2339 General Directions - PrintSew

English/Spanish 3
®
2339
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
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Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.
Gracias por haber comprado este patrón de Simplicity.
Hemos hecho todos los esfuerzos para ofrecerle un producto de alta calidad.
A
A
AMAZING FIT SHIRT
C
B
This fitted shirt with menswear inspired details has all the trademarks of one amazing
shirt: Bust darts and optional front and back waistline darts for a more fitted look, front
buttoned band, neck band with or without collar, yoke with forward shoulder seams and
sleeve variations. Add a pocket or the feminine front ruffles and it all adds up to one
amazing shirt.
The shirt when sewn will have approximately 3-1/2” (9cm) of ease in the bust and 9”
(23cm) in the waist area, dependent if you are not using the waistline darts or 5-1/4”
(13.5cm) if you are. Individual pattern pieces are given for the bust cup sizes A, B, C and
D. Depending on your personal taste, the fabric you choose and your personal fitting
adjustments, the shirt may have a little more or a little less ease. Be careful in both
directions as too much fabric in the wrong place is just as bad as too little fabric.
We also have included FINE TUNE AS YOU SEW fitting steps, 1” (2.5cm) seam
allowances in key areas and professional AMAZING FIT tips to get the best shirt
possible.
We suggest that you make a muslin fitting shell like the professionals do so that you can
really get a great fit without the added stress of using your real fabric.
HOW THIS SHIRT SHOULD FIT
The bust darts should release thier fullness at the apex of your bust and lie smooth.The
vertical seams should fit and lie smoothly over your contours. If you choose to use the
waistline darts, the fit should be more sleek and the darts should lie flat. When closed,
there should be no gaps between the buttonholes and the lower edge/hip area should
be smooth with no wrinkling. The sleeves should fit smoothly and not bind, wrinkle or
pull across your arms.
CHOOSING YOUR PATTERN SIZE
There are three unique sets of pattern pieces, each one for the bust cup sizes. Follow
the measuring guidelines and the measurement chart to determine which pattern piece
will give you the best results.
Use your own knowledge about your body type and personal experience on how a fitted
shirt fits you. Wear the appropriate undergarments while checking body measurements
for better accuracy.
C
B
13 pieces given
1A 1B 1C 1D
4
3
9
BUST CUP MEASUREMENT
6
5
7
1A-FRONT FOR A CUP
1B-FRONT FOR B CUP
1C-FRONT FOR C CUP
1D-FRONT FOR D CUP
2A-FRONT BAND FOR A CUP
2B-FRONT BAND FOR B CUP
2C-FRONT BAND FOR C CUP
2D-FRONT BAND FOR D CUP
3-POCKET -A
4-BACK
11
BUST MEASUREMENT
HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT -
BUST MEASUREMENT =
To check your cup size, take your bust (A) and high bust (B) measurements and
record them. Compare those measurements to the measurements on the
pattern envelope. Next, determine your cup size by subtracting your high bust
measurement from your bust measurement. Select the size which matches
those measurements closely.
8
5-YOKE
6-NECK BAND
7-COLLAR -A,B
8-SLEEVE -A
9-TAB -A
10-SLEEVE -B,C
11-CONTINUOUS LAP -B,C
12-CUFF -B,C
13-FRONT RUFFLE -C
2A 2B 2C 2D
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12 13
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free
1-888-588-2700
The Pattern
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
NOTCHES
DOTS
CUTTING LINE
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-
SIZE PATTERNS.
Web Site
http://www.simplicity.com
General Directions
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
Sewing
• SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
Trim corners
Clip inner
curves
Notch outer
curves
If your bust is 1/2” to 1” (1.3cm-2.5cm) larger than your high bust
measurement, you are a A cup.
If your bust is 1” to 2” (2.5cm-5cm) larger than your high bust
measurement, you are a B cup.
If your bust is 2” to 3” (5cm-7.5cm) larger than your high bust
measurement, you are a C cup.
If your bust is 3” to 4” (7.5cm-10cm) larger than your high bust
measurement, you are a D cup.
