han B-4, Saraci 77. Morica Han dates from 

1551 and is the best preserved inn in Sarajevo. Its beautiful 

cobbled courtyard is surrounded by old stables and store 

houses and lodging rooms upstairs. Now home to a 

restaurant and a youth organisation. There is also a carpet 

shop with stacks of rugs where stables used to be. You‘re 

free to stroll around, have a coffee or something to eat, or 

buy a beautiful carpet. 

National Library B-4, Mustaj-pasin mejdan, tel. 

(+387) 33 275 301, fax (+387) 33 218 431, nubbih@ 

nub.ba, www.nub.ba. The National Library, once the town 

hall and now called Vijecnica, was constructed by Alexander 

Wittek in 1896. On 25 August 1992 a shell fired from the 

lines of the Serbian forces besieging Sarajevo wiped out a 

large part of the Bosnian literary heritage that was kept in 

the building - over two million books and documents went 

up in flames. As the plaque outside cautions, ‘Do not forget, 

remember and warn!’ Restoration work is still ongoing and 

Vijecnica is almost entirely boarded-up, although a stroll 

around the outside of this battered but still beautiful building 

is well worth the walk and art exhibitions are held from time 

to time in the shattered interior. 

Orthodox Cathedral B-4, Zelenih Beretki bb. Inside 

the large, wonderfully cool and calming interior of the 

Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, which dates from 

1868, are large iconostases holding icons made in Russia, 

installed here by Russian masons sent by Tsar Alexander 

II. As a proof of religious tolerance, Sultan Abdul Aziz, and 

the Prince of Serbia donated 500 gold ducats towards the 

construction of the building. Serb forces shot up their own 

church during the war and the Greek government is now 

involved in helping restore the damage. Once you feel that 

you’ve soaked up enough of the spiritual you can wander 

outside this imposing multi-domed, pale mustard-colored 

building and watch the men playing chess on the giant board 

just outside on the square. 

Orthodox Cathedral 

Get ready to haggle 

Orthodox Church B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 

59. Sitting between the mosques is the ancient Serbian 

Orthodox church of St. Michael the Archangel, which dates 

from medieval times: the foundations and the unusual 

arcade structures are even early Christian, from the 5th and 

6th century. A tad unprepossessing outside, the interior is 

beautiful with gilded icons and a balcony lit by candles and 

low light, and the scent of incense in the air. Inside glass 

cases are a few anatomical relics of saints such as bones. 

The current structure that dates from 1740 was ironically 

badly damaged by Serb shells during the siege. 

Sebilj B-4, . If you are already wondering how soon you can 

make a return visit to Sarajevo take a drink from the public 

fountain in Sebilj square and, according to local legend, 

you won’t stay away for long. Built in 1891 from a design 

by Czech architect Alexander Wittek, the stone and timber 

Moorish-style fountain is the centerpiece of the main square 

in the old town. You can stroll between the restaurants and 

souvenir shops and watch the pigeons that give the square 

its better-known name descend on anyone kindly or foolhardy 

enough to pay a mark for a cup of corn - literally birdfeed for 

bird food. And if you want a cup of real Bosnian coffee, here 

is the place to get both it and a ringside seat for watching 

Sarajevo stroll by. 

Svrzo’s House C-4, Glodina 8, tel. (+387) 33 53 52 

64. Svrzo’s House reflects the lifestyle of a wealthy Muslim 

family lifestyle during the time of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors 

can inspect the separate living quarters of the men, women 

and servants and note the spacious comfort of the rooms 

used for receiving and entertaining guests. The house is in 

an extremely well-preserved condition, especially considering 

that it is constructed completely from wood, a building 

material not commonly used in the region in relatively modern 

times. A quiet courtyard would have provided the occupants 

with a pleasant and private outdoor sitting area, as it now 

does for the visitor, but it is the interior that provides the 

most interest. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. 

Closed Sun. 


Public transport 

Gras Public Transport Operator Ćumurija 4, tel. 

(+387) 33 20 38 19/(+387) 33 29 33 33, fax (+387) 

33 45 21 86, gras@gras.co.ba, www.gras.co.ba. The 

main bus, tram and troley city operator is the company GRAS 

. You can buy city bus tickets at almost any news stand in 

the Sarajevo. The first ride is at 05:00 and the last at 01:00 

a.m. Detail schedule is available in their office or on their web 

page. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. The ticket price is KM 1.60 from 

kiosks or KM 2 on the bus or trams. Daily tickets cost KM 

5.40, weekly KM 12 and monthly KM 54. 

Bus travel 

Both of Sarajevo’s bus stations are busy places, especially 

the main one near the train station which serves the 

Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and most international 

destinations. 

If you arrive here you can get a tram (number 1) or bus into 

the centre or grab a cab for around 5-6KM. There is also an 

ATM here and a few cafes and bars nearby if the journey has 

been long, gruelling or both. 

If you are coming from or heading to a destination in the 

Republika Srpska, Serbia proper or Montenegro you will 

arrive at or depart from Lukavica (aka Istochno Sarajevo) 

bus station in east Sarajevo. This station is on the fringes 

of the city and you can either get a taxi into town (about 

25KM) or a bus from the local terminal which is about a 

200 metre walk from the station. Cash can be obtained from 

the machine at the nearby TOM shopping centre. Signage 

at this bus station is predominately in Cyrillic script. If you 

are getting a taxi to the bus station make sure your driver 

knows which one you want - you can do this by explaining 

your destination to him. 

Main Bus Station Put života 8, tel. (+387) 33 213 

100/(+387) 33 213 010, fax (+387) 33 445 442, ctsbus@pksa.com.ba, 

www.centrotrans.com. The main bus 

operator is Centrotrans at the bus station. 

Train travel 

Bosnia’s rail infrastructure was badly damaged during the 

war and has yet to return to pre-war levels of operation. 

Most international visitors arriving by train will be coming 

from Zagreb or Budapest on the daily trains which arrive at 

18:30 and 06:25 respectively. There is also a train to and 

from Ploče on the southern coast of Croatia which is worth 

looking into as the journey, via Mostar, is very scenic. Sarajevo’s 

train station is right near the bus station and you 

can get into the heart of town via a bus, tram or 5 - 6KM 

taxi ride. There is no ATM at the station but there is one 

about 200 metres away at the bus station - just turn right 

when you come out of the station, go around and past the 

main post office and the bus station is straight ahead. 

Train Station Sarajevo Put života 2, tel. (+387) 33 65 

53 30. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 

Air travel 

Sarajevo airport (International Airport Butmir) is small and 

rarely too busy, helping it avoid the long baggage, immigration 

and customs queues that plague many of Europe’s other 

capital city airports. It has the facilities found at most airports 

including tourist information and currency exchange, a bar 

and cafe, an ATM and a souvenir shop. There is no regular 


getting around 

scheduled bus service to the centre so your best bets are 

to either prearrange a transfer through your hotel or grab a 

cab - there are usually quite a few lined up outside and the 

12km trip will cost about 20-25 KM (€10-12.50). As with all 

international airports, it’s not unheard of for taxi drivers to 

overcharge for a ride into town, especially if you’re a foreigner 

- make sure the metre is switched on before you depart. 

Public Transport 

Bus Lines 

14 Dom Armije - Podhrastovi 

15 Marin Dvor - Buća potok 

15B Otoka - Buća potok 

16 Dom Armije - Bare 

16A Dom Armije - Koševsko brdo II 

16B Dom Armije - Koševsko brdo 

17 Dom Armije - Breka 

17B Dom Armije - Breka II 

18 Drvenija - Pofalići 

20 Park - Jagomir 

20A Park - Jezero20B Park - Šip 

21 Sutjeska - Vogošća 

21A Sutjeska - Malešići 

22 Sutjeska - Ilijaš - Lješevo 

22A Stup - Vogošća 

23 Marin Dvor - Rajlovac 

23A Marin Dvor - Reljevo dom 

23C Otoka - Boljakov potok 

26 Stup - Dobroševići - Ahatovići 

27 Ilidža - Hrasnica 

27A Ilidža - Sokolovići 

27B Ilidža - Kovači (Hrasnica) 

