On the runway to success - MCH Group

SATURDAY, MARCH 10, 2012 

BASELWORLD I THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW I WHERE BUSINESS BEGINS AND TRENDS ARE CREATED I MARCH 8 - 15, 2012 

Building on its global success, 

TAG Heuer adresses 

men and women in 2012. 

CEO Jean-Christophe 

Babin says why. 

Page 2 

A romantic indication 

catching the heart of 

aficionados, the moon 

phase has a grand 

entrance in Basel. 

Page 6 

Nathalie Guedj talks 

about the importance of 

dance and music for the 

new Carrera y Carrera 

collection. 

Page 26 

On the runway to success 

First Avenue is the place to be for premium jewellery brands 

Those in search of premium jewellery 

at BASELWORLD 2012 

are well advised to pay a visit 

to First Avenue in hall 2.2. 

Each year this is the venue for 

leading global brands to present 

their new products. Much like 

the major watch manufacturers, 

the names present here awaken 

strong emotions in people. It is 

not only the stand structures that 

are impressive statements of the 

significance of these brands for 

the global market. The masterpieces 

of goldsmithing artistry on 

display in the cabinets whisk the 

observer into a fairytale world 

of 1,001 nights with the finest 

gemstones in every colour of 

the rainbow, glittering diamonds, 

the gentle glow of pearls and 

the radiance of precious metals. 

All of the ‘girl’s best friends’ are 

gathered here. This unique treasure 

chamber also has numerous 

tales to tell because behind the 

major jewellery brands are visionaries, 

artists and master goldsmiths. 

They maintain centuries- 

old traditions of craftsmanship, 

numbering amongst the very few 

able to do so. The jewellery is 

aimed at a highly exquisite global 

clientele. Many of the firms 

exhibiting here are family-run 

companies, and have been for 

generations. Giuseppe Picchiotti, 

proprietor of the eponymous 

company, says: “We have been 

present in First Avenue from the 

very beginning. And every year 

the investment pays off. Next 

year we even plan to invest in a 

bigger stand.” Dominique Delale, 

business director for jewellery 

Noblesse oblige: It is only the elite amongst jewellery brands that return regularly to First Avenue at BASELWORLD. 

and accessories at Baccarat, also 

views First Avenue as the ideal 

location for their jewellery: “It’s 

not only a meeting point with 

our customers. The presentation 

here is also a message of our 

brand that forms our image.” 

(ahe) n 

Elegance starts with the movement 

Patek Philippe stays true to its roots 

Since 1839 without interruption, 

the independent watch 

brand has been perpetuating the 

tradition of finest Swiss watchmaking. 

Here, Patek Philippe 

president Thierry Stern shares 

his fascination of complicated 

watches for men and women 

with BWDN. 

BWDN: Patek Philippe is again 

presenting an impressive collection 

of new watches. What is 

your own personal highlight? 

Thierry Stern: For me, it’s 

undoubtedly the Reference 5204, 

our new split second chronograph 

with a perpetual calendar, 

which impresses with its complex 

mechanism and its design. We are 

also presenting some beautiful 

new models for women this year. 

I particularly like our perpetual 

calendar for women and this is 

confirmed by the positive reactions 

received here at BASEL- 

WORLD. 

BWDN: You are also exhibiting 

some other new models for 

women. Are women interested in 

mechanics? 

Stern: It varies. Some women 

want a watch to look great and 

nothing more. But others want to 

invest in something, which will 

retain its value as well as being 

attractive and complicated. This 

demand first emerged in Asia 

and has now spread to Europe, 

increasing year on year. 

BWDN: Over the last seven 

years, you have presented eight 

new chronograph movements. 

How have you achieved this? 

Stern: It’s only possible because 

we have developed extensive 

Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe. 

experience in producing chronographs 

since 1927. This has given 

us the opportunity and expertise 

to implement such rapid developments. 

BWDN: The collection is constantly 

refreshed with updated 

classic models. What is important 

in this process? 

Stern: It’s not about changing 

colours, for example. It’s about 

the many details, which come 

together to create a whole. You 

have to analyse and test things 

accurately and this takes a long 

time and is very laborious. It’s 

surprising but in fact it’s much 

easier to create new watches from 

scratch! 

Interview: Iris Wimmer-Olbort n 

Flowers, fish and princesses 

− the exceptional 

carved masterpieces of 

gem artists on display in 

the Hall of Elements. 

Page 41 

I am delighted to welcome you 

to the 40th World Watch and 

Jewellery Show in Basel. 

As our guest, you will be able 

to experience firsthand what 

is happening worldwide in 

the industry, since this is the 

very point where trends are 

set, innovations presented and 

business relations fostered. 

Let yourself be captivated by 

this fascinating world of watches 

and jewellery and experience 

the unique charm that 

our show exudes every year. 

For a total of eight days, you 

will now have the opportunity 

to marvel at these impressive 

novelties as you walk round 

the exquisite stands and also 

to engage in a large number of 

interesting conversations. 

This year too, some 1,800 

exhibitors from 41 countries 

will be benefitting from the 

unique infrastructure offered 

by BASELWORLD to showcase 

their latest products and 

creations. 

It is with great pleasure that we 

are playing host to the world’s 

watch and jewellery industry 

at BASELWORLD. The loyalty 

of our exhibitors and of 

the countless visitors who have 

kept coming back year after 

year underlines the international 

status of this event. 

I wish you a wonderful show 

and a successful stay here in 

Basel. 

Sylvie Ritter 

Managing Director BASELWORLD

WATCHES PAGE 2 

■ CONTENT 

Watches 

TAG Heuer / Tourbillons 2 

Longines / Pilot’s watches 4 

Ulysse Nardin / Moon phase 6 

Seiko / Diver’s watches 8 

Vulcain / Couture watches 13 

Tendence / Rotary / Savoy 15 

Ice-Watch / Sandoz 17 

Palace 

HYT / Christophe Claret 22 

Trends 

Black & White 22 

Jewellery 

Pranda Group 22 

Meissen / Picchiotti 24 

Carrera y Carrera / Detachable 

earrings 26 

Ole Lynggaard / Jewelmer 30 

Lalique / Tamara Comolli 32 

Technique 

Rapid prototyping 34 

Tools / Witschi / books 38 

Gemstones 

Carvings 41 

Countries 

India 43 

International Markets 

Luxury good markets 47 

Service, Imprint 50 

Village 52 

Premium specialised retail 

Knar Jewellers / Pierre Dubail 54 

■ NEWS.TRENDS 

Chopard has confirmed its position 

as an exceptional innovator 

and manufacturer with its exciting 

new technical feat: with the 

calibre L.U.C 01.06-L, the new and 

modern-design chronograph L.U.C 

8HF houses the first high frequency 

watch movement with a COSC chronometer 

certificate. The special feature 

of this movement is the stroke 

rate of the balance wheel which 

vibrates twice as fast as the balance 

wheel of standard movements at 

57,600 semi-oscillations. This offers 

a high degree of precision and stability. 

Despite its fast oscillation, the 

new calibre has a power reserve of 

60 hours with just one barrel. This 

is all possible thanks to the silicon 

escapement components and a new 

combination of silicon and steel 

which has been filed for patent. (iwi) 

1.0/D07 

Chopard L.U.C 8HF. 

Ever since 1860, TAG Heuer has 

successfully blazed its own trail 

by asserting itself as a specialist 

of mechanical chronographs 

and has become synonymous 

with luxurious sport watches. 

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO 

and president, talks about wellknown 

icons in new versions 

and the focus on ladies’ watches 

at this year’s show. 

BWDN: How did TAG Heuer do 

in 2011? What are its 2012/2013 

goals? 

Jean-Christophe Babin: We did 

better than Swiss exports but we 

are a bit confused, as most brands 

claim the same and mathematically 

it does not work. Anyway, 

we did much better and gained 

market share reinforcing our 

worldwide leadership in prestigious 

chronographs thanks in particular 

to our in-house manufactured 

Calibre 1887, which won 

the Geneva Watchmaking Grand 

Prix in 2010 as the best affordable 

Manufacture Chronograph. 

For 2012/ 13 we keep planning to 

over-perform the market, again 

with our in-house manufactured 

chronograph calibres (1887, 

SATURDAY. MARCH 10. 2012 

Expanding market share 

TAG Heuer’s Jean-Christophe Babin on strategies and products 

Easily one of the top watchmaking 

feats, the tourbillon (translated 

in French as whirlwind) has 

become a watch lovers dream 

thanks to the many and varied 

new evolutions of this rare 

escapement, which compensates 

for the effects of gravity on timekeeping. 

This year at BASELWORLD, 

tourbillons reign supreme, with 

some very interesting new pieces 

coming to light for women and 

for men. From Chopard, the new 

Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set is a 

stunning work of both art and 

craftsmanship − a beautiful blend 

of haute horlogerie and haute 

Mikrograph, Mikrotimer) but 

also our stunning new ladies 

watches, and in particular the 

TAG Heuer F1 Steel & Ceramics 

blockbuster combined with the 

new Basel 2012 Link Lady collection 

endorsed by Cameron Diaz. 

BWDN: What are some of your 

major debuts at BASELWORLD? 

Babin: The new Link Lady and 

its flagship, the Link Lady Concept, 

are our Basel 2012 heroes 

and embody the TAG Heuer 

DNA in pioneering timelessness 

proposed to ladies. Besides, we 

are launching our best Carrera 

ever, the Carrera 1887 Classic in 

a highly elegant 43 mm case and 

adorned with plated rose gold 

Arabic numbers on white and 

black dials. A true timeless manufacture 

masterpiece for style and 

watch lovers. Also in the Carrera 

line up, the Jack Heuer 80th 

birthday as well as the Monaco 

GP limited editions. 

BWDN: What’s new in TAG 

Heuer’s sports sponsorships? 

Babin: Nothing! We’re consistent 

since 152 years with a domination 

of ultimate speed and 

What a whirlwind! 

New tourbillon models make their entry at BASELWORLD 

Harry Winston expresses its high expertise in watchmaking through its Histoire de Tourbillon 3. 

joaillerie like only Chopard can 

achieve. The dazzling diamond 

masterpiece is a chronometer-certified 

tourbillon bearing the 

Poinçon de Genève quality hall 

mark. The L.U.C 02-14-L (4T21) 

movement has been entirely 

developed and created in house 

expressly for women. The handwound 

movement is equipped 

with four stacked, series-coupled 

barrels – a patented Quattro (T) 

technology that ensures an amazing 

nine days of power reserve. 

The magnificent white gold case 

is done in snow setting, combining 

brilliant-cut diamonds of various 

diameters. It is also bedecked 

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO and president. 

precision through the most prestigious 

motor-racing teams and 

champions: in 2012, we’ll team 

in F1 with McLaren-Mercedes 

and its two world champions, 

Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button, 

and at the mythical Le Mans 

24 with the all time winning 

Audi Sport Team. A team with 

which we already won Le Mans 

as official timekeeper in 2010 

and 2011. Besides, we’ll be in 

tennis with iconic Maria Sharap- 

with baguette-cut diamonds. For 

added allure, the power reserve 

indicator is outlined in amethysts. 

Offering classic elegance to men, 

Breguet unveils the Tradition 

7047 Tourbillon Fusée in rose 

gold. This Grande Complication 

features a tourbillon, fuse and 

chain transmission, and Breguet 

balance spring in silicon. The 

Calibre 569 mechanical hand 

wound movement features an 

anthracite coating, 43 jewels and 

50 hours of power reserve. The 

numbered editions offer a power 

reserve indicator on the barrel 

drum. Constant torque is ensured 

throughout the running of the 

watch thanks to the fuse and 

chain transmission. 

Another exceptional piece is the 

Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 

3, a visionary watch created 

in a limited edition. The elongated 

horizontal rectangular case is created 

in white gold and Zalium and 

features three dial openings that 

are all completely independent yet 

linked. An architectural delight, 

the watch movement consists of 

479 parts, but the case is amazingly 

alluring as well. 

Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin 

unveils a classically elegant Tourbillon. 

Called Witness One, the 

ova and in golf with the Suzann 

Pettersen. 

BWDN: Where do you see the 

best opportunities and growth in 

2012? 

Babin: Everywhere as long as our 

innovation leadership and compelling 

positioning and timeless 

icons make us in all markets the 

hottest and most aspirational 

contemporary luxury watch 

brand. We’ll just take market 

share from competitors and 

broaden the market size thanks to 

our unique designs and mechanical 

movements such as Calibre 

1887, V4 or Mikrograph 100th. 

BWDN: How important is BASEL- 

WORLD for TAG Heuer? 

Babin: Very much as in seven days 

we can meet and share our vision 

and news with about 60% of our 

world retailing partners and 80% 

of the key expert and influencing 

media, not to mention gathering 

all TAG Heuer worldwide teams 

top executives representing a global 

force of 1,800 passionate 

ambassadors worldwide! 

Interview by Sabine Zwettler ■ 

alluring open worked tourbillon 

movement garners depth and 

dimension as a skeleton watch. 

The hand-wound MRC 800 tourbillon 

calibre offers hours minutes 

and seconds, and beats at 

21,600 vibrations per hour. These 

tourbillons represent but a 

glimpse into the ingenuity of the 

watchmakers here at BASEL- 

WORLD. (rn) ■ 

Manufacture Rodolphe Cattin Witness One 

Tourbillon Skeleton (top). Tradition Breguet 

7047 Tourbillon Fusée.

From the Gemini Collection 

THERE IS A MOMENT WHEN IMAGINATION BECOMES INNOVATION. 

Perhaps no one captures this moment more often than Sir Richard Branson. Of course, this 

doesn’t happen by chance. It happens because he pursues vision. Relentlessly. That is why 

he wears Bulova Accutron. The timepiece that reinvents accuracy time and again. 

Bulova Accutron: Innovation never rests. 

HALL 1.1 BOOTH B19 

swiss made. 

self made. 

Sir Richard Branson 

Founder of Virgin Group. 

Sir Richard Branson’s proceeds as brand ambassador were donated to Virgin Unite, Virgin’s non-profit foundation. www.virginunite.com


Walter von Känel, president 

of Swiss luxury watch brand 

Longines, tells BWDN how it is 

marking its 180th anniversary, 

talks about timepieces based on 

its watchmaking heritage, spotlights 

its strongest markets, and 

tells why support of equestrian 

sports is important to the brand. 

BWDN: How was Longines’ business 

in 2011; what do you expect 

in 2012? 

Walter von Känel: It was an 

excellent year for the Swiss watch 

industry, for the Swatch Group 

and for Longines. Our aim for 

2012 is to keep going on. 

BWDN: Where are Longines’ 

best opportunities in the next 12 

months? 

von Känel: Greater China, 

Europe and the U.S.A. are currently 

the strongest markets. Our 

strategies in the fields of product 

development, marketing and 

pricing are matching the needs of 

the customers in these regions. 

We are present in almost all the 

countries. The BRIC countries 


180 years of elegant performance 

Successful strategies are driving Longines’ sales 

Walter von Känel, president Longines. 

(Brazil, Russia, India and China) 

are doing well, or even very well, 

except for Brazil where we have 

to reconsider our strategy. 

BWDN: Longines is the timekeeper 

and/or sponsor of a 

number of equestrian sporting 

activities, including elite events 

in the Middle East, China, Germany 

and England. Why is this 

important to the brand? 

von Känel: Longines has been 

active in equestrian disciplines 

for many decades. We’ve cho- 

sen to be involved in equestrian 

events − that is, horseracing, 

show-jumping and endurance races 

− to stress these sports’ aesthetic 

appeal and human qualities, 

which dovetail with our products’ 

essential qualities. Furthermore, 

these sports express the values of 

elegance, tradition and performance 

that are dear to the brand. 

BWDN: In recent years, Longines 

debuted a number of watches − 

such as its Lindbergh Atlantic 

Voyage watches − based on classic 

Longines timepieces. What 

new watches drawn from its 

watchmaking heritage are being 

shown this year? 

Känel: We’ve been re-issuing heritage 

pieces for quite a long time 

now, and have a strong legitimacy 

in this segment. As Longines is 

celebrating its 180th anniversary 

this year, we’re going to launch 

several re-editions of heritage 

pieces enhancing the rich history 

of Longines. 

BWDN: What else is Longines 

spotlighting here? 

The new dawn of pilot’s pieces 

For serious pilots or weekend pilots – a host of new watches take off from the show 

Pilot watches aren’t new. In fact 

they have enjoyed a century of 

fame − accompanying explorers 

such as Charles Lindbergh 

and Amelia Earnhardt on their 

quests. Today’s top watch brands 

offer a competitive edge with 

precision and functions a pilot 

may need in the field. Additionally, 

most are venturing into 

the world of high-tech materials 

to clad these watches − making 

them ever more rugged and reliable 

and readable. 

Breitling unveils the Chronomat 

44 GMT in a new diameter. The 

watch houses the COSC-certified 

chronometer 04 Calibre manufactured 

entirely in house by Brei- 

tling. It offers hours, minutes, 

seconds, date, second time zone 

and third time zone on the bezel, 

chronograph to ¼ of a second, 

30-minutes and 12 hours, and 

tachymeter bezel − all in a magnificent 

44 mm stainless steel case. 

New from Vogard is the Datezoner 

Pilot watch − an amazing 

technical functioning watch that 

is the only watch to change date 

and time zones via the bezel. 

The date is set via the bezel 

and is synchronized with the 

time zones and the cities on 

the bezel. The unique, patented 

mechanism ensures that the date 

changes automatically when the 

hour hand is moved over the 

The Heritage Pilot is a contemporary rendition of Alpina’s 1920s and 1930s pilot’s watches. 

midnight line. The chronograph 

watch offers UTC time, as well. 

The entire complex movement 

is housed inside a titanium case 

that is ultra strong yet super light 

weight. DST is automatically 

accounted for in the northern 

and southern hemispheres. The 

world time chronograph Datezoner 

Pilot watch with three 

complications offers a sapphire 

crystal. 

Bell & Ross this year moves 

strongly into high-tech materials, 

unveiling the BR01-94 in 

Carbon Fiber. This mechanical 

automatic three-counter chronograph 

with date is crafted in an 

XL 46 mm carbon fiber case with 

a two-tone decor and matching 

strap. The black Clous de 

Paris dial features luminescent 

coating for easy readability. 

Similarly, Hanhart unveils the 

Pioneer Stealth 1882 Limited 

edition watch with bicompax 

automatic movement and 

black ADLC coated stainless 

steel case. The flyback chronograph 

with tachymeter scale and 

telemeter scale features a bidirectional 

rotating bezel with convex 

sapphire glass and antireflective 

sapphire crystal. 

Offering pilot timing with vintage 

flair, Alpina unveils its Heritage 

Pilot watch in a contemporary 

rendition of the Alpina 

pilot watches from the 1920’s 

von Känel: We’re launching The 

Longines Saint-Imier Collection − 

exceptional timepieces exclusively 

with mechanical movements. 

These models pay tribute to Saint- 

Imier, the village in Switzerland 

where Longines was founded in 

1832. The company has close 

links with this village, where it 

has developed. So, this collection 

perfectly embodies Longines’ historical 

values.We will also introduce 

some beautiful limited edi- 

and ‘30’s. The watch features a 

hand-wound pocket watch calibre, 

AL-435, with 17 jewels and 

42 hours of power reserve. The 

alluring timepiece features a 

script Alpina logo on the black 

dial, and a sub-seconds hand at 

6:00, along with Arabic numerals 

– offering supreme legibility. 

