2391 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew
2391 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew
2391 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew
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English<br />
<strong>Cutting</strong><br />
<strong>Layouts</strong><br />
®<br />
pattern printed<br />
side down<br />
pattern printed<br />
side up<br />
<strong>2391</strong><br />
Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.<br />
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.<br />
A<br />
B<br />
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />
★<br />
✻<br />
1 / 4<br />
See<br />
SPECIAL<br />
CUTTING<br />
NOTES<br />
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING<br />
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE<br />
A,B,C,D- DETERMINE FINISHED LENGTH BEFORE CUTTING<br />
A DRESS<br />
USE VINTAGE PILLOWCASE<br />
(APPROX. 30" X 22" (76CM X 56CM)<br />
SEE SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING DRESS<br />
B DRESS<br />
USE PIECE 2<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
SIZES 3 4 5 6 7<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
SIZE 8<br />
2<br />
B<br />
SELVAGE<br />
2<br />
C<br />
A<br />
E<br />
FOLD<br />
G<br />
C<br />
E<br />
SEL.<br />
F<br />
D<br />
F<br />
H<br />
G<br />
H<br />
D<br />
58" 60" (150CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
2<br />
2<br />
12 pieces given<br />
2<br />
2<br />
1<br />
FOLD<br />
FOLD<br />
FOLD<br />
FOLD<br />
SELS.<br />
SEL.<br />
8<br />
SEL.<br />
2<br />
11<br />
9<br />
3<br />
4<br />
1-FRONT AND BACK -A,C<br />
2-FRONT AND BACK -B,D<br />
3-FRONT AND BACK BAND -B,D<br />
4-GUIDE FOR EMBROIDERY -D<br />
5-PANTS FRONT -E,F<br />
6-PANTS BACK -E,F<br />
7-LEG BAND -E<br />
8-LEG BAND -F<br />
9-BAG FRONT AND BACK -G<br />
10-BAG FRONT OVERLAY -G<br />
11-BAG FRONT AND BACK -H<br />
12-BAG STRAP -H<br />
C TOP<br />
D TOP<br />
USE PIECE 2<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
SIZES 3 4 5 6 7<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
SIZE 8<br />
USE PIECE 3<br />
SELVAGE<br />
2<br />
2<br />
FOLD<br />
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
5<br />
12<br />
USE VINTAGE PILLOWCASE<br />
(APPROX. 30" X 22" (76CM X 56CM)<br />
SEE SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING TOP<br />
PIECE 4 IS A GUIDE FOR EMBROIDERY<br />
7<br />
10<br />
B,D CONTRAST BAND<br />
6<br />
SEL.<br />
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free<br />
1-888-588-2700<br />
The Pattern<br />
SYMBOLS<br />
GRAIN LINE Place on<br />
straight grain of fabric<br />
parallel to selvage<br />
PLACE SOLID LINE on<br />
fold of fabric.<br />
CENTER FRONT OR<br />
BACK of garment.<br />
NOTCHES<br />
DOTS<br />
CUTTING LINE<br />
LENGTHEN OR<br />
SHORTEN LINES<br />
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)<br />
unless otherwise stated is included but<br />
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.<br />
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.<br />
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-<br />
SIZE PATTERNS.<br />
Web Site<br />
http://www.simplicity.com<br />
<strong>General</strong> <strong>Directions</strong><br />
ADJUST IF NEEDED<br />
Make adjustments before placing<br />
pattern on fabric.<br />
TO LENGTHEN:<br />
Cut pattern<br />
between<br />
lengthen or<br />
shorten lines.<br />
Spread pattern<br />
evenly, the<br />
amount needed<br />
and tape to<br />
paper.<br />
TO SHORTEN:<br />
At lengthen or<br />
shorten lines,<br />
make an even<br />
pleat taking up<br />
amount needed.<br />
Tape in place.<br />
When lengthen or shorten lines are<br />
not given, make adjustments at<br />
lower edge of pattern.<br />
Sewing<br />
• SEW garment following Sewing <strong>Directions</strong>.<br />
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.<br />
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.<br />