28 Ilidža - Rakovica - Kobiljača 

30 Ilidža - Hadžići 

31 Nedžarići - Dobrinja 

31E Vijećnica - Dobrinja 

32 Ilidža - Butmir 

33 Ilidža - Tarčin - Vukovići 

34 Marin Dvor - Kiseljak 

35 Sutjeska - Bakići 

36 Nedžarići - Naselje Aerodrom 

37 Grbavica - Lukavica - Ilidža 

41 Drvenija - Gornji Velešići 

41A Drvenija - Donji Velešići 

42 Otoka - Dobrinja43 Ilidža - Osijek 

44 Franje Račkog - Bjelašnica 

45 Ilidža - Dejčići 

46 Ilidža - Vlakovo 

47 Ilidža - Trnovo 

48 Ilidža - Delijaši 

Tram Lines 

1 Željeznička stanica - Baščaršija 

2 Čengić vila - Baščaršija 

3 Ilidža - Baščaršija 

4 Željeznička stanica - Ilidža 

5 Nedžarići - Baščaršija 

6 Ilidža - Skenderija 

7 Nedžarići - Skenderija 

Trolley Lines 

101 Otoka - Drvenija 

103 Dobrinja - Drvenija 

104 Alipašino Polje - Drvenija 

Autumn 2009 

33

34 getting around 

Local bus schedule 

From Sarajevo To Sarajevo 

First Last City First Last # / day 

05:00 23:30 Banja 

Luka 

05:00 17:00 6 

07:30 22:00 Bihać 07:30 22:00 3-4 

05:00 05:00 Bijeljina 16:10 16:10 1 

14:30 14:30 Bosanska 

Dubica 

22:30 22:30 1 

12:15 12:15 Bosanski 

Brod 

05:54 05:54 1 

06:30 15:35 Brčko 05:00 15:00 3 

06:45 20:45 Breza 05:45 19:20 10-22 

10:00 19:00 Bugojno 05:45 17:30 3-4 

10:30 14:30 Busovača 06:40 12:15 2 

15:30 15:30 Cazin 23:50 23:50 1 

10:00 10:00 Čapljina 17:30 17:30 1 

07:20 07:20 Čelić 07:00 07:00 1 

07:45 18:30 Derventa 07:45 15:45 2 

07:45 18:30 Doboj 08.30 16:30 2 

07:30 22:00 Donji 

Vakuf 

06:05 01:40 9 - 10 

05:30 19:55 Fojnica 05:30 19:30 8 

08:00 08:00 Goražde 16:30 16:30 1 

08:30 08:30 Goražde 14:30 14:30 1 

14:00 14:00 Gornji 

Rahići 

06:35 06:35 1 

08:30 17:00 Gradačac 05:30 13:45 2 

10:00 10:00 Hadžići 20:15 20:15 1 

10:00 10:00 Jablanica 19:05 19:05 1 

07:30 22:00 Jajce 07:10 00:50 6 

05:45 20:50 Kakanj 05:00 20:00 13-22 

05:30 20:50 Kiseljak 06:00 20:00 8-13 

07:30 22:00 Ključ 06:00 23:40 4 

10:00 10:00 Konjic 19:30 19:30 1 

12:15 14:30 Maglaj 03:20 07:45 2 

06:00 17:00 Mostar 06:00 18:15 8-11 

10:00 10:00 Neum 16:30 16:30 1 

13:00 13:00 Novi 

Travnik 

07:10 07:10 1 

05:00 20:00 Olovo 06:10 18:45 15-16 

10:00 14:00 Pale 11:00 15:00 2 

00:30 00:30 Prijedor 05:30 05:30 1 

07:45 18:30 Prijedor 05:30 05:30 1-2 

07:45 18:30 Prnjavor 07:15 15:15 2 

07:00 15:50 Renovica 06:00 15:50 2 

15:30 15:30 Sanski 

Most 

05:00 05:00 1 

07:10 07:10 Srebrenica 16:30 16:30 1 

14:30 17:00 Stolac 06:10 11:10 2 

07:00 17:15 Tešanj 06:30 15:30 3 

07:30 22:00 Travnik 02:45 06:50 11-12 

05:00 18:00 Tuzla 04:00 18:00 14-15 

05:00 18:00 05:30 18:00 13 

06:45 20:45 Vareš 05:30 18:45 7-8 

15:30 15:30 Velika 

Kladuša 

23:00 23:00 1 

06:00 21:30 Visoko 05:30 20:30 11-23 

07:30 22:00 Vitez 07:10 19:20 7-11 

05:30 21:00 Zenica 06:00 20:30 10-21 

05:40 15:30 Zvornik 06:00 16:45 3 

12:15 14:30 Žepče 03:40 07:30 2 

Adria Airways Ferhadija 23/2, tel. (+387) 33 23 21 

25/(+387) 33 46 43 31, fax (+387) 33 23 36 92, adr. 

sarajevo@adria.si, www.adria.si. The national Slovenian 

airline flies regularly to Sarajevo. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. A 

Austrian Airlines Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 

28 92 42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, fax (+387) 33 45 12 

13, office.sjj@aua.com, www.aua.com. Austrian Airways 

operates flights from Vienna to Sarajevo. The Austrian airport 

office also represents Lufthansa. QOpen 05:30 - 17:00. 

Closed Sun. A 

BH Airlines Branilaca grada broj 15, tel./fax (+387) 

33 55 01 26, tel. (+387) 33 55 01 25, agencija@ 

bhairlines.ba, www.airbosna.ba. The national airline 

carrier of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Q A 

Butmir International Airport Kurta Schorka 36, tel. 

(+387) 33 28 91 00, www.sarajevo-airport.ba. QOpen 

06:30 - 22:00. AGKX 

Croatia Airlines Kranjčevićeva 4/I, tel. (+387) 33 66 

61 23/(+387) 33 25 86 00, fax (+387) 33 258 600, 

sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr, www.croatiaairlines.hr. The 

national airline of Croatia. Operates flights to Sarajevo from 

Zagreb. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 

Lufthansa Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 28 92 

42/(+387) 33 45 12 13, www.lufthansa.de. The German 

airline operates services from Koln, Stuttgart, Munchen and 

Frankfurt to Sarajevo. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 

Malev Zelenih beretki 6, tel. (+387) 33 21 62 

40/(+387) 33 47 32 01, fax (+387) 33 46 71 05, 

sarajevo@malev.hu, www.malev.hu. The national 

Hungarian airline operates services from Budapest to 

Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:30. 

Turkish Airlines Kulovica 5, tel. (+387) 33 21 29 

38/(+387) 33 46 57 31, fax (+387) 33 47 03 31, www. 

thy.com. The Turkish airline operates regular services from 

Instanbul to Sarajevo. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 

Car rental 

Avis Kurta Schorka 36, tel. (+387) 33 46 99 33/(+387) 

33 289 278, fax (+387) 33 474 055, info@avis.ba, 

www.avis.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. A 

CITO Dzemala Bijedica 185 - Hotel Radon Plaza, tel. 

(+387) 33 76 98 90/(+387) 63 83 00 14, fax (+387) 

33 76 98 91, info@cito.ba, www.cito.ba. QOpen 09:00 

- 17:00. 

Europcar Bulevar Mese Selimovica 16, tel. (+387) 

33 76 03 60, fax (+387) 33 76 03 61, reservation@ 

europcar.ba, www.europcar.ba. QOpen 09:00 

- 17:00. . 

Rabbit Akifa Šeremeta 58, tel. (+387) 62 22 99 

11/(+387) 61 96 62 93, info@rabbit.ba, www.rabbit. 

ba. Rents Smart cars from its location near the airport. 

Virtus Muvekita 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 36 26/(+387) 

33 22 36 26, fehim@virtus.ba, www.virtusrent.ba. 

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 


Car travel 

Sarajevo’s roads are much improved from a few years ago 

but this in turn may have contributed to the ever-increasing 

volume of traffic. Coming in and out of town is fairly 

straightforward with good signposting to the Centar but 

once in the heart of town non-local drivers need to contend 

with narrow streets, lots of one-way and ‘No Entry’ 

roads and the local drivers, who tend to be impatient 

behind the wheel and don’t mind using their horn to give a 

blast to anyone too slow to respond to a changed traffic 

signal. Those used to congested inner-cities won’t find it 

too much of a problem but the more hesitant may be best 

to leave the car parked at or near their hotel and use public 

transport, taxis and foot-power for getting around, all of 

which are less stressful and will give you the opportunity 

to see and experience a lot more than if you are gripping 

the wheel and gritting your teeth. This also gets rid of the 

problem of finding somewhere to park in the car-crowded 

centre. Drivers are required by law to have their headlights 

on at all times. This is mainly for safety reasons and when 

you enter one of Bosnia’s long tunnels you’ll be glad it is 

so. Another safety factor to bear in mind is that roads can 

be hazardous during the winters, with ice, fog and snow 

providing a challenge to all but the most experienced of 

mountainous terrain in winter drivers. 

Taxis 

Do not be surprised with the state of some of the cars you 

get into. There is no standard for vehicles that can be used 

as taxis in Sarajevo. Some of the taxi drivers can be very 

nice and polite but a large number of them are not. Don’t 

be surprised if your taxi driver lights up a cigarette or turns 

up the volume on his stereo just because his favourite turbo 

folk song is on the radio. 



Local train schedule 


First Last City First Last # / 

day 

06:45 18:18 Bačević 07:26 18:28 2 

10:27 21:20 Banja Luka 13:15 01:24 2 

07:10 19:30 Blažuj 06:24 18:36 3 

10:27 21:20 Bosanski 

novi 

11:44 23:51 2 

07:14 07:14 Bosanski 

Šamac 

16:48 16:48 1 

06:45 19:30 Bradina 05:44 20:11 2-3 

06:45 18:18 Čapljina 7:00 18:02 2 

06:45 18:18 ČelebićI 08:43 19:40 2 

10:27 21:20 Čelinac 13:29 01:38 2 

07:14 21:20 Doboj 03:26 18:14 3 

04:40 19:11 Dobrinje 05:58 20:07 6 

10:27 21:20 Dragalovci 14:29 02:42 2 

06:45 18:18 Drežnica 08:00 19:02 2 

04:40 19:11 Drivuša 05:24 15:38 5 

07:10 19:30 Grad 05:34 17:38 3 

06:45 19:30 Hadžići 06:15 20:39 2-3 

06:45 18:18 Jablanica 05:49 19:26 2-6 

07:14 21:20 Kakanj 05:28 20:17 3 

06:45 19:30 Konjic 05:14 19:47 2-3 

06:45 18:18 Kručevići 07:11 18:13 2 

04:40 19:11 Lašva 05:32 15:46 5 

07:14 21:20 Maglaj 03:54 18:42 3 

07:14 07:14 Modriča 17:09 17:09 1 

04:40 19:11 Modrinje 05:40 15:54 5 

06:45 18:18 Mostar 07:38 18:40 2 

10:27 21:20 Omarska 12:36 00:45 2 

06:45 18:18 Ostrožac 08:36 19:33 2 

07:10 19:30 Ovčari 05:24 17:28 3 

06:45 19:30 Pazarić 06:06 20:31 2-3 

04:40 21:20 Podlugovi 05:52 20:41 3-5 

10:27 21:20 Prijedor 18:18 00:26 2 

04:40 19:11 Rajlovac 06:40 20:49 5 

07:10 19:30 Raštelica 05:55 17:59 3 

04:40 19:11 Semizovac 06:30 20:39 5 

21:20 21:20 Stanari 02:49 02:49 1 

06:45 18:18 Šurmanici 07:09 18:11 2 

10:27 21:20 Ukrina 14:02 02:19 2 

04:40 21:20 Visoko 05:45 20:34 3-6 

07:14 21:20 Zavidovići 04:15 19:03 3 

04:40 21:20 Zenica 05:02 19:51 3-5 

07:14 21:20 Žepče 16:11 04:26 3 

06:45 18:18 Žitomislići 07:17 18:19 2 

clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com 

Autumn 2009 

35


International bus schedule 


Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. One way (€) 

- 2 - - - - - 08:00 13:10 Amsterdam - 2 - - - - - 08:00 13:10 118 

- 2 - - - - - 08:00 10:25 Antwerpen - 2 - - - - - 10:45 13:10 114 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 13:10 Belgrade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 12:45 21 

