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International<br />

Perfume Museum<br />

Reop<strong>en</strong>ing October, 18th 2008<br />

A perfume<br />

of mystery<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e<br />

Fr<strong>en</strong>ch Riviera<br />

reveals its secrets .


Perfume possesses a therapeutic, aesthetic,<br />

ritual value.<br />

It is an accessory to seduction or eroticism, a way<br />

to celebrate<br />

the gods, a means of purification. It awak<strong>en</strong>s<br />

the s<strong>en</strong>ses, memory,<br />

and at the same time op<strong>en</strong>s up to the world...<br />

Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong>,<br />

Chief Curator of the museums of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

Reop<strong>en</strong>ing October 18th 2008<br />

Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />

T he world of perfume • www.musees<strong>de</strong>grasse.com


4<br />

6<br />

10<br />

12<br />

30<br />

34<br />

36<br />

37<br />

40<br />

Cont<strong>en</strong>ts<br />

The perfume industry in <strong>Grasse</strong>… a heritage<br />

The history of perfume<br />

Creation of a museum unique in France<br />

The new International Perfume Museum<br />

16<br />

18<br />

20<br />

22<br />

26<br />

The museum in numbers<br />

Its collections and activities<br />

The museum and contemporary art<br />

Artists’ responses to the various spaces<br />

The people behind the project<br />

The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for perfumes, aromas, sc<strong>en</strong>ts and flavours<br />

Outreach association of the International Perfume Museum<br />

Partners of the International Perfume Museum<br />

Visuals available to the press<br />

Practical informations<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 3<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

The perfume industry in <strong>Grasse</strong>… a heritage<br />

4<br />

Roses C<strong>en</strong>tifolia<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Enfleurage glass frame<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Exterior view<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


O ur heritage (…) is the<br />

business we’ve be<strong>en</strong><br />

in for c<strong>en</strong>turies, the<br />

perfume industry, created<br />

right here through<br />

the combination of g<strong>en</strong>erous<br />

Nature and of<br />

m<strong>en</strong> brimming with initiative,<br />

courage and <strong>de</strong>termination.<br />

The perfume industry, born out<br />

of the tanning industry, at first<br />

artisanal and only later industrial,<br />

was able, as the people of<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong> always were in the past,<br />

to get around obstacles, withstand<br />

pressure, change and<br />

adapt to the circumstances of<br />

the times.<br />

As in all past <strong>de</strong>ca<strong>de</strong>s, the last<br />

thirty years were times of profound<br />

changes. The viol<strong>en</strong>t winds<br />

of globalisation might have carried<br />

off everything. The lam<strong>en</strong>ted<br />

near-disappearance of fields of<br />

flowers from <strong>Grasse</strong>’s hillsi<strong>de</strong>s<br />

and the dismantling of the<br />

“jewels” of the local perfume<br />

industry early in the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

(Chiris, Roure, Méro and Boyveau<br />

and others) might have led<br />

one to believe that the industry<br />

was in <strong>de</strong>cline.<br />

But the shift towards aromatic<br />

products, the expansion of the fragrant<br />

compounds business<br />

the extraordinary know-how of<br />

the people of <strong>Grasse</strong> in the area<br />

of natural products, and the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of new branch companies by the<br />

larger companies all <strong>en</strong>abled <strong>Grasse</strong>’s business to make it through these turbul<strong>en</strong>t<br />

economic times. What other area in France – so very small, really – can<br />

today claim the honour and the ability to repres<strong>en</strong>t more than 50% of national<br />

rev<strong>en</strong>ues and betwe<strong>en</strong> 8 and 9% of world rev<strong>en</strong>ues in its field?<br />

We must respect this heritage, which has be<strong>en</strong> an extraordinary bit of good<br />

fortune for the <strong>Grasse</strong> area. And the best way to do that is to reinforce it and<br />

give it a chance to take up the chall<strong>en</strong>ges of the 21st c<strong>en</strong>tury. This is the<br />

significance of the complete re<strong>de</strong>sign of the International Perfume Museum<br />

(IPM), which the City of <strong>Grasse</strong> <strong>en</strong>trusted to the tal<strong>en</strong>ted architect Frédéric<br />

Jung. The new IPM concept abandons the static approach of the museums of<br />

the 1970’s, offering up a site that is as well anchored in our past history as it<br />

is in our future chall<strong>en</strong>ges.<br />

As a g<strong>en</strong>uine resource c<strong>en</strong>tre, it seeks to be the point of converg<strong>en</strong>ce of<br />

everything that happ<strong>en</strong>ed in the past, everything that is happ<strong>en</strong>ing now,<br />

and everything that will happ<strong>en</strong> in the perfume industry, and with that little<br />

known and still mysterious and magical s<strong>en</strong>se of smell. . Perman<strong>en</strong>t and<br />

temporary exhibits, themed and educational tours, various experim<strong>en</strong>ts, a<br />

warm welcome for tourists, meetings of professionals and researchers – all this<br />

is on the ag<strong>en</strong>da of this new IPM, which seeks to be a strong symbolic revitalisation<br />

of our heritage, both material and virtual.<br />

This is also the meaning of the certification of our area as a Competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess<br />

C<strong>en</strong>tre (Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Savours C<strong>en</strong>tre) awar<strong>de</strong>d to us by Mr. Christian<br />

Estrosi, Minister with responsibility for Regional Developm<strong>en</strong>t, in July 2005,<br />

and the concept behind the World Natural Products Observatory. This certification<br />

is not merely a recognition of the excell<strong>en</strong>ce and know-how of our area,<br />

which undoubtedly was too mo<strong>de</strong>st in the past, but most of all a means of<br />

accessing physical and financial resources to put industrial companies, universities,<br />

research labs – public and private – and local communities into synch in<br />

or<strong>de</strong>r to <strong>en</strong>hance the strategic tools that can be used to face the new chall<strong>en</strong>ges.<br />

(...)<br />

In this forward-looking context, the re<strong>de</strong>sign of the IPM is a powerful symbol:<br />

of bringing together the forces and means to live int<strong>en</strong>sely in the pres<strong>en</strong>t and<br />

to approach the future positively out of respect and pri<strong>de</strong> for a dazzling past.<br />

Exterior view - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on Enfleurage glass frame<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

by Jean-Pierre LELEUX, Mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>,<br />

Vice-Presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Conseil G<strong>en</strong>eral <strong>de</strong>s Alpes-Maritimes and Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />

of the Communauté d’Agglomération Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Interior view<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

5<br />

The perfume industry in <strong>Grasse</strong>… a heritage<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

6<br />

B<strong>en</strong>zoin<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

The history of perfume<br />

Pear-shaped bottle - Blown glass - 2nd-3rd c<strong>en</strong>tury - Syrie<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Exterior view MIP<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


P erfumes and their<br />

uses go far back in<br />

time, following the rise<br />

of civilisations<br />

The first objects consi<strong>de</strong>red to<br />

be perfume or cosmetics jars<br />

date to about 7000 BC, in the<br />

Middle East. Elegant and finely<br />

<strong>de</strong>corated, they are undoubtedly<br />

luxury items reserved for an<br />

elite; they can be found throughout<br />

the Mediterranean area.<br />

These civilisations used various<br />

fragrant materials, especially<br />

resins which were wi<strong>de</strong>ly used<br />

beginning around 4000 BC in<br />

ritual fumigation, in c<strong>en</strong>sers or<br />

perfume-burners reserved for<br />

the gods and royal families.<br />

The Egyptians Egyptians knew<br />

techniques for trapping fragrances<br />

in fats and oils, cold<br />

maceration or hot <strong>de</strong>coction,<br />

but were still unaware of distillation.<br />

The products obtained<br />

were far from having the olfactory<br />

power of our perfumes, but<br />

they were imm<strong>en</strong>sely popular.<br />

This art, which still hesitated to<br />

slip into the world of the profane,<br />

disappeared at the <strong>en</strong>d of<br />

the Bronze Age, around 1200<br />

BC. Certain techniques, marked<br />

by this Ori<strong>en</strong>tal tradition,<br />

persisted partly in areas around<br />

the Mediterranean and served<br />

as the basis for the birth of a<br />

new age of perfumes in the<br />

First Mill<strong>en</strong>nium. It was not<br />

until the archaic period (6th<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tury BC) that fragrances<br />

became more <strong>de</strong>mocratic. By that time they were being kept in simpler<br />

containers, like the alabaster aryballos.By th<strong>en</strong> sc<strong>en</strong>t held a dominant place<br />

in the marketplace of the sacred, the therapeutic, cosmetics and cooking, a<br />

place it held throughout the Middle Ages, in every civilisation.<br />

Among the Aztecs, in the Ori<strong>en</strong>t or in Europe, people were composing<br />

mixes with pleasant savours or medicinal virtues. In <strong>Grasse</strong>, raw materials<br />

were wi<strong>de</strong>ly used in the newly emerging perfume industry.<br />

Although natural, raw fragrances were ma<strong>de</strong> from spices, flowers, mineral<br />

and vegetable resins, people were also manufacturing perfumed oils or<br />

waters obtained by <strong>de</strong>cantation, maceration and filtration. The question of perfume<br />

remained closely tied to the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of distillation techniques,<br />

which spread along with the use of the alembic, and alchemy, after translation<br />

of Arab treatises by physicians at the Salerno school in the 12th c<strong>en</strong>tury and<br />

later by its propagation in Andalusia, in the 13th c<strong>en</strong>tury. Inv<strong>en</strong>ted in Salerno<br />

in the 12th c<strong>en</strong>tury, alcohol was used solely for medical purposes up until the<br />

15th c<strong>en</strong>tury. In the 16th c<strong>en</strong>tury, its use in manufacturing perfumes spread<br />

quickly.<br />

The Ori<strong>en</strong>tal civilisations <strong>de</strong>veloped public baths beginning in the 16th c<strong>en</strong>tury.<br />