RELATED MEASUREMENTS
Measure your waist and record this measurement. Compare with the
measurement on the pattern tissue. Remember that the finished shirt
will these approximate measures in wearing and design ease:
3 1/2” (9cm) in the bust area 9” (23cm) in the waist area without waist
darts 5-1/4” (13.5cm) in the waist area with waist darts
Measure your arm length from the shoulder bone to your wrist bone,
having arm slightly bent. Measure your bicep or the fullest part of your
upper arm. Record both measurement for use in sleeve/and or pattern
alteration. Compare your measurements to the chart below and use a
general guide for altering.
Arm Length 22˚”
58cm
Upper Arm 9˙”
23.5cm
6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
23”
58.5cm
9˚”
25m
23˙
59cm
10˙”
26cm
23˘”
59.5cm
10˚”
27.5cm
23˚”
60.5cm
11˙”
28.5cm
24”
61cm
11˚”
30cm
24˙”
61.5cm
12˙”
31cm
24˘”
62cn
12˚”
32.5cm
24˚”
63cm
13˙”
33.5cm
e
E-mail
info@simplicity.com
Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
★ If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
To Quick Mark:
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• Pin mark dots.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
✻ Mark small
arrows along both
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
YOUR BODY MEASUREMENTS
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
a.
CROSSWISE FOLD
✁
b.
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
The pattern has been based on the body measurements given.
Once you have selected your pattern size, the compare your bust
measurement to the chart given on the pattern envelope.
Remember that these are body measurements that the pattern
pieces are based on. THEY ARE NOT FINISHED GARMENT
MEASUREMENTS!
Choose the appropriate KEY pattern pieces as follows:
FOR BUST A CUP - Use Front pattern 1A and Front Band pattern
2A.
FOR BUST B CUP - Use Front pattern 1B and Front Band pattern
2B.
FOR BUST C CUP - Use Front pattern 1C and Front Band pattern
2C.
FOR BUST D CUP - Use Front pattern 1D and Front Band pattern
2D.
Once you have selected your KEY pattern pieces, make your
adjustments for length using the lengthen or shorten lines printed on
the pattern pieces OR for Miss Petite, follow fold out instructions
printed on the pattern piece.

English/Spanish 3
2339
Cutting
Layouts
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SPECIAL BUST DART ADJUSTMENT
If the bust dart is too high or too low, determine the amount you have to move the dart
for a correct fit.
Correct the Front pattern as follows:
A. Draw a rectangle around the bust dart and a portion of the waist line dart, keeping
lines 1” (2.5cm) above and below broken bust dart lines.
B. Cut out along the lines. Place a piece of paper under the pattern. Slide the dart
section up or down the amount needed, keeping the vertical edges even. Tape in place.
Re-draw the cutting lines, seam lines, blending into the original lines. Re-draw waistline
darts if used.
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
MISS PETITE: ADJUST PATTERN BEFORE CUTTING
A SHIRT
USE PIECES 1 (A,B,C OR D) 2 (A,B,C OR D) 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
1A
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
1B 58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14
1C
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 16 18 20 22
CUT ONE OF PIECE 3
2
★
1
8
3
4
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
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4
7
1
2
★
✻
SELVAGES
4
1
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
FOLD
1
STAY-STITCHING
9
2
2 7
8
9
7
SINGLE THICKNESS
SEL.
6
SEL.
SELVAGES
8
5
FOLD
SELVAGES
9
6
5
3
FOLD
6
3
★
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 2 (A,B,C OR D) 6 7
1D 20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
B SHIRT
USE PIECES 1 (A,B,C OR D) 2 (A,B,C OR D) 4 5 6 7 10 11 12
2A
2B
Sewing Directions
FABRIC
KEY
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14
10
2
5
11
12 7
INTERFACING
SELVAGES
6
1
FOLD
USE PIECES 2 (A,B,C OR D) 6 7 12
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
SHIRT A, B, C
4
12
11 12 2
READ ALL THE AMAZING FIT SHIRT INFORMATION BEFORE SEWING!
NOTE: You will see that most of the seams will be machine-basted first and then
your fine tuning adjustments will be made. This will make adjusting your
fit easier during construction. The waistline darts on all views are
optional.
1. Stay-stitch front and yoke neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut edge in direction
of arrows. This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent stretching
on curved edges. Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following
illustrations.
2. To make bust darts in front, with RIGHT sides together, fold the fabric
through the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together.
On INSIDE, place pins at RIGHT angles to the broken lines. Stitch the dart
from wide end to point.
