51 - In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
N°4
www.inyourpocket.com
CagliaRi
august - September 2012
20
Europe’s best city
guides for more than
20 years
Summer & the City
Enjoy the sea,
shopping and music
European Jazz Expo
A 3-day festival
in Monte Claro Park
agriturismo
Take a break in the
Sardinian countryside

Bomb Boogie
Brian Dales
Calvin Klein
Canali
Carlo Pignatelli
Catbalou
Cesare Paciotti
Corneliani
Diesel
Emporio Armani
Gai Mattiolo
Gas
Geo Spirit
Gran Sasso
Guess Jeans
Henry Cotton's
Ingram
Jeckerson
Manuel Ritz Pipo
Moncler
North Sails
Peter And Sons
Peuterey
Piero Gazzarrini
Refrigue
Rocco Barocco Camiceria
Romeo Gigli
Sanremo
Siviglia
Sun 68
Take Two
Trussardi Jeans
Versace
w w w . g r u p p o c o l l u . i t
Cagliari
Via dei Giudicati, 35
Tel. 070.401720
Assemini
Via Amsicora, 18
Tel. 070.946108
Serramanna
Via E.Lussu, 50
Tel. 070.9139081

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Contents
Foreword 6
A Summer of Sea, Shopping and
Music 7
Arriving & Basics 9
History 12
Culture & Events 13
Where to stay 14
Restaurants 22
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Cafés 24
Nightlife 25
What to see 28
Getting around 34
Shopping 36
Lifestyle Directory 38
Maps & Index
Street index 40
Transport map 42-43
City map 44-45
City centre map 46-47
Map of Sardinia 48-49
Index 50
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2012
5

6 Foreword
“Cagliari, Your Excellency, is incomparable” declared a former
Mayor from behind his desk in the city’s Town Hall. And the
distinguished British diplomat nodded his head in polite
agreement, murmuring to me “not even with, say, Palermo?”
Personally, we had to visit Sicily’s capital, Palermo - a city in any
case often mentioned by strangers to Italy in the same breath
as Cagliari - to make us realize the latter’s particular qualities.
For comparisons need not always be odious.
If Palermo is an ageing noblewoman, Cagliari is a comfortably
off, respectable middle-aged housewife. Palermo possesses a
golden past and a crepuscular present, where danger seems
to peer out from every broken doorway and shuttered window.
Or as Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa in his masterpiece
The Leopard, wrote: “here, one dies before one is dead”.
Cagliari’s broken doorways - not that there are any of course!
- are unlikely to reveal anything more disagreeable than
empty bottles of Ichnusa beer and a couple of slumberous
cockroaches.
Apart from the city’s dramatic and intrinsically beautiful
topography, in artistic and architectural terms, while Cagliari as
a whole perhaps fails to impress, any number of its component
parts - here, an archway, a façade, a reredos; there, a tower,
a tomb, a turret - are capable of expressing all the secular
charm and dramatic beauty one would expect of a coastal
city in the middle of the southern Mediterranean. Palermo is
grandiloquent, imperial, decayed. In part contrast, Cagliari’s
palazzi and churches, convents and chapels, squares and
parks are tame, retiring and provincial. Mistakenly it tends to
be overlooked by art and architectural historians.
The mood and tones of a place are, however, of equal
importance. Palermo’s salient spirit is one of belligerent
fatalism. Cagliari has an altogether sunnier disposition.
Mind you, on occasions, life here can be pretty frenetic and
its inhabitants on the pushy side - for instance at the traffic
lights or in the fish market.
Essentially though the city’s life and soul are characterized
by the sweetest and most profound indolence - laid back to
the point of total arrest - a topographical stretcher case. But
who cares? Especially now it’s hot-hot summer and you’re
on you hols. Lie back and relax.
So, off to the seaside then! Which of course, unless you
have a car to zoom elsewhere in, and if you are staying in
Cagliari, means Poetto beach, five miles of golden - white
sand, quiet waves, sparkling horizons and a merry series
of jolly bar-kiosks.
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Cagliari In Your Pocket
Via Ugo Foscolo 11/6b
16121 Genoa, Italy
Tel. (+39) 010 844 38 29
Fax (+39) 010 844 38 30
italia@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
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Printed by Grafiche Ghiani S.r.l., Monastir,
Italy
Maps Comune di Cagliari, CTM S.p.A.
Editorial
Editor in Chief Maria Marongiu
Contributors Peter Gregory-Jones,
Lorenzo Marsano
Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė
Cover photo
G. Alvito - Teravista, courtesy of
Comune di Cagliari
Sales & Circulation
Sales Management
EMA S.a.s., Anna Puxeddu
Project Manager Lorenzo Marsano
Special Thanks Tiziana Ciocca,
Antonina Gaspa, Victoria Heward,
Carlo Andrea Marsano, Federico
Marsano, Rosa Olcese, ASD Borgo
Incrociati
In Loving Memory Carlo Schiroli
Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Cagliari
n. 4 del 27/1/2012
Responsabile del trattamento dati
(legge 675/96): Lorenzo Marsano
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Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

A Summer of SeA, Shopping And muSic
Goodness! What a busy month or so we’re in for!
Cagliari has always been colourful; thanks to Notti Colorate
(‘coloured nights’ in Italian), this Summer it’s coloured too.
Every Thursday night till August 30th, Cagliari’s shopkeepers,
antiques and local craft stallholders, restaurateurs and
publicans, encouraged and co-ordinated by the municipal
authorities, will be proposing a different theme colour. In
the order chosen, these will be: sky-blue, bright orange, sunyellow,
fucsia-pink, whitest white, emerald green and firey
red - the colours of life. Shops will put on special displays
while restaurants will be offering ingenious thematic menus
as well as their best traditional dishes. So never fear: blue
spaghetti is unlikely.
Why not join in? Live the theme! Wear a pair of day-glow
orange socks; carry dozens of pink shopping bags; slap on
some white make-up, dye your hair a post-punk mottled
A Word from our Mayor
The history and the archaeology, the environment, the sea
and architectural beauty. The beach and marshland, the
lagoon and the hills. The narrow streets in the old town,
from Marina up to Castello, strolling through Villanova and
Stampace. The smells and tastes. Craft and art. They all tell
us about the traditions but also the city’s desire for a future.
It’s not easy to describe Cagliari in just a few lines, even
for someone like me who was born and bred here. Because
Cagliari is a beautiful city, sunny and full of light. It’s
the gateway to Sardinia in the heart of the Mediterranean
Sea: thanks to its location, our city is a crossroads for
sounds, colours and flavours. Multi-ethnic. Open and
welcoming, because this is how we are in Cagliari.
Welcoming, but also ready to face the challenges that
the future poses. Cagliari is a lively, ever-changing city.
Just like this guidebook: take it around with you, study
the itineraries it suggests, visit the places, follow advice
on hotels, restaurants, shops, workshops and venues,
take notes of events, exhibitions and shows on our
cultural agenda.
So read it well and keep it in your pocket. And raise your
eyes and noses from these pages: watch the colours
and enjoy the smells in Cagliari. For how ever well this
guidebook may be written - and In Your Pocket really is
well written - it’s you and your memories, once back in
your homes, that will be the best ambassadors for our
city across the world.
Welcome to Cagliari!
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Massimo Zedda
Mayor
© A. Saba
green? No-one’s going to care; everyone’s going to notice.
And if every Thursday Cagliari becomes the rainbow capital
of Sardinia, the city is also bending and stretching time,
with night remaining day, as many of the town-centre shops
extending their opening hours till midnight. But don’t worry,
when the clocks strike twelve carriages will not change back
to pumpkins, or horses to mice (there were never any ugly
sisters in the first place). Instead, we’ll be seeing the merry
multi-coloured night-shoppers sauntering homewards in
the slowest of slow motion. Very Cagliari to saunter. Others
will be striding out more purposefully on their way to one or
more of Cagliari’s pullulating pubs (good live music) or clubs
(snappy DJs). For these watering-holes and dancing venues
midnight has in any case long been cranking-up time: not
the bewitching hour. Barmen are still crushing ice and slicing
lemons and limes (the latter very fashionable of late) while the
music men dust their turntables and the cube-girls wriggle
into garments that only the most generous or misled could
actually describe as clothes.
However, for all the novelty of this nocturnal commerce, shopping
in Cagliari can still present surprises. For instance there
is the business of language. Despite the vogue for English
language courses, those people who have, or who work in
shops are curiously reluctant to show off what a great many
of them have learnt. Evidently, one studies rather than uses
a foreign language.
Italy would not be Italy without those splendid waiters and
shop-assistants who greet one with a reckless “Bye-bye,
mister”, before continuing with mounting abandon: “how do
you are at all, very well?” But Sardinia would not be Sardinia
without the absence of all that magnificent nonsense. Nevertheless,
this shyness about speaking foreign languages is a
definite handicap for an island, which, in so many other ways,
is making such herculean efforts to attract overseas visitors.
August - September 2012
7

8 A Summer of SeA, Shopping And muSic
Moreover, despite the smart wide-awake shops open until
late, as well as the existence of the usual supermarkets,
hypermarkets, commercial malls, an older shopping world
lingers on in a city where the past seems to impinge so little
on its neophiliac present. While they survive we strongly
advise a visit to one of the old-fashioned corner shops dotted
about town (and not only in the historic quarters).
Dark, poky and eccentrically-ventilated, these are the places,
where the ever-courteous Signor Efisio and Signora Efisia
dispense dragon-shaped bread, gossip and yesterday’s lettuce.
Their prices are wildly ambitious and their cleanliness
occasionally approximate, but there is never any question or
doubt over their willingness to oblige, serve or humour their
all too few and their often all too critical customers. Belittled
by the boutique-keepers and harrassed by tax inspectors,
this new decade will probably be their last. When they sell
up they will be richer for it: Cagliari the poorer. But for as long
as they struggle on - twisting rough paper into triangular
bags and slicing bacon on machines forged in Edwardian
Sheffield - shopping in Cagliari will remain a pleasure as
well as an ordeal.
Interestingly, there is perhaps the stirrings of a backlash
against the socio-commercial uniformity and standardization
which has in recent decade been whipping so mindlessly
across Sardinia, as elsewhere in Europe and the U.S.A.
One result is that in Cagliari the corso Vittorio Emanuele, the
old high street of the historic Stampace quarter, has taken
on a fresh lease of life after decades of dank and dusty
decay. Beginning almost grandly in piazza Yenne (there is
a particularly fine, rather French-looking granite palazzo
opposite the bar Oblomov), the corso narrows dramatically
after its junction with via Sassari, and continues in two gentle
curves for perhaps half a mile.
Apart from the long-established ‘useful’ shops (butchers,
bakers, barbers, iron- and fishmongers), many of which have
of late received long-needed licks of paint, there are several
© Portus Karalis
thriving trattorias and bars, several reasonably-priced jewellers
and antique dealers, two well-stocked bookshops, and
a place which sells decent (i.e. untouristy!) Sardinian craft
goods. Wedged gamefully between these and other shops
are the remaining Stampacean workshops. Here, much to the
disdainful amusement of their haughtier rivals in Villanova,
carpenters, cabinet-makers and French polishers are all
working flat out to satisfy the demand for restored English
(1920s oak) furniture.
“Oak”, sniffs a septuagenarian artisan in via San Giovanni,
“can, I suppose, be acceptable - for the bottom of a wardrobe
perhaps;” chuckling merrily, he turns back to the ebony and
rosewood Louis XVI card-table which he’d been polishing
since before dawn.
Brace yourself for the roar and the reek of the traffic - for the
corso is now almost the only narrow, pre-twentieth century
street to remain a principal thoroughfare - but do visit this
egregious yet picturesque hotchpotch of old and new.
This summer not only will shops be open until midnight on
Thursdays as well as handicraft, food and wine markets
(especially evocative those in piazza San Giacomo), but also
the city’s museums and art galleries. This is an absolute
and highly applaudable novelty; previously, ‘official’ Cagliari
tended not to participate in the initiatives such as earlier
years’ ‘Shopping Under the Stars’ fostered by the city’s commercial
sector. Which was tiresome not just for lovers of art
and architecture who otherwise had to forego the seaside or
out-of-town day trips, but also for those people who simply
don’t want another pair of shoes or ‘witty’ t-shirt.
So; guys and dolls, lads and lasses, go for it!
Order that extra round; visit all six museums and - oh, all right
then! - treat yourself to those shoes providing one is orange
the other yellow. Colour your life, Cagliari style.
STOP PRESS. Don’t miss the Castello light-shows in mid and
latest August or the Fish Festival at Sant’Elia and Giorgino,
“Cuccurus Cottu”.
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Arriving by plane
Cagliari-Elmas Airport E-1, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas,
tel. (+39) 070 21 12 11, fax (+39) 070 24 10 13, www.
cagliariairport.it. Located about 7km from the city centre, it
is the biggest and busiest airport in Sardinia. It has conference
facilities, postal services, ATMs, Wi-Fi, a tourist information
desk and a small selection of shops and food outlets. Getting
to Cagliari is fairly easy. It takes between 10-15 minutes by
taxi (€15-€25), and add just a few more minutes if travelling
by bus. Regional transport bus company ARST operates from
airport to the bus station. Regular bus fare is €1.20 if ticket
bought in advance, €1.70 if purchased on board.
Arriving by train
Trenitalia serves all major Sardinian destinations, such as
Oristano (a c. 1hr 30 mins journey) and Sassari (c. 3hrs),
as well as ferry ports Olbia (c. 3hrs 30mins) and Porto
Torres (c. 4hrs).
Train Station (Stazione ferroviaria) B-4, via Roma
22, tel. 199 89 20 21, www.trenitalia.it. The station is
just a few steps away from the city centre. It has an ATM,
a bar and a newsagent’s shop. There are no left luggage
facilities. Tickets must be clipped before boarding the train.
Q Ticket office open 06:50 - 20:00.
Arriving by bus
All buses arrive at the ARST bus station, which is located
directly in front of the train station. All major Sardinian
destinations are served.
ARST Bus Station (Stazione ARST) B-4, piazza
Matteotti 9, tel. (+39) 070 40 98 32/800 86 50 42, informazioni.ca@arst.sardegna.it,
http://arst.sardegna.
it. The bus station is very centrally located, no more than a
five-minute walk to piazza Yenne. Facilities include left luggage
(deposito bagagli), a fast food restaurant, an ATM and
a Hertz car rental kiosk. Q Ticket office open 05:00 - 21:15.
Arriving by ferry
Ferry terminals are just 100m west of the city centre,
a few meters from the main bus and train stations.
Tirrenia operates regular ferry services for passengers
and vehicles to and from Civitavecchia and Naples in the
mainland, Palermo and Trapani in Sicily.
Tirrenia A-4, Agenave, via Riva di Ponente, tel. (+39)
070 66 60 65, www.tirrenia.it. Q Ticket office open
08:30 - 12:20, 16:00 - 18:50, Sat 08:30 - 12:20, 16:00 -
18:00. Closed Sun.
Arriving by cruise ship
Cruise ships are currently docking at the Rinascita and
Sabaudo wharfs, conveniently located just a few minutes
walk from via Roma. Costa Crociere has chosen Cagliari as
one of its home ports.
Costa Crociere Tel. 848 50 50 50, www.costacrociere.it.
Pullmantur Tel. (+34) 915 56 32 13, www.pullmantur.
es.
Seabourn Cruise Line Tel. (+1) 0843 374 33 33,
www.seabourn.com.
Silversea Cruise Tel. (+39) 02 36 04 92 11, www.
silversea.com.
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & bAsics
Language
Useful phrases
How are you? Come stai?
Pleased to meet you. Piacere di conoscerti.
Do you speak English? Parli inglese?
Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, bar or
toilet? Dov’è il negozio, albergo, ristorante, bar o
gabinetto più vicino?
What’s your name? Come ti chiami?
My name is … Mi chiamo…
What time is it? Che ora è?
How much? Quanto costa?
Hello Ciao
Good morning Buon giorno
Good evening Buona sera
Goodnight Buona notte
Goodbye Arrivederci
Yes Sì
No No
Maybe Forse
Thank you Grazie
Days of the week
Monday Lunedì
Tuesday Martedì
Wednesday Mercoledì
Thursday Giovedì
Friday Venerdì
Saturday Sabato
Sunday Domenica
Numbers
1 uno 2 due
3 tre 4 quattro
5 cinque 6 sei
7 sette 8 otto
9 nove 10 dieci
11 undici 12 dodici
13 tredici 14 quattordici
15 quindici 16 sedici
17 diciassette 18 diciotto
19 diciannove 20 venti
21 ventuno 50 cinquanta
100 cento 200 duecento
500 cinquecento 1000 mille
Street smarts
Street, road Strada
Alley Vicolo
Boulevard Viale
Square Piazza
Market Mercato
Airport Aeroporto
Port Porto
Ferry Traghetto
Bus station Autostazione
Train station Stazione ferroviaria
Taxi Taxi
Arriving by sailing boat
Marina di Sant’Elmo G-3, calata dei Mercedari, tel.
(+39) 070 34 41 69/(+39) 328 978 13 91, marinasantelmo@yahoo.it,
www.marinasantelmo.it. Marina di
Sant’Elmo has 300 berths for boats up to 30 tons. It offers
a variety of services from general repairs and maintenance
to toilets, showers and launderette.
August - September 2012
9

