3584 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

English/Spanish 3
Cutting
Layouts
®
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
3584
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
★
✻
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Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.
Gracias por haber comprado este patrón de Simplicity.
Hemos hecho todos los esfuerzos para ofrecerle un producto de alta calidad.
A
C
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
A,B TOPS ARE SIZED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY
A TOP
USE PIECES 1 2 3 4
1 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
B TOP
A
C
USE PIECES 1 2 3 6
PIECE 7 IS CUT OF ELASTIC
2 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
B
D
E
B
D
C
A
E
D
A/B/C
2
4
FOLD
3
1
FOLD
6
2
B
D
E
FOLD
3
1
FOLD
SEL.
SEL.
SELS.
18 pieces given
1
15
8
2
9
3
14
4
1-FRONT -A,B
2-BACK -A,B
3-NECK BAND -A,B
4-SLEEVE -A
5-PANTS FRONT AND BACK -A,B,C
6-SLEEVE -B
7-SLEEVE ELASTIC GUIDE -B
8-FRONT -C,D
9-FRONT INTERFACING -C,D
A,B PANTS
USE PIECE 5
3 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
C PAJAMAS
USE PIECES 5 8 10 11 12 13
CUT ONE OF PIECE 10
4 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
D PAJAMAS
5 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
5
11 12 13
USE PIECES 8 10 11 12 13 15
CUT ONE OF PIECE 10
16 17
10-POCKET -C,D,E
11-BACK -C,D
12-COLLAR -C,D
13-SLEEVE -C,D
14-BUTTONHOLE GUIDE -C,D
15-PANTS FRONT AND BACK -D
16-FRONT -E
17-BACK -E
18-SLEEVE -E
6
18
5
7
10
12
15
11
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free
1-888-588-2700
The Pattern
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
NOTCHES
DOTS
CUTTING LINE
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-
SIZE PATTERNS.
Web Site
http://www.simplicity.com
General Directions
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
Sewing
• SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
SELVAGES
5
12
8 13
11
FOLD
SELVAGES
8
10
FOLD
SELVAGES
10
13
FOLD
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
Trim corners
Clip inner
curves
C,D INTERFACING
USE PIECES 9 12
6 22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
E ROBE
USE PIECES 10 16 17 18
7A 44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
CUT ONE OF PIECE 10
7B 58" 60" (150CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
Notch outer
curves
e
E-mail
info@simplicity.com
Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
16
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
17
★ If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
16
17
SELVAGE
12
SEL.
9
FOLD
SELVAGES
18
10
FOLD
SELVAGE
10
18
18
FOLD
SEL.
Español
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
To Quick Mark:
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• Pin mark dots.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
✻ Mark small
arrows along both
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
a.
CROSSWISE FOLD
✁
b.
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
A,B BLUSAS EN MALLAS EXTENSIBLES SOLAMENTE
A BLUSA USE LAS PIEZAS 1 2 3 4
1 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA /
TODAS LAS TALLAS
B BLUSA USE LAS PIEZAS 1 2 3 6
PIEZA 7 CORTADA EN EL ELÁSTICO
2 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA /
TODAS LAS TALLAS
A,B PANTALÓN USE LA PIEZA 5
3 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA /
TODAS LAS TALLAS
C PIJAMAS USE LAS PIEZAS 5 8 10 11 12 13
CORTE UNA PIEZA 10
4 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA /
TODAS LAS TALLAS
D PIJAMAS USE LAS PIEZAS 8 10 11 12 13 15
CORTE UNA PIEZA 10
5 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA /
TODAS LAS TALLAS
C,D ENTRETELA USE LAS PIEZAS 9 12
6 22" A 25" (55CM A 64CM) ADHESIVA
TODAS LAS TALLAS
E BATA USE LAS PIEZAS 10 16 17 18
7A 44" 45" (115CM) CON PELUSA/
TODAS LAS TALLAS
CORTE UNA PIEZA 10
7B 58" 60" (150CM) CON PELUSA /
TODAS LAS TALLAS
SELVAGE (S) / SEL. (S) = ORILLO(S)
FOLD = DOBLEZ

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3584
Sewing Directions
2
FABRIC
KEY
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
About Knits
Use polyester/cotton thread and ball point needles.
