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On the runway to success - MCH Group

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WATCHES PAGE 6<br />

■ NEWS.TRENDS<br />

Ever since <strong>the</strong> introduction of <strong>the</strong> legendary<br />

Museum’s Watch conceived<br />

by artist Nathan George Horwitt<br />

more than 60 years ago, a simple<br />

dot has been <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical source<br />

for many beautiful timepieces for<br />

Movado. The brand’s signature<br />

design is also reflected in <strong>the</strong> new<br />

Concer<strong>to</strong> au<strong>to</strong>matic watch debuting<br />

this year. The men’s three-hands<br />

watch comes in stainless steel and<br />

houses a Swiss au<strong>to</strong>matic movement.<br />

<strong>On</strong> its pure black dial <strong>the</strong> famous dot<br />

is silver-<strong>to</strong>ned. (sz) 1.0, D01<br />

Timelessly elegant: <strong>the</strong> Movado Concer<strong>to</strong><br />

distinguished by a simple dot.<br />

SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />

Focus on independence<br />

Patrik Hoffmann, Ulysse Nardin, talks a about <strong>the</strong> new Calibre 118 line<br />

It’s been just about a year now<br />

since Patrik Hoffmann <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

over as CEO at Ulysse Nardin<br />

following <strong>the</strong> sudden death of<br />

industry legend Rolf Schnyder,<br />

and while this year <strong>the</strong> brand<br />

houses <strong>the</strong> exciting Calibre 118<br />

(announced last year) in a new<br />

Marine line, Hoffmann says it’s<br />

all in <strong>the</strong> plan.<br />

BWDN: What is your most<br />

important release this year?<br />

Patrik Hoffmann: We have many<br />

new products this year, but <strong>the</strong><br />

most important miles<strong>to</strong>ne for<br />

us is <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118, which is<br />

now finished and cased in a new<br />

model, <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118 Marine<br />

Chronometer Manufacture. This<br />

Calibre is a Nivarox-free escapement<br />

and is made <strong>to</strong>tally in<br />

house, with our own DIAMonSil<br />

hairspring and silicium technology.<br />

The limited edition piece<br />

also has an enamel dial that was<br />

made in house since we pur-<br />

A heavenly spectacle<br />

The moon continues <strong>to</strong> delight watch aficionados<br />

The moon phase indication is<br />

probably <strong>the</strong> most romantic of all<br />

<strong>the</strong> watch displays and presents<br />

<strong>the</strong> constant waxing and waning<br />

of <strong>the</strong> moon in <strong>the</strong> night sky.<br />

The moon appears in an everchanging<br />

form, from <strong>the</strong> exuberant<br />

rounded full moon <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> graceful crescent of <strong>the</strong> new<br />

moon, regardless of <strong>the</strong> position<br />

of <strong>the</strong> starry sky as it moves<br />

around <strong>the</strong> earth. The moon with<br />

its immense power has always<br />

exerted a strong influence on<br />

earth and mankind.<br />

It comes as no surprise <strong>the</strong>n that<br />

<strong>the</strong> moon phase complication<br />

has a long-standing tradition in<br />

watchmaking. During <strong>the</strong> Middle<br />

Ages, grandiose church <strong>to</strong>wer<br />

clocks in various metropolises<br />

such as Prague, Lucerne and Paris<br />

featured <strong>the</strong> moon phases as well<br />

as o<strong>the</strong>r astronomical indications<br />

Epos 3391: The moon waxes and wanes at 6 o’clock.<br />

like sunrise and sunset, sidereal<br />

time and solar and lunar eclipses.<br />

Already in <strong>the</strong> 16th century, <strong>the</strong><br />

phases of <strong>the</strong> moon began <strong>to</strong><br />

appear on clocks and later pocket<br />

watches. In <strong>the</strong> 1940s, moon<br />

phase displays became popular<br />

on wrist watches, usually combined<br />

with o<strong>the</strong>r calendar features<br />

such as <strong>the</strong> day of <strong>the</strong> week,<br />

date and month.<br />

The emergence of <strong>the</strong> quartz<br />

watch in <strong>the</strong> 1970s reduced <strong>the</strong><br />

popularity of mechanical watches<br />

and astronomical complication<br />

features. However, <strong>the</strong> end of<br />

<strong>the</strong> so-called ‘quartz crisis’ in<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1980s led <strong>to</strong> a renaissance of<br />

mechanical watches. Swiss manufacturer<br />

Blancpain, now part<br />

of <strong>the</strong> Swatch <strong>Group</strong>, gave <strong>the</strong><br />