10 Arriving & bAsics
Marina Piccola H-4, porticciolo Marina Piccola, tel.
(+39) 070 605 19 40, fax (+39) 070 37 14 85, motomarsarda@tiscali.it.
Marina Piccola is located just feet
away from Poetto beach and some 10-15 minutes’ walk
away from town bound buses (PF, PQ). The marina has a café
and a restaurant-pizzeria, as well as other venues that can
be found in the immediate surroundings. Call to check if they
have available berths.
Portus Karalis B/C-4, molo Dogana, tel. (+39) 070
65 35 35, fax (+39) 070 640 48 98, portuskaralis@
gmail.com, http://portuskaralis.blogspot.it. Located
in the section of the harbour facing via Roma, it’s a perfect
spot for both small and huge vessels, and especially if you
want to remain close to the city, its shops, restaurants and
bars being all in very short walking distance. QOpen 09:00
- 13:00, 15:00 - 18:30.
Arriving by car
Cagliari is linked to major ferry ports Porto Torres
(238km from Cagliari) and Olbia (274km) by dual carriageway
roads SS131 and SS131dcn. Be sure to
bring your driving licence, your car’s registration papers
and a valid insurance policy, such as the international
green card, a reflective vest and a warning triangle.
The speed limit on non-urban roads is 90 km/h, on
the Asse Mediano (Cagliari’s inner ring road) 70 km/h,
in urban areas 50 km/h, unless otherwise indicated by
road signs. It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat
belts. Headlights have to be always turned on when
driving on non-urban roads. Drinking and driving is
heavily fined. The legal limit is 0.5 g/l.
Approaching Cagliari, signposting is sometimes confusing,
so we recommend you glance at a map before arriving.
There are access restrictions for cars within
city centre. Castello is off-limits during the night
(00:00 - 09:00), while access to Marina, Stampace and
Villanova is also restricted during the day.
Electricity
Electricity in Italy is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
and take three round pins. If you are coming from the US,
Canada, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as
well as from many other countries.
Public Holidays
There are a number of public holidays in Italy. On these
days city councils, post offices and banks are closed.
Some shops, restaurants, museums and attractions
may also close or have abbreviated opening hours.
Jan 1 New Year’s Day
Jan 6 Epiphany
March 31 - April 1, 2013 Easter
Apr 25 Liberation Day
May 1 Labour Day
Jun 2 Republic Day
Aug 15 Assumption
Oct 30 City Patron St Saturnin’s day
Nov 1 All Souls’ Day
Dec 8 Immaculate Conception
Dec 25 Christmas
Dec 26 St Stephen’s Day
Emergency numbers
Carabinieri 112
Police 113
Fire Brigade 115
Emergency medical service hotline 118
Coast Guard 1530
Metropolitan Police (+39) 070 533 533
Health & Pharmacies
Cagliari has three public hospitals with emergency units.
Although there can be long queues for minor problems,
more serious cases are usually addressed professionally,
swiftly and free of charge.
Pharmacies (farmacia in Italian) are easily recognizable
from the luminous red or green cross on the outside.
Opening hours generally follow similar time patterns to
shops. A few pharmacies are open at night, on Sundays
and public holidays. These change on a weekly basis and
the list with addresses and phone numbers is always on
display on boards outside every single pharmacy in town
as well as at www.ordfarma.it.
Ospedale Brotzu F-1, piazzale Ricchi 1, tel. (+39) 070
53 95 94. Q Open 24/7.
Ospedale Civile San Giovanni di Dio B-3, via Ospedale
46, tel. (+39) 070 66 32 37. Q Open 24/7. J
Ospedale Marino H-2, lungomare Poetto, tel. (+39 070
609 43 05. Q Open 24/7.
Language
Every Sardinian speaks standard Italian. Sardinia has a
language of its own, Sardinian, which is categorised in many
different dialects and varieties. It is officially recognised as a
Neo-Latin language, just as Italian, French, Spanish or Catalan.
Nevertheless, in Cagliari speakers of the local version
of Sardinian, known as Casteddaiu, are growing thinner.
Younger generations normally understand it, but aren’t fluent
speakers, as opposed to their parents or grandparents.
Local time
From March 25th to October 28th, Italy is in the Central
European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. The rest of the
year the clock ticks according to the Central European
Time Zone, or GMT+1.
Mobile phones
You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an
international roaming agreement with one of Italian four
mobile phone networks. Normally, if you’re abroad, you
have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing
calls, text messages, MMS and internet.
Depending on your phone usage, it’s well worth considering
buying a local SIM card that you simply use in your
own phone. A prepaid account starts from around €10. To
purchase one you need to show your ID card or passport.
Money
A large part of the European Union has adopted the euro
(€) as its local currency and Italy is no exception. One
euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5,
10, 20, 50 euro cents and 1, 2 euros; banknotes: 5, 10,
20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. You can exchange and
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

withdraw money at most large banks, open Mon-Fri 08:30
- 13:15 and 14:30 - 16:00. Banks accept Visa and MasterCard
at their cash dispensers. Many restaurants, hotels
and shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but to avoid
disappointment, be sure to carry some cash with you.
Post
Post Office (Poste) B-3, piazza del Carmine 27, www.
poste.it. You can buy stamps at tobacconists and drop off
your postcards in the red boxes around town or go straight
to this centrally located post office. QOpen 08:25 - 19:10,
Sat 08:25 - 12:35. Closed Sun.
Religion
Latin Rite Catholicism is by far the largest religious group in
Italy. Cagliari is said to have been a diocese since as early as
70AD, although there are no written documents to prove it.
There are a small mosque and an Evangelical Baptist church
in the central Marina quarter. Other places of worship are
to be found in greater Cagliari (Muslim, Christian Orthodox,
Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-day Saints among others).
Safety
It is generally safe to walk around, both day and night,
especially in the city centre and surrounding neighbourhoods.
Even the dark and narrow streets of the historical
quarters don’t represent a serious threat. Although crime
does exist in town, it is not gang-related and does not
normally consist of mugging, assaults or random beatings.
Having said all this, it is also worth pointing out that some
precautions should be taken. It is common sense not to
venture out too far away from the centre at night, on foot
and in dodgy parts of town. If you see a group of people
you don’t like the look of, maybe it’s a good idea to just
cross the street. Cagliari is not the sort of place where you
can just jump on a passing-by taxi. If the situation gets
particularly edgy, call 112 (Carabinieri) or 113 (Police)
for help. If possible, find someone who speaks Italian to
help you make the call since there is no guarantee of finding
an English speaker on the other end.
Smoking & Alcohol
Smoking is not allowed in public places, such as bars,
pubs, clubs, restaurants, offices etc. There are however a
few venues which have designated areas where smoking
is permitted. Some hidden late-night pubs in the centre will
turn a blind eye and bring an ashtray to your table in the
early hours of the morning.
Sardinia in a nutshell
Area: 23,821km2
Population: 1.675million
Provinces (in order of population): Cagliari, Sassari,
Oristano, Nuoro, Olbia-Tempio, Carbonia-Iglesias, Medio
Campidano, Ogliastra
Capital city: Cagliari (pop. 156,000)
Other cities: Sassari (pop. 130,600), Quartu Sant’Elena
(71,900), Olbia (57,000), Alghero (41,000), Nuoro
(36,200), Oristano (31,900)
Highest point: Punta La Marmora, Gennargentu Massif
(1,834m)
Longest river: Tirso (150km)
Largest lake: Omodeo Reservoir (29km2)
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & bAsics
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre (Ufficio del Turismo)
B-3, largo Carlo Felice 2, c/o SEARCH (Sede
Espositiva Archivio Storico Comunale), tel. (+39)
070 677 71 87, infopoint.cagliari@gmail.com,
www.infopointcagliari.it. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 2,
9, 23 and 30 August 08:00 - 24:00.
Infopoint Molo Sanità B-4, molo Sanità. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00.
Infopoint Piazza Costituzione C-3, piazza Costituzione.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 2, 9, 23 and 30 August
08:00 - 24:00.
Infopoint Piazza Indipendenza B-2, piazza Indipendenza.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Weather
Month Temperature Rainfall,
min/max, °C mm
January 6/14 46
February 6/15 57
March 7/16 44
April 9/18 37
May 12/22 24
June 16/27 9
July 19/30 3
August 19/30 8
September 17/27 31
October 14/23 56
November 9/18 56
December 7/15 55
According to Italian law, alcohol cannot be legally sold to
people under 18. However, it is unlikely that a teenager
will not be served a drink at a bar or have his purchase
rejected in a supermarket.
Telephone numbers
All In Your Pocket guides in its European publishing empire
list country codes before all telephone numbers. The
Italian country code is (+39), but of course, you only have
to use this if you’re dialing from abroad. If you’re already in
Italy and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just
ignore the (+39) prefix and dial the number.
Tipping
Tipping is not usually expected, as most places include a
10, 15 or 20% service charge in the bill. However, tips are
always welcome and can be left on the table or counter, or
even handed over personally to the waiter/bartender.
Visas
Although Sardinia holds a special status, it is part of Italian
national territory and therefore Schengen Agreement rules
apply. However, Sardinia is an island and all EU nationals
need at least an ID card when boarding airplanes and
ferries, while non-EU nationals will require a passport for
a stay of up to three months. Depending on the country of
origin, some foreigners might need a visa. Please enquire
at Italian embassies or consulates for current bilateral
agreements with your country.
August - September 2012
11

12 history
Origins
The first traces of human activity in the area of Cagliari
date back to 6000-4000BC and further findings led
archaeologists to believe that the gulf of Cagliari has
been continuously inhabited ever since. However, there is
very little testimony of the Nuragic culture which started
around 2000BC and this is probably due to the many
different phases of urbanisation. The first inhabitants and
therefore founders of Cagliari (or Karel/Karalis as it was
then called) which left visible traces were the Phoenicians,
around 7th century BC. Initially just a commercial outpost,
gathered around the Santa Gilla marshes, the town
gradually grew towards the area of the present-day train
station. The most important testimonies of Phoenician
culture are the two necropoleis, visible both east and west
of the city centre, on the hills of Tuvixeddu and Bonaria.
Roman period
Cagliari fell to the Romans in 238BC. Thanks to its ideal
strategic position, it soon became an important naval
hub for fleets engaged in wars in Northern Africa. Cagliari
was important for commerce, thanks to the Roman road
system which connected the city’s harbour with other
towns, as well as for salt, which was harvested from the
large evaporation ponds, still visible and partially active,
between Cagliari and Quartu Sant’Elena. Although
Cagliari was never formally a colony, its inhabitants were
eventually granted Roman citizenship and the city flourished
as one of the most important Roman cities in the
Mediterranean. The large amphitheatre, which could seat
up to 10,000 spectators, various cisterns to gather and
distribute water, villas, statues and other finds, are testimonies
of the the city’s role during Roman domination.
Middle Ages
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Cagliari was dominated
by the Vandals and then by the Byzantine Empire. The
growing political and military difficulties of the latter,
gradually led Sardinia to be divided in four autonomous
administrations, called giudicati, Cagliari being the
main one. However, due to the lack of a centralised
power, weakness and exposure to constant raids by
Moorish pirates, Cagliari was practically abandoned and
its inhabitants preferred to found another town, Santa
Igia, along the more protected shores of the Santa Gilla
lagoon, presumably close to present-day Sant’Avendrace.
From 10th century onwards, the Genoese and especially
Pisan maritime republics became stronger along the
Sardinian coast, establishing their military presence and
their commercial activities. Pisan merchants gradually
established their presence in the gulf of Cagliari and what
started as a commercial outpost, became a military and
political domination. The Pisans defeated the Cagliari
giudicato, destroyed Santa Igia and occupied the hill of
present-day Castello, founding Castel di Castro. They
erected the first ring of fortified walls which also included
the area of Marina, facing the harbour.
Spanish domination
The Aragonese domination in Cagliari commenced
symbolically in 1324, when the Pisan army was badly
defeated in a battle which took place presumably in the
area of what is now the airport, between Cagliari and
Elmas. While initially allowing the Pisans to live in the
city, after few years the Aragonese quelled a rebellion
and then defeated a fleet made up of Pisan and Genoese
vessels. Pisan inhabitants were expelled from Cagliari
and their houses, all administration and commerce was
handed over to Aragonese colonisers. As a result, the
city’s population dwindled from 18,000 to 3,000 inhab-
itants. Sardinia itself became a kingdom and its capital
changed names into Càller. The island was governed
by a viceroy, who used to be appointed directly by the
Spanish sovereigns. In the quest to gain access to administrative,
political or military roles, local gentry and
Spanish aristocracy grew ever more intertwined. Although
the economic conditions of the local population did not
improve significantly, throughout the centuries Spanish
influence on society in Sardinia, and therefore Cagliari,
became apparent, especially in regards to customs,
religion, language and architecture.
The Savoy family
Victor Amadeus II, duke of Savoy, was granted the title
of King of Sardinia in 1720, following the 1718 Treaty
of London, with which the geopolitical setting of Europe
was rearranged. According to the agreement, the House
of Savoy were not allowed to make significant changes
to Sardinian institutions and it therefore inherited a state
whose political system was accustomed to subjugation, a
backward and failing economy, as well as a weak defence
system, still based on passive resistance, represented by
the decaying chain of coastal towers, a number of which
are still clearly visible along the gulf of Cagliari.
The Savoy treated Sardinia, and its capital Cagliari, much
like the far-away colony it actually was. Although heavy
taxation hampered its development, Cagliari regained its
role in European power games. The port and its position
along the main Mediterranean commercial routes helped
restore the city’s political and strategic importance.
When the new rulers were put in power, from the outside
Cagliari appeared to be a mighty fortress, surrounded by
potent walls and towers. However, its defence system was
in fact outdated, it lacked artillery and regular troops.
The Piedmontese viceroys and military engineers called
for a radical makeover of the city’s fortifications. These
were tested for the first time during the winter of 1793,
when the French fleet laid siege to Cagliari, shelling the
city and unsuccessfully attempting to land east of Poetto
beach. A decade later, during the Napoleonic Wars and
the occupation of Piedmont, the Savoy family, who had
been ousted from their court in Turin, resided in the Royal
Palace in Cagliari.
Contemporary Cagliari
During the peaceful years of the 19th century, Cagliari
gradually opened up to industrial and commercial investments,
its old defence walls got pulled down, its urban
landscape began to be modernised with new architectural
styles (Neo-Classical, Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau) and
places such as via Roma, Saint Remy Rampart and the
annexed Indoor Promenade.
In the 20th century the municipality of Cagliari grew
bigger and included many other towns, which are now
formally independent, but remain part of the city’s metropolitan
area, such as Monserrato, Selargius and Elmas.
Cagliari suffered intensive bombing during WWII, in the
course of which most of its population fled to neighbouring
towns and villages. The city centre was severely damaged.
After WWII, Cagliari’s territory stretched out both inland
and towards the sea, becoming what is now an urban
continuum which includes Elmas, Assemini, Monserrato,
Selargius, Quartucciu and Quartu Sant’Elena, with a total
population of around 370,000.
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Jazz in the Park
The 8th European Jazz Expo festival is on from 7 to 9
September in the Monte Claro Park against the atmospheric
backdrop of the newly restored Villa Clara. The
first evening, Michael Radford’s Michel Petrucciani will
be followed by a tribute concert performed by Rita Marcotulli.
In the next two days over 50 concerts alternate
between the eight stages in the park with names like
Billy Cobham, Enrico Rava, Anthony Joseph & The Spasm
Band, Stanley Jordan and Dado Moroni. Grab traditional
Sardinian food and drink between shows at the Villaggio
del Gusto. For more info, click www.jazzinsardegna.it.
Tickets (€15, 3-day pass €35) can be booked via www.
mailticket.it.
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
© Marco Mattana
Venues
Teatro Civico di Castello B-3, via De Candia, tel. (+39)
070 677 76 60, teatrocastello@gmail.com. The Teatro
Civico is ideally located at the bottom end of Castello and
only a few minutes walk up the hill from the shopping street
via Manno. It’s in itself a living monument, since the structure
was originally built in 1836 following architect Gaetano Cima’s
project, on the grounds were an even older theatre existed.
At a public institution, it lived through many ups and downs,
before being almost completely bombed out during the 1943
bombings, which only left the lobby and the perimetre walls
standing. It was brought back to its original splendour in
2006 and has since become a point of reference for drama
and comedy lovers in town. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon.
Teatro Lirico di Cagliari B-1, via Sant'Alenixedda, tel.
(+39) 070 408 22 30, biglietteria@teatroliricodicagliari.
it, www.teatroliricodicagliari.it. After the destruction of
Teatro Civico di Castello during the second world war a new
project for a new Opera House was brought to light in 1964.
A project that over the years transformed into what we call
today Teatro Lirico di Cagliari. A beautifully designed and prestigious
Opera House that can host up to 1,650 spectators.
The stage and the orchestra pit were built first, the rehearsal
rooms, workrooms, store rooms and office premises were
built over the years while the foyer, a new bookshop, the
Culture & events
bar and an elegant restaurant were the latest addition and
renovation project to be completed. Teatro Lirico was finally
inaugurated in 1993. With its own orchestra and chorus
which play a leading role in many prestigious productions,
Teatro Lirico keeps its doors open all year long with concert,
opera and ballet seasons. Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00 and one hour before show
time. Closed Sun.
Calendar of events
Classical & Opera
August
Date Time Event Venue
4 21:00 Excerpts of Don Giovanni by
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart,
libretto by Lorenzo Da Ponte
Performed by Riccardo Spina,
Francesco Leone, Martina and
Anna Serra, Enrico Correggia,
Marco Schirru
LZ
September
28 20:30 Nabucco by Giuseppe Verdi,
libretto by Temistocle Solera
Conductor Donato Renzetti
TL
29 19:00 Nabucco by Giuseppe Verdi,
libretto by Temistocle Solera
Conductor Donato Renzetti
TL
Rock, folk, jazz & more
August
2 20:30 Tre Quarti do Samba: samba CG
7 21:30 Alborosie + Boom Boom
Vibration: reggae
SA
8 21:00 Vinicio Capossela: folk rock SA
31 21:00 J-Ax: pop rap SA
September
2 21:30 Elio e le Storie Tese: comedy
rock
SA
7 21:00 European Jazz Expo 2012 MC
8-9 12:00 European Jazz Expo 2012 MC
Venues
CG - City Gallery of Modern Art
LZ - Lazaret
MC - Monte Claro Park (Parco di Monte Claro), via
Liguria (A/B-1)
SA - Sant’Elia Arena (Arena Sant’Elia), via Vespucci (G-3)
TL - Teatro Lirico
Teatro Lirico © Priamo Tolu
August - September 2012
13

14 Where to stay
Cream of the crop
T Hotel G-1, via dei Giudicati 66, tel. (+39) 070 47 400,
fax (+39) 070 47 40 16, reservation@thotel.it, www.
thotel.com. This sleek hotel has been the host to politicians,
famous footballers and stars. A superb spa centre will take
you on a regenerating journey of wellness and fitness, welcoming
you to the vast hydrotherapy pool, Turkish bath and
emotional showers. The exclusive treatments
are a must and the fully trained staff will welcome you in
a discreet, professional setting. The superb and stylish open
space entrance that overlooks the bistro bar and restaurant
constantly exibists works by local and international artists.
Orange, red, green and purple are geared to enhance vitality,
energy, tranquillity and relaxation and are the glowing theme
colours that dominate each room. From family rooms ready
to cater every family’s need to the hi-tech suite to fullfill every
business traveller’s dream; from panoramic suites, delux or
classic rooms, this hotel has it all. Menus conceived by chef
of T Restaurant are based on seasonal produce, representing
traditional Sardinian dishes and the modern Mediterranean
cuisine. American breakfast buffet, freshly baked bread and
croissants await you in the morning, while T Bistro provides
a high quality appetising lunch and to finish off T Bar will
welcome you for an aperitif or an after-dinner drink. The hotel
has seven conference rooms, that can hold up to 800 guests.
Q207 rooms (singles €109 - 219, doubles €129 - 279, suites
€199 - 409, executive suite €300 - 459). Breakfast included.
PHAUFLKW hhhh
Upmarket
Caesar’s G-3, via Darwin 2-4, tel. (+39) 070 34 07 50,
fax (+39) 070 34 07 55, info@caesarshotel.it, www.
caesarshotel.it. This hotel invites you in this open air
grand foyer with a beautiful skylight. The rooms offer every
comfort a traveller needs. Even though located in a modern
residential neighbourhood, each room has satellite TV and is
soundproofed. The restaurant feels warm and welcoming and
the dishes are simple and traditional, though prepared and
served with great care, it can also cater privately for groups.
With 10 conference rooms that can hold up to 300 people,
this hotel may be the answer to your business needs. Q48
rooms (singles €79 - 109, doubles €119 - 149, suites €260).
Breakfast included. PHAULKW hhhh
Holiday Inn Cagliari F-1, viale Ticca 23, tel. (+39) 070
53 79, fax (+39) 070 211 04 01, info@hicagliari.com,
www.holidayinn.com/cagliari. The moment you walk into
this stylish hotel lobby you are welcomed by vibrant contemporary
paintings that brighten the entrance and instantly
make you feel at home. Conveniently located between the
city centre and the airport, the Holiday Inn is perfect for leisure
breaks, meetings or business stays. It offers a wide range of
top class amenities and each room is elegantly furnished with
attention to detail and all the comforts of a four-star hotel to
guarantee a great night’s sleep. Guests are better off having
a car to move around, since the bus service isn’t the most
frequent. Q92 rooms (singles €50 - 180, doubles €70 - 200).
Breakfast included. PHALKDCW hhhh
Mediterraneo D-4, lungomare Cristoforo Colombo 46,
tel. (+39) 070 34 23 61, fax (+39) 070 30 12 74, info@
hotelmediterraneo.net, www.hotelmediterraneo.net.
Situated right by the harbour, this hotel offers panoramic
views of the sea. The decor and style are a reminiscence of
the 1970s. Restaurant services are not available but there
is a self-service bar on site. It also offers a total of 700m2
conference room which can easily be divided into smaller
units, hosting up to 800 people for your conference needs.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning W Wi-Fi connection
6 Animal friendly T Child friendly
A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking R Internet
M Nearest metro station G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant D Sauna
C Swimming pool
One of the conference rooms is directly connected to an
outside garden where business lunches can be prepared
and catered for. Q137 rooms (singles €129, doubles €165).
Breakfast included. PHALW hhhh
Miramare B-3/4, via Roma 59, tel./fax (+39) 070 66
40 21, info@hotelmiramarecagliari.it, www.hotelmiramarecagliari.it.
With a spectacular view over the harbour,
this enchanting boutique hotel will simply take your breath
away. Each room tastefully and individually decorated by
Sardinian artists, attention to the smallest detail, passion
and impeccable customer service will make your stay at this
hotel a lavish and surprisingly pleasant one. Miramare takes a
charming listed building from the late 1800s and brings it into
the 21st century. The inviting and warm living room will most
definitely make you feel at home. Intertwining old and modern,
culture and art, each room has been carefully thought
throughout with the client in mind. Those who cherish their
thirst for luxury will be delighted to find tastefully decorated
rooms and bathrooms. Breakfast to die for complete with
freshly-baked goodies, fruit and coffee. It also features a small
internal garden and one particular suite has it all for itself.
You can also experience the modern comfort of a massage
room and Ayurveda treatments. It’s one of the few places
in Cagliari that welcomes dogs and cats of all sizes. Q18
rooms (singles €139 - 319, doubles €169 - 319). Breakfast
included. PJA6IW hhhh
Panorama G-3, viale Diaz 231, tel. (+39) 070 30 76
91, fax (+39) 070 30 54 13, info@hotelpanorama.it,
www.hotelpanorama.it. Offering spectacular views of the
gulf of Cagliari, ideally located in a smart residential area
of town, it’s within walking distance from the city centre
(approximately 30 minutes) and a ten-minute bus ride from
Poetto beach. This eight-story structure hotel is elegant
and welcoming. Belvedere restaurant offers its guests a
fantastic panoramic view of the city while enjoying a candle
lit dinner service. It also boasts the elegant Panorama cafe,
an outdoor swimming pool, conference and meeting rooms.
Each of the five conference rooms is sound proof and can
hold up to 150 guests. Q100 rooms (30 singles €70 - 110,
50 doubles €90 - 190, 20 suites €124 - 235). Breakfast
included. PHAUFLKCW hhhh
Regina Margherita C-3, viale Regina Margherita
44, tel. (+39) 070 67 03 42, fax (+39) 070 66 83 25,
booking@hotelreginamargherita.com, www.hotelreginamargherita.com.
Located in the heart of the city, just steps
away from Saint Remy Rampart, this stylish hotel has been
beautifully and elegantly decorated with a modern touch
while maintaining and intertwining design with the tradition
of hospitality. The rooms have been elegantly decorated yet
warm and welcoming. If you are looking for space, luxury and
just peace of mind as well as top notch customer service you
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

