Business starts now - MCH Group

FRIDAY, MARCH 9, 2012
BASELWORLD I THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW I WHERE BUSINESS BEGINS AND TRENDS ARE CREATED I MARCH 8 - 15, 2012
Heritage and innovation
are the pillars of Carl F.
Bucherer − CEO Sascha
Moeri talks about the
independent brand.
Page 2
Delightful dragons − one
of a kind designs pay
homage to the mythical
creature in the world of
Haute Horlogerie.
Page 6
Business starts now
BASELWORLD 2012 opens with high expectations
The symbolic blue ribbon at the
trade show was cut by Federal
Councillor Johann Schneider-
Ammann, member of the Basel
cantonal government Christoph
Brutschin, Chairman of the
Exhibitors’ Committee Jacques
J. Duchêne, CEO of the MCH
Group René Kamm, President
of the Grand Council of Basel
Daniel Goepfert and member
of the Basel-Landschaft cantonal
government Peter Zwick, marking
the official opening of BASEL-
WORLD 2012. René Kamm said:
“The presence of representatives
from the state government is an
indication of the importance of
the industry. The industry serves
as a role model for the country
as a whole, having achieved a
record year, despite the soaring
Swiss franc and numerous crises
across the world.” The Swiss
watch industry is the third most
important branch of industry in
the country and employs over
50,000 workers. BASELWORLD
2012 is the biggest trade show
held in Switzerland. The new
items and trends presented here
confirm BASELWORLD’s position
as the world’s leading trade
show in the watch and jewel-
lery industry. Federal Councillor
Johann Schneider-Ammann said:
“The watch industry symbolises
the values which define Switzerland:
reliability, accuracy and
the ability to consistently reinvent
itself − i.e. successful innovation.
It is the crowning glory
of Swiss industry as a whole”.
The fact that the watch industry
is such a gem in the Swiss
economy is primarily thanks to
Nicolas Hayek, as the Federal
Councillor recalled. Johannes
Schneider-Ammann feels it is
entirely possible that the 20 bil-
The pure beauty of simplicity
− ck watch & jewelry
CEO Arlette-Elsa
Emch shares the fashion
brand’s values.
Page 22
A successful opening act with plenty of ceremony: member of the Basel cantonal government Christoph Brutschin, Chairman of the Exhibitors’ Committee
Jacques J. Duchêne, Federal Councillor Johann Schneider-Ammann, CEO of the MCH Group René Kamm, President of the Grand Council of Basel Daniel
Goepfert and member of the Basel-Landschaft cantonal government Peter Zwick declared BASELWORLD open.
“First Avenue is the right place”
Meissen Joaillerie shows finest jewellery with porcelain elements
BWDN spoke to Dr. Christian
Kurtzke, Chairman of the Management
Board at Staatliche
Porzellan-Manufaktur Meissen,
about the company’s presentation
on First Avenue.
BWDN: This is the first time
you exhibit on First Avenue.
What do you hope to gain
from the atmosphere here?
Dr. Christian Kurtzke: Meissen
is one of the leading luxury
brands in the world. As such,
we have positioned ourselves in
the elite sector of the jewellery
industry. There was therefore no
doubt that First Avenue was the
right place for Meissen to exhibit.
BWDN: Meissen Joaillerie is still a
young brand in the jewellery industry.
How has your jewellery been
received by the markets to date?
Kurtzke: We succeeded in positioning
ourselves in the superior
jewellery category in our first
year. Some important jewellers
with a long-standing retail tradition
decided to work with us in
the future. We are now building
on this and continuing to expand
the distribution network for our
jewellery items, albeit selectively.
BWDN: To what extent is the
DNA of the 300-year old Meissen
porcelain manufacturer evident
in the jewellery collection?
Dr. Christian Kurtzke, CEO Meissen.
lion mark will be surpassed in
2012 for watch exports. Christoph
Brutschin is equally positive
about the prospects and
added: “BASELWORLD is in a
class of its own in terms of its
significance for the watch and
jewellery industry.” (ahe) ■
Kurtzke: Meissen first created
jewellery some 300 years ago with
the famous court jewellers of
Augustus the Strong. According
to our archives, the first charms
were produced in 1767. Our Milanese
designer draws her inspiration
for the current product
range from the company archives
which date back four centuries.
Each item has an authentic story
to tell. Our new ‘Royal Blossom
Collection’, for example, is reminiscent
of a gift given by King
Augustus III to his wife Maria
Josepha in 1739.
Interview by Axel Henselder ■
The cultured pearl keeps
getting better and better.
Be amazed and impressed
at the wonderful advance
in quality.
Page 41
It is a great pleasure to welcome
you to the 40th Edition of
BASELWORLD!
Only once a year the beauty of
the worldwide watch and jewellery
industry is truly revealed
in all its glory to the whole
world. The discovery of this
magnificent universe takes
place at the heart of the Swiss
watch industry itself, with some
of the most prestigious and
world-renowned names in the
business.
The 441 Swiss exhibitors demonstrate
their expertise in the
art of watchmaking and their
skilful craftsmanship, while allying
the latest technologies to
fashion that represents multiple
eras through time. This is how
the many new releases that are
presented year after year are produced
by these top-notch brands
and the creation of exceptional
products takes form.
We invite you on this emotional
journey down memory lane
across the stages of life and eras
from past to future through the
stunning pieces and creations
of the world’s best, all within
the staggering setting that is
BASELWORLD. We wish you
a great voyage of discovery in
visiting the 296 watch brands,
33 jewellery brands and 112
representatives of the related
sectors and look forward to seeing
you along the way.
François Thiébaud
President of the Swiss Exhibitors’
Committee

WATCHES PAGE 2
■ CONTENT
Watches
Carl F. Bucherer / Chronographs 2
Tissot / Big date 4
Movado / the Year of the Dragon 6
Raymond Weil / Omega / Harry
Winston 8
Perrelet / Timex 13
Roamer / Marvin Watches 15
Guess / Fashion 17
Morellato & Sector 18
Palace
Peter Speake-Marin 18
Trends
Garden Queen / ck 22
Jewellery
Centurion / Nesper Pearls / 24
Pasquale Bruni / Emotion France 26
Fope / Animal jewellery 30
Victor Mayer / Blossom rings 32
Technique
Laser melting 34
Alloys 38
Gemstones
Pearls 41
Countries
Hong Kong 43
International Markets
Diamond Report 47
World Federation of Diamond
Bourses 48
Service, Imprint 50
Village / Celebs 52
Premium specialised retail
Europe Watch / Wave 54
The history of Bucherer dates back
to 1888, when Carl F. Bucherer
opened his first watch retail business
in Lucerne, Switzerland. In
1919, the company embarked on
the production of top-quality
timepieces under the Bucherer
brand name. Repositioned under
the name Carl F. Bucherer in
2001, the independent brand has
blazed its own trail by manufacturing
fine watches featuring highly
sophisticated complications.
BWDN: Last year, you unveiled
the CFB-manufactured A1000-caliber
movement for the first time in
a round case at BASELWORLD.
What do you have in store for us at
this year’s show?
Sascha Moeri: Among the many
timepieces we plan to show at
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Growth in all markets
Carl F. Bucherer CEO Sascha Moeri shares company and product news
Sascha Moeri, CEO Carl F. Bucherer.
Ball Watch offers stunning new chronographs, such as the new Trainmaster World Time.
BASELWORLD 2012, Carl F.
Bucherer will be presenting the
Patravi DayDate. This model also
comes in a round case that manages
to be both eye-catching and discreet
at the same time. It shows the
current day of the week and has a
big date display. Another attractive
feature is the complex CFB A1001
functional module, which is manufactured
entirely in our own workshops
in Ste-Croix.
BWDN: Carl F. Bucherer’s passion
for creating complicated calendars
extends to perpetual calendars and
innovative GMT watches. Is there
anything new in this area?
Moeri: By now, our passion for
designing and producing ambitious
mechanical watches has become a
tradition and is perhaps best illustrated
by the new Manero
ChronoPerpetual, which is available
in an edition limited to 100
pieces.
The perpetual calendar, with correction-free
indication of the date,
day of the week, month and moon
phase, remains a technical challenge
that can be met by only a
handful of watchmakers. The
mechanism recognizes the different
lengths of the months and knows
when the next leap year is approaching.
My own particular favourite is
the latest Manero ChronoPerpetual
in rose gold with a classic anthracite
dial.
BWDN: What about the GMTs?
Moeri: As for GMTs, we are very
proud to launch the Patravi
TravelTec FourX in rose gold here.
This dynamic timepiece features a
combination of four exclusive
materials: 18 K rose gold, ceramic,
rubber and titanium. The intricate
skeletonized dial features three
time zones and has chronograph,
hour, minute and small seconds
hands as well as a date display. The
unique integration of movement
and case calls for watchmaking
skills at the highest-possible level.
BWDN: Carl F. Bucherer also
makes watches with a distinctly
feminine appeal, such as the Alacria,
a fabulous jewellery watch that
scintillates with precious stones.
Do you have anything new for the
ladies this year?
Moeri: The Bucherer Group has a
proud tradition of creating sophisticated
jewellery using exquisite
precious stones. A vast amount of
imagination and creativity combined
with skilled craftsmanship
goes into the manufacture of these
pieces. Carl F. Bucherer practices
and emulates the same values in its
watches, of which a prime example
is the Alacria. The design and form
of this model were created as a
tribute to elegance and femininity.
This year we are presenting the
Alacria TwoTone, which seamlessly
blends high-quality stainless steel
Today’s chronographs set new records
Stop watches remain in the spotlight as a favourite complication at the show
Essentially, a chronograph is a
timepiece that indicates not only
the time of day in hours, minutes
and seconds, but also is equipped
with an additional mechanism
that makes it possible to measure
continuous or discontinuous
intervals of time, from a fraction
of a second up to twelve hours
depending on the chronograph.
The newest chronographs on the
market take fraction-of-a-second
timing to new heights, new designs
and new readouts. A wealth of different
types of chronographs are
emerging here at BASELWORLD,
with some companies continuing
to combine chronograph movements
with additional complex
watch functions.
From TAG Heuer, the all new
Mikrogirder offers split second
timing to the most hair-splitting
degrees. A breakthrough in highfrequency
performance, the
Mikrogirder features advanced
mechanical engineering that
includes a beam/girder regulator
system (visible on the dial) that
beats all of its predecessors in timing
to fractions of a second. This
Concept watch beats at 1,000 Hz
and the chronograph times to
5/10,000th of a second − making
it about 250 times faster than an
ordinary watch with 7,200,000
beats per hour.
The Mikrogirder is equipped with
a dual frequency system that
ensures precision through two
independent chains. The high
speed is on demand, reducing
wear and tear on the watch. Additionally,
readability is optimized.
The smallest fraction of time is
displayed on a central hand that
does a complete revolution around
the dial 20 times per second. However,
three separate scales allow for
quick and easy reading of the
5/10,000ths or 1 /2000th of a second.
This concept watch is an
incredible experience to conceive
and watch − and is definitely
worth a visit to the TAG Heuer
stand.
Following this concept watch, other
chronograph newness comes in
the form of sophisticated appeal
and function.
Similarly Ball Watch offers its
Trainmaster WorldTime Chronograph
with a host of horological
complexities. Embracing the concept
of the Trainmaster collection
− precision and reliability − this
new chronograph houses an ETA
7750 movement, and features a
24-hour time zone display via
an additional module that
drives the city disk, automatically
rotating counterclockwise
to provide a
simultaneous indication of
time on the 24 longitudes.
It is complex, functional,
informative and easy to use.
With its combination of simple
elegance and contemporary
watch technology, Omega’s De
Ville Chronograph Co-Axial Calibre
9300/9301 is a beautiful example
of a timeless classic. It debuts
in a 42 mm red gold case with a
blue two-zone dial. The chronograph
sub-dial at 3 o’clock has
with the finest rose gold. A version
embellished with radiating diamonds
can also to be viewed at our
booth.
BWDN: What are Carl F. Bucherer’s
most important markets in 2012?
Moeri: Upheavals in the global
economy have clearly affected markets
in different ways. At the
moment, the world’s fastest-growing
region is undeniably Asia, and
China in particular. For this reason,
our main objective in 2012 will be
to continue strengthening our
Shanghai subsidiary.
As you would expect, our deep
roots and heritage as a thoroughbred
Swiss watch manufacturer and
iconic European watch retailer
make it imperative that we never
lose sight of our home markets in
Switzerland, Germany and Austria.
These markets stand for luxury,
tradition and authenticity par
excellence, and continue to
demand special care and attention.
We are also pleased to report that
sales in the U.S. have shown an
unexpected and very encouraging
increase over the past year, and will
therefore be focusing more closely
on the U.S. market in the months
ahead. Despite the looming election,
this is proving to be a growth
year for Carl F. Bucherer.
Interview by Sabine Zwettler ■
both the 60-minute and 12-hour
counters so reading the elapsed
time is intuitive. At the 9 o’clock
position is the small seconds hand,
the chronograph seconds hand is
in the centre. Water-tight to 100
metres, the new De Ville features a
sapphire case back revealing its
beautiful inner works. (rn, sz) ■
TAG Heuer
Mikrogirder.
New Omega De Ville
Chronograph.

WATCHES PAGE 4
■ NEWS.TRENDS
Breitling’s new world time watch,
the Transocean Chrono Unitime with
a movement developed in-house
pays homage to a universal time
automatic watch known as Unitime
which was developed by Breitling
some 60 years ago. The
24-hour display and
the city ring showing
24 cities around
the globe can
be moved forward
or backwards
in the
new construction
using the
winding crown.
The date is also
corrected in this way
while the time continues
unaffected. (gc)
1.0, A13
Transocean Chrono Unitime from Breitling.
The automatic Heritage Chronograph
Limited Edition 1938 pays homage
to a chronograph that Eterna
launched in the late Art Deco era.
Striking in its harmonious balance, the
square stainless steel case with interesting
one-piece lugs measuring 36 x
45.5 mm frames a black dial boasting
gold-coloured hands, markers and
chronograph elements.
The fine interplay of
matte and polished
case elements
topped off by
a reinterpreted
black leather
strap with an
orange seam
instantly transports
the wearer
to the year 1938.
(ed) 1.0, B21
Heritage Chronograph
Limited Edition 1938.
The Longines Saint-Imier collection
commemorates the village
where Longines was founded in 1832.
Inspired by a model dating from
1945, the collection includes a chronograph
and a prestige model featuring
four retrograde functions, day/
night display and moonphase. Cases
are either steel, rose gold or two-tone,
with a choice of four case sizes. Dials
are black, silvered or mother-of-pearl
with diamond indices. All are fitted
with mechanical movements. (cb)
1.0, C01
Longines Saint-Imier collection.
François Thiébaud, president of
the Swiss watch brand Tissot, tells
BWDN why its innovative timepieces,
drawing on its watchmaking
traditions, are making 2012
another good year.
BWDN: Tissot SA recently won
first prize with its Le Locle
chronometre in the ‘Classic —
Enterprise’ part of the International
Timing Competition.
What does that mean?
François Thiébaud: It signifies
that a Tissot mechanical watch
also offers ultimate accuracy and
resistance, and that being number
one isn’t a matter of price.
The fact that Tissot is still a key
player in manufacturing mechanical
watches today is appreciated
by watch buyers. This watchmaking
tradition has been part of Tissot’s
DNA since 1853. For us, the
watches’ mechanical assets reflect
the tradition of both Tissot and
the Swiss watch industry.
BWDN: Tissot debuted its Seastar
1000 collection in 2011.
What’s the response?
Thiébaud: Seastar watches have
a long history with Tissot. Last
year, the Tissot Seastar 1000
models were launched and have
been very well received and much
appreciated by divers. This year,
the new Tissot Seastar 1000 Pro-
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
A winning tradition
Tissot continues to be a key player in swiss watchmaking
François Thiébaud, president of Tissot.
fessional, which meets the ISO
6425 diver’s watch norm and has
an ETA Valjoux 7750 movement,
is here at Basel in a limited edition
of 1,000 pieces.
Form follows function
The big date display remains as a popular feature on the dial
Watch enthusiasts value big date
displays as a useful additional
feature: the date can be read
quickly at a glance and presents
an attractive design element
on the dial. Watchmakers have
known this since the 1930s and
40s when watches with these displays
were often produced. However,
they did not become a big
success at that time because both
men and women preferred smaller
watches in general. It
wasn’t until the mid 90s
that prominent big date
displays made a comeback
and celebrated
success. Today, virtually
all brands offer
models featuring
a date display
comprising extralarge
numbers.
This means a
construction challenge
because large
numbers require
an equally sized disc
beneath the dial. This
problem has been brilliantly
resolved: some
constructions feature two
or three discs on top of one other,
demonstrating the invention
skills of the watchmaker.
At BASELWORLD, the story of
watches with a big date display is
being continued with some interesting
new items: in the 1990s,
Glashütte Original was one of the
first manufacturers to construct a
watch with a striking date display
and is now presenting the Senator
Observer in stainless steel.
This features the Glashütte
Original ‘panorama date’
function at the 6 o’clock
position powered by a
traditionally decorated
automatic calibre.
Pequignet also focuses
on classical and
traditional in its
Paris Royal Collection
which is
now available in
stainless steel. The
Senator Observer from Glashütte
Original with a power reserve display
and panorama date function.
BWDN: What are some other
Tissot debuts here?
Thiébaud: We want to share
our victory at the International
Timing Competition with our
big date display and large day
display are unmissable on
the watch dial.
In contrast to this classic
elegance, TAG Heuer
presents its big date display
in a more sporty
fashion: the new edition
from the Formula
1 collection is
being exhibited at
BASELWORLD, a
sporty watch which was
first presented in the mid
80s and is now back with
18 brand new models — one of
them with a big date display. The
sporty look of the watches with
a titanium carbide-coated bezel
and red detailing is a reference
to McLaren, the watch manufacturer’s
Formula 1 partner.
While Glashütte and Pequignet
opt for classic design and TAG
Heuer favours a sporty look,
the new items from Maîtres du
Temps are more about glamour
and avantgarde: Peter Speake-
Marin and Daniel Roth add a
touch of sparkle to the Chapter
Two model and its jumping triple
calendar with a glittering dia-
customers. So, we’re presenting
a new Tissot Le Locle Automatic
Chronometer Edition with
COSC certificate. We’re also
launching the new MotoGP Editions,
which take dynamism to
the next level with new bi-material
straps.
BWDN: What about quartz
watches?
Thiébaud: For our quartz watches,
we have two new collections.
They are the very light Tissot
Titanium Quartz Chronograph
and the Tissot PRS 330, with a
hint of motor sport inspiration,
the perfect watch for people who
live life at full speed.
We also have new lady watches,
like the Tissot T-Race Danica
Patrick Limited Edition 2012
with ceramic bezel and the Tissot
T-10, full of Parisian charm.
BWDN: How was business in
2011; what do you expect in
2012?
Thiébaud: 2011 was another great
year for Tissot and our 16th consecutive
year of growth. We’re
starting 2012 on the right foot
and expect our innovative products,
based on watchmaking tradition,
will continue to drive our
success.
Interview: William G. Shuster ■
The automatic Chapter Two watch from Maîtres
du Temps with jumping triple calendar, including a
big date display.
mond frame. The date displays
are particularly striking: while the
large date display is positioned
at 12 o’clock, the week day and
month are displayed in separate
windows of the case above and
below the dial — all powered
by an automatic movement. The
case comes in white or red gold.
(iwi) ■

