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2391 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

2391 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

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English<br />

<strong>Cutting</strong><br />

<strong>Layouts</strong><br />

®<br />

pattern printed<br />

side down<br />

pattern printed<br />

side up<br />

<strong>2391</strong><br />

Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.<br />

We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.<br />

A<br />

B<br />

© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />

★<br />

✻<br />

1 / 4<br />

See<br />

SPECIAL<br />

CUTTING<br />

NOTES<br />

POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING<br />

TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE<br />

A,B,C,D- DETERMINE FINISHED LENGTH BEFORE CUTTING<br />

A DRESS<br />

USE VINTAGE PILLOWCASE<br />

(APPROX. 30" X 22" (76CM X 56CM)<br />

SEE SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING DRESS<br />

B DRESS<br />

USE PIECE 2<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

SIZES 3 4 5 6 7<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

SIZE 8<br />

2<br />

B<br />

SELVAGE<br />

2<br />

C<br />

A<br />

E<br />

FOLD<br />

G<br />

C<br />

E<br />

SEL.<br />

F<br />

D<br />

F<br />

H<br />

G<br />

H<br />

D<br />

58" 60" (150CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

2<br />

2<br />

12 pieces given<br />

2<br />

2<br />

1<br />

FOLD<br />

FOLD<br />

FOLD<br />

FOLD<br />

SELS.<br />

SEL.<br />

8<br />

SEL.<br />

2<br />

11<br />

9<br />

3<br />

4<br />

1-FRONT AND BACK -A,C<br />

2-FRONT AND BACK -B,D<br />

3-FRONT AND BACK BAND -B,D<br />

4-GUIDE FOR EMBROIDERY -D<br />

5-PANTS FRONT -E,F<br />

6-PANTS BACK -E,F<br />

7-LEG BAND -E<br />

8-LEG BAND -F<br />

9-BAG FRONT AND BACK -G<br />

10-BAG FRONT OVERLAY -G<br />

11-BAG FRONT AND BACK -H<br />

12-BAG STRAP -H<br />

C TOP<br />

D TOP<br />

USE PIECE 2<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

SIZES 3 4 5 6 7<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

SIZE 8<br />

USE PIECE 3<br />

SELVAGE<br />

2<br />

2<br />

FOLD<br />

44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

5<br />

12<br />

USE VINTAGE PILLOWCASE<br />

(APPROX. 30" X 22" (76CM X 56CM)<br />

SEE SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING TOP<br />

PIECE 4 IS A GUIDE FOR EMBROIDERY<br />

7<br />

10<br />

B,D CONTRAST BAND<br />

6<br />

SEL.<br />

U.S. & Canada Toll-Free<br />

1-888-588-2700<br />

The Pattern<br />

SYMBOLS<br />

GRAIN LINE Place on<br />

straight grain of fabric<br />

parallel to selvage<br />

PLACE SOLID LINE on<br />

fold of fabric.<br />

CENTER FRONT OR<br />

BACK of garment.<br />

NOTCHES<br />

DOTS<br />

CUTTING LINE<br />

LENGTHEN OR<br />

SHORTEN LINES<br />

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)<br />

unless otherwise stated is included but<br />

not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.<br />

Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.<br />

See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-<br />

SIZE PATTERNS.<br />

Web Site<br />

http://www.simplicity.com<br />

<strong>General</strong> <strong>Directions</strong><br />

ADJUST IF NEEDED<br />

Make adjustments before placing<br />

pattern on fabric.<br />

TO LENGTHEN:<br />

Cut pattern<br />

between<br />

lengthen or<br />

shorten lines.<br />

Spread pattern<br />

evenly, the<br />

amount needed<br />

and tape to<br />

paper.<br />

TO SHORTEN:<br />

At lengthen or<br />

shorten lines,<br />

make an even<br />

pleat taking up<br />

amount needed.<br />

Tape in place.<br />

When lengthen or shorten lines are<br />

not given, make adjustments at<br />