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so<br />
seams will lie flat.<br />
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.<br />
Trim enclosed<br />
seams into layers<br />
58" 60" (150CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
Trim corners<br />
3<br />
FOLD<br />
2<br />
2<br />
FOLD<br />
FOLD<br />
2<br />
2<br />
FOLD<br />
SELVAGE<br />
3<br />
FOLD<br />
SELS.<br />
SEL.<br />
SEL.<br />
SEL.<br />
Clip inner<br />
curves<br />
Notch outer<br />
curves<br />
E PANTS<br />
USE PIECES 5 6 7<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
58" 60" (150CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
F PANTS<br />
USE PIECES 5 6<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
58" 60" (150CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
e<br />
E-mail<br />
info@simplicity.com<br />
<strong>Cutting</strong>/Marking<br />
BEFORE CUTTING:<br />
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry<br />
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing<br />
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.<br />
CIRCLE your cutting layout.<br />
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in <strong>Cutting</strong><br />
<strong>Layouts</strong>.<br />
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold<br />
fabric with RIGHT sides together.<br />
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place<br />
fabric RIGHT side up.<br />
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY<br />
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”<br />
layouts<br />
★ If layout<br />
shows a piece<br />
extending past<br />
fold, cut out all<br />
pieces except<br />
piece that<br />
extends.<br />
Open out<br />
fabric to single<br />
thickness. Cut<br />
extending<br />
piece on<br />
RIGHT side of<br />
fabric in<br />
position<br />
shown.<br />
CUTTING LAYOUTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 2<br />
AFTER CUTTING:<br />
Transfer markings to WRONG side<br />
of fabric before removing pattern.<br />
Use pin and chalk method or<br />
dressmaker’s tracing paper and<br />
wheel.<br />
To Quick Mark:<br />
• Snip edge of fabric to mark<br />
notches, ends of fold lines and<br />
center lines.<br />
• Pin mark dots.<br />
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES<br />
✻ Mark small<br />
arrows along both<br />
selvages indicating<br />
direction of nap or<br />
design. Fold fabric<br />
crosswise with<br />
RIGHT sides<br />
together, and cut<br />
along fold (a).<br />
Turn one fabric<br />
layer around so<br />
arrows on both<br />
layers go in the<br />
same direction.<br />
Place RIGHT sides<br />
together (b).<br />
7<br />
7<br />
a.<br />
CROSSWISE FOLD<br />
✁<br />
b.<br />
6<br />
SELVAGE<br />
SELVAGES<br />
5<br />
6<br />
SELVAGE<br />
SELVAGES<br />
SELVAGE<br />
SELVAGES<br />
5<br />
FOLD<br />
SELVAGES<br />
SELVAGES<br />
5<br />
FOLD<br />
SELVAGE<br />
5<br />
6<br />
6<br />
FOLD<br />
FOLD<br />
SEL.
English<br />
<strong>2391</strong><br />
CONTRAST BAND<br />
USE PIECE 8<br />
2 / 4<br />
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)<br />
WITH NAP<br />
ALL SIZES<br />
1<br />
3<br />
4<br />
2<br />
DRESS A, B<br />
BACK FRONT<br />
TOP C, D<br />
SELS.<br />
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />
8<br />
FOLD<br />
Sewing <strong>Directions</strong><br />
FABRIC<br />
KEY<br />
Read <strong>General</strong> <strong>Directions</strong> on page 1 before you begin.<br />
DRESS A, B AND TOP C, D<br />
CUTTING DIRECTIONS FOR DRESS A AND TOP C<br />
NOTE: Decorative hem or border of pillowcase will be the finished<br />
lower edge of garment.<br />
1. Turn pillowcase INSIDE out. Cut pillowcase apart along<br />
folded end, as shown.<br />
2. Fold pillowcase in half lengthwise, with RIGHT sides<br />
together, bringing seam to center or matching seams.<br />
3. Pin front and back pattern tissue to pillowcase front, over<br />