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WATCHES PAGE 6
■ NEWS.TRENDS
The Bell & Ross BR01 Horizon,
part of the brand’s aviation collection,
is inspired by the instrument panel
of an aircraft cockpit. The grey colour
represents the sky, while black represents
earth. The two parts of the dial
are separated by a white horizon line
marking the 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock
axis. The case is PVD-coated stainless
steel. Hands and markers are
covered in a white photo-luminescent
coating that echoes the markings on
aviation instruments. The watch contains
an automatic movement and
is water-resistant to 100 metres. (cb)
1.0, B23
The Bell & Ross BR01 Horizon recalls the
instrument panel of an aircraft cockpit.
The Dior VIII Grand Bal is a study in
contrasts, with a black ceramic case,
bezel and bracelet, which are set with
diamonds. The dial is black, Vietnamese
mother-of-pearl, serving as the
perfect backdrop for the white gold
oscillating weight, featured on the dial.
The rotor is dramatically set with diamonds.
The ceramic bezel
is also set with diamonds,
for a total gem weight of
1.07 carats. It contains
an automatic ‘Dior
Inverse’ calibre
movement with
a 42-hour power
reserve, and
is water-resistant
to 50 metres. (cb)
1.1, D03
Dior’s elegant black ceramic
VIII Grand Ball is set with
263 diamonds.
Eberhard & Co, celebrating its
125th anniversary in 2012, interprets
its Champion collection, originally
launched in the 1990s, with the new
Champion V, an automatic chronograph
with an ETA 7750 movement.
The new model comes with various
options of dial and bezel, which give
each a distinctive personality. The
case back is secured by six screws
and embellished with a contrasting
shiny and satin finish. The steel
bezel has a circular aluminium insert
treated with ‘eloxage’ (coloured with
iodine oxidation), showing the hours.
It comes on a leather strap with the
buckle personalised ‘E & Co.’ or a
steel Chablis bracelet. The watch is
water-resistant to 50 metres. (cb)
1.0, D19
The Eberhard Champion V has a circular
aluminium insert treated with eloxage.
According to Efraim Grinberg,
chairman and CEO of Movado
Group, the past two years have
been strong for the Group and
that has translated into a burst
of energy and innovation surrounding
all of its brands, but
particularly, this year, on Ebel.
Here, he shares his thoughts on
the new Ebel product and ad
campaign.
BWDN: What is the most significant
unveiling this year?
Efraim Grinberg: We have so
many brands and they are all
unveiling important pieces, but
the exciting emphasis this year is
on the new product at Ebel. We
have been working on this for
quite a while now, and are taking
it to the next level. Since we
acquired Ebel, we have not had
the innovation needed to propel
that brand, now we have two
exciting new lines that reflect the
Ebel heritage but are brand new
and visionary.
BWDN: What are those lines?
Grinberg: The Ebel XI, which
is predominantly for women,
with one style for men, and is a
sporty chic personality crafted in
steel, steel and rose gold and in
ceramic and rose gold. The other
line, currently only for women,
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Full ahead with Ebel for ladies
Movado Group’s Efraim Grinberg speaks about Movado and Ebel
Efraim Grinberg, chairman and CEO of Movado.
is Onde, which means ‘wave’ in
French. Both reflect the overall
new Ebel strategy.
BWDN: Are there other components
to this introduction?
Grinberg: To accompany this big
launch, we are also unveiling a
new print ad campaign, and will
take our digital efforts to new
levels with our website in late
summer, early fall. Today’s consumer
needs to absorb a brand
not just in a print aspect, but
also in the digital arena. The line
is also being backed by all new
point of purchase and marketing
materials, displays and packaging.
We are excited to present a
newer Ebel.
BWDN: What was your strategy
behind focusing on ladies?
Grinberg: Many brands are
focused with a big emphasis on
men’s mechanical watches and
at Ebel, catering to women is
in our DNA. Ebel was founded
by a man and a woman, and
this female aspect is key to our
offering luxury watches in a fashionable
way. We have always
offered strong, sensual watches
for women so we felt it was the
been modelled, engraved and
gold-plated by hand from the
solid silver dial. Its narrow and
twisted body stands out effectively
against the rhodium-plated
background of the watch dial
while its diamond eyes sparkle
defiantly. This magic also extends
to the reverse of the movement
where a dragon’s claw forms the
centre of the movement.
Chopard limits its dragon motif
to the movement: the new L.U.C
Tourbillon Dragon model features
a delightful dragon engraving
on the plate of the internallymanufactured
movement. Seen
from the front, this complicated
model appears to be dragon-free:
the tourbillon is a particularly
eye-catching feature and is supported
by an angular and visible
screw-down bridge as well
as the retrograde display of the
eight-day power reserve at the 12
o’clock position.
Christophe Claret is also focusing
on dragons at BASEL-
WORLD: his latest creation Baccara
Dragon is a continuation of
21 Blackjack which was presented
in 2011. Now the watch features
a black dragon on the transparent
opportune time to launch a product
this way. BASELWORLD is
the first time anyone will see the
new lines.
BWDN: It was recently announced
that Ebel has sold Calibre 137,
can you expound on this and the
thoughts behind it?
Grinberg: One of the most important
initiatives for Ebel now is to
have tremendous focus − that
focus is on women’s watches −
being inspired and using innovative
designs and materials. We
are looking forward, not back.
BWDN: With all the emphasis
on Ebel, what is new at Movado?
Grinberg: We are still enjoying
the success of the Bold that was
introduced 18 months ago, and
brings in a new customer. We
are also limiting our distribution,
so the demand for the brand
exceeds the supply. Now we have
a few new products in Bold, and
in the core line; it is one of the
strongest presentations we have
brought to Basel. Here, too, we
have a new line for women called
Cerena. We also have an men’s
automatic and quartz presentation
in the very successful Concerto
line.
Interview by Roberta Naas ■
In honour of the Year of the Dragon
Some stunning new timepieces are dedicated to the mythical creature
The Year of the Dragon is said
to bring innovative ideas and
financial gain and people born in
this year are blessed with special
characteristics such as courage,
ambition and charisma: in Asia,
the dragon is a mystical and worshipped
creature. Dragons were
once the symbol of the emperor
because emperors used to sit on a
dragon throne and were the only
ones who were permitted to wear
specific dragon motifs.
The Year of the Dragon began
on January 23, according to the
Chinese Calendar. This calendar
places the start of the year as
the second new moon after the
Winter Solstice and allocates one
of 12 animal symbols to each
year which alternate in a fixed
order. Each animal symbol for
each year is also accorded an
element from the Five Elements
theory − wood, fire, earth, metal
or water. We are currently in the
year of the ‘water-dragon’ which
is particularly promising.
The mysticism of the dragon
has caused many designers to
come up with unique creations,
and not just in the jewellery and
watches field. Even Rolls Royce
The L.U.C Tourbillon Dragon from Chopard
features a tourbillon on the front and a hand-
engraved dragon on the movement plate.
has devised a special edition of
the Phantom luxury car which is
dedicated to the dragon. The new
watches featuring dragon motifs
which are being presented at
BASELWORLD are much more
subtle. Here, these mythical creatures
are displayed on a small
area of the watch dial or even on
the back of the movement. But
they are all miniature works of
art − such as the Golden Dragon
by Kudoke. Here a dragon has
Modelled, engraved and gold-plated by hand
from the solid silver dial: Kudoke is presenting the
Golden Dragon with an automatic movement.
dial but otherwise offers the same
gadgets as its predecessor model:
the mechanical watch is a genuine
miniature casino for betting
with dice or gambling on roulette
or blackjack.
To accompany these unusual
watches, Zannetti (Scatola del
Tempo) is presenting a watch
winder with a three-dimensional
silver dragon. The perfect addition
to watches in the Year of the
Dragon. (iwi) ■

PARTNER OF
HALL 1.1 – BOOTH D05
www.perrelet.com

WATCHES PAGE 8
■ NEWS.TRENDS
Jaermann & Stübi, specializing
in automatic watches for golfers,
expands its St Andrews Links Collection.
The latest model has a mechanical
counter for the number of strokes
at the hole to be played, a totalizer
for the overall score after 18
holes played and a retrograde display
for the hole being currently played.
The rotating bezel allows players to
compare the played score after a
round of golf with their handicaps.
Like all watches from
Jaermann & Stübi, the
new timepiece has an
A10-2 calibre automatic
movement,
visible through
the glass back
and protected
by a shock
absorber in a 44
mm stainless steel
case. (sz)
St Andrews Links Collection.
Frédérique Constant recently
became the sponsor of the Carrera
Panamericana car rally, which the
brand commemorates with two renditions
of a new watch. Each of them is
limited to 1,888 pieces, representing
the year the rally was founded. They
contain a new, in-house movement,
the hand-wound FC-435 calibre. The
43 mm steel case has a silver-toned
dial that is engraved with the race
name and emblem. The two versions
are distinguished by markers in either
steel or pink gold. (cb) 1.0, B27
Frédérique Constant marks its sponsorship
with a limited edition.
Union Glashütte expands its
Noramis line with an elegant chronograph
in an attractive vintage style.
Its deep blue hands contrast with the
silver dial decorated with a sunray
pattern. Inside its 42 mm stainless
steel 316 L case, water resistant to
100 metres, ticks a refined automatic
movement outfitted with the brand’s
signature rotor. (sz) 1.0, C01
Noramis chronograph
from Union Glashütte.
Since their introduction 36 years
ago, Raymond Weil has enjoyed
a fast rise to success in the luxury
watch market. Distinguished
design, high quality standards
for very attractive prices and the
strong connection to the world
of arts and music are the pillars,
which the family company’s philosophy
is built on, and this is
reflected across the distinctive
collections.
BWDN: Accompanying its 35th
anniversary, Raymond Weil
launched a new advertising campaign
last year. What is it about?
Olivier Bernheim: Set on the
stage of Geneva’s legendary concert
hall, the ‘Victoria Hall,’ the
campaign revolves around what
Raymond Weil draws constant
inspiration from: music. Many
links exist between music and
luxury watchmaking: the precision
needed to achieve the highest
performance or the emotions produced
by works of art for example.
During the show, Raymond Weil
will release new visuals of this campaign:
the same magic environment
but with 2012 novelties and
new, bewitching points of view.
BWDN: In 2011, Raymond Weil
also celebrated the 20th anniversary
of one of their major collections,
the Parsifal, with several additions.
What debuts are you spotlighting
at BASELWORLD 2012?
Bernheim: This year, we are celebrating
several successful collec-
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Inspired by music
CEO Olivier Bernheim explains the influence of the arts for Raymond Weil
Co-Axial traveller
Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, with
the Co-Axial calibre 8605/8615,
is the first of Omega’s proprietary
movements to be equipped
with a GMT complication. Along
with the central hour, minute
and seconds hands, there is a
GMT hand, tipped with a red
arrow, on a 24-hour index. The
Co-Axial escapement in the
Omega calibres is used in conjunction
with a free-sprung balance,
which can be adjusted to
vary the rate by means of gold
regulating screws. The Co-Axial
escapement ensures the stability
of the rate, resulting in reduced
friction and less need for lubrication.
This model is also equipped
with a silicon balance spring.
The pattern of vertical lines on
the dial recalls the wooden decks
on luxury boats. Case options
include 18k red gold, stainless
steel or two-tone, in steel and red
gold, with a bracelet or leather
strap in black, brown or blue.
Hands and indices are covered in
Superluminova. The GMT hand
can also be used as a compass.
tions with creative variations and
new masterpieces. The emblematic
maestro collection is enhanced
with very elegant and finely crafted
pieces of horology, such as the
sublimely classic maestro Quantième
à Aiguille or the sophisticated
masterpiece maestro Phase
de Lune Semainier.
The freelancer collection is redesigned
while preserving its DNA:
with its revised parameters the
bold and innovating freelancer
Urban Black serves as a window
to the future of the collection
and is already considered as one
of our future best-sellers.
The the iconic nabucco collection
is enlarged with two novelties:
the powerful nabucco Cuore
Vivo, which is unveiling its heart
to the world; and the nabucco
Intenso, whose compacter format
(43 mm) will enable a few more
enthusiasts to join the highly
elite club of nabucco owners.
BWDN: The jasmine was a new
ladies in 2011. What is in store
for the aficionadas this year?
Bernheim: Women will surely
find the watch of their dreams in
the elegant and sparkling selection
of 2012 feminine watches.
Our jasmine is having a worldwide
success and new gorgeous
variations will contribute to it.
With a black mother-of-pearl dial,
engraved with a flower of beauty
and surrounded by diamonds set
in a rose gold case, the jasmine
Turandot’s splendour exudes
When the watch is held with its
hour hand pointed in the direction
of the sun and adjusted to
the same time on the 24-hour
display, it will indicate north in
the northern hemisphere. (cb)
■ 1.0, C01
The latest Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is a
GMT and a compass.
Olivier Bernheim, CEO Raymond Weil.
voluptuousness. Additionally,
the maestro Lady comes this year
with a brand new larger format
of 39.5 mm. The trendy but very
classy black or white mother-ofpearl
dials set with diamonds
and a full skin leather strap in
different colours will necessarily
appeal to choosy aficionadas.
Finally, the freelancer collection
is enhanced with Lady Sunshine,
a sparkle of light with its dial
decorated with pink gold hands
and indexes crowned with gems,
its sunray guilloché centre, and
its bezel set of diamonds. “Diamonds
are a girl’s best friend,”
sang Marilyn Monroe.
BWDN: What are your top goals
in 2012 and 2013?
Bernheim: My top goals consist
of following with the same suc-
The stage is set
Act 3 in the Histoire de Tourbillon
leaves no doubt as to the visionary
path taken by this collection,
which Harry Winston launched
in 2009. Proposed as a 20-piece
limited series, Histoire de Tourbillon
3 draws the eye deep into
the mesmerising meanders of its
rotating mechanisms, framed by
a case in white gold and Zalium,
a hard and ultra-light zirconium
alloy. Three tourbillons are in
action, each rotating at different
speeds to defy gravity. Two of
them are nested one inside the
other to rotate the fourth dimension
of time through the three
dimensions of space. In this biaxial
tourbillon one carriage rotates
every 40 seconds within a second
carriage going around
in 120 seconds on an
axis perpendicular to the
first. This ensures that the
vibrating balance moves
through every possible
plane in relation to the
field of gravity to average
out positional errors.
The third tourbillon car-
cess the extraordinary adventure
of the brand launched by my
father-in-law, Mr Raymond Weil.
Since its beginning, in 1976, the
brand triggered people’s talk with
its capacity to offer prestigious
watches with great technicity and
an outstanding aesthetic with
incomparable prices.
Raymond Weil also distinguishes
itself from others with its unique
musical and artistic universe, full
of emotions. Today more than
yesterday, it is precisely what consumers
are looking for; and in all
emerging countries, this demand
is booming. Raymond Weil is,
therefore, perfectly positioned to
answer this new demand.
BWDN: How does BASEL-
WORLD help you to achieve
these goals?
Bernheim: BASELWORLD is the
only place in the world where
you can meet in a few days thousands
of watch specialists from
the retail, wholesale and media
industries coming from all over
the world. The contacts are particularly
numerous with emerging
countries whose representatives
are coming in growing numbers.
This is a unique opportunity to
present Raymond Weil timepieces
in our own specific universe
and to communicate directly to
our visitors what is the essence of
the brand.
Interview by Sabine Zwettler ■
riage rotates a separate balance
on a single axis in the conventional
way, but at the relatively
high speed of one revolution
every 36 seconds. The hours
and minutes are shown on discs
rotating against their respective
markers, and the seconds on a
scale around the biaxial tourbillon.
Harry Winston shows off its
unique flair with gemstones by
using sapphires and citrines to
indicate the power reserve. (sz)
■ 1.1, A03
Harry Winston’s Histoire de Tourbillon 3
catches the eye with its exceptional structure.