It is crafted in a 50 mm case with 

tion pieces dedicated to Longines’ 

180th anniversary in 2012. 

BWDN: 2011, the Master Collection 

Retrograde Moon Phase 

debuted. How is the response? 

von Känel: Deliveries start soon. 

Based on our experience with initial 

versions of The Longines Master 

Collection Retrograde, we’re 

convinced it’s going to be a hit! 

Interview: William G. Shuster ■ 

Swiss luxury watchmaker Longines celebrated its 180 years of watchmaking excellence with an infor- 

mative, day-long anniversary exhibition of its history staged at the Swatch Plaza on Friday, March 9. 

hinged caseback that opens to 

a sapphire crystal revealing the 

mechanical movement inside. 

Zenith’s Pilot Aéronef Type 20 

is a C.O.S.C.-certified chronometer 

containing the famous 

5011 pocket watch calibre that 

was named the most accurate 

chronometer ever tested by the 

Neuchâtel Observatory in 1967. 

The same calibre has historically 

been used in marine chronometers 

and pocket watches and now 

for the first time in a wristwatch 

debuting at BASELWORLD. 

(rn/sz) ■ 

Just 130 pieces of the Limited Edition 

Hanhart Pioneer Stealth 1882 in black DLC 

coated stainless steel will be produced. 

The Zenith Pilot Aéronef Type 20 

reinterprets the codes of a high-flying 

success from its rich history.

TACTILE TECHNOLOGY 

chosen by Deepika Padukone – Actress 

Glamorous touch screen watch in white 

mother-of-pearl with Top Wesselton diamonds. 

IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME 

Experience more at www.t-touch.com meteo altimeter compass 

DIAMONDS



Ever since the introduction of the legendary 

Museum’s Watch conceived 

by artist Nathan George Horwitt 

more than 60 years ago, a simple 

dot has been the historical source 

for many beautiful timepieces for 

Movado. The brand’s signature 

design is also reflected in the new 

Concerto automatic watch debuting 

this year. The men’s three-hands 

watch comes in stainless steel and 

houses a Swiss automatic movement. 

On its pure black dial the famous dot 

is silver-toned. (sz) 1.0, D01 

Timelessly elegant: the Movado Concerto 

distinguished by a simple dot. 


Focus on independence 

Patrik Hoffmann, Ulysse Nardin, talks a about the new Calibre 118 line 

It’s been just about a year now 

since Patrik Hoffmann took 

over as CEO at Ulysse Nardin 

following the sudden death of 

industry legend Rolf Schnyder, 

and while this year the brand 

houses the exciting Calibre 118 

(announced last year) in a new 

Marine line, Hoffmann says it’s 

all in the plan. 

BWDN: What is your most 

important release this year? 

Patrik Hoffmann: We have many 

new products this year, but the 

most important milestone for 

us is the Calibre 118, which is 

now finished and cased in a new 

model, the Calibre 118 Marine 

Chronometer Manufacture. This 

Calibre is a Nivarox-free escapement 

and is made totally in 

house, with our own DIAMonSil 

hairspring and silicium technology. 

The limited edition piece 

also has an enamel dial that was 

made in house since we pur- 

A heavenly spectacle 

The moon continues to delight watch aficionados 

The moon phase indication is 

probably the most romantic of all 

the watch displays and presents 

the constant waxing and waning 

of the moon in the night sky. 

The moon appears in an everchanging 

form, from the exuberant 

rounded full moon to 

the graceful crescent of the new 

moon, regardless of the position 

of the starry sky as it moves 

around the earth. The moon with 

its immense power has always 

exerted a strong influence on 

earth and mankind. 

It comes as no surprise then that 

the moon phase complication 

has a long-standing tradition in 

watchmaking. During the Middle 

Ages, grandiose church tower 

clocks in various metropolises 

such as Prague, Lucerne and Paris 

featured the moon phases as well 

as other astronomical indications 

Epos 3391: The moon waxes and wanes at 6 o’clock. 

like sunrise and sunset, sidereal 

time and solar and lunar eclipses. 

Already in the 16th century, the 

phases of the moon began to 

appear on clocks and later pocket 

watches. In the 1940s, moon 

phase displays became popular 

on wrist watches, usually combined 

with other calendar features 

such as the day of the week, 

date and month. 

The emergence of the quartz 

watch in the 1970s reduced the 

popularity of mechanical watches 

and astronomical complication 

features. However, the end of 

the so-called ‘quartz crisis’ in 

the 1980s led to a renaissance of 

mechanical watches. Swiss manufacturer 

Blancpain, now part 

of the Swatch Group, gave the 

old astronomical complication a 

sophisticated new look with the 

calibre 6395. The full calendar 

Ulysse Nardin CEO Patrik Hoffmann. 

chased Donze’ Cadrans enamel 

dial maker last year. 

BWDN: Is the new Calibre 

housed in a new case? 

Hoffmann: It took us a while to 

get it right; there was a lot of back 

and forth on the movement, and 

a little on the ultimate case to 

house it in. The first watch in the 

series housing the Calibre 118 is 

with its week day, month and 

date display was stylised using a 

full moon on the moon phase 

display in the form of a smiling 

face. The watch was such a success 

that many other manufacturers 

as well as Blancpain made it a 

fixed part of their collection. 

Maurice Lacroix has been specialising 

in moon indication and retrograde 

displays for many years. The 

new Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde 

featuring a brand-new automatic 

movement, the ML 192, combines 

these two charming complications. 

But that’s not all you get: there is 

also a power reserve, a date display 

and a day-of-the-week indication. 

The new timekeeper comes in a 43 

mm stainless steel case with different 

dial options. 

The Admiral’s Cup is Corum’s 

recognised flagship and 

draws on tradition spanning 

Corum Admiral’s Cup 38 Legend Mystery Moon. 

the iconic Marine Chronometer 

Manufacture case. We are making 

a limited edition of 350 pieces in 

gold with a white enameled dial, 

and a regular series in titanium 

and ceramic, and in titanium 

and steel. 

BWDN: In addition to this being 

a new Calibre, why is this line so 

important? 

Hoffmann: With this movement 

we prove we can remain independent 

− it is a tremendous step 

for us. This is the most important 

part for us − our independence. 

So this is the start of a new era 

for us because we are really turning 

now to in-house production, 

not of a few hundred pieces a 

year, but of a few thousand. 

BWDN: And was this part of 

Rolf’s plan? 

Hoffmann: The decision to do 

this was in place two and a half 

years ago. That’s when we really 

more than 50 

years. Closely 

bound up with 

the world of 

sailing, the 

range has a new 

member addressing 

women who 

have also a passion 

for the moon. The 

Admiral’s Cup 38 

Legend Mystery Moon, 

with its sophisticated 

mother-of-pearl dial 

with eccentric sun ray 

pattern and its octagonal 

stainless steel case adorned 

with 72 diamonds, also a piece 

of haute joaillerie, offers the fascinating 

spectacle of two jumping 

displays: the moon phase, 

located at 7 o’clock, and the 

opposite date at 2 o’clock. Furthermore, 

the disc of the moon 

Blancpain has a strong connection with the display of the moon phases. 

took the step toward making 

our own base Manufacture Calibre. 

The investment really started 

back then, so it part of the plan. 

BWDN: Is there a plan for additional 

Calibre 118 watches? 

Hoffmann: Because the Calibre 

118 is an integrated base movement, 

we can add on modules to 

modify it and to add small complications 

going forward. This is 

just the first in the series. 

BWDN: Will Ulysse Nardin continue 

with additional repeaters, 

or with projects with Oechslin? 

Hoffmann: Yes, that is part of 

our heritage and who we are. We 

already have an exciting complicated 

piece that will be ready 

in the fall of this year. And we 

are well underway with another 

project with Ludwig Oechslin, 

which may be ready in 2014. 

Interview by Roberta Naas ■ 

The Masterpiece Lune 

Rétrograde from 

Maurice Lacroix 

offers captivating 

functions: a retro- 

grade date indication, 

a moon phase and a 

weekday display as well as a 

power reserve. 

phase rotates, too. Six 

diamonds representing 

the stars in the sky further 

highlight the luxurious 

appearance. 

The midnight blue dial of 

the 3391 by Epos also offers 

a magnificent showcase to the 

moon and its many faces. It is 

strewn with white dots that form 

a starry sky. The timepiece also 

offers the indications of the day, 

month and date. (sz) ■

Visit us in Hall of Desires. Hall 1.1. Stand C13

WATCHES 


With the new Kairos Chronograph 

German brand Chronoswiss 

reinterprets the unique design of the 

line, which was first introduced in 

the 1990s. The new model features 

an automatic movement whose fine 

decorations can be admired 

through the sapphire back. 

The sophisticated dial, which 

is crafted from sterling silver 

and refined with a 

wave pattern, displays 

the day and date at 

3 o’clock. The Kairos 

Chronograph comes 

in a 42 mm stainless 

steel or red gold case. 

(sz) 1.1, B03 

Blued steel hands move above the 

solid guilloché sterling silver dial. 

The Dakar Limited Edition watch 

from Edox marks the brand’s sponsorship, 

for the next three years, of 

the Dakar Rally Raid, held in South 

America and crossing through Argentina, 

Chile and Peru, whose flags are 

represented on the dial. The dial of 

the 42 mm stainless-steel watch also 

depicts the race route in white detail 

against the backdrop of a black carbon 

fibre dial. Functions include hours, 

minutes, small seconds and big date. 

The movement is Swiss quartz, and it 

is water-resistant to 100 metres. (cb) 

1.0, B17 

The Edox Dakar Limited Edition celebrates 

the road race through South America. 

Hand craftsmanship is evident in 

the masterful Arceau Marqueterie 

de Paille from Hermès. The dial 

is a composition in straw marquetry, 

specifically using rye straw produced 

by only one farm in France. The 

blue and black motifs in the pair of 

watches depict two iconic Hermès 

tie patterns, featuring chevrons and 

tiny squares. It is equipped with 

the mechanical self-winding calibre 

H1928 movement made by the 

manufacture Vaucher exclusively for 

Hermès. They are packaged in a 

precious Macassar ebony presentation 

box, itself adorned with straw 

marquetry. (cb) 1.0, B17 

The Hermès Arceau Marqueterie de Paille, 

a set of white gold watches with strawmarquetry 

dials. 

Despite the effects of 2011’s natural 

disasters in Asia, Seiko 

expects 2012 to be another year 

of good growth, says Shinji Hattori, 

CEO and president of Seiko 

Watch Co. Though not at the 

show due to illness, he gave 

BWDN this exclusive interview 

on where business is strongest 

some notable 2012 debuts. 

BWDN: Mr. Hattori, how did the 

terrible earthquake and tsunami in 

Japan, and flood in Thailand, in 

2011 affect the operations of Seiko 

Watch Corp.? 


“Growth in every region” 

Seiko sales are especially strong in Asia, the USA and Middle East 

Shinji Hattori, CEO and president of Seiko Watch Co. 

Shinji Hattori: I’m glad to be able 

to say that the tsunami had only a 

small effect on our business, and it 

was very temporary. The flood in 

Thailand, however, submerged our 

clock factory under two metres of 

water. It has had a very significant 

effect, and we’re only now recovering. 

More importantly, however, 

none of our people were hurt or 

made sick by the flood. 

BWDN: How was business for 

Seiko in 2011 and what are your 

expectations for 2012? 

Hattori: 2011 was a strong year for 

Seiko, and we experienced good 

growth in every region. 2012 

should see the continuation of 

this trend. We have designed our 

2012 collection with the expectation 

that the world economy will 

soften slightly, so we believe we’re 

well positioned for a good year 

again, even if the market doesn’t 

grow significantly. 

BWDN: Where do you see the 

Seiko watch brand’s best opportunities 

in the next 12 months? 

Hattori: Of course, Asia remains 

in the lead in terms of growth for 

Seiko at the moment, but we are 

Delightful divers 

Stunning new models right here at BASELWORLD 

Watches that weather the elements 

are a necessity in today’s active lifestyles. 

Divers, in particular, want 

watches they can wear under water 

and know they’ll be able to read 

them in the dark, measure dive 

times and track other needs. Today’s 

watchmakers are determined to 

deliver both form and function in a 

dive watch. 

Dive watches typically are built of 

rugged materials such as steel or 

titanium, are water resistant to 

depths deeper than most will 

explore, and often offer special 

functions useful to the individual 

diver. Typically, dive watches are 

COSC-certified chronometers that 

have undergone rigorous testing in 

various positions and under different 

conditions of pressure, temperature, 

depth and gravity over a period 

of time and are found to pass. 

Additionally, most dive watches 

feature uni-directional rotating bezels 

to measure elapsed time under 

water, most sport luminous hands 

and markers, and anti-glare crystals. 

Some also are equipped with helium 

escape valves and extenders for 

the bracelets to fit over wetsuits. 

Indeed, a host of different options 

exist in dive watches, with more 

being unveiled every day. 

New this year from Clerc is the 

Hydroscaph Steel GMT watch that 

is water resistant to 1,000 metres − 

tempting the finest divers. The 

watch is crafted in the signature 

octagonal Clerc case in stainless 

steel and offers optimum readability. 

It houses the Calibre C6060 

Automatic movement with 28 jewels, 

and is equipped with 45 hours 

of power reserve. 

The watch offers hours, minutes, 

seconds, and date, as well as 24-hour 

second time zone display. The steel 

case is also offered in a black DLC 

coated version and is 44.6 mm. The 

watch features an automatic helium 

valve and anti-reflective sapphire 

crystal and caseback for an all 

around dive tool. 

Tudor Heritage Black Bay is inspired by a 

expecting strong sales in the USA 

and the Middle East as well. 

BWDN: What are two highlights 

of Seiko debuts at BASELWORLD 

2012? 

Hattori: There are more than two, 

but if forced to choose, I would 

highlight the Special Edition 

Grand Seiko Hi-beat 36000 and 

the Sportura chronograph in our 

new women’s collection. 

BWDN: Seiko launched its clean 

energy website in 2011, uses battery-less 

mechanical, Kinetic and 

Spring Drive technologies, and 

supports events like the World 

Solar Challenge. What’s next? 

Hattori: Concern for the environment 

is a core value in everything 

we do and we’ll continue to focus 

development on our ‘green’ technologies. 

Seiko Solar had a very 

successful year in 2011, and you’ll 

see some very exciting new developments 

on this watch line in 2012. 

BWDN: In 2011, Seiko debuted 

the Credor Spring Drive Minute 

Repeater, the line’s first minute 

repeater. What’s new for Credor in 

2012? 

Similarly, Doxa unveils its bold 

Sub 4000T Professional watch. 

This newest dive watch offers unidirectional 

bezel that indicates 

decompression stops in feet to 

guarantee performance. The luminescent 

hour markers and hands 

make for easy reading against the 

bold orange dial. The watch, water 

resistant to 1,220 metres, is 

equipped with a helium valve at 

9 o’clock. Just 200 pieces of this 

dive watch are being built, each 

with a stainless steel folding clasp 

on the steel bracelet and a diving 

suit extension system. 

The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay 

is inspired by a diving model that 

Hattori: It’s not only in movements 

that Credor brings new 

ideas. This year, we’re presenting a 

watch that revives the lost art of 

Pique on its dial and it’s quite 

remarkable. 

BWDN: Seiko recently held Master 

Craftsman watchmaking classes 

about Grand Seiko in the U.S. Is 

Seiko planning to expand Grand 

Seiko’s American luxury market? 

Hattori: Definitely. The progress 

we are making with Grand Seiko 

in the USA is very pleasing. It is 

only two years since we started to 

market Grand Seiko internationally, 

and there are already many 

leading stores with positive results 

with the brand. 

BWDN: How does BASEL- 

WORLD affect Seiko’s business? 

Hattori: Each year, we host several 

hundred meetings with our retail 

partners here, and these meetings 

are fundamental to our business in 

every region. Here we launch our 

new international collection ever 

year, and it’s the most important 

date in our calendar. 

Interview by William G. Shuster ■ 

first appeared in 1954. It features a 

domed dial with vintage accents, a 

domed crystal, and offers a blend 

of form and function. The alluring 

41 mm stainless steel watch is 

water resistant to 200 metres. 

Luminescent hour markers on the 

dial ensure easy visibility. The burgundy 

colour of the unidirectional 

rotating bezel recalls the original 

models and is exclusive to Tudor. 

The Heritage Black Bay features a 

new folding clasp for added security 

and is delivered with a steel 

bracelet and a second black fabric 

strap, or with a black fabric strap 

and a second strap in aged leather. 

(rn) ■ 

diving model that first appeared in 1954. Doxa Sub 4000T Professional dives down to 

1,000 metres. 

PAGE 8

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Swiss made Ronda movement 

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PAGE 13 


Haute Couture horlogerie 

Today’s high-end designer watch brands display watchmaking expertise 

Creativity and vintage styling 

are the key words to use when 

describing the newest timepieces 

for women and men from highend 

designer brands. Whether 

feminine or masculine, the newest 

watches offer high-tech, highmech 

panache with an haute couture 

edge. While many of the 

brands still remain true to their 

runway offerings in terms of patterns, 

prints or colours, others 

have simply stepped watchmaking 

up a notch to where the brand 

almost stands on its own. 

Naturally, the design houses 

remain ever faithful to their vigilant 

female followers, with superbly 

designed and crafted timepieces. 

Chanel surprises and delights 

with its Première Flying Tourbillon 

watch. Crafted in a fully diamond-adorned 

case, the watch is 

created in celebration of the 25th 

anniversary of the first watch in 

this line − whose case shape was 

inspired by the octagonal geometry 

of the famed Chanel No. 5 

perfume bottle stopper, and of 

the Place Vendôme. 

The exceptional watch is the 

result of a close collaboration 

between Chanel and Swiss master 

watchmakers Renaud & Papi. The 

Swiss luxury brand Vulcain 

has a history of watchmaking 

achievement. It invented the first 

operational mechanical alarm 

wristwatch and its Cricket timepiece 

was long known as the 

‘Presidents’ Watch.’ CEO Bernard 

Fleury tells BWDN how 

the brand, located in LeLocle, 

Switzerland, is building on its 

heritage with new watches that 

incorporate innovation and tradition. 

BWDN: One of Vulcain’s historic 

achievements is its hand-wound 

Cricket movement. What’s happening 

now with the Cricket? 

Bernard Fleury: In the past 

decade, our team of engineers, 

watchmakers and designers have 

developed the legendary Cricket 

movement into 6 different, highquality 

versions, from a traditional 

manual winding calibre to 

the self-winding version. Today, 

Vulcain is recognized as having 

the best and most sophisticated 

mechanical alarm movement. 

BWDN: Two new Vulcain watches 

in 2012 are the Heritage Presidents’ 

Watch and 50s Presidents’ 

Watch. Can you share some 

details? 

Fendi Chameleon. Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon. 

The Couture brands display technical prowess. 

tourbillon escapement, visible 

at 6 o’clock, is decorated with 

Chanel’s Camellia floral motif. 

The flying Tourbillon makes one 

rotation per minute, with the petals 

indicating the seconds. 

The Camellia Flying Tourbillon 

Calibre is mounted on a custom-designed 

rectangular bottom 

plate. The dial of the watch is 

black ceramic and the case, bezel 

and crown are entirely set with 

baguette-cut or round-cut diamonds 

or precious gemstones − 

totaling 7.7 carats. Just 20 pieces 

will be created. 