In Europe, odour marked a social divi<strong>de</strong> until the arrival of the English hygi<strong>en</strong>e<br />

revolution in the 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury. The <strong>de</strong>sire for bodily cleanliness promoted the<br />

<strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of lighter perfumes. At the same time, the perfume maker’s<br />

palette was <strong>en</strong>hanced by new raw materials imported by the British East India<br />

Company. Mortal exhalations, which spread epi<strong>de</strong>mics, were fought by vital perfumes<br />

with curative powers. Progress in chemistry called into question the<br />

use of disinfection by strong sc<strong>en</strong>ts. These sc<strong>en</strong>ts were also utilised in other<br />

parts of the world, whether associated with the gods in China and India, with<br />

inc<strong>en</strong>se sticks, or with the profane world for festive rites, as an olfactory halo<br />

in Africa, or as a refinem<strong>en</strong>t in the Mogul Court.<br />

The Fr<strong>en</strong>ch Revolution ruined perfume makers but did not eliminate the<br />

taste for perfume. After the Terror, people perfumed themselves more than<br />

ever. Industry un<strong>de</strong>rw<strong>en</strong>t a fundam<strong>en</strong>tal change; this was also the great intellectual<br />

and social era in <strong>Grasse</strong>. Burd<strong>en</strong>some taxation quickly led to a <strong>de</strong>cline<br />

in the tanning industry, to the b<strong>en</strong>efit of the perfume industry, which <strong>de</strong>veloped<br />

because of improvem<strong>en</strong>ts in technical processes. Perfumed pastes were joined<br />

by pow<strong>de</strong>rs, soaps and tobacco. .. AT the same time, pleasure – the era’s keyword<br />

– gave rise to a proliferation of little boxes and trinkets associated with the<br />

appearance of new materials, whereas other civilisations continued to use<br />

perfume-burners wh<strong>en</strong> the perfumed materials were solid.<br />

Exterior view - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on Pear-shaped bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – 2nd-3rd c<strong>en</strong>tury –<br />

Blown glass- Syrie © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Exterior view<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 7<br />

The history of perfume<br />

Press kit MIP


The history of perfume<br />

Press kit MIP<br />

8<br />

In Europe, the 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury saw<br />

a change in the very object of<br />

tra<strong>de</strong>, which shifted from<br />

gloves to perfume. The 19th<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tury was witness to a<br />

change in this originally artisanal<br />

activity, which became<br />

powerfully industrial.<br />

During the same period, in<br />

Africa, perfume making was<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tred on the large coastal<br />

cities of Eastern Africa but also<br />

w<strong>en</strong>t into the interior of a mysterious<br />

and primitive “ambiguous<br />

Africa”. Perfumes and preparations<br />

ma<strong>de</strong> from fragrant plants<br />

continued to contribute in many<br />

ways to magical and therapeutic<br />

strategies, in both rural and<br />

urban areas. In the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />

imported bottled perfumes<br />

became increasingly fashionable,<br />

to the point that they were<br />

synonyms with social success,<br />

in large cities and in remote<br />

towns.<br />

Finally, in the West, globalisation<br />

moved hand in hand with<br />

the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of the perfume<br />

industry and created a uniformity<br />

of customs, and a standardisation,<br />

in all the great metropolises.<br />

France played a major<br />

role in this “Grand C<strong>en</strong>tury”<br />

because of the combined and<br />

complem<strong>en</strong>tary efforts of<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong>, the world’s foremost<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tre for natural raw materials<br />

for perfume and their <strong>de</strong>rivatives,<br />

and Paris, the world’s<br />

fashion capital. In this Perfume<br />

City at the start of the c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />

the perfume industry was characterised<br />

by the processing of<br />

natural products and was a virtual world monopoly. At the <strong>en</strong>d of the c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />

while natural products were still a major part of the business of <strong>Grasse</strong>, traditional<br />

local products had become rare. Perfume compounding and food<br />

flavouring were coming to the fore. But the city still claimed the name<br />

Perfume City.<br />

The mo<strong>de</strong>rn perfume industry, created at the <strong>en</strong>d of the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury with the<br />

first uses of synthetic products, <strong>de</strong>veloped g<strong>en</strong>uine creations in the 20th<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tury, based on the discoveries of fragrant products through research in<br />

organic chemistry and combined with irreplaceable natural products resulting<br />

from new technologies. Houbigant and Guerlain were the first to utilise<br />

these synthetic products: Fougère royale in 1884, Jicky in 1889, consi<strong>de</strong>red<br />

the first mo<strong>de</strong>rn perfume, celebrating the adv<strong>en</strong>t of vanilla. They paved the<br />

way for the great creations of the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury. François Coty, the father of the<br />

mo<strong>de</strong>rn perfume industry, a pioneering g<strong>en</strong>ius and industrialist, ma<strong>de</strong> ready<br />

use of the natural “Absolutes” <strong>de</strong>riving from the perfection of the technique for<br />

extracting volatile solv<strong>en</strong>ts, which he paired with new synthetic products. This<br />

technique is still used in creating perfumes, allowing the perfumer to recreate<br />

sc<strong>en</strong>ts that are inextricably associated with him. This <strong>en</strong>ables the bottle<br />

<strong>de</strong>signer to support these perfumes, and ext<strong>en</strong>d the image of a brand to be<br />

repres<strong>en</strong>ted and magnified. After a proliferation of creativity that really had<br />

no price limit, through elite forms of distribution, the second half of the 20th<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tury saw perfume become available to virtually everyone, which led to a<br />

drop in the retail price. More and more new perfumes were launched, with<br />

varying <strong>de</strong>grees of success. The average life span of a product grew shorter.<br />

With but few exceptions, the perfume industry w<strong>en</strong>t from the extraordinary<br />

to the commonplace, and from the hyper-selective to the masses.<br />

Some civilisations have still avoi<strong>de</strong>d globalisation. In Oceania, people rub their<br />

hair and body with plants selected for their fragrance. Asia is still synonymous<br />

with floral offerings, with fresh flowers being omnipres<strong>en</strong>t in everyday life and<br />

religion. Fragrance has powers of seduction and purification. The body practices<br />

associated with perfume are a map for reading social life in the Arab Emirates.<br />

Little by little, sc<strong>en</strong>ts are starting to play a role in China as personality markers,<br />

as is already the case in the West.<br />

Perfume possesses a therapeutic, aesthetic, ritual value. It is an accessory<br />

to seduction or eroticism, a way to celebrate the gods, a means of purification.<br />

It creates a pleasant atmosphere, an incitem<strong>en</strong>t to purchase carefully disp<strong>en</strong>sed<br />

by olfactory marketing. It awak<strong>en</strong>s the s<strong>en</strong>ses and memory while at the same<br />

time op<strong>en</strong>ing up to the world. It is an elem<strong>en</strong>tary instrum<strong>en</strong>t of excell<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

that does nothing to change the way of the world but radically changes its<br />

atmosphere.<br />

by Marie-Christine GRASSE,<br />

Chief Curator of the museums of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Carved and polished alabaster pot – Middle Empire- Egypt<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m


Interior view project - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

9<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

10<br />

Ylang-ylang<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Creation of a museum<br />

unique in the world<br />

Ornam<strong>en</strong>tal ring for perfuming hair – Enamelled silver ––<br />

20th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Morocco - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Formerly Chiris building - <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

© Alain Sabatier


S afeguard a heritage<br />

Since remote Antiquity, the<br />

perfume industry in the broa<strong>de</strong>st<br />

s<strong>en</strong>se of the word has<br />

be<strong>en</strong> one of the most important<br />

social ph<strong>en</strong>om<strong>en</strong>a, in every civilisation,<br />

whatever the social,<br />

political or religious context.<br />

For more than four mill<strong>en</strong>nia,<br />

it has giv<strong>en</strong> birth to millions of<br />

articles ma<strong>de</strong> of the most precious<br />

and most humble materials,<br />

using forms of art from<br />

realism to abstraction.<br />

It has of course led to many private<br />

collections. But until the<br />

International Perfume Museum<br />

op<strong>en</strong>ed, there had never be<strong>en</strong><br />

a <strong>de</strong>sire to create a public institution<br />

<strong>de</strong>voted to safeguarding<br />

this international heritage.<br />

Soap, makeup and cosmetics<br />

are inseparable from what we<br />

un<strong>de</strong>rstand today as the perfume<br />

industry, which is to say,<br />

ess<strong>en</strong>tially, luxury alcoholic<br />

perfume or finished-product.<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong>, cradle of the<br />

perfumery<br />

Obviously such a museum could<br />

only be found in France, where<br />

the contemporary perfume<br />

industry began early in the 20th<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tury, thanks to François Coty<br />

and Coco Chanel, who started<br />

the fashion for perfumes rich in<br />

al<strong>de</strong>hy<strong>de</strong>s.<br />

Over these <strong>de</strong>ca<strong>de</strong>s, <strong>Grasse</strong> has<br />

be<strong>en</strong> able to maintain and continue<br />

to <strong>de</strong>monstrate the excel-<br />

l<strong>en</strong>ce of its production of natural raw materials prepared by ing<strong>en</strong>ious processes,<br />

constantly perfected and utilised by powerful industrial establishm<strong>en</strong>ts.<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong> wanted to be the first to establish an International Perfume Museum.<br />

The city produced the most <strong>de</strong>tailed plan, backed by a t<strong>en</strong>acious collective will to<br />

see it succeed. Beyond the appar<strong>en</strong>t appropriat<strong>en</strong>ess of it, creation of the International<br />

