WATCHES PAGE 6 ■ NEWS.TRENDS Ever since <strong>the</strong> introduction of <strong>the</strong> legendary Museum’s Watch conceived by artist Nathan George Horwitt more than 60 years ago, a simple dot has been <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical source for many beautiful timepieces for Movado. The brand’s signature design is also reflected in <strong>the</strong> new Concer<strong>to</strong> au<strong>to</strong>matic watch debuting this year. The men’s three-hands watch comes in stainless steel and houses a Swiss au<strong>to</strong>matic movement. <strong>On</strong> its pure black dial <strong>the</strong> famous dot is silver-<strong>to</strong>ned. (sz) 1.0, D01 Timelessly elegant: <strong>the</strong> Movado Concer<strong>to</strong> distinguished by a simple dot. SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012 Focus on independence Patrik Hoffmann, Ulysse Nardin, talks a about <strong>the</strong> new Calibre 118 line It’s been just about a year now since Patrik Hoffmann <strong>to</strong>ok over as CEO at Ulysse Nardin following <strong>the</strong> sudden death of industry legend Rolf Schnyder, and while this year <strong>the</strong> brand houses <strong>the</strong> exciting Calibre 118 (announced last year) in a new Marine line, Hoffmann says it’s all in <strong>the</strong> plan. BWDN: What is your most important release this year? Patrik Hoffmann: We have many new products this year, but <strong>the</strong> most important miles<strong>to</strong>ne for us is <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118, which is now finished and cased in a new model, <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118 Marine Chronometer Manufacture. This Calibre is a Nivarox-free escapement and is made <strong>to</strong>tally in house, with our own DIAMonSil hairspring and silicium technology. The limited edition piece also has an enamel dial that was made in house since we pur- A heavenly spectacle The moon continues <strong>to</strong> delight watch aficionados The moon phase indication is probably <strong>the</strong> most romantic of all <strong>the</strong> watch displays and presents <strong>the</strong> constant waxing and waning of <strong>the</strong> moon in <strong>the</strong> night sky. The moon appears in an everchanging form, from <strong>the</strong> exuberant rounded full moon <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> graceful crescent of <strong>the</strong> new moon, regardless of <strong>the</strong> position of <strong>the</strong> starry sky as it moves around <strong>the</strong> earth. The moon with its immense power has always exerted a strong influence on earth and mankind. It comes as no surprise <strong>the</strong>n that <strong>the</strong> moon phase complication has a long-standing tradition in watchmaking. During <strong>the</strong> Middle Ages, grandiose church <strong>to</strong>wer clocks in various metropolises such as Prague, Lucerne and Paris featured <strong>the</strong> moon phases as well as o<strong>the</strong>r astronomical indications Epos 3391: The moon waxes and wanes at 6 o’clock. like sunrise and sunset, sidereal time and solar and lunar eclipses. Already in <strong>the</strong> 16th century, <strong>the</strong> phases of <strong>the</strong> moon began <strong>to</strong> appear on clocks and later pocket watches. In <strong>the</strong> 1940s, moon phase displays became popular on wrist watches, usually combined with o<strong>the</strong>r calendar features such as <strong>the</strong> day of <strong>the</strong> week, date and month. The emergence of <strong>the</strong> quartz watch in <strong>the</strong> 1970s reduced <strong>the</strong> popularity of mechanical watches and astronomical complication features. However, <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> so-called ‘quartz crisis’ in <strong>the</strong> 1980s led <strong>to</strong> a renaissance of mechanical watches. Swiss manufacturer Blancpain, now part of <strong>the</strong> Swatch <strong>Group</strong>, gave <strong>the</strong> old astronomical complication a sophisticated new look with <strong>the</strong> calibre 6395. The full calendar Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrik Hoffmann. chased Donze’ Cadrans enamel dial maker last year. BWDN: Is <strong>the</strong> new Calibre housed in a new case? Hoffmann: It <strong>to</strong>ok us a while <strong>to</strong> get it right; <strong>the</strong>re was a lot of back and forth on <strong>the</strong> movement, and a little on <strong>the</strong> ultimate