On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
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WATCHES PAGE 6<br />
■ NEWS.TRENDS<br />
Ever since <strong>the</strong> introduction of <strong>the</strong> legendary<br />
Museum’s Watch conceived<br />
by artist Nathan George Horwitt<br />
more than 60 years ago, a simple<br />
dot has been <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical source<br />
for many beautiful timepieces for<br />
Movado. The brand’s signature<br />
design is also reflected in <strong>the</strong> new<br />
Concer<strong>to</strong> au<strong>to</strong>matic watch debuting<br />
this year. The men’s three-hands<br />
watch comes in stainless steel and<br />
houses a Swiss au<strong>to</strong>matic movement.<br />
<strong>On</strong> its pure black dial <strong>the</strong> famous dot<br />
is silver-<strong>to</strong>ned. (sz) 1.0, D01<br />
Timelessly elegant: <strong>the</strong> Movado Concer<strong>to</strong><br />
distinguished by a simple dot.<br />
SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />
Focus on independence<br />
Patrik Hoffmann, Ulysse Nardin, talks a about <strong>the</strong> new Calibre 118 line<br />
It’s been just about a year now<br />
since Patrik Hoffmann <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
over as CEO at Ulysse Nardin<br />
following <strong>the</strong> sudden death of<br />
industry legend Rolf Schnyder,<br />
and while this year <strong>the</strong> brand<br />
houses <strong>the</strong> exciting Calibre 118<br />
(announced last year) in a new<br />
Marine line, Hoffmann says it’s<br />
all in <strong>the</strong> plan.<br />
BWDN: What is your most<br />
important release this year?<br />
Patrik Hoffmann: We have many<br />
new products this year, but <strong>the</strong><br />
most important miles<strong>to</strong>ne for<br />
us is <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118, which is<br />
now finished and cased in a new<br />
model, <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118 Marine<br />
Chronometer Manufacture. This<br />
Calibre is a Nivarox-free escapement<br />
and is made <strong>to</strong>tally in<br />
house, with our own DIAMonSil<br />
hairspring and silicium technology.<br />
The limited edition piece<br />
also has an enamel dial that was<br />
made in house since we pur-<br />
A heavenly spectacle<br />
The moon continues <strong>to</strong> delight watch aficionados<br />
The moon phase indication is<br />
probably <strong>the</strong> most romantic of all<br />
<strong>the</strong> watch displays and presents<br />
<strong>the</strong> constant waxing and waning<br />
of <strong>the</strong> moon in <strong>the</strong> night sky.<br />
The moon appears in an everchanging<br />
form, from <strong>the</strong> exuberant<br />
rounded full moon <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> graceful crescent of <strong>the</strong> new<br />
moon, regardless of <strong>the</strong> position<br />
of <strong>the</strong> starry sky as it moves<br />
around <strong>the</strong> earth. The moon with<br />
its immense power has always<br />
exerted a strong influence on<br />
earth and mankind.<br />
It comes as no surprise <strong>the</strong>n that<br />
<strong>the</strong> moon phase complication<br />
has a long-standing tradition in<br />
watchmaking. During <strong>the</strong> Middle<br />
Ages, grandiose church <strong>to</strong>wer<br />
clocks in various metropolises<br />
such as Prague, Lucerne and Paris<br />
featured <strong>the</strong> moon phases as well<br />
as o<strong>the</strong>r astronomical indications<br />
Epos 3391: The moon waxes and wanes at 6 o’clock.<br />
like sunrise and sunset, sidereal<br />
time and solar and lunar eclipses.<br />
Already in <strong>the</strong> 16th century, <strong>the</strong><br />
phases of <strong>the</strong> moon began <strong>to</strong><br />
appear on clocks and later pocket<br />
watches. In <strong>the</strong> 1940s, moon<br />
phase displays became popular<br />
on wrist watches, usually combined<br />
with o<strong>the</strong>r calendar features<br />
such as <strong>the</strong> day of <strong>the</strong> week,<br />
date and month.<br />
The emergence of <strong>the</strong> quartz<br />
watch in <strong>the</strong> 1970s reduced <strong>the</strong><br />
popularity of mechanical watches<br />
and astronomical complication<br />
features. However, <strong>the</strong> end of<br />
<strong>the</strong> so-called ‘quartz crisis’ in<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1980s led <strong>to</strong> a renaissance of<br />
mechanical watches. Swiss manufacturer<br />
Blancpain, now part<br />
of <strong>the</strong> Swatch <strong>Group</strong>, gave <strong>the</strong><br />
old astronomical complication a<br />
sophisticated new look with <strong>the</strong><br />
calibre 6395. The full calendar<br />
Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrik Hoffmann.<br />
chased Donze’ Cadrans enamel<br />
dial maker last year.<br />
BWDN: Is <strong>the</strong> new Calibre<br />
housed in a new case?<br />
Hoffmann: It <strong>to</strong>ok us a while <strong>to</strong><br />
get it right; <strong>the</strong>re was a lot of back<br />
and forth on <strong>the</strong> movement, and<br />
