2517 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

English
Cutting
Layouts
®
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
2517
Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.
A
© Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
★
✻
1 / 4
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
A COAT AND HAT
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
3 3
14
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 38 40 42
A
9
13
A
NOTE: LINING: AFTER COAT HAS BEEN CUT, TURN UP 1" (2.5CM)
ON LOWER EDGE OF PATTERN PIECES 7 10
16
LINING
USE PIECES 5 7 10 11 12 13 14 17
2
14
13
B
6
A
17
10
11
15 15
7
12
7
★
1
19 pieces given
SELVAGES
12
FOLD
1
2
3
4
5
FOLD
SELVAGES
11
5
8
13
10
4
8
9
6
14
7
1-HAT FRONT AND BACK -A
2-HAT SIDE -A
3-FLAP -A
4-PEAK -A
5-HAT LINING -A
6-FRONT
7-SIDE PANEL
8-WELT
9-POCKET
10-BACK
9
15
10
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 44 46 48 50 52
5
14
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4 8 15 16
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
14
16
11
13
17
19
11-UPPER SLEEVE
12-UNDER SLEEVE
13-CAPELET FRONT
14-CAPELET BACK
15-COLLAR -A
16-FRONT FACING
17-FRONT LINING
18-BUTTONHOLE GUIDE
19-COLLAR -B
16
18
12
13
B COAT
USE PIECES 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 16 19
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free
1-888-588-2700
The Pattern
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
NOTCHES
DOTS
CUTTING LINE
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-
SIZE PATTERNS.
Web Site
http://www.simplicity.com
General Directions
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
Sewing
• SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
6
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
17
CROSSWISE
FOLD
10
10
1
12
11
15
8
7
Trim corners
SELVAGES
11
7
FOLD
SELVAGES
3
16
4
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
19
9
12
8
9
FOLD
2
Clip inner
curves
Notch outer
curves
LINING
USE PIECES 7 10 11 12 13 14 17
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 38 40 42
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 44 46 48 50 52
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 8 16 19
e
E-mail
info@simplicity.com
Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
★ If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
14
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
13
14
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
To Quick Mark:
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• Pin mark dots.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
✻ Mark small
arrows along both
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
13
17
17
SINGLE
THICKNESS
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
12
8
16
7
12
a.
CROSSWISE FOLD
✁
b.
SELVAGE
11
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
11
10
10 7
19
19
FOLD
SELVAGES
FOLD
SELVAGE
8
16
SELVAGE

English
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2517 Sewing Directions
1
STAY-STITCHING
3 4
INTERFACING
6 7 8
10
9
FABRIC
KEY
© Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
11
2
5
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
Sewing procedures ITALICIZED in Sewing Directions are defined
below:
FINISH SEAM- If you prefer, zig-zag, serge OR overlock/
serge over the raw edge OR machine-stitch 1/4" (6mm) from
raw edge and then pink edges. Illustrations will not show
finishing seams for clarification purposes.
INTERFACING- Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of
fabric. Cut interfacing diagonally across corners that will be
enclosed with seams. Fuse interfacing in place, following
manufacturer’s directions.
COAT A, B
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
1. Stay-stitch front and back neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut
edge in direction of arrows.
This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent
stretching on curved edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations.
2. Apply INTERFACING to welt. Fold welt in half, lengthwise,
with RIGHT sides together, matching large dots. Stitch ends.
Trim seams.
3. Turn welt RIGHT side out; press. Machine-baste 5/8" (1.5cm)
from raw edge.
4. FOR VIEW B- On OUTSIDE, pin middy braid to welt 1/2”
(1.3cm) from finished edges, folding out fullness at corners.
Stitch close to both edges of braid.
5. FOR VIEWS A, B- On OUTSIDE, pin welt to front, matching
large dots, having raw edges even. Baste.
NOTE: Apply pockets to front and side panel as follows:
6. With RIGHT sides together, pin pocket to garment, matching
large dots, having raw edges even. Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam.
7. Press seam toward pocket, pressing pocket out.
8. Pin front to side panel at side front seam, matching large
dots.
In one continuous stitching, stitch side seams and pockets,
squaring stitching at large dots.
9. Clip garment side panel seam allowance at ends of pocket,
as shown. Press seam open above and below clips. Press
pocket toward front. FINISH SEAM.
10. On OUTSIDE, press welt toward side panel. Top-stitch or
slip-stitch ends in place.
11. To reinforce inner corner of back vent, stitch 1” (2.5cm) each
side of large dot, stitching through large dot, as shown.
12
14 15 16
13
17 18 19
22
20
UNDER
SLEEVE
UNDER
SLEEVE
21
23
12. Stitch center back seam of back sections together above
large dot; back-stitch to reinforce seam.
Clip seam allowance diagonally to large dot, being careful not
to clip through stitching.
Press seam open above clip.
FINISH SEAM.
13. Stitch front to back at shoulder seams, easing back to fit
between notches.
Stitch side back seams. FINISH SEAM.