16:00 23:10 Belgrade 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 22:45 

- - - 4 - - - 08:00 07:40 Berlin - - - - - 6 - 10:00 09:40 88 

- - - - - 6 - 09:30 11:30 Berlin - - - - 5 - - 17:00 16:15 107 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 17:05 Berlin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 11:00 82 

1 2 3 4 - 6 7 08:00 15:20 Dortmund 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 05:00 12:35 133 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 15:50 Dubrovnik 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 20:50 23 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 09:20 Frankfurt 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 12:35 108 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 21:00 Gotenborg 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:30 00:00 144 

- - - - - 6 - 09:30 01:30 Gotenborg - - - - 5 - - 02:30 16:15 152 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 19:15 Graz 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:15 07:55 40 

- - - - - 6 - 17:00 19:25 Hamburg - - - - 5 - - 05:00 07:40 133 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 18:50 Herceg Novi 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 15:50 23 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:05 01:50 Innsbruck 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 09:55 62 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 15:40 Copenhagen 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:30 00:00 135 

- - - - - 6 - 09:30 21:00 Copenhagen - - - - 5 - - 07:30 16:15 130 

- - - - - 6 - 09:30 04:45 Linkoping - - - 4 - - - 22:30 16:15 163 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 23:30 Linz 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 07:55 56 

- 2 - 4 - - 7 20:40 06:00 Ljubljana 1 -3 -5 - - 19:15 04:55 45 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:15 03:10 Ljubljana 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:00 08:10 39 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 17:00 Malmo 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:30 00:00 135 

- - - - - 6 - 09:30 22:00 Malmo - - - - 5 - - 06:30 16:15 130 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 02:50 München 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 12:35 65 

- - - - - 6 - 17:00 08:10 München - - - - 5 - - 16:25 07:40 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 22:00 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:15 17:00 15 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 05:45 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 20:30 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 14:00 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 14:15 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 04:30 Novi Pazar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 05:15 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:15 02:10 Novo mesto 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 08:10 35 

- - - - - 6 - 09:30 06:00 Oslo - - - 4 - - - 21:30 16:15 171 

- - - - 5 - - 09:00 14:30 Paris - - - - - - 7 14:00 17:30 133 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:00 04:30 Pula 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 02:45 45 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 02:50 Rijeka 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 02:45 39 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:05 23:20 Salzburg 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:35 09:55 57 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 13:50 Slavonski Brod 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:10 22:30 15 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:30 21:10 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 12:45 24 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 18:00 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 22:20 24 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 04:30 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 17:30 24 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:00 13:35 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 14:25 24 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 18:00 Split 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 17:30 24 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 02:00 Stockholm 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 00:00 158 

- - - - - 6 - 09:30 08:30 Stockholm - - - 4 - - - 17:00 16:15 163 

- 2 - - -6 - 08:30 09:00 Stockholm - 2 - - 5 - - 16:00 17:30 182 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 22:45 Vienna 1 2 3 4 - 6 7 18:00 08:45 49 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:15 23:30 Vienna 1 2 3 4 - 6 7 18:00 06:00 44 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 23:55 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:50 02:45 31 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 14:50 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 14:50 35 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:30 20:55 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:30 20:55 35 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 06:00 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 06:00 35 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:30 16:00 Zagreb 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:45 22:30 23 


The standard starting rate for taxis and the rate per kilometre 

is € 2 and €0.75 per kilometer. One hour waiting rate is € 7.5 

There is no difference in price if you order a taxi in advance. There 

are at least 50 different taxi ranks in the city. To get a taxi you just 

need to stand on the street and stop one or simply call one of the 

taxi services. There are about 1.200 taxis in the city. 

Samir i Emir taxi Travnicka 35, tel. (+387) 33 66 76 

81. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 

Sarajevo taxi Tel. (+387) 33 15 15/(+387) 33 66 06 

66, www.sarajevotaxi.com.ba. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 

Zuti taxi Bana Mateja Ninoslava 18, tel. (+387) 33 

66 35 55. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 

Travel Agents 

Centrotrans-eurolines d.d. Sarajevo Kurta Shorka 

bb, tel. (+387) 33 464 040/(+387) 33 464 045, 

ferhadija16@hotmail.com, info@centrotrans.com, 

www.centrotrans.com, www.centrotours.ba. They 

speak English and German. 

Otas Maršala Tita 38d, tel. (+387) 33 221 410/(+387) 

33 221 420, otas@otas.ba, www.otas.ba. 

Relaxtours Terazije bb, tel. (+387) 33 209 012/(+387) 33 

263 190, relaxtours@relaxtours.com, www.relaxtours.com. 

Relax tours is the leading bosnian travel agency established in 1989 

and the first privately held travel agency in Bosnia and Herzegovina. 

These travel agents also speak English and German. 

One of Sarajevo’s trademark trams 



International train schedule 


Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. 

07:14 14:10 Beli manastir 14:22 21:09 

07:14 17:20 Belgrade 06:20 21:39 

07:14 18:58 Budapest 09:25 21:09 

07:50 09:45 Đakovo 05:21 07:10 

12:00 13:55 Dombovar 08:57 10:52 

10:27 18:05 Hrvatska kostajnica 10:39 18:05 

21:20 05:01 Hrvatska kostajnica 22:39 06:20 

10:27 19:10 Lekenik 09:33 18:05 

21:20 06:07 Lekenik 21:31 06:20 

10:27 23:50 Ljubljana 06:15 18:18 

07:14 14:38 Magyarboly 13:40 21:09 

06:45 10:07 Metkovići 06:35 10:02 

18:18 21:44 Metkovići 17:34 20:59 

10:27 06:15 Munich 11:26 06:20 

21:20 16:32 Munich 23:45 18:18 

07:14 13:15 Osijek 14:54 21:09 

07:14 15:55 Pecs 12:40 21:09 

06:45 10:41 Ploče 06:05 10:02 

18:18 22:16 Ploče 17:00 20:59 

07:14 17:36 Sarbogard 10:49 21:09 

07:14 16:32 Sasd 11:52 21:09 

10:27 18:53 Sisak 09:52 18:05 

18:05 05:41 Sisak 21:50 06:20 

10:27 18:46 Sisak caprag 09:59 18:05 

21:20 05:48 Sisak caprag 21:58 06:20 

07:14 11:50 Slavonski Šamac 16:03 21:09 

07:14 12:27 Strizivojna - Vrpolje 15:46 21:09 

10:27 18:23 Sunja 10:22 18:05 

21:20 05:18 Sunja 22:22 06:20 

07:14 16:10 Szentlorinc 12:15 21:09 

10:27 19:31 Velika Gorica 09:14 18:05 

21:20 06:26 Velika Gorica 21:09 06:20 

10:27 07:16 Venice 21:27 18:18 

07:14 14:44 Villany 13:13 21:09 

10:27 17:56 Volinja 11:03 18:05 

21:20 04:28 Volinja 23:08 06:20 

21:20 13:55 Vienna 06:04 21:09 

10:27 19:47 Zagreb 08:47 18:05 

21:20 06:43 Zagreb 20:59 06:20 

Valid until December 1, 2009. 

Autumn 2009 

37


Relaxing by the river in Vilsonovo 

Flight schedule 


Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. 

- - 3 - - 6 - 07:00 07:15 Banja Luka (JA) - - 3 - - 6 - 13:30 13:45 

1 - - - - - - 15:30 15:45 Banja Luka (JA) 1 - - - - - - 22:00 22:15 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 07:15 Beograd (JU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:40 22:10 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:20 16:25 Budapest (MA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:50 15:55 

- - - 4 - - 7 15:00 17:25 Frankfurt (JA) - - - 4 - - 7 21:00 23:20 

- 2 - - - - - 08:45 10:30 Stuttgart (4U) - 2 - - - - - 06:35 08:15 

- 2 - - - - - 18:35 20:20 Stuttgart (4U) - 2 - - - - - 16:25 18:05 

- - - - - 6 - 12:25 14:10 Stuttgart (4U) - - - - - 6 - 10:15 11:55 

1 - - - 4 - 6 - 14:55 17:45 Istanbul (TK) 1 - - - 4 - 6 - 13:55 14:45 

- 2 3 - 5 - 7 18:15 21:05 Istanbul (TK) - 2 3 - 5 - 7 17:15 18:05 

- 2 - 4 - - - 13:45 15:45 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) - 2 - - 4 - - 13:15 15:15 

- - - - - 6 - 15:55 17:55 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) - - - 4 - - - 13:40 15:40 

- - - 4 - 6 - 14:10 16:10 Koeln (Cologne) (4U) - - - - - 6 - 15:25 17:25 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:25 17:20 Ljubljana (JP) - - - - - - 7 14:55 15:50 

- - - - - - 7 15:25 16:20 Ljubljana (JP) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:55 16:50 

1 2 3 4 5 - 7 06:15 09:25 Istambul (JA) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 11:00 12:10 

- 2 - - - - - 13:45 15:50 Duesseldorf (JA) - 2 - - - - - 16:40 18:45 

- 2 - - - - - 15:00 17:05 Duesseldorf (JA) - 2 - - - - - 17:55 20:00 

1 2 3 4 5 6 - 06:35 08:05 Munich (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 12:25 13:50 

1 2 3 4 5 - 7 13:00 14:30 Munich (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 20:50 22:15 

Beograd (SOP) 1 - - - - - - 10:45 11:30 

1 2 3 4 5 - - 16:45 17:30 Beograd (SOP) - 2 3 4 5 - - 11:10 11:55 

- - 3 - 5 - - 10:05 13:00 Rygge (DY) - - 3 - 5 - - 09:25 12:20 

1 - - - - - - 11:30 12:45 Skopje (JA) 1 - - - - - - 14:45 16:05 

- - - 4 - - - 12:00 12:40 Podgorica (JA) - - - - - - 7 14:45 15:30 

- - - - - - 7 13:15 14:00 Podgorica (JA) - - - 4 - - - 16:15 17:00 

1 - - 4 - - - 12:00 14:35 Copenhagen (JA) 1 - - 4 - - - 15:35 18:05 

- - 3 - - 6 - 10:10 13:00 Stockholm (DY) - - 3 - - 6 - 09:25 12:20 

1 - 3 - - - - 07:00 08:35 Vienna (JA) - 2 - 4 5 - - 17:00 18:20 

- 2 - 4 5 6 7 13:30 14:50 Vienna (JA) 