Type Of Knit Fabrics Needle Stitches To
Sizes Inch (2.5cm)
Single Knit—usually lightweight jersey, 9, 11 10 - 12
tricot. Most have 50% stretch.
Double Knit—most often used in polyester 11, 14 10 - 12
pants suits. Many have 18 — 25% stretch.
Sweater Knit—loosely woven. 11, 14 10
Most have 100% stretch.
Swimwear, Power Net Knits— 14, 16 10 - 12
2-way stretch. 100% stretch or more.
Seam allowances are 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise indicated. If you
use a zig-zag machine ... use a
narrow stitch, medium length; trim
seam to 1/4" (6mm) and overcast
edges together by machine. If you
use a straight stitch ... stretch fabric
as you sew (unless working on a
firm double knit) and sew seams 2
or 3 times close together.
NOTE: A roller presser foot, used on double knits, will not stretch the top
layer of fabric and thus keeps seams even. On single knits, it will not
hold tricots and sometimes causes skipped stitches. For sweater knits, it
is a must since yarn loops catch on a regular foot.
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RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
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SIMPLY THE BEST TECHNIQUES FOR
OVERLOCK SERGER
The Serger can be used alone or as a supplement to your conventional
sewing machine as a Fast, Efficient, Functional way to sew these
garments.
CHECK FIT: Because, Overlock sewing stitches, trims and finishes all in
one operation, it is VERY important to Check Fit before stitching seams.
Using matching color thread, baste seams and try garment on. If no
adjustments are needed, overlock seams along basting.
TWO THREAD THREE THREAD FOUR THREAD
W/ SAFETY STITCH
Seams: The three thread overlock is ideal for major seams such
as...shoulder, side, underarm and sleeve seams.
For stress areas such as crotch seams and armholes, the four thread
overlock/safety stitch is best...OR, use a three thread overlock, and
stitch along seam with a conventional machine to reinforce.
Edge Finishes: The two or three thread overlock stitch is a perfect finish
for edges of facings and hems...and a fast, easy Clean Finish for seam
allowances in unlined garments where seams are pressed open.
Rolled Hem: A great, Narrow Hem alternative for finishing circular skirts,
ruffles, shawls and lingerie. See your sewing machine manual for
instructions.
PAJAMA TOP A, B
ROLLED HEM
1. To reinforce center front, stitch along stitching line, being
careful not to stretch fabric as you sew.
Clip to stitching at point of V-neckline, being careful not to clip
through stitching, as shown.
Stitch/Serge front to back at shoulder seams.
2. Fold band in half, lengthwise, with WRONG sides together;
press. Pin.
3. Lap ends of neck band LEFT over RIGHT, or RIGHT over
LEFT, having raw edges even; pin. This is the RIGHT side of
your band.
Machine-baste ends of neck band together along seam line,
through all thicknesses.
Machine-baste ends of neck band through center where
folded edges meet, as shown.
4. With RIGHT sides together, pin band to neck edge, matching
center back, placing small dots at shoulder seams and
lapped ends of band at center front at large dot, having raw
edges even.
Turn garment WRONG side out. Smooth out fullness at point
of “V” and spread clipped edge apart, placing a pin 1”(2.5cm)
each side of clip. Baste along seam line between pins
keeping raw edges even.
With band against the machine and garment toward you,
stitch along seam line and along stitching line on neck edge,
stretching band to fit and pivoting with needle in fabric at
center front, as shown. To reinforce seam, stitch seam again
1/4” (6mm) below first stitching.
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6
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5. Trim seam close to second stitching; clip curves.
Remove basting. Press seam toward garment, pressing band
out.
6. On OUTSIDE, top-stitch garment close to neck seam.
7. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with
center small dot at shoulder seam, matching remaining small
dots.
Stitch. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from first stitching.
Trim seam below notches close to stitching.
Press seam toward sleeve.
8. With RIGHT sides together, pin front to back at entire side
seam, matching armhole seams. Stitch/Serge.
9. FOR VIEW A- Press up hem along lower edge of sleeve.
Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge.
10. FOR VIEW B- Press 5/8" (1.5cm) on lower edge of sleeve to
INSIDE, forming casing. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw
edge. Stitch close to upper edge of casing leaving an opening
to insert elastic.
