2172 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

English
Cutting
Layouts
®
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
2172
Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
★
✻
1 / 4
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
COAT
USE PIECES 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 11 12
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
CUT ONE OF PIECE 8
CONTRAST
USE PIECES 13 14
12
SINGLE
THICKNESS
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
5
5
8
9
SEL.
12
11
9 12
SEL.
1
7
7
1
6
1
6
11
★
1
12
3
9
24 pieces given
1
2
3
8 9
10
20
22
11
4
21
1-COAT FRONT
2-COAT FRONT INTERFACING
3-COAT UPPER SIDE FRONT
AND POCKET
4-COAT LOWER SIDE FRONT
5-COAT POCKET FACING
6-COAT BACK
7-COAT SIDE BACK
8-LOOP
9-TIE
10-COAT SIDE FRONT LINING
11-SLEEVE
12-SLEEVE FLANGE
5
8
3
SELVAGES
4
✻
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
FOLD
SELVAGES
4
11
FOLD
SELS.
14
12
13
SELS.
13
5
12
15 16
14
23
LINING
USE PIECES 6 7 10 11
44" 45" (115CM)
WITHOUT NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14
44" 45" (115CM)
WITHOUT NAP
SIZES 16 18 20 22
6 7
17 18 19
24
13-SLEEVE RUFFLE
14-NECK RUFFLE
15-BUSTIER FRONT
16-BUSTIER MIDDLE FRONT
17-BUSTIER SIDE FRONT
18-BUSTIER BACK
19-BUSTIER SIDE BACK
20-SKIRT FRONT AND BACK
21-SKIRT BAND
22-SKIRT YOKE FRONT
23-SKIRT YOKE BACK
24-SKIRT WAISTBAND
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 2
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
BUSTIER
USE PIECES 15 16 17 18 19
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16
7
10
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free
1-888-588-2700
The Pattern
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
NOTCHES
DOTS
CUTTING LINE
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-
SIZE PATTERNS.
Web Site
http://www.simplicity.com
General Directions
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
Sewing
• SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
6
7
FOLD
10
Trim corners
SELVAGES
6
11
SELVAGES
✻
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
17
16
11
FOLD
★
SELS.
2
FOLD
SELS.
19
18
17
16
15
SELS.
SELS.
19
18
FOLD
15
Clip inner
curves
Notch outer
curves
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 18 20 22
LINING
USE PIECES 15 16 17 18 19
44" 45" (115CM)
WITHOUT NAP
ALL SIZES
e
E-mail
info@simplicity.com
Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
★ If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 15 16 17 18 19
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
NOTE: DETERMINE FINISHED LENGTH BEFORE CUTTING
SKIRT
USE PIECES 20 21 22 23 24
CUT ONE OF PIECE 24
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SINGLE
THICKNESS
SEL.
21
SEL.
✻
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
24
21
CUTTING LAYOUYS CONTINUE ON PAGE 2
21
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
To Quick Mark:
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• Pin mark dots.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
✻ Mark small
arrows along both
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
SELVAGES
21
21
SELVAGES
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
a.
CROSSWISE FOLD
✁
CROSSWISE
FOLD
b.
18
16
15
15
18
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
19
17
FOLD
SELVAGES
18
16
17
19
15 FOLD
SELS.
17
16
19
SELS.
SELVAGES
20 20 20
23
22
FOLD

English
2172
9
10
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
3
1
STAY-STITCHING
4
6 7
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20
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20
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
2
SELVAGE
20
8
5
22
21 21 21 21
SEL.
FOLD
✻
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
SELVAGES
23
Sewing Directions
FABRIC
KEY
21
SELVAGES
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
COAT
58" 60" (150CM)
WITH NAP
SIZES 20 22
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
NOTE: You have cut out four coat front and sleeve flange
sections. Two sections of each will be referred to as
facings.
1. Stay-stitch inner edge of coat upper side front and pocket and
coat back neck edges 1/2" (1.3cm) from cut edge in direction
of arrows.
This stitching stays in permanently and helps prevent
stretching on curved edges.
