On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
On the runway to success - MCH Group
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JEWELLERY PAGE 30<br />
■ NEWS.TRENDS<br />
Philippe Tournaire likes <strong>to</strong> call<br />
himself a ‘jewellery builder’ and is<br />
renowned for his architectural rings. At<br />
BASELWORLD 2012, Philippe Tournaire<br />
is unveiling his version of <strong>the</strong><br />
Eiffel Tower in <strong>the</strong> form of <strong>the</strong> ‘French<br />
Kiss’ solitaire ring. “Having always<br />
been fascinated by <strong>the</strong> Eiffel Tower,<br />
<strong>the</strong> lady of iron, a great, powerful and<br />
proud lady, I decided <strong>to</strong> return one<br />
day <strong>to</strong> get a better look. I was overcome<br />
with <strong>the</strong> desire <strong>to</strong> place precious<br />
s<strong>to</strong>nes between its four square<br />
corners.” The Eiffel Tower is a place<br />
where lovers meet and so <strong>the</strong> idea of<br />
<strong>the</strong> ‘French Kiss’ ring was born. (kb)<br />
2.0, F 50<br />
‘French Kiss’ ring, available in<br />
yellow, rose or white gold.<br />
Vendôme is <strong>the</strong> name of <strong>the</strong> new<br />
collection from <strong>the</strong> traditional Italian<br />
company, Fope. These jewellery<br />
items are based on a pure yet<br />
elegant style. The collection includes<br />
chains, bracelets and rings in 750<br />
gold which impress with <strong>the</strong>ir unique<br />
Fope mechanism, based on gold<br />
springs. The design department spent<br />
many months devising this flexible<br />
and thin meshwork under <strong>the</strong> direction<br />
of Fope president Umber<strong>to</strong> Cazzola.<br />
Fope has already applied for<br />
a patent <strong>to</strong> cover this new groundbreaking<br />
technology. (ahe) 2.2, E71<br />
Fope bracelet.<br />
Vianna from Brasil offers sophisticated,<br />
contemporary, shiny and colourful<br />
jewellery. Four generations ago,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Vianna family <strong>to</strong>ok <strong>the</strong> first steps<br />
<strong>to</strong>wards making jewellery. Now, with<br />
over 20 years of experience, Vianna<br />
Brasil has been growing, evolving and<br />
streng<strong>the</strong>ning its brand worldwide. A<br />
talented team of designers continues<br />
<strong>to</strong> follow <strong>the</strong> brand’s DNA and draws<br />
its inspiration <strong>to</strong> create <strong>the</strong>se innovative<br />
collections from <strong>the</strong> family’s heritage.<br />
It comprises <strong>the</strong> wide-ranging<br />
colours of Brazil. (cete) 2.1, L60<br />
Coloured<br />
gems<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
earrings.<br />
Founded on principles of classic<br />
goldsmith techniques and pride<br />
in artisanship, <strong>the</strong> family-run<br />
jewellery company of Ole Lynggaard<br />
Copenhagen is <strong>the</strong> most<br />
prestigious high-end brand in<br />
Scandinavia <strong>to</strong>day. Ole Lynggaard’s<br />
daughter, Charlotte Lynggaard,<br />
is <strong>the</strong> creative direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
and designer of <strong>the</strong> company, her<br />
husband Michel Normann <strong>the</strong><br />
CCO, and Ole Lynggaard’s son,<br />
Søren Lynggaard, is <strong>the</strong> CEO of<br />
<strong>the</strong> company. We spoke with<br />
Søren Lynggaard.<br />
BWDN: When did you first know<br />
you would make <strong>the</strong> luxury jewellery<br />
business a part of your life?<br />
Søren Lynggaard: The jewellery<br />
business has been a part of my<br />
life since I was a child. My fa<strong>the</strong>r<br />
established Ole Lynggaard<br />
Copenhagen in 1963, and I have<br />
helped building stands on fairs<br />
since I could lift a hammer.<br />
I joined <strong>the</strong> company full-time in<br />
1994.<br />
BWDN: Being <strong>the</strong> CEO of a luxury<br />
jewellery company, what is<br />
luxury <strong>to</strong> you?<br />
Lynggaard: Luxury is being able <strong>to</strong><br />