will most definitely find it here. Every single detail has been
thought of throughout the entire hotel. The bathrooms are
completely new and modern, designed to relax after a hard
day at work or a busy day sightseeing. Exquisite staff is ready
to cater for all your needs. Q100 rooms (singles €95 - 148,
doubles €120 - 195, suites €320). Breakfast included.
PTJHALGW hhhh
Sardegna E-1, via Lunigiana 50, tel. (+39) 070 28 62
45, fax (+39) 070 29 04 69, info@sardegnahotelcagliari.
it, www.sardegnahotelcagliari.it. Through antiques and
retro furniture this luxurious hotel blends old and modern
design in a simple and elegant way. The relaxing ambient,
timeless taste, tradition and sleek design set for a great start
on your way to discover Cagliari. Recently and entirely renovated,
this hotel offers all the comforts a four star hotel can
offer. Clean, spacious rooms and bathrooms offer luxurious
comfort. The american bar is great for socializing and relaxation
while the spacious lounge equipped with large plasma
screen TVs give you that homely feeling. Baby-sitting is available
for those who would love to enjoy a relaxing dinner at La
Scala restaurant or to simply take a moment for themselves.
Q84 rooms (singles €91 - 103, doubles €120 - 137, 6 suites
€202). Breakfast included. PTA6LKW hhhh
Mid-range
4 Mori B-3, via Angioy 27, tel. (+39) 070 66 85 35,
fax (+39) 070 66 60 87, info@hotel4mori.it, www.
hotel4mori.it. Just a few steps away from the city centre,
shops, bars and restaurants, this hotel is located in the lower
part of the Stampace quarter, right behind the Town Hall and
the train station. It features a spacious entrance which is a
reminder of what lux and elegance used to be. The rooms are
spacious, clean and also equipped with a mini bar. Restaurant
services are not available but there is a bar that can cater
to your thirsty needs. The staff is friendly, welcoming and will
be happy to give you directions and tips when planning your
days in or out of town. Q42 rooms (singles €70, doubles
€100, suites €125). Breakfast included. PJAU hhh
Calamosca H-4, viale Calamosca 50, tel. (+39) 070 37
16 28, fax (+39) 070 383 78 09, info@hotelcalamosca.
eu, www.hotelcalamosca.eu. The location of this hotel
is splendid for those who want to wake up to breathtaking
views of the gulf of Cagliari and spend their day lazying on
the beach. The hotel itself isn’t in the greatest shape but the
ground floor has been completely refurbished. The rooms on
the ground floor are simple, nice and clean with fully renovated
bathrooms while the first and second floor rooms are
patiently awaiting their makeover. The views from the upper
floors are spectacular and most feature a small balcony
as well. Next to the hotel, there is a restaurant perfect for
outdoor dining during the hot summer nights. Q46 rooms
(singles €50 - 120, doubles €80 - 160). Breakfast included.
PALKW hhh
Due Colonne B-3, via Sardegna 4, tel. (+39) 070 65
87 10, fax (+39) 070 65 47 83, hotelduecolonne@
libero.it, www.hotel2colonne.it. Literally feet away from
the main shopping streets, bars and restaurants this hotel
is located in the heart of Cagliari’s historical city centre. Cosy
and relaxing atmosphere, beautifully refurbished and refined
rooms. The staff is very friendly and helpful. Though there isn’t
a restaurant on the premises, the hotel offers a family style
breakfast room, where you can enjoy your afternoon tea after
a long day of sightseeing and shopping. Wi-Fi is available only
on the first floor and not in the rooms. Q23 rooms (singles
€68, doubles €110 - 130, suites €140). Breakfast included.
PTJAUW hhh
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay
Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa Maria F-1, circonvallazione
di Pirri, angolo via Santa Maria Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 451
93 00, fax (+39) 070 451 93 01, reservation.cagliari@
ideahotel.it, www.ideahotel.it. Situated on one of the main
routes into Cagliari and not far by car from the city centre and
Poetto beach. The rooms are fairly spacious and comfortable.
Communal areas are nicely funished and include a restaurant,
breakfast bar and conference rooms to accomodate your business
meetings. It’s being located at an important cross roads,
makes it an ideal place if your plan is to visit places out of town,
or if you want a parking-stress-free break, since the hotel has
its own parking spaces. Q129 rooms (singles €140, doubles
€170). Breakfast included. PHALGKW hhh
Italia B-3, via Sardegna 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 04 10,
fax (+39) 070 65 02 40, hotelitalia@tiscali.it, www.
hotelitaliacagliari.com. Looking like a film set from the early
1970s, Hotel Italia is finally undergoing renovation. Because
of its grand size, the hotel doors will remain open for business
throughout the renovation process, as it will be done in sections.
Located in the historical quarter of Marina, the hotel
first opened its doors in 1928. The rooms are spacious and
clean and the staff is very friendly and welcoming. The bar
is open from 16:00 to 24:00. Since the hotel is surrounded
by tons of restaurants it does not feature one. Q107 rooms
(singles €58 - 72, doubles €72 - 100). Breakfast included.
Parking is available through the hotel’s front desk at a near
location for €3 per day. PJAXW hhh
Budget
A&R Bundes Jack B-3/4, via Roma 75, tel./fax (+39)
070 66 79 70, hotel.aerbundesjack@libero.it. A small
family business hotel above the arcades of via Roma, it offers
front row views of Cagliari’s port from the moment you walk
in. First opened in 1938, this hotel was part of the elite and
crème de la crème of Cagliari’s hotels. Famous ballerinas
and high society people have stepped their foot and slept in
this hotel’s domains. Each room is decorated with impeccably
maintained antique furniture. The rooms are spacious and airy.
There is also a common space with a small antique bar tucked
in a corner from where Mr Palmas will entertain and delight his
guests with a glass of vernaccia of his own production. Q28
rooms (singles €52 - 72, doubles €82 - 102). PJNW hh
Chentu Lunas H-3, piazza Archipelaghi 1, tel. (+39)
070 38 95 39/(+39) 328 762 20 69, fax (+39) 070 383
79 87, info@chentulunas.it, www.chentulunas.it. This
hotel is situated at the beginning of the Poetto beach, and
therefore all you need to do before you dip into the water is
to cross the street, bring your bathing costume and flip-flops,
and sun cream of course! The rooms have satellite TV, a minibar
and a safe. On the ground floor you will find the Jacaranda
restaurant, serving typical modern Sardinian cuisine. In the
vicinity there are a handful of restaurants and bars in addition
to windsurfing, kayaking and sailing facilities. Through the
hotel it is also possible to organize diving, horse riding and
quad-biking trips. Q Open March - October.7 rooms (singles
€85, doubles €95). Breakfast included. PAKW h
La Terrazza B-3, via Santa Margherita 21, tel. (+39) 070
66 86 52, fax (+39) 070 66 08 63, info@laterrazzahotel.
com, www.laterrazzahotel.com. This family owned hotel is a
hidden gem in the old town. The rooms are neat and clean offering
views of Castello, the city and harbour of Cagliari. Cosy living room
and friendly service it’s the perfect place to came back ‘home’
to after a long day of sighseeing and shopping. Just around the
corner from all shops, amenities, archelogical and historical sites
the city has to offer. Q14 rooms (singles €50 - 60, doubles €65 -
75, triples €90 - 100). Breakfast included. PJA6W hh
August - September 2012
15

16 Where to stay
B&Bs
Almea G-3, via Rockefeller 27, tel. (+39) 328 009 51
51, a.curin@tiscali.it. This B&B is conveniently located
in a smart, residential part of town, close to main roads,
public transport, the Sant’Elia Stadium and the basketball/
volleyball arena. The rooms are spacious and clean and
there is a comfy communal living room. All the rooms have a
lovely view of the gulf of Cagliari, looking either east or west.
The homemade breakfast is served by the very hospitable
host. Overall, the feeling of the place is friendly and definitely
homely. Q 3 rooms (singles €35 - €40, doubles €70 - €75).
PLGXW
Antica Residenza Marina di Castello B-3/4, via
Roma 75, tel. (+39) 335 812 58 81/(+39) 070 289
04 77, locationcity@gmail.com, www.bedandbreakfastcagliaricity.it.
On the top floor of a fine building facing
the port and the sunshine, this elegant though cosy flat
guarantees some of the best rooms in town. They’re spacious,
newly done, clean and all have cutting edge en-suite
bathrooms. The common area, where guests can make their
own coffees and teas, looks up towards the Elephant Tower
and the southern bastions of Castello. Available for guests
to use is the large terrace, which looks onto the harbour
and the gulf of Angels, for your romantic aperitifs al fresco.
Restaurants, cafés and bars literally just yards away, same
as bus stops to Poetto beach and other locations. Exquisite!
Q 3 rooms (singles €60 - €90, doubles €70 - €120).
PJNGBXW
At Fourth H-3, via Isola Stromboli 3, tel. (+39) 388
320 93 94, info@atfourthbb.com, www.atfourthbb.com.
The name @4th is due to the way the locals arrange how
to meet at Poetto, based on the bus stop along the beach.
The establishment is in a luxurious villa, located literally just
yards from Poetto beach, making it the perfect place for a
holiday by the sea. It was entirely refurbished in 2011. In the
warmer months, a lovely homemade breakfast is served in a
garden with plants providing shade. The rooms are large, full
of light and all have clean, modern, en-suite bathrooms. Early
birds and night owls can be sure that Poetto in the summer
caters for all needs. However, if you want to go into town,
public transport is conveniently close to At Fourth, but bear
in mind Cagliari does not run night-buses, so be prepared to
take a taxi or a very long walk back to the B&B. Q 3 rooms
(singles €40 - €60, doubles €70 - €90). PGXW
Il Cagliarese C-3, via Porcile 19, tel. (+39) 339 654
40 83, info@ilcagliarese.it, www.ilcagliarese.it. This
bed & breakfast is just a few metres off via Roma and is
right in ‘restaurant world’. It gives a very cosy feeling right
from the start, with its soft lights and its quiet environment.
Its rooms and bathrooms are spotless and fully equipped
and get cleaned every day. It’s also very near buses to and
from Poetto beach, as well as the station and the shopping
streets. In the surrounding areas there are also many free
parking places, if you’re travelling by car. Breakfast is served
by the owner and is made special by homemade jams and
cakes. Also a wide selection of complimentary teas and
coffees is available for guests. Q 3 rooms (doubles €60 -
€70). PJGW
Il Perugino F-1, via Il Perugino 2, tel. (+39) 349 393
16 34, book@bbilperugino.com, www.bbilperugino.
com. This bed and breakfast offers the ultimate domestic
feeling! The flat is on a first floor and is entirely renovated,
the bedrooms are fair size, while the all en-suite bathrooms
are pristine. Hanging out in the common area is just like
staying at a friend’s place: make yourself comfortable and
have a cup of coffee! Located in a very quiet area of town,
it’s perfect if you have a car, though conveniently close to
a stop on bus route 1, which takes you directly to the very
centre of town in little time. Q 3 rooms (singles €30 - €45,
doubles €50 - €65). PGW
Il Profumo del Mare H-3, viale Poetto 196, tel. (+39)
338 144 82 75, admin@profumodelmare.it, http://
profumodelmare.weebly.com. You literally cross the road
and you’re on the beach! This B&B has two double rooms and
a neat and clean area for breakfast. The rooms are spacious,
elegant, carefully furnished and have balconies looking onto the
sea. The main communal area is the large terrace, equipped
with deck chairs, sun beds and a gazebo to give shade during
the hot summer days. The top perk of the place, apart from
its position, is the simply stunning view of the beach and the
eastern part of the gulf of Cagliari. The owner will provide you
with free bicycles and arrange sailing trips or surfing lessons for
you. He will also give a free bottle of Sardinian wine for guests
who give one of their books in exchange, which means there’s
plenty to keep you busy with. And don’t forget sun cream!
Q 2 rooms (doubles €54 - €80). PGXW
La Ghirlanda B-3, via Baylle 7, tel. (+39) 070 204 06
10/(+39) 339 889 26 48, laghirlanda@tiscali.it, www.
laghirlandacagliari.it. In the heart of the Marina quarter,
this B&B has the feeling of a small and smart hotel. This was
once an exclusive flat on a late 19th century building. Traces
of its past are to be found in some of the decors and the spacious
rooms. Choose the one which suits you best: one with
a balcony looking onto the harbour and the hustle and bustle
of the street below or a quieter and more intimate large-size
bedroom at the back? All the rooms are different from one
another, but have in common elegance and outstanding attention
to details. Q 5 rooms (singles €60 - €70, doubles
€75 - €95, triple €100 - €120). PJGW
La Peonia G-1, via Riva Villasanta 77, tel. (+39) 070
51 31 64/(+39) 338 724 14 83, fax (+39) 070 796
20 32, info@lapeonia.com, www.lapeonia.com. This
family-run business is at the ground floor of a recently renovated
early 20th century villa. Guests are plunged in history
in the large sitting room, surrounded by pristine antiques,
prints and art nouveau floor tiles. The bedrooms are the
perfect balance of modernity and elegant past. All en-suite
bathrooms are new and immaculate. In the warmer months,
guests can make the most of a large garden, with deckchairs
and sun umbrellas. The charming and well-travelled owner,
who speaks fluent English and French, can arrange a pick-up
service at the airport and a complimentary one-hour-long
tour of the city. He will also provide stacks of information for
your day trips in and around Cagliari. Take the bus M to get
to the city centre. Q 3 rooms (singles €50 - €65, doubles
€70 - €90). PAIGBW
La Terrazza Nelissen F-1, viale Sant’Avendrace 112,
tel. (+39) 349 825 45 55, bb.laterrazza@tiscali.it. Be
ready for blinding sunshine at this top floor apartment turned
B&B. A large terrace with fine garden furniture is available
for guests and really is the best part of the place. The rest
of the flat has an elegant ambience, parquet floors, large
and bright bedroom and a quality bathroom! The manager
is friendly and speaks fluent English and Dutch and can
certainly feed you with the necessary tips to make the most
of your stay in Cagliari. Q 1 room (single €30 - €35, double
€55 - €65). PGXW
Livingstone A-3, via XXIX Novembre 6, tel. (+39) 347
433 23 83, bblivingstone@virgilio.it. Situated in a handy
position for those using public transport, just five minutes’
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

walk from the train and bus stations, this bed & breakfast
welcomes its guest with a large common area. All rooms are
fully equipped, modern, more than clean and have an exotic
touch. Bathrooms all have spacious showers and towels are
changed every two nights. The owner is well travelled and
his experience in tourism shows when it comes to meeting
high standards and speaking English, French, German or
Spanish. There’s even a large terraced garden, with a gazebo,
where guests can also enjoy fresh fruit and bread for their
continental breakfast, and where smokers can have their
nicotine fix, in an otherwise completely smoke-free environment.
The owner can also arrange pick-up service to and
from the airport. Q 3 rooms (singles €35 - €45, doubles
€55 - €70). PGXW
MariaChiara F-1, via Santa Maria Chiara 103, tel.
(+39) 070 451 16 42/(+39) 392 234 54 90, info@
bebmariachiara.it, www.bebmariachiara.it. A friendly
and informal house. Two rooms have clean and fully-equipped
en-suite bathrooms. The other room has its own bathroom
on the other side of the corridor and a large balcony, where
guests can sit and choose relax in the shade or in the sun.
There’s a fairly small but cosy back-garden, with a gazebo
and tables, perfect for having your breakfast, which is selfcatering.
Although you might be better off with a car, bus QS
takes you directly to Poetto beach, while bus M goes straight
to the city centre, running every 5-10 minutes. Q 3 rooms
(singles €30 - €40, doubles €50 - €70, triples €70 - €90).
PAGBW
Rosso e Nero B-3, via Savoia 6, tel. (+39) 349 746 34
73, rossoenerobeb@gmail.com, www.rossoenerobeb.
it. This establishment only has one room but it’s large and
finely furnished. The bedroom has its own private living
room, which effectively makes it a suite. The bedroom can
be closed with venetian blinds within the room itself, giving
the whole picture a rather colonial twist. It looks onto piazza
Savoia, which is one the most fashionable, central and
characteristic places to be in town, both day or night, winter
or summer. The owner will provide fresh pastries from the
bakery every morning, as well as fresh fruit. He will also help
his guests planning and organising their stay and activities.
Also available are complimentary toiletries and slippers, as
well as free bicycles. Q 1 room (single €41, double €55 -
€70). PJGXW
Villa Vaghi G-3, viale Poetto 4, tel. (+39) 340 517 44
93/(+39) 335 173 53 89, villavaghibeb@gmail.com,
www.bbvillavaghi.it. Situated half way between Poetto
beach and the city centre, both easily reachable via bus,
it’s on the ground floor of a modern building, surrounded by
a pleasant garden with lawns and palm trees. Furniture is
new and modern, with a large common living area, which is
both elegant and cosy. Breakfast during the warmer months
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay
is served in the balcony and is made more interesting
thanks to homemade pastries and jams. Although not all
the bathrooms are en-suite, they are all large, modern and
impeccably clean. The owner can also organise windsurf,
kayak or sailing lessons, as well as massages and other
beauty treatments. Bicycles can be rented adding a small
extra. Q 3 rooms (singles €40 - €50, doubles €60 - €80).
PGXW
Hostels
Marina Cagliari B-3, scalette San Sepolcro, tel.
(+39) 070 67 08 18, fax (+39) 070 68 24 21, cagliari@aighostels.com,
www.hostelmarinacagliari.
com. In what used to be a school in the heart of the city,
you’ll find the hostel, that was inaugurated in 2009. It’s
only minutes away from basically everything there is to see
in Cagliari’s old town. It has a large inner-courtyard and a
spacious common room, which is also the area dedicated
to the well stocked hostel bar. The bar is lively, popular
and it organises plenty of weekend events, live music,
dj sets, thus entertaining international backpackers and
locals alike. The rooms and the dorms all have en-suite
bathrooms and many of them have mezzanine floors and
lovely wooden ceilings, as well as fridges and TVs. Q 35
rooms. Rates per person: single room €40, double room
€30, triple/quad room €25, dormitory €22. Extra charge
for Hostelling International membership €3 per night.
Breakfast included. PJHAEGXW
Short term rental
Residence Ulivi e Palme G-1, via Bembo 25, tel. (+39)
070 48 58 61, fax (+39) 070 48 69 70, hotelresidence@
uliviepalme.it, www.uliviepalme.it. Residence Ulivi e Palme
does not just appeal to your short term traveller but also to
those who wish to stay for longer. The mini-studios are confortable
and spacious rooms, all en-suite with TV, hairdryer,
telephone, central heating and self-contained kitchens. It also
provides two meeting rooms that can hold up to 150 guests.
There are no lack of sports facilities, an indoor swimming pool
and a gym both run by a sports club offer special rates for
the guests, while the two tennis courts on the premises are
free of charge. Situated on the fourth floor with a panoramic
view of the lagoon of Molentargius, the restaurant offers
traditional cuisine in a friendly and warm environment. Q 23
rooms (singles €68, doubles €102), 104 mini-apartments
(single studio flat €357 per week, double occupancy studio
€525 per week). PTHAFLKW
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2012
17

