DP MIP08-A:Mise en page 1 - Office de tourisme de Grasse
DP MIP08-A:Mise en page 1 - Office de tourisme de Grasse
DP MIP08-A:Mise en page 1 - Office de tourisme de Grasse
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International<br />
Perfume Museum<br />
Reop<strong>en</strong>ing October, 18th 2008<br />
A perfume<br />
of mystery<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e<br />
Fr<strong>en</strong>ch Riviera<br />
reveals its secrets .
Perfume possesses a therapeutic, aesthetic,<br />
ritual value.<br />
It is an accessory to seduction or eroticism, a way<br />
to celebrate<br />
the gods, a means of purification. It awak<strong>en</strong>s<br />
the s<strong>en</strong>ses, memory,<br />
and at the same time op<strong>en</strong>s up to the world...<br />
Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong>,<br />
Chief Curator of the museums of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
Reop<strong>en</strong>ing October 18th 2008<br />
Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />
T he world of perfume • www.musees<strong>de</strong>grasse.com
4<br />
6<br />
10<br />
12<br />
30<br />
34<br />
36<br />
37<br />
40<br />
Cont<strong>en</strong>ts<br />
The perfume industry in <strong>Grasse</strong>… a heritage<br />
The history of perfume<br />
Creation of a museum unique in France<br />
The new International Perfume Museum<br />
16<br />
18<br />
20<br />
22<br />
26<br />
The museum in numbers<br />
Its collections and activities<br />
The museum and contemporary art<br />
Artists’ responses to the various spaces<br />
The people behind the project<br />
The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for perfumes, aromas, sc<strong>en</strong>ts and flavours<br />
Outreach association of the International Perfume Museum<br />
Partners of the International Perfume Museum<br />
Visuals available to the press<br />
Practical informations<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 3<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
The perfume industry in <strong>Grasse</strong>… a heritage<br />
4<br />
Roses C<strong>en</strong>tifolia<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Enfleurage glass frame<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Exterior view<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
O ur heritage (…) is the<br />
business we’ve be<strong>en</strong><br />
in for c<strong>en</strong>turies, the<br />
perfume industry, created<br />
right here through<br />
the combination of g<strong>en</strong>erous<br />
Nature and of<br />
m<strong>en</strong> brimming with initiative,<br />
courage and <strong>de</strong>termination.<br />
The perfume industry, born out<br />
of the tanning industry, at first<br />
artisanal and only later industrial,<br />
was able, as the people of<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong> always were in the past,<br />
to get around obstacles, withstand<br />
pressure, change and<br />
adapt to the circumstances of<br />
the times.<br />
As in all past <strong>de</strong>ca<strong>de</strong>s, the last<br />
thirty years were times of profound<br />
changes. The viol<strong>en</strong>t winds<br />
of globalisation might have carried<br />
off everything. The lam<strong>en</strong>ted<br />
near-disappearance of fields of<br />
flowers from <strong>Grasse</strong>’s hillsi<strong>de</strong>s<br />
and the dismantling of the<br />
“jewels” of the local perfume<br />
industry early in the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
(Chiris, Roure, Méro and Boyveau<br />
and others) might have led<br />
one to believe that the industry<br />
was in <strong>de</strong>cline.<br />
But the shift towards aromatic<br />
products, the expansion of the fragrant<br />
compounds business<br />
the extraordinary know-how of<br />
the people of <strong>Grasse</strong> in the area<br />
of natural products, and the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of new branch companies by the<br />
larger companies all <strong>en</strong>abled <strong>Grasse</strong>’s business to make it through these turbul<strong>en</strong>t<br />
economic times. What other area in France – so very small, really – can<br />
today claim the honour and the ability to repres<strong>en</strong>t more than 50% of national<br />
rev<strong>en</strong>ues and betwe<strong>en</strong> 8 and 9% of world rev<strong>en</strong>ues in its field?<br />
We must respect this heritage, which has be<strong>en</strong> an extraordinary bit of good<br />
fortune for the <strong>Grasse</strong> area. And the best way to do that is to reinforce it and<br />
give it a chance to take up the chall<strong>en</strong>ges of the 21st c<strong>en</strong>tury. This is the<br />
significance of the complete re<strong>de</strong>sign of the International Perfume Museum<br />
(IPM), which the City of <strong>Grasse</strong> <strong>en</strong>trusted to the tal<strong>en</strong>ted architect Frédéric<br />
Jung. The new IPM concept abandons the static approach of the museums of<br />
the 1970’s, offering up a site that is as well anchored in our past history as it<br />
is in our future chall<strong>en</strong>ges.<br />
As a g<strong>en</strong>uine resource c<strong>en</strong>tre, it seeks to be the point of converg<strong>en</strong>ce of<br />
everything that happ<strong>en</strong>ed in the past, everything that is happ<strong>en</strong>ing now,<br />
and everything that will happ<strong>en</strong> in the perfume industry, and with that little<br />
known and still mysterious and magical s<strong>en</strong>se of smell. . Perman<strong>en</strong>t and<br />
temporary exhibits, themed and educational tours, various experim<strong>en</strong>ts, a<br />
warm welcome for tourists, meetings of professionals and researchers – all this<br />
is on the ag<strong>en</strong>da of this new IPM, which seeks to be a strong symbolic revitalisation<br />
of our heritage, both material and virtual.<br />
This is also the meaning of the certification of our area as a Competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess<br />
C<strong>en</strong>tre (Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Savours C<strong>en</strong>tre) awar<strong>de</strong>d to us by Mr. Christian<br />
Estrosi, Minister with responsibility for Regional Developm<strong>en</strong>t, in July 2005,<br />
and the concept behind the World Natural Products Observatory. This certification<br />
is not merely a recognition of the excell<strong>en</strong>ce and know-how of our area,<br />
which undoubtedly was too mo<strong>de</strong>st in the past, but most of all a means of<br />
accessing physical and financial resources to put industrial companies, universities,<br />
research labs – public and private – and local communities into synch in<br />
or<strong>de</strong>r to <strong>en</strong>hance the strategic tools that can be used to face the new chall<strong>en</strong>ges.<br />
(...)<br />
In this forward-looking context, the re<strong>de</strong>sign of the IPM is a powerful symbol:<br />
of bringing together the forces and means to live int<strong>en</strong>sely in the pres<strong>en</strong>t and<br />
to approach the future positively out of respect and pri<strong>de</strong> for a dazzling past.<br />
Exterior view - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on Enfleurage glass frame<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
by Jean-Pierre LELEUX, Mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>,<br />
Vice-Presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Conseil G<strong>en</strong>eral <strong>de</strong>s Alpes-Maritimes and Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />
of the Communauté d’Agglomération Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Interior view<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
5<br />
The perfume industry in <strong>Grasse</strong>… a heritage<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
6<br />
B<strong>en</strong>zoin<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
The history of perfume<br />
Pear-shaped bottle - Blown glass - 2nd-3rd c<strong>en</strong>tury - Syrie<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Exterior view MIP<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
P erfumes and their<br />
uses go far back in<br />
time, following the rise<br />
of civilisations<br />
The first objects consi<strong>de</strong>red to<br />
be perfume or cosmetics jars<br />
date to about 7000 BC, in the<br />
Middle East. Elegant and finely<br />
<strong>de</strong>corated, they are undoubtedly<br />
luxury items reserved for an<br />
elite; they can be found throughout<br />
the Mediterranean area.<br />
These civilisations used various<br />
fragrant materials, especially<br />
resins which were wi<strong>de</strong>ly used<br />
beginning around 4000 BC in<br />
ritual fumigation, in c<strong>en</strong>sers or<br />
perfume-burners reserved for<br />
the gods and royal families.<br />
The Egyptians Egyptians knew<br />
techniques for trapping fragrances<br />
in fats and oils, cold<br />
maceration or hot <strong>de</strong>coction,<br />
but were still unaware of distillation.<br />
The products obtained<br />
were far from having the olfactory<br />
power of our perfumes, but<br />
they were imm<strong>en</strong>sely popular.<br />
This art, which still hesitated to<br />
slip into the world of the profane,<br />
disappeared at the <strong>en</strong>d of<br />
the Bronze Age, around 1200<br />
BC. Certain techniques, marked<br />
by this Ori<strong>en</strong>tal tradition,<br />
persisted partly in areas around<br />
the Mediterranean and served<br />
as the basis for the birth of a<br />
new age of perfumes in the<br />
First Mill<strong>en</strong>nium. It was not<br />
until the archaic period (6th<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tury BC) that fragrances<br />
became more <strong>de</strong>mocratic. By that time they were being kept in simpler<br />
containers, like the alabaster aryballos.By th<strong>en</strong> sc<strong>en</strong>t held a dominant place<br />
in the marketplace of the sacred, the therapeutic, cosmetics and cooking, a<br />
place it held throughout the Middle Ages, in every civilisation.<br />
Among the Aztecs, in the Ori<strong>en</strong>t or in Europe, people were composing<br />
mixes with pleasant savours or medicinal virtues. In <strong>Grasse</strong>, raw materials<br />
were wi<strong>de</strong>ly used in the newly emerging perfume industry.<br />
Although natural, raw fragrances were ma<strong>de</strong> from spices, flowers, mineral<br />
and vegetable resins, people were also manufacturing perfumed oils or<br />
waters obtained by <strong>de</strong>cantation, maceration and filtration. The question of perfume<br />
remained closely tied to the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of distillation techniques,<br />