Perfume Museum in <strong>Grasse</strong> is therefore symbolic.<br />

François Carnot, one of the organisers of these so-called Musées C<strong>en</strong>t<strong>en</strong>naux,<br />

was one of the most ard<strong>en</strong>t <strong>de</strong>f<strong>en</strong><strong>de</strong>rs of this i<strong>de</strong>a. He remains an extraordinary<br />

figure in the history of the International Perfume Museum: son of the Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />

of the Republic, he was passionately interested in artistic life.<br />

1918, a first museum<br />

So it was that François Carnot established a private museum in <strong>Grasse</strong> in<br />

1918. He already <strong>en</strong>visioned a section reserved for perfume in all its forms;<br />

beginning in 1921, this section was <strong>en</strong>riched by the g<strong>en</strong>erosity of donors. As<br />

ess<strong>en</strong>tial complem<strong>en</strong>ts to one another, the perfumers of <strong>Grasse</strong> and of<br />

Paris, including the r<strong>en</strong>owned houses of Piver, Pinaud... as well as the Chiris<br />

industrial establishm<strong>en</strong>ts in <strong>Grasse</strong>, helped to establish this museum.<br />

François Carnot rallied the world of perfumery and the <strong>de</strong>corative arts. He<br />

introduced perfumer François Coty to the r<strong>en</strong>owned glassmaker R<strong>en</strong>é<br />

Lalique. Private collectors were no exception. In 1931, Viscountess Savigny <strong>de</strong><br />

Moncorps donated to the <strong>Grasse</strong> museum a major collection of perfume<br />

and cosmetic labels dating from the early 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury, from the old Seillans<br />

(Var) perfumery.<br />

It was not until 1955, with the arrival at the <strong>Grasse</strong> museum of a young curator,<br />

that François Carnot would relaunch this project, but he received no<br />

assistance from the city <strong>de</strong>spite his growing collections.<br />

Inaugurated in January 1989, the year of the bic<strong>en</strong>t<strong>en</strong>nial of the Fr<strong>en</strong>ch perfume<br />

industry, the International Perfume Museum repres<strong>en</strong>ts the living<br />

memory of a profession as well as a unique and powerful aspect of the<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong> id<strong>en</strong>tity : the perfume industry, for which <strong>Grasse</strong> remains the refer<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

point for the <strong>en</strong>tire world.<br />

Since his election as mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong> in 1995 and his re-election in 2001<br />

th<strong>en</strong> in 2008, Jean-Pierre Leleux has worked hard to restore to this region the<br />

reputation it had earned. He is also Presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Communauté d’Agglomération<br />

Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce and Vice-presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Conseil Général <strong>de</strong>s<br />

Alpes-Maritimes.<br />

Exterior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Crystal salts bottle – Circa 1825 - France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 11<br />

Creation of a museum unique in the world<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

Jasmine - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

12<br />

The new International<br />

Perfume Museum (MIP)<br />

Perfume bottle – Blown glass – Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Germany<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on


T<br />

he International<br />

Perfume Museum<br />

expansion and<br />

re<strong>de</strong>sign project was<br />

<strong>en</strong>trusted to architect<br />

Frédéric Jung. The<br />

work, begun in 2006,<br />

will double the<br />

museum’s area.<br />

In an area of just over<br />

3,000 m2, visitors will<br />

discover a completely<br />

olfactory and interactive<br />

museum. Its mission<br />

will be to conserve,<br />

study and pres<strong>en</strong>t the<br />

heritage of one of the<br />

most prestigious of<br />

Fr<strong>en</strong>ch industries: perfumery.<br />

It will be the<br />

world’s first public collection<br />

<strong>de</strong>dicated to this<br />

industry, from anci<strong>en</strong>t<br />

times to the pres<strong>en</strong>t<br />

day, covering five contin<strong>en</strong>ts,<br />

focusing on<br />

three major themes:<br />

seduction, treatm<strong>en</strong>t,<br />

communication.<br />

Perfume bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Germany<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

The expansion and re<strong>de</strong>sign of the International pe<br />

fume Museum inclu<strong>de</strong>s three phases:<br />

• The museum of the civilisations of perfume in the c<strong>en</strong>tre city.<br />

• The evolution of techniques used to make perfume, in the Hydrocarbons hall<br />

of the former Roure plant, a building today classified as a historic monum<strong>en</strong>t.<br />

• The conservatory of perfume plants.<br />

Wh<strong>en</strong> they arrive in October 2008, the first visitors will be charmed by a<br />

townhouse freed from all its past additions and restored to its original appearance,<br />

especially the inner courtyard and faca<strong>de</strong>s, which have be<strong>en</strong> completely<br />

restored.The <strong>en</strong>trance and its vast hall, facing the courtyard, will inclu<strong>de</strong> the<br />

reception/ticket <strong>de</strong>sk, a childr<strong>en</strong>’s reception area, and a restaurant.Visitors will<br />

find it easy to ori<strong>en</strong>t themselves with special signage and information on<br />

curr<strong>en</strong>t ev<strong>en</strong>ts in the museum.<br />

New rooms in the re<strong>de</strong>signed museum:<br />

• An air-conditioned, secure and perfectly lit temporary exhibition room.<br />

An 80-seat confer<strong>en</strong>ce room.<br />

• A restaurant looking out on the gard<strong>en</strong>.<br />

• Two educational rooms for school ev<strong>en</strong>ts.<br />

• Two ev<strong>en</strong>ts rooms for adult workshops.<br />

• A reception room for childr<strong>en</strong>.<br />

Frédéric Jung, winning architect<br />

Architect Frédéric Jung, who won the competition for the International Perfume<br />

Museum, created a <strong>de</strong>sign that took in the Morel-Amic building, which is the<br />

curr<strong>en</strong>t Pélissier building and museum. A 1981 graduate of the Ecole Nationale<br />

Supérieure <strong>de</strong>s Arts et Industries of Strasbourg, he completed his training in<br />

the United States at the UCLA School of Architecture in 1983. After his stays<br />

abroad, he returned to France in 1985 and worked for various architectural<br />

firms before setting up his own in 1992. In 2000, Jung Architectures Eurl was<br />

established. He participates actively in special ev<strong>en</strong>ts and gives lectures. He also<br />

teaches at the Ecole Nationale <strong>de</strong>s Ponts et Chaussées in Marne la Vallée<br />

and is on the boards of examiners of the most prestigious architecture schools<br />

like Lille, Paris, R<strong>en</strong>nes and Strasbourg.<br />

He has won several competitions, and many trophies have be<strong>en</strong> awar<strong>de</strong>d him :<br />

• 2004 National Rehabilitation Trophy (Musée Oberlin)<br />

• Winner of the 2004 Architecture and Urban Developm<strong>en</strong>t in Alsace Award (Musée Oberlin)<br />

• Nominated for the “European museum of the year award 2004” (Musée Oberlin)<br />

• 2003 Regional Rehabilitation Trophy (Musée Oberlin)<br />

• Nominated for the "2001 Silver Square” (BETC corporate headquarters)<br />

• Winner of the MIPIM Award 2001 (BETC corporate headquarters)<br />

Exterior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Golli Wogg perfume bottle <strong>de</strong>tail- Vigny Verre<br />

1920-France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 13<br />

The new International Perfume Museum<br />

Press kit MIP


The new International Perfume Museum<br />

Press kit MIP<br />

Reconciling the old<br />

and the new<br />

As a man with practical experi<strong>en</strong>ce,<br />

Frédéric Jung excels at<br />

many types of architectural<br />

<strong>de</strong>sign: homes, offices, urban<br />

planning... For the International<br />

Perfume Museum, he managed<br />

to reconcile the old with the<br />

new to create a very elegant<br />

new concept.<br />

He reconfigured an 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

townhouse, the Hôtel Pontevès,<br />

and brought it into harmony<br />

with a mo<strong>de</strong>rn building.<br />

The primary objective of this<br />

r<strong>en</strong>ovation and expansion work<br />

was to exploit the museum in<br />

terms of exhibition of its collections<br />

and of conditions of<br />

conservation and security and<br />

its services to the public.<br />

The museum has to maintain its<br />

international stature whilst not<br />

losing its soul. This means pres<strong>en</strong>ting<br />

in all its spl<strong>en</strong>dour this<br />

unique Fr<strong>en</strong>ch and international<br />

public collection <strong>de</strong>voted<br />

to the perfume industry while<br />

promoting a warm and convivial<br />

dim<strong>en</strong>sion to create a<br />

place of relaxation as well as<br />

research, op<strong>en</strong> to all.<br />

The perman<strong>en</strong>t exhibition of its<br />

collections is <strong>en</strong>hanced by satellites:<br />

confer<strong>en</strong>ce rooms, temporary<br />

exhibits, the Osmotheque,<br />

docum<strong>en</strong>tation c<strong>en</strong>tre, news<br />

kiosk, educational workshops for childr<strong>en</strong> and adults, etc.<br />

Architecturally, this proposal is for a complex <strong>de</strong>sign realised within a multibuilding,<br />

marked by the city’s history and its subsequ<strong>en</strong>t additions.<br />

Situated next a hill right un<strong>de</strong>r a break in the topography, on the edge of the<br />

fortified old city, the museum needs to take advantage of this spatial and<br />

historical wealth. At the same time, it achieves a strong museographical layout.<br />

The fundam<strong>en</strong>tal chall<strong>en</strong>ge in this reorganisation is to bring together 3,000<br />

m2 distributed among five buildings and sev<strong>en</strong> levels.<br />

Four symbolic places in <strong>Grasse</strong>’s history :<br />

• The <strong>en</strong>try pavilion of the former Hugues-Aîné perfume works built in the<br />

19th c<strong>en</strong>tury as well as the vestiges of the cold Dominican monastery<br />

built in the 14th c<strong>en</strong>tury, next to the city wall dating from the same period.<br />