18
Where to stay
Agriturismo
Agriturismo, a combination of the words for ‘‘agriculture’’
and ‘‘tourism’’ in Italian, is a style of vacationing in farm
house resorts. An agriturismo holiday is suitable for the
whole family and some places even be very romantic
or luxurious. An agriturismo will usually serve foods to
guests prepared from raw materials produced on the farm
or at least locally. Some will allow the guest to actually
participate in the activities surrounding the farm. Despite
the rural nature of the lodging, one might expect a rustic
experience; yet many agriturismi (the plural form of
agriturismo) feature rather luxurious accommodation as
well as swimming pools.
To find out more, visit www.sardegna.campagnamica.it.
Agricantus 2000 Is Piscinas, Capoterra, tel. (+39)
338 471 93 86, agricantus2000@hotmail.it. Q 6 rooms
(doubles €50 - €60). Book in advance. PAUKW
Baccu Cardu Baccu Cardu, Serdiana, tel. (+39) 338
633 61 16/(+39) 320 075 52 71, www.agriturismobaccucardu.it.
Q 5 bungalows (singles €30, doubles €50). Book
in advance. 6UNKW
Bau Arena Bau Arena, Pula, tel. (+39) 348 793 80
66, agriturismobauarena@msn.com. Q 4 rooms (singles
€30 - €40, doubles €60 - €80, quads upon request). Book in
advance. PNKW
Camboni L’Annunziata, Castiadas, tel./fax (+39) 070
994 91 52, tel. (+39) 349 323 73 58, info@agriturismocamboni.it,
www.agriturismocamboni.it. Q 6 rooms
(singles €35 - €40, doubles €70 - €80), 4 self-catering apartments
(€300 - €700 per week). Book in advance. PNK
Cesarò Sabadi, Castiadas, tel. (+39) 070 994 70 50.
Q 1 self-catering apartment (€35 - €40 per person). Book
in advance. UNK
Costa del Sud Sa Tuerra, Teulada, tel. (+39) 349 360
21 81, agricostadelsud@libero.it. Q 6 rooms (doubles
€44 - €90), 8 bungalows (doubles €35 - €50). Book in advance.
P6UNC
Gragonti Gragonti, Arbus, tel. (+39) 349 843 49
09, gragontiagriturismo@gmail.com, www.agriturismogragonti.it.
Q 5 rooms (singles €35 - €45, doubles
€70 - €90). 6UNKW
Il Ginepro Fighezia, Fluminimaggiore, tel. (+39) 340
598 17 69, flumini.ginepro@hotmail.it. Q 6 rooms
(singles €45 - €60, doubles €60 - €90, triples €75 - €120).
NK
Il Nuraghe Tuerra, Muravera, tel. (+39) 070 994 80
20/(+39) 340 579 54 91, info@agriturismoilnuraghe.
it, www.agriturismoilnuraghe.it. Q 8 rooms (singles
€30 - €40, doubles €60 - €80, triples €90 - €120). Book in
advance. PUNK
La Grotta del Tesoro Su Benatzu, Santadi, tel. (+39)
0781 95 58 93, ellobon@hotmail.it. Q 11 rooms (singles
€30 - €40, doubles €60 - €80, triples and quads upon request).
PUNK
L’Aquila Is Gennas, Arbus, tel. (+39) 347 822 24 26,
ginetta.leo@gmail.com, www.agriturismolaquila.com.
Q 5 rooms (singles €35 - €40, doubles €70 - €80). Book in
advance. P6UNK
Le Riad Murrecci, Gonnesa, tel. (+39) 320 312 50 30,
recasula@libero.it, www.agriturismoleriad.com. Q 12
rooms (doubles €65 - €80, triples €95 - €110, quads €120).
PA6UKCW
Minni Minni Masone Murtas 46, Castiadas, tel. (+39)
070 994 70 39, minniminni@live.it, www.agriturismominniminni.com.
Q 9 rooms (singles €35 - €40, doubles
€70 - €80). 6UNK
Monte Gruttas Monte Gruttas 84, Castiadas, tel.
(+39) 070 994 91 45, agriturismomontegruttas@gmail.
com. Q 4 rooms (singles €30 - €40, doubles €60 - €80),
2 self-catering apartments (€40 - €50 per person). Book in
advance. P6UNK
Perdaba vico III Vittorio Emanuele 15, Fluminimaggiore,
tel. (+39) 0781 58 05 33, agriturismo_perdaba@yahoo.
it. Q 5 rooms (singles €35 - €55, doubles €50 - €70). Book
in advance. PNKW
Praidis Masone Pardu, Castiadas, tel. (+39) 338 861 07
41/(+39) 327 498 36 54, info@praidis.it, www.praidis.
it. Q 5 self-catering apartments (€35 - €65 per person).
Book in advance. PAUKW
Rocca Su Moru Genna de Bentu, Arbus, tel. (+39) 349
404 25 56, info@agriturismoroccasumoru.it, www.agriturismoroccasumoru.it.
Q 12 rooms (singles €40 - €45,
doubles €80 - €90). PUNK
Sa Mandria Sa Mandria, Castiadas, tel. (+39) 070 994
70 26/(+39) 334 301 31 38, agrisamandria@tiscali.
it, http://digilander.libero.it/agriturismosamandria.
Q 4 rooms (singles €30 - €40, doubles €60 - €80). Book
in advance. NK
San Giorgio Flumentepido 122, Carbonia, tel. (+39)
328 873 15 91, agriturismos.giorgio@hotmail.it.
Q 11 rooms (singles €30 - €40, doubles €60 - €80). Book
in advance. P6UNK
Santu Marcialis Santu Marcialis, Soleminis, tel.
(+39) 070 74 05 98, santumarcialis@tin.it. Q 5 rooms
(singles €25 - €30, doubles €50 - €60). Book in advance.
PA6UK
Sa Perda Marcada Sa Perda Marcada, Arbus, tel./fax
(+39) 070 975 87 14, tel. (+39) 320 870 68 14, info@saperdamarcada.it,
www.saperdamarcada.it. Q 8 rooms
(singles €45, doubles €70). Book in advance. 6UNKW
Sa Rocca Medau Ladus, Acquaresi, Iglesias, tel. (+39)
320 773 21 72/(+39) 347 433 46 05, l.fe52@tiscali.
it, www.agriturismosarocca.com. Q 10 rooms (singles
€35 - €50, doubles €50 - €70). PA6UK
Sa Tanca Montevecchio, Arbus, tel. (+39) 340 910
52 65, agri.satanca@tiscali.it, www.agrisatanca.com.
Q 5 rooms (singles €36 - €40, doubles €72 - €80). PNK
Simbirizzi Baullanu, Quartucciu, tel. (+39) 070 84 15
43/(+39) 328 929 03 33, info@agriturismosimbirizzi.
it, www.agriturismosimbirizzi.it. Q 4 rooms (singles
€33 - €43, doubles €60 - €80). Book in advance. PA6U
Su Meurreddu via Nuraxi 12, Tratalias, tel. (+39)
347 123 03 91, michele.pirosu@yahoo.it. Q 6 rooms
(singles €25 - €37, doubles €50 - €74, triples and quads upon
request). Book in advance. P6UNK
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

22 RestauRants
Sardinians eat quite late, even for continental Italian
standards. In this respect, Spanish influence is still
to be felt. Lunch won’t be much before 13:00 and can
go on until 16:00, depending where you are and how
much you’re prepared to eat. Dinner is not before
20:00, but is often much later... the real thing this is
and not some tourist trap, of which thank God there
are very few in town. Most restaurants, having been
open for lunch, give their kitchen staff a few hours
break in the afternoon, meaning that chefs don’t
get back to their stoves and start preparing for the
evening meals before 18:30. Do give them enough
time to do what they’re best at, or else you might be
disappointed.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
6 Animal friendly M Nearest station
R Internet
Italian
51 B-2, via Santa Croce 51, tel. (+39) 070 858 66 29,
info@ristorante51.com, www.ristorante51.com. Set in a
historical building with an arched high ceiling made of original
stone and preserved from the old structure of the building, as
well as a breath-taking panoramic terrace, overlooking the gulf
of Cagliari, 51 is simply lush. From the furniture to the smallest
details, such as the single use toothbrush with toothpaste,
this restaurant evokes elegance and refinement. The à la
carte menu is rich and vast, offering a series of delights from
oysters, carpaccio, raw shrimp, pasta, meat and fish, as well
as some exquisite desserts. 51 will take you on a journey of
flavours and good wine. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 20:00 - 24:00,
Mon 20:00 - 24:00. €€€. PJAGBX
Da Cesare G-3, via Darwin 2, tel. (+39) 070 30 47 68,
fax (+39) 070 34 07 55, ristorantecesare@caesarshotel.it.
This restaurant is located inside Caesar’s Hotel and
it more than matches its standards and style. Despite the
largeness of the halls, the interior remains intimate, elegant
and relaxing. Lots of space between the tables avoids the
place from getting too cramped, even when at its busiest. Italian
cuisine, with many typical Sardinian dishes on the menu,
cleverly thought, well cooked and even better presented; the
same is to be said about the rich buffet. Staff is exceptionally
friendly, which is not something you would necessarily expect
in such a large establishment. QOpen 12:30 - 15:00 (buffet
only), 20:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 15:00. Closed 13 - 31
August. €€€. PAG
Dal Corsaro C-3, viale Regina Margherita 28, tel. (+39)
070 66 43 18, dalcorsaro@tiscali.it, www.dalcorsaro.
com. This sumptuous and sophisticated restaurant first
opened its doors in 1967. Dal Corsaro welcomes its clients
in a warm yet elegant atmosphere. Endless study and the
on-going research for the best local products results in a
cutting-edge cuisine. Pamper yourself with some daily homemade
fresh bread, pasta and pastries, as well as some of their
exquisite dishes, all prepared by the young and up-and-coming
talented chef, Stefano Deidda. When he is not travelling, you
Price Guide
€ expect to have more than enough to eat and not spend
more than €12 - €15
€€ a two course-meal and some table wine could cost
you between €20 - €25
€€€ a full three-course meal won’t cost you less than
€35
€€€€ you’re in a top-end restaurant and be prepared
to spend over €50
have the opportunity to meet and speak to him as he is one
of the most prominent hopes of the Mediterranean cuisine.
Savour the delicious prawn dish with seared mushrooms
and cream, shrimp and shaved pecorino cheese. QOpen
12:30 - 14:30, 20:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. PJAG
Flora B-3, via Sassari 47, tel. (+39) 070 66 47 35,
ristoranteflora@tiscali.it, www.florasrl.com. This restaurant
is one the favourites among Cagliari’s businessmen
and professionals. Its elegant interiors and antique furniture
don’t make the atmosphere too formal, although be prepared
for an abundance of suits and ties. Also worth mentioning is
a collection of vases which is the pride of the friendly owners.
Recipes are typically Mediterranean with plenty of fishy
dishes, with a special thumbs-up to their octopus salad or
spaghetti with tomato sauce and small crabs, but the goat
stew and the tripe with tomato sauce and mint are just as
inviting. Their dishes are mostly gluten free and there’s even a
menu indicating calorie content. QOpen 13:00 - 14:30, 20:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun, August. €€€. PJA6GBXW
Lo Spinnaker H-4, porticciolo Marina Piccola, tel.
(+39) 070 37 02 95, www.ristorantelospinnaker.it. This
restaurant is in an exquisite location, at the city end of Poetto
beach, inside Marina Piccola, which is a locals’ favourite during
the summer months for cool promenades by the sea front.
They mainly serve fishy pasta dishes and risottos, as well as
grilling anything fresh that comes from the Mediterranean sea.
They also have a good selection of pizzas to choose from, if
seafood is not your cup of tea. Presentation and style, class
and comfort are surely at the top of this establishment’s
agenda. Remember to bring your credit card with you! Q
Open 12:30 - 15:30, 19:45 - 24:00, Mon 19:45 - 24:00. From
16 September closed Mon. €€€€. PAGB
Pizzerias
Lo Zodiaco B-3, via Sassari 59, tel. (+39) 070 67 03 33,
lozodiaco@hotmail.it, www.ristorantepizzerialozodiaco.
com. This smart pizzeria owes much of its reputation to the
elegant interior and the thin and crispy pizza, as well as their
refined pasta dishes, which always come in generous portions.
During the summer, dinner is served in a lovely garden,
with a huge palm tree, ivy and grapevine, creating a lively, but
reserved ambience. Try their famous pizza with vernaccia
wine, or pizza with mustela (a special type of Sardinian ham).
Booking a table at weekends is highly advisable. QOpen
20:00 - 24:00. August closed Mon. €€. PAGBX
Sardinian
Basilio C-2, via Satta 112/A, tel. (+39) 070 48 03
30, info@ristorantebasilio.it, www.ristorantebasilio.it.
Basilio was born in 1950 due to a bet. The great success of
the restaurant led to the renewal of the premises in 1991.
Gianfranco Deidda learned from his father’s experience and
managed to create a pleasant environment for customers
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

51
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Via Santa Croce 51, Cagliari
Tel. (+39) 070 858 66 29
www.ristorante51.com - info@ristorante51.com
who decide to spend a few hours in good company while
enjoying the delicious dishes of local and national culinary
tradition. This rustic style restaurant offers a welcoming
atmosphere and some delicious, traditional Sardinian dishes
such as spaghetti with clams and bottarga (grated dry
mullet eggs), risotto alla pescatora, donkey meat, horse
parasangue (a particular cut of meat) and so much more.
QOpen 12:30 - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun, 12 - 22
August. €€€. PAG
Opera Prima C-4, via Campidano 9, tel. (+39) 070 68
46 19, opera.prima@tiscali.it, www.operaprimacagliari.
com. A bright and spacious environment to enjoy typical
Sardinian specialities but also innovative dishes presented
with imagination. The atmosphere is elegant but at the same
time it gives you a homely feeling and the staff is always ready
to satisfy your every need. Grilled meat, fried or baked mixed
fish and delicious home-made desserts, all complemented by
an extensive choice of wines, brandies and muscat. To name
a few of their specialities, you should definitely try the horse
steak, if you are a meat lover or you can go for something
simpler, such as linguine with prawns and asparagus or sea
bream baked with black olives and to finish off your culinary
sojourn try a platter of fresh season fruit. QOpen 12:30 -
15:00, 19:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PAG
Principi di Dan B-3, via Napoli 77, tel. (+39) 070 204
70 31, principididan@hotmail.it. This small cave-like restaurant
is located in a Marina quarter street so narrow that
deliveries need to be made on foot. Although fairly new on the
local eating scene, it has made its name among restaurantgoers
in town thanks to the generosity of their portions and
customer care, but most of all to the extraordinary quality of
the products they use, which are principally Sardinian and
organic. The local crowds usually go mad for their suckling pig,
cooked according to the traditional Sardinian and no-longer
common method, i.e. it’s wrapped in indigenous aromatic
herbs, placed in a hole underground and covered, then baked
with a big fire lit on top of it. Primitive yet sophisticated!
QOpen 20:00 - 24:00. €€. PJAGB
Sa Domu Sarda B-3, via Sassari 51, tel. (+39) 070 65
34 00, sadomusarda@gmail.com. Domu means ‘home’ in
Sardinian and this is exactly what this remarkable restaurant
tries to reproduce, with its rustic but smart furniture. The
homely feeling is helped by the friendly and efficient staff,
but especially by their succulent recipes, which are modern
versions of traditional Sardinian cuisine. Try the culurgiones
(Sardinian dumplings, usually with a potato and cheese
filling) with saffron and leek cream; or the fregola with artichokes.
A highlight of their menu is game, so expect to find
yourself eating dear, hare or wild boar, depending on the day.
QOpen 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 23:30, Sat 20:00 - 23:30.
€€. PJAG
RestauRants
Semplicemente A-2, viale Merello 60, tel. (+39) 070 29
09 89, info@ristorantesemplicemente.com, www.ristorantesemplicemente.com.
The moment you walk in, you will notice
the refined and simple décor throughout the restaurant, which is
the result of a very simple yet original idea: throughout the year
the restaurant hosts a series of professional chefs for a period of
time, each of whom will take you on a different culinary experience
and journey. The menu is never the same and always original
while maintaining their philosophy of simple natural dishes with
local seasonal fresh produce. Allow yourself a bit of extravagance
and satiate your appetite ordering a risotto with chanterelles and
truffle butter with lemon grass and leccine salty olives to start
off and finish with a slice of cake accompanied by home-made
ice-cream and some good wine. QOpen 13:00 - 15:00, 20:00 -
22:30, Sun 13:00 - 15:00. Closed 14 - 16 August. €€€€. PAG
Agriturismo
Le Vigne Ducali Bau Is Ceas, Mandas, tel. (+39)
349 132 80 60, levigneducali@tiscali.it. Located in
Mandas, a village in the Trexenta hills, 55km north of Cagliari,
Le Vigne Ducali is a smart agriturismo with a winning
combination of comfort and rustic interior touches.
The menu here is prepared the traditional Sardinian way,
from homemade pasta to meat dishes. Definitely worth
the drive! Q Book in advance. €€€. PA6UG
San Martino via degli Hibiscus, Quartu Sant’Elena,
tel. (+39) 393 924 52 78, santumartino@live.it, www.
agriturismosanmartinoquartu.com. With a fine location
just a few kms from Poetto beach, San Martino serves up
some of the best traditional fare in the Cagliari metropolitan
area. The food focuses on local favourites, with plenty of pasta
dishes, such as malloreddus alla campidanese, alongside
delicious meats. Q Book in advance. €€. PAU
Sa Stiddiadroscia Pidixi, Gesturi, tel. (+39) 070
936 00 28/(+39) 328 959 46 26, ignazio.mu@
tiscali.it, www.agriturismogesturi.it. A few km’s
from the Giara Plateau (an hour’s drive from Cagliari), Sa
Stiddiadroscia is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of Sardinian
countryside. Roast pork and lamb are the stars of
the show, although the pasta dishes are also excellent.
Great value for money! Q Book in advance. €€. UK
Su Gagliardu Riu Mortoriu, Villanovafranca, tel. (+39)
349 730 42 81, ivano.sb@tiscali.it. This unpretentious
agriturismo some 50km north of Cagliari has earned an
enviable culinary reputation on the back of Sardinian dishes
such as malloreddus and roast pork, backed up by potent
local wines. They can also arrange organised horseback
riding excursions. Q Book in advance. €€€. 6UN
August - September 2012
23