FERNANDO ALONSO COLLECTION
Twice World Drivers’ Champion
Visit us in Hall of Desires. Hall 1.1. Stand C13

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Hall 1.1
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FAIRLAWN
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PAGE 13
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Perrelet takes off
New interpretations of the signature double rotor concept
This year, Perrelet has a host of
innovative designs that are sure
to be real attention grabbers. Its
much-loved double rotor concept
is now interpreted in a new
Peripheral Double Rotor timepiece
that offers contemporary
style and architectural form. In
this watch, the upper rotor is in
the form of a ring that rotates
above the movement, around the
periphery of the dial, appearing
behind the hour marker. In fact,
the hour markers form arches
that connects the central dial
of the watch to the outer bezel
ring — offering depth and dimension.
The lower rotor features
its own specific deign with an
open-worked ‘P’ for Perrelet —
visible from the case back. The
twin rotors wind the new Calibre
P-341, a proprietary movement
that offers hours, minutes, seconds
and date function at 6:00,
and are decorated with a Côtes
de Genève motif. The presentation
comes together in a new
cushion shaped case. The 42 mm
case is offered in stainless steel,
DLC coated steel, or rose gold,
available with several three-level
dial versions.
Adam Gurian, president of the
Timex Business Unit, which
includes the iconic Timex, Timex
Ironman, Nautica and Marc
Ecko watches, discusses plans for
2012.
BWDN: How was 2011 for the
Timex Business Unit?
Adam Gurian: Business was brisk.
New collections in our vintageinspired
Timex Originals series
and new watches with our proprietary
Timex Intelligent Quartz
technology propelled business
in mass and mid-tier retailers.
In 2012, for the Timex brand,
our focus is to grow distribution
in mid-tier retailers as well as
department stores worldwide.
BWDN: In 2011, Timex unveiled
Intelligent Quartz SL, with its
innovative patented movement.
How’s it doing?
Gurian: Intelligent Quartz (IQ)
is helping us build business at
retailers like Nordstrom and
Amazon.com. Since the Fall
2011 launch, IQ watches have
resonated with our male customers.
We’re building on this with
the new Timex Adventure Series
Depth Gauge with IQ Technology,
using microprocessors to
power an internal pressure sensor
Perrelet’s debuts are inspired by its history.
This year, too, the brand rolls
out the Turbine XL Gold watch
with chic design. Heretofore Perrelet
has capitalized on its ability
to offer incredibly creative
Turbine watches — including one
with the colours of the American
flag and one with a poker
motif. Essentially, the Turbine
watch features a lower dial with
a stationary motif, and an upper
dial that is actually the top rotor
— made of slanted blades that
move and rotate with the moves
of the wearer — exposing alterna-
A new year of growth
Intelligent Quartz, fitness, and heritage propel Timex
Adam Gurian, president Timex Business Unit.
that registers depths to 60 metres
and is calibrated for sea water.
We expect it to be a hit in the
U.S. and internationally.
BWDN: A key growth area for
Timex is fitness. What’s new
there?
Gurian: We continue to pioneer
new technologies for athletes and
consumers interested in wellness.
In 2012, we launch watches with
GPS-enabled training functions,
our TapScreen technology, and
heart, walking, and running sensors.
They include the Timex
Ironman Run Trainer; Timex
Cycle Trainer 2.0, with a GPSenabled
bike computer to track
speed, distance, heart rate, eleva-
The new Turbine XL Gold is a boldly provocative watch with a 50 mm case in rose gold.
tive glimpses of the dial beneath.
Perrelet offers such wonderful
selections of dials and motifs for
men and women, including the
aforementioned pieces, but also
diamond-adorned designs in colours
or motifs that harmoniously
and intriguingly come together
to tell their own story.
The new Turbine XL Gold watch
is a bold 50 mm case with blades
carved in solid rose gold. As
soon as it starts to move, the dial
is transfigured — exposing not
only the gold blades, but also the
tion, and routes; and Timex All
Day Tracker watch, with a sensor
that tracks steps taken, distance
travelled, and calories burned.
BWDN: What else is new for
Timex?
Gurian: Our limited edition
Union Jack collection of sport
and style watches, celebrating the
2012 London Olympics. They’ll
be sold exclusively in the U.K.
BWDN: What’s Ecko showing at
BASELWORLD?
Gurian: Most Ecko Timepieces
collections at Basel use new and
revolutionary material combinations.
From fusions of translucent
acrylic and stainless steel to
ceramic and enamel, the assorted
materials in Ecko watches parallel
our consumers’ diverse, eclectic
lifestyle.
BWDN: How is Ecko using social
media?
Gurian: In 2011, Ecko Timepieces
launched its social media
presence with a Facebook campaign
called ‘Indie For Life,’ targeting
men 18-24 years old. It
had custom content, live stream
video, polls, sweepstakes, blogger
profiles, and high-profile personalities.
It created a forum for new
black lacquer background. The
watch dial features an inner bezel
ring bearing black and alternating
gold blocks with black Arabic
numerals showing through. The
hands and hour markers are in
red and white to offer strong
contrast and ensure readability.
The Turbine XL Gold houses the
self-winding P-181 Double Rotor
movement that is naturally visible
through the sapphire case
back. The watch is created in a
limited edition of just 77 pieces.
(rn) ■
and existing fans to learn about
Ecko Timepieces and share ideas
on being ‘indie’ (independent).
BWDN: Nautica Watches recently
entered China and India.
What’s next?
Gurian: Asia is a huge opportunity
for Nautica Watches. We’ll
substantially increase doors in
China this year through Nautica
Brand Boutiques and Shop in
Shops. There will also be more
Nautica Watch presence and sizeable
growth in Indonesia, Singapore,
Malaysia and Hong Kong.
BWDN: What’s new here in Basel
in terms of Nautica Watches?
Gurian: Colour remains a key
focus. You’ll see amazing new
sport styles here with signature
bold colour straps in assorted
materials for men and women.
BWDN: How does BASEL-
WORLD affect your brands?
Gurian: It’s the pre-eminent
event for them to launch watches
to the global watch community.
We look forward to showing
retailers and media the breadth
and depth of the Timex Business
Unit’s brands.
Interview: William G. Shuster ■
WATCHES
■ NEWS.TRENDS
The initials DS – standing for Double
Security – associated with the
Certina brand for decades, have
contributed to its international renown
and continue to form the basis of its
new creations. The DS 1 Automatique
is clearly heir to this noble tradition.
The 39 mm case is highlighted by
the contrasts between polished and
brushed surfaces creating a retro yet
chic effect. The textured central disc
gives the dial a sporty, modern look,
while a large slightly bevelled chapter
ring is graced with Roman numerals
in a more classic spirit. As the
model’s name suggests, it features an
automatic movement. (sz) 1.0, C01
Classical and sporty: Certina DS 1
Automatique.
Hamilton, celebrating its 120th
anniversary in 2012, introduces a
timepiece, which draws inspiration
from the brand’s strong heritage in
aviation. The Khaki X-Patrol features
a bezel to calculate distance, volume
and weight units. The picture-book
pilot’s watch takes off with an automatic
movement ticking inside a 42
mm stainless steel case, which is
watertight to 100 m. (sz) 1.0, C01
The Khaki X-Patrol features a bezel to
calculate distance, volume and weight units.
Seiko’s limited edition Ananta
Kumadori Chronograph is inspired by
the vivid make-up of Japan’s Kabuki
actors. The dial of each automatic
42.8 mm watch is hand-painted with
jet-black lacquer and lacquered red
inner rings, for a dramatic look like
Kumadori. It uses Seiko’s 8R28 calibre,
with a column wheel and vertical
clutch system for precise chronograph
operation, and Seiko’s three-pointed
hammer for synchronization of the
hands’ fly-back. The stainless steel
watch has a hard black coating, seethrough
back and sapphire crystal
with Seiko’s anti-reflective Super-Clear
Coating. (wgs) 1.0, A27
Ananta Kumadori Chronograph.

PAGE 15
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
“A great perspective”
Leonhard Schweiger gives BWDN an update on Roamer
Roamer has been a leading Swiss
watchmaker for over a century.
It produces classical modern
timepieces and the multifunctional
Trekk Master designed for
outdoor adventures. Leonhard
Schweiger, Head of Sales, tells
BWDN about the brand’s DNA
and future plans.
BWDN: Roamer draws on almost
125 years of watchmaking history.
How important is that legacy
for the current collection?
Leonhard Schweiger: History, or
rather heritage, is a very important
element when it comes
to creating a collection for a
traditional Swiss-made brand
like Roamer. We are somehow
inspired by the past, which we
then transform into a contemporary
product language. We create
an emotional tension in our
product language by melting the
best of the past with the best
or the present − for the benefit
of our customers, who appreciate
our range and especially the
excellent value to price ratio.
BWDN: In 2009, Swiss Watch
Group acquired 50 percent of
Roamer. How has the brand been
developing since then?
Leonhard Schweiger, Head of Sales at Roamer.
Schweiger: When we committed
ourselves to Roamer, we had one
clear goal in mind: “Do the right
things at the right moment”! Our
primary focus was to develop an
attractive product range in terms
of assortment and price points.
Thereafter, we concentrated our
efforts towards marketing and
organisation. With our claim of
‘Quality Time’, which we have
re-activated, we express how valuable
time is. And valuable time
should best be spent with a reliable
product like Roamer. In terms
of organisation we have added
strong professionals from the
watch industry, who know the
markets and are oriented towards
customer needs.
And now we are starting to
earn the fruits of these investments.
Roamer has shown great
growth rates in different markets
− markets where the brand has
already been present as well as
new markets. The perspective for
the future looks great. Today,
Roamer is one of the strong pillars
within our group.
BWDN: How was business in
2011 and what do you expect for
2012?
Schweiger: Roamer grew at a high
double-digit rate. For 2012, we
have planned for similar rates,
and we are extremely confident
that we have all instruments in
place to achieve these goals.
BWDN: Roamer has a very classical
DNA, but with the Trekk
Master, the brand has been showing
off its sporty side. What are
some major debuts at the show?
Schweiger: Among the different
novelties Roamer is going to
Marvin plays with shape
Just in time for spring, boys meet girls to share a cool unisex watch
This brand was originally founded
in 1850 by brothers Marc
and Emmanuel Didisheim in St.
Imier. Named for one of the
Didisheim’s American retail partners,
it survived in the hands of
its founding family for four generations
and garnered an excellent
reputation, particularly for
its movements. Like so many
other Swiss companies, it fell
victim to the quartz crisis in
the 1970s after joining Manufacture
Suisse Réunie (M.S.R.) along
with several other reputable Swiss
brands.
Malton 160 Rectangular Flying Hour.
“When we were considering
launching our own brand, we
came across Marvin projects,
among others, and we were
immediately seduced by it,”
explains Cécile Maye, co-founder
of the brand’s modern incarnation.
“Marvin is a beautiful
and timeless brand with very
strong DNA and we could see its
huge potential. Marvin’s history
is just unbelievable, its products
and communication have always
been very modern throughout.
Inspired by the past, we have
been able to create a contemporary
Marvin for the new millennium
that is dynamic in today’s
world.”
In 2004, the brand with the compact
English-language name was
resuscitated by a group of private
investors headed up by Maye,
one of the few female CEOs in
the watch industry. Maye’s focus
remains on the best possible
quality at surprisingly affordable
prices. Marvin only uses Swiss
made mechanical and quartz
movements to power these surprisingly
stylish and hip watches.
Perfectly fitting within these
ideals, Marvin introduces a funky
idea for a unisex watch that can
Malton 160 Duo Boys Meet Girls.
be just the right thing for a ‘girl’s’
wrist or a ‘boy’s’ depending on
the colour scheme. The new line
called Boys Meet Girls is based
on the Malton 160 model with
a cushion-shaped stainless steel
case, lending it just that pinch of
retro chic so prevalent and fashionable
today.
The Malton 160 Rectangular
Flying Hour model represents a
tribute to historical partnerships
with the prestigious airlines: in
1955, Marvin became the official
watch of KLM Royal Dutch
Airline’s entire fleet. Pilots from
the Netherlands wore the ‘Fly-
present, there are two lines which
stand out. One is the Ceraline
Passion, an exciting range made
out of high-tech ceramic, based
on an innovative construction.
The second one is the Rockshell
Mark III. This automatic
watch was originally launched
with great success in the 1970s.
At BASELWORLD, you will discover
the contemporary interpretation
of this model.
BWDN: How is BASELWORLD
affecting your business?
Schweiger: It is a great showcase
for brands which already have
a strong network as well as for
newcomers. BASELWORLD for
Roamer means showcasing the
novelties, reviewing first quarter
business with our partners, getting
in touch with new potential
partners and meeting media
representatives. And it’s a place
where we say “Thank you!” to
our current partners, because
without their commitment and
belief in our strategy over the
past three years, we would not
have written such a successful
chapter in the Roamer history
book.
Interview by Sabine Zwettler ■
Marvin is a fine Swiss brand founded in 1850.
ing Dutchman’ model specially
created for them by the Swiss
company. Marvin subsequently
undertook a collaboration with
Air France. This new Flying Hour
model naturally flows from the
Jumping Hour model originally
launched in the 1970s, and even
winks at the Passing Hour model
introduced in 2008. Two superimposed
subdials set against a
dynamic architectural background
are framed by a finely
sculpted stainless steel case. This
eminently legible quartz-powered
timepiece is available in two versions.
(ed) ■ 4.1, B13
WATCHES
■ NEWS.TRENDS
Originally launched 1997, Balmain’s
Opera Round is back in the spotlight
at this year’s show. Its round stainless
steel 316L or PVD case, which is
inspired by a theatre auditorium, is
dressed up with 60 Wesselton diamonds.
The Opera Round is available
with a choice of three different dials:
in silver with an arabesque motif, in
white mother-of-pearl or in black. (sz)
1.0, C01
Balmain Opera Round.
The glamorous new version of the
Gucci Twirl cuff watch glows with
gold leather and a yellow-coloured
PVD case and clasp. The dial, in a
harmonious shade of light brown, displays
a sun-brushed effect. Designed
by Gucci creative director Frida
Giannini, the Twirl features a unique
rotating case, which can be flipped
to hide the dial, giving it the look of
a bangle. Signature detailing includes
the Gucci logo or interlocking Gs
applied to the leather, caseback and
dial. (cb) 1.0, A15
Gucci Twirl cuff.
After launching its first collection of
men’s jewellery and accessories in
2010, Swarovski presents a collection
of watches entirely for men at
this year’s show. The Piazza Grande
incorporates urban forms influenced
by contemporary architecture and
debuts in a 42 mm diameter rosegold
PVD case. Within the classic
ring of the watch dial, the rose-gold
hand-applied Swan Logo mark takes
its place at the top of the dial. Each
hour marker carries more than one
crystal, except at 12 o’clock. The
hand-applied index markers are set
off by a discreet Jet Hematite crystal
at each hour marker, and punctuated
at six o’clock with an indicator that
displays the date. The crown is also
created in ceramic and features 24
facets. The Piazza Grande, which is
driven by a quartz movement, is
available with different dial options.
(sz) 1.0, B25
Swarovski Piazza Grande.

Via Montenapoleone, 6 - Milano
MARCH 8 - 15, 2012 Hall 2.2 - Booth F75

PAGE 17
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Gc and Guess keep growing
Cindy Livingston on ‘Smart Luxury’ and bold, adventurous style
Cindy Livingston is President
and CEO of Sequel, a Timex
Group Company. The Sequel
brands Guess and Gc are distributed
in over 70 countries around
the world. Guess is sold in 12,000
doors worldwide and Gc in 5,000.
BWDN: How was 2011 for Guess
and Gc?
Cindy Livingston: Sequel − Guess
and Gc − continues to grow year on
year, which underlines the importance
that our customers place
on the fashionable nature of our
timepieces and the need to always
keep up with the latest trends. Our
growth for Guess in emerging markets
will help solidify our growth
for several years to come, and Gc
continues to be buoyant on the
continuing upward trend of Swiss
Made watches, as well as benefitting
from its ‘Smart Luxury’ positioning
− an accessible dream, or
luxury ‘pick-me-up’, even during a
time of global economic morosity.
BWDN: Can you elaborate on
what ‘Smart Luxury’ means?
Livingston: It is the very essence
of our Swiss Made brand, Gc.
It is the smart combination of
the highest level of Swiss quality
standards, timeless fashion and
expressive design, all at a surprisingly
accessible price point. Fur-
This year, the fashion watch
brands are taking a closer look at
men and pulling out all the stops
− offering classic designs, retroinspired
pieces and some revved
up sporty looks. For women, colourfully
chic styles and alluring
glitz are all the rage.
With men at centre stage this
year for a host of fashion watch
Cindy Livingston, President and CEO of Sequel AG.
thermore, Gc offers our informed
and fashion-savvy clientele timepieces
that meet their exacting
standards for detail, in which they
can find a true expression of their
lifestyle. It is this very personal yet
global notion of ‘Smart Luxury’
and self-expression that Gc is trying
to convey through its communication,
due to the fact that
really everybody can experience
such moments. Currently, the
brand is touring the world with
a photographic campaign called
‘Moments of Smart Luxury,’ featuring
such moments of national
rising personalities who embody
the DNA of the brand.
BWDN: Do you have some new
products to reflect that motto?
Livingston: To create more ‘Smart
Luxury’ moments this year, Gc is
offering new watches in striking
designs for men and women in line
with the latest trends. For ladies,
Gc is presenting a matte ceramic
timepiece, the XL-S Glam Matte.
For men, a new sporty watch line
under the Gc-3 AquaSport Colour
Boost title pays homage to the
Olympic spirit with its use of five
bright colour accents. However,
the highlight will be two limitededition
mechanical timepieces −
one for men and one for ladies −
to celebrate the 15th anniversary
Sophisticated timing
Colour, glamour and chic appeal are the buzzwords in fashion at BASELWORLD 2012
Ice-Watch Ice-Alu.
brands, sophisticated retro styles
rule. Additionally, detail-oriented
pieces recalling the auto racing
industry are unveiled to appeal to
the urban chic man.
Lacoste unveils highfunctionchronographs
with
sporty looks
to appeal to
the trendy man
on the go. These
new chronographs
are all about readability.
In fact, they feature
colour-coordinated dials
and straps with big oversized
dots as numerals for unmistaken
time telling.
At Gc, retro and sporty appeal
combine in some important new
collections for men. One series is
the Gc-3 AquaSport with Olympic
spirit. The first Gc series
with a water resistance up to 300
metres (30 ATM), this line combines
bold watchmaking design,
Swiss Made precision and the
latest fashionable all black PVD
case and milled black dial, highlighted
by bright colour accents.
This versatile and robust line
comes in five different executions
with tachymeter rings,
numerals and indices in blue,
yellow, white, green and red for
distinctly sporty appeal.
The vintage look is also all the
rage this year, as many brands
offer a classic sophistication. Kenneth
Cole is releasing an alluring
and mysterious looking all black
skeletonized watch for men this
year in its Automatic Collection.
The watch features
a black PVD case, black
inner chapter ring, black
woven strap and an
all steel skeletonized
movement showing
though the centre
of the dial. For
women, glimmer
and glitz,
along with function
and versatility
is all the rage.
Colour also plays
a huge role with
summer around the
corner and the colours
of this season are bold
and bright. Brands such
as Tendence, Nautica,
of the brand. The ladies’ mechanical
watch marks a new milestone
for the brand, as it will be its first
mechanical timepiece for ladies
ever.
BWDN: What are the highlights
from Guess this year?
Livingston: The Fearless collection
for fall 2012. Animal print
is like a second skin to our Guess
Girl, and this season’s product is
giving her a look that will unleash
her inhibitions. In showcasing
both warm and cool tones, we
celebrate the call to the wild with
gold/bronze leopard and the sleek
seduction of gunmetal/silver and
snow leopard. We have a unique
plating process, specially designed
for Guess Watches, that highlights
the bold metallic accents in these
styles. We have bold new introductions
for our ladies’ fashion
sport category. Our men’s sport
category is a mixture of high
functionality with edgy European
design. The signature sport piece
this fall has a bold dose of style
and colour. Special attention has
been made on the details of this
watch with an open-dial design
that gives the look of a complicated
movement, as seen in many
higher end brands.
Interview by Carol Besler ■
Ritmo Mundo and Ice-Watch are
unveiling huge colour selections.
In fact, Ice-Watch is releasing its
new Ice-Alu timepieces − crafted
completely in iridescent aluminum.
The collection of shimmering,
light-weight aluminum
timepieces rand from charcoal
to blue, purple, turquoise, pink,
and even gold. There are eight
chic colours in the unisex styles
− all water resistant to
10 ATM.
Similarly, over at Tendence,
the brand is
unveiling its colourful
G-47 watch, with a 47
mm case. While that
sounds large, in the
stunning pink and
pale blue colours, it
is simply alluring.
The watch houses a
Miyota movement
and offers dual time
function. Each watch
features Tendence’s signature
3-D numerals on
the dial. (rn) ■
Kenneth Cole’s latest addition to the
Automatic line.
WATCHES
■ NEWS.TRENDS
BASELWORLD 2012 will see the
advent of a new ladies’ watch from
Grovana scintillating with 28 zirconias
on the bezel. The elegantly
curved stainless steel 316 L bracelet
forms a contrast to the pure design of
the dial. A quartz movement ensures
precise timeeping inside the debutant.
The Grovana ladies’ is available
with a silver or black dial. (sz) 1.1, B15
New ladies’ watch from Grovana.
With a sleek, simple design and a
vivid colour range, the new Nixon
Quad perfectly expresses the DNA
of the young, Californian based lifestyle
brand. The collection of classical
three-hands debuts in a 100 metre
water resistant, stainless steel case
with a hardened mineral crystal and
an enamel fill crown. An eye catcher
are the nylon webbing bands in different
styles. The 39 mm models are
driven by a Japanese quartz movement.
(sz) 1.1, B71
A symmetrical patterned dial and three hands
– the beauty recipe of the Quad is simple.
Quantum Watch − a brand
of the Turkish Timeart company −
debuts a notably sporty model in its
Adrenaline line at this year’s BASEL-
WORLD. The quartz chronograph,
water-tight to 100 metres, features
a 24-hour indication and a date. The
sporty appeal is further enhanced
by a tachymeter bezel designed for
measuring distances. Measuring 45
mm in diameter, the Adrenaline is
available in different case and strap
options. (sz) 5.0, D53
As its name suggests, the Adrenaline line
is designed for men who have a hankering
for adventures.