lower edge of pattern.<br />

Sewing<br />

• SEW garment following Sewing <strong>Directions</strong>.<br />

• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.<br />

• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.<br />

• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so<br />

seams will lie flat.<br />

• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.<br />

Trim enclosed<br />

seams into layers<br />

58" 60" (150CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

Trim corners<br />

3<br />

FOLD<br />

2<br />

2<br />

FOLD<br />

FOLD<br />

2<br />

2<br />

FOLD<br />

SELVAGE<br />

3<br />

FOLD<br />

SELS.<br />

SEL.<br />

SEL.<br />

SEL.<br />

Clip inner<br />

curves<br />

Notch outer<br />

curves<br />

E PANTS<br />

USE PIECES 5 6 7<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

58" 60" (150CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

F PANTS<br />

USE PIECES 5 6<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

58" 60" (150CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

e<br />

E-mail<br />

info@simplicity.com<br />

<strong>Cutting</strong>/Marking<br />

BEFORE CUTTING:<br />

PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry<br />

iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing<br />

washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.<br />

CIRCLE your cutting layout.<br />

PIN pattern to fabric as shown in <strong>Cutting</strong><br />

<strong>Layouts</strong>.<br />

• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold<br />

fabric with RIGHT sides together.<br />

• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place<br />

fabric RIGHT side up.<br />

• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY<br />

DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”<br />

layouts<br />

★ If layout<br />

shows a piece<br />

extending past<br />

fold, cut out all<br />

pieces except<br />

piece that<br />

extends.<br />

Open out<br />

fabric to single<br />

thickness. Cut<br />

extending<br />

piece on<br />

RIGHT side of<br />

fabric in<br />

position<br />

shown.<br />

CUTTING LAYOUTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 2<br />

AFTER CUTTING:<br />

Transfer markings to WRONG side<br />

of fabric before removing pattern.<br />

Use pin and chalk method or<br />

dressmaker’s tracing paper and<br />

wheel.<br />

To Quick Mark:<br />

• Snip edge of fabric to mark<br />

notches, ends of fold lines and<br />

center lines.<br />

• Pin mark dots.<br />

SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES<br />

✻ Mark small<br />

arrows along both<br />

selvages indicating<br />

direction of nap or<br />

design. Fold fabric<br />

crosswise with<br />

RIGHT sides<br />

together, and cut<br />

along fold (a).<br />

Turn one fabric<br />

layer around so<br />

arrows on both<br />

layers go in the<br />

same direction.<br />

Place RIGHT sides<br />

together (b).<br />

7<br />

7<br />

a.<br />

CROSSWISE FOLD<br />

✁<br />

b.<br />

6<br />

SELVAGE<br />

SELVAGES<br />

5<br />

6<br />

SELVAGE<br />

SELVAGES<br />

SELVAGE<br />

SELVAGES<br />

5<br />

FOLD<br />

SELVAGES<br />

SELVAGES<br />

5<br />

FOLD<br />

SELVAGE<br />

5<br />

6<br />

6<br />

FOLD<br />

FOLD<br />

SEL.


English<br />

<strong>2391</strong><br />

CONTRAST BAND<br />

USE PIECE 8<br />

2 / 4<br />

44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)<br />

WITH NAP<br />

ALL SIZES<br />

1<br />

3<br />

4<br />

2<br />

DRESS A, B<br />

BACK FRONT<br />

TOP C, D<br />

SELS.<br />

© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />

8<br />

FOLD<br />

Sewing <strong>Directions</strong><br />

FABRIC<br />

KEY<br />

Read <strong>General</strong> <strong>Directions</strong> on page 1 before you begin.<br />

