3823 0641 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

English/Spanish 

Cutting 

Layouts 

® 

pattern printed 

side down 

pattern printed 

side up 

3823 


© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. 

★ 

✻ 

1 / 4 

Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern. 

We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product. 

Gracias por haber comprado este patrón de Simplicity. 

Hemos hecho todos los esfuerzos para ofrecerle un producto de alta calidad. 

D 

A 

See 

SPECIAL 

CUTTING 

NOTES 

POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING 

TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE 

A DRESS 

USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6 

1A 44" 45" (115CM) 

WITH NAP 

ALL SIZES 

CUT ONE OF PIECE 3 

1B 58" 60" (150CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 6 8 10 

E 

NOTE: DETERMINE FINISHED LENGTH BEFORE CUTTING 

1C 58" 60" (150CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 12 14 16 18 20 22 

CUT ONE OF PIECES 2 3 

B 

A 

SEL. 

2 

FOLD 

✻ 

DOUBLE THICKNESS 

SEL. 

6 

✻ 


B 

6 

4 

1 

C 

D 

6 

3 

4 

C 

1 

6 

5 

5 

6 

6 

3 

SELVAGES 

3 

SELVAGES 

SELVAGES 

5 

E 

1 

4 

2 

FOLD 

SELVAGES 

2 

SELVAGES 

10 pieces given 

1 2 

6 

B DRESS 

USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 5 6 

2C 58" 60" (150CM) 

WITH NAP 

ALL SIZES 

7 

3 

1-BODICE FRONT 

2-MIDRIFF FRONT 

3-BODICE BACK 

4-BODICE SIDE BACK 

5-NECK STRAP -A,B 

6-SKIRT FRONT AND BACK -A,B 

7-SLIP FRONT AND BACK 

8-NECK STRAP -C,D,E 

9-LOOP -C,D,E 

10-SKIRT FRONT AND BACK -C,D,E 

2A 44" 45" (115CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 

CUT ONE OF PIECES 2 3 

2B44" 

45" (115CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 20 22 


C DRESS 

USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 8 9 10 

3A 44" 45" (115CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 

CUT ONE OF PIECES 2 3 9 

4 

2 

5 

SEL. 

FOLD 

✻ 

10 


✻ ✻ 

SEL. 

6 

4 



10 

1 

8 

9 

4 

6 

4 

6 

3 

1 

1 

6 1 

3 

10 

U.S. & Canada Toll-Free 

1-888-588-2700 

The Pattern 

SYMBOLS 

GRAIN LINE Place on 

straight grain of fabric 

parallel to selvage 

PLACE SOLID LINE on 

fold of fabric. 

CENTER FRONT OR 

BACK of garment. 

NOTCHES 

DOTS 

CUTTING LINE 

LENGTHEN OR 

SHORTEN LINES 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm) 

unless otherwise stated is included but 

not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS. 

Mark your size with colored felt tip pen. 

See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI- 

SIZE PATTERNS. 

Web Site 

http://www.simplicity.com 

General Directions 

ADJUST IF NEEDED 

Make adjustments before placing 

pattern on fabric. 

TO LENGTHEN: 

Cut pattern 

between 

lengthen or 

shorten lines. 

Spread pattern 

evenly, the 

amount needed 

and tape to 

paper. 

TO SHORTEN: 

At lengthen or 

shorten lines, 

make an even 

pleat taking up 

amount needed. 

Tape in place. 

When lengthen or shorten lines are 

not given, make adjustments at 

lower edge of pattern. 

Sewing 

• SEW garment following Sewing Directions. 

• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches. 

• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated. 

• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so 

seams will lie flat. 

• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below. 