The block’s courtyard is giv<strong>en</strong> a major overhaul by exposure of the fortification<br />

through an op<strong>en</strong>ing that frees up the exhibition floors and circulation<br />

routes. The axis of the fortification is picked up and protected by a glass<br />

nave. It emphasises the museum’s contemporary aspect from Boulevard<br />

Fragonard and the Cours Honoré Cresp roundabout while remaining set<br />

back from the Hôtel Pontevès Morel-Amic.<br />

• The main courtyard of the Hôtel Pontevès now provi<strong>de</strong>s public access.<br />

Enliv<strong>en</strong>ed by the pres<strong>en</strong>ce of the main reception area, it connects the two<br />

buildings that face each other. One, the old annex, ext<strong>en</strong><strong>de</strong>d to the ground<br />

floor to house the hall, will give access to the collections and to the<br />

ev<strong>en</strong>ts area.<br />

The other, the Hôtel Pontevès, houses part of the perman<strong>en</strong>t collections,<br />

museum conservation and the docum<strong>en</strong>tation c<strong>en</strong>tre.<br />

• The old Pélissier building has be<strong>en</strong> rebuilt while keeping its cellars for the<br />

temporary exhibitions and logistics above, and two sections of collections<br />

below. It fits completely within the profile of the curr<strong>en</strong>t building on<br />

Rue <strong>de</strong>s Augustins.<br />

• The gard<strong>en</strong>s and terraces of the various levels in the former courtyards<br />

punctuate the visitor’s route, <strong>de</strong>aling with plant themes associated with differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />

eras through contemporary art.<br />

Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Bottle perfume - Glass – 17th c<strong>en</strong>tury – Bristol/England<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Poman<strong>de</strong>r – Lapis-lazuli and silver gilt – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

14<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m


Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 15<br />

Dossier <strong>de</strong> presse MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

16<br />

Orange blossom<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

The museum in numbers<br />

Inc<strong>en</strong>se burner – Qing Dynasty (late) – Cast bronze,<br />

<strong>en</strong>graved – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury - China - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Hôtel Pontevès<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


Construction:<br />

L<strong>en</strong>gth of time:<br />

4 years<br />

Target cost :<br />

11 300 000 euros<br />

Initial funding:<br />

City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

2 615 000 €<br />

Communauté d’agglomération<br />

Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

2 350 000 €<br />

DRAC (State)<br />

2 470 000 €<br />

Conseil Général <strong>de</strong>s Alpes-Maritimes<br />

2 005 000 €<br />

Conseil Régional PACA<br />

2 860 000 €<br />

Technical<br />

characteristics<br />

Area of the new museum:<br />

3,500 m2<br />

5,000 m2 of floor area<br />

1,200 m3 of concrete<br />

1 crane<br />

130 tonnes of steel<br />

50 jobs/month average<br />

The<br />

museum’s<br />

collection<br />

is composed<br />

of 50,000<br />

items.<br />

Still and batteuse - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Spray Nuit <strong>de</strong> Chine – Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine, Paul Poiret, Salts bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – Crystal and silver<br />

circa 1924 - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Middle 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 17<br />

The museum in numbers<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

18<br />

Figurine perfume bottle –Porcelain<br />

18th c<strong>en</strong>tury – Chelsea/England<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Its collections and activities<br />

Bergamot box – Bergamot bark, painted and<br />

glazed paper – 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Perfume bottle Ramsès II for Bichara – Glass<br />

1928 - France© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


T<br />

he International Perfume<br />

Museum is <strong>de</strong>voted<br />

to the history of<br />

perfume and the evolution<br />

of its techniques<br />

through the c<strong>en</strong>turies. It<br />

features objects repres<strong>en</strong>ting<br />

the <strong>de</strong>corative<br />

arts, botany, industry,<br />

ethnography and sociology,<br />

ranging from the<br />

masterpiece to the everyday.<br />

All disciplines are<br />

applied to our topic,<br />

<strong>en</strong>hancing it and complem<strong>en</strong>ting<br />

it by offering<br />

a variety of views. This<br />

21st c<strong>en</strong>tury museum<br />

looks at the past as well<br />

as at the pres<strong>en</strong>t, and<br />

ev<strong>en</strong> the future, if we<br />

consi<strong>de</strong>r the section on<br />

the era of globalisation,<br />

marketing and communication,<br />

and new markets.<br />

Through extraordinary collections,<br />

it traces the history of<br />

perfumes as well as of soaps,<br />

makeup and cosmetics over the<br />

last four thousand years. As<br />

both a memory of and partner<br />

to the perfume industry, this<br />

museum reveals all the stages<br />

in the creation of a perfume,<br />

from the harvesting and proces-<br />

Interior view MIP © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

sing of the raw materials to the launch of the finished product.<br />

More than 50,000 objects make up the museum’s collection, with flasks<br />

from Egypt, Greece and Rome and all five contin<strong>en</strong>ts, including Marie Antoinette’s<br />

famous “nécessaire”, which served as <strong>Grasse</strong>’s ambassador during<br />

this construction period while on exhibit at Versailles, in Japan, Australia<br />

and Brazil.<br />

In addition to the classic activities of a museum, it conceives and stages<br />

free olfactory ev<strong>en</strong>ts for a wi<strong>de</strong> variety of audi<strong>en</strong>ces: school childr<strong>en</strong> (some<br />

5,000 a year), perfume professionals, tourists, stud<strong>en</strong>ts, etc.<br />

Lectures on perfume, the perfume industry and all their associated topics are<br />

frequ<strong>en</strong>tly held for the edification of all. Perfumery, which is not just an<br />

industry or a sci<strong>en</strong>ce but also an art, brings together some very differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />

players: creators of perfumes, perfume bottles, packaging makers, as well<br />

as raw materials producers, glassmakers, etc. Constantly seeking to <strong>en</strong>rich<br />

its collections, the International Perfume Museum has consi<strong>de</strong>rably expan<strong>de</strong>d<br />

its activities: themed exhibits, school and extramural ev<strong>en</strong>ts, involvem<strong>en</strong>t<br />

in annual national ev<strong>en</strong>ts, participation in tra<strong>de</strong> shows.<br />

The docum<strong>en</strong>tation c<strong>en</strong>tre/library will be expan<strong>de</strong>d and ma<strong>de</strong> more easily<br />

accessible to researchers.<br />

At the same time, the museum team, in cooperation<br />

with the architect and the museographers, is creating<br />

various forms of outreach media:<br />

• A database of all collections relating to the perfume industry in all Fr<strong>en</strong>ch<br />

museums.<br />

• A database of the IPM’s collections.<br />

• A database of the museum’s <strong>en</strong>tire collection of perfume labels.<br />

The various texts that will appear in the museum (flyers, posters....).<br />

• Synopses for the various vi<strong>de</strong>os and audio gui<strong>de</strong>s.<br />

• The texts and photographs for the inaugural catalogue, prepared by<br />

specialists in each historical period treated.<br />

• Update of the museum's Internet site.<br />

• The final selection of the objects displayed, <strong>de</strong>termining the museography.<br />

Poman<strong>de</strong>r <strong>de</strong>tail - Lapis-lazuli and silver gilt – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Interior view Hôtel Ponteves<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 19<br />

its collections and activities<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

20<br />

The museum and contemporary art<br />

Tonka beans<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Pocket nécessaire – Metal, bronze, leather, ivory<br />

Late 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Exterior view MIP<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


A s part of this<br />

expansion, the<br />

museum is calling on<br />

artists to furnish certain<br />

indoor and outdoor<br />

spaces. In fact, in<br />

concert with its Sci<strong>en</strong>tific<br />

and Cultural Project,<br />

the museum is<br />

setting up a complem<strong>en</strong>tary<br />

approach in<br />

tan<strong>de</strong>m with the main<br />

visitors’ route that will<br />

op<strong>en</strong> up the discussion<br />

to an artistic view of<br />

the world of perfume.<br />

This will both question and<br />

move the visitor as well as providing<br />

answers, in or<strong>de</strong>r to<br />

make a visit here a multis<strong>en</strong>sory<br />

experi<strong>en</strong>ce.<br />

The various viewpoints of the<br />

chemist, the aromatician, the<br />

manufacturer, the <strong>de</strong>signer, the<br />

perfume maker, the historian<br />

and the artist can only serve to<br />

<strong>en</strong>rich the overall view of the<br />

various facets of the perfume<br />

industry. The works created will<br />

form an overview of contemporary<br />

art within the museum,<br />

associated with topics from the<br />

world of perfumery: the poetry<br />

of the raw plant materials, smell<br />

and the awak<strong>en</strong>ing of the<br />

s<strong>en</strong>ses, luxury and <strong>de</strong>sign,<br />

glasswork and transpar<strong>en</strong>cy, industry and its materials... At the same time,<br />

the museum will be pres<strong>en</strong>ting scheduled ev<strong>en</strong>ts associated with contemporary<br />

art: temporary exhibits, installations, performances, live shows, lectures pres<strong>en</strong>ting<br />

the work of certain artists associated with perfume.<br />

The International Perfume Museum will call upon local, national and international<br />

artists with differing and complem<strong>en</strong>tary approaches in or<strong>de</strong>r to offer<br />

the public creations that provi<strong>de</strong> a diversified view of the world of perfume. In this<br />

regard it relies on the advice and cooperation of professionals in the contemporary<br />

art world: CNAC-Villa Arson (Nice), FRAC Prov<strong>en</strong>ce-Alpes-Côte d’Azur<br />

(Marseille), Gass<strong>en</strong>di Museum (Digne), Museum of Mo<strong>de</strong>rn and Contemporary<br />