which spread along with the use of the alembic, and alchemy, after translation<br />
of Arab treatises by physicians at the Salerno school in the 12th c<strong>en</strong>tury and<br />
later by its propagation in Andalusia, in the 13th c<strong>en</strong>tury. Inv<strong>en</strong>ted in Salerno<br />
in the 12th c<strong>en</strong>tury, alcohol was used solely for medical purposes up until the<br />
15th c<strong>en</strong>tury. In the 16th c<strong>en</strong>tury, its use in manufacturing perfumes spread<br />
quickly.<br />
The Ori<strong>en</strong>tal civilisations <strong>de</strong>veloped public baths beginning in the 16th c<strong>en</strong>tury.<br />
In Europe, odour marked a social divi<strong>de</strong> until the arrival of the English hygi<strong>en</strong>e<br />
revolution in the 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury. The <strong>de</strong>sire for bodily cleanliness promoted the<br />
<strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of lighter perfumes. At the same time, the perfume maker’s<br />
palette was <strong>en</strong>hanced by new raw materials imported by the British East India<br />
Company. Mortal exhalations, which spread epi<strong>de</strong>mics, were fought by vital perfumes<br />
with curative powers. Progress in chemistry called into question the<br />
use of disinfection by strong sc<strong>en</strong>ts. These sc<strong>en</strong>ts were also utilised in other<br />
parts of the world, whether associated with the gods in China and India, with<br />
inc<strong>en</strong>se sticks, or with the profane world for festive rites, as an olfactory halo<br />
in Africa, or as a refinem<strong>en</strong>t in the Mogul Court.<br />
The Fr<strong>en</strong>ch Revolution ruined perfume makers but did not eliminate the<br />
taste for perfume. After the Terror, people perfumed themselves more than<br />
ever. Industry un<strong>de</strong>rw<strong>en</strong>t a fundam<strong>en</strong>tal change; this was also the great intellectual<br />
and social era in <strong>Grasse</strong>. Burd<strong>en</strong>some taxation quickly led to a <strong>de</strong>cline<br />
in the tanning industry, to the b<strong>en</strong>efit of the perfume industry, which <strong>de</strong>veloped<br />
because of improvem<strong>en</strong>ts in technical processes. Perfumed pastes were joined<br />
by pow<strong>de</strong>rs, soaps and tobacco. .. AT the same time, pleasure – the era’s keyword<br />
– gave rise to a proliferation of little boxes and trinkets associated with the<br />
appearance of new materials, whereas other civilisations continued to use<br />
perfume-burners wh<strong>en</strong> the perfumed materials were solid.<br />
Exterior view - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on Pear-shaped bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – 2nd-3rd c<strong>en</strong>tury –<br />
Blown glass- Syrie © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Exterior view<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 7<br />
The history of perfume<br />
Press kit MIP
The history of perfume<br />
Press kit MIP<br />
8<br />
In Europe, the 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury saw<br />
a change in the very object of<br />
tra<strong>de</strong>, which shifted from<br />
gloves to perfume. The 19th<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tury was witness to a<br />
change in this originally artisanal<br />
activity, which became<br />
powerfully industrial.<br />
During the same period, in<br />
Africa, perfume making was<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tred on the large coastal<br />
cities of Eastern Africa but also<br />
w<strong>en</strong>t into the interior of a mysterious<br />
and primitive “ambiguous<br />
Africa”. Perfumes and preparations<br />
ma<strong>de</strong> from fragrant plants<br />
continued to contribute in many<br />
ways to magical and therapeutic<br />
strategies, in both rural and<br />
urban areas. In the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />
imported bottled perfumes<br />
became increasingly fashionable,<br />
to the point that they were<br />
synonyms with social success,<br />
in large cities and in remote<br />
towns.<br />
Finally, in the West, globalisation<br />
moved hand in hand with<br />
the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of the perfume<br />
industry and created a uniformity<br />
of customs, and a standardisation,<br />
in all the great metropolises.<br />
France played a major<br />
role in this “Grand C<strong>en</strong>tury”<br />
because of the combined and<br />
complem<strong>en</strong>tary efforts of<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong>, the world’s foremost<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tre for natural raw materials<br />
for perfume and their <strong>de</strong>rivatives,<br />
and Paris, the world’s<br />
fashion capital. In this Perfume<br />
City at the start of the c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />
the perfume industry was characterised<br />
by the processing of<br />
natural products and was a virtual world monopoly. At the <strong>en</strong>d of the c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />
while natural products were still a major part of the business of <strong>Grasse</strong>, traditional<br />
local products had become rare. Perfume compounding and food<br />
flavouring were coming to the fore. But the city still claimed the name<br />
Perfume City.<br />
The mo<strong>de</strong>rn perfume industry, created at the <strong>en</strong>d of the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury with the<br />
first uses of synthetic products, <strong>de</strong>veloped g<strong>en</strong>uine creations in the 20th<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tury, based on the discoveries of fragrant products through research in<br />
organic chemistry and combined with irreplaceable natural products resulting<br />
from new technologies. Houbigant and Guerlain were the first to utilise<br />
these synthetic products: Fougère royale in 1884, Jicky in 1889, consi<strong>de</strong>red<br />
the first mo<strong>de</strong>rn perfume, celebrating the adv<strong>en</strong>t of vanilla. They paved the<br />
way for the great creations of the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury. François Coty, the father of the<br />
mo<strong>de</strong>rn perfume industry, a pioneering g<strong>en</strong>ius and industrialist, ma<strong>de</strong> ready<br />
use of the natural “Absolutes” <strong>de</strong>riving from the perfection of the technique for<br />
extracting volatile solv<strong>en</strong>ts, which he paired with new synthetic products. This<br />
technique is still used in creating perfumes, allowing the perfumer to recreate<br />
sc<strong>en</strong>ts that are inextricably associated with him. This <strong>en</strong>ables the bottle<br />
<strong>de</strong>signer to support these perfumes, and ext<strong>en</strong>d the image of a brand to be<br />
repres<strong>en</strong>ted and magnified. After a proliferation of creativity that really had<br />
no price limit, through elite forms of distribution, the second half of the 20th<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tury saw perfume become available to virtually everyone, which led to a<br />
drop in the retail price. More and more new perfumes were launched, with<br />
varying <strong>de</strong>grees of success. The average life span of a product grew shorter.<br />
With but few exceptions, the perfume industry w<strong>en</strong>t from the extraordinary<br />
to the commonplace, and from the hyper-selective to the masses.<br />
Some civilisations have still avoi<strong>de</strong>d globalisation. In Oceania, people rub their<br />
hair and body with plants selected for their fragrance. Asia is still synonymous<br />
with floral offerings, with fresh flowers being omnipres<strong>en</strong>t in everyday life and<br />
religion. Fragrance has powers of seduction and purification. The body practices<br />
associated with perfume are a map for reading social life in the Arab Emirates.<br />
Little by little, sc<strong>en</strong>ts are starting to play a role in China as personality markers,<br />
as is already the case in the West.<br />
Perfume possesses a therapeutic, aesthetic, ritual value. It is an accessory<br />
to seduction or eroticism, a way to celebrate the gods, a means of purification.<br />
It creates a pleasant atmosphere, an incitem<strong>en</strong>t to purchase carefully disp<strong>en</strong>sed<br />
by olfactory marketing. It awak<strong>en</strong>s the s<strong>en</strong>ses and memory while at the same<br />
time op<strong>en</strong>ing up to the world. It is an elem<strong>en</strong>tary instrum<strong>en</strong>t of excell<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
that does nothing to change the way of the world but radically changes its<br />
atmosphere.<br />
by Marie-Christine GRASSE,<br />
Chief Curator of the museums of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Carved and polished alabaster pot – Middle Empire- Egypt<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m
Interior view project - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
9<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
10<br />
Ylang-ylang<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Creation of a museum<br />
unique in the world<br />
Ornam<strong>en</strong>tal ring for perfuming hair – Enamelled silver ––<br />
20th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Morocco - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Formerly Chiris building - <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
© Alain Sabatier
S afeguard a heritage<br />
Since remote Antiquity, the<br />
perfume industry in the broa<strong>de</strong>st<br />
s<strong>en</strong>se of the word has<br />
be<strong>en</strong> one of the most important<br />
social ph<strong>en</strong>om<strong>en</strong>a, in every civilisation,<br />
whatever the social,<br />
political or religious context.<br />
For more than four mill<strong>en</strong>nia,<br />
it has giv<strong>en</strong> birth to millions of<br />
articles ma<strong>de</strong> of the most precious<br />
and most humble materials,<br />
using forms of art from<br />
realism to abstraction.<br />
It has of course led to many private<br />
collections. But until the<br />
International Perfume Museum<br />
op<strong>en</strong>ed, there had never be<strong>en</strong><br />
a <strong>de</strong>sire to create a public institution<br />
<strong>de</strong>voted to safeguarding<br />
this international heritage.<br />
Soap, makeup and cosmetics<br />
are inseparable from what we<br />
un<strong>de</strong>rstand today as the perfume<br />
industry, which is to say,<br />
ess<strong>en</strong>tially, luxury alcoholic<br />
perfume or finished-product.<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong>, cradle of the<br />