SELVAGES 

SELVAGES 

SELVAGES 

5 

6 

SELVAGES 

9 

2 

3 

5 

SELVAGES 

6 

3 

SELVAGES 

4 

Trim enclosed 

seams into layers 

5 

FOLD 

2 

2 

8 

SELVAGES 

Trim corners 

3B 44" 45" (115CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 20 22 


Clip inner 

curves 

3C58" 

60" (150CM) 

WITH NAP 

ALL SIZES 


D,E DRESS 

USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 8 9 10 

4A 44" 45" (115CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 


44" 45" (115CM) 

WITH NAP 

SIZES 20 22 


SEL. 

9 

2 

FOLD 

Notch outer 

curves 

✻ 

SEL. 

SEL. 

9 

2 

FOLD 


✻ ✻ 

SEL. 

4 


10 

✻ 

NOTE: DASH LINE SHOWN ON PATTERN PIECES 

IN CUTTING LAYOUTS INDICATES CUTTING 

LINE FOR SHORTER LENGTH. 

4B 

CUTTING LAYOUTS CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 



4 

4 

1 

1 

10 

1 

10 

10 

4 

e 

E-mail 

info@simplicity.com 

Cutting/Marking 

BEFORE CUTTING: 

PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry 

iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing 

washables or steam-pressing nonwashables. 

CIRCLE your cutting layout. 

PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting 

Layouts. 

• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold 

fabric with RIGHT sides together. 

• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place 

fabric RIGHT side up. 

• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY 

DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap” 

layouts 

★ If layout 

shows a piece 

extending past 

fold, cut out all 

pieces except 

piece that 

extends. 

Open out 

fabric to single 

thickness. Cut 

extending 

piece on 

RIGHT side of 

fabric in 

position 

shown. 

10 

10 

SELVAGES 

3 

8 

SELVAGES 

SELVAGES 

2 

SELVAGES 

10 

9 

8 

3 

SELVAGES 

2 

3 

9 

8 

SELVAGES 

1 10 

SELVAGES 

3 

8 

SELVAGES 

Español 

AFTER CUTTING: 

Transfer markings to WRONG side 

of fabric before removing pattern. 

Use pin and chalk method or 

dressmaker’s tracing paper and 

wheel. 

To Quick Mark: 

• Snip edge of fabric to mark 

notches, ends of fold lines and 

center lines. 

• Pin mark dots. 

SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES 

✻ Mark small 

arrows along both 

selvages indicating 

direction of nap or 

design. Fold fabric 

crosswise with 

RIGHT sides 

together, and cut 

along fold (a). 

Turn one fabric 

layer around so 

arrows on both 

layers go in the 

same direction. 

Place RIGHT sides 

together (b). 

a. 

CROSSWISE FOLD 

✁ 

b. 

SELVAGE 

A VESTIDO USE LAS PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 5 6 

SELVAGE 

SELVAGES 

SELVAGE 

SELVAGES 

NOTA: DETERMINE EL LARGO FINAL ANTES DE CORTAR 

1A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TODAS LAS TALLAS 

CORTE UNA PIEZA 3 

1B 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 6 8 10 

1C 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 12 14 16 18 20 22 

CORTE UNA PIEZA 2 3 

B VESTIDO USE LAS PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 5 6 

2A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 

CORTE UNA PIEZA 2 3 

2B 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 20 22 


2C 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA / TODAS LAS TALLAS 

C VESTIDO USE LAS PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 8 9 10 

3A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 

CORTE UNA PIEZA 2 3 9 





NOTA: LA LINEA ENTRECORTADA DE LAS PIEZAS 

DE PATRON EN EL DIAGRAMA DE CORTE INDICA 

LA LINEA DE CORTE PARA LOS MODELOS CORTOS. 

D,E VESTIDO USE LAS PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 8 9 10 

4A 

44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 




SELVAGE(S) SEL.= ORILLO(S) 

FOLD= DOBLEZ 

DOUBLE THICKNESS= ESPESOR DOBLE 

SINGLE THICKNESS= ESPESOR SENCILLO 

EDGE= BORDE 

MAS DIAGRAMAS DE CORTE EN LA PAGINA 2



4C 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP 

ALL SIZES 


7 

10 

3 

5 

1 

3 

10 

9 

SELVAGES 

4 

1 

9 

8 

2 

FOLD 

2 / 4 

STAY- 

STITCHING 

NOTE: DASH LINE SHOWN ON PATTERN 

PIECES IN CUTTING LAYOUTS INDICATES 

CUTTING LINE FOR SHORTER LENGTH. 

