On the runway to success - MCH Group

JEWELLERY | DESIGN PAGE 32
■ NEWS.TRENDS
Breuning silver design
jewellery with golden accents.
The Breuning Silver Design collection
2012 offers affordable luxury.
With its clear lines, it represents
high quality processing and a unique
material mix of red and yellow gold
colour accents. (ahe) 2.1, M80
Beautiful jewels for beautiful women
by Brumani.
What do the most beautiful women
in the world have in common with
Brazilian zest for life? They wear it
around their necks, on their fingers or
in their ears, in the form of luxurious
creations from Brumani. Global
stars such as Jennifer Lopez, Emily
Blunt or Emma Bell like to adorn
themselves with the elegant Jewellery
from the family-run Brazilian company
on special occasions. Technical
precision, precious gems, know-how
and tradition mix with spontaneity
and the joy of Brazil’s love for modern
life. (cete) 2.1, N61
Feather pendant, Tahitian cultured pearls,
diamonds on white gold by Schmittgall.
The top of the range pearl specialist
Schmittgall, based in Paris, is
offering to set our minds free with
its Cachemire and Plume collections.
The Cachemire range
is an expression of a graphical
voyage through nature,
inspired by the Art Nouveau. The
Plume range embodies a sense of
the light and delicate but is also
a symbol of peace rituals. A charming
message and a discovery of the
world of Tahitian cultured pearls. (kb)
2.1, M40
Sparkling Starfish by Guess.
Guess Jewellery exudes a passion
for sunshine and sea in its new
collection of radiant turquoise. The
highlights of the collection include an
opulent necklace with large sparkling
starfish and a striking bracelet in the
shape of a starfish set with endless
crystals all over. (ahe) 2.2, A90
SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012
Return to first loves
Lalique transcribes the founder’s poetic designs into modern pieces
After the cautious launch of
its first jewellery collection in
autumn 2011 based around the
four elements, Lalique is making
a strong appearance at BASEL-
WORLD with its Odyssée du feu
sacré haute joaillerie collection.
The new strategy of the CEO of
Lalique, Silvio Denz, is to focus
the future of the brand on modern
design while continuing to
capitalise on the artistic heritage
of the company founder, René
Lalique. And this has been successfully
achieved with the Odyssée
du feu sacré collection which features
symbolic figures from the
master of the Art Nouveau. “An
Odyssey based on bringing back
to life the inspirations of Lalique,
such as a phoenix, to create a collection
which blends crystals and
diamonds,” explains Anne Kazuro-Guionnet,
marketing director
for jewellery at Lalique. “It is a
real renaissance because this haute
joaillerie collection has enabled
us to return to René Lalique’s
first loves.” In fact, when René
Lalique first started out in his
career between 1882 and 1885, his
innovative jewellery creations led
him to acquire the name of ‘master
of Art Nouveau jewellery design’.
Stories told by coloured gemstones
Tamara Comolli is celebrating an anniversary at BASELWORLD 2012
Jewellery designer Tamara
Comolli is based near the German
Tegernsee lake and has
conquered the world with her
Color Stories. BWDN caught
up with her to discuss her plans
for 2012.
BWDN: You have become one
of the top ten brands in just 20
years. How do you explain this
success?
Tamara Comolli: I’m really
pleased about it because it was
my dream, a vision, to create a
long-lasting brand, by which I
mean transforming my designs
into classics! This requires consistency
and a philosophy which
the customer can understand.
In my case, this involves a great
deal of symbolism like the Color
Stories I have created, of which
there are now over 30! These
are colour compositions of gemstones
in which the designs have
evolved further. The symbols are
the droplets, my trademark, and
the cones featuring a virtually
endless selection of gemstones.
BWDN: What is the core of the
Tamara Comolli brand?
Comolli: A high quality collection
of 750 gold with designs
which can be freely combined
Lalique is making a strong appearance at BASELWORLD in hall 2.2, H44.