24 Cafés
Antico Caffè 1855 C-3, piazza Costituzione 10-11,
tel. (+39) 070 65 82 06, info@anticocaffe1855.it,
www.anticocaffe1855.it. Giving onto the Saint Remy
Rampart, this cafe, bistro-bar offers some of the finest
pastries in town along with handmade ice cream, crêpes,
cocktails, wines and traditional Mediterranean food. It
all began in 1838 when Lorenzo Canepa emigrated from
a small village near Genoa and opened a small meeting
place in Cagliari, named after himself. In 1855 it changed
name to Caffé Genovese and became the meeting point
for artists and town bourgeois. Refurbished in 1998, it
once again changed its name becoming Antico Caffè.
It serves an array of fresh pastries, Italian espresso
and cappuccino for breakfast. Before lunch and dinner
it changes into an elegant bar where aperitifs and wines
are served along a variety of delicious finger foods.
Beloved from locals, businessmen and tourists, it is the
ideal stylish meeting place for visitors who want to treat
themselves to something special. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00.
PTJA6GBXW
Bar Centrale B-3, piazza Yenne 34, tel. (+39) 070 65
78 75. The name of this cafe says it all. This establishment
is one the many bars looking onto central piazza Yenne. It
has a pleasant terrace with tables and gazebos. It changes
its character during the day. It serves early morning breakfast
the Italian way: that is cappuccino and pastries. During
daytime it has a good selection of fresh salads, sandwiches
and focacce. During the evening and nights it becomes a
bar, serving cocktails and beers, as well as ice-creams. It gets
really crowded at weekends and during the summer months.
Q Open 06:30 - 02:00. December - February closed Sun.
PJBXW
Caffè delle Arti C-3, via del Fossario 1, tel. (+39)
392 396 39 58, info@caffedellearti.com. Right next
to the Cathedral Museum, this establishment truly is
a hidden gem, built on the old city walls. Apart from a
pleasant indoor room, customers will have their breath
taken by the outstanding view of the city and the gulf of
Cagliari from the outdoor terrace, which is not visible from
the street. Elegant, quiet and very reserved, the service
friendly and quick, it is the ideal place for a coffee break
during your sightseeing tour of the old town, or indeed a
romantic pre-dinner aperitif, usually served with complimentary
finger food. Also a good option for a light lunch
or an informal dinner. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Sat 10:30
- 02:00. PJEBX
Ice-cream parlours
Cremeria Ritz B-3, via Sassari 70, tel. (+39) 329 540
96 01, cremeriaritz@tiscali.it. Many Cagliaritani say
that Cremeria Ritz, in the heart of Stampace, serves the
creamiest, the freshest, and in a word, the finest ice-cream
in town. You be the judge, but we happen to agree that most
of the flavours here, particularly hazelnut, pistachio and
stracciatella (chocolate chip) are to die for. And the super
sapori di Sardegna (dark chocolate with almond and orange)
is so sinful it should be made illegal. Cremeria Ritz also offers
a variety of coeliac-friendly gluten-free flavours and special
low calorie options for those watching their waist line. They’re
celebrating 10 years of ice-cream selling this year and have
obviously got it right! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 16:00
- 23:00. PJG
€1 = GBP0.78; US$1.23
(27 July 2012)
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Clubs
La Paillote H-4, viale Calamosca, Calafighera, tel. (+39)
070 37 15 84, info@lapaillote.it, www.lapaillote.it. Just
5 minute’s car ride away from the centre of town this exclusive
club is situated in one of Cagliari’s most stunning locations,
Cala Fighera and comes complete with a cool restaurant,
American bar and solarium. You’ll find typical Mediterranean
cuisine with the finest seafood in the restaurant whilst the
American bar is open from early in the morning to happy hour
when the sun goes down. The solarium will make you feel like
you’re on a seaside holiday. Enjoy a club sandwich or one of
their many salads for lunch while relaxing on your very own
beach chair under a straw umbrella. Friday night is DJ night.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 09:00 - 20:30. Restaurant
closed Mon. PA6GBX
Gay Cagliari
Cagliari is an overall tolerant city, its population is curious
and welcomes changes. It can therefore be comfortably
defined as gay tolerant. However, don’t imagine a Mediterranean
version of London or San Francisco. It certainly
isn’t. And although cagliaritani have grown accustomed
to the presence of homosexuals as a reality of everyday
professional and social life, it probably isn’t ready yet
for the most open displays of affection or eccentricity.
Socially speaking, there is no proper gay area or gay club
in Cagliari, as you might find in many other cities. There
are a number of gay-friendly bars, restaurants, hotels
and B&Bs, especially around piazza Yenne.
The gay scene is never less alive and kicking. There is a
very active cultural organisation called ARC (Associazione
Culturale Gay Lesbica Bisessuale Transgender
Cagliari, www.associazionearc.eu), which is on the
forefront of gay rights and anti-discrimination campaigns.
Fico d’India H-2, lungomare Poetto, 7th bus stop,
tel. (+39) 348 274 92 36, mauriziomarongiu@
msn.com. Though not the only kiosk along Poetto to
be frequented by the local gay scene, it has definitely
been the point of reference for the community for a
long time. During the day a normal café by the beach,
with the usual range of sandwiches, ice-creams and
beverages, on warm summer evenings it dresses itself
up! There’s entertainment almost every night, with live
music, dj sets and drag queens. A historical-cultural touch
is provided by the adjacent Torre di Mezza Spiaggia,
a 17th century tower (closed to public), reminiscence of
the Spanish domination. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 03:00. BX
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Pubs
Il Birrificio di Cagliari G-1, via Newton 24, tel. (+39)
070 456 05 69, birrificiodicagliari@gmail.com, www.
ilbirrificiodicagliari.com. This place is well worth the drive or
the bus ride (by route 15) to get there. Somewhere in between
a pub and a restaurant, its main feature are without a hint
of a doubt its fantastic beers, which are all brewed in situ
with as much care as a surgeon on a patient! The brewing
machinery is visible from the main lounge, definitely setting
an appropriate atmosphere. There’s a lager, a stout, a bitter
and weiss beer which are named after Cagliari’s historical
quarters. There are also seasonal beers, such as Poetto,
which is a Belgian style blanche beer, light and breezy, perfect
for the summer. Very good pub food, with classics such as
beef stew, roast pork with bacon and potatoes or chicken
curry. Vegetarian- and coeliac-friendly options are available,
as well as a kids menu. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.
PTALG
Poetto beach
Lido Beach Club H-3, viale Poetto 41, tel. (+39) 329
572 58 22, biviservice@email.com. The only proper peer
along the whole of Poetto beach belongs to the Lido. The
venue has been completely renovated and a new management
has taken over for the summer. Entertainment starts
in the early evening, with an aperitif looking over the shallow
waters and background music. You can choose to dine at
the next-door restaurant and be back in the groove for the
start of the soirée, around 23:30. During the first days of the
week there’s live music and DJ sets on every other day, with
music ranging from hip-hop to dance and revival music. On
Sunday nights, resident DJ is a very well-known local pop-star,
playing mainly classic Italian rock and pop tunes. QOpen
19:00 - 04:00. PAB
Twist H-3, viale Poetto, 5th bus stop, tel. (+39) 348
274 92 36, mauriziomarongiu@msn.com. This is a pivotal
meeting point for locals who want to see and be seen. It’s
one of the few places in town where the white-shirt yuppie
chats to the surfer in flip-flops or the banker sits next to a
tattoo artist covered in ink. It provides all the services of a
town-centre café, but you can’t beat a deck-chair on the sand
under an ever-shining sun. If you’re in need of something more
refreshing, take a seat under one of their large umbrellas and
enjoy a freshly-made salad or slices of cold watermelon. If
looking for something a bit more solid, there are also grilled
steaks and fries on the menu. At night, the place takes a
twist - hence the name? - and becomes an American bar,
professionally serving cocktails and entertaining customers
with dj sets and live music. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 03:00. BX
August - September 2012
25

SPECIAL TOURIST OFFER

28 What to see
Castello
Castello in Sardinian is called Castedd'e susu, which
means 'upper castle', because this is what it was and,
from an architectural point of view, still is.
Castello is perched on the top of a white rock which looks
directly onto the gulf of Cagliari. The site was used in the
remote past, though probably not urbanised: the Punic
and Roman cisterns built to collect water and the Roman
amphitheatre carved out of one of its slopes are just two
examples.
It wasn't until the 13th century, when the Pisans began
creating their commercial outposts in Sardinia, that the
strategic importance of Castello became apparent. They
decided to take control of the hill and soon blocked access
to it, fortifying the rock with heavy walls and three large
towers, two of which are still in pristine condition and are
among the main attactions Cagliari has to offer. They also
built the Cathedral.
When the Aragonese and then the Spanish took over
power in Sardinia (14th-18th century), they kept Cagliari
as their capital. They improved and enlarged the walls of
the castle, modernising the defensive system. Sardinians
were effectively cut out from power and important positions,
and were only allowed to have humble jobs during
daytime. When the day drew to an end, a horn was the
signal for the local population to leave the castle or else be
even thrown down from the walls.
The Savoy family took power at the beginning of the 18th
century and also made many improvements, but the
most radical changes occurred in the 19th century, when
Cagliari, and therefore Castello, stopped being a military
fortress. Instead of mighty defensive bastions, the new
promenades and terraces (e.g. Saint Remy Rampart and
Buon Cammino) became the places where the cagliaritani
could mingle and socialise.
Although the richer families have left, and the population
has decreased over the years, Castello is living a new
phase, buildings are being restored, there are new bars
and restaurants; art galleries and shops are being opened
and it is overall coming back to life, after generations of
romantic but decadent neglect.
Basilica of the Holy Cross (Basilica di Santa
Croce) B-2, via Corte d'Appello 44, tel. (+39) 070 235
52 84, www.santacrocecagliari.it. The basilica of the Holy
Cross was built in the 16th century along a section of the city
walls which was given the same name, Holy Cross Rampart
(Bastione di Santa Croce). Prior to its construction, on the
same ground was the synagogue. After the expulsion of the
Jews from all territories under the Spanish Crown in 1492,
the temple was demolished and replaced by the basilica.
Santa Croce was assigned to the Jesuits, until 1773, when
the Society of Jesus was suppressed. The basilica was then
assigned to the knightly Order of Saints Maurice and Lazarus.
Although its conditions are not pristine, it has recently
undergone some restoration work. On Sunday mornings it's
the weekly appointment for traditional Catholics, who attend
Latin mass. QOpen 09:30 - 12:00. Admission free.
Cathedral Museum (Museo del Duomo) B-3, via
del Fossario 5, tel. (+39) 070 65 24 98/(+39) 333 765
98 75. The museum hosts the Treasure of the Cathedral,
which had long remained under lock and key. Among the most
interesting works on display, a 15th century triptych, known
as the Triptych of Clement VII, allegedly by Flemish painter
Rogier Van der Weyden. Rich 16th, 17th and 18th liturgical
vestments can be seen, as well the much older ones which
belonged to Saint Augustine. On the first of the three floors
of the museum there is a small but precious collection of
silver chalices, crosses and shrines, some of which date
back as far as the 14th century. At the moment, information
in the museum is only in Italian and so are the guided tours.
Q Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30. Admission
€4, conc. €2.50.
Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption (Cattedrale
di Santa Maria Assunta) B-2, piazza Palazzo
4, tel. (+39) 070 66 38 37, www.duomodicagliari.it. The
church of St Mary became the city's cathedral in the 13th
century. Few traces of the medieval structure remain: the
steeple, the two Romanesque side doors and the so-called
Pisan Chapel, dedicated to the Sacred Heart. As it is today,
the cathedral has a latin-cross plan, with a transept and three
naves. During the 17th century, the building underwent its first
major reconstruction work. The inside and the façade were
changed, following the Baroque fashion of the time. It was not
until the 1930s that the façade was yet again restyled, according
to a Neo-Romanesque pattern. The Sanctuary of the
Martyrs hosted in the crypt is home to 179 niches containing
relics of Cagliari's martyrs. QOpen 07:30 - 12:00, 16:00 -
20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30. Admission free.
Elephant Tower (Torre dell'Elefante) B-3, piazza San
Giuseppe, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83. This mighty tower
was built by architect Giovanni Capula in 1307 on the Castello
hill, facing the sea. Along with the other two towers, St Pancras
and Eagle (which no longer exists), it was intended to guard
one of the main entrances to Castello and to bolster the city
walls, which were being built in the same period. Elephant
Tower occupied the most south-western point of the castle.
Its dominant position is nowadays less apparent due to a
number of civilian and military buildings which surround it, built
in the 17th and 18th centuries. Similarly to the St Pancras
Tower, it is made from local limestone and its wooden floors
divide it in four levels. During the Aragonese domination, a
wall on the northern side was built, allowing the tower to be
used for storage and as a prison. On the southern wall of the
tower a small statue of an elephant is still visible, hence the
name of the site, as well as the original Pisan families' coats
of arms. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 2, 9, 23 and
30 Aug 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Admission €4, conc.
€2.50.
The Karalis Card
If you’re trying pack
the most into your
time in Cagliari,
consider picking up
the Karalis Card,
good for 365 days
(€30, U18 and over
60 €25). Cardholders
will gain free or
reduced-price ad-
© Consorzio Camù
mission to the city’s
museums and monuments. The Karalis Card is sold in
museums, in major hotels and restaurants, at the Cagliari-
Elmas airport, at the railway station and at the Tourist
Information centres. For more details, consult the website
at www.karaliscard.it.
www.inyourpocket.com
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Saint Remy Rampart © www.comune.cagliari
Indoor Promenade (Passeggiata Coperta)
B/C-3, piazza Costituzione, tel. (+39) 347 000 39
88, g.sperone@gmail.com. The Passeggiata Coperta
is contemporary to the Saint Remy Rampart and it is
in fact built within its structure. Featuring shiny marble
floors, high ceilings, supported by grand arches and pillars,
it has been used as a location for exhibitions since
as early as the 1930s and it was then heavily damaged by
WWII air-raids. It was brought back to its original aspect,
further refurbished in the 1980s and again recently. It is
enshrined within the old city fortified walls, parts of which
are currently visible inside. This fine venue is managed and
used by the city authorities to host temporary exhibitions
and installations, as well as meetings and conferences.
QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon.
Admission free.
Old Town Hall (Antico Palazzo di Città) B-3,
piazza Palazzo 6, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 82. The Old
Town Hall probably dates back to as early as the 14th
century. It was destined to host the assemblies of the
city representatives and then the Town Hall, before the
new one was built. Its present-day aspect is an example of
18th century Piedmontese-Baroque. Above the entrance
door, an inscription in memory of the visit by Emperor
Charles V and above that, Cagliari's coat of arms. It then
became the city's conservatoire and it's now a cultural
space used by the city council to host exhibitions. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, conc. €2.50.
Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) B-2, piazza Palazzo
1, tel. (+39) 070 409 24 28. The Royal Palace
has existed since the 14th century as the residence
of Aragonese, Spanish and then Savoy Viceroys. The
present-day setting of the building is the result of major
restoration works by Savoy military engineers in the 18th
century. Between 1779 and 1815, it became the official
residence of the Savoy court, during their exile from Turin
due to the French occupation of Piedmont. When Cagliari
ceased to be the official capital of the Kingdom, the Palace
lost its institutional role and came under the Provincial
authority, which it still is. The Palace can be visited and
although there aren't any guided tours as such, with the
aid of audio-visual equipment (for the moment only in
Italian), it is possible to wonder through the 18th century
halls, adorned with fine painting and frescoes. QOpen
09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 18:30. Admission free.
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Saint Remy Rampart (Bastione Saint Remy)
B/C-3, piazza Costituzione. Probably the most noticeable
monument in Cagliari. It was built in white limestone
at the end of the 19th century, after Cagliari ceased to be
a military fortress and gradually its defensive walls were
pulled down. It is the result of three fortified bastions which
were then joined together. From piazza Costituzione, the
first thing you see is a mighty double staircase surmounted
by a large arch. Once you reach the top, you are met by a
vast terrace with benches and palm trees. The view is
breath-taking. You don't have to walk up all the steps and
the lazy visitor can take the lift (open 24/7, free of charge),
which is about 100m further up along viale Regina Elena.
Don't miss the romantic sunset, before you walk down to
the Marina quarter for dinner. Q Admission free.
St Pancras Tower (Torre di San Pancrazio) B-2,
piazza Indipendenza, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 00. The
St Pancras Tower was built in 1305 on the highest peak
of what is now known as Castello. The construction was
commissioned to Sardinian architect Giovanni Capula and it
was intended to play a pivotal role in the city's new defensive
system, protecting the northern entrance of Castello.
The tower is made of white limestone and is open on the
side facing piazza Indipendenza. During the Aragonese and
then Spanish domination, the fourth wall of the tower was
completed, allowing it to be used as a fortified warehouse
and lodgings for civil servants. Until the end of the 19th
century, the tower was used as a jail. At the beginning of
the 20th century, the tower underwent major restoration
work and was brought back to its original 3-wall shape.
QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, conc.
€2.50.
University and Old College (Palazzo
dell'Università ed ex Seminario) B-3, via Università
40, tel. (+39) 070 67 51, www.unica.it. The University
of Cagliari was officially founded at the beginning of the
17th century, but it had to wait until 1770 to have its own
monumental building. Together with the annexed seminar,
it was built on a part of the old walls, just yards away from
the Elephant Tower and present-day Saint Remy Rampart.
The two buildings are adjacent, structured on three levels
and each has its own entrance: one leads to the administrative
offices of the rectorate and the other to the University
Library. Both have inner courtyards and it's usually possible
to reach the back and have a small walk on part of the old
city walls, with inspiring views of the harbour and the gulf
of Cagliari. The ground floor of the former College building
also hosts the Collezione Sarda Luigi Piloni, consisting
of seven rooms where ancient maps and prints, Sardinian
costumes and artefacts, as well as local religious art and
jewellery, are on display. QOpen 08:15 - 19:15, Sat 08:15
- 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Citadel of Museums (Cittadella dei Musei)
The Citadel of Museums is situated just north of Castello,
and since the major works carried out by military
architects Rocco Cappellino and the Palearo brothers
in the 16th century, it is included within perimeter of the
fortification system of the city, subsequently extended and
improved by the Savoys during the 18th century. It was
principally used as an arsenal and foundry, as well as a
jail and subsequently barracks. Heavily damaged in WWII,
it was later abandoned and only in the 1960s it was destined
to host a number of museums and areas for temporary
exhibitions. Visitors can enjoy a cafe with a pleasant
terrace and a somewhat limited selection of snacks. The
area also has amazing views of the gulf of Cagliari.
August - September 2012
29

