WATCHES PAGE 2 ■ CONTENT Watches TAG Heuer / Tourbillons 2 Longines / Pilot’s watches 4 Ulysse Nardin / Moon phase 6 Seiko / Diver’s watches 8 Vulcain / Couture watches 13 Tendence / Rotary / Savoy 15 Ice-Watch / Sandoz 17 Palace HYT / Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Claret 22 Trends Black & White 22 Jewellery Pranda <strong>Group</strong> 22 Meissen / Picchiotti 24 Carrera y Carrera / Detachable earrings 26 Ole Lynggaard / Jewelmer 30 Lalique / Tamara Comolli 32 Technique Rapid pro<strong>to</strong>typing 34 Tools / Witschi / books 38 Gems<strong>to</strong>nes Carvings 41 Countries India 43 International Markets Luxury good markets 47 Service, Imprint 50 Village 52 Premium specialised retail Knar Jewellers / Pierre Dubail 54 ■ NEWS.TRENDS Chopard has confirmed its position as an exceptional innova<strong>to</strong>r and manufacturer with its exciting new technical feat: with <strong>the</strong> calibre L.U.C 01.06-L, <strong>the</strong> new and modern-design chronograph L.U.C 8HF houses <strong>the</strong> first high frequency watch movement with a COSC chronometer certificate. The special feature of this movement is <strong>the</strong> stroke rate of <strong>the</strong> balance wheel which vibrates twice as fast as <strong>the</strong> balance wheel of standard movements at 57,600 semi-oscillations. This offers a high degree of precision and stability. Despite its fast oscillation, <strong>the</strong> new calibre has a power reserve of 60 hours with just one barrel. This is all possible thanks <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> silicon escapement components and a new combination of silicon and steel which has been filed for patent. (iwi) 1.0/D07 Chopard L.U.C 8HF. Ever since 1860, TAG Heuer has <strong>success</strong>fully blazed its own trail by asserting itself as a specialist of mechanical chronographs and has become synonymous with luxurious sport watches. Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin, CEO and president, talks about wellknown icons in new versions and <strong>the</strong> focus on ladies’ watches at this year’s show. BWDN: How did TAG Heuer do in 2011? What are its 2012/2013 goals? Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin: We did better than Swiss exports but we are a bit confused, as most brands claim <strong>the</strong> same and ma<strong>the</strong>matically it does not work. Anyway, we did much better and gained market share reinforcing our worldwide leadership in prestigious chronographs thanks in particular <strong>to</strong> our in-house manufactured Calibre 1887, which won <strong>the</strong> Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in 2010 as <strong>the</strong> best affordable Manufacture Chronograph. For 2012/ 13 we keep planning <strong>to</strong> over-perform <strong>the</strong> market, again with our in-house manufactured chronograph calibres (1887, SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012 Expanding market share TAG Heuer’s Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin on strategies and products Easily one of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p watchmaking feats, <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>urbillon (translated in French as whirlwind) has become a watch lovers dream thanks <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> many and varied new evolutions of this rare escapement, which compensates for <strong>the</strong> effects of gravity on timekeeping. This year at BASELWORLD, <strong>to</strong>urbillons reign supreme, with some very interesting new pieces coming <strong>to</strong> light for women and for men. From Chopard, <strong>the</strong> new Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set is a stunning work of both art and craftsmanship − a beautiful blend of haute horlogerie and haute Mikrograph, Mikrotimer) but also our stunning new ladies watches, and in particular <strong>the</strong> TAG Heuer F1 Steel & Ceramics blockbuster combined with <strong>the</strong> new Basel 2012 Link Lady collection endorsed by Cameron Diaz. BWDN: What are some of your major debuts at BASELWORLD? Babin: The new Link Lady and its flagship, <strong>the</strong> Link Lady Concept, are our Basel 2012 heroes and embody <strong>the</strong> TAG Heuer DNA in pioneering timelessness proposed <strong>to</strong> ladies. Besides, we are launching our best Carrera ever, <strong>the</strong> Carrera 1887 Classic in a highly elegant 43 mm case and adorned with plated rose gold Arabic numbers on white and black dials. A true timeless manufacture masterpiece for style and watch lovers. Also in <strong>the</strong> Carrera line up, <strong>the</strong> Jack Heuer 80th birthday as well as <strong>the</strong> Monaco GP limited editions. BWDN: What’s new in TAG Heuer’s sports sponsorships? Babin: Nothing! We’re consistent since 152 years with a domination of ultimate speed and What a whirlwind! New <strong>to</strong>urbillon models make <strong>the</strong>ir entry at BASELWORLD Harry Wins<strong>to</strong>n expresses its high