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On the runway to success - MCH Group

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JEWELLERY PAGE 30<br />

■ NEWS.TRENDS<br />

Philippe Tournaire likes <strong>to</strong> call<br />

himself a ‘jewellery builder’ and is<br />

renowned for his architectural rings. At<br />

BASELWORLD 2012, Philippe Tournaire<br />

is unveiling his version of <strong>the</strong><br />

Eiffel Tower in <strong>the</strong> form of <strong>the</strong> ‘French<br />

Kiss’ solitaire ring. “Having always<br />

been fascinated by <strong>the</strong> Eiffel Tower,<br />

<strong>the</strong> lady of iron, a great, powerful and<br />

proud lady, I decided <strong>to</strong> return one<br />

day <strong>to</strong> get a better look. I was overcome<br />

with <strong>the</strong> desire <strong>to</strong> place precious<br />

s<strong>to</strong>nes between its four square<br />

corners.” The Eiffel Tower is a place<br />

where lovers meet and so <strong>the</strong> idea of<br />

<strong>the</strong> ‘French Kiss’ ring was born. (kb)<br />

2.0, F 50<br />

‘French Kiss’ ring, available in<br />

yellow, rose or white gold.<br />

Vendôme is <strong>the</strong> name of <strong>the</strong> new<br />

collection from <strong>the</strong> traditional Italian<br />

company, Fope. These jewellery<br />

items are based on a pure yet<br />

elegant style. The collection includes<br />

chains, bracelets and rings in 750<br />

gold which impress with <strong>the</strong>ir unique<br />

Fope mechanism, based on gold<br />

springs. The design department spent<br />

many months devising this flexible<br />

and thin meshwork under <strong>the</strong> direction<br />

of Fope president Umber<strong>to</strong> Cazzola.<br />

Fope has already applied for<br />

a patent <strong>to</strong> cover this new groundbreaking<br />

technology. (ahe) 2.2, E71<br />

Fope bracelet.<br />

Vianna from Brasil offers sophisticated,<br />

contemporary, shiny and colourful<br />

jewellery. Four generations ago,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Vianna family <strong>to</strong>ok <strong>the</strong> first steps<br />

<strong>to</strong>wards making jewellery. Now, with<br />

over 20 years of experience, Vianna<br />

Brasil has been growing, evolving and<br />

streng<strong>the</strong>ning its brand worldwide. A<br />

talented team of designers continues<br />

<strong>to</strong> follow <strong>the</strong> brand’s DNA and draws<br />

its inspiration <strong>to</strong> create <strong>the</strong>se innovative<br />

collections from <strong>the</strong> family’s heritage.<br />

It comprises <strong>the</strong> wide-ranging<br />

colours of Brazil. (cete) 2.1, L60<br />

Coloured<br />

gems<strong>to</strong>ne<br />

earrings.<br />

Founded on principles of classic<br />

goldsmith techniques and pride<br />

in artisanship, <strong>the</strong> family-run<br />

jewellery company of Ole Lynggaard<br />

Copenhagen is <strong>the</strong> most<br />

prestigious high-end brand in<br />

Scandinavia <strong>to</strong>day. Ole Lynggaard’s<br />

daughter, Charlotte Lynggaard,<br />

is <strong>the</strong> creative direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

and designer of <strong>the</strong> company, her<br />

husband Michel Normann <strong>the</strong><br />

CCO, and Ole Lynggaard’s son,<br />

Søren Lynggaard, is <strong>the</strong> CEO of<br />

<strong>the</strong> company. We spoke with<br />

Søren Lynggaard.<br />

BWDN: When did you first know<br />

you would make <strong>the</strong> luxury jewellery<br />

business a part of your life?<br />

Søren Lynggaard: The jewellery<br />

business has been a part of my<br />

life since I was a child. My fa<strong>the</strong>r<br />

established Ole Lynggaard<br />

Copenhagen in 1963, and I have<br />

helped building stands on fairs<br />

since I could lift a hammer.<br />

I joined <strong>the</strong> company full-time in<br />

1994.<br />

BWDN: Being <strong>the</strong> CEO of a luxury<br />

jewellery company, what is<br />

luxury <strong>to</strong> you?<br />

Lynggaard: Luxury is being able <strong>to</strong><br />

buy something that you have<br />

dreamt of for some time as a gift<br />

or for yourself.<br />

SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />

When fairytales come true<br />

Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen appeals <strong>to</strong> poetry with handcrafted jewellery<br />

