On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
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WATCHES PAGE 4<br />
Walter von Känel, president<br />
of Swiss luxury watch brand<br />
Longines, tells BWDN how it is<br />
marking its 180th anniversary,<br />
talks about timepieces based on<br />
its watchmaking heritage, spotlights<br />
its strongest markets, and<br />
tells why support of equestrian<br />
sports is important <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> brand.<br />
BWDN: How was Longines’ business<br />
in 2011; what do you expect<br />
in 2012?<br />
Walter von Känel: It was an<br />
excellent year for <strong>the</strong> Swiss watch<br />
industry, for <strong>the</strong> Swatch <strong>Group</strong><br />
and for Longines. Our aim for<br />
2012 is <strong>to</strong> keep going on.<br />
BWDN: Where are Longines’<br />
best opportunities in <strong>the</strong> next 12<br />
months?<br />
von Känel: Greater China,<br />
Europe and <strong>the</strong> U.S.A. are currently<br />
<strong>the</strong> strongest markets. Our<br />
strategies in <strong>the</strong> fields of product<br />
development, marketing and<br />
pricing are matching <strong>the</strong> needs of<br />
<strong>the</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mers in <strong>the</strong>se regions.<br />
We are present in almost all <strong>the</strong><br />
countries. The BRIC countries<br />
SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />
180 years of elegant performance<br />
Successful strategies are driving Longines’ sales<br />
Walter von Känel, president Longines.<br />
(Brazil, Russia, India and China)<br />
are doing well, or even very well,<br />
except for Brazil where we have<br />
<strong>to</strong> reconsider our strategy.<br />
BWDN: Longines is <strong>the</strong> timekeeper<br />
and/or sponsor of a<br />
number of equestrian sporting<br />
activities, including elite events<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Middle East, China, Germany<br />
and England. Why is this<br />
important <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> brand?<br />
von Känel: Longines has been<br />
active in equestrian disciplines<br />
for many decades. We’ve cho-<br />
sen <strong>to</strong> be involved in equestrian<br />
events − that is, horseracing,<br />
show-jumping and endurance races<br />
− <strong>to</strong> stress <strong>the</strong>se sports’ aes<strong>the</strong>tic<br />
appeal and human qualities,<br />
which dovetail with our products’<br />
essential qualities. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore,<br />
<strong>the</strong>se sports express <strong>the</strong> values of<br />
elegance, tradition and performance<br />
that are dear <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> brand.<br />
BWDN: In recent years, Longines<br />
debuted a number of watches −<br />
such as its Lindbergh Atlantic<br />
Voyage watches − based on classic<br />
Longines timepieces. What<br />
new watches drawn from its<br />
watchmaking heritage are being<br />
shown this year?<br />
Känel: We’ve been re-issuing heritage<br />
pieces for quite a long time<br />
now, and have a strong legitimacy<br />
in this segment. As Longines is<br />
celebrating its 180th anniversary<br />
this year, we’re going <strong>to</strong> launch<br />
several re-editions of heritage<br />
pieces enhancing <strong>the</strong> rich his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
of Longines.<br />
BWDN: What else is Longines<br />
spotlighting here?<br />
The new dawn of pilot’s pieces<br />
For serious pilots or weekend pilots – a host of new watches take off from <strong>the</strong> show<br />
Pilot watches aren’t new. In fact<br />
<strong>the</strong>y have enjoyed a century of<br />
fame − accompanying explorers<br />
such as Charles Lindbergh<br />
and Amelia Earnhardt on <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
quests. Today’s <strong>to</strong>p watch brands<br />
offer a competitive edge with<br />
precision and functions a pilot<br />
may need in <strong>the</strong> field. Additionally,<br />
most are venturing in<strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> world of high-tech materials<br />
<strong>to</strong> clad <strong>the</strong>se watches − making<br />
<strong>the</strong>m ever more rugged and reliable<br />
and readable.<br />
Breitling unveils <strong>the</strong> Chronomat<br />
44 GMT in a new diameter. The<br />
watch houses <strong>the</strong> COSC-certified<br />
chronometer 04 Calibre manufactured<br />
entirely in house by Brei-<br />
tling. It offers hours, minutes,<br />
seconds, date, second time zone<br />
and third time zone on <strong>the</strong> bezel,<br />
chronograph <strong>to</strong> ¼ of a second,<br />
30-minutes and 12 hours, and<br />
tachymeter bezel − all in a magnificent<br />
44 mm stainless steel case.<br />
New from Vogard is <strong>the</strong> Datezoner<br />