expertise in watchmaking through its His<strong>to</strong>ire de Tourbillon 3. joaillerie like only Chopard can achieve. The dazzling diamond masterpiece is a chronometer-certified <strong>to</strong>urbillon bearing <strong>the</strong> Poinçon de Genève quality hall mark. The L.U.C 02-14-L (4T21) movement has been entirely developed and created in house expressly for women. The handwound movement is equipped with four stacked, series-coupled barrels – a patented Quattro (T) technology that ensures an amazing nine days of power reserve. The magnificent white gold case is done in snow setting, combining brilliant-cut diamonds of various diameters. It is also bedecked Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin, CEO and president. precision through <strong>the</strong> most prestigious mo<strong>to</strong>r-racing teams and champions: in 2012, we’ll team in F1 with McLaren-Mercedes and its two world champions, Lewis Hamil<strong>to</strong>n and Jenson But<strong>to</strong>n, and at <strong>the</strong> mythical Le Mans 24 with <strong>the</strong> all time winning Audi Sport Team. A team with which we already won Le Mans as official timekeeper in 2010 and 2011. Besides, we’ll be in tennis with iconic Maria Sharap- with baguette-cut diamonds. For added allure, <strong>the</strong> power reserve indica<strong>to</strong>r is outlined in amethysts. Offering classic elegance <strong>to</strong> men, Breguet unveils <strong>the</strong> Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusée in rose gold. This Grande Complication features a <strong>to</strong>urbillon, fuse and chain transmission, and Breguet balance spring in silicon. The Calibre 569 mechanical hand wound movement features an anthracite coating, 43 jewels and 50 hours of power reserve. The numbered editions offer a power reserve indica<strong>to</strong>r on <strong>the</strong> barrel drum. Constant <strong>to</strong>rque is ensured throughout <strong>the</strong> running of <strong>the</strong> watch thanks <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> fuse and chain transmission. Ano<strong>the</strong>r exceptional piece is <strong>the</strong> Harry Wins<strong>to</strong>n His<strong>to</strong>ire de Tourbillon 3, a visionary watch created in a limited edition. The elongated horizontal rectangular case is created in white gold and Zalium and features three dial openings that are all completely independent yet linked. An architectural delight, <strong>the</strong> watch movement consists of 479 parts, but <strong>the</strong> case is amazingly alluring as well. Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin unveils a classically elegant Tourbillon. Called Witness <strong>On</strong>e, <strong>the</strong> ova and in golf with <strong>the</strong> Suzann Pettersen. BWDN: Where do you see <strong>the</strong> best opportunities and growth in 2012? Babin: Everywhere as long as our innovation leadership and compelling positioning and timeless icons make us in all markets <strong>the</strong> hottest and most aspirational contemporary luxury watch brand. We’ll just take market share from competi<strong>to</strong>rs and broaden <strong>the</strong> market size thanks <strong>to</strong> our unique designs and mechanical movements such as Calibre 1887, V4 or Mikrograph 100th. BWDN: How important is BASEL- WORLD for TAG Heuer? Babin: Very much as in seven days we can meet and share our vision and news with about 60% of our world retailing partners and 80% of <strong>the</strong> key expert and influencing media, not <strong>to</strong> mention ga<strong>the</strong>ring all TAG Heuer worldwide teams <strong>to</strong>p executives representing a global force of 1,800 passionate ambassadors worldwide! Interview by Sabine Zwettler ■ alluring open worked <strong>to</strong>urbillon movement garners depth and dimension as a skele<strong>to</strong>n watch. The hand-wound MRC 800 <strong>to</strong>urbillon calibre offers hours minutes and seconds, and beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour. These <strong>to</strong>urbillons represent but a glimpse in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ingenuity of <strong>the</strong> watchmakers here at BASEL- WORLD. (rn) ■ Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin Witness <strong>On</strong>e Tourbillon Skele<strong>to</strong>n (<strong>to</strong>p). Tradition Breguet 7047 Tourbillon Fusée.
From <strong>the</strong> Gemini Collection THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION. Perhaps no one captures this moment more often than Sir Richard Branson. Of course, this doesn’t happen by chance. It happens because he pursues vision. Relentlessly. That is why he wears Bulova Accutron. The timepiece that reinvents accuracy time and again. Bulova Accutron: Innovation never rests. HALL 1.1 BOOTH B19 swiss made. self made. Sir Richard Branson Founder of Virgin <strong>Group</strong>. Sir Richard Branson’s proceeds as brand ambassador were donated <strong>to</strong> Virgin Unite, Virgin’s non-profit foundation. www.virginunite.com