JEWELLERY PAGE 26 ■ NEWS.TRENDS Solid handmade chains by Schofer. The new handcrafted semi-solid chains from Schofer’s prestige range offer a high level of wearing comfort. Whe<strong>the</strong>r in classic polished 750 gold or platinum with a silky smooth surface: only <strong>the</strong> most sophisticated materials are used and are exclusively and skilfully processed by hand at <strong>the</strong> Pforzheim site. (ahe) 2.1, J01 MyChoice rings by Palido. This year, New York and St. Tropez are featured at BASELWORLD at <strong>the</strong> stand of <strong>the</strong> label Palido Fine Jewels by S. Paukner. The prominent cities represent possible combinations for <strong>the</strong> MyChoice ring collection. It offers wearers a virtually limitless chance <strong>to</strong> indulge <strong>the</strong>ir passion for collecting and varying <strong>the</strong>ir jewellery. Solitaire rings plus pavé and diamond-set models can be added <strong>to</strong> simple rings in yellow, white and rose gold. The newly launched MyChoice ring configura<strong>to</strong>r offers initial assistance over <strong>the</strong> internet. (ahe) 2.0, J24 Eagle ring with obsidian s<strong>to</strong>ne. The new jewellery items from men’s fashion label Baldessarini, a brand of <strong>the</strong> Pranda <strong>Group</strong>, represent <strong>the</strong> eagle. The powerful elegance of this bird of prey stands for independence, determination and freedom. These attributes have been converted in<strong>to</strong> powerful designs and forms by Baldessarini. <strong>On</strong>e particular highlight is a ring which creates a striking setting for this king of <strong>the</strong> skies. The eagle motif is spot on with its widespread wings. The ring is made from 925 sterling silver and <strong>the</strong> volcanic rock glass, obsidian. (cete) 2.0, G21 BWDN spoke <strong>to</strong> Nathalie Guedj, CEO of Carrera y Carrera, about <strong>the</strong> market situation for fine jewellery and her plans for 2012. BWDN: Is <strong>the</strong> economic recovery in luxury goods also noticeable at Carrera y Carrera? Nathalie Guedj: Yes, actually we have enjoyed two consecutive excellent years with growth of over 20 percent. We are recovering from <strong>the</strong> large and deep crisis of 2009. All of <strong>the</strong> regions enjoyed a strong and healthy recovery, <strong>the</strong> strongest being Europe and Japan. BWDN: Which collections have been most <strong>success</strong>ful in <strong>the</strong> past year? Guedj: Actually our best selling collections are more or less <strong>the</strong> same everywhere: <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p three are an old collection called Circulos de Fuego which features SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012 Inspired by Spanish culture Carrera y Carrera presents <strong>the</strong> Dragon collection at BASELWORLD Pendant Danza made of yellow gold and diamonds. a dragon (and we expect this year <strong>to</strong> be very strong again for this line, being <strong>the</strong> ‘Year of <strong>the</strong> Dragon’), <strong>the</strong> Gardenias collection launched in 2009, inspired by <strong>the</strong> sensual flower emblem from Cuba, and Bambu, ano<strong>the</strong>r Asian-inspired collection which features our sculpture savoirfaire. Of course, within each collection some items sell in larger form, or with longer earrings, depending on <strong>the</strong> style of <strong>the</strong> country and <strong>the</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mers’ taste, <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p three remain <strong>the</strong> same, however. BWDN: To what extent have <strong>the</strong> high gold price and <strong>the</strong> rising diamond prices had an effect on <strong>the</strong> business of Carrera y Carrera? Guedj: Well, this is actually an important question. Of course we had <strong>to</strong> increase our prices strongly in 2011 and we still have <strong>to</strong> have ano<strong>the</strong>r price increase as soon as possible. But, it is also true that cus<strong>to</strong>mers are more aware than ever of <strong>the</strong> true value of gold, so in ano<strong>the</strong>r way it helps us convincing <strong>the</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mers that buying jewellery is not a bad investment! Everything is possible, <strong>the</strong> most important thing is style, and if we design a nice collection, whatever <strong>the</strong> Nathalie Guedj, CEO of Carrera y Carrera. technique we use <strong>to</strong> produce it, if <strong>the</strong> end result is beautiful it does not matter. It is design and outstanding finishing which convince <strong>the</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mer that he is buying a true piece of luxury! BWDN: What new pieces are you going <strong>to</strong> present in Basel this year? Guedj: Well, as always we will be presenting a new collection. It is inspired by Spanish culture as well as his<strong>to</strong>ry. And this year it is about art, life and passion for life. It is about what makes Adding sparkle <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> face As we enter yet ano<strong>the</strong>r era for ears, detachable earrings announce <strong>the</strong>ir presence Earrings, ear-motifs, ear-studs, jewellery for <strong>the</strong> ears; <strong>the</strong> names are multiple and <strong>the</strong> shapes and sizes even more so. As opposed <strong>to</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r jewellery categories − rings, necklaces and charms − that have been continuously popular for <strong>the</strong> last 4.000 years, earrings are bound <strong>to</strong> follow hairstyles. However, during <strong>the</strong> past twenty years, earrings have reigned supreme on <strong>the</strong> red carpet, being <strong>the</strong> signature choice of many an actress, since <strong>the</strong> earrings are sure <strong>to</strong> add a little more sparkle <strong>to</strong> a glamorous head shot. Pure aes<strong>the</strong>tics As such, earrings are purely worn for <strong>the</strong>ir aes<strong>the</strong>tics. They are of no practical use (as opposed <strong>to</strong> a signet ring, which was used <strong>to</strong> seal letters), nor are <strong>the</strong>y weighted down by emotional ties (such as a wedding band); and as opposed <strong>to</strong> Gypsy earrings by de Grisogono. The earrings can be modified and worn with one, two or three rings. Swarovski crystal blue earrings – as stilet<strong>to</strong>s or studs, <strong>the</strong> choice is up <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> individual. necklaces having served as signs of dignity and office of old-times, <strong>the</strong> earring is a most frivolous jewellery category, solely worn <strong>to</strong> accentuate a woman’s beauty. As our attention is naturally centred on <strong>the</strong> face, earrings assume a most privileged place in <strong>the</strong> jewellery boxes of many females. And as any jewellery-infatuated woman may testify, <strong>the</strong>re is also an almost sensual pleasure in <strong>the</strong> pair of dangling earrings, which follow <strong>the</strong> movement of <strong>the</strong> head. Girandole earrings accentuate both width and length (as usual seen with three pendant drops), while <strong>the</strong> pendeloque earrings are all about length (8 cm long earrings have been seen from time <strong>to</strong> time). In <strong>the</strong> 1930s <strong>the</strong> world of earrings was revolutionized with clip-on systems, so pierc- ing could be avoided if a woman so desired (and <strong>the</strong> weight of an earring could be equally distributed across <strong>the</strong> earlobe). With clips, <strong>the</strong> aes<strong>the</strong>tics of earrings become more centred and less dangling; rosettes and spirals were popular motifs, perhaps as a reaction after <strong>the</strong> Art Deco period’s accentuation of long vertical lines, where long stilet<strong>to</strong>s had been de rigeur of <strong>the</strong> day. But <strong>the</strong> short hair-dos of <strong>the</strong> 1920s, ‘a la garçonne’, made earrings <strong>the</strong> prime choice of jewellery for liberated women, dancing and partying out on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn, for <strong>the</strong> first time in decorative his<strong>to</strong>ry. An era for ears <strong>On</strong> <strong>the</strong> jewellery agenda, <strong>the</strong> 1930s were an era of multifunctional creations. Earrings could be bought with matching pendants, so that any woman could vary <strong>the</strong> decoration of her earrings, but strictly speaking this invention dates back <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> 18th century. In <strong>the</strong> 1980s, earrings underwent a revival, comparable our life so full of emotion. It is <strong>the</strong> art that is <strong>the</strong> most universal in <strong>the</strong> world, that each culture, each civilization have celebrated: music. And of course it is one of <strong>the</strong> symbol of Spain: <strong>the</strong> classic Spanish guitar: ‘La Guitarra Latina’! We have played around <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me, and coming from music we got quickly <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> dance, of course! So let’s say that this year we will sing and dance in Basel <strong>to</strong> give us strength and energy <strong>to</strong> achieve ano<strong>the</strong>r excellent year! At Carrera y Carrera we do believe that art and jewellery must make us dream. BWDN: How do you assess <strong>the</strong> chances and expectations of Carrera y Carrera in 2012? Guedj: If we keep delivering <strong>the</strong> utmost quality in jewellery as we always have done, I believe <strong>the</strong>re is a lot of growth potential for Carrera y Carrera. Our unique style, which makes us so different from any o<strong>the</strong>r jewellery you can find in <strong>the</strong> market, makes us very desirable. And even more so <strong>the</strong>se days, where people are increasingly looking for products which express <strong>the</strong>ir own personality, and not only just a brand image. Interview by Axel Henselder ■ with <strong>the</strong> 1920s and 1930s. A possible explanation was <strong>the</strong> ‘coolness’ of earrings when compared <strong>to</strong> rings (which usually come with an emotional tie or obligation of some sort); perhaps <strong>the</strong> ‘cool-fac<strong>to</strong>r’ appealed <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> business women of <strong>the</strong> decade who ‘dressed for <strong>success</strong>’. In accordance with <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> fashion scene <strong>the</strong>se years, almost anything goes with earrings. And detachable earrings make for great value; wear <strong>the</strong> earring in its smallest looking version during <strong>the</strong> day − hook on a selection of pendants for evening-wear. When a woman has acquired <strong>the</strong> ear-studs part of <strong>the</strong> creations, <strong>the</strong> number of exchangeable pendants <strong>to</strong> accompany <strong>the</strong> rest is infinite, and so are <strong>the</strong> opportunities for her <strong>to</strong> increase her collection. (nh) ■ Winter Frost earrings by Ole Lynggaard, made of 18 karat white gold with 242 brilliants.
Vanguard Water-resistant 30 meter, quartz movement, sapphire crystal with anti-refl ection coating, stainless steel, Swiss made visit us at Hall 1.1 / Booth D75