TIP- To prevent a “bubble” at the point, make the last few stitches right on the
fold and leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch
at the point. Press the dart flat along the stitching to “blend” the stitches, then
press dart down
10
2D 20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
A
4
2C
11
TO RAISE DART
7
7
2
SELVAGES
1
FOLD
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 16 18 20 22
4
1
2
6
7
5
12
5
12
2
SELVAGE
6
FOLD
FOLD
SINGLE THICKNESS
SELVAGES
10
7
6
SELVAGE
FOLD
SEL.
SEL.
SEL.
★
6
SEL.
4
B
C SHIRT
USE PIECES 1 (A,B,C OR D) 2 (A,B,C OR D) 4 5 6 10 11 12 13
3A 44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14
3B
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 16 18 20 22
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 2 (A,B,C OR D) 6 12
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
4
12
4
SELVAGES
1
6
DOUBLE THICKNESS ✻
SELVAGES
11
12
10
13
FOLD SELVAGES
SELVAGES
1
★
DOUBLE THICKNESS ✻
5
2
SELVAGES
11
13 6
10
12
5
FOLD 2 SELVAGES
3C 58" 60" (150CM)
3D 58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP WITH NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14
SIZES 16 18 20 22
2 SELVAGES
12 2 SELVAGES
3E
10
3
1
6
5 12 12 6
11
4
13
FOLD
5
11
4
A B
1
6
10
TO LOWER DART
2
5
13
FOLD
SELVAGE
FOLD
6
12
SEL.
★
Español
3. To make waistline darts, with RIGHT sides together, fold the fabric through
the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together. On
INSIDE, place pins at RIGHT angles to the broken lines. Stitch the dart from
the middle to one point. Then, overlapping several stitches, work from the
middle to the other point. Carefully clip the dart at its widest point so that it
will lie flat.
TIP- To prevent a “bubble” at each point, make the last few stitches right on
the fold and leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT backstitch
at the points.
Press the dart flat along the stitching to “blend” the stitches, then press dart
toward center.
POCKET A
SEÑORITA PEQUEÑA: AJUSTE EL PATRÓN ANTES DE CORTAR
A CAMISA
USE LAS PIEZAS 1 (A,B,C O D) 2 (A,B,C O D) 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
1A
44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TODAS LAS TALLAS
1B
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA
TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14
1C
58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA
TALLAS 16 18 20 22 / CORTE UNA PIEZA 3
ENTRETELA USE LAS PIEZAS 2 (A,B,C OR D) 6 7
1D 20" A 25" (51CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA
TODAS LAS TALLAS
B CAMISA
USE LAS PIEZAS 1 (A,B,C O D) 2 (A,B,C O D) 4 5 6 7 10 11 12
2A
44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA / TODAS LAS TALLAS
2B 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA/ TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14
2C 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 16 18 20 22
ENTRETELA USE LAS PIEZAS 2 (A,B,C O D) 6 7 12
2D 20" A 25" (51CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA
TODAS LAS TALLAS
C CAMISA
USE LAS PIEZAS 1 (A,B,C O D) 2 (A,B,C O D) 4 5 6 10 11 12 13
3A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA /TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14
3B 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA /TALLAS 16 18 20 22
3C 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA /TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14
3D 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA / TALLAS 16 18 20 22
ENTRETELA USE LAS PIEZAS 2 (A,B,C O D) 6 12
3E 20" A 25" (51CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA/ TODAS LAS TALLAS
Double Thickness= Espesor Doble
Single Thickness= Espesor Sencillo
Fold= Doblez
Selvage (s) Sel.)= Orillo(s)
4. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on upper edge of pocket. Turn upper edge to
OUTSIDE along fold line, forming facing. Stitch along seam line on raw
edges. Trim seam allowance in the facing area to 1/4” (6mm) as shown.
5. Turn corners RIGHT side out, turn facing to the WRONG side; press,
pressing under raw edges along stitching. Stitch facing close to inner edge.
6. On OUTSIDE, pin pocket to LEFT front, placing upper corners at large dots.
Stitch close to side and lower edges.

English/Spanish 3
2339
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11
YOKE
FACING
FRONT RUFFLE C
© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
YOKE
YOKE FACING
15
BACK
16
7. Fold front ruffle in half in half lengthwise, with WRONG sides together. Press.
Pin raw edges together. To gather ruffle between small and large dots, stitch
along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machinestitch.
