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PAGE 13 SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012 Haute Couture horlogerie Today’s high-end designer watch brands display watchmaking expertise Creativity and vintage styling are <strong>the</strong> key words <strong>to</strong> use when describing <strong>the</strong> newest timepieces for women and men from highend designer brands. Whe<strong>the</strong>r feminine or masculine, <strong>the</strong> newest watches offer high-tech, highmech panache with an haute couture edge. While many of <strong>the</strong> brands still remain true <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>runway</strong> offerings in terms of patterns, prints or colours, o<strong>the</strong>rs have simply stepped watchmaking up a notch <strong>to</strong> where <strong>the</strong> brand almost stands on its own. Naturally, <strong>the</strong> design houses remain ever faithful <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir vigilant female followers, with superbly designed and crafted timepieces. Chanel surprises and delights with its Première Flying Tourbillon watch. Crafted in a fully diamond-adorned case, <strong>the</strong> watch is created in celebration of <strong>the</strong> 25th anniversary of <strong>the</strong> first watch in this line − whose case shape was inspired by <strong>the</strong> octagonal geometry of <strong>the</strong> famed Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle s<strong>to</strong>pper, and of <strong>the</strong> Place Vendôme. The exceptional watch is <strong>the</strong> result of a close collaboration between Chanel and Swiss master watchmakers Renaud & Papi. The Swiss luxury brand Vulcain has a his<strong>to</strong>ry of watchmaking achievement. It invented <strong>the</strong> first operational mechanical alarm wristwatch and its Cricket timepiece was long known as <strong>the</strong> ‘Presidents’ Watch.’ CEO Bernard Fleury tells BWDN how <strong>the</strong> brand, located in LeLocle, Switzerland, is building on its heritage with new watches that incorporate innovation and tradition. BWDN: <strong>On</strong>e of Vulcain’s his<strong>to</strong>ric achievements is its hand-wound Cricket movement. What’s happening now with <strong>the</strong> Cricket? Bernard Fleury: In <strong>the</strong> past decade, our team of engineers, watchmakers and designers have developed <strong>the</strong> legendary Cricket movement in<strong>to</strong> 6 different, highquality versions, from a traditional manual winding calibre <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> self-winding version. Today, Vulcain is recognized as having <strong>the</strong> best and most sophisticated mechanical alarm movement. BWDN: Two new Vulcain watches in 2012 are <strong>the</strong> Heritage Presidents’ Watch and 50s Presidents’ Watch. Can you share some details? Fendi Chameleon. Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon. The Couture brands display technical prowess. <strong>to</strong>urbillon escapement, visible at 6 o’clock, is decorated with Chanel’s Camellia floral motif. The flying Tourbillon makes one rotation per minute, with <strong>the</strong> petals indicating <strong>the</strong> seconds. The Camellia Flying Tourbillon Calibre is mounted on a cus<strong>to</strong>m-designed rectangular bot<strong>to</strong>m plate. The dial of <strong>the</strong> watch is black ceramic and <strong>the</strong> case, bezel and crown are entirely set with baguette-cut or round-cut diamonds or precious gems<strong>to</strong>nes − <strong>to</strong>taling 7.7 carats. Just 20 pieces will be created. Versace also moves <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> mastery of high art forms with its new High quality and sophistication Vulcain is expanding in key markets worldwide Bernard Fleury, CEO Vulcain. Fleury: Vulcain created <strong>the</strong> first genuinely-functional mechanical alarm movement in 1947, starting an unprecedented lineage. From <strong>the</strong>n onwards, U.S. presidents, starting with Harry S. Truman, proudly wore <strong>the</strong> Vulcain Cricket alarm model, earning <strong>the</strong> brand <strong>the</strong> reputation as ‘The Watch for Presidents’. These new watches are inspired by a 1950s Vulcain model and meet <strong>the</strong> highest contemporary standards. The Heritage President’s Watch limited edition Mystique Collection, including <strong>the</strong> stunning Hibiscus and Flora watches with stunning enamel dials recalling <strong>the</strong> beauty and elegance of nature’s flowers in bright colours, interspersed with gold vines and leaves. Each watch is fur<strong>the</strong>r bedecked with a diamond bezel and finished with a colour-coordinated strap. Similarly, Ferragamo unveils <strong>the</strong> shimmering Poème Limited-Edition series. These stunning round watches feature <strong>to</strong>tally