Stay-stitching will not be shown in the following illustrations.
2. Apply coat front interfacing to WRONG side of coat front
following manufacturers directions. Machine-stitch inner edge
between small dots 1/2” (1.3cm) from raw edge.
3. With RIGHT sides together, pin coat pocket facing to upper
edge of coat lower side front, matching small and large dots.
Stitch upper and notched edges between small and large
dots, back-stitching at dots to reinforce seam. Trim seam and
corners. Clip seam allowance at inner corner to small dot.
4. Turn pocket facing to INSIDE; press.
5. With RIGHT sides together, pin lower edges of coat upper
side front and pocket and pocket facing together. Stitch
double notched edge.
6. On OUTSIDE, pin lower side front to upper side front,
matching small and large dots. Baste raw edges together.
Turn upper edge of lower side front to OUTSIDE along fold
line, forming flap. Press.
7. With RIGHT sides together, pin coat front to completed coat
side front at side front seams, matching small dots. Stitch,
keeping flap free. Trim seam.
8. Stitch center back seam in coat back.
9. Fold loop in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together.
Stitch a scant 1/4" (6mm) from fold edge, stretching loop
while stitching. With a needle, attach a strong thread to one
end of loop.
10. Draw needle eye forward, through fold, turning loop RIGHT
side out.
24
20
20
22 21
20
SELVAGE
FOLD
11 12
15
SEL.
13
✻
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
21
23
SELVAGES
21
21
21
SELVAGES
18 19
14
16 17
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 22 23 24
20" TO 25" (51CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
SINGLE
THICKNESS
SELVAGE
22 23
SELVAGE
11. Cut twelve loops each 2-1/4" (5.7 cm) long. Fold loop in half,
having ends and inner edges even; pin.
On OUTSIDE, pin loops to side edges of coat back over small
dots, having raw edges even. Baste.
12. With RIGHT sides together, stitch coat back to coat side back
at side back seams.
13. Stitch coat front to coat back at shoulder and side seams.
14. With RIGHT sides together, stitch coat front facing to coat
side front lining at side front seams. Stitch coat back and coat
side back lining sections together same as for back. Stitch
front lining to back lining at shoulder and side seams.
15. With RIGHT sides together, pin facing and lining to coat,
matching centers, seams and having raw edges even. Stitch
front, neck and lower edges, leaving an opening on lower
edge of back between side back seams. Trim seams and
corners; clip curves.
16. To understitch press lining away from coat; press seam
toward lining. Lining side up, stitch close to seam through
lining and seam allowances as far as possible.
17. Turn RIGHT side out, turning lining to INSIDE. Press,
continuing to press under opening edges of coat and lining.
Slip-stitch pressed edges together. Baste armhole edges
together.
18. With RIGHT sides together, stitch sleeve flange and facing
sections together along unnotched edge. Trim seam; clip
curve.
19. Press seam toward facing and UNDERSTITCH facing. Turn
facing to INSIDE; press. Baste raw edges together. To ease
top of flange between notches, stitch along seam line and
1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long machine-stitch.
24

English
2172
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25
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26
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35
31
29
32
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© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
27
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FRENCH SEAM
20. On OUTSIDE, pin flange (facing side up) to armhole edge of
coat with center small dot at shoulder seam, matching
remaining small dots. Pull up ease stitches to fit. To distribute
fullness evenly, slide fabric along bobbin threads until there
are no puckers or tucks on the seam line. Baste.
21. Ease-stitch top of sleeve same as for flange. Stitch underarm
seam of sleeve.
22. Stitch ends of sleeve ruffle in a FRENCH SEAM.
To make French seam, stitch first seam on OUTSIDE, a scant
1/4" (6mm) from seam line; trim close to stitching. Turn to
INSIDE and stitch through seam allowance, encasing first
seam.
23. Press up hem allowance on lower edge of ruffle.
To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease.
Press. Stitch hem in place. To gather upper edge, stitch along
seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a long
machine-stitch.
24. With RIGHT sides together, pin ruffle to lower edge of sleeve,
matching seams. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Baste.
