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On the runway to success - MCH Group

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WATCHES<br />

■ NEWS.TRENDS<br />

With <strong>the</strong> new Kairos Chronograph<br />

German brand Chronoswiss<br />

reinterprets <strong>the</strong> unique design of <strong>the</strong><br />

line, which was first introduced in<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1990s. The new model features<br />

an au<strong>to</strong>matic movement whose fine<br />

decorations can be admired<br />

through <strong>the</strong> sapphire back.<br />

The sophisticated dial, which<br />

is crafted from sterling silver<br />

and refined with a<br />

wave pattern, displays<br />

<strong>the</strong> day and date at<br />

3 o’clock. The Kairos<br />

Chronograph comes<br />

in a 42 mm stainless<br />

steel or red gold case.<br />

(sz) 1.1, B03<br />

Blued steel hands move above <strong>the</strong><br />

solid guilloché sterling silver dial.<br />

The Dakar Limited Edition watch<br />

from Edox marks <strong>the</strong> brand’s sponsorship,<br />

for <strong>the</strong> next three years, of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Dakar Rally Raid, held in South<br />

America and crossing through Argentina,<br />

Chile and Peru, whose flags are<br />

represented on <strong>the</strong> dial. The dial of<br />

<strong>the</strong> 42 mm stainless-steel watch also<br />

depicts <strong>the</strong> race route in white detail<br />

against <strong>the</strong> backdrop of a black carbon<br />

fibre dial. Functions include hours,<br />

minutes, small seconds and big date.<br />

The movement is Swiss quartz, and it<br />

is water-resistant <strong>to</strong> 100 metres. (cb)<br />

1.0, B17<br />

The Edox Dakar Limited Edition celebrates<br />

<strong>the</strong> road race through South America.<br />

Hand craftsmanship is evident in<br />

<strong>the</strong> masterful Arceau Marqueterie<br />

de Paille from Hermès. The dial<br />

is a composition in straw marquetry,<br />

specifically using rye straw produced<br />

by only one farm in France. The<br />

blue and black motifs in <strong>the</strong> pair of<br />

watches depict two iconic Hermès<br />

tie patterns, featuring chevrons and<br />

tiny squares. It is equipped with<br />

<strong>the</strong> mechanical self-winding calibre<br />

H1928 movement made by <strong>the</strong><br />

manufacture Vaucher exclusively for<br />

Hermès. They are packaged in a<br />

precious Macassar ebony presentation<br />

box, itself adorned with straw<br />

marquetry. (cb) 1.0, B17<br />

The Hermès Arceau Marqueterie de Paille,<br />

a set of white gold watches with strawmarquetry<br />

dials.<br />

Despite <strong>the</strong> effects of 2011’s natural<br />

disasters in Asia, Seiko<br />

expects 2012 <strong>to</strong> be ano<strong>the</strong>r year<br />

of good growth, says Shinji Hat<strong>to</strong>ri,<br />

CEO and president of Seiko<br />

Watch Co. Though not at <strong>the</strong><br />

show due <strong>to</strong> illness, he gave<br />

BWDN this exclusive interview<br />

on where business is strongest<br />

some notable 2012 debuts.<br />

BWDN: Mr. Hat<strong>to</strong>ri, how did <strong>the</strong><br />

terrible earthquake and tsunami in<br />

Japan, and flood in Thailand, in<br />

2011 affect <strong>the</strong> operations of Seiko<br />

Watch Corp.?<br />

SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />

“Growth in every region”<br />

Seiko sales are especially strong in Asia, <strong>the</strong> USA and Middle East<br />

Shinji Hat<strong>to</strong>ri, CEO and president of Seiko Watch Co.<br />

Shinji Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: I’m glad <strong>to</strong> be able<br />