8. On OUTSIDE, pin ruffle to front, matching small and large dots, having raw
edges even. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Machine-baste.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS
9. Make optional waistline darts on back in same manner as front darts and
press darts toward center.
NOTE: Yoke will be applied using a professional no hand-sewing method. Follow
directions carefully.
10. With RIGHT sides together, pin back to yoke, matching centers. Machinebaste.
11. With back sandwiched between yoke and yoke facing, pin notched edges
together, having RIGHT side of back and yoke together. Stitch seam through
all thicknesses. Trim seam; press. Press yoke up, leaving yoke facing down
toward shirt back, as shown.
12. With RIGHT sides together, pin yoke to fronts at shoulder edges. Machinebaste.
13. Roll back and both front sections together toward yoke, as shown. Having
RIGHT side of yoke facing against the WRONG side of fronts, pin shoulder
edges together. (Rolled shirt is between yoke layers.) Stitch seams through
all thicknesses, being careful not to catch in rolled shirt. Trim and press
seams.
14. Reach in and pull out rolled shirt through one armhole opening, turning shirt
RIGHT side out. Press all yoke seams. Machine-baste neck and armhole
edges together.
15. With WRONG sides together, pin front to back at side seams. Machine-baste
along the 1” (2.5cm) seam line. Press up hem. Machine-baste along center
of hem allowance to within 2” (5cm) of basted side seams.
16. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of front band following
manufacturer’s directions. Press under 1/2” (1.3cm) on long unnotched edge
of band.
F
19
A
17
D
21
18
B C
G
MARKING TIP
20
E
22
17. With RIGHT sides together, pin front band to front, matching small dots and
notches. Lower edge of band will extend 5/8” (1.5cm) beyond basted hem.
Machine-baste.
18. Fold band along fold line, with WRONG sides together. Press. On OUTSIDE,
machine-baste band along seam.
FINE TUNE AS YOU SEW
Check the fit of your garment at this point before permanently stitching your side
seams and apply the fashion details. For clarity, the pocket for View A or the ruffle
for View C.
Try the shirt shell on with the appropriate undergarment, Lap RIGHT front over
LEFT, matching centers. Pin the centers front in place. Have your tools handy and
keep checking your fit as you make the adjustment to see your progress. If
possible, enlist the help of a friend for any back adjustments.
A. First check the overall fit of the bust, hip and waist areas. Make sure that the
your seams, darts and centers are in the right places.
Side seams are at your sides, the centers match your centers.
Bust darts are releasing fullness over your bust apex smoothly.
Waistline darts lie flat and smooth over your body contours, providing adequate
suppression (nipped in waist).
The front closing lies flat and smooth without gapping or pulling open and the
garment fits smoothly over your hips.
NOW, work on fine tuning the shell of the shirt remembering that a little
adjustment goes a long way!
B. If the bust area is too tight or the front closing gaps at your bust line, let out the
basting from the underarm to the notch. Shift more of the seam toward front,
tapering back into the normal seam line at notch. NOTE: The seam allowances
will be uneven.
C. If the back feels tight or is forming wrinkles underneath the armhole, let out the
basting from the underarm to the notch. Shift more of the seam toward back,
tapering back into the normal seam line at notch. NOTE: The seam allowances
will be uneven.
D. If the hip area feels tight around your derriere and the side seam pulls toward
the back, release the basting from the seams below the waist line. Smooth the
back of the garment over contours, making sure that the side seams are
perpendicular to the floor. Pin. NOTE: The seam allowance will be uneven.
E. If the hip is too loose, take in the side seams below the waist line, tapering back
to the basted seam allowance.
F. If the overall body width is too loose, take in deeper side seams between
armhole edge and waist line, tapering back to seam allowance OR if too snug,
reverse the process, letting out the seam.
G. If the waist is too loose, take in deeper side seams between the notch and 2”
(2.5cm) below waist line, tapering back into basted seam allowances OR if too
snug, reverse the process, letting out the seam.
REMEMBER - If you made any adjustments that affected the armhole, keep in
mind that the sleeve will have to be adjusted accordingly.
Take off the shell being careful not to disturb the pins. Mark all of the new seam
lines using chalk, dressmakers pencil, water soluble fabric marker or a silver of
soap.