WATCHES | PALACE PAGE 18
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Focused on consistent growth
Morellato & Sector expects new opportunities in 2012
Massimo Carraro, CEO and
president of the global watch
and jewellery group Morellato &
Sector (M&S), tells BWDN why
2012 will be a year of growth
and highlights some of its big
BASELWORLD debuts.
BWDN: Mr. Carraro, how was
business in 2011, and what do
you expect in 2012?
Massimo Carraro: Morellato &
Sector ended 2011 with 8%
growth over 2011. That’s a pretty
good result, built entirely on foreign
markets, particularly those
outside Europe — Asia Pacific,
the Middle East, and the Americas.
In 2012, I expect a further
decrease in the national economies
in southern European markets,
and we’ll be focused even
more on consistent growth on a
global scale.
We’ve planned for 2012 to be a
year of growth. Of course, growth
rates will be lower than they
could be when the Euro area
overcomes the current difficult
stage. But certainly, we’re not
limiting our investments. It is in
times of crisis that there are the
best growth opportunities.
BWDN: M&S has significant
investments in India and China
in its watch and retail operations.
How is business there?
Carraro: India and China are giving
even more important contributions
to the development of our
Group. We create our new collections
thinking also of these markets.
BWDN: Where do you see the
best opportunities and/or growth
for M&S brands in 2012?
Carraro: Morellato & Sector’s
turnover is divided almost equally
between watches and jewellery.
In 2012, I see the greatest growth
opportunities in jewellery, perhaps
because in recent years we’ve
grown more in the watch field.
The markets where we expect the
best performances in both watches
and jewellery remain Greater
China, Asia Pacific, Middle East
and South America.
BWDN: What is M&S debuting
in jewellery at BASELWORLD?
Carraro: Morellato jewellery is
presenting two beautiful collections
— Din Don and Volare —
both in the best Italian tradition
in jewellery.
Massimo Carraro, CEO and president of Morellato & Sector.
BWDN: M&S has a comprehensive
portfolio of watch brands.
What are some of their big debuts
here?
Carraro: They include Morellato
Colours, with interchangeable
bezel colours; the Sector Mountain
Master, with the new touch
movement, developed with exclu-
sive touch and scroll Sector technology;
and the Cruiser collection
for the 150-year-old Philip
Watch brand, elegant and sporty
in the best Swiss-Made tradition.
We’re also launching two new
watch brands: Galliano, which
has British style and develops the
existing John Galliano collec-
The art of chiming the time
A pioneering spirit gets reborn with a unique tourbillon minute repeater
Peter Speake-Marin is one of the most talented
contemporary watchmakers.
This past fall Speake-Marin made
the move from ‘independent
watchmaker’ to ‘boutique brand’.
To celebrate the unofficial move,
founder Peter Speake-Marin presented
a timepiece that honours
fans and aficionados of the maker
and simultaneously bares a slice of
his own soul. As Speake-Marin has
thus far specialized in timepieces
for collectors that have cost
upwards of 50,000 Swiss francs and
produced no more than 200 pieces
per year, they have been decidedly
inaccessible for the average watch
consumer. The likable A.H.C.I.
member has amassed quite a following
over the years, however.
The Spirit Pioneer is therefore a
68-piece limited edition that retails
for ‘only’ 9,200 Swiss francs, making
it at least accessible for fans of
the brand and the watchmaker.
This aviation-inspired timepiece is
housed in a typical 38 mm stainless
steel cases from the Piccadilly
line. The case isn’t the only element
taken from previous Speake-
Marin watches: the hands are also
the same shape as those on the
experienced watchmaker’s original
Foundation Watch. Turning the
watch over, one finds Speake-
Marin’s typical rotor winding automatic
Calibre FW2012.
“Spirit is inspired by a timepiece
I bought fifteen years ago when
I was restoring antique pieces in
Piccadilly,” the English watchmaker
working in Switzerland explains.
“It was an authentic military watch
from the first half of the twentieth
century that I restored in my own
time and wore regularly as my personal
timekeeper.”
Debuting here at BASELWORLD
is a decidedly more expensive and
complicated timepiece: the Renaissance
Tourbillon Minute Repeater.
This timepiece, too, is the harbin-
ger of a new era: Speake-Marin is
using this grande complication to
embark on his own intellectual
journey of rediscovery to harness
the classical elements of his eponymous
brand and reinterpret them
to extraordinary effect. This timepiece
unites the quintessential
Speake-Marin qualities — many of
which go right back to the previously
mentioned Foundation
Watch, the very first timepiece to
bear Speake-Marin’s name.
The 60-second tourbillon found at
5 o’clock provides aesthetic as well
as technical benefits as it makes its
revolutions, catching the light and
the eye and indicating the seconds
with a hand on the cage. Precision
is also ensured thanks to an isochronism-improving,
free-sprung
balance and a lightweight, energyefficient
silicon escape wheel and
pallet lever.
The minute repeater, activated by a
slide on the case band at 9 o’clock,
chimes the hours, quarter hours
and minutes. “I wanted to have a
tourbillon both because my Foundation
Watch features one and
tions, and Maserati, with elegance,
tradition, and Italian style.
BWDN: Sector in 2011 launched
the Adventure line, its first solarpowered
watches. How is it
doing?
Carraro: Solar technology
remains important for us and we
continue to develop it: Sector
Adventure is for us a big successful
product.
BWDN: The London Summer
Olympics are this year. Is M&S
doing anything for it?
Carraro: We celebrate the London
Olympic Games with a dedicated
John Galliano watch, a
brand belonging to the British
world. It’s here at BASEL-
WORLD.
BWDN: What does BASEL-
WORLD mean to M&S?
Carraro: BASELWORLD is the
unique worldwide meeting place
for the watch world and an
important occasion that a global
group like Morellato & Sector
cannot miss.
Interview by William G. Shuster ■
because of the way it brings life to
the dial. A tourbillon emphasises
the watchmaker’s art,” he says.
“The ‘London-Geneva’ engraving
on Renaissance’s chiming mechanism
pays homage to London,
where my journey into repeaters
began, and continues in Geneva,
where the movement is built.”
In a 44 mm red gold case, each
Renaissance is unique thanks to
the hand engraving applied to the
expansive bridges of the movement
visible through the transparent
case back. (ed) ■ Palace P01
Each Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater is unique thanks to hand-engraving. Spirit Pioneer is a 38 mm aviation-style watch.

MADE WITH PARTS OF APOLLO 11 & MOON DUST www.romainjerome.ch BOOTH C05 - HALL 1.1
MOON DUST CHRONO

HALL 1.1 D47

TRENDS PAGE 22
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
“Modernity, minimalism and simplicity”
ck watch & jewelry stays true to its roots
Arlette-Elsa Emch, president ck watch & jewelry.
ck watch & jewelry celebrates its
15th anniversary at BASEL-
WORLD this year. We spoke with
Arlette-Elsa Emch about the
DNA aesthetics of the brand,
about affordable luxury, and how
the language of jewellery is translated
into watches and the other
way around.
BWDN: How has the brand ck
watch & jewelry stayed successful
through 15 years?
Garden Queen
From roses to daisies, designers are bringing lavish floral fantasies to life
1) 2)
3)
4)
5)
Photos: Swatch Group
Arlette-Elsa Emch: 15 years ago
we were one of the first fashion
watch brands, and rapidly we
became number one in the segment.
One of the reasons for this
success is the fact that we are a
Swiss made brand, which is rare in
the fashion watch industry. Of
course the competition has been
fierce over the years but by following
a strict line and remaining true
to our brand DNA we have maintained
consumer loyalty.
BWDN: What is the most important
thing for a fashion brand on
the market today?
Emch: Without a doubt we must
propose a recognizable style. Also
since 1997, we have always been
aware of the importance of staying
at the right price point. We strive
at offering affordable luxury —
without compromising quality.
BWDN: How do you remain minimal
and yet also renew yourself
every year?
6)
8) 9)
Emch: We always attend Calvin
Klein fashion shows in Milan and
New York to pick up on all the
new vibes and trends. Then of
course, we see what is being worn
on the street; we visit museums
and we are also inspired by new
architecture. We even sometimes
look into contemporary ballet. It
is important to be constantly in
tune with what is happening in
the world — be it socially, musically
and technologically. All this
sets the direction, but without
leaving aside initial concepts that
characterize us.
BWDN: What are the classics and
innovations from the brand this
year?
Emch: Actually this year, in July
we launch a new version of the ck
minimal; the model was originally
launched in 1997, and today it is a
classic. At BASELWORLD this
year, we also present the “ck agile”
which presents a revolutionary
take on the bangle watch. The case
1) La Reina | 2) Meissen | 3) de Grisogono | 4) Gay Freres | 5) Piazza Sempione | 6) Tamara Comolli | 7) Longchamp | 8) Victor Mayer | 9) DeWitt | 10) Masriera
7)
is held together with two delicately
polished cables.
BWDN: What are the brand aesthetics
defined from a key piece of
the 2012 collection?
Emch: The key piece, the ck
cogent, is very architectural and
technically very difficult to produce.
The watch features four visible
screws that hold up the crystal
like the pillars of a building. It was
a real challenge to make the glass
case both shock and water
resistant. This is also my
favourite piece in the new
collection; in fact, I love
all our men’s watches.
But I have seen the
cogent on both a man’s
and a woman’s wrist, and
it is truly a unisex model.
However, today women
have the freedom to wear a
diamond encrusted feminine
watch as well the option to wear a
masculine sports watch. These
days, they are also free to borrow
It would not be spring or summer
without fragrant flowers, blossoming
gardens and lush colours: and
now every woman can feel like a
true ‘Garden Queen’. Floral themes
are ever popular and a key theme in
both jewellery and fashion. Virtually
no other image is a better
expression of sensuality and femininity
as the striking flower form
— and this year it’s all about ‘flower
power’ from head to toe! Designers
can really let their imaginations run
wild because there are few restrictions
in terms of colours, forms
and materials used. Textiles and
precious metals serve as a creative
canvas: large individual flower
motifs and whole seas of flowers,
both exotic beauties and local flower
meadows, are depicted on flowing
fabrics and in platinum, gold,
silver and brightly coloured gemstones.
Other materials such as
quality porcelain and elaborate
enamel working also help bring
this floral diversity to life.
Blossoming splendour
There are also plenty of cheerful
and precious signs of spring and
summer at BASELWORLD 2012:
Even without making use of bright
colours, the ‘Flora’ range from Gay
Freres brings a touch of spring to
the hands, as the name implies.
The rings are bound to make any
heart blossom with their 750 white
gold and diamonds. Swiss watch
brand DeWitt also draws on nature
anything from the men’s range. As
for jewellery, ck brisk is very representative
of the brand aesthetics. It
is simple yet so daring. It can be
worn with jeans or with an evening
gown. I like its versatility.
Interview by Nina Hald ■
ck cogent is new this year.
to create its masterpiece ‘Golden
Afternoon’ watch, a successful
interpretation of femininity. The
face is a miniature mother-of-pearl
paradise and incorporates flowers
in a range of colours and sizes
along with 14 floating diamonds.
Two angel’s wings float above this
Garden of Eden and indicate the
hours and minutes. La Reina
applies a special patented laser
technique to make its delicate flower
earrings: the ‘Color de la vida’
collection comprises exquisite diamonds
which are set within a coloured
gemstone using a special
laser technique. The traditional
German manufacturer Victor Mayer
brings a dose of poetical luxury
to everyday life with the ‘Serenade’
collection. Inspiration is drawn
from nature in the form of primroses,
poppies and tulips which are
carefully and expertly shaped in
gold with genuine fired enamel
highlights. Colour gradients and
contrasts are added to reflect the
beauty and versatility of the flowers.
(cete) ■
10)

Hall 2.2 BootH a92
300 YEaRS oF GERMaN lUXURY

JEWELLERY PAGE 24
In Chinese culture, dragons stand for
success, harmony and luck – and the
same goes for the jewellery items
in the Círculos de Fuego (circles
of fire) collection from Carrera y
Carrera. This collection was first
presented five years ago and is now a
bestseller. The character of the dragon
is reflected in every item of jewellery
and defines the company’s jewellery
art. Gold, gemstones, Far Eastern
timelessness, dragons and fire. All of
these elements are blended together
to create the new Círculos de Fuego
collection. 2.2, B10
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
■ NEWS.TRENDS A show within the show
Two dragon heads form a ring.
The Parisian firm is presenting,
among other things, this bracelet in
blackened gold with white and black
diamonds. The pyramid design gives
the piece a martial look. 2.1, B32
Bracelet Spiky by Messika.
The Texan label Sutra Jewels is
renowned for its excellence in creating
a magnificent palette of fashionably
electric, fresh, innovative designs.
The collection derives its inspiration
from the clean cut motifs of the
Art Deco era and the luxuries of
the Edwardian era. The detailing of
each piece is intricate and reveals an
individual personality that transcends
the modern era. Sutra Jewels has
become a hit in Hollywood in the
short time since it was founded. Stars
like Catherine Zeta-Jones, Rihanna,
Jessica Simpson and Shakira are just
a few of the celebrities who have
walked the red carpet wearing Sutra
Jewels. (cete), 2.0, K40
Art Deco
inspired ring.
Top designers from the U.S. Centurion show make their debut
The Centurion Show has come to
BASELWORLD. Thirteen jewellery
designers who participated in
the U.S. show, held in Phoenix
in January, present their finest
creations for the first time at
BASELWORLD 2012. The pavilion
is located in the branded
jewellery hall 2.0, the show’s wellknown
Hall of Feelings. Howard
U.S. Pavilion in hall 2.0 presents 13 jewellery designers.
Pearl jewellery is an undisputed
classic. Yana Nesper has shaken
up the old-fashioned image of
these jewels of the sea and given
them a trendy touch with her
youthful pearl jewellery brand
of the same name. BWDN spoke
to her about the ideas she will
be presenting at BASELWORLD
2012.
BWDN: How can we make young
women enthusiastic about pearls?
Yana Nesper: It is possible to
make young women enthusiastic
by presenting pearls in a modern
way. Our must-have items,
our classic basic pearls in the
‘Freshwater Classics’ series, our
simple yet sophisticated earring
studs and chandeliers, our attractive
tension rings featuring single
pearls, our bracelets and our
pearl chains which also come in
a 100 cm opera length are very
attractive to young women. It is
often a case of love at first sight!
I think pearl jewellery should
be affordable and well-made,
i.e. modern and elegant. Young
women who favour the preppy
look of Ralph Lauren, Hilfiger or
Gant often like pearls. The retro
look gives a modern interpretation
to classic items. This is how
we see our retro pearl collections.
Retro now has a cult following.
Everyone can create their own
individual style using our cult
classics combined with innovative
ideas: progressive, elegant
and relaxed.
Hauben, CEO of the Centurion
Show, says the purpose of the
new USA Pavilion/Centurion
Collection at BASELWORLD is
to assist top jewellery designers in
creating an international platform
that will open doors to international
markets.
“The USA Pavilion-Centurion
Collection is representative of
dynamic, innovative and outstanding
handcrafted American and
international jewellery,” he says.
The exhibitors are Arman Sarkisyan,
Beverley K, Carelle New York,
Christopher Designs, Charles Garnier,
Edward Mirell, Penny Preville,
Rahaminov Diamonds, Judith Ripka,
Siera Jewelry, Sutra, Ungar &
Ungar and Wendy Yue. (cb) ■ 2.0
Judith Ripka introduces two new collections.
2.0, K30.
Retro trend for pearls
The jewels of the sea are perfect for classic designs and youthful fashions
Yana Nesper.
BWDN: Is pearl jewellery also a
question of good style?
Nesper: Pearls alone do not
define style and style does not
equate to pearls. We seek to
present pearls in a stylish and
contemporary manner in our
creations. Our fundamental idea
is to make pearl jewellery as
attractive as possible. But style is
not just about superficial things,
although this is a part of it.
The question of style holds a
certain secret, too. Style icons
and famous wearers of pearl
jewellery such as Coco Chanel,
Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly,
Jackie Kennedy and Brigitte Bardot
have shown this. Individual
style is about timeless elegance
and class paired with the special
personality of the wearer which is
composed of grace, charm, inner
Indian Summer collection.
beauty, naturalness and a certain
revolutionary spirit.
BWDN: What are the ingredients
for modern pearl jewellery as
offered by Yana Nesper?
Nesper: We give the classic and
elegant value of pearls a modern
twist. This is the fundamental
idea behind our retro pearl collection.
We focus on the pearls
and carefully incorporate trends
to make the pearls more youthful
and attractive. When it comes
to the leather straps, we tap into
the popular trendy theme of
‘leather in various colours’ as a
trendy variation to present our
‘main player’, South Sea pearls,
in a contemporary manner. Additional
new highlights include a
gemstone on an extra-long pearl
necklace, an individual large
Titanium pieces by Edward Mirell.
2.0, K26.
Unique handmade designs by Wendy Yue.
2.0, K40.
Urban Nights collection.
South Sea pearl on an oversized
white gold chain and an extralarge
Baroque South Sea pearl
on a sorbet-coloured satin band.
There is a jewellery item to suit
every lifestyle in our collection.
Interview by Axel Henselder ■

A Global Leader in the Design, Manufacture and Distribution of Timepieces.