A,B,C,D,E LINING 

USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 7 

5 44" 45" (115CM) WITHOUT NAP 

ALL SIZES 

4 

6 


8 

2 

7 

4 

7 

SELVAGES 

3 

1 

2 

FOLD 

Sewing Directions 

FABRIC 

KEY 

A,C NET RUFFLES (OPT.) 

6 54" (140CM) 

7 54" (140CM) 

ALL SIZES 

ALL SIZES 

CUT FOUR 12" (30.5CM) AND FOUR 20" (51CM) STRIPS 

ACROSS THE WIDTH OF THE NET 

Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin. 

DRESS A, B, C, D, E 

NOTE: Determine finished length before sewing. Net ruffle is 

optional for Views A, B, C, E. 

1. Stay-stitch bodice front neck edges 1/2” (1.3m) from cut edge 

in direction of arrows. This stitching stays in permanently and 

helps prevent stretching on curved edges. Stay-stitching will 

not be shown in the following illustrations. 

2. To make pleats in bodice front, on INSIDE, bring broken lines 

together. Stitch along broken lines. Press pleats away from 

center. Baste across raw edge. 

3. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center front seam of bodice 

front below small dot. Back-stitch at dot to reinforce seam. 

NECK STRAP A, B 

SINGLE THICKNESS 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

4. Fold neck strap in half lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together. 

Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving end with small and large 

dots open. 

5. Turn neck strap RIGHT side out; press. On OUTSIDE, pin 

neck strap to upper edges of bodice front, matching small 

and large dots, having raw edges even. Baste. 

LOOPS AND NECK STRAP C, D, E 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

20" 

(51CM) 

20" 

(51CM) 

6. Fold loop in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together. 

Stitch a scant 1/4" (6mm) from fold edge, stretching loop 

while stitching. With a needle, attach a strong thread to one 

end of loop. 

7. Draw needle eye forward, through fold, turning loop RIGHT 

side out. Cut two loops each 2-1/4" (5.7cm) long. 

8. On OUTSIDE, center loops over small dots on one neck strap 

section, as shown. Baste across loops. 

9. Fold neck strap in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides 

together. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving end with small 

and large dots open. 

20" 

(51CM) 

EDGE 

20" 

(51CM) 

EDGE 

B,E NET RUFFLE (OPT.) 

CUT FOUR 12" (30.5CM) STRIPS ACROSS 

THE WIDTH OF THE NET 

SINGLE THICKNESS 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

Español 

RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING 10. Turn neck strap RIGHT side out; press. Baste raw edges. On 

OUTSIDE, pin neck straps to upper edges of bodice front, as 

shown, matching small and large dots, having raw edges 

even. Baste. 

13 

15 

11 

10 

12 

14 

16 

EDGE 

12" 

(30.5CM) 

EDGE 


CORTE UNA PIEZA 9 INCENTIVE 

NOTA: LA LINEA ENTRECORTADA DE LAS PIEZAS 

DE PATRON EN EL DIAGRAMA DE CORTE INDICA 

LA LINEA DE CORTE PARA LOS MODELOS CORTOS. 