Art (Nice), CIRVA (Marseille).<br />

By featuring a contemporary art approach, the museum joins the regional<br />

contemporary art circuit of the Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce C<strong>en</strong>tre township committee<br />

(Concrete Art Space in Mouans-Sartoux, Museum of Art and History in <strong>Grasse</strong>),<br />

and more broadly that of the Côte d’Azur, with, among others, MAMAC and<br />

Villa Arson in Nice, the Maeght Foundation in à Saint-Paul, and the various<br />

museums <strong>de</strong>voted to a single artist like Chagall and Matisse in Nice, Picasso in<br />

Antibes and Vallauris, Léger in Biot, Cocteau in M<strong>en</strong>ton, as well as the various<br />

galleries throughout the region.<br />

At the same time, the museum is pursuing a policy of<br />

contemporary creation, with three focuses:<br />

• Launch of a collection of artist’s perfume bottles.<br />

• Prototype <strong>de</strong>sign of functional objects associated with perfume by <strong>de</strong>signers<br />

with pres<strong>en</strong>tation of the creation process and the various stages (<strong>de</strong>sign,<br />

mo<strong>de</strong>l, resin, plaster, glass).<br />

• Regular sc<strong>en</strong>t creation by the ISIPCA perfume makers’ school.<br />

Some artists for temporary exhibits<br />

Isa BARBIER - Michel BLAZY - Clém<strong>en</strong>t BORDERIE - Marie BOVO - James Lee BYARS -<br />

Dale CHIHULY - Gérard COLLIN-THIEBAUT - Claudine DRAY - Marie-Ange GUILLEMINOT -<br />

Fabrice HYBERT - PIERRE & GILLES - Bettina RHEIMS - Claire ROUDENKO-BERTIN -<br />

Jana STERBAK - Gérard TRAQUANDI - Felice VARINI.<br />

Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Pocket nécessaire <strong>de</strong>tail – Metal, bronze, leather, ivory – Late<br />

18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Interior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 21<br />

The museum and contemporary art<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

22<br />

Concrete<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Artists’ responses to the<br />

various spaces<br />

Pear-shaped bottle – Opaline – Circa 1840 – France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Vinaigrette gold<strong>en</strong> work “guilloché”– Circa 1830<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


S mall paved terrace<br />

(View of the Estérel)<br />

For this space, artist Peter<br />

Downsbrough offers a work on<br />

<strong>en</strong>hancem<strong>en</strong>t of the landscape<br />

and on the concept of viewpoint.<br />

The goal here is to see<br />

the landscape differ<strong>en</strong>tly and<br />

provi<strong>de</strong> another focus, both<br />

directly on the terrace and by<br />

playing on the bay window<br />

using a graphic <strong>de</strong>sign that<br />

works on the terrace. His work<br />

will be minimal and subtle.<br />

Peter Downsbrough’s installations<br />

play on the parameters of<br />

the space where they are produced,<br />

whether the real space<br />

of architecture and the city, of<br />

the exhibition space, or space<br />

in a book: the surfaces of walls,<br />

floors, ceilings, sometimes windows,<br />

and the surfaces of<br />

covers and <strong>page</strong>s are all opportunities<br />

for him to question the<br />

evid<strong>en</strong>ce of the words writt<strong>en</strong><br />

there. Vertical, horizontal,<br />

oblique, the cut, land and frontier<br />

are his preferred tools.<br />

The 18th and 19th<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong><br />

The 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong><br />

is an 800 m2 geometric gard<strong>en</strong>.<br />

It dates from 1779 and was<br />

done over in 1976. Its composition<br />

elem<strong>en</strong>ts are very interesting:<br />

gate, geometric bed of pruned<br />

boxwood, small circular<br />

pool, arbour of old roses, orange trees...<br />

By op<strong>en</strong>ing out onto the city, the 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong> serves as a<br />

window for the museum. This provi<strong>de</strong>s a hook for the pot<strong>en</strong>tial public on one<br />

of the themes associated with perfume. The strategic c<strong>en</strong>tral fountain hosts<br />

the outdoor work of Jean-Michel Othoniel, a work on glass linked to the fountain’s<br />

water, symbolically recalling nectar and perfume bottle, nature and culture.<br />

The work takes into account the existing constraints (water feature, trees and<br />

plants, the faça<strong>de</strong> of the Hôtel Pontévès), and evokes the 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury, which<br />

prece<strong>de</strong>s the gard<strong>en</strong>, with a sparkling, light, precious, dynamic and refined si<strong>de</strong>.<br />

J-M Othoniel uses blown glass as a multicoloured palette to nourish an opul<strong>en</strong>t<br />

and baroque work, as the glass becomes playful, lively, erotic.<br />

At the same time, the gard<strong>en</strong> introduces into the museum visit the industrial<br />

evolution of the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury by pres<strong>en</strong>ting the aromatic plants that ma<strong>de</strong><br />

Grass famous: roses and jasmine. It is important to herald the industrial<br />

era with a strong elem<strong>en</strong>t, to counterbalance the frivolity of the previous<br />

period. Dominique Thév<strong>en</strong>in, a sculptor of movem<strong>en</strong>t, has created a work on<br />

the industrial heritage and its materials. He creates works out of rough,<br />

cru<strong>de</strong>, ess<strong>en</strong>tial metal. Cylindrical masses balance each other along a mysterious<br />

axis, th<strong>en</strong> come to life with the slightest breath of air, leading to a<br />

visual <strong>de</strong>stabilisation in the spectator.<br />

The prints room<br />

Sequ<strong>en</strong>ce 3 of the International Perfume Museum features mechanisation,<br />

industrialisation and mass production, characteristic of the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />

for perfume bottles, perfume, and labels. At the same time, a space <strong>de</strong>dicated<br />

to the m<strong>en</strong> working in these factories, the “blue collars” and “white collars”,<br />

introduces the lifestyles and working conditions of <strong>Grasse</strong>’s factories.<br />

The artist’s response shows both the sociological si<strong>de</strong> of workers in perfume<br />

factories as well as mass production. A major collection of perfume labels (or<br />

photographs, sketches) contributes to the creation of the two-dim<strong>en</strong>sional<br />

work on the wall.<br />

This interior work by Gérard Collin-Thiebaut will help the visitor to un<strong>de</strong>rstand<br />

industrialisation. “All my work is linked to the same <strong>de</strong>sire, that of addressing<br />

passersby, whoever they may be, to seek them out wherever they are, wh<strong>en</strong><br />

they’re least expecting it, and to be with them in their everyday life.”<br />

Interior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Pear-shaped bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – Opaline – Circa 1840 – France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 23<br />

Artists’ responses to the various spaces<br />

Press kit MIP


Artists’ responses to the various spaces<br />

Press kit MIP<br />

24<br />

The Head Space<br />

terrace<br />

In his constant search for new<br />

fragrances, ever since the very<br />

first fragrant mixes, man has<br />

never ceased expanding his<br />

olfactory palette. At the <strong>en</strong>d of<br />

the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury, after the<br />

<strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of synthetic chemistry,<br />

new molecules appeared.<br />

In the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury, joined<br />

by new technologies like gas<br />

chromatography or Head<br />

Space, the world of sc<strong>en</strong>ts<br />

expan<strong>de</strong>d.<br />

In the perfume industry, gas<br />

chromatography makes it possible<br />

to analyse the composition<br />

of a mixture. Head-space as<br />

used in the perfume industry is<br />

a technology for trapping<br />

odours that appeared at the<br />

<strong>en</strong>d of the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury. It is little<br />

known, perhaps ev<strong>en</strong> completely<br />

unknown, to the g<strong>en</strong>eral<br />

public. This technique, which<br />

can be applied anywhere,<br />

consists of passing a gas curr<strong>en</strong>t<br />

over a plant, flower, fruit,<br />

etc., or to bring aromatic substances<br />

into a high vacuum to<br />

trap them in an absorb<strong>en</strong>t layer.<br />

The trapped substances are<br />

analysed and id<strong>en</strong>tified by chromatography<br />

and mass spectrometry<br />

in the laboratory, th<strong>en</strong><br />

recomposed in or<strong>de</strong>r to reproduce the aroma of the flower or fruit analysed.<br />

The artistic approach of Berdaguer & Pejus explores and explains the technical<br />

process, its materials, and the olfactory result obtained. This outdoor<br />

work makes use of all the s<strong>en</strong>ses and will be v<strong>en</strong>tilated to give the greatest<br />

scale to the space.<br />

By putting architecture at the service of art, after having first stripped it<br />

of certain elem<strong>en</strong>ts like functionality, Berdaguer & Pejus have managed to<br />

introduce it into their field of research. In this way their work <strong>de</strong>als with<br />

habitat, behaviour, custom, the relationship betwe<strong>en</strong> thought and reality, or<br />

the failure of Utopia.<br />

The Eternal Gard<strong>en</strong><br />

The Eternal Gard<strong>en</strong> is the counterpart of the 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong>. It<br />

offers, simultaneously, an op<strong>en</strong>ing towards the future and a contemporary<br />

synthesis of the various activities that coexist in the perfume industry.<br />

In or<strong>de</strong>r to recall the rhythm of the 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong>, the courtyard<br />

is constructed around a pool by artist Brigitte Nahon on the theme of perfume<br />

bottle materials (glass). The work and its treatm<strong>en</strong>t of the ground and the wall will<br />

play on the complem<strong>en</strong>tary nature of the various mineral materials.<br />

Brigitte Nahon is one of the young artists emerging in the world artistic sc<strong>en</strong>e, as<br />

witness the constantly growing interest of international museums and institutions<br />

in her work.<br />

Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Golli Wogg perfume bottle - Vigny Verre – 1920-France<br />

Vinaigrette – Gold and lapis-lazuli – Circa 1820<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m


Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 25<br />

Dossier <strong>de</strong> presse MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

26<br />

Cinnamon<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

The people behind<br />

the project<br />

P<strong>en</strong>dant salts flask – Porcelain – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Exterior view – Exit - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />

©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on


J ean-Pierre Leleux<br />

Mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>, Vice-Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />

of the Conseil Général<br />

<strong>de</strong>s Alpes-Maritimes, Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />

of the Communauté d’Agglomération<br />

Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce.<br />

Jean-Pierre Leleux Leleux was<br />

born in Gh<strong>en</strong>t, Belgium.<br />

In April 1952 his par<strong>en</strong>ts settled<br />

in <strong>Grasse</strong>, in the Saint-<br />

Jacques area, where the May<br />

harvest of jasmine and roses<br />

marked the seasons.<br />

He participated actively in local<br />

organisations and politics. As a<br />

member and later presid<strong>en</strong>t of<br />

the <strong>Grasse</strong> Youth Chamber of<br />

Commerce, he took a passionate<br />

interest in all local topics<br />

and contributed to <strong>de</strong>liberations<br />

on the future of the <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

community (creation of a perfume<br />

museum, launch of an<br />

association forum, childr<strong>en</strong>’s<br />

arts festival, creating pe<strong>de</strong>strian<br />

zones, city ev<strong>en</strong>ts, and<br />

many other projects). All of<br />

these issues tak<strong>en</strong> up by the<br />

YCC and the extra-municipal<br />

committees ma<strong>de</strong> him very<br />

familiar with the difficulties as<br />

well as the expectations of citiz<strong>en</strong><br />

involvem<strong>en</strong>t and politics.<br />

In 1983 he was elected to the<br />

city council and was <strong>de</strong>legated<br />

powers in the area of culture,<br />

tourism and city ev<strong>en</strong>ts, alongsi<strong>de</strong><br />

Mr Francis Huré, former<br />

ambassador and <strong>de</strong>puty mayor.<br />

He was elected presid<strong>en</strong>t of the<br />

Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong> Fe<strong>de</strong>ration of Tourism <strong>Office</strong>s, which he later turned into the <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

Tourism C<strong>en</strong>tre.<br />

In a by-election in 1987 he was elected Deputy Mayor and was appointed to<br />

oversee the city police, traffic and transport.<br />

In 1989, Jean-Pierre Leleux was elected as member of the G<strong>en</strong>eral Council<br />

and second <strong>de</strong>puty to the mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>. He was re-elected to the G<strong>en</strong>eral<br />

Council in 1992 and was ma<strong>de</strong> chairman of the culture committee and<br />

presid<strong>en</strong>t of the ADEM (Departm<strong>en</strong>tal Music and Dance Delegation). In 1995<br />

he was elected in the municipal elections.<br />

In 1998 he had to give up his seat on the G<strong>en</strong>eral Council but won it back<br />

in <strong>Grasse</strong> North in 2004.<br />

Re-elected mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong> in 2001 th<strong>en</strong> in 2008, he is presid<strong>en</strong>t of the<br />

Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce C<strong>en</strong>tre township committee, created in January 2002, which<br />

<strong>en</strong>compasses the towns of <strong>Grasse</strong>, Auribeau, Pégomas, La Roquette sur<br />

Siagne and Mouans-Sartoux.<br />

He is also presid<strong>en</strong>t of the <strong>Grasse</strong> Hospital C<strong>en</strong>tre, presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Association<br />

of Elected Officials of the Napoleon Route, presid<strong>en</strong>t of SYMEP (Association<br />

of Studies and Planning for preparation of the SCOT). He is also<br />

presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Film Commission, which <strong>en</strong>courages the making of films<br />

on the Côte d’Azur.<br />

In 2004, he was re-elected to the G<strong>en</strong>eral Council, of which he is the Vice-<br />

Presid<strong>en</strong>t, alongsi<strong>de</strong> Christian Estrosi.<br />

Dominique Bourret<br />

Deputy Mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>, Youth & Cultural Affairs Delegate, Vice-Presid<strong>en</strong>te<br />

for the Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce.<br />

Involved in the city governm<strong>en</strong>t of <strong>Grasse</strong> since 1987, Dr. Dominique Bourret<br />

is a well-known figure in <strong>Grasse</strong>.<br />

As the <strong>de</strong>puty responsible for culture un<strong>de</strong>r <strong>Grasse</strong>’s Mayor Jean-Pierre<br />

Leleux Maire since 1995, she has progressively str<strong>en</strong>gth<strong>en</strong>ed synergies and<br />

thus improved the consist<strong>en</strong>cy of the city’s overall cultural efforts. She participates<br />

in formulating and implem<strong>en</strong>ting the city’s cultural policies. She<br />

serves as liaison and coordinator for the city’s cultural <strong>de</strong>partm<strong>en</strong>ts and<br />

subsidised cultural institutions. Dominique Bourret contributes to organising<br />

cultural ev<strong>en</strong>ts and coordinates them.<br />

Since the IPM op<strong>en</strong>ed in 1989, she has supported the expansion project<br />

to <strong>en</strong>able the greatest possible use of its remarkable resources and to<br />

thereby contribute to promoting international cultural tourism and the growth<br />

of an extraordinary industry in the midst of a comeback.<br />

Roman lamp shaped room sc<strong>en</strong>ter – Gold<strong>en</strong> bronze<br />

19th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Universal bottle, Lalique – Glass and black lights<br />

Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 27<br />

The people behind the project<br />

Press kit MIP


The people behind the project<br />

Press kit MIP<br />

28<br />

Marie-Christine<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong><br />

Chief Curator of the museums<br />

of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong>, ,<br />

curator of the museums of the<br />

City of <strong>Grasse</strong>, is responsible<br />

for the International Perfume<br />

Museum, the Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

Museum of Art and History, and<br />

the Fragonard Villa-Museum.<br />

She came to <strong>Grasse</strong> in 1990 to<br />

take charge first of the Perfume<br />

Museum.<br />

Her role is to formulate policy<br />

for these three city museums,<br />

provi<strong>de</strong> sci<strong>en</strong>tific, accounting,<br />

administrative and personnel<br />

managem<strong>en</strong>t for the 40 people<br />

who work with her.<br />

A dynamic woman well known<br />

in the perfume industry on the<br />

supplier and brand si<strong>de</strong>, she<br />

maintains special relationships<br />

with associations and institutional<br />

partners.<br />

With a doctorate in art history<br />

and archaeology and Medieval<br />

civilisation, she teaches at the<br />

National Heritage Institute<br />

(INP) in Paris in lifelong learning.<br />

Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong> is also<br />

in charge of archaeological<br />

excavation sites. She has writt<strong>en</strong><br />

several works since 1985;<br />

many of her works <strong>de</strong>al with<br />

Star anis - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

the perfume industry and its most positive aspects. Her book One of the<br />

S<strong>en</strong>ses, published in 2001 by editions Milan, traces the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of perfume<br />

and brand names in the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury. Her latest publication on<br />

perfume, in 2003, explores the many facets of Egypt.<br />

Her best sellers inclu<strong>de</strong>:<br />

• 18th C<strong>en</strong>tury Perfumes and Perfume Bottles<br />

• Jasmine, <strong>Grasse</strong>’s Flower<br />

• <strong>Grasse</strong> in Pictures<br />

• Vanillas and Orchids<br />

• Perfumes of Europe<br />

• Living in Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

She is a woman of character who introduces us to the treasures of our heritage<br />

in France and abroad. With the confer<strong>en</strong>ces she arranges, the International<br />

Perfume Museum contributes to the advancem<strong>en</strong>t of research: Evanesc<strong>en</strong>ces,<br />

Fragrances, from <strong>de</strong>sire to pleasure, Olfaction and heritage: how<br />

are they transmitted?, One day, one plant: the Iris, Marketing in question?,<br />

One day, one plant : the Tuberose, One day, one plant: the Bitter Orange,<br />

One day, one plant : the Mimosa (September 2008).<br />

Promoting a forward-looking attitu<strong>de</strong> of discovery is in fact the constant<br />

concern of the International Perfume Museum. Linked to one of the most<br />

prestigious traditional Fr<strong>en</strong>ch industries, it greets visitors and resid<strong>en</strong>ts<br />

alike as a “conservatory of objects that are g<strong>en</strong>uine direct witnesses to<br />

culture and history, the place where they are put on display to meet the<br />

public.”<br />

Likewise, facilitating the link betwe<strong>en</strong> sci<strong>en</strong>ce and society, especially by disseminating<br />

the results of research and by interacting with many differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />

players is one of the major objectives of the sci<strong>en</strong>tific organisers of these<br />

confer<strong>en</strong>ces. These complem<strong>en</strong>tary partners participate in making sci<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

and technology accessible and in providing local lea<strong>de</strong>rship.<br />

Pear-shaped spray bottle – Metal and moul<strong>de</strong>d glass – First<br />

half of 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Lekhythos – Terracotta – Attic - Grece<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 29<br />

Dossier <strong>de</strong> presse MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

30<br />

The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for Perfumes,<br />

Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Flavours (PASS)<br />

(cosmetic products, aromatic products)<br />

Bottle <strong>de</strong>signed by Hector Guimard for Milot – Glass<br />

1900 – France© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Adoration bottle perfume and its box, Norman Merle<br />

Cardboard, silk, gold<strong>en</strong> metal – 1940 – USA<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Arlequina<strong>de</strong> bottle, Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine, Glass<br />

