3847 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

English
Cutting
Layouts
®
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
3847
Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.
B
C
A
B
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
★
✻
1 / 4
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
A SKIRT
A
D
A
USE PIECES 1 2
PIECE 4 IS CUT OF FELT REMNANT
PIECES 5 6 7 ARE CUT OF
SHERPA REMNANT
72" (183CM) FELT
ALL SIZES
PETTICOAT (CUT CROSSWISE)
USE PIECE 1
PIECE 2 IS CUT OF RIBBON
44" 45" (115CM)
WITHOUT NAP
ALL SIZES
E
F
F
B
A
C
E
D
CROSSWISE FOLD
B
1 1 2
1
FOLD
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
19 pieces given
EDGES
1
4
16
15
★
CROSSWISE FOLD
1
5
6 7
18
17
NET RUFFLE
CUT THIRTY SIX STRIPS 6 1/4"
(16CM) LONG ACROSS THE
WIDTH OF THE NET
54" (140CM)
ALL SIZES
B SKIRT
USE PIECES 2 3
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
PETTICOAT
USE PIECE 3
PIECE 2 IS CUT OF RIBBON
44" 45" (115CM) / WITHOUT NAP
ALL SIZES
54" (140CM)
ALL SIZES
3
12
1-SKIRT FRONT AND BACK -A /
PETTICOAT FRONT AND BACK -A
2-SKIRT WAISTBAND -A,B /
PETTICOAT WAISTBAND RIBBON GUIDE -A,B
3-SKIRT FRONT AND BACK -B /
PETTICOAT FRONT AND BACK -B
4-7-APPLIQUE -A
8-FRONT -C,D
9-BACK -C,D
10-COLLAR -C,D
11-FRONT FACING -C,D
12-SLEEVE -C,D
13-BUTTONHOLE GUIDE -C,D
14-SLEEVE CUFF -D
15-APRON -E
16-FRONT BAND -E
17-TIE END -E
18-HAT CROWN -F
19-HAT BAND -F
2
19
NET RUFFLE
CUT FOURTEEN STRIPS 6 1/4" (16CM) LONG
ACROSS THE WIDTH OF THE NET
8
13
11
14
9
10
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The Pattern
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
NOTCHES
DOTS
CUTTING LINE
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-
SIZE PATTERNS.
Web Site
http://www.simplicity.com
General Directions
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
Sewing
• SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
6 1/4" (16CM)
6 1/4" (16CM)
Trim corners
3 3
3
EDGES
FOLD
SELVAGES
FOLD
EDGES
FOLD
★
SELVAGES
3
FOLD
EDGES
FOLD
2
Clip inner
curves
Notch outer
curves
e
E-mail
info@simplicity.com
Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
★ If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
A,B INTERFACING
USE PIECE 2
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
C SHIRT
USE PIECES 8 9 10 11 12
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
D SHIRT
USE PIECES 8 9 12
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 16 18 20 22
CONTRAST
USE PIECES 10 11 14
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
To Quick Mark:
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• Pin mark dots.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
✻ Mark small
arrows along both
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
SINGLE
THICKNESS
SELVAGES
11
8
a.
CROSSWISE FOLD
✁
b.
2
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
12
12 10
SEL.
9
FOLD FOLD
9
9
11
SELVAGES
8 12
SELVAGES
8
FOLD
12
FOLD
SELVAGE
14 10
FOLD
SEL.

English
3847
THICKNESS
2 / 4
INTERFACING
SELVAGE
USE PIECE 16
C,D INTERFACING
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
C: USE PIECES 10 11
10
SEL.
11 ALL SIZES
D: USE PIECES 10 11 14 14 FOLD
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
SEL.
16
SEL.
ALL SIZES
F HAT- CROWN
SEL.
USE PIECE 18
E APRON
USE PIECES 15 16 17
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SELS.
15
FOLD
17
16
SEL.
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SEL.
SEL.
18
FOLD
APPLYING
PIPING
INTERFACING
GATHER
1 2
FABRIC
APPLIQUE
3
7
6
5
7
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
4
NARROW HEM
7
7
CORNER
SINGLE THICKNESS
Sewing Directions
FABRIC
KEY
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
Sewing procedures ITALICIZED in Sewing Directions are defined
below:
GATHER- Stitch along 5/8” (1.5cm) seam line and 1/4”
(6mm) away within the seam allowance, using a long
machine-stitch and heavy thread in the bobbin.