Happily for all lovers of rare<br />

golden Palawan South Sea pearls,<br />

two men − <strong>the</strong> French perliculture<br />

specialist and former pilot<br />

Jacques Branellec and <strong>the</strong> Filipino<br />

businessman Manuel Cojuangco<br />

− met in 1979 and founded<br />

<strong>the</strong> Jewelmer brand in Manila.<br />

Their vision: in <strong>the</strong> turquoise<br />

waters of <strong>the</strong> Palawan archipelago<br />

<strong>the</strong>y planned <strong>to</strong> produce <strong>the</strong> most<br />

lustrous South Sea pearls in <strong>the</strong><br />

Søren Lynggaard of Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen.<br />

BWDN: What is <strong>the</strong> profile of <strong>the</strong><br />

consumer that <strong>the</strong> company is<br />

targeting <strong>to</strong>day?<br />

Lynggaard: We are focusing at <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong>p 2% of <strong>the</strong> quality-conscious<br />

young women of all ages.<br />

BWDN: What do you think consumers<br />

are looking for <strong>to</strong>day?<br />

Lynggaard: I think women want<br />

jewellery with a distinguished<br />

design; jewellery that <strong>the</strong>y <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />

are able <strong>to</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mize for<br />

different occasions. We have tried<br />

<strong>to</strong> make jewellery with this aim<br />

since 1979, when my far<strong>the</strong>r invented<br />

his clasp system for necklaces.<br />

BWDN: Where do you see <strong>the</strong> company<br />

heading in <strong>the</strong> next five years?<br />

Lynggaard: We have high ambitions:<br />

We want <strong>to</strong> be <strong>the</strong> preferred<br />

luxury brand for <strong>the</strong> quality-conscious<br />

cus<strong>to</strong>mer, who is looking<br />

for Scandinavian jewellery design.<br />

We aim <strong>to</strong> sell our jewellery collection<br />

in <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p 250 European<br />

s<strong>to</strong>res, and we want a close and<br />

dedicated relationship with our<br />

sales partners.<br />

BWDN: In <strong>the</strong> company’s universe<br />

− what are you most proud of?<br />

Lynggaard: I love being a part of<br />

a family-run business and manufacturing<br />

beautiful products that I<br />

am extremely proud of; being a<br />

part of a fantastic team of dedicated<br />

colleagues who work hard<br />

on making <strong>the</strong> Ole Lynggaard<br />

Copenhagen dream come true.<br />

I am also very proud of <strong>the</strong> fact<br />

that we maintain a large production<br />

in Denmark produ<br />

cing Danish design in Denmark.<br />

This correlates with<br />

our values: Passion, joy of<br />

life, confidence, uniqueness,<br />

quality and efficiency. Our focus<br />

at BASELWORLD this year is a<br />

new series from my sister Charlotte<br />

Lynggaard. It is called ‘My<br />

Little World’, and it is a new<br />

charm concept that has proven a<br />

fantastic future from <strong>the</strong> sales in<br />

Scandinavia.<br />

An opulent homage <strong>to</strong> Monet<br />

Jewelmer presents finest South Sea pearls in a broad spectrum of collections<br />

