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THE MAGAZINE AUCTION RESULTS HD €4,750 Robert Goossens for Chanel c. 1983 Lavish necklace consisting of two rows of white baroque pearls holding a chased, pierced gilt metal medallion, ornamented with pâte de verre cabochons imitating sapphires, enhanced with paste imitating brilliants. Signed. 56 GAZETTE DROUOT INTERNATIONAL I N° 23
€82,300 Goossens, jeweller to French couturiers You have to pay for elegance… As shown on 25 January at Drouot with the results (€82,300) achieved by the Paris auction house Gros & Delettrez for some haute couture jewellery whose value depends even more on the quality and originality of the design than on the preciousness of the materials. And where this little game is concerned, the creations of Robert Goossens turn out to be real winners. As you can see from the €22,500 obtained (for a high estimate of €250), by a piece of head jewellery of marine inspiration he dreamed up for Yves Saint Laurent between 1985 and 1989. At the second sale of the Pierre Bergé/Yves Saint Laurent collection in November 2009, a 1990 wheat ear brooch in gilt metal and paste had fetched €16,250. Goossens also created designs in more precious materials. On 18 February 2008, with Debureaux Aponem at Drouot, a covered bowl in silver gilt, rock crystal and coral - a unique piece - shot up to €28,227 (see photo). Returning to in the famous Berger/Saint Laurent sale, a 1990 flaming heart frame dedicated to the couturier raised €12,500. This was in gilt bronze, coral and hardstone. In the sale here, the price of other creations produced for the couturier rocketed skyhigh. €9,000 went to an open cuff bracelet of c. 1984 in pierced gilt metal decorated with metal and mother-ofpearl shells, highlighted with coral branches. This went with a pair of matching earrings. €7,250, an estimate multiplied by over ten, went to a demi-parure of c. 1980 in gilt metal from the "Homage to Braque" collection, including a brooch and earrings featuring doves. Goossens worked for other top couturiers, including one Coco Chanel... Created in around 1983, a necklace consisting of two rows of baroque pearls holding a gilt metal medallion, imitation sapphire pâte de verre and pendants went up to €4,750 (photo 145). Coco played a major role in the jeweller's career after he met Gabrielle Chanel in 1953. AUCTION RESULTS THE MAGAZINE The following year, he contributed to the creation of Mademoiselle's Byzantine style; in fact, she made him one of her accredited suppliers. Initially trained by his father, Goossens learned the art of jewellery in the workshops of the great Paris goldsmiths and jewellers where he was apprenticed. From 1948 onwards, he worked for Max Boi<strong>net</strong>, who created a number of models for top couturiers like Christian Dior and Elsa Schiaparelli. In 1950, Goossens began working directly with Balenciaga. Through Chanel, he developed collaborations with other leading names in fashion, notably the great Yves Saint Laurent. Indubitably, Robert Goossens can be proud to be known as "the jeweller of the French couturiers" - with the bids to prove it! Sylvain Alliod www.goossens-paris.com W Other prices €9,915 Robert Goossens - (Fifties), gold necklace /pendant consisting of six shells linked to two baroque volute branches, central gold mounting set with a rock crystal, four claws inlaid with amethysts, twelve oval-cut amethysts, finishing in a gold baroque pendant ornamented with a piece of emerald-cut smoked quartz. Model of a special commission for the Duchess of Windsor. Paris, 8 July 2010, Lombrail-Teucquam auction house. €3,250 Robert Goossens for Yves Saint Laurent, Haute couture, silvered metal necklace featuring branches of coral set with paste. Unsigned. Paris, 8 October 2012, Cor<strong>net</strong>te de Saint Cyr auction house. €930 Robert Goossens for Chanel, pendant necklace consisting of openwork gilt metal elements, unsigned, c.1960 (similar model in the Duchess of Windsor collection, Sotheby's 1997. Paris, 3 November 2011, Le Brech & Associés auction house. N° 23 I GAZETTE DROUOT INTERNATIONAL 57
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