DRESS A, B AND TOP C, D<br />

CUTTING DIRECTIONS FOR DRESS A AND TOP C<br />

NOTE: Decorative hem or border of pillowcase will be the finished<br />

lower edge of garment.<br />

1. Turn pillowcase INSIDE out. Cut pillowcase apart along<br />

folded end, as shown.<br />

2. Fold pillowcase in half lengthwise, with RIGHT sides<br />

together, bringing seam to center or matching seams.<br />

3. Pin front and back pattern tissue to pillowcase front, over<br />

embroidery or design, placing lower edge along lower edge<br />

of pillowcase to cut out dress front or top front.<br />

Pin tissue printed side down on pillowcase back, placing<br />

lower edge along lower edge of pillowcase to cut out dress<br />

back or top back.<br />

Cut out dress or top along side, armhole and upper edges.<br />

EMBROIDERY D<br />

G,H BAG<br />

USE VINTAGE PILLOWCASE<br />

(APPROX. 30" X 22" (76CM X 56CM)<br />

SEE SEWING DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING BAGS<br />

G POLYESTER FLEECE<br />

USE PIECE 9<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING<br />

4. Cut guide for embroidery tissue pattern along solid lines. On<br />

OUTSIDE, center embroidery guide on top front<br />

approximately 2" (5cm) above lower edge or as you prefer.<br />

Transfer markings to RIGHT side of front, using a washable<br />

fabric pen or pencil.<br />

8<br />

10<br />

6<br />

5<br />

EDGE<br />

9<br />

FOLD<br />

CHAIN STITCH<br />

LAZY-DAISY STITCH<br />

EDGE<br />

11<br />

7<br />

9<br />

SATIN STITCH<br />

H POLYESTER FLEECE<br />

USE PIECE 11<br />

44" 45" (115CM)<br />

A<br />

FRENCH KNOT<br />

5. Using three strands of embroidery thread, work chain stitch<br />

along stems.<br />

For chain stitch- bring the needle to the right side of the<br />

fabric on the transferred design line. Make a small loop with<br />

the thread and hold it in place with your left thumb. Insert the<br />

needle back where the thread first came up. Bring the needle<br />

out a little to the left, over the thread loop.<br />

Using three to six strands of embroidery thread, work satin<br />

stitch for large leaves and flower petals.<br />

For satin stitch- the embroidery stitches should be close<br />

enough to cover the area WITHOUT OVERLAPPING THE<br />

THREAD. Bring the thread to the RIGHT side of A, down at B,<br />

up at C, etc.<br />

Using six strand embroidery thread work lazy-daisy stitch for<br />

small leaves and flowers.<br />

For lazy-daisy stitch- bring the thread up and hold it in a<br />

loop with the left thumb. Insert needle back where the thread<br />

emerged. Then bring the needle out the length the stitch<br />

desired and pull it through the loop. Make a small straight<br />

stitch to anchor the loop at its crown.<br />

Using three strands of embroidery thread, work French knots<br />

at center of flowers.<br />

For French knot- work with as many threads as desired and<br />

use a large eyed needle. Bring thread to RIGHT side at A;<br />

hold thread with thumb and forefinger in left hand; wind<br />

thread around the needle two or three times. Still holding<br />

thread firmly, slide on needle so that point of needle may be<br />

inserted very close to A, but not in the same hole. Pull needle<br />

to WRONG side, drawing up thread to form French Knot.<br />

CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS<br />

NOTE: Illustrations show View B, unless indicated otherwise.<br />

6. Stitch front to back at side seams.<br />

7. Open out both long edges of single fold bias tape and press it<br />

flat. Fold tape in half, lengthwise, having raw edges even.<br />

Press.<br />

8. On OUTSIDE, pin tape to armhole edge of garment, having<br />

raw edges even. Stitch armhole in a 3/8” (1cm) seam. Trim<br />

seam; clip curves.<br />

9. Turn tape to INSIDE; press. Baste close to inner edge.<br />

On OUTSIDE, top-stitch as basted.<br />

10. Open out one edge of bias fold tape.<br />

EDGE<br />

EDGE<br />

11. To make casing in front and back, with RIGHT sides together,<br />

pin tape to upper edge, having raw edges even, turning under<br />

ends at armhole edges.<br />

Stitch in 3/8" (1cm) seam.<br />

Trim seam.<br />

SINGLE THICKNESS<br />

11


English<br />

<strong>2391</strong><br />