1920 - France© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


C ertified by the<br />

governm<strong>en</strong>t in 2005,<br />

the Perfume, Aroma,<br />

Sc<strong>en</strong>t and Savour<br />

(PASS) Competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess<br />

C<strong>en</strong>tre contributes to<br />

the economic dynamism<br />

of the Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

C<strong>en</strong>tre township<br />

committee and beyond<br />

the PACA region.<br />

This competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre is<br />

aimed at bringing together all<br />

of the industry’s international<br />

actors: ingredi<strong>en</strong>t producers,<br />

perfume and sc<strong>en</strong>t industry,<br />

manufacturers, users of<br />

sci<strong>en</strong>tific know-how, research<br />

methods and laboratories.<br />

Strategy<br />

PASS ext<strong>en</strong>ds from <strong>Grasse</strong> and<br />

Sophia-Antipolis to Haute Prov<strong>en</strong>ce,<br />

as far as the Drome Prov<strong>en</strong>çale.<br />

It covers the <strong>en</strong>tire<br />

value chain: from agricultural<br />

activities in the production of<br />

perfume plants and aromatics<br />

to industrial activities in aromas<br />

and perfume making, cosmetics,<br />

and food flavourings.<br />

It is the result of a c<strong>en</strong>tury-old<br />

industrial tradition in perfume<br />

making, of agriculture focusing<br />

Glass wall MIP- © Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />

on horticultural production and aromatic plants, of an economy firmly rooted<br />

in its landscape.<br />

The businesses in this industry have be<strong>en</strong> able to evolve and adapt. Today<br />

they are marked by tradition, ancestral know-how, and mo<strong>de</strong>rnity.<br />

The C<strong>en</strong>tre is supported by und<strong>en</strong>iable advantages :<br />

Significant economic weight :<br />

• The foremost national conc<strong>en</strong>tration of companies producing fragrant<br />

compounds and cosmetics, marked by the pres<strong>en</strong>ce of national lea<strong>de</strong>rs,<br />

• World’s leading area for the production of fragrance plants (world’s leading<br />

producer of lavandin),<br />

• Gross rev<strong>en</strong>ues of 800 million Euros, or 50% of national gross rev<strong>en</strong>ues.<br />

A strong id<strong>en</strong>tity :<br />

• A solid brand image,<br />

• A localisable and localised c<strong>en</strong>tre, closely tied to its host area. All of the<br />

industry’s products and production convey the image of their region.<br />

• Excell<strong>en</strong>t international visibility: the companies in the industry have an<br />

international base and remarkably high export rates: 41% in cosmetics<br />

and perfumery and 57% for the aromatics industry.<br />

A shared will :<br />

• A C<strong>en</strong>tre supported by all of the actors in the industry and the repres<strong>en</strong>tative<br />

organisations, recognised nationally, Europe-wi<strong>de</strong> and internationally,<br />

<strong>en</strong>joying support from local communities<br />

Adapted sci<strong>en</strong>tific pot<strong>en</strong>tial :<br />

• Backed by r<strong>en</strong>owned R&D c<strong>en</strong>tres<br />

• Skilled local workforce<br />

Ambre Antique bottle perfume Lalique for Parfums Coty<br />

Frosted glass – 1910 – France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Salts bottle – Crystal and silver<br />

Middle 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 31<br />

The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for Perfumes, Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Flavours<br />

Press kit MIP


The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for Perfumes, Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Flavours<br />

Press kit MIP<br />

32<br />

Innovation<br />

A major chall<strong>en</strong>ge with variable<br />

features :<br />

- Def<strong>en</strong>sive: compliance with<br />

new regulations, adoption of<br />

consumer quality and safety<br />

standards.<br />

- Off<strong>en</strong>sive: Upstream: varietal<br />

diversity, creation of new products,<br />

r<strong>en</strong>ewal of product lines<br />

during manufacturing processes<br />

(extraction, distillation, formulation..).<br />

- Downstream: packaging, distribution,<br />

relations, consumer<br />

loyalty.<br />

A strategy based on R&D<br />

Perman<strong>en</strong>t regulatory oversight<br />

and informing and lobbying<br />

national, Community and international<br />

public authorities are<br />

necessary. R&D has to be at<br />

the core of company strategy,<br />

especially for the SMEs that are<br />

so numerous in the industry, to<br />

<strong>de</strong>velop new ingredi<strong>en</strong>ts and<br />

aromatic compositions, meeting<br />

the needs of their cli<strong>en</strong>ts<br />

and of consumers in terms of<br />

health, safety and <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>tal<br />

protection.<br />

An effort to pool resources in<br />

common areas will be set up<br />

through the launching of unified<br />

R&D projects.<br />

Vanilla pods - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Bottle <strong>de</strong>signed by Hector Guimard for Milot, <strong>de</strong>tail<br />

Glass – 1900 – France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Str<strong>en</strong>gth<strong>en</strong> international influ<strong>en</strong>ce<br />

Obviously this economic and strategic oversight is accompanied internationally<br />

by joint communication efforts and actions aimed at shared values/issues<br />

(regional image, nature, etc...). Competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess will be <strong>en</strong>hanced by cost<br />

sharing and the implem<strong>en</strong>tation of c<strong>en</strong>tralised purchasing.<br />

The C<strong>en</strong>tre’s chall<strong>en</strong>ges<br />

• Placing R&D at the heart of company strategies especially for the<br />

many SMEs in the industry.<br />

• Equipping all European actors in the industry (ingredi<strong>en</strong>t producers,<br />

perfume and aroma industry, user manufacturers...) with<br />

sci<strong>en</strong>tific know-how, methods and analytical tools that <strong>en</strong>sure<br />

their competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess in the new regulatory <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>t.<br />

• In the short term, <strong>de</strong>veloping and spreading the knowledge, knowhow<br />

and analytical systems best suited to the requirem<strong>en</strong>ts of<br />

pres<strong>en</strong>t and future European regulation.<br />

• In the long term, building a strong international-level research<br />

c<strong>en</strong>tre for perfumes, aromas, savours and sc<strong>en</strong>ts capable of<br />

attracting the world’s major players in the cosmetics industry to<br />

the Prov<strong>en</strong>ce Alpes Côte d’Azur region.<br />

• Str<strong>en</strong>gth<strong>en</strong>ing the economic weight of the C<strong>en</strong>tre, and its globalisation.<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Figurine perfume bottle repres<strong>en</strong>ting a god<strong>de</strong>ss of<br />

beauty – Bronze – 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Southern India<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


Interior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 33<br />

Press kit MIP


Press kit MIP<br />

34<br />

Association for International Perfume<br />

Museum outreach<br />

(ARMIP)<br />

Spray Nuit <strong>de</strong> Chine – Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine<br />

Paul Poiret – by 1924<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Bourrasque bottle, Le Galion – Colorless glass – 1937<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Azuréa bottle and its box, LT Piver – Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France


S ince it op<strong>en</strong>ed in 1989,<br />

the International Perfume<br />

Museum, a tribute<br />

to the past and future<br />

of <strong>Grasse</strong>’s keynote<br />

industry, has always<br />

received solid support<br />

from the <strong>en</strong>tire profession.<br />

<strong>Grasse</strong>’s manufacturers as well<br />

as the major Fr<strong>en</strong>ch and<br />

foreign perfume houses have<br />

all contributed substantially to<br />

the creation and <strong>en</strong>richm<strong>en</strong>t of<br />

its collections.<br />

Closely involved, they consi<strong>de</strong>r<br />

the museum as both a guardian<br />

of the heritage and a<br />

partner in communication and<br />

training; it therefore became<br />

necessary to set up an association<br />

of fri<strong>en</strong>ds of the<br />

museum, un<strong>de</strong>r the name<br />

A.I.P.M.O.<br />

It curr<strong>en</strong>tly has more than two<br />

hundred members. Active and<br />

retired professionals in the perfume<br />

industry, companies and<br />

individuals make their skills,<br />

know-how and networks of<br />

relationships available to the<br />

Museum.<br />

Kohl case – Wood – Coptic period - Egypt<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Actor and partner of the International Perfume Museum<br />

As part of the agreem<strong>en</strong>t it signed with the City of <strong>Grasse</strong>, the A.I.P.M.O.<br />

each year purchased many perfume-related articles, out of its own funds<br />

with participation by the F.R.A.M., which it th<strong>en</strong> donates to the city.<br />

Through its members, it participates in making the museum’s collections<br />

known, and in safeguarding and disseminating the heritage of the perfume<br />

industry:<br />

• Id<strong>en</strong>tification and study of the collections: inv<strong>en</strong>tory assistance, memoires<br />

on the industry’s tangible and intangible history and heritage,<br />

• Safeguarding of the heritage: rescue and donation of perfume industry<br />

technical hardware, objects and archives that would otherwise be <strong>de</strong>strosyed,<br />

• Dissemination of the heritage: holding seminars, digitising specialised<br />

works (chemistry, techniques), creation of the museum’s Internet site.<br />

In or<strong>de</strong>r to further expand the outreach of the International Perfume<br />

Museum, the A.I.P.M.O. successfully un<strong>de</strong>rtook three projects:<br />