gem-set dials with intermittent diamonds on <strong>the</strong>m and a diamond bezel for <strong>the</strong> ultimate romance that a poem can offer. and <strong>the</strong> 50s Presidents’ Watch each come in two-<strong>to</strong>ne 18K rose gold and steel, or steel only. The Heritage Watch models are equipped with Vulcain’s proprietary Cricket calibre V-10, and <strong>the</strong> 50s Presidents’ models have Cricket V-11. Both, of course, feature <strong>the</strong> alarm function, Vulcain’s signature complication. BWND: Is Vulcain adding o<strong>the</strong>r new watches in 2012? Fleury: Yes, <strong>the</strong>re are three new lines. There is a limited edition of <strong>the</strong> 50s Presidents’ Watch issued for Herbie Hancock, <strong>the</strong> famous jazz pianist. It comes in 18K rose gold or steel, with an amazing sunray blue dial. It uses Vulcain’s proprietary calibre Cricket V-11, with alarm. The second is <strong>the</strong> 50s Presidents’ Classic. It is an extra-flat version of <strong>the</strong> Presidents’ model, with a self-winding movement and available in 18K rose gold and in steel. The third collection is <strong>the</strong> 50s Presidents’ Chronograph in a mono-pusher version, with an au<strong>to</strong>matic movement and in 18K rose gold or in steel. BWDN: How do you expect for Vulcain’s business in 2012? Even Dior remains true <strong>to</strong> its high-diamond artistic prowess, unveiling new Dior VIII pieces in black ceramic with ceramic pyramids and beautiful diamond motifs on <strong>the</strong> dials. The oscillating weight of <strong>the</strong> au<strong>to</strong>matic movement is black lacquered, and visible through its transparent sapphire caseback. Several sizes and renditions − summing up <strong>to</strong> 16 models − are being unveiled of this black beauty. From Fendi comes <strong>the</strong> Chameleon, characterized by <strong>the</strong> bold use of colour and <strong>the</strong> ingenious FF Fendi cut-out logo on <strong>the</strong> elongated case. (rn) ■ Fleury: We’re expecting an expansion of our brand development in 2012, as we inject more investments in<strong>to</strong> our distribution network in key markets in Asia, <strong>the</strong> U.S.A. and Europe. BWDN: How many watches does Vulcain produce annually? Fleury: Right now, we produce less than 5,000 watches annually. Our in-house movements are produced with ‘Exac<strong>to</strong>matic’ construction − a Vulcain exclusive − and every watch which leaves our fac<strong>to</strong>ry has gone through a series of quality controls, including careful checking of timing, amplitude, and water-resistance. BWDN: Where are Vulcain’s best opportunities in 2012? Fleury: We have a clear strategy <strong>to</strong> focus on major key markets. They are, first, North America, followed by Switzerland, France, and Germany in Europe; <strong>the</strong>n, North Asia (Hong Kong, China, Taiwan); and next, South Asia (Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand) These are <strong>the</strong> fastest growing markets of <strong>the</strong> Swiss watch industry and for Vulcain, <strong>to</strong>o. Interview: William G. Shuster ■ WATCHES ■ NEWS.TRENDS Michel Herbelin’s Newport Yacht Club combines sets sail in a 43.5 mm stainless steel case with a water resistance of 100 metres. The new timepiece is driven by a Swiss au<strong>to</strong>matic movement. It features a sapphire crystal and a screwed-in see-through caseback. (sz) 1.1, B11 Michel Herbelin Newport. The Rado True Thinline Au<strong>to</strong>matic Skele<strong>to</strong>n, with a 7.8 mm profile, is <strong>the</strong> world’s thinnest ceramic watch. The heart of <strong>the</strong> watch is visible through an openworked dial that exposes <strong>the</strong> ETA 2892-S2 calibre movement. The white rubber strap is <strong>to</strong>tally integrated in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> ceramic case, which ensures a comfortable fit. Striking blue hour and minute hands provide <strong>the</strong> perfect contrast against <strong>the</strong> white and grey <strong>to</strong>nes of <strong>the</strong> bezel, movement and markings. The steel crown is set with a ceramic cabochon. (cb) 1.0, C01 Rado True Thinline. Timex launches <strong>the</strong> new T-Series Racing Fly-Back Chronograph driven by its own Intelligent Quarz technology. Besides <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p function measuring <strong>the</strong> 1/5 second, <strong>the</strong> movement features a second time zone and a date indication. The new timepiece is clad in a 43 mm stainless steel/PVD or stainless steel/titanium case water resistant <strong>to</strong> 10 atm or 100 metres. The strap options include a black or a sandy lea<strong>the</strong>r version. (sz) 1.1, D47 T-Series Racing Fly-Back Chronograph.
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