MARKING TIP - Separate seam allowance at pins and mark new lines on
WRONG side. Remember to transfer any other pattern markings to the new seam
line. Remove pins. Stitch seams as instructed along your newly marked seam
lines.
NOW separate the shell along all machine bastings. After stitching seams as
instructed below, trim any excess seam allowances to within 5/8” (1.5cm) of
stitching.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS
19. With RIGHT sides together, stitch front to back at side seams.
AMAZING TIP: Finish the seam allowances by overlocking with your serger or
with a zig zag stitch.
20. Press under hem allowance on lower edge of garment. To form narrow hem,
tuck under raw edge to meet crease. Press. Stitch hem in place.
21. Attach the prepared front band to garment as follows: With RIGHT sides
together, pin front band to front, placing lower edge at small dot, having raw
edges even. Stitch. Trim seam.
22. Press seam toward band, pressing band out. Turn lower edge of band to
OUTSIDE along fold line. Stitch across lower end of band along seam line.
Trim seam.

English/Spanish 3
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25
4 / 4
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© Copyright 2010—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
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34
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39
23. Turn band to INSIDE along fold line, forming facing and turning corner out.
Press. Pin pressed under edge of band facing over seam, placing pins on
OUTSIDE. On OUTSIDE, stitch close to band seam, catching in pressed
edge of facing on INSIDE and removing pins as you come to them. If you
prefer, edge-stitch front edge of band.
NECK BAND AND COLLAR A, B
24. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of one neck band and one collar
section. Cut across corners that will be enclosed with seams. Fuse
interfacing in place, following manufacturer’s directions. Remaining neck
band and collar sections will be referred to as facings.
25. Clip garment neck edge to stay-stitching. With RIGHT sides together, pin
single notched edge of band to neck edge, matching centers and placing
small dots at shoulder seams. (Neck band extends 5/8" (1.5cm) beyond front
opening edges.) Stitch neck edge. Trim seam; clip curves. Press band out;
press seam toward band.
26. With RIGHT sides together and raw edges even, stitch facing to collar,
leaving notched edges open. Trim seam and corners.
27. Turn collar; press. Machine-baste raw edges together. With RIGHT sides
together and raw edges even, pin collar (facing side) to neck band, matching
centers back and double notches and placing ends at small dots. Machinebaste.
28. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on single notched edge of neck band facing; trim to
1/4" (6mm). With RIGHT sides together, pin neck band facing to neck band
(over collar), matching centers back. Stitch front and double notched edge.
Trim seam; clip curves.
29. Turn band facing to INSIDE; press. Pin pressed edge of facing over seam,
placing pins on OUTSIDE. On OUTSIDE, stitch close to all edges of neck
band, catching in pressed edge of facing on INSIDE and removing pins as
you come to them.
NECK BAND C
30. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of one neck band section following
manufacturer’s directions. Press under edge 5/8" (1.5cm) on single notched
edge of neck band facing; 1/4" (6mm).
31. With RIGHT sides together, stitch neck band facing to neck band, leaving
single notched edge open. Trim seam; clip curves.
32. Turn neck band; press. Clip garment neck edge to stay-stitching along
curves. On OUTSIDE, pin neck band to neck edge, matching centers back
and placing small dots at shoulder seams. Machine-baste. Stitch, being
careful not to catch in pressed edge of neck band. Trim seam; clip curves.
33. Press seam toward band, pressing band out. Pin pressed edge of facing
over seam, placing pins on OUTSIDE. On OUTSIDE, stitch close to all
edges of neck band, catching in pressed edge of facing on INSIDE and
removing pins as you come to them.
SLEEVES A
34. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of tab, following manufacturer’s
directions. With RIGHT sides together, fold tab in half lengthwise having raw
edges even. Stitch in a 3/8” (1cm) seam, leaving end with small and large
dots open. Trim seam and corners.
35. Turn tab RIGHT side out; press. Make buttonhole in tab at marking.
36. On INSIDE, pin tab to sleeve, matching small and large dots. Stitch across
end of tab between dots 3/8” (1cm) from raw edge. Trim seam to 1/4” (6mm).
Turn tab down; press. Stitch 3/8” (1cm) from upper edge of tab.
37. Turn lower edge of sleeve to INSIDE along fold line, forming hem. Press.
Press under 1/4” (6mm) on raw edge. Machine-baste hem in place, keeping
tab free.