INTERFACING -Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of
project sections as instructed in Sewing Directions. Cut
across outer corners of interfacing where necessary. Fuse in
place, following manufacturer’s directions.
NARROW HEM - Press under amount of hem allowance as
indicated on tissue pattern.
To form hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease; press.
Stitch hem close to inner pressed edge.
PIPING- On OUTSIDE, pin piping to project edges as
instructed in Sewing Directions, having cord extend beyond
seam line and flat/lip edge within the seam allowance.
Machine-baste as close to cord as possible without catching
in the cord.
When stitching your project as instructed, use a zipper or
cording foot on all seams trimmed with corded piping.
To Apply To A Corner, allow extra fullness at corner and
raise the presser foot, and clip the flat/lip edge up to the
cording, being careful not to snip the cord. Pivot with needle
in fabric at corner and continue piping the next edge.
SKIRT A, B
APPLIQUE A
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
1. Cut applique tissue block along outer solid line. Pin pattern to
RIGHT side of fabric remnant. Cut out each applique from
fabric. Transfer markings to RIGHT side of applique using
your favorite method. (Broken lines indicate where applique
pieces overlap.)
2. On OUTSIDE, pin rick-rack for leash to skirt front as shown or
as you prefer, being sure upper end of trim extends into seam
allowance at upper edge of skirt. Stitch along center of trim.
Pin applique 4 (poodle) to skirt front, lapping upper back
edge of applique over lower end of leash and being sure that
applique clears hem allowance at lower edge of skirt.
A glue stick can be used to temporarily hold the applique in
place before stitching.
3. Then pin appliques 5 (mane), 6 (head) and 7 (paws and tail)
to applique 4.
Zig-zag (satin) stitch along raw edges and/or broken lines.
Tie ribbon into a bow. Cut ends of bow diagonally.
Glue or hand-sew bow to mane at end of leash, as shown on
front of envelope. Glue pompom to nose and eye of poodle.
Appliques and trim do not show in the following illustrations.
4
6
8
STAY-STITCHING
7
SINGLE
9 10
13
11
12
VIEW A VIEW B
CONTRAST BAND
USE PIECE 19
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 19
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
5
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR BOTH VIEWS
4. Stay-stitch upper edge of skirt front and back 1/2" (1.3cm)
from cut edges in direction of arrows.
This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent
stretching on curved edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations.
5. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt front to skirt back at
LEFT side seam, stitching from lower edge to notch. Backstitch
at notch to reinforce seam.
6. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on LEFT front opening edge and
1/2" (1.3cm) on LEFT back opening edge.
Pin LEFT back edge to zipper tape, placing pressed edge
close to zipper teeth and tab end of zipper 1" (2.5cm) below
upper edge. Baste.
Pin and baste LEFT front edge to zipper tape, lapping LEFT
front 1/8" (3mm) over LEFT back.
Stitch as basted using an adjustable zipper foot to apply.
7. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt front to skirt back at
RIGHT side seam.
8. Apply INTERFACING to waistband.
Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on long edge of waistband without
dots; trim to 1/4" (6mm).
9. With RIGHT sides together, pin garment to band, matching
centers, placing opening edges at outer small dots and
RIGHT side seam at remaining small dot.
Baste, easing garment to fit.
Stitch. Trim seam; press toward band.
10. Fold band with RIGHT sides together. Stitch ends.
Trim seams and corners.
11. Turn band; press.
Slip-stitch pressed edge of band over seam.
12. Lap ends of band; fasten with hook closure.
CROSSWISE
FOLD
SELS.
FOLD
13. FOR VIEW A- Machine stitch 5/8" (1.5cm) from lower edge.
Press up hem along stitching, stitch close to raw edge.
FOR VIEW B- Machine-stitch 5/8'' (1.5cm) from lower edge.
Press up hem along stitching. To form narrow hem, tuck
under raw edge to meet stitching.
Press. Stitch hem in place.
19
SELS.
19
SELS.