Pilot watch − an amazing<br />
technical functioning watch that<br />
is <strong>the</strong> only watch <strong>to</strong> change date<br />
and time zones via <strong>the</strong> bezel.<br />
The date is set via <strong>the</strong> bezel<br />
and is synchronized with <strong>the</strong><br />
time zones and <strong>the</strong> cities on<br />
<strong>the</strong> bezel. The unique, patented<br />
mechanism ensures that <strong>the</strong> date<br />
changes au<strong>to</strong>matically when <strong>the</strong><br />
hour hand is moved over <strong>the</strong><br />
The Heritage Pilot is a contemporary rendition of Alpina’s 1920s and 1930s pilot’s watches.<br />
midnight line. The chronograph<br />
watch offers UTC time, as well.<br />
The entire complex movement<br />
is housed inside a titanium case<br />
that is ultra strong yet super light<br />
weight. DST is au<strong>to</strong>matically<br />
accounted for in <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
and sou<strong>the</strong>rn hemispheres. The<br />
world time chronograph Datezoner<br />
Pilot watch with three<br />
complications offers a sapphire<br />
crystal.<br />
Bell & Ross this year moves<br />
strongly in<strong>to</strong> high-tech materials,<br />
unveiling <strong>the</strong> BR01-94 in<br />
Carbon Fiber. This mechanical<br />
au<strong>to</strong>matic three-counter chronograph<br />
with date is crafted in an<br />
XL 46 mm carbon fiber case with<br />
a two-<strong>to</strong>ne decor and matching<br />
strap. The black Clous de<br />
Paris dial features luminescent<br />
coating for easy readability.<br />
Similarly, Hanhart unveils <strong>the</strong><br />
Pioneer Stealth 1882 Limited<br />
edition watch with bicompax<br />
au<strong>to</strong>matic movement and<br />
black ADLC coated stainless<br />
steel case. The flyback chronograph<br />
with tachymeter scale and<br />
telemeter scale features a bidirectional<br />
rotating bezel with convex<br />
sapphire glass and antireflective<br />
sapphire crystal.<br />
Offering pilot timing with vintage<br />
flair, Alpina unveils its Heritage<br />
Pilot watch in a contemporary<br />
rendition of <strong>the</strong> Alpina<br />
pilot watches from <strong>the</strong> 1920’s<br />
von Känel: We’re launching The<br />
Longines Saint-Imier Collection −<br />
exceptional timepieces exclusively<br />
with mechanical movements.<br />
These models pay tribute <strong>to</strong> Saint-<br />
Imier, <strong>the</strong> village in Switzerland<br />
where Longines was founded in<br />
1832. The company has close<br />
links with this village, where it<br />
has developed. So, this collection<br />
perfectly embodies Longines’ his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />
values.We will also introduce<br />
some beautiful limited edi-<br />
and ‘30’s. The watch features a<br />
hand-wound pocket watch calibre,<br />
AL-435, with 17 jewels and<br />
42 hours of power reserve. The<br />
alluring timepiece features a<br />
script Alpina logo on <strong>the</strong> black<br />
dial, and a sub-seconds hand at<br />
6:00, along with Arabic numerals<br />
– offering supreme legibility.<br />
It is crafted in a 50 mm case with<br />
tion pieces dedicated <strong>to</strong> Longines’<br />
180th anniversary in 2012.<br />
BWDN: 2011, <strong>the</strong> Master Collection<br />
Retrograde Moon Phase<br />
debuted. How is <strong>the</strong> response?<br />
von Känel: Deliveries start soon.<br />
Based on our experience with initial<br />
versions of The Longines Master<br />
Collection Retrograde, we’re<br />
convinced it’s going <strong>to</strong> be a hit!<br />
Interview: William G. Shuster ■<br />
Swiss luxury watchmaker Longines celebrated its 180 years of watchmaking excellence with an infor-<br />
mative, day-long anniversary exhibition of its his<strong>to</strong>ry staged at <strong>the</strong> Swatch Plaza on Friday, March 9.<br />
hinged caseback that opens <strong>to</strong><br />
a sapphire crystal revealing <strong>the</strong><br />
mechanical movement inside.<br />
Zenith’s Pilot Aéronef Type 20<br />
is a C.O.S.C.-certified chronometer<br />
containing <strong>the</strong> famous<br />
5011 pocket watch calibre that<br />
was named <strong>the</strong> most accurate<br />
chronometer ever tested by <strong>the</strong><br />
Neuchâtel Observa<strong>to</strong>ry in 1967.<br />
The same calibre has his<strong>to</strong>rically<br />
been used in marine chronometers<br />
and pocket watches and now<br />
for <strong>the</strong> first time in a wristwatch<br />
debuting at BASELWORLD.<br />
(rn/sz) ■<br />
Just 130 pieces of <strong>the</strong> Limited Edition<br />
Hanhart Pioneer Stealth 1882 in black DLC<br />
coated stainless steel will be produced.<br />
The Zenith Pilot Aéronef Type 20<br />
reinterprets <strong>the</strong> codes of a high-flying<br />
<strong>success</strong> from its rich his<strong>to</strong>ry.