• Creation of a shop selling articles <strong>de</strong>riving from the museum’s collections<br />

and refer<strong>en</strong>ce works on perfume and its associated activities (aromatics,<br />

aromatherapy, cosmetics), published by the museum or by others, and also<br />

available on the Internet.<br />

• Creation of gui<strong>de</strong>d tours, introductory workshops on perfume creation, and<br />

lectures, both at the museum and throughout France and the world.<br />

• Creation of a Culture/Entry project for the public <strong>en</strong>tering or re-<strong>en</strong>tering<br />

the profession.<br />

As part of the expansion and re<strong>de</strong>sign of the International Perfume Museum,<br />

the A.I.O.M.O. continues to actively support the museum, which is pursuing<br />

its activities during the expansion work by holding seminars and outreach<br />

programmes.<br />

Pow<strong>de</strong>r peat – Shaped flask – Crystal and silver gilt<br />

Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Germany © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Au Soleil bottle for Lubin – Moul<strong>de</strong>d<br />

transluc<strong>en</strong>t glass tinted in mass – Circa 1925<br />

© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 35<br />

Association for International Perfume Museum outreach<br />

Press kit MIP


THE INTERNATIONAL PERFUME MUSEM RECEIVES<br />

SUPPORT FROM :<br />

• MINISTÈRE DE LA CULTURE ET DE LA<br />

COMMUNICATION<br />

• DIRECTION RÉGIONALE DES AFFAIRES<br />

CULTURELLES PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE<br />

D’AZUR<br />

• CONSEIL RÉGIONAL PROVENCE-ALPES-<br />

CÔTE D’AZUR<br />

• CONSEIL GÉNÉRAL DES ALPES-MARITIMES<br />

• COMMUNAUTÉ D’AGGLOMÉRATION PÔLE<br />

AZUR PROVENCE<br />

• COMITÉ FRANÇAIS DU PARFUM<br />

• FÉDÉRATION DES INDUSTRIES DE LA<br />

PARFUMERIE<br />

• FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION<br />

• SOCIÉTÉ FRANÇAISE DES PARFUMEURS<br />

Press kit MIP<br />

36<br />

Partners of the<br />

International Perfume Museum<br />

AND SPONSORSHIP FROM :<br />

Education and training<br />

• INSTITUT SUPÉRIEUR INTERNATIONAL DU<br />

PARFUM, DE LA COSMÉTIQUE ET DE L’AROMATIQUE<br />

ALIMENTAIRE (ISIPCA)<br />

• UNIVERSITÉ D’AVIGNON ET DES PAYS DU<br />

VAUCLUSE, LABORATOIRE CULTURE ET COMMUNI-<br />

CATION<br />

• UNIVERSITÉ DE BOURGOGNE, LABORATOIRE SUR<br />

L’IMAGE, LES MEDIATIONS ET LE SENSIBLE EN<br />

INFORMATION COMMUNICATION<br />

• UNIVERSITÉ DE NICE SOPHIA-ANTIPOLIS,<br />

LABORATOIRE D’ANTHROPOLOGIE ET DE<br />

SOCIOLOGIE<br />

Perfumes companies<br />

• CHANEL<br />

• CHRISTIAN DIOR PARFUMS<br />

• GUERLAIN<br />

• HERMÈS<br />

• KALOO PARFUMS<br />

• KENZO PARFUMS<br />

• L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE<br />

• THIERRY MUGLER<br />

• UNILEVER COSMETICS<br />

• YVES SAINT LAURENT PARFUMS<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

Raw materials and composition companies<br />

• ALBERT VIEILLE S.A.S.<br />

• CHARABOT S.A.<br />

• EXPRESSIONS PARFUMÉES S.A.<br />

• FIRMENICH<br />

• FRAGRANCE RESOURCES<br />

• INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS AND FRAGRANCES (I.F.F.)<br />

• MANE<br />

• PAYAN BERTRAND S.A.<br />

• ROBERTET S.A.<br />

Glassmakers/Packaging companies<br />

• SAINT-GOBAIN DESJONQUERES<br />

• TOURNAIRE S.A.<br />

Designers<br />

• AESTHÈTE<br />

• QSLD QU’ON SE LE DISE<br />

• SYLVIE DE FRANCE DESIGNER<br />

And<br />

• ASSOCIATION POUR LE RAYONNEMENT DU MUSÉE<br />

INTERNATIONAL DE LA PARFUMERIE (ARMIP)<br />

• BOUGIE & SENTEUR<br />

• COSMOPROF (SoGeCos S.p.A. – BOLOGNAFIERE GROUP)<br />

• HSBC<br />

• MC DONALD’S<br />

• MICHAEL EDWARDS & CPNY<br />

• OSMOTHÈQUE<br />

• WORLD PERFUMERY CONGRESS


Visuals available for the press<br />

Images of the International Perfume Museum<br />

Statutory refer<strong>en</strong>ce © Musée International <strong>de</strong> la Parfumerie, MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Exterior view MIP - © Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on Interior view project - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Interior views MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

01 02 03 04<br />

Exterior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Glass wall MIP- © Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />

05 06<br />

Exterior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

Interior views - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />

07 08 09<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 37<br />

Press kit MIP


Visuals available for the press<br />

Press kit MIP<br />

10 Star anis 11 2nd – 3rd c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

12 Attic<br />

13<br />

Pear-shaped bottle<br />

Aryballos<br />

Blown glass<br />

Painted terracotta<br />

Syrie<br />

Grece<br />

Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

Perfume bottle<br />

Blown glass<br />

Germany<br />

15 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

16 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

17<br />

Inc<strong>en</strong>se burner<br />

Bernagamot box<br />

Qing Dynasty (late)<br />

Bergamot bark, painted<br />

Cast bronze, <strong>en</strong>graved – China and glazed paper<br />

France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

Ornam<strong>en</strong>tal ring for perfuming hair<br />

Hold cloves<br />

Enamelled silver – Morocco<br />

Late 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

Pocket nécessaire<br />

Metal, bronze, leather, ivory<br />

France<br />

18 Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

Azuréa bottle and its box<br />

LT Piver – France<br />

19 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

P<strong>en</strong>dant salts flask<br />

Porcelain<br />

20 1900<br />

Bottle <strong>de</strong>signed by<br />

Hector Guimard for Milot<br />

21 Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

Universal bottle, Lalique<br />

Glass and black lights<br />

France<br />

Glass - France<br />

France<br />

22 Circa 1925<br />

23 First half of 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury 24 1920<br />

25<br />

1920<br />

Au soleil bottle for Lubin<br />

Pear-shaped spray bottle<br />

Arlequina<strong>de</strong> bottle,<br />

Golli Wogg perfume bottle<br />

Moul<strong>de</strong>d transluc<strong>en</strong>t glass Metal and moul<strong>de</strong>d glass<br />

Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine<br />

Vigny Verre - France<br />

in tinted mass<br />

France<br />

Glass - France<br />

38<br />

14


26 Middle Empire<br />

27 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

28 Attic<br />

29<br />

Ointm<strong>en</strong>t<br />

Figurine perfume bottle repres<strong>en</strong>ting Lekhytos<br />

Carved and polished<br />

A god<strong>de</strong>ss of beauty<br />

terracotta<br />

alabaster pot<br />

Bronze<br />

Grece<br />

Egypt<br />

Southern India<br />

30 Circa 1825<br />

31 Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

32 17th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

33<br />

Crystal salts bottle<br />

Pow<strong>de</strong>r peat – Shaped flask Bottle perfume - Glass<br />

France<br />

Crystal and silver gilt<br />

Germany<br />

Bristol/England<br />

34 1910<br />

35 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

36 Coptic period<br />

37<br />

Ambre Antique bottle perfume Figurin perfume bottle<br />

Kohl case - Wood<br />

Lalique for Parfums Coty Porcelain<br />

Egypt<br />

Frosted glass<br />

France<br />

Chelsea/England<br />

38 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

39 Circa 1820<br />

40 1937<br />

41<br />

Cinnamon<br />

Roman lamp shaped room Vinaigrette – Gold and lapis-lazuli Bourrasque bottle, Le Galion<br />

sc<strong>en</strong>ter<br />

Colorless glass<br />

Gold<strong>en</strong> bronze<br />

France<br />

France<br />

T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />

1928<br />

Perfume bottle Ramses II for Bichara<br />

Glass<br />

France<br />

1940<br />

Adoration bottle perfume and its box,<br />

Norman Merle<br />

Cardboard, silk, gold<strong>en</strong> metal<br />

USA<br />

19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />

Poman<strong>de</strong>r<br />

Lapis-lazuli and silver gilt<br />

39<br />

Visuals available for the press<br />

Press kit MIP


musée <strong>de</strong> France<br />

Practical<br />

information Op<strong>en</strong> from 1/10 to 31/05<br />

Wednesday to Monday from 11 to 6 pm<br />

Closed on Tuesday<br />

Publication International Perfume Museum :<br />

edited by Marie-Christine GRASSE.<br />

Perfume a global history,<br />

from the origins to today.<br />

Paris, Somogy Art Publishers, 2008, 296 p.<br />

International Perfume Museum<br />

2, bd. du Jeu <strong>de</strong> Ballon<br />

06130 GRASSE - FRANCE<br />

T - 00 33 (0) 4 97 05 58 00<br />

F - 00 33 (0) 4 97 05 58 01<br />

Web site : www.musees<strong>de</strong>grasse.com<br />

Mail : administration@musees<strong>de</strong>grasse.com<br />

Chief Curator of the museums of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong><br />

Communication Manager<br />

Brigitte Lamielle<br />

Op<strong>en</strong> from 1/06 to 30/09<br />

Op<strong>en</strong> 7/7 from 10 to 7 pm<br />

Thursday from 10 to 9 pm<br />

Closed on public holidays.<br />

Entry :<br />

Standard rate : 3 euros<br />

Reduce rate : 1,50 euros<br />

(Stud<strong>en</strong>ts, groups of more than 10 people)<br />

Free : Childr<strong>en</strong>, jobseekers, disabled people,<br />

people over 60, journalists<br />

Pass : 5 euros (International Perfume Museum<br />

+ Prov<strong>en</strong>cal Arts & History Museum + Villa J-H Fragonard)<br />

Press relations<br />

Heymann, R<strong>en</strong>oult associées<br />

l.gillion@heymann-r<strong>en</strong>oult.com<br />

T - 00 33 (0) 1 44 61 76 76<br />

F - 00 33 (0) 1 44 61 74 40<br />

Visuals and files downloadable on the site :<br />

www.heymann-r<strong>en</strong>oult.com

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