JEWELLERY
■ NEWS.TRENDS
Crystal bracelet
by Baccarat.
Among its items,
P a r i s i a n - b a s e d
brand Baccarat is
presenting this Toi &
Moi bracelet from
the Les Sous-Bois
c o l l e c t i o n
with honeyc
o l o u r e d
crystal and
enamel. (ahe)
2.2, A01
Rings have always been a symbol of
tradition, beauty and status in society.
But engagement and memory rings
are much more than that. They are a
promise. With its fine diamond jewellery
creations, Bellaluce from the
German company Giloy
emphasises the special
significance of
true love, for example
in its Emilia collection.
(ahe)
2.1, K20
Sapphire ring by Gerhard Hahn.
Sultana earrings by Joïa.
Wedding and
engagement ring
by Bellaluce.
Gerhard Hahn Pearl is
renowned for being a specialist in
sophisticated cultured pearls as well
as for offering the highest levels of
quality and competence in gemstones.
Gerhard Hahn is presenting
a magnificent sapphire ring in 750
white gold in Basel. The natural 10.83
ct sapphire is surrounded by 14 diamonds
of 2.25 ct. (ahe) 3.0, F20
This jewellery manufacturer from
Lyon produces opulent jewellery featuring
the finest gemstones for big
occasions. The brand name Joïa is
derived from the French word for joy
because its refined items exude an
unbelievable sense of zest for life.
The Sultana earrings captivate the
senses and lead into a fairytale world
of 1001 Nights. They are made from
750 white gold and are decorated with
the finest diamonds. (ahe) 2.0, F50
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Jewellery from the Atelier
Prestigious new showcasing for the Pasquale Bruni label
Pasquale Bruni jewellery is produced
in Valenza Po and sold in
almost 300 dealerships around
the world. The Italian jeweller
wants to enhance his prestige by
having David Chipperfield design
his flagship stores. After boutiques
in Milan and Paris, a flagship
store opened in Moscow’s Tsum
shopping mall, followed by another
in Doha and, most recently, in
the centre of Rome.
BWDN: We can count jewellery
brands familiar to the general
public on the fingers of one
hand. Is it really impossible even
for a top-class jeweller like you to
achieve universal fame?
Pasquale Bruni: Let’s say it’s an
uphill climb for someone like
me. I started from scratch and
worked only because I was passionate
and found joy in creating.
But I have always wanted to
improve and today I still carry
on investing. We don’t fool ourselves
that we can achieve immediate
brand awareness of the kind
enjoyed by a label in its third or
even fourth generation, but more
and more people recognize us.
BWDN: Which are the right
investments for a prestigious
niche label like yours?
Bruni: First of all, let’s remember
that the jewel and its style have
Pasquale Bruni and his designing daughter Eugenia.
to be at the heart of everything.
To see just how creative we are,
look at things we did 20 years
ago: if they don’t look dated
then we have found the right
basis for building a brand image.
That has been our objective over
the last 15 years and to pursue it
today we’re developing the retail
channel.
BWDN: Do flagship stores play
a role?
Bruni: Yes. Not just for sales,
which are in large part through
our dealers, but mainly to grow
the prestige that a store with the
right location and interiors provides
for the brand.
BWDN: In Milan you are in Via
della Spiga, in Paris it is Place
Vendôme …
Bruni: We recently opened in
Doha with our local partners,
French emotion
The Comité Francéclat presents the latest jewellery trends
The Comité Francéclat (professional
committee for French
jewellery, watch, haute joaillerie,
metalware and tableware manufacturers)
represents 80 French
jewellery and watch brands. 28
jewellery and gemstone dealers
will be exhibiting their products
at BASELWORLD as part of the
committee.
The trends for 2012 reveal a contrast
of extremes, ranging from
XXL to XXS and from black and
white to colourful. Kenzo, part
of the GL Group, is presenting its
Hanaé collection, featuring compilations
of small bracelets decorated
with cornelian and amethyst
in addition to the Meiki range
which includes large cuff
bracelets. Lacoste too
is focusing on big
bracelets with
its Petit Piqué
bracelet which
is reminiscent
of the brand’s
polo shirts and
features the small
crocodile character
with the playful name
of Crodod’elle.
In terms of colours, violet and
yellow dominate the Baccarat
Sous-Bois collection with
its crystal on silver designs, the
Bellon Violeta collection which
features amethysts and 18 karat
gold and the Zig Zag collection
from Umane. The contrast of
black with a bright colour is also
a popular theme, as in the case of
André Benitah’s Divine rings in
black resin with brightly coloured
stones (citrine, blue topaz, prasiolite).
Sapphires are featured in
their traditional pure blue tones
at Emmanuel Piat, Waskoll and
Marcel Poncet as well as in a rainbow
effect at Georland and
at Garaude with its Jingle
necklace. Isabelle
Langlois favours
delicate stones
and on December we opened
our Rome boutique in Piazza
San Lorenzo in Lucina. It’s just
around the corner from Via Condotti
and it’s going to be the
new venue for luxury shopping
in Rome: Vuitton’s there as well.
BWDN: By managing your own
point of purchase, can you get a
better feel for consumer trends?
Bruni: Yes, it’s very useful for
feeling the market pulse. In this
respect, the boutiques scheduled
to open in London and New York
will be vital.
BWDN: While everyone else is
targeting China, you’re focusing
on the old capitals.
Bruni: The ‘Old World’ is in our
sights and we’d like to go back to
efficient distribution in Germanspeaking
countries too. But we’re
very keen to penetrate the Far
East and we’re negotiating with
potential business partners.
BWDN: Tell us two of the
things the visitor to your
stand mustn’t miss.
Bruni: Just two? Well,
the new arrivals in the
Mandala and Bon Ton
collections. But there’s
also our Atelier line of
limited edition jewellery
made by the great master
White gold ring by Waskoll.
designed to resemble a painting
in her Emotion rings whereas
Mathon draws inspiration from
a bouquet of lilacs in its ‘Lilas’
piece in soft pink or blue-violet
tones. Steel and silver jewellery
too incorporate plenty of colour
as in the case of XC38 which
features Murano beads and Pierre
Lannier who offers charms
in bright colours. Charms
are equally popular with
Prima Classe Jewel from
Ambre where they are
used in a long doublechain
sautoir necklace.
The wedding
theme is of particular
goldsmiths I insist work with
me, because they hand down the
Valenza goldsmithing tradition
to our youth.
BWDN: Your stand is in a context
of absolute prestige, but from
next year’s BASELWORLD on
you will be aiming even higher.
Bruni: And we want to celebrate
the show’s new layout by launching
a watch, the first in several
years, that we produce in partnership
with a Swiss company.
I promise it will be a unique item
in the history of watchmaking.
Interview by Roberto Chilleri ■
Rings from the Bon Ton collection, in rose gold
with diamonds, pink quartz,
amethyst and peridot.
PAGE 26
interest to Korloff which offers
a pretty diamond Voyageur wedding
ring and Marchak which is
launching its first bridal collection.
Floral themes are ever popular
and can be found in a variety
of forms: using resin (Bénitah),
diamonds and turquoise (Gay
Frères), mother-of-pearl (Kidou)
or zirconium oxide (Ted Lapidus).
Inspiration drawn from the
Art Nouveau is also evident, in
particular at Lalique which is
presenting an haute joaillerie collection
at BASELWORLD for
the first time. Cristofol Paris also
features a dragonfly on a sumptuous
necklace.
Other jewellerymakers focus on
Paris, the capital which makes
the whole world dream, such as
the French Kiss ring from
Philippe Tournaire
which incorporates a
vision of the Eiffel
Tower as the body of
the ring and Roure
with its Une Nuit à
Paris collection. (kb) ■
Petit Piqué cuff by Lacoste. Ceramic wedding ring by SFM.

INDEPENDENT LUXURY BRANDS WITH A USP.
Jaermann & Stübi invented the fi rst golf watch with
a mechanical complication which counts the strokes
during play and compares the score with the handicap.
This innovation made the brand the offi cial time piece
licensee of St Andrews Links, The Home of Golf.
www.jaermann-stuebi.com
Vulcain was founded in 1858 and is the inventor of
the alarm complication for wristwatches. This innovation
made the brand popular with American presidents
starting with Harry S. Truman, earning the
brand its reputation as “The Watch for Presidents”.
www.vulcain-watches.ch
BOOTH ON THE 3RD FLOOR OF HOTEL RAMADA PLAZA AT MESSEPLATZ (FAIRGROUNDS). FAIRGROUNDS TOWER.
FIFTY METERS FROM HALL 1 ACROSS THE SQUARE.
JAERMANN & STÜBI AND VULCAIN ARE BRANDS OF THE EXCELLENCE HOLDING AG.

montres
Watches
AMBRE 1.1 A51
CERRUTI 1881 1.1 A33
CERTUS PARIS 1.1 A63
CHRISTIAN LACROIX 1.1 A33
COBRA 5.0 A31
GO, GIRL ONLY 1.1 A63
GROUPE GL 2.1 A62
HECTOR H 1.1 A63
JEAN MARCEL 1.1 A63
KENZO 2.1 A62
KORLOFF 2.2 B60
LIP 1.1 A70
MGH 1.1 A70
MICHEL HERBELIN 1.1 B11
NAVITEC 5.1 A17
NINA RICCI 1.1 A33
PARIS FRANCE MONTRES 5.1 A17
PIERRE LANNIER 1.1 A61
FRANCE
H O R L O G E R I E , B I J O U T E R I E & J O A I L L E R I E
PRIMA CLASSE 1.1 A51
ROCHET 2.0 C01
SAINT HONORE PARIS 1.1 C11
SMB 1.1 A63
TED LAPIDUS 1.1 A33
THIERRY MUGLER 1.1 A33
THIRSTY WATCH 5.1 A17
PHILIPPE TOURNAIRE 2.0 F50
GROUPE TWC 1.1 A33
XC 38 2.1 A62
YEMA 1.1 A51
YONGER & BRESSON 1.1 A51
YONGER POUR ELLE 1.1 A51
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE 1.1 A51
ZUCCOLO ROCHET & C° 2.0 C01
Watches, Jewellery & High jewellery
mouvements & composants
Movements & components
ALBA / TOUVA 3.U B30
ISA FRANCE 5.0 A11
NERVINCA / NERVINOX 3.U B30
ROBUR 3.U B30
TENA / TENAX 3.U B30
TENA BUTTY 3.U B30
VERLUX 3.U B10
Bracelets pour montres
Watch bracelets
ZRC 2.0 C01
ZUCCOLO ROCHET & C° 2.0 C01
« FRANCE »
PRESS & INFORMATION
HALL 1.2 - STAND B 03
BUSINESS CENTER
(CLOSE TO THE PRESS CENTER)

BiJouterie Joaillerie
Jewellery, high jewellery
ALAIN ROURE 2.1 J20
AMBRE 1.1 A51
BACCARAT 2.2 A01
CERRUTI 1881 1.1 A33
CHUT…JE T'AIME 2.1 J20
COBRA 5.0 A31
EMASUR 2.0 H43
GARAUDE PARIS 3.1 K14
GAY FRERES 2.1 B72
GEORLAND 2.1 N51
GL PARIS 2.1 A62
GROUPE GL 2.1 A62
ISABELLE LANGLOIS 2.0 H43
KENZO 2.1 A62
KIDOU 2.1 B72
KORLOFF 2.2 B60
LACOSTE 2.1 A62
LALIQUE 2.2 H44
MADEMOISELLE EST PRECIEUSE 2.1 M40
MARCEL PONCET 3.1 G11
MESSIKA DESIGN 2.1 B32
NINA RICCI 2.1 A62
PACOMA 2.1 M40
PAUL & JOE 2.1 A62
PIERRE LANNIER 1.1 A61
PORCHET 3.0 E14
PRIMA CLASSE 1.1 A51
MARC PRINC 3.1 L02
RICHDIAM 3.1 L02
ROCHAS 1.1 A51
ROCHET 2.0 C01
ROURE 2.1 J20
SAINT HONORE PARIS 1.1 C11
SCHMITTGALL 2.1 M40
TED LAPIDUS 1.1 A33
THIERRY MUGLER 1.1 A33
GROUPE TWC 1.1 A33
WASKOLL 2.2 C80
XC 38 2.1 A62
YONGER & BRESSON 1.1 A51
ZUCCOLO ROCHET & C° 2.0 C01
pierres et perles
Gems & pearls
ALAIN BOITE 3.1 H11
GARAUDE PARIS 3.1 K14
MARCEL PONCET 3.1 G11
PIAT 3.1 C31
PORCHET 3.0 E14
MARC PRINC 3.1 L02
SCHMITTGALL 2.1 M40
Joaillerie de France
Hall 2.0 – stand F50
AXIOME
BELLON 1907
BELLON CREATEUR
CREATIONS ANDRE BENITAH
BERMUDES
CAPUCINES
CRISTOFOL PARIS
JOIA
LOUIS ELYSEE
MARCHAK
MATHON PARIS
MIMETUM
NOUVEAU STYLE
OTELINA
PARIS KOLLECTION
SFM JOAILLERIE
PHILIPPE TOURNAIRE
UMANE PARIS
Conception/Réalisation : Guillaume Léonardy - Crédit photo : Rodrigue Pidéry

JEWELLERY PAGE 30
Ring with green marble by Bulgari.
Oeuf Cadeau egg pendant by Fabergé.
Symphony in purple by de Grisogono.
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
■ NEWS.TRENDS A touch of class
The B.zero1 ring is one of Bulgari’s
best-known style icons. The ring is
now being presented in an original
new version which combines the
famous spiral form with an exquisite
and unusual material: marble. Rose
gold is paired with green, blue and
brown marble in three different versions.
The unique grain of the marble
makes every ring unique. (ahe) 4.0,
B01
Fabergé first became famous for its
artistic decorative eggs. The first egg
was produced on commission for Tsar
Alexander III who gave it to his wife
Marie Fedorovna in 1885 as a token
of his love. Inside the egg was a little
surprise – a small ruby pendant. The
newly designed artistic egg pendants
from Fabergé draw on this tradition.
The Oeuf Cadeau model, for example,
is made from 750 rose gold and
is set with diamonds and gemstones.
(ahe) 2.2, A20
For a graduated symphony in pink,
purple and lilac, head on over to the
de Grisogono stand. These earrings
made of white gold with 388
diamonds (total 14.17 carats), 140
pink sapphires (total 4.96 carats), 53
briolette-cut amethysts (total 39.19
carats), 42 briolette-cut pink quartz
(total 26.62 carats) and 12 briolettecut
pink sapphires (total 11.54 carats)
should be enough to make any lady
with a fondness for sweets fall in love.
(nh) 1.1, E03
Sophisticated elegance for the new Fope bracelet
A year ago we saw the launch
of Twin, the Novecento chain in
Silverfope. Now the Vicenza company
presents Flex’it Vendôme,
the prestigious new version of the
stretch bracelet that combines
enhanced ergonomic design with
the precious values of jewellery,
gold and diamonds. We talked to
Giulia Cazzola, marketing director
and great-granddaughter of
the company’s founder.
BWDN: Am I right in thinking
that this is the fourth evolution
of Flex’it in just a few years?
Giulia Cazzola: This stretch
chain is probably our most
important patent since the 1970s,
when the company invented the
Novecento chain. The original
round section has been replaced
with an oval design for Flex’it
Vendôme, and this makes it even
more comfortable and stylish.
A Vendôme bracelet can play a
significant part in looking chic
and sophisticated, especially in
the version with a diamond pavé
clasp. The stretching system stays
the same, however. It’s all inside
Nature is the most diverse and
timeless source of inspiration
in creating fascinating designs.
No wonder then that the animal
world’s lucky, fascinating,
crawling and flying representatives
are regaining popularity
among many jewellery manufacturers
and populating the display
cabinets at this year’s BASEL-
WORLD. Creatures from magical
underwater worlds, animals
with bright feathers and artistic
animal skin patterns are again
serving as inspiration for some
striking items of jewellery. Selected
combinations of coloured
gemstones, diamonds, pearls and
precious metals bring to life these
inhabitants of the animal world.
The sophisticated collections
create a suitable habitat for these
four and multi-legged creatures
and show off the more attractive
side of some otherwise unloved
species.
the links and is based on the use
of sturdy gold springs. The new
product is a perfect fit for our
philosophy: the customer can
invest in jewellery they will wear
a thousand times and for many
years, because it won’t go out of
fashion.
BWDN: Any more important
news apart from Vendôme?
Cazzola: Corporate policy
doesn’t go for big revolutions:
we take one step at a time in
the evolution of the product, as
befits a true classic. A perfect case
is the evolution of Flex’it Solo,
inspired by Maori, a line that
was very successful a few years
ago. The new version, stretch of
course, revives the idea of two
chains − white and yellow gold
− with a diamond pavé loop
that holds them together. Then
there’s Fizzy, the second Twin
jewellery collection in Silverfope
alloy, with chalcedonies, jades or
cornelians.
BWDN: Which are the best markets
for your company?
A symbol of wealth and luck: the spider. Ring by
Staurino Maison.
Giulia Cazzola, Fope’s marketing director.
Cazzola: Nearly a third of the
jewellery is bought in Italy, a lot
in Western European countries,
but mainly in the United States,
where we have a sales branch.
We have customers just about
worldwide.
BWDN: Does Fope have any
flagship stores?
Cazzola: They’re not part of
our strategy. I think the flagship
works mainly for a few brands
known by all consumers and who
are also able to offer a complete
range, men’s jewellery, accessories
… At the opposite extreme
they are also good for designer
jewellery because of its very select
consumers and limited number
of dealers. We’ve decided to hand
over full responsibility for customer
relations to the dealers,
even if we do support them with
joint initiatives and, above all,
with advertising campaigns.
BWDN: Evidently, conventional
strategies pay off.
Cazzola: They do for us, yes, even
though we are not that traditional
and we do have other projects. In
a couple of years we might take a
look at the e-commerce channel,
just with a few selected products
so we don’t overlap with store
business, which is our bedrock.
And we are watching how things
are evolving with social networks
like Twitter and Facebook, or on
YouTube. This is where consumers
swap information and it’s
becoming even more important
in the luxury goods market, too.
Interview by Roberto Chilleri ■
Beautiful butterfly and lucky spiders
Seahorses, piglets, and insects: manufacturers of fine jewellery present themselves as animal lovers
The Moresca collection from the
Italian manufacturer Staurino
Maison transforms the muchfeared
spider into an attractive
and symbolic creature: the spider
web cuff and ring set is the latest
addition to the collection.
The spider web ring winds its
way around the whole finger like
armour yet is flexible enough
to enable the natural movement
of the finger. Rose gold, white
and black diamonds, rubies and
rock crystals are woven together
in an intricate and astonishing
interplay of open and solid, lightweight
and bulky design. In this
way, the spider is granted the
honour it deserves: in some cultures,
spiders are lucky and are
a promise of wealth and good
business. Another exotic beauty
is presented by the Aspire label.
Here, a parrot finds the perfect
place for itself on a pendant
where it enjoys every movement
the wearer makes. The multicolour
effect features tsavorites,
black diamonds and pink sapphires
while the ring is made from
white diamonds. The butterfly
from the La Reina Collection
shows off its magnificent wings
and resembles the real one. Samir
Bhansali is the jewellery designer
and owner of La Reina. His work
features still life and sculpture, a
cornucopia of colours, textures
and motifs. In Bhansali’s world,
size matters. “Elaborate fashions
call for even more elaborate jewellery.
Simple designs need elaborate
jewellery to give the style
a punch,” he states. In order
to create his jewelled ideas, he
turned to alchemy transforming
titanium, a metal not ordinarily
associated with haute jewellery,
into a canvas for painting on.
As an ultra-lightweight material
which is virtually indestructible,
titanium can be sculpted into
enormous, elaborate pieces that
would otherwise be unwearable.
The Continuity collection from
Blacksand Genève also draws
its inspiration from the animal
and plant world and implements
this in a very unusual
way. The Koala
watch, which is
limited to 100
pieces, includes
a modified
calibre created
exclusively for
the brand with
a jump hour feature
and minutes
disc. The decoration
on the red gold case
features a koala in
cloisonné fired
enamel with subtleornamentation
comprising
80 diamonds.
(cete) ■
Cute cufflinks from de Grisogono. Butterfly made of titanium by La Reina.
Magical sea-
horse by Ponte
Vecchio.

