On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
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WATCHES<br />
■ NEWS.TRENDS<br />
With <strong>the</strong> new Kairos Chronograph<br />
German brand Chronoswiss<br />
reinterprets <strong>the</strong> unique design of <strong>the</strong><br />
line, which was first introduced in<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1990s. The new model features<br />
an au<strong>to</strong>matic movement whose fine<br />
decorations can be admired<br />
through <strong>the</strong> sapphire back.<br />
The sophisticated dial, which<br />
is crafted from sterling silver<br />
and refined with a<br />
wave pattern, displays<br />
<strong>the</strong> day and date at<br />
3 o’clock. The Kairos<br />
Chronograph comes<br />
in a 42 mm stainless<br />
steel or red gold case.<br />
(sz) 1.1, B03<br />
Blued steel hands move above <strong>the</strong><br />
solid guilloché sterling silver dial.<br />
The Dakar Limited Edition watch<br />
from Edox marks <strong>the</strong> brand’s sponsorship,<br />
for <strong>the</strong> next three years, of<br />
<strong>the</strong> Dakar Rally Raid, held in South<br />
America and crossing through Argentina,<br />
Chile and Peru, whose flags are<br />
represented on <strong>the</strong> dial. The dial of<br />
<strong>the</strong> 42 mm stainless-steel watch also<br />
depicts <strong>the</strong> race route in white detail<br />
against <strong>the</strong> backdrop of a black carbon<br />
fibre dial. Functions include hours,<br />
minutes, small seconds and big date.<br />
The movement is Swiss quartz, and it<br />
is water-resistant <strong>to</strong> 100 metres. (cb)<br />
1.0, B17<br />
The Edox Dakar Limited Edition celebrates<br />
<strong>the</strong> road race through South America.<br />
Hand craftsmanship is evident in<br />
<strong>the</strong> masterful Arceau Marqueterie<br />
de Paille from Hermès. The dial<br />
is a composition in straw marquetry,<br />
specifically using rye straw produced<br />
by only one farm in France. The<br />
blue and black motifs in <strong>the</strong> pair of<br />
watches depict two iconic Hermès<br />
tie patterns, featuring chevrons and<br />
tiny squares. It is equipped with<br />
<strong>the</strong> mechanical self-winding calibre<br />
H1928 movement made by <strong>the</strong><br />
manufacture Vaucher exclusively for<br />
Hermès. They are packaged in a<br />
precious Macassar ebony presentation<br />
box, itself adorned with straw<br />
marquetry. (cb) 1.0, B17<br />
The Hermès Arceau Marqueterie de Paille,<br />
a set of white gold watches with strawmarquetry<br />
dials.<br />
Despite <strong>the</strong> effects of 2011’s natural<br />
disasters in Asia, Seiko<br />
expects 2012 <strong>to</strong> be ano<strong>the</strong>r year<br />
of good growth, says Shinji Hat<strong>to</strong>ri,<br />
CEO and president of Seiko<br />
Watch Co. Though not at <strong>the</strong><br />
show due <strong>to</strong> illness, he gave<br />
BWDN this exclusive interview<br />
on where business is strongest<br />
some notable 2012 debuts.<br />
BWDN: Mr. Hat<strong>to</strong>ri, how did <strong>the</strong><br />
terrible earthquake and tsunami in<br />
Japan, and flood in Thailand, in<br />
2011 affect <strong>the</strong> operations of Seiko<br />
Watch Corp.?<br />
SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />
“Growth in every region”<br />
Seiko sales are especially strong in Asia, <strong>the</strong> USA and Middle East<br />
Shinji Hat<strong>to</strong>ri, CEO and president of Seiko Watch Co.<br />
Shinji Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: I’m glad <strong>to</strong> be able<br />
<strong>to</strong> say that <strong>the</strong> tsunami had only a<br />
small effect on our business, and it<br />
was very temporary. The flood in<br />
Thailand, however, submerged our<br />
clock fac<strong>to</strong>ry under two metres of<br />
water. It has had a very significant<br />
effect, and we’re only now recovering.<br />
More importantly, however,<br />
none of our people were hurt or<br />
made sick by <strong>the</strong> flood.<br />