Versace also moves to the mastery 

of high art forms with its new 

High quality and sophistication 

Vulcain is expanding in key markets worldwide 

Bernard Fleury, CEO Vulcain. 

Fleury: Vulcain created the first 

genuinely-functional mechanical 

alarm movement in 1947, starting 

an unprecedented lineage. From 

then onwards, U.S. presidents, 

starting with Harry S. Truman, 

proudly wore the Vulcain Cricket 

alarm model, earning the brand 

the reputation as ‘The Watch for 

Presidents’. 

These new watches are inspired 

by a 1950s Vulcain model and 

meet the highest contemporary 

standards. The Heritage President’s 

Watch limited edition 

Mystique Collection, including 

the stunning Hibiscus and Flora 

watches with stunning enamel 

dials recalling the beauty and 

elegance of nature’s flowers in 

bright colours, interspersed with 

gold vines and leaves. Each watch 

is further bedecked with a diamond 

bezel and finished with a 

colour-coordinated strap. 

Similarly, Ferragamo unveils the 

shimmering Poème Limited-Edition 

series. These stunning round 

watches feature totally gem-set 

dials with intermittent diamonds 

on them and a diamond bezel 

for the ultimate romance that a 

poem can offer. 

and the 50s Presidents’ Watch 

each come in two-tone 18K rose 

gold and steel, or steel only. 

The Heritage Watch models are 

equipped with Vulcain’s proprietary 

Cricket calibre V-10, and 

the 50s Presidents’ models have 

Cricket V-11. Both, of course, 

feature the alarm function, Vulcain’s 

signature complication. 

BWND: Is Vulcain adding other 

new watches in 2012? 

Fleury: Yes, there are three new 

lines. There is a limited edition 

of the 50s Presidents’ Watch 

issued for Herbie Hancock, the 

famous jazz pianist. It comes 

in 18K rose gold or steel, with 

an amazing sunray blue dial. It 

uses Vulcain’s proprietary calibre 

Cricket V-11, with alarm. 

The second is the 50s Presidents’ 

Classic. It is an extra-flat version 

of the Presidents’ model, with 

a self-winding movement and 

available in 18K rose gold and in 

steel. The third collection is the 

50s Presidents’ Chronograph in 

a mono-pusher version, with an 

automatic movement and in 18K 

rose gold or in steel. 

BWDN: How do you expect for 

Vulcain’s business in 2012? 

Even Dior remains true to its 

high-diamond artistic prowess, 

unveiling new Dior VIII pieces 

in black ceramic with ceramic 

pyramids and beautiful diamond 

motifs on the dials. The oscillating 

weight of the automatic 

movement is black lacquered, 

and visible through its transparent 

sapphire caseback. Several 

sizes and renditions − summing 

up to 16 models − are being 

unveiled of this black beauty. 

From Fendi comes the Chameleon, 

characterized by the bold 

use of colour and the ingenious 

FF Fendi cut-out logo on the 

elongated case. (rn) ■ 

Fleury: We’re expecting an 

expansion of our brand development 

in 2012, as we inject more 

investments into our distribution 

network in key markets in Asia, 

the U.S.A. and Europe. 

BWDN: How many watches does 

Vulcain produce annually? 

Fleury: Right now, we produce 

less than 5,000 watches annually. 

Our in-house movements are produced 

with ‘Exactomatic’ construction 

− a Vulcain exclusive 

− and every watch which leaves 

our factory has gone through a 

series of quality controls, including 

careful checking of timing, 

amplitude, and water-resistance. 

BWDN: Where are Vulcain’s best 

opportunities in 2012? 

Fleury: We have a clear strategy to 

focus on major key markets. They 

are, first, North America, followed 

by Switzerland, France, and Germany 

in Europe; then, North Asia 

(Hong Kong, China, Taiwan); 

and next, South Asia (Singapore, 

Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand) 

These are the fastest growing markets 

of the Swiss watch industry 

and for Vulcain, too. 


WATCHES 


Michel Herbelin’s Newport 

Yacht Club combines sets sail in a 

43.5 mm stainless steel case with a 

water resistance of 100 metres. The 

new timepiece is driven by a Swiss 

automatic movement. It features a 

sapphire crystal and a screwed-in 

see-through caseback. (sz) 1.1, B11 

Michel Herbelin Newport. 

The Rado True Thinline Automatic 

Skeleton, with a 7.8 mm profile, is the 

world’s thinnest ceramic watch. The 

heart of the watch is visible through 

an openworked dial that exposes 

the ETA 2892-S2 calibre movement. 

The white rubber strap is totally integrated 

into the ceramic case, which 

ensures a comfortable fit. Striking 

blue hour and minute hands provide 

the perfect contrast against the white 

and grey tones of the bezel, movement 

and markings. The steel crown 

is set with a ceramic cabochon. (cb) 

1.0, C01 

Rado True Thinline. 

Timex launches the new T-Series 

Racing Fly-Back Chronograph driven 

by its own Intelligent Quarz technology. 

Besides the stop function measuring 

the 1/5 second, the movement 

features a second time zone and a 

date indication. The new timepiece is 

clad in a 43 mm stainless steel/PVD 

or stainless steel/titanium case water 

resistant to 10 atm or 100 metres. 

The strap options include a black or a 

sandy leather version. (sz) 1.1, D47 

T-Series Racing Fly-Back Chronograph.

PAGE 15 


Tendence strong in Asia 

Gabriele Ghielmini talks about new markets and products 

Immediately identifiable thanks 

to their depth and three-dimensional 

dials, the Tendence Watch 

brand, based in Lugano, Switzerland, 

offers contemporary 

style and individual expression. 

Although the watches have only 

been available for five years, 

they are already distributed 

across the globe. Tendence CEO 

Gabriele Ghielmini talks about 

company strategies and new 

products. 

BWDN: Founded in 2007, Tendence 

is still a young brand. What 

is its profile? 

Gabriele Ghielmini: Tendence is 

a very dynamic brand and while 

it is still a young brand, within 

the company’s structure we have 

a wealth of experience, which 

goes hand in hand with the continuous 

growth and development 

of Tendence. We serve the worldwide 

markets from our head office 

in Lugano, Switzerland, and the 

Tendence Asia branch in Hong 

Kong, where the most innovative 

technologies are in place, 

from the R&D to the logistic 

operations, now complete with a 

pioneering new automated serial 

number management and tracking 

system. We are continuously 

looking for ways to improve, 

develop and grow our business. 

Notably, the Tendence Asia 

branch is expanding every month 

to meet the demand of the rapidly 

evolving Asian markets. 

Savoy, launched at BASEL- 

WORLD 2011 by Pascal Savoy, 

is already known for its modern, 

edgy styles. The brand introduces 

its new seasonal range this year, 

including new rubber strap colours, 

complete metal bracelets 

and leather or enamel inserts. 

Each collection is imbued with 

signature details, including mother-of-pearl 

dials, sapphire crystals, 

diamond bezels and enamel 

embellished inserts. The watches 

are unisex, and available in three 

Tendence CEO Gabriele Ghielmini. 

Savoy’s seasonal collection 

BWDN: How do Tendence 

watches distinguish from other 

brands? 

Ghielmini: Tendence watches are 

audacious and immediately recognisable. 

Many people refer to 

Tendence as the brand which 

doesn’t follow the trends, but 

creates them. I believe this ability 

is fuelled by our core philosophy, 

which emphasises the 

importance of individuality and 

freedom of expression. After all, 

‘style’ should be exactly how the 

person wearing the watch wishes 

to interpret it. 

sizes: standard 45 mm and allnew 

41 mm and 35 mm versions. 

Each Savoy watch strap or bracelet 

is equipped with an oversized 

metal insert that is embedded as a 

long single link. The rubber strap 

is uniquely molded to keep the 

natural constant curve of the wrist 

as well as allowing the fixation of 

the inserts. All feature Swiss-made 

ETA or Ronda movements, and 

are water resistant to 100 metres. 

Every watch comes with a twoyear 

international warranty and is 

packaged in a wooden box with 

a matching Savoy writing instrument 

and business card holder. 

(cb) ■ 1.1, D51 

The Savoy Icon collection is available 

in several styles, colours and finish options, 

all with Swiss quartz movements. 

BWDN: What role does the 

design play in Tendence watches? 

Ghielmini: The designs are an 

integral part of Tendence watches 

and essentially the DNA of the 

brand. Creativity is at the heart 

of Tendence and this is reflected 

in everything we do. Tendence 

watches are ‘larger than life’ − 

not only because of the oversized 

style, but also due to the extraordinary, 

impressive design, which 

is sometimes even described as 

irreverent. 

Every design has a unique, contemporary, 

innovative aesthetic 

and the three-dimensional numbers 

are synonymous with Tendence. 

BWDN: How was 2011 and what 

do you expect for 2012? 

Ghielmini: 2011 was a challenging, 

yet rewarding year. Consolidation 

was an important factor 

in some markets, whilst we had 

significant growth in Asia. 2011 

saw the start of a big operation 

in China, a key market opening 

for us, with openings of the first 

Tendence mono-brand boutiques 

in China’s largest cities and most 

prestigious locations, with some 

of China’s most renowned celebrities 

endorsing Tendence. 

Furthermore, internally, we made 

considerable investments to 

strengthen our sales and logistics 

structures, which are imperative 

for us to continue to advance 

successfully towards our long 

term goals and objectives. Overall, 

the way in which Tendence 

innovates and designs is central 

to our success, and this year 

we are launching four impressive 

new collections plus various line 

extensions which I’m sure are 

going to be very well received. 

In 2012 we expect to see major 

growth in China where there is 

huge potential for Tendence as 

well as across Asia where more 

and more Tendence mono-brand 

boutiques will be opening. 

Interview by Sabine Zwettler ■ 

The Jura line of skeleton watches includes both contemporary and traditional models. 

The art of skeleton 

Rotary is launching its first 

proprietary movement at 

BASELWOLRD, the Jura Cal. 

R.1000/21. It will be featured in 

a new collection of skeleton automatic 

watches in the brand’s Les 

Originales collection. The Jura 

range of 20 new skeleton models 

includes both contempory and 

traditional elements, as well as 

open dials that reveal part or all 

of the movement. They also have 

open casebacks. Styles among the 

new models range from versions 

with black or gunmetal ion-plated 

cases, and there are three very distinctive 

pocket watches. Some of 

the traditional models will have a 

full skeleton dial that offers clear 

visibility of the branded automatic 

calibre, which has a bespoke 

winged wheel rotor design. The 

new calibre is protected by the 

company’s lifetime movement 

guarantee. Rotary is a fourth-generation 

family owned Swiss brand 

that is sold in over 40 countries. 

The new collection can be viewed 

at the Dreyfuss Group stand at 

BASELWORLD. (cb) ■ 1.1, A19 

WATCHES 


Following the design of the Folli 

Follie Heart4Heart necklace, the 

Heart4Heart watch series features 

four sparkling crystal hearts shaped 

together in the form of a 

lucky clover on the dial. 

The new timepiece 

is available in rose 

gold plated and 

stainless steel 

and driven by a 

Myota quartz 

m o v e m e n t . 

The Heart- 

4Heart watch 

series comes in 

dazzling combinations 

of white and 

black silky straps. (sz) 

1.1, B31 

Folli Follie Heart4Heart watch series. 

Flagship, the star collection from 

Swiss Military – Hanowa, has 

been subtly reworked and a chronograph 

added to the line-up. Classically 

styled, with a choice of dial, bezel – in 

red, blue, white or black – and on a 

steel bracelet or leather strap, the 

brand has paid particular attention 

to the finish and decoration, as well 

as the immediately legible dial, which 

has luminescent hands and hour 

markers. The 42 mm stainless steel 

316 L case, which is water resistant 

to 100 metres, houses a quartz 

movement indicating the date at the 

6 o’clock position. (sz) 1.1, D75 

The Flagship chrono stays true to the 

brand’s credo of sport watches. 

Among the three new series and nine 

new watches introduced this year by 

Jorg Gray Timepieces is the 

5100-33. It is a multi-function watch, 

with a 24-hour subdial at 6 o’clock 

and an overlapping date subdial at 

3 o’clock. The 44mm case is rose gold 

plated over stainless steel. The dial 

is white, tone-on-tone, with a subtle 

stripe and rose gold markers. The 

skeletonized hands are applied with 

luminous tips. The strap 

is white silicone. It is 

water resistant to 

100 metres. (cb) 

2.0, C62 

The Jorg Gray 

5100-33 is a 

multi-function 

timepiece with 

overlapping 

24-hour and 

date subdials.

PAGE 17 


Building on change 

Fast-growing Ice-Watch aims for new heights 

Belgian watch brand Ice-Watch is 

only five years old, but already in 

10,000 points of sale in 105 countries. 

Jean-Pierre Lutgen, founder, 

tells BWDN how it became a 

major player in the global watch 

market, talks about upgrades in 

new watches and service, and 

a major goal he hopes to reach 

soon. 

BWDN: Mr. Lutgen, why did you 

create Ice-Watch? What is the 

story behind? 

Jean-Pierre Lutgen: My company 

in Belgium made promotional 

items for companies, including 

watches. But it was my dream to 

create my own brand, which I did 

in 2006. I sold the promotional 

part of my business to focus only 

on Ice-Watch. 

The brand is built on two pillars: 

One is change − I mean, peoples’ 

frequent changing preferences 

today − and the other is a strong 

identity. For us, that’s colour, reenforced 

by our colourful transparent 

silicon watch boxes. 

With Ice-Watch, people have a 

variety of colourful watches to 

buy and change to, depending on 

their mood and activity, whenever 

they want. We have 20 different 

collections, with 400 watches 

in a broad range of colours and 

combinations, all at accessible 

prices (59 to 99 euros). 

BWDN: Why do you call it ‘Ice- 

Watch’? 

Lutgen: The word ‘ice’ represents 

purity and transparency for us. 

Also, our first watches were transparent. 

BWDN: Who is your target audience? 

Lutgen: Trendy people of any age, 

culture or country. We don’t make 

watches for a specific audience; we 

make them for the large public. 

BWDN: Ice-Watch is a Belgian 

brand. Is it made there? 

Lutgen: No, our headquarters and 

designers are in Belgium − and 

I provide much input to make a 

nice design even nicer. We select 

all materials, bands and parts, 

and we work with four assembly 

operations in Shenzhen, China. 

BWDN: Tells us something about 

the 12 new collections you’re 

debuting at BASELWORLD. 

Lutgen: Quality is important to 

us. So, all the new watches are 

water-resistant to 10 atm or 330 

Sandoz pulls out all the stops 

New products on display at BASELWORLD 

Since the seventeenth century, 

Sandoz has been a key player in 

the development and perfection 

of Swiss watch mechanisms. The 

brand has created some exceptional 

pieces over the years, such 

as the ‘Oignon’ watch, now on 

permanent display at the La- 

Chaux-de-Fonds clock museum. 

The brand has created numerous 

patents and has obtained several 

medals in a number of international 

exhibitions. 

The Sandoz family’s first manufacture, 

a clock factory, was 

founded in 1870, and the company 

was among the earliest brands 

to pioneer wristwatch production 

capabilities when these timepiec- 

Sandoz Caractère Collection. 

Jean-Pierre Lutgen, founder of Ice-Watch. 

es became fashionable in the 

twentieth century. 

In 2000, Sandoz was acquired by 

Grupo Munreco, a leading company 

in the Spanish watch industry 

with more than 30 years of 

experience, which officially presented 

the brand on the Spanish 

market. Continuing the tradition 

of Sandoz’s master watchmakers, 

Grupo Munreco still achieves a 

balance between the technical 

excellence of traditional Swiss 

watchmaking and highly avantgarde 

designs, aiming at the most 

commercial part of the Swiss 

watch segment by offering exceptional 

value for money in all the 

Sandoz collections. 

The quartz movements in each 

Sandoz watch are certified by the 

Swiss Made quality seal, and each 

watch undergoes thorough quality 

controls, ensuring the utmost 

precision and reliability. In addition, 

traditional mechanical 

mechanisms are used in several 

of its most representative collections. 

Sandoz watches are painstakingly 

finished with quality 

features such as the scratch-proof 

sapphire crystal that protects the 

faces, high-quality, meticulously 

Sandoz has a long tradition in the world of Swiss watchmaking. 

designed bracelets and straps, 

as well as distinguished, elegant 

touches, such as mother-of-pearl 

dials and diamonds, which are 

used in some women’s models. 

This attention to quality and 

design is reflected in the comprehensive, 

distinctive, timeless 

Sandoz watch collections that are 

launched every year at BASEL- 

WORLD. They are designed to 

stand the test of time, and to 

stand as real emblems for the 

brand. Collections include the 

iconic, avant-garde Caractère 

Collection with its elegant, sports 

style men’s and ladies’ watches, 

the Légendaire collection, with a 

feet, have screwback cases and 

silicon-based polyamide bands. 

We’re also working with our distributors 

worldwide to improve 

in-store presentations, and 

there’s an important upgrade this 

year in customer service, which 

is always very important to us, 

called ‘Repair Tracker’. 

BWDN: What is it? 

Lutgen: When an Ice-Watch owner 

takes the watch back to the 

store for repair or servicing by us, 

they get a log-in and password to 

track its progress on our website. 

They also get an e-mail when it’s 

ready to be picked up. No other 

watch brand we know does this. 

BWDN: What are your major 

goals for 2012 and 2013? 

Lutgen: One major goal is to 

improve our U.S. market, and 

also in Scandinavia, Brazil, Russia, 

India and China. Another is 

to get over 1 million Facebook 

fan and we want to reach our 

five-year total sales goal of 10 

million watches since 2007. It was 

six million in 2011, when we sold 

4.2 million watches. When we 

reach it, we will celebrate − and 

then do more in 2013. 


sophisticated retro air, the masculine, 

elegant, classic Portobello 

Collection and the more recent, 

glamorous ceramic collection for 

women, the Chic Collection. 

Sandoz presents a new line of 

watches with square cases in the 

Caractère family − worn by men 

and women of character. They 

are models with a lot of personality 

− with the ‘character’ that 

gives the collection its name, a 

line that is recognizable from its 

signature large square cases. The 

new models feature black and 

white rubber straps which make 

these watches especially comfortable 

to wear. (cb) ■ 1.1, C13 

WATCHES 


Classical watches with the indication 

of the day and the date are in 

clear demand at this year’s show. 

Swiss brand Roamer introduces a 

casual yet chic line showing off these 

indications. The Mercury debuts in a 

41 mm stainless steel or bicolour case, 

which is watertight to 100 metres. 

It features an ETA 2824 automatic 

movement and is available in different 

style options. (sz) 1.1, D75 

Mercury from Roamer. 

From Skagen Designs the focus is 

decidedly feminine; the women’s line 

of fashionable Stretch Mesh series 

unveils three completely new styles 

with dainty demi-square cases in 

silver, gold and charcoal tones bordered 

by glittering Swarovski Elements 

crystals, a mirrored border and 

sunray brushed dials with a precise 

Japanese quartz movement within. 

To add supreme comfort to fashion, 

Skagen Designs have incorporated 

the company’s immensely popular 

stretch mesh band to elegantly wrap 

around the wrist without the need for 

clasps or adjustment. (nh) 5.0, C11 

Skagen Design’s Stretch Mesh series. 

The Wenger Terragraph is designed 

to capture the neoclassical spirit of 

beauty, functionality and precision. For 

sport or for every day, the Terragraph 

is available in a variety of dial colours. 

