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On the runway to success - MCH Group

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WATCHES PAGE 2<br />

■ CONTENT<br />

Watches<br />

TAG Heuer / Tourbillons 2<br />

Longines / Pilot’s watches 4<br />

Ulysse Nardin / Moon phase 6<br />

Seiko / Diver’s watches 8<br />

Vulcain / Couture watches 13<br />

Tendence / Rotary / Savoy 15<br />

Ice-Watch / Sandoz 17<br />

Palace<br />

HYT / Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Claret 22<br />

Trends<br />

Black & White 22<br />

Jewellery<br />

Pranda <strong>Group</strong> 22<br />

Meissen / Picchiotti 24<br />

Carrera y Carrera / Detachable<br />

earrings 26<br />

Ole Lynggaard / Jewelmer 30<br />

Lalique / Tamara Comolli 32<br />

Technique<br />

Rapid pro<strong>to</strong>typing 34<br />

Tools / Witschi / books 38<br />

Gems<strong>to</strong>nes<br />

Carvings 41<br />

Countries<br />

India 43<br />

International Markets<br />

Luxury good markets 47<br />

Service, Imprint 50<br />

Village 52<br />

Premium specialised retail<br />

Knar Jewellers / Pierre Dubail 54<br />

■ NEWS.TRENDS<br />

Chopard has confirmed its position<br />

as an exceptional innova<strong>to</strong>r<br />

and manufacturer with its exciting<br />

new technical feat: with <strong>the</strong><br />

calibre L.U.C 01.06-L, <strong>the</strong> new and<br />

modern-design chronograph L.U.C<br />

8HF houses <strong>the</strong> first high frequency<br />

watch movement with a COSC chronometer<br />

certificate. The special feature<br />

of this movement is <strong>the</strong> stroke<br />

rate of <strong>the</strong> balance wheel which<br />

vibrates twice as fast as <strong>the</strong> balance<br />

wheel of standard movements at<br />

57,600 semi-oscillations. This offers<br />

a high degree of precision and stability.<br />

Despite its fast oscillation, <strong>the</strong><br />

new calibre has a power reserve of<br />

60 hours with just one barrel. This<br />

is all possible thanks <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> silicon<br />

escapement components and a new<br />

combination of silicon and steel<br />

which has been filed for patent. (iwi)<br />

1.0/D07<br />

Chopard L.U.C 8HF.<br />

Ever since 1860, TAG Heuer has<br />

<strong>success</strong>fully blazed its own trail<br />

by asserting itself as a specialist<br />

of mechanical chronographs<br />

and has become synonymous<br />

with luxurious sport watches.<br />

Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin, CEO<br />

and president, talks about wellknown<br />

icons in new versions<br />

and <strong>the</strong> focus on ladies’ watches<br />

at this year’s show.<br />

BWDN: How did TAG Heuer do<br />

in 2011? What are its 2012/2013<br />

goals?<br />

Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin: We did<br />

better than Swiss exports but we<br />

are a bit confused, as most brands<br />

claim <strong>the</strong> same and ma<strong>the</strong>matically<br />

it does not work. Anyway,<br />

we did much better and gained<br />

market share reinforcing our<br />

worldwide leadership in prestigious<br />

chronographs thanks in particular<br />

<strong>to</strong> our in-house manufactured<br />

Calibre 1887, which won<br />

<strong>the</strong> Geneva Watchmaking Grand<br />

Prix in 2010 as <strong>the</strong> best affordable<br />

Manufacture Chronograph.<br />

For 2012/ 13 we keep planning <strong>to</strong><br />

over-perform <strong>the</strong> market, again<br />

with our in-house manufactured<br />

chronograph calibres (1887,<br />

SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012<br />

Expanding market share<br />

TAG Heuer’s Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin on strategies and products<br />

Easily one of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p watchmaking<br />

feats, <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>urbillon (translated<br />

in French as whirlwind) has<br />

become a watch lovers dream<br />

thanks <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> many and varied<br />

new evolutions of this rare<br />

escapement, which compensates<br />

for <strong>the</strong> effects of gravity on timekeeping.<br />

This year at BASELWORLD,<br />

<strong>to</strong>urbillons reign supreme, with<br />

some very interesting new pieces<br />

coming <strong>to</strong> light for women and<br />

for men. From Chopard, <strong>the</strong> new<br />

Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set is a<br />

stunning work of both art and<br />

craftsmanship − a beautiful blend<br />

of haute horlogerie and haute<br />

Mikrograph, Mikrotimer) but<br />

also our stunning new ladies<br />

watches, and in particular <strong>the</strong><br />

TAG Heuer F1 Steel & Ceramics<br />

blockbuster combined with <strong>the</strong><br />

new Basel 2012 Link Lady collection<br />

endorsed by Cameron Diaz.<br />

BWDN: What are some of your<br />

major debuts at BASELWORLD?<br />

Babin: The new Link Lady and<br />

its flagship, <strong>the</strong> Link Lady Concept,<br />

are our Basel 2012 heroes<br />

and embody <strong>the</strong> TAG Heuer<br />

DNA in pioneering timelessness<br />

proposed <strong>to</strong> ladies. Besides, we<br />

are launching our best Carrera<br />

ever, <strong>the</strong> Carrera 1887 Classic in<br />

a highly elegant 43 mm case and<br />

adorned with plated rose gold<br />

Arabic numbers on white and<br />

black dials. A true timeless manufacture<br />

masterpiece for style and<br />

watch lovers. Also in <strong>the</strong> Carrera<br />

line up, <strong>the</strong> Jack Heuer 80th<br />

birthday as well as <strong>the</strong> Monaco<br />

GP limited editions.<br />

BWDN: What’s new in TAG<br />

Heuer’s sports sponsorships?<br />

Babin: Nothing! We’re consistent<br />

since 152 years with a domination<br />

of ultimate speed and<br />

What a whirlwind!<br />

New <strong>to</strong>urbillon models make <strong>the</strong>ir entry at BASELWORLD<br />