old astronomical complication a<br />

sophisticated new look with <strong>the</strong><br />

calibre 6395. The full calendar<br />

Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrik Hoffmann.<br />

chased Donze’ Cadrans enamel<br />

dial maker last year.<br />

BWDN: Is <strong>the</strong> new Calibre<br />

housed in a new case?<br />

Hoffmann: It <strong>to</strong>ok us a while <strong>to</strong><br />

get it right; <strong>the</strong>re was a lot of back<br />

and forth on <strong>the</strong> movement, and<br />

a little on <strong>the</strong> ultimate case <strong>to</strong><br />

house it in. The first watch in <strong>the</strong><br />

series housing <strong>the</strong> Calibre 118 is<br />

with its week day, month and<br />

date display was stylised using a<br />

full moon on <strong>the</strong> moon phase<br />

display in <strong>the</strong> form of a smiling<br />

face. The watch was such a <strong>success</strong><br />

that many o<strong>the</strong>r manufacturers<br />

as well as Blancpain made it a<br />

fixed part of <strong>the</strong>ir collection.<br />

Maurice Lacroix has been specialising<br />

in moon indication and retrograde<br />

displays for many years. The<br />

new Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde<br />

featuring a brand-new au<strong>to</strong>matic<br />

movement, <strong>the</strong> ML 192, combines<br />

<strong>the</strong>se two charming complications.<br />

But that’s not all you get: <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

also a power reserve, a date display<br />

and a day-of-<strong>the</strong>-week indication.<br />

The new timekeeper comes in a 43<br />

mm stainless steel case with different<br />

dial options.<br />

The Admiral’s Cup is Corum’s<br />

recognised flagship and<br />

draws on tradition spanning<br />

Corum Admiral’s Cup 38 Legend Mystery Moon.<br />

<strong>the</strong> iconic Marine Chronometer<br />

Manufacture case. We are making<br />

a limited edition of 350 pieces in<br />

gold with a white enameled dial,<br />

and a regular series in titanium<br />

and ceramic, and in titanium<br />

and steel.<br />

BWDN: In addition <strong>to</strong> this being<br />

a new Calibre, why is this line so<br />

important?<br />

Hoffmann: With this movement<br />

we prove we can remain independent<br />

− it is a tremendous step<br />

for us. This is <strong>the</strong> most important<br />

part for us − our independence.<br />

So this is <strong>the</strong> start of a new era<br />

for us because we are really turning<br />

now <strong>to</strong> in-house production,<br />

not of a few hundred pieces a<br />

year, but of a few thousand.<br />

BWDN: And was this part of<br />

Rolf’s plan?<br />

Hoffmann: The decision <strong>to</strong> do<br />

this was in place two and a half<br />

years ago. That’s when we really<br />

more than 50<br />

years. Closely<br />

bound up with<br />

<strong>the</strong> world of<br />

sailing, <strong>the</strong><br />

range has a new<br />

member addressing<br />

women who<br />

have also a passion<br />

for <strong>the</strong> moon. The<br />

Admiral’s Cup 38<br />

Legend Mystery Moon,<br />

with its sophisticated<br />

mo<strong>the</strong>r-of-pearl dial<br />

with eccentric sun ray<br />

pattern and its octagonal<br />

stainless steel case adorned<br />

with 72 diamonds, also a piece<br />

of haute joaillerie, offers <strong>the</strong> fascinating<br />

spectacle of two jumping<br />

displays: <strong>the</strong> moon phase,<br />

located at 7 o’clock, and <strong>the</strong><br />

opposite date at 2 o’clock. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore,<br />

<strong>the</strong> disc of <strong>the</strong> moon<br />

Blancpain has a strong connection with <strong>the</strong> display of <strong>the</strong> moon phases.<br />

<strong>to</strong>ok <strong>the</strong> step <strong>to</strong>ward making<br />

our own base Manufacture Calibre.<br />

The investment really started<br />

back <strong>the</strong>n, so it part of <strong>the</strong> plan.<br />

BWDN: Is <strong>the</strong>re a plan for additional<br />

Calibre 118 watches?<br />

Hoffmann: Because <strong>the</strong> Calibre<br />

118 is an integrated base movement,<br />

we can add on modules <strong>to</strong><br />

modify it and <strong>to</strong> add small complications<br />

going forward. This is<br />

just <strong>the</strong> first in <strong>the</strong> series.<br />

BWDN: Will Ulysse Nardin continue<br />

with additional repeaters,<br />

or with projects with Oechslin?<br />

Hoffmann: Yes, that is part of<br />

our heritage and who we are. We<br />

already have an exciting complicated<br />

piece that will be ready<br />

in <strong>the</strong> fall of this year. And we<br />

are well underway with ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

project with Ludwig Oechslin,<br />

which may be ready in 2014.<br />

Interview by Roberta Naas ■<br />

The Masterpiece Lune<br />

Rétrograde from<br />

Maurice Lacroix<br />

offers captivating<br />

functions: a retro-<br />

grade date indication,<br />

a moon phase and a<br />

weekday display as well as a<br />

power reserve.<br />

phase rotates, <strong>to</strong>o. Six<br />

diamonds representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> stars in <strong>the</strong> sky fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />

highlight <strong>the</strong> luxurious<br />

appearance.<br />

The midnight blue dial of<br />

<strong>the</strong> 3391 by Epos also offers<br />

a magnificent showcase <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

moon and its many faces. It is<br />

strewn with white dots that form<br />

a starry sky. The timepiece also<br />

offers <strong>the</strong> indications of <strong>the</strong> day,<br />

month and date. (sz) ■

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