On the runway to success - MCH Group

PAGE 13
SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012
Haute Couture horlogerie
Today’s high-end designer watch brands display watchmaking expertise
Creativity and vintage styling
are the key words to use when
describing the newest timepieces
for women and men from highend
designer brands. Whether
feminine or masculine, the newest
watches offer high-tech, highmech
panache with an haute couture
edge. While many of the
brands still remain true to their
runway offerings in terms of patterns,
prints or colours, others
have simply stepped watchmaking
up a notch to where the brand
almost stands on its own.
Naturally, the design houses
remain ever faithful to their vigilant
female followers, with superbly
designed and crafted timepieces.
Chanel surprises and delights
with its Première Flying Tourbillon
watch. Crafted in a fully diamond-adorned
case, the watch is
created in celebration of the 25th
anniversary of the first watch in
this line − whose case shape was
inspired by the octagonal geometry
of the famed Chanel No. 5
perfume bottle stopper, and of
the Place Vendôme.
The exceptional watch is the
result of a close collaboration
between Chanel and Swiss master
watchmakers Renaud & Papi. The
Swiss luxury brand Vulcain
has a history of watchmaking
achievement. It invented the first
operational mechanical alarm
wristwatch and its Cricket timepiece
was long known as the
‘Presidents’ Watch.’ CEO Bernard
Fleury tells BWDN how
the brand, located in LeLocle,
Switzerland, is building on its
heritage with new watches that
incorporate innovation and tradition.
BWDN: One of Vulcain’s historic
achievements is its hand-wound
Cricket movement. What’s happening
now with the Cricket?
Bernard Fleury: In the past
decade, our team of engineers,
watchmakers and designers have
developed the legendary Cricket
movement into 6 different, highquality
versions, from a traditional
manual winding calibre to
the self-winding version. Today,
Vulcain is recognized as having
the best and most sophisticated
mechanical alarm movement.
BWDN: Two new Vulcain watches
in 2012 are the Heritage Presidents’
Watch and 50s Presidents’
Watch. Can you share some
details?
Fendi Chameleon. Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon.
The Couture brands display technical prowess.
tourbillon escapement, visible
at 6 o’clock, is decorated with
Chanel’s Camellia floral motif.
The flying Tourbillon makes one
rotation per minute, with the petals
indicating the seconds.
The Camellia Flying Tourbillon
Calibre is mounted on a custom-designed
rectangular bottom
plate. The dial of the watch is
black ceramic and the case, bezel
and crown are entirely set with
baguette-cut or round-cut diamonds
or precious gemstones −
totaling 7.7 carats. Just 20 pieces
will be created.
Versace also moves to the mastery
of high art forms with its new
High quality and sophistication
Vulcain is expanding in key markets worldwide
Bernard Fleury, CEO Vulcain.
Fleury: Vulcain created the first
genuinely-functional mechanical
alarm movement in 1947, starting
an unprecedented lineage. From
then onwards, U.S. presidents,
starting with Harry S. Truman,
proudly wore the Vulcain Cricket
alarm model, earning the brand
the reputation as ‘The Watch for
Presidents’.
These new watches are inspired
by a 1950s Vulcain model and
meet the highest contemporary
standards. The Heritage President’s
Watch limited edition
Mystique Collection, including
the stunning Hibiscus and Flora
watches with stunning enamel
dials recalling the beauty and
elegance of nature’s flowers in
bright colours, interspersed with
gold vines and leaves. Each watch
is further bedecked with a diamond
bezel and finished with a
colour-coordinated strap.
Similarly, Ferragamo unveils the
shimmering Poème Limited-Edition
series. These stunning round
watches feature totally gem-set
dials with intermittent diamonds
on them and a diamond bezel
for the ultimate romance that a
poem can offer.
and the 50s Presidents’ Watch
each come in two-tone 18K rose
gold and steel, or steel only.
The Heritage Watch models are
equipped with Vulcain’s proprietary
Cricket calibre V-10, and
the 50s Presidents’ models have
Cricket V-11. Both, of course,
feature the alarm function, Vulcain’s
signature complication.
BWND: Is Vulcain adding other
new watches in 2012?
Fleury: Yes, there are three new
lines. There is a limited edition
of the 50s Presidents’ Watch
issued for Herbie Hancock, the
famous jazz pianist. It comes
in 18K rose gold or steel, with
an amazing sunray blue dial. It
uses Vulcain’s proprietary calibre
Cricket V-11, with alarm.
The second is the 50s Presidents’
Classic. It is an extra-flat version
of the Presidents’ model, with
a self-winding movement and
available in 18K rose gold and in
steel. The third collection is the
50s Presidents’ Chronograph in
a mono-pusher version, with an
automatic movement and in 18K
rose gold or in steel.
BWDN: How do you expect for
Vulcain’s business in 2012?
Even Dior remains true to its
high-diamond artistic prowess,
unveiling new Dior VIII pieces
in black ceramic with ceramic
pyramids and beautiful diamond
motifs on the dials. The oscillating
weight of the automatic
movement is black lacquered,
and visible through its transparent
sapphire caseback. Several
sizes and renditions − summing
up to 16 models − are being
unveiled of this black beauty.
From Fendi comes the Chameleon,
characterized by the bold
use of colour and the ingenious
FF Fendi cut-out logo on the
elongated case. (rn) ■
Fleury: We’re expecting an
expansion of our brand development
in 2012, as we inject more
investments into our distribution
network in key markets in Asia,
the U.S.A. and Europe.
BWDN: How many watches does
Vulcain produce annually?
Fleury: Right now, we produce
less than 5,000 watches annually.
Our in-house movements are produced
with ‘Exactomatic’ construction
− a Vulcain exclusive
− and every watch which leaves
our factory has gone through a
series of quality controls, including
careful checking of timing,
amplitude, and water-resistance.
BWDN: Where are Vulcain’s best
opportunities in 2012?
Fleury: We have a clear strategy to
focus on major key markets. They
are, first, North America, followed
by Switzerland, France, and Germany
in Europe; then, North Asia
(Hong Kong, China, Taiwan);
and next, South Asia (Singapore,
Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand)
These are the fastest growing markets
of the Swiss watch industry
and for Vulcain, too.
Interview: William G. Shuster ■
WATCHES
■ NEWS.TRENDS
Michel Herbelin’s Newport
Yacht Club combines sets sail in a
43.5 mm stainless steel case with a
water resistance of 100 metres. The
new timepiece is driven by a Swiss
automatic movement. It features a
sapphire crystal and a screwed-in
see-through caseback. (sz) 1.1, B11
Michel Herbelin Newport.
The Rado True Thinline Automatic
Skeleton, with a 7.8 mm profile, is the
world’s thinnest ceramic watch. The
heart of the watch is visible through
an openworked dial that exposes
the ETA 2892-S2 calibre movement.
The white rubber strap is totally integrated
into the ceramic case, which
ensures a comfortable fit. Striking
blue hour and minute hands provide
the perfect contrast against the white
and grey tones of the bezel, movement
and markings. The steel crown
is set with a ceramic cabochon. (cb)
1.0, C01
Rado True Thinline.
Timex launches the new T-Series
Racing Fly-Back Chronograph driven
by its own Intelligent Quarz technology.
Besides the stop function measuring
the 1/5 second, the movement
features a second time zone and a
date indication. The new timepiece is
clad in a 43 mm stainless steel/PVD
or stainless steel/titanium case water
resistant to 10 atm or 100 metres.
The strap options include a black or a
sandy leather version. (sz) 1.1, D47
T-Series Racing Fly-Back Chronograph.