embroidery or design, placing lower edge along lower edge<br />
of pillowcase to cut out dress front or top front.<br />
Pin tissue printed side down on pillowcase back, placing<br />
lower edge along lower edge of pillowcase to cut out dress<br />
back or top back.<br />
Cut out dress or top along side, armhole and upper edges.<br />
EMBROIDERY D<br />
G,H BAG<br />
USE VINTAGE PILLOWCASE<br />
(APPROX. 30" X 22" (76CM X 56CM)<br />
SEE SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING BAGS<br />
G POLYESTER FLEECE<br />
USE PIECE 9<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING<br />
4. Cut guide for embroidery tissue pattern along solid lines. On<br />
OUTSIDE, center embroidery guide on top front<br />
approximately 2" (5cm) above lower edge or as you prefer.<br />
Transfer markings to RIGHT side of front, using a washable<br />
fabric pen or pencil.<br />
8<br />
10<br />
6<br />
5<br />
EDGE<br />
9<br />
FOLD<br />
CHAIN STITCH<br />
LAZY-DAISY STITCH<br />
EDGE<br />
11<br />
7<br />
9<br />
SATIN STITCH<br />
H POLYESTER FLEECE<br />
USE PIECE 11<br />
44" 45" (115CM)<br />
A<br />
FRENCH KNOT<br />
5. Using three strands of embroidery thread, work chain stitch<br />
along stems.<br />
For chain stitch- bring the needle to the right side of the<br />
fabric on the transferred design line. Make a small loop with<br />
the thread and hold it in place with your left thumb. Insert the<br />
needle back where the thread first came up. Bring the needle<br />
out a little to the left, over the thread loop.<br />
Using three to six strands of embroidery thread, work satin<br />
stitch for large leaves and flower petals.<br />
For satin stitch- the embroidery stitches should be close<br />
enough to cover the area WITHOUT OVERLAPPING THE<br />
THREAD. Bring the thread to the RIGHT side of A, down at B,<br />
up at C, etc.<br />
Using six strand embroidery thread work lazy-daisy stitch for<br />
small leaves and flowers.<br />
For lazy-daisy stitch- bring the thread up and hold it in a<br />
loop with the left thumb. Insert needle back where the thread<br />
emerged. Then bring the needle out the length the stitch<br />
desired and pull it through the loop. Make a small straight<br />
stitch to anchor the loop at its crown.<br />
Using three strands of embroidery thread, work French knots<br />
at center of flowers.<br />
For French knot- work with as many threads as desired and<br />
use a large eyed needle. Bring thread to RIGHT side at A;<br />
hold thread with thumb and forefinger in left hand; wind<br />
thread around the needle two or three times. Still holding<br />
thread firmly, slide on needle so that point of needle may be<br />
inserted very close to A, but not in the same hole. Pull needle<br />
to WRONG side, drawing up thread to form French Knot.<br />
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS<br />
NOTE: Illustrations show View B, unless indicated otherwise.<br />
6. Stitch front to back at side seams.<br />
7. Open out both long edges of single fold bias tape and press it<br />
flat. Fold tape in half, lengthwise, having raw edges even.<br />
Press.<br />
8. On OUTSIDE, pin tape to armhole edge of garment, having<br />
raw edges even. Stitch armhole in a 3/8” (1cm) seam. Trim<br />
seam; clip curves.<br />
9. Turn tape to INSIDE; press. Baste close to inner edge.<br />
On OUTSIDE, top-stitch as basted.<br />
10. Open out one edge of bias fold tape.<br />
EDGE<br />
EDGE<br />
11. To make casing in front and back, with RIGHT sides together,<br />
pin tape to upper edge, having raw edges even, turning under<br />
ends at armhole edges.<br />
Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam.<br />
Trim seam.<br />
SINGLE THICKNESS<br />
11
English<br />
<strong>2391</strong><br />
14<br />
2<br />
1<br />
13<br />
16<br />
CENTER<br />
BACK<br />
4<br />
12<br />
INNER<br />
LEG<br />
SEAM<br />
CENTER<br />
FRONT<br />
3 / 4<br />
15<br />
3<br />
SIDE SEAM<br />
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />
