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On the runway to success - MCH Group

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WATCHES PAGE 4<br />

Walter von Känel, president<br />

of Swiss luxury watch brand<br />

Longines, tells BWDN how it is<br />

marking its 180th anniversary,<br />

talks about timepieces based on<br />

its watchmaking heritage, spotlights<br />

its strongest markets, and<br />

tells why support of equestrian<br />

sports is important <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> brand.<br />

BWDN: How was Longines’ business<br />

in 2011; what do you expect<br />

in 2012?<br />

Walter von Känel: It was an<br />

excellent year for <strong>the</strong> Swiss watch<br />

industry, for <strong>the</strong> Swatch <strong>Group</strong><br />

and for Longines. Our aim for<br />

2012 is <strong>to</strong> keep going on.<br />

BWDN: Where are Longines’<br />

best opportunities in <strong>the</strong> next 12<br />

months?<br />

von Känel: Greater China,<br />

Europe and <strong>the</strong> U.S.A. are currently<br />

<strong>the</strong> strongest markets. Our<br />

strategies in <strong>the</strong> fields of product<br />

development, marketing and<br />

pricing are matching <strong>the</strong> needs of<br />

<strong>the</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mers in <strong>the</strong>se regions.<br />

We are present in almost all <strong>the</strong><br />

countries. The BRIC countries<br />

SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />

180 years of elegant performance<br />

Successful strategies are driving Longines’ sales<br />

Walter von Känel, president Longines.<br />

(Brazil, Russia, India and China)<br />

are doing well, or even very well,<br />

except for Brazil where we have<br />

<strong>to</strong> reconsider our strategy.<br />

BWDN: Longines is <strong>the</strong> timekeeper<br />

and/or sponsor of a<br />

number of equestrian sporting<br />

activities, including elite events<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Middle East, China, Germany<br />

and England. Why is this<br />

important <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> brand?<br />

von Känel: Longines has been<br />

active in equestrian disciplines<br />

for many decades. We’ve cho-<br />

sen <strong>to</strong> be involved in equestrian<br />

events − that is, horseracing,<br />

show-jumping and endurance races<br />

− <strong>to</strong> stress <strong>the</strong>se sports’ aes<strong>the</strong>tic<br />

appeal and human qualities,<br />

which dovetail with our products’<br />

essential qualities. Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore,<br />

<strong>the</strong>se sports express <strong>the</strong> values of<br />

elegance, tradition and performance<br />

that are dear <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> brand.<br />

BWDN: In recent years, Longines<br />

debuted a number of watches −<br />

such as its Lindbergh Atlantic<br />

Voyage watches − based on classic<br />

Longines timepieces. What<br />

new watches drawn from its<br />

watchmaking heritage are being<br />

shown this year?<br />

Känel: We’ve been re-issuing heritage<br />

pieces for quite a long time<br />

now, and have a strong legitimacy<br />

in this segment. As Longines is<br />

celebrating its 180th anniversary<br />

this year, we’re going <strong>to</strong> launch<br />

several re-editions of heritage<br />

pieces enhancing <strong>the</strong> rich his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

of Longines.<br />

BWDN: What else is Longines<br />

spotlighting here?<br />

The new dawn of pilot’s pieces<br />

For serious pilots or weekend pilots – a host of new watches take off from <strong>the</strong> show<br />

Pilot watches aren’t new. In fact<br />

<strong>the</strong>y have enjoyed a century of<br />

fame − accompanying explorers<br />

such as Charles Lindbergh<br />

and Amelia Earnhardt on <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

quests. Today’s <strong>to</strong>p watch brands<br />

offer a competitive edge with<br />

precision and functions a pilot<br />

may need in <strong>the</strong> field. Additionally,<br />

most are venturing in<strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> world of high-tech materials<br />

<strong>to</strong> clad <strong>the</strong>se watches − making<br />

<strong>the</strong>m ever more rugged and reliable<br />

and readable.<br />

Breitling unveils <strong>the</strong> Chronomat<br />

44 GMT in a new diameter. The<br />

watch houses <strong>the</strong> COSC-certified<br />

chronometer 04 Calibre manufactured<br />

entirely in house by Brei-<br />

tling. It offers hours, minutes,<br />

seconds, date, second time zone<br />

and third time zone on <strong>the</strong> bezel,<br />

chronograph <strong>to</strong> ¼ of a second,<br />

30-minutes and 12 hours, and<br />

tachymeter bezel − all in a magnificent<br />

44 mm stainless steel case.<br />

New from Vogard is <strong>the</strong> Datezoner<br />

Pilot watch − an amazing<br />

technical functioning watch that<br />

is <strong>the</strong> only watch <strong>to</strong> change date<br />

and time zones via <strong>the</strong> bezel.<br />

The date is set via <strong>the</strong> bezel<br />

and is synchronized with <strong>the</strong><br />

time zones and <strong>the</strong> cities on<br />

<strong>the</strong> bezel. The unique, patented<br />

mechanism ensures that <strong>the</strong> date<br />

changes au<strong>to</strong>matically when <strong>the</strong><br />

hour hand is moved over <strong>the</strong><br />

The Heritage Pilot is a contemporary rendition of Alpina’s 1920s and 1930s pilot’s watches.<br />