The Terragraph is a full collection, 

with seven men’s versions and five 

women’s versions. The strap comes 

in textures and colours ranging from 

genuine leather to silver-toned steel. 

Hands and hour markers are treated 

with a luminescent coating. The movement 

is quartz. (cb) 1.1, E61 

Wenger Terragraph.

PALACE PAGE 18 


Hydraulic timekeeping 

Mechanical watch displays the time using liquids and a miniaturized hydraulic system 

The first model launched by the 

brand HYT is called H1, and it 

literally displays the hours using 

the displacement of two liquids, 

one coloured and one transparent, 

contained within a micro 

tube 1.6 mm in diameter. Even if 

this is not the first time that a 

watch company has placed fluid 

inside of a calibre − Concord’s 

C1 Quantum Gravity disposed of 

a power reserve indicated by liquid 

level − it has never been used 

to mark the passing hours. When 

Concord launched that piece 

Vincent Perriard, CEO of HYT. 

Extreme watchmaking 

Christophe Claret takes on magnetism and the dual-wing-style movement 

Christophe Claret’s critically 

acclaimed eponymous brand 

continues to gain traction among 

connoisseurs and collectors 

thanks to the fill of incredibly 

imaginative mechanics emerging 

since 2009. 

The big announcement here at 

BASELWORLD is the advent of 

the X-TREM-1 timepiece. Naturally, 

it is no less complicated than 

you would expect from this master 

of unusual complications. The 

X-TREM-1 boasts a flying tourbillon 

inclined at a 30-degree angle 

Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1 has a 

magnetically driven time display. 

back in 2008, it was headed up by 

Vincent Perriard. 

Perriard is also involved in HYT 

and is actually CEO of the brand. 

The H1, though, is the fruit of an 

extreme amount of work completed 

in particular by Lucien Vouillamoz, 

inventor of the technology, 

and a clever team that includes 

Bruno Moutarlier, in charge of 

production, and Sébastien Perret, 

the designer. The technology comprises 

two distinct parts: the fluid 

system developed from scratch 

and the mechanical movement 

made possible by a double ceramic 

bearing and cone-shaped pinion 

transmission mounted on a beadblasted 

‘three-dimensional’ titanium 

base plate. The hours and 

minutes are displayed to the left 

and right of where the dial would 

generally be by means of a linear 

retrograde display system that is 

radically different from existing 

systems and ever-so-slightly reminiscent 

of the Dual Tow model 

from 2009 − except for a decisive 

detail. Two tiny hollow steel 

spheres 4 mm in diameter isolated 

within 23 mm sapphire crystal 

tubes to the left and right of the 

numerical displays ‘magically’ 

move with no seeming mechanical 

connection to the movement. 

Indeed, their motion is created by 

the force of magnetic fields. Under 

normal circumstances these would 

be exceedingly harmful to a 

mechanical movement, but here 

are aided by surgical silk thread 

composed of natural proteinaceous 

silk fibres. All these elements 

combine to create a magic 

trick the likes of which is seldom 

seen in luxury watchmaking. 

The manually wound timepiece 

cleverly draws enough energy to 

sustain this activity for 50 hours, 

realized by Jean-François Mojon 

and his team at Chronode. 

“The challenge of this mechanical, 

manually winding calibre was to 

carry the integration of the fluidic 

module,” said Mojon. “The rest 

was known risk, but the geometry 

of the ensemble’s constraints lay 

in the transmission of energy.” 

State-of-the art technique 

The calibre, whose design is dominated 

by right angles and a futuristic 

look, has 65 hours of power 

reserve and beats at 28,800 vph. It 

retains all the characteristics of an 

haute de gamme movement in 

terms of decorated components 

and bevels. 

This premier ensemble by HYT 

primarily concentrates on the 

innovative aspect of the calibre. 

Composed of a capillary − a glass 

micro tube for whose manufacture 

a machine was specially developed 

− and two pistons similar to a 

blacksmith’s bellows, it allows two 

incongruous liquids to circulate in 

one direction and then the other. 

The two liquids are never allowed 

to mix. One of them, coloured by 

a fluorescent, comprises a water 

and alcohol solution to avoid gelling. 

The other, which is transparent, 

contains an oily mixture. The 

supplied by two spring barrels. 

Each barrel is assigned a separate 

function: one of them supplies 

energy to the tourbillon (and 

thus the escapement) while the 

other supplies energy to the time 

display. The latter has its own little 

escapement, which takes its 

cue from the main escapement 

via a cam to ensure extreme accuracy. 

The two spring barrels are 

designed without lids and are visible 

through the sapphire crystal 

on the front of the watch. This 

fact has them acting somewhat 

like power reserve indications. 

Horological excellence 

The rectangular case has what the 

brand calls a ‘curvex’ profile, 

meaning it is domed, which is 

eminently visible from the side. 

Water-resistant to 30 m (no mean 

feat for such a complicated timepiece), 

the case measures 40.8 x 

56.8 x 15 mm. It is crafted mainly 

in lightweight grade 5 titanium 

and comes in three variations: 

polished white gold and beadblasted 

black PVD-coated titanium; 

polished rose gold and beadblasted 

black PVD-coated titanium; 

and platinum with beadblasted 

black PVD-coated titani- 

The liquids encircling the ‘dial’ show 

the hour: here it is 10:12. 

contact zone between the two liquids 

is called the ‘meniscus’, which 

is grounded in the physics principle 

of superficial tension. In order 

to ensure that one fluid does not 

penetrate the other, the regularity 

of the displacement must remain 

perfect under every circumstance. 

“The principal factor was the stability 

of the fluids, particularly 

with regard to temperature level 

and displacement of the meniscus,” 

explained Vouillamoz, an 

engineer by training. Two pistons 

work alternately to circulate the 

Christophe Claret has brought new dimensions to modern horology. 

um. Each version is available in a 

strictly limited edition of eight 

pieces. 

Winding and setting the time is 

done by ‘bows’ that lift out of 

the case back, which means that 

there is no crown to disrupt the 

The pistons and bellows are 

eminently visible from the back. 

liquids within the capillary. Connected 

mechanically to the calibre, 

one injects its contents while 

the other absorbs them from the 

micro tube and vice versa. This 

function is made possible thanks 

to a telescopic piston placed within 

the interior of each bellow. 

The young brand has given itself 

the best means to get going commercially: 

an aggressively positioned 

price and a hand-picked 

sales network. The H1 will be sold 

for 39,000 Swiss francs excluding 

taxes. (ed) ■ Palace P05 

intriguing design of the watch. 

An interesting and practical 

detail is the Super-LumiNova 

placed along the sides of the case 

to enable the wearer to read the 

time in the dark. (ed) ■ Palace 

P05

Hall 2.2 BootH a92 

300 YEaRS oF GERMaN lUXURY

motored by Italian passion 

QUATTRO VALVOLE 44 CHRONOGRAPH 

The unique wristwatch inspired by speed and technology. 

Italian design. Swiss made. 

www.meccanicheveloci.com 

MARCH 8_15, 2012 

Hall 1.1_Booth D71

TRENDS PAGE 22 


Brands for the world 

The Pranda Group is conquering global markets with its lifestyle brands 

Lifestyle brands are becoming 

ever more important across the 

world. BWDN spoke with Gregor 

Kroll, managing director of 

the German-Thai company 

Pranda & Kroll, a specialist in 

fashionable silver jewellery. 

BWDN: What are the developments 

in the lifestyle brands 

Baldessarini, caï and Merii? 

Gregor Kroll: We were able to virtually 

double the turnover of the 

brands in the last year and we foresee 

substantial increases in turnover 

for 2012. The brands have 

strong representation in Europe, 

Russia and the Middle East. In 

Switzerland, we will introduce caï 

across the country in April along 

with the jewellery chain Christ. We 

work with a very strong distribution 

partner in Russia and are 

expecting to see additional growth 

of the Baldessarini brand in 2012. 

Our partners in Dubai will also 

open three caï shops in 2012. Further 

caï shops are also in the plan- 

Gregor Kroll, managing director of Pranda & Kroll. 

ning stages in addition to the 

opening of Merii shops. 

This month we will be opening a 

Baldessarini mono-brand shop in 

the Marina Mall in Dubai. We are 

A love of life 

This season, glamorous black and white contrasts show off their sparkling side 

1) 

4) 

6) 

2) 

5) 

7) 

seeing the greatest dynamic on 

this market at present. 

BWDN: Do you have any other 

sales channels? 

1) Cristofoli | 2) La Reina | 3) Viventy | 4) A Cuckoo Moment | 5) Facet | 6) Dior | 7) Saint Honoré | 8) Anja Gockel | 9) Brumani 

3) 

8) 

Kroll: Yes, the in-flight business 

is another excellent market. We 

have advertised a Baldessarini 

watch and a watch strap on the 

cover of the Lufthansa in-flight 

magazine and will offer the products 

as part of the on-board sales 

on Lufthansa flights until summer. 

We have been able to secure 

the Swiss airline for our Merii 

brand. Another partner is Etihad 

Airways based in Abu-Dhabi 

which offers a Baldessarini watch 

and strap as part of its on-board 

sales. 

BWDN: The markets of the Far 

East in particular are booming. 

Are your brands also represented 

there? 

Kroll: The expansion is going very 

well in the Asian Pacific region via 

our head office in Bangkok. We 

are on the verge of signing several 

contracts for the brand distribution 

in the Far East. There is a 

significant trend towards brand 

jewellery in this region. 

Back to the basics: nothing guarantees 

a strong look better than a 

combination of black and white. 

From elegant understatement to 

strong graphical accents, this classic 

contrast never loses its impact. 

Since this colour combination is 

limited to two contrasting shades, 

the diverse range of forms creates 

even more dramatic effects. In 

fashion stripes, checks and 

hound’s-tooth patterns are skilfully 

applied while abstract patterns 

add a modern twist to the elegant 

look. In jewellery, the colour 

scheme highlights the extensive 

craftsmanship of the manufacturers: 

black and white diamonds, 

Tahitian and South Sea cultured 

pearls, white gold and platinum 

are processed to create elaborate 

items of jewellery which exude 

timeless elegance and glamour. 

Intense black and 

shimmering white 

The label A Cuckoo Moment is 

making its debut at BASEL- 

WORLD this year and features 

pieces for those special moments 

in life. Bracelets and rings create a 

striking contrast with the graphically 

processed silver material 

which stands out against black 

rayskin. The opaque moonstone 

enhances the contrast between the 

black and white and the shiny and 

matt effects. Watches too are 

incorporating the classic black and 

white theme and feature lavishly 

Fashionable jewellery made of 925 sterling 

silver by caï. 

BWDN: Which markets would 

you like to conquer in the future 

and with which brands? 

Kroll: We will continue to 

expand our global distribution of 

the brands. The additional expansion 

of the Asian market as well 

as the Eastern European and 

Scandinavian markets is a priority. 

In general, we are striving to 

achieve this expansion with all of 

the brands. In 2012, we also want 

to support our existing partners 

and help them with their growth. 

Interview by Axel Henselder ■ 

decorated faces and cases as a 

highlight. Swiss manufacturer 

Saint Honoré is also in tune with 

the times, as demonstrated by the 

new edition of the Opéra watch 

model: the Opéra Black Eclair 

comes in a new and particularly 

seductive little black attire and 

looks simply stunning in its contrasting 

colours: the intense blackness 

of the case magnifies the 

watch finish to perfection. ‘Eclair’ 

is an exclusive innovation from 

Saint Honoré, a special technique 

which creates the unique, infinitely 

dazzling effect of the pavé 

diamonds. Pavé diamonds play a 

key role in the ever-popular black 

and white trend. Here the excellent 

goldsmithing abilities of manufacturers 

such as Facet, La Reina 

and Viventy are paired with the 

sparkling effects of the diamonds, 

creating a virtually endless range 

of options for incorporating this 

exquisite interplay of contrasts. 

(cete) ■ 

9)

JEWELLERY PAGE 24 


Happy Mickey necklace by Chopard. 

The famous miniature Mickey Mouse 

has crept into the workshop of jewellery 

manufacturer Chopard. A 

humorous collection of playfully elegant 

jewellery and watches has been 

created by merging Chopard with 

Walt Disney’s fictional characters. The 

original version of the famous Happy 

Diamonds range with its Happy 

Mickey is perfect for both Disney fans 

and retro vintage fashion enthusiasts. 

(ahe) 1.0, D07 

Exquisite Paraiba 

tourmaline 

necklace 

by Harry Winston. 

If you are looking for that special 

something to pick you right out of the 

blues, head for Harry Winston; 

with their gorgeous combination of 

an exquisite Paraïba tourmaline and 

diamond clusters, the signature of the 

‘king of diamonds’ lives on – and with 

that irresistible splash of colour, who 

can possibly resist? So no matter if 

the baubles are intended for spring, 

summer, fall or winter, Harry Winston 

is sure to make the lucky ladies feel 

like a million bucks. (nh) 1.1, A 03 

Ring Dolce Vita by Al Coro. 

With its new Dolce Vita range, the 

Italian jewellery manufacturer Al 

Coro appears even more exclusive 

than ever before. Diamonds flow into 

one another in their fine nuances 

of white and brown. The resultant 

soft pavé design resembles a sparkling 

surface of water, reflecting the 

evening rays of sunshine. A crystalclear 

smoky quartz is surrounded by 

this sea of diamonds with heart and 

star ornamentation. (ahe) 2.1, G86 

Germany’s oldest porcelain manufacturory 

is presenting for the 

second time at BASELWORLD 

and has moved to a new spot on 

First Avenue where it is exhibiting 

a brand new watch collection. 

And of course, the watch faces 

are made from porcelain. “We 

are presenting seven feminine 

watch models in Basel which all 

have the same basic form but 

differ in terms of their decoration,” 

says Dr. Christian Kurtzke, 

chairman of the Meissen management 

board. The watch faces 

are hand-painted and incorporate 

various typical Meissen designs 

with the colours being picked 

up in the leather straps. When 

it comes to the design of the 

watches, the traditional German 

company has again entrusted this 

task to Italian designer Ornella 

Pasquetti who is also responsible 

for the Meissen Joaillerie Collection. 

“One of the watch faces 

depicts a dragon − but not the 

great Ming dragon of 1746 or the 

classic court dragon. We adopt a 

playful approach to the dragon 

motif and have added dragon 

images to individual numerals,” 

explains Kurtzke. Famous motifs 

from the porcelain industry such 


It’s porcelain time 

The feminine timepieces by Meissen incorporate high craftsmanship 

as 1001 Nights and the floral 

‘forget-me-not’ theme have also 

been applied and are immediately 

recognisable as such to collectors 

across the world. 

And when it comes to collectors: 

a limited edition series of 300 

watches was developed to mark 

Blossoms all over: A model is wearing 

the brand new Royal Blossom Col- 

lection, which perfectly fits the ‘Forget 

me not’ watch with handpainted dials 

made of Meissen porcelain, 18 kt rose 

gold, with 0.52 ct white diamonds and a 

crocodile leather strap. 

Extravagant quest for perfection 

How Picchiotti conquers the high-end jewellery market 

VIPs in emerging countries are 

also turning their attention to 

Giuseppe Picchiotti’s to die for 

jewellery, the gem sets of stunning 

beauty and carats, set with 

elegance and infinite care. 

BWDN: How was 2011? 

Giuseppe Picchiotti: Ours is a 

true niche and we have excellent, 

established sources of procurement. 

Often consolidated relationships 

with suppliers mean 

they call us first to view gemstones 

unique in their genre. 

Spectacular matching pairs and 

threes of rubies, sapphires and 

diamonds, cut into extremely rare 

shapes, which we can then offer 

the customer in absolutely superb 

sets at a reasonable price, if you’ll 

allow me this expression. This 

may help to explain why even 

2011 was a good year for us. 

BWDN: You create masterpieces 

that only a few, lucky people can 

afford. Where in the world is 

your clientele located? 

Picchiotti: The United States have 

always been the home of VIP customers, 

but in recent years have 

lost some of their polish. There 

has been only a partial recovery 

in 2011. At this moment in time, 

high jewellery is also in demand 

Unique Art Collection. Earrings graced by a pair 

of Burma oval rubies encircled by diamonds. 

in Hong Kong and South East 

Asia. We’re proud to have admirers 

even in countries where the 

local goldsmithing is very competitive, 

and for our part we have 

high hopes for this year. 

BWDN: You mention the importance 

of having privileged access 

to gemstone supply. What other 

requisites are there for being successful 

in the luxury sector? 

Giuseppe Picchiotti. 

The Starfish Brooch. Set with round diamonds and dotted with pear-shaped rubies. 

The centrepiece is made up of 13 pear-shaped rubies set in a yellow gold 

diamond flower. 

the 300-year anniversary 

of the porcelain manufacturory. 

Here every 

watch face is unique and 

represents one of seven 

key years in the history, 

including the year it was 

founded and six other 

Picchiotti: Style, 

without a doubt. In 

our world, taste isn’t really 

influenced by trends and 

is exquisitely international, 

yet it still demands a certain 

degree of innovation, and consumers 

are not indifferent to an 

Italian touch that is perceived as 

an added value. It goes without 

saying that items must be produced 

only by skilled artisans. In 

anniversary years. The motifs 

reflect exceptional events or 

people who have influenced 

the history of the manufactory 

during these special 

years. The managing director 

is convinced that these 

items will be particularly 

sought-after among international 

collectors. 

Meissen has spent many years 

cooperating with Glashütte 

Original in the men’s watches 

sector and decorates watch faces 

for the company. Meissen is 

not planning to release a men’s 

watch range of its own, however, 

because men’s watches are 

largely defined by technology 

rather than decoration. “Our aim 

is to produce filigree, feminine 

jewellery watches,” says Kurtzke. 

He sees significant potential for 

growth in this sector over the 

next few years. (cete) ■ 2.2, A92 

our case we are able to reach a 

perfect standard of finish simply 

thanks to our 45 years of experience 

of doing business in the 

heart of the Valenza Po jewellery 

district. Our craft is an infinite 

exercise in style, and an extravagant 

quest for perfection. 

BWDN: You have a privileged 

position for your stand, on First 

Avenue. Do you think that ongoing 

restructuring will increase the 

prestige of jewellers at BASEL- 

WORLD? 

Picchiotti: It’s a great project and 

conceptually very ambitious: 

the organizers haven’t 

aimed to increase the surface 

area and the number 

of exhibitors, but to 

enhance prestige, 

elegance 

and image. 

We’ll see the 

results in a year’s 

time, but I’m sure 

that the show will 

further consolidate its world 

leadership and that jewellers, 

especially the smarter ones, will 

reap significant benefits, even for 

the image of high watchmaking, 

which is already stellar. 

Interview by Roberto Chilleri ■



Solid handmade chains by Schofer. 

The new handcrafted semi-solid 

chains from Schofer’s prestige 

range offer a high level of wearing 

comfort. Whether in classic polished 

750 gold or platinum with a silky 

smooth surface: only the most sophisticated 

materials are used and are 

exclusively and skilfully processed by 

hand at the Pforzheim site. (ahe) 

2.1, J01 

MyChoice rings by Palido. 

This year, New York and St. Tropez 

are featured at BASELWORLD at 

the stand of the label Palido Fine 

Jewels by S. Paukner. The prominent 

cities represent possible combinations 

for the MyChoice ring collection. 

It offers wearers a virtually limitless 

chance to indulge their passion for 

collecting and varying their jewellery. 