38. Turn lower edge to OUTSIDE 2” (5cm), forming cuff. Sew button to small dot
on sleeve. Turn tab over cuff and fasten to button.
39. With WRONG sides together, pin underarm seam of sleeve, having lower
edges even. Machine-baste along the 1” (2.5cm) seam line. To ease top of
sleeve between notches, stitch along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE
seam line using a long machine-stitch.
SLEEVES B, C
40. To make slash opening at lower edge of sleeve, stitch along stitching lines...
pivot and take one small stitch across the point.
41. Slash between stitching, being careful not to slash through the stitch at the
point.
42
46
49
52
A
C
43
50
47
B
D
45
44
48
53
51
42. Stitch along stitching lines on continuous lap.
43. Spread slashed edges of sleeve apart so that they form a straight line. Baste
RIGHT side of continuous lap to WRONG side of slashed edges, matching
stitching lines and small dots. Stitch along stitching line.
44. Press lap out, pressing seam toward lap. Press under 1/4” (6mm) on
remaining long edge of lap. Stitch pressed edge over seam.
45. Press front portion of lap to INSIDE; baste in place across lower edge. Stitch
diagonally across upper edge of lap, as shown.
46. To make pleats, on OUTSIDE, fold along solid lines. Bring folds to broken
lines; pin. Baste across lower edge.
47. With WRONG sides together, pin underarm seam of sleeve. Machine-baste
along the 1” (2.5cm) seam line. To ease top of sleeve between notches,
stitch along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line using a long
machine-stitch.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR ALL VIEWS
48. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out.
Hold garment WRONG side out with the armhole toward you. With RIGHT
sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge, matching underarm seams and
small dots. Pull up ease-stitches to fit. To distribute fullness evenly, slide
fabric along bobbin threads until there are no puckers or tucks on the seam
line. Machine-baste
FINE TUNE AS YOU SEW
Check the fit of the sleeves before permanently stitching into the armhole. Try on
the shirt and stand in front of a mirror. The sleeves should hang straight without
twisting, binding or puling across your biceps.
A. If the bicep is too snug, let out the basted seam where its tight. Re-pin seam,
tapering back to the seam allowance near armhole edge.
B. FOR VIEW A - If the overall fit of the sleeve is too loose including the opening,
crease the seam and pin out the fullness along crease, tapering back to seam at
armhole edge.
C. FOR ALL VIEWS - If you have a sloping shoulder on one side of your body,
insert a thin shoulder pad on the sloping side to balance out the shoulders.
D. Take off the garment, being careful not to disturb the pins, Mark all the seam
lines the same way you marked your seams on the previous fitting.
NOW, remove the sleeves. Remove basting from seams. Stitch underarm
seam along newly marked lines. Trim any excess seam allowances to within
5/8” (1.5cm) of stitching.
For View A: Turn up hem and stitch in place along upper edge. Turn back
cuff. Fasten tab
For All Views: Pin, baste and ease sleeve into the armhole same as Step 48.
Stitch. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from first stitching. Trim seam below notches
close to stitching. Press only the seam allowance, shrinking out fullness.
CUFFS - VIEWS B, C
49. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of cuff. Cut diagonally across corners
that will be enclosed with seams. Fuse interfacing in place, following
manufacturer’s directions.
50. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on notched edge of cuff facing; trim to 1/4" (6mm).
With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to cuff, leaving notched edge open.
Trim seam and corners.
51. Turn cuff; press. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to cuff, placing
opening edges at small dots. Baste. Stitch. Trim seam; press toward cuff.
52. Pin pressed edge of cuff facing over seam, placing pins on OUTSIDE. On
OUTSIDE, top-stitch cuff close to seam and along outer edges, catching in
pressed edge on INSIDE and removing pins as you come to them. Make
buttonholes in cuff. Sew buttons at small dots.
FINISHING FOR ALL VIEWS
NOTE: For View C, upper buttonhole and button are optional.
53. If pattern has been altered, respace buttonhole markings. Make buttonholes
in RIGHT front and at end of neck band for Views A, B. Lap RIGHT front over
LEFT, matching centers. Sew buttons under buttonholes.
Now that you have finished, mark all your adjustments onto your pattern
pieces. The next time, just cut and sew....AMAZING!