1 fusible interfacing a pieces: 1 & 4 - PrintSew

4331
JACKET A,B
1 Front
2 Pocket B
3 Back
4 Upper Collar A
5 Under Collar A
6 Hood B
7 Sleeve
8 Guide For Buttonholes
A
ENGLISH
4331
Page 1 (3 pages)
BODY MEASUREMENTS
MISSES’/JEUNE FEMME
Size/Taille 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
Bust 301 /2 311 /2 32 1/
Waist
2 34 36
23 24 25 26
38 40 42 44 46
1/ 2 28 30 32 34 37 39
Hip 32 1/ 2 331 /2 341 /2 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Bk. Waist Lgth. 151 /2 153 /4 16 161 /4 161 /2 163 /4 17 171 /4 173 /8 171 /2
T. de poitrine 78 80 83 87 92 97 102 107 112 117
T. de taille 58 61 64 67 71 76 81 87 94 97
T. de hanches 83 85 88 92 97 102 107 112 117 122
Nuque à taille 39.5 40 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 43 44 44.5 45
B
FABRIC CUTTING LAYOUTS
Indicates Bustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or Biceps. Measurements
refer to circumference of Finished Garment (Body Measurement +
Wearing Ease + Design Ease). Adjust Pattern if necessary.
Lines shown are CUTTING LINES, however, 5/8" (15mm) SEAM
ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, unless otherwise indicated. See SEWING
INFORMATION for seam allowance.
Find layout(s) by Garment/View, Fabric Width and Size. Layouts show
approximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary slightly according
to your pattern size.
All layouts are for with or without nap unless specified. For fabrics with nap,
pile, shading or one-way design, use WITH NAP layout.
Position fabric as indicated on layout. If layout shows...
SINGLE THICKNESS—Place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics, place
pile side down.)
DOUBLE THICKNESS
WITH FOLD—Fold fabric right sides together.
WITHOUT FOLD—With right sides together, fold fabric
CROSSWISE. Cut fold from selvage to selvage (A). Keeping
right sides together, turn upper layer completely around
so nap runs in the same direction as lower layer.
GRAINLINE—Place on straight grain of fabric, keeping line parallel
to selvage or fold. ON "with nap" layout arrows should
point in the same directions. (On Fur Pile fabrics, arrows point
in direction of pile.)
FOLD—Place edge indicated exactly along fold of fabric.
NEVER cut on this line.
When pattern piece is shown like this...
Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut
this piece (A). Fold fabric and cut piece on fold, as
shown (B).
Cut piece only once. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut
this piece. Open fabric; cut piece on single layer.
Cut out all pieces along cutting line indicated for desired size using long,
even scissor strokes, cutting notches outward.
Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tissue.
(Fur Pile fabrics, transfer markings to wrong side.)
NOTE: Broken-line boxes ( a! b !c! ) in layouts represent pieces cut by
measurements provided.
JACKET A (Border Prints) PIECES: 1,3,4,5 & 7
60" (150 cm) *
AS/TT
FUSIBLE INTERFACING A PIECES: 1 & 4
20,24" (51,61 cm)
AS/TT
JACKET B PIECES: 1,2,3,6 & 7
45" (115 cm) *
S/T
6-8-10
S/L
S/L
S/L
S/L
S/L
F/P
45" (115 cm) *
S/T
12-14-16
45" (115 cm) *
S/T
18
45" (115 cm) *
S/T
20-22
60" (150 cm) *
S/T
6-8-10
60" (150 cm) *
S/T
12-14
60" (150 cm) *
S/T
16-18-20-22
FUSIBLE INTERFACING B PIECE: 1
20,24" (51,61 cm)
AS/TT
SEWING INFORMATION
5 /8" (1.5cm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED,
(unless otherwise indicated)
ILLUSTRATION SHADING KEY
Right Side Wrong Side Interfacing Lining Underlining
Press as you sew. Press seams flat, then press open, unless otherwise
instructed. Clip seam allowances, where necessary, so they lay flat.
Trim enclosed
seams into layers Trim corners
S/L
S/L
S/L
1
1
1
S/L
S/L
1
Notch
outer
curves
1
1
S/L
S/L
S/L
S/L
S/L
S/L
S/L
S/L
F/P
S/L
S/L
Clip
inner
curves
.
GLOSSARY
Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions are
explained below.
EDGESTITCH-Stitch close to finished edge or seam.
FINISH-Stitch 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one of the follow
ing: (1) Pink OR (2) Overcast OR (3) Turn in along stitching and stitch close
to fold OR (4) Overlock.
OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply Seam Binding.
REINFORCE-Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions,
using small machine stitches.
SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of
underneath fabric.
STAYSTITCH-Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually
1/2” (13mm) from raw edge).
TOPSTITCH-On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or previous
stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch where indicated in instruc
tions.
JACKET A,B
1. NOTE: Under each sub-heading, the first view will be illustrated, unless
otherwise indicated.
Interfacing
2. Trim corners from INTERFACING, as shown. Fuse INTERFACING to
wrong side of each matching FABRIC section, following manufacturer’s
instructions.
Front and Back
3. FINISH outer edge of FRONT (1) self
facing.
4. View B:
5. Turn upper edge of POCKET (2) to outside
along foldline. Stitch ends. Trim, as shown.
© McCall Pattern Company. 2004. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A.

