Touring Turlough O'Carolan Country and Playing - Mel Bay's ...

Touring Turlough O’Carolan Country and Playing
“Carolan’s Receipt” on Hammered Dulcimer
by Jeanne Page
It is fitting that I pay special tribute to Irish harper/
composer/poet/singer Turlough O’Carolan, for he was
“instrumental” in leading me into the hammered dulcimer
world. Many years ago I was given a mountain dulcimer as
a gift. Not long after, I providentially found a copy of a
dulcimer recording by Joemy Wilson: “Carolan’s Cottage.” I
popped the cassette into my player and sat in a trance. I
was unaware that there were two kinds of dulcimers, and
since there was no photo of the instrument on the cover, I
was completely taken by surprise with the bell-like quality
of these magical strings. As I soaked up the rich melodies,
I became enchanted with the O’Carolan tunes dancing on
air, and with the instrument producing such mesmerizing
tones. I knew that those sounds couldn’t be produced by
the dulcimer in my lap. It had to be something different! I
didn’t know what that instrument looked like, or how to play
one—I just knew that I had to have one! It wasn’t long before I had purchased my first
hammered dulcimer and I began playing my first O’Carolan tune, “Planxty George Brabazon.”
Years later when my husband and I finally journeyed across the pond for a visit to the
Emerald Isle, I knew that touring Turlough O’Carolan country would be high on the sightseeing
priority list. By that time I had long since taken up the harp as well, and my connection
with Carolan had deepened as a result.
We began our O’Carolan portion of the trip in County
Roscommon in the western inlands of the Republic of
Ireland. Our first stop was the tiny town of Keadue
(Ceideadh in Gaelic, translated ‘low lying hill’) that, in
addition to winning the National Title in the “Tidiest Town”
competition, is also the home of the annual O’Carolan
International Harp Festival. Each August musicians from
all over the world descend on this delightful village to pay
homage to Ireland’s favorite bard with concerts,
sessions, workshops, recitals, and the International
O’Carolan Harp Competition. Ten days are devoted to
everything O’Carolan.
It is in this picturesque village that we found the
O’Carolan Heritage Park that was opened in 1993.
This pretty little spot in the middle of the town has
flagstone paths, fountains, and a bronze replica of
Carolan’s harp as the historical centerpiece. A small
Round House on the grounds also features the music of
his first composition “Sidh Beag, Sidh Mor.” Since this
was our first stop, I immediately jumped out of the rental
car and ran up to that bronze statue to count the strings.
Yes, I thought, it looks like it was 36 strings…and not
very large either…at least compared to 36 string harps of

today. I ran my hands over that statue so thrilled to see this replica of the actual instrument
he played! After sitting in the little Round House for a bit and enjoying a quiet moment, it was
back in the car to hunt down our next appointed landmark.
Our journey took us to the nearby village of Ballyfarnon located at the base of the Arigna
Mountains. The Alderford House in Ballyfarnon was built nearly 400 years ago and was owned
by the McDermott Roe family. It was on the grounds of the estate that young Turlough lived
as a boy; it is where he was stricken with blindness as a youth; it is where he received his
first harp lessons due to the kindness of Mrs. McDermott Roe, and it is where he eventually
died. Carolan composed many tunes honoring members of his first patroness and her family.
It is said that at the end of his life, he arrived on her doorstep, quite ill, saying, “I have come
here after all I have gone through to die at home at last, where I got my first schooling, and
my first horse.” He was immediately taken in and tenderly cared for during the week that
preceded his death. Sensing that he was nearing the end, he called for his harp and played
his well-known “Carolan’s Farewell to Music.” His former music pupil Charles O’Conor
recorded his passing: “Saturday, the 25th day of March, 1738. Turlough O’Carolan, the wise
master and chief musician of the whole of Ireland, died today and was buried in the
O’Duignan’s church of Kilronan, in the sixty-eighth year of his age. May his soul find mercy,
for he was a moral and religious man.” His wake lasted for four days and it was reported that
harpers and musicians from all over Ireland assembled, camping out on the grounds
surrounding the mansion. Day and night, O’Carolan tunes wafted out across the hills and
valleys in every direction.
As we drove into Ballyfarnon, we were armed with a few obscure clues that helped us to
locate the Alderford House.
The crumbling iron gate can be seen from the road but most would pass by it without noticing
it, or knowing its historical significance. My husband and I parked the car and climbed over
the tiny fence.

We walked some distance wondering if the house still existed and then suddenly we came
upon it. It was sadly in terrible disrepair.
Like the front gate, the building, too, was crumbling and the land surrounding it was over run
with weeds. Old automobiles, tractors and junk littered the area and I found myself shocked
and disappointed that a home with so much musical history would have been left to such a
fate. We walked all around it and as I looked up to the broken panes of glass, I imagined a
dying Turlough breathing his last in one of those rooms.