A,B,C,D,E FORRO USE LAS PIEZAS 1 2 3 4 7 

5 44" 45" (115CM) SIN PELUSA/TODAS LAS TALLAS 

A,C VOLANTES DE TUL (OPCIONAL) 

6 54" (140CM) /TODAS LAS TALLAS 

CORTE CUATRO BANDAS DE 12" (30.5CM) Y CUATRO 

DE 20" (51CM) A LO ANCHO DEL TUL 

B,E VOLANTE DE TUL (OPCIONAL) 

7 54" (140CM) / TODAS LAS TALLAS 

CORTE CUATRO BANDAS DE 12" (30.5CM) 

A LO ANCHO DEL TUL 

CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS 

11. Prepare bodice front lining in same manner as bodice front, 

omitting reference to loops and neck straps. With RIGHT 

sides together, pin bodice front lining to bodice front, 

matching centers, and having raw edges even. Stitch 

armhole, shoulder and neck seams, being careful not to 

catch in free edge of neck straps. To reinforce seam at center 

front, stitch again over first stitching. Trim seam; clip curves. 

12. Turn lining to INSIDE; press. Baste raw edges together. To 

gather lower edge of bodice front between notches stitch 

along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line using a 

long machine stitch. 

13. With RIGHT sides together, pin lower edge of bodice front to 

upper edge of midriff front, matching centers. Pull up 

gathering stitches to fit. Baste. 

14. With RIGHT sides together, pin midriff to midriff lining (over 

lining side of bodice), matching centers. Stitch seam. Trim 

seam. 

15. Bring WRONG sides of midriff sections together. Press. 

Baste raw edges together. 

16. With RIGHT sides together, stitch bodice back to bodice side 

back sections. Press seams toward back.



25 

23 

27 

19 

21 

17 

3 / 4 

24 

26 

20 

22 


18 

17. Stitch bodice back lining sections in same manner as bodice 

back. To form casings for boning, stitch a scant 1/2” (1.3cm) 

from seams within seam allowance. 

18. Cut strips of boning each the length of stitched casing, 

excluding upper and lower seam allowances. Remaining 

boning will be used for RIGHT side seam. Remove boning 

from casing. Trim 1/4” (6mm) of boning from each end, 

curving ends, as shown. 

19. Insert boning through casings. Baste 5/8” (1.5cm) from upper 

and lower edges of casing, being careful not to catch in 

boning. 

20. With RIGHT sides together, pin bodice back lining to bodice 

back, matching centers and seams. Stitch upper edge. Trim 

seam. 

21. Open out bodice back lining. With RIGHT sides together, 

baste bodice front to bodice back at RIGHT side seam, 

matching small dots. 

22. NOW...bring bodice back lining over bodice front at side 

seam. Stitch side seam through all thicknesses. To form 

casing for boning, stitch a scant 1/2” (1.3cm) from seam 

within seam allowance. Cut a strip of boning same as for side 

back seam and prepare. Insert boning into casing through 

lining seam allowance. 

23. Turn lining to INSIDE. Press. Baste raw edges together. 

SKIRT A, B, C, E 

24. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center seams of skirt front 

and back sections. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt 

front to skirt back at side seams, leaving LEFT side seam 

open above notch. Back-stitch at notch to reinforce seam. 

Clip to stitching at notch. 

25. Press up hem. To EDGE FINISH the raw edge...stitch under 

1/4" (6mm), zig-zag, OR overlock/serge. Slip-stitch hem in 

place, easing in fullness. 

26. FOR VIEW A, B - To make pleats in skirt, on OUTSIDE, fold 

along solid lines. Bring folds to broken lines; pin. Baste 

across raw edge. Press. 

27. FOR VIEW C, E - To gather upper edge of skirt between 

notches nearest LEFT side, stitch along seam line and 1/4” 

(6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine stitch. 

32 

36 

28 

30 

34 

STAY-STITCHING 

29 

31 

35 

33 

28. FOR VIEW A, B, C, E - Stay-stitch upper edge of each slip 

front and back 1/2” (1.3cm) from cut edges in direction of 

arrows. This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent 

stretching on curved edges. Stay-stitching will not be shown 

in the following illustrations. 

29. To make darts in slip front and back section, with RIGHT 

sides together, fold the fabric through the center of the dart, 

bringing broken lines and small dots together. On INSIDE, 

place pins at RIGHT angles to the broken lines. Stitch the 

dart from wide end to point. 