12. Turn casing to INSIDE; press.<br />
Stitch close to inner edge.<br />
13. Cut ribbon in half for ties. Insert ribbon through front and back<br />
casings, having ends extend evenly. Tie ribbon into bows at<br />
shoulders when garment is worn. If necessary, trim ends of<br />
ties to a desired length.<br />
FRONT AND BACK BAND B, D<br />
14. Stitch front band to back band at side seams.<br />
Fold band in half, lengthwise with WRONG sides together,<br />
having raw edges even. Press. Baste raw edges together.<br />
15. On OUTSIDE, pin band to lower edge of garment, matching<br />
centers and side seams. Stitch seam. Stitch again 1/4"<br />
(6mm) from first stitching within seam allowance. Trim seam.<br />
Press seam toward garment, pressing band down.<br />
16. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch front and back close to seam.<br />
PANTS E, F<br />
1. Stitch front to back at inner leg seams.<br />
2. With RIGHT sides together, pin center seam, matching inner<br />
leg seams and notches. Stitch seam. To reinforce seam,<br />
stitch again over first stitching.<br />
3. Stitch front to back at side seams.<br />
4. To keep elastic from getting stuck in the seam allowances as<br />
it’s inserted, use fusible web or machine-basting to anchor<br />
them to garment within the casing area. Be sure to remove<br />
basting after casing is finished.<br />
5<br />
5<br />
5. Press 1" (2.5cm) on upper edge to INSIDE, forming casing.<br />
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.<br />
Stitch close to lower edge of casing, leaving an opening to<br />
insert elastic.<br />
6<br />
10<br />
1<br />
3<br />
6<br />
9<br />
8<br />
12<br />
2<br />
7<br />
11<br />
13<br />
4<br />
6. Cut a piece of elastic to fit waist, plus 1" (2.5cm).<br />
Insert elastic through casing.<br />
Overlap ends and hold with a safety pin.<br />
Try on garment and adjust to fit.<br />
7. Stitch ends of elastic together securely.<br />
Stitch opening closed.<br />
Distribute fullness evenly.<br />
Remove basting.<br />
TIP-To secure elastic so it won’t twist in wearing, stitch<br />
through all thicknesses of casing in the groove of each seam.<br />
8. FOR VIEW E- To make tucks in leg band, on OUTSIDE, fold<br />
along solid lines.<br />
Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from fold.<br />
Press tucks toward fold line.<br />
Baste across side edges.<br />
9. FOR VIEW E, F- Fold leg band along fold line, with RIGHT<br />
sides together, having raw edges even. Stitch ends of band.<br />
Trim seam.<br />
10. Turn band RIGHT side out; press. Baste raw edges together.<br />
11. FOR VIEW E- On OUTSIDE, pin rick rack to band, placing<br />
center of rick rack 5/8" (1.5cm) from upper edge, turning<br />
under ends at side edges. Baste along center of rick rack.<br />
12. FOR VIEW E, F- On OUTSIDE, pin band to lower edge of<br />
pants, matching small dots. Stitch seam. Press band down,<br />
pressing seam up.<br />
13. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch pants close to seam.<br />
BAG G<br />
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS<br />
1. Cut pillowcase apart along side edges and folded end.<br />
2. Pin bag front overlay pattern tissue to RIGHT side of<br />
pillowcase front, over embroidery or design, placing lower<br />
edge along lower edge of pillowcase.<br />
3. Cut out overlay along side and upper edges.<br />
4. Fold pillowcase back in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides<br />
together. Cut out four bag front and back sections.<br />
Two will be used for bag and remaining two will be referred to<br />
as bag facings.<br />
SEWING DIRECTIONS<br />
NOTE: Bag is stitched in 1/4" (6mm) seams.<br />
5. Pin fleece to WRONG side of bag front and back sections.<br />
Baste close to raw edges.<br />
6. On OUTSIDE, pin bag front overlay to one bag section,<br />
having side and upper edges even. Baste. (This will be bag<br />
front.)
