NYT-1201: STATE OF THE ART A Thermostat That's Clever, Not ...

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ottle, was less bracing and mellower. The smokine ss was more of an undercurrent, amplifying its flo ral, honey and meadowlike qualities. We found similar distinctions in comparing two oth er pairs of bottles that made our list. Our No. 2 bottle, the Ardbeg Corryvreckan, was huge and robu st, with layers of complex flavors. Smokiness was only a small part of the majestic picture. Its 10year-old sibling, the No. 4 bottle, was likewise c omplex, but emphasized a briny, smoky, almost ocea nic quality. Our No. 3 bottle, the Lagavulin Distillers Edition 1993, showed the warm, burnished complexity of ag e with a spicy, raisiny fruitcake quality that per haps attests to time spent in barrels previously u sed for sweet sherry. The basic Lagavulin 16 Years , our No. 10, though not appreciably younger, was much less complex, mildly smoky with both savory a nd sweet flavors. I must say that, as a fan of Lag avulin 16 Years, which I remember as so robust it demanded a bit of water for sipping, this example seemed a bit meek. The bottles rounding out our list show the range o f Islay. Bruichladdich, No. 7, was the gentlest, m ost delicate malt, with sweet notes of butterscotc h. Caol Ila, No. 9, was huge and oily in texture, smoky yet fresh, too. In the middle was Bowmore, N o. 8, rich, balanced, moderate, delicious nonethel ess. That leaves the new guy, Kilchoman, which began pr oduction in 2005. Its Spring 2011 Release was one of the youngest in our tasting, if you do the arit hmetic, yet it was superb, fresh and complex with plenty of smoke. Bunnahabhain was the only Islay distillery not on our top-10 list, and although Florence and Flavien loved the 18-year-old (the $97 bottle), it barely
missed the cut. Other bottles worth recommending that did not overcome the stiff competition includ e Bowmore’s 15-Years-Old Darkest, which Flavien an d Pete especially liked, and the Laphroaig Triple Wood, which we all liked. And the mystery malt? It was simply called Smokehe ad, a whisky that, judging by its busy graphics an d aggressive packaging, is being marketed to young single-malt newcomers. It was powerful and smoky, and Pete and I liked it more than Flavien and Flo rence did. “It’s for peat freaks,” Flavien said. Guilty. But I will allow that, while I liked it, I would not classify Smokehead among the more conte mplative malts in the bunch. No, for woolgathering and armchair voyaging, preferably in front of a f ire, I would be most happy with any of our favorit es. I prefer them straight, with maybe a spoonful of water and an equal amount of wonder. As the son g goes, thinking is the best way to travel. Tasting Report BEST VALUE Laphroaig Islay, $45, *** ? 10 Years, 43% Heavily smoked, richly medicinal, savory, subtle, complex and deep. (Laphroaig Import, Deerfield, Il l.) Ardbeg Islay, $80, *** ? Corryvreckan, 57.1% Lightly smoky and sweet with rich citrus, soy and s aline flavors. (Moet Hennessy, New York) Lagavulin Islay, $90, *** ? Distillers Edition 1993 Double Matured, 43% Complex and mellow with flavors of smoke, wax, citr us and fruitcake. (Diageo, Norwalk, Conn.)
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