midnight line. The chronograph<br />

watch offers UTC time, as well.<br />

The entire complex movement<br />

is housed inside a titanium case<br />

that is ultra strong yet super light<br />

weight. DST is au<strong>to</strong>matically<br />

accounted for in <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

and sou<strong>the</strong>rn hemispheres. The<br />

world time chronograph Datezoner<br />

Pilot watch with three<br />

complications offers a sapphire<br />

crystal.<br />

Bell & Ross this year moves<br />

strongly in<strong>to</strong> high-tech materials,<br />

unveiling <strong>the</strong> BR01-94 in<br />

Carbon Fiber. This mechanical<br />

au<strong>to</strong>matic three-counter chronograph<br />

with date is crafted in an<br />

XL 46 mm carbon fiber case with<br />

a two-<strong>to</strong>ne decor and matching<br />

strap. The black Clous de<br />

Paris dial features luminescent<br />

coating for easy readability.<br />

Similarly, Hanhart unveils <strong>the</strong><br />

Pioneer Stealth 1882 Limited<br />

edition watch with bicompax<br />

au<strong>to</strong>matic movement and<br />

black ADLC coated stainless<br />

steel case. The flyback chronograph<br />

with tachymeter scale and<br />

telemeter scale features a bidirectional<br />

rotating bezel with convex<br />

sapphire glass and antireflective<br />

sapphire crystal.<br />

Offering pilot timing with vintage<br />

flair, Alpina unveils its Heritage<br />

Pilot watch in a contemporary<br />

rendition of <strong>the</strong> Alpina<br />

pilot watches from <strong>the</strong> 1920’s<br />

von Känel: We’re launching The<br />

Longines Saint-Imier Collection −<br />

exceptional timepieces exclusively<br />

with mechanical movements.<br />

These models pay tribute <strong>to</strong> Saint-<br />

Imier, <strong>the</strong> village in Switzerland<br />

where Longines was founded in<br />

1832. The company has close<br />

links with this village, where it<br />

has developed. So, this collection<br />

perfectly embodies Longines’ his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />

values.We will also introduce<br />

some beautiful limited edi-<br />

and ‘30’s. The watch features a<br />

hand-wound pocket watch calibre,<br />

AL-435, with 17 jewels and<br />

42 hours of power reserve. The<br />

alluring timepiece features a<br />

script Alpina logo on <strong>the</strong> black<br />

dial, and a sub-seconds hand at<br />

6:00, along with Arabic numerals<br />

– offering supreme legibility.<br />

It is crafted in a 50 mm case with<br />

tion pieces dedicated <strong>to</strong> Longines’<br />

180th anniversary in 2012.<br />

BWDN: 2011, <strong>the</strong> Master Collection<br />

Retrograde Moon Phase<br />

debuted. How is <strong>the</strong> response?<br />

von Känel: Deliveries start soon.<br />

Based on our experience with initial<br />

versions of The Longines Master<br />

Collection Retrograde, we’re<br />

convinced it’s going <strong>to</strong> be a hit!<br />

Interview: William G. Shuster ■<br />

Swiss luxury watchmaker Longines celebrated its 180 years of watchmaking excellence with an infor-<br />

mative, day-long anniversary exhibition of its his<strong>to</strong>ry staged at <strong>the</strong> Swatch Plaza on Friday, March 9.<br />

hinged caseback that opens <strong>to</strong><br />

a sapphire crystal revealing <strong>the</strong><br />

mechanical movement inside.<br />

Zenith’s Pilot Aéronef Type 20<br />

is a C.O.S.C.-certified chronometer<br />

containing <strong>the</strong> famous<br />

5011 pocket watch calibre that<br />

was named <strong>the</strong> most accurate<br />

chronometer ever tested by <strong>the</strong><br />

Neuchâtel Observa<strong>to</strong>ry in 1967.<br />

The same calibre has his<strong>to</strong>rically<br />

been used in marine chronometers<br />

and pocket watches and now<br />

for <strong>the</strong> first time in a wristwatch<br />

debuting at BASELWORLD.<br />

(rn/sz) ■<br />

Just 130 pieces of <strong>the</strong> Limited Edition<br />

Hanhart Pioneer Stealth 1882 in black DLC<br />

coated stainless steel will be produced.<br />

The Zenith Pilot Aéronef Type 20<br />

reinterprets <strong>the</strong> codes of a high-flying<br />

<strong>success</strong> from its rich his<strong>to</strong>ry.

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