English<br />
<strong>2391</strong><br />
1<br />
8<br />
10<br />
12<br />
14<br />
7<br />
11<br />
4 / 4<br />
9<br />
13<br />
2<br />
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />
STRAP<br />
BAG FACING<br />
BACK<br />
FRONT AND<br />
BACK<br />
7. On OUTSIDE, pin closed zipper to bag front, placing zipper<br />
face down, having long edges even and tab end of zipper<br />
tape even with side edge (edge with large dot).<br />
Using an adjustable zipper foot, machine-stitch zipper in<br />
place along seam line as far as small dot; back-stitch at small<br />
dot to reinforce seam. Zipper extends approximately 3-1/4"<br />
(8.3cm) beyond side edge of bag. (Zipper will be adjusted<br />
later.)<br />
8. Stitch remaining half of zipper to bag back in same manner.<br />
Open out bag; press, pressing under 1/4" (6mm) on<br />
remaining raw edge of bag front and back at end of zipper<br />
extension.<br />
9. Cut a piece of ribbon 14" (35.5cm) long for handle. Fold<br />
ribbon in half and on OUTSIDE, pin ribbon to bag front at<br />
large dot, having raw edges even. Baste.<br />
10. With RIGHT sides together, stitch bag front to back at side<br />
and lower edges, leaving the corners free.<br />
11. To form corners, fold corner, matching seams. Stitch seam.<br />
12. Stitch seams of bag facing same as for bag. Press under 1/4"<br />
(6mm) on upper edge of bag facing.<br />
13. Turn bag facing RIGHT side out. Press.<br />
With WRONG sides together, pin facing to bag, matching<br />
seams. Slip-stitch pressed edge of facing over zipper tape.<br />
14. Turn bag RIGHT side out. Place a pin on zipper extension 1"<br />
(2.5cm) beyond side seam. Sew several overcast stitches<br />
across zipper teeth at pin. Trim away lower end of zipper<br />
close to stitching.<br />
Cut a piece of ribbon 3" (7.5cm) long. Wrap ribbon around<br />
adjusted end of zipper, turning under and lapping one end of<br />
ribbon. Stitch close to both edges of ribbon.<br />
BAG H<br />
CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS<br />
1. Cut pillowcase apart along side edges.<br />
2. Open out pillow case so it measures 60” (153cm) long and<br />
22” (56cm) wide. For bag front and back, pin pattern tissue to<br />
RIGHT side of pillowcase front over embroidery or design,<br />
placing lower edge along lower edge of pillowcase.<br />
For bag facing, pin pattern to RIGHT side of pillowcase<br />
slightly above bag front and back. Pin strap to pillowcase, as<br />
shown.<br />
Cut out bag along side and upper edges. Cut out facing and<br />
strap as shown.<br />
9<br />
5<br />
3<br />
11<br />
13<br />
7<br />
8<br />
14<br />
4<br />
6<br />
12<br />
10<br />
SEWING DIRECTIONS<br />
NOTE: Bag is stitched in 1/4" (6mm) seams.<br />
3. Fold bag in half, with RIGHT sides together, having raw<br />
edges even. Stitch side seam.<br />
4. Turn bag RIGHT side out. Pin lower edges of bag together.<br />
Stitch along lower edge. Press.<br />
5. Fold bag strap in half, lengthwise with WRONG sides<br />
together. Press, setting in a crease.<br />
6. Open out long edges of strap and turn them to WRONG side<br />
so that they meet at the crease. Press.<br />
7. Fold strap in half lengthwise, bringing pressed edges<br />
together. Stitch close to both long edges.<br />
8. On OUTSIDE, pin strap to upper edge of bag, centering ends<br />
over side seam and small dot. Baste.<br />
9. Pin fleece to WRONG side of bag facing, having raw edges<br />
even. Baste close to raw edges.<br />
10. Fold bag facing in half, with RIGHT sides together. Stitch<br />
seam.<br />
11. Bring seam to center and stitch across lower edge, leaving an<br />
opening to turn.<br />
12. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to bag at upper edge,<br />
matching centers. Stitch seam.<br />
13. Turn bag RIGHT side out. Slip-stitch opening edges of facing<br />
together. Insert bag facing into bag; press.<br />
14. On OUTSIDE, pin ribbon to upper edge of bag, turning under<br />
and lapping one end at side seam. Stitch close to long edges<br />
of ribbon.