Solitaire rings plus pavé and 

diamond-set models can be added to 

simple rings in yellow, white and rose 

gold. The newly launched MyChoice 

ring configurator offers initial assistance 

over the internet. (ahe) 2.0, J24 

Eagle ring with obsidian stone. 

The new jewellery items from men’s 

fashion label Baldessarini, a 

brand of the Pranda Group, represent 

the eagle. The powerful elegance of 

this bird of prey stands for independence, 

determination and freedom. 

These attributes have been converted 

into powerful designs and forms by 

Baldessarini. One particular highlight 

is a ring which creates a striking 

setting for this king of the skies. The 

eagle motif is spot on with its widespread 

wings. The ring is made from 

925 sterling silver and the volcanic 

rock glass, obsidian. (cete) 2.0, G21 

BWDN spoke to Nathalie 

Guedj, CEO of Carrera y Carrera, 

about the market situation 

for fine jewellery and her plans 

for 2012. 

BWDN: Is the economic recovery 

in luxury goods also noticeable 

at Carrera y Carrera? 

Nathalie Guedj: Yes, actually we 

have enjoyed two consecutive 

excellent years with growth of 

over 20 percent. We are recovering 

from the large and deep 

crisis of 2009. All of the regions 

enjoyed a strong and healthy 

recovery, the strongest being 

Europe and Japan. 

BWDN: Which collections have 

been most successful in the past 

year? 

Guedj: Actually our best selling 

collections are more or less the 

same everywhere: the top three 

are an old collection called Circulos 

de Fuego which features 


Inspired by Spanish culture 

Carrera y Carrera presents the Dragon collection at BASELWORLD 

Pendant Danza made 

of yellow gold 

and diamonds. 

a dragon (and we expect this 

year to be very strong again for 

this line, being the ‘Year of the 

Dragon’), the Gardenias collection 

launched in 2009, inspired 

by the sensual flower emblem 

from Cuba, and Bambu, another 

Asian-inspired collection which 

features our sculpture savoirfaire. 

Of course, within each collection 

some items sell in larger 

form, or with longer earrings, 

depending on the style of the 

country and the customers’ taste, 

the top three remain the same, 

however. 

BWDN: To what extent have the 

high gold price and the rising 

diamond prices had an effect on 

the business of Carrera y Carrera? 

Guedj: Well, this is actually an 

important question. Of course 

we had to increase our prices 

strongly in 2011 and we still have 

to have another price increase as 

soon as possible. But, it is also 

true that customers are more 

aware than ever of the true value 

of gold, so in another way it 

helps us convincing the customers 

that buying jewellery is not 

a bad investment! Everything 

is possible, the most important 

thing is style, and if we design 

a nice collection, whatever the 

Nathalie Guedj, CEO of Carrera y Carrera. 

technique we use to produce 

it, if the end result is beautiful 

it does not matter. It is design 

and outstanding finishing which 

convince the customer that he is 

buying a true piece of luxury! 

BWDN: What new pieces are 

you going to present in Basel 

this year? 

Guedj: Well, as always we will 

be presenting a new collection. 

It is inspired by Spanish culture 

as well as history. And this year 

it is about art, life and passion 

for life. It is about what makes 

Adding sparkle to the face 

As we enter yet another era for ears, detachable earrings announce their presence 

Earrings, ear-motifs, ear-studs, 

jewellery for the ears; the names 

are multiple and the shapes and 

sizes even more so. As opposed 

to other jewellery categories − 

rings, necklaces and charms − 

that have been continuously 

popular for the last 4.000 years, 

earrings are bound to follow 

hairstyles. However, during the 

past twenty years, earrings have 

reigned supreme on the red carpet, 

being the signature choice 

of many an actress, since the earrings 

are sure to add a little more 

sparkle to a glamorous head shot. 

Pure aesthetics 

As such, earrings are purely worn 

for their aesthetics. They are of 

no practical use (as opposed to 

a signet ring, which was used 

to seal letters), nor 

are they weighted 

down by emotional 

ties (such 

as a wedding 

band); and as 

opposed to 

Gypsy earrings by de 

Grisogono. The earrings can be modified and 

worn with one, two or three rings. 

Swarovski crystal blue earrings – 

as stilettos or studs, the choice 

is up to the individual. 

necklaces having served as 

signs of dignity and office 

of old-times, the earring 

is a most frivolous jewellery 

category, solely 

worn to accentuate a 

woman’s beauty. As 

our attention is naturally centred 

on the face, earrings assume 

a most privileged place in the 

jewellery boxes of many females. 

And as any jewellery-infatuated 

woman may testify, there is also 

an almost sensual pleasure in 

the pair of dangling earrings, 

which follow the movement 

of the head. 

Girandole earrings accentuate 

both width and 

length (as usual seen 

with three pendant 

drops), while the pendeloque 

earrings are all 

about length (8 cm long earrings 

have been seen from time 

to time). In the 1930s the world 

of earrings was revolutionized 

with clip-on systems, so pierc- 

ing could be avoided if 

a woman so desired (and 

the weight of an earring 

could be equally distributed 

across the earlobe). 

With clips, the aesthetics 

of earrings become more 

centred and less dangling; 

rosettes and spirals were 

popular motifs, perhaps 

as a reaction after 

the Art Deco period’s 

accentuation of long vertical 

lines, where long stilettos had 

been de rigeur of the day. But 

the short hair-dos of the 1920s, 

‘a la garçonne’, made earrings 

the prime choice of jewellery for 

liberated women, dancing and 

partying out on the town, for the 

first time in decorative history. 

An era for ears 

On the jewellery agenda, the 

1930s were an era of multifunctional 

creations. Earrings could 

be bought with matching pendants, 

so that any woman could 

vary the decoration of her earrings, 

but strictly speaking this 

invention dates back to the 18th 

century. In the 1980s, earrings 

underwent a revival, comparable 

our life so full of emotion. It 

is the art that is the most universal 

in the world, that each 

culture, each civilization have 

celebrated: music. And of course 

it is one of the symbol of Spain: 

the classic Spanish guitar: ‘La 

Guitarra Latina’! We have played 

around the theme, and coming 

from music we got quickly to the 

dance, of course! So let’s say that 

this year we will sing and dance 

in Basel to give us strength and 

energy to achieve another excellent 

year! At Carrera y Carrera we 

do believe that art and jewellery 

must make us dream. 

BWDN: How do you assess the 

chances and expectations of Carrera 

y Carrera in 2012? 

Guedj: If we keep delivering the 

utmost quality in jewellery as we 

always have done, I believe there 

is a lot of growth potential for 

Carrera y Carrera. Our unique 

style, which makes us so different 

from any other jewellery you 

can find in the market, makes us 

very desirable. And even more 

so these days, where people are 

increasingly looking for products 

which express their own personality, 

and not only just a brand 

image. 

Interview by Axel Henselder ■ 

with the 1920s and 1930s. A possible 

explanation was the ‘coolness’ 

of earrings when compared 

to rings (which usually come 

with an emotional tie or obligation 

of some sort); perhaps the 

‘cool-factor’ appealed to the business 

women of the decade who 

‘dressed for success’. 

In accordance with the rest of 

the fashion scene these years, 

almost anything goes with earrings. 

And detachable earrings 

make for great value; wear the 

earring in its smallest looking 

version during the day − hook 

on a selection of pendants for 

evening-wear. When a woman 

has acquired the ear-studs part 

of the creations, the number of 

exchangeable pendants to accompany 

the rest is infinite, and so 

are the opportunities for her to 

increase her collection. (nh) ■ 

Winter Frost 

earrings by 

Ole Lynggaard, 

made of 18 karat 

white gold with 

242 brilliants.

Vanguard 

Water-resistant 30 meter, quartz movement, 

sapphire crystal with anti-refl ection coating, 

stainless steel, Swiss made visit us at Hall 1.1 / Booth D75

montres 

Watches 

AMBRE 1.1 A51 

CERRUTI 1881 1.1 A33 

CERTUS PARIS 1.1 A63 

CHRISTIAN LACROIX 1.1 A33 

COBRA 5.0 A31 

GO, GIRL ONLY 1.1 A63 

GROUPE GL 2.1 A62 

HECTOR H 1.1 A63 

JEAN MARCEL 1.1 A63 

KENZO 2.1 A62 

KORLOFF 2.2 B60 

LIP 1.1 A70 

MGH 1.1 A70 

MICHEL HERBELIN 1.1 B11 

NAVITEC 5.1 A17 

NINA RICCI 1.1 A33 

PARIS FRANCE MONTRES 5.1 A17 

PIERRE LANNIER 1.1 A61 

FRANCE 

H O R L O G E R I E , B I J O U T E R I E & J O A I L L E R I E 

Watches, Jewellery & High jewellery 

PRIMA CLASSE 1.1 A51 

ROCHET 2.0 C01 

SAINT HONORE PARIS 1.1 C11 

SMB 1.1 A63 

TED LAPIDUS 1.1 A33 

THIERRY MUGLER 1.1 A33 

THIRSTY WATCH 5.1 A17 

PHILIPPE TOURNAIRE 2.0 F50 

GROUPE TWC 1.1 A33 

XC 38 2.1 A62 

YEMA 1.1 A51 

YONGER & BRESSON 1.1 A51 

YONGER POUR ELLE 1.1 A51 

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE 1.1 A51 

ZUCCOLO ROCHET & C° 2.0 C01 

mouvements & composants 

Movements & components 

ALBA / TOUVA 3.U B30 

ISA FRANCE 5.0 A11 

NERVINCA / NERVINOX 3.U B30 

ROBUR 3.U B30 

TENA / TENAX 3.U B30 

TENA BUTTY 3.U B30 

VERLUX 3.U B10 

Bracelets pour montres 

Watch bracelets 

ZRC 2.0 C01 


« FRANCE » 

PRESS & INFORMATION 

HALL 1.2 - STAND B 03 

BUSINESS CENTER 

(CLOSE TO THE PRESS CENTER)

BiJouterie Joaillerie 

Jewellery, high jewellery 

ALAIN ROURE 2.1 J20 

AMBRE 1.1 A51 

BACCARAT 2.2 A01 

CERRUTI 1881 1.1 A33 

CHUT…JE T'AIME 2.1 J20 

COBRA 5.0 A31 

EMASUR 2.0 H43 

GARAUDE PARIS 3.1 K14 

GAY FRERES 2.1 B72 

GEORLAND 2.1 N51 

GL PARIS 2.1 A62 

GROUPE GL 2.1 A62 

ISABELLE LANGLOIS 2.0 H43 

KENZO 2.1 A62 

KIDOU 2.1 B72 

KORLOFF 2.2 B60 

LACOSTE 2.1 A62 

LALIQUE 2.2 H44 

MADEMOISELLE EST PRECIEUSE 2.1 M40 

MARCEL PONCET 3.1 G11 

MESSIKA DESIGN 2.1 B32 

NINA RICCI 2.1 A62 

PACOMA 2.1 M40 

PAUL & JOE 2.1 A62 

PIERRE LANNIER 1.1 A61 

PORCHET 3.0 E14 

PRIMA CLASSE 1.1 A51 

MARC PRINC 3.1 L02 

RICHDIAM 3.1 L02 

ROCHAS 1.1 A51 

ROCHET 2.0 C01 

ROURE 2.1 J20 

SAINT HONORE PARIS 1.1 C11 

SCHMITTGALL 2.1 M40 

TED LAPIDUS 1.1 A33 

THIERRY MUGLER 1.1 A33 

GROUPE TWC 1.1 A33 

WASKOLL 2.2 C80 

XC 38 2.1 A62 

YONGER & BRESSON 1.1 A51 


pierres et perles 

Gems & pearls 

ALAIN BOITE 3.1 H11 

GARAUDE PARIS 3.1 K14 

MARCEL PONCET 3.1 G11 

PIAT 3.1 C31 

PORCHET 3.0 E14 

MARC PRINC 3.1 L02 

SCHMITTGALL 2.1 M40 

Joaillerie de France 

Hall 2.0 – stand F50 

AXIOME 

BELLON 1907 

BELLON CREATEUR 

CREATIONS ANDRE BENITAH 

BERMUDES 

CAPUCINES 

CRISTOFOL PARIS 

JOIA 

LOUIS ELYSEE 

MARCHAK 

MATHON PARIS 

MIMETUM 

NOUVEAU STYLE 

OTELINA 

PARIS KOLLECTION 

SFM JOAILLERIE 

PHILIPPE TOURNAIRE 

UMANE PARIS 

Conception/Réalisation : Guillaume Léonardy - Crédit photo : Rodrigue Pidéry



Philippe Tournaire likes to call 

himself a ‘jewellery builder’ and is 

renowned for his architectural rings. At 

BASELWORLD 2012, Philippe Tournaire 

is unveiling his version of the 

Eiffel Tower in the form of the ‘French 

Kiss’ solitaire ring. “Having always 

been fascinated by the Eiffel Tower, 

the lady of iron, a great, powerful and 

proud lady, I decided to return one 

day to get a better look. I was overcome 

with the desire to place precious 

stones between its four square 

corners.” The Eiffel Tower is a place 

where lovers meet and so the idea of 

the ‘French Kiss’ ring was born. (kb) 

2.0, F 50 

‘French Kiss’ ring, available in 

yellow, rose or white gold. 

Vendôme is the name of the new 

collection from the traditional Italian 

company, Fope. These jewellery 

items are based on a pure yet 

elegant style. The collection includes 

chains, bracelets and rings in 750 

gold which impress with their unique 

Fope mechanism, based on gold 

springs. The design department spent 

many months devising this flexible 

and thin meshwork under the direction 

of Fope president Umberto Cazzola. 

Fope has already applied for 

a patent to cover this new groundbreaking 

technology. (ahe) 2.2, E71 

Fope bracelet. 

Vianna from Brasil offers sophisticated, 

contemporary, shiny and colourful 

jewellery. Four generations ago, 

the Vianna family took the first steps 

towards making jewellery. Now, with 

over 20 years of experience, Vianna 

Brasil has been growing, evolving and 

strengthening its brand worldwide. A 

talented team of designers continues 

to follow the brand’s DNA and draws 

its inspiration to create these innovative 

collections from the family’s heritage. 

It comprises the wide-ranging 

colours of Brazil. (cete) 2.1, L60 

Coloured 

gemstone 

earrings. 

Founded on principles of classic 

goldsmith techniques and pride 

in artisanship, the family-run 

jewellery company of Ole Lynggaard 

Copenhagen is the most 

prestigious high-end brand in 

Scandinavia today. Ole Lynggaard’s 

daughter, Charlotte Lynggaard, 

is the creative director 

and designer of the company, her 

husband Michel Normann the 

CCO, and Ole Lynggaard’s son, 

Søren Lynggaard, is the CEO of 

the company. We spoke with 

Søren Lynggaard. 

BWDN: When did you first know 

you would make the luxury jewellery 

business a part of your life? 

Søren Lynggaard: The jewellery 

business has been a part of my 

life since I was a child. My father 

established Ole Lynggaard 

Copenhagen in 1963, and I have 

helped building stands on fairs 

since I could lift a hammer. 

I joined the company full-time in 

1994. 

BWDN: Being the CEO of a luxury 

jewellery company, what is 

luxury to you? 

Lynggaard: Luxury is being able to 

buy something that you have 

dreamt of for some time as a gift 

or for yourself. 


When fairytales come true 

Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen appeals to poetry with handcrafted jewellery 

Happily for all lovers of rare 

golden Palawan South Sea pearls, 

two men − the French perliculture 

specialist and former pilot 

Jacques Branellec and the Filipino 

businessman Manuel Cojuangco 

− met in 1979 and founded 

the Jewelmer brand in Manila. 

Their vision: in the turquoise 

waters of the Palawan archipelago 

they planned to produce the most 

lustrous South Sea pearls in the 

Søren Lynggaard of Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen. 

BWDN: What is the profile of the 

consumer that the company is 

targeting today? 

Lynggaard: We are focusing at the 

top 2% of the quality-conscious 

young women of all ages. 

BWDN: What do you think consumers 

are looking for today? 

Lynggaard: I think women want 

jewellery with a distinguished 

design; jewellery that they themselves 

are able to customize for 

different occasions. We have tried 

to make jewellery with this aim 

since 1979, when my farther invented 

his clasp system for necklaces. 

BWDN: Where do you see the company 

heading in the next five years? 

Lynggaard: We have high ambitions: 

We want to be the preferred 

luxury brand for the quality-conscious 

customer, who is looking 

for Scandinavian jewellery design. 

We aim to sell our jewellery collection 

in the top 250 European 

stores, and we want a close and 

dedicated relationship with our 

sales partners. 

BWDN: In the company’s universe 

− what are you most proud of? 

Lynggaard: I love being a part of 

a family-run business and manufacturing 

beautiful products that I 

am extremely proud of; being a 

part of a fantastic team of dedicated 

colleagues who work hard 

on making the Ole Lynggaard 

Copenhagen dream come true. 

I am also very proud of the fact 

that we maintain a large production 

in Denmark produ 

cing Danish design in Denmark. 

This correlates with 

our values: Passion, joy of 

life, confidence, uniqueness, 

quality and efficiency. Our focus 

at BASELWORLD this year is a 

new series from my sister Charlotte 

Lynggaard. It is called ‘My 

Little World’, and it is a new 

charm concept that has proven a 

fantastic future from the sales in 

Scandinavia. 

An opulent homage to Monet 

Jewelmer presents finest South Sea pearls in a broad spectrum of collections 

Gaelle Branellec, creative director and produc- 

tion manager with her cousin Pierre Fallourd, 

Jewelmer’s assistant managing director. 

world. A task that they have more 

than mastered in the course of 

the past 33 years. The two visionaries 

have invested over three 

decades of experience, time, commitment 

and the know-how of 

numerous marine biologists. And 

with success: to date, the Philippine 

pearl brand is known worldwide 

not only for its pearl farming 

but also as a manufacturer of 

fine pearl jewellery. Jewelmer is 

the leading producer of exquisite 

and rare golden Palawan South 

Sea pearls and thereby the most 

prominent supplier in the world 

market. Co-operation with wellknown 

luxury goods companies 

and participation in international 

fairs have become par for the 

course. Above all, Jewelmer operates 

a whole string of fine pearl 

jewellery retail boutiques in the 

Philippines and has a trade and 

retail presence in Dubai, Hong 

Kong, Melbourne and Paris. 

At BASELWORLD 2012 the Philippine 

company is providing an 

overview of its current jewellery 

collection. The bandwidth here is 

broad: in some cases the golden 

shimmering pearls are combined 

with intricate diamond pavée or 

additional mother-of-pearl elements 

in the form of blossoms. In 

contrast, other lines are purist in 

style or draw inspiration from 

church windows or floral forms. 

Highlights brought to Basel by 

Jewelmer include the Giverny collection, 

created from the finest 

South Sea pearls, yellow gold and 

diamonds, which represents an 

opulent homage to the garden of 

impressionist Claude Monet. 

Finding perfect gems 

Only a fraction of the pearls 

farmed by Jewelmer are used for 

the company’s own jewellery, 

however. The majority of the 

marine beauties cultivated in the 

farms in southern Palawan are 

sold to international pearl jewellery 

manufacturers as raw materials, 

as assistant managing director 

Pierre Fallourd reports. These 

vary in size between 8 and 19 millimetres, 

with the greatest demand 

for pearls between 11 and 16 millimetres. 