buy something that you have<br />
dreamt of for some time as a gift<br />
or for yourself.<br />
SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />
When fairytales come true<br />
Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen appeals <strong>to</strong> poetry with handcrafted jewellery<br />
Happily for all lovers of rare<br />
golden Palawan South Sea pearls,<br />
two men − <strong>the</strong> French perliculture<br />
specialist and former pilot<br />
Jacques Branellec and <strong>the</strong> Filipino<br />
businessman Manuel Cojuangco<br />
− met in 1979 and founded<br />
<strong>the</strong> Jewelmer brand in Manila.<br />
Their vision: in <strong>the</strong> turquoise<br />
waters of <strong>the</strong> Palawan archipelago<br />
<strong>the</strong>y planned <strong>to</strong> produce <strong>the</strong> most<br />
lustrous South Sea pearls in <strong>the</strong><br />
Søren Lynggaard of Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen.<br />
BWDN: What is <strong>the</strong> profile of <strong>the</strong><br />
consumer that <strong>the</strong> company is<br />
targeting <strong>to</strong>day?<br />
Lynggaard: We are focusing at <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>to</strong>p 2% of <strong>the</strong> quality-conscious<br />
young women of all ages.<br />
BWDN: What do you think consumers<br />
are looking for <strong>to</strong>day?<br />
Lynggaard: I think women want<br />
jewellery with a distinguished<br />
design; jewellery that <strong>the</strong>y <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />
are able <strong>to</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mize for<br />
different occasions. We have tried<br />
<strong>to</strong> make jewellery with this aim<br />
since 1979, when my far<strong>the</strong>r invented<br />
his clasp system for necklaces.<br />
BWDN: Where do you see <strong>the</strong> company<br />
heading in <strong>the</strong> next five years?<br />
Lynggaard: We have high ambitions:<br />
We want <strong>to</strong> be <strong>the</strong> preferred<br />
luxury brand for <strong>the</strong> quality-conscious<br />
cus<strong>to</strong>mer, who is looking<br />
for Scandinavian jewellery design.<br />
We aim <strong>to</strong> sell our jewellery collection<br />
in <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p 250 European<br />
s<strong>to</strong>res, and we want a close and<br />
dedicated relationship with our<br />
sales partners.<br />
BWDN: In <strong>the</strong> company’s universe<br />
− what are you most proud of?<br />
Lynggaard: I love being a part of<br />
a family-run business and manufacturing<br />
beautiful products that I<br />
am extremely proud of; being a<br />
part of a fantastic team of dedicated<br />
colleagues who work hard<br />
on making <strong>the</strong> Ole Lynggaard<br />
Copenhagen dream come true.<br />
I am also very proud of <strong>the</strong> fact<br />
that we maintain a large production<br />
in Denmark produ<br />
cing Danish design in Denmark.<br />
This correlates with<br />
our values: Passion, joy of<br />
life, confidence, uniqueness,<br />
quality and efficiency. Our focus<br />
at BASELWORLD this year is a<br />
new series from my sister Charlotte<br />
Lynggaard. It is called ‘My<br />
Little World’, and it is a new<br />
charm concept that has proven a<br />
fantastic future from <strong>the</strong> sales in<br />
Scandinavia.<br />
An opulent homage <strong>to</strong> Monet<br />
Jewelmer presents finest South Sea pearls in a broad spectrum of collections<br />
Gaelle Branellec, creative direc<strong>to</strong>r and produc-<br />
tion manager with her cousin Pierre Fallourd,<br />
Jewelmer’s assistant managing direc<strong>to</strong>r.<br />
world. A task that <strong>the</strong>y have more<br />
than mastered in <strong>the</strong> course of<br />
<strong>the</strong> past 33 years. The two visionaries<br />
have invested over three<br />
decades of experience, time, commitment<br />
and <strong>the</strong> know-how of<br />
numerous marine biologists. And<br />