30 What to see
Museum of Siamese Art (Museo d'Arte Siamese
Stefano Cardu) B-2, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070
65 18 88. The exhibits on display are part of Stefano Cardu's
collection of Siamese and Oriental art, which he gathered during
the long period he spent in present-day Thailand. When
he returned to Cagliari, he donated the collection to the city.
It includes precious pottery; various objects made of ivory,
among which some Japanese miniature statues representing
social stereotypes and dragons; silver jewellery; weapons,
such as daggers, swords and spears; paintings and furniture.
Currently on display is also a private collection of Burmese
art, especially wood statues. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission €2, conc. €1.
National Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico
Nazionale) B/C-1, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39)
070 65 59 11, www.archeocaor.beniculturali.it. The
museum is housed within the old walls of the Royal Arsenal
(Regio Arsenale). The exhibits on display give a fascinating
outlook on Sardinia's ancient history. It displays archaeological
finds dating as far back as the Pre-Nuragic era (6000BC)
and the Nuragic period, with a large number of small bronze
statues representing, amongst others, warriors, divinities,
animals, men and women. Also the later phases of the Phoenician
and Punic colonization in Sardinia, between 8th and 3rd
centuries BC are well represented. QOpen 09:00 - 19:15.
Closed Mon. Admission: €3, conc. €1.50. U18 and over 65
free. Joint saver ticket for the National Archaeological Museum
and the National Gallery €5, conc. €2.50.
National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale) B-2,
piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 66 24 96, www.
pinacoteca.cagliari.beniculturali.it. A contemporary
building hosts the National Gallery. In its three floors, parts
of the old Spanish and Savoy city walls have been integrated
with the rooms where the pictures are on display. Most of
the works of the museum were gathered during the 19th
century, when the new-born Italian kingdom claimed ownership
over Church property. Another important part of the
collection is made of the pictures which used to be held
at the no longer existing St Francis's church, many dating
as far back as the 14th century. Also on display, works by
Sardinian artist Pietro Cavaro, active between 1508 and
1538. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €3,
conc. €1.50. U18 and over 65 free. Joint saver ticket for the
National Gallery and the National Archaeological Museum
€5, conc. €2.50.
Wax Anatomical Models Museum (Museo delle
Cere Anatomiche Clemente Susini) B/C-1, piazza
Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 675 76 27. It was 1801 when
Francesco Boi, professor of human anatomy at the University
of Cagliari, was granted the permission to take a sabbatical
period in mainland Italy in order to learn about the latest
discoveries in surgery. Based on Boi's dissections, artist
Clemente Susini created his wax models, which are still today
a very realistic representation of parts of the human body.
The collection got to Cagliari after it was bought by King Carlo
Felice, who wanted to have it on display in his palace as a
marvel of those times. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission: €1.50, conc. €0.50.
Marina
Marina was already urbanised more than two thousand
years ago and its life has always been centred around the
harbour.
It was abandoned for centuries during the Middle Ages,
but in the the 13th century the Pisans set up their commercial
activities in the area then called Lapola, between
the waterfront and Castello, they built walls around it and
the quarter has flourished ever since.
When the defensive walls which surrounded the Marina
were pulled down in the 19th century, the quarter opened
up to the rest of the city and the wide streets that mark its
borders are still important features: via Roma, that runs
along the port, with its arcades, cafes and shops; viale Regina
Margherita, and its exclusive restaurants, leading up
to Saint Remy Rampart; largo Carlo Felice, with its banks
and shops, is still one of the city's main arteries.
However, to get the feel of the Marina, you must venture
into the narrow streets, just behind via Roma, and hear the
voices of its multi-ethnic population talking from window to
window, the delicious smells coming from the kitchens of
its many restaurants and just walk around.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Chiesa di San Sepolcro)
B-3, piazza San Sepolcro, tel. (+39) 070 66 37
24. Although it is not possible to provide an exact date for
its founding, the history of the church is intertwined with that
of the knightly Order of the Holy Sepulchre, which established
their headquarters here. The Order was active in Cagliari as
early as the 16th century and its main mission was to provide
burial to the poor. The main entrance to the church is on its
right-hand side, which gives onto the square. The church
has a single nave with side chapels. The altar in Our Lady of
Mercy Chapel is actually one of the finest examples of the
Baroque style in Cagliari. Thanks to restoration works in the
1980s, the sepulchral crypt is also open to visitors. QOpen
10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
St Augustine's
Church (Chiesa
di Sant'Agostino)
B-3, via Baylle, tel.
(+39) 070 66 42
36. The building of
this church began in
1577 and the project
is by Giorgio Palearo,
famous at the time for
being, along with his
brother Jacopo, one
© Arcidiocesi di Cagliari of the most influential
military architects in
Europe. At the time the two were indeed in Cagliari, working
at the new fortifications of the city and they were asked by
Philip II of Spain himself to build a church dedicated to Saint
Augustine. This was to partly compensate the demolition
of the old Augustine convent, which had been necessary
to allow the construction of the new city walls. It is one the
very few Renaissance style buildings in Sardinia and has a
Greek-cross plan, barrel vaults and a semi-spherical cupola.
Entry to the church is both through the front portal as well
as from the sacristy, along largo Carlo Felice. QOpen 08:00
- 12:00. Admission free.
St Eulalia's Church, archaeological site and
Treasure Museum (Chiesa di Sant'Eulalia, area
archeologica e Museo del Tesoro) B-3, vico del
Collegio 2, tel. (+39) 070 66 37 24. The Parish church
of St Eulalia was built by the Aragonese towards the end
of the 14th century and named after the patron saint of
Barcelona. The building was severely damaged during WWII
bombings. Restoration works have brought back the inside
to its Aragonese-Gothic style.
During the consolidation of the foundations of the building,
archaeologists unveiled the remains of water cisterns dating
back to the pre-Roman period, paved roads, a house and what
was possibly a temple. The visit to the underground site gives
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

an idea of how the various civilizations used the site for over
2,000 years, with the knowledgeable museum guides bringing
the visitors deep down into the roots of the city. For those of
you who don't speak Italian, captions are available in English,
Spanish and French. Upstairs is the Treasure Museum, with
an interesting collection of church paraments, chalices and
statues. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Mon 10:00 -
13:00, 14:00 - 16:00. Admission €6, U12 €2.50.
Via Roma and Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale) A/B-
3/4/C-4. Cagliari's main street runs along the sea-front, opposite
the harbour. After the demolition of the old walls which
protected the Marina quarter from raids by enemy fleets, via
Roma gradually became an elegant promenade with cafés
and shops, under the arcades. At one end, the street features
the contemporary building of the Regional Parliament, while
at the other end, opposite the train and bus stations, is the
Town Hall. The building was inaugurated in 1907 and severely
damaged during the WWII. It is inspired by Catalan-Gothic and
Art Nouveau styles. It follows the patterns of the arcades
along via Roma and the limestone façade has seven arches
and two central 38m high octagonal turrets. On the front gate,
a bronze eagle holds the coat of arms of Cagliari. A walk along
via Roma is a must if you want to get a general idea of what
Cagliari can be as a whole. It's not unusual to see old men
in suits discussing the latest political scandal, teenagers
strolling along and holding hands, sailors and dockworkers
sitting next to regional government functionaries, or even the
major walking by on his way to his office.
Botanical Garden and Herbarium (Orto Botanico
e Museo Herbarium) A-2, via Sant'Ignazio da Laconi
11, tel. (+39) 070 675 35 22, info@ccbsardegna.it,
www.ccb-sardegna.it/virtual/virtualorto.html. If you're
in need of some shade after having walked about Cagliari's
city centre on a warm sunny morning, or indeed if you're a
lover of plants, in particular special Mediterranean varieties,
tropical or succulent species, then it's worth checking out
the University of Cagliari's Botanical Garden, inaugurated
in 1866. It's about 5 hectares big and features some 600
trees and 1,000 succulent plants. Located at the bottom of
the Roman Amphitheatre (although there is no thoroughfare
between these two places), the gardens also proudly include
ancient Phoenician and Roman cisterns, now fertile breeding
zones for water lilies and papyrus. The Herbarium is a mainly
scientific structure and on display also are some exinct spe-
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Stampace
The name Stampace probably originates from the old
greeting stai in pace (stay in peace). Stampace is, among
the four historical quarters of Cagliari, probably the one
which still bears the most testimonies of the ancient civilizations
which lived in the area since the Punic and then cies. Beautifully quiet and cool, it surely is a great break
Roman colonisations.
from heat and crowds. QOpen 08:30 - 13:30. Admission
isola_che_vorrei_tracc.indd 1 25/05/12 10:12
After the Pisan conquest, in the 13th century, Stampace €3. Guided tour €5. Guided tour and admission to Herbarium
was a village mainly lived by artisans, wrapped inside its €6. U6 and over 65 free.
no-longer existing walls, of which the only remnant is the
Buttress Gate (Porta dello Sperone), at the top of via House of Tigellius (Villa di Tigellio) A-3, via Tigellio,
Azuni. Although Stampace suffered badly during the WWII tel. (+39) 070 677 64 70. This archaeological site was
bombings and has now become largely multi-ethnic, it still named after the famous poet and bard, Tigellius, a contem-
preserves its traditional character. A street festival called porary of emperor Augustus, well known for his wealthy and
Cuccurus Cottus (the old nickname for the inhabitants of extravagant life style, who allegedly resided here in a luxurious
Stampace, which in Sardinian means ‘hot heads') is held villa. In fact, a more accurate study of the area has revealed
every August, when the quarter is brought back to life by a series of different houses in what probably used to be a
the thousands of people that gather.
residential area in ancient Karalis, existing as early as the
Nightlife in Stampace is definitely Cagliari's liveliest, with 1st century BC. A visit to the site can give visitors the idea of
its dozens of bars and restaurants, both north and south what a Roman house used to be like, especially with the aid
of the main street, corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Don't miss of visual reconstructions available at reception. Visibile today
it!
are the impluvia, i.e. the area of the house where rainwater
was harvested, the small bedrooms, as well as fragments of
frescoes and mosaic floors. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission €3, conc. €1.90.
Piazza Yenne B-3. It's the main meeting point for locals,
especially during the hot summer nights. People gather here
to have a chat before moving up to Castello or to some club
out of town; to sit in the terraces of the many cafes and bars,
sipping cocktails or Sardinian beer; or simply, to have a walk
while slurping a large homemade ice-cream. Piazza Yenne is
also an important cross-roads, ideally placed between Marina
and Stampace, just below the Elephant Tower, at the edge
of Castello. Piazza Yenne is where the state road 131 from
Cagliari to Sassari used to start from, and the statue at the
center of the roundabout represents King Carlo Felice, who
uses his left arm to point the way. Among Sardinians, the road
131 is still nowadays called la Carlo Felice!
August - September 2012
31

32 What to see
Roman Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro romano) B-1,
via Sant'Ignazio da Laconi 19, tel. (+39) 070 65 29 56,
www.anfiteatroromano.it. Probably the most important
building of the Roman period still visible in Sardinia. It's almost
entirely carved in the sloping rock, using the natural valley
that goes down from Buon Cammino. It was built between
the 1st and 2nd century AD and it could originally seat up
to 10,000 spectators. The terraces were divided into three
different orders, depending on the social level spectators
belonged to. The shows included fights between gladiators,
or against wild beasts, which used to be kept in cages, at the
sides of the arena, and still visible today. Following restoration
in the 1980s, in summer the amphitheatre host concerts and
other events. The walk along Buon Cammino to get there
is magnificent, rewarded as it is by beautiful views and a
downhill walk back down to piazza Yenne. QOpen 09:30 -
13:30, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.30,
conc. €2.80. U6 free.
St Anne's Church (Chiesa di Sant'Anna) B-2, via
Azuni, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 63. The foundation stone of
the parish church of St Anne, based on architect Giuseppe
Viana's initial project, was laid in 1785, but the building wasn't
inaugurated until 1818 and then finished in the 1930s. It was
severly damaged during WWII and didn't re-open until 1951.
The structure of the church is a typical example of Baroque
architecture, although the style's characteristic decorations
weren't restored after the latest reparation works. Its twin
steeples are a benchmark in Stampace's skyline and the
church is an important religious and social point of reference
for Cagliari's old town. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Admission free.
St Michael's Church (Chiesa di San Michele) B-3,
via Ospedale 12, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 26. The church
was consecrated in 1738, although it's construction had
begun much earlier, and had been possible thanks to a large
donation by politician and lawyer Francesco Angelo Dessì,
who died in 1674. He had been very close to the Society of
Jesus, which used to have a novitiate building on the site of
the present-day church, which still belongs to the Jesuits.
The building is indeed the typical Jesuit church as regards
architecture and is probably the finest example of Baroque
art in Cagliari. It is ideally placed for a quick visit, just few
minutes' walk away from piazza Yenne. Guided tours also in
English. QOpen 8:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sun 08.30 -
12:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Admission free.
St Restituta's Crypt (Cripta di Santa Restituta)
B-3, via Sant'Efisio 14, tel. (+39) 070 640 21 15. This
hypogeal space was believed to have been the site of Saint
Restituta's martyrdom. The crypt was long forgotten and,
during the 17th century excavations, the ancient relics
were found, leading to a partial restoration of the site and
its embellishment with altars and statues. During the WWII
bombardments, the relics were transferred to neighbouring
St Anne's church, while the crypt was used as an air-raid
shelter. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Villanova
Villanova (in Sardinian Bidda Noa, which means 'New
Town') is probably the most recent of the four historical
quarters in Cagliari, although 13th century documents
prove its existence. Traditionally, its main activity was
agriculture. For some centuries, it had walls built around
it, which used to follow what is now one of Cagliari's main
shopping streets, via Garibaldi, and they are no longer
visible. The old part of the quarter gives the visitor the impression
of being in a small village. It mainly lives along via
San Giovanni, the churches of St James and St Dominic,
and the many narrow streets and alleyways.
Until only a decade ago, it was not unusual to see its inhabitants
grilling fresh fish outdoors, especially on Sunday
mornings.
Even though in the recent years, Villanova has lost some
of its more socially folkloristic aspects, the quarter has
improved a lot and is living a new birth. The old buildings
are being restored and via Sulis, the part of Villanova
closer to Saint Remy Rampart, has now become a highend
shopping street, while carpenters and small shops
are gradually opening up their activities, making a walk
through Villanova a worthwhile experience.
Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria (Basilica di Nostra
Signora di Bonaria) D-3, piazza Bonaria, tel. (+39)
070 30 17 47, www.bonaria.eu. The basilica of Bonaria,
the sanctuary and the convent are built on the hill south-east
of the city centre and about a 15/20 minute walk from via
Roma. The initial church, which maintains its original Gothic
architecture, was built after 1323, on the site where the
Aragonese decided to set up their camp and lay siege to the
city. It was then donated to the Order of Our Lady of Mercy,
who then built a convent. In 1370, during a terrible storm in
the gulf of Cagliari, a ship wrecked and part of its load, a large
case containing a very fine statue of Our Lady, was found on
the shore in front of the church. Both the statue and the case
are on public display. The building of the adjacent basilica
started in the 18th century and it was then resumed, but not
finished until 1926. The complex is surrounded by a small but
pleasant park, with nice views over the port. QOpen 06:30
- 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 16:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
City Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Comunale
d'Arte Moderna) B-2, largo Giuseppe Dessì, tel. (+39)
070 677 75 98, www.galleriacomunalecagliari.it. In the
beautiful setting of the Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici), the
City Gallery of Modern Art is hosted in a fine Neo-Classical
building. The museum displays its works on two floors and
holds, as a permanent exhibition, the Ingrao Collection, with
19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures by Italian
artists such as Umberto Boccioni, to whom an entire room is
dedicated, Giorgio Morandi and Mino Maccari, among many
others. On the ground floor is the Sardinian Collection (Collezione
Sarda), displaying a selection of works by Sardinian
artists. The museum has a well-stocked shop, with a fairly
large selection of books and souvenirs. Guided tours in English
or French to be booked in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Tue. Admission €6, conc. €2.60.
Exmà C-3, via San Lucifero 71, tel. (+39) 070 66 63 99,
www.camuweb.it. Exmà is a multi-functional space which
regularly hosts temporary exhibitions, screening of movies,
theatre and live music shows. It is located inside the closed
walls of the old city slaughterhouse, which was renovated
in 1993, becoming at the time the most modern and lively
cultural venue in Cagliari. Right beside a very busy road,
Exmà is a quiet oasis of peace, with a hamlet-like feeling to
it. It is definitely worth paying a visit after seeing St Saturn's
Basilica, which is only a few minutes' walk away. QOpen
09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 2, 9, 23 and 30
Aug open 18:00 - 24:00. Admission free. Special exhibitions
may charge an admission fee.
St James's Church (Chiesa di San Giacomo) C-3,
piazza San Giacomo 3, tel. (+39) 070 66 28 71. This is
one of the oldest parish churches in Cagliari and documents
date it back as early as the 14th century. It was built in the
typical Catalan-Gothic style of the time. It underwent restoration
works in the 18th and then the 19th century, which added
the Neo-Classical façade, based on a project by architect
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Gaetano Cima. The main structure has preserved many
Gothic elements, e.g. the steeple, the apse behind the main
altar and four side chapels. It's worth to walk in to have a look,
while walking around the busy shopping streets of Villanova.
QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Admission free.
St Saturn's Basilica (Basilica di San Saturno) D-3,
piazza San Cosimo, tel. (+39) 070 65 98 69. The basilica
is probably the most ancient example of Romanesque architecture
in Cagliari. A 6th century document mentions the site
for the first time. It had probably already been built in the place
where young Saturn had been martyred in 304AD. The church
and the adjacent monastery were gradually abandoned during
the Middle Ages, then restored during the Spanish domination,
before part of its limestone bricks were used for restoration
works in the Cathedral. The surrounding necropolis has given
light to many Roman and Byzantine burials. Only the central
part of what used to be the Greek cross plan is visible. QOpen
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
Other sights
Cave of the Viper (Grotta della Vipera) F-1, viale
Sant'Avendrace 87, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 00. The Cave
of the Viper is a burial monument which was erected between
the 1st and 2nd century AD. Lucius Cassius Philippus, a
Roman who had been exiled to Sardinia, dedicated it to his
wife Atilia Pomptilla, who was buried there. The legend tells
us that during a bad illness that Lucius had been suffering
from, his wife prayed so much that she ended up dying in his
place. Though fairly small, the monument is important for
the engraved poems in Latin and Ancient Greek at the sides
of the grotto. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
Lazaret (Lazzaretto) G-4, via dei Navigatori, tel. (+39)
070 383 80 85, www.lazzarettodicagliari.it. This building
used to be the lazaret of the city and it dates back to the 16th
century. It was built in what was then a completely isolated
area, far from the city and was intended to keep people and
goods coming from the sea, which needed to be quarantined.
This was a common practice of the time and the idea was
to prevent the spreading of epidemics carried by ships and
sailors. The structure is currently used for concerts, theatre,
temporary exhibitions and festivals of different kinds. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission €5, conc. €3.
Molentargius Saline Park (Parco Naturale Regionale
Molentargius Saline) G-3, Edificio Sali Scelti, via
La Palma, tel. (+39) 070 37 91 92 01, www.parcomolentargius.it.
Molentargius Saline Park includes the ancient salt
mines (saline), whose use is certified by documents dating
back to the Roman period, and the Molentargius pond itself,
with its protected wildlife. Home to flamingoes and other
species of residential and migratory birds, the park is ideally
placed between Monte Urpinu hill and Poetto beach, giving
visitors the possibility to trek, run or cycle. There are also
spots for bird watching. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Admission
free. Bicycle rental €3/hour, €9 daily, U10 €1/hour, €5 daily.
Guided tours by boat €5, U10 €3 (book in advance).
Poetto beach H-2/3. It is the longest beach in Sardinia and
the main coastal resort for the cagliaritani. It stretches for
around 8km. During the summer months it's at its best and
caters for many needs. It's not short of restaurants, pizzerias,
cafés and bars. On the beach itself, the crowds are incredibly
variable and many people love to go to a certain part of it
but absolutely not one kilometre further back or further on.
There are however some features which remain the same all
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
What to see
The Lazaret © Lazzaretto di Cagliari
along Poetto beach. The sea of course, which can be blissfully
crystal-clear when the much awaited north-westerly mistral
wind is blowing. Access to the beach is free of cost, although
scattered along its whole length there are footbridges across
the sand leading to designated areas where you can hire
pedal boats, beach-beds, deck-chairs and sun-umbrellas,
have showers and so on.
Another element of pride and pleasure, as well as an absolute
must for locals, are the beach kiosks (chioschi), which are
located along the seafront. Every café-kiosk is different, but
without exceptions they all serve coffees, soft drinks, beers,
sandwiches and pastries; in the summer months, they are
all open seven days a week till late at night.
Poetto is also very popular with sport lovers, for running
and cycling, kite- and wind-surfing, sailing, swimming and
so on, which effectively makes the entire beach area a huge
open-air gym.
There's an increased bus service during the summer months,
which takes thousands of people back and forth to the beach
(take any bus line bearing a “P”). At night however, you're better
off if you have a car, take a taxi or else be prepared for a
one-hour walk back to the city centre.
St Michael Castle (Castello di San Michele) F-1,
via Sirai, tel. (+39) 070 50 06 56, www.camuweb.it. The
castle is in the north-western outskirts of the city and the hill
where it was built is now a pleasant park for walks and relaxing
views of Cagliari's skyline, even though it's surrounded
by blocks of flats. It dates back to the 14th century and it
was needed by the Aragonese conquerors to consolidate
their power and to prevent attempts of invasion from the
north. Despite the many transformations made to it over the
centuries, the castle has preserved its three mighty towers
and a deep moat around it. St Michael Castle is used as a
venue for temporary exhibitions and other events. QOpen
16:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, conc. €4.
August - September 2012
33