As with all types of pearl 

farming, the cultivation of the 

golden Palawan South Sea pearl is 

dependent upon the ideal con- 

BWDN: Looking back, how would 

you say your approach towards 

business has evolved/matured? 

Lynggaard: The most important 

lesson I have learned from my 

farther is to be able to delegate 

responsibility to others. In my 

opinion keeping a focused strategy, 

staying faithful to the company 

values and having great visionary 

designers − in our case my 

sister Charlotte and my father Ole 

Lynggaard − is what is takes to 

become a success. 

Interview by Nina Hald ■ 

Lotus rings – two red and one white gold ring 

with diamonds, a moonstone and two shades 

of topaz. 

stellation of a number of different 

factors: clean water, a healthy 

marine ecosystem, ideal temperatures 

and the right mussel. “As 

the shape, size and colour of the 

pearls is determined mainly by 

nature, no two pearls are the 

same,” says Fallourd. “The task of 

finding perfect gems from thousands 

is a daunting one − an art 

and a science in itself.” (cete) ■ 

3.1, L46 

Gaelle Branellec shows a necklace from the 

Giverny collection.

Brand FaCT 

48% of Invicta customers own 10 or more 

Invicta timepieces. 

The Invicta Coalition Forces Trigger 

invictawatch.com 

HALL 1.1 . BOOTH E31

JEWELLERY | DESIGN PAGE 32 


Breuning silver design 

jewellery with golden accents. 

The Breuning Silver Design collection 

2012 offers affordable luxury. 

With its clear lines, it represents 

high quality processing and a unique 

material mix of red and yellow gold 

colour accents. (ahe) 2.1, M80 

Beautiful jewels for beautiful women 

by Brumani. 

What do the most beautiful women 

in the world have in common with 

Brazilian zest for life? They wear it 

around their necks, on their fingers or 

in their ears, in the form of luxurious 

creations from Brumani. Global 

stars such as Jennifer Lopez, Emily 

Blunt or Emma Bell like to adorn 

themselves with the elegant Jewellery 

from the family-run Brazilian company 

on special occasions. Technical 

precision, precious gems, know-how 

and tradition mix with spontaneity 

and the joy of Brazil’s love for modern 

life. (cete) 2.1, N61 

Feather pendant, Tahitian cultured pearls, 

diamonds on white gold by Schmittgall. 

The top of the range pearl specialist 

Schmittgall, based in Paris, is 

offering to set our minds free with 

its Cachemire and Plume collections. 

The Cachemire range 

is an expression of a graphical 

voyage through nature, 

inspired by the Art Nouveau. The 

Plume range embodies a sense of 

the light and delicate but is also 

a symbol of peace rituals. A charming 

message and a discovery of the 

world of Tahitian cultured pearls. (kb) 

2.1, M40 

Sparkling Starfish by Guess. 

Guess Jewellery exudes a passion 

for sunshine and sea in its new 

collection of radiant turquoise. The 

highlights of the collection include an 

opulent necklace with large sparkling 

starfish and a striking bracelet in the 

shape of a starfish set with endless 

crystals all over. (ahe) 2.2, A90 


Return to first loves 

Lalique transcribes the founder’s poetic designs into modern pieces 

After the cautious launch of 

its first jewellery collection in 

autumn 2011 based around the 

four elements, Lalique is making 

a strong appearance at BASEL- 

WORLD with its Odyssée du feu 

sacré haute joaillerie collection. 

The new strategy of the CEO of 

Lalique, Silvio Denz, is to focus 

the future of the brand on modern 

design while continuing to 

capitalise on the artistic heritage 

of the company founder, René 

Lalique. And this has been successfully 

achieved with the Odyssée 

du feu sacré collection which features 

symbolic figures from the 

master of the Art Nouveau. “An 

Odyssey based on bringing back 

to life the inspirations of Lalique, 

such as a phoenix, to create a collection 

which blends crystals and 

diamonds,” explains Anne Kazuro-Guionnet, 

marketing director 

for jewellery at Lalique. “It is a 

real renaissance because this haute 

joaillerie collection has enabled 

us to return to René Lalique’s 

first loves.” In fact, when René 

Lalique first started out in his 

career between 1882 and 1885, his 

innovative jewellery creations led 

him to acquire the name of ‘master 

of Art Nouveau jewellery design’. 

Stories told by coloured gemstones 

Tamara Comolli is celebrating an anniversary at BASELWORLD 2012 

Jewellery designer Tamara 

Comolli is based near the German 

Tegernsee lake and has 

conquered the world with her 

Color Stories. BWDN caught 

up with her to discuss her plans 

for 2012. 

BWDN: You have become one 

of the top ten brands in just 20 

years. How do you explain this 

success? 

Tamara Comolli: I’m really 

pleased about it because it was 

my dream, a vision, to create a 

long-lasting brand, by which I 

mean transforming my designs 

into classics! This requires consistency 

and a philosophy which 

the customer can understand. 

In my case, this involves a great 

deal of symbolism like the Color 

Stories I have created, of which 

there are now over 30! These 

are colour compositions of gemstones 

in which the designs have 

evolved further. The symbols are 

the droplets, my trademark, and 

the cones featuring a virtually 

endless selection of gemstones. 

BWDN: What is the core of the 

Tamara Comolli brand? 

Comolli: A high quality collection 

of 750 gold with designs 

which can be freely combined 

Lalique is making a strong appearance at BASELWORLD in hall 2.2, H44. 

He created jewellery landscapes 

and sculptures featuring a world of 

plants and animals, both aquatic 

and terrestrial. He drew his inspiration 

from nature and emulating 

Japanese artists who the western 

world gradually began to discover 

through various world exhibitions. 

René Lalique had the audacity to 

use the feminine body as a decorative 

element by presenting an 

allegory of a woman, half-female, 

half-animal and often mysterious 

− something which was very unusual 

at the time. He did not hesitate 

in using original techniques 

and materials such as horn, ivory, 

enamel and, of course, glass which 

Jewellery designer Tamara Comolli. 

and constantly reinvented. This 

enables customers to create 

unique jewellery outfits. Despite 

this, the brand is highly recognisable. 

BWDN: How are the key sales 

markets developing at present? 

Comolli: Our strongest markets 

are Europe and America. Things 

are beginning to develop well 

in Eastern Europe and we have 

plans to develop in Asia too. We 

are something of a jet-set brand 

which has already conquered the 

world. My jewellery is purchased 

by women across the globe. They 

was combined with gold and precious 

stones. 

“We asked the creative designer 

Quentin Obadia to retranscribe 

this poetry by René Lalique into 

our modern world in an ultracontemporary 

fashion. It is a matter 

of rewriting jewellery, without 

barriers, and overcoming the classic 

codes of the ‘jewellery from the 

Place Vendôme’,” Anne Kazuro- 

Guionnet continues. “Of course, 

we contacted the very best French 

and European studios to produce 

this collection and sought to apply 

new modern-day techniques.” 

The Odyssée du feu sacré unveils 

its identity as a guardian of fire 

are pieces to be talked about 

and therefore word-ofmouth 

plays a key role in 

the spread of the Tamara 

Comolli brand. We have 

customers across the 

world, including China. 

BWDN: What new items 

are you bringing with you 

to BASELWORLD 2012? 

Comolli: New items always 

take the form of one or more 

new Color Stories. This time, one 

of them is called Breeze − superfresh 

for the summer in delightful 

shades of blue. I am also 

taking Chestnut with me. These 

are warm, soft tones for autumn 

and winter. The Cruise story by 

contrast offers pure glamour. We 

are also using a new material in 

the Gypsy line for the first time: 

bronze/copper and silver in the 

form of youthful cult pendants. 

I wanted to secure a trendy young 

client base with these items. And 

of course there is a Celebration 

Design to mark our 20th anniversary. 

This had to include droplets, 

my trademark. The items 

are made from top quality solid 

750 gold and are available in 

a limited edition series of just 

220 items. A top quality version 

is also available. 

Vesta bracelet, white gold 

with diamond pavé and pink mother-of-pearl. 

in the form of a female phoenix. 

The necklace, the masterpiece of 

the collection, is composed of 

three detachable jewels with a 

brooch and pendant. The crystal 

torso is extended with feathers of 

sculpted mother-of-pearl while 

the mask and gold lacquered hair 

feature diamond pavé (2,672 diamonds). 

The necklace is priced at 

around 500,000 euros and also 

comes in the form of a bracelet 

(90,000 euros) or ring (from 

10,000 euros). The collection is 

composed of close to 90 items 

and features the unmistakeable 

Lalique dragonfly which comes 

either all in diamond or in a version 

with emerald, tsavorite and 

yellow sapphire. 

The phoenix bird creates the 

subtleness of fire using mandarin 

garnet and yellow and orange 

sapphires. As a symbol of the 

cycle of eternal life and creating 

hair which extends to infinity, the 

Ardente theme is inspired by the 

Lalique swirls and is decorated 

with pink sapphires, diamonds 

and amber-coloured crystal balls. 

(kb) ■ 2.2, H44 

Bracelet as light as 

a summer breeze. 

BWDN: What are your plans for 

2012? 

Comolli: I have two goals: on the 

one hand, I want to impress my 

jewellery partners with my key 

marketing concepts and on the 

other, I want to establish the basics 

of my collection − the cones and 

droplets. I also want to open more 

stores in holiday regions. These 

are places where the spirit of the 

brand is communicated to the 

optimum and where people are 

relaxed. Here I will present all of 

the Tamara Comolli world along 

with accessories, the finishing 

touch to all areas of the collection. 

One such location is Florida! 

Interview by Axel Henselder ■

TECHNIQUE PAGE 34 

Printing or lasering of individual 

models for wax casting or for 

mass production is being demonstrated 

by DWS, Envisiontec, 

Rapidshape and Solidscape. 

DWS machines are suitable for 

rapid prototyping as well as mass 

production. Up to 1,300 high 

resolution models can be produced. 

This represents the biggest 

machine available on the 

market in this sector, according 


Designers require durable material 

Product ranges for rapid prototyping have been extended this year 

Durable material was developed by Solidscape for filigran designs. 

to Samer Noujaim, sales area 

manager for the company. Sale 

of the machines is starting at 

BASELWORLD 2012, following 

presentation of the prototype last 

year. They are responding to substantial 

demand, says Noujaim. 

Many queries have already been 

received from all five continents. 

The company offers the machines 

in four different sizes. New resins 

are also being presented in 2012. 

Envisiontec is presenting the 

entire Perfactory 4 product range 

for the first time. The Mini XL 

was shown last year while the P4 

Standard and the P4 Standard 

XL are new. They come with bigger 

building envelopes than the 

small machine. The machines are 

delivered and installed with all 

of the relevant software to enable 

automatic support generation 

and perfect model production. 

Schultheiss also presented a product 

in this field for the first time 

in 2011 and founded Rapidshape 

as a separate company. A smaller 

version is now available for jewellers. 

The key benefit of this new 

version is the significantly faster 

process from the CAD design 

to the master model. “We are 

also exhibiting a new casting 

material which is significantly 

harder,” explains managing director 

Andreas Schultheiss. 

Solidscape too is presenting a 

harder material by the name 

of Pluscast which makes it possible 

to produce models with 

an accuracy of up to 5000 dpi. 

Solidscape is presenting its T76 

Rapidshape shows a smaller version of its machine. 

and R66+ system. The main 

difference between the two 

machines is the production volume. 

The new material Pluscast 

is more durable. 

Fabio Esposito, VP worldwide 

sales and marketing at Solidscape, 

sees a link between the 

rising cost of gold and other precious 

metals as raw materials and 

customer demand for the materials 

his company produces. The 

ever-increasing prices are forcing 

designers to seek material-saving 

solutions with a lower thickness, 

he says. This increases the need 

to ensure stable forms. The aim 

is to adjust to new design trends 

and produce the corresponding 

items of jewellery well, whether 

as individual items or in high 

numbers. Listening to customers 

is very important rather than 

focusing solely on technical innovation, 

stresses Fabio Esposito. 

As such, he feels it is important 

Envisiontec has enlarged the product line. 

that the trade show stand should 

feature items of jewellery made 

by designers using the systems 

rather than just the machines 

alone. 

Andreas Schultheiss welcomes 

the competition created by new 

processes such as the selective 

laser melting being presented 

by Sisma, Progold and Concept 

Laser: “I think it’s great that 

it’s here, it fuels the market and 

offers designers more options.” 

He is of the opinion that melting 

will not replace casting. Esposito 

too has no fear of new technologies 

such as laser melting: “Competition 

is welcome and makes us 

all better,” he says. “The quality 

is significantly better with our 

process but it is also a matter of 

cost,” says Christian Frowein of 

Envisiontec. He feels that this 

new technology will hardly represent 

any competition until the 

distant future. (pgl) ■

HALL 1.1 BOOTH B41

INDEPENDENT LUXURY BRANDS WITH A USP. 

Jaermann & Stübi invented the fi rst golf watch with 

a mechanical complication which counts the strokes 

during play and compares the score with the handicap. 

This innovation made the brand the offi cial time piece 

licensee of St Andrews Links, The Home of Golf. 

www.jaermann-stuebi.com 

Vulcain was founded in 1858 and is the inventor of 

the alarm complication for wristwatches. This innovation 

made the brand popular with American presidents 

starting with Harry S. Truman, earning the 

brand its reputation as “The Watch for Presidents”. 

www.vulcain-watches.ch 

BOOTH ON THE 3RD FLOOR OF HOTEL RAMADA PLAZA AT MESSEPLATZ (FAIRGROUNDS). FAIRGROUNDS TOWER. 

FIFTY METERS FROM HALL 1 ACROSS THE SQUARE. 

JAERMANN & STÜBI AND VULCAIN ARE BRANDS OF THE EXCELLENCE HOLDING AG.

A Global Leader in the Design, Manufacture and Distribution of Timepieces.

TECHNIQUE | BOOKS PAGE 38 


Instruments at hand 

Tools and innovations for jewellers and watchmakers 

BASELWORLD is an important 

contact point for watchmakers 

and goldsmiths where they can 

add to their stock of tools and 

look for new products to make 

their everyday work easier. Hall 3 

contains a wide range of product 

innovations. 

Goldsmiths require a number of 

different hand tools for their 

work, depending on the clamping 

range in question. Bijoutil 

has co-developed a product 

which means this range of tools is 

no longer necessary: the new precision 

hand tool from the Swissmade 

label Hi-Tronic can be used 

for all clamping ranges from 0.5 

to 3 mm. No tiresome changing 

of collet chucks or purchase 

and storage of sets is required: 

ground down collets are a thing 

of the past. The handpieces have 

been registered for patent and 

are available with a quick-snap 

coupling or screw coupling for 

micro-motors and for suspension 

drilling motors. 

Veyret is celebrating its 170th 

anniversary this year and is presenting 

the Diprofil tool set. 

Various individually shapeable 

diamond or ceramic tips can be 

added to the hand tool. Uneven 

areas of a casted jewellery item 

can be eradicated with minimal 

automatic movement to and fro. 

Tena Butty, Robur and Pouget- 

Pellerin have come together to 

form the TBRP group and are 

presenting tools and materials 

together under this joint umbrella 

brand. 

One of the new products is an 

improved nanoscale soldering 

agent in a re-fillable spray bottle. 

It is important that the product 

is not poisonous. The Dino-Lite 

Jewellery Design 

Jewellery is now more art than it 

has ever been. The emergence of 

terms like “fine art jewellery” or 

“author’s jewellery” is an eloquent 

Veyret displays the Diprofil tools (above), TBRP a soldering agent in a refillable spray bottle (below). 

digital microscope is also new to 

the range. 

Bergeon is offering new dynamometric 

screwdrivers designed 

for watchmaking production 

and after-sales service. They are 

Most wanted books in Basel 

sign of proof. This books compiles 

the work of more than 70 international 

designers through 500 

images and covers the whole range 

of contemporary jewellery trends, 

shapes, materials 

and techniques: 

new retro, ecological,avantgarde, 

kawai jewellery 

and many 

more. ‘Jewellery 

Design’ is a sourcebook 

of inspiration 

aimed not 

only at designers, 

both professional 

or amateur, 

but also at anyone 

interested in 

one of today’s 

more creative art 

fields. 

adjustable with a special key 

preventing any accidental activation. 

A quick change system 

enables a fast switchover from 

X to Z blades in a matter of seconds. 

(pgl) ■ 

Natalio Martín, Jewellery Design, 

Frechmann Kolón, soft cover, 576 

pages, 280 x 280 mm, 500 pictures, 

text in German, English, Spanish, 

French, Italian and Dutch, ISBN 978- 

84-9936-776-7, CHF 36,50 

On Time 

New York, Nairobi, Kuala 

Lumpur: Time passes everywhere 

and worldwide. The illustrated 

book ‘On Time’ visually addresses 

the interaction of time, culture 

and people in the global context. 

In the course of her travels, author 

and designer Alexandra Martini 

has assembled a collection of photographs 

of timepieces over the 

last 20 years. These images have 

now been, in the true sense of 

the word, chronologically concentrated 

in book format. The photos 

preserve moments in more 

Chronocube is a testing device for mechanical watches. 

Ready for testing 

New measuring devices from Witschi available 

In 2011, Swiss watch testing expert 

Witschi Electronic presented the 

prototypes for a completely new 

product range. This year, the 

products are ready for production 

and are being exhibited in large 

quantities at the company’s stand. 

According to chief marketing and 

sales officer Martin Schürch, they 

wanted to bring higher quality 

products to the lower cost category. 

“We are appealing to watchmakers 

and service shops as well 

as private watch collectors who 

want to test the functions of their 

items,” he says. 

The devices are easy to operate 

and do not require any special 

set-up. Despite this, the quality 

meets the high Witschi standards, 

says Schürch. All of the 

components were sourced from 

Switzerland and the majority 

were also produced here. The 

sensor used in the Chronoproof 

than 40 countries on all continents, 

showing familiar and 

strange locations, in everyday 

and unusual situations. The 

book creates connections with 

their own dynamics between 

continents and cultures, inviting 

to a journey through time 

and space. It is a multilayered 

volume that one can return to 

again and again, perusing the 

timepieces and lingering at the 

locations. 

Alexandra Martini, On Time, 

Braun, hardcover, 1464 pages, 

120 x 165 mm, 721 pictures, 

English, German, Spanish, ISBN 

978-3-03768-081-0, CHF 35 

is the exact same one as features 

in the bigger device, the Proofmaster, 

says Schürch. 

Water-proofing can be tested 

under everyday conditions. The 

integrated compressor is a brand 

new detail compared to the prototypes 

of the Chronoproof presented 

in 2011. The devices cost 

between 2,970 CHF and 3,250 

CHF depending on whether they 

are used with or without pressure. 

The second product now ready 

for production is the Chronocube 

which enables the testing of 

mechanical watches. This device 

is also easy to operate and the 

design is modern with two colour 

variations available. 

When it comes to marketing 

these measuring devices, Witschi 

is also pursuing new channels. 

The range will be offered for sale 

in the company’s own online 

shop. (pgl) ■ 

Books are available at the bookshop right in front of Hall 1 and on 

www.watchprint.com

www.tirisi.com - Boothnumber 2.1 F85 

Jewelry is made of 18 ct gold and some items are made of 18 ct gold combined with sterling silver (925)

THE STEELCAT 

CUSTOM-BUILT, TEAM-DESIGNED, LIFE AQUATIC. 