14<br />

2<br />

1<br />

13<br />

16<br />

CENTER<br />

BACK<br />

4<br />

12<br />

INNER<br />

LEG<br />

SEAM<br />

CENTER<br />

FRONT<br />

3 / 4<br />

15<br />

3<br />

SIDE SEAM<br />

© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />

12. Turn casing to INSIDE; press.<br />

Stitch close to inner edge.<br />

13. Cut ribbon in half for ties. Insert ribbon through front and back<br />

casings, having ends extend evenly. Tie ribbon into bows at<br />

shoulders when garment is worn. If necessary, trim ends of<br />

ties to a desired length.<br />

FRONT AND BACK BAND B, D<br />

14. Stitch front band to back band at side seams.<br />

Fold band in half, lengthwise with WRONG sides together,<br />

having raw edges even. Press. Baste raw edges together.<br />

15. On OUTSIDE, pin band to lower edge of garment, matching<br />

centers and side seams. Stitch seam. Stitch again 1/4"<br />

(6mm) from first stitching within seam allowance. Trim seam.<br />

Press seam toward garment, pressing band down.<br />

16. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch front and back close to seam.<br />

PANTS E, F<br />

1. Stitch front to back at inner leg seams.<br />

2. With RIGHT sides together, pin center seam, matching inner<br />

leg seams and notches. Stitch seam. To reinforce seam,<br />

stitch again over first stitching.<br />

3. Stitch front to back at side seams.<br />

4. To keep elastic from getting stuck in the seam allowances as<br />

it’s inserted, use fusible web or machine-basting to anchor<br />

them to garment within the casing area. Be sure to remove<br />

basting after casing is finished.<br />

5<br />

5<br />

5. Press 1" (2.5cm) on upper edge to INSIDE, forming casing.<br />

Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.<br />

Stitch close to lower edge of casing, leaving an opening to<br />

insert elastic.<br />

6<br />

10<br />

1<br />

3<br />

6<br />

9<br />

8<br />

12<br />

2<br />

7<br />

11<br />

13<br />

4<br />

6. Cut a piece of elastic to fit waist, plus 1" (2.5cm).<br />

Insert elastic through casing.<br />

Overlap ends and hold with a safety pin.<br />

Try on garment and adjust to fit.<br />

7. Stitch ends of elastic together securely.<br />

Stitch opening closed.<br />

Distribute fullness evenly.<br />

Remove basting.<br />

TIP-To secure elastic so it won’t twist in wearing, stitch<br />

through all thicknesses of casing in the groove of each seam.<br />

8. FOR VIEW E- To make tucks in leg band, on OUTSIDE, fold<br />

along solid lines.<br />

Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from fold.<br />

Press tucks toward fold line.<br />

Baste across side edges.<br />

9. FOR VIEW E, F- Fold leg band along fold line, with RIGHT<br />

sides together, having raw edges even. Stitch ends of band.<br />

Trim seam.<br />

10. Turn band RIGHT side out; press. Baste raw edges together.<br />

11. FOR VIEW E- On OUTSIDE, pin rick rack to band, placing<br />

center of rick rack 5/8" (1.5cm) from upper edge, turning<br />

under ends at side edges. Baste along center of rick rack.<br />

12. FOR VIEW E, F- On OUTSIDE, pin band to lower edge of<br />

pants, matching small dots. Stitch seam. Press band down,<br />

pressing seam up.<br />

13. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch pants close to seam.<br />

BAG G<br />

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS<br />

1. Cut pillowcase apart along side edges and folded end.<br />

2. Pin bag front overlay pattern tissue to RIGHT side of<br />

pillowcase front, over embroidery or design, placing lower<br />

edge along lower edge of pillowcase.<br />

3. Cut out overlay along side and upper edges.<br />

4. Fold pillowcase back in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides<br />

together. Cut out four bag front and back sections.<br />

Two will be used for bag and remaining two will be referred to<br />

as bag facings.<br />

SEWING DIRECTIONS<br />

NOTE: Bag is stitched in 1/4" (6mm) seams.<br />

5. Pin fleece to WRONG side of bag front and back sections.<br />

Baste close to raw edges.<br />

6. On OUTSIDE, pin bag front overlay to one bag section,<br />

having side and upper edges even. Baste. (This will be bag<br />

front.)