perfumery<br />
Obviously such a museum could<br />
only be found in France, where<br />
the contemporary perfume<br />
industry began early in the 20th<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tury, thanks to François Coty<br />
and Coco Chanel, who started<br />
the fashion for perfumes rich in<br />
al<strong>de</strong>hy<strong>de</strong>s.<br />
Over these <strong>de</strong>ca<strong>de</strong>s, <strong>Grasse</strong> has<br />
be<strong>en</strong> able to maintain and continue<br />
to <strong>de</strong>monstrate the excel-<br />
l<strong>en</strong>ce of its production of natural raw materials prepared by ing<strong>en</strong>ious processes,<br />
constantly perfected and utilised by powerful industrial establishm<strong>en</strong>ts.<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong> wanted to be the first to establish an International Perfume Museum.<br />
The city produced the most <strong>de</strong>tailed plan, backed by a t<strong>en</strong>acious collective will to<br />
see it succeed. Beyond the appar<strong>en</strong>t appropriat<strong>en</strong>ess of it, creation of the International<br />
Perfume Museum in <strong>Grasse</strong> is therefore symbolic.<br />
François Carnot, one of the organisers of these so-called Musées C<strong>en</strong>t<strong>en</strong>naux,<br />
was one of the most ard<strong>en</strong>t <strong>de</strong>f<strong>en</strong><strong>de</strong>rs of this i<strong>de</strong>a. He remains an extraordinary<br />
figure in the history of the International Perfume Museum: son of the Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />
of the Republic, he was passionately interested in artistic life.<br />
1918, a first museum<br />
So it was that François Carnot established a private museum in <strong>Grasse</strong> in<br />
1918. He already <strong>en</strong>visioned a section reserved for perfume in all its forms;<br />
beginning in 1921, this section was <strong>en</strong>riched by the g<strong>en</strong>erosity of donors. As<br />
ess<strong>en</strong>tial complem<strong>en</strong>ts to one another, the perfumers of <strong>Grasse</strong> and of<br />
Paris, including the r<strong>en</strong>owned houses of Piver, Pinaud... as well as the Chiris<br />
industrial establishm<strong>en</strong>ts in <strong>Grasse</strong>, helped to establish this museum.<br />
François Carnot rallied the world of perfumery and the <strong>de</strong>corative arts. He<br />
introduced perfumer François Coty to the r<strong>en</strong>owned glassmaker R<strong>en</strong>é<br />
Lalique. Private collectors were no exception. In 1931, Viscountess Savigny <strong>de</strong><br />
Moncorps donated to the <strong>Grasse</strong> museum a major collection of perfume<br />
and cosmetic labels dating from the early 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury, from the old Seillans<br />
(Var) perfumery.<br />
It was not until 1955, with the arrival at the <strong>Grasse</strong> museum of a young curator,<br />
that François Carnot would relaunch this project, but he received no<br />
assistance from the city <strong>de</strong>spite his growing collections.<br />
Inaugurated in January 1989, the year of the bic<strong>en</strong>t<strong>en</strong>nial of the Fr<strong>en</strong>ch perfume<br />
industry, the International Perfume Museum repres<strong>en</strong>ts the living<br />
memory of a profession as well as a unique and powerful aspect of the<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong> id<strong>en</strong>tity : the perfume industry, for which <strong>Grasse</strong> remains the refer<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
point for the <strong>en</strong>tire world.<br />
Since his election as mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong> in 1995 and his re-election in 2001<br />
th<strong>en</strong> in 2008, Jean-Pierre Leleux has worked hard to restore to this region the<br />
reputation it had earned. He is also Presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Communauté d’Agglomération<br />
Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce and Vice-presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Conseil Général <strong>de</strong>s<br />
Alpes-Maritimes.<br />
Exterior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Crystal salts bottle – Circa 1825 - France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 11<br />
Creation of a museum unique in the world<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
Jasmine - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
12<br />
The new International<br />
Perfume Museum (MIP)<br />
Perfume bottle – Blown glass – Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Germany<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on
T<br />
he International<br />
Perfume Museum<br />
expansion and<br />
re<strong>de</strong>sign project was<br />
<strong>en</strong>trusted to architect<br />
Frédéric Jung. The<br />
work, begun in 2006,<br />
will double the<br />
museum’s area.<br />
In an area of just over<br />
3,000 m2, visitors will<br />
discover a completely<br />
olfactory and interactive<br />
museum. Its mission<br />
will be to conserve,<br />
study and pres<strong>en</strong>t the<br />
heritage of one of the<br />
most prestigious of<br />
Fr<strong>en</strong>ch industries: perfumery.<br />
It will be the<br />
world’s first public collection<br />
<strong>de</strong>dicated to this<br />
industry, from anci<strong>en</strong>t<br />
times to the pres<strong>en</strong>t<br />
day, covering five contin<strong>en</strong>ts,<br />
focusing on<br />
three major themes:<br />
seduction, treatm<strong>en</strong>t,<br />
communication.<br />
Perfume bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Germany<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
The expansion and re<strong>de</strong>sign of the International pe<br />
fume Museum inclu<strong>de</strong>s three phases:<br />
• The museum of the civilisations of perfume in the c<strong>en</strong>tre city.<br />
• The evolution of techniques used to make perfume, in the Hydrocarbons hall<br />
of the former Roure plant, a building today classified as a historic monum<strong>en</strong>t.<br />
• The conservatory of perfume plants.<br />
Wh<strong>en</strong> they arrive in October 2008, the first visitors will be charmed by a<br />
townhouse freed from all its past additions and restored to its original appearance,<br />
especially the inner courtyard and faca<strong>de</strong>s, which have be<strong>en</strong> completely<br />
restored.The <strong>en</strong>trance and its vast hall, facing the courtyard, will inclu<strong>de</strong> the<br />
reception/ticket <strong>de</strong>sk, a childr<strong>en</strong>’s reception area, and a restaurant.Visitors will<br />
find it easy to ori<strong>en</strong>t themselves with special signage and information on<br />
curr<strong>en</strong>t ev<strong>en</strong>ts in the museum.<br />
New rooms in the re<strong>de</strong>signed museum:<br />
• An air-conditioned, secure and perfectly lit temporary exhibition room.<br />
An 80-seat confer<strong>en</strong>ce room.<br />
• A restaurant looking out on the gard<strong>en</strong>.<br />
• Two educational rooms for school ev<strong>en</strong>ts.<br />
• Two ev<strong>en</strong>ts rooms for adult workshops.<br />
• A reception room for childr<strong>en</strong>.<br />
Frédéric Jung, winning architect<br />
Architect Frédéric Jung, who won the competition for the International Perfume<br />
Museum, created a <strong>de</strong>sign that took in the Morel-Amic building, which is the<br />
curr<strong>en</strong>t Pélissier building and museum. A 1981 graduate of the Ecole Nationale<br />
Supérieure <strong>de</strong>s Arts et Industries of Strasbourg, he completed his training in<br />
the United States at the UCLA School of Architecture in 1983. After his stays<br />
abroad, he returned to France in 1985 and worked for various architectural<br />
firms before setting up his own in 1992. In 2000, Jung Architectures Eurl was<br />
established. He participates actively in special ev<strong>en</strong>ts and gives lectures. He also<br />
teaches at the Ecole Nationale <strong>de</strong>s Ponts et Chaussées in Marne la Vallée<br />
and is on the boards of examiners of the most prestigious architecture schools<br />
like Lille, Paris, R<strong>en</strong>nes and Strasbourg.<br />
He has won several competitions, and many trophies have be<strong>en</strong> awar<strong>de</strong>d him :<br />
• 2004 National Rehabilitation Trophy (Musée Oberlin)<br />
• Winner of the 2004 Architecture and Urban Developm<strong>en</strong>t in Alsace Award (Musée Oberlin)<br />
• Nominated for the “European museum of the year award 2004” (Musée Oberlin)<br />
• 2003 Regional Rehabilitation Trophy (Musée Oberlin)<br />
• Nominated for the "2001 Silver Square” (BETC corporate headquarters)<br />
• Winner of the MIPIM Award 2001 (BETC corporate headquarters)<br />
Exterior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Golli Wogg perfume bottle <strong>de</strong>tail- Vigny Verre<br />
1920-France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 13<br />
The new International Perfume Museum<br />
Press kit MIP
The new International Perfume Museum<br />
Press kit MIP<br />
Reconciling the old<br />
and the new<br />
As a man with practical experi<strong>en</strong>ce,<br />
Frédéric Jung excels at<br />
many types of architectural<br />
<strong>de</strong>sign: homes, offices, urban<br />
planning... For the International<br />
Perfume Museum, he managed<br />
to reconcile the old with the<br />
new to create a very elegant<br />
new concept.<br />
He reconfigured an 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
townhouse, the Hôtel Pontevès,<br />
and brought it into harmony<br />
with a mo<strong>de</strong>rn building.<br />
The primary objective of this<br />
r<strong>en</strong>ovation and expansion work<br />
was to exploit the museum in<br />
terms of exhibition of its collections<br />
and of conditions of<br />
conservation and security and<br />
its services to the public.<br />
The museum has to maintain its<br />
international stature whilst not<br />
losing its soul. This means pres<strong>en</strong>ting<br />
in all its spl<strong>en</strong>dour this<br />
unique Fr<strong>en</strong>ch and international<br />
public collection <strong>de</strong>voted<br />
to the perfume industry while<br />
promoting a warm and convivial<br />
dim<strong>en</strong>sion to create a<br />
place of relaxation as well as<br />
research, op<strong>en</strong> to all.<br />
The perman<strong>en</strong>t exhibition of its<br />
collections is <strong>en</strong>hanced by satellites:<br />
confer<strong>en</strong>ce rooms, temporary<br />
exhibits, the Osmotheque,<br />
docum<strong>en</strong>tation c<strong>en</strong>tre, news<br />