BWDN: How was business for<br />
Seiko in 2011 and what are your<br />
expectations for 2012?<br />
Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: 2011 was a strong year for<br />
Seiko, and we experienced good<br />
growth in every region. 2012<br />
should see <strong>the</strong> continuation of<br />
this trend. We have designed our<br />
2012 collection with <strong>the</strong> expectation<br />
that <strong>the</strong> world economy will<br />
soften slightly, so we believe we’re<br />
well positioned for a good year<br />
again, even if <strong>the</strong> market doesn’t<br />
grow significantly.<br />
BWDN: Where do you see <strong>the</strong><br />
Seiko watch brand’s best opportunities<br />
in <strong>the</strong> next 12 months?<br />
Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Of course, Asia remains<br />
in <strong>the</strong> lead in terms of growth for<br />
Seiko at <strong>the</strong> moment, but we are<br />
Delightful divers<br />
Stunning new models right here at BASELWORLD<br />
Watches that wea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> elements<br />
are a necessity in <strong>to</strong>day’s active lifestyles.<br />
Divers, in particular, want<br />
watches <strong>the</strong>y can wear under water<br />
and know <strong>the</strong>y’ll be able <strong>to</strong> read<br />
<strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong> dark, measure dive<br />
times and track o<strong>the</strong>r needs. Today’s<br />
watchmakers are determined <strong>to</strong><br />
deliver both form and function in a<br />
dive watch.<br />
Dive watches typically are built of<br />
rugged materials such as steel or<br />
titanium, are water resistant <strong>to</strong><br />
depths deeper than most will<br />
explore, and often offer special<br />
functions useful <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> individual<br />
diver. Typically, dive watches are<br />
COSC-certified chronometers that<br />
have undergone rigorous testing in<br />
various positions and under different<br />
conditions of pressure, temperature,<br />
depth and gravity over a period<br />
of time and are found <strong>to</strong> pass.<br />
Additionally, most dive watches<br />
feature uni-directional rotating bezels<br />
<strong>to</strong> measure elapsed time under<br />
water, most sport luminous hands<br />
and markers, and anti-glare crystals.<br />
Some also are equipped with helium<br />
escape valves and extenders for<br />
<strong>the</strong> bracelets <strong>to</strong> fit over wetsuits.<br />
Indeed, a host of different options<br />
exist in dive watches, with more<br />
being unveiled every day.<br />
New this year from Clerc is <strong>the</strong><br />
Hydroscaph Steel GMT watch that<br />
is water resistant <strong>to</strong> 1,000 metres −<br />
tempting <strong>the</strong> finest divers. The<br />
watch is crafted in <strong>the</strong> signature<br />
octagonal Clerc case in stainless<br />
steel and offers optimum readability.<br />
It houses <strong>the</strong> Calibre C6060<br />
Au<strong>to</strong>matic movement with 28 jewels,<br />
and is equipped with 45 hours<br />
of power reserve.<br />
The watch offers hours, minutes,<br />
seconds, and date, as well as 24-hour<br />
second time zone display. The steel<br />
case is also offered in a black DLC<br />
coated version and is 44.6 mm. The<br />
watch features an au<strong>to</strong>matic helium<br />
valve and anti-reflective sapphire<br />
crystal and caseback for an all<br />
around dive <strong>to</strong>ol.<br />
Tudor Heritage Black Bay is inspired by a<br />
expecting strong sales in <strong>the</strong> USA<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Middle East as well.<br />
BWDN: What are two highlights<br />
of Seiko debuts at BASELWORLD<br />
2012?<br />
Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: There are more than two,<br />
but if forced <strong>to</strong> choose, I would<br />
highlight <strong>the</strong> Special Edition<br />
Grand Seiko Hi-beat 36000 and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Sportura chronograph in our<br />