TIP- To prevent a “bubble” at the point, make the last few 

stitches right on the fold and leave the thread ends long 

enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch at the point. 

Press the dart flat along the stitching to “blend” the stitches, 

then press darts toward center. 

30. With RIGHT sides together, stitch side seams of slip front and 

back sections, leaving LEFT side seam open above notch. 

Back-stitch at notch to reinforce seam. Clip to stitching at 

notch. 

31. Press up hem on lower edge of slip. To form narrow hem, 

tuck under raw edge to meet crease. Press. Stitch hem in 

place. 

NOTE: For View A and C, you will have two ruffles - one upper 

and one lower ruffle. For View B and E you will have one 

ruffle. 

32. Prepare ruffles as follows: 

Stitch ends of four net ruffle sections together in a 1/2” 

(1.3cm) seams, forming a circle. To gather upper edge of 

ruffle, stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from raw edge and 1/4” (6mm) 

INSIDE first stitching, using a long machine-stitch. 

33. FOR VIEW A, C - With WRONG sides together, pin ruffle to 

slip having lower row of gathering along lower stitching line, 

placing seams at centers and sides. Pull up gathering 

stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch along lower row of gathering 

stitches. 

34. Apply upper ruffle along upper stitching line in same manner. 

35. FOR VIEW B, E - With WRONG sides together pin ruffle to 

slip having lower row of gathering along stitching line, placing 

seams at centers and sides. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. 

Baste. Stitch along lower row of gathering stitches. 

36. FOR VIEW A, B, C, E - With WRONG sides together, pin slip 

to skirt at upper edge, matching centers, side seams and 

having raw edges even. For View C, E, pull up gathering 

stitches on skirt to fit, distributing fullness evenly. Baste raw 

edges together.



43 

39 

41 

37 

4 / 4 

38 

40 


44 

42 

SKIRT D 

37. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center seams of skirt front 

and back sections. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt 

front to skirt back at side seams, leaving LEFT side seam 

open above notch. Back-stitch at notch to reinforce seam. 

Clip to stitching. 

38. To gather upper edge of skirt between notches nearest LEFT 

side and entire lower edge of skirt, stitch along seam line and 

1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine stitch. 

39. Prepare slip front and back sections same as for slip A, B, C, 

E, see steps 28 through 30. 

40. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt to slip at lower edges, 

matching centers and side seams. Pull up gathering stitches 

on skirt to fit, distributing fullness evenly. Baste. Stitch. Trim 

seam. 

41. With WRONG sides together, pin upper edge of skirt and slip 

together matching centers and RIGHT side seams. Pull up 

gathering stitches on skirt to fit, distributing evenly. Baste 

upper and LEFT side opening edges, 


42. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt to bodice at waistline 

seam, matching centers and side seams. Press seam toward 

bodice. 

43. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on LEFT front opening edge and 

1/2" (1.3cm) on LEFT back opening edge. Pin LEFT back 

edge to zipper tape, placing pressed edge close to zipper 

teeth and tab end of zipper 3/8” (1cm) below upper edge of 

opening. Turn upper end of zipper tape over seam allowance. 

Baste. Pin LEFT front edge to zipper tape, lapping LEFT front 

1/8" (3mm) over LEFT back. Turn upper end of zipper tape 

over seam allowance. Baste. Stitch as basted, using an 

adjustable zipper foot. Sew a hook and eye at neck edge 

when garment is finished. 

44. FOR VIEW C, D, E - Sew buttons opposite loops on neck 

strap, as shown. 

Español 

DRESS A, B, C, D, E 

NOTE: Determine finished length before sewing. Net ruffle is optional for Views A, B, C, E. 

1. Stay-stitch bodice front neck edges 1/2” (1.3m) from cut edge in direction of arrows. This stitching 

stays in permanently and helps prevent stretching on curved edges. Stay-stitching will not be 

shown in the following illustrations. 