kiosk, educational workshops for childr<strong>en</strong> and adults, etc.<br />
Architecturally, this proposal is for a complex <strong>de</strong>sign realised within a multibuilding,<br />
marked by the city’s history and its subsequ<strong>en</strong>t additions.<br />
Situated next a hill right un<strong>de</strong>r a break in the topography, on the edge of the<br />
fortified old city, the museum needs to take advantage of this spatial and<br />
historical wealth. At the same time, it achieves a strong museographical layout.<br />
The fundam<strong>en</strong>tal chall<strong>en</strong>ge in this reorganisation is to bring together 3,000<br />
m2 distributed among five buildings and sev<strong>en</strong> levels.<br />
Four symbolic places in <strong>Grasse</strong>’s history :<br />
• The <strong>en</strong>try pavilion of the former Hugues-Aîné perfume works built in the<br />
19th c<strong>en</strong>tury as well as the vestiges of the cold Dominican monastery<br />
built in the 14th c<strong>en</strong>tury, next to the city wall dating from the same period.<br />
The block’s courtyard is giv<strong>en</strong> a major overhaul by exposure of the fortification<br />
through an op<strong>en</strong>ing that frees up the exhibition floors and circulation<br />
routes. The axis of the fortification is picked up and protected by a glass<br />
nave. It emphasises the museum’s contemporary aspect from Boulevard<br />
Fragonard and the Cours Honoré Cresp roundabout while remaining set<br />
back from the Hôtel Pontevès Morel-Amic.<br />
• The main courtyard of the Hôtel Pontevès now provi<strong>de</strong>s public access.<br />
Enliv<strong>en</strong>ed by the pres<strong>en</strong>ce of the main reception area, it connects the two<br />
buildings that face each other. One, the old annex, ext<strong>en</strong><strong>de</strong>d to the ground<br />
floor to house the hall, will give access to the collections and to the<br />
ev<strong>en</strong>ts area.<br />
The other, the Hôtel Pontevès, houses part of the perman<strong>en</strong>t collections,<br />
museum conservation and the docum<strong>en</strong>tation c<strong>en</strong>tre.<br />
• The old Pélissier building has be<strong>en</strong> rebuilt while keeping its cellars for the<br />
temporary exhibitions and logistics above, and two sections of collections<br />
below. It fits completely within the profile of the curr<strong>en</strong>t building on<br />
Rue <strong>de</strong>s Augustins.<br />
• The gard<strong>en</strong>s and terraces of the various levels in the former courtyards<br />
punctuate the visitor’s route, <strong>de</strong>aling with plant themes associated with differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />
eras through contemporary art.<br />
Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Bottle perfume - Glass – 17th c<strong>en</strong>tury – Bristol/England<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Poman<strong>de</strong>r – Lapis-lazuli and silver gilt – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
14<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m
Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 15<br />
Dossier <strong>de</strong> presse MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
16<br />
Orange blossom<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
The museum in numbers<br />
Inc<strong>en</strong>se burner – Qing Dynasty (late) – Cast bronze,<br />
<strong>en</strong>graved – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury - China - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Hôtel Pontevès<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
Construction:<br />
L<strong>en</strong>gth of time:<br />
4 years<br />
Target cost :<br />
11 300 000 euros<br />
Initial funding:<br />
City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
2 615 000 €<br />
Communauté d’agglomération<br />
Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
2 350 000 €<br />
DRAC (State)<br />
2 470 000 €<br />
Conseil Général <strong>de</strong>s Alpes-Maritimes<br />
2 005 000 €<br />
Conseil Régional PACA<br />
2 860 000 €<br />
Technical<br />
characteristics<br />
Area of the new museum:<br />
3,500 m2<br />
5,000 m2 of floor area<br />
1,200 m3 of concrete<br />
1 crane<br />
130 tonnes of steel<br />
50 jobs/month average<br />
The<br />
museum’s<br />
collection<br />
is composed<br />
of 50,000<br />
items.<br />
Still and batteuse - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Spray Nuit <strong>de</strong> Chine – Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine, Paul Poiret, Salts bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – Crystal and silver<br />
circa 1924 - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Middle 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 17<br />
The museum in numbers<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
18<br />
Figurine perfume bottle –Porcelain<br />
18th c<strong>en</strong>tury – Chelsea/England<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Its collections and activities<br />
Bergamot box – Bergamot bark, painted and<br />
glazed paper – 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Perfume bottle Ramsès II for Bichara – Glass<br />
1928 - France© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
T<br />
he International Perfume<br />
Museum is <strong>de</strong>voted<br />
to the history of<br />
perfume and the evolution<br />
of its techniques<br />
through the c<strong>en</strong>turies. It<br />
features objects repres<strong>en</strong>ting<br />
the <strong>de</strong>corative<br />
arts, botany, industry,<br />
ethnography and sociology,<br />
ranging from the<br />
masterpiece to the everyday.<br />
All disciplines are<br />
applied to our topic,<br />
<strong>en</strong>hancing it and complem<strong>en</strong>ting<br />
it by offering<br />
a variety of views. This<br />
21st c<strong>en</strong>tury museum<br />
looks at the past as well<br />
as at the pres<strong>en</strong>t, and<br />
ev<strong>en</strong> the future, if we<br />
consi<strong>de</strong>r the section on<br />
the era of globalisation,<br />
marketing and communication,<br />
and new markets.<br />
Through extraordinary collections,<br />
it traces the history of<br />
perfumes as well as of soaps,<br />
makeup and cosmetics over the<br />
last four thousand years. As<br />
both a memory of and partner<br />
to the perfume industry, this<br />
museum reveals all the stages<br />
in the creation of a perfume,<br />
from the harvesting and proces-<br />
Interior view MIP © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
sing of the raw materials to the launch of the finished product.<br />
More than 50,000 objects make up the museum’s collection, with flasks<br />
from Egypt, Greece and Rome and all five contin<strong>en</strong>ts, including Marie Antoinette’s<br />
famous “nécessaire”, which served as <strong>Grasse</strong>’s ambassador during<br />
this construction period while on exhibit at Versailles, in Japan, Australia<br />
and Brazil.<br />
In addition to the classic activities of a museum, it conceives and stages<br />
free olfactory ev<strong>en</strong>ts for a wi<strong>de</strong> variety of audi<strong>en</strong>ces: school childr<strong>en</strong> (some<br />
5,000 a year), perfume professionals, tourists, stud<strong>en</strong>ts, etc.<br />
Lectures on perfume, the perfume industry and all their associated topics are<br />
frequ<strong>en</strong>tly held for the edification of all. Perfumery, which is not just an<br />
industry or a sci<strong>en</strong>ce but also an art, brings together some very differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />
players: creators of perfumes, perfume bottles, packaging makers, as well<br />
as raw materials producers, glassmakers, etc. Constantly seeking to <strong>en</strong>rich<br />
its collections, the International Perfume Museum has consi<strong>de</strong>rably expan<strong>de</strong>d<br />
its activities: themed exhibits, school and extramural ev<strong>en</strong>ts, involvem<strong>en</strong>t<br />
in annual national ev<strong>en</strong>ts, participation in tra<strong>de</strong> shows.<br />
The docum<strong>en</strong>tation c<strong>en</strong>tre/library will be expan<strong>de</strong>d and ma<strong>de</strong> more easily<br />
accessible to researchers.<br />
At the same time, the museum team, in cooperation<br />
with the architect and the museographers, is creating<br />
various forms of outreach media:<br />
• A database of all collections relating to the perfume industry in all Fr<strong>en</strong>ch<br />
museums.<br />
• A database of the IPM’s collections.<br />
• A database of the museum’s <strong>en</strong>tire collection of perfume labels.<br />
The various texts that will appear in the museum (flyers, posters....).<br />
• Synopses for the various vi<strong>de</strong>os and audio gui<strong>de</strong>s.<br />
• The texts and photographs for the inaugural catalogue, prepared by<br />
specialists in each historical period treated.<br />
• Update of the museum's Internet site.<br />
• The final selection of the objects displayed, <strong>de</strong>termining the museography.<br />
Poman<strong>de</strong>r <strong>de</strong>tail - Lapis-lazuli and silver gilt – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Interior view Hôtel Ponteves<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 19<br />
its collections and activities<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
20<br />
The museum and contemporary art<br />
Tonka beans<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Pocket nécessaire – Metal, bronze, leather, ivory<br />
Late 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Exterior view MIP<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
A s part of this<br />
expansion, the<br />
museum is calling on<br />
artists to furnish certain<br />
indoor and outdoor<br />
spaces. In fact, in<br />
concert with its Sci<strong>en</strong>tific<br />
and Cultural Project,<br />
the museum is<br />
setting up a complem<strong>en</strong>tary<br />
approach in<br />
tan<strong>de</strong>m with the main<br />
visitors’ route that will<br />
op<strong>en</strong> up the discussion<br />
to an artistic view of<br />
the world of perfume.<br />
This will both question and<br />
move the visitor as well as providing<br />
answers, in or<strong>de</strong>r to<br />
make a visit here a multis<strong>en</strong>sory<br />
experi<strong>en</strong>ce.<br />
The various viewpoints of the<br />
chemist, the aromatician, the<br />
manufacturer, the <strong>de</strong>signer, the<br />
perfume maker, the historian<br />
and the artist can only serve to<br />
<strong>en</strong>rich the overall view of the<br />
various facets of the perfume<br />
industry. The works created will<br />
form an overview of contemporary<br />
art within the museum,<br />
associated with topics from the<br />