English
3847
3
1
1
3
5
STAY-STITCHING
6
4
3 / 4
2
4
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
2
PETTICOAT A, B
Prepare petticoat same as skirt, see steps 4, 5, and 7.
1. NARROW HEM LEFT side opening edges, squaring stitching
1/4” (6mm) below opening. Zig-zag or overlock/serge upper
edge of petticoat.
2. Cut a piece of grosgrain ribbon the length of waistband ribbon
guide. Transfer markings.
On OUTSIDE, pin lower edge of band to upper edge of
petticoat along 5/8” (1.5cm) seam line, matching centers,
placing outer small dots at opening edges and remaining
small dot at RIGHT side seam. Stitch close to lower and
upper edges of band, making sure you catch in upper edge of
petticoat on INSIDE. Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on ends of
band. Stitch across ends of band in place, as shown.
Continue same as skirt, see step 12 and step 13 view B.
NET RUFFLES A
3. You have cut thirty six net ruffles.
For upper ruffle, stitch ends of ten ruffle sections together,
forming a circle.
For middle ruffle, stitch ends of twelve ruffle sections in same
manner.
For lower ruffle, stitch ends of fourteen ruffle sections in same
manner.
GATHER upper edge of upper, middle and lower ruffles.
4. Pin WRONG side of lower ruffle to RIGHT side of petticoat,
having lower row of gathering stitches along lower stitching
lines, placing one seam at each side seam and remaining
seams at large dots. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste.
Stitch. Pin middle ruffle to petticoat, having lower row of
gathering stitches along middle stitching lines, placing one
seam at each side seam, one seam at center front and center
back, and remaining seams at large dots. Pull up gathering
stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch.
Apply upper ruffle to petticoat in same manner as lower ruffle,
having lower row of gathering stitches along upper stitching
lines.
NET RUFFLES B
5. You have cut fourteen net ruffles.
For upper ruffle, stitch ends of six net ruffles sections
together, leaving one end open, forming a straight line.
For lower ruffle, stitch ends of eight ruffle sections together,
forming a circle.
GATHER upper edge of upper and lower ruffles.
6. Pin WRONG side of lower ruffle to RIGHT side of petticoat,
having lower row of gathering stitches along lower stitching
line, placing one seam at each side seam, one seam at
center front and center back, and remaining seams at large
dots. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch. Pin upper
ruffle to petticoat, having lower row of gathering stitches
along upper stitching line, placing ends at LEFT side opening
edges, one seam at RIGHT side seam, and remaining seams
at large dots. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste. Stitch.
TOP C, D
1. Stay-stitch front and back neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut
edge in direction of arrows.
This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent
stretching on curved edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations.
Make darts in front; press down.
2. Stitch front to back at shoulder and side seams.
3. Apply INTERFACING to one collar section.
Machine-stitch 5/8" (1.5cm) from notched edge of collar.
Clip notched edge of collar to stitching at small dots.
4. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on raw edge between clips. Trim to
1/4" (6mm). With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to collar,
leaving notched edges open.
Trim seam and corners.
7
12
5
10
11
13
14 15
16
8
9
6
5. Turn collar; press.
Clip neck edge of garment to stay-stitching.
On OUTSIDE, pin collar (facing side) to neck edge, matching
center back and large dots, placing small dot at shoulder
seam. Baste both collar and facing sections to front neck
edge as far as small dot. Baste only the collar facing section
to remaining neck edge between small dots.
6. Apply INTERFACING to front facing sections.
Machine-stitch 1/2" (1.3cm) from neck edge of facing.
To EDGE FINISH long unnotched edge and shoulder edge of
facing...stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, turn under along
stitching and stitch OR zig-zag over the edge OR overlock/
serge over the edge. Clip neck edge of facing to stitching.
7. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to front and neck edge.
Baste. Clip neck edge through all thicknesses at small dot.
Stitch front and neck edge as basted, being careful not to
catch in free edge of collar. Trim seam and corners; clip
curves.
8. Turn facing to INSIDE, turning back neck seam toward collar;
press. Stitch pressed edge of collar over neck seam.
To keep the facing in place, tack facing to shoulder seam
allowances by hand or with a small piece of fusible web.
SLEEVES C
9. To ease top of sleeve between notches, stitch along seam
line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machinestitch.