14. With RIGHT sides together, pin upper sleeve to under sleeve
at back edge, matching large dots. Stitch seam, leaving an
opening between large dots; back-stitch at large dots to
reinforce seam. Stitch extensions together in a 1/4” (6mm)
seam.
15. Clip under sleeve seam allowance at ends of extension.
Press seam open above and below clips. Press extension
toward upper sleeve along fold line.
16. With RIGHT sides together, stitch upper sleeve to under
sleeve at front edge.
To ease top of sleeve between notches, stitch along seam
line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machinestitch.
Press up hem. Catch-stitch hem in place.
17. FOR VIEW A- If you prefer, on OUTSIDE, top-stitch 1/2”
(1.3cm) from lower edge of sleeve.
18. FOR VIEW B- On OUTSIDE, pin middy braid to sleeve 1/2”
(1.3cm) from lower edge, turning under and lapping one end
at front seam. Stitch close to both edges of braid.
19. FOR VIEWS A, B- Sew buttons to sleeve at small dots.
20. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out. Hold garment WRONG side out
with armhole toward you. With RIGHT sides together, pin
sleeve to armhole edge with center small dot at shoulder
seam, placing underarm seam at double small dots, matching
remaining small dots. Pull up ease stitches to fit.
To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin threads
until there are no puckers or tucks on the seam line. Baste.
Stitch. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from first stitching. Trim seam
below notches close to stitching. Press only the seam
allowance, shrinking out fullness.
21. Try on garment. Insert shoulder pad and adjust to fit until it
looks right and feels comfortable. Pin in place.
Remove garment. On INSIDE, catch-stitch pad to shoulder
seam.
22. Stitch capelet front to capelet back at shoulder seams.
Clip curves, if necessary.
23. Stitch shoulder seams of capelet lining. Clip curves, if
necessary. With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to capelet,
matching centers back and shoulder seams. Stitch front and
lower edges. Trim seam and corners; clip curves.

English
2517
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24
30
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© Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
25
26 27
34
33
32
29
24. Turn capelet RIGHT side out; press.
Turn front edges to INSIDE along fold line, forming facings;
press. Machine-baste neck edges together. Slip-stitch facing
to lining only.
25. FOR VIEW A- On OUTSIDE, top-stitch capelet 1” (2.5cm)
from front edge and 1/2” (1.3cm) from lower edge, squaring
stitching at corners.
26. FOR VIEW B- On OUTSIDE, make buttonholes in capelet at
markings. Pin middy braid to capelet 1/2” (1.3cm) from front
and lower edges, folding out fullness at corners. Stitch close
to both edges of braid.
27. FOR VIEWS A, B- Pin capelet (lining side) to neck edge of
coat, matching centers back and placing small dot at
shoulder seam. Baste. Shoulder seams in capelet are toward
the back.
COLLAR A
28. Apply INTERFACING to both collar sections.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch collar sections together,
leaving notched edges open.
Trim seam and corners; clip curves.
29. Turn collar; press. Machine-baste raw edges together.
Top-stitch collar 1/2” (1.3cm) from finished edges, squaring
stitching at corners.
30. Clip neck edge of garment to stay-stitching.
On OUTSIDE, pin collar to neck edge, matching centers back
and large dots, placing small dot at shoulder seam. Baste.
COLLAR B
31. Apply INTERFACING to both collar sections.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch collar sections together,
leaving notched edges open.
Trim seam and corners.
32. Turn collar; press. Machine-baste raw edges together.
Pin middy braid to collar 1/2 (1.3cm) from finished edges,
folding out fullness at corners. Stitch close to both edges of
braid.
33. Clip neck edge of garment to stay-stitching.
On OUTSIDE, pin collar to neck edge, matching centers back
and large dots, placing small dot at shoulder seam. Baste.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR BOTH VIEWS
34. Apply INTERFACING to front facing. Stay-stitch neck edge of
facing same as for garment.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch front lining to front facing at
side front seam to within 4” (10cm) of lower edge of facing.
Press seam toward front lining.
Stitch side panel lining to front lining. FINISH SEAMS.
Stitch remaining side seams of lining, except for sleeves,
same as for coat. Press under 1” (2.5cm) on lower edge of
lining. To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet
crease. Press. Stitch hem in place.
Pin remaining edges of front lining and front facing together.
Stitch. Clip front facing seam allowance to stitching 1/2”
(1.3cm) above lower edge of lining. Press seam allowance
above clip toward lining, pressing front facing seam
allowance below clip toward facing, as shown.
43
37
39
35
41
38
40
36
42
44
LEFT BACK
35. Pin upper sleeve lining to under sleeve lining, matching
notches. Stitch front seam. Stitch back seam along seam line
and fold line. Trim away extensions even with seam
allowance. To ease top of sleeve lining between notches,
stitch along seam line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE seam line,
using a long machine-stitch.
Stitch sleeve lining to armhole of coat lining same as for
coat.