- - - - - 6 - 07:30 10:15 Goteborg (JA) - - - 4 - - - 03:30 06:15 

- - 3 - - - - 12:00 14:45 Goteborg (JA) - - - - - 6 - 11:15 14:00 

- - 3 - - - - 22:00 00:45 Goteborg (JA) - - 3 - - - - 15:40 18:15 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:50 09:10 Vienna (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 15:50 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:25 16:40 Vienna (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 22:10 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 07:15 Zagreb (OU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:30 16:15 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 17:15 Zagreb (OU) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 22:45 

- 2 - 4 - - - 07:30 09:55 Zurich (JA) - 2 - 4 5 - 7 12:30 14:55 

- - - - 5 - 7 07:15 09:30 Zurich (JA) 

Airline codes: JP Adria Airways; JU Jat Airways; MA Malev; OS Austrian Airlines; TK Turkish Airlines; RA Icar air; LH Lufthansa; 

BA British Airways; JA BH Airlines; 4U germanwings ; DY norvegian.no; OU Croatia Airlines; SOP Solinair 


Internet 

To log in over a phone line with a local dialup method contact 

one of the following providers: 

BH Telekom +387 33 212 277, 

M-Tel Phone: +387 57 310 490, 

Eronet +387 33 259 970Wifi is available in some hotels, 

restaurants and bars. Free wifi in the city can be found 

in: Business center UNITIC, Hotel Holiday Inn, Bus station 

Sarajevo, BH Telecom Center, main post office. 

e-Agent 29 Brace Begic. Situated in Kosevko Brdo, 

across from the Chinese embassy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 

Closed Sun. Cost: 1km/30 mins. 

Gemini Internet Cafe B-3, Šenoina 16. Situated across 

the street from Marsala Tita. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 

InterLink Centar B-4, Obala Kulina bana 7/III, tel. 

(+387) 33 20 59 43. Q Prices are more or less same at 

all Internet cafes. Cost: €1 for one hour, €2,5 for three hours, 

€4 for five hours, €7.5 for 10 hours. 

Internet CAFÉ AltarITC C-2, Husrefa Redzica 3, tel. 

(+387) 33 44 08 15/(+387) 61 22 25 65. Q Prices are 

more or less same at all Internet cafes. Cost: €1 for one hour, 

€2,5 for three hours, €4 for five hours, €7.5 for 10 hours. 

Internet Cafe Cyber Uyun Komerc. On the street across 

Mula Mustafe Bašeskje, the street behind the Cathedral. 

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Cost: 1KM/20 mins. 

Internet Club Click B-4, Kundurdžiluk 1, tel. (+387) 

33 236 914. In the center, across from hotel Astra. QOpen 

09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Cost: 1km/20 mins. 

Virtual Spot B-3; B-4, Petrakijna 6, tel. (+387) 33 20 

05 99/(+387) 61 19 89 28, virtual@bih.net.ba, www. 

v-spot.ba. This spot offers one of the best deals in town. 

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. 1 hour - 2KM, 3 hour - 5KM, 5 hour - 

8KM, 10 hour - 15KM, 50 hour - 65KM, 100 hour - 100KM. 

ZemZem B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskje 61, tel. (+387) 33 

239 648/(+387) 61 804 200. Q Cost: 1KM/20 mins. 

Inside the central post office 

Mobile phones 

All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards, available for 

sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, 

bookshops, shopping centers etc.The basic set-up costs 

for all mobile providers is from 5-10 EUR.You do not need to 

show any forms of ID to get a SIM card. There is no place in 

Sarajevo or at the airport to rent a mobile phone. 


Mail & Phones 

BH Telecom (061, 062) B-4, Obala Kulina bana 

8, tel. (+387) 33 21 22 77, fax (+387) 33 21 22 88, 

www.bhmobile.ba. All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM 

cards. They are for sale in operators offices, post offices, 

newspaper stands, bookshops, shopping centers etc. You 

don’t need to show ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 

- 20:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile 

providers is 5-10 EUR. 

Eronet (063) B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 19, tel. (+387) 

33 25 99 70, fax (+387) 33 25 99 71, www.eronet.ba. 

All operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for 

sale in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, 

bookshops, shopping centers etc. You don’t need to show 

ID to get a SIM card. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 

- 15:00. Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile 

providers is 5-10 EUR. 

M-tel (065, 066) Trg ilidžanskih boraca bb, tel. (+387) 

57 31 04 90, fax (+387) 57 310 490, www.mtel.ba. All 

operators in BiH offer prepaid SIM cards. They are for sale 

in operators offices, post offices, newspaper stands, bookshops, 

shopping centers etc. You don’t need to show ID to 

get a SIM card. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. 

Closed Sun. The basic set-up costs for all mobile providers 

is 5-10 EUR. 

Mailing 

These are the main international express mail companies 

and the main post office in Sarajevo.Every post office and 

bank in the city offers currency exchange cash into/from 

euros. 

DHL Dzemala Bijedica 166, tel. (+387) 33 77 40 00, 

www.dhl.ba. QOpen 08:00. 

EMS B-1, Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 17 17, 

www.bhp.ba. QOpen 08:00. 

FedEx Brace Mulic 48, tel. (+387) 33 77 32 50, www. 

fedex.co.ba. 

Main Post Office (Glavna pošta Sarajevo) B-1, B-2, 

Zmaja od Bosne 88, tel. (+387) 33 14 44/(+387) 33 

14 23, fax (+387) 33 65 04 07. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. 

Closed Sun. Postal Rates: 

Letters. 

Public phones 

There is only one public phone company in the city. All 

payphones are card-operated. You can get a card in 

every post office. The instructions on the telephones 

are in English too. Calling cards cost 1 Euro, 2 Euros, 

etc. 

Making calls 

When you are: calling within the city, only dial the 6 

subscriber number digits calling from the city to another 

city: dial city code with the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber 

number calling from abroad to the city: dial country code, 

city code without the zero, then the 6-digit subscriber 

number. calling to a local mobile number: dial mobile 

number with the zero. 

Local phone codes 

Sarajevo 033 Banja Luka 051 

Bihać 037 Mostar 036 

Tuzla 035 

Autumn 2009 

39

40 shoPPing 

You can spend hours upon hours browsing through quaint 

boutiques, workshops and large department stores within 

the bustling old town alleyways or along the main shopping 

streets. Here is a selection of shops that may be worth a 

visit - buy anything from books, souvenirs to clothes, art 

and flowers. 

Art 

Art Gallery B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4 - Holiday Inn, 

tel. (+387) 33 28 80 00, holiday@bih.net.net.ba. The 

art gallery is located on the mezzanine floor. You can take 

a look at the paintings of Mersad Berber, one of the most 

reknowned Bosnian & Herzegovinian painters. 

Art Shop B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 24. Original and unique 

pieces of art and jewellery are on sale every Saturday at BKC. 

Q Open Sat 11:00-17:00 

Bookshops 

You can find translated Bosnian literature in English, German 

and Italian in the bookshops listed. You may be interested in 

the following famous/popular writers in Bosnia: 

Miljenko Jergović (Ruta Tannenbaum) 

Emir Imamović (Tajna Doline piramida) 

Nenad Veličković (100 zmajeva) 

Ozren Kebo (Sarajevo za početnike) 

Faruk Šehić (Transsarajevo, poetry) 

Buybook B-3, Radićeva 4, tel. (+387) 33 71 64 

51/(+387) 33 71 20 10, info@buybook.ba, www.buybook. 

ba. Almost the definition of a ‘good book shop’, Buybook has a 

range of titles in both Bosnian and other European languages 

along with postcards that go beyond the typical tourist type 

images. Add a coffee shop and no pressure to buy and you have 

an ideal place to stock up on reading material. QOpen 09:00 

- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. 

Interliber Azize Sacirbegovic 100, tel. (+387) 33 712 

515, fax (+387) 33 712 516, info@interliber.com, www. 

interliber.com. Interliber bookshop offers a whole range of 

books - computers, history, literature, you name it and in local 

and international languages. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. 

TKD Šahinpašić B-4, Maršala Tita 29 & Vladislava 

Skarica 8, tel. (+387) 33 21 05 30/(+387) 33 77 11 

80, fax (+387) 33 77 11 88, info@btcsahinpasic.com, 

www.btcsahinpasic.com. Like buybook, Šahinpašić has 

a good range of titles including novels and non-fiction, with 

a wide selection of the myriad books written on the Bosnian 

conflict. It has many English language titles, very helpful staff, 

and the prevailing atmosphere is browse for as long as you 

like. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. 

Grand Centar in Ilidža 

Fashion 

Bata C-3, Ćemaluša 3, and Kurta Šorka 7 - Wisa 

Shopping Centar, tel./fax (+387) 33 45 03 15, www. 

bata.com. Bata is one of the world’s leading footwear 

retailers and manufacturers. 

Calypso B-3; B-2, Titova 15 & Fra Andjela Zvizodvica 1, 

tel. (+387) 33 44 42 49/(+387) 33 20 76 63, fax (+387) 

33 20 76 63, info@calypso.ba, www.calypso.ba. 

Fontana shop B-4; B-2, Ferhadija 35, Zelenih beretki 

20, Kralja Tvrtka 27. Fortuna sells a range of cosmetics 

and perfumes for men and women. 

Granoff B-3; B-4, Ferhadija 34 & Titova 34, tel. (+387) 

33 55 22 52/(+387) 33 57 21 55, fax (+387) 33 76 

96 31, info@granoff.ba, www.granoff.ba. If you’ve got 

an important meeting in town or you have to be present at 

a wedding, don’t hestitate! You can pick a suit at Granoff 

which is the place to get fitted in one of the best men’s 

fashion boutiques. 

Marina Rinaldi B-3, Radićeva 12, tel. (+387) 33 

27 20 10. 

Martimex B-4; A-1, Strossmayerova 1 & Gradačačka 

1, tel. (+387) 33 200 983, martimex_stross@bih.net. 

ba. Perfumes for men and women. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, 

Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. 

Oviesse TC Intershop, Kolodvorska 12, www.oviesse. 

com/en. Italian fashion outlet for men, women, children and 

home accessories. 

Retro B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb RTC. This store 

sells funky, retro boots and shoes for men and women at 

resonable prices. 

Springfield B-4, Sime Milutinovica 12. 