2. To make pleats in bodice front, on INSIDE, bring broken lines together. Stitch along broken lines. 

Press pleats away from center. Baste across raw edge. 

3. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center front seam of bodice front below small dot. Back-stitch at 

dot to reinforce seam. 

NECK STRAP A, B 

4. Fold neck strap in half lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving 

end with small and large dots open. 

5. Turn neck strap RIGHT side out; press. On OUTSIDE, pin neck strap to upper edges of bodice 

front, matching small and large dots, having raw edges even. Baste. 

LOOPS AND NECK STRAP C, D, E 

6. Fold loop in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together. Stitch a scant 1/4" (6mm) from fold edge, 

stretching loop while stitching. With a needle, attach a strong thread to one end of loop. 

7. Draw needle eye forward, through fold, turning loop RIGHT side out. Cut two loops each 2-1/4" 

(5.7cm) long. 

8. On OUTSIDE, center loops over small dots on one neck strap section, as shown. Baste across 

loops. 

9. Fold neck strap in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam, leaving 

end with small and large dots open. 

10. Turn neck strap RIGHT side out; press. Baste raw edges. On OUTSIDE, pin neck straps to upper 

edges of bodice front, as shown, matching small and large dots, having raw edges even. Baste. 


11. Prepare bodice front lining in same manner as bodice front, omitting reference to loops and neck 

straps. With RIGHT sides together, pin bodice front lining to bodice front, matching centers, and 

having raw edges even. Stitch armhole, shoulder and neck seams, being careful not to catch in 

free edge of neck straps. To reinforce seam at center front, stitch again over first stitching. Trim 

seam; clip curves. 

12. Turn lining to INSIDE; press. Baste raw edges together. To gather lower edge of bodice front 

between notches stitch along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line using a long machine 

stitch. 

13. With RIGHT sides together, pin lower edge of bodice front to upper edge of midriff front, matching 

centers. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste. 

14. With RIGHT sides together, pin midriff to midriff lining (over lining side of bodice), matching 

centers. Stitch seam. Trim seam. 

15. Bring WRONG sides of midriff sections together. Press. Baste raw edges together. 

16. With RIGHT sides together, stitch bodice back to bodice side back sections. Press seams toward 

back. 

17. Stitch bodice back lining sections in same manner as bodice back. To form casings for boning, 

stitch a scant 1/2” (1.3cm) from seams within seam allowance. 

18. Cut strips of boning each the length of stitched casing, excluding upper and lower seam 

allowances. Remaining boning will be used for RIGHT side seam. Remove boning from casing. 

Trim 1/4” (6mm) of boning from each end, curving ends, as shown. 

19. Insert boning through casings. Baste 5/8” (1.5cm) from upper and lower edges of casing, being 

careful not to catch in boning. 

20. With RIGHT sides together, pin bodice back lining to bodice back, matching centers and seams. 

Stitch upper edge. Trim seam. 

21. Open out bodice back lining. With RIGHT sides together, baste bodice front to bodice back at 

RIGHT side seam, matching small dots. 

22. NOW...bring bodice back lining over bodice front at side seam. Stitch side seam through all 

thicknesses. To form casing for boning, stitch a scant 1/2” (1.3cm) from seam within seam 

allowance. Cut a strip of boning same as for side back seam and prepare. Insert boning into casing 

through lining seam allowance. 

23. Turn lining to INSIDE. Press. Baste raw edges together. 

SKIRT A, B, C, E 

24. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center seams of skirt front and back sections. With RIGHT sides 

together, stitch skirt front to skirt back at side seams, leaving LEFT side seam open above notch. 

Back-stitch at notch to reinforce seam. Clip to stitching at notch. 

25. Press up hem. To EDGE FINISH the raw edge...stitch under 1/4" (6mm), zig-zag, OR overlock/ 

serge. Slip-stitch hem in place, easing in fullness. 