11. Cut a piece of elastic for each sleeve to fit arm, plus 1"
(2.5cm). Insert elastic through casing; adjust to fit.
Stitch ends of elastic together securely.
Stitch opening closed.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEW A, B
12. Press up hem along lower edge of top.
Stitch OR zig-zag 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge.
FOR VIEW B- If you prefer, hand-sew applique to front of
pajama top, as shown on front of pattern envelope.

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1
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© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
13
STAY-STITCHING
7
PAJAMA TOP C, D
1. Stay-stitch front and back neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut
edge in direction of arrows. This stitching stays in
permanently and helps prevent stretching on curved edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations.
2. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of front extension,
placing straight edge along fold line, having outer edges
even, following manufacturer’s directions. To EDGE FINISH
long unnotched edge and shoulder edge of front
extension...stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, turn under along
stitching and stitch OR zig-zag over the edge OR overlock/
serge over the edge.
3. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on upper edge of pocket.
Turn upper edge to OUTSIDE along fold line, forming facing.
Stitch along seam line on raw edges; trim to 1/4" (6mm).
4. Turn facing to INSIDE, turning under raw edges along
stitching; press.
Stitch facing close to inner edge.
5. FOR VIEW D- To prepare all trim, pin lower long edge of
ribbon over bound edge of pregathered lace trim. Stitch close
to lower edge of ribbon.
6. On OUTSIDE, pin combined trim to pocket placing upper
edge of ribbon along finished edge of pocket, turning under
ends.
Stitch close to both long edges of ribbon.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEW C, D
7. On OUTSIDE, pin pocket to front placing upper corners at
large dots.
Stitch close to side and lower edges.
8. Stitch front to back at shoulder seams.
9. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of collar. Cut
diagonally across corners that will be enclosed with seams.
Fuse interfacing in place, following manufacturer’s directions.
Machine-stitch 5/8" (1.5cm) from notched edge of collar. Clip
notched edge of collar to stitching at small dots.
10. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on raw edge between clips. Trim to
1/4" (6mm). With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to collar,
leaving notched edges open. Trim seam and corners.
Turn collar; press.
11. FOR VIEW C- On OUTSIDE, top-stitch collar 1/4" (6mm)
from finished edges.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEW C, D
12. Clip neck edge of garment to stay-stitching. On OUTSIDE,
pin collar (facing side) to neck edge, matching centers back,
placing small dot at shoulder seam and front end at center
front. Baste both collar and facing sections to front neck edge
as far as small dot. Baste only the collar facing section to
remaining neck edge between small dots.
13. Turn front extension to OUTSIDE along fold line, forming
facing; baste to neck edge. Clip neck edge though all
thicknesses at small dot. Stitch entire neck edge as basted,
being careful not to catch in free edge of collar. Trim seam;
clip curves.
18
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16
2
22
14
21
17
19
1
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3
INNER
LEG
SEAM
14. Turn facing to INSIDE, turning back neck seam toward collar;
press. Baste. To keep facing in place, tack facing to shoulder
seam allowance by tacking it by hand or using a small piece
of fusible web.
15. On OUTSIDE, stitch in the ditch or groove of collar seam
between shoulder seams.
16. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with
center small dot at shoulder seam, matching remaining small
dots.
Stitch. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from first stitching.
Trim seam below notches close to stitching.
Press seam toward sleeve.
17. Stitch front to back at entire underarm seam matching
armhole seams.
18. Press up hem along lower edge of sleeve.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch close to inner pressed edge.
19. FOR VIEW D- On OUTSIDE, pin combined trim to sleeve
placing upper edge of ribbon 1" (2.5cm) above lower edge of
sleeve, turning under and lapping one end at underarm
seam. Stitch close to both long edges of ribbon.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEW C, D
20. Turn facing to OUTSIDE.
Stitch across facing along hem marking.
Trim facing close to stitching.
Trim garment to within 5/8" (1.5cm) of inner edge of facing.
21. Turn facing to INSIDE; press. Press up hem.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch hem in place starting at opening edge.
22. To mark buttonholes in RIGHT or LEFT front place guide
along finished edge of garment, matching centers, as shown.
Transfer buttonhole markings to garment. Make buttonholes
at markings. Lap fronts, matching centers. Sew buttons under
buttonholes.