JEWELLERY | DESIGN PAGE 32
■ NEWS.TRENDS
Furrer-Jacot wedding rings have
been impressing with their exceptional
designs and top quality since
1858. The rings from the Magiques
collection, for example, feature the
signature of designer Lucas Ruppli
who has already won numerous international
awards. Each ring is individually
produced for the customer in
Switzerland. Individual requirements
can therefore be incorporated. Furrer-
Jacot guarantees to supply each ring
within three weeks. (ahe) 2.2, B80
Wedding bands from the collection
Magiques by Furrer-Jacot.
Jörg Heinz has created another
masterpiece with its new True Companions
pendant collection. The company
draws on a goldsmithing skill of
the last centuries: a mysterious inner
life was created within the items of
jewellery which could only be viewed
with the aid of a clever mechanism.
And it’s the same here. A twist of
the pendant loop opens up crescentshaped
slits in the sphere with its
refined goldsmithing decoration to
reveal a glimpse of what is inside.
Some contain a large South Sea cultured
pearl, others a small polar bear
or cockatoo carved from a gemstone.
(ahe) 2.1, C32
True Companions pendant by Jörg Heinz.
Swarovski’s Swing, Sing and Shine
collection is a tribute to vintage styling
and an ode to the lights, camera and
action of the entertainment world – a
topic that has been intrinsically linked
to the company for decades. Set
against a backdrop of pastel colours,
bright balloons and floral impressions
associated with the flower and circle
symbols abound. The Raphaela line
features a gradation of crystals in red,
pink and violet, paired with iridescent
pearls and chaton spheres in pink,
red and orange known as Coral Kiss.
(nh) 1.0, B25
Ring by
Swarovski.
Victor Mayer has been exhibiting
on First Avenue at BASEL-
WORLD from the outset.
BWDN spoke to Dr. Marcus
Mohr, the owner of the Pforzheim-based
manufacturer, about
their presentation at this year’s
BASELWORLD and their strategies
for 2012.
BWDN: Why does the atmosphere
on the First Avenue suit your range
of offers so well?
Dr. Marcus Mohr: We feel really at
home in this hall. The brand environment
suits us really well. Here
there are only manufacturers who
are serious about achieving top
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
People want to be amazed
Victor Mayer is presenting refined goldsmithing at BASELWORLD 2012
Dr. Marcus Mohr, owner of Victor Mayer.
quality. The dealers expect to see a
suitable setting. And that is what
First Avenue offers. The high ceilings
and beautiful lounges create a
sophisticated atmosphere. That
makes it fun for the jewellers and
they feel welcome here. They also
want to be amazed. The impressive
presentation rubs off on the brands,
people and products. We only
present Fabergé watches and the
finest goldsmithing work from our
manufactory, Victor Mayer, here.
BWDN: The luxury goods markets
are primarily dominated by
the big names. What chance do
small and medium-sized manufacturers
have here?
Mohr: Our marketing opportunities
are linked to various aspects
which have nothing to do with
company size. One of them is
service. We can react to customer
requirements in a flexible, personal
and fast manner. We can
also develop new items with the
jewellers. There are no standard
programmes for a manufactory.
There is always a genuine small
company underneath with people
and workshops you can touch and
see. The brand often bears the
name of the company manager or
a descendant of the company
founder. People are buying the
jewellery almost directly from the
owner’s family. There is an actual
brand identity. And this is a real
rarity. Because you can guarantee
that small manufacturers do not
create mass-produced goods.
BWDN: How are the key sales
markets developing?
Mohr: There continues to be a
strong European market for Victor
Mayer products. Asia, the
Middle East and Eastern Europe
are also becoming stronger. And
there are signs of the luxury goods
market recovering in the USA. A
new luxury goods market for jewellery
is currently emerging in
China. In the past, only premium
watches sold much here. Another
trend is that more and more consumers
across the world are seeking
out ‘Made in Europe’ products.
This has long been the case
in Eastern Europe. The trend is
increasingly turning towards quality
in the Asian countries.
BWDN: What new items are you
presenting in Basel?
Mohr: The themes of colour and
coloured gemstones are big right
Flowers for spring and summer
It is the tested and tried classic in the jewellery world: blossoming rings will always be fashionable
The evolution of a classical theme
through time; whether a ‘free and
easy’ approach, a glamorous one or
set in a darker image, flower rings
reign supreme on the hands of the
well-manicured ladies around the
globe. The symbolic language of
abstract flowers suggested by nature
and mixed by creative contemporaries
allow for this most enduring
theme to constantly evolve with
fashionable attitudes as well as a
sense of taste that conveys modern
timelessness.
Stylized and structured
The flower rings of the 21st century
are very much conceived for the
women who are able to choose;
because the opportunities are infinite
when it comes to materials,
motifs and muses for this most
poetic category. Stylized yet structured,
the blossom rings are meant
for the daring women who select
sophisticated combinations of
necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and
rings, in order to express their own
personal mood.
An enduring icon of American
glamour, the Harry Winston Cluster
has been a defining part of the
Winston tradition for more than
six decades. Dating back to the
archives from the early 1940s, the
Bulgari
design draws references from the
sculptured geometry of flowers and
leaves, and the elegant fluidity with
which they take shape. Exploring
the interplay of different shaped
diamonds set at varying angles, the
pioneering motif helped to set the
stage for Winston’s signature style
and continues to inspire. In this
timeless spirit, Harry Winston has
introduced the Lily Cluster collection.
Exploring early Cluster drawings
from the archives, Winston
designers and master craftsmen
worked to reinterpret the iconic
motif through a unique, contemporary
perspective. Recalling the
Stephen Webster Harry Winston
refined shape of lilies in bloom,
Lily Cluster presents a charming
bouquet of everyday jewels, while
capturing the graceful movement
of blossoming petals. Crafted with
a subtle combination of round and
marquise shaped diamonds, the
delicate, yet dimensional design
allows for an exquisite expression
of a timeless style, no matter the
occasion or the hour.
Signature stones
Pure, transparent sapphires and
other colourful gemstones become
polychromic expressions of elegance
when assembled by the crea-
Ring Soiree: finest goldsmithing
work by Victor Mayer.
now. We always work with a lot of
coloured gemstones. Another one
of our strengths is to produce
refined enamelling work. We have
developed new colours which
reflect current fashion trends. Sorbet
colours will be very popular
this year. These are reminiscent of
half-frozen fruit juices and can stir
up your appetite! Beautiful rubellite
and tourmaline tap into this
trend. There is also a trend for
classic colours such as sapphire
blue, ruby red and emerald green.
We have developed electric blue
enamel to reflect the blue theme,
for example.
Interview by Axel Henselder ■
tive team of Bulgari. Natural palettes
are made up of colours and
stones which once assembled make
every single piece unique and
unrepeatable. Bulgari’s modern
and creative style is dictated by the
rhythms of nature which lead to a
mix of bold colour combinations.
The power flowers from the Italian
company are stylized, taking an
abstract idea of flowers as the pointof-departure
for the creations. The
colour combinations are expressions
of an almost nonchalant luxury
aesthetic that goes hand in
hand with our perception of ‘la
dolce vita’.
Finally, the fine jewellery collection
of Stephen Webster is a lot darker;
‘Razor Ribbon’ showcases dramatic
earrings, bold cocktail rings, statement
cuffs and necklaces. The flower
motif has been twisted into an
ultra feminine bow punctuated
with a sharpness to create a new
and iconic motif for the company.
To quote Stephen Webster: “Somewhere
in the back of my mind I
had kept the title of a TV series in
the early 80’s or late 70’s called
‘bouquet of barbed wire’. The
reason I held onto it was that it
contains the codes that we associate
with our brand: Beauty and
danger”. (nh) ■

10 ATM
Screwed caseback
Ice-Ramic case (PA+)
HALL 5 - BOOTH D31
CHANGE. YOU CAN.

TECHNIQUE
Concept Laser, Sisma and Progold
are showing how items of jewellery
can be made from pulverised
material using a laser-supported
melting process which is based on
CAD data. Concept Laser and
Progold have improved on the
devices they presented in 2011
and are now demonstrating how
these devices can be used with
new raw materials. Sisma is pre-
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Laser melting gains in popularity
Three companies demonstrate how individual items of jewellery can be developed
High precision for rings.
senting an item of this kind for
the very first time in Basel.
The fundamental principle is the
same for all of the companies.
A laser is used to melt the basic
material (a powder made from
various metals) based on pre-set
data from the CAD software.
A thin layer is pushed to the work
surface from the container with a
slider. The work surface is positioned
beneath the laser.
Once the layer is ready, this work
surface is moved downwards and
the slider applies a new layer of
powder. The laser melts this to
create another layer. The powder
application works in a similar way
to sintering. The material is not
pressed but rather melted. This
creates greater stability and flexibility.
Improved machines
Last year, Concept Laser presented
the first machine and now the
company offers the capability to
process yellow gold, silver and
white gold powders. Five machines
have already been sold in the jew-
ellery sector, says Stefan Richardt
of Concept Laser. It could have
been more but the fine powder
needed for the production was
not available in all countries last
year. The company is convinced
that it will find sales partners in
additional countries at BASEL-
WORLD. They are also in talks
with additional suppliers of the
basic source material, says Richardt.
Progold is presenting Selective
Laser Melting which was developed
in a partnership with Realizer,
a German expert in laser melting.
Both companies presented a
prototype in 2011 and then
further developed the Realizer
SLM 50 Desktop Machine. It enables
the production of items based
on different alloys for the production
of precious objects: gold,
silver, platinum, palladium, titanium
and steel. The roughness
has been eliminated: “We now
have a better understanding of
how the items should be supported
to achieve optimal results,”
says Damiano Zito, CEO of Pro-
Progold offers solution for various precious meetals.
gold. This year, he is at the trade
show to demonstrate the progress
which has been made in selective
laser melting processes. This will
revolutionise the world of jewellery-making,
he says. The Progold
stand features items of jewellery
in gold which have been produced
for Stilnovo, a firm which
produces high-end jewellery for
various companies.
Concepts are important
Sisma is also presenting an innovative
product for selective laser
melting which represents a new
addition to this sector. “We have
developed a product especially for
the jewellery sector,” says Company
Manager Gianni Panizzon.
It has been tested using bronze,
chromium and steel. Gold is next
on the list. “The most important
point is the concept,” says Panizzon.
One of the challenges is to
make sure that no material is lost
in the production process. “We
can reduce losses to virtually
zero,” says Panizzon. The price
for the machine is 120,000 euros,
plus the cost of the software.
Sisma enters the field of laser melting.
PAGE 34
All of the manufacturers are
pleased to have competition in
the field. This attracts more attention
and increases the confidence
of potential customers, says
Stefan Richardt.
The potential of SLM technology
is indisputable. This process is
going to join traditional investment
casting as the production
technique of the future thanks to
its manufacturing flexibility and
freedom in terms of shapes, something
which was unimaginable
until today.
From the viewpoint of the suppliers,
these processes are significantly
more efficient than casting
because there is no need for any
preparation or set-up time. The
use of the raw materials also saves
money; only the material required
to produce each individual item is
used. The pieces can be produced
directly from CAD data, and no
shaping is necessary. “This saves
on stages of production as well as
energy,” says Zito. This process
therefore makes jewellery production
significantly more environmentally-friendly.
(pgl) ■

Brand FaCT
4,672 models
scheduled to be released in 2012.
The Invicta Venom Classic
invictawatch.com
HALL 1.1 . BOOTH E31

PA RT O F T H E H O U S E O F
INTRODUCING THE NEW WATCH COLLECTION BY LULU GUINNESS
H A L L O F D E S I R E S - B O O T H 1 . 1 D 2 3 - I n F O @ E LL E - T I m E . c O m - W W W . T O P B R A n D S . I T

TECHNIQUE | BOOKS PAGE 38
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Trendy colours are a must for alloys
Powers of precious and semiprecious metals are shown for the first time
This year, the manufacturers of
alloys have more than just the
usual small grains to show; they
are also featuring powder which
can be used in selective laser
melting. However, as before, the
classic grains continue to dominate.
“We do not use powder in
production,” says Martin Stegmaier,
Departmental Manager for
Decorative Precious Metals at
Umicore.
The company is presenting its
Rhoduna alloy. The colour is as
white as that of pure rhodium
but the surface more uniform
and abrasion-resistant. At the
same time, the White Queen is
about 20 percent cheaper than
pure rhodium layers. The company
uses an admixture of 25
percent ruthenium. The alloy has
been specifically developed for
jewellery manufacturers. “White
continues to be a key fashion colour,”
says Stegmaier. The issues
of environmental impact and
avoiding the use of substances
such as nickel, cobalt, arsenic and
cadmium are also important.
Heinz Rasenack from the American
alloy specialist United PMR
is not presenting any powders
this year but is convinced that
they will move in this direction
in the future. But it will not be
as soon as next year. “We only
want to supply items which work
really well and detailed testing
is still required,” says Rasenack.
He is optimistic that this type of
faster product development will
become a hit and is watching
developments with great interest.
The fine powders are new territory
for the manufacturers of
classic alloys. Damiano Zito
of Progold says it is necessary
for the powder and machine to
come from the same place. This
ensures that the reasons behind
any problems in the production
process can be quickly identified.
“It could be compared to a
printer,” says Zito. “You cannot
use printer cartridges from other
manufacturers without problems
arising.”
His competitor Legor Group
sees things differently. According
to communication manager
at Legor, Elisabetta Marchi, they
are in a position to offer and
adapt powders for different customers
to meet the customer
specifications in terms of grain,
Speaking names are important for alloys.
size and shape. For this reason,
they also offer customer
service and advice. Legor has
developed special packaging too.
Previously, the alloys in grain
form were packaged in a simple
way. It is different with powder
because it has to be stored at
relatively constant temperatures
and should not be allowed to
get too warm. Transportation at
Legor takes place in specially
sealed containers.
Consultation is therefore
required because selective laser
melting gives rise to other possibilities
for designers, e.g. relating
to the surface design or the sup-
Most wanted books in Basel
Horlogerie Française –
Les artisans du temps
Bruno Cabanis, photographer
fascinated by crafts, offers
the reader a foray into the artisans
of French watchmaking, from cre-
ation to production through restoration.
Nothing is left in the
shadows, since the book is focussing
on a string of skills specific
to the art of high precision
which is watchmaking. Managing
to capture the actions of
these artisans of time, Bruno
Cabanis highlights the
work of about 20 crafts through
more than 800 photographs.
Watchmaker, turner bronze,
bronze-carver or cabinetmaker
art − everyone played along,
giving way to see both mastering
and teaching the mechanics
of their art. The author Bruno
Cabanis will be on site for a
book signing: Saturday, 2 pm in
the book shop.
Bruno Cabanis, Horlogerie Française
– Les artisans du temps, Eyrolles,
263 pages, 220 x 280 mm, 800
photographs, French, ISBN 978-2-
212-12865-9, CHF 44
Haldimann – Horology
Switzerland
“When I close my eyes I can still
see him in front of me − the master
horologist who introduced
me to the art of clock and watchmaking.
His magnifying glass,
hands, and white coat are still
today vivid memories. He owned
a wonderful workshop where
I spent my apprenticeship years as
a clock and watch repairer, learning
how to restore new and old
masterpieces. Among this magnificent
blend of art and technology,
combining craftsmanship and
intellect, I soon developed the
ambition to create such masterpieces
myself.” Beat Haldimann
has not forgotten his roots. This
ports required for the production
process. Here, too, it is useful to
offer advice.
Creativity is required both in
terms of the materials and the
names used. “This is a factor in
whether the various alloys sell,”
says Heinz Rasenack of United
PMR. His company is launching
two new products in 2012. The
first is Platinet, a platinum-based
sterling silver. It is an all-purpose
grain for casting and production
applications with a brilliant white
colour. Rasenack also notes a
trend back in the direction of
gold, although prices continue to
be subject to substantial fluctua-
Powders have to be packaged very carefully.
richly illustrated book
presents his manufacturing
firm in Thun,
offering impressive
insight into how a
desire to encapsulate
traditional and innovative
Swiss watchmaking
led to the creation
of such high quality
watches and sculptures.
The publication
also offers an overview
of the family’s watchmaking
history which
dates back to 1642.
Beat Haldimann (ed.), Haldimann –
Horology Switzerland, Stämpfli Verlag,
cloth binding with slip case, 204
tion. He has noted this development
in the USA in particular.
The second material with a fitting
name is Karat Sterling, a patented
gold-based sterling-silver formulation
combining tarnish-resistant
and high fluidity elements.
For Legor, it is also important
to offer products which do not
tarnish. The company offers a
Nano Coating for this purpose.
In 2011, the product was released
in a transparent design and now
comes in 30 different colours.
“Based on a cathaphoretic process,
the coating adheres perfectly
to the metal,” says Elisabetta
Marchi. (pgl) n
pages, numerous illustrations, text in
German and English, ISBN 978-3-
7272-1147-8, CHF 69
Books are available at the bookshop right in front of Hall 1 and on
www.watchprint.com