6. Turn upper edge of pocket to inside,
turning in remaining seam allowances
and diagonally folding corners. Press.
7. Baste 1/4”(6mm) from upper raw
edge.
8. TOPSTITCH pocket along basting.
9. Pin pocket to front, matching
symbols. EDGESTITCH side and
lower edge.
10. Views: A,B
11. Stitch BACK (3) and front together at shoulders.
12. STAYSTITCH entire
jacket neck edge, as shown.
Turn in seam allowances on
shoulder edges of self
facings; press.
13. REINFORCE neck
edge of UPPER COLLAR
(4) through triangles, as
shown. Clip to triangles.
14. Turn in seam
allowance between clips.
Press. Trim pressed seam
allowance to 3/8”(10mm).
15. Stitch upper collar
and UNDER COLLAR (5)
sections together, leaving
notched edge open.
Trim.
VIEW A
Collar
ENGLISH
4331
Page 2 (3 pages)
4
16. Turn. Press. Baste
raw edges together. TOP-
STITCH finished edges of
collar.
17. Pin collar to neck
edge, matching large circle
to center front, clipping
jacket neck edge where
necessary. Baste, keeping
pressed edge free.
18. Turn self facings to outside
along foldlines. Pin self facings to
neck edge, clipping self facings
where necessary. Stitch, keeping
pressed edge of collar free.
19. Clip neck seam allowance at
ends of self facings, as shown. Trim.
20. Turn self facings to inside.
Press seam toward collar between
clips. SLIPSTITCH pressed edge of
collar and self facings over seams.
VIEW B
Hood
21. Stitch dart in HOOD (6). Press
towards center.
22. Stitch hood sections
together at center back. Press
seam to one side.
23. TOPSTITCH hood along
seam.
24. Trim seam allowance close
to stitching.
25. Turn in seam allowance
at front opening edge of hood.
Press.
26. Pin hood to neck edge, matching large circles, clipping
neck edge where necessary; baste.
27. Turn self facings
to outside along foldlines.
Pin neck edge,
clipping facing where
necessary; stitch.
28. Turn self facings to
inside. Press. Press seam
toward jacket.
29. SLIPSTITCH pressed
edge of self facing over
seam.
30. Baste hood neck seam
allowance 1/4” (6mm) from
raw edge.
31. TOPSTITCH seam
along basting between shoulder
seams.
32. Trim close to stitching.
33. With right sides
together, pin SLEEVE (7)
to armhole edge, placing
large circle at shoulder
seam. Baste. Stitch.
Stitch again 1/4”(6mm)
away in seam
allowance. Trim close to
stitching. Press seam
toward sleeve.
34. Pin front and back
together at sides; pin
sleeve edges together.
Stitch in one continuous
seam. Stitch underarm
curve again along previous
stitching.
VIEWS A,B
Sleeve and Side Seams
35. Turn lower edge of sleeve to
inside along foldline. Press. Baste
close to fold. Sew hem in place. FIN-
ISH raw edge.
Finishing
36. View A: TOPSTITCH lower edge
of sleeve 3/8” (1cm) from folded edge.
37. View B: Using wool yarn, work blanket stitch along
lower edge of sleeve.
38. Views A,B:
39. To form cuffs, turn lower edge of
sleeve to outside along roll line; press
lightly.
40. Turn lower edge of self facing to
outside along foldline. Stitch across facing
2”(5cm) above raw edge. Trim, as
shown.
40. Turn self facing
to inside, turning up
hem. Baste close
to fold. FINISH raw
edge. Sew hem in
place, easing in
fullness, if necessary.
Press. Sew facing to
hem.
41. View A: TOPSTITCH front
opening edges 3/8” (1cm) from
folded edge, connecting to collar
stitching, as shown.
42. View B: Using wool
yarn, work overcast stitch
along front opening and
hood edges, as shown.
43. Place GUIDE FOR BUTTON-
HOLES (8) on right front, having edges
of tissue even with neck seam and
front opening edges of garment, as
shown. Transfer markings. Make buttonholes
at markings.
44. Lap opening edges, as
shown, matching centers. Using
buttonholes as guides, make button
markings on left front. Sew
buttons at markings.
© McCall Pattern Company. 2004. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A.

ENGLISH
4331
Page 3 (3 pages)
© McCall Pattern Company. 2004. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A.