34 GettinG around
Airlines
Air Berlin Tel. 199 40 07 37, www.airberlin.com. Düsseldorf,
Munich.
Alitalia Tel. 89 20 10, www.alitalia.com. Milan-Linate,
Rome-Fiumicino.
British Airways Tel. 199 71 22 66, www.ba.com.
London-Gatwick.
EasyJet Tel. 899 23 45 89, www.easyjet.com. Basel,
Berlin-Schönefeld, Geneva, London-Stansted, Milan-Malpensa,
Paris-Orly.
Germanwings Tel. 199 25 70 13, www.germanwings.
com. Cologne, Stuttgart.
Meridiana Fly Tel. 89 29 28, www.meridiana.it. Bologna,
Florence, Milan-Linate, Naples, Olbia, Palermo, Rome-
Fiumicino, Turin, Verona.
Ryanair Tel. 89 55 00 00 20, www.ryanair.com. Bari,
Barcelona, Beauvais, Bergamo, Charleroi, Cuneo, Frankfurt-
Hahn, Genoa, Girona, Ibiza, Karlsruhe, Krakow, Madrid,
Marseille, Parma, Pescara, Perugia, Pisa, Rome-Ciampino,
Seville, Trapani, Trieste, Valencia, Venice, Weeze.
SmartWings Tel. (+420) 255 70 08 27, www.smartwings.com.
Prague.
Volotea Tel. 199 208 717, www.volotea.com. Ancona,
Brindisi, Venice.
Bicycle rental
Bicincittà B-3/4, Palazzo Comunale, piazza De Gasperi
2, 6th floor, tel. (+39) 070 677 85 85/800 45 63 00,
www.bicincitta.com. A card is needed to rent a bicycle and
can be purchased at the Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale). You
must be 18 or older and have an ID card or passport. So far
there are four locations from where the bicycle can be picked
up or dropped off (cicloposteggio), in via Sonnino, piazza
della Repubblica, piazza Giovanni XXIII and at Marina Piccola.
QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Card €30, including €25€ annual fee plus
€5 spending charge.
Bus & Tourist Train tours
City Tour Cagliari B-3, piazza Yenne, tel. 800 42 28
50, www.citytourcagliari.com. The open top bus tour
takes approximately one hour and will take you around
to see the the most remarkable sights there are to visit
in Cagliari. You'll get the chance to see the old city walls
and towers driving around Castello, rather than through
it. You'll see the Roman Amphitheatre and the beautiful
views of the gulf of the Angels. The tour even takes you
as far as Poetto beach and if you're lucky you'll have the
possibility to see flamingoes. Q Dept. 09:30 - 19:30.
€10, 5-12 €5, U5 free.
Trenino Cagliaritano B-3, piazza del Carmine, tel.
(+39) 070 65 55 49, www.trenino.it. 'Welcome on
board' is the logo for the tourist train. The journey lasts
about 45 minutes and it goes under the old medieval
towers, then taking you through the narrow, cobbled
streets of Castello, giving visitors the opportunity to
see some beautiful views of the harbour and the surrounding
lagoons. Q Dept. 10:00 - 19:00. March dept.
10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. January and February no
service. €8, U3 free.
Buses
Public transportation network CTM provides a somewhat
efficient and fast service around the city and
the suburbs. Tickets can be bought from CTM Point,
newspaper stands and tobacconists, marked with a
T sign outside the shop. 90-minute ticket €1.20 when
purchased in advance or €1.70 on the bus. Have exact
change ready when you buy the ticket on the bus. Other
options include a 1-day ticket (€2) and a 7-day ticket
(€12), both valid on Metrocagliari too. Tickets must be
clipped once on board.
CTM Point B-4, piazza Matteotti, tel. 800 07 88 70,
www.ctmcagliari.it. Q Open 07:45 - 19:15. Closed Sun.
Car parking
The city centre is partially closed to traffic with few parking
stalls available. We advise to park in the Metropark
Cagliari which is only a five minute walk from piazza Yenne.
In front of the car park there is a bus stop.
Metropark Cagliari B-4, piazza Matteotti, tel. 800 65
00 06, www.metropark.it. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Hourly
rate €1, daily rate €10, monthly rate €80. A
Car rental
All you need to rent a car is a credit card, an ID card
or passport and valid driving licence. Some companies
do require a minimum age and minimum driving
experience. If renting a car with children you must also
rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their age and
weight.
Avis (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39)
070 24 00 31, www.avisautonoleggio.it.
Avis (city) C-4, via Roma 16, tel. (+39) 070 67 49 03,
www.avisautonoleggio.it.
Budget E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24
11 49, www.budgetautonoleggio.it.
Europcar (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel.
(+39) 070 24 01 26, www.europcar.it.
Europcar (city) F-1, viale Monastir km 3.550, tel. (+39)
070 208 41 15, www.europcar.it.
Hertz (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39)
070 24 00 37, www.hertz.it.
Hertz (city) B-4, piazza Matteotti 8, tel. (+39) 070 65
10 78, www.hertz.it.
Maggiore (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel.
(+39) 070 24 08 18, www.maggiore.it.
Maggiore (city) F-1, viale Monastir 116, tel. (+39)
070 27 36 92, www.maggiore.it.
Sixt E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 21 20
45, www.sixt.it.
Guided tours
L'Isola che vorrei B-3, piazza Yenne, tel. (+39) 328
276 11 64/(+39) 347 367 45 98, info@isolachevorrei.
com, www.cagliaritour.com. A young and dynamic group of
professionals organise guided tours of Cagliari and surrounding
areas. You'll set off on foot or on a small coach with one of
the friendly tour guides, ready to go and explore the historical
city center or the beach or some of Cagliari's underground
sites. In fact, you can have your tailor-made tour and can
venture out as far as Villasimius, Nora or Barumini, just to
name a few. Tours in English, German, French and Spanish.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Price upon request.
Metro
Metrocagliari C/D-2, piazza della Repubblica,
MRepubblica, tel. (+39) 070 57 93 01, informazioni.ca@arst.sardegna.it,
http://arst.sardegna.it/
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Internet & Wi-Fi
In the era of laptops and smartphones, what you really
need are hotspots. There is free outdoor Wi-Fi in
via Roma, in largo Carlo Felice and at Marina Piccola.
Start your laptop/smartphone, connect and follow the
instructions. Many bars and cafés have free Wi-Fi as
well.
Lamarì Internet Café B-3, via Napoli 43, tel. (+39)
070 66 84 07, lamari.cafe@email.it. Very warm and
welcoming atmosphere. English speaking staff. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
orari_e_autolinee/servizi_metroca.html. At the moment
Metrocagliari only operates one surface line, from piazza
della Repubblica to neighbouring Monserrato, part of outer
Cagliari. Trains run every 10 minutes throughout the day.
Q Ticket office open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00.
90-minute ticket €1.20.
Motorbike and Scooter rental
Car.Bus.Tec F-2, piazza Giovanni XXIII 26, tel. (+39)
070 49 83 99, info@carbustec.com, www.carbustec.
com. If you are looking for excitement and an all Italian
experience then you might be interested in renting out a
scooter or motorbike. All you need is a credit card, an ID card
or passport and valid driving licence. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Scooter rental €17-€65 per day.
Motorbike rental €35-€110 per day.
Rickshaw & Segway tours
Cagliari Segway Tour B-4, molo Sanità, tel. (+39) 347
053 31 96, info@newwaysardinia.it, www.newwaysardinia.it.
Segway tours are a great way to discover Cagliari with
an effortless glide. You set off from the port, and then a guide
will accompany through the lively narrow streets of Marina
and all the way up to Castello. Those of you who require it, can
use an audio guide in English. If you've never ridden on such
type of transport before, no panic: you receive assistance,
a safety helmet and basic training. Q Dept. 10:00, 16:30.
1hr 30mins €25, 2hrs 30mins €40. U12 and over 70 cannot
ride. Book in advance.
Cagliari Touring B-3/4, via Roma 107, tel. (+39) 346
875 92 13, ape.d@tiscali.it. Experience the narrow streets
of the old city, ride thorough centuries-old gates and towers,
smell the fumes of fresh tomato sauce coming out of people's
kitchens in Castello, marvel looking at the views of the gulf of
the Angels... but do it with style and fun on board this beautiful
Italian rickshaw. Claudio, the chauffeur-entrepreneur, can
take a maximum of three people all the way up the steep
hills of Cagliari. Booking in advance recommended. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. €10.
Ta xi
Cagliari's taxis are safe and generally reliable. The starting
rate is €3 with a per kilometre rate of €0.90, which goes
up to €1.30 at night time or when driving out of town. Few
taxi drivers speak English. Cheating is rare.
Radio Taxi 4 Mori, tel. (+39) 070 40 01 01, radiotaxi@
email.it, www.cagliaritaxi.com. Q Operating 24/7.
Radio Taxi Cagliari Rossoblu, tel. (+39) 070 66 55,
info@radiotaxirossoblu.com, www.radiotaxirossoblu.
com. Q Operating 24/7.
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
GettinG around
August - September 2012
35

36 Shopping
Shopping in Cagliari is not just running around a shopping
center but actually strolling down the city's narrow, cobbled
streets while enjoying the marvelous experience of shopping.
Italy is famous for its high-end fashion and Cagliari is
no exception. You can find anything from your typical street
bargain to high-end fashions and couture.
Most of the shopping areas are concentrated around the
city center. Some of the most famous streets for shopping
around Cagliari are via Alghero and the up and coming
outdoor shopping mall located in Villanova. Via Sulis offers
visitors from high-end fashion boutiques to vintage and
jewelry stores. Largo Carlo Felice and via Roma are also
lined up with a vast variety of shops from bookshops, antiques
to the well renown La Rinascente department store.
Via Manno and via Garibaldi are great for bargain finds and
small boutique browsing. Both are pedestrian streets with
plenty of shops filled with stores selling clothing, accessories
and handicrafts.
Keep in mind that shops are closed on Sundays and the
majority close also during lunchtime. Lunchtime closing
hours vary from shop to shop but most close from
13:00/13:30 to 16:30/17:00.
Markets
Mercato San Benedetto C-1, via Cocco Ortu, tel. (+39)
070 40 33 96, www.mercatosanbenedetto.com. If you are
looking to buy and taste, locally grown fresh produce then you
are in the right place. Mercato San Benedetto is one of the
biggest fresh produce markets in Europe. Opened in 1957, it
is a two level structure of about 4,000 square meters each.
The fish-seafood department is located on the ground floor
(a must see) while the fresh produce sections such as, meat,
cheese, fresh baked bread, locally grown organic fruit and
vegetables are located on the upper floor. There are about 240
stalls available to visit and buy products from. If this is not part
of your travel guide itinerary then you must include it. Savour
a couple of hours mingling with the locals and tourists while
visiting this lively market. QOpen 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Supermarkets
Carrefour Quartu S. Elena G-1, viale Marconi 5,
Quartu Sant'Elena, tel. (+39) 070 82 81 81. Probably the
largest and better stocked supermarket in Sardinia, it's part
of the shopping centre Le Vele. You can find a huge selection
of goods. Top range electronics, including smartphones,
computers and televisions, for your technological necessities.
Good selection of outdoor furniture and equipment, clothes
and household goods. If you want fresh food, they have a
bakery, a butcher's and a fishmonger's, as well as a good
selection of ready-made roast or fried chicken and potatoes,
cakes and so much more. There's pretty much everything
Italian when it comes to eating, as well as local Sardinian
products, including wines and spirits. There's a large parking
place outside. If you don't have a car, jump on buses 30 or 31
from via Roma. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. PALG
Department Stores
La Rinascente B-3, via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 65 32
71, www.larinascente.it. For those who love shopping but
hate going from shop to shop, La Rinascente is a one stop shop.
A high-end department store that has something for everyone.
Whether you are looking for that perfect evening dress or an every
day to day bag or maybe a new pair of sunglasses or why not,
a new watch, this department store has it all. Men's, women's,
children's luxury collections, beauty, accessories, houseware
items and lingerie. Impossible to miss. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 2, 9, 23 and 30 August 09:00 - 24:00.
Bookshops
La libreria di via Sulis C-3, via Sulis 3/A, tel. (+39)
070 667 02 81, www.lalibreriadiviasulis.com. This new
entry on Cagliari's shopping scene is much more than a simple
bookshop. In one of the classiest shopping streets in town it
offers an elegant collection of design, fashion, photography
and architecture books with a large selection of out-of-print
titles too. It also stocks a selection of MoMA merchandise,
books and catalogues alongside locally produced handicrafts.
Paintings and photographs by young Sardinian artists add to
the décor in this tastefully bright shop. QOpen 10:30 - 13:30,
18:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Mon.
Fashion
Class B-3, via Sardegna 16, tel. (+39) 070 66 67 69/
(+39) 349 750 88 22, info@classboutique.it, www.
classboutique.it. This central shop has been in business
for over twenty years, providing high quality garments for
demanding customers. They mostly deal in men's clothes, in
particular Italian top brands, and cater for many different needs.
Businessmen will find elegant and classic suits and ties for the
most formal and professional occasions. If you're looking for
something more casual for your everyday smartness, there's a
classy line of jackets, shirts, polo shirts, loafers and many other
accessories. A selection of exclusive swimwear guarantees
style on the beach or by the swimming pool. Last minute tailor
adjustments can be arranged and the shop can even stay open
extra hours to satisfy special requests. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00,
16:30 - 20:30, Sat 16:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun.
Furla B-3, via Manno 41, tel. (+39) 070 68 09 65, www.
furla.com. Furla has been creating high-quality bags, shoes
and accessories of essential elegance since 1927 and is
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

known throughout the world as an expression of authentic
Italian style. It's on the climb up one of Cagliari's main shopping
streets and full of world class fashion. Feel uplifted by
the strong, unconventional tones of the new Autumn-Winter
2012/13 collection and treat yourself to the ultimate expression
of the Furla concept, the new reversible, versatile and
functional It-Bag. QOpen 10:00 - 13:30, 17:00 - 20:30.
Closed Sun.
Gruppo Collu G-1, via dei Giudicati 35, tel. (+39) 070
40 17 20, info@gruppocollu.it, www.gruppocollu.it. A
large and elegant fashion store. Its history goes back more
than forty years and it has worked hard to keep up-to-date
with the latest trends. Here you can find some of the best
international and Italian brands for men, women and kids.
Whether you want to dress smart, business-casual or trendy,
in this establishment you can do it with style, and with the
valuable and professional help of the staff. If you have a car,
it's worth driving out of town to Assemini (15km northwest of
Cagliari) and visit their other store, which is even bigger and
better stocked. QOpen 09:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30, Mon
16:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun, 16 and 17 August.
Food
Delizie di Sardegna B-3, via Sardegna 22, tel. (+39)
070 66 93 80/(+39) 349 059 89 88, info@deliziedisardegna.it,
www.deliziedisardegna.it. This shop offers
a truly large selection of very good quality only-Sardinian
products. Be tempted by traditional cakes, honey and jams,
as well as other organic products of the island, such as olive
oil, artichokes in oil, myrtle wine and fil'e ferru (a type of local
grappa), just to name a few. Also a good range of typical Sardinian
linen and ceramics for sale. You can also order a cabinet
or a chest, and the shop manager will arrange the shipping to
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
your home address. Tailor-made Sardinian costumes can be
created, though allow up to a few weeks for final delivery. If
you're looking for a gift to bring back home, there's also a large
variety of souvenirs to choose from. QOpen 09:15 - 22:30.
Gifts
Il Cherubino C-3, via Torino 10, tel. (+39) 070 65 70 43.
In the heart of the shopping district, Il Cherubino boasts a vast
collection of porcelain, silver and period jewellery, not to mention
its vintage curiosities and designer clothing, specialising
in big name vintage collections by designers such as Chanel,
Dior and YSL. Accessories are straight from Hollywood, from
the famous Gucci crocodile skin bag to the original 50s Kelly
bag by Hermès. An impressive range of designer jewellery
scarves and sunglasses will also tempt you if vintage is your
thing. QOpen 10:30 - 13:30, 17:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun.
Jewellery
Loredana Mandas B-3, via Sicilia 31, tel. (+39) 070
66 76 48, info@loredanamandas.com, www.loredanamandas.com.
In Loredana Mandas's laboratory, one of the
few filigree jewellery artisans in southern Sardinia, you can
feel the thrill of assisting her while she is creating entirely by
hand one of the typical island jewels. In her shop window are
shown from traditional ethnic jewellery to geometric motifs,
pendants, earrings and rings embellished with precious and
semiprecious stones. Loredana Mandas's shop is a must see
for those who appreciate high quality handmade jewellery and
want the guarantee of having a traditional piece of jewellery
of a Sardinian craftswoman. If no one is in the shop ring the
bell on the right, as Loredana lives just above the shop, she
will come down and assist you. QOpen 09:30 - 13:00, 16:30
- 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. J
August - September 2012
37