case <strong>to</strong> house it in. The first watch in <strong>the</strong> series housing <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118 is with its week day, month and date display was stylised using a full moon on <strong>the</strong> moon phase display in <strong>the</strong> form of a smiling face. The watch was such a <strong>success</strong> that many o<strong>the</strong>r manufacturers as well as Blancpain made it a fixed part of <strong>the</strong>ir collection. Maurice Lacroix has been specialising in moon indication and retrograde displays for many years. The new Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde featuring a brand-new au<strong>to</strong>matic movement, <strong>the</strong> ML 192, combines <strong>the</strong>se two charming complications. But that’s not all you get: <strong>the</strong>re is also a power reserve, a date display and a day-of-<strong>the</strong>-week indication. The new timekeeper comes in a 43 mm stainless steel case with different dial options. The Admiral’s Cup is Corum’s recognised flagship and draws on tradition spanning Corum Admiral’s Cup 38 Legend Mystery Moon. <strong>the</strong> iconic Marine Chronometer Manufacture case. We are making a limited edition of 350 pieces in gold with a white enameled dial, and a regular series in titanium and ceramic, and in titanium and steel. BWDN: In addition <strong>to</strong> this being a new Calibre, why is this line so important? Hoffmann: With this movement we prove we can remain independent − it is a tremendous step for us. This is <strong>the</strong> most important part for us − our independence. So this is <strong>the</strong> start of a new era for us because we are really turning now <strong>to</strong> in-house production, not of a few hundred pieces a year, but of a few thousand. BWDN: And was this part of Rolf’s plan? Hoffmann: The decision <strong>to</strong> do this was in place two and a half years ago. That’s when we really more than 50 years. Closely bound up with <strong>the</strong> world of sailing, <strong>the</strong> range has a new member addressing women who have also a passion for <strong>the</strong> moon. The Admiral’s Cup 38 Legend Mystery Moon, with its sophisticated mo<strong>the</strong>r-of-pearl dial with eccentric sun ray pattern and its octagonal stainless steel case adorned with 72 diamonds, also a piece of haute joaillerie, offers <strong>the</strong> fascinating spectacle of two jumping displays: <strong>the</strong> moon phase, located at 7 o’clock, and <strong>the</strong> opposite date at 2 o’clock. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, <strong>the</strong> disc of <strong>the</strong> moon Blancpain has a strong connection with <strong>the</strong> display of <strong>the</strong> moon phases. <strong>to</strong>ok <strong>the</strong> step <strong>to</strong>ward making our own base Manufacture Calibre. The investment really started back <strong>the</strong>n, so it part of <strong>the</strong> plan. BWDN: Is <strong>the</strong>re a plan for additional Calibre 118 watches? Hoffmann: Because <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118 is an integrated base movement, we can add on modules <strong>to</strong> modify it and <strong>to</strong> add small complications going forward. This is just <strong>the</strong> first in <strong>the</strong> series. BWDN: Will Ulysse Nardin continue with additional repeaters, or with projects with Oechslin? Hoffmann: Yes, that is part of our heritage and who we are. We already have an exciting complicated piece that will be ready in <strong>the</strong> fall of this year. And we are well underway with ano<strong>the</strong>r project with Ludwig Oechslin, which may be ready in 2014. Interview by Roberta Naas ■ The Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde from Maurice Lacroix offers captivating functions: a retro- grade date indication, a moon phase and a weekday display as well as a power reserve. phase rotates, <strong>to</strong>o. Six diamonds representing <strong>the</strong> stars in <strong>the</strong> sky fur<strong>the</strong>r highlight <strong>the</strong> luxurious appearance. The midnight blue dial of <strong>the</strong> 3391 by Epos also offers a magnificent showcase <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> moon and its many faces. It is strewn with white dots that form a starry sky. The timepiece also offers <strong>the</strong> indications of <strong>the</strong> day, month and date. (sz) ■
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