25. Prepare sleeve lining same as for sleeve.
Press under raw edge on top of lining along seam line. With
RIGHT sides together, pin lining to sleeve at lower edge,
matching seams. Stitch. Trim seam.
26. Press seam toward lining and UNDERSTITCH lining.
Turn RIGHT side out, turning lining to INSIDE and ruffle out.
Press.
27. Turn sleeve RIGHT side out. Hold coat WRONG side out with
armhole toward you. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve
to armhole edge with center small dot at shoulder seam,
matching underarm seams and remaining small dots. Pull up
ease stitches to fit To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric
along bobbin threads until there are no puckers or tucks on
the seam line. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/8" (3mm) from first
stitching. Trim seam below notches close to stitching. Press
only the seam allowance, shrinking out fullness.
28. On INSIDE, pin pressed edge of sleeve lining just over sleeve
stitching, placing center small dot at shoulder seam,
matching underarm seams and remaining small dots. Pull up
ease stitches to fit. Slip-stitch pressed under edge over seam.
29. Stitch center back of neck ruffle in a French seam and
narrowly hem outer edges same as for sleeve ruffle. To
gather ruffle, stitch 1/8” (1.3cm) along each side of gathering
line using a long machine-stitch.
30. On OUTSIDE, pin ruffle to neck edge of coat, placing
gathering just over finished edge, matching centers back,
placing small dots at shoulder seams and matching
remaining small dots. Pull up gathering stitches to fit. Pin.
Stitch along gathering line. Remove bastings.
31. Stitch ends of tie together in a 1/4” (6mm) seam.
32. Fold tie in half, lengthwise, with RIGHT sides together. Stitch a
scant 1/4" (6mm) from fold edge, stretching tie while stitching.
With a needle, attach a strong thread to one end of tie.
33. Draw needle eye forward, through fold, turning tie RIGHT
side out.
34. On OUTSIDE, starting at upper back loops, lace tie through
loops. When garment is completed pull ties to fit back and tie
together in a bow. Knot end of each tie.
35. To mark buttonholes in RIGHT front, use coat front interfacing
as a guide, matching centers and placing front and lower
edges along seam lines on pattern piece, as shown.
Transfer buttonhole markings to garment.
Make buttonholes at markings.
Lap RIGHT front over LEFT, matching centers. Sew buttons
under buttonholes.
36
1
4
3
5
2
TIP: A pair of jewelry/craft cutters and pliers are helpful when
working with chain.
36. Slip one end of chain over fastener of pin. On OUTSIDE,
fasten pin to RIGHT side of coat just under end of ruffle. Try
coat on. Pin chain to LEFT end of ruffle, having chain drape
between the second and third buttonhole. Cut off excess
chain and hand-sew link to end of ruffle.
Pin one end of chain underneath last button. Drape chain and
insert end into RIGHT pocket, having 3” (7.5cm) extend into
pocket. Cut chain. Attach a hook to each end. Fasten one
end underneath button and remaining end to a novelty watch
if you prefer.
Open a link on remaining length of chain and attach to chain
on LEFT end of ruffle. Insert remaining end into LEFT pocket.
BUSTIER
1. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of bustier front,
middle front, side front, side back and back sections following
manufacturers directions.
2. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center front seam of front.
Stitch middle front to front. Stitch side front to middle front
Stitch back to side back. Stitch front to back at side seams.
Press all seam allowances open, clipping curve as
necessary.
3. Cut strips of boning each the length of each seam.
To avoid confusion, mark each strip for corresponding seam.
Remove boning from casing.
On INSIDE, center empty casing over corresponding seams,
having upper edges even. Stitch close to long edges of
casing using an adjustable zipper foot.
4. Trim 5/8” (1.3cm) from each end of boning, curving ends, as
shown. Insert boning into corresponding casings. Baste 5/8"
(1.5cm) from upper and lower edges of casings, being careful
not to catch in boning.
5. Stitch bustier lining sections together same as for bustier,
disregarding interfacing and boning directions.