with <strong>success</strong>: <strong>to</strong> date, <strong>the</strong> Philippine<br />
pearl brand is known worldwide<br />
not only for its pearl farming<br />
but also as a manufacturer of<br />
fine pearl jewellery. Jewelmer is<br />
<strong>the</strong> leading producer of exquisite<br />
and rare golden Palawan South<br />
Sea pearls and <strong>the</strong>reby <strong>the</strong> most<br />
prominent supplier in <strong>the</strong> world<br />
market. Co-operation with wellknown<br />
luxury goods companies<br />
and participation in international<br />
fairs have become par for <strong>the</strong><br />
course. Above all, Jewelmer operates<br />
a whole string of fine pearl<br />
jewellery retail boutiques in <strong>the</strong><br />
Philippines and has a trade and<br />
retail presence in Dubai, Hong<br />
Kong, Melbourne and Paris.<br />
At BASELWORLD 2012 <strong>the</strong> Philippine<br />
company is providing an<br />
overview of its current jewellery<br />
collection. The bandwidth here is<br />
broad: in some cases <strong>the</strong> golden<br />
shimmering pearls are combined<br />
with intricate diamond pavée or<br />
additional mo<strong>the</strong>r-of-pearl elements<br />
in <strong>the</strong> form of blossoms. In<br />
contrast, o<strong>the</strong>r lines are purist in<br />
style or draw inspiration from<br />
church windows or floral forms.<br />
Highlights brought <strong>to</strong> Basel by<br />
Jewelmer include <strong>the</strong> Giverny collection,<br />
created from <strong>the</strong> finest<br />
South Sea pearls, yellow gold and<br />
diamonds, which represents an<br />
opulent homage <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> garden of<br />
impressionist Claude Monet.<br />
Finding perfect gems<br />
<strong>On</strong>ly a fraction of <strong>the</strong> pearls<br />
farmed by Jewelmer are used for<br />
<strong>the</strong> company’s own jewellery,<br />
however. The majority of <strong>the</strong><br />
marine beauties cultivated in <strong>the</strong><br />
farms in sou<strong>the</strong>rn Palawan are<br />
sold <strong>to</strong> international pearl jewellery<br />
manufacturers as raw materials,<br />
as assistant managing direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Pierre Fallourd reports. These<br />
vary in size between 8 and 19 millimetres,<br />
with <strong>the</strong> greatest demand<br />
for pearls between 11 and 16 millimetres.<br />
As with all types of pearl<br />
farming, <strong>the</strong> cultivation of <strong>the</strong><br />
golden Palawan South Sea pearl is<br />
dependent upon <strong>the</strong> ideal con-<br />
BWDN: Looking back, how would<br />
you say your approach <strong>to</strong>wards<br />
business has evolved/matured?<br />
Lynggaard: The most important<br />
lesson I have learned from my<br />
far<strong>the</strong>r is <strong>to</strong> be able <strong>to</strong> delegate<br />
responsibility <strong>to</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs. In my<br />
opinion keeping a focused strategy,<br />
staying faithful <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> company<br />
values and having great visionary<br />
designers − in our case my<br />
sister Charlotte and my fa<strong>the</strong>r Ole<br />
Lynggaard − is what is takes <strong>to</strong><br />
become a <strong>success</strong>.<br />
Interview by Nina Hald ■<br />
Lotus rings – two red and one white gold ring<br />
with diamonds, a moons<strong>to</strong>ne and two shades<br />
of <strong>to</strong>paz.<br />
stellation of a number of different<br />
fac<strong>to</strong>rs: clean water, a healthy<br />
marine ecosystem, ideal temperatures<br />
and <strong>the</strong> right mussel. “As<br />
<strong>the</strong> shape, size and colour of <strong>the</strong><br />
pearls is determined mainly by<br />
nature, no two pearls are <strong>the</strong><br />
same,” says Fallourd. “The task of<br />
finding perfect gems from thousands<br />
is a daunting one − an art<br />
and a science in itself.” (cete) ■<br />
3.1, L46<br />
Gaelle Branellec shows a necklace from <strong>the</strong><br />
Giverny collection.