world of perfumery: the poetry<br />
of the raw plant materials, smell<br />
and the awak<strong>en</strong>ing of the<br />
s<strong>en</strong>ses, luxury and <strong>de</strong>sign,<br />
glasswork and transpar<strong>en</strong>cy, industry and its materials... At the same time,<br />
the museum will be pres<strong>en</strong>ting scheduled ev<strong>en</strong>ts associated with contemporary<br />
art: temporary exhibits, installations, performances, live shows, lectures pres<strong>en</strong>ting<br />
the work of certain artists associated with perfume.<br />
The International Perfume Museum will call upon local, national and international<br />
artists with differing and complem<strong>en</strong>tary approaches in or<strong>de</strong>r to offer<br />
the public creations that provi<strong>de</strong> a diversified view of the world of perfume. In this<br />
regard it relies on the advice and cooperation of professionals in the contemporary<br />
art world: CNAC-Villa Arson (Nice), FRAC Prov<strong>en</strong>ce-Alpes-Côte d’Azur<br />
(Marseille), Gass<strong>en</strong>di Museum (Digne), Museum of Mo<strong>de</strong>rn and Contemporary<br />
Art (Nice), CIRVA (Marseille).<br />
By featuring a contemporary art approach, the museum joins the regional<br />
contemporary art circuit of the Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce C<strong>en</strong>tre township committee<br />
(Concrete Art Space in Mouans-Sartoux, Museum of Art and History in <strong>Grasse</strong>),<br />
and more broadly that of the Côte d’Azur, with, among others, MAMAC and<br />
Villa Arson in Nice, the Maeght Foundation in à Saint-Paul, and the various<br />
museums <strong>de</strong>voted to a single artist like Chagall and Matisse in Nice, Picasso in<br />
Antibes and Vallauris, Léger in Biot, Cocteau in M<strong>en</strong>ton, as well as the various<br />
galleries throughout the region.<br />
At the same time, the museum is pursuing a policy of<br />
contemporary creation, with three focuses:<br />
• Launch of a collection of artist’s perfume bottles.<br />
• Prototype <strong>de</strong>sign of functional objects associated with perfume by <strong>de</strong>signers<br />
with pres<strong>en</strong>tation of the creation process and the various stages (<strong>de</strong>sign,<br />
mo<strong>de</strong>l, resin, plaster, glass).<br />
• Regular sc<strong>en</strong>t creation by the ISIPCA perfume makers’ school.<br />
Some artists for temporary exhibits<br />
Isa BARBIER - Michel BLAZY - Clém<strong>en</strong>t BORDERIE - Marie BOVO - James Lee BYARS -<br />
Dale CHIHULY - Gérard COLLIN-THIEBAUT - Claudine DRAY - Marie-Ange GUILLEMINOT -<br />
Fabrice HYBERT - PIERRE & GILLES - Bettina RHEIMS - Claire ROUDENKO-BERTIN -<br />
Jana STERBAK - Gérard TRAQUANDI - Felice VARINI.<br />
Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Pocket nécessaire <strong>de</strong>tail – Metal, bronze, leather, ivory – Late<br />
18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Interior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 21<br />
The museum and contemporary art<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
22<br />
Concrete<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Artists’ responses to the<br />
various spaces<br />
Pear-shaped bottle – Opaline – Circa 1840 – France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Vinaigrette gold<strong>en</strong> work “guilloché”– Circa 1830<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
S mall paved terrace<br />
(View of the Estérel)<br />
For this space, artist Peter<br />
Downsbrough offers a work on<br />
<strong>en</strong>hancem<strong>en</strong>t of the landscape<br />
and on the concept of viewpoint.<br />
The goal here is to see<br />
the landscape differ<strong>en</strong>tly and<br />
provi<strong>de</strong> another focus, both<br />
directly on the terrace and by<br />
playing on the bay window<br />
using a graphic <strong>de</strong>sign that<br />
works on the terrace. His work<br />
will be minimal and subtle.<br />
Peter Downsbrough’s installations<br />
play on the parameters of<br />
the space where they are produced,<br />
whether the real space<br />
of architecture and the city, of<br />
the exhibition space, or space<br />
in a book: the surfaces of walls,<br />
floors, ceilings, sometimes windows,<br />
and the surfaces of<br />
covers and <strong>page</strong>s are all opportunities<br />
for him to question the<br />
evid<strong>en</strong>ce of the words writt<strong>en</strong><br />
there. Vertical, horizontal,<br />
oblique, the cut, land and frontier<br />
are his preferred tools.<br />
The 18th and 19th<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong><br />
The 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong><br />
is an 800 m2 geometric gard<strong>en</strong>.<br />
It dates from 1779 and was<br />
done over in 1976. Its composition<br />
elem<strong>en</strong>ts are very interesting:<br />
gate, geometric bed of pruned<br />
boxwood, small circular<br />
pool, arbour of old roses, orange trees...<br />
By op<strong>en</strong>ing out onto the city, the 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong> serves as a<br />
window for the museum. This provi<strong>de</strong>s a hook for the pot<strong>en</strong>tial public on one<br />
of the themes associated with perfume. The strategic c<strong>en</strong>tral fountain hosts<br />
the outdoor work of Jean-Michel Othoniel, a work on glass linked to the fountain’s<br />
water, symbolically recalling nectar and perfume bottle, nature and culture.<br />
The work takes into account the existing constraints (water feature, trees and<br />
plants, the faça<strong>de</strong> of the Hôtel Pontévès), and evokes the 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury, which<br />
prece<strong>de</strong>s the gard<strong>en</strong>, with a sparkling, light, precious, dynamic and refined si<strong>de</strong>.<br />
J-M Othoniel uses blown glass as a multicoloured palette to nourish an opul<strong>en</strong>t<br />
and baroque work, as the glass becomes playful, lively, erotic.<br />
At the same time, the gard<strong>en</strong> introduces into the museum visit the industrial<br />
evolution of the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury by pres<strong>en</strong>ting the aromatic plants that ma<strong>de</strong><br />
Grass famous: roses and jasmine. It is important to herald the industrial<br />
era with a strong elem<strong>en</strong>t, to counterbalance the frivolity of the previous<br />
period. Dominique Thév<strong>en</strong>in, a sculptor of movem<strong>en</strong>t, has created a work on<br />
the industrial heritage and its materials. He creates works out of rough,<br />
cru<strong>de</strong>, ess<strong>en</strong>tial metal. Cylindrical masses balance each other along a mysterious<br />
axis, th<strong>en</strong> come to life with the slightest breath of air, leading to a<br />
visual <strong>de</strong>stabilisation in the spectator.<br />
The prints room<br />
Sequ<strong>en</strong>ce 3 of the International Perfume Museum features mechanisation,<br />
industrialisation and mass production, characteristic of the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury,<br />
for perfume bottles, perfume, and labels. At the same time, a space <strong>de</strong>dicated<br />
to the m<strong>en</strong> working in these factories, the “blue collars” and “white collars”,<br />
introduces the lifestyles and working conditions of <strong>Grasse</strong>’s factories.<br />
The artist’s response shows both the sociological si<strong>de</strong> of workers in perfume<br />
factories as well as mass production. A major collection of perfume labels (or<br />
photographs, sketches) contributes to the creation of the two-dim<strong>en</strong>sional<br />
work on the wall.<br />
This interior work by Gérard Collin-Thiebaut will help the visitor to un<strong>de</strong>rstand<br />
industrialisation. “All my work is linked to the same <strong>de</strong>sire, that of addressing<br />
passersby, whoever they may be, to seek them out wherever they are, wh<strong>en</strong><br />
they’re least expecting it, and to be with them in their everyday life.”<br />
Interior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Pear-shaped bottle <strong>de</strong>tail – Opaline – Circa 1840 – France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Interior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 23<br />
Artists’ responses to the various spaces<br />
Press kit MIP
Artists’ responses to the various spaces<br />
Press kit MIP<br />
24<br />
The Head Space<br />
terrace<br />
In his constant search for new<br />
fragrances, ever since the very<br />
first fragrant mixes, man has<br />
never ceased expanding his<br />
olfactory palette. At the <strong>en</strong>d of<br />
the 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury, after the<br />
<strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of synthetic chemistry,<br />
new molecules appeared.<br />
In the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury, joined<br />
by new technologies like gas<br />
chromatography or Head<br />
Space, the world of sc<strong>en</strong>ts<br />
expan<strong>de</strong>d.<br />
In the perfume industry, gas<br />
chromatography makes it possible<br />
to analyse the composition<br />
of a mixture. Head-space as<br />
used in the perfume industry is<br />
a technology for trapping<br />
odours that appeared at the<br />
<strong>en</strong>d of the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury. It is little<br />
known, perhaps ev<strong>en</strong> completely<br />
unknown, to the g<strong>en</strong>eral<br />
public. This technique, which<br />
can be applied anywhere,<br />
consists of passing a gas curr<strong>en</strong>t<br />
over a plant, flower, fruit,<br />
etc., or to bring aromatic substances<br />
into a high vacuum to<br />
trap them in an absorb<strong>en</strong>t layer.<br />
The trapped substances are<br />
analysed and id<strong>en</strong>tified by chromatography<br />
and mass spectrometry<br />
in the laboratory, th<strong>en</strong><br />
recomposed in or<strong>de</strong>r to reproduce the aroma of the flower or fruit analysed.<br />
The artistic approach of Berdaguer & Pejus explores and explains the technical<br />
process, its materials, and the olfactory result obtained. This outdoor<br />
work makes use of all the s<strong>en</strong>ses and will be v<strong>en</strong>tilated to give the greatest<br />
scale to the space.<br />
By putting architecture at the service of art, after having first stripped it<br />
of certain elem<strong>en</strong>ts like functionality, Berdaguer & Pejus have managed to<br />
introduce it into their field of research. In this way their work <strong>de</strong>als with<br />
habitat, behaviour, custom, the relationship betwe<strong>en</strong> thought and reality, or<br />
the failure of Utopia.<br />