Mark Cunningham 

nixon.com 

• 5 hand Swiss quartz chronograph with date • Custom 300 meter stainless steel case • 45 minute countdown indicator

PAGE 41 


Carve out your own niche … 

… but leave the actual gem carving to the experts! 

Some gem artists look at a piece 

of rough and see an image of 

what could be created, while others 

have something in mind and 

find the rough to create it. Two 

of BASELWORLD’s most prolific 

and incredibly talented gem 

artists, Manfred Wild, of Emil 

Becker (3.0, K30) and Stefan 

Klein, of Herbert Klein (3.1, L11) 

are some of the finest examples 

of those who use these methods 

to create their art. And wow, 

what gemstone art they create! 

Wild focuses on large objets d’art, 

with possible removable jewellery 

pieces, while Klein focuses on 

the jewellery pieces with separate 

objets d’art. Both have an incredible 

talent for creating detailed 

works of art, with an eye for colour 

and design. And the materials 

that they use could have been 

used for standard cut gemstone 

set jewellery, but choose not to 

use it in that fashion. 

A fabulous suite of amethyst flowers with 

mandarin garnet leaves, by Herbert Klein. 

Here is our Blue Emperor fish, a 274.97 carat 

tanzanite, with the bass, 285.66 carats of yellow 

beryl, by Emil Becker. 

“I see something in the crystal,” 

notes Wild as we stare at one 

of the many magnificent objets 

d’art at his stand in the rear of 

Wild & Petsch, gem cutters from 

Idar-Oberstein. “You could put 

myself and my cousin in front of 

the same piece of rough crystal, 

and he will be thinking ‘How 

many 8 by 10 ovals can we make 

from this?’ and I will be seeing 

the breast of a pheasant, or 

something like that.” He laughs. 

“Each piece we create has its own 

story,” says Wild. “This one, the 

Ice Princess, made of aquamarine 

and rock crystal quartz, has a story.” 

And he proceeds to show us 

the icy crystal-like inclusions in 

the quartz and how the 18 karat 

gold and diamonds ice crystals 

mimic the inclusions. The sculpture 

on the reverse has retained 

the original rough skin, while the 

top, a gold accented carving of 

the princess’s head, is removable 

and can be worn as a beautiful 

aquamarine pendant. 

Wild directs our 

attention next 

to a pair of gem 

carved fish, swimming 

amongst 

red coral on a sea 

of included quartz. 

“Look at that fish,” as 

he points to the 274.97 carat 

carved tanzanite. “We 

actually had a beautiful 

long slender tanzanite 

crystal, and I saw a fish 

inside the crystal. So we 

were looking to find a real fish 

that was of that colour. And we 

found one. It is called the Blue 

Emperor from the Malawi Sea. 

And it looks just like that!” If you 

think that this is amazing that he 

The aquamarine Ice Princess castle, complete 

with 18 karat and diamond ice crystals and prin- 

cess pendant, by Emil Becker. 

would take a larger than 275 carat 

tanzanite crystal and carve it into 

a fish, then realize that this is 

only one fish in the sea of gemcarved 

fish at his stand. Below 

the tanzanite Blue Emperor fish 

is a Coloured Bass, created in 

285.66 carats of yellow beryl. 

Looking for rough 

Speaking with Gabi Klein of Herbert 

Klein, who, together with 

her brother Stefan is co-president 

of the company, tells us that they 

typically will have an order for 

something and then go looking 

for a specific piece of rough. It’s 

important not only to look for 

the best quality gem material 

but for the right size and shape. 

“In any carving, we can have as 

much as 70 to 80% loss,” says 

Klein. “Of course, with obsidian, 

we do not worry so much about 

that,” motioning to an obsidian 

gorilla, and noting that they can 

pretty much slice up a larger, and 

relatively less expensive piece of 

obsidian into the right size. 

But a nice piece of rock crystal, 

for example, can turn out to be a 

pricey sculpture, because it’s no 

longer cheap, and you can’t just 

go chopping up a larger crystal 

into two smaller ones. “If you 

carve an elephant, you lose a lot 

of material for the four legs as 

well as carving the elephant with 

its trunk up.” You carve the trunk 

up for good luck. 

In the showcases at Klein were 

flowers created from faceting 

quality tanzanite, peridot, rubelite 

tourmaline, amethyst, mandarin 

garnet, aquamarine, and 

yellow beryl. “The hedgehog is 

made from cabochon quality 

amethyst,” noted Klein. 

How much is that doggy in the 

window? Made from rock crystal 

quartz, with aquamarine nose, sit- 

ting on a citrine pillow accented by 

18 karat gold., by Herbert Klein. 

Our little hamster is made 

from agate, with 18 karat gold 

whiskers – very cute! 

By Herbert Klein. 

Aquamarine flowers with green 

tourmaline leaves, by Herbert Klein. 

What it takes to be 

creative 

“We are a small workshop,” 

says Wild. “Basically, we have 

a cutter, a carver, a goldsmith, 

and someone to do enameling. 

We have a specialist to hollow 

out a crystal, as well as a cameo 

expert, a maximum of ten people,” 

noted Wild. “When we create 

a piece, we always think about 

everything, from the rough all 

the way up to packaging and 

shipping.” “It’s Stefan and just 

one other in the shop,” notes 

Klein. Klein and Wild are great 

ambassadors for their craft and 

for the industry. The gem materi- 

GEMSTONES 

als are of fine quality, and their 

creations are superb. They are 

more than willing to spend the 

time to show you what they have 

done, what they can do, and why 

they created it the way they did. 

They love to share. After all, as 

Wild puts it, “each one has a 

story.” (gr) n 

This magnificent chimpanzee is made from black obsidian, rhodonite tongue, chalcedony teeth, 

and reverse painted citrine eyes, by Herbert Klein. 

A ruby orchid, by Herbert Klein.

PAGE 43 


Long history of aesthetic 

47 companies from India exhibit at BASELWORLD 

In a rapidly evolving market like 

India, every year holds new surprises, 

which can change fortunes 

in a flash. For now, the 

dice seem to be rolling in favour 

of India with a rise in exports 

and ever-increasing local demand 

for luxury products, driven by 

a population of over 1.2 billion 

people. 

Growth in exports 

The gem and jewellery export 

industry employs a workforce of 

around 1.3 million people. Last 

year, India’s total exports of gem 

and jewellery grew from USD 

38.33 to USD 46.35 billion compared 

to 2010. The export sales 

of cut and polished diamonds 

were recorded at USD 27.21 billion 

in 2011; this in comparison 

to USD 25.10 billion in 2010. 

In order to keep up with innovation, 

exclusive and fancy diamond 

cuts have been patented 

globally by Indian companies. 

A complete spectrum of coloured 

gemstones is also cut and 

polished, shaped and carved 

in India. The Indian coloured 

gemstone industry has expanded 

enormously from its traditional 

roots and most exporters 

in Jaipur, the Indian coloured 

gemstone hub, have chosen to 

equip their factories with the latest 

polishing machines and other 

technology. In 2011, exports of 

colour gemstones clocked in at 

USD 364.62 million, up from 

USD 285.95 million in 2010. 

Reflections on India 

The Indian luxury market witnessed 

a robust growth of 20% 

in the last year and according to 

the Indian Luxury Review 2011 

(a CII − A. T. Kearney Report), it 

is estimated at USD 5.75 billion. 

In comparison, the jewellery market 

stood at USD 730 million in 

2009, which certainly gives room 

for thought. By 2010 it grew by 

a phenomenal 30%. The determining 

factors and drivers to 

this development were increasing 

gold and diamond prices and 

low price elasticity. Watches in 

2009 held a market share of USD 

50 million, which increased by 

29% in 2010. The growth can 

be attributed to increasing supply 

through higher distribution 

reach. 

Overall, luxury products have 

grown the fastest at 29% to reach 

a market share of USD 2.05 

billion, of which jewellery and 

watches have grown even beyond 

expectations. The Indian consumers 

are well-informed and 

increasingly show preference 

for the latest styles. Young consumers 

are joining their older 

counterparts at a rapid pace. But 

whether young or old, the Indi- 

Bollywood actress Bipasha Basu. An exquisite range of traditional jewellery from Royal Heritage Jewellery. 

ans have money to spend and 

are willing to adapt with experimentation. 

They are accepting 

and adopting global trends much 

faster than anticipated. Industry 

players have realized the need for 

Indianization, and some efforts 

are visible in merchandising of 

jewellery and watches. Whether 

it is a preference for two-tone 

metal watch belts in India against 

the rubber belt revolution that is 

sweeping the rest of the World, 

or the need for yellow gold jewels 

that will match better with 

the traditional saree designs of 

the Indian middle-aged woman, 

the need has never been more 

obvious. Awareness and perhaps 

more importantly aspiration levels 

have certainly risen in the 

last year, driven no doubt by the 

increased supply in the market. 

Brands are experiencing growth 

upwards of 20-25% in same store 

sales. 

Best of India in Basel 

In its endeavour to promote 

India as the ‘innovation and 

design destination’ for jewellery, 

the Gem and Jewellery Export 

Promotion Council (GJEPC) of 

India, organizes the India Pavilion 

and India Palace at BASEL- 

WORLD, where exclusive jewellery 

is showcased by India’s finest 

in jewellery design and manufacturing. 

Established in 1966, the 

GJEPC has dynamically led the 

industry to flourish. Being a powerful 

driving engine, propelling 

India’s export-led growth with 

more than 5,500 members spread 

nation-wide, the GJEPC is primarily 

involved in introducing the 

Indian gem and jewellery products 

to the international market 

and leverage their international 

relationships to promote exports. 

One-of-a-kind art pieces with rose-cut diamonds by California Collection. 

A critical area of activity of the 

Council has also been aiding better 

interaction and understanding 

between the trade and the 

Indian government. Today, the 

gem and jewellery industry is one 

of the most dynamic and fastest 

growing sectors of the country’s 

economy, and the industry has 

benefitted from the continuous 

support from the GJEPC. At 

BASELWORLD this year, fortyseven 

prominent companies are 

housed at the India Palace (hall 

2) on 140 sq meters, and in the 

India Pavilion (hall 6) they take 

up no less than 732 sq meters. 

Fifteen new first-time exhibitors 

are being showcased this 

year; Beauty Creation, Everest 

Enterprise, Gehna Classics, Gems 

N Crafts (Export), Inter Continental 

Gems, Karats & Carats, 

Kushal Ratn, Mamraj Musaddilal 

Jewellers & Pearls Dealers, 

Purnapurshottam Exports, R.K. 

Color Diamonds, Sejal Exports, 

ShitalDiam, Sheru Gems, Viva 

Jewels and Star Rays. 

Innovation, beauty and 

craftsmanship 

India has one of the richest traditions 

of handmade jewellery 

using various techniques from 

different regions. On exhibit at 

the India Palace in hall 2 are 

the premium jewellery pieces. 

“BASELWORLD is a very significant 

show for the Indian jewellery 

exporters. The show is like 

a window to the rest of the 

world, to showcase the high skills 

and fine craftsmanship of the 

Indian gems and jewellery industry,” 

states Rajiv Jain, GJEPC’s 

chairman. For Shantivijay Jewels, 

innovation comes natural. Pradeep 

Godha, chairman and managing 

director of the company, 

states: “We will be presenting 

a new range of special distinctive 

jewellery with colourless diamonds, 

coloured diamonds and 

coloured gemstones.” 

A long history of aesthetic and 

unique culture, India has a lot 

to offer. “At BASELWORLD this 

year,” reveals Hiten Shah, direc- 

COUNTRIES 

tor of S P Gems, “we have special 

fancy natural brown, cognac 

and champagne colour diamonds 

from 0.01 carat to 20 carat sizes, 

in round and all fancy shapes.” 

Also, on showcase at his booth 

are black round diamonds. 

Each Indian company is presenting 

new and unique products this 

year at the show. At California 

Collection (India), 18 karat gold 

jewellery with natural multi-coloured 

rose-cut diamonds sparkle. 

One-of-a-kind art pieces studded 

with unique diamond slices are 

not to be missed, and a unique 

beauty of each vibrant precious 

colour is captured exquisitely to 

maximize the stone’s brilliancy. 

Rajeev Shankar Pandya, President 

of Shankar Jewels ends with 

the following statement: “All our 

styles are designed in-house in 

the three state-of-the-art factories 

in Seepz, Mumbai, producing 

30,000 units per month. That 

way we ensure each customer’s 

confidentiality and exclusivity.” 

(pa) n

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PAGE 47 


Luxury market is here to stay 

Sales of luxury goods have increased worldwide 

Many of the major players such as Dior and Chanel have seen double-digit growth in 2011. 

After a strong holiday season, 

and despite currency concerns 

over the falling euro and the 

soaring Swiss franc, the economic 

recovery has maintained its 

momentum. Although growth 

overall is predicted to remain 

flat in 2012, the luxury industry 

continues to boom, despite ris- 

ing gold and diamond prices and 

the resulting price inflation. 

The industry’s major groups have 

reported strong sales for 2011. 

Revenues were up by 16 percent 

to 23.66 billion euros for LVMH. 

Swatch Group, meanwhile, posted 

a 21.7% increase in sales for 

2011 to CHF 143 million. 

Holiday sales in the U.S., a 

major driver of the world luxury 

economy, were positive. On 

Thanksgiving weekend (Black 

Friday weekend) in the U.S., 

Americans spent a record USD 

52.4 billion at retail, with the 

average shopper spending nearly 

USD 400. Overall, 2011 holiday 

retail sales in the U.S. rose 4.1% 

to USD 471.5 billion. 

Worldwide luxury 

Worldwide, according to the 

Bain & Company Annual Luxury 

Goods Market Study, 2010 and 

2011 were two phenomenal years 

for personal luxury goods. The 

market for 2010 was 173 billion 

euros (a 13% increase over 2009) 

and 2011 was expected to close at 

191 billion euros (a 10% increase 

over 2010). 

The study also shows that online 

shopping for luxury goods has 

grown by 25% over the last two 

years, and it grew by 20% in both 

2008 and 2009. Total online luxury 

sales for 2011 were forecast 

to hit 5.6 billion euros in 2011. 

The total in 2010 was 4.5 billion 

euros in 2010. The study says 

68% of sales were full price. 

Jewellery and watches 

The jewellery and watch industry 

together represent 22% of the 

luxury market. Watches in particular 

are enjoying a strong recovery. 

After a disastrous year in 2009, 

sales have recovered to the point 

where Bain declares: “Watches 

lead the wave of growth in luxury.” 

Swiss exports of watches and 

movements finished the year at 

+19.2%, an amazing recovery considering 

considering exports were 

-22 percent in 2009. 

“The strong recovery in the watch 

industry has certainly occurred,” 

comments Jean-Daniel Pasche, 

president of the Federation of 

the Swiss Watch Industry. He says 

investing in new products and new 

markets accounts for the industry’s 

rebound, following the largest 

downturn in 40 years. “The 

Swiss watch industry has continued 

to invest in new products,” he 

says. “Consequently, our industry 

could benefit from the strong 

recovery, especially in Asia and 

Substance to complement your style 

INTERNATIONAL MARKETS 

excepting Japan. On one side, the 

big presence of the Swiss watch 

industry in Asia, which shows the 

biggest economic increases, can 

explain this positive evolution. 

On the other side, we note also a 

growth of our exports to the U.S. 

and Europe which is remarkable in 

current times.” 

Pasche acknowledges that 

“Europe is still a problem, due to 

the euro and the European crisis. 

We hope that confidence comes 

back after the different political 

decisions within the European 

Union. Even in this difficult 

period we are able to improve 

our exports and I believe it will 

continue this way. We can also 

take advantage of the Asian tourists 

visiting Europe. They also 

buy Swiss watches.” 

Some of the jewellery industry’s 

growth has stemmed from inflation. 

Jewellery prices throughout 

2011 were driven higher by 

record gold prices and doubledigit 

increase for diamonds. 

According to a report in Womens 

Wear Daily, products from Bulgari, 

Chanel and Dior went 

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INTERNATIONAL MARKETS PAGE 48 

up on average by 23%. Many of 

the major players have seen high 

double-digit growth this year. 

While this data presents a convincing 

picture of recovery, 

another set of economic realities 

raises the question of whether or 

not this growth is sustainable, 

considering the following: 

• While the forecast for 2011 

holidays sales was 3.8% above 

2010, this falls short of the 5.2% 

increase the U.S. retail industry 

saw last year (2010 over 2009). 

• Spending may be up, but 

consumer debt in the U.S. has 

reached an all-time high. A survey 

by America’s Research Group 

found that 27% of Black Friday 

shoppers used credit cards this 

year, compared to 16% in 2010; 

and 43% admitted to spending 

more than they planned, up from 

39% last year. Personal savings 

rates have fallen to levels not 

seen since late 2007 

• Unemployment remains high, 

at 8.5%. 

• Consumer debt, excluding 

mortgages and home equity credit, 

increased 1.3% in the latest 

quarter, and delinquencies sit at 

10%, up from 9.8% in the previous 

quarter. 

• The euro crisis is a growing 

issue. According to Bain, Europe 

accounts for the largest share of 

the worldwide luxury goods market 

(Germany, France and Italy 

account, collectively, for 39% 

of the market, followed by the 

U.S. at 48%). A further collapse 

of the euro could therefore cause 

recession and affect the luxury 

industry. Bain is in the process of 

studying this situation. 

• The luxury market in China 

(currently unsaturated, at just 9% 

of the luxury market) is growing 

at a rate of 35%, while U.S. 

growth stands at 15% and Europe 

(Germany, France and Italy) have 

a combined average growth rate 

of 11%. 

Cautious optimism 

Forecasters remain cautiously 

optimistic about the economy 

in the coming two years. The 

National Retail Federation forecasts 

industry sales growth in 

the U.S. of only 3.4% in 2012, 

slightly lower than the pace of 

2011, in which sales grew 4.7%. 

The Bain Luxury report weighs in 

with a positive outlook, despite 

socio-economic turmoil. It forecasts 

growth of 10% for 2011, 

and 6-7% from 2011 to 2014. The 

luxury business, which it forecast 

to total 191 billion euros for 

2011, will grow to between 225 


Bn./ U.S. dollar 

According to a study by Goldman Sachs, in the long run the demand for luxury goods in China will 

grow as strongly as in no other country worldwide. 

and 230 billion euros in 2014, 

it predicts. “Luxury, in all its 

segments, is a huge and growing 

market,” concludes the report. 

Generalists are also cautious. “I 

expect economic growth better 

than we’ve had the past few 

quarters, back up to the pace 

that we enjoyed in early 2010,” 

says Bill Conerly of Businomics, 

an online economic forecast. 

“But serious risks from Europe 

mean that business leaders 

should do some economic contingency 

planning.” He predicts 

that, “with this moderate pace of 

economic growth, the Fed will 

certainly keep short-term interest 

rates low. However, continued 

growth in the world economy 

will push up demand for credit, 

pushing long-term rates up by 

about two percentage points in 

two years, so [rates] will end 

2013 around 4%.” Conerly also 

predicts that the U.S. dollar will 

on time EVERY TIME 

New collections. The latest creations. Amazing innovations. 

Getting your goods to BASELWORLD 2012 and sending them direct to eager 

buyers worldwide just got easier. 