PAJAMA PANTS A, B, C, D
1. FOR VIEW D-Press up hem.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch close to inner pressed edge.
2. On OUTSIDE, pin upper row of combined trim to front and
back section placing upper edge of ribbon 2-1/2" (6.3cm)
above lower edge. Stitch close to both long edges of ribbon.
Pin lower row of trim to pajama front and back placing upper
edge of ribbon 1-1/4 (3.2cm) above lower edge. Stitch in
same manner.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEW A, B, C, D
3. Stitch inner leg seam of each pant section.

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FUSIBLE WEB MACHINE-BASTING
INWARD CURVE OUTWARD CURVE
Curves
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
8
5
CENTER
BACK
Double Fold
Bias Tape
Ends
CENTER
FRONT
4. With RIGHT sides together, insert one pant leg INSIDE the
other.
5. With RIGHT sides together, pin center seam, matching inner
leg seams and notches. Stitch.
To reinforce seam, stitch again over first stitching. Trim seam
in curved area to 1/4" (6mm). Press remaining seam open.
6. To keep elastic from getting stuck in the seam allowances as
it’s inserted, use fusible web or machine-basting to anchor
them to garment within the casing area.
Be sure to remove basting after casing is finished.
7. Press 1-1/4" (3.2cm) on upper edge to INSIDE, forming
casing. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch close to lower edge of casing, leaving an opening to
insert elastic.
8. Cut a piece of elastic to fit waist, plus 1" (2.5cm).
Insert elastic through casing.
Overlap ends and hold with a safety pin.
Try on garment and adjust to fit.
Stitch ends of elastic together securely.
Stitch opening closed.
Distribute fullness evenly. Remove basting.
TIP-To secure elastic so it won’t twist in wearing, stitch
through all thicknesses of casing in the groove of each seam.
9. HEM A, B, C- Press up hem.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch close to inner pressed edge.
ROBE E
SIMPLY THE BEST DIRECTIONS FOR
APPLYING DOUBLE FOLD BIAS TAPE
The tape comes prefolded, with one side slightly wider than
the other. The wider side is to be used on the WRONG side
of the garment so that when the tape is stitched in place from
the RIGHT side, both edges are sure to be caught in the
stitching.
Curves:
If tape is applied to a curved surface, first, preshape it with a
steam iron.
For an inward curve, stretch the double edges and press; for
an outward curve, stretch the fold edge and press.
Ends:
Turn tape ends under to finish or enclose in the seam when
possible.
When tape completely encloses an edge, arrange to have
ends meet at a seam; then turn both ends under where they
meet and tack together invisibly after stitching on tape.
1
STAY-STITCHING
4
5
7
6
3
2
1. Stay-stitch front and back neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut
edge in direction of arrows.
This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent
stretching on curved edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations.
2. Trim away 1" (2.5cm) from upper edge of pocket section.
Encase upper edge of pocket with double fold trim.
See SIMPLY THE BEST DIRECTIONS FOR APPLYING
DOUBLE FOLD BIAS TAPE.
Stitch along seam line on raw edges; trim to 1/4" (6mm).
3. ON INSIDE, turn under raw edges along stitching; press.
Apply pocket same as for View C, D, see step 8.
Continue same as for View C, D, see step 7.
4. Cut a piece of bias tape, 6" (15cm) long for loops.
On OUTSIDE, edge-stitch both pressed edges of tape.
Cut two pieces, each 3" (7.5cm) long.
Fold tape in half, forming loop. Pin tape to side edge of front
centered over large dot, having raw edges even.
Continue same as for View A, B, 7.
5. Stitch front to back at entire underarm seam, matching
armhole seams.
6. Press up hem.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch close to inner pressed edge.
OR
If you find that your fabric curls at raw edge of hem, zig-zag or
overlock/serge over the edge then stitch hem in place.
7. Encase front and neck edge of robe with double fold bias
tape.
Encase lower edge of each sleeve turning under ends at
underarm seams.
See SIMPLY THE BEST DIRECTIONS FOR APPLYING
DOUBLE FOLD BIAS TAPE.
Cut a piece of tape 56" (143cm) long for tie. Edge-stitch both
pressed edges. Tie ends in a knot. Insert through loops and
tie in a bow when garment is worn.