Stitch underarm seam. Press up hem.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch close to inner pressed edge.
SLEEVES D
10. To ease top of sleeve between notches, stitch along seam
line and 1/4" (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machinestitch.
Stitch underarm seam.
11. Apply INTERFACING to cuff.
12. With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to cuff, leaving
notched edges open. Trim seam and corners.
13. Turn cuff; press.
Machine-baste raw edges together.
14. Pin RIGHT side of cuff (interfaced side) to WRONG side of
sleeve, matching large dots, clipping cuff to machine-basting
along curves to fit sleeve edge. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4"
(6mm) from first stitching in the seam allowance.
Trim seam close to second stitching.
15. Press cuff out, pressing seam toward cuff.
16. Roll cuff to OUTSIDE over seam. Tack lower edge of cuff to
seam invisibly.

English
3847
17
19
3
1
2
4 / 4
18
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
20
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR BOTH VIEWS
17. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out.
Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole toward you.
With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with
center small dot at shoulder seam, matching underarm
seams and remaining small dots. Pull up ease stitches to fit
To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin threads
until there are no puckers or tucks on the seam line. Baste.
Stitch. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from first stitching. Trim seam
below notches close to stitching. Press only the seam
allowance, shrinking out fullness.
18. Turn facing to OUTSIDE. Stitch across facing 5/8" (1.5cm)
above lower edge. Trim facing close to stitching.
Trim garment to within 5/8" (1.5cm) of inner edge of facing.
19. Turn facing to INSIDE; press.
NARROW HEM lower edge of top starting and ending
stitching between inner edge of facings, as shown.
20. To mark buttonholes in RIGHT front place guide along
finished edge of garment, matching centers, having lower
edges even, as shown.
Transfer buttonhole markings to garment.
Make buttonholes at markings.
Lap RIGHT front over LEFT, matching centers.
Sew buttons under buttonholes.
APRON E
1. Apply PIPING to side and lower edges of one apron section.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch apron sections together,
leaving notched edges open. Trim seam and corners.
2. Turn apron; press. Machine-baste raw edges together.
3. Apply INTERFACING to front band. Press under 1/2” (1.3cm)
on unnotched edge.
With RIGHT sides together, pin band to apron, matching
centers front, placing small dots at ends of piping. Stitch.
Press band out, pressing seam toward band.
3
5
1
6
5
4
7
8
4
6
2
7
HAT BAND FACING
HAT BAND
4. Press under hem allowance on the long edges and end of tie
end sections without small and large dots.
To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease.
Press. Stitch hem in place.
To make point on end of tie end with narrow hem, fold
diagonally so that the hemmed end is even with either the
upper edge or the lower edge and WRONG sides are
together, as shown. Stitch hemmed edges together over
previous hem stitching.
5. GATHER remaining end.
6. With RIGHT sides together, pin ends of tie to band, matching
small and large dots. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste.
With RIGHT sides together, fold band in half, lengthwise.
Stitch ends. Trim seams.
7. Turn ends of front band RIGHT side out; press. On INSIDE,
pin pressed edge of band over seam, placing pins on
OUTSIDE. (Pressed edge of band extends 1/8” (3mm) below
seam.)
On OUTSIDE, stitch in the ditch or seam of band, catching in
pressed edge on INSIDE.
HAT F
1. With RIGHT sides together, pin hat crown sections together,
matching centers and fold lines. Stitch center front and back
seams. Trim seam; clip curves. Press seam to one side.
2. Turn crown to OUTSIDE. Push in crown along fold lines.
Press edges together.
3. Apply INTERFACING to two hat band sections.
4. Apply PIPING to long unnotched edge of band sections.
With RIGHT sides together, stitch facing to band, leaving
notched edges open. Trim seam; clip curves.
5. Turn band RIGHT side out; press. Machine-baste raw edges
together.
6. On OUTSIDE, lap LEFT front over RIGHT, matching centers.
Baste. Lap RIGHT back over LEFT, matching centers. Baste.
7. Pin WRONG side of crown to lower edge of band, matching
centers, as shown. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) from first
stitching in the seam allowance. Trim seam close to second
stitching.
8. Turn band and crown to OUTSIDE over seam; press.