C E R A M I C A
WWW.TOY-WATCH.IT
BASELWORLD 2012 HALL 1.1 - BOOTH E71

Please visit us at
Hall 2.1 Stand F85
T E R R A C O L L E C T I O N
“ Ti S e n t o M i l a n o b e c o m e s t h e Q u e e n o f s i l ver jewellery.”
- T h e B a s e l world Daily News, 2 7 t h M a r ch 2011
IBB Amsterdam • T. +31(0)20-342 80 80 • www.tisento-milano.com • info@tisento-milano.com • Ti Sento Milano Jewellery is made of sterling silver • Prices from € 35,-

PAGE 41
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
The perpetual popularity of pearls
The cultured pearl keeps getting better and better
There are so many different varieties
of cultured pearls these days
that it’s hard if not impossible
to keep up. And that is what
has kept this niche industry in
the lime light for the past two
decades. What used to be a roller
coaster of fashion has turned
into a fairly consistent stream of
popularity.
First and foremost, there is the
traditional strand of 6 and 7 mm
round white rose Mikimoto
Japanese Akoya cultured pearls.
After that, graduating in size
and colour, we have the South
Seas, including Australia, Tahiti,
Indonesia, and the Philippines
producing larger white, black,
golden and other variations of
colourful round bead nucleated
cultured pearls. Beyond this, we
go baroque − odd shapes, and
keshi − non-nucleated accidental
cultured pearls.
But what has exponentially
grown our cultured pearl choices
has been the explosion in the
number of Chinese freshwater
cultured pearl varieties. With so
many variations in shapes, sizes,
and colours, it’s almost impossible
to count.
With all of these choices, and
the constant change from one
year to the next, no wonder the
pearl business continues on a
nice steady growth.
One of the biggest changes over
the past two decades has been the
increasing quality, not only of
the freshwaters, but also the saltwaters
as well. And that means
a lot to the industry as a whole.
“I’ve been in this
business of
pearls now
for more
t h a n
Incredibly large pair of Australian
white South Seas cultured baroque
pearls, too large for the pearl gauge.
From Alain Boite (3.1, H11).
30 years,” says Alain Boite (3.1,
H11), importer of natural and
cultured pearls. “We focus on
quality. Quality is everything.
I have big necklaces, rounds,
baroques … all of nice quality.”
Here at the show, Boite has
brought his collection of South
Seas cultured pearls, which currently
represents roughly 85% of
his business. Australian, Indonesian,
and Tahitian cultured pearls
as well as some Chinese cultured
freshwaters. “Whites, goldens,
blacks, and anything unusual …
something nice is much more
important to me.”
South Seas’ gold
Golden Philippines cultured
pearls is the business of Jewelmer
(3.1, L46), pearl producers and
jewellery manufacturers. Gaelle
Branellec, Jewelmer’s creative
director and production manager,
spoke to us about their
new ‘Stella’ line of jewellery. “It’s
beautiful not only for its pearls,
but for its craftsmanship and
modern design. We have pearls
with thin gold. It’s very flexible,
creating a modern and elegant
movement.”
Boite had shown us large South
Seas baroques, and now we are
seeing them again at Coscia.
“Large South Seas baroques are
everywhere here at the show,”
says Giancarlo Coscia, owner of
Coscia Perle Coltivate (3.1, E53).
“BASELWORLD is the most
important show, so we all bring
our most important pearls.”
While we saw several varieties of
pearls at Coscia, the round Akoyas
got our attention. “Because
many retailers still have some
confusion with the different varieties
of pearls offered today, we
have our branded Coscia
line of Akoya jewellery,
with all of
the literature
a v a i l a b l e
for them
and their
An incredible mixed colour strand of bead nucleated Chinese freshwater cultured pearls, measuring 14 to 15 mm, all natural colour,
including the deep purple! From London Pearl (3.0, C41).
sales staff.” Coscia showed us
unfinished strands as well. What
impressed us was the size of Akoyas
offered, with several 9, 9½,
10 and even 10+ mm strands.
This is considered quite large for
an Akoya pearl.
Daniel Vecht, managing director
for London Pearl (3.0, C41) had
his fair share of large baroques
but one stood out amongst the
others, measuring 30 x 26 mm,
sitting in front of a very large
21 mm round. Vecht then showed
us a special collection of large
Chinese freshwater bead nucleated
beautifully smooth rounds
from 14 to 16 mm and natural
pink colour! Fantastic! What
really stood out though was the
multi-coloured undrilled strand
also measuring 14 x 16 mm, all
natural grown colours with an
amazing variety, including purple,
lilac, pink, and gold.
Keshi king
Thierry Porchet, director general
for Porchet (3.0, E14), says that
pearls will always be popular.
“Every woman, once in her lifetime,
wants to have a pearl. It
will always be popular.” While
Porchet is most known for their
mix of colours, sizes and shapes,
Porchet says that they are now
also known as “the King of
Keshi!” and proceeded to show
us why. She brought over trays
and trays of beautiful Tahitian,
Indonesian, and Australian nonnucleated
cultured pearls. Keshi
are pearls that have formed by
accident during the culturing
process, which also explains the
unusual shapes these pearls tend
to take. And having something
unusual and/or unique is the key
to success. “They’re most original,”
says Porchet. “Natural colour
with no nucleus makes them
very attractive.” All of this makes
these unusual unique pearls very
fashionable. And Porchet seems
to have cornered a large production.
“There is a strong demand
for special rare goods. And there
are so few of these in the show.”
Alexandre Hahn of Gerhard Hahn
Pearl (3.0, F20) had that large 21
mm Tahitian cultured pearl we
reported on last year, and he
seems to have outdone himself
this year with not just another
large Tahitian, 20.8 mm, but also
GEMSTONES
a matched pair of 21.4 mm round
South Seas whites.
For more finished pearl jewellery,
don’t forget to visit hall 2 and
visit pearl manufacturers such as
Mikimoto (2.2, B50), Autore (2.1,
A72), Gellner (2.1, A82), Utopia
(2.2, B70), and Schoeffel (2.2,
D20) among others. (gr) n
Corscia’s Akoyas measuring up through 10+ mm! For an Akoya oyster, this is huge!
Keshi from Australia (whites in the back), Tahiti (greys), and Indonesia (goldens) from the king of
keshi, Porchet (3.0, E14).
61 pearls measuring from 12 to 16 mm, a wonderful mix of Tahitian grey, Indonesian gold,
and Chinese freshwater pink, round cultured pearls. From Porchet (3.0, E14).
A magnificent strand of golden South Seas cultured pearls, 15 to 17 ½ mm perfectly round,
terrific luster, and all natural colour. From Alain Boite (3.1, H11).

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Zhong Hua
TTF IMPERIAL JEWELRY SHOW OF DRAGON YEAR IN BASEL 2012
Featuring Works of Renown Artists
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Date: 9 March, 2012(Friday) Time: 15:00pm-17:00pm Venue: Restaurant Spillmann , Eisengasse 1 CH-4051, Basel
Style: Afternoon Tea Party By Invitation only
Baselworld Hall2.1 L70
www.ttfhighjewelry.com info@ttfhighjewelry.com

PAGE 43
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Trade Mix Co Limited: The strik-
ing sports watch from the brand
Go Go Sport. Black is combined
with bright green. The sports watch is
water-proof and made from plastic and
rust-proof steel.
COUNTRIES
A powerful presence in the Year of the Dragon
Hong Kong’s luxury goods industry is strongly represented at BASELWORLD
The Chinese Year of the Dragon
is a good omen for the
numerous companies from
Hong Kong exhibiting in hall 6
at BASELWORLD 2012. Yet
again, they constitute the biggest
contingent from any country.
High quality diamonds, colourful
gemstones, sparkling precious
metals, pure forms and technical
sophistication − anyone visiting
the 239 companies from Hong
Kong (2011: 262) will discover a
wide range of designs and materials
on offer. The joint stand of
the Hong Kong Trade Development
Council (HKTDC) is
exhibiting an exclusive display
window for creativity and high
quality craftsmanship. This year,
there are 116 exhibitors presenting
jewellery (2011: 132) and 94
exhibiting watches (2011: 99). 19
of the firms specialise in packaging
materials (2011: 20) and ten
in watch components.
Fourth round for
brand initiative
Consumers are increasingly on
the look-out for items which will
retain their value and in doing
so are turning to high quality
gold jewellery, diamonds, pearls
and rare coloured gemstones. In
addition to the classic solitaire
stones, individually set precious
pearls and playful items which
incorporate the striking forms and
colours of nature are in particular
demand. The watch range extends
from classic and reserved to striking
trendy timepieces. Visitors can
see some fantastic jewellery creations
and watches from the latest
collections during two live shows
in hall 6. They form part of the
Hong Kong Brand Name Promotion
initiative which is entering its
fourth round this year. The initiative
includes jewellery brands
Lady Dream (B K Jewellery),
Wendy Yue (Diamond Tree Limited),
Fantasea (EJI), Gold Source
Jewellery (Gold Source Jewellery
Limited), T n K (On Going Jewellery
Ltd.) and Dol:ci (Waddy
Jewellery Company Limited).
The watch companies include
Jazma (Fat Tat Lee Watch Company
Limited), Madison New
York (Madison N.Y. Limited),
Owago (Owago Limited), Mixer
(Project International Limited),
Tacs (Creative Choice Limited)
and Temporis (Free Town Watch
Products Limited).
Innovations made
in Hong Kong
The innovative abilities of the
Hong Kong companies are demonstrated
by B K Jewellery in its
latest new collection from the
Lady Dream brand. The company
cuts and combines diamonds
using a globally patented proce-
The Hong Kong Trade Development Council turns hall 6 into a catwalk for fine jewellery.
The latest creations
can be seen at the
Hong Kong Fashion Show
Twelve renowned brands from
this metropolis will be presenting
their latest creations during
two product shows at the shared
stand of the Hong Kong Trade
Development Council.
The reception and product
show will take place on:
9 March at 3.30 pm in the
Activity Area of the jewellery
area (section beta), hall 6.0.
dure so that the stones resemble
a solitaire cut and share the same
refractive index (RI 2.42).
The design by Wendy Yue (Diamond
Tree Limited) captures the
natural appearance of flowers
and animals and reproduces this
look using gold and gemstones.
The Hong Kong-based brand is
presenting an Amphibian Wonderland
ring in 18 karat white
gold amongst other things. The
design includes two frogs decorated
with pink sapphires and
rhodolite garnet climbing on a
rose made from coral. The rose
blossoms in a virgin forest of purple
jade, citrine and green garnet.
The mysticism of the sea was the
inspiration for Fantasea from EJI
(Elegance Jewellery International
Limited). This jewellery set consisting
of earrings, a necklace
and a ring is made from 18 karat
white gold and set with diamonds
and a large blue topaz.
Gold Source Jewellery only uses
750 gold in its gemstone jewellery
collection. An ensemble
including a necklace, ring and
earrings features a captivating
interplay of colours created by
a diamond, aquamarine, peridot,
Finex Jewellery Ltd. : The filigree pendant is set
with various gemstones which are spread across
golden threads inside the pendant.
pink tourmaline, kunzite, pink
amethyst, lemon quartz and blue
topaz. T n K (On Going Jewellery
Ltd.) also draws on nature to
find the inspiration for its animal
motifs. In Basel, the Hong Kongbased
company is presenting an
extravagant ring dominated by
a chameleon which is set with
gemstones in the royal colours.
In its Dol:ci brand collection,
Waddy Jewellery Company Limited
encapsulates blue sapphires
and white diamonds in a flexible
pendant for use with a chain,
earrings or a ring. The pendant
resembles a droplet of water
and can be worn on the
neckline, ears or finger,
depending on your
mood. Fat Tat Lee
Watch Company Limited
presents a successful
combination
of black and white
Jewelry Mfy Ltd: This company from Hong Kong
is presenting opulent gold rings with coloured
gemstones in Basel.
in its Jazma brand timepieces.
According to a survey at the
last HKTDC Hong Kong Watch
& Clock Fair, this is the most
sought-after colour combination
for watches in 2012. The designs
for the current ‘Japan Made
Collection’ were created by the
renowned Japanese designer Inaba
Naomi. She combines black
ceramic with steel and sparkling
Swarovski crystals, among other
things, to create very clear
and modern designs which can
be adapted to suit any style.
The watches in the latest Candy
Collection from Madison New
York (Madison N.Y. Limited) are
real fashion statements. The colourful
silicon designs suit any
look. The Candy Collection also
includes the Candy Flash with
LEDs which light up when they
detect movement − guaranteeing
a striking presence!
The look presented by the new
Maple L’amour collection of
watches from Temporis (Free
Town Watch Products Limited)
is pure glamour. The rose goldplated
case is decorated with
the characteristic maple leaf.
Swarovski crystals on the watch
dial and strap add a touch of
sparkling elegance.
The puristic designs from Tacs
(Creative Choice Limited) stand
in sharp contrast to this. As
part of its latest collection, the
watch manufacturer addresses
the theme of ‘classic audio’. The
watch face of the black Channel
Box model is defined by the
shape of an analogue receiver
rather than by its digits. The retro
design evokes associations with
classic audio devices.
Designs of the future
The fact that Hong Kong design
combines creativity with top quality
handicraft is demonstrated both
by the presentations at BASEL-
WORLD and the country’s regular
renowned design competitions
such as the Hong Kong Jewellery
Design Competition, the winner
of which was presented to the
public at the 13th HKTDC Hong
Kong International Jewellery Show
in mid-February. On this occasion,
some 300 creative designers submitted
applications to the competition
under the theme of ‘Flying
Dragon’. This was a tribute to the
Year of the Dragon. The Interstellar
Dream design by Ho Kwan Po
received one of the three ‘Best
of Show Awards’ (open group
category). This designer ring features
a dragon following a star.
The Bleeding Heart Vine earring
design by Choi Sze Man shows
young dragons exhaling as they
fly. The breath of the dragons
is depicted in the form of pearls.
The design was given a ‘Merit
Award’ in the student group. The
‘Champion and Craftsmanship
& Technology Award’ in the student
group went to the Gaming
Fire Dragon necklace by Ngan Ka
Yi. The ring-shaped pendant on
the chain symbolises a cloud in
the form of blue moonstone with
a dragon flying through it. The
chain set with fire opals embodies
the dragon. (ahe) n

Hall of Visions, Hall 2.1, Stand A72
Australia’s Finest South Sea Pearl Jewellery
For Worldwide Stockists: www.pearlautore.com
2010 Winner Art of Design Awards, Jewllery category, Veranda Magazine USA | 2010 Winner Best Pearl Design Award for the “Princess of the Lagoon” Venezia Collection, Couture, USA | 2009 Winner Italian Jewellery Designer
of the Year, UK Jewellery Awards | 2008 Winner Best New Jewellery Collection, Baselworld, Vogue Jewellery, Spain | 2008 Winner Best Pearl Design Award for the “Queen of Atlantis” Oceania Collection, Town & Country, USA

PAGE 47
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Diamond industry outlook
China and India drive the global diamond industry
Luxury research firm Bain &
Company’s Global Diamond
Industry report estimated the global
jewellery market at USD
147 billion in 2011, up 5.8%
from 2010. Much of this is driven
by sales in China and India
where, the study predicts, a doubling
in the ranks of the middle
classes by 2020 will drive much
of the demand for diamonds.
The combined market share of
this region is projected to reach
30% by the end of the decade, up
nearly half from its current levels
and nearly equal to the share of
the United States. In terms of
supply, the report says that by
2020, annual production will
swell to nearly 175 million carats
and surpass peak 2007 pre-crisis
production levels. The Bain
report mentions the growing
scarcity of high quality +2-carat
polished diamonds, which points
to disproportional increases in
revenues in the segment. “These
sizes typically represent only 5%
of diamond production by volume,
but 50% of sales value for
producers,” the report says. “Giv-
The annual diamond production will swell until 2020 to nearly 175-million carats.
en this even more pronounced
structural shortage for larger diamonds,
retail chains will need to
seriously reconsider their diamond
sourcing strategies in the
coming years.”
A rollercoaster year 2011
Moti Ganz, chair of the Israel
Diamond Industry commented
in a release in January: “In 2011
we have exceeded our polished
diamond export figures of 2007,
which stood at USD 7.1 billion
before the start of the economic
crisis. This is clear testimony to
the strength and vitality of the
Israeli diamond industry.”
According to the Antwerp World
Diamond Centre, the rough diamond
sector suffered from a rollercoaster
year in 2011. In the first
half of 2011, demand and prices
were very high, followed by a sharp
downturn in the second half of the
year. Overall prices were higher
than the previous year, while availability
of goods was lower.
Exports of rough diamonds for
2011 from Belgium totaled USD
14.42 billion, a 31.2% increase.
Volume declined, however, by
15.6% to 107.1 million carats.
Imports of rough diamonds
increased 41.9%, while the volume
of imports declined by
9.9%. The increase in value
despite the decrease in volume
resulted in a doubling of the
average value of trade in 2011
compared to 2010.
Belgium’s polished diamond
trade increased by more than
30% in 2011, yet margins fell by
more than 10%. Net polished
diamond exports totaled USD
606.6 million, a 22.6% decline.
The U.S. was the leading export
destination, followed by Hong
Kong and Switzerland.
Israel exported a net of USD
7.2 billion worth of polished diamonds
in 2011, a 23.5% increase
over 2010. The country exported
3.31 million carats of polished
diamonds, a 4% increase yearover-year.
In terms of rough, Israel’s
exports for 2011 dropped
11% (to 14.77 million carats) but
increased in value by 18% (to
USD 4.41 billion).
Substance to complement your style
INTERNATIONAL MARKETS
Polished diamond prices rose by
17% during 2011 according to
the IDEX Online Polished Diamond
Price Index, which indicates
that polished prices are now
above pre-recession levels, following
two weak years. The
increase is attributable to solid
consumer demand from shoppers
in America, the largest global
market for diamonds and
diamond jewellery, demand from
emerging markets such as China
and India, restocking of diamonds
and diamond jewellery by
retailers in all markets, higher
diamond prices throughout the
pipeline and an increased sense
of optimism.
Rapaport Diamond Price Statistics
Annual Report 2011 shows
certified polished diamond prices
increased by 19%, spurred by
strong buying in the first half of
the year.
According to the IDEX Online
Polished Diamond Price Index
for 2011, the near-term outlook
for the diamond industry is
uncertain, but the long-term is
bright. (cb) ■
Style SUBSTANCE
Why do leading luxury brands Access to the influential.
advertise with us? Last year, women accounted for 60% of all spend in the luxury
goods sector. 1
1 Bain & Company – Global Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study, 10th Edition – Oct 2011.
2 EMS Summer 2011. EMS is a survey based on the top 13% of income earning households in Europe. Figure
relates to monthly reach and includes the UK for BBC World News, excludes the UK for BBC.com and mobile.
BBC World News is a trademark of the British Broadcasting Corporation © 1996
Photo: Shutterstock
With nearly half of the high-earning, high-spending European
businesswoman audience, BBC World News is the ideal channel
to engage them at the point of influence. 2
To find out more, contact Laeticia de Belloy on +33 1 44 95 84 06
or laeticia.debelloy@bbc.com
.com