Terranova B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 14, tel. 

(+387) 33 550 795/(+387) 33 550 796, www. 

terranova-on-line.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 

10:00 - 20:00. 

Theresa B-2, Fra Andjela Zvizdovica 1. 

Flowers 

Cvjećara Nerina 2 B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne bb. 

Cvjecara VI B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 59, tel. 

(+387) 33 23 37 14. 

Palma C-3, Bolnicka bb, tel. (+387) 33 44 53 45. 

Markets 

Sarajevo has plenty of open markets with fresh fruit and 

vegetables but also many other interesting items. The 

main city markets are open every day from early morning 

hours until 17:00 or 18:00. Bascarsija Market (crafts) 

Ciglane market (Flea market, vegetables and fruit) Markale 

market (vegetables, fruit and flowers) Flea market Stup 

(only on Sundays) Otoka Market (food and clothes) 

Shopping Centres 

BBI Centar B-3, Trg Sarajeva, tel. (+387) 33 560 500, 

info@bbicentar.ba, www.bbicentar.ba. The crème de 

la crème of Sarajevo’s shopping centres, it’s 43000m² of 

capitalism gone wild and the only modern mall in the centre 

of town. Opened back in April it took the place of the older 

Sarajka shopping centre that was one of the symbols of 

Sarajevo prior to the war. The architecture both inside and 

out is quite impressive - if perhaps not to everyone’s taste 

- and the selection of shops is the widest you’ll find anywhere 

in the city. Even if you’re not looking to shop the five floors 

of air conditioned asymmetry can be an attractive place 

to wander during the hot summer months. QOpen 09:00 

- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 


Grand Centar Butmirska 14, tel. (+387) 33 626 

291. Yet another of the city’s brand new modern 

shopping centres, it’s part of the Sani Grand City 

development combining retail, municipal and residential 

space in the suburb of Ilidža. Anchored by a nearly 

3000m² Mercator Hypermarket the mall is home to all 

kinds of shops from fashion and footwear to books and 

electronics, and of course the prerequisite restaurants, 

children’s play area and more than enough parking. 

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 

Mercator Centar Ložionička 16, tel. (+387) 33 28 61 

50, www.mercator.ba. Sarajevo’s first modern shopping 

centre is still popular with locals. A bit out of the centre it’s 

relatively easily reached by tram, and parking is plentiful if 

you have your own transport. There’s the usual mix of local 

boutiques and large international chain stores including 

Intersport and Benetton, as well as a cheap cantina-style 

buffet and several other eateries. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, 

Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 

Skenderija Shopping Centar A-2, Terezije bb, tel./ 

fax (+387) 33 665 322, marketing@skenderija.ba, 

www.skenderija.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. 

VF Korea Put Zivota bb, trimont@bih.net.ba, www. 

trimont.com.ba. 

WISA Bačići bb, tel. (+387) 33 71 02 10/(+387) 61 

14 53 80, fax (+387) 33 71 02 11, maldoo@bih.net. 

ba, www.mal.ba. 

Souvenirs 

Baščaršija is a colourful market area of narrow streets, 

broad squares, mosques, cafés and scores of tiny 

handicraft, carpet, antique and souvenir shops. Most 

of the souvenir shops offer up the same wares - mugs 

and postcards, copper coffee sets and serving dishes 

and trays - but there are also some unique items to 

be found. The hundreds of thousands of shells and 

bullets that rained down on Sarajevo during the siege 

are now turned into pens and pepper pots, showing that 

the ingenuity of the citizens didn’t desert them once 

the hostilities ceased. Other interesting items include 

memorabilia from the Communist years and the Olympic 

weeks. Though the occasional hard-sell approach may 

make you feel you really are in Istanbul, the tinkling of 

the copper-workers’ hammers, the cobblestones and 

timber-fronted shops make Baščaršija a great place 

for wandering, looking, and no doubt buying something 

to take home with you. 

Bosnian Handicraft Knitwear Shop Cizmedžiluk 

1, tel. (+387) 33 551 535, bhcrafts@bih.net.ba, 

www.bhcrafts.org. Some of the best handmade gifts 

in town can be found here. Bosnian Handicraft sells 

handmade sweaters, gloves, scarfs and toys made by 

Bosnian women. 

Butik Badem Abadžiluk 12. If you’re looking for 

oriental spices and some amazing sweets and nuts 

then pay a visit to Butik Badem. The Turkish delights 

and candied almonds are something you’ve got to try. 

You’ll definitely find something you fancy there. QOpen 

09:00 - 23:00. 

Gallery Nur Veliki Čurčiluk 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, 

Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 

Kazandžiluk Street B-4, Kazandžiluk bb. The 

famous coppersmith trading place on the west side of 

Baščaršija. Here you’ll find great antiques, hand carved 

copper dishes and oriental decor. The best place in the 

old town to get your local coffee set souvenir. 

Kiko Rugs Trgovke 19, tel. (+387) 61 207 504. The 

shop has a nice selection of new and used rugs. They 


shoPPing 

Hand-made metal work in Basščaršija 

are local specialists and also have a repair service. You 

will find it in a small street starting from the lower part 

of the Pigeon Square. 

Oriental Shoes B-4, Saraci 15. These oriental leather 

shoes are hand-made and embroidered by craftsmen of 

Kalajdzisalihovic M. Ahmed, proud of their tradition dating 

back to 1822. Q Price 55 EUR, other models from 25 

EUR, also available in textile. 

Souvenir shop B-4, Kazandžiluk 18a. QOpen 08:00 

- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 

Vezenje B-4, Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 20, tel. 

(+387) 33 233 532/(+387) 61 172 998, vezenje@ 

bih.net.ba, www.vezenje.ba. This small shop near 

the Markale market is the place to go if you’re looking 

for patches. From UN and EU to various police and 

paramilitary groups to sport teams and of course the 

1984 Winter Olympics, they have them all. The patches 

by themselves run KM3-5, but you can get them affixed 

to decent quality shirts starting at only KM15. QOpen 

08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 

Sports 

BB Sport Shop B-4; A-2; B-1; B-2, Ferhadija 3, Terezije 

bb, Zmaja od Bosne bb (TC Robot Socijalno) , Mula 

Mustafe Bašeskije bb, tel. (+387) 33 222 333, info@ 

bbsport.ba, www.bbsport.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. 

Intersport Ložionička 16 (Mercator Centar). 

Sport life B-4, Ferhadija 12. 


Autumn 2009 

41

42 direCtory 

Everything about communications, health, government, 

media, banks, real estate, language courses and so on. 

Clinics and Hospitals 

Clinical Centre I. Sarajevo Kasindo 74, tel. (+387) 

57 676 195, bolnica_kasindo@paleol.net. 

Eurofarm Centar Butmirska cesta 14, tel. (+387) 33 

773 020/(+387) 61 13 63 06, eurofarm@epn.ba, www. 

eurofarmcentar.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 

- 15:00. Closed Sun. 

Opća bolnica Sarajevo (General hospital 

Sarajevo) B-1; B-2, Kranjčevićeva 12, tel. (+387) 

33 208 100, hospital@obs.ba, www.obs.ba. QOpen 

00:00 - 24:00. 

Poliklinika Dr. Gezo Mustafe Kamerića 10, Dobrinja, 

tel. (+387) 33 450 102, fax (+387) 33 455 425, 

info@drgezo.ba, www.drgezo.ba. Physicians specialize 

in Otolaryngology, the medical and surgical therapy of 

problems of the ears, nose and throat. QOpen 09:00 

- 19:00. Closed Sun. 

Poliklinika Dr. Hadžiomerović B-3, Maršala Tita 

2, tel. (+387) 33 458 684/(+387) 61 188 009, 

drhomer@pksa.com.ba, www.drhadziomerovic.ba. A 

private clinic with services in Gynocology, Internal Medicine 

and Ultrasound. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. 

Closed Sun. 

Poliklinika FM B-1; B-2, Vilsonovo šetalite 6, tel. 

(+387) 33 22 33 88, info@poliklinika-fm.ba, www. 

poliklinika-fm.ba. Clinic specializing in cardiology, 

gastroenterology, endocrinology, radiology, breast diseases, 

neurology, orthopedics, urology, dermatology and physical 

therapy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed 

Sun. 

Poliklinke Atrijum Džemala Bijedića 185, Avaz 

Business Center, tel. (+387) 33 467 444/(+387) 33 

768 765, fax (+387) 33 768 768, a_omerbasic@yahoo. 

com. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 / 14:00 - 18:00. 

University of Sarajevo Clinical Centre C-3, 

Bolnička 25, tel. (+387) 33 29 70 00/(+387) 33 66 

66 20, fax (+387) 33 44 18 15, info@kcus.net, www. 

kcus.net. 

Dentists 

Dental Office Dr. Elma Hojkurić Paromlinska 40, tel. 

(+387) 33 654 024/(+387) 61 497 227, elmahojkuric@ 

hotmail.com, www.dr-elma.com. 

Dental Surgery Bičakčić B-3, Maršala Tita 7, tel./ 

fax (+387) 33 208 288. 

Dental Surgery Dr. Begeta C-3, Ćemaluša 4/II, 

tel./fax (+387) 33 225 257, tel. (+387) 61 148 148, 

ordinacija@begeta.ba, www.begeta.ba. 

Dr. Edin Muhić Splitska 3, tel./fax (+387) 33 21 

47 06, dr.edin@lsinter.net, www.ordinacijamuhic. 

ba. 

Dr. Hatidza Foco B-3; B-4, Dzenetica Cikma 10/II, 

tel. (+387) 33 218 057, info@drfoco.com, www. 

ortodoncija.com.ba. 

Dr. Lejla Cerić-Džaferović D-2, Patriotske lige 43, 

tel. (+387) 61 360 195, ordinacija@drlejla.com, www. 

drlejla.com. 

Dry Cleaners 

Dry Cleaners (Hemijska čistiona Boos) B-3, 

Tabašnica 11, tel. (+387) 33 215 735, fax (+387) 

33 221 378. 

Dry Cleaners (Hemijska čistiona Fleka) 

Paromlinska 2, tel. (+387) 33 614 220. 

Government 

Agency for Privatization in FBiH B-2; B-3; C-2; 

D-2, Alipasina 41, tel. (+387) 33 212 884/(+387) 33 

212 885, fax (+387) 33 212 883, apfbih@bih.net.ba, 

www.apf.com.ba. 

