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NYT-1201: STATE OF THE ART A Thermostat That's Clever, Not ...

NYT-1201: STATE OF THE ART A Thermostat That's Clever, Not ...

NYT-1201: STATE OF THE ART A Thermostat That's Clever, Not ...

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<strong>NYT</strong>-1207: DINING & WINE<br />

With Rude Names, Wine Stops Minding Its Manners ...<br />

By WILLIAM GRIMES<br />

A growing army of budget-priced wines with names l<br />

ike Bitch and Fat Bastard have shoved their way in<br />

to stores.<br />

===== notyet<br />

IT’S peppery and full of fight. The tannins have g<br />

rip. The nose takes no prisoners. This shiraz is a<br />

bitch.<br />

It says so on the label. Royal Bitch is the name o<br />

f the wine, one of a teeming sisterhood of caberne<br />

ts and chardonnays from a variety of producers wit<br />

h labels like Sassy Bitch, Jealous Bitch, Tasty Bi<br />

tch and Sweet Bitch. They’re reinforcements for a<br />

growing army of rude, budget-priced wines that hav<br />

e shoved their way into wine stores and supermarke<br />

ts in the past few years — most recently Happy Bit<br />

ch, a Hudson Valley rose that made its debut last<br />

month.<br />

The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, an a<br />

gency of the Treasury Department, approves about 1<br />

20,000 applications for wine labels every year. Mo<br />

st names are traditional, often genteel, especiall<br />

y at the lower price points. It’s natural for a ch<br />

ardonnay or cabernet priced below $15 or even $10<br />

to buff the image a bit. Woodbridge, Coastal Estat<br />

es and Turning Leaf could be suburban subdivisions.<br />

Then there are the others. Wines like the Ball Bus<br />

ter, a beefy shiraz-cabernet-merlot blend from the<br />

Barossa Valley in Australia. Or BigAss Red, from<br />

Milano Family Winery in California. Or Stench, an<br />

Australian sparkler from R Winery, the company tha<br />

t collaborated with the American importer Dan Phil<br />

ips of the Grateful Palate in 2004 to get the post<br />

feminist ball rolling with a grenache named, simpl<br />

y, Bitch.<br />

Like a slap across the face, Bitch grabbed the att

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