The Eternal Gard<strong>en</strong><br />
The Eternal Gard<strong>en</strong> is the counterpart of the 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong>. It<br />
offers, simultaneously, an op<strong>en</strong>ing towards the future and a contemporary<br />
synthesis of the various activities that coexist in the perfume industry.<br />
In or<strong>de</strong>r to recall the rhythm of the 18th and 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury gard<strong>en</strong>, the courtyard<br />
is constructed around a pool by artist Brigitte Nahon on the theme of perfume<br />
bottle materials (glass). The work and its treatm<strong>en</strong>t of the ground and the wall will<br />
play on the complem<strong>en</strong>tary nature of the various mineral materials.<br />
Brigitte Nahon is one of the young artists emerging in the world artistic sc<strong>en</strong>e, as<br />
witness the constantly growing interest of international museums and institutions<br />
in her work.<br />
Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Golli Wogg perfume bottle - Vigny Verre – 1920-France<br />
Vinaigrette – Gold and lapis-lazuli – Circa 1820<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m
Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 25<br />
Dossier <strong>de</strong> presse MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
26<br />
Cinnamon<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
The people behind<br />
the project<br />
P<strong>en</strong>dant salts flask – Porcelain – 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Exterior view – Exit - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />
©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on
J ean-Pierre Leleux<br />
Mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>, Vice-Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />
of the Conseil Général<br />
<strong>de</strong>s Alpes-Maritimes, Presid<strong>en</strong>t<br />
of the Communauté d’Agglomération<br />
Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce.<br />
Jean-Pierre Leleux Leleux was<br />
born in Gh<strong>en</strong>t, Belgium.<br />
In April 1952 his par<strong>en</strong>ts settled<br />
in <strong>Grasse</strong>, in the Saint-<br />
Jacques area, where the May<br />
harvest of jasmine and roses<br />
marked the seasons.<br />
He participated actively in local<br />
organisations and politics. As a<br />
member and later presid<strong>en</strong>t of<br />
the <strong>Grasse</strong> Youth Chamber of<br />
Commerce, he took a passionate<br />
interest in all local topics<br />
and contributed to <strong>de</strong>liberations<br />
on the future of the <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
community (creation of a perfume<br />
museum, launch of an<br />
association forum, childr<strong>en</strong>’s<br />
arts festival, creating pe<strong>de</strong>strian<br />
zones, city ev<strong>en</strong>ts, and<br />
many other projects). All of<br />
these issues tak<strong>en</strong> up by the<br />
YCC and the extra-municipal<br />
committees ma<strong>de</strong> him very<br />
familiar with the difficulties as<br />
well as the expectations of citiz<strong>en</strong><br />
involvem<strong>en</strong>t and politics.<br />
In 1983 he was elected to the<br />
city council and was <strong>de</strong>legated<br />
powers in the area of culture,<br />
tourism and city ev<strong>en</strong>ts, alongsi<strong>de</strong><br />
Mr Francis Huré, former<br />
ambassador and <strong>de</strong>puty mayor.<br />
He was elected presid<strong>en</strong>t of the<br />
Interior view - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong> Fe<strong>de</strong>ration of Tourism <strong>Office</strong>s, which he later turned into the <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
Tourism C<strong>en</strong>tre.<br />
In a by-election in 1987 he was elected Deputy Mayor and was appointed to<br />
oversee the city police, traffic and transport.<br />
In 1989, Jean-Pierre Leleux was elected as member of the G<strong>en</strong>eral Council<br />
and second <strong>de</strong>puty to the mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>. He was re-elected to the G<strong>en</strong>eral<br />
Council in 1992 and was ma<strong>de</strong> chairman of the culture committee and<br />
presid<strong>en</strong>t of the ADEM (Departm<strong>en</strong>tal Music and Dance Delegation). In 1995<br />
he was elected in the municipal elections.<br />
In 1998 he had to give up his seat on the G<strong>en</strong>eral Council but won it back<br />
in <strong>Grasse</strong> North in 2004.<br />
Re-elected mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong> in 2001 th<strong>en</strong> in 2008, he is presid<strong>en</strong>t of the<br />
Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce C<strong>en</strong>tre township committee, created in January 2002, which<br />
<strong>en</strong>compasses the towns of <strong>Grasse</strong>, Auribeau, Pégomas, La Roquette sur<br />
Siagne and Mouans-Sartoux.<br />
He is also presid<strong>en</strong>t of the <strong>Grasse</strong> Hospital C<strong>en</strong>tre, presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Association<br />
of Elected Officials of the Napoleon Route, presid<strong>en</strong>t of SYMEP (Association<br />
of Studies and Planning for preparation of the SCOT). He is also<br />
presid<strong>en</strong>t of the Film Commission, which <strong>en</strong>courages the making of films<br />
on the Côte d’Azur.<br />
In 2004, he was re-elected to the G<strong>en</strong>eral Council, of which he is the Vice-<br />
Presid<strong>en</strong>t, alongsi<strong>de</strong> Christian Estrosi.<br />
Dominique Bourret<br />
Deputy Mayor of <strong>Grasse</strong>, Youth & Cultural Affairs Delegate, Vice-Presid<strong>en</strong>te<br />
for the Pôle Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce.<br />
Involved in the city governm<strong>en</strong>t of <strong>Grasse</strong> since 1987, Dr. Dominique Bourret<br />
is a well-known figure in <strong>Grasse</strong>.<br />
As the <strong>de</strong>puty responsible for culture un<strong>de</strong>r <strong>Grasse</strong>’s Mayor Jean-Pierre<br />
Leleux Maire since 1995, she has progressively str<strong>en</strong>gth<strong>en</strong>ed synergies and<br />
thus improved the consist<strong>en</strong>cy of the city’s overall cultural efforts. She participates<br />
in formulating and implem<strong>en</strong>ting the city’s cultural policies. She<br />
serves as liaison and coordinator for the city’s cultural <strong>de</strong>partm<strong>en</strong>ts and<br />
subsidised cultural institutions. Dominique Bourret contributes to organising<br />
cultural ev<strong>en</strong>ts and coordinates them.<br />
Since the IPM op<strong>en</strong>ed in 1989, she has supported the expansion project<br />
to <strong>en</strong>able the greatest possible use of its remarkable resources and to<br />
thereby contribute to promoting international cultural tourism and the growth<br />
of an extraordinary industry in the midst of a comeback.<br />
Roman lamp shaped room sc<strong>en</strong>ter – Gold<strong>en</strong> bronze<br />
19th c<strong>en</strong>tury – France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Universal bottle, Lalique – Glass and black lights<br />
Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
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The people behind the project<br />
Press kit MIP
The people behind the project<br />
Press kit MIP<br />
28<br />
Marie-Christine<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong><br />
Chief Curator of the museums<br />
of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong>, ,<br />
curator of the museums of the<br />
City of <strong>Grasse</strong>, is responsible<br />
for the International Perfume<br />
Museum, the Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
Museum of Art and History, and<br />
the Fragonard Villa-Museum.<br />
She came to <strong>Grasse</strong> in 1990 to<br />
take charge first of the Perfume<br />
Museum.<br />
Her role is to formulate policy<br />
for these three city museums,<br />
provi<strong>de</strong> sci<strong>en</strong>tific, accounting,<br />
administrative and personnel<br />
managem<strong>en</strong>t for the 40 people<br />
who work with her.<br />
A dynamic woman well known<br />
in the perfume industry on the<br />
supplier and brand si<strong>de</strong>, she<br />
maintains special relationships<br />
with associations and institutional<br />
partners.<br />
With a doctorate in art history<br />
and archaeology and Medieval<br />
civilisation, she teaches at the<br />
National Heritage Institute<br />
(INP) in Paris in lifelong learning.<br />
Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong> is also<br />
in charge of archaeological<br />
excavation sites. She has writt<strong>en</strong><br />
several works since 1985;<br />
many of her works <strong>de</strong>al with<br />
Star anis - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
the perfume industry and its most positive aspects. Her book One of the<br />
S<strong>en</strong>ses, published in 2001 by editions Milan, traces the <strong>de</strong>velopm<strong>en</strong>t of perfume<br />
and brand names in the 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury. Her latest publication on<br />
perfume, in 2003, explores the many facets of Egypt.<br />
Her best sellers inclu<strong>de</strong>:<br />
• 18th C<strong>en</strong>tury Perfumes and Perfume Bottles<br />
• Jasmine, <strong>Grasse</strong>’s Flower<br />
• <strong>Grasse</strong> in Pictures<br />
• Vanillas and Orchids<br />
• Perfumes of Europe<br />
• Living in Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
She is a woman of character who introduces us to the treasures of our heritage<br />
in France and abroad. With the confer<strong>en</strong>ces she arranges, the International<br />
Perfume Museum contributes to the advancem<strong>en</strong>t of research: Evanesc<strong>en</strong>ces,<br />
Fragrances, from <strong>de</strong>sire to pleasure, Olfaction and heritage: how<br />
are they transmitted?, One day, one plant: the Iris, Marketing in question?,<br />
One day, one plant : the Tuberose, One day, one plant: the Bitter Orange,<br />
One day, one plant : the Mimosa (September 2008).<br />
Promoting a forward-looking attitu<strong>de</strong> of discovery is in fact the constant<br />
concern of the International Perfume Museum. Linked to one of the most<br />
prestigious traditional Fr<strong>en</strong>ch industries, it greets visitors and resid<strong>en</strong>ts<br />
alike as a “conservatory of objects that are g<strong>en</strong>uine direct witnesses to<br />
culture and history, the place where they are put on display to meet the<br />
public.”<br />
Likewise, facilitating the link betwe<strong>en</strong> sci<strong>en</strong>ce and society, especially by disseminating<br />