English<br />

<strong>2391</strong><br />

1<br />

8<br />

10<br />

12<br />

14<br />

7<br />

11<br />

4 / 4<br />

9<br />

13<br />

2<br />

© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.<br />

STRAP<br />

BAG FACING<br />

BACK<br />

FRONT AND<br />

BACK<br />

7. On OUTSIDE, pin closed zipper to bag front, placing zipper<br />

face down, having long edges even and tab end of zipper<br />

tape even with side edge (edge with large dot).<br />

Using an adjustable zipper foot, machine-stitch zipper in<br />

place along seam line as far as small dot; back-stitch at small<br />

dot to reinforce seam. Zipper extends approximately 3-1/4"<br />

(8.3cm) beyond side edge of bag. (Zipper will be adjusted<br />

later.)<br />

8. Stitch remaining half of zipper to bag back in same manner.<br />

Open out bag; press, pressing under 1/4" (6mm) on<br />

remaining raw edge of bag front and back at end of zipper<br />

extension.<br />

9. Cut a piece of ribbon 14" (35.5cm) long for handle. Fold<br />

ribbon in half and on OUTSIDE, pin ribbon to bag front at<br />

large dot, having raw edges even. Baste.<br />

10. With RIGHT sides together, stitch bag front to back at side<br />

and lower edges, leaving the corners free.<br />

11. To form corners, fold corner, matching seams. Stitch seam.<br />

12. Stitch seams of bag facing same as for bag. Press under 1/4"<br />

(6mm) on upper edge of bag facing.<br />

13. Turn bag facing RIGHT side out. Press.<br />

With WRONG sides together, pin facing to bag, matching<br />

seams. Slip-stitch pressed edge of facing over zipper tape.<br />

14. Turn bag RIGHT side out. Place a pin on zipper extension 1"<br />

(2.5cm) beyond side seam. Sew several overcast stitches<br />

across zipper teeth at pin. Trim away lower end of zipper<br />

close to stitching.<br />

Cut a piece of ribbon 3" (7.5cm) long. Wrap ribbon around<br />

adjusted end of zipper, turning under and lapping one end of<br />

ribbon. Stitch close to both edges of ribbon.<br />

BAG H<br />

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS<br />

1. Cut pillowcase apart along side edges.<br />

2. Open out pillow case so it measures 60” (153cm) long and<br />

22” (56cm) wide. For bag front and back, pin pattern tissue to<br />

RIGHT side of pillowcase front over embroidery or design,<br />

placing lower edge along lower edge of pillowcase.<br />

For bag facing, pin pattern to RIGHT side of pillowcase<br />

slightly above bag front and back. Pin strap to pillowcase, as<br />

shown.<br />

Cut out bag along side and upper edges. Cut out facing and<br />

strap as shown.<br />

9<br />

5<br />

3<br />

11<br />

13<br />

7<br />

8<br />

14<br />

4<br />

6<br />

12<br />

10<br />

SEWING DIRECTIONS<br />

NOTE: Bag is stitched in 1/4" (6mm) seams.<br />

3. Fold bag in half, with RIGHT sides together, having raw<br />

edges even. Stitch side seam.<br />

4. Turn bag RIGHT side out. Pin lower edges of bag together.<br />

Stitch along lower edge. Press.<br />

5. Fold bag strap in half, lengthwise with WRONG sides<br />

together. Press, setting in a crease.<br />

6. Open out long edges of strap and turn them to WRONG side<br />

so that they meet at the crease. Press.<br />

7. Fold strap in half lengthwise, bringing pressed edges<br />

together. Stitch close to both long edges.<br />

8. On OUTSIDE, pin strap to upper edge of bag, centering ends<br />

over side seam and small dot. Baste.<br />

9. Pin fleece to WRONG side of bag facing, having raw edges<br />

even. Baste close to raw edges.<br />

10. Fold bag facing in half, with RIGHT sides together. Stitch<br />

seam.<br />

11. Bring seam to center and stitch across lower edge, leaving an<br />

opening to turn.<br />

12. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to bag at upper edge,<br />

matching centers. Stitch seam.<br />

13. Turn bag RIGHT side out. Slip-stitch opening edges of facing<br />

together. Insert bag facing into bag; press.<br />

14. On OUTSIDE, pin ribbon to upper edge of bag, turning under<br />

and lapping one end at side seam. Stitch close to long edges<br />

of ribbon.

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