Harry Wins<strong>to</strong>n expresses its high expertise in watchmaking through its His<strong>to</strong>ire de Tourbillon 3.<br />

joaillerie like only Chopard can<br />

achieve. The dazzling diamond<br />

masterpiece is a chronometer-certified<br />

<strong>to</strong>urbillon bearing <strong>the</strong><br />

Poinçon de Genève quality hall<br />

mark. The L.U.C 02-14-L (4T21)<br />

movement has been entirely<br />

developed and created in house<br />

expressly for women. The handwound<br />

movement is equipped<br />

with four stacked, series-coupled<br />

barrels – a patented Quattro (T)<br />

technology that ensures an amazing<br />

nine days of power reserve.<br />

The magnificent white gold case<br />

is done in snow setting, combining<br />

brilliant-cut diamonds of various<br />

diameters. It is also bedecked<br />

Jean-Chris<strong>to</strong>phe Babin, CEO and president.<br />

precision through <strong>the</strong> most prestigious<br />

mo<strong>to</strong>r-racing teams and<br />

champions: in 2012, we’ll team<br />

in F1 with McLaren-Mercedes<br />

and its two world champions,<br />

Lewis Hamil<strong>to</strong>n and Jenson But<strong>to</strong>n,<br />

and at <strong>the</strong> mythical Le Mans<br />

24 with <strong>the</strong> all time winning<br />

Audi Sport Team. A team with<br />

which we already won Le Mans<br />

as official timekeeper in 2010<br />

and 2011. Besides, we’ll be in<br />

tennis with iconic Maria Sharap-<br />

with baguette-cut diamonds. For<br />

added allure, <strong>the</strong> power reserve<br />

indica<strong>to</strong>r is outlined in amethysts.<br />

Offering classic elegance <strong>to</strong> men,<br />

Breguet unveils <strong>the</strong> Tradition<br />

7047 Tourbillon Fusée in rose<br />

gold. This Grande Complication<br />

features a <strong>to</strong>urbillon, fuse and<br />

chain transmission, and Breguet<br />

balance spring in silicon. The<br />

Calibre 569 mechanical hand<br />

wound movement features an<br />

anthracite coating, 43 jewels and<br />

50 hours of power reserve. The<br />

numbered editions offer a power<br />

reserve indica<strong>to</strong>r on <strong>the</strong> barrel<br />

drum. Constant <strong>to</strong>rque is ensured<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> running of <strong>the</strong><br />

watch thanks <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> fuse and<br />

chain transmission.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r exceptional piece is <strong>the</strong><br />

Harry Wins<strong>to</strong>n His<strong>to</strong>ire de Tourbillon<br />

3, a visionary watch created<br />

in a limited edition. The elongated<br />

horizontal rectangular case is created<br />

in white gold and Zalium and<br />

features three dial openings that<br />

are all completely independent yet<br />

linked. An architectural delight,<br />

<strong>the</strong> watch movement consists of<br />

479 parts, but <strong>the</strong> case is amazingly<br />

alluring as well.<br />

Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin<br />

unveils a classically elegant Tourbillon.<br />

Called Witness <strong>On</strong>e, <strong>the</strong><br />

ova and in golf with <strong>the</strong> Suzann<br />

Pettersen.<br />

BWDN: Where do you see <strong>the</strong><br />

best opportunities and growth in<br />

2012?<br />

Babin: Everywhere as long as our<br />

innovation leadership and compelling<br />

positioning and timeless<br />

icons make us in all markets <strong>the</strong><br />

hottest and most aspirational<br />

contemporary luxury watch<br />

brand. We’ll just take market<br />

share from competi<strong>to</strong>rs and<br />

broaden <strong>the</strong> market size thanks <strong>to</strong><br />

our unique designs and mechanical<br />

movements such as Calibre<br />

1887, V4 or Mikrograph 100th.<br />

BWDN: How important is BASEL-<br />

WORLD for TAG Heuer?<br />

Babin: Very much as in seven days<br />

we can meet and share our vision<br />

and news with about 60% of our<br />

world retailing partners and 80%<br />

of <strong>the</strong> key expert and influencing<br />

media, not <strong>to</strong> mention ga<strong>the</strong>ring<br />

all TAG Heuer worldwide teams<br />

<strong>to</strong>p executives representing a global<br />

force of 1,800 passionate<br />

ambassadors worldwide!<br />

Interview by Sabine Zwettler ■<br />

alluring open worked <strong>to</strong>urbillon<br />

movement garners depth and<br />

dimension as a skele<strong>to</strong>n watch.<br />

The hand-wound MRC 800 <strong>to</strong>urbillon<br />

calibre offers hours minutes<br />

and seconds, and beats at<br />

21,600 vibrations per hour. These<br />

<strong>to</strong>urbillons represent but a<br />

glimpse in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ingenuity of <strong>the</strong><br />

watchmakers here at BASEL-<br />

WORLD. (rn) ■<br />

Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin Witness <strong>On</strong>e<br />

Tourbillon Skele<strong>to</strong>n (<strong>to</strong>p). Tradition Breguet<br />

7047 Tourbillon Fusée.

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