the results of research and by interacting with many differ<strong>en</strong>t<br />
players is one of the major objectives of the sci<strong>en</strong>tific organisers of these<br />
confer<strong>en</strong>ces. These complem<strong>en</strong>tary partners participate in making sci<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
and technology accessible and in providing local lea<strong>de</strong>rship.<br />
Pear-shaped spray bottle – Metal and moul<strong>de</strong>d glass – First<br />
half of 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Lekhythos – Terracotta – Attic - Grece<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
Exterior view MIP - ©Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 29<br />
Dossier <strong>de</strong> presse MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
30<br />
The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for Perfumes,<br />
Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Flavours (PASS)<br />
(cosmetic products, aromatic products)<br />
Bottle <strong>de</strong>signed by Hector Guimard for Milot – Glass<br />
1900 – France© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Adoration bottle perfume and its box, Norman Merle<br />
Cardboard, silk, gold<strong>en</strong> metal – 1940 – USA<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Arlequina<strong>de</strong> bottle, Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine, Glass<br />
1920 - France© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
C ertified by the<br />
governm<strong>en</strong>t in 2005,<br />
the Perfume, Aroma,<br />
Sc<strong>en</strong>t and Savour<br />
(PASS) Competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess<br />
C<strong>en</strong>tre contributes to<br />
the economic dynamism<br />
of the Azur Prov<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
C<strong>en</strong>tre township<br />
committee and beyond<br />
the PACA region.<br />
This competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre is<br />
aimed at bringing together all<br />
of the industry’s international<br />
actors: ingredi<strong>en</strong>t producers,<br />
perfume and sc<strong>en</strong>t industry,<br />
manufacturers, users of<br />
sci<strong>en</strong>tific know-how, research<br />
methods and laboratories.<br />
Strategy<br />
PASS ext<strong>en</strong>ds from <strong>Grasse</strong> and<br />
Sophia-Antipolis to Haute Prov<strong>en</strong>ce,<br />
as far as the Drome Prov<strong>en</strong>çale.<br />
It covers the <strong>en</strong>tire<br />
value chain: from agricultural<br />
activities in the production of<br />
perfume plants and aromatics<br />
to industrial activities in aromas<br />
and perfume making, cosmetics,<br />
and food flavourings.<br />
It is the result of a c<strong>en</strong>tury-old<br />
industrial tradition in perfume<br />
making, of agriculture focusing<br />
Glass wall MIP- © Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />
on horticultural production and aromatic plants, of an economy firmly rooted<br />
in its landscape.<br />
The businesses in this industry have be<strong>en</strong> able to evolve and adapt. Today<br />
they are marked by tradition, ancestral know-how, and mo<strong>de</strong>rnity.<br />
The C<strong>en</strong>tre is supported by und<strong>en</strong>iable advantages :<br />
Significant economic weight :<br />
• The foremost national conc<strong>en</strong>tration of companies producing fragrant<br />
compounds and cosmetics, marked by the pres<strong>en</strong>ce of national lea<strong>de</strong>rs,<br />
• World’s leading area for the production of fragrance plants (world’s leading<br />
producer of lavandin),<br />
• Gross rev<strong>en</strong>ues of 800 million Euros, or 50% of national gross rev<strong>en</strong>ues.<br />
A strong id<strong>en</strong>tity :<br />
• A solid brand image,<br />
• A localisable and localised c<strong>en</strong>tre, closely tied to its host area. All of the<br />
industry’s products and production convey the image of their region.<br />
• Excell<strong>en</strong>t international visibility: the companies in the industry have an<br />
international base and remarkably high export rates: 41% in cosmetics<br />
and perfumery and 57% for the aromatics industry.<br />
A shared will :<br />
• A C<strong>en</strong>tre supported by all of the actors in the industry and the repres<strong>en</strong>tative<br />
organisations, recognised nationally, Europe-wi<strong>de</strong> and internationally,<br />
<strong>en</strong>joying support from local communities<br />
Adapted sci<strong>en</strong>tific pot<strong>en</strong>tial :<br />
• Backed by r<strong>en</strong>owned R&D c<strong>en</strong>tres<br />
• Skilled local workforce<br />
Ambre Antique bottle perfume Lalique for Parfums Coty<br />
Frosted glass – 1910 – France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Salts bottle – Crystal and silver<br />
Middle 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury - France<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
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The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for Perfumes, Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Flavours<br />
Press kit MIP
The competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess c<strong>en</strong>tre for Perfumes, Aromas, Sc<strong>en</strong>ts and Flavours<br />
Press kit MIP<br />
32<br />
Innovation<br />
A major chall<strong>en</strong>ge with variable<br />
features :<br />
- Def<strong>en</strong>sive: compliance with<br />
new regulations, adoption of<br />
consumer quality and safety<br />
standards.<br />
- Off<strong>en</strong>sive: Upstream: varietal<br />
diversity, creation of new products,<br />
r<strong>en</strong>ewal of product lines<br />
during manufacturing processes<br />
(extraction, distillation, formulation..).<br />
- Downstream: packaging, distribution,<br />
relations, consumer<br />
loyalty.<br />
A strategy based on R&D<br />
Perman<strong>en</strong>t regulatory oversight<br />
and informing and lobbying<br />
national, Community and international<br />
public authorities are<br />
necessary. R&D has to be at<br />
the core of company strategy,<br />
especially for the SMEs that are<br />
so numerous in the industry, to<br />
<strong>de</strong>velop new ingredi<strong>en</strong>ts and<br />
aromatic compositions, meeting<br />
the needs of their cli<strong>en</strong>ts<br />
and of consumers in terms of<br />
health, safety and <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>tal<br />
protection.<br />
An effort to pool resources in<br />
common areas will be set up<br />
through the launching of unified<br />
R&D projects.<br />
Vanilla pods - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Bottle <strong>de</strong>signed by Hector Guimard for Milot, <strong>de</strong>tail<br />
Glass – 1900 – France - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Str<strong>en</strong>gth<strong>en</strong> international influ<strong>en</strong>ce<br />
Obviously this economic and strategic oversight is accompanied internationally<br />
by joint communication efforts and actions aimed at shared values/issues<br />
(regional image, nature, etc...). Competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess will be <strong>en</strong>hanced by cost<br />
sharing and the implem<strong>en</strong>tation of c<strong>en</strong>tralised purchasing.<br />
The C<strong>en</strong>tre’s chall<strong>en</strong>ges<br />
• Placing R&D at the heart of company strategies especially for the<br />
many SMEs in the industry.<br />
• Equipping all European actors in the industry (ingredi<strong>en</strong>t producers,<br />
perfume and aroma industry, user manufacturers...) with<br />
sci<strong>en</strong>tific know-how, methods and analytical tools that <strong>en</strong>sure<br />
their competitiv<strong>en</strong>ess in the new regulatory <strong>en</strong>vironm<strong>en</strong>t.<br />
• In the short term, <strong>de</strong>veloping and spreading the knowledge, knowhow<br />
and analytical systems best suited to the requirem<strong>en</strong>ts of<br />
pres<strong>en</strong>t and future European regulation.<br />
• In the long term, building a strong international-level research<br />
c<strong>en</strong>tre for perfumes, aromas, savours and sc<strong>en</strong>ts capable of<br />
attracting the world’s major players in the cosmetics industry to<br />
the Prov<strong>en</strong>ce Alpes Côte d’Azur region.<br />
• Str<strong>en</strong>gth<strong>en</strong>ing the economic weight of the C<strong>en</strong>tre, and its globalisation.<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Figurine perfume bottle repres<strong>en</strong>ting a god<strong>de</strong>ss of<br />
beauty – Bronze – 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Southern India<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
Interior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 33<br />
Press kit MIP
Press kit MIP<br />
34<br />
Association for International Perfume<br />
Museum outreach<br />
(ARMIP)<br />
Spray Nuit <strong>de</strong> Chine – Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine<br />
Paul Poiret – by 1924<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Bourrasque bottle, Le Galion – Colorless glass – 1937<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Azuréa bottle and its box, LT Piver – Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France
S ince it op<strong>en</strong>ed in 1989,<br />
the International Perfume<br />
Museum, a tribute<br />
to the past and future<br />
of <strong>Grasse</strong>’s keynote<br />
industry, has always<br />
received solid support<br />
from the <strong>en</strong>tire profession.<br />
<strong>Grasse</strong>’s manufacturers as well<br />
as the major Fr<strong>en</strong>ch and<br />
foreign perfume houses have<br />
all contributed substantially to<br />
the creation and <strong>en</strong>richm<strong>en</strong>t of<br />
its collections.<br />
Closely involved, they consi<strong>de</strong>r<br />
the museum as both a guardian<br />
of the heritage and a<br />
partner in communication and<br />
training; it therefore became<br />
necessary to set up an association<br />
of fri<strong>en</strong>ds of the<br />
museum, un<strong>de</strong>r the name<br />
A.I.P.M.O.<br />
It curr<strong>en</strong>tly has more than two<br />
hundred members. Active and<br />
retired professionals in the perfume<br />
industry, companies and<br />
individuals make their skills,<br />
know-how and networks of<br />
relationships available to the<br />
Museum.<br />
Kohl case – Wood – Coptic period - Egypt<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Actor and partner of the International Perfume Museum<br />
As part of the agreem<strong>en</strong>t it signed with the City of <strong>Grasse</strong>, the A.I.P.M.O.<br />