Gaelle Branellec, creative direc<strong>to</strong>r and produc-<br />

tion manager with her cousin Pierre Fallourd,<br />

Jewelmer’s assistant managing direc<strong>to</strong>r.<br />

world. A task that <strong>the</strong>y have more<br />

than mastered in <strong>the</strong> course of<br />

<strong>the</strong> past 33 years. The two visionaries<br />

have invested over three<br />

decades of experience, time, commitment<br />

and <strong>the</strong> know-how of<br />

numerous marine biologists. And<br />

with <strong>success</strong>: <strong>to</strong> date, <strong>the</strong> Philippine<br />

pearl brand is known worldwide<br />

not only for its pearl farming<br />

but also as a manufacturer of<br />

fine pearl jewellery. Jewelmer is<br />

<strong>the</strong> leading producer of exquisite<br />

and rare golden Palawan South<br />

Sea pearls and <strong>the</strong>reby <strong>the</strong> most<br />

prominent supplier in <strong>the</strong> world<br />

market. Co-operation with wellknown<br />

luxury goods companies<br />

and participation in international<br />

fairs have become par for <strong>the</strong><br />

course. Above all, Jewelmer operates<br />

a whole string of fine pearl<br />

jewellery retail boutiques in <strong>the</strong><br />

Philippines and has a trade and<br />

retail presence in Dubai, Hong<br />

Kong, Melbourne and Paris.<br />

At BASELWORLD 2012 <strong>the</strong> Philippine<br />

company is providing an<br />

overview of its current jewellery<br />

collection. The bandwidth here is<br />

broad: in some cases <strong>the</strong> golden<br />

shimmering pearls are combined<br />

with intricate diamond pavée or<br />

additional mo<strong>the</strong>r-of-pearl elements<br />

in <strong>the</strong> form of blossoms. In<br />

contrast, o<strong>the</strong>r lines are purist in<br />

style or draw inspiration from<br />

church windows or floral forms.<br />

Highlights brought <strong>to</strong> Basel by<br />

Jewelmer include <strong>the</strong> Giverny collection,<br />

created from <strong>the</strong> finest<br />

South Sea pearls, yellow gold and<br />

diamonds, which represents an<br />

opulent homage <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> garden of<br />

impressionist Claude Monet.<br />

Finding perfect gems<br />

<strong>On</strong>ly a fraction of <strong>the</strong> pearls<br />

farmed by Jewelmer are used for<br />

<strong>the</strong> company’s own jewellery,<br />

however. The majority of <strong>the</strong><br />

marine beauties cultivated in <strong>the</strong><br />

farms in sou<strong>the</strong>rn Palawan are<br />

sold <strong>to</strong> international pearl jewellery<br />

manufacturers as raw materials,<br />

as assistant managing direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Pierre Fallourd reports. These<br />

vary in size between 8 and 19 millimetres,<br />

with <strong>the</strong> greatest demand<br />

for pearls between 11 and 16 millimetres.<br />

As with all types of pearl<br />

farming, <strong>the</strong> cultivation of <strong>the</strong><br />

golden Palawan South Sea pearl is<br />

dependent upon <strong>the</strong> ideal con-<br />

BWDN: Looking back, how would<br />

you say your approach <strong>to</strong>wards<br />

business has evolved/matured?<br />

Lynggaard: The most important<br />

lesson I have learned from my<br />

far<strong>the</strong>r is <strong>to</strong> be able <strong>to</strong> delegate<br />

responsibility <strong>to</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs. In my<br />

opinion keeping a focused strategy,<br />

staying faithful <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> company<br />

values and having great visionary<br />

designers − in our case my<br />

sister Charlotte and my fa<strong>the</strong>r Ole<br />

Lynggaard − is what is takes <strong>to</strong><br />

become a <strong>success</strong>.<br />

Interview by Nina Hald ■<br />

Lotus rings – two red and one white gold ring<br />

with diamonds, a moons<strong>to</strong>ne and two shades<br />

of <strong>to</strong>paz.<br />

stellation of a number of different<br />

fac<strong>to</strong>rs: clean water, a healthy<br />

marine ecosystem, ideal temperatures<br />

and <strong>the</strong> right mussel. “As<br />

<strong>the</strong> shape, size and colour of <strong>the</strong><br />

pearls is determined mainly by<br />

nature, no two pearls are <strong>the</strong><br />

same,” says Fallourd. “The task of<br />

finding perfect gems from thousands<br />

is a daunting one − an art<br />

and a science in itself.” (cete) ■<br />

3.1, L46<br />

Gaelle Branellec shows a necklace from <strong>the</strong><br />

Giverny collection.

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