38 LifestyLe directory
Dentists
Centro Odontoiatrico Sardo Baire A-3, via Roma 52,
tel. (+39) 070 66 76 00, cosbaire@gmail.com, www.
centroodontoiatricosardo.com. Q Closed 13 - 18 August.
Dr. Alessandra Pinna C-1, via Cavalcanti 30, tel. (+39)
340 916 89 86, studiodentistico.pinna@gmail.com.
Studio Dentistico Associato Caruso B-3, corso
Vittorio Emanuele II 16, tel. (+39) 070 68 22 22, www.
dentistacaruso.it. Q Closed 13 - 18 August.
Studio Odontoiatrico Associato Falconi A-3,
via Mameli 222, tel. (+39) 070 27 21 20, studiofalconi@tiscali.it,
www.studioodontoiatricofalconi.com.
Q Closed 3 - 31 August.
Dry cleaners
Desogus C-2, via Satta 54, tel. (+39) 070 66 35 03.
QOpen 08:40 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lavasecco Pony C-3, via del Collegio 11, tel. (+39) 070
65 86 28. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun, 13 - 25 August.
Lavasecco San Giorgio C-3, via Iglesias 33, tel. (+39)
070 66 33 27. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Hairdressers & Beauty Salons
Cut&Go! Unisex D-2, via Cugia 10, tel. (+39) 070 311
40 30, info@cutandgounisex.com, www.cutandgounisex.
com. A one-stop hair and beauty space dedicated to pampering
you during your stay in Cagliari. Get hair extensions, 3D
colour or just a trim at Cut&Go! and then pass on to Care&Relax!
for makeup, lash-extensions, nail construction, spray tans, sun
beds, and beauty treatments with 100% biological products.
Whatever you want they can do it in Russian, German and
English too!QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Key cuts
Capra B-3, via Sassari 77/A, tel. (+39) 070 65 38 59.
QOpen 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun,
13 - 20 August.
Fratelli Binelli A-3, via Pola 14, tel. (+39) 070 65 83
65, fratellibinelli@yahoo.it. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30
- 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, 10 - 20 August.
Kindergartens
Baby in Giardino C-3, via Lanusei 27, tel. (+39) 070 66
43 46, bpingiardino@tiscali.it, www.babyingiardino.it.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, August.
Bim Bum Bimbo D-3, via Nuoro 10, tel. (+39) 334 233
06 15, www.bimbumbimbo.it. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun, 10 - 24 August.
Chatterbox A-4, viale La Plaia 11, tel. (+39) 070 684
85 51/(+39) 345 387 86 47, chatterbox@tiscali.it,
www.chatterboxenglishschool.co.uk. Kindergarden and
primary school. All classes held in English. Fully qualified
English-speaking staff. QOpen 07:45 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun,
August.
Happy Baby Asilo Nido in Inglese C-1, via Rossini 13,
tel. (+39) 328 859 37 83. English language kindergarten.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun, August.
Launderettes
Tintoria Universale G-2, via della Pineta 160, tel.
(+39) 070 30 27 83. QOpen 08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30,
Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun, 13 - 31 August.
www.inyourpocket.com
Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com

Libraries
Biblioteca Centro Giovani C-2, via Dante 11, MRepubblica,
tel. (+39) 070 677 81 73, info.centrogiovani@
comune.cagliari.it. This multi-functional centre is run by
the city council and is a useful spot for youths, but not
only. There's a public internet point, free of charge; a study
and reading room; a small public library and it's a hub for
bookcrossing. QOpen 08:30 - 20:15, Sat 08:30 - 19:45.
Closed Sun.
Cagliari University Library (Biblioteca Universitaria)
B-3, via Università 32, tel. (+39) 070 66 10 21.
You must be registered to borrow books. There's also a
reading room for old, even ancient, books which cannot be
taken out. QOpen 08:15 - 19:15, Sat 08:15 - 13:00. 1 - 11,
27 - 31 August 08:15 - 13:40. 13 - 25 August 09:00 - 11:00.
Closed Sun.
MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo A-3, via Mameli
164, tel. (+39) 070 677 38 65, mem@comune.cagliari.
it. It's the brand new civic multi-media library located in what
used to be a fresh-food market. Apart from a large selection
of books, DVDs and CDs, the centre hosts a number of cultural
activities and it has a charming cafeteria and free Wi-Fi.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Opticians
Ottica Cosentino C-3, via Sonnino 34/B, tel. (+39)
070 65 91 11, ottica.cosentino@tiscali.it, www.
otticacosentino.it. This conveniently located traditional
optician will be celebrating its 100th anniversary next year,
so it's one the oldest family-run businesses in town. They've
kept up to date and now sell fashionable sunglasses, quality
glasses and contact lenses, as well as providing specialised
assistance. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
cagliari.inyourpocket.com
LifestyLe directory
Photo service
Photo Service D-2, via Tuveri 14/B, MRepubblica, tel.
(+39) 070 40 33 09. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00,
Sat 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Shoe repairs
Calzoleria di Fabrizio Atzeni D-2, via Tuveri 62, tel.
(+39) 348 352 07 17. QOpen 07:30 - 13:00, 15:30 - 20:00,
Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Davide Lecca D-1, via Cimarosa 124, MGennari, tel.
(+39) 347 348 30 57. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, 6 - 31 August.
Sports & Fitness Clubs
Athlon Club D-2, via Degioannis 5, tel. (+39) 070 64
40 41, athlon.club@tiscali.it. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30, Sat
07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun, 13 - 18 August.
Formakalaris D-3, via Caboni 7, tel. (+39) 070 30
78 32. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun.
Swimming Pools
Società Sportiva Dilettantistica Acqua Sport G-3,
viale Diaz 227, tel. (+39) 070 30 70 04, info@piscineacquasport.it.
QOpen 07:00 - 16:00, 18:15 - 20:30, Tue,
Thu 12:15 - 16:00, 18:15 - 20:30. Closed Sat, Sun, August.
Tennis Courts
Tennis Club Cagliari D-1, via Gemelli 2, tel. (+39) 070
49 26 47/(+39) 345 437 36 20, segreteria@asdtennisclubcagliari.it.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
August - September 2012
39

40 Street index
Abba, via C-2
Alagon, via C-2
Alfieri, via C-1
Alghero, via C-2
Amat, via D-2
Amendola, piazza C-3/4
Anfiteatro, via B-2
Angioy, via B-3
Angius, via D-1
Annunziata, piazza A-3
Ariosto, via C-1
Arquer, via C-3
Arsenale, piazza B-2
Asproni, via A-3
Azuni, via B-3
Bacaredda, via B/C-1/2
Bainsizza, via A-2
Barcellona, via B-3/4
Barone Rossi, via C/D-3
Basilicata, via A-1
Baylle, via B-3/4
Bellini, via C-1
Belvedere, via B-2
Boito, via C/D-1
Bonaria, piazza D-3/4
Bonaria, viale C-3/4/D-3/4
Bosa, via B/C-2
Bottego, via D-3/4
Buon Cammino, viale A/B-2
Buragna, via B-3
Caboni, via D-2/3
Cammino Nuovo, via B-2/3
Campidano, via C-4
Canelles, via B-2/3/C-3
Canepa, via D-1
Cao di San Marco, via B/C-1
Caprera, via A-3
Carboni Boi, via D-2
Carbonia, via C-3
Carducci, via C-1/2
Carlo Alberto, piazza B-2/3
Carlo Felice, largo B-3
Carloforte, via A-3
Carrara, via D-2
Carso, via A-2
Catalani, via C/D-1
Cavour, via B/C-3
Cherubini, via C/D-2
Cima, via B-3
Cimarosa, via C-2/D-1/2
Cimitero, piazza D-3
Cimitero, viale D-3
Cino da Pistoia, via C-1
Cocco Ortu, via C-1
Collegio, via C-3
Collegio, vico B/C-3
Colombo, viale C/D-4
Concezione, via B-3/4/C-3/4
Corelli, via C-1
Corte d'Appello, via B-2/3
Costa, via B/C-1
Costituzione, piazza C-3
Crispi, via B-3
Cugia, via D-2
Dalmazia, via A-1
Dante, via C-1/2/D-2/3
d'Armi, piazza A-1
De Gasperi, piazza C-3
De Gioannis, via D-2/3
De Magistris, via A-3
Deffenu, piazza C-4
dei Pisani, via C-3
del Carmine, piazza B-3
Deledda, via C-2/3/D-2
Dessì, largo B-2
Dettori, piazza B-3
Dettori, via B-3
Don Bosco, via A-2
Donizetti, via C-1/2/D-1
Duomo, via B-3
Einaudi, via C-2
Eleonora d'Arborea, via C-3
Fadda, via D-2
Fais, via C/D-2
Fara, via B-2/3
Farina, via C-2
Fiume, via B-2
Foscolo, via C-1
Fossario, via B/C-3
Fra' Nicola da Gesturi, via A/B-2
G. Benedetta, via B-1
Gallura, via C-3
Garavetti, via D-1/2
Garibaldi, piazza C-2
Garibaldi, via C-2/3
Gemelli, via D-2
Gennari, largo D-1
Genovesi, via B-2/3
Gianturco, via D-2/3
Giardini Pubblici, via A-1/2/B-1
Giardini, via B-1/2
Goceano, via C/D-3
Gramsci, piazza C-3
Ichnusa, piazza C-3
Iglesias, via C-3
Indipendenza, piazza B-2
Irpinia, piazza B-1
Istria, via A-1
Kennedy, piazza B-1
La Maddalena, via B-3
La Plaia, viale A/B-4
La Vega, via B-1
Lai, via C-1
Lamarmora, via B-2/3
Lanusei, via C-3
Lazio, via A-1
Lepanto, via C-3/4
Liguria, via A/B-1
Logudoro, via C/D-3
Lombardia, via A-1
Macomer, via C-2
Malta, via A/B-3
Mameli, via A/B-3
Manno, via B-3
Manzoni, via C-1/2
Marche, via B-1
Marghinotti, piazza C-3
Marini, via D-2
Martiri, piazza B/C-3
Martiri, via B-2
Matteotti, piazza B-4
Mazzini, via B/C-3
Mercato Vecchio, via B-3
Merello I, vico A-2
Merello, viale A-1/2/3
Michelangelo, piazza C-1
Mille, via B-3/4
Molise, via A-1
Monti, via C-1/2
Napoli, via B-3/4
Negri, via C/D-2
Nicolodi, via A-1/2
Nuoro, via C/D-3
Oristano, via C-3
Oslavia, via A-2
Ospedale, via B-2/3
Ozieri, via B/C-2
Pacinotti, via C-1
Paganini, via D-1
Pais, via B/C-1
Palazzo, piazza B-2
Palomba, via D-2
Paoli, via C-1/2
Pascoli, via C-1
Perdixedda, via A-4
Pergolesi, via C/D-1
Pessina, via D-2
Petrarca, via C-1
Piccioni, via C-3
Piemonte, via A/B-1
Pierluigi da Palestrina, via C/D-1
Pitzolo, via C-2
Pola, via A-3
Ponchielli, via D-1
Porcell, via B-2
Porcile, via C-3/4
Porto Scalas, via B-3
Principe Amedeo, via B/C-3
Puccini, via C-1/2/D-1/2
Pula, via A-4
Regina Elena, viale
B-2/3/C-2/3
Regina Margherita,
piazza C-3
Regina Margherita,
viale C-3/4
Repubblica, piazza C/D-2
Riva di Ponente, via A/B-4
Roma, via A/B-3/4/C-4
Rossini, via C-1/2
Salaris, via B/C-1
Salento, piazza B-1
San Benedetto, piazza C-1
San Benedetto, via C-1
San Cosimo, piazza C/D-3
San Domenico, piazza C-2
San Domenico, via C-2
San Giacomo, piazza C-3
San Giacomo, via B/C-2
San Giorgio, via B-2
San Giovanni, via B-1/2/C-2/3
San Lucifero, via C/D-3
San Mauro, via B-1/2
San Paolo, via A-4
San Rocco, piazza B/C-1
San Rocco, via B-1
San Saturnino, via B-1/2
San Vetrano, via B-1
San Vincenzo, viale A/B-1/2
Sanjust, via D-1
Sanna Randaccio, via D-1/2
Santa Croce, via B-2/3
Santa Margherita, via B-2/3
Santa Restituta, via B-2/3
Sant'Agostino, via B-4
Sant'Alenikedda, via B/C-1
Sant'Efisio, via B-2/3
Sant'Eulalia, via B-3
Sant'Eusebio, via C-2/3/D-3
Sant'Ignazio, via A-2/3/B-3
Sardegna, via B-3
Sassari, via B-3/4
Satta, via C-2
Savoia, via B-3
Scano, via D-1/2
Sicilia, via B-3
Siotto Pintor, via B-2/3
Sonnino, via C-2/3/4
Spano, via B-3
Stazione Vecchia, via C-3/4
Stretta, via B-2/3
Sulis, via C-3
Tasso, via C-1
Tempio, via C-2
Tigellio, via A-3
Tiziano, via C-1
Todde, via C-1
Tola, via C-2
Torino, via C-3
Toscana, via A/B-1
Trentino, via A-1
Trento, via A-3
Trieste, viale A/B-3
Tristani, piazza B-1
Tristani, via B-1
Tuveri, via D-1/2
Umbria, via A-1
Università, via B-3
Verdi, via C/D-1
Vittorio Emanuele II,
corso A/B-3
Vittorio Veneto, via A-2
XX Settembre, via C-3
XXIV Maggio, via C-2
Yenne, piazza B-3
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50 Index
Agricantus 2000 18
Alitalia 34
Antica Residenza Marina di
Castello
ARST Bus Station (Stazione
16
ARST) 9
At Fourth 16
Avis (airport) 34
Avis (city) 34
Baccu Cardu 18
Bar Centrale 24
Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria
(Basilica di Nostra Signora di
Bonaria)
Basilica of the Holy Cross
32
(Basilica di Santa Croce) 28
Basilio 22
Bau Arena 18
Bim Bum Bimbo
Botanical Garden and
Herbarium (Orto Botanico e
38
Museo Herbarium) 31
British Airways 34
Budget 34
Caffè delle Arti 24
Cagliari Segway Tour 35
Cagliari Touring
Cagliari University Library
35
(Biblioteca Universitaria) 39
Calamosca 15
Camboni 18
Car.Bus.Tec 35
Cathedral Museum (Museo del
Duomo)
Cathedral of Saint Mary of
28
the Assumption (Cattedrale di
Santa Maria Assunta) 28
Cave of the Viper (Grotta della
Vipera) 33
Cesarò 18
Chatterbox 38
Chentu Lunas 15
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
(Chiesa di San Sepolcro)
City Gallery of Modern Art
(Galleria Comunale d'Arte
30
Moderna) 32
Costa Crociere 9
Costa del Sud 18
Cremeria Ritz 24
CTM Point 34
Da Cesare 22
Dal Corsaro 22
Davide Lecca 39
Delizie di Sardegna 37
Dr. Alessandra Pinna 38
Due Colonne 15
EasyJet
Elephant Tower (Torre
34
dell'Elefante) 28
Europcar (airport) 34
Europcar (city) 34
Exmà 32
Fico d'India 25
Flora 22
Formakalaris 39
Fratelli Binelli 38
Furla 36
Germanwings 34
Gragonti 18
Gruppo Collu
Happy Baby Asilo Nido in
37
Inglese 38
Hertz (airport) 34
Hertz (city) 34
Holiday Inn Cagliari
House of Tigellius (Villa di
14
Tigellio)
Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa
31
Maria 15
Il Birrificio di Cagliari 25
Il Cagliarese 16
Il Cherubino 37
Il Ginepro 18
Il Nuraghe 18
Il Perugino 16
Il Profumo del Mare
Indoor Promenade
16
(Passeggiata Coperta) 29
Infopoint Molo Sanità 11
Infopoint Piazza Costituzione 11
Infopoint Piazza
Indipendenza 11
Italia 15
La Ghirlanda 16
La Grotta del Tesoro 18
Lamarì Internet Café 35
La Paillote 25
La Peonia 16
L'Aquila 18
La Rinascente 36
La Terrazza 15
La Terrazza Nelissen 16
Lavasecco Pony 38
Lavasecco San Giorgio 38
Lazaret (Lazzaretto) 33
Le Riad 18
Le Vigne Ducali 23
Lido Beach Club 25
Livingstone 16
Loredana Mandas 37
Lo Spinnaker 22
Maggiore (airport) 34
Maggiore (city) 34
MariaChiara 17
Marina Cagliari 17
Marina Piccola 10
Mediterraneo
MEM Mediateca del
14
Mediterraneo 39
Meridiana Fly 34
Metrocagliari 34
Metropark Cagliari 34
Minni Minni 18
Miramare
Molentargius Saline Park
(Parco Naturale Regionale
14
Molentargius Saline) 33
Monte Gruttas
Museum of Siamese Art
18
(Museo d'Arte Siamese Stefano
Cardu)
National Archaeological
30
Museum (Museo Archeologico
Nazionale)
National Gallery (Pinacoteca
30
Nazionale) 30
Old Town Hall (Antico Palazzo di
Città) 29
Opera Prima 23
Ospedale Brotzu 10
Ospedale Civile San Giovanni di
Dio 10
Ospedale Marino 10
Panorama 14
Perdaba 18
Piazza Yenne 31
Poetto beach 33
Portus Karalis 10
Praidis 18
Principi di Dan 23
Pullmantur 9
Radio Taxi 4 Mori 35
Radio Taxi Cagliari Rossoblu 35
Regina Margherita 14
Rocca Su Moru
Roman Amphitheatre
18
(Anfiteatro romano) 32
Rosso e Nero 17
Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) 29
Ryanair 34
Sa Domu Sarda 23
Saint Remy Rampart (Bastione
Saint Remy) 29
Sa Mandria 18
San Giorgio 18
San Martino 23
Santu Marcialis 18
Sa Perda Marcada 18
Sardegna 15
Sa Rocca 18
Sa Stiddiadroscia 23
Sa Tanca 18
Seabourn Cruise Line 9
Semplicemente 23
Silversea Cruises 9
Simbirizzi 18
SmartWings 34
Società Sportiva Dilettantistica
Acqua Sport 39
St Anne's Church (Chiesa di
Sant'Anna) 32
St Augustine's Church (Chiesa
di Sant'Agostino) 30
St Eulalia's Church,
archaeological site and
Treasure Museum (Chiesa di
Sant'Eulalia, area archeologica
e Museo del Tesoro) 30
St James's Church (Chiesa di
San Giacomo) 32
St Michael Castle (Castello di
San Michele) 33
St Michael's Church (Chiesa di
San Michele) 32
St Pancras Tower (Torre di
San Pancrazio) 29
St Restituta's Crypt (Cripta di
Santa Restituta) 32
St Saturn's Basilica (Basilica
di San Saturno) 33
Studio Dentistico Associato
Caruso 38
Studio Odontoiatrico Associato
Falconi 38
Su Gagliardu 23
Su Meurreddu 18
Teatro Civico di Castello 13
Teatro Lirico di Cagliari 13
T Hotel 14
Tirrenia 9
Tourist Information Centre
(Ufficio del Turismo) 11
Train Station (Stazione
ferroviaria) 9
Trenino Cagliaritano 34
Twist 25
University and Old College
(Palazzo dell'Università ed ex
Seminario) 29
Via Roma and Town Hall
(Palazzo Comunale) 31
Villa Vaghi 17
Volotea 34
Wax Anatomical Models
Museum (Museo delle Cere
Anatomiche Clemente
Susini) 30
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