new women’s collection.<br />
BWDN: Seiko launched its clean<br />
energy website in 2011, uses battery-less<br />
mechanical, Kinetic and<br />
Spring Drive technologies, and<br />
supports events like <strong>the</strong> World<br />
Solar Challenge. What’s next?<br />
Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Concern for <strong>the</strong> environment<br />
is a core value in everything<br />
we do and we’ll continue <strong>to</strong> focus<br />
development on our ‘green’ technologies.<br />
Seiko Solar had a very<br />
<strong>success</strong>ful year in 2011, and you’ll<br />
see some very exciting new developments<br />
on this watch line in 2012.<br />
BWDN: In 2011, Seiko debuted<br />
<strong>the</strong> Credor Spring Drive Minute<br />
Repeater, <strong>the</strong> line’s first minute<br />
repeater. What’s new for Credor in<br />
2012?<br />
Similarly, Doxa unveils its bold<br />
Sub 4000T Professional watch.<br />
This newest dive watch offers unidirectional<br />
bezel that indicates<br />
decompression s<strong>to</strong>ps in feet <strong>to</strong><br />
guarantee performance. The luminescent<br />
hour markers and hands<br />
make for easy reading against <strong>the</strong><br />
bold orange dial. The watch, water<br />
resistant <strong>to</strong> 1,220 metres, is<br />
equipped with a helium valve at<br />
9 o’clock. Just 200 pieces of this<br />
dive watch are being built, each<br />
with a stainless steel folding clasp<br />
on <strong>the</strong> steel bracelet and a diving<br />
suit extension system.<br />
The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay<br />
is inspired by a diving model that<br />
Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: It’s not only in movements<br />
that Credor brings new<br />
ideas. This year, we’re presenting a<br />
watch that revives <strong>the</strong> lost art of<br />
Pique on its dial and it’s quite<br />
remarkable.<br />
BWDN: Seiko recently held Master<br />
Craftsman watchmaking classes<br />
about Grand Seiko in <strong>the</strong> U.S. Is<br />
Seiko planning <strong>to</strong> expand Grand<br />
Seiko’s American luxury market?<br />
Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Definitely. The progress<br />
we are making with Grand Seiko<br />
in <strong>the</strong> USA is very pleasing. It is<br />
only two years since we started <strong>to</strong><br />
market Grand Seiko internationally,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>re are already many<br />
leading s<strong>to</strong>res with positive results<br />
with <strong>the</strong> brand.<br />
BWDN: How does BASEL-<br />
WORLD affect Seiko’s business?<br />
Hat<strong>to</strong>ri: Each year, we host several<br />
hundred meetings with our retail<br />
partners here, and <strong>the</strong>se meetings<br />
are fundamental <strong>to</strong> our business in<br />
every region. Here we launch our<br />
new international collection ever<br />
year, and it’s <strong>the</strong> most important<br />
date in our calendar.<br />
Interview by William G. Shuster ■<br />
first appeared in 1954. It features a<br />
domed dial with vintage accents, a<br />
domed crystal, and offers a blend<br />
of form and function. The alluring<br />
41 mm stainless steel watch is<br />
water resistant <strong>to</strong> 200 metres.<br />
Luminescent hour markers on <strong>the</strong><br />
dial ensure easy visibility. The burgundy<br />
colour of <strong>the</strong> unidirectional<br />
rotating bezel recalls <strong>the</strong> original<br />
models and is exclusive <strong>to</strong> Tudor.<br />
The Heritage Black Bay features a<br />
new folding clasp for added security<br />
and is delivered with a steel<br />
bracelet and a second black fabric<br />
strap, or with a black fabric strap<br />
and a second strap in aged lea<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
(rn) ■<br />
diving model that first appeared in 1954. Doxa Sub 4000T Professional dives down <strong>to</strong><br />
1,000 metres.<br />
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