Commission to Preserve National Monuments 

B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 1, tel. (+387) 33 276 760, 

fax (+387) 33 276 768, aneks8ko@bih.net.ba, www. 

aneks8komisija.com.ba. 

Council Of Ministers B-2, Trg BiH 1, tel. (+387) 

33 211 581/(+387) 33 663 519, fax (+387) 33 

205 347, mmicevska@vijeceministara.gov.ba, www. 

vijeceministara.gov.ba. 

Federal Ministry Of Finance B-3, Mehmeda Spahe 5, 

tel. (+387) 33 253 532/(+387) 33 253 400, fax (+387) 

33 663 920, info@fmf.gov.ba, www.fmf.gov.ba. 

Federal Office of Statistics B-4, Zelenih Beretki 

26, tel./fax (+387) 33 66 45 53, fedstat@fzs.ba, 

www.fzs.ba. 

Foreign Investment Promotion Agency for BiH 

B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 21/III, tel. (+387) 33 278 

080, fax (+387) 33 278 081, fipa@fipa.gov.ba, www. 

fipa.gov.ba/. 

Government of Federation of Bosnia and 

Herzegovina B-2; B-3; C-2; D-2, Alipasina 41, tel. 

(+387) 33 212 986, fax (+387) 33 220 437, info@ 

fbihvlada.gov.ba, www.fbihvlada.gov.ba. 

Ministry of Civil Affairs B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 

1, tel. (+387) 33 221 073, kabinet.ministra@mcp.gov. 

ba, www.mcp.gov.ba. 

Ministry of Foreign Affairs B-3, Musala 2, tel. (+387) 

33 281 100, fax (+387) 33 472 188, info@mvp.gov. 

ba, www.mfa.gov.ba. Useful and up to date information, 

including the principles of BiH foreign policy, diplomatic 

and other activities of the MFA, and diplomatic - consular 

missions, as well as other necessary and useful information, 

such as issuing of traveling documentation of Bosnia and 

Herzegovina, or visas information. 

Ministry of Justice of Bosnia and Herzegovina 

B-2, Trg Bosne i Hercegovine 1, tel. (+387) 33 223 

505, fax (+387) 33 223 507, kontakt@mpr.gov.ba, 

www.mcp.gov.ba. 

Presidency Of BiH B-3, Musala 9, tel. (+387) 33 555 

691, www.predsjednistvobih.ba. 

Insurance Companies 

Sarajevo Osiguranje B-3, Čobanija 14, tel. (+387) 

33 203 270, info@sarajevoosiguranje.ba, www. 

sarajevoosiguranje.ba. 

UNIQA Osiguranje B-2, Fra Anđela Zvizdovića 1, 

tel. (+387) 33 295 500, fax (+387) 33 295 541, info@ 

uniqa.ba, www.uniqa.ba. 

Language Courses 

Interlingua B-3, Skenderija 35, tel. (+387) 33 710 

490/(+387) 33 710 491, fax (+387) 33 572 961, 

info@ihsarajevo.ba, www.interlingua.ba. Interlingua 

has become a member of The International House- 

World Organisation. The International House World 

Organisation (IHWO) is a network of language schools 

worldwide that are committed to implementing high 

standards of quality and innovation in education and training. 

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 

Soroš School for Foreign Languages B-3, Maršala 

Tita 19/III,, tel./fax (+387) 33 44 44 88, osf@soros. 

org.ba, www.soros.org.ba. The School organizes courses 

in English, French, German and Italian for adults and children, 


and preparatory courses for TOEFL and IELTS tests. It also 

offers both individual and courses tailored for the needs of 

companies and organizations. There are also courses in 

Bosnian language for the foreign citizens in B&H. 

Chambers of Commerce 

American Chamber of Commerce in Bosnia and 

Hercegovina B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4, tel. (+387) 

33 269 230, fax (+387) 33 269 232, amcham@lol.ba, 

www.amcham.ba. 

BiH Chamber of Commerce Branislava Đurđeva 10, 

tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 292, cis@ 

komorabih.ba, www.komorabih.ba. 

Chamber of Economy of Sarajevo Canton B-3, La 

Benevolencija 8, tel. (+387) 33 250 100, fax (+387) 

33 250 137, webmaster@pksa.com.ba, www.pksa. 

com.ba. 

Foreign Trade Chamber of BiH B-3, Branislava 

Đurđeva 10, tel. (+387) 33 663 370, fax (+387) 33 214 

292, j.lasic@kfbih.com, www.kfbih.com. 

Lawyers and Consultants 

Beganović-Žutić Mirsada B-3, Radićeva 2, tel. 

(+387) 33 219 225, h_zutic@bih.net.ba. 

Crnalić Asim B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 20, tel. (+387) 

61 208 683/(+387) 33 206 580. 

Eterović Amila B-3, Branilaca Sarajeva 10/III, tel./ 

fax (+387) 33 215 430, tel. (+387) 33 207 434, info@ 

aketerovic.com, www.aketerovic.com. 

Media 

BHT Television Bulevar Meše Selimovića 12, tel. 

(+387) 33 455 211, www.bhrt.ba. Public service 

broadcasting TV station in Bosnia and Herzegovina. 

Bosnia Daily B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 4/X, tel. 

(+387) 33 288 035/(+387) 33 288 034, bdaily@ 

megatel.ba, www.bosniadaily.co.ba. Online newspaper 

in English focusing on Economics and Politics. 

Dnevni Avaz Newspaper Džemala Bijedića 185, tel. 

(+387) 33 281 490, redakcija@avaz.ba, www.avaz. 

ba. A daily newspaper. 

Oslobođenje Džemala Bijedića 185, tel. (+387) 33 

276 900/(+387) 33 467 723, www.oslobodjenje. 

com.ba. 

Sarajevo Prime Television Bulevar Mese Selimovica 

12, tel. (+387) 33 776 777/(+387) 33 776 770, 

pitajte@tvsa.ba, www.tvsa.ba. 

NGOs 

Budi moj prijatelj (Be my friend) D-2, Patriotske lige 

24, tel. (+387) 33 668 660, www.budimojprijatelj.com. 

Fondacija Mozaik A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 

33 266 480, fax (+387) 33 266 482, info@mozaik.ba, 

www.mozaik.ba. Mozaik is a community development 

foundation that provides grants and advisory support to 

local initiatives of common interest throughout Bosnia and 

Herzegovina. 

Infohouse A-3; B-3, Soukbunar 42, tel. (+387) 33 227 

614/(+387) 61 525 054, infohouse@infohouse.ba, 

www.infohouse.ba, www.ljudskaprava.ba. 

Nansen Dijalog Centar C-2, Hakije Kulenovića 

10, tel. (+387) 33 273 461/(+387) 33 556 846, fax 

(+387) 33 556 845, office@ndcsarajevo.org, www. 

ndcsarajevo.org. 

Save the Children Hamdije Cemerlica 2/14, tel. 

(+387) 33 719 485. 


direCtory 

Sos Kinderdorf Semira Frašte bb., tel. (+387) 33 

465 323/(+387) 33 465 218, fax (+387) 33 465 218, 

soskind@smartnet.ba, lamija.turcilo@smartnet.ba, 

www.sos-ds.ba. 

Notaries 

Mušir Brkić Rustem Papina 41/II, Ilidža, tel. (+387) 

33 763 455, mbrkic@bih.net.ba. 

Nasiha Alić , tel. (+387) 33 766 245, naca124@ 

gnet.ba. 

Opticians 

Oftalmološka ordinacija Dr. Sefić B-4, Ferhadija 

5/1, tel. (+387) 33 210 212, fax (+387) 33 210 125, 

ordinacija@sefic.ba, www.sefic.ba. 

Optika Baroš B-4, Ferhadija 30, tel. (+387) 33 573 

900, fax (+387) 33 201 860, info@optikabaros.ba, 

www.optikabaros.ba. 

Optika Loris Topal Osman paše 32, tel. (+387) 33 715 

520, fax (+387) 33 715 522, optikaloris@bih.net.ba, 

www.optikaloris.ba. 

Optika Nur Velika avlija 12, tel. (+387) 61 529 894, 

info@optika.ba, www.optika.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00 

/ 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 

Optika Oculto B-3, Šenoina 12, tel./fax (+387) 33 

666 333, info@oculto.ba, www.oculto.ba. 

Pharmacies 

Apoteka Baščaršija B-4, Obala Kulina bana 40, 

tel. (+387) 33 272 300/(+387) 33 272 301, www. 

apoteke-sarajevo.ba. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 

08:00 - 22:00. 

Apoteka Marijin Dvor B-3, Maršala Tita 1, tel. (+387) 

33 714 280. 

Apoteka Novo B-1; B-2, Zmaja od Bosne 51, tel. 

(+387) 33 713 830/(+387) 33 713 831, informativna@ 

apoteke-sarajevo.ba, www.apoteke-sarajevo.ba. 

QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 

Biljna apoteka Matija Paunovski B-4, Zelenih 

beretki 28, tel./fax (+387) 33 626 200, info@ 

a p o t e k a m a t i j a . b a , w w w . a p o t e k a m a t i j a . 

ba. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. 

Closed Sun. 

Real Estate 

Artis C-3, Hadži Idrizova 6, tel. (+387) 33 222 

506/(+387) 61 148 810, prodaja@nekretnineartis.ba, 

narudjba@nekretnineartis.ba, www.nekretnineartis. 

ba. 

Prostor d.o.o B-4, Zelenih Beretki 30, tel. (+387) 

33 570 555, fax (+387) 33 570 556, info@prostor.ba, 

www.prostor.ba. 

SigenX B-3, Plato Skenderije, tel. (+387) 33 667 727, 

info@sigenx.com, www.sigenx.com. 

Relocations 

A u t o p r evo z n i k Te l . (+ 3 87 ) 6 1 74 9 5 6 1 , 

dajaktransport@gmail.com. 

Centrotrans International Džemala Bijedića 

153, tel. (+387) 33 457 103/(+387) 62 134 714, 

centrotransmt@bih.net.ba. 

Intereuropa RTC Halilovići 12, tel. (+387) 33 

465 054, damir.arapovic@intereuropa.ba, www. 

intereuropa.ba. 