26. FOR VIEW A, B - To make pleats in skirt, on OUTSIDE, fold along solid lines. Bring folds to broken 

lines; pin. Baste across raw edge. Press. 

27. FOR VIEW C, E - To gather upper edge of skirt between notches nearest LEFT side, stitch along 

seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine stitch. 

28. FOR VIEW A, B, C, E - Stay-stitch upper edge of each slip front and back 1/2” (1.3cm) from cut 

edges in direction of arrows. This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent stretching on 

curved edges. Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations. 

29. To make darts in slip front and back section, with RIGHT sides together, fold the fabric through the 

center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together. On INSIDE, place pins at RIGHT 

angles to the broken lines. Stitch the dart from wide end to point. 

TIP- To prevent a “bubble” at the point, make the last few stitches right on the fold and leave the 

thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch at the point. 

Press the dart flat along the stitching to “blend” the stitches, then press darts toward center. 

30. With RIGHT sides together, stitch side seams of slip front and back sections, leaving LEFT side 

seam open above notch. Back-stitch at notch to reinforce seam. Clip to stitching at notch. 

31. Press up hem on lower edge of slip. To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease. 

Press. Stitch hem in place. 

NOTE: For View A and C, you will have two ruffles - one upper and one lower ruffle. For View B and E you 

will have one ruffle. 

32. Prepare ruffles as follows: 

Stitch ends of four net ruffle sections together in a 1/2” (1.3cm) seams, forming a circle. To gather 

upper edge of ruffle, stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from raw edge and 

1/4” (6mm) INSIDE first stitching, using a long machine-stitch. 

33. FOR VIEW A, C - With WRONG sides together, pin ruffle to slip having lower row of gathering 

along lower stitching line, placing seams at centers and sides. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. 

Baste. Stitch along lower row of gathering stitches. 

34. Apply upper ruffle along upper stitching line in same manner. 

35. FOR VIEW B, E - With WRONG sides together pin ruffle to slip having lower row of gathering 

along stitching line, placing seams at centers and sides. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste. 

Stitch along lower row of gathering stitches. 

36. FOR VIEW A, B, C, E - With WRONG sides together, pin slip to skirt at upper edge, matching 

centers, side seams and having raw edges even. For View C, E, pull up gathering stitches on skirt 

to fit, distributing fullness evenly. Baste raw edges together. 

SKIRT D 

37. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center seams of skirt front and back sections. With RIGHT sides 

together, stitch skirt front to skirt back at side seams, leaving LEFT side seam open above notch. 

Back-stitch at notch to reinforce seam. Clip to stitching. 

38. To gather upper edge of skirt between notches nearest LEFT side and entire lower edge of skirt, 

stitch along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine stitch. 

39. Prepare slip front and back sections same as for slip A, B, C, E, see steps 28 through 30. 

40. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt to slip at lower edges, matching centers and side seams. Pull 

up gathering stitches on skirt to fit, distributing fullness evenly. Baste. Stitch. Trim seam. 

41. With WRONG sides together, pin upper edge of skirt and slip together matching centers and 

RIGHT side seams. Pull up gathering stitches on skirt to fit, distributing evenly. Baste upper and 

LEFT side opening edges, 


42. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt to bodice at waistline seam, matching centers and side 

seams. Press seam toward bodice. 

43. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on LEFT front opening edge and 1/2" (1.3cm) on LEFT back opening 

edge. Pin LEFT back edge to zipper tape, placing pressed edge close to zipper teeth and tab end 

of zipper 3/8” (1cm) below upper edge of opening. Turn upper end of zipper tape over seam 

allowance. Baste. Pin LEFT front edge to zipper tape, lapping LEFT front 1/8" (3mm) over LEFT 

back. Turn upper end of zipper tape over seam allowance. Baste. Stitch as basted, using an 

adjustable zipper foot. Sew a hook and eye at neck edge when garment is finished. 

44. FOR VIEW C, D, E - Sew buttons opposite loops on neck strap, as shown.

3823 0641 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

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