He created jewellery landscapes
and sculptures featuring a world of
plants and animals, both aquatic
and terrestrial. He drew his inspiration
from nature and emulating
Japanese artists who the western
world gradually began to discover
through various world exhibitions.
René Lalique had the audacity to
use the feminine body as a decorative
element by presenting an
allegory of a woman, half-female,
half-animal and often mysterious
− something which was very unusual
at the time. He did not hesitate
in using original techniques
and materials such as horn, ivory,
enamel and, of course, glass which
Jewellery designer Tamara Comolli.
and constantly reinvented. This
enables customers to create
unique jewellery outfits. Despite
this, the brand is highly recognisable.
BWDN: How are the key sales
markets developing at present?
Comolli: Our strongest markets
are Europe and America. Things
are beginning to develop well
in Eastern Europe and we have
plans to develop in Asia too. We
are something of a jet-set brand
which has already conquered the
world. My jewellery is purchased
by women across the globe. They
was combined with gold and precious
stones.
“We asked the creative designer
Quentin Obadia to retranscribe
this poetry by René Lalique into
our modern world in an ultracontemporary
fashion. It is a matter
of rewriting jewellery, without
barriers, and overcoming the classic
codes of the ‘jewellery from the
Place Vendôme’,” Anne Kazuro-
Guionnet continues. “Of course,
we contacted the very best French
and European studios to produce
this collection and sought to apply
new modern-day techniques.”
The Odyssée du feu sacré unveils
its identity as a guardian of fire
are pieces to be talked about
and therefore word-ofmouth
plays a key role in
the spread of the Tamara
Comolli brand. We have
customers across the
world, including China.
BWDN: What new items
are you bringing with you
to BASELWORLD 2012?
Comolli: New items always
take the form of one or more
new Color Stories. This time, one
of them is called Breeze − superfresh
for the summer in delightful
shades of blue. I am also
taking Chestnut with me. These
are warm, soft tones for autumn
and winter. The Cruise story by
contrast offers pure glamour. We
are also using a new material in
the Gypsy line for the first time:
bronze/copper and silver in the
form of youthful cult pendants.
I wanted to secure a trendy young
client base with these items. And
of course there is a Celebration
Design to mark our 20th anniversary.
This had to include droplets,
my trademark. The items
are made from top quality solid
750 gold and are available in
a limited edition series of just
220 items. A top quality version
is also available.
Vesta bracelet, white gold
with diamond pavé and pink mother-of-pearl.
in the form of a female phoenix.
The necklace, the masterpiece of
the collection, is composed of
three detachable jewels with a
brooch and pendant. The crystal
torso is extended with feathers of
sculpted mother-of-pearl while
the mask and gold lacquered hair
feature diamond pavé (2,672 diamonds).
The necklace is priced at
around 500,000 euros and also
comes in the form of a bracelet
(90,000 euros) or ring (from
10,000 euros). The collection is
composed of close to 90 items
and features the unmistakeable
Lalique dragonfly which comes
either all in diamond or in a version
with emerald, tsavorite and
yellow sapphire.
The phoenix bird creates the
subtleness of fire using mandarin
garnet and yellow and orange
sapphires. As a symbol of the
cycle of eternal life and creating
hair which extends to infinity, the
Ardente theme is inspired by the
Lalique swirls and is decorated
with pink sapphires, diamonds
and amber-coloured crystal balls.
(kb) ■ 2.2, H44
Bracelet as light as
a summer breeze.
BWDN: What are your plans for
2012?
Comolli: I have two goals: on the
one hand, I want to impress my
jewellery partners with my key
marketing concepts and on the
other, I want to establish the basics
of my collection − the cones and
droplets. I also want to open more
stores in holiday regions. These
are places where the spirit of the
brand is communicated to the
optimum and where people are
relaxed. Here I will present all of
the Tamara Comolli world along
with accessories, the finishing
touch to all areas of the collection.
One such location is Florida!
Interview by Axel Henselder ■