Autumn 2009 

43

44 street register 

A.Zvizdovića B2 

Avde Jabučice B2 

A. Šahinagića B4 

Alifakovac B5 

Alije Bejtića B5 

Antuna Hangija C2 

Avde Hume C2 

Alipašina B2,B3,C2,D2 

Armaganuša C3 

Arapova C4 

Ašikovac C4 

Adžemoviæa C4 

Asima Ferhatovića D3 

Alije Nametka D4 

Branilaca Sarajeva B3 

Bakarevića B4 

Bistrik B4,A4 

Bistrik potok B4,A4 

Brdo džamije B4 

Bentbaša B5 

Braće Morić B5 

Bolnička C3 

Brdakčije C3,D1,D4 

Bjelave C3 

Braće Eskenazi C4 

Bakije sokak C5 

Breka D3 

Budakovići D4 

Crni vrh B2,B3 

Ciglane C2 

Curak C3 

Cadordžina C4 

Carina C5 

Ćebešije donje C5 

Čobanija B3 

Čeljugovići B5 

Čekaluša C3 

Čemerlina C4 

Dolina B2 

Danijela Ozme B3 

Dol B5 

Dajanli Ibrahim-bega C2 

Derebent C3 

Dola C3 

Ðenetića č. B3,B4 

Dž. Čauševića B3 

Džidžikovac B3,C3 

Džinina C4 

Emerika Bluma A2 

Ejuba Ademovića B3 

F. Račkog B2 

Ferhadija B4 

Vječna Vatra, or the Eternal Flame 

Franjevačka B4 

Grbavička A1 

Garaplina A4,B4 

Goruša B2 

Gorica B2,C2 

Gazi Husrev b. B4 

Gabelina C3 

Golobrdica C4 

Glođina C4 

Grličića brdo C5,D5 

Huremuša A4 

H. Dizdara A4 

Hiseta B2 

Hamdije Kreševljakovića B3 

H. Kikića B3 

Hadžiabdinica B4 

Hrvatin B4,B5 

Hošin brijeg B5 

Halida Kajtaza C1 

Hakije Kulenovića C2 

Husrefa Redžića C2 

Himzarina C3 

Halim-hodžina C4 

H.Kajimije C4 

Hadži-Jamakova C5 

Humka D4 

Hrastovi D4,D5 

Iza hrida B5 

I. Cankara C3 

Jezero B3 

Josipa Vancaša C3 

Josipa Štadlera C4 

Jekovac C5 

Jukićeva D2,C2 

Kovačića A2 

Kamenica A5 

Kranjčeviæa B1,B2 

Kalemova B2 

K. Hermana B2 

Kotromanića B2 

Kralja Tvrtka B2 

Kulovića B3 

Kovači B4,C4 

Konak B4 

Kačanik m. B5 

Kačanik v. B5 

Koševo C2,D2,C3,B3 

Kevrin potok C3 

Kartal C4 

Karpuzova C4 

Kečina C4 

Livanjska C2,D2 

Logavina C4 

Ljubušaka B3 

Mrakuša A3 

Magribija B2 

Mjedenica B3,B4 

Musala B3 

Mis Irbina B3 

Mehmeda Spahe B3 

Maršala Tita B3 

M.M.Bašeskije B4 

Megara B5 

M.Mujezinovića B5 

Muhameda Hadžijahića C2,D2 

Marija Mikulića C2 

Mandžina C3 

Mejtaš C3 

Mehmed-paše 

Sokolovića C3,C4 

Medresa C4 

Mandrina C4 

M. Handžića C4 

M.Čazima Čatića C4 

Mejlijina C4,C5 

Mišćina C5 

Mraovac C5 

Mlini C5 

Marcela Šnajdera D3 

Mihrivode D4,D5 

Nevesinjska A2 

Nova Tekija B2,B3 

Nadmlini B5 

Nevjestina B5 

Nalina B5 

Okrugla A4 

Omera Stupca B2 

Odobašina B2,C2 

Obala Maka Dizdara B3 

Obala Kulina Bana B4 

Obala Isa-bega Isakovića B4 

Očaktanum C4 

Put mladih Muslimana 

A2,A3,A4,B3,B4,B5 

Petrakijina B3,B4 

Pod bedemom B5,C5 

Podcarina B5 

Provare C3 

Pirin brijeg C4 

Potoklinica C4 

Potok C4 

Prijeka česma C5 

Ploča C5 

Radičeva B3 

Rizaha štetića C3 

Ramića sokak C5 

Ramić banja D5 

Rogina D5 

Soukbunar A3,B3 

Stolačka B3 

Skenderija B3 

Stake Skenderove B3 

Sarači B4 

S. Skarića B4 

Sutjeska C2,C3 

Sepetarevac C3 

Sarač Ismailova C3,C4 

Safvet bega-Bašagića C4 

Sunulah Efendije C4 

Sagrdžije C4 

Strošići C5 

Stjepana Tomića C3,D3 

Safeta Pašalića C3,D3 

Sedrenik D4,D5 

Skender Kulenovića D4,D5 

Streljačka D5 

Šenoina B3 

Šerina B5 

Šekerova C3,C4 

Šeih Mehmedova C3 

Širokac C5 

Terezija A2 

Terzibašina A4 

Tešanjska B1,B2,C2 

Tepebašina B2 

Tina Ujevića B3,C3 

Trčivode B5 

Tijesna C3,C4 

Turbe B5 

Vilsonovo šetalište B1,B2 

Vrbanja B2 

Valtera Perića B2 

V. Skarića B4 

Velešići C1 

Vojislava Kecmanovića C2,D2 

Višnjik C3 

Vrbanjuša C4 

Vinograd C5 

Vratnik C5 

Za beglukom A4,B4 

Zmaja od Bosne B1,B2 

Zelenih beretki B4 

Zaima Šarca C3 

Zatikuša C3,C4 

Zmajevac C5 

Žgarići A4 


ka 

9 10 1 1 

1 3 

SEDRENIK 

KOŠEVO 

Osmana Nakaša 

BBrraććee BBrčččiićććaa 

KKKaaukkkčiiijiiinnaa 

Panjjiina kkkula 

ka 

k 

B 

GGornjja Breka 

Asima Ferhhatovića 

Seddrenikk 

HHummkaa 

Brekkka 

Alijjje Nametkkka 

Marcela Šnajjjdera 

A 

Sedrenik 

RRamiićća banja 

Skendera Kulenovića 

BREKA 

HHrastovi 

Hasana Bibbera 

VVellešići GGoorrnnji 

HRASTOVI 

Rogina 

Allije N Nametkkka 

Streljačkka 

brdo 

Saafffeetta Paašššaaliiććća 

Fe 

AAsima Fe 

To 

SStjeppana TTo 

Mihrivode 

Buudddakkkoviiićććiii 

F rhhatovića 

T mićća 

Jukiććeva 

Grllliččićća 

Alijjje Naametka 

Vi Vi 

V nogg 

o radd 

og 

Medrese 

Brddakčije 

VVrbanjuša 

Manddrina in 

Zaima Šarca 

Bolnička 

VVojjjisllavaa Keeccmmannovvićća 

MMMuuhhameda Hadddžiijjahhhićća 

MM. BBehhhmena 

M.. BBehmena 

CCCiiglaannee 

LLiivaannjjjsskkaa 

Zmajevac 

Baššagića 

ŠŠŠeekerrovva 

ĆĆĆebbešijjje ddonjje 

BBBBakiiiiijjjjeeeee ssssooooookkkkkaaaaaak 

Pirin bbrijegg 

KKKarttall 

Viššnjikk 

Muuhhaamedda effenndiijjjee PPaanndžee 

ĆĆĆ.. SSiijaarriiććaa 

ŠŠejhhh-Mehmeedddovvaaa 

MMuuhhhammeddda eefeenndddiijjje PPaanndddžžee 

M. BBBehmena meIen 

In 

r šššiićiii 

MMejliijiinnaa 

AArraapova 

S ro 

ro 

SSSSSt St SSt SSt 

SSaafvveet-bega 

Ašššikkkovaac 

Mandddžžžiinaa 

PProvare 

Derebbent 

Husreefa Redžićća 

Av 

u a 

Golllobbbrdddica 

ZZZaatikkkuuššš uš uuš 

Himmzaarriinaa 

BBolnička 

A dde Hume 

SSSunuulllaahhh EEfffendiijjjee 

ČČČaadddordžiiinna 

MMM. HHHanddžiiiććća 

TTiijjjeesnna 

Dajjjanlli Ibrahhim-bbeggga 

PPrijekkkaa čessmmaa 

Ramiiććaa ssokaakk 

Mišććiina 

Džinina 

Bjellave 

GGGabbbeelllina 

AAAdddžeem em 

HHHakkkije Kullenoviča Av 

Mlini 

Carina 

VVrraattnniiik 

Plloočča 

SSaggrddžžije 

e ovića 

Širokac 

MMMraovac 

OOčakkkttaanuum 

LLoggaviina 

KKarpuzzovvaa 

Pehhllivanuša 

Curaak 

CC 

Pottoklinniica 

SSarač Ismaill lova 

ČČČekkalllušša 

SSeppeetaareevaacc 

AArmmagannuuša 

Antuna Hangijja 

Maarija Miikkkuullliičča 

PPPotokkk 

Kečiina 

Glođđđiina 

KKKeevriinn pootok 

DDoolllaa 

Riizahhhaa ŠŠŠtteettiiićććaa 

JJoosiipppaa VVanncaša 

KoševoKoševo 

AA ll ii pp a šš ii nn aa 

BAKIJE 

an 

HHaalllimm-hhhodžžžiina 

KOŠEVSKO 

BRDO 

iiv 

nn 

dddiijj 

arc 

hhm I 

VELEŠI VELEŠIĆIII VELEŠI 

Hadži-JJJ -J 

- amakkkoova 

d 

Vellešići 

RReeisa FFehhhiima SSSpahe 

MM 

BJELAVE 

VRATNIK 

HH. Kaimmijjje 

Brraaćććee Esskeenazziii 

o llliiije 

CIGLANE 

ov 

k v 

ko 

I. SSSamokkko 

HHaaliida Kajtazaa 

KKrivvaajsskaa 

KOVA KOVAČČČIII 

RRuđđđera Boškovićća 

III.. CCCaankkkara 

Čemerrllinna 

Jekovac 

M.. Ćazimmaa ĆĆĆaattiććća 

aa 

MMejttaš 

SSutjjjeskkaa 

MMMeehmmeed-p aašššee SSSokkkolovviićććaa 

MEJTAŠ 

TTeššanjjjsska 

Ispoddd gggrada 

DDool 

Pod beedem moom 

Kovači 

HHHrgggića 

JJosiipppa ŠŠŠttadddlllera 

TTTiiinnaa UUjaaviiććća 

Ljubbbušakkka 

Goorica 

NNNNNNadmmmliinii 

T ee j i kk ss ee šš a B tt a f ss e u M a lll uu MM M 

A l i pp a šš i n a 

CRNI VRH 

mm 

Petrakijiina 

Oddobašina 

KKoonnjjjička 

Humska 

Crni vrhhh 

Nevjjestiina 

ĐĐĐeneeetttiiića ččč. 