Press under 1” (2.5cm) on back edges of lining; trim to 1/2”
(1.3cm).

English
2172
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10
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6
7
1
4 / 4
9
© Copyright 2011—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
6. With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to bustier, matching
centers front and seams. Back edges of bustier will extend.
Turn under 5/8” (1.5cm) on back edges of bustier to
OUTSIDE over pressed edge of lining, as shown. Stitch
upper and lower edges. Trim seam; clip curves.
7. Turn RIGHT side out, turning lining to INSIDE; press,
continuing to press under 5/8” (1.5cm) on back edges.
8. On INSIDE, pin closed zipper face down over one side of
opening, having zipper teeth just over pressed under edge
and turning under end of tape at upper edge. Baste zipper in
place 3/8” (1cm) from pressed under edge, keeping lining
free.
9. Separate zipper and apply remaining half to opposite side of
opening in same manner. Close zipper and make sure that
upper and lower edges are aligned.
On OUTSIDE, stitch zipper in place as basted, using an
adjustable zipper foot.
10. Slip-stitch pressed under edge of lining to zipper tapes.
Top-stitch close to finished lower edge.
On OUTSIDE, sew buttons to bustier along center front,
spacing evenly or as shown on front of pattern envelope.
SKIRT
NOTE: You have cut out two yoke front and four yoke back
facing sections. One skirt yoke front and two skirt yoke
back sections will be referred to as facings. Determine
finished length before sewing.
1. With RIGHT sides together, stitch two skirt front and back
sections together along notched edges, leaving open above
notch and two edges free. Back-stitch at notch to reinforce
seam. This will be your center back seam.
2. Stitch remaining skirt section to skirt back at side front
seams.
To gather upper edge of skirt between back notches, stitch
along seam line and 1/4” (6mm) INSIDE seam line, using a
long machine-stitch.
3. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt band sections
together. Press seams to one side in the same direction.
Press under hem allowance on lower edge of band. To form
narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease. Press.
Stitch hem in place.
7
11
9
13
14
6
5
4
8
14
10
15
4. To make pleats, on OUTSIDE, fold along solid lines. Bring
folds to broken lines; pin. Press pleat flat along the entire
length. Baste across raw edge.
5. With RIGHT sides together, pin band to lower edge of skirt,
Stitch. Press seam toward skirt, pressing band out.
6. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of skirt yoke front
and skirt yoke back, following manufacturers directions. Stitch
yoke sections together at side seams.
7. With RIGHT sides together, pin yoke to upper edge of skirt,
matching centers and placing seams at small dots. Pull up
gathering stitches to fit; baste.
8. Stitch yoke facing sections together at side seams.
Pin RIGHT side of facing to WRONG side of skirt, matching
centers and placing seams at small dots. Stitch entire seam.
Trim seam.
9. Turn yoke and facing RIGHT side out, encasing seam and
having raw edges even. Baste raw edges together.
10. Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on LEFT back opening edge and
1/2" (1.3cm) on RIGHT back opening edge.
Pin RIGHT back edge to zipper tape, placing pressed edge
close to zipper teeth and tab end of zipper 1" (2.5cm) below
upper edge. Stitch close to pressed edge using an adjustable
zipper foot. Pin LEFT back edge to zipper tape, lapping back
1/8" (3mm) over back. Baste 3/8” (1cm) from pressed edge
and 1/4” (6mm) below end of zipper.
Stitch as basted, using an adjustable zipper foot and
squaring stitches across lower end, as shown.
11. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of waistband. Press
under 5/8" (1.5cm) on long unnotched edge of waistband;
trim to 1/4" (6mm).
12. With RIGHT sides together, pin garment to band, matching
centers, placing side seams at small dots. Baste. Stitch. Trim
seam; press toward band, pressing band out.
13. Fold band with RIGHT sides together. Stitch ends along
seam line. Trim seams and corners.
14. Turn ends RIGHT side out; press.
On INSIDE, slip-stitch pressed edge of band over seam,
continuing along extension.
15. Lap ends of band; fasten with hook and eye.