36. Clip neck edge of front facing and lining to stay-stitching
along curves. With RIGHT sides together, pin front facing and
lining to coat, (over capelet) matching centers back and
shoulder seams. Stitch across front facing exactly 1-1/2”
(3.8cm) above lower edge and then along seam line on front
and neck edges. Trim lower edge of front facing close to
stitching. Trim garment to within 5/8” (1.5cm) of inner facing
edge, as shown. Trim seam and corners; clip curves.
37. Turn facing and lining to INSIDE, turning up hem allowance
on lower edge of coat; press. To EDGE FINISH the raw
edge...stitch under 1/4" (6mm), zig-zag, OR overlock/serge
.
38. Slip sleeve lining in place.
From the OUTSIDE, pin lining and sleeves together
approximately 5" (12.5cm) above hem, matching seams, as
shown. Trim lining so that it is 1/2" (1.3cm) longer than lower
edge of sleeve.
39. Press under 1/2" (1.3cm) on lower edge of sleeve lining.
40. Slip-stitch pressed edge of lining 1" (2.5cm) above lower
edge of sleeve. Remove pins.
Allow lining to drop.
41. Open out coat hem at back vent.
Working on one half of coat at a time, with RIGHT sides
together, pin back vent edges of coat and lining together,
matching small dots. Turn up coat hem to OUTSIDE over
WRONG side of lining at back vent, as shown. Stitch back
vent from lower edge to large dot; back-stitch at large dot to
reinforce seam. Trim seam and corner.
Stitch remaining half of back vent in same manner.
42. Turn back vents RIGHT side out; press, pressing coat hem
back in place.
43. Slip-stitch coat hem in place.
44. Turn LEFT back vent to INSIDE along fold line; press. Slipstitch
LEFT back vent to lining only and to hem.

English
2517
1
FRONT
4 / 4
45 46
47
48
FRONT AND BACK
2 3
SIDE
49
SIDE FLAP
BACK
4 5
© Copyright 2009—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
PEAK
45. On INSIDE, pin RIGHT back vent over LEFT back. Slip-stitch
upper edge of RIGHT back vent to lining.
46. If you prefer, hand-baste close to upper edge of RIGHT back
vent through all thicknesses. Then on OUTSIDE, top-stitch
LEFT back as basted. Remove basting.
47. Hand-sew front facing to hem with small stitches.
French tack lining to hem at seams.
48. To mark buttonholes in LEFT front place guide along finished
edge of garment, matching centers, as shown.
Transfer buttonhole markings to garment.
Make buttonholes at markings.
Lap LEFT front over RIGHT, matching centers.
Sew buttons under buttonholes.
49. FOR VIEW B- Sew button to each front at small dot.
HAT A
NOTE: Hat is stitched in 3/8” (1cm) seams.
1. Apply INTERFACING to hat front and back, hat side, peak
and flap sections.
2. Stitch a front section and a back section to each side of one
side section, matching single notches, forming two halves of
the crown.
TIP—To avoid bulk at point, press each seam open before
stitching the next seam.
3. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch hat 1/4” (6mm) from each side of
seam.
4. With RIGHT sides together, pin hat sections together,
matching double notches. Stitch entire center seam.
5. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch hat 1/4” (6mm) from each side of
center seam.
7
9 10
11 12
13
15
17
6
8
14
16
18
6. Cut a piece of double fold bias tape 22” (56cm) long.
Stitch close to pressed edges of tape.
7. Cut tape in half for ties. On OUTSIDE, pin one end of tie to
flap over small dot, having raw edges even. Baste.
8. With RIGHT sides together, stitch flap facing to flap, leaving
straight edges open. Trim seam and corner.
9. Turn flaps RIGHT side out; press. Machine-baste raw edges
together. Top-stitch 3/8” (1cm) from finished edge, squaring
stitching at point.
10. On OUTSIDE, pin flaps to side sections, placing finished
edges at seams. Baste.
11. With RIGHT sides together, stitch two peak sections together,
leaving notched edges open. Trim seam; clip curves.
12. Turn peak RIGHT out; press. Machine-baste raw edges
together. Clip curves to machine-basting. Top-stitch 3/8”
(1cm) from finished edge.
13. On OUTSIDE, pin peaks to hat front and back (over flaps)
matching centers and small dots, having raw edges even.
Baste.
14. To make dart seams in hat lining, on INSIDE, bring broken
lines together, matching small dots. Stitch along broken line
from raw edge to point. Press dart seams open.
15. With RIGHT sides together, pin hat lining sections together.
Stitch center seam, leaving an opening for turning.
With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to hat (over flaps and
peaks), matching centers. Stitch. Trim seam.
16. Turn hat RIGHT side out through opening in lining. Press,
pressing flaps and peaks down. Slip-stitch opening edges of
lining together.
17. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch hat 3/8” (1cm) from lower edge.
To make a covered button, use garment fabric remnant and
follow manufacturer’s directions for covering.
On OUTSIDE, sew button to top of hat at small dot.
18. Wrap ties around button, pulling up flaps. Fasten ties into a
bow. Knot ends of ties.