Stakkke Skkkenddderoovvee 

Džiddžikovac 

B e nn tt b aaa šš a 

H.. Kiikkkićććaa 

MMehmmeddda Spaahhhee 

JJJeezero 

Ivanjska 

u 

Omera Stupca 

Sara 

GGGazzi HHusrev HHH 

Huus 

sr bbb.. 

ARŠIJAr r 

BAŠ BAŠČARŠIJA 

ARŠIJA 

DDDDaniiijela OOOzmee 

A dddee JJJaabučicce 

AAAvv Av AAv 

Kalemova 

Ferhadijja 

Tepppebbbašššiiina 

TTTeeššannjjjsskkka 

ARŠIJAre 

ARŠIJAe 

ARŠIJAev 

ARŠIJAv 

ARŠIJAv 

A K C A J L I MM Pooddccaarrinnaa a 

Kranjjjččevićća 

Alijje Bejjtića 

AAAliifffaaakkkovvac 

Megara 

ČČČeljjugovićći 

AAA. ŠŠŠahiiinagiććća ŠŠŠahinag 

Zelenih beretki 

ĆĆĆĆema aluššša a 

Kulovića K l 

ć 

MM aa rr šš aa l a TT ii t aa 

GORICA 

GGG 

GG oruššaa 

Goo 

K A 

C B 

Ca B 

arBriBi 

Bi 

CCC B 

T ee ll aa l ii 

ači 

e 

A 

b etki 

A 

n 

Obalaa Isaa-begggaa Isakkovića 

Branilaca Saa 

ŠŠŠenoina 

a 

S rajjeva 

Sa 

Raddiććeva 

ss 

Mis Irbinaa 

Muussallla 

ž 

M 

Kranjčevića 

Braće Morić 

a 

Džžž. Čauššševiiiććća 

Magggriiibbbbbiiija 

Konnaak 

OO bb aa l a K uu l ii n aa bb aa nn aa 

Dooliinaa Dool 

VVValtera Periiiććća 

KKKraaljaa Tv Tv T rrttkkkaa 

A. Zvizdovića 

MARIJIN 

DVOR 

FFFranccaa Lehaarraa 

Trrčiivoode 

FFranjevačkka 

OObala Makaa Dizdaarraa 

HHamdddijjje KKreševllljjjakoviićća 

Kačaniiikkk v. 

nn 

M. Mujezinovića 

H i s e tt a 

Hrvatin Hrvat 

ŠŠŠ Š 

HRID 

Bakarevićeva 

SSSSSS. SSSSSkkkkkkarićććććaaaa 

SKENDERIJA 

Z m a j a o d B o s n e 

HHoššin bbrijjegg 

KKKačččanniiik m. 

eerriinaa 

BBistrikk 

K.. Hermmaanaa 

FFF. RRRačččkkkogg 

Haadžiaabdddiiniicaa 

EEEjjjubbba AdddemovićććaMMjeddeenniicca 

SKENDERIJAni 

baan 

Čobb oob 

bb a 

a 

Skenderijjja 

ijj 

kee 

d 

Skkk 

kk 

SSS 

d i 

SKENDERIJAij 

SKENDERIJAjj 

SKENDERIJAjj 

SKENDERIJAja 

SKENDERIJAa 

Kotromanića 

K 

Turbbe 

Brdddo Džžžamijaa 

Stolaččkka 

NNNoovaa 

Tekkkkkkijjjjjaa 

ŽŽŽgggarićććiii 

SSSSSooouukkkbunnaarr PPPoodddgggajjj 

Vrbanjja 

Nalina 

BBBistrikkk ppottok 

Kollodvorskka 

HHuremušaIza hhrida 

P u t m ll a dd ii h M u s l i m a n a 

BISTRIK 

TT e r e z ii jj a 

Villsonovo šetalište 

h 

Garappllina 

M I L J A C K A 

MAHMUTOVAC 

MMraakuušaa 

Grbbavviiččkkaa 

Kamenica 

i aa TTe errzzibašinaa 

Za begllukom 

MM u s ll i m a n a 

r cc 

ic 

maa 

H D 

eri ri 

ŠIROKA ŠIROKAČA 

ŠIROKA 

Mrakkk 

H a m d i j e Č e m e r ll ii ćć a 

J 

m 

in 

čićaa Neveessinjska

50 index 


Unique books from 

Ireland 

(and 21 other prizes) 

Complete our latest readership survey at inyourpocket.com/survey 

and we’ll enter you in our prize draw: the winner gets something 

priceless and unique from every country currently In Your Pocket. 


N°95 - 6Lt 


VILNIUS 

Užupis 

A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’ 

distinctly eccentric 

independent republic 

Vingio Parkas 

From Tolstoy to rollerblades, 

the city’s favourite park is 

pulled apart and examined 

AAugust t - S SSeptember t b 2009 


WARSAW 

N°52 

Poland - 5�� (w tym 7% VAT) 

UK - £5 

EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 

warsaw.inyourpocket.com 

ISSN 1641-5264 


“In “I “In In Your Pocket: 

written wr writ itt series of guidebooks.” 

After the Battle 

Warsaw Uprising 70 

years on 

The Mouth of 

Old Town 

Warsaw‘s Barbican 


BELFAST 

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

NORTHERN 

IRELAND 

HIGHLIGHTS & 

HIDDEN GEMS 

inyourpocket.com/survey 

Including 

N°13 



Aug - Sep 2007 

Better by 

design 

Stunning souvenirs, 

stylish shopping and 

local crafts on display 

The Great 

Outdoors 

Feel the burn, catch the 

waves, take a hike 


Northern Ireland on a 

plate 


N°48 - 100 K� 


PRAGUE 

December 2008 - January 2009 

Christmas 

Markets 

Gifts galore 

Winter Chill Out 

Massage and more

Get In Your Pocket before you go 

The full In Your Pocket range is available to purchase online at: 

www.inyourpocket.com/clickandbuy 


N°4 - 400 lek 


TIRANA 

2006 - 2007 

Shopping fever 

Tirana’s first malls 

Facade art 

Painting the city pink 


N°41 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) 


ISSN 1508-2334 

N°23 - €1.75 


KRAKÓW 



BERLIN 


Tarnów 

Explore the Pearl of the 

Renaissance 

Leisure 

Getting active in Kraków 

Museum night 

100 museums in one 

night 

Floating the 

boat 

Spree river tours 


N°1 - Complimentary copy 


SKOPJE 

2006 - 2007 

Skopje 

snapshots 

The Marubi photo 

collection 

Around town 

Daytrips to the lake, 

beach and mountains 


BUCHAREST 

N°40 - 8.00 lei 



N°47 - 35kr 


TALLINN 



A New Look 

We‘ve never looked 

better: In Your Pocket 

gets a makeover 

Blogging 

Bucharest 

Our guide to the best 

politically incorrect 

comment online 

Touring Narva 

Cool sights at the EU‘s 

eastern border 

IYP gets a new 

look 

The inside scoop on the 

new look inside 


N°20 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) 


ISSN 1640-3592 

N°23 - €1.75 


GDAŃSK 

August - November 2006 


FRANKFURT 


Including 

SOPOT & GDYNIA 

Kashubia 

Exploring the Polish Alps 

Hot spots 

The Baltic’s Beaches 

Beach bars 

Cocktail in hand, toes 

in sand 

Dram tram 

Sipping ebbelwei on the 

cider express 


N°34 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) 


ISSN 1641-5264 


N°7 - Free copy 



N°60 - 1.20Ls 


WARSAW 


BELFAST 


RIGA 


Wilanów 

Explore the Polish 

Versailles 

Out of town 

Poland‘s top spa town: 

Nałęczów 

The Great 

Outdoors 

Cycling, skydiving and 

country pursuits 


Seafood, whiskey and 

St. George’s Market 

Hockey Fever 

Everything you need to 

know about IIHF World 

Championship in Riga 

Explore Latvia 

Take a day trip to 

the seaside towns of 

Jūrmala and Liepāja 


N°1 - Complimentary copy 


SHKODRA 

2006 - 2007 

Shkodra 

snapshots 

The Marubi photo 

collection 

Around town 

Daytrips to the lake, 

beach and mountains 


ST. PETERSBURG 

April 2006 N°24 


NEW 

LOOK! 

April 2006 

Easter Greetings 

Egg breaking & church 

walking… 

Russian in Russia 

The best ways to discover 

the language 

Culture & Events 

Simple Minds, t.A.T.u. & 

Cosmonaut’s Day 


COLOGNE 




River tours 

Wine and dine on the 

Rhine 

N°1 





HAMBURG 

N°1 




Harbour tours 

Down in the docks 





N°1 - €3 


PRISTINA 

2006 - 2007 




Feature 2 - max 

2 lines 

Short description of the 

feature. Should be max. 

3 lines. 


N°34 - 100 Kč 


PRAGUE 


Going to the 

chapel 

Karlštejn’s renovated 

jewel 

Let’s rock 

Visiting the Bohemian 

Paradise 


N°2 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) 


ISSN 1896-1169 

N°1 



ŁÓDŹ 

September - December 2006 

Hollyłódź 

Poland‘s cinema city 

Stars in your 

eyes 

From Polanski to Max 

Factor, read about the 

famous natives. 


KAISERSLAUTERN 





Going Palatine 

Strolling in the forest

SARAJEVO - In Your Pocket

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?