As I gazed at the fields of tall grass surrounding the house, I could almost see hundreds of
little campfires each surrounded by fiddlers and harpers paying tribute to Ireland’s National
Composer. We walked silently back to our vehicle, a bit melancholy over the visit.
A few days after Carolan’s death over 60 different clergymen, a number of wealthy patrons
and scores of country friends and admirers attended his funeral. His remains can be found
today at the nearby Kilronan Abbey.
After our visit to Alderford House we stopped to pay our respects to the Grand Musician.
Above the entrance to the tiny graveyard, a stone heading declares “Within this Churchyard
lies interred Carolan, the last of the Irish Bards. He died March 25th, 1738. RIP.

We made our way through the sea of Celtic crosses and found the stone enclosure. The gate
was open and we entered to stand quietly at his burial site. We noticed various tokens, such
as coins and trinkets left around his grave, and one that brought a smile…an empty whiskey
bottle. Those who know Carolan’s history would understand that this silent toast to Turlough is
probably the most fitting tribute. It is said that one doctor scolded Carolan for his liquor
consumption and, for the sake of his health, ordered him to abstain from that point forward.
This unhappy pronouncement was followed by Carolan’s composition “Farewell to Whiskey.”
Carolan did try to follow the doctor’s orders but found that he felt so much worse by doing so;
he fell into a depression and even neglected his music. As chance would have it, he came
across a different physician who provided a “second opinion” and advised Carolan to return to
imbibing as usual. The harper was so thrilled that he wrote one of his most famous tunes,
“Carolan’s Receipt,” in honor of that welcomed physician’s prescription. You can find that
tune at the end of this article for your playing pleasure!
After wishing Turlough a peaceful rest, we returned to our car and headed for the last stop on
our itinerary. I had learned, quite by accident, that upon his death, O’Carolan’s harp had been
bequeathed to the O’Conor family of Connacht—another clan immortalized by the tunes that
he composed in their honor. So we started down another skinny Irish road in search of
Clonalis House in Castlerea. After missing the entrance (more than once) and a series of uturns,
we finally found our way to Clonalis House. Since my husband, Shane, has his roots in
O’Conor ancestry we had another reason for seeking out this historical landmark. These
particular family members are direct descendants of Connacht’s traditional ruling dynasty and
some of Ireland’s last High Kings.

When we arrived, we were the only visitors and so had a
private tour of the house. The paintings and artifacts on
display told a fascinating tale, but I was quite anxious to get
to the room that held my hearts desire! Finally, we turned
the corner of a long hallway and there it was…enclosed in
protective glass. Turlough O’Carolan’s own harp lay on
its back, a chunk of wood gouged out of the very tip, but
other than that, in remarkably good condition. Our young
guide knew that our visit to Clonalis House was primarily to
see this treasure and he was kind enough to let us dawdle
for a very long time. My husband used the opportunity to
pick his brain about more O’Conor history, while I walked round and round the harp taking it
in from all angles. Oh how I longed to break open that box and take it in my arms, pluck a
string or two and caress the wood with my hands. I allowed my imagination to run wild and I
envisioned myself cradling the harp for a few moments, protecting it, while Turlough helped
himself to a shot of whiskey. He would return, thank me for keeping watch over it, and then
begin playing “Planxty Fanny Power” for the enjoyment of all in the room. I would sit in
raptured silence, marveling at this man’s gift of melody. It was hard to tear myself from that
room, especially since our guide was so willing to let me enjoy the moment, but I knew that it
was at last, time to bring our O’Carolan adventure to an end.
As we completed our tour of Turlough O’Carolan country and headed out of County
Roscommon I was glad to have seen first hand a bit of musical history. And I knew it was
only a matter of time before I’d return to do it all again!

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About the Author
Jeanne Page is a native of Albuquerque, New Mexico. She began her lifelong journey into folk
music at age 12, singing and playing the guitar. Since then, she has gravitated to focus
primarily on the hammered dulcimer and Celtic harp. She teaches both instruments privately
and through the University of New Mexico. Jeanne is the director of a youth harp ensemble
called the "Apple Mountain Harp Kids," and co-founded with her husband, Shane, the Apple
Mountain Dulcimer Club and the Apple Mountain Harp Circle. She also directs the "Harps in
Healing Service Program" in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Jeanne has been performing solo and
with the Celtic/Folk band "Heirlooms" since 1992, and has several instructional books
available through Mel Bay Publications:
. Arranging for Hammered Dulcimer, MB98121
. Hammered Dulcimer Chords, MB96675
. Scottish Songbook for Hammered Dulcimer, MB99712
. Tis the Season: Hammered Dulcimer Collection, MB20806
. With This Ring: A Hammered Dulcimer Collection for Weddings and Special Occasions,
MB20805
You can learn more about Jeanne and her recordings and publications at
www.thenextchapter.net or jeannepage@comcast.net. Visit her MySpace at:
http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendID=216168510