FedEx is your Official Courier Service Provider here on site in Hall 1.2 

Business Centre and Hall 6, gamma O30 

fedex.com/ch/baselworld.html baselworld@fedex.com 0848 1 33339* 

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Comparison: growth of luxury good markets 

350 

300 

250 

200 

150 

100 

50 

USA 

Europe 

Japan 

China 

0 

2009 2011 2013 2015 2017 2019 2021 2023 2025 

*(8 cents/min. from a Swiss landline; mobile charges depend on provider) 

Brazil 

Russia 

India 

Source: Goldman Sachs, “The rise of the BRICS and N-11 consumer”, December 2010, forecast 

decline by 6% per year over the 

next two years, that unemployment 

will continue to decline 

slowly − to about 7.5% in 2013 

− and concludes there is a “30% 

probability of a recession centered 

on exports due to the European 

crisis.” 

According to the World Bank, 

global growth is projected to 

remain strong from 2011 through 

2013. “After expanding 3.8% in 

2010, global GDP is projected 

to slow to 3.2% in 2011 before 

firming to a 3.6% pace in each of 

2012 and 2013.” 

As for whether or not current 

record watch sales are sustainable, 

according to Pasche, the 

answer is yes: “We are confident 

in the future, as there is still 

potential for growth all over 

the world,” he says. “Let’s consider 

countries like India, Vietnam, 

Indonesia, East Europe 

and Latin America. It is up to 

our industry to remain attractive 

and competitive, but potential 

exists.” As for the U.S. market, 

he comments, “it is recovering 

at least for our products, but 

I would consider this increase 

partly as catching up what has 

been lost during the crisis. We 

have not yet come back to the 

results of 2007/2008.” (cb) ■

Hall of Visions, Hall 2.1, Stand A72 

Australia’s Finest South Sea Pearl Jewellery 

For Worldwide Stockists: www.pearlautore.com 

2010 Winner Art of Design Awards, Jewllery category, Veranda Magazine USA | 2010 Winner Best Pearl Design Award for the “Princess of the Lagoon” Venezia Collection, Couture, USA | 2009 Winner Italian Jewellery Designer 

of the Year, UK Jewellery Awards | 2008 Winner Best New Jewellery Collection, Baselworld, Vogue Jewellery, Spain | 2008 Winner Best Pearl Design Award for the “Queen of Atlantis” Oceania Collection, Town & Country, USA

SERVICE | IMPRESSUM PAGE 50 

Overview of the halls 

WATCH BRANDS 

Hall of Dreams (1.0) 

Traditional brands/watch manu- 

facturers with international 

brand recognition, brands of 

the major luxury groups 

Hall of Desires (1.1) 

Traditional brands/watch 

manufacturers, brands with 

an international image and 

communication strategy 

Hall of Fascinations (2.0) 

Hall of Sensations (3.0) 

Hall of Inspirations (4.U, 

4.0, 4.1) 

Hall of Emotions (5.0, 5.1) 

Branded watches 

BASELWORLD Palace 

Watch brands 

Opening hours 

Daily: 9 am – 6 pm 

Last day (Thursday, March 15): 9 am – 4 pm 

Prices of admission 

Day ticket CHF 60.– 

Eight-day ticket CHF 150.– 

Catalogue BASELWORLD 2012 

The Watch and Jewellery Show CHF 40.– 

Business Centre & Press Information 

Hall 1.2 

Media Centre 

On the Exhibition Square 

Providing all the international daily newspapers 

and economic journals and also selected 

fashion and lifestyle magazines, as well as the 

complete spectrum of publications revolving 

around the watch and jewellery industry. 

JEWELLERY BRANDS 

Hall of Visions/First Avenue 

(2.2) 

Prestige jewellery 

Hall of Visions (2.2, 2.1) 

Prestige jewellery 

Hall of Feelings (2.1, 2.0) 

Jewellery manufacturers with 

an international communication 

concept 

Hall of Impressions (2.0) 

Jewellery manufacturers 

RELATED BRANDS 

Hall of Elements (3.0, 3.1) 

Stones and pearls 

Hall of Innovations (3.U, 3.2) 

Clocks, watch straps, packaging, 

displays, components, 

tools, machines, others 

BASELWORLD general information 

■ IMPRINT 

BASELWORLD Daily News 

A publication by Untitled Verlag und 

Agentur GmbH & Co. KG 

Managing Director: 

Dr. Christian Jürgens 

Editors: 

Watches: Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine 

Zwettler (sz), William George Shuster (wgs) 

Jewellery: Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder 

(ahe), Christel Trimborn (cete) 

Gemstones: Gary Roskin (gr) 

Countries/International Markets: Axel 

Henselder (ahe), Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc) 

Technique: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl) 

Village: Anja Szerdi (as) 

BASELWORLD Shop 

On the Exhibition Square 

Catalogue Centre, Book Shop, 

Swiss International Air Lines, 

SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus 

Rail 

SBB Swiss Federal Railways 

BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition Square 

Swiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300 

French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35 

German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33 

Air travel service 

Swiss International Air Lines 

BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition Square 

Reservation Swiss International Air Lines, 

tel. +41 848 700 700 

Information EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse- 

Freiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11 

Zurich Airport: tel. +41 900 30 03 13 

Contributors: 

Pooja Agarwal (pa) 

Carol Besler (cb) 

Kyra Brenzinger (kb) 

Gerhard Claußen (gc) 

Elizabeth Doerr (ed) 

Magdalena Malawska (mm) 

Roberta Naas (rn) 

John Rice (jr) 

NATIONAL PAVILIONS 

Hall of Universe (6.0) 

Watches, jewellery and 

related brands 

Editorial Management: 

Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt 

tel. +41 61 699 80 57 

dailynews@unitled-verlag.de 


FREE SHOW GUIDE 

FOR SMART PHONES 

Get the free BASELWORLD app for your 

iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart 

phones! It contains an interactive 3D map of 

the show, visitor information, detailed information 

on the exhibitors as well as a selection of 

articles from the current Daily News issue. 

Free download: 

baselworld.com/app 

Airport 

EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (10 km 

from Basel city centre) and Zurich Airport 

(90 km from Basel city centre). 

A shuttle bus service is available which takes 

you directly to the Basel Exhibition Centre 

from EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg 

(daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm) as well as from 

Zurich Airport (daily from 7.30 am to 7 pm). 

Lost property 

Hall 2.0 

tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70 

Tram 

Tram stop “Messeplatz” 

Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF railway 

stations (8 min.) 

Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway station 

“Badischer Bahnhof” (2 min.) 

Art Direction: 

Kerstin Vorwalter 

Layout: 

Janina Demiana Roll | Heike Wahnbaeck 

Marlene Wolf 

Picture editor: 

Andre Weinberg 

Photos: 

David Matthiessen | Volker Renner 

Daniel Stauch 

Translation: 

Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen 

Prisca DeGroat 

GET IN TOUCH 

WITH BASELWORLD 

Join us on Facebook or follow our latest 

news on Twitter – and interact with us and 

other visitors! 

facebook.com/baselworld 

twitter.com/baselworld 

Prayer room 

In Hall 5.0 there is a prayer room for Muslims. 

For further details, please contact our information 

hosts. 

Basel Tourism 

Tourist Information/Hotel reservation in the 

Stadtcasino at 

Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel 

tel. +41 61 268 68 68 

fax +41 61 268 68 70 

info@basel.com 

www.basel.com 

Exhibition customs office 

Hall 2, Foyer 

tel. +41 58 206 21 22 

Bank – Change – Safe 

Basler Kantonalbank: Congress Center branch 

Advertising: 

MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd. 

BASELWORLD 

CH-4005 Basel / Switzerland 

tel. +41 58 206 2222 

exhibitor@baselworld.com 

Printing: 

Vogt-Schild Druck AG 

CH-4552 Derendingen 

www.vs-druck.ch 

BASELWORLD Daily News is published 

by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & 

Co. KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable 

on application to the publisher. 

All rights reserved. 

BASELWORLD VILLAGE: 

HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT 

Great atmosphere, delicious food, 

cocktails and live music 

Thursday, March 8, 2012 to 

Wednesday, March 14, 2012 

6 pm to 2 am 

Binningerstrasse 14, 

CH-4051 Basel 

RESTAURANTS 

Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary 

elixir in a unique setting 

www.acquabasilea.ch 

Baracca Zermatt – enjoy Swiss 

food in a chalet style atmosphere 

www.baraccazermatt.ch 

We will be pleased to accept 

your table reservations on 

tel. +41 61 564 66 66 

UPCOMING DATES 

FOR BASELWORLD 

April 25 – May 2, 2013 

March 27 – April 3, 2014 

March 19 – March 26, 2015 

BASELWORLD Daily News may 

not be reproduced in any manner of 

form without written permission. 

Publisher’s address: 

Untitled Verlag und Agentur 

GmbH & Co. KG 

Innocentiastraße 33 

D-20144 Hamburg 

tel. +49 40 189 881-0 

fax +49 40 189 881-111 

info@untitled-verlag.de

2012 

March 8-15, 2012 

Hall of Fascinations 2.0 

Stand C62 

LEARN 

MORE 

JG9100-15 

www.jorggray.com

VILLAGE | CELEBS PAGE 52 


Opening of the BASELWORLD Village 

Victorinox enjoying good times 

Victorinox has invited colleagues and friends of the brand to enjoy an unforgettable 

night at the Bar Rouge, in the Ramada Plaza Hotel. While drinking exquisite champagne, 

the guests could unwind from their busy days at the show. (as) n 

Melinda Bam presenting a 

watch exclusively designed for 

her: the WB30 with a 140 dia- 

monds bezel. 

Whilst BASELWORLD is taking place, The Village is the place to be in 

terms of good music, fantastic drinks and delicious food after a long day at 

the show. Hundreds of people have come to this stylish clubbing area to 

either enjoy themselves while dancing or with inspiring conversations on 

the comfortable chill-out couches. (as) n 

„Dream big!“ 

We met Miss South Africa, Melinda 

Bam at the booth of Jet Set (5.0, D23). 

BWDN: What do you like about the 

Jet Set watches? 

Melina Bam: I like that the brand 

is very fashion forward. The watches 

are sophisticated and glamorous. 

I haven’t seen a similar design and 

I think they are statement watches. 

BWDN: How did your attitude towards 

watches changed since you became a 

brand ambassador for Jet Set? 

Bam: I hardly wore watches in the 

past. But now I learned a lot about the 

technique standing behind a watch and 

I understand watches much better. This 

way I learned to appreciate them. I think 

I will always wear a watch from now on. 

Model wearing Soaring 

Dragon, designed by 

Zhong Hua. 

BWDN: The Jet Set slogan is ‘for 

some people the sun never goes 

down’. How does this fit to your life? 

Bam: People have different interpretations 

of this slogan. Some think it 

stands for continuous partying, some 

others see it more like the modern 

business life. For me it is a bit of 

both. Being a model, having photo 

shoots and attending evening events 

is a part of my business. Of course, 

I also have a personal nightlife. This 

is why it fits a lot to me. 

BWDN: How did your life change 

since you became Miss South Africa 

and a brand ambassador? 

Bam: It completely changed. For 

example, I really became a ‘jetsetter’. 

I used to live the typical student life, 

Magic dragons 

at Rhine River 

Under the title ‘Imperial Jewelry 

Show of Dragon Year’, TTF High 

Jewelry presented five chosen pieces 

of extraordinary jewellery artwork, 

designed by renown contemporary 

artists, to its fascinated audience. All 

works are dedicated to The Year of 

the Dragon, which according to the 

Chinese Lunar Calendar has started 

on 23 January 2012. The dragon is a 

symbol for power, strength and majesty. 

For around two hours, charming 

host Katja Reichenstein and 

beautiful models wearing the exquisite 

jewellery turned the restaurant 

Spillmann, located on the Rhine 

River with an amazing view, into 

an enchanting, magic place. Pieces 

like the Soaring Dragon, created by 

female artist Zhong Hua made the 

guests feel the spirit and vitality of 

the collection. (as) n 

which means going to classes every 

day and studying a lot. I finished my 

university degree in marketing and 

business last year. 

Now I can fully concentrate on my 

new responsibilities and projects. 

One project I have chosen is the support 

of “Thuthuzela Aid Community 

Center”, an orphanage close to Johannesburg. 

BWDN: Are you ambitious? 

Bam: Yes. And I think you have to be. 

Next year I would like to launch my 

own fashion brand. And, of course, 

I would like to become Miss Universe. 

Dream big, there is nothing 

wrong with that. 

Interview by Anja Szerdi n

PREMIUM SPECIALISED RETAIL PAGE 54 


“See the leading edge introductions” 

BASELWORLD presents new opportunities to see special editions first for Knar Jewellers 

Greg Buzbuzian, along with his 

brother Jeff, own and operate four 

stores in Southwestern Ontario, 

Canada: in Guelph, Cambridge, 

Waterloo and Oakville. The business 

began in 1978 in a 200 

square foot store. Over the past 

30 years, this dynamic team has 

created stores of innovative style, 

showcasing premier fine jewellery 

and timepieces. The company 

runs its own design studio for custom 

jewellery, and supports many 

organizations and charities in its 

local communities. Greg Buzbuzian 

tells us what BASELWORLD 

means to him. 

BWDN: How many years has 

Knar Jewellers been attending the 

show? As a major watch dealer, is 

it an important part of your buying 

strategy? 

Greg Buzbuzian: We have been 

attending the show for the past 16 

years, and yes, it’s a major part of 

our merchandising process. We 

want to see the leading edge introductions 

as they come out. 

BWDN: Is it important to meet 

with your vendors here? 

“An event not to be missed” 

Pierre Dubail tells us about visiting BASELWORLD 

Pierre Dubail and his son Patrice, 

co-directors of the five Dubail 

boutiques in Paris, welcomed us 

to the prestigious boutique in the 

Place Vendôme, which has been 

freshly refurbished to receive 

international customers visiting 

the capital. 

BWDN: How long have you been 

going to Basel? 

Pierre Dubail: I have been travelling 

to this trade show since we 

opened our first boutique on the 

rue de Rivoli in 1984. Going to 

the trade show is always emotional 

because our attendance accounts 

for around 50 percent of our total 

Pierre Dubail and his son Patrice, co-directors 

of the five Dubail boutiques in Paris. 

The Knar Jewellers stores are known for their innovative style. 

Buzbuzian: It is very important 

for us to solidify our relationships 

with our vendors, and it is crucial 

to do that in person and see live 

product. The reps could bring a 

picture to your store, but it’s not 

the same thing. It also shows 

more of a commitment on our 

part if we make the effort to 

attend BASELWORLD. Coming 

to the show is also a good way to 

network with our fellow retailers, 

which is important too. 

BWDN: What brands will you 

work with? How many? 

orders for our five boutiques, so 

it’s a big responsibility! It’s a bit 

like a race and we are now in the 

starting blocks! 

BWDN: How long do you stay at 

the show? 

Dubail: We stay for two days but 

it is very intense. We have meetings 

with the big watchmaking 

brands and this is our opportunity 

to meet the managers and exchange 

ideas with them. We also identify 

some new brands and find out 

about our competitors. 

BWDN: How do you go about 

choosing your brands? 

Dubail: The choice is very interactive 

and takes place between the 

retailer and the brand to provide 

the haute horlogerie with the best 

possible representation. We are 

very proud to work with some 

must-have brands and various 

niche brands complete with all 

their specific features. 

BWDN: What are your selection 

criteria? 

Dubail: We operate a highly selective 

procedure and work with 18 

watch brands in total. We voluntarily 

limit our choice so that we 

can serve as a proper partner to 

Buzbuzian: We work with eight to 

ten brands, including Rolex, Chopard, 

Hearts on Fire, for example, 

and we will also have a look at 

what other brands might be available 

to us. 

BWDN: Do you see products at 

BASELWORLD that you would 

not see anywhere else? 

Buzbuzian: Absolutely. Some of 

them are not for our marketplace 

− I don’t need to be bringing in 

things that the stores in Monaco 

would − but it is important to see 

them. BASELWORLD is an 

The Dubail boutiques offer a unique shopping experience. 

these brands. We are also developing 

limited edition series dedicated 

to our new space in the Place 

Vendôme. But we are going to 

unveil some great surprises at the 

end of the year to mark the 20th 

anniversary of this boutique too! 

BWDN: Do you look for trends at 

the trade show? 

Dubail: BASELWORLD presents 

an opportunity to discuss market 

trends with others in the industry. 

We require an international offer 

because we have a broad range of 

clients with very high standards 

who visit us from the Palaces 

neighbouring our five boutiques. 

opportunity to see products that 

you would never see at any other 

show, and here you see them first. 

BWDN: Do you get a sense of 

overall trends at the show? Do you 

take time to walk the show? 

Buzbuzian: We definitely get a 

feel for overall trends at the show 

− whether or not we’re going back 

to yellow gold, or are watches getting 

smaller, for example. These 

types of observations will affect 

our decision making. Also, we 

found a hot product in Basel last 

year that we wouldn’t otherwise 

have known about had we not 

explored the show. 

BWDN: What do you think 

will be the mood at this 

year’s show? Are you expecting 

to see price increase? 

Buzbuzian: I expect the 

mood, overall, to be 

very positive. A lot 

Jeff and Greg Buzbuzian 

from Knar Jewellers, 

Ontario. 

The international trade show provides 

us with a good indication of 

the global trends. 

BWDN: Could you share a memorable 

story with us about one of 

your clients? 

Dubail: The clients who visit our 

boutiques are highly prestigious. 

One day one of our regular customers, 

Gianni Versace, visited 

our boutique with his old friend 

Elton John. They stayed quite a 

long time here together, relaxing 

and buying a few watches. Sometimes, 

they would both want the 

same model but they were always 

kind and courteous, with each tell- 

of the retailers in the U.S. have 

had a good year and a good Christmas. 

We’ve had a good year, and 

the first five weeks of this year 

have been quite good. As far as 

price increase goes, it looks like 

the price of gold is here to stay, 

and there is some upward pressure 

on certain gem prices, as well as 

on diamonds. Strong currency 

prices, namely the Swiss franc, as 

well as pent-up demand, will also 

be a factor. With all of these combined, 

I think we will see some 

upward pressure on prices this 

year. 

Interview by Carol Besler ■ 

ing the other to take it. It was a 

truly unforgettable and very enjoyable 

moment! 

BWDN: In your opinion, what 

role does BASELWORLD play in 

the world of jewellery and watchmaking? 

Dubail: It is the original trade 

show and attending the show is 

one of the most important 

moments of the year. It is an 

essential investment and we would 

never miss out on a visit because it 

determines the rest of the year for 

us. We draw up our balance sheet 

after the show in March. 

BWDN: Have you noticed any 

trends at the show? 

Dubail: In the 28 years that I have 

been visiting BASELWORLD, 

I have seen it evolve from an ‘exhibition’ 

to a genuine ‘trade show’. 

BWDN: What do you expect of a 

trade show like BASELWORLD? 

Dubail: We expect an ever improving 

level of organisation to enable 

us to work in better conditions. 

We also expect to discover new 

features and innovations which 

impress! 

Interview by Kyra Brenzinger ■

N 

S

When classic meets eternity. 

BASELWORLD 

Hall 1.0, Stand B19 

Every Manero is a masterful example of watchmaking craftsmanship in its most authentic form. 

And thanks to the perpetual calendar it is an expression of the highest form of watchmaking 

achievement. The Manero Perpetual’s date, day of the week, month and moon phase displays 

take the complexities of the calendar in their stride and will require absolutely no correction 

until the year 2100, when a leap year will be omitted. 

www.carl-f-bucherer.com

On the runway to success - MCH Group

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