each year purchased many perfume-related articles, out of its own funds<br />
with participation by the F.R.A.M., which it th<strong>en</strong> donates to the city.<br />
Through its members, it participates in making the museum’s collections<br />
known, and in safeguarding and disseminating the heritage of the perfume<br />
industry:<br />
• Id<strong>en</strong>tification and study of the collections: inv<strong>en</strong>tory assistance, memoires<br />
on the industry’s tangible and intangible history and heritage,<br />
• Safeguarding of the heritage: rescue and donation of perfume industry<br />
technical hardware, objects and archives that would otherwise be <strong>de</strong>strosyed,<br />
• Dissemination of the heritage: holding seminars, digitising specialised<br />
works (chemistry, techniques), creation of the museum’s Internet site.<br />
In or<strong>de</strong>r to further expand the outreach of the International Perfume<br />
Museum, the A.I.P.M.O. successfully un<strong>de</strong>rtook three projects:<br />
• Creation of a shop selling articles <strong>de</strong>riving from the museum’s collections<br />
and refer<strong>en</strong>ce works on perfume and its associated activities (aromatics,<br />
aromatherapy, cosmetics), published by the museum or by others, and also<br />
available on the Internet.<br />
• Creation of gui<strong>de</strong>d tours, introductory workshops on perfume creation, and<br />
lectures, both at the museum and throughout France and the world.<br />
• Creation of a Culture/Entry project for the public <strong>en</strong>tering or re-<strong>en</strong>tering<br />
the profession.<br />
As part of the expansion and re<strong>de</strong>sign of the International Perfume Museum,<br />
the A.I.O.M.O. continues to actively support the museum, which is pursuing<br />
its activities during the expansion work by holding seminars and outreach<br />
programmes.<br />
Pow<strong>de</strong>r peat – Shaped flask – Crystal and silver gilt<br />
Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury - Germany © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Au Soleil bottle for Lubin – Moul<strong>de</strong>d<br />
transluc<strong>en</strong>t glass tinted in mass – Circa 1925<br />
© MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 35<br />
Association for International Perfume Museum outreach<br />
Press kit MIP
THE INTERNATIONAL PERFUME MUSEM RECEIVES<br />
SUPPORT FROM :<br />
• MINISTÈRE DE LA CULTURE ET DE LA<br />
COMMUNICATION<br />
• DIRECTION RÉGIONALE DES AFFAIRES<br />
CULTURELLES PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE<br />
D’AZUR<br />
• CONSEIL RÉGIONAL PROVENCE-ALPES-<br />
CÔTE D’AZUR<br />
• CONSEIL GÉNÉRAL DES ALPES-MARITIMES<br />
• COMMUNAUTÉ D’AGGLOMÉRATION PÔLE<br />
AZUR PROVENCE<br />
• COMITÉ FRANÇAIS DU PARFUM<br />
• FÉDÉRATION DES INDUSTRIES DE LA<br />
PARFUMERIE<br />
• FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION<br />
• SOCIÉTÉ FRANÇAISE DES PARFUMEURS<br />
Press kit MIP<br />
36<br />
Partners of the<br />
International Perfume Museum<br />
AND SPONSORSHIP FROM :<br />
Education and training<br />
• INSTITUT SUPÉRIEUR INTERNATIONAL DU<br />
PARFUM, DE LA COSMÉTIQUE ET DE L’AROMATIQUE<br />
ALIMENTAIRE (ISIPCA)<br />
• UNIVERSITÉ D’AVIGNON ET DES PAYS DU<br />
VAUCLUSE, LABORATOIRE CULTURE ET COMMUNI-<br />
CATION<br />
• UNIVERSITÉ DE BOURGOGNE, LABORATOIRE SUR<br />
L’IMAGE, LES MEDIATIONS ET LE SENSIBLE EN<br />
INFORMATION COMMUNICATION<br />
• UNIVERSITÉ DE NICE SOPHIA-ANTIPOLIS,<br />
LABORATOIRE D’ANTHROPOLOGIE ET DE<br />
SOCIOLOGIE<br />
Perfumes companies<br />
• CHANEL<br />
• CHRISTIAN DIOR PARFUMS<br />
• GUERLAIN<br />
• HERMÈS<br />
• KALOO PARFUMS<br />
• KENZO PARFUMS<br />
• L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE<br />
• THIERRY MUGLER<br />
• UNILEVER COSMETICS<br />
• YVES SAINT LAURENT PARFUMS<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
Raw materials and composition companies<br />
• ALBERT VIEILLE S.A.S.<br />
• CHARABOT S.A.<br />
• EXPRESSIONS PARFUMÉES S.A.<br />
• FIRMENICH<br />
• FRAGRANCE RESOURCES<br />
• INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS AND FRAGRANCES (I.F.F.)<br />
• MANE<br />
• PAYAN BERTRAND S.A.<br />
• ROBERTET S.A.<br />
Glassmakers/Packaging companies<br />
• SAINT-GOBAIN DESJONQUERES<br />
• TOURNAIRE S.A.<br />
Designers<br />
• AESTHÈTE<br />
• QSLD QU’ON SE LE DISE<br />
• SYLVIE DE FRANCE DESIGNER<br />
And<br />
• ASSOCIATION POUR LE RAYONNEMENT DU MUSÉE<br />
INTERNATIONAL DE LA PARFUMERIE (ARMIP)<br />
• BOUGIE & SENTEUR<br />
• COSMOPROF (SoGeCos S.p.A. – BOLOGNAFIERE GROUP)<br />
• HSBC<br />
• MC DONALD’S<br />
• MICHAEL EDWARDS & CPNY<br />
• OSMOTHÈQUE<br />
• WORLD PERFUMERY CONGRESS
Visuals available for the press<br />
Images of the International Perfume Museum<br />
Statutory refer<strong>en</strong>ce © Musée International <strong>de</strong> la Parfumerie, MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Exterior view MIP - © Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on Interior view project - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France Interior views MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
01 02 03 04<br />
Exterior view MIP - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Glass wall MIP- © Jacques P<strong>en</strong>on<br />
05 06<br />
Exterior view MIP- © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
Interior views - © MIP, <strong>Grasse</strong> - France<br />
07 08 09<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m 37<br />
Press kit MIP
Visuals available for the press<br />
Press kit MIP<br />
10 Star anis 11 2nd – 3rd c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
12 Attic<br />
13<br />
Pear-shaped bottle<br />
Aryballos<br />
Blown glass<br />
Painted terracotta<br />
Syrie<br />
Grece<br />
Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
Perfume bottle<br />
Blown glass<br />
Germany<br />
15 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
16 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
17<br />
Inc<strong>en</strong>se burner<br />
Bernagamot box<br />
Qing Dynasty (late)<br />
Bergamot bark, painted<br />
Cast bronze, <strong>en</strong>graved – China and glazed paper<br />
France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
Ornam<strong>en</strong>tal ring for perfuming hair<br />
Hold cloves<br />
Enamelled silver – Morocco<br />
Late 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
Pocket nécessaire<br />
Metal, bronze, leather, ivory<br />
France<br />
18 Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
Azuréa bottle and its box<br />
LT Piver – France<br />
19 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
P<strong>en</strong>dant salts flask<br />
Porcelain<br />
20 1900<br />
Bottle <strong>de</strong>signed by<br />
Hector Guimard for Milot<br />
21 Early 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
Universal bottle, Lalique<br />
Glass and black lights<br />
France<br />
Glass - France<br />
France<br />
22 Circa 1925<br />
23 First half of 20th c<strong>en</strong>tury 24 1920<br />
25<br />
1920<br />
Au soleil bottle for Lubin<br />
Pear-shaped spray bottle<br />
Arlequina<strong>de</strong> bottle,<br />
Golli Wogg perfume bottle<br />
Moul<strong>de</strong>d transluc<strong>en</strong>t glass Metal and moul<strong>de</strong>d glass<br />
Les Parfums <strong>de</strong> Rosine<br />
Vigny Verre - France<br />
in tinted mass<br />
France<br />
Glass - France<br />
38<br />
14
26 Middle Empire<br />
27 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
28 Attic<br />
29<br />
Ointm<strong>en</strong>t<br />
Figurine perfume bottle repres<strong>en</strong>ting Lekhytos<br />
Carved and polished<br />
A god<strong>de</strong>ss of beauty<br />
terracotta<br />
alabaster pot<br />
Bronze<br />
Grece<br />
Egypt<br />
Southern India<br />
30 Circa 1825<br />
31 Early 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
32 17th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
33<br />
Crystal salts bottle<br />
Pow<strong>de</strong>r peat – Shaped flask Bottle perfume - Glass<br />
France<br />
Crystal and silver gilt<br />
Germany<br />
Bristol/England<br />
34 1910<br />
35 18th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
36 Coptic period<br />
37<br />
Ambre Antique bottle perfume Figurin perfume bottle<br />
Kohl case - Wood<br />
Lalique for Parfums Coty Porcelain<br />
Egypt<br />
Frosted glass<br />
France<br />
Chelsea/England<br />
38 19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
39 Circa 1820<br />
40 1937<br />
41<br />
Cinnamon<br />
Roman lamp shaped room Vinaigrette – Gold and lapis-lazuli Bourrasque bottle, Le Galion<br />
sc<strong>en</strong>ter<br />
Colorless glass<br />
Gold<strong>en</strong> bronze<br />
France<br />
France<br />
T h e w o r l d o f p e r f u m e • w w w . m u s e e s d e g r a s s e . c o m<br />
1928<br />
Perfume bottle Ramses II for Bichara<br />
Glass<br />
France<br />
1940<br />
Adoration bottle perfume and its box,<br />
Norman Merle<br />
Cardboard, silk, gold<strong>en</strong> metal<br />
USA<br />
19th c<strong>en</strong>tury<br />
Poman<strong>de</strong>r<br />
Lapis-lazuli and silver gilt<br />
39<br />
Visuals available for the press<br />
Press kit MIP
musée <strong>de</strong> France<br />
Practical<br />
information Op<strong>en</strong> from 1/10 to 31/05<br />
Wednesday to Monday from 11 to 6 pm<br />
Closed on Tuesday<br />
Publication International Perfume Museum :<br />
edited by Marie-Christine GRASSE.<br />
Perfume a global history,<br />
from the origins to today.<br />
Paris, Somogy Art Publishers, 2008, 296 p.<br />
International Perfume Museum<br />
2, bd. du Jeu <strong>de</strong> Ballon<br />
06130 GRASSE - FRANCE<br />
T - 00 33 (0) 4 97 05 58 00<br />
F - 00 33 (0) 4 97 05 58 01<br />
Web site : www.musees<strong>de</strong>grasse.com<br />
Mail : administration@musees<strong>de</strong>grasse.com<br />
Chief Curator of the museums of the City of <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
Marie-Christine <strong>Grasse</strong><br />
Communication Manager<br />
Brigitte Lamielle<br />
Op<strong>en</strong> from 1/06 to 30/09<br />
Op<strong>en</strong> 7/7 from 10 to 7 pm<br />
Thursday from 10 to 9 pm<br />
Closed on public holidays.<br />
Entry :<br />
Standard rate : 3 euros<br />
Reduce rate : 1,50 euros<br />
(Stud<strong>en</strong>ts, groups of more than 10 people)<br />
Free : Childr<strong>en</strong>, jobseekers, disabled people,<br />
people over 60, journalists<br />
Pass : 5 euros (International Perfume Museum<br />
+ Prov<strong>en</strong>cal Arts & History Museum + Villa J-H Fragonard)<br />
Press relations<br />
Heymann, R<strong>en</strong>oult associées<br />
l.gillion@heymann-r<strong>en</strong>oult.com<br />
T - 00 33 (0) 1 44 61 76 76<br />
F - 00 33 (0) 1 44 61 74 40<br />
Visuals and files downloadable on the site :<br />
www.heymann-r<strong>en</strong>oult.com