a little on <strong>the</strong> ultimate case <strong>to</strong><br />
house it in. The first watch in <strong>the</strong><br />
series housing <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118 is<br />
with its week day, month and<br />
date display was stylised using a<br />
full moon on <strong>the</strong> moon phase<br />
display in <strong>the</strong> form of a smiling<br />
face. The watch was such a <strong>success</strong><br />
that many o<strong>the</strong>r manufacturers<br />
as well as Blancpain made it a<br />
fixed part of <strong>the</strong>ir collection.<br />
Maurice Lacroix has been specialising<br />
in moon indication and retrograde<br />
displays for many years. The<br />
new Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde<br />
featuring a brand-new au<strong>to</strong>matic<br />
movement, <strong>the</strong> ML 192, combines<br />
<strong>the</strong>se two charming complications.<br />
But that’s not all you get: <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
also a power reserve, a date display<br />
and a day-of-<strong>the</strong>-week indication.<br />
The new timekeeper comes in a 43<br />
mm stainless steel case with different<br />
dial options.<br />
The Admiral’s Cup is Corum’s<br />
recognised flagship and<br />
draws on tradition spanning<br />
Corum Admiral’s Cup 38 Legend Mystery Moon.<br />
<strong>the</strong> iconic Marine Chronometer<br />
Manufacture case. We are making<br />
a limited edition of 350 pieces in<br />
gold with a white enameled dial,<br />
and a regular series in titanium<br />
and ceramic, and in titanium<br />
and steel.<br />
BWDN: In addition <strong>to</strong> this being<br />
a new Calibre, why is this line so<br />
important?<br />
Hoffmann: With this movement<br />
we prove we can remain independent<br />
− it is a tremendous step<br />
for us. This is <strong>the</strong> most important<br />
part for us − our independence.<br />
So this is <strong>the</strong> start of a new era<br />
for us because we are really turning<br />
now <strong>to</strong> in-house production,<br />
not of a few hundred pieces a<br />
year, but of a few thousand.<br />
BWDN: And was this part of<br />
Rolf’s plan?<br />
Hoffmann: The decision <strong>to</strong> do<br />
this was in place two and a half<br />
years ago. That’s when we really<br />
more than 50<br />
years. Closely<br />
bound up with<br />
<strong>the</strong> world of<br />
sailing, <strong>the</strong><br />
range has a new<br />
member addressing<br />
women who<br />
have also a passion<br />
for <strong>the</strong> moon. The<br />
Admiral’s Cup 38<br />
Legend Mystery Moon,<br />
with its sophisticated<br />
mo<strong>the</strong>r-of-pearl dial<br />
with eccentric sun ray<br />
pattern and its octagonal<br />
stainless steel case adorned<br />
with 72 diamonds, also a piece<br />
of haute joaillerie, offers <strong>the</strong> fascinating<br />
spectacle of two jumping<br />
displays: <strong>the</strong> moon phase,<br />
located at 7 o’clock, and <strong>the</strong><br />
opposite date at 2 o’clock. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore,<br />
<strong>the</strong> disc of <strong>the</strong> moon<br />
Blancpain has a strong connection with <strong>the</strong> display of <strong>the</strong> moon phases.<br />
<strong>to</strong>ok <strong>the</strong> step <strong>to</strong>ward making<br />
our own base Manufacture Calibre.<br />
The investment really started<br />
back <strong>the</strong>n, so it part of <strong>the</strong> plan.<br />
BWDN: Is <strong>the</strong>re a plan for additional<br />
Calibre 118 watches?<br />
Hoffmann: Because <strong>the</strong> Calibre<br />
118 is an integrated base movement,<br />
we can add on modules <strong>to</strong><br />
modify it and <strong>to</strong> add small complications<br />
going forward. This is<br />
just <strong>the</strong> first in <strong>the</strong> series.<br />
BWDN: Will Ulysse Nardin continue<br />
with additional repeaters,<br />
or with projects with Oechslin?<br />
Hoffmann: Yes, that is part of<br />
our heritage and who we are. We<br />
already have an exciting complicated<br />
piece that will be ready<br />
in <strong>the</strong> fall of this year. And we<br />
are well underway with ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />
project with Ludwig Oechslin,<br />
which may be ready in 2014.<br />
Interview by Roberta Naas ■<br />
The Masterpiece Lune<br />
Rétrograde from<br />
Maurice Lacroix<br />
offers captivating<br />
functions: a retro-<br />
grade date indication,<br />
a moon phase and a<br />
weekday display as well as a<br />
power reserve.<br />
phase rotates, <strong>to</strong>o. Six<br />
diamonds representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> stars in <strong>the</strong> sky fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />
highlight <strong>the</strong> luxurious<br />
appearance.<br />
The midnight blue dial of<br />
<strong>the</strong> 3391 by Epos also offers<br />
a magnificent showcase <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
moon and its many faces. It is<br />
strewn with white dots that form<br />
a starry sky. The timepiece also<br />
offers <strong>the</strong> indications of <strong>the</strong> day,<br />
month and date. (sz) ■