INTERNATIONAL MARKETS PAGE 48
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
On the path of full recovery
The president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses expect 2012 to be a good year
BWDN talks diamonds with
Avi Paz, president of the World
Federation of Diamond Bourses
as well as about the outlook for
the industry.
BWDN: Would it be accurate to
say that, with Israel’s polished
diamond export figures exceeding
pre-recession levels, the diamond
industry has experienced a
full recovery in 2011?
Avi Paz: When analyzing the
year 2011, it is very obvious that
the year was divided into two
periods of time that were different
from one another. In the first
eight months of the year (January
to August) the Israel diamond
industry indeed experienced
a full recovery, with export
figures exceeding pre-recession
levels. Unfortunately, this trend
changed in the last four months
of the year. From September to
December, the industry experienced
a dramatic slowdown and
signs of recession where evident
again. This trend leaves us with a
big question mark concerning
the future.
This year is expected to be a year of growth in the global diamond and jewellery market.
BWDN: Consumer diamond
jewellery sales were high in 2011.
What is the outlook for the
world diamond industry in 2012?
Paz: At the moment there are
fortunately very positive signs of
recovery in the American consumer
market and parallel to that
we have high expectations from
the Eastern markets as well. The
consumer markets in countries
such as China, India and other
developing countries are growing
rapidly and in the past years they
have become more and more
important to us. Regarding the
development and behavior of
these important markets, one
Overpromising is not our nature.
But pleasant surprises are.
We believe that little things matter. So in SWISS Business, you’ll
enjoy a fully at bed, the best cuisine of Switzerland, and as always,
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SWISS is proud to support
BASELWORLD 2012
as offi cial carrier
should also note the Chinese
year of the Dragon, which is
expected to be a year of luck and
prosperity.
As for the European markets,
despite the debt downturn we
haven’t witnessed a dramatic
slowdown in consumption in
Europe so far, and we hope very
much this will be the case going
forward. To sum up: 2012 is
expected to be a year of growth
and stabilization in the global
diamond and jewellery industries.
The outlook is that in 2012
we will reach stability in all the
major consuming markets and
we also believe there is a potential
of continued development
and growth in certain markets.
The most important thing for us
is that the industry will not experience
drastic ups and downs in
the upcoming year.
BWDN: Diamond industry analyst
Chaim Even-Zohar has pronounced
the Kimberley Process
‘clinically dead’ due mainly to
the impasse on Zimbabwe diamonds
and other issues. Would
you agree? Is there any solution
to the current problems? Is there
an alternative to the KP?
Paz: The KP is currently the best
alternative that exists in monitoring
the global trade of rough
diamonds, and it is our duty not
only to criticize the system but
also, at the same time, to do all
that we can to support and
improve it. The KP is not only
important for the industry but
also for all the countries involved
in it. It is also important for consumer
confidence around the
world. Throughout the years the
KP dealt with many challenges
and proved itself to be potent
and effective. One can say that
at the end of the day it proved to
be successful in addressing and
achieving its goals. One of the
main goals of the KP today is to
re-assess the current challenges
and make sure it has all the
means to deal with them successfully.
Regarding this matter, one
should note that the U.S. is acting
as the chairman of the KP in
2012 and that is a very positive
thing. (cb) ■
050_300_Plane_Nose_270x180_Baselworld 1 13.01.12 10:15
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SERVICE | IMPRESSUM PAGE 50
Overview of the halls
WATCH BRANDS
Hall of Dreams (1.0)
Traditional brands/watch manu-
facturers with international
brand recognition, brands of
the major luxury groups
Hall of Desires (1.1)
Traditional brands/watch
manufacturers, brands with
an international image and
communication strategy
Hall of Fascinations (2.0)
Hall of Sensations (3.0)
Hall of Inspirations (4.U,
4.0, 4.1)
Hall of Emotions (5.0, 5.1)
Branded watches
BASELWORLD Palace
Watch brands
Opening hours
Daily: 9 am – 6 pm
Last day (Thursday, March 15): 9 am – 4 pm
Prices of admission
Day ticket CHF 60.–
Eight-day ticket CHF 150.–
Catalogue BASELWORLD 2012
The Watch and Jewellery Show CHF 40.–
Business Centre & Press Information
Hall 1.2
Media Centre
On the Exhibition Square
Providing all the international daily newspapers
and economic journals and also selected
fashion and lifestyle magazines, as well as the
complete spectrum of publications revolving
around the watch and jewellery industry.
JEWELLERY BRANDS
Hall of Visions/First Avenue
(2.2)
Prestige jewellery
Hall of Visions (2.2, 2.1)
Prestige jewellery
Hall of Feelings (2.1, 2.0)
Jewellery manufacturers with
an international communication
concept
Hall of Impressions (2.0)
Jewellery manufacturers
RELATED BRANDS
Hall of Elements (3.0, 3.1)
Stones and pearls
Hall of Innovations (3.U, 3.2)
Clocks, watch straps, packaging,
displays, components,
tools, machines, others
BASELWORLD general information
■ IMPRINT
BASELWORLD Daily News
A publication by Untitled Verlag und
Agentur GmbH & Co. KG
Managing Director:
Dr. Christian Jürgens
Editors:
Watches: Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine
Zwettler (sz), William George Shuster (wgs)
Jewellery: Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder
(ahe), Christel Trimborn (cete)
Gemstones: Gary Roskin (gr)
Countries/International Markets: Axel
Henselder (ahe), Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc)
Technique: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl)
Village: Anja Szerdi (as)
BASELWORLD Shop
On the Exhibition Square
Catalogue Centre, Book Shop,
Swiss International Air Lines,
SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus
Rail
SBB Swiss Federal Railways
BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition Square
Swiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300
French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35
German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33
Air travel service
Swiss International Air Lines
BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition Square
Reservation Swiss International Air Lines,
tel. +41 848 700 700
Information EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-
Freiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11
Zurich Airport: tel. +41 900 30 03 13
Contributors:
Pooja Agarwal (pa)
Carol Besler (cb)
Kyra Brenzinger (kb)
Gerhard Claußen (gc)
Elizabeth Doerr (ed)
Magdalena Malawska (mm)
Roberta Naas (rn)
John Rice (jr)
NATIONAL PAVILIONS
Hall of Universe (6.0)
Watches, jewellery and
related brands
Editorial Management:
Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt
tel. +41 61 699 80 57
dailynews@unitled-verlag.de
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
FREE SHOW GUIDE
FOR SMART PHONES
Get the free BASELWORLD app for your
iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart
phones! It contains an interactive 3D map of
the show, visitor information, detailed information
on the exhibitors as well as a selection of
articles from the current Daily News issue.
Free download:
baselworld.com/app
Airport
EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (10 km
from Basel city centre) and Zurich Airport
(90 km from Basel city centre).
A shuttle bus service is available which takes
you directly to the Basel Exhibition Centre
from EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg
(daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm) as well as from
Zurich Airport (daily from 7.30 am to 7 pm).
Lost property
Hall 2.0
tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70
Tram
Tram stop “Messeplatz”
Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF railway
stations (8 min.)
Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway station
“Badischer Bahnhof” (2 min.)
Art Direction:
Kerstin Vorwalter
Layout:
Janina Demiana Roll | Heike Wahnbaeck
Marlene Wolf
Picture editor:
Andre Weinberg
Photos:
David Matthiessen | Volker Renner
Daniel Stauch
Translation:
Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen
Prisca DeGroat
GET IN TOUCH
WITH BASELWORLD
Join us on Facebook or follow our latest
news on Twitter – and interact with us and
other visitors!
facebook.com/baselworld
twitter.com/baselworld
Prayer room
In Hall 5.0 there is a prayer room for Muslims.
For further details, please contact our information
hosts.
Basel Tourism
Tourist Information/Hotel reservation in the
Stadtcasino at
Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel
tel. +41 61 268 68 68
fax +41 61 268 68 70
info@basel.com
www.basel.com
Exhibition customs office
Hall 2, Foyer
tel. +41 58 206 21 22
Bank – Change – Safe
Basler Kantonalbank: Congress Center branch
Advertising:
MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.
BASELWORLD
CH-4005 Basel / Switzerland
tel. +41 58 206 2222
exhibitor@baselworld.com
Printing:
Vogt-Schild Druck AG
CH-4552 Derendingen
www.vs-druck.ch
BASELWORLD Daily News is published
by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH &
Co. KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable
on application to the publisher.
All rights reserved.
BASELWORLD VILLAGE:
HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT
Great atmosphere, delicious food,
cocktails and live music
Thursday, March 8, 2012 to
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
6 pm to 2 am
Binningerstrasse 14,
CH-4051 Basel
RESTAURANTS
Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary
elixir in a unique setting
www.acquabasilea.ch
Baracca Zermatt – enjoy Swiss
food in a chalet style atmosphere
www.baraccazermatt.ch
We will be pleased to accept
your table reservations on
tel. +41 61 564 66 66
UPCOMING DATES
FOR BASELWORLD
April 25 – May 2, 2013
March 27 – April 3, 2014
March 19 – March 26, 2015
BASELWORLD Daily News may
not be reproduced in any manner of
form without written permission.
Publisher’s address:
Untitled Verlag und Agentur
GmbH & Co. KG
Innocentiastraße 33
D-20144 Hamburg
tel. +49 40 189 881-0
fax +49 40 189 881-111
info@untitled-verlag.de

HALL 2.0, STAND R01 (GROUND FLOOR)
CREATED AND HANDCRAFTED BY ARTISANS
WWW.DELANEAU.COM

VILLAGE | CELEBS PAGE 52
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
Sensuous surprises at the Atlantis
A capella professionals of “a-live” performing their impressive show.
Like last year, the restaurant
‘Atlantis’ in Basel was the place
to be for the delightful press party
right before BASELWORLD.
The show management did not
spare any effort to entertain the
international mix of press representatives
during the evening.
Various drinks and snacks were
provided along with the impres-
sive live show of the a capella
group ‘a-live’. A unique music
mix with roots in many different
genres, such as hip hop, 60s’ and
70s’ music, and country music,
provided invigorating musical
entertainment. And what would
Switzerland be without promoting
one of its most famous and
worldwide popular products:
chocolate. Pascal Beschle, Maître
Chocolatier in the fourth generation
of the Basel-based family
business ‘Beschle Chocolatier
Suisse’ was invited to create in
front of the enchanted guests
exquisite chocolates. The BASEL-
WORLD press party: always a
delightful and relaxing kick-off
event. (as) n
BASELWORLD: The place to meet international celebrities
International movie star, former U.S. politician, and avid watch
collector Arnold Schwarzenegger just stopped by to visit his
friend Ali Soltani, owner of Ritmo Mundo.
German actress Jenny Elvers-Elbertzhagen with Gregor Kroll
(left), CEO Pranda Group, and Chanat Sorakraikitikul, Pranda.
From the moment the doors to
BASELWORLD open the show
is frequented by numerous celebrities.
Many of them appear as
brand ambassadors − others simply
mix up with visitors, enjoying
the showcased timepieces and
jewels. At the booth of Luminox
the new partnership with underwater
explorer Scott Cassell was
highlighted. Cassell, a researcher
and environmental activist, is
now supported by Luminox to
continue his already seven-yearold
‘Undersea Voyager Project’.
It aims to study and help save
the world’s oceans. Two special
editions, the Scott Cassell Professional
Deep Dive Watches, are
dedicated to Scott Cassell whose
“office is 500 feet deep and has
no light.” They provide the perfect
amount of light to work in a
dark submarine like Cassell’s.
Scott Cassell (left) and Andre Bernheim, co-owner of Luminox, in front of Cassell’s own
two-person submarine ‘The Great White’ at the Luminox booth.
Media representatives are enjoying the party.
Charming Cameron Diaz
It was the night before the opening
of the show when TAG
Heuer raised the curtain on its
newest brand ambassador −
Cameron Diaz. The Hollywood
actress proudly presented the
new Link Lady, a truly feminine
and notably elegant ladies’ collection.
“Throughout my career,
I have been very selective about
aligning myself with brands,”
said Cameron Diaz. Her part-
nership with TAG Heuer will also
serve to benefit and raise awareness
for programs that empower
women. “TAG Heuer shares my
desire to support women who
are not free to pursue even the
most basic goals, simply because
of their gender. And announcing
our partnership on the eve
of International Women’s Day
makes it even more significant,”
said Diaz. (as) n

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PREMIUM SPECIALISED RETAIL PAGE 54
FRIDAY. MARCH 9. 2012
“A starting point of our business”
Jeffery Yau, CEO of Europe Watch Company, on the importance of BASELWORLD
As the Chinese watch market
blossoms, retailers in Asia view
BASELWORLD as ever more
important for spending time with
watch brands. Such is the case
with Jeffery Yau, CEO of Europe
Watch Company, which opened
its flagship store in Tsimshatui,
Hong Kong, in 1997. In the fifteen
years since, Europe Watch Company
has successfully developed
a network of 14 retail stores in
Hong Kong, Macau, Beijing,
Jeffery Yau, CEO of Europe Watch Company.
“The pulse of the industry”
Wave Jewellery’s Paul Henderson tries to spot new trends before his customers do
The Wave Store in Kendal town, Lake District, UK.
Wave Jewellery, a handful of jewellery
stores in England, is the
creation of husband and wife
team Paul and Jo Henderson,
who started the business in 2001.
Paul and Jo travel the globe
sourcing the best and rarest diamonds,
searching out exquisite
jewellery by leading international
designers and tracking down the
best watch brands. This takes
them to Switzerland, Brazil, Italy,
Germany and further afield.
BWDN: In a packed calendar of
international jewellery and watches
trade shows, what makes
Shanghai and other Chinese
mainland cities. The Europe
Watch company is an authorized
dealer for more than 40 international
brands.
BWDN: How important is the
attendance of BASELWORLD for
your business?
Jeffery Yau: Basel is a must go
annual event for us. That is how
important it is. It is the most significant
event for the watch industry
in the whole year. We discover
the brands’ new collections and
product directions of the year for
the first time here. It is also the
time when we place our annual
purchases. In short, BASEL-
WORLD is a starting point of our
business of the year.
BWDN: Which trends do you
expect for this year?
Yau: Our shop network is mainly
in Hong Kong, Macau and mainland
China. The market has been
expanding in recent years. We can
also sense the increased importance
of it, as we start to see some
brands having products that are
more tailored to the Chinese cus-
BASELWORLD so important for
you to attend?
Paul Henderson: Basel is the only
truly international watch and jewellery
show. If I had to choose
only one show to attend then this
would be it in my opinion. It takes
the pulse of the industry worldwide.
As a result I believe it is
viewed by the brands/exhibitors as
the most important and for some
the only trade show of the year.
This in turn means new product
launches are timed for Basel and it
is critical to be there to maximise
the potential of this. Trends are
also set, reinforced and developed
The Europe Watch shop in Macau.
tomer’s taste. This could be one of
the trends this year.
BWDN: What does a typical day
here in Basel look like for you?
How many brands do you see?
Yau: We usually spend five days at
the show. Each day, we meet about
eight to ten brands. We are often
overwhelmed and tense about the
schedule because we want to make
sure to see each brand we work
with. The anxiety also comes from
the excitement before each
at Basel — more so, I believe, than
at any other show.
BWDN: What does BASEL-
WORLD offer that you may not
find anywhere else?
Henderson: It offers the best of
the best in all the sub sectors of
the industry it covers, not only the
obvious best in iconic watch
brands but also the best small specialist
and emerging watch brands.
BASELWORLD also offers the
best in stone suppliers and materials.
It gives access to Far Eastern
suppliers and manufacturers,
which means you don’t have to
travel all the way to Asia. And a
most varied and exciting array of
jewellery designers visit the show.
BWDN: What will you be looking
for in Basel this year in terms of
products, trends and networking
possibilities?
Henderson: I will be looking for
anything and everything that stops
me in my tracks, excites me or
shows potential for better business.
That could be anything from
an idea shared between colleagues
and business associates during the
“après show” (when the real
“work” begins), to a new exhibitor
hidden away in a corner of a less
appointment because we would be
presented each brand’s wonderful
work of new collection for the first
time.
BWDN: How about the networking
factor? What do you gain from
the show in that arena?
Yau: Nearly all the world’s watch
business professionals are gathered
at the show at the same time.
Among retailers, brands, media,
and even collectors, every year we
see old friends and meet new
visited hall. Also, Basel is an
opportunity to get fresh ideas
about displays and merchandising.
I will be looking to see where the
industry is heading and glean what
the future trends are before my
customers come looking for them.
BWDN: What are your expectations
for business in 2012 and how
can BASELWORLD help jewellery
retailers achieve stronger sales in a
fast-changing retail environment?
Henderson: 2012 will be a mixed
year. Those who succeed will have
an open mind, seize opportunities
Paul Henderson from Wave Jewellery.
friends. As a retailer and part of
the industry, we value the precious
opportunity to exchange the news
about the business and learning
the happenings in other countries
and markets.
BWDN: Which are the most
important brands for you here at
the show?
Yau: All the brands we work with
are very important to us. We
always try to allocate sufficient
time to meet with each brand.
Through the fruitful meetings, we
can define the direction and the
plans for the year.
BWDN: How many times have
you come to the show?
Yau: I started visiting the fair every
year since 1995. This year, it will
be the 17th time.
BWDN: Do you like to go to the
Village after the show?
Yau: The Village is a fun place to
unwind after a full day of meetings.
When I have spare time, I stop by
the Village and have a drink.
Interview by Roberta Naas ■
when they arise but also be cautious
at the same time. The good
times we saw a few years ago will
remain a distant memory throughout
this year, so good solid buying
and sensible decisions are what
will help us thrive and grow for
better times ahead. Basel offers all
the opportunities you need in a
competitive market. Basel is without
doubt a must for anyone who
takes their business seriously. It is
a magnet for new ideas, products
and trends.
Interview by John Rice ■

For relaxed East-West relations.
BASELWORLD
Hall 1.0, Stand B19
An imposing time machine developed with a genuine passion for watchmaking:
the Patravi TravelTec chronograph is also an offi cially certifi ed chronometer and shows three
times simultaneously. The patented monopusher conveniently selects the direction
of travel – east or west – and jumps over time zones. Carl F. Bucherer’s philosophy, founded
on intelligent functions and mechanisms, could not be interpreted more perfectly.
www.carl-f-bucherer.com