<strong>to</strong> say that <strong>the</strong> tsunami had only a<br />

small effect on our business, and it<br />

was very temporary. The flood in<br />

Thailand, however, submerged our<br />

clock fac<strong>to</strong>ry under two metres of<br />

water. It has had a very significant<br />

effect, and we’re only now recovering.<br />

More importantly, however,<br />

none of our people were hurt or<br />

made sick by <strong>the</strong> flood.<br />

BWDN: How was business for<br />

Seiko in 2011 and what are your<br />

expectations for 2012?<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: 2011 was a strong year for<br />

Seiko, and we experienced good<br />

growth in every region. 2012<br />

should see <strong>the</strong> continuation of<br />

this trend. We have designed our<br />

2012 collection with <strong>the</strong> expectation<br />

that <strong>the</strong> world economy will<br />

soften slightly, so we believe we’re<br />

well positioned for a good year<br />

again, even if <strong>the</strong> market doesn’t<br />

grow significantly.<br />

BWDN: Where do you see <strong>the</strong><br />

Seiko watch brand’s best opportunities<br />

in <strong>the</strong> next 12 months?<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Of course, Asia remains<br />

in <strong>the</strong> lead in terms of growth for<br />

Seiko at <strong>the</strong> moment, but we are<br />

Delightful divers<br />

Stunning new models right here at BASELWORLD<br />

Watches that wea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> elements<br />

are a necessity in <strong>to</strong>day’s active lifestyles.<br />

Divers, in particular, want<br />

watches <strong>the</strong>y can wear under water<br />

and know <strong>the</strong>y’ll be able <strong>to</strong> read<br />

<strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong> dark, measure dive<br />

times and track o<strong>the</strong>r needs. Today’s<br />

watchmakers are determined <strong>to</strong><br />

deliver both form and function in a<br />

dive watch.<br />

Dive watches typically are built of<br />

rugged materials such as steel or<br />

titanium, are water resistant <strong>to</strong><br />

depths deeper than most will<br />

explore, and often offer special<br />

functions useful <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> individual<br />

diver. Typically, dive watches are<br />

COSC-certified chronometers that<br />

have undergone rigorous testing in<br />

various positions and under different<br />

conditions of pressure, temperature,<br />

depth and gravity over a period<br />

of time and are found <strong>to</strong> pass.<br />

Additionally, most dive watches<br />

feature uni-directional rotating bezels<br />

<strong>to</strong> measure elapsed time under<br />

water, most sport luminous hands<br />

and markers, and anti-glare crystals.<br />

Some also are equipped with helium<br />

escape valves and extenders for<br />

<strong>the</strong> bracelets <strong>to</strong> fit over wetsuits.<br />

Indeed, a host of different options<br />

exist in dive watches, with more<br />

being unveiled every day.<br />

New this year from Clerc is <strong>the</strong><br />

Hydroscaph Steel GMT watch that<br />

is water resistant <strong>to</strong> 1,000 metres −<br />

tempting <strong>the</strong> finest divers. The<br />

watch is crafted in <strong>the</strong> signature<br />

octagonal Clerc case in stainless<br />

steel and offers optimum readability.<br />

It houses <strong>the</strong> Calibre C6060<br />

Au<strong>to</strong>matic movement with 28 jewels,<br />

and is equipped with 45 hours<br />

of power reserve.<br />

The watch offers hours, minutes,<br />

seconds, and date, as well as 24-hour<br />

second time zone display. The steel<br />

case is also offered in a black DLC<br />

coated version and is 44.6 mm. The<br />

watch features an au<strong>to</strong>matic helium<br />

valve and anti-reflective sapphire<br />

crystal and caseback for an all<br />

around dive <strong>to</strong>ol.<br />

Tudor Heritage Black Bay is inspired by a<br />

expecting strong sales in <strong>the</strong> USA<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Middle East as well.<br />

BWDN: What are two highlights<br />

of Seiko debuts at BASELWORLD<br />

2012?<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: There are more than two,<br />

but if forced <strong>to</strong> choose, I would<br />

highlight <strong>the</strong> Special Edition<br />

Grand Seiko Hi-beat 36000 and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Sportura chronograph in our<br />

new women’s collection.<br />

BWDN: Seiko launched its clean<br />

energy website in 2011, uses battery-less<br />

mechanical, Kinetic and<br />

Spring Drive technologies, and<br />

supports events like <strong>the</strong> World<br />

Solar Challenge. What’s next?<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Concern for <strong>the</strong> environment<br />

is a core value in everything<br />

we do and we’ll continue <strong>to</strong> focus<br />

development on our ‘green’ technologies.<br />

Seiko Solar had a very<br />

<strong>success</strong>ful year in 2011, and you’ll<br />

see some very exciting new developments<br />

on this watch line in 2012.<br />

BWDN: In 2011, Seiko debuted<br />

<strong>the</strong> Credor Spring Drive Minute<br />

Repeater, <strong>the</strong> line’s first minute<br />

repeater. What’s new for Credor in<br />

2012?<br />

Similarly, Doxa unveils its bold<br />

Sub 4000T Professional watch.<br />

This newest dive watch offers unidirectional<br />

bezel that indicates<br />

decompression s<strong>to</strong>ps in feet <strong>to</strong><br />

guarantee performance. The luminescent<br />

hour markers and hands<br />

make for easy reading against <strong>the</strong><br />

bold orange dial. The watch, water<br />

resistant <strong>to</strong> 1,220 metres, is<br />

equipped with a helium valve at<br />

9 o’clock. Just 200 pieces of this<br />

dive watch are being built, each<br />

with a stainless steel folding clasp<br />

on <strong>the</strong> steel bracelet and a diving<br />

suit extension system.<br />

The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay<br />

is inspired by a diving model that<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: It’s not only in movements<br />

that Credor brings new<br />

ideas. This year, we’re presenting a<br />

watch that revives <strong>the</strong> lost art of<br />

Pique on its dial and it’s quite<br />

remarkable.<br />

BWDN: Seiko recently held Master<br />

Craftsman watchmaking classes<br />

about Grand Seiko in <strong>the</strong> U.S. Is<br />

Seiko planning <strong>to</strong> expand Grand<br />

Seiko’s American luxury market?<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Definitely. The progress<br />

we are making with Grand Seiko<br />

in <strong>the</strong> USA is very pleasing. It is<br />

only two years since we started <strong>to</strong><br />

market Grand Seiko internationally,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>re are already many<br />

leading s<strong>to</strong>res with positive results<br />

with <strong>the</strong> brand.<br />

BWDN: How does BASEL-<br />

WORLD affect Seiko’s business?<br />

Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Each year, we host several<br />

hundred meetings with our retail<br />

partners here, and <strong>the</strong>se meetings<br />

are fundamental <strong>to</strong> our business in<br />

every region. Here we launch our<br />

new international collection ever<br />

year, and it’s <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

date in our calendar.<br />

Interview by William G. Shuster ■<br />

first appeared in 1954. It features a<br />

domed dial with vintage accents, a<br />

domed crystal, and offers a blend<br />

of form and function. The alluring<br />

41 mm stainless steel watch is<br />

water resistant <strong>to</strong> 200 metres.<br />

Luminescent hour markers on <strong>the</strong><br />

dial ensure easy visibility. The burgundy<br />

colour of <strong>the</strong> unidirectional<br />

rotating bezel recalls <strong>the</strong> original<br />

models and is exclusive <strong>to</strong> Tudor.<br />

The Heritage Black Bay features a<br />

new folding clasp for added security<br />

and is delivered with a steel<br />

bracelet and a second black fabric<br />

strap, or with a black fabric strap<br />

and a second strap in aged lea<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

(rn) ■<br />

diving model that first appeared in 1954. Doxa Sub 4000T Professional dives down